VINTORIAN PUBLICATIONS | VOLUME 1 | WWW.VINTORIAN.COM
Volume 1
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EDITOR’S NO TE First off, I want to welcome my fellow “Vintorians” to the first issue of Vintorian Publications A Vintage and Victorian Lifestyle Magazine. I hope you love this issue as much as we did putting it together and I hope you enjoy the journey to make this magazine all about us. We welcome your thoughts and suggestions as we grow together. We hope you are as excited to see the next issue, as we are when we receive the final copy from our design team. Vintorian Publications is an international magazine for all lovers of vintage and the Victorian era (and in between). We have searched far and wide to bring you interviews and articles from fabulous “Vintorians” on a variety of topics. We have narrowed down some articles to appear in each issue such as: searching for lost careers in census records, a day in the life of a reenactor and keeping up with our manners. The idea of this magazine came from my love of writing, history and visiting living museums. I’ve learned so much from these adventures and from reenactors that it made sense to start this project. Once I made that decision and started contacting people for interviews, it snowballed into this first edition. While we haven’t perfected our “formula” just yet, the overall feel of this edition is just the start of what we wish to accomplish. We hope you are entertained, educated and want more! For the overall look of the magazine we wanted it to look very much like magazines did in the late 1900’s to 1920’s. The articles are all about content, and lots of it! You won’t flip through this magazine and shortly be at the end. I want to thank my dear husband, my family, friends, our interviewees, our writers, proof readers and design team. Your brilliance made this all come together. Thank you for sharing the dream. We always love to hear from our readers, so please let us know how we are doing and what you want to see in Vintorian Publications. Grab some tea, sit back and relax while you enjoy this edition. Tanya Dawson Credits: Design team – Mirko Della Monica @ VintageGraphicDesign.com / Proofreading – Aemelia Manier @ NovelNeeds.com / Cover Illustration - Elena Mikhaylova
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Advertise With Us Vintorian Publications is a niche market magazine and offers an opportunity for you to streamline your sales to your ideal customers. Our market entails worldwide lovers of all things vintage and Victorian. We have five tiers of advertising rates to ensure we have options for any budget, and have set special rates for our fi st and second issue. Our second issue will be out before Christmas, so ensure you book your spot for the holiday shopping season. Tier One - Full Page $250 Tier Two - 1/2 Page $150 Tier Th ee - 1/3 Page $100 Tier Four - 1/4 Page $75 Tier Five - Old-Fashioned Ad (Title, 100 words, no Picture) $20 * We only accept files that are at least 300 DPI. * If you do not have an ad, or wish to have an ad prepared, we can provide a quote from our graphic design team. * Ads must be Vintage or Victorian in design to match the mandate of the magazine. * We reserve the right to mark an ad as an advertisement, if the ad appears to be an editorial.
Contact advertise@vintorian.com www.vintorian.com www.facebook.com/vintorian
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B illie Burke Zieg feld
The Public And Private Lives Of Billie Burke a few serious dramas where her fashion sense and her gift for repartee united in something which, behind the footlights, gave a sense that she was some being almost unreal, almost floating over a troubled world. That Billie later became a by-word for the ditzy silverscreen matron, the lady of a certain age who says or does the wrong thing and giggles, was all I knew of her other than her role as Glinda, and it puzzled me, seeing the serenity and beauty of Grant Hayter-Menzies (photo credit: Bryan Melvin)
this one part in a Technicolor fantasy alongside all these parts in which she
What started you on your quest to write a bi-
good fairies, but that she had always
was, to be frank, a silly clown. I want-
ography of Billie Burke Ziegfeld?
played roles of elegance and refine-
ed to know more about her, and as the
I was always fascinated by the character of
best way I have learned about some-
Glinda the Good Witch. While in my child-
thing or somebody is to write a book
hood, this was as much because of Billie
about them, that’s what I decided Many of us identify Burke’s magical costume and crown the “Ziegfeld” name to do. with Broadway, but what about the famand the pink bubble she transported ily behind the name? We spoke with author herself in as it was anything to do Billie’s early life seems Grant Hayter-Menzies about his book “Mrs. with her performance, I now see to have built her charZiegfeld – The Public and Private Lives of Billie much to admire in just what acter, with touring Burke” to get a glimpse at the matriarch of this famous she did with her total of twelve with her father Wilfamily. Billie Burke was married to Florenz Ziegfeld, Jr. and is probably best known today for her performance minutes of screen time. Billie lam Burke, who was as Glinda the Good Witch in The Wizard of Oz, herself pointed out that the role a professional clown, but in her younger years she commanded some of of Glinda in “The Wizard of Oz” coupled with a mother the highest salaries in the motion pictures for her was really not such an unusual who very much wanted performances. Grant’s book is available to moment in her long career, simply her to be an actress. How purchase at because it was a role so similar to those do you think this shaped www.mcfarlandbooks.com she had played on the stage when she was
Billie? and how do you think it
a young Broadway beauty, the toast of the pre-
harmed her?
