The Outback Way Travel Journal

Travel Journal www.outbackway.org.au

LEGEND

TA N A M I D E S E R T

G R E AT S A N D Y D E S E R T ART TRAIL POINT OF INTEREST START / FINISH POINTS / APP TOURS

Rabbit Flat

Balgo Community

ATTRACTION /PLACE OF INTEREST

N G ST OC KR

ROADHOUSE / FUEL STOP INTERPRETIVE PANEL

N

NI

GEOCACHE LOCATED NEARBY

E UT O

AD O IR M NA TA

PARKING / REST BAY

CA

ROAD SYSTEMS Sealed Unsealed

Yuendumu

OUTBACK WAY SEALED ROADS / HIGHWAY

GIBSON DESERT

MINOR ROADS / TRACKS

Papunya

STATE BORDER

,

o 26 30’’ Tro pic of Cap rico rn 23

OUTBACK WAY INFORMATION www.outbackway.org.au info@outbackway.org.au

i

WA

NOTE: This map is not intended for navigation purposes. It is recommended travellers purchase The Outback Way Atlas and Guide from wherever Hema Maps are sold. Visit outbackway.org.au for more information

Docker River

REL HWY NBAR GU

14

Y

EA

H

W REL H GUNBAR

TH

16

13

12 11

15

Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)

Warakurna

18

Uluru (Ayers Rock)

9

Warburton Tjukayirla

5

19 20

Mt Ebenezer

SA

Cairns

6

Winton

4

Leinster

Herm

MUSGRAVE RANGES

8

7

NAM AT

Yulara 17

10

ER H WY

RED CENTRE WAY King’s Canyon Curtin Springs

3 2 1

Laverton 0

HWY

Leonora

Perth 50

GOL DF IEL DS

ACCESS THROUGH TO • Golden Outback • The Coral Coast • The North West • The South West

100

150

200

G R E AT V I C T O R I A

Kilometres

NULLARBOR PLAIN

Perth Via Kalgoorlie

OUTBACK WAY TOURS Explore each tour in depth in The Outback Way Atlas and Guide

Laverton

N

LAVERTON

TJUKAYIRLA 303km

Deakin

WARBURTON 470km

DESERT

Hughes

Cook

WARAKURNA/GILES 225km

O’Malley

B

YULARA 325km

POLICE

ROAD REPORTS

PERMITS

Laverton ............................................ 08 9088 2777 Warakurna........................................ 08 8956 7099 Alice Springs ................. 08 8951 8822 / 131 444 Harts Range ..................................... 08 8956 9772 Boulia .................................................. 07 4746 3120 Winton ............................................... 07 4657 1200

WA.......................... 138 138 / 08 9080 1400 NT............................................... 1800 246 199 QLD ............ 07 4746 3188 / 07 4746 3120

WA: Department of Aboriginal Afrairs 1300 651 077 | daa.wa.gov.au NT: Central Land Council 08 8951 6211 | clc.org.au permits@clc.org.au

240km

To Katherine, Darwin

T

Wauchope

W H

Y HW ER V DO SAN

Richmond

T

27

28

Alice Springs

N SIMPSON DESERT

KAN

ACCESS THROUGH TO • Outback Queensland • Central Qld South West Qld • Southern Queensland • North Queensland • Whitsundays • The Great Barrier Reef

QLD

Stonehenge Jundah

Betoota

Windorah

Birdsville SIMPSON DESERT

Lake Yamma Yamma

OODNA DA TT AT RA C Oodnadatta K

STURT STONY DESERT

Cadney Park

ERLDUNDA

To Adelaide

Tarcoola

Roxby Downs

ALICE SPRINGS 203km

Lake Gregory

Lake Blanche

Marree

WY

Lyons

RZE LECK I TR AC K

Lake Eyre South

VIL LE T RA C K

H ART STU

Coober Pedy William Creek

DS

Lake Eyre North

Gina

Innamincka

TIRARI DESERT

BI R

Marla

Lyndhurst Andamooka Lake Torrens

347km

Thargomindah

Hungerford

Lake Callabonna

Copley Leigh Creek

ATIJERE (HARTS RANGE) 222km

Eromanga

STRZELECKI DESERT

ST

Mt Dare Homestead

Barlon

O

U

Bilpa Morea Claypan

Erldunda

A

RO

O

Bedourie

Kulgera

GRAVE GES

GA

M

43

Winton

N

ROAD

22

Middleton

42

H DA

NS TRACK

21

Stuarts Well

BIN

23

36

NT

Hermannsburg

38

37

35

Atitjere (Harts Range)

41

39

I N T O N JUN

24

Boulia

W

Gemtree

29

33 32

Corfield

Cairns Via Hughenden

40

34

TA I

25

NAM ATJIR A DRIVE

Jervois Y NT PLE Y HW 31

30

26

Kynuna

Dajarra

Tobermorey

Aileron

Stamford

McKinlay Urandangi

R UA ST

Ti Tree

urtin prings

Mt nezer

Y

Barrow Creek

Julia Creek

Cloncurry

Mt Isa

ya

9 20

Camooweal

NS BIN CK A TR

u

Barklys HS R’House

Tennant Creek

S

Timber Creek

Tibooburra Wanaaring

Lake Frome

TOBERMOREY

BOULIA 252km

WINTON 358km

VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES ALONG THE OUTBACK WAY Shire of Laverton, WA ................................................................. 08 9031 1202 ...................... greatbeyond@laverton.wa.gov.au................................ laverton.wa.gov.au Shire of Ngaanyatjarraku, WA (at Warburton)..................... 08 8956 7966 ................. reception@ngaanyatjarraku.wa.gov.au............. ngaanyatjarraku.wa.gov.au Alice Springs Town Council, NT .............................................. 1800 645 199 ............................... info@discoverca.com.au......................discovercentralaustralia.com Boulia Shire, QLD ......................................................................... 07 4746 3188 ............................. tourism@boulia.qld.gov.au...........................................boulia.qld.gov.au Winton Shire, QLD ....................................................................... 07 4657 2666 ....................... waltzing@matildacentre.com.au...........................matildacentre.com.au

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CONTENTS TRAVELLING THE OUTBACK WAY........................................... 06 OUTBACK WAY APP + PODCAST............................................... 06 SUPPORT FOR TRAVELLERS Quick QR Code Guide................................................................. 08 Geocache Locations.................................................................... 09 Outback Way Art Trail....................................................................10 Outback Way Outdoor Gallery................................................... 11 Alice Springs.................................................................................... 45 Boulia................................................................................................ 58 Winton.............................................................................................. 64 TIPS FOR TRAVELLERS Leave No Trace Seven Principles...............................................12 Itinerary Options.............................................................................14 Travel Information – ......................................................................16 Distances | Mobile Coverage | Time Changes | Food Accommodation | Fuel | Transit Permits | Dry Communities Travelling with Dogs Trip Planner......................................................................................18 THE OUTBACK WAY Laverton to Tjukayirla Roadhouse............................................. 20 Tjukayirla Roadhouse to Warburton......................................... 26 Warburton to Warakurna............................................................. 30 Warakurna to Yulara...................................................................... 34 Yulara to Erldunda......................................................................... 40 Erldunda to Alice Springs............................................................. 44 Alice Springs to Atitjere (Harts Range)...................................... 48 Atitjere (Harts Range) to Tobermorey....................................... 54 Tobermorey Station to Boulia.................................................... 58 Boulia to Winton............................................................................ 64 ADDITIONAL INFORMATION Travel Games.................................................................................. 70 Spotto – Mark off what you find................................................ 70 Sky Maps – Stars and Constellations......................................... 71 What Bioregion is this?..................................................................72 Interpretive Sites.............................................................................74 History & Acknowledgements...................... Inside Back Cover Quiz Answers..................................................... Inside Back Cover

WWW.O U T B AC K WAY.O RG .AU

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TRAVELLING THE OUTBACK WAY AUSTRALIA’S LONGEST SHORTCUT

www.outbackway.org.au | info@outbackway.org.au YOUR JOURNEY AHEAD

THE LEAVE NO TRACE SEVEN PRINCIPLES

There is no doubt you are embarking on a trip of a lifetime.. one of Australia’s Greatest Road Trips through the Heart of Australia.

Camp only in designated areas

From the Goldfields to Big Sky Country – from Explorers to Mysterious Min Min Lights, with a Dinosaur Trek and Art Trail to follow and Treasure to find – be captivated by ancient landscapes, dig for fossils, sing Waltzing Matilda, fossick for your own dazzling gems, relish the majestic red centre and the iconic places.

Be enlightened by Australia’s heritage and the rich indigenous culture, read the stories the Outback is bursting to tell on the various interpretive sites, immerse yourself in the myriad of extraordinary events, appreciate the wonderful flora and fauna in nature’s playground, celebrate our courageous explorers, connect to famous 4WD tracks and finally, take a moment to really watch the sunset on your final evening – on the Outback Way. This Travel Journal – is your trip momento. Use the planning pages to make your plan, make notes in each section about visits to each place and then make a journal entry about your experience. There is a quiz to answer and spotto to play. Scan the QR codes – they will take you to the latest information on our webpage.

Have a wonderful trip – create great memories.

Leave no Trace – The Outback Way traverses pristine parts of Australia, private properties and community lands.

We subscribe to the Leave no Trace principles and encourage camping in signed camping areas.

Plan ahead and prepare Dispose of waste and toilet paper properly or take it with you – don’t litter Leave what you find Minimise campfire impacts (be careful with fire) Respect wildlife Be considerate of other visitors Carbon Offset – We acknowledge that travelling the Outback Way uses a lot of fuel so we try to encourage our visitors to offset their emissions by contributing to a tree planting project with Carbon Offset Fund, operating in WA. Travelling the 2700km on the Outback Way a vehicle (on average) will produce 1 tonne of CO2e – which can be offset by making a donation. You can do this by going to www.outbackway.org.au/shop.

OUTBACK WAY APP The Outback Way App is available on Apple and Android platforms. The App provides you with images, audio from our podcasts and notifications via GPS of points of interest coming up.

Download Tip – As the App operates via GPS not mobile signal – as points of interest are geofenced – you will see there are 10 ‘tours’/sections… before you head off be sure to download each of the 10 tours in the direction you are heading, so you will receive notifications, otherwise the geofencing and APP won’t work.

APPLE STORE

SUPPORT FOR TRAVELLERS

LOCAL COUNCIL CONTACTS ALONG THE OUTBACK WAY

OUTBACK WAY PODCAST Stories of the people, places, events and development of the Outback Way. Great to listen before you go to get a feel for the journey ahead of you, on Australia’s Longest Shortcut.

Shire of Ngaanyatjarraku, WA (at Warburton) (08) 8956 7966 Alice Springs Town Council, NT (08) 8950 0500

Winton Shire, QLD (07) 4657 2666 VIA PODBEAN

VIA WEBSITE

Follow us on Instagram – share your photos

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Shire of Laverton, WA (08) 9031 1202

Boulia Shire, QLD (07) 4746 3188

Like our Facebook page and keep up to date with road conditions, events and information

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GOOGLE PLAY

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We built a museum to celebrate Australia’s national song

T H E WA LT Z I N G M AT I L DA C E N T R E WINTON, QUEENSLAND

TO BOOK TOURS AND ATTRACTIONS VISIT

matildacentre.com.au | experiencewinton.com.au FO R I N FO R M AT I O N & E N Q U I R I E S : 07 4 6 5 7 1 4 6 6 W W W.O U T B AC K WAY.O RG .AU

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QUICK QR CODE GUIDE

Scan these QR Codes to get the direct links to updated information about the events, places and contact numbers.

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1. LAVERTON TO TJUKAYIRLA ROADHOUSE

7. ALICE SPRINGS TO ATITJERE (HARTS RANGE)

2. TJUKAYIRLA ROADHOUSE TO WARBURTON

8. ATITJERE (HARTS RANGE) TO TOBERMOREY

3. WARBURTON TO WARAKURNA

9. TOBERMOREY TO BOULIA

4. WARAKURNA TO YULARA

10. BOULIA TO WINTON

5. YULARA TO ERLDUNDA

11. NORTHERN TERRITORY PERMIT

6. ERLDUNDA TO ALICE SPRINGS

12. WESTERN AUSTRALIA PERMIT

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GEOCACHE LOCATIONS GEOCACHE CODE GC15KGA

CACHE NAME Dr Laver’s Medicine

GC5Z79T

The Resurrected Falcon

GC150VC

Mulga Breakaway

PLACED BY

STATE

LATITUDE

LONGITUDE

way-finder

WA

S28° 37.534

E122° 24.155

Kyzabra

WA

S28° 28.448

E122° 29.457

way-finder

WA

S28° 16.763

E122° 42.191

GC15QRG

Under the Southern Cross

way-finder

WA

S27° 52.437

E123° 20.507

GC151CQ

White Cross

way-finder

WA

S27° 42.289

E124° 10.577

GC151DB

Tjuka Tucka

way-finder

WA

S27° 09.339

E124° 34.420

GC30A2Z

Come a Gutzer

way-finder

WA

S27° 03.659

E125° 11.117

GC151E4

Find-a-Finch

way-finder

WA

S26° 58.057

E125° 24.750

GC15QRX

Desert Surf’s Up

way-finder

WA

S26° 50.081

E125° 39.322

GC15PJN

Zebra Watch

way-finder

WA

S25° 59.457

E126° 47.784

GC15W2Y

Breakaway Pinnacle

way-finder

WA

S25° 36.514

E127° 13.228

GC15MH0

Lonely Sentinel

way-finder

WA

S25° 16.198

E127° 56.656

GC30A1G

Met Weather Magic 2

way-finder

WA

S25° 02.009

E128° 18.215

GC15NRT

Giles Lookout

way-finder

WA

S25° 03.288

E128° 40.068

GC15PFJ

Perfect Docker Pass

way-finder

NT

S24° 52.106

E129° 03.681

GC15KGM

Lasseter’s Ghost

way-finder

NT

S25° 01.230

E129° 23.742

GC15PHD

Monolith View

way-finder

NT

S25° 18.336

E131° 56.340

GC15VZB

Metamorphosis

way-finder

NT

S25° 11.868

E133° 12.145

GC18G81

ANZAC over Alice

way-finder

NT

S23° 41.658

E133° 52.891

GC18G8N

Hello and Goodbye

way-finder

NT

S23° 39.255

E133° 51.759

GC15W1Y

Tanami Blue

way-finder

NT

S23° 32.152

E133° 51.780

GC1J7G5

High on Highway

way-finder

NT

S23° 31.410

E133° 51.646

GC727DA

499km to Qld Border

The Outback Way

NT

S23° 07.941

E133° 42.013

GC727D9

Bushy Park

The Outback Way

NT

S22° 58.332

E134° 00.412

GC721FC

Gemtree

The Outback Way

NT

S22° 57.916

E134° 14.564

GC722T6

Mud Tank

The Outback Way

NT

S22° 57.536

E134° 18.940

GC2JWYF

Rocky Balboa

way-finder

NT

S23° 00.583

E134° 27.542

GC15MFV

Woomera Coolabah

way-finder

NT

S22° 57.040

E136° 08.595

GC71Z81

Tyred @ Tobermorey

The Outback Way

NT

S22° 17.029

E137° 57.891

GC720ZJ

Border Crossing @ East 138 Degrees

The Outback Way

QLD

S22° 17.429

E138° 00.000

GC720YY

Georgina River Crossing

The Outback Way

QLD

S22° 54.726

E138° 52.373

GC15MBF

Telstra Calling ET

way-finder

QLD

S22° 57.254

E139° 29.767

GC720YF

Boulia - The Outback Way

The Outback Way

QLD

S22° 52.047

E139° 51.444

GC15RCC

Mysterious Encounter

way-finder

QLD

S22° 54.644

E139° 54.741

GC720Y0

Great Artesian Basin

The Outback Way

QLD

S22° 46.354

E140° 35.891

The Outback Way

QLD

S22° 46.014

E140° 52.885

way-finder

QLD

S22° 38.309

E141° 09.919

The Outback Way

QLD

S22° 36.216

E141° 12.866

way-finder

QLD

S22° 21.191

E141° 32.981

GC720XP

The Legend of the Min Min Light

GC15CE4

It’s a Butte, Mate

GC720XJ

Georgina Diamantina Catchment

GC15CDG

Lester’s Hilton

GC15CCV

Wallabies Revenge

way-finder

QLD

S22° 13.074

E142° 12.473

GC71P51

Pelican - Birthplace of Winton

The Outback Way

QLD

S22° 23.406

E143° 01.068

GC71P6X

Winton Railway Station

The Outback Way

QLD

S22° 23.052

E143° 02.257

GC71QHQ

Winton Landing Ground

The Outback Way

QLD

S22° 22.665

E143° 02.491

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OUTBACK WAY ART TRAIL The Outback Way connects the traveller to many forms of art and artisans across the Outback Way. Most communities/ roadhouses have an art centre or gallery. In Alice Springs there are various galleries. Most art centres welcome visitors and it is a unique experience to see the artists at work and to talk to them about their culture.

