There’s nowhere like
SUFFOLK
The e-magazine from Visit Suffolk Winter/Spring 2023/24
o t e c a l p e ... th brate winter ce le Scenic Winter walks | Brilliant things to do… Outdoors | Suffolk New Year Resolutions | Plan your 2024 Suffolk holiday | The Friendly Invasion – A lasting legacy | Step back to Yesterday – A two-day itinerary
Music and performances From Christmas performances in our outstanding concert hall to free Music Makers sessions for children, there is something for all the family.
Independent shops Come and visit the beautiful shops and galleries this winter, all bursting with inspiration. From delicious Suffolk produce in the Food Hall, to seasonal decorations, homewares and furniture.
Stay a little longer Why not extend your visit by enjoying a light lunch in our café, exploring the stunning nature that surrounds us or even staying a little longer in our holiday accomodation.
Music, shopping and more Snape Maltings, Suffolk , IP17 1SP snapemaltings.co.uk
Christchurch Park, Ipswich
Inside
Welcome to Suffolk.
10 Scenic Winter walks
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Brilliant things to do… Outdoors
With fewer visitors than the rest of the year, Winter is the perfect time to come to Suffolk and explore without the crowds.
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Suffolk New Year Resolutions
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Plan your 2024 Suffolk holiday
And whether you’re here as a family, as a couple or group, or you’ve brought your four-legged friend along, you’ll get so many ideas about things to do, places to see and where to stay in this latest issue of There’s Nowhere Like Suffolk e-magazine.
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The Friendly Invasion – A lasting legacy
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Step back to Yesterday – A two-day itinerary
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We’ve got brilliant activities to do outdoors in Suffolk, and some great things to do in our lovely market and wool towns. Why not take a tour of the locations for the hit film Yesterday, scripted by Suffolk resident Richard Curtis, or discover more about the Friendly Invasion of Suffolk by tens of thousands of servicemen from the US Eighth Air Force during the Second World War, soon to be immortalised in the new Masters of the Air mini-series from Tom Hanks and Steven Spielberg on Apple TV+. We’ve also got lots of ideas for you to start planning your 2024 holiday here in Suffolk plus oodles of inspiration.
Cover image: Orwell Estuary © AnthonyCullen
Happy reading!
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c i n e c S 10 r walks e t n i W
Head to the coast for dramatic grey skies and thundering waves, blow away the cobwebs with invigorating countryside walks or follow inviting paths through frostsprinkled parkland and historic gardens. Immerse yourself in striking winter scenery; the stark beauty of frost-gilded trees, wide landscapes, and dramatic winter sunsets.
y Find these and m an at other walking routes Discover Suff olk
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2 ALTON WATER LAKE TRAILS Just outside Ipswich on the Shotley Peninsula, this man-made lake can be found. It is a haven for wildlife, walkers, cyclists, and all outdoor enthusiasts. Enjoy exploring on either the short route or the longer eight-mile trail.
1 ATMOSPHERIC ORWELL ESTUARY Winter-time add an altogether different dimension to the Orwell Estuary. It’s a great time to explore the shoreline, have a drink at the Butt & Oyster, marvel at the majesty of the Orwell bridge, enjoy the tranquillity and solitude. © AnthonyCullen
Alton Water Lake Flatford Bridge in winter © John Fielding
3 FLATFORD
5 SAILORS PATH
Flatford lies in the heart of the beautiful Dedham Vale along the Suffolk-Essex border, and was the inspiration for some of John Constable’s most famous paintings – such as The Hay Wain and Boatbuilding. Wandering beside the River Stour or looking at Flatford Mill and Willy Lott’s House you can feel as if you are walking through one of his paintings. It’s even more magical if you’re visiting on a crisp and frosty morning.
One of the finest Suffolk walks you can take is along the Sailor’s Path, a six-mile gentle leg-stretcher that wends its way through the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Area Of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It is one of the Suffolk walks first trod by the briny boots of the seamen who used to ply their trade along this part of the coast. Legend has it that when their boats got stuck in the Snape Maltings mud at low tide, the sailors would have to abandon their craft and head back to their Aldeburgh homes on foot. This forms part of the Suffolk Coast Path, a 50 mile route stretching from Felixstowe to Lowestoft.
4 ICKWORTH ESTATE An Italianate Palace, near Bury St Edmunds, with over 1800 acres of beautiful parkland, woodland, gardens and an all-weather trail to enjoy. The Monument Walk makes a great winter walk, weaving through the historic estate and offering breathtaking views across the landscape.
