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WELCOME TO ANTWERP
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THIS IS ANTWERP Stylish & confident. Vibrant & cosmopolitan. Heart-warming & relaxed.
Colophon This magazine is a publication of the city of Antwerp and Antwerp Tourism & Convention. It was edited with great care. Antwerp Tourism & Convention cannot be held responsible for printing errors or changes. No part of this publication may be used by third parties without prior written consent of Antwerp Tourism & Convention. None of the adresses mentioned in this magazine paid for their mentioning in it any way.
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“Antwerp has so much to offer, and nothing is far away. Everything you need is within walking distance.” On page 14 Tiany Kiriloff, lifestyle blogger and fashion designer sums it all up. Antwerp is a city with eye-catching architecture and countless cultural sights, with numerous shopping possibilities, spacious parks to just chill out and bars where the Belgian beers flow freely and until late into the night. We followed the No. 8 tram and mapped out an alternative tour through legendary squares and popular bars, past hidden shops, gardens and tunnels. We booked at Carrod’s, a living room restaurant and Publisher Antwerp Tourism & Convention – Annik Bogaert, Grote Markt 15 – BE2000 Antwerp Editors in chief Antwerp Tourism & Convention, Trendwolves Concept, Design & Illustration We Make Graphics Photography Ellen Goegebuer Sven Lambin Helen Van Den Poel Trendwolves Antwerp Tourism & Convention
tested the city’s most famous fries shops. Barista Isabelle gives us some tips for the 10 best coffee bars, fashion bloggers Lara, Tine and Helen share their best streetstyle photos and seasoned partygoers Caia, Sven, and Nele tell you the places to be in the evening and night-time. This is Antwerp is a guide to discovering the city with the benefit of inside knowledge. The magazine and the accompanying app are full of tips from people who know the city, and addresses to help you get the maximum out of your city trip. Don’t wait. Plan your trip now, so you can experience the spirit of the city for yourself.
Cartography Nick Van Hee Translation Alphatrad Print Flyer.eu
This Is Antwerp
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FASHION FORWARD 13
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WHAT’S COOKING?
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TRAM 8
Silsburg - Bolivarplaats Tram 8 connects Deurne and the preppy Zuid area. This tram crosses both the historic heart of Antwerp and the hip outskirts of town. We took a hop on, hop off tram ride, and compiled the best things to see at each stop.
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Bolivarplaats (Zuid)
Our cruise starts at the Bolivarplaats tram terminal, where the No. 8 stops just outside the new courthouse. This steel and glass construction is reminiscent of the Sydney Opera House. The large glass sections together with the spacious square in front of the building create a feeling of openness. Openness characterizes the neighbourhood around the Zuid area of Antwerp. Everything is broad and spacious here, and that aura is precisely what attracts many young people and creative start-ups. This neighbourhood which twenty years ago was totally run-down is now a beacon of trendiness. We breakfast on a soft boiled egg with soldiers or buttered toast and cappuccino in De Cafetaria, an easy place to quietly catch up on international magazines and today’s newspapers (although latter are only in Dutch). If you want, you can opt for a forget-me-not tea instead of the coffee. From De Cafetaria we walk towards the river Scheldt. We zigzag between apartment blocks to the Cockerillkaai, overlooking the Zuiderterras. Apart from a few brave runners on this winter morning, there is nobody about. It’s not always like that.
shopping paradise
Annually from Whitsun, the Gedempte Zuiderdokken or filled-in docks form the backdrop for a huge fair that lasts for six weeks: the Sinksenfoor. Apart from that, there are many activities. So be sure to check when you come here. From the docks we head towards the Museum of Contemporary Art Antwerp (M HKA). That museum is housed in an old grain silo in the Leuvenstraat. If you cross the car park between the Gedempte Zuiderdokken, Waalse Kaai and Vlaamse Kaai, you will find a whole host of taverns and delis on the Leopold De Waelplaats. Behind the tram stop, you will see the Royal Museum of Fine Arts in all its glory. Don’t jump back on the tram just yet. Take a short walk up part of the Volkstraat. At Funky Soul Potato they sell potatoes with surprising fillings. At number 59 - across the street - is Stone & Bone, a shop full of naturalia. A display full of hunting trophies sets the tone. Inside you will find mice skeletons, framed butterflies, dried sea urchins and much more besides. A few doors down is the brand new hot spot Coffee & Vinyl. The shop combines a wide range of quality music and arty farty walls with steaming beverages. Look through the huge record bazaar, or flop down in the sitting area with its (mini) library and warm yourself up with a Snoop Doggy (hot chocolate with Maltesers).
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Nationalestraat (Fashion District)
The No. 8 tram stops just before Modenatie, the epicenter of the Antwerp fashion district. Exuberantly dressed (fashion) students and shoppers with designer outfits add colour to the streets. An old school Macintosh, dozens of fashion-related book covers and an intriguing photo of Antwerp fashion hero Walter Van Beirendonck, will undoubtedly lure you into Copyright. This design book store is connected to the Fashion Museum, where Walter, one of Antwerp’s trailblazing designers, will be the subject of an exhibition until February 19. (For fans: his latest collections can be found at W.A.L.T.E.R., a remarkable shop just up the Sint-Antoniusstraat). In the Kammenstraat is the sugary shop window of the newly relocated Heaven’s Closet, in stark contrast to the somewhat dingy doorway of Fish & Chips, the streetwear shop on two floors. The street is a colourful patchwork of vintage shops, outlets, flagship stores and alternative boutiques. Starting to work up an appetite, so we visit the Lombardia, The green and pink eatery in the Lombardenvest, highly recommended by the Wall Street Journal. We are following in the footsteps of Sting, DJ Tiësto and the guys from Sigur Ros. We order a Spice Girl roll with a Pulp Friction juice. Spicy and fresh, the perfect combo.
Steenhouwersvest is almost the wild little brother of Kammenstraat. Alongside established fashion concepts, you still find indie clothing and accessory shops. Episode has been a reference for vintage clothing for years now, and Bazar Bizar is a must for Bohemian interiors. A few doors up the street is The Public Image. Watch out: you might walk past it. This tiny shop has a fine selection of textiles with graphics and illustrations by local designers. Business owner Nele selects the designs, her boyfriend Jeroen prints them on T-shirts, which Nele then sells. Next door Julie - Jude - Deffrasnes runs the concept store JudeLovesYou. Jude sells her handmade jewelry, Polaroid pendants and gothic rings here, as well as Japanese curios. The back room serves as exhibition space. Around the corner, in the Hoogstraat, we walk into Galerie De Zwarte Panter. In the 14th century, this was a small guest house for pilgrims, and in the ‘sixties it became a home for contemporary art. Painter Fred Bervoets and illustrator Jan Van Riet are regulars here. Photographs and paintings hang throughout the shop, the chapel, the back part of the house and the basement. In the courtyard you can imagine yourself in another era.