Tjukayirla Roadhouse – Artwork/crafts with Indigenous painting caves nearby

Curtin Springs Paper is made from native grasses which is made into artisan jewellery and art pieces – join a tour, make some paper and enjoy exclusive access to the art gallery.

Tjulyuru Art Gallery – Warburton (ask at Shire Office) Warakurna Art Gallery – at the roadhouse

Alice Springs – several galleries, enquire at the Visitor Centre. There are various specific exhibitions hosted at Araluen Art Gallery throughout the year.

Docker River Gallery – in the community (call ahead) Uluru – Walkatjarra Art and Maruku Arts Gallery, Cultural Centre, UluruKata Tjuta National Park

THE OUTBACK WAY ART TRAIL PLACES TO STOP

Laverton Art Gallery

Gemtree – jewellery from local gems – find your own and get it set on site.

Outback Way Outdoor Gallery – showcasing 28 artworks on 14 billboards from all communities across the Outback Way – a mix of photos, sculptures and paintings – to create an outdoor gallery with groups of billboards from Engawala through to Atitjere (Harts Range) (90km) on the Plenty Highway. The gallery hosts annual exhibitions.

Atitjere – Community Art Gallery – Harts Range.

Boulia – mural trail Winton – Waltzing Matilda Centre – the gallery has various exhibitions and hosts art prizes throughout the year.

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Ann Britton – Cockies and Moon

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Vanessa Petrick, Noreen Petrick, Andrina Williams, Jacinta Bush – “How our Country changes with the seasons”

'Gemtree Caravan Park'

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OUTDOOR GALLERY

WELCOME TO THE OUTBACK WAY

Gem Tree, then call into Engawala, before you come back to the Plenty Highway and head east towards Atitjere.

The expanse of the Gallery is 111km.

The Outdoor Gallery is an exciting and original concept that takes art out of the traditional gallery space and into the stunning wide red landscape of the Eastern MacDonnell Ranges, traditionally a part of the Eastern Arrernte nation.

artwork prints and originals available for sale. To choose the perfect present or memento for you or your loved ones, you will find a Redbubble button on selected artists’ pages. Click this button to take you to the Outback Way Outdoor Gallery Redbubble store where you can order a t-shirt or scarf with your artwork selection. This will be printed, packed and posted to your address – a great way to remember your adventure on the Plenty Highway section of the Outback Way.

At the Engawala Mobile Hot Spot or when you are back in signal, upload the photo of your favourite artwork and post a comment of your favourite Outback Way Outdoor Gallery artwork and #OutbackWayArt.

You will ‘enter’ the Outdoor Gallery between Gem Tree and just past Atitjere on the Plenty Highway.

There are 13 double sided billboards dotted along the Plenty Highway and in groups, showcasing 26 Artworks.

1 additional billboard is located in the Engawala community displaying 2 local artworks .. while visiting pop into their art centre. In total the Outback Way Outdoor Gallery is comprised of 14 double sided artworks showcasing 28 artworks.

To see updates about the exhibition, go to www.outbackway.org.au/ outdoorgallery and click through to the online catalogue. Or go direct via www. gallery.outbackway.org.au/shop with

The inaugural exhibition is planned to be ready for viewing in 2021.

Billboards 1 and 2 are located around 170km from Alice Springs; just before

Road

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1

PLAN AHEAD AND PREPARE

2

CAMP AND WALK IN DESIGNATED CAMPING/TRACK AREAS

3

4

5

LEAVE NO TRACE

The Leave No Trace Seven Principles

DISPOSE OF WASTE PROPERLY

1. PLAN AHEAD AND PREPARE When you’re poorly prepared, you’re more likely to run into problems. Lack of good research can lead to situations where you can become fatigued or fearful, and you may be forced to make poor choices.

MINIMISE CAMPFIRE IMPACTS

LEAVE WHAT YOU FIND

6

RESPECT WILDLIFE

7

BE CONSIDERATE OF OTHER VISITORS

Planning ahead includes doing research about your destination and packing appropriately.

Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit.

Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies.

Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use.

Visit in small groups when possible.

Consider splitting larger groups into smaller groups.

Repackage food to minimise waste.

CAMPGROUNDS AVAILABLE (EAST TO WEST)

Use a map and compass to eliminate the use of marking paint, rock cairns or flagging.

Winton Caravan parks in town and in Bladensburg National Park

2. CAMP AND WALK IN DESIGNATED CAMPING/TRACK AREAS

www.parks.des.qld.gov.au/parks/ bladensburg/camping Boulia Caravan park on the Burke River Tobermorey Station

If there is no sign permitting camping – don’t camp – it is likely to be private property. No sign – no camping... extensive areas across the Outback Way traverse private property/cattle stations, so if there are no signs for camping you could be trespassing – please be mindful where you camp. We recommend you use designated camping areas/sites/ campgrounds.

Jervois Station Gemtree Alice Springs Erldunda Curtin Springs Yulara Docker River Campground

Concentrate use on existing trails and campsites.

Warakurna Roadhouse Warburton Roadhouse Tjukayirla Roadhouse Laverton Caravan Park

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Walk single file in the middle of the track, even when it’s wet or muddy.

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In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails.

Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.

3. DISPOSE OF WASTE PROPERLY This principle applies to everything from litter to human waste to rinse water.

Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food and litter. Always leave a place cleaner than you found it.

Camp ONLY in structured approved camping areas along the entire Outback Way. NO SIGN – NO CAMPING. Dispose of waste properly – this INCLUDES USED TOILET PAPER. To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.

4. MINIMISE CAMPFIRE IMPACTS While campfires are a timeless camping ritual, they can also be one of the most destructive ones. Far better choices include a lightweight stove for cooking and a candle lantern for light. Stargazing is an excellent alternative and is best enjoyed when your campsite is in total darkness.

Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires.

Camp at least 200m from water source.

Keep fires small. Use only sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand.

Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent.

Burn all wood and coals to ash; put out campfires completely.

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Don’t bring firewood from home, which could introduce new pests and diseases. Buy it from a local source or gather it responsibly where allowed.

5. LEAVE WHAT YOU FIND The adage “take only pictures, leave only footprints” still holds, although leaving fewer footprints is even better.

Preserve the past: Examine, but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artefacts.

Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them.

Avoid introducing or transporting non-native species: Clean boot soles and equipment.

Do not build structures, furniture or dig trenches.

more if you master the zoom lens on your camera and pack along a pair of binoculars.

Observe wildlife from a distance.

Do not follow or approach them.

Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviours and exposes them to predators and other dangers.

Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely.

Control pets at all times, or leave them at home.

Avoid wildlife during sensitive times: mating, nesting, raising young or winter.

7. BE CONSIDERATE OF OTHER VISITORS

6. RESPECT WILDLIFE

“Treat others the way you would like to be treated” is a rule that applies in the outdoors too.

Don’t approach animals. Both you and the wildlife will enjoy encounters

Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience.

Be courteous. Yield to other users on the trail.

Take breaks and camp away from trails and other visitors.

Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises.

Manage your pet.

DESIGNATED CAMPING AREAS – FROM YULARA TO ALICE SPRINGS Curtin Springs Wayside Inn Campground Mt Conner Lookout Kernot Ranges Rest Area Petermann Rest Stop (Curtin Springs East) Salt Creek Rest Area Sandy View (30km east of Ayers Rock Resort)

Book Accommodation, Tours & Attractions!

Your #RedCentreNT Experts

Alice Springs Visitor Information Centre Corner of Todd Mall & Parsons Street Bookings: 1800 645 199 or info@discoverca.com.au www.discovercentralaustralia.com

#RedCentreNT CONNECT WITH US! /VisitCentralAustralia

@visitcentralaus

@visitcentralaus

W W W.O U T B AC K WAY.O RG .AU

13

ITINERARIES 10 DAYS LAVERTON TO WINTON

6 DAYS LAVERTON TO WINTON

WEST TO EAST

WEST TO EAST – WITH UP TO 6 HOURS’ DRIVING PER DAY

Time to spare to look around attractions and places.

TRAVELLING PERTH TO LAVERTON –

Allow an additional 1.5 day’s travel staying overnight at Southern Cross, Coolgardie or Kalgoorlie, Menzies or from Geraldton – Mt Magnet, Leinster, Leonora.

Day 1 Laverton to Warburton (548km)

TRAVELLING TOWNSVILLE/CAIRNS/ QLD COAST TO WINTON –

Day 1 Laverton to Warburton (548km) Gravel & Seal.

Day 2 Warburton to Yulara (550km)

Day 2 Warburton to Warakurna (225km) Gravel

Day 4 Alice Springs to Jervois Station (BYO linen/sleeping bag) (451km)

Allow an additional 1.5 day’s travel staying overnight at Townsville, Charters Towers or Hughenden or from further south on the coast – Emerald/ Longreach.

Day 3 Warakurna to Yulara (325km) Gravel & Seal

Day 5 Jervois Station to Boulia (467km)

Day 3 Yulara to Alice Springs (443km)

Day 6 Boulia to Winton (358km)

Day 4 Yulara to Curtin Springs (82km) Sealed Day 5 Curtin Springs to Erldunda (158km) Sealed (4x4 route only – Turn onto Red Centre Way – Curtin Springs to Alice Springs (550km +) Alternate 4x4 route to Alice Springs via Kings Ck Station, Karrke Indigenous Experience, Kings Canyon, Palm Valley and Gorges). Sealed road from Curtin Springs to Kings Canyon, gravel road through to Palm Valley, sealed to Alice Springs.

Day 6 Erldunda to Alice Springs (203km) Day 7 Alice Springs to Gemtree (135km) Day 8 Gemtree to Jervois (219km) or Tobermorey (434km) Day 9 Jervois (467km) or Tobermorey (252km) to Boulia Day 10 Boulia to Winton (358km) 14

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Boulia’s mysterious Min Min Light

Min Min Encounter Visitor Information Centre

Discover the amazing marine reptile fossil display found locally and housed in the Boulia Heritage Complex

Email tourism@boulia.qld.gov.au or visit boulia.qld.gov.au/min-min-encounter-tourist-centre W W W . O U T B A C K W A Y . O R G . A U @BouliaOutbackQueensland

15

MIDDLETON

BOULIA

TOBERMOREY

JERVOIS

GEMTREE

ALICE SPRINGS

STUARTS WELL

ERLDUNDA

CURTIN SPRINGS

YULARA

DOCKER RIVER

WARAKURNA

WARBURTON

TJUKAYIRLA

LAVERTON

KALGOORLIE

3,889

3,674

3,508

3,316

3,064

2,849

2,717

2,673

2,630

2,495

2,398

2,292

2,134

2,052

1,825

1,727

1,502

1,257

954

596

3,293

3,078

2,912

2,720

2,468

2,253

2,121

2,080

2,034

1,899

1,802

1,696

1,538

1,456

1,229

1,131

906

661

358

303

LAVERTON

3,661

2,935

2,720

2,554

2,362

2,110

1,895

1,763

1,730

1,676

1,541

1,444

1,338

1,180

1,098

871

773

548

TJUKAYIRLA

3,358

2,632

2,417

2,251

2,059

1,807

1,592

1,460

1,424

1,373

1,238

1,141

1,035

877

795

568

470

245

WARBURTON

3,113

2,387

2,172

2,006

1,814

1,562

1,347

1,215

1,179

1,128

993

896

970

632

550

323

225

WARAKURNA

2,888

2,162

1,947

1,781

1,589

1,337

1,122

990

954

903

768

671

565

407

325

98

DOCKER RIVER

2,790

2,064

1,849

1,683

1,491

1,239

1,024

892

860

805

670

573

467

309

227

YULARA

2,563

1,937

1,622

1,456

1,264

1,012

979

665

626

578

443

346

240

82

158

CURTIN SPRINGS

2,481

1,755

1,540

1,374

1,182

930

715

583

541

496

361

264

ERLDUNDA

2,323

1,597

1,382

1,216

1,024

772

557

425

379

338

203

106

97

STUARTS WELL

2,217

1,491

1,276

1,110

918

666

451

319

271

232

ALICE SPRINGS

2,120

1,394

1,179

1,013

821

569

354

222

180

135

42

GEMTREE

1,985

1,259

1,044

878

686

434

219

87

ENGAWALA

1,910

1,320

1,104

935

742

439

221

90

ATITJERE (HARTS RANGE)

1,898

1,172

957

791

599

347

132

215

JERVOIS

1,766

1,040

825

659

467

TOBERMOREY

1,551

825

610

444

252

BOULIA

1,299

573

358

192

MIDDLETON

1,107

381

166

WINTON

941

215

HUGHENDEN

726

TRANSIT PERMITS

Call the Visitor Information Centres at: Laverton.................................(08) 9031 1361

CAIRNS

Yulara.....................................(08) 8957 7324 Alice Springs.......................(08) 8952 5800 Boulia.....................................(07) 4746 3386 Winton................................... (07) 4657 1466

TIPS FOR TRAVELLERS

Call the Caravan Parks/Roadhouses: Tjukayirla Roadhouse........ (08) 9037 1108

Mobile Coverage – available at every community, roadhouse and town across the Outback Way. There are two mobile signal boosters on either end of the Outback Way Outdoor Gallery on the Plenty Highway – to get signal you need to place your phone on the cradle.

Warakurna........................... (08) 8956 7344

Time Changes – please note travelling from West to East:

Gemtree............................... (08) 8956 9855

WA is 1.5hrs behind the Northern Territory and 2hrs behind Queensland.

Tobermorey.........................(07) 4748 3280

Warburton........................... (08) 8956 7656

Warakurna Roadhouse operates on NT time.

