This Is Antwerp #4

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Junya IshIgamI

How small? How vast?

How arcHitecture grows

WELCOME TO ANTWERP

Junya Ishigami+associates, little gardens, 2007-2008, Tokyo Š Takumi Ota

FrI 08.02 > sun 16.06.2013 free exHibition DesguInleI 25 / B-2018 anTwerp / www.DesIngel.Be Open wed > sun 2 > 6 pm & with performances clOseD mon, tue and holidays desingel international arts campus is subsidised by the flemish community and is supported by

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party patrol

BAD HAIR DAY?!

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Like us on facebook

Inspring Antwerp: Nello & Patrasche

facebook.com/thisisantwerp winter wonderland 14

Meals around the world

COOL CONCEPTS

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antwerp underground

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Bad Hair Day?!

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Party patrol

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Inspiring Antwerp: Nello & Patrasche

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winter wonderland

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free wifi

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Cool Concepts

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Antwerp Underground

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Meals around the world

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Sleep in Style

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THIS IS ANTWERP Stylish & confident.

Vibrant & cosmopolitan.

Heart-warming & relaxed.

Welcome to Antwerp!

You have arrived in the epicenter of style, fashion, design, culinary delights and diamonds.

This city is all about creation, innovation, diversity and inspiration. We are proud to present to you a young and vibrant place where boredom is not an option. With this magazine we will make sure that you have an unforgettable winter: By sending you to the coolest hair salons in town, we provide you with a great hairstyle that will pump you and get you ready for a fresh start in 2013. To get you further acquainted with fashion and design we will introduce you to a number of intriguing concept stores. Your gastronomic appetite and

Colophon This magazine is a publication of the city of Antwerp and Antwerp Tourism & Convention. It was edited with great care.

Antwerp Tourism & Convention cannot be held responsible for printing errors or changes. No part of this publication may be used by third parties without prior written consent of Antwerp Tourism & Convention.

None of the addresses mentioned in this magazine paid for mentioning it in any way.

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Publisher Antwerp Tourism & Convention – Annik Bogaert Grote Markt 15, BE2000 Antwerp Editors in chief Antwerp Tourism & Convention Trendwolves Design & Illustration We Make Graphics Jango Jim

hunger to experience different cultures, will be stilled with our extensive list of restaurants that enable you to nibble a little from every continent. When darkness falls you can come together and experience the spectacles of the Antwerp nightlife. Also during the day we will deepen your urban knowledge by exposing you to an exciting underground network filled with food, entertainment, history and much more. Even for those days when the weather is spiteful and it is cold and rainy, a whole list of extensive hotspots and activities is awaiting you.

This is Antwerp is your must have guide to enjoy the city to the fullest.

What are you waiting for? It is time to go!

Photography Jan Crab Copywrite Nuphar Nevo Ringo Gomez Jorge Print Artoos Depotnumber D/2012/0306/134

Bad Hair day?!

We live in a society where appearance matters and that can be quite challenging.

Luckily in Antwerp there is a hair salon on almost every corner of the street, but how do you distinguish the wannabes from the professionals? Some brave locals have been sent on an exploratory journey through numerous hair salons all over town, where they were subjected to all sorts of treatments: cutting, dying, shaving and colouring. The goal of this mission was to find pleasant and trendy or edgy locations with friendly hairdressers, where you can upgrade your hairstyle without going bankrupt.

Snip.Snip If you haven’t visited a hairdresser in a billion years because you’re disgusted about the way they treat you or talk to you, it’s time to try Snip.Snip. Hiske, the owner, founded her salon in the Zurenborg district, but relocated recently into a breathtaking art-deco building in the center of the Jewish neighbourhood. Hiske makes you feel very much at ease, she compliments you on your hair in such a friendly way and assures that the both of you will work something out. You immediately feel at home in this most relaxing environment. While your hair is getting a full

treatment, you can chat with other people in the salon, read a little and relax!

For a proper Snip.Snip experience it’s best to make an appointment. Have a look at their facebook page for a general idea of their style. Every day pictures are posted of satisfied clients, so feel free to be inspired! A new haircut will cost you 50 euros and together with a new hair colour you will pay 90 euros. The innovative style, passion and friendly ambiance are only a number of reasons that make this place so popular and fantastic.

For a head to toe royal treatment, this

salon is a great address. Get a manny and peddy by the in-house beautician for the ultimate feeling! Pure bliss, that’s what this is.

Snip.Snip Charlottalei 36, 2018 Antwerp +32 (0)3 345 75 76 www.snipsnip.be F Snip.Snip Charlotte Coppens beautician www.charlottecoppens.be

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De Natuurkapper This hair salon is all about using natural products and isn’t afraid to show it. The delicious smelling oils welcome you into the wonderous world of natural hair care.

Warning: appointments have to be made nearly lightyears in advance! You can’t be bothered with making such arrangements? No worries, every Wednesday you can stroll into the first floor of the salon where Hanna will take you under her wing. You might have to wait a little but the Natuurkapper makes sure you can entertain yourself with some (nutritious) refreshments and a seriously interesting collection of magazines. A sneak preview of what is to come: the treatment starts with an oiling session for your hair and a stimulating head massage, followed by a short incubation under the vaporizer that optimalizes the absorption of all the oils and butters. After a proper hair washing, your head is rewarded again with a brief but blissful massage. When the time has come for the actual haircut, telling the hairdressers what you want is optional.

With Hanna’s expertise you’re in great hands and so even without directions, she

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will give your hair a great look that suits your face shape and personality. Expected costs for this experience are 45 euros, a price which is definitely worth the result.

De Natuurkapper Minderbroedersrui 45, 2000 Antwerp +32 (0)3 294 73 86 www.natuurkapper.be

New Trend This hair salon is one from a far past with pin-ups, rock ‘n’ roll music, corvettes and cadillacs. Men, hold on to your moustache while owner Rudi manually sharpens his blade for some traditional shaving and cutting. The ladies are awaiting a transformation from wife Cindy, who turns a modern day woman into a legendary ‘rockabilly’ beauty. These hairdressers are known to take their time and provide clients with a quality haircut in a cozy and unique atmosphere. New Trend is a cutting edge salon that is located in the center of Antwerp and offers all desired services: barbering, cutting, colouring, hair updos and much more. Feel free to pass by and have a look, just remember

that this salon is closed on Monday. Prices are between 15 to 30 euros.