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Cut through to the Sint-Annatunnel, the pedestrian tunnel under the river Scheldt. To get there, you go down the retro wooden escalators, slow but charming. If you walk through the pedestrian corridor, then 572 metres later, you will emerge above water. From the left bank of the Scheldt, there is a fantastic view over the Antwerp skyline. Back on the right bank, walk along the Kloosterstraat, the Mecca for Antique and Kitsch. Just before entering the street, stop off at La Chascona, a coffee shop/second-hand goods shop. Everything in this bar that is not bolted down is for sale. For a winter picnic in the middle of a green urban oasis, you have to go to the overgrown Muntplein, which you are just unable to see from the terrace of La Chascona. Order your picnic at Ra 13 on the Kloosterstraat (check www.rapicnic.blogspot. com). Besides its delicious cuisine, this concept store offers 300 square metres of fashion, a book store and a music corner. We go for the soup of the day (beetroot and pumpkin) and settle down by the window. The place where you can watch everything happening - inside and out.
shopping paradise
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The stop in the Huidevettersstraat, near the Nationalestraat, is a great stop for discovering another slice of Antwerp. Right in the Quartier Latin, near de Wilde Zee and the old city centre. Start at the Bourlaschouwburg theatre. From the foyer you look out over the Komedieplaats, especially the bright window of the Louis Vuitton shop which is certain to attract your attention. Via the Schuttershofstraat we walk to Hopland, where the cakes at the counter of patisserie Vanhelmont are just crying out to be eaten. We buy a strawberry cake and take it to the edgy coffee bar Caffènation. Tastes great with a Cappuccino Star. Now we are heading for the Vreemdelingenmarkt in Theaterplein. In the weekend, the market-place in front of the
theatre is bustling. When we pass, at ten o’clock on Saturday morning, bringing pasta makers, candy stalls and butchers are selling their wares. After that, visit the Graanmarkt. Behind house number 13, you will discover Antwerp’s greatest treasures. Our last stop is the Botanical Garden, next to the Sint-Elisabeth Hospital. You can get in free via the Leopoldstraat. The garden, once the nursery of the School of Medicine, Chemistry and Botany, is still being used for the advancement of science. Definitely a place to fill your lungs with fresh air. Stroll down the Leopoldstraat, and you come to the Mechelseplein square. This is where we nip back on the tram.
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Guldenvliesstraat (Zurenborg)
Before you know it, you walk into Café Stanny at the Guldenvliesstraat stop in the Zurenborg District. A modern, brown pub with graphic novels, cutting edge music and traditional dishes of the day, the way only Flemish mothers still make them today. A number of local beers are on tap. Here, you can have a relaxed chat with young people from Zurenborg. Behind the sansevierias, the view from Café Stanny looks out onto the railway viaduct. If you walk under the railway, you will see a different side of Antwerp. A century ago, there were still farms here amid pastures, which made way for Art Deco palaces, Art Nouveau houses and modernist villas. Do not miss out on the architectural splendour of the Cogels-Osylei. The chic avenue leads to the Tramplaats where trams and buses spend the night. They say that you eat the best burgers in the city here at De Burgerij at the end of the street. For affordable cocktails, head for the Vertigo jazz bar. With a little luck, you can time your arrival for a concert. Check out the programme on www.cafevertigo.be.
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Along the Draakstraat, you will see Dageraadplaats, which almost looks like a village square with a very friendly vibe. Children play on the playground or the basketball court, mothers chat and the men drink a nice cool beer at one of the many terraces. After sunset, the artificial starry sky spreads some Christmas spirit all year round. Look for a bright blue door and go inside Den Overvloed, a restaurant with both Flemish and world cuisine on the menu. While we wait for our meal, we tuck into delicious rolls with fresh garlic butter. The restaurant is almost always packed, but you don’t need to book before hand. If there is no table free, you get a teddy bear to keep you company while you wait in Café ‘t Zeezicht, on the bottom floor of the building. You drink an aperitif there, and as soon as a table is free, your bear will be called out. Café ‘t Zeezicht is also the ideal place for rounding off the evening (or night, because the bar is open until very late. Locals come in until the early hours to drink Green Duvels, a hard-to-find variant of the famous Belgian beer Duvel.
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phoneography
RETRO
We crossed Antwerp with the Instagram iPhone app at the ready. A free iPhone application that allows you to take photos fast. You can add some atmosphere or depth by choosing a filter, and then share your photos with an enthusiastic community of iGers. Instagram is far from being the only photo app for smartphones. There are dozens of tools for quickly improving or sharing photos. A selection:
With the iPhone app Hipstamatic (€ 1.59), it looks like you have taken your photo an old-fashioned plastic camera. Hipstamatic gives a fun lomo-effect, without having to mess about with lenses, film rolls or flashes. The free application Lightbox is the Android equivalent of Instagram and Hipstamatic. The idea is the same, only the filters are slightly different: you can record memories, add Lomo, Retro or HDR effects, and afterwards easily share them on Facebook, Twitter and Tumblr. The same applies to Fx Camera. Here you can see photos with Fisheye or Warhol effects.
PANORAMA The fully automated capture system Dermandar (€ 1.59) makes 360° panoramas really easy for iPhone owners. Android users can record beautiful cityscapes seamlessly with the free apps Camera 360 or Photaf Panorama. A sensor keeps track of which angle you take the photos from and makes corrections automatically.
Want to have a go yourself? Use the tag #thisisantwerp. The best snapshots will be compiled into the next edition.