NT is 1/2hr behind Queensland.

Eg: 2pm Qld is 12noon WA & 1:30pm NT

ACCOMMODATION/ FUEL & FOOD

16

Docker River........................(08) 8956 7337 Curtin Springs Wayside Inn.........................(08) 8956 2906 Erldunda Roadhouse........(08) 8956 0984 Stuarts Well.........................(08) 8956 0808 Jervois.................................. (08) 8956 6307

As you are traversing Aboriginal Lands, travel permits are required from the Central Land Council – to travel from Uluru to the NT/WA border; and from Ngaanyatjarra Land Council – to travel from the NT/WA border through to Laverton.

Transit permits are issued free of charge and usually within 2 days. Transit permits last for 3 days so only apply when you know the dates you will be in these areas.

Central Land Council – Transit Permit https://forms.clc.org.au/ OnlinePermits/transit.aspx Central Land Council Transit Permit includes Tjukaruru Road (Docker River) (between Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park boundary and WA border). The transit permit allows access to Tjunti (Lasseter’s Cave) for sightseeing during the day.

Camping is only allowed at the Docker River campground.

Ngaanyatjarra Land Council Transit Permit www.ngaanyatjarra.org.au/ sites/default/files/permit_pack_ may_2018.1_0.pdf

Middleton Pub (no fuel)....(07) 4657 3980

DRY COMMUNITIES

FUEL/FOOD

The communities from Yulara through to Laverton are dry communities – no alcohol can be purchased in these communities and travellers are asked not to bring alcohol into the communities or consume it while you are visiting.

The biggest distance to Fuel/Food is 300km from Laverton to Tjukayirla Roadhouse.

Fuel is available across the Outback Way – both Diesel and Opal (unleaded alternative).

From 1 million stars to 5 Stars, there is a bed for you along the Outback Way

Prices are higher due to the isolated locations and cost of freight on gravel roads.

There are motels, hotels, roadhouses and caravan parks – some with free camping… you will be able to find a bed or a place to set up camp every night along the Outback Way – please book ahead.

Food: There are great pub steak sandwiches, burgers to write home about, fine dining at motels or a delicious camp oven you made yourself.

If you are travelling, book ahead to the roadhouses and book your meals.

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ENGAWALA

HUGHENDEN

ATITJERE (HARTS RANGE)

CAIRNS PERTH KALGOORLIE

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TRAVELLING WITH DOGS Dogs – if you are travelling with a dog please ensure you can restrain and tie your dog up, or keep it in your van/tent.

Camping in the fenced areas behind the roadhouses between Laverton and Yulara is recommended. Community dogs can be running free.

J O U RN A L

TheGREAT BEYOND

VISITOR CENTRE FOLLOWING THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE EARLY EXPLORERS

Features of the Great Beyond Visitor Centre: • • • •

Home of the Explorers’ Hall of Fame Best Barista Coffee in the Goldfields An array of maps, guidebooks and brochures Unique collection of history books of the Laverton & Goldfields area • Impressive souvenir & gift shop • Extensive knowledge and information regarding adventure tracks and permits • Gold Rush Tours & Goldfields Express booking agent

THE GREAT BEYOND VISITOR CENTRE Augusta St, Laverton WA 6440 Phone: (08) 9031 1361 Email: greatbeyond@laverton.wa.gov.au Web: www.laverton.wa.gov.au

Contact our friendly staff to get all the information you need to travel the Laverton & Northern Goldfields area!

Open seven days a week, there is always a chance to visit the state of the art displays in the Hall of Fame, browse the extensive collection of books and souvenirs or relax & enjoy a drink and a bite to eat.

TRIP PLANNER LAVERTON TO TJUKAYIRLA ROADHOUSE

FROM.............................................

SEE & DO

STAY & EAT

TJUKAYIRLA ROADHOUSE TO WARBURTON

FROM.............................................

SEE & DO

TO.............................................

STAY & EAT

WARBURTON TO WARAKURNA

FROM.............................................

SEE & DO

TO.............................................

STAY & EAT

WARAKURNA TO YULARA

FROM.............................................

SEE & DO

TO.............................................

STAY & EAT

YULARA TO ERLDUNDA

FROM.............................................

SEE & DO

18

TO.............................................

TO.............................................

STAY & EAT

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ERLDUNDA TO ALICE SPRINGS

FROM.............................................

SEE & DO

STAY & EAT

ALICE SPRINGS TO ATITJERE (HARTS RANGE)

FROM.............................................

SEE & DO

FROM.............................................

SEE & DO

TO.............................................

STAY & EAT

FROM.............................................

SEE & DO

BOULIA TO WINTON

TO.............................................

STAY & EAT

ATITJERE (HARTS RANGE) TO TOBERMOREY

TOBERMOREY TO BOULIA

TO.............................................

TO.............................................

STAY & EAT

FROM.............................................

SEE & DO

TO.............................................

STAY & EAT

W W W.O U T B AC K WAY.O RG .AU

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LAVERTON TO TJUKAYIRLA ROADHOUSE Laverton Hall of Fame – the Great Beyond. Congratulations, you are either ready to begin or end one of the great Australian Roadtrips & outback experiences of your life. The Outback Way adventure begins or ends at this discovery and visitor centre and should not be missed.

Pick up a few maps, brochures and have a cup of excellent coffee.

LAVERTON Just outside Laverton is the junction with the White Cliffs Yamarna Road with access to Coober Pedy and the South Australian border.

Just 13km east of Laverton, the Bandya Road provides access north into station country and eventually to the Gunbarrel Highway. Station stay accommodation is available nearby at Laverton Downs Station, 7km north of the Bandya Road.

21km east of Laverton is a state quarantine station. It is the responsibility of all travellers to follow rules and regulations that help protect food producers. All westbound vehicles must stop.

You are now in the Great Victoria Desert bioregion. The Outback Way 20

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traverses this bioregion from Laverton to approximately 120km west of Warburton.

The landscape is characterised by arid sand ridges of deep sands. The vegetation cover is predominantly hummocky grassland with scattered specimens or clumps of eucalypt species. Generally these are large spreading desert gum trees and mallee

species that grow in clump form, and acacia species, normally mulga. This bioregion is arid but can record both summer and winter rain – or none at all.

Deba Gnamma Hole is located about 38km from Laverton in the Adam Range, just north of the highway. This is one of many waterholes along the Outback Way that provided life-sustaining water to Aborigines, early explorers and wildlife. It is in a rugged laterite rocky landscape – beautiful, but a bit hard on bare feet. Be careful and wear sturdy shoes when exploring this landscape.

The access road to Jindalee Operational Radar Network Transmitter is on the south side of the highway about 50km from Laverton. This radar site is operated by the Commonwealth Department of Defence. While there is no gate, visitors don’t appear to be welcome. The sign says: ‘Unauthorised Entry is Prohibited’.

Believe it!

About half a kilometre to the east of the Jindalee junction, on the south side, is an unmarked spur track that provides access to Jindalee (Giles) Breakaway.

This extraordinary breakaway landscape is stunning, but beware of undercut cliffs and rough jagged rocks near the lookout point. Use extreme caution here – stay well back from the cliff edge.

ERS TIPS d TRAVELL at Beyon s e r G e h t a into n and I w o t I popped r e v a L entre in staff... the ly d n e Visitor C i r f lorers y such greeted b prise was the Exp rers ur rly explo a e greatest s e h t s f me – a r stories o e i e h Hall of Fa t ll e t nd anc of the inla ery and persever ns. , brav ditio hardship d dangerous con an in harsh

W W W.O U T B AC K WAY.O RG .AU

About 52km from Laverton, you will cross a cattle grid – notable only as a point of reference and because it is the first grid westbound and last eastbound for many hundreds of kilometres. Watch for cattle on the road on both sides of the grid!

A shire lay-by is located 55km from Laverton on the south side. There are no facilities but there are a couple of nice shady desert gums. This is a good spot for a travel break, a cuppa and a little look around the Great Victoria Desert.

Claypan Well – an operational mill with trough and tank is located on the south side of road about 61km from Laverton. This is a great place to view local birds such as emus, parrots, finches, honeyeaters, willy wagtails, crows and many species of raptors. You may also see reptiles – snakes, geckos or dragons common to the area. The Lake Wells Road about 5km west of Cosmo Newberry heads north to De La Poer Nature Reserve (94km to turnoff) and Prenti Downs Station (184km).

Two roads, about 7km apart, provide access to the Cosmo Newberry Aboriginal Community. The Cosmo Road is on the west side of the community, while the eastern entry track is unnamed. Visitors are welcome

Clockwise from left: Entrance sign. Laverton Main Street.

Laverton Caravan Park.

21

and a small shop has basic supplies and fuel.

Murrays Bore, mill and tank with waterhole is about 101km from Laverton on the south side of the road. Slow down, stop and have a look for eagles, emus, kangaroos, cattle and species of birds that come to have a drink.

You might see an example of the natural food chain in action here – life and death. Please don’t interfere with the function of the mill, and beware of animals on the highway – both domestic and native.

Beadell Highway, Coober Pedy and the South Australian border. About 34km east of Yarmarna Road is Point Sunday Road that leads to a junction with Anne Beadell Highway, 41km to the south, and then on to South Australia, Coober Pedy and all points south and east.

A shire “oasis” rest area with shady bays for picnics and camping is located about 195km from Laverton and 30km west of White Cross, under shady eucalypts. There are no facilities but the mulga woodland is worth exploring

and the desert gums provide welcome shade from the sun.

Eurothurra Rockhole (Yurratjarra), 400m north of the road, is located about 210km from Laverton and 15km west of White Cross. The junction is not signed (27° 44’ 55”S 124° 03’ 22”E).

A superb breakaway ridge offers great views across a spectacular broad mulga savannah landscape. A rock cairn marks the rockhole, but be aware that the rockhole is not permanent and may be seasonally dry. This very attractive

A shire designated parking bay is located on the south side of the road in a shady grove of trees about 111km from Laverton in the savannah/ mallee landscape. It is a wonderful place to enjoy a short walk into the mulga landscape.

TRAVEL LERS TI PS Tjukayir la Roadh A great ouse – s legs, app top to stretch t he a burgers rently the “Cho o are reno wned ac ka” ross the land .

The Pines is a wonderful place to stop, have a picnic and enjoy the shady grove created by a “forest” of Black Oaks. In fact, the trees are part of the genus, Casuarina and aren’t pines at all. The site is suited to short or overnight stays as it is expansive, flat and has stable gravelly soils. There are no signs on the highway, so keep alert for the tree grove on the south side of the Outback Way about 9km east of the shire parking bay and 30km west of the Yamarna Road junction.

The Yamarna Road provides access to Yamarna Station (now abandoned) and outcamp – 37km and then on to Anne 22

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LOCAL 20TH CENTURY HISTORY OF THE GREAT CENTRAL ROAD The most important historical influence on Ngaanyatjarra people, after the initial shockwaves of the Eastern Goldfields, has been the Warburton mission, which was established in the early 1930s. The mission lasted for 40 years and helped the Ngaanyatjarra people to remain away from the towns.

The mission was extremely remote and never shook off a feeling of precariousness and vulnerability.

In these circumstances the “LA” road was the sole lifeline of the missionaries’ link to “civilisation” and became of critical importance.

In the early years, the missionaries had only the “foot-walking” Aboriginal track joining the sequence of waterholes along which to drive their camel team and dray for the 600km trek to Warburton. Later they obtained a succession of mostly old and heavy trucks which were all they could afford and were not designed for the conditions. In some areas the track crossed dozens of high sand dunes, and elsewhere it passed through lowlying areas subject to flooding. The trip took many days at the best of times, the travellers often became bogged and would have to camp out for weeks waiting for help.

The road was gradually improved, largely due to the efforts of the

Ngaanyatjarra people themselves who would go out in the mission truck and camp for weeks along the route while digging mulga stakes out by hand, building up the low-lying areas, and finding a better alignment for difficult stretches.

By the early 1990s, in the course of works undertaken by the Shire with heavy machinery, much of the original road alignment changed with the result that many of the rockholes are now anything from a few metres to several hundred metres from the highway.

Since 1997, the Outback Highway Development Council Inc which is an alliance of Councils – Shire of Laverton, Shire of Ngaanyatjarrku, Alice Springs Town Council, Boulia Shire and Winton – began the sealing of the Outback Way, for the good of the nation.

Please note that at some times during the year you may see large parties of Ngaanyatjarra people camping at one or other of the rockholes. These will be people who are travelling large distances on ceremonial business. If you see such a group please leave them be and quietly move on your way.

Many of the people involved will be restricted from ordinary social engagement on these occasions.

W W W.O U T B AC K WAY.O RG .AU

Clockwise from top left: Sunset at Windarra Lookout, Laverton.

The Great Central Road. Laverton Art Gallery.

Giles Breakaway.

23

SCAN ME LAVERTON TO TJUKAYIRLA ROADHOUSE

Clockwise from top left: Everlasting flowers. Desert Oak and Range, Great Central Road.

QUIZ

Quest ion: W hat bioreg ion are you in?

Ans wer on

site is known locally as Egg Carton Hill. The mulga woodland has bush camp potential. Of special note are a couple of nice metal “Holden and Ford” sculptures on the way in.

Just 2km east of the Eurothurra Rockhole (Yurratjarra) junction a dirt track leads to an abandoned mine and quarry on the south side of the road.

This large, disturbed area is located in a mulga woodland where camping occurs. While there are no particular attractions, it could provide a welcome shady rest area and a nice place to stretch the legs.

White Cross is one of the more intriguing attractions along the Outback Way, about 80km west of Tjukayirla Roadhouse and 231km east of Laverton. It is located in a splendid small gorge landscape with a rocky uplifted range, caves and seasonal waterhole. Reverend Ron Williams, Geoffrey Stokes and local area Aboriginal christians erected the cross in January 1991. This site is well worth exploring for its historical, geological and ecological interest.

24

TH E

Around 500m east of the White Cross junction, on the south side of the road, is a minor track into a glorious savannah valley behind the ridge that offers an intimate look at a stunning breakaway landscape with extraordinary botanical diversity. The tracks are sandy, narrow and overgrown in sections. This is a good place for amateur botanists and zoologists to explore.

The junction with David Carnegie Road is located about 15km west of Tjukayirla Roadhouse. This road leads to points north including Empress Spring (60km – and worth a visit if time allows for a 2.5 hour return trip). The road is rough and is marked as 4WD only. Empress Spring was named by David Carnegie during his 1896 expedition. His party were dangerously close to running out of water before an Aborigine showed them this water supply down inside a cave. Access is via a chain ladder. There is a visitors’ book inside the cave on a rock shelf.

Just 30 metres east of Tjukayirla Roadhouse you will enjoy some bitumen which was the Royal Flying Doctor Service emergency strip.

OUTB AC K

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Tjukayirla Roadhouse (also known as the Zoo Roadhouse for the rock shaped animals across the road) offers camping, van sites, ablution block, camp kitchen facilities and of course fuel. Opal fuel is provided instead of unleaded and is perfectly okay for your vehicle. You will find Opal fuel at Warburton and Warakurna roadhouses. Tjukayirla Roadhouse is on a dry community, so no alcohol is to be consumed.