New Trend Nationalestraat 53, 2000 Antwerp +32 (0)475 95 94 53

Hair by van Loenhout There are hairdressers and there are hair stylists. If you really want something special, such as an innovative cut or colour that perfectly fits your frame, you should go to Hair by van Loenhout. Mr van Loenhout himself has first gained ten years of experience in the Walhalla of extreme haircuts in London, before he started his own business in Antwerp. Currently The van Loenhout empire consists of another four salons and an academy in Korea.

Everybody has had these experiences with hairdressers where you feel traumatized after your visit. You might start to cut and dye your own hair, swearing off hair salons. But at some point in life, you might want to go back. Sure, you aren’t too keen on barging into the next best salon, so if you are getting back on the horse, you could try Hair by van Loenhout, suppos-

edly the classiest hairdresser in town.

Upon entering the salon you’ll quickly leave your distrust and skeptical attitude at the door. You’ll immediately realize that you’re in great hands and can trust these people. Just explain your vision to them and wait to be astonished when two hours later, your hair will look exactly the way you’d pictured it. Even better! Maybe next time you’ll give this hairdresser a carte-blanche…

The price tag of a new haircut is not mellow. But then again should it be, knowing that you leave this place looking better than you ever have? People from all over Europe fly in to get the Hair by van Loenhout look. Think about it, what is a better souvenir from the city of fashion than a gorgeous hair cut?

Hair by van Loenhout Minderbroedersrui 51 2000 Antwerp +32 (0)3 288 78 78 www.vanloenhout.be F Hair by van Loenhout

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Sirwan

Kavka

The Sint-Gummarusstraat in the North Antwerp is one of those globalised streets where you can find products from any corner of the world. The hair salon Sirwan is located here as well. The owner is a refugee that fled from Iraq, thereafter received training to become a hairdresser in Dubai and then opened his own salon in Jordan. This incredible experience has left Sirwan with a no nonsense attitude.

In his store every client is welcomed with great hospitality, put on a chair and given a proper shave and a haircut. The store is quite basic but the service is speedy and efficient. The prices are low, the style is great and the salon happens to be located in one of the most pleasant streets of this neighbourhood.

If you are starting to look like cousin ‘it’ from the Addam’s family but your budget is tighter than tight, don’t despair! Every Thursday afternoon you can get a 6 euros haircut at the Kavka youth center on the Oudaan. Advanced students from the Antwerp hairdressing academy can nicely trim your wild manes. All you have to do beforehand is make an appointment and wash your hair, because they won’t. A Kavka haircut is the perfect way to save some money and look like a million bucks.

Sirwan Sint-Gummarusstraat 55, 2060 Antwerp

Kavka Oudaan 14, 2000 Antwerp www.kavka.be F Kavka Jongerencentrum

Party Patrol

by R ingo Go mez Jo r g e

Antwerp has a very wild and exciting nightlife but it doesn’t have a lot of fixed venues. There are of course the conventional mainstream disco’s, characterized by heavy bouncers, laser shows and popular radio music. Places like Noxx, Café d’Anvers, Café Local and The Red & Blue (although Café d’Anvers has a cool line-up sometimes). However, these places don’t satisfy the whims of people who have a slightly more distinguished personality and higher standards.

Seeing the slim number of interesting clubs, young organizers started creating alternative places to party and with that a new concept arose: pop-up clubbing.

Antwerp underground organizers build parties in every pawn available: in the back of a strange Polish bar, an abandoned convent and in old factories.

The venues are mostly temporary and the organizers lead a drifting life. Due to constant relocations, all communication

happens through the internet and especially via social media, with Facebook on top. To keep track, it is best to become friends with the organizers on Facebook.

Dress up or keep your rags on, it’s up to you. Antwerp parties attract hipsters, bums, fashionista’s, bohemians and gays. Fashion meets trash, high heels are combined with ripped T-shirts, short skirts with sneakers, anything goes. Some girls come barging in with leopard print leggings, while others wear black designer clothes. The Antwerp youngsters love kitsch and glitter, odd locations and mashup music. From hip hop to techno, from eighties synths to nineties sitcom tracks.

Pop-up clubs are a typical Antwerp thing.

Apart from these parties, there are still some fixed venues worth going to. A great place, although more of a concert venue is Trix. Also Kavka throws cool parties and concerts. Additionally there’s Oohwee door mathias hannes

the Pekfabriek, an old factory located in Borgerhout and linked to a bar called Plaza Real. Every three months or so, the owner hosts a party and it’s always packed.

Magic Club is also more or less settled; it is located at the Ramada Plaza hotel.

Before reading what five important party organizers have to say, here’s a list.

Facebook ‘em, like ‘em and become best friends! Kannibaal, Oohwee, Matterhorn, Magic, Kissinger, Noord, Bar Leon, Hush Hush, Lieven De Ridder, Bar Nadar, Stadslimiet, Warre Fungüs, Flying Saucers Are Real, Ra 13, Scandals! Mofo party, Pekfabriek, Oui Les Filles, Radio Centraal, Zak Patat, Kelly Splinter.

Noord: the big bang of Antwerp parties Who are you?

I’m Bert, a psychologist that got swallowed by the Antwerp nightlife. I started with Noord and Kelly Splinter. After a while I got slightly tired of the transience of it all and decided to open a bar called Bar Leon.

Describe a Noord party?

Noord is a nomadic party project, characterized by weird and smelly back-rooms in old gaybars, goobers and warehouses. We attract everybody who’s not into being fancy: friendly people in their twenties, unemployed boho’s with artistic perspectives, men-loving men, hipster kids with shiny

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boots. The music can be described as eurodance, sleazy house and a touch of disco.

Hush Hush: new player on the party field You found a great location!

We found a home at DE Studio. It’s the old building belonging to the Herman Teirlinck acting school at the Mechelseplein, right in the city centre. It’s very spacious and cozy at the same time. There are several rooms so the crowd can wander around a bit.

We have a very authentic dance floor, it is round and enclosed which gives a claustrophobic but sexy feeling.

What can we expect at a Hush Hush party?

Funky and edgy music. 70s, 80s, 90s and noughties. Anything’s possible. There’s no presale, no guest list, no VIP and no backstage. First come, first serve. Hush Hush stands for big parties and small ego’s.

Magic in the basement How did you stumble upon this cool venue?