WWI New
Billie herself points out in her memoirs
York theatre world. She didn’t mean she played
ment, in drawing room comedies and 6
that her mother was a stage mother -
the gold H at t e d L o v e r s
Katie-Louise Ford and Tim Nicol are the team behind
The Gold Hatted
Lovers.
They hail from Sydney, Aus-
tralia and have designed a 1930’s leisure clothing line. We spoke with the team to find out what it takes to design and launch a
vintage clothing line. Check out The Gold Hatted Lovers at www.thegoldhattedlovers.com/ss2014
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Courtesy of The Gold Hatted Lovers
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19 TVS_print_ad_illo.indd 1
2015-07-20 3:35 PM
Photo Credit Laura Burns
Dollie Deville
Dollie Deville runs the very popular blog The Rockabilly Socialite! Besides blogging about the rockabilly shows she attends (and the ones her husband plays in), she is also a pinup model, sells vintage clothing, does emceeing at many vintage events, has starred in TLC’s Wives With Beehives, is the co-founder and president of The Honeybee’s vintage ladies club, and most recently was hired, along with her husband, to be the US Contributors/Regular Columnists for Vintage Rock Magazine. What advice would you give someone who is looking to start living a vintage lifestyle? I would say, just know that it does not happen overnight. I am still learning everything I can about the era, especially from people who have lived it. It takes a lot of work, time and a lot of money, so make sure you really love it! You have mentioned that living a vintage lifestyle is more healthy than a modern day lifestyle. What tips can you give our readers that they can do, even when living modernly? Yes, I really believe that a vintage lifestyle is more green and healthy in a lot of ways. When I was growing up, I lived with my grandparents a lot. They rarely went out to eat and always cooked healthy homemade meals. My grandpa was
handy and always made things for around the house. They really appreciated what they had. I think that reusing vintage items and fixing things that are broken is very green. Also, it’s always healthy to use less and appreciate more. We live in a small house, which is very modest by modern standards. That means we use less water, electricity and space. We also like to avoid modern things like bottled water, microwaves, dishwashers, plastic dishes, etc. It’s great to get back to basics! You and your husband have undertaken the task of bringing your home back to the 1950s. What was the most challenging part of the renovation? What was the most rewarding part of it? The most challenging was finding and installing 1950s pink toilet and sink in our bathroom. We
did it all ourselves, including the wall mount sink, which meant opening up the drywall and installing more support beams. The most rewarding was to have it done, and see peoples responses to it. We always dreamed of a perfect matching ‘50s home, but never thought we would have one. We bought the house when I was only 23 and we paid every cent ourCollette Lash Photography
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We spent a morning at Ross Farm Museum in Nova Scotia, talking with interpreters
Gail
Lar-
der and Joyce Hiltz. The museum is the old homestead of Captain William Ross who settled the land in 1816. We visited Rosebank Cottage to talk to the ladies about what life was like for those who settled on farm land. We even got a taste of their amazing
squash/pump-
kin pie!
Gail and Joyce
are very passionate about teaching modern day folk about what life was like living in the 1800’s.
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5
FIVE free
Historic Reads 2 - Godey’s Lady’s Book By: Louis A. Godey; Sarah Josepha Hale Godey’s Lady’s Book and Magazine, July 1863 Link: archive.org/details/GodeysLadysBookJuly1863 Details: “That lady who understands true ladyship and refinement has this book upon her table.” – Press, Newton, Ill. The magazine was published from 1830 until 1898, having changed publishers only once. It was first published by Louis A. Godey and then by John Hill Seyes Haulenbeek. The magazine ceased upon his death. Sarah Josepha Hale was the editor from 1837 – 1877, and while her name may not be familiar, her work certainly is – Sarah wrote “Mary Had a Little Lamb”. This magazine has a little bit of everything: beautiful hand-tinted fashion plates, songs, the latest fashions, hair styles and accessories, articles. Some issues even have articles only written by women, stories, lessons and much more. Edgar Allan Poe had one of his early short stories published in the
1 - How Shall Women Dress? Published by The North American Review on June 1, 1885 Link: archive.org/details/jstor-25118498 Details: This delightful 16-page read speaks on the effect of heavy clothing on the woman’s body and gives a snapshot of the social challenges women faced at that time. There are various opinions on how women should dress, including abolishing petticoats and corsets, the future of fashion, and the state of the woman’s mind. Charles Dudley Warner states: “I am old-fashioned enough to believe that beauty is a duty women owe to society, and that the needed impression of grace and sweetness are refinement she can make in the world only by following the laws of her feminine being.” Kate J. Jackson states: “How to dress in accordance with principles of health, comfort, and true art, without undergoing social martyrdom, is the practical question.” 26
F O C US O N SMALL
BUS I N ESS
...with girl in a whirl custom clothing Bespoke Wearable Art - Handmade, custom designed skirt inspired by the novelty skirts of the 1940’s and 1950’s. Made in England.