The Art Gallery is in the roadhouse and showcases artworks and beadwork from the local Blackstone Community. There are caves to explore with indigenous artwork – ask at the Tjukayirla Roadhouse for access.

The landscape east of the roadhouse is common to the Great Victoria Desert bioregion with rolling plains dominated by spinifex grasses, mulga woodlands, spindly grevillea and the occasional feature tree.

J O U RN A L

TOUR PLAN

Planning the route/accommodation

JOURNAL

What did we see/do/love/experience

W W W.O U T B AC K WAY.O RG .AU

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TJUKAYIRLA ROADHOUSE TO WARBURTON son risk Warning – 1080 poi

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One of the more interesting features in this section of the Outback Way is Camp Paradise (92km from Tjukayirla Roadhouse or 157km from Warburton)

– a ridge-top site on the north side of the road used by road construction crews. This is a fantastic place to stop, rest, have a picnic, look for wildflowers, find bush tucker, camp for the night and explore the delights of a dramatic breakaway with elegant views to the surrounding mulga savannah.

A gnamma hole (26° 58’ 33”S 125° 24’ 45”E) in the laterite slopes on the western flank of the breakaway can be found about 100m from the parking area. Follow the finches, but keep your eyes open for scurrying reptiles – dragons, monitors, skinks and geckos that may be sunning themselves on the rocky terrain. Eagles, falcons and other

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For those interested in exploring offroad, the Wahlgu Rockholes (Walku) located 64km east of Tjukayirla Roadhouse are worth a visit. The holes can be found about 500m from the road, on the south side. Listen and look for the finches. The access track junction is located just below a hill when heading east and just before the rise heading west. This is an excellent site to explore a minor breakaway, birds, waterholes and lateritic terrain.

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Warning to travellers This area is continuously baited with S7 "1080" baits that are lethal to cats and dogs. Muzzle domestic dogs in this area.

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The old Royal Flying Doctor Service airstrip continues east of Tjukayirla Roadhouse, however it is short lived and you continue your journey on gravel.

raptors may be flying overhead looking for a meal.

road degenerates further north so don’t go unless you are well prepared.

Only 1km east of Camp Paradise is a formal shire lay-by on the south side of road, parallel to the highway. The mulga woodland setting offers attractive places for a shady picnic.

Enjoy 50km of bitumen before you arrive at Warburton.

The cluster of signs 11km east of the Hunt Oil Road is the very obvious boundary between Laverton Shire to the west and Ngaanyatjarraku Shire to the east.

Desert Surf Central is a spectacular breakaway, sometimes called a jumpup, on the north side of the road, located about 121km east of Tjukayirla Roadhouse or 128km west of Warburton (26° 50’ 08”S 125° 39’ 22”E). Don’t miss it – stop! The access track is directly opposite Mananytja Rockhole immediately adjacent to the highway on the south side. Look for the ring of white painted rocks.

The Outback Way cuts through a dramatic uplifted ridge about 154km from Tjukayirla and 95km from Warburton. The landscape is particularly impressive on the north side, while a bit lower on the south.

You are now in the Gibson Desert bioregion – this landscape forms the transition between the Great Victoria Desert to the west and the Central Ranges to the east. The region is characterised by distinctive red sand hills and lateritic outcrops separated by dry rolling grassland, grevillea, hakea and mulga plains. The changes in vegetation composition are subtle but the presence of more sand hills and uplifted ridges is quite dramatic.

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Just 2km east of the Desert Surf breakaway is the junction with the Hunt Oil Road, a remnant of an earlier search for oil in this area. This track links the Outback Way to the Gunbarrel Highway, approximately 263km to the north. The

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About 11km east of the ridge cutting, the character of the Gibson Desert is dramatically obvious. Stop and notice the dune ridges with rocky rises, acacia woodland and expansive plains between

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The extraordinary Desert Surf Central site demands exploration. Check out the surf-like caves and cliffs along the base of the ridge, panoramic views from the summit with wildflowers and wildlife – you are likely to see rock wallabies and maybe even a bat. The safest place to climb is the eastern side. The view at both sunrise and sunset is superb. The mulga woodland around the base of the breakaway offers wonderful places to rest or picnic.

Clockwise from top left: Tjukayirla Roadhouse.

Gibson Desert Sunset.

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WARBURTON Warburton is a welcome oasis in the desert. It is home to a large Aboriginal community, the Ngaanyatjarraku Shire offices, a splendid art gallery and well-provisioned roadhouse with a range of facilities, secure camping and accommodation. Please be aware that there is a “no photo” policy around the roadhouse. Warburton is a dry community – so no alcohol is to be consumed.

Tjulyuru Regional Art Gallery

TRAVEL LERS TI The Wa PS r artwork burton Commu col nit collectio lection is the la y rge n in Austr of Indigenous a st Aborigin alia that is held rt b al peopl e thems y elves.

Don’t miss the Tjulyuru Regional Art Gallery, an exhibition and performance centre that aims to be the regional centre of Ngaanyatjarra culture. The permanent collection is impressive and you can buy some artwork from local artists at the Warta Shop.

Ngaanyatjarraku Shire offices

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the sandy hills. Consider a short “nature walk”.

shrub acacias. Camels also thrive in this country.

At 72km from Warburton on the north side is a distinctive woodland landscape on a breakaway ridge landform.

The western link to the Connie Sue Highway, which leads to the south, is located 8km west of the Heather Highway. This junction is not well marked so be alert. The junction with the Heather Highway is located 37km west of Warburton.

Just 3km west of Warburton is the dramatic Elder Creek crossing.

After hundreds of kilometres of arid landscape, this semi-permanent creek with towering river gums is a welcome respite (26° 08’ 45”S 126° 32’ 54”E). Stop and explore the riparian vegetation, aquatic animals and refreshing microclimate. The first mission was located about 700m northwest of the river – a cross marks the site in a nearby grassy area.

The landscape in this area offers expansive views to open grassland, rocky ridges, desert gums, mature mulga groves with wispy grevillea and

The approach to Warburton from the west can be a bit confusing, as there is a proliferation of signs. Stay left for the main highway and roadhouse.

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Planning the route/accommodation

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What did we see/do/love/experience

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WARBURTON TO WARAKURNA After your stay at Warburton you have an easy drive to Warakurna – 225km.

The Warburton Ranges with stony rises, dramatic outcroppings and rolling hilly topography, to the east of Warburton, marks the western boundary of the Central Ranges bioregion and eastern extent of the Gibson Desert. The Central Ranges are characterised by uplifted landforms with savannah plains, acacia woodland and scattered rugged corkwood, bloodwood and desert oaks.

Soil colour is more grey, and less red, than the sandy dune fields of the Gibson Desert bioregion to the west.

By now you would have noticed a few dead cars on the Outback Way landscape – perhaps not a particularly scenic or natural feature, but at times interesting. Kids could count them, adults could determine type and age, and everyone could consider stories about how each of the cars ended up as a roadside sculpture.. Incidentally, many 30

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of the car parts have been scavenged to repair other cars and have perhaps saved lives.

Martin Chambers – Great Central Road Car Wrecks Podcast Season 02 E13.

About 22km east of Warburton is a curious memorial to Tim Ballinger on the south side of the road. You’ll find a picnic table and marker plaque on a rock, and a dead tree in an enclosure.

Why is it here? Who was Tim Ballinger?

Guess it is one of those mysteries of the Outback Way. Just 2.5km east of the Ballinger Memorial, and 7km west of Mummine Well, is one of many tall telecommunications towers that are critical to remote inhabitants along the Outback Way. There is a small parking bay on the north side, at the crest of the ridge hill. This is a great spot

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Mummine Well is located immediately adjacent to the road, about 31km east of Warburton on the south side. This functioning windmill, with tank and pond, is a magnet for wildlife of all sorts – you will probably see some camels and kangaroos. Check out the tracks and scats to discover what has been in for a drink. It’s a great place for bird watching too – flocks of finches, budgerigars, cockatiels, raptors, butcherbirds, honeyeaters, bronzewing pigeons, galahs and lots more. Water is available in the tank but the quality is unknown.

The Yarla Kutjarra rest stop between Warburton and Warakurna has been provided by the Ngaanyatjarra people as a place where visitors can rest and enjoy the peace and tranquillity of the Ngaanyatjarra Lands without disturbing any of the culturally significant places along the Great Central Road. Signage at the site provides information about the area.

SCAN ME Clockwise from top left: Warburton Ranges Sunset. Warakurna Artists share the history of the area. Caravanning in Warburton.

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There are four interesting unnamed gnamma holes with Patjarr spiders (tripod covers) about 80m from the road on the south side, about 95.5km east of Warburton or 134.5km west of Warakurna. The covers are designed to prevent animals from falling into the holes. There are interesting views from some of these holes.

The Jamieson (Mantamaru) Road junction leads south to several communities and the famous Surveyor Generals Corner WA-SA-NT. Escorted tours are available – ask at Warburton Roadhouse or Warakurna Roadhouse.

Tjukurlapini Rockhole site is located on the south side of the road, 60km from Warakurna (25° 17’ 35”S 127° 49’ 01”E). There are four holes, two with Patjarr spiders. Look for birds, dingoes, camels, emus, kangaroos and the usual diversity of reptiles. This is a wonderful site to stop and explore the rockholes.

On the northern side of the road there is an expansive area with stable ironstone soils and mulga/mallee vegetation.

There is always something blooming in the desert landscape – year around. Stop to have a look, because wildflowers are hard to see from the vehicle!

The Rawlinson Range is the dramatic landform to the north.

Warakurna Roadhouse – stay alert and follow the signs as the roadhouse is just off to the north of the Outback Way. The roadhouse is a full service stop with fuel, supplies, shady campsites, laundry, toilet and shower block, powered sites and three modern cabins.

Warakurna Roadhouse operates on Central Standard (NT) Time – 1 ½ hrs ahead of WA time and ½ hr behind Qld time.

A brilliant small gallery and shop in the roadhouse displays the work of local Aboriginal artists. This is definitely worth a visit.

Elder Creek, Warburton

TRAVEL LERS TI We love PS d the ve ry comf units – orta wat being re ching the weat ble motel h leased r eally ma er balloon about h ow sign de us th ificant t hese ser ink are to re vices mote ar eas.

Check the times at the roadhouse for the automated launch of the weather balloon – it is quite novel and so too are the bits and pieces up around the Giles Weather Station.

There are numerous opportunities to explore, picnic or camp in the Schwerin Mural Crescent Range to the northeast and Rawlinson Range to the northwest.

Warakurna Artists Podcast S1 E 14.

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About 29km east of Warakurna you’ll find a post and replica plaque 200m south of the road (25° 10’ 03”S 128° 32’ 23”E). It was originally installed by Len Beadell – the great road builder and explorer. Look for a white post near a grove of desert oaks. This is a good place for a rest and short nature walk.

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As you head out of Warakurna – the Schwerin Mural Crescent Range to the northeast and Rawlinson Range to the northwest. Gorges and waterholes abound, with extraordinary diversity of animals such as rock wallabies and plants unique to the Central Ranges bioregion. The dramatic landscape includes the Petermann Ranges, that are prominent to the southeast and the Schwerin Mural Crescent Range to the northeast. The ranges are typical of the Central Ranges. Look out for camels – they seem to like this area.

The Giles Mulga Park Road, built in 1956 by the Gunbarrel Construction Party, provides access to Jamieson (Mantamaru), Blackstone (Papulankutja) and Wingellina Road to the south. Ask at Warakurna Roadhouse regarding access to this area.

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Warakurna Roadhouse – make sure you don’t leave without a piece of the well renowned artwork from the Warakurna artists – the gallery at the roadhouse is on our Art Trail. Did you see the interesting piece of rocket up near the Giles Weather Station – what else did you see?

Giles Creek crossing is a wide sandy river bed that is worthy of exploration.

There is no roadside signing for Giles Creek from either approach. Just look for the river gums lining the riverbanks, the desert oak forest to the west and the rocky outcropping on the southeast flank. Climb the rocky knob with twin ghost gums on the summit for a great view – imagine being an explorer.

Clockwise from top left: Warakurna to Yulara.

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The landscape is particularly harsh in this area, with patches of herbaceous ground cover, scattered shrubs and low trees. There is a lot of dead vegetation and exposed rocky patches, however, wildflower displays are spectacular after rain. Termite mounds are starting to appear when you are heading east while the spinifex is disappearing. This is still part of the Central Ranges bioregion.

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A rocky hill on the north side of the road, 5km west of the Beadell Tree, offers extraordinary views to Schwerin Mural Crescent and Petermann Ranges.

Look for the twin ghost gums adjacent to the road on the south side. This is a good place to find wildflowers and rocks, explore geology, identify reptiles and appreciate the views.

Keep your eyes peeled for a sign just beyond the rocky hill – Schwerin Mural Crescent was named by Ernest Giles in 1874 for the Princess of Schwerin, Germany. The aged sign is placed parallel to the road and is difficult to see.

The landscape in this part of the Central Ranges bioregion includes common sandy dune ridges and sparse to dense mulga woodlands with grassy savannah plains, but it also includes distinctive low stony rises that are worth exploring.

You will see another tall telecommunications tower on the north side of the road long before you arrive at it. The installation is powered by solar panels and is critical to life in the outback – there are many 36

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communications towers across the Outback Way. A network of fibre optic cables and satellite links are connecting people throughout inland Australia.

At the WA/NT border – you will have 7km of sealed road through to just beyond the Docker River community, Kaltukatjara-Docker River.

Gill Pinnacle is located on the north side of the road (24° 53’ 29”S 128° 46’ 09”E).

Kaltukatjara Campground, set in a majestic desert oak forest, is highly recommended. There are eight defined campsites, a viewing platform, flushing toilets, showers and fire rings. The setting, in a magnificent valley of the Petermann Ranges, is brilliant. The camp is managed by the Aboriginal Nguraatjaku Council and is well presented. You need to gain access to facilities by contacting the Docker River community. Don’t miss the lookout platform on the sand ridge just south of the campsites.

A Len Beadell plaque is embedded in a highly visible ghost gum tree – in fact it is nearly on the roadway. The plaque commemorates the construction of central desert roads and lists crew members’ names, April 1960. Be wary of oncoming vehicles when you are on the road.

Stop at the junction with the Tjukurla Road to the north to fully appreciate the Central Ranges landscape. The high ridges, valleys, outcroppings, ghost gums, grasses and broad mulga plains are truly awesome. It doesn’t get much better than this!

Just 27km north along the road to Tjukurla (up the Sandy Blight Junction Road) you’ll find the Bungabiddy rockhole, at the base of the ranges – a very impressive waterhole!

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Docker River Road leads south to the Docker River (Kaltukatjara) community and a well provisioned store – a handy stop for food and fuel – located in a spectacular valley of the Petermann Ranges. The Kaltukatjara (Docker) River is located in a broad flood plain, with lovely fringing river gums, just east of the Docker River Road junction.

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side of the road. There aren’t many of these in the outback. This one was once slated as a holding yard for the camel industry.

SCAN ME WARAKURNA TO YULARA

The spectacular Petermann Ranges is south of the road. The Chirnside Creek, just past the Puta Puta outstation, visible 400m south of the road, marks the eastern extent of the Petermann Ranges.