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Free wifi 22b - Zoet, zout en zo Sint-Vincentiusstraat 22b (2018 Antwerp) ‘t Onschuldig Schaep Justitiestraat 85 (2018 Antwerp) ’t Werkhuys Zegelstraat 13 (2140 Borgerhout) Appelmans Papenstraatje 1 (2000 Antwerp) Banks Steenhouwersvest 55 (2000 Antwerp) Bar Leon Reuzenstraat 23 (2140 Borgerhout) Berlin Kleine Markt 1 (2000 Antwerp) Brasserie Triton Groot Hagelkruis 187 (2030 Antwerp) Café Centrum Canadalaan 109 (2030 Antwerp) Café den Draak Draakplaats 1 (2018 Antwerp) Crown Plaza Antwerpen Gerard Le Grellelaan 110 (2020 Antwerp) De Cafetaria Montignystraat 21 (2018 Antwerp) De Groote Witte Arend Reyndersstraat 18 (2000 Antwerp)
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De Kaai Rijnkaai 94 (2000 Antwerp) De Zeespreeuw Oude Leeuwenrui 52 (2000 Antwerp) Falstaff Oude Vaartplaats 2 (2000 Antwerp) Hotel Industrie Emiel Banningstraat 52 (2000 Antwerp) Irish Times Pub Grote Markt 52 (2000 Antwerp) King Kong Volkstraat 58 (2000 Antwerp) McDonald’s Groenplaats 17 (2000 Antwerp) Teniersplaats 4 (2000 Antwerp) De Keyserlei 58 (2018 Antwerp) NonSoloTè Riemstraat 2 (2000 Antwerp) Park Inn Astrid Hotel Koningin Astridplein 14 (2000 Antwerp) Permeke De Coninckplein 26 (2060 Antwerp) Quick Koningin Astridplein 40 (2018 Antwerp) De Keyserlei 22 (2018 Antwerp) Groenendaallaan 412 (2030 Antwerp) Grote Steenweg 462 (2600 Berchem) Ramada Hotel Desguinlei 94 (2018 Antwerp) Revista Karel Rogierstraat 47 (2000 Antwerp)
Rode Zeven Sint-Jansplein 7 (2060 Antwerp) Scheldezicht Sint-Jansvliet 10 (2000 Antwerp) Storm Hanzestedenplaats 5 (2000 Antwerp) Studiant Pieter v. Hobokenstraat 25 (2000 Antwerp) Terminus Franklin Rooseveltplaats 9 (2060 Antwerp) The Black Amerikalei 133 (2018 Antwerp) The Foodmaker De Keyserlei 52 (2000 Antwerp) Meir 10 (2000 Antwerp) Bolivarplaats 2 (2000 Antwerp) The Glorious De Burburestraat 4 (2000 Antwerp) Via Via Reiscafé Wolstraat 43 (2000 Antwerp) Wok A Way Groendalstraat 14 (2000 Antwerp) Yellow Submarine Falconplein 51 (2000 Antwerp)
Antwerp FASHION-FORWARD
fashion-forward
According to the New York Times, Antwerp is an underrated fashion paradise. “A place where one finds corners or unusual idiosyncrasy and surprise,” the newspaper said. We asked some local fashionistas about the ins and outs.
Who is Tiany Kiriloff? Stylist, blogger, TV presenter and editor. Designer of her own capsule collection at Vero Moda and author of the book “Kirilove”. Tiany Kiriloff is a thoroughbred fashionista. In her (Dutch-language) TV appearances, she speaks about new neighbourhoods, shops and brands, and talks to designers and trendsetters. On Belmodo.tv, her own online fashion magazine, she presents fashion finds along with two of her fellow bloggers. www.belmodo.tv
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“Lots of fashion, very close together” What is your relationship with Antwerp? “I don’t live in Antwerp, but my life has been centred here for over twenty years. Ever since I was thirteen and I moved from Venezuela to Belgium, I have spent my days here. I used to go to school in Antwerp, now I work there. The Belmodo headquarters is in Berchem, less than ten minutes by tram from the city centre. I know Antwerp inside out. I have walked round all the shops and boutiques, shot a lot of reports and gone to a lot of parties there.” “As a fashion editor and blogger, I think it is very important to do field research, to pound the streets. There is a lot on the Internet, but if you sit in the office all day, you don’t learn anything. Meanwhile I have a sort of Sixth Sense about talent spotting. Usually it starts with a sort of spark, a little discovery, and then I follow that line of investigation. I see someone walk by, go into a new store or hear things from a designer. Sometimes I am
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very impressed by someone at a Fashion academy show and then I follow that lead. Then you soon see how that person develops.” Many international magazines are singing the praises of Antwerp as a fashion city. Are they right? “Absolutely, although Antwerp is a rather atypical city. It has a compact centre and is actually more like a village. The sheer scale is not comparable to traditional fashion cities. Paris or London are huge by comparison. Antwerp is very much a city in a nutshell. You will find everything, or almost, in a very small area. Almost all the good shops are within walking distance of each other.” “In terms of brands too, Antwerp is a real melting pot. The arrival of some retail concepts has expanded the range of brands available enormously in recent years. High-end concept stores like Ra 13 and multibrand stores like Renaissance
bring together international talent under one roof. You’ll find a unique selection of brands exclusive to Belgium.” Which are the streets to watch? “Things are always changing in Nationalestraat. New retail concepts are popping up, although some disappear just as fast. The same applies to Steenhouwersvest, a shopping street between the famous pedestrian tunnel and the Friday Market. Here too, shops change quite regularly. Most businesses are fairly recent, I think that the vintage shop Episode has been here the longest. Kammenstraat, which was until recently the reference for everything that was trendy, is now more mainstream. Half of the street is taken up with jeans brands and outlets. The trendsetting and innovative stuff is gone.” “In Antwerp Noord, near Dam, a lot is going on these days. New businesses are springing up like mushrooms. There is an
entrepreneurial vibe, you see creativity just bubbling away everywhere. In fine weather many young families go out for a walk in the vast Park Spoor Noord. I enjoy spending time there myself. In that area, you’ll find original restaurants including like De Caravan, at Damplein 17, but actually it’s all really nice. It strikes me as a difficult area for independent retailers though. Making a living out of a small shop here can’t be easy. There is not really enough footfall. You will find a lot of pop-up shops there. Every time you come here, something has changed.”