Funky and edgy music. 70s, 80s, 90s and noughties. Anything’s possible. There’s no presale, no guest list, no VIP and no backOohwee door mathias hannes

stage. First come, first serve. Hush Hush stands for big parties and small ego’s.

Magic parties are a bit more chique.

There’s a limited capacity so we work with a guest list. We have waiters, premium spirits and offer hotel rooms to our party people!

Underground partying with Oohwee Robin Hectors, tell me about Oohwee.

It started as a small party concept that I created with some friends and it was initially focused on the Antwerp electronic scene.

Eventually, it grew into being a label. We love hip hop, uk bass, miami bass, edm, idm,… We’re nomadic and party all over Antwerp.

You also work for Scheld’apen.

It’s an art space where creative people can do their thing. We also organize parties and concerts. Music-wise, Scheld’apen is a place for people who like noise, free jazz, spacy neo-folk and other weird stuff.

Matterhorn is a sexy mountain What happens at a Matterhorn party?

At Matterhorn parties we play music from sexy deep house to pumping classics such as NY stomp. Our audience is an eclectic bunch of people that walked right out of a Benetton catalogue. It’s hard to label the crowd.

Let’s say that our events are 21+ and stick to that.

You don’t have a fixed venue. I’m guessing we should Facebook you guys?

You should become Facebook friends with Matthew Vanderhorn, that’s our pseudonym. Matthew has all the answers to your existential questions.

Kannibaal means cannibal.

Nice name. So …

We organize about five parties a year. It depends on our mood. We party at different locations and it’s always for free. You can expect some live acts and a very well picked selection of meat humping DJ’s.

Oohwee door mathias hannes

Magic door jan op de kamp

FSAR door silas corujeira

What kind of music are we talking about?

Ancient techno and rusty synths, obscure disco and space funk, old new wave and new old wave.

And the people?

They are the right breed.

Inspiring Antwerp: Nello & Patrasche The story of Nello & Patrasche is better known as ‘A dog of Flanders’. Thousands of people from Japan to the USA come to see Rubens’s paintings in the Cathedral of Antwerp, just like Nello & Patrasche did before they died in front of these paintings. Antwerp-based illustrator Jango Jim turned this beautiful but sad story into a colourful cartoon. www.jangojim.be

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Winter Wonderland

The winter season is taken very seriously here and before the first breeze of wind or snow flake even appears, we organize an exhausting list of activities. So get prepared to wrap yourself up, as we will not let you become a couch potato or sing the winter blues this year. The city of Antwerp has arranged a bunch of in - and outdooractivities, promising you an amazing time. You can do whatever your heart desires: iceskating, bar hopping, going to the movies or steaming away in a wellness center. It’s all up to you!

Ice-skating at the Badboot Last summer this stretched out, colossal boat arrived at the port of Antwerp and served as a swimming pool. To endure the winter, this gigantic pool has been transformed into the worlds largest, floating skating rink. From mid November till the end of February you can have your way on the ice or cheer at others from within the winter tent. Skating on this ice is a unique experience as the glazed surface only sticks out 60 centimeters above the actual dock.

Badboot Kattendijkdok (Oostkaai), 2000 Antwerp www.badboot.be F Badboot

Pancakes at Linkeroever Nothing compares to a good stroll on a cold winter’s day at Linkeroever (Left Bank of the river). Whoever wanders around long enough, eventually arrives at the beach of Sint-Anna, where you can choose from one of the many cosy restaurants. Have a delicious pancake with a hot chocolate and seize the moment to admire the gorgeous view on the river Scheldt and the illuminated port behind you.

Sint-Anna beach Wandeldijk, 2050 Antwerp (Left Bank)

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Hammam There are plenty of fun activities to do in the winter and going for a swim in the Veldstraat in the North part of town would be one of them. This art-deco swimming pool is located near the Stuivenbergplein and is connected to a luxurious wellness center. So after setting the olympic record for floating, you can spoil yourself with a delightful hammam experience. This tranquilizing setting is the perfect location to warm up your body and dream away. At the front desk of the hammam you can get towels, soap, ghassoul and other items that you might need. Note: every visitor is obliged to cover themselves with swimwear or a towel. Downstairs you can get a body scrub, massage or just chill out in the steam room. The hammam also has room where you can enjoy all sorts of healthy beverages, mint tea, coffee and oriental nibbles. While you are here, make sure to obtain more information on all the treatments and products that this hammam has to offer.

Swimming pool & Hammam Veldstraat 83, 2060 Antwerp www.sportoase.be/nl/veldstraat F Sportoase Veldstraat

Antwerp Bowling For a fun and lighthearted night out you should make a reservation at Antwerp Bowling at Linkeroever (Left Bank). The moment you walk into this place you feel a Saturday Night Fever sensation coming up. Somehow the bright neon lights and corny music put everyone at ease and make sure you have a playful evening. If all

those ‘strikes’ make you hungry don’t hesitate to order a cheese platter, even the snacks in this place are pretty damn good.

Antwerp Bowling Blancefloerlaan 181, 2050 Antwerp (Left Bank) www.antwerpbowling.be F Antwerp Bowling

Jenever & Grog De Vagant

On the corner of the Reyndersstraat and the Pelgrimstraat you can find café De Vagant. In medieval times the term ‘vagant’ referred to someone who leads a wandering and adventurous lifestyle. This café seeks to introduce visitors and locals to the taste of authentic spirits. At first glance De Vagant has an old men’s charm to it, with its wooden tables and dark brown shades. It is the ultimate place to become acquainted with an extensive collection of jenever and some loyal but flamboyant customers.

Witzli Poetzli Blauwmoezelstraat (next to the Cathedral), 2000 Antwerp F Witzli Poetzli

Movies in Style

De Vagant

To avoid long queues, flying popcorn and noisy neighbours we would like to introduce you to a number of alternative cinemas.

Antwerp is a cultivated city and therefore its population has a soft spot for authenticity, especially when it comes to recreational matters. In this city you can still find a few locations where a cinema is not just an efficiently running enterprise, but a soulful place where you can enjoy watching great productions in an original setting.

Reyndersstraat 25, 2000 Antwerp www.devagant.be

DE ROMA

Witzli Poetzli This is a small café in the city center of Antwerp and is literally positioned in the shadows of the cathedral. The chaotic interior of this café looks just as puzzling and mystical as it sounds. It is the type of location where strangers become friends and artists have heated philosophical discussions with other intellectuals. In addition to the unique ambiance you can drink authentic beverages such as grog, rum, hot cocoa with cinnamon and honey. The Witzli Poetzli is mostly known for its notoriously delicious coffees.