This area is the southern extent of the Gibson Desert bioregion: a vast arid area characterised by red sand hills, desert grasses, dominant mulga/ mallee, scrubby iron-rich gravelly rises and a deeply weathered terrain. A number of creeks that drain the land cross the road, including the Puta Puta (Chirnside), the Muwa (Shaw), Irving and Armstrong. Flow is very short-lived and simply disappears into the desert sands or salt lakes. Camels and dogs thrive in

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this harsh country so keep an eye out for them.

Just 500m east of the Armstrong Creek is a well defined access track off the road which leads to an attractive riverside landscape on the north side with some shady trees and sandy rises. Wildflowers are likely to abound following rain. The site appears to be well used for short stays and nature study – watch for camels.

An attractive mulga grove is located immediately on the roadside to the south. It’s about 15km east of Armstrong River if you are heading east or 5km from Hunt Park bush camp if you are heading west. There is a defined road loop into the grove with attractive camping bays and lots of shade. This is an excellent place to stop for a picnic or to enjoy the sandy Gibson Desert landscape.

Hunt Park bush camp (25° 10’ 00”S 130° 24’ 27”E), located just east of the mulga grove bush campsite, is an impressively named grove of mature desert oaks on the north side of the road. The name is boldly painted on a large rock near the road. The site is used by road crews but is also ideal for a short rest or to enjoy the adjacent sandy dunes, desert oaks and wildflowers.

Clockwise from top left: Bruce Munro – Field of Lights Installation, Uluru.

Kata Tjuta.

The Central Ranges bioregion in this area includes stunning mountainous terrain north to Bloods Range and south to the Petermann Ranges; sparse to densely vegetated savannah, islands of mulga, scattered gums and expansive forests of casuarina.

Lasseter’s Cave is a notable feature on the Outback Way. This area is Aboriginal land, so there is no camping, but day visitors can picnic and walk to the famous cave. Remember – leave no trace. Parking is located 60m from the cave and the facilities include a shelter, table and portal sign to the cave. The adjacent Hull River, with its broad flood plain and river gums, is majestic.

Only 2km east of the Hull River is an extraordinarily large and intriguing camel corral and yard on the south

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KATA TJUTA & ULURU NATIONAL PARK About 40km from the national park you will hit bitumen again.

About 10km east of Hunt Park, terrific views of Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) begin to appear as you head eastward. The Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park’s eastbound entry and westbound departure sign requests that visitors do not stop or drive offroad. Views to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) are spectacular and stopping is common, but no formal viewpoints are provided. Arriving at the highway in Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park is a welcome relief if you are heading east because the bitumen begins, and if you are westbound then the adventure begins.

Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) is 36 giant domes with spectacular gorges and valleys hidden amongst them. They are almost 200m taller than Uluru.

The Valley of the Winds walk is a must do.

The Kata Tjuta car park is located 3km off the highway – there is no visitor centre or fee collection.

Well-presented facilities include toilets, walking tracks, a sunrise lookout point, tables, shelters, water, an emergency phone and a magnificent range of walking options.

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This is an excellent place to observe and appreciate the Gibson Desert bioregion. There are sandy rises all with great views to the different facets of the Kata Tjuta hills. There is also diverse vegetation associated with grasses; multiple acacia species including mulga, eucalypt and desert oak trees; and mallee clumps with sparse opening.

Kata Tjuta viewpoint is located 15km east of the junction, towards Yulara. Stop – don’t even think of passing this lookout. A 200m steel path leads to a summit vista point where you will find shelter and interpretation panels. The view to Kata Tjuta is breathtaking and Uluru (Ayers Rock) is also visible – a first for eastbound travellers. The access highway between Kata Tjuta and Uluru is a visual landscape feast, so go slow and enjoy the delights of the changing views to Kata Tjuta and Uluru.

The Kata Tjuta Road joins the Lasseter Highway 10km north of Uluru or 8km south of the township of Yulara: a full service hub – from camping to 5 star accommodation, entertainment, tours, restaurants, cafés, town square, grocery store, travel, souvenirs and galleries.

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Yulara is a fully serviced community, catering to all types of visitors and budgets. All the facilities are well maintained but can get very busy during peak seasons. There is a wide range of built accommodation at Yulara – from budget to luxury – bookings are essential from May to September.

The camping facilities are excellent and reasonably priced.

All the activities at Yulara and Uluru are on our Podcast Season 3 Episode 2 The Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park entry station is located on the highway south of Yulara. Entry fees apply – see www.environment.gov. au/parks/uluru for details.

The Cultural Centre at Uluru is an excellent resource for understanding the region you are in. Visitors can enjoy the excellent displays, information, crafts, shelters, barbecues, tables and access to nature walks.

Enjoy your stay from sunrise to sunset. There is something to explore and experience – immerse yourself.

J O U RN A L

TOUR PLAN

Planning the route/accommodation

JOURNAL

What did we see/do/love/experience

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YULARA TO ERLDUNDA

Lake Amadeus

Further on the Lasseter Highway there is an attractive picnic site on the south side of the road, about 7km east of the Mt Conner lookout and 14km west of the Red Centre Way Junction (Luritja Road). While camping is not permitted,

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Curtin Springs is a 1 million acre operating cattle station and Mt Conner is part of the station. Tours provided – ask at the Wayside Inn.

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Curtin Springs has developed paper making out of the native grasses. From this process they are able to make sculptures, artwork and jewellery – allow time to do the paper making tour and browse the gallery. If you are a walker – book in for a 5 day trek or a full moon walk.

The Finke bioregion – a landscape characterised by sandy dune rises, diverse acacia and eucalypt vegetation with occasional groves of desert oak.

Of special interest are the expansive salt lakes just to the north of the roadside ridge. Walk to the top and enjoy a panorama of mulga plains, salt lakes and of course Mt Conner!

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You can fill up your car, stay the night in either your van, tent or one of their cabins, enjoy delicious meals under the Bough Shed and a drink at the bar.

Podcast S1 Ep 12

A significant difference is the presence of scrubby hungry iron-rich gravelly rises, a deeply weathered terrain in the Gibson Desert and extensive sand plains with dissected uplands, valleys and more desert oak groves in the Finke.

Can you pick the changes?

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Curtin Springs is a “larger than life” roadside stop – the Wayside Inn. The Severin Family served the first tea and scones to the first tourists to “Ayers Rock” Uluru in 1957, thanks to a tour company being formed by Len Tuit.

Between Yulara and Curtin Springs there is a subtle change in the visual appearance of the landscape. This is the transition between the Great Sandy bioregion to the Finke bioregion to the east. Both are hot and arid areas characterised by hummocky grasses, mulga/mallee and low woodlands.

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About 27km east of Yulara you will find a welcome lay-by on the south side of the highway, with a picnic table, shelter, water tank, bins and wood barbecues.

Unfortunately there is no toilet.

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Travelling from Yulara to Curtin Springs – you are on the Lasseter Highway.

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Allow at least a couple of days at Yulara to enjoy the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and all the experiences that are available.

Mt Conner lookout is located 9km past the Mulga Park Road junction, on the south side of Lasseter Highway. There is a water-less toilet, shelter, table and water tank. This is a great place to get out the camera and marvel at the unique landscape.

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there are numerous shady desert oaks suited to picnicking. Facilities include shelters, tables, water and bins.

Clockwise from top left: ‘Curtin Springs’ – paper sculpture made from Curtin Springs paper by artist Amee Dennis.

Curtin Springs Brough Shed.

As this is station country through to Queensland, watch for crossing cattle/ stock. Most of the land either side of the Outback Way (when you are out of communities and towns) through to Queensland is private property. Please respect this as if it was your own backyard.

Soon after, you will come across the The Red Centre Way Junction – Luritja Road that leads north to many parks and reserves, including Kings Canyon. The Red Centre Way is an alternative route to Alice Springs – it is sealed to Kings Creek Station and Kings Canyon. However you will need an off-road or 4x4 vehicle to make it to Alice Springs – via Hermannsburg, Palm Valley (4x4 only) – arriving into Alice Springs on the Larapinta Drive from the west, or duck out further north to Glen Helen and Ormiston Gorge and come into Alice Springs on Namatjira Drive from the west.

QUIZ

is n: What Questio near k” called c o R “ e th prings?

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If you head down the Red Centre Way, there is a large day use area in a desert oak grove located on the south side of the road, 7km east of Luritja Road. Features include a shelter, table, water and shady trees.

Camping is not permitted but you can rest here for up to 24 hours. There are no toilets.

Karrke Indigenous Experience – Podcast-S2 Ep10 Continuing on the Lasseter Highway – as this is station country, please watch for cattle on the road. The range to the north is the Basedow Range.

Try and find: the Deadly Dinner cache – near the former Mt Ebenezer Roadhouse.

From Mt Ebenezer it’s 56km until Erldunda which is a fully serviced roadhouse with van sites, camping, bistro and supplies.

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REST AREAS Short stay and overnight stay rest areas are available in the Northern Territory and are clearly differentiated. Rest bays are well signposted and have an “advance warning” sign, as well as the location of and distance to the next rest area. Rest areas for passenger vehicles are clearly differentiated from truck parking bays and the latter should only be used by passenger vehicles in an emergency. Drivers may not stay at any one rest area for longer than 24 hours. Only camp where permitted.

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TOUR PLAN

Planning the route/accommodation

JOURNAL

What did we see/do/love/experience

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The spectacular Seymore Range and Mt Breaden are the impressive rocky range crossing the highway north of the Palmer River. The highway pass cuts through the range. The moonscapelike landscape with sparse vegetation, rugged peaks and flat-topped ranges are a distinctive part of the Finke bioregion.

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Head south 30 minutes to Kulgera, and then head 186km east, drive into the monument area on your left – www.ga.gov.au/scientific-topics/ national-location-information/ dimensions/centre-of-australia-statesterritories#heading-4.

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It is an excellent rest area with shelter, interpretation, bins and fireplaces.

Overnight camping is allowed for 24 hours. This is a lovely place with desert oak overstorey and a sense of nature.

The Palmer River crossing provides a truck stop only. No travellers’ lay-by.

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While you are in the area we thought we better mention two great locations you may want to check out. If you have a 4WD – you are only 3hrs from the Gravitational Centre of Australia (Lambert).

Desert Oaks day use site is an expansive rest area with shady desert oaks on the west side of the road about 32km north of Erldunda or 75km south of Alice Springs. at W

Erldunda Roadhouse and Desert Oaks Resort is located at the junction between the Stuart and Lasseter highways. This is a full service stop with a campground, motel, restaurant, bar, toilets, fuel and store. It also boasts the world’s largest echidna. There is plenty of information and interpretation, and the staff are friendly, even during the peak periods.

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Overnight camping is allowed for 24hour stays.

The Hugh River Stock Route provides access to Maryvale, Titjikala and Chambers Pillar, as well as a network of tracks into the Simpson Desert. Be well prepared if you intend to explore in this area. The highway crosses the Hugh River about 6km north of the Hugh River Stock Route. The stone memorial 2km north of the Hugh River Stock Route commemorates the death of four men in 1994.

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An ideal base from which to explore the Red Centre is the relaxed and full service centre of Alice Springs. This thriving town has come a long way from its humble beginnings as a telegraph station in 1871.

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The Rainbow Valley Road provides access to the Rainbow Valley Conservation Reserve with its spectacular striated rock forms, stacks and sandstone cliffs – a must for sunset.

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The Mt Polhill rest area is a very small site with a fireplace, shelter and table that is suitable for day use only – there are no areas to camp.

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About 10km north of Stuarts Well, and 4km south of the Rainbow Valley access road, the highway winds through a heavily grazed but most remarkable range of distinctive wooded hills. This is a touch of the MacDonnell Ranges bioregion. There are nice bush camps in the hills on the west side of the road that are accessible by a short spur off the highway.

Owen Springs Reserve Tourist Drive provides access into rugged country and is designated for 4WD vehicles only.

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ERLDUNDA TO ALICE SPRINGS

A number of sign panels in front of the roadhouse provide information on the development of tourism in the Centre.

Check out the old Dodge truck. There are camel rides next door at Noel Fullerton’s “Camels Australia”.

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Stuarts Well Roadhouse, known as Jim’s Place, is a full service oasis providing free camping, powered sites, meals, bar, cabins and some very interesting stories and yarns about the “early days” of tourism in the Centre.

This place is living history and your hosts are the Cotterill family.

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Conservation Reserve and campsite (15km), and an alternative route to Kings Canyon. This special tourist route will be branded as The Red Centre Way.

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WEST MACDONNELL RANGES Extending west of Alice Springs for over 150km, the West MacDonnell Ranges are an abrupt and majestic red ribbon above the spinifex plains. Book tours or take a day trip from Alice Springs.

Get a bird’s-eye view of the area on a helicopter tour of Glen Helen Gorge.

The restored 1930s Glen Helen Homestead is a good stop for fuel or a cold drink too.

Camel Farm

Information Centre in the Todd Mall – www.discovercentralaustralia.com/ contact-us/visitor-information-centres.

There is so much to do – taste the local produce at the Northern Territory’s only winery, take a camel ride or try your luck at Lasseter’s Casino. Listen to a radio lesson on a tour of the Alice Springs School of the Air. To discover the town’s fascinating history take the self-guided heritage walk and visit Adelaide House, which was the region’s only medical centre until 1939. The Old Stuart Town Gaol, built in 1908, is the oldest building in the central town area.

There’s also plenty of local history on display throughout the Alice Springs Cultural Precinct including the Natural History Museum with artefacts and specimens of Central Australia flora and fauna. The Araluen Arts Centre has two important art galleries, including the Albert Namatjira Gallery and significant local and travelling exhibitions are hosted throughout the year. In the grounds there’s the original Araluen Homestead and an old cemetery with many historic graves.

Olive Pink Botanical Gardens are set in amongst the rocky outcrops on the banks for the Todd River. Have a cuppa and wander through the unique central Australian flora. Mega Fauna Central in the Todd Street Mall is a wonderful museum with the mega fauna fossils and specimens found at Alcoota Station – north of Alice Springs on the Plenty Highway.

Royal Flying Doctor Service Base – the centre incorporates the Road Transport Hall of Fame. Wander around the waterhole and restored buildings at the Old Telegraph Station Historical Reserve.

Just ten minutes’ drive from town is the Alice Springs Desert Park where visitors can see rare and endangered animals and explore three strikingly different habitats. Take an easy and pleasant 24km ride through typical woodland scenery from Alice Springs to Simpson’s Gap on the bicycle path. With its pale ghost gums, red cliffs and white river sands, Simpson’s Gap provides a spectacular introduction to the region.

Only the very adventurous should explore the icy waters of the narrow, 500m long Redbank Gorge chasm on an air-mattress.

The Larapinta Trail is a walking track that follows the West MacDonnell Ranges for 223km, from Alice Springs to Mt Sonder, through the West MacDonnell National Park.

Although the trail is well signposted and easy to follow, overnight walkers should register.

There are a multitude of beautiful gorges and waterholes to explore, including Ormiston Gorge, Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Big Hole and Serpentine Gorge. Gain an insight into Aboriginal culture at the Ochre Pits.

EAST MACDONNELL RANGES Rich in pastoral and mining history, the East MacDonnell Ranges have a lot to offer those with time to explore.