Tiany’s hotspots
fashion: Graanmarkt 13 (Graanmarkt 13) designer heels: Coccodrillo (Schuttershofstraat 9) vintage: Viar (Kloosterstraat 65) flowers: Baltimore (Augustijnenstraat 35) beauty goodies: Cosmeticary (Nieuwe Gaanderij - Huidevetterstraat 38) perfume: Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (Augustijnstraat 39) rummage sale: in Zurenborg, in Cogels Osylei, Tramplein and Draakplaats
fashion-forward
latte: Vitrin (Marnixplaats 12) or Cafématic (Vleminckveld 4) pastrami sandwich: Caffè Internazionale (Volkstraat 21) hamburgers: De Burgerij (Tramplein 2) or Wattman (Tramplein 3) cocktails: Café Homey (Sint Paulusplaats 24)
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Fashion is in the streets Streetstyle bloggers Helen, Lara and Tine of Antwerpen Streetstyle share their best shots and hottest spots
Antwerpen Street Style On their streetstyle blog, twin sisters Helen and Tine Van den Poel together with Lara Richir tell us what is going on in the Antwerp fashion scene. Unlike other local fashion blogs, the girls are not really focused on themselves. They do not post their own outfits or bargains they have found. They see themselves as reporters photographing and interviewing people on the street. In addition, they also write brief (photo) reports of events in and around Antwerp. “That ranges from swapping nights and block parties to exclusive previews,” says Helen, the founder of the blog. “But it does not have to be all about fashion. You will find us at flea markets in Berchem or Borgerhout too.” When they go into the city, the girls always have a notebook and camera to record “unique looks”. Helen: “We look for people who stand out from the crowd in some way. Sometimes they are fashion students, sometimes punks or skaters. Sometimes just a girl with a black outfit and bright red lipstick. All three of us come up with different styles. So Helen likes vintage and goes for the total look. I look more
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at the details. A special bag, or a nice shirt,” says Lara Richir, at just 15 the youngest of the three. What is striking: there are quite a lot of foreigners on the blog. Often they are fashion students, but sometimes tourists too. “They are often innovative, and dress according to other standards. That is something that hits you,” said Lara. www.antwerpenstreetstyle.com
Top Spots Helen, Tine and Lara take photos all over Antwerp, but still have some favourite spots. These places are teeming with interesting figures. Meir, this broad shopping street is always packed. Kloosterstraat, a street full of vintage design and fashion. Especially on Sunday, this is a great place for beautiful people because then all the other shops in the city centre are closed. In the vicinity of vintage shops like Think Twice in Kammenstraat or Episode in the Steenhouwersvest. Nationalestraat and all the little streets around the Modenatie, the hub of Antwerp fashion. Chances are you will be rubbing shoulders with students of the Fashion Academy here. From left to right Students June & Joni, Albert Park Girl on bicycle, Ijzerenwaag Ballet dancers Yuki (22) and Boris (20), Groenplaats Students Livia & Ana, Meir Model Orelie, Meir Fashion students Emmanuel (22) and Virginia (25), Kloosterstraat
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THE BEST COFFEE IN TOWN Coffee is booming in Antwerp. A new generation of black coffee drinkers is emerging and new bars are springing up like mushrooms. Hardcore barista Isabelle - Isa - Verschraegen, takes us on a lightning tour of the ten hottest coffee spots. Our coffee tour starts in the Caffènation in Hopland, the most celebrated coffee bar in the city and also Isabelle’s second home. This is where she learned the tricks of the trade three years ago, and she is still working there. Today is her day off, so we find her at the bar with a black filter coffee. She speaks enthusiastically about her work as a barista, the national slow brew championships and the burgeoning Antwerp coffee culture, the reason why she moved from Ghent to Antwerp two years ago. “I was bitten by the bug, and I was able to hone my coffee-making skills at the Caffènation, which was one of the most progressive bars at that time.” According to Isabelle, this place remains a focal point of Antwerp’s coffee scene. “The bar is usually packed. There are many baristas working here and you can
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easily get in and out. Meanwhile, the Caffènation has acquired its own distillery, and they supply coffee beans under their own brand name to numerous cafés and restaurants in town.”
Idealists “Basically you have two types of coffee bars,” says Isabelle. “You have businesses that focus on coffee and you have places with a shared focus, which besides coffee bake cakes, make fruit juices or sell LPs. You can tell that from their products. Coffee businesses in the first category pay a great deal of attention to the coffeemaking process and seek a full flavour. They are a bit idealistic, and want to show where the coffee actually comes from. In places like that, you learn what good coffee should taste like.”
You can see that transparency particularly at Normo, an indie business where the beans are roasted on the spot. When we arrive at Normo, we are just in time to see a load of Kenyan raw beans disappearing into a large machine. Operator Jens Oris keeps a watchful eye on the roasting process via his Macbook, which he connected himself to an old coffee roaster. “At Normo, you see how coffee is made. So at least you know what’s in your cup. That is the kind of transparency I am trying to achieve at “Zwart”, my own business,” says Isa. Zwart, a cool coffee bar on De Coninckplein, is the brainchild of Isabelle and Roeland Lenaerts. Both baristas combine their job in the Caffènation with their new project. They have alternating shifts and take it in turns
what’s up
to work in the coffee bar. Behind the bar at Zwart, they experiment with beans, techniques and equipment. They only serve pure coffee and tea. Totally black. “You won’t find any lattes or cappuccinos here. But a lot of different varieties of coffee from all over the world.”
advance how it will actually turn out. That’s what makes it fun. It makes sure that the coffee scene here is constantly changing. Next month there will probably be another new bar.”
Start-ups Finally Isabelle takes us to Broer Bretel, a newcomer on ‘t Eilandje. The bar has recently opened and the neighbourhood is still expanding fast, but there’s already a pleasant bustle about the place. Broer Toon is handling one order after another, and manages to keep up with the pace while chatting with everyone in turn. A cool guy, because Toon has only been in the business for a year. Last summer, he went on a crash course at Caffènation and immediately opened his own business. “That’s the way it goes,” says Isabelle. “Many young people in Antwerp are getting a taste for coffee, doing an intensive barista course, and then moving on. Some of my friends are involved in setting up their own business. Very exciting, because you never know in
Barista Isabelle learned her trade at Caffènation. After three years in the coffee business, in December 2011 along with her colleague Roeland, she opened her own coffee shop under the name Zwart (translated: “black”).
HOT SHOTS These are the places where you get the best coffee, whether or not it is roasted in-house.