This theater opened its doors in 1928 and has witnessed many epic performances by legends such as Iggy Pop and Paul McCartney ever since. After a slight depression, De Roma was renovated and thereby restored to its former glory. Currently the hall is flourishing; the dramatic interior design with red velvet chairs, curtains and heavy marble pillars attracts people from all ages and origins. Watching a movie in the most beautiful theater in Antwerp is an exciting and luxurious experience.

De Roma Turnhoutsebaan 286, 2140 Antwerp www.deroma.be F De Roma Vzw

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K AVK A

klappei

This is a youth center that aims to provide creative youngsters with a platform to organize their own events, participate in workshops and rehearse for all sorts of performances. As if that doesn’t suffice, the center also plays movies and is a great meeting point for young artists. Kavka is located at the Oudaan near the police station and was the focal point in 2011 when Antwerp was named European Youth Capital. Don’t be shy and just pass by!

Movie theater Klappei is probably the most unknown theater in Antwerp. This little picturesque cinema is situated in the 2060 area, right behind Designcenter De Winkelhaak and café De Vogelenzang.

The auditorium only contains 50 seats, which makes it the perfect location for a date. Their selection varies from old time classics (think Vertigo) to more recent Hollywood Blockbusters like Batman.

A night at Klappei will set you back about 3 euro, after which you can go and grab a drink at a neighbouring bar or you could just go down the street to a pub called De Kroon.

Kavka Oudaan 14, 2000 Antwerp www.kavka.be F Kavka Jongerencentrum

CARTOON’S

Klappei Klappeistraat 2, 2060 Antwerp www.klappei.be F Filmhuis Klappei

This is a well-hidden cinema, situated in one of Antwerp’s narrow side streets near the Grote Markt. It looks like a tribute to the movie theaters in the thirties and is the perfect place to watch qualitative art-house movies. Cartoon’s mostly plays European productions and is the right address to get the ultimate cinema feeling!

Cartoon’s Kaasstraat 4-6, 2000 Antwerp www.cartoons-cinema.be F Cinema Cartoon’s

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Wifi & more

homemade dishes which they change up every few days. If you want to eat, make sure to reserve a table or come in early ‘cause this place is always crowded!

Café Camino Earlier this year, Café Camino opened its doors on the Vrijdagmarkt. The café itself is small but nice, bright yet cozy. A place where you can feel at home, just drinking a coffee and reading a newspaper. Perhaps the most interesting time to visit this place is on Friday morning when it’s flea market time. They serve everything from breakfast to lunch, American pancakes to Asian-inspired tortillas. If it’s one of those rare sunny days and you want to sit outside having a drink, this is the place to be!

Stanleystraat 1, 2018 Antwerp Mon – Sat: 12:00 a.m.- …

Vrijdagmarkt 5, 2000 Antwerp Mo - Thu: 10:00 a.m. – 6 p.m.

Fri: 8:00 a.m. – 6 p.m.

Sat - Sun: 10:00 a.m. – 6 p.m.

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Café Stanny Located near Berchem station, café Stanny is the most popular place in Berchem. This small yet cozy café is the perfect place to hang out and grab a drink with your friends. They do have a small menu of

Plein Midi More and more places in Antwerp are serving breakfast and Plein Midi is one of them.

This place has a lot of different choices, which is pretty unique. You can get a Spanish, English, Swedish or Belgian breakfast.

If you’re not a morning person, you could just go in the afternoon for some delicious sandwiches. Plein Midi is located on the beautiful Sint-Paulusplaats, right next to café Homey, where you can grab a drink afterwards.

Sint-Paulusplaats 23, 2000 Antwerp Tue - Sun: 10:00 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Vitrin Picture this: you just finished your dinner at Fiskebar and you want to continue the night with some drinks then Vitrin is your best option. This small cafe is always filled with people, morning till night ! If you

want to get some work done, this might be the ideal place for you. A lot of people come here to work (mostly artists, graphic designers,…) and a lot of people come here to drink. So all in all this is one of the best bars in Antwerp.

Marnixplaats 14, 2000 Antwerp Mon-Sun:10:00 a.m. - ….

Broer Bretel Broer Bretel is an easy breezy and fun coffee bar, located at ‘t Eilandje, next to the MAS museum. The menu is set up with multiple questions that help you on deciding, whether you want warm or cold coffee and tea or just soda water. Everything is homemade! The coffee bar is situated in a great area and for the two brothers that run this place, coffee is a calling! Besides delicious caffeine and home-made goodies you can also enjoy their impressive collection of books and free wifi!

Nassaustraat 7, 2000 Antwerp Tue – Sat: 9:30 a.m. – 6 p.m.

Sun: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. www.broerbretel.be F Broer Bretel

For more wifi spots, download the This is Antwerp app

Krokbar Fabiola The krokbar is heaven on earth for someone who has the munchies. Here they have everything; classic croque monsieurs, American style croques with bacon, a croque forestière with mushrooms and grilled cheese. Its croque paradise! You can even customize it and make your very own personal croque. A slight oddity is that queen Fabiola is an ever present symbol here, she appears in all the books and even in the decoration. According to the Krokbar, she is a true icon and therefore you are only entitled to use the free wifi, if you manage to find her birth date…

Sint-Antoniusstraat 4, 2000 Antwerp Mo – Wed:10 a.m. – 5:30 p.m.

Fri – Sat: 10 a.m. – 7:30 p.m.

Sun:10 a.m. – 5:30 p.m.

F Fabiola Revista Need some ‘me time’ with a magazine?

Don’t bother to buy one, just pass by Revista at Antwerp South. Besides a proper breakfast, lunch and coffee you can also choose from an entire wall of magazines.

This place has all sorts of reading materi-

als, whether you need something brain stimulating, inspiring or are just hungry for some juicy gossip. Thanks to the free wifi you can get your work done, check your emails and read in between about Antwerp’s finest hotspots.

Karel Rogierstraat 47, 2000 Antwerp Mo – Fri: 8 a.m. – 8 p.m.

Sat – Sun: 10 a.m. – 8 p.m.

Via Via Via Via’s are meeting places for world travelers, they are intersections between North, South, East and West. At least, that is how this café describes itself. The concept exists in many cities around the globe and is usually a location where travelers and locals can do all sorts of exchanges, attend a concert, enjoy some affordable nutrition or just hang out. It is a great place to listen to some Mediterranean music, read a travel guide or just use the free wifi!