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6 LAVENHAM WOODLAND WALK A short walk taking you around the Lavenham Woodland, part of the old Lavenham to Long Melford Great Eastern Railway line. Starting from the Guildhall in the centre of the village, you will see the magnificent Church of St Peter and St Paul, a nod to how wealthy this wool town was in medieval times. Then head out into the countryside, before returning past more impressive architecture – the buildings in Lavenham haven’t changed much since medieval times.
7 THE NEWMARKET RIDES – MOULTON CIRCUIT The Newmarket Rides are close to Newmarket, the home of horse racing. This is a less discovered area of Suffolk, and is extremely picturesque, with plenty of history. An eight-mile route covers moated farmsteads, medieval churches and mills, the remains of a motte and bailey, a malt kiln, and a packhorse bridge. The network is quite extensive, making it easy to create a much longer route if you wish.
8 SUTTON HOO A perfect spot for a scenic winter stroll in the picturesque Suffolk countryside with the atmospheric Royal Burial Ground at its heart. There are miles of walking trails to discover the more expansive estate. The Ferry Cliff walk explores woodlands, fields and river on a 3-mile trail route, and you’ll be rewarded with far-reaching views over the River Deben. Take a moment to rest and enjoy the stunning views from the viewing tower across the burial ground.
9 DUNWICH HEATH AND BEACH Enjoy a bracing winter walk along Dunwich Beach, surrounded by the dramatic scenery of the crashing waves and imposing clifftop. Explore the heath on a cool, crisp day and spot winter migrating birds such as hen harriers, merlins, bramblings, redwings, and fieldfares. The site’s waymarked pink and orange routes take in steady 2 and 3-mile routes that traverse heathland and clifftop paths, taking in plenty of coastal views and nature spotting opportunities.
10 NOWTON PARK, BURY ST EDMUNDS
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Wander through the arboretum and see the henge and various sculptures as you enjoy the undulating parkland, all 200 acres of it! In spring, the lime avenue (planted around 1880) is one of the finest examples in the UK, and don’t miss the spectacular sight of over 100,000 daffodils sitting under the trees.
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t n a i l l i r B … o d o t things 8
s r oo d t u O
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t a e r g tI ’s a time to… 1 EXPLORE CHRISTCHURCH PARK
This park, in the heart of Ipswich, opened in 1985, and extends over 33 hectares of picturesque grounds. The park was officially ‘reopened’ in 2008 after the completion of a £4.5m restoration project. The Tudor Christchurch Mansion houses a public museum and art gallery.
g Ther e’s no such thin as bad weather, only bad clothing! 9
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2 EXPLORE DUNWICH HEATH AONB There are lovely heathland, forest and coastal walks to take, and don’t miss Dunwich itself with its friendly pub and tiny museum that tells the story of how this hamlet was once one of the biggest and most prosperous ports in the country. The diorama shows the extent of the port in its medieval heyday.
3 BE IN SOUTHWOLD It’s a great place to be in Summer, but, you know, busy. Now though you can enjoy the High Street and seafront without the throng and you’re assured of a table inside the pubs and restaurants. Head down to Blackshore harbour where there are shacks selling free seafood, cafes, restaurants and the Harbour Inn. Take a look at how high the water was in the 1953 flood.
4 TAKE A BOAT TRIP TO ORFORD NESS Take a boat trip on the National Trust’s Octavia to Orford Ness. It’s only a short one, but you’ll feel as if you’ve travelled to another world. This remote, wild shingle spit, the largest in Europe, has walking trails through this internationally-important nature reserve littered with debris and forbidding buildings from the time when it was a military testing site.
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5 GO STARGAZING With little light pollution on the coast, you can enjoy dark and wide skies. Wait for a cloudless night, wrap up warm, and get set for a magical natural experience. The two Designated Dark Sky Sites in the county are Walberswick and Westleton Common. Other good places are Shingle Street, Dunwich and Covehithe.
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6 MEET A POLAR BEAR! She’s called Ewa and she’s at >Jimmy’s Farm outside Ipswich. Ewa was rescued from a zoo in Sweden that closed, and now lives in a new Tundra reserve on the farm that features grassy plains, lakes fed from natural springs and a large woodland.
7 TAKE A BOAT TRIP ON THE BROADS This National Park has a quieter stretch, the River Waveney, in north Suffolk. Why not hire a boat at Beccles and cruise along the river nosing into peoples’ back yards.
8 GO BIRDWATCHING AT RSPB MINSMERE In the reedbeds and coastal lagoons you might see avocets, bearded tits and bitterns, at >RSPB Minsmere. Okay, you’re more likely to hear a bittern boom, but you never know.