1. Caffènation Hopland 46, 2000 Antwerp, Quartier Latin
-------------------------------------“One Drug, One Café, One Caffènation” is the slogan of Caffènation. Once over the threshold, you almost stumble over the sacks of house blend coffee. Inside is a pleasant, no-nonsense atmosphere, typical of a business that has nothing more to prove. The music is slightly harder and both the service and the interior have a rough edge. (What to think of a larger than life image of Cher Guevara (this is not a typo) on the wall. The Caffènation has been in business for about 8 years and is like the father of all Antwerp coffee bars. Most coffees come from their own roasting business, which also supplies many other bars and restaurants in Antwerp. Furthermore almost all local baristas made their first espresso here. If you want to take home some typical Antwerp coffee, choose from a variety of bags of the bar’s own coffee beans.
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2. Zwart
3. Normo
De Coninckplein 21, 2060 Antwerp, Noord
Minderbroedersrui 30, 2000 Antwerp, Historic city centre
-------------------------------------Zwart is a brand new, independent coffee bar with a list packed with quality coffee and tea in its purest form: plain black. If you want milk or honey, whipped cream or caramel, then you’ve come to the wrong place. The coffee menu is structured like a wine list in a good restaurant. The types of beans are ranked and priced according to taste and region. An experienced barista explains and helps customers make their choice. Besides a place to sample coffee, Zwart is also a coffee lab. Founders Isabelle and Roeland - both baristas at Caffènation want to experiment with new flavours, products and coffee-making techniques. For example, they organize homebrew, to familiarise people with the technical side of coffee. Zwart lies north of the Central Station, in an up-and-coming area known for new design and retail concepts.
-------------------------------------At Normo, the jute sacks of raw coffee beans are displayed on pallets on the floor. Owner Jens Oris has put an authentic coffee roaster in the middle of his business, and roasts the beans during normal business hours. This “micro roastery” makes Normo perhaps the most independent coffee business in the city. Normo - formerly Bar Choq - has only moved a few doors away, and Jens tried to keep the open, unpretentious atmosphere in his new premises. The walls remain white, the floors unpolished, just like the bar. Good coffee doesn’t need any fancy trimmings. On the coffee list, there are four slow brew coffees, as well as a number of unconventional varieties like “flunispeculapam” and the “anti-smarti”.
4. Broer Bretel Nassaustraat 7, 2000 Antwerp, t’Eilandje
-------------------------------------Two brothers wearing braces serve great coffee and full-flavoured tea. The homemade Great Granny Ice Tea (with parsley!) comes highly recommended. On the wall, there are Polaroid photos of the nicest customers. Broer Bretel is the ideal place to talk quietly after a visit to the MAS museum.
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COFFEE & ...These establishments are not limited to coffee or tea. Also on the menu: juices, cakes, furniture or records.
5. La Chascona Oever 18, 2000 Antwerp
-------------------------------------La Chascona sells vintage furniture besides coffee, tea and homemade cakes. Almost everything in the shop is for sale, though it does not mean that you really can buy everything. Owner Dieter applies a rather special price policy. Furniture that he would rather keep for himself has an exorbitant price tag.
6. Mademoiselle Moustache Paardenmarkt 21, 2000 Antwerp.
-------------------------------------You immediately feel at home in this recently opened, angular shop. Mademoiselle Moustache serves not only coffee, but also homemade shakes, soups and sandwiches at her counter.
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7. Starfish & Coffee
10. De Dikke Kat
Bresstraat 9, 2018 Antwerp, Zuid
Kasteelpleinstraat 26, 2000 Antwerp, Zuid
-------------------------------------Looking for a cosy place in the shadow of “den Bell”? At Starfish & Coffee, owner Katja bakes delicious crumbles, cakes and “chocolate tarts”. Try the homemade Ginger Tea too.
-------------------------------------De Dikke Kat is a coffee bar and exhibition space under one roof with limited but original menu and walls full of beautiful things to see. Try a “kabouter (gnome)” or a “honey poppie” while you peruse the photographs, paintings and sculptures on display here.
8. Coffee & Vinyl Volkstraat 45, 2000 Antwerp, Zuid
-------------------------------------This stately mansion with a coffee lounge at the front and a record bazaar at the rear gives the drinks menu a rock’n’roll touch. Try a Flat Barry White (double shot cappuccino) or a Snoop Doggy (chocolate milk with Maltesers and honey).
9. Revista Karel Rogierstraat 47, 2000 Antwerp, Zuid
-------------------------------------Revista combines coffee, free wifi and a whole array of international magazines and newspapers, the holy trinity for bloggers and fashion students. Revista also offers soups and sandwiches, so you can easily spend a whole day there.
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Deurne Sportpaleis
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Caffènation
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Zwart
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Normo
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Broer Bretel
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Hopland 46, 2000 Antwerp, Quartier Latin
De Coninckplein 21, 2060 Antwerp, Noord
Minderbroedersrui 30, 2000 Antwerp, Historic city centre
Nassaustraat 7, 2000 Antwerp, t’Eilandje 5
La Chascona Oever 18, 2000 Antwerp
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Paardenmarkt 21, 2000 Antwerp.
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Starfish & Coffee
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Coffee & Vinyl
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Revista
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De Dikke Kat
10 8 9
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Mademoiselle Moustache
Antwerp Borgerh Deurne
Bresstraat 9, 2018 Antwerp, Zuid
Volkstraat 45, 2000 Antwerp, Zuid
Karel Rogierstraat 47, 2000 Antwerp, Zuid
Kasteelpleinstraat 26, 2000 Antwerp, Zuid
Antwerpen Borgerhout Deurne
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WINE & DINE with the locals A nice dinner at an affordable price? Yes, it is possible. At these addresses you come in, sit down at a table and eat whatever is on offer.