Wolstraat 43, 2000 Antwerp Mo – Sat: 11:30 a.m. - …

Sun: 3 p.m. - … www.viaviacafe.com/nl/antwerpen F ViaVia Travellers Café

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Cool Concepts The city of Antwerp is known around the globe for its remarkable fashion industry and great shopping places. Many legendary designers have actually received their training and inspiration in Antwerp, before entering fame and fortune overseas. It’s therefore safe to conclude that this city encourages creativity and is a breeding place for artists. Visitors often tend to stay on the safe side and go only to the mainstream shops, but there is much more to it.

Throughout the city there are miscellaneous unique stores, that come in all shapes and sizes and that bolster all sorts of ideas, concepts and visions. With this guide you can catch a glimpse of what local designers and artists are developing and creating.

MOOSE in the CITY This store is equipped with whatever you need for a successful winter in Scandinavia or Antwerp. With 400 square meters the store sells virtually anything from design furniture, to clothing, books and accessories.

Prices tend to vary as MOOSE in the CITY sells qualitative brands like Filippa K, Björn Borg, Peak Performance. Those who truly seek to

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experience the Scandinavian life can receive assistance from the travel agency ‘North and Away’ which is also located in the store. If that doesn’t suffice, you can just buy yourself a Volvo and drive off into the sunset.

MOOSE in the CITY IJzerenwaag 10 - 12, 2000 Antwerp www.moose-in-the-city.com F MOOSE in the CITY

Artifex

Dreadlovers

Anyone who ever wondered where urban artists buy there materials, this is the address! Artifex is a compact store that has an impressive selection of books and magazines relating to urban design, art toys, spray cans and other graffiti equipment. For people who want to learn the tricks of the trade, they even provide workshops. After leaving this store, no wall is safe! If you’re not so keen on spray painting your own living room, don’t despair. Through Artifex you can book professionals to do it for you. From the 26th of January till the 25th of March you can admire the work of Steve Locatelli and other big names at the Street Art Gallery Artifex at the Oude Koornmarkt 53.

If you want a change of hair but a (conventional) hairdresser won’t do the trick, go to Dreadlovers. It is a petite but cozy place where you can enjoy wifi, tea and home-made cookies while you or a friend get ‘dreadlocked’. This store sells hair dye and make-up in all colors of the rainbow but also regular extensions, clipons and dread extensions. Dreadlovers also has a unique selection of piercing and body art. Available brands are: Manic Panic, Star Gazer and Crazy Colours. Also take a peek at their Indian basement where you can get inspired by oriental colors and sip on a mango Lassi.

Artifex GraffitiShop

Dreadlovers Sint-Antoniusstraat 74, 2000 Antwerp www.dreadlovers.be

Kammenstraat 58, 2000 Antwerp www.graffitishopartifex.be F Artifex GraffitiShop Designertoys

Street Art Gallery Artifex Oude Koornmarkt 53, 2000 Antwerp www.artifexgallery.be F Street Art Gallery Artifex

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Mekanik Welcome to the most renowned comic book store of Antwerp. Before entering, make sure to check out the iconic Spiderman crawling on the front wall.

The store itself is a long and narrow place where there is clearly more room for books than people. As you tiptoe through the infinite rows with comics and gadgets you realize that the silence is as deafening as in a library. This is the ideal place to lose yourself in a dimension of villains, heroes and other fictional characters.

Don’t forget to climb up to the second floor, upstairs there is an expo with art works made by local illustrators and designers.

Mekanik Sint-Jacobsmarkt 73, 2000 Antwerp www.mekanik-strip.be

100gr DESIGN This design shop is located in a somewhat, shabby looking shopping street in downtown Antwerp. Here you can find

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all sorts of funky and interesting gadgets, jewelry made by local designers, vintage design and even underwear or socks.

The store has an all-embracing and ever changing collection of items that are perfect for gift hunting. Once you have made up your mind, you should go downstairs and have a look at the current exhibition. Their expo always features a different collection of innovating and exhilarating art.

100gr DESIGN Lange Winkelhaakstraat 26 2060 Antwerp www.winkelhaak.be F 100gr DESIGN

Kornelia For hand-made jewelry, ceramics, paintings and post-cards you should have a look at Kornelia on Klapdorp. A young designer who envisioned a holistic concept, in which the workshop and the store are harmoniously intertwined, owns the store. Kornelia is all about encouraging creativity and therefore

offers numerous workshops in jewelry making. The studio also sells various items made by fellow jewelers, artists and craftsmen. Interesting about this store is its bright white interior with little pictures and frames that display the jewelry. It is a small studio that has a very pure and friendly vibe to it.

Kornelia Klapdorp 57, 2000 Antwerp www.kornelia.be F kornelia

Coffee & Vinyl The name says it; this location is a coffee shop, record store and art gallery all in one. Coffee & Vinyl is located in Antwerp South area and has earned its popularity by being a threefold concept that attracts anyone in need for a good hang-out place.

In the back of the store you can find a surprising collection of old LP’s, singles and CD’s. For warm, cold, iced and alcoholic beverages you go the front of the store where you can also buy delicious pastry and exquisite rolls.

the Americas and genuine Ephameron art.

Still don’t know what I am talking about?

Pass by Klapdorp and have a look at it yourself!

Yulles Klapdorp 59, 2000 Antwerp F Yulles

Coffee & Vinyl Volkstraat 45, 2000 Antwerp www.coffeeandvinyl.com F Coffee & Vinyl

Yulles This store is specialized in antiquities and vintage. However don’t let the term ‘vintage’ fool you, as this is no average second-hand store where you can dig up a retro leather jacket or a couch. Yulles sells qualitative and pricy collector’s items such as Osborn handmade footwear from

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Antwerp Underground

As you walk through the streets of Antwerp you realize that this picturesque and cosmopolitan city offers an abundance of interesting and captivating locations.

What many visitors and locals don’t know is that below the city surface there is a myriad of options.

The mysterious and vibrant underground life of Antwerp consists of restaurants, clubs, and various sorts of entertainment, but also historical sites, transport and art exhibitions.

Unique about this underground network is that its facilities are not exclusively available to a certain elite, but to anyone who wants to know this city inside out and upside down.