A number of good 4WD tracks lead to isolated gorges, like Ruby Gap and N’Dhala Gorge. An open air museum, N’Dhala Gorge contains a large number of Aboriginal rock carvings (petroglyphs). Emily Gap is a registered sacred site where a large rock painting depicts the caterpillar dreaming. A short walk circles Corroboree Rock and provides access to the interesting “window in the rock”. See the towering red walls of the spectacular Trephina Gorge. Take a small detour off the main gorge access road to see Central Australia’s largest ghost gum. Head out to Ross River Resort for lunch or camp the night. www.rossriverresort.com.au At Arltunga Historical Reserve climb down an old mine, browse through the visitor centre’s historical albums and records or try out the old mining equipment in the outdoor display. www.discovercentralaustralia.com/arltunga-historical-reserve

For aviation history, visit the Central Australian Aviation Museum and tour the 46

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J O U RN A L

TOUR PLAN

Planning the route/accommodation

JOURNAL

What did we see/do/love/experience

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47

ALICE SPRINGS TO ATITJERE

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The ranges extend for about 400km both east and west of the town but not very far north or south. The ranges are the spiritual heart of the Dreamtime for the local Arrernte people.

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Alice Springs is nestled in the MacDonnell Ranges bioregion – a landscape of spectacular ridges, rocky outcroppings, dissected valleys and foothills that are clothed in spinifex grasslands, Acacia shrubland and woodlands.

Just north of the Tanami Road junction is an interesting feature – a large cairn with a small plaque on the east side of the highway that marks the highest point between Adelaide and Darwin at 726m above sea level. See for yourself how high that is but don’t expect a mountain range.

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Alice Springs offers a dramatic outback option for the adventurous wanting a short-cut to the Kimberley region of WA. The next town west is Halls Creek – over 1000km away. Be cautious and prepared if you wish to take this diversion.

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Heading out of Alice Springs – so you have replenished your energy and supplies, and explored and experienced this fascinating historical oasis. We hope you have taken advantage of Alice Springs’ full service they expertly offer for travellers and residents alike. You have heaps to look forward to as you continue on your adventure.

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TRAVEL DETAILS Length of trip: 222km – sealed road Estimated travel time: 2.5hrs

FOR MORE INFORMATION:

Road condition: sealed bitumen from Alice Springs to Atitjere (Harts Range) and beyond

Tourism Central Australia P 08 8952 5800 1800 645 199 E: info@discoverca.com.au The Gemtree Caravan Park P 08 8956 9855 www.gemtree.com.au

Tropic of Capricorn marker Central Australia gem fields

Atitjere Community P 08 8956 9787 atitjere@centraldesert.nt.gov.au

Gemtree fossiking tours and nature walks Arltunga Tourist Drive & Binns Track – meet the Plenty Highway Outback Way Outdoor Gallery from Engawala to Atitjere – 28 artworks pop up between Engawala and Atitjere – stop and take a photo, share at the WiFi booster hotspots

QUIZ

How many Question: are of bitumen kilometres hway e Stuart Hig th m o fr re the past Atitjere turn off to ge)?

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Alice Springs and 19km south of the Plenty Highway junction. This tourist drive provides an alternative loop to the Plenty Highway via the Pinnacle Road, 47km to the east and wonderful parks and reserves including Arltunga Historical Reserve and Ruby Gap Nature Reserve. This is an interesting option that will suit visitors with 4WD vehicles who want to get off the bitumen.

You are now in the Burt Plain bioregion – a landscape of red flat sandy plains with mulga and scrubby acacia woodlands and low rocky ranges. Much of the region has been grazed, resulting in some loss of species diversity.

A memorial on the west side of the highway commemorates the first recorded trek from the centre of the continent to the WA coast by Peter Warburton in 1873-74. Peter Warburton is a controversial historical figure.

The junction with the Plenty Highway to the east is clearly marked. There are no formal facilities here but many visitors stop. If you stop please “leave no trace”.

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About 21km east of the Stuart Highway junction you will cross the main Adelaide to Darwin railway line. Plan your trip in sync with the famous Ghan timetable and watch it pass by at this spot four times a week – twice northbound and twice southbound.

The Sandover Highway junction – which connects with the Barkly Highway and other points north – is 5km east of the railway line. There are lots of signs.

This route is undeveloped.

The magnificent range of hills and peaks to the south and east is the Strangways Range, the northern extension of the MacDonnell Range bioregion. The expansive plains on the roadside, characterised by shrubby mulga woodlands, is within the Burt bioregion.

Mueller Creek with a broad sandy basin and lovely shady river gums is a nice place for a picnic and perhaps a nature walk.

140km north of Alice Springs is Gemtree, a full-service visitor facility that provides fuel, camping, powered caravan sites, bush dinners (in season),

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tours, gem sales, gem cutting and a haven for wildlife. Gemtree is located on Gillen Creek, a sandy creek bed with majestic river gums. A great place to stay and play. (Podcast S01 Ep 21) Just 8km east of Gemtree is the junction with the Pinnacle Road heading south. It provides access to an extensive fossicking area in the Mt Johnson range. The main entry point is 7km from the highway. Go through the gate and turn left to fossick or right to camp. A large camping area has some shady trees in the savannah. There is even a toilet – “Sonny’s Dunny”, donated by the Central Australia Gem Club. The site is 2WD accessible with care on sandy tracks. Camping is free.

The Plenty Highway traverses through family pastoral stations so please be cautious as there are usually cattle present and they may be crossing the road. (Podcast S01 Ep24) 14km east of Gemtree you will see a turnoff to Engawala/Alcoota – they have a good art centre and Engawala will be one of the 14 billboards displaying artwork from across the Outback Way

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TRAVEL LERS TI I never PS expecte d Alice S be such pri a much to huge centre – ngs to w s and the ee and do both ith so su in Visitor I rrounds.. we fo town u n helpful, formation Cen nd the tre very th told allo e information w we e of the ti d us to make th were me we h e ad in th most e area.

– the world’s most expansive Outdoor Art Gallery. You can scan the QR code on each billboard to buy a print of your favourite artwork, and share your pictures at the WiFi hotspot at the end of the gallery… there is a WiFi hotspot at the eastern western end of the Gallery along the Plenty Highway.

This project has been developed with

Clockwise from top left: Trephina Gorge. Windmills, tanks and waterholes are often inhabited by a large variety of birds. Alice Springs Parrtjima Festival.

the communities involved to enable and encourage tourism and economic development in this region along the Outback Way. (Podcast S02 Ep20) Alcoota Station is an indigenous station and is the home of the megafauna herbivore – showcased in the Megafauna Central in Alice Springs.

Alcoota is an exceptionally rich fossil

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site located about 150km northeast of Alice Springs, in the centre of Australia.

It preserves the abundant bones of 30 species of animal, including many mega-fauna that were living in the heart of Australia in the late Miocene Epoch, about 8 million years ago when the Australian deserts were just beginning to form.

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RAVEL Myself LERS T and my IPS partner with fa d rove fro mily ov m e r Ballara Christm pleasur t to Alic as for t e of driv e to be wo wee ing up couple k s .

I have h t o Alice of time ad the s and I Springs really e from B We actu njoyed a ll a r ally had at a it. The the cha roads a Alice ar n re grea ce to ge ea seein t. t out an g sites also tak d abou of Jess ing a tr t a ie r o ’s und the ip dow Gap an n to the d Emily Trephin 300-ye Gap an a Gorge ar-old g d , which host gu We do was am m in live in a azing t o see. beautif ul Coun try.

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The fossils are spread over a 200 metre stretch of ground and include the remains of as many as 3000 individual animals that all came to be buried in the same place. Included among these animals was the world’s largest bird, a fearsome crocodile that would be more than a match for the biggest modern salty, marsupial “lions”, marsupial “wolves” and herds of giant browsing wombat relatives – www.magnt.net.au/ alcoota. Head to Megafauna Central in the Todd Mall to see the fossils.

the Stuart Highway and Alice Springs.

There are marked fossicking areas between 3km and 4km from the junction. Fossickers look for garnets, zircons and other semi-precious gemstones. A site suited to a picnic or bush camp is located at the junction.

It has shady trees and a nice mulga woodland setting.

On the Plenty Highway between Cattlewater Pass Track and Mt Riddock Station, there are many roadside trees that are host to parasitic mistletoe. Note the dense clusters in the tree branches.

During good seasons the host and parasite live happily together, but when stressed the host tree dies – and so does the visitor. Mistletoe flowers are brilliantly red and some fruits are edible – favoured by mistletoebirds as well as Aboriginal people.

The Ongeva Creek is a major drainage basin with a sandy bottom and river gums.

The junction with Cattlewater Pass Track (Ambalindum Road) is located 26km east of Pinnacle Road or about 43km from Atitjere. This 4WD bush track provides an alternative route to

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Although there are many station tracks, gates and fences, these are private roads for access and service to pastoral stations along the Outback Way. There is no public access.

The uplifted landscape to the south is Harts Range. These spectacularly dramatic peaks and crests are the northernmost extent of the MacDonnell Range bioregion. Soak up the hills and topographical relief if you are going east as they become increasingly rare!

There is no defined centre of Harts Range but there are many notable features and attractions in the area worth exploring. A dirt track just west of the police station heads south 5.5km to the Harts Range Racetrack, home of the legendary Annual Bush Sports Weekend & Race Day held annually in August where you can join in with such activities as the bareback open, bull ride, lizard race, ute gymkhana, swag rolling or calf scruffing. How about the bush ball where a country dress code applies – blokes must wear a tie!

(Podcast S01 Ep11) The Atitjere Community have a store, fuel and art gallery/centre. Ask at the shop if Spotted Tiger Campground is open for travellers – it is located behind the Harts Range Racetrack.

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TOUR PLAN

Planning the route/accommodation

JOURNAL

What did we see/do/love/experience

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ATITJERA TO TOBERMOREY The sealed road is being extended east of Atitjere (Harts Range) on the Plenty Highway – share on Facebook how far along the seal goes when you travel it. The Harts Range Police Station is the place to get local area information on road conditions, fossicking and camping. However, with only two full-time resident officers, the office is sometimes closed.

Powell are the most eastern extent of the MacDonnell Ranges. To the south, near the Huckitta homestead track, is the distinctive Tent Hill Range.

The Mica road takes you into the Atitjere community, 1.2km to the south, the community is located 2km east of the police station. This friendly community offers a store, fuel and an art centre.

Updated details on the website – scan the QR code on this page.

Take note where a shady grove of eucalypt trees crosses the road – this is a tributary of the Plenty River drainage to the north.

The rangeland is often open scrubby woodland with groves of bloodwood, coolabah and tall acacias, particularly in river beds like the Plenty River, which runs parallel to the highway to the north.

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The landscape in this area is a fascinating conjunction of three bioregions – the Simpson Strzelecki Dunefields to the south and east – the landscape is characterised by an expansive mallee grassy plain with an occasional shrub or tree, and a few ghost gums, alone or in clumps, the Burt Plain to the northwest and the uplifted MacDonnell Ranges to the southwest. The distant hills to the south, Mt Long, Mt Muriel and Mt

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The distinctive Black Hills, known locally as the Sleeping Woman, cross the road about 35km east of the Huckitta road junction or 42km west of Jervois Station.

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Along the 130km between Atitjere (Harts Range) and Jervois Station the landscape is an ever-changing kaleidoscope of colours and textures.

Watch the range disappear as you travel into open plains. Please note that communities and pastoral stations do not all provide visitor services in this area. Jervois offers fuel and light snacks.

Contact Jervois about staying there.

About 14km east of the Huckitta road junction is a splendid ridge system most notable for its rugged rock outcropping.

The view to the north is to the Plenty River valley where you can see the dramatic change from acacia woodland to a riverine eucalypt area. The view to the southwest is to the Mt Long-Mt Powell Range ridge.

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AVELLER I was trav S TIPS elling wit h two othe a road trip r c h icks – we to Alice. W were doin e arrived some din g a bit of at Toberm ner, we w o re y e , set up c re campin a storm c amp, had g in tents ame thro … and the ugh. One tent in th n o o f f course my fellow e low poin campers t or shou tent was had put h ld I say, n inundate er atural dra d. So I ge quite refi in, and so t out of m ned wom h e r y tent to se an starke e this usu other trav rs , m o v a ing her te el buddy lly is asleep nt. Mean one of th in her sw while my e underc ag, rolled over picn out on to ic tables… p of blissfully unaware …

The Marshall River crossing is a broad sandy basin with river gums. There is a defined lay-by on the southeastern bank of the river with a shelter, water tank, table, shade trees, fireplace and bin.

Jervois Station, 1km to the north of the road, provides a wonderful friendly refuge in the pastoral country. Visitor facilities are open from 8am to 6pm, seven days a week April – October (out of season closed Sunday and Public Holidays).

Jervois provides fuel (diesel/unleaded), basic rooms $65/room 2 single beds – shared kitchen and bathroom, camping, toilets and snacks and refreshments. Bring cash as Eftpos is unreliable. The campsite is in a nice shady riverside setting with large ghost gums as features. There are a few interesting artefacts of the Woomera rockets near the shop.

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Jervois was only formed as a station in 1960, being one of the last stations to be taken up in the area. It was bought by the Morley family, who stocked and developed it until they sold it in 1977. Jervois sold again in 1980 and is currently owned by the Broad Family.

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Jervois Station, 350km from Alice Springs and 460km to Boulia northeast of Alice Springs, obtained its name from the Jervois Ranges which run through the property. These ranges were explored by H. V. Barclay in 1878 who named them after a South Australian Governor, Sir William Jervois. Scan the code link to this section to get updated information.

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Tarlton Range is to the south – Tarlton Hill, The Pinnacles and Mt Guide are all clearly visible. The low hills with expansive grassy plains and braided low drainages are common to this bioregion. Stop and look around. Cattle may be seen grazing – a common land use in this landscape.

Algamba Creek crossing is a deep but narrow gully that is relatively minor in the Channel Country context but is a good geographic landmark where few natural features exist.

Tobermorey Station

(heading east) and 10km north of the Plenty Highway. Bonya has a store, groceries and takeaway food – pies/ burgers and prepared meals 10am to 12 noon (someone can open if you come out of hours), fuel – unleaded and diesel.

Access to their workshop gear for a fee – some of the locals have basic skills to assist. More tourism developments and services are being developed. Scan the QR code for details.

The distinctive hill with the pyramidal shape to the north in the Jervois Range is called Unca Hill while Mt Cornish is to the south. There are a few low rocky hills close to the road and an increasing number of small termite mounds as one travels east.

In the middle of “nowhere” is an impressive giant termite mound, immediately on the south side of the road. This extraordinary natural

boarding house is an engineering marvel – with hundreds of thousands of inhabitants and tunnels that regulate the temperature of the colony. Stop for a photo and a look around. Please don’t disturb the mound – lives are at stake.

Arthur Creek is a remarkably wide and expansive drainage with many channels and lots of river gums and bloodwoods.

Deep waterholes provide habitat for mammals, reptiles and flocks of birds – willy wagtail, magpies, kingfishers, sulphur crested cockatoos and many more species. Birdwatchers take note!

Just 4km west of Algamba Creek is a distinctive high point in the landscape with panoramic view potential – watch for the lay-by on the south side. This is a great place for a travel break and to appreciate the majesty of the Channel Country bioregion. The dramatic

About 7km east of Algamba Creek is Mt Guide – about 1km from the road this highly visible and impressive landform rises to 363m. The flat-topped mesa landform with trig point on the eastern end is a distinctive visual landmark.