it. I did 3 greyhound skirts one after another and word spread. I did hope I wasn’t going to be doing just dogs at this point, ha! What was the deciding factor to turn something you love doing into a business venture? The vintage shop wasn’t doing well and I have always wanted to make reproduction clothing, using my own fabric that I’ve designed, so it was a good starting point. I closed the shop and concentrated on spreading the word online and the orders have been coming in slowly. Since you contacted me, Dreamland has reopened in Margate and I had already had an order from a lady
How did you come about the idea for your business? I ran a vintage shop for a while and had some reproduction circle skirts in stock that weren’t selling. I have always sewn and so I made a couple of them into poodle skirts, like the ones they wore in the 50’s. A customer saw them and asked if I could make her one with a greyhound on it. I put a photo on the shop Facebook page and that was 28
a Day
in the life of a
Reenactor…
with Mary Ann and Don O’Neal
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1920’s D R E S S MAKER Thongbai Tatong is a selftaught designer and certifi d dressmaker. She started The House of Recollections for her customers who value the culture of the Roaring 20’s. Her mission was to create dresses for special events that fit the everyday body while appreciating the past. Every dress is made by her hand and fitted to each customer’s body to flatter their shape. w w w. f a c e b o o k . c o m / h ou s e of re c o l l e c t i on s 36
Dressing for the occasion, the weather, or the environment is truly an art form. Some are born with it, others struggle to understand it, and some want nothing to do with it. I personally fall into the middle category, although I must say our 21st century rules are a bit more forgiving than those of past centuries. While I may be personally glad I do not need to have separate outfits to go to the mall versus the grocery store, I do enjoy learning about women during the 1860’s who did. Much like the fashion writers of the 1860’s, I have organized the dressing dos and don’ts, into times of the day: most specifi ally morning dresses, outdoor dresses, and evening dresses. While this is in no way an exhaustive overview, it does aim to give fair attention to the most common types and occasions for dressing. When it comes to the morning attire at the home, less is more. In fact, for all morning functions, the simpler the outfit the more appropriate one becomes. Of course, this rule must be in proportion to one’s social status. Middle to lower class women are encouraged to wear large gingham aprons over their simple frocks, while the upper class would be reminded that while wrappers may be acceptable, all gowns must come in neatly at the waist. It’s a subtle way of saying, “wear a corset”, I suppose. Accessories follow this same structure, using only what is needed to fasten the clothes and slippers. Slippers, though, are only allowed at the breakfast table if they are not too heavily embroidered. But suppose a lady wishes to go out for the morning? Naturally there are recommendations, and of course, it depends on where you are wish to go. Marketing? Simple, tough fabric is strongly encouraged. Authors of this time describe the need for a fabric that can take a beating as one may brush against market tables, animal stalls, or any other dirty aspect of the street. Keep the shawls at home as they are prone to catching small objects along the way, as do long skirt trains, and ribbons or streamers of any sort. A plain colored sacque is the most recommended clothing for its form-fitting nature and the protection it offers to one’s person. Yes, the 19th century woman must always be on the watch for pickpockets. Oh, and that reminds me, no watches either! Visiting stores or boutiques? The same rules apply. However, the goal is to aim for more of a blend of femininity and business. Neutral tones in poplin or linen, with matching linen collars and cuffs are highly recommended for the shopping lady. Keep the bonnet trimming simple and inexpensive looking, with quiet colors not likely to bring undue attention. Two pocketbooks are a must, one to hide in the bosom, and one for change to store in a deep skirt pocket. Just make sure you always pay a delivery boy to carry home your packages! Outdoor dresses cover a variety of occasions, of which only four have been chosen for this piece. 42
RESEARCHING THE HISTORY OF YOUR HOME
with Robin Burgoyne
HAVE YOU EVER THOUGHT ABOUT WHO ELSE HAS LIVED IN YOUR HOUSE? WHO CHOSE THE WALLPAPER THAT YOU SPENT HOURS SCRAPING OFF? WHO CARVED THEIR INITIALS UNDER THE STAIRS IN THE FAR CORNER OR WHAT THAT PIECE OF HARDWARE IS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF HOUSE? THE NINE YEARS AGO, ROBIN BURGOYNE THOUGHT THAT PEOPLE WOULD WANT TO KNOW THE HISTORY OF THEIR HOMES. FROM THERE, CAERWENT HOUSESTORIES WAS BORN. Robin started Caer-
what she loves and
with a vision to help
back.