WHATS COOKING? It is just past six when we turn up - half an hour early - at the Kavka youth centre. Some boys in the courtyard lead us into the reception room, a warm room decorated by the Lilith theatre collective. Because fewer people are expected tonight, the food will be served here soon. The dining room is a cosy place with a mixed bag of hunting trophies and funky accessories. Some discarded white-painted doors, complete with handles and hinges, are being used as a large table. Our fellow diners arrive in dribs and drabs. Three Dutch girls who are studying in Antwerp, a few volunteers and friends from Kavka and a few members of a jazz band who will be performing later in the concert room. About 7 p.m. Bruno - the cook on duty - serves dinner. For five euros, we choose between rice and sweet and sour
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pork or the vegetarian alternative nasi goreng. Simple, but tasty. Especially in combination with a cold beer and good conversation. The atmosphere around the table is relaxed. There is some chat about rehearsals and the other activities that evening. Note: from December to March, Kavka’s volunteer chefs take a break from their duties. Only in the spring do the Kavkasianen take up their ladles again for the next round. The exact date is not fixed but is announced nearer the time on kavka.be. No worries, even in Scheld’apen, food is cooked regularly for people. Every Friday they serve a vegetarian menu at 4 euro. A party invariably comes after the meal. Sometimes the evening is graced by a DJ, sometimes by a fashion show by the
Antwerp Fashion Academy. It is advisable to check on scheldapen.be, because occasionally they are closed on Friday. In both kitchens, the following principles apply: first come, first served. Latecomers may end up scraping out the pots.
wine & dine
LIVING ROOM RESTAURANT Carrod’s is probably the city’s smallest restaurant. As we arrive about eight p.m., cook and hostess Stephanie awaits us in the doorway. Before we have had time to take off our jackets, our glasses are already filled. Stephanie, just 26, enjoys cooking and likes people around her. Although she studied painting, it struck her as being more fun to start a restaurant. She received a chef’s diploma and has now converted her living room, ably assisted by her father. On the facade, the Carrod’s name, a contraction of the upmarket Harrod’s department store and simple and tasty carrots. Approximately one year after its opening, the restaurant is pleasantly full almost every night. Both local residents and friends, as well as people attending a performance at De Roma, an authentic theatre in Borgerhout, find their way to her dining room. Stephanie sometimes caters for tourists, which is remarkable because not many tourists have discovered this multicultural neighbourhood yet. “The fact that the AB hostel is just around
the corner explains a lot, of course. But there are also many people who find my restaurant online. That suits me fine. The more, the merrier!” laughs Stephanie. “Sometimes the dining room is full but if the guests don’t mind the pots and pans on the table, I can free up some extra space in the kitchen.” Every few days Stephanie announces a new menu on her Facebook page. Today, for 15 euro, you get a homemade beef tartare, a fish curry and a piece of chocolate-pear tart for dessert. “How I would define my cuisine? Gosh, FrancoBelgian with worldwide influences. I always cook what I like, or what looks good in the store. I try to use a lot of regional products, as Bolleke De Koninck beer and Filet d’Anvers. “ Besides the daily menu, Stephanie also offers sampling formulas for 25 and 35 euro. If you have specific wishes, all you have to do is send her an e-mail (info@carrods.be). Carrod’s is only closed on Sundays. Make a reservation is the message, because the red and white check tablecloth tables are being filled faster and faster.
Carrod’s Krugerplein 18, 2140 Borgerhout www.carrods.be
ANTWERP ILLUSTRATED Arty walls, sketchy nights & 24-hour comic books
Mekanik The largest comic shop in the world Mekanik Sint-Jacobsmarkt 27, 2000 Antwerp
www.mekanikstrip.be -------------------------------------Mekanik is known as the cartoon strip mecca of Antwerp and its surroundings. Crawling down the wall is a real-life Spiderman, while The Joker looks at you menacingly from behind the window. American comics are clearly the specialty of the house (they import a new batch every week), though assistant Sara boasts that Mekanik has all the Dutch-language titles on the market in stock too. Sara makes a point of always giving personal recommendations. Clever and innovative work is flagged with white labels with her own opinion, so that strip fans can find their way around less obvious works. The shelves also contain mangas and a selection of English and French language
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cartoon strips. At the front of the shop you will find a huge quantity of curiosities and gadgets. Bestsellers are Warcraft shirts and miniature smurfs. Remember to take the stairs to the exhibition floor, where the content is changed regularly. In the permanent exhibition “Wall of Fame� you will find the cream of the Antwerp comic scene in 15 frames and the same number of illustrations. And - very cool - the originals are all for sale at affordable prices.
Antwerp illustrated
TSETSE comic strips and picture books Tsetse Kronenburgstraat 72, 2000 Antwerp
www.tsetsetrips.com -------------------------------------Right opposite the Tropical Institute (Antwerp is the place to be vaccinated before visiting the tropics) is the Tsetse comic shop. A small but very nice shop. Above the entrance door is an enlarged (TseTse) fly, a nice gimmick by owner Tim. Tsetse focuses on European comics for adults. Tsetse also sells children’s books, mangas and toys, both new and second hand. Tim will gladly advise you.
MUURVAST art on the wall Eight comic strip artists, illustrators and cartoonists produced monumental scenes on as many city walls. Besides Flemish heroes like Spike & Suzy, Kiekeboe and Jommeke, there are walls with cult drawings and historical scenes. A must is the jazzwall by Philip Paquet in the Leopold De Waelstraat, near Jazz Café Hopper. In the spring of 2012, the award-winning
Belgian comic strip artist Brecht Evens will reveal his own wall. For the exact date and location you can go to the Town Hall Shop (Stadswinkel) or comic strip specialist Mekanik. At the same places you find a “Muurvast” city guide to murals for 3 euros.
SKETCH THURSDAYS live illustrations Bar Nadar Ernest van Dijckkaai 19-20, 2000 Antwerp last Thursday of the month, 19.30 - 23.00
www.sketchthursdays.blogspot.com -------------------------------------Bar Nadar, a gallery café, came up recently with a brand new concept. Every last Thursday of the month, a dozen Antwerp artists meet at Ernest van Dijckkaai. Working in pencil or pen, they get down to work live, hanging the finished sketches on the wall and selling them directly to the public. It is not possible to categorise the participants. You will bump into street artists, comic strip talents and tattoo artists. Cartoonist Sacha Eckes (who previously launched Sketch Thursday in San Francisco) and illustrator Sam de Buysscher took the initiative. They want the bridge the gap between artists and their audiences.
THE BRIES SPACE arty living room Bries Space Lange Scholierstraat 10, 2060 Antwerp
www.bries.be/space -------------------------------------The Bries Space is a creative lab where visual artists - painters, graphic artists, illustrators, cartoonists and animation artists - are free to do their ‘thing’. It is a place for exhibitions, workshops, parties and ready-made (but culturally appropriate) gift shops. The cartoon strip occupies an important place on the bill, because the space is an extension of Bries, a publisher of comics and graphic books. In September 2011 the Space organized a 24-hour Comics Day where nine artists were given 24 hours to dream up and draw a 24-page story. Check the website for updates.
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A PARTY AFFAIR
ANTWERP BY NIGHT Check out the free This is Antwerp app for the latest events and hot spots.