Between Mt Guide to the west and Marqua Station road there is a windmill, tank and yard on the south side that is a birdwatcher’s paradise! Look for an assortment of favourites – zebra finches, corellas and galahs, even brolgas and an extraordinary number of raptors – forked tailed kites, little eagles, square tailed kites and black falcons but beware of one intimidating bull.

The Channel Country landscape between the Tarlton Range and Tobermorey Station to the east is largely uniform in topography and vegetation cover. The expansive sameness is part of its distinctive character. Small hills and woodlands become notable features in this grassland dominant landscape.

Tobermorey Station is a working cattle station that offers cabins, camping, BBQ/bar facilities and kids playground for travellers. They also provide fuel, tyre repairs and a small shop. The QR Code link provides more details.

BONYA COMMUNITY (ARRAMWELKE) Access is 10km further up from Jervois turnoff (heading east) and 10km north of the Plenty Highway. Bonya has a store, groceries and takeaway food – pies/burgers and prepared meals 10am to 12 noon (someone can open if you come out of hours), fuel – unleaded and diesel. Tourism is developing at Bonya with planned caravan area and dump site, and recovery service for travellers on the Plenty Highway. Access to their workshop gear and there is local basic skills for a fee. KGL Copper and other minerals are developing a tour in conjunction with the Bonya community. The airstrip is developing with the mine.

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Planning the route/accommodation

JOURNAL

What did we see/do/love/experience

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TOBERMOREY STATION TO BOULIA

Now’s your chance to straddle the border between NT and Qld. Enjoy the vast landscape and stars as you travel through ‘big sky’ country – pull up for a picnic on the iconic Georgina River and keep an eye out for the Min Min lights.

After your relaxing stay at Tobermorey Station, get ready to cross the NT/Qld border.

The Queensland and Northern Territory border is a rather nondescript place but you won’t miss it – the proliferation of signs and dramatic change in highway standard are highly visible. The highway changes name here too from the Plenty Highway in the Northern Territory to the Donohue Highway in Queensland, but it’s all the Outback Way. A curious grave marker for Earnest Henry Coleman (Ernie) is located on the south side of the road just 3km 58

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east of the border. “Ernie” passed away in October 15, 1951 and the RIP mark can be found on a minor track across the nearly treeless ridge. There are no markings on the highway but the location is 22° 17’57”S 138° 00’ 36”E. Happy hunting.

Between Tobermorey and Boulia, you are on the southern margin of the Mitchell Grass Downs bioregion. It’s an area characterised by vast expanses of grasslands, low acacia woodlands and undulating topography with occasional stony rises that become focal points.

The Channel Country bioregion, with more sand plains and braided drainages,

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is located to the south. Views in this landscape are generally expansive to the horizon. The acacia species that have adapted to survive in this harsh habitat – mulga, gidgee and ironwoods – are common on the grassy plains. Of the 800 Australian species of acacia, 100 occur in dry inland landscapes.

The pastoral stations in the western section of Queensland, such as Glenormiston and Roxborough Downs, are huge and productive. The grassy downs support cattle as well as native animals such as emus, bustards and kangaroos. You will see windmills, fences and mustering yards that are

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and barren landscape? Never! Have a look for yourself.

The Georgina River is a welcome relief from the surrounding treeless plains and is a good place to relax, picnic or set up a camp on the northeast side.

The river basin has a relatively deep channel at the road crossing but a sandy bed with a wide expanse of shady river gums and bloodwoods appears along the shoreline. The Georgina has a large catchment and frequently floods following storm events. Travellers and locals alike must occasionally wait for the floodwaters to recede – sometimes patiently. Seasonal pools that remain in the river basin attract water birds

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and other wildlife, often from great distances. There is a memorial and commemorative plaque just east of the river crossing.

A well-formed station track located just east of the river crossing heads 2km south to a deep pool in the Georgina River with spectacular paperbark trees and riverine landscape. This is an ecologist’s and birdwatchers’ paradise and a possible bush camp that you might on occasion have to share with cattle.

There are a number of stock route signs along the Outback Way in this area.

These identify designated routes for movement of stock on foot and may also be public roads. Stock routes in Queensland were first dedicated in the 1860s and are still in use today. Every stock route is a road, but not every road is a stock route. Management of the network is shared by the local shires and State Department of Environment and Resource Management.

About 40km east of the Georgina River and 9km west of the Herbert Downs Road, look for a large interpretation sign on the south side of the road. You’ll learn a lot about the road developer Kev Kerr.

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critical infrastructure on the stations. By all means look, but please don’t disturb.

None of the stations in this section provide visitor services or supplies.

Make sure you get out of the car and look around somewhere on the highway between Roxborough Downs and Glenormiston stations. The vast expanse of treeless landscape that extends to the horizon in all directions is characteristic of the Mitchell Grass Downs bioregion – this is natural grassland – it has not been cleared.

Most of the land in the bioregion is currently grazed by cattle but native wildlife have adapted to the open arid grasslands too. Watch for birds such as the bustard and the singing bushlark that find food in the grass tussocks as well as the kites, eagles and falcons who are always searching for prey. Reptiles, from small skinks to large snakes and small mammals, dunnart and the planigale, are well represented in this area, but many are rare or endangered.

Overgrazing, feral pests and introduced weeds have taken their toll. But a bleak

Clockwise from top left: Boulia Min Min Centre.

Burke River.

Inside the Min Min Encounter Visitor Centre.

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The road condition through the channel country can be variable due to seasonal conditions – travel to road conditions.

The junction of Highway 83, called the Diamantina Developmental Road with the Donohue Highway (Outback 60

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Boulia is a town to savour – a welcome cool green oasis in an arid landscape.

This full-service centre provides essential supplies, fuel, tyre repairs but no mechanic, a range of accommodation, camping on the Burke River, and a Sports and Aquatic centre. There’s also Boulia’s Heritage Complex that is home to the best Plesiosaurus Fossil ever. The Heritage Complex has a heritage-listed stone house, still standing and furnished for people to visit and experience life in the early days in such a remote location.

The famous Min Min Encounter – an extraordinary experience – keep an eye out for the Min Min light.

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Tracks into the tower sites provide an opportunity to stop and rest or explore the harsh mulga breakaway landscape.

Keep an eye out for reptiles that like a combined woodland, grassland and rocky habitat, including Gould’s goanna, central netted and Gilbert’s dragons, numerous skinks, geckos and snakes.

Wear shoes.

Two branches of Limestone Creek, which has an expansive flood plain and shady river gums, cross the Diamantina Developmental Highway just north of Boulia. There is no defined rest area.

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Three kilometres west of the Badalia homestead road junction there is a much taller tower, over 100m tall, on the south side. It is part of Telstra’s communication infrastructure and provides outback access to information, electronic commerce, and health and education services.

Way) is 8km north of Boulia. There is no chance that anyone could miss it as there is a proliferation of signs.

Eastbound visitors have the delightful oasis of Boulia to look forward to and westbound travellers have a great treat ahead of them.

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Communication towers are of great importance to residents in the outback.

Just 5km west of the Badalia homestead road junction, on a breakaway range to the south, you will see a small tower 200m off the road. This is a UHF repeater used by the Boulia Shire to maintain contact with health officers, roads crews and residents (using channels 1-4).

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Boulia’s Heritage Complex – home to the best Plesiosaurus Fossil ever. Georgina River.

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their legendary traverse of Australia from south to north.

and explore the legends and mystery of the Min Min light. Cobb and Co. Pillar Number 9 is located in front of the Min Min Encounter Visitor Centre. There are nine plaques between Boulia and Winton – stop and photograph them all.

About 4km east of the Burke River, near the Boulia Golf Club, is the junction with Bedourie Road with links to the famous Birdsville and Strzelecki tracks into the Simpson Desert to the south.

These historic tracks are only for wellprepared adventurers.

A modern concrete bridge crosses the Burke River near where Burke and Wills, the famous explorers, stopped to rest in the shade of the river gums. There is a sign on the eastern side of the river near the caravan park commemorating this as one of their watering points during

The landscape between Boulia and Winton is the heart of the Mitchell Grass Downs bioregion. It’s an area characterised by vast expanses of

SCAN ME TOBERMOREY TO BOULIA

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grasslands, low acacia woodlands and undulating topography with occasional ranges, peaks and mesas that become focal points. Views in this landscape are generally expansive, particularly from the summits of the high points.

This is pastoral country and much of the land is grazed. So be alert for cattle, and also native wildlife, on the road at all times. Scavengers feeding on roadside dead animals, including raptors and reptiles, may be slow to move – slow down to observe and avoid creating further wildlife fatalities.

Along the Outback Way in this section there are numerous junctions with roads to stations. These are private roads and none of the stations provide visitor facilities or services. A barrier fence and grid indicate the boundary between the shires of Boulia to the west and Winton to the east.

J O U RN A L

TOUR PLAN

Planning the route/accommodation

JOURNAL

What did we see/do/love/experience

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camping area. This is a welcome rest point.

BOULIA TO WINTON

The Hamilton River is typical of the Channel County as the highway crosses 4km of river channels meandering

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Remnants of the Hamilton Hotel are features at an attractive rest area provided by the shire on the north side of the road, just west of the Hamilton River. The 7th Cobb and Co. Pillar is located here, along with the George and Gladys Hasted picnic shelter, a large mill and tank, plentiful water and an open

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Driving off-road is not advised at any time in the low country. The land surface may look firm and stable but may be soft and muddy underneath – ideal conditions for bogging vehicles of any type or capability.

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About 26km east of Boulia, near the road to Macsland Station, is the junction with Springvale Road that provides access to Diamantina National Park, 152km to the south via Springvale Station. The park is notable for fishing, canoeing, birdwatching and camping.

The roads are unsealed and often impassable when wet – check with the shire, police or locals before taking this route. www.parks.des.qld.gov.au/parks/ diamantina

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east of the Springvale Road junction and 12km west of Granton Road junction.

The rather nondescript site on the north side of the highway includes a plaque and stone marker but they are easy to miss as there are no obvious relics or other artefacts. There are no approach signs, so be alert.

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The landscape between Boulia and Winton is expansive pastoral country with sheep and cattle grazing. Stations these days are using state-of-the-art facilities, technology and improved land management practices that enable management of the changing seasons and conditions.

The 8th Cobb and Co. Pillar is located at a site called Warenda Bore about 16km 64

Fill your water tanks, enjoy a cuppa, be aware of the breeze, smell the Mitchell grass downs and take a short walk. This is an extraordinary landscape – so take the time to appreciate it.

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across the broad sandy plain. Water persists in channels and deeper holes during and after the wet season. The river is a habitat for an extraordinary diversity of migratory water birds and resident reptiles and mammals. There are excellent bush camping opportunities on both sides during dry conditions but be very wary before rain in the drainage area north and following any rain. The channels can fill up very quickly – even

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with no local rain, this is billabong heaven. (Remember: Leave no Trace).

road. There is a small rock and plaque on the roadside. Be alert or you will miss it.

The site of the famous, or is it ‘infamous’, Min Min Hotel is about 32km east of the Hamilton River and just west of the Lucknow Cobb and Co. plaque.

The site of the hotel is 500m to the north where a sign, grave, bottle dump and a few foundation stumps can be found. The hotel was built in the 1880s and burned to the ground in 1924. This site was where the first reported sighting of the Min Min lights occurred (said to have originated in the cemetery). Be warned, the access track can be soft long after rain and is usually impassable during the wet. There are some good picnic or camping sites along the Pollygammon Creek, just north of the hotel site and accessible during dry conditions.

The expansive grassed plains, with some scrubby vegetation, are characteristic of the eastern sector of the Mitchell Grass Downs bioregion, while a distinctive rocky range crosses the road north to south, 5km east of the shire boundary.

The 6th Cobb and Co. Pillar is located east of the Lucknow Creek crossing and immediately adjacent to the Lucknow Station road on the north side of the 66

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A barrier fence and grid indicate the boundary between the shires of Boulia to the west and Winton to the east.

The 5th Cobb & Co. Pillar was the Mackunda Hotel. It was once located where the Outback Way crosses Mackunda Creek, but now only a few blackened stumps remain.

Next stop – Middleton Pub – a great place to pull up and stretch your legs.. meet a character or two, have a look at the old Cobb & Co coach out the front.

(Podcast S2 Ep3) Seven kilometres east of Middleton you will see a hut off to your right – it is

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the remains of the ‘Goldstone’ film set, filmed at Winton in 2012. Feel free to have a look and climb the adjacent hill to feel ‘on top of the world’.

The most distinctive and stunning landscape between Boulia and Winton is certainly the Lilleyvale Hills – an extraordinary jump-up of uplifted rocky, multi-coloured terrain with buttes, ranges and hills just west of the Old Cork Road junction.

The Cawnpore Lookout, with shelter and picnic table, provides a magnificent point to appreciate the majesty and beauty of this ancient landscape.

Don’t even think of passing by without stopping. Use caution as the parking is very limited and there may be pedestrians. This is a top photo spot: perfect for a short rest and a cuppa.

The Old Cork road to the south provides an alternative route to Winton (257km) via Lark Quarry Conservation Park (153km). Lark Quarry is home to the only fossilised record in the world of

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a dinosaur stampede. The only way to see this remarkable record is on a guided tour in the Dinosaur Trackways complex (fees apply). While you are there take a walk around the centre to see the area’s dramatic jump-up landscape with its elegant gorges, mesas and escarpments.

A visitor lay-by with a toilet, shelter with table, water and stable parking area is provided by the Shire of Winton just 2km east of the Old Cork Road junction. It is a welcome oasis.

The 2nd Cobb and Co. Pillar is located near the road junction to Elderslie to the south and Kynuna to the north. There are no remnants of the staging post

TRAVELLE RS TIPS What a gre at place fo rk dinosaurs at the Austr ids with alian Age of Dinosau r s a n d Lark interactive history at th Quarry, e Waltzing Matilda Ce ntre and a v Water Park ery cool .

here but Mt Booka Booka is a notable landscape feature.

The junction with the Cork Mail Road is clearly marked about 13km east of Wockingham Creek and 32km west of the Landsborough Highway (A2). The Cork Mail Road is an alternative route to Lark Quarry Conservation Park (103km) with a long loop to Winton (207km).

There are often large numbers of eagles in this area – maybe on the roadkill, flying low to the ground or circling in the thermals, anywhere from 30 to more than 50 are often visible. Slow down if you see them on the road to avoid hitting them, as they take time to take off.

The Outback Way’s junction with the Landsborough Highway (A2) is just 5km west of Winton. It is well signed and can’t be missed.

If you are heading east – congratulations ... you have made it across the continent via the Outback Way and Winton will be a very welcome rest stop. If you are heading west you have a great adventure ahead of you!

Clockwise from top left: Winton landscape. Some of the sculptures you will see at the Australian Age of Dinosaurs.

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Check out the Waltzing Matilda Centre for all your tourist information and to immerse yourself in the history of Australia’s unofficial national anthem and the pioneers of Western Queensland.