went HouseStories
has never looked
people research pre-
Her compa-
ny uses various ar-
vious owners and tenants, and in return she
chives, libraries, newspapers and interviews
about the City of Toronto. It took a lot of
ies of official documents, historical maps,
has learned an abundance of information
to put together a hardcover book with cop-
work and dedication to gain the knowledge
newspaper clippings and more. Robin goes
and understanding of where the resources
the extra mile to interview people who have
were. Having an MA with a specialization
been associated with the house as a part
in Canadian History, as well a background
of her research. There is even an option to
in Real Estate, Robin started a career doing
have a beautiful water color painting done 46
BesamĂŠ Cosmetics with Gabriella Hernandez
Gabriella Hernandez is a designer, an artist, and a cosmetic historian. She started BesamEĂŠ Cosmetics as she began dabbling in creating make-up with the style of products from the past. She wanted to make these types of products again so she,AND OTHER WOMEN could use them. 50
Jennifer Rosbrugh has always felt like she belonged in another time long ago. It was her grandmother, Elizabeth, that helped her get an understanding of the construction of garments and that fueled her interest in period clothing.
cccccccccccc When did you decide you wanted to replicate life in the 1800s? It was at an early age, perhaps 10 or 12, maybe younger. One of my foundational bits of inspiration came from the Disney film Summer Magic (1963) with Hayley Mills. I grew up when cable TV was new and the Disney channel was frequently on in our house. That movie made me fall in love with “Victorian” and “old-timey” fashion and just simply the way people lived in the country back then. It was marvelous to me! That, along with Pollyanna (also with Hayley) and the Anne of Green Gables films, solidified this turnof-the-century world I was only just learning about into an obsession of all things Victorian. Put that on top of my love of Disneyland—Main Street U.S.A.
Jennifer
Rosbrugh
ccccccccccccccccc
she later joined the costumer’s guild west and in 2004 became a teacher at costume college. today jennifer has a very popular blog and facebook page and runs an online store selling patterns and online classes being my favorite land of the park—and I craved to be a part of that world! Later as a teen I saw the film Slipper and the Rose (a brilliantly costumed 18th C. Cinderella story!) and my dream world exploded. Even though I had been sewing my own clothes since about age 10, my fascination for the 1800s started with the architecture. I can’t even say how many library books I checked out and drooled over on Victorian houses and interior decorating! Floor plans, blue54
prints, window treatments, gardens. All of it. For my Sweet 16 birthday party I hosted an “oldfashioned garden party” in the back yard using antique dishes and serving pieces and playing croquet. So much fun! But sewing has been such a passion of mine my entire life that eventually the natural interest in the clothes came into focus. Up until my mid-twenties, I thought Victorian meant only big puffy sleeves (you know, like Anne’s blue puffed sleeves) and long, full skirts.
What Are We Looking For
?
We want to hear from you! Do you have an ancestor that played an amazing role in history? Or perhaps you’ve involved in reenacting Vintage or Victorian eras? Do you have an older home and have renovated it and have tips to share? Are you a clothing designer and use the 1930’s as your inspiration?
We would love to hear from you! We are looking for:
Biographies - DIY projects - Historic renovations Fashion - Pin-up - Hair and make-up tutorials Lost traditions - Collections enactors - Designers And we are pretty open! We love unique people and are happy to showcase you and your story. We are also looking for your living history pictures! Please send us your name, location, and event with the picture.
Contact us at
submissions@vintorian.com
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www.facebook.com/vintorian VINTORIAN PUBLICATIONS | DIGITAL MAGAZINE | VOLUME 2 | DECEMBER 2015 | WWW.VINTORIAN.COM
Volume 2
Next Issue Our next digital issue will be out by mid-December. Many of our favorites will be back for you to enjoy and we are featuring many holiday recipes, traditions, DIY projects and tips to help you with your vintage or Victorian holiday celebrations. We hope you enjoyed our first issue and are looking forward to the next issue. We value your feedback and would love your suggestions for future articles.
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