BAR Hopper
bar Leopold De Waelstraat 2, 2000 Antwerp www.cafehopper.be Café Hopper is one of Antwerp’s most famous jazz cafés. Here, students at the Conservatoire share the stage with well-established names. On Sunday and Monday night there are live sessions. In the jazz season - which runs from October to April - there are also concerts on the first and third Tuesday of the month. On
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those days, there is an admission charge to pay. While you’re there, order a ‘demidemi’, a white wine mixed with Spanish sparkling wine, and quietly enjoy the concert. Chances also are that you will bump into a Flemish celebrity too. Guitart
bar Bresstraat 10, 2018 Antwerp The cosy music café Guitart is the new hotspot for those with musical talent. It is no coincidence that the bar is next to the Strings and Things music shop. Twice a month, up-and-coming artists exhibit their work here. Every fortnight, there is a concert on Thursday. Chill in the ‘seventies decor, order a beer or a glass of cava and enjoy the band. Plaza Real / Pekfabriek
bar / party venue Kattenberg 89, 2140 Borgerhout Plaza Real has close ties with the local music scene. The bar is run by Klaas Janzoons, the violinist of the famous rock band dEUS. The other band members are regular guests. Another advantage of the
cafe is the hip party location behind it. The “Pekfabriek” always guarantees great parties. Unfortunately, Pekfabriek hardly does any promotion, and events are only announced on the Facebook page of Plaza Real. Another tip: the name “Pekfabriek” (tar factory) is not something that was just plucked out of thin air. Don’t wear white shoes or light-coloured pants. The floor always leaves black marks, and that is something you can do without. Bar Leon
bar / party venue Reuzenstraat 23, 2140 Borgerhout www.barleon.be After a concert or a movie in De Roma, you can just chill in Bar Leon, a favourite watering-hole in Borgerhout and beyond. On Thursday and Sunday it is even cosier. Between six and half past nine you can eat there too. For an affordable price (average 10 euro) you can get one of the two daily specials. (The cook is a vegetarian himself, so there is always a vegetarian alternative). Every month, a hairdresser also drops in. That day, she
nightlife
cuts hair for 15 euro. Will you be having your hair done? In that case, you also get to choose the music, because you get to play with the owners’ iPod, although in the evening occasionally the professionals take over with live gigs or DJ sites. Events and menus are announced on Facebook. Nele Moens (24) runs The Public Image, her own T-Shirt Shop For hiphop, rock and parties, go to Venue 219 in Troonplaats. Venue 219
Troonplaats 4, 2018 Antwerp www.venue219.be
CLUBS Kavka
Oudaan, 2000 Antwerp www.kavka.be Kavka has something for everyone. It is a party palace in the heart of the city, as well as a place for young musical talent spotting. Occasionally there are indie gigs, jam sessions, stage plays, circus acts or mc-battles. And weather permitting, the atmosphere moves out into the spacious, graffiti-decorate courtyard. Here you can attend (private) performances in the soundproof rehearsal rooms, watch plays in the old classrooms and even mediumsized concerts in the biggest room. Keep tabs on the upcoming programme. Stereo Six
“De Venue” or “Bar 219” is pretty much my local pub, so I meet all my friends there. The beers cost 1.80 euro, which is also affordable.”
Luikstraat 6, 2000 Antwerp Sat (23.00 – …) www.stereosushi.be On Saturday night, the basement of the Velvet Lounge is taken over by international DJs. In Stereo Six - formerly known as Stereo Sushi, and even before
that as Club Geluk - you can opt for funky house music with a “touch of Soul”. Admission is only 10 euro. Petrol Club D’Herbouvillekaai 25, 2020 Antwerp Fri, Sat + concert days Entry around € 10 www.petrolclub.be Hire a bike, take a taxi or walk the two kilometres from the city centre to the d’Herbouvillekaai. You won’t regret it. Petrol features a heady mix of established and young, local talent. Petrol is now a rock club, and a little later it is an electro temple. The program is an eclectic mishmash. Reggae, electro, rock, drum’n’bass, funk, techno, hiphop and dubstep are mixed in with art, literature and multimedia. Scheld’apen
Entry around € 5, sometimes free www.scheldapen.be Scheld’apen is the natural habitat of creative and musical Antwerp. They call themselves the “ Temple of European
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Culture “, and they have good reason to make the claim. On Friday, the VolxkeukenDeluxe serves vegetarian meals (at 4 euro per plate) with nightly entertainment. On other nights you can go here for jazz jams, electro documentaries and noise concerts. Note: until Friday, February 3,Scheld’apen is in hibernation. Check out the Calendar or the This is Antwerp app for new activities. Sven Mes organizer F / S / A / R, DJ Chubbee Bee www.facebook.com/kelly.splinter www.facebook.com/pages/CreepStreet/165802464240
“The Kelly Splinter parties are well known in Antwerp. They take place in the most diverse locations. Sometimes in strip bars and sometimes discos. On the bill, you can always discover emerging artists, such as the obscure collective Crappy Birthdays. Creep Street in Scheld’apen is a quite different proposition. These squat parties are underground and alternative with dubstep and broken house.”
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FANCY PARTY CONCEPTS & UNDERGROUND CONCERTS F/S/A/R/
Flying Saucers Are Real pop-up-club www.fsar.be “Flying Saucers Are Real” is a pop-up-club for believers (at least, that’s what the organisers say: “They are out there. Very soon, very near. And there will be no way back.) Last winter, F / S / A / R / opened in an abandoned office building, near Berchem Station. In the summer they did a three month residence in het Steen. Since September, the “paharties” have gone mobile again, but the party locations are carefully chosen. Ranging from the Museum Aan de Stroom to Muziekclub Petrol, with the occasional excursion abroad (Ibiza!). On the programme: post
punk dance, eclectronica, glitchhop and power disco, by both Belgian and international DJs and bands. Kissinger
pop-up club www.kissinger.be The pop-up cult club Kissinger started as a party concept for a slightly older audience. In 2009, local organizer Gregory “Gory” Willems swooped on a ward at the Military Hospital. The exclusive, semi-chic, semi-trash character was a big hit. Hip night owls and beautiful women soon made Kissinger THE party venue in Antwerp. Artists Luc Tuymans and Jan Fabre were regular guests and celebrities such as rock star Daan and Deus frontman Tom Barman turned in regular appearances there. Since then, the Military Hospital has been converted to a residential complex and the parties are often held in various avant-garde, sometimes alternative locations. From buffet restaurant Colmar to the culturally irreproachable MuHKA. From Antwerp Bowling to the former customs building
on the Eilandje. The latter is a new permanent site.
www.furthur.be for upcoming dates and locations.