Cobb & Co – The first Cobb and Co. Pillar is located in Winton – there are nine plaques between Boulia and Winton. www.australiangeographic.com.au/topics/historyculture/2011/10/cobb-co-coaches-historicaltransport The Australian Age of Dinosaurs Museum of Natural History is just 13km along the Landsborough Highway towards Longreach. For a dinosaur experience to remember, enjoy the short film and the short buggy ride down to the Dinosaur Canyon or book well ahead for the dig-a-dino experience. Pop in and have morning tea at the Café – overlooking the expansive view from the jump-up is worth the visit.

WINTON

For updated information about travelling from Boulia to Winton:

Winton is the heart and soul of Matilda Country: an extraordinarily diverse area of awesome events, historic theatres, explorers, artesian water, vast plains, gorges, opals, dinosaur fossils and Arno’s Wall. Not to mention excellent Outback Pubs with either footpath dining or a cool beer-garden and of course excellent food. The water park is a lovely place to have a picnic and cool down. (Podcast S01 EP04)

SCAN ME BOULIA TO WINTON

The town, originally known as Pelican Waterhole, offers a range of accommodation, services and supplies but is best known as the town where ‘Waltzing Matilda’ was written by Banjo Paterson. The Birth of QANTAS was announced on November 16th, 1920 in Winton with the initial registration of the company – Queensland and Northern Territory Aerial Services Ltd. Subsequently, the first Board Meeting was held at the Winton Club on February 10th, 1921.

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TOUR PLAN

Planning the route/accommodation

JOURNAL

What did we see/do/love/experience

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ACTIVITY 3:

SPOTTO

TRAVEL GAMES

GAME 1

The objective of SPOTTO is to tick off as many of the identified items and images as possible from a field of 16.

The challenge is to get four in a row – either up, down or diagonally. The first to spy four in a row is the preliminary winner. The challenge is to get two rows of four, etc.

The overall winner is the first to find all 16.

GAME 2

The objective is to get the greatest number of points within a defined amount of time or between stops. For example, count points every time the item is seen, or if preferred, only count points when an item is first sighted.

ACTIVITY 1:

GOOD OLD EYE-SPY Eye-spy travel games have been Australian favourites for generations.

The outback provides extraordinary images that can thrill and captivate observant travellers.

You decide or set your own rules.

Take turns in saying “Eye Spy with my little Eye, something beginning with… (the letter it starts with)” to see who is the quickest in your car to guess.

For little people (who aren’t spelling yet), sometimes eye spying colours of the object is an easier way to play.

Maybe score so you know who in the car is best at guessing the answers.

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You decide or set your own rules.

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ACTIVITY 2:

WORDS FROM PLACE NAMES GAME

Brolgas

Nearly every town, roadhouse, creek and river along the Outback Way is identified with a name sign.

THE GAME

As you roll past the sign for the town, roadhouse or community you are coming into… re-organise the letters into as many other words as possible within an agreed amount of time.

Road Train

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This can be played as a group or as a competitive challenge between individuals. Be warned, it isn’t as easy as it sounds.

Camels

Example: Boulia Words: lob oil lab bail boil

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ACTIVITY 4:

WHAT PLANET OR CONSTELLATION IS THAT? The Australian outback is one of the best places in the world to explore the galaxy of stars in the southern hemisphere.

The expansive night sky provides an open “canvas” on which stars, constellations and planets move during each day, month and season. To help understand the position of stars in the night sky during your period of travel, consult an Astronomy Almanac or Sky-Guide prior to your outback adventure.

Excellent web references include: www.sydneyobservatory.com.au www.perthobservatory.wa.gov.au You can download free monthly night sky maps from the Sydney Observatory website or www.skymaps.com THE CHALLENGE

See how many commonly seen constellations and other features you can identify in the outback night sky. Here are a few to look for: The Southern Cross – Five stars in The Crux and two pointer stars helped explorers find direct south. It is on the Australian and New Zealand flags and in the southern sky throughout the year.

The Moon – A dramatic satellite of the Earth. Observe the changing shape and movement through your stay in the outback. Called Meeka by the Aboriginal people in South Australia.

Venus – The “morning star” is a neighbour planet that is often the brightest object in the dawn sky.

Shooting Stars – Not actually stars, but rather space junk, rock or dust that burn up upon entering the earth’s atmosphere.

Satellites – Man-made objects of various sizes and orbits are usually visible just after sunset and before sunrise as they reflect sunlight.

The Milky Way – The densest collection of stars is the Milky Way galaxy. Estimates suggest there are about 100,000,000,000 stars – Earth is one of them!

Galaxy – Groups of hundreds of billions of stars can appear as a smudge on the night sky.

Signs of the Zodiac – There are 12 constellations and most are visible at some time during the year in the southern hemisphere. Check your Sky-Guide.

INDIGENOUS ART

The term “country” is often used to explain an Aboriginal person’s place of belonging and a way of believing, since place and belief are part of the same thing. To leave the land is to be deprived of both livelihood and personality.

As an extension of this, artistic forms are a vivid expression of tradition, existence, belief and knowledge of country. For indigenous Australians, art is communication but it goes well beyond communication. Art, songs, dances and stories are culture: a function of spiritual life and an accompaniment to ceremony and ritual. Art is a means for Aboriginal people to carry on stories, to know and learn about family and country and to share this knowledge with non-indigenous people.

Ochre has been used for over 10,000 years by indigenous Australians, and is still in use today, giving lustre and protection to wooden implements, for ceremonial body decoration and for painted designs on objects and surfaces. Body decoration, ground drawing, tool decoration, rock carvings and rock paintings represent physical examples of the earliest forms of Aboriginal art. Today, Aboriginal art can range from a small hand-made basket or wood carving to a valuable painting by an artist with an international reputation.

MEANINGS OF ABORIGINAL ART

There is great regional variety of Aboriginal artistic expression. To the European eye, the art of central Australia presents an abstract style emphasising geometry such as circles, concentric rings, points and linear designs. To the Aboriginal eye it stands in a representational relationship to the landscape.

The art of the desert people is conceptual, with complex meaning that are culturally determined.

By combining the graphics and the meanings a wide range of designs can be generated. Desert art can imply relationships and provide a depth of understanding that language could never do.

The art is representational and it uses a system of a small number of basic graphic elements to stereotype a wide range of phenomena.

TRAVEL

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ACTIVITY 5:

GREAT SANDY DESERT

WHAT BIOREGION IS THIS?

The Outback Way traverses this bioregion from Laverton eastward to approximately 120km west of Warburton. It is characterised by arid active sand-ridge desert of deep sands, overlying strata of the Officer Basin. Tree steppes of eucalyptus species and mulga exist over hummock grassland. This bioregion is arid with summer and winter rain.

Bioregions are large land areas characterised by broad, landscapescale natural features and geophysical patterns that influence the functions of entire ecosystems such as fauna and flora processes. They help scientists understand ecosystems and provide a useful means to understand biodiversity.

The Outback Way crosses ten of Australia’s 85 bioregions and the transition between types is sometimes dramatic and other times very subtle.

THE CHALLENGE

Be aware of each bioregion as you travel through it – note particularly where the visual character of the landscape changes. Refer to the descriptions and photos of the bioregions featured and look for the key characteristics outlined below:

GIBSON DESERT

1. Landform – the shape of the land surface. The key variables are flat plains, rolling hills, breakaway formations, dune ridges, dramatic uplifted ranges and dissected drainage channels.

2. Soil – the surface of the earth. The key variables are colour, composition, texture and depth of sand, rock, stone or combinations.

3. Vegetation – the plant life. The key variables are patterns, density and composition of grassland, woodland and combinations.

4. Climatic zone – The key variables are patterns in rainfall ranging from infrequent to sporadic to dependable seasonal patterns.

CENTRAL RANGES The Outback Way traverses this bioregion from near Giles in WA to a point west of Yulara. A high proportion of the region is characterised by ranges and derived soil plains, interspersed with red sand plains. The sand plains support low open woodlands of either desert oak or mulga over hummock grasslands.

Low open ironwood and corkwood woodlands over tussock and hummock grasses often fringe the ranges. The ranges support mixed wattle scrub or callitris woodlands over hummock and tussock grasslands. This bioregion is arid with summer and winter rain.

From west to east the bioregions along the Outback Way are: Great Sandy Desert, Gibson Desert, Central Ranges, Finke, MacDonnell Ranges, Burt Plain, Simpson Strzelecki Dunefields, Channel Country and Mitchell Grass Downs.

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The Outback Way traverses this bioregion from approximately 120km west of Warburton eastward to Warburton. It is characterised by lateritic uplands on flat-lying sandstones of the Canning Basin.

Mulga parkland on lateritic “buckshot” plains and mixed shrub steppes of acacia, hakea and grevillea on red sand plains and dune fields. The uplands support shrub steppes in the north and mulga scrub in the south. Alluvial areas associated with drainage features support coolibah woodlands over bunch grasses.

This bioregion is arid with mainly summer rainfall.

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FINKE The Outback Way traverses this bioregion from just east of Yulara to Erldunda and then north to just south of Alice Springs and the MacDonnell Ranges.

The region is characterised by arid sand plains, dissected uplands and valleys (formed by volcanic activity) with spinifex hummock grasslands and acacia scrublands on red earth and shallow sands.

MACDONNELL RANGES The Outback Way traverses a narrow section of this bioregion in the vicinity of Alice Springs. This bioregion is characterised by high ranges and foothills covered with spinifex hummock grassland, sparse acacia scrublands and woodlands along water courses.

BURT PLAIN The Outback Way traverses this bioregion from north of the MacDonnell Ranges to the Plenty Highway junction and then eastwards for a short distance. The region is characterised by broad plains and low granite ranges with mulga and other acacia woodlands on red soils.

SIMPSON STRZELECKI DUNEFIELDS The Outback Way traverses a short section of the most northern portion of this bioregion in the area between Jervois Station and the Tarlton Ranges. This region is characterised by arid dunefields with sparce shrubland and spinifex hummock grasslands. While there are large intermittent salt lakes such as Lake Eyre and clay pans thoughout the region, none are prominent along the Outback Way.

CHANNEL COUNTRY The Outback Way traverses this bioregion in the Northern Territory from near the Tarlton Range eastward to a point approximately 50km west of Tobermorey Station. This region is characterised by low hills, forb-fields and Mitchell Grass downs. There are intervening braided river systems with coolibah woodlands, lignum/saltbush shrublands and small areas of sand plain.

MITCHELL GRASS DOWNS The Outback Way traverses this bioregion exclusively from west of Tobermorey Station eastwards to Winton. This bioregion is characterised by undulating shale and limestone downs, grasslands and low acacia woodlands and grey and brown cracking clays.

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OUTBACK WAY INTERPRETIVE SITES WITH AN INFORMATION PANEL

NAME

74

LATITUDE

LONGITUDE

Laverton, Explorers Hall of Fame

28° 37.534S

122° 24.147E

Deba Gnamma Hole

28° 22.117S

122° 35.717E

The Pines

27° 54.957S

123° 10.738E

White Cross

27° 42.242S

124° 10.527E

Tjukayirla Roadhouse

27° 09.336S

124° 34.457E

Kurrajong Sentinel

27° 05.778S

124° 44.213E

Desert Central Breakaway

26° 50.213S

125° 39.618E

Warburton Cultural Centre

26° 08.250S

126° 34.983E

Tjukurlapini Rockhole

25° 18.400S

127° 49.117E

Giles Weather Station

25° 02.098S

128° 18.183E

Beadell Plaque in Tree

24° 54.565S

128° 47.836E

Lasseter’s Cave

25° 01.333S

129° 25.167E

Curtin Springs

25° 18.917S

131° 45.583E

Mt Ebenezer

25° 11.133S

132° 41.467E

Erldunda Roadhouse

25° 11.950S

133° 11.983E

Stuart’s Well

24° 20.717S

133° 27.717E

Alice Springs Visitor Centre

23° 42.969S

133° 52.767E

Gemtree

23° 42.051S

133° 52.869E

Harts Range Police Post

22° 58.675S

134° 55.193E

Jervois Station

23° 42.051S

133° 52.869E

3-Peaks View

22° 34.886S

136° 47.790E

NT / QLD Border

22° 17.346S

137° 59.864E

Georgina River Crossing

22° 54.766S

138° 52.294E

Boulia Min Min Centre

22° 54.983S

139° 54.967E

Hamilton Hotel

22° 46.383S

140° 35.866E

Cawnpore Lookout

22° 38.225S

141° 09.845E

Middleton Hotel

22° 20.970S

141° 33.162E

Woodstock Station

22° 15.648S

141° 56.781E

Diamantina Causeway

22° 13.780S

142° 24.719E

Historic Rail Head Lay-by

22° 19.437S

142° 46.044E

Matilda Centre

22° 23.430S

143° 02.399E

TH E

OUTB AC K

WAY

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T RAV EL

J O U RN A L

HISTORY & ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS THE OUTBACK HIGHWAY DEVELOPMENT COUNCIL INC. THE OUTBACK WAY – AUSTRALIA’S LONGEST SHORTCUT In 1997 the five Shires formed the Outback Highway Development Council (OHDC Inc.) to promote the development of a “third strategic link” across Australia from Laverton WA to Winton QLD. The Outback Way extends for 2700km through central Australia across Western Australia, Northern Territory and Queensland. The Outback Way has been enabled and developed by the big picture, can do attitude demonstrated by the representatives from the alliance of five local governments whose boundaries traverse the thousands of square kilometres the Outback Way passes through – Shire of Laverton, Shire of Ngaanyatjarraku, Alice Springs Town Council, Boulia Shire and Winton Shire.

The Outback Way Project was initiated by Mr Patrick Hill – Laverton, who has been the driving force behind this national project for over two decades, supported by Helen Lewis GM of the OHDC Inc Secretariat.

The 2700km journey is made up of seven different roads, from Laverton – The Great Central Road (WA); Tjukururu Road, Lasseter Highway, Stuart Highway and Plenty Highway (NT), the Donohue Highway (Qld) and the Kennedy Development Road into Winton, Qld. The aim was to establish the Outback Way as a transcontinental route, opening up central Australia, bringing social, economic and cultural benefits and effectively linking Australia’s southwest to northeast. It soon became known as Australia’s Longest Shortcut, A journey through the Heart of Australia and The Great Australian Road Trip.

The Outback Way is being sealed from a joint commitment from Local, State and Federal governments to seal the Outback Way which will advance Australia’s national development.

WWW.OUTBACKWAY.ORG.AU

QUIZ ANSWERS

INSTAGRAM COMPETITION WINNERS

P24 – GVD Great Victoria Desert P27 – Post what you find on our FB page (various animals – in the eye of the beholder) P31 – 1953-1955 P35 – Bum print in the sand P42 – Mt Conner P49 – Whatever you measure, as more and more seal is being done

1ST PRIZE NATASHA FROM DESERT DREAMING PHOTOGRAPHY

2ND PRIZE GOSSES BLUFF CRATER – JACK MARR

P56 – Big Tyre at Entrance P59 – Plesiosaurus P62 – Nine P65 – In 1876 Robert Allen, who was the Postmaster, changed the settlement’s name from Wallace Camp to Winton.

It was easier to write on the postage stamps. Winton is named after a suburb in Bournemouth, England, in which Allen was born.

3RD PRIZE

4TH PRIZE

SMOKEY OUTBACK – JASON SCURRY

DEATH ADDER – CRAIG WILLIAMS

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www.outbackway.org.au