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Poesjenellenkelder During the 19th century the local population of Antwerp found its entertainment in enchanting puppet theaters. From the forty sites that were widespread all over town, only one puppeteer remained.

The Poesjenellenkelder in the Repenstraat has managed to live through all other sort of modern entertainment. From its opening in 1862 till now, it hasn’t stopped lighting up people’s faces over and over again. Witness how Pulcinella and other colourful characters put up an incredible show and pay this underground theater a visit now!

Poesjenellenkelder Repenstraat, 2000 Antwerp

Pelgrom The city center of Antwerp provides a countless number of (public) kitchens that are waiting to serve and feed starving visitors. If you want to take it to another level, you should go down to the Pelgrom. This medieval restaurant sheds a new light on the term underground. This is no wet and dark dungeon but a cozy and warm place where you can enjoy great food in a unique and historical setting.

Pelgrom Pelgrimstraat 15, 2000 Antwerp www.pelgrom.be

Ruien Like most cities from the past, Antwerp has an underground network that has served several purposes throughout the years.

The ruien were originally built as a defense system, were then used for water supply and eventually as a sour. To make sure that this part of Antwerp won’t be forgotten, the underground network has been made accessible to the public. From the Ruihuis you can undertake a tour by an experienced guide. During a three hour visit you can discover interesting anecdotes and imagine what the streets used to look like way back when. Warning: this is not recommendable for people who are claustrophobic or afraid of spiders and other fine little things.

Tickets Ruien Grote Markt 13, 2000 Antwerp www.visitantwerpen.be

Sint-Anna ‘pedestrian’ tunnel For a panoramic view of Antwerp or a simple cross-over to Linkeroever, do as every Antwerpian and go through the Sint-Anna tunnel. From the Sint-Jansvliet you and your bike can descend either with the elevator or with the escalator below the Scheldt.

Taking the escalator might seem as unnecessary effort but wait till you see this beautiful wooden construction that originates from the thirties. You might just change your mind! The tunnel has a length of 572 meters and is accessible for both pedestrians and bikers. The way up is just like the way down, take the elevator or the escalator but get your camera ready this time; the view upstairs is priceless!

Sint-Anna ‘Pedestrian’ tunnel Sint-Jansvliet, 2000 Antwerp

Magic In the basement of the Ramada Plaza Hotel a pleasant surprise awaits you: a small but glamorous disco hall was brought into the party scene by Magic. This jewel is a full package deal with special effects. The authentic dance floor has coloured tiles that light up when you dance. Once the party is over and you have been swept off your feet, you can always get a room in the hotel upstairs.

Magic Ramada Plaza, Desguinlei 94, 2018 Antwerp www.wearemagic.be F Magic

Central station The central station of Antwerp has been rightfully pronounced to be one of the most beautiful stations globally. However there’s more than meets the eye, when you walk through this incredible railway station. A couple of years ago two additional floors arose from the deep and today the view from the ground floor is mind blowing. Whoever goes down to the tracks on these newly added floors, feels as if they are time travelling into the future. The mirrors, geometric shapes and blue light add a finishing touch to this ingenious construction. Below the station a stupendous party hall is waiting for its doors to open and welcome tons of wild crowds who are eager to turn this place upside down.

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Central Station Koningin Astridpleid 27, 2018 Antwerp www.nmbs.be

Fortification at the underground parking ‘Nationale Bank’ Near the national bank of Antwerp in the city center, an underground parking is preserving the remnants of the SintJorispoort. This fortification was built in the 16th century by the emperor Karl and demolished by the end of the 19th century. When the streets of modern day Antwerp were renovated, the remains of this fortification emerged. Due to its cultural and historical significance, the city of Antwerp decided to restore this relic. Soon the 30 meter long wall will be visible from floor -3 of the ‘Nationale Bank’ car parking. This impressive sight will fuel the interest of anyone with a soft spot for history.

Car Park ‘Nationale Bank’ Frankrijklei 166a, 2000 Antwerp

Expohall Winkelhaak The designcenter known as the Winkelhaak is an architectural treasure that is located near the central station. It is home to an assemblage of young creative companies, the concept store 100gr DESIGN and a coffee bar for creative freelancers called Bar d’Office.

The Winkelhaak has a large basement that is used for exhibitions displaying the creations of young and brilliant artists. Occasionally

the ‘tub’ is transformed into a pop-up store. Every two years the basement is used by the Dubieus Designbeurs, a fair that promotes and presents affordable design. Sporadically the basement is used to host a party. Give in to your curiosity and throw a glance at this remarkable center.

Designcentrum De Winkelhaak Lange Winkelhaakstraat 26, 2060 Antwerp www.winkelhaak.be F Designcenter de Winkelhaak

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Meals around the world

Antwerp has evolved into a multicultural city that is home to many people with different nationalities, ethnicities and traditions. Fortunately most communities have kept their own culture and kitchen with great pride and are eager to show what their food is all about. Armed with some tips from our locals, we went on a ‘kitchen hunt’ to find the best restaurants with respect to food, budget and ambiance. The city’s culinary scenery is so diverse and extensive that can you actually taste your way around the globe, without having to go outside of town.

Ahaar – India The restaurant is located in the middle of the diamond area, a neighborhood where Bombay meets Tel Aviv. Ahaar is a paradise for vegetarians where for 9 euros you can enjoy an extensive buffet. Get ready to spice up your life with some sweet, sour and salty flavors that make eating a somewhat intense experience. The eclectic interior is a combination of older furniture, fierce TL-lights, western ornaments and traditional Indian wood carving. This restaurant is highly recommended for those who favor Asian food and aren’t afraid of a challenge.

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Lange Herentalsestraat 23 2018 Antwerp Area: Central Station +32(0)3 226 00 52 www.aahaar.com

Yamaya Santatsy - Japan This Japanese restaurant has been around since 1988 and has seen many of its competitors come and go. As an appetizer every client is offered a delicious bowl with pieces of cooked and marinated eggplant.

To keep it affordable we suggest you try their mouth watering lunch menus that

are ranging from 15 to 23 euros. Note that lunch is only available on weekdays between 12:00 and 14:00. The meals in this restaurant are truly a party for your taste buds and the effortless presentation of the dishes also spoils your eyes. Yamaya Santatsu stays loyal to its traditional kitchen and that is proven by the fact that most clients are Japanese.