Untitled!
Caia Croes (27) plays the drums & runs her own booking agency Search for Envers-swa on Facebook.
dubstep party Muziekcentrum Trix Noordersingel 28 - 30, 2140 Borgerhout www.untitledantwerp.com Last year (2011) Untitled! was nominated for the Redbull Elektropedia Awards. The parties guarantee the most mouthwatering line-ups, unique atmosphere, thundering bass and impressive visuals. At present, Untitled! is in residence at Muziekcentrum Trix, where it attracts as many as 2500 dubstep lovers. Tensionstep
dubsteb party www.furthur.be The recent organisation of Furthur regularly starts up new dubsteb concepts. Their “Tensionstep� label has already established a sound reputation. The parties usually take place at Petrol or at JC Kavka. Check out the Tumblr blog
Envers-SWA
alternative rock Van Schoonhovenstraat 20, 2060 Antwerp
They organise real underground concerts in a small DIY basement near Astridplein. Barely 20 people can fit inside, resulting in very intimate and accessible screamo, experimental and hardcore gigs. You should not be put off by the admission price. Often it is only 2 or 3 euros, or a donation that you decide.
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“FRIET” CULTURE
Big appetite but small budget? Act like a local and ‘steek een frietje’ (buy some fries). Not difficult in Antwerp, where you can find fries being sold on any street corner. A selection from the vast choice available.
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FRITKOT MAX
FRITUUR N°1
HAUTE FRITURE
Groenplaats 12, 2000 Antwerp Fritkot Max is an institution. This purveyor of fries is next to the busy Groenplaats, and you can get excellent, surprisingly cheap fries here. You can acquaint yourself with the culture of the famous Belgian fries - yes Belgian, not French. The dining area above the fries shop combines fries and art in a mini-museum.
Hoogstraat 1, 2000 Antwerp Number One is the most famous fries shop in Antwerp and the surrounding area. You pay slightly more than usual, but for that price, you get delicious golden yellow fries. Operator Maria is an icon - on her Facebook fan page, over 6,600 fans collect her famous sayings. Number One is right in the history city centre, and is open almost around the clock. The ideal stop after a few beers of an evening.
Vlaamse Kaai 66, 2000 Antwerp, Zuid Searching for fresh & fancy fries? Then go to ‘t Zuid. With his eco-friendly “Haute Friture”, operator Misjel Meubus is making fries hip, happening and fashionable again. Eat in? Then sit on design chairs made of birch, and you get wooden cutlery - made in Belgium. Unlike many other fries shops, the meat snacks here are home-made. Misjel makes fresh veal and beef croquettes and in the hunting season, even game stew.
WHAT TO ORDER? If you find it hard to choose from the rather overwhelming range in the shop, go for a small tray of fries with mayonnaise (in your best Flemish: “een kleintje met mayonaise”), which is what people from Antwerp do when they can’t make up their minds either. Depending on your mood, you can replace the mayonnaise with stew sauce (“stoofvleessaus”) or a spicy Andalusian sauce (“andalous”). Want some meat too? Then order a “curryworst”, a kind of minced-meat hotdog. Careful, in the rest of Flanders, an Antwerp “curryworst” is known as a “frikandel”, which is no relation to a German sausage. In fact, nobody can tell you for sure how the sausage is made, or what goes into it. Do you find curryworst a bit dry? Then ask for a “curryworst special”, which gets you onions and mayonnaise or curry ketchup on your meat. The Bicky Burger, a real Belgian classic
born in 1981, is also highly recommended. The “Bicky” consists of a fried hamburger, a mix of chicken, pork and horse meat, topped with three unique sauces: yellow Bicky Dressing + red Bicky Ketchup + brown Bicky Hot Sauce, fried onions and pickles. The whole thing is served in a sesame bun. The Bicky Burger is available in most fries shops, but it is worth visiting Het Frietpaleis at Koningin Astridplein 11, Near central station, the only Bicky Flagship shop in the country. Here you will find several variants of the sweet&sour&spicy burger. The typical taste of the Bicky Burger is so popular that Belgians voted to have Bicky crisps launched on the market. Crisp manufacturer Lay’s produced a limited production run of these potato chips. You will find the perfect “friet souvenir” in any supermarket.
SLEEP IN STYLE
About cool boutique hotels, comfy youth hostels and hospitable locals.
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PULCINELLA
ABHOSTEL
AIRBNB
formerly known as Youth Hostel Antwerp The famous Belgian architect Vincent van Duysen built a super-cool youth hostel in the heart of the Antwerp fashion district. It combines openness with a sense of security in a modern design. Pulcinella has an interior that few design hotels can match. It is still very new - the hostel only opened its doors in May 2011. The prices – including sheets and breakfast – are between € 19.50 and € 26.50. Surprisingly low for such state of the art design. The rooms for two, four or six each have their own bathroom. Bogaardeplein 1, 2000 Antwerp www.vjh.be
backpackers for backpackers Tucked away behind the walls of a 120 year-old chocolate factory is Antwerp Backpackers Hostel, a small-scale initiative by Bridget. The operator - herself a born traveller - aims to enable her guests to sample a homely, hearty atmosphere. Starting at 19 euro, you have a bed, and can make use of free Internet, DVDs and lockers. The hostel has an extensive lounge and a completely fitted kitchen. ABHostel is ideal for night-owls, as you can eat breakfast at any time of day. The hostel is in Borgerhout, one of the most colourful districts of Antwerp. Kattenberg 110, 2140 Antwerp www.abhostel.com
fun & cheap accommodations offered by locals if you really want to live like a local, you can rent a studio or duplex apartment from people living in the city. On airbnb. com, one of the pioneers in the alternative letting circuit, you will find rooms from 35 euro per night. For 60 euro, you can stay in a top-floor apartment with a full fridge and sunny terrace (“smack-dab in the middle of the city centre”). And for 80 euro, you get a vintage room on the Oude Koornmarkt. A spacious loft with design furniture in culturally diverse Borgerhout is yours from 550 euro per week. On the site, you can reserve immediately, and get to know the house owners beforehand. Most owners offer breakfast too, but that is not included as standard. www.airbnb.com/antwerp-belgium
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AB Hostel
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