Ossenmarkt 19, 2000 Antwerp Area: Historical Center (University) +32 (0)3 234 09 49 www.santatsu.be

Gringo’s Cantina - Mexico Anyone craving great Mexican food and refreshing cocktails should pay this place a visit immediately. Gringo’s Cantina lives up to its name; it is a small but cozy restaurant with colourful decorations and great service.

People run in from all over town to enjoy their quesadillas, chili con carne, tacos with salsa cheddar, guacamole and sour cream from the oven. It is always happy hour in this ‘cantina’ and it is not possible to make reservations here. This is no doubt the best Mexican place in town and so first come, first serve!

Ernest Van Dijckkaai 24 2000 Antwerp Area: Historical Center (River Scheldt) +32 (0)3 232 63 84

Cabo Verde – Cape Verde / Portugal In the ever changing district called ‘’t Eilandje’ you can always fall back on Cabo Verde, an authentic Cape Verdean and Portuguese restaurant. No need to book a flight, the lavish portions of food and wine

combined with a disco bar on the weekend take you to an exotic Island on the African Coast.

The friendly staff throws you into the Cape Verdean culture and makes sure you feel at home. Say ‘salud’ with grogue, an alcoholic beverage made from cane sugar. After that, make sure you try the Cape Verdeans favorite: a dish with baked potatoes accompanied by a meat stew and Venus clams drenched in a rich brown sauce. On Sundays you can feed your soul with Cachupa, a dish that originates from the period of slavery and consist of beans, corn, cabbage and fish or meat. Cabo Verde is culinary treasure island that you need to discover!

Marrakech – Morocco

the ones on display and they prepare it for you. As a side dish you can choose a salad or fries and with that you get a large bread basket accompanied by various sauces. If you are with many people you can choose for one big plate to share. For ten euros you can eat a hole in your stomach. In the Turnhoutsebaan and the Handelstraat there are various restaurants working with this system but if you are determined to get some ‘Marrakech vibes’ you should go to the restaurant that is named after this city.

A true fish eater you should pass by one of the Moroccan fish traders. The concept is simple: you name it and they bake it!

Basically you choose your favorite fish from

Statiestraat 12, 2018 Antwerp Area: Central Station +32 (0)3 213 39 90

Napelsstraat 116, 2000 Antwerp Area: ‘t Eilandje +32 (0)3 233 28 69 www.eetcafecaboverde.be

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Beni Falafel - Israel All Antwerpians agree that no one can top Beni Falafel. This is the best falafel place in town where you can drop by for a quick but healthy vegetarian snack. Also the tehina and humus have a reputation that keeps customers coming back for more. Don’t be fooled by the humble appearance of the restaurant as Beni Falafel brings people from all ages and origins together. Belgians, Indians, Jews and clients from all over the world come here to enjoy quality kosher food that is affordable with any budget!

Lange Leemstraat 188, 2018 Antwerp Buurt: Jewish Neighbourhood +32 (0)3 218 82 11

Oriental Delight - China Are you up for some authentic Chinese food?

Time to head downtown into Antwerp’s China town and pay Oriental Delight a visit.

This restaurant is always heavily crowded with Chinese families and was elected to be the best Asian restaurant in 2008. The number of possibilities on the menu is as big as the Chinese wall. The specialty of Oriental

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Delight is their ‘dim sum’ and is offered in all shapes and sizes. There are various prices but during lunch time you can get the most interesting menus. All prices and menus are available on their website

Appelmansstraat 18, 2018 Antwerp Area: Central Station +32 (0) 231 21 33 www.tarbouch.be

Van Wesenbekestraat 46-52 2060 Antwerp Area: Central Station +32 (0)3 232 15 83 www.orientaldelight.be

The historical and cultural wealth of Iran, is reflected in its food.

The Persian kitchen is notoriously tasty with its meaty dishes, rice, delicious spices and fresh naan-bread. Persepolis is run by an Iranian family that excels in creating authentic food and a warm ambiance. The restaurant staff members are known for their great hospitality and expertise on the Iranian kitchen. The hostess is always eager to give you some suggestions and offer an extra explanation. You can eat all types of grilled meat: chicken, veal and fish. Take a ride on the wild side and taste their lamb, it is truly scrumptious. Don’t be shy and let the hostess guide you into some appetizing flavors that will open your eyes forever. To top off this culinary adventure you must try their saffron ice-cream, it is like a dream!

Tarbouch - Lebanon The authenticity of a restaurant is often proven by the origin of its customers. In Tarbouch the majority of the clients are Lebanese and therefore there is no need to say more! This restaurant is on a mission to introduce everyone to traditional Lebanese cuisine. Feed your appetite with ten different types of bread for only 5 euros or take an introductory dish with various samples for 15 euros. Among vegetarians, humus and auberginepaste are very popular dishes.

Tarbouch is a hotspot to taste Lebanese culture and enjoy a real oriental ambience.

Persepolis - Iran

Hendrik Conscienceplein 9 2000 Antwerp Area: Historical Center +32 (0)3 213 14 34

Las Mañas If you are in need for a cozy place that emulates a restaurant on the coast of Spain, than off you go to Las Mañas. This place offers typical Spanish dishes such as tapas, pata negrameat, paella and mucho mas. If you ask nicely you can even order an entire baby goat and a pig. Las Mañas also has a list of qualitative wines that make you forget about everything around you. Their prices are a little higher but some serious finger licking is guaranteed in this restaurant. This is no address for a romantic gathering, as the cacophonous setting is comparable to that of a family reunion on a sunny afternoon.

Another specialty is that while you are nibbling away you can watch a football match and cheer along with the crowd.

Ankerrui 36, 2000 Antwerp Area: ‘t Eilandje +32 (0)3 231 72 20 www.lasmanas.com

Bife Churrasco – Argentina In this steakhouse you don’t eat ordinary meat, but the kind that has been freshly imported from Argentina. The overall look of the restaurant and the menu might at first glance not bedazzle you, but the high quality meat will. Your eyes will pop out of their sockets once you see how the meat is grilled on charcoal. This is carnivore paradise!

De Keyserlei 47, 2018 Antwerp Area: Central Station +32 (0)3 231 92 16 www.bife-churrasco.be

Muro - Turkey By now, we all had our share of pita and durum. The Turkish kitchen has a lot more to offer and is eager to share some of its most delicious secrets. At Muro you can enjoy a proper Turkish mezze or large chicken and lamb stews with a garden of vegetables. Everyone agrees that Muro’s success is thanks to a combination of enjoyable food and a good service. For very honest prices (mezze 8,5 euros, main dishes

between 12 to 18 euros) you get to enjoy some Turkish delights.

Verschansingstraat 61, 2000 Antwerp Area: South +32 (0)3 237 43 65 www.muroderman.be

Highlander - Scotland The one and only Scottish pub in Antwerp is a phenomenon that is unique in its kind. As it is located near the University of Antwerp, even the professors have made their way into the bar. During the day you can pass by for a snack or a lunch but that is insignificant really. Pivotal in the Highlander is their whisky collection. They sell here every whisky that has ever been created.

In addition to that, they celebrate all the Scottish holidays and for those brave hearts who really seek authenticity, there is even Haggis! Our preference goes to the whiskey and we are proud of it.

Pieter Van Hobokenstraat 2, 2000 Antwerp Area: Historical Center +32 (0)3 226 91 80 www.thewhiskyhouse.com/highlander

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Mamma Matrea – Latin America For delicious soul food and fresh ingredients this is the place to be! Mamma Matrea throws it all in the mix: Southern American flavors meet legendary cocktails and Latin vibes. Come dine here with your friends, savor a mouthful of beverages and let your senses guide you. On Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday it’s happy cocktail hour from 17:30-18:30. All cocktails are only 4 euro’s! On Wednesday evening Mamma offers all meals for 5 euro’s, so make sure to reserve before 18:30 as it is a full house.

Lange Nieuwstraat 13, 2000 Antwerp Area: Historical Center +32 (0)487 23 26 44 www.mamamatrea.com

Hajia Bintu Snacks Ghana The area of the Sint-Jansplein is a gem for those who enjoy exotic food. So many cultures come together here that there is always something new to discover. A great address to explore Ghana’ s finest

cuisine is Hajia Bintu Snacks. The interior might appear somewhat basic but that is compensated by an abundance in coziness and grand portions. All dishes are between 5 to 10 euros and there is an overwhelming number of options on the menu: fufu, baked bananas, grilled fish, various soups and salads. Take-away is also possible.

Muizenstraat 7, 2060 Antwerp Area: North +32 (0)3 297 46 51

Mezze Varelli - Greece The expression ‘good things come in small packages’ definitely applies to Mezze Varelli. This tiny Greek restaurant is hardly noticeable when you walk past the shore of the Scheldt and yet is one of the most delicious places in Antwerp. Even the interior design has something endearing and due to the half-open kitchen, you get the feeling that you raided someone’s living room. Going out in Mezze Varelli is best with a group of people, as this enables you to taste a little bit of everything. Greek tapas are a popular concept and therefore we

advise you to make a reservation in advance.

Especially in the summer this location is extra charming with its small terrace that has a view on the pier of Antwerp.

Plantinkaai 15, 2000 Antwerp Area: Historical Center (River Scheldt) +32 (0)3 485 88 82 www2.resto.be/varelli

Tjoung Tjoung - Thailand In an atrocious street nearby the Central Station you can find the best Thai restaurant of Antwerp. It is hidden in an area filled with dodgy gambling locations, luna parks and flashing neon lights. Nevertheless Tjoung Tjoung offers traditional Thai food at affordable prices. A popular dish is their coconut with curry soup. Just make sure to get there on time as the kitchen is only open till 21:00. This is an ideal location for anyone who wants to enjoy a yummy meal before running off to the UGC cinema which is only a few streets away.

Breydelstraat 16, 2018 Antwerp Area: Central Station +32 (0)3 232 54 29

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Sleep in style

About cool boutique hotels, comfy youth hostels and hospitable locals.

Pulcinella formerly known as Youth Hostel Antwerp The famous Belgian architect Vincent van Duysen built a super-cool youth hostel in the heart of the Antwerp fashion district.

It combines openness with a sense of security in a modern design. Pulcinella has an interior that few design hotels can match. It is still very new - the hostel only opened its doors in May 2011. The prices – including sheets and breakfast – are between € 19.50 and € 26.50. Surprisingly low for such a peach of design. The rooms for two, four or six each have their own bathroom.

Bogaardeplein 1, 2000 Antwerp +32 (0)3 234 03 14 www.vjh.be

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ABHostel backpackers for backpackers Tucked away behind the walls of a 120 year-old chocolate factory is Antwerp Backpackers Hostel, a small-scale initiative

by Bridget. The operator - herself a born traveller - aims to enable her guests to sample a homely, hearty atmosphere.

Starting at 19 euro, you have a bed, and can make use of free Internet, DVDs and lockers. The hostel has an extensive lounge and a completely fitted kitchen.

ABHostel is ideal for night-owls, as you can eat breakfast at any time of day. The hostel is in Borgerhout, one of the most colourful districts of Antwerp.

Kattenberg 110, 2140 Antwerp +32 (0) 473 57 01 66 www.abhostel.com

Scoutel international atmosphere Only a few minutes walking distance from Antwerp central station, you will find the Scoutel, the official youth stay of the Scouts and Guides Association of Flanders.

The colorful facade of Scoutel is the work of the artist Richard Woods and you will recognize it from a far distance.

Besides the typical dorms, Scoutel offers backpackers single rooms, each with their own bathroom and wifi included.

Prices - including sheets and breakfast are between 21,50 euro (for a bed in one of the dorms) and 31,30 euro (for a single room) per night. This also includes the one of a kind international atmosphere with scouts from all over the world.

Stoomstraat 3 -7, 2018 Antwerp +32 (0)3 226 46 06 www.scoutel.be

Boomerang Hostel Hostel Boomerang is based in a big and beautiful house, on a ten-minute walk from the old city center. Boomerang is a cosy place where everybody feels at home! The cheap prices, relaxing lounge room and friendly hosts Guy and Megumi make the hostel very popular.

Don’t expect too many rules here, but a relaxed atmosphere, a lot of space and nice music. The breakfast is great, but you can also use the kitchen to cook your own food.

If you want to stay in a hostel where you feel like being in your own house, this is the place to be!

The prices at Boomerang are very democratic! You can sleep in a dorm for €12 or a twin room for €30. Sheets are €2,5 and a continental buffet-breakfast costs €2,5 as wel.

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Lange Leemstraat 95, 2018 Antwerp +32 (03) 238 4782 boomeranghostel@hotmail.com www.boomeranghostel.be

1. Pulcinella 2. AB Hostel 3. Boomerang Hostel

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