Felixstowe
9 SEE THE ANIMALS AT AFRICA ALIVE >Africa Alive Zoological Reserve, near Lowestoft, is set in 100 acres of lovely countryside. It’s a conservation hub for some of Africa’s most vulnerable species, including the Southern White Rhino, African Lion, Reticulated Giraffe and Blue-Eyed Black Lemur.
10 EXPLORE FELIXSTOWE Explore Felixstowe seafront and discover >Landguard Fort. There’s a lovely traditional vibe to the town, with its seaside gardens and pier. Hunt out a great place for fish and chips, whether that’s by the beach or down by the Bawdsey ferry.
Sutton Hoo
11 VISIT SUTTON HOO >Sutton Hoo is the site of one of the greatest archaeological finds of all time – an Anglo Saxon Royal ship burial. The site, near Woodbridge, tells the story of the remarkable excavation and how the Anglo Saxons lived, plus there are lovely walk to take – and great views of the River Deben. 11
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12 SEE WHERE JOHN CONSTABLE PAINTED THE HAY WAIN National Trust property Flatford Mill within the Dedham Vale AONB is the location and it’s a lovely place to explore. Set beside the River Stour, take a look at the mill and Willy Lott’s House and you might feel as if you’re walking through one of Constable’s paintings.
13 EXPLORE THE WOOL TOWNS Visit Lavenham, Clare, Long Melford and Kersey, possibly the prettiest village you’re ever going to see. At Sudbury, don’t miss the recentlyrefurbished >Gainsborough’s House.
14 VISIT SUFFOLK’S LITTLE ITALY That would be Ickworth House with its fabulous rotunda. But it’s also a great place to stretch your legs, cycle or take your dog for a walk.
15 CHECK OUT BURY ST EDMUNDS Spend some time bimbling in Bury St Edmunds, our cathedral town. There’s some lovely Georgian architecture in the town centre (as well as lots of great shopping) and don’t miss the Abbey Gardens and Angel Hill, where some of The Personal Life of David Copperfield with Dev Patel was filmed. The town has the only surviving Regency theatre in the country.
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Willy Lott’s House Abbey of St Edmund ruins winter snow © Shawn Pearce
HOTEL . RESTAURANT . BAR THE MARQUIS, UPPER STREET, LAYHAM, SUFFOLK, IP7 5JZ Situated in Upper Layham in the Suffolk Countryside, The Marquis is the perfect place for your winter 2024 getaway. Boasting 2 AA Rosettes in culinary excellence, enjoy delicious wholesome dishes featuring fresh, locally sourced ingredients all cooked to perfection by our award-winning chefs. Relax and unwind in one of our comfortable and stylish rooms, all individually designed with luxury in mind. Representing the long history of the Marquis in all its elegance, curious beams and original fireplaces make each room charming and individual.
Whether you choose a classic double or a spacious suite, each room comes with plush bedding, fluffy towels and robes and complimentary toiletries to make your stay even more comfortable. If you're feeling adventurous, you can take a stroll through the picturesque nearby village of Hadleigh, stopping off at quaint boutiques along the way. At The Marquis, we pride ourselves on providing a warm and welcoming atmosphere with friendly staff on hand to make your stay unforgettable. Book your winter 2024 stay today using the promotional code below for our complimentary exclusive upgrades and to start planning your ultimate countryside escape.
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k l o ff Su w Year Ne s n o i t u l o es R
Here’s 12 suggestions for things you might want to resolve to do when you visit Suffolk in 2024. They’re reason enough to plan a trip…
1 GO TO NEWMARKET Visit the >National Horse Racing Museum and make sure you’re here early to see hundreds of horses out on the Gallops.
2 ENJOY AN EVENING ON IPSWICH WATERFRONT Cafes, bars, restaurants, hotels… all by the water. It’s like Marseille or Monaco… but in Suffolk! 14
3 VISIT STOWMARKET’S FOOD MUSEUM Check out talks, tours and demos that happen every day at the >Food Museum. Don’t miss out on the pathway which meanders along the River Rattlesden.
4 EXPLORE GAINSBOROUGH’S HOUSE IN SUDBURY A refurbished >Gainsborough’s House is now the largest arts space in Suffolk.
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6 GET HIGH IN THE BRECKS!
7 DISCOVER THE STORY OF EDMUND
Breckland in the north west of the county has the best overall climate in the country… yes, really! Why not hit the heights on the aerial ropes at >Go Ape! Before taking a relaxing walk or cycle in the country’s largest lowland pine forest.
At Bury St Edmunds, discover Edmund’s story, the king of the Anglo Saxons and the original patron saint of England, who refused to renounce his Christian faith when captured by Vikings and was tied to a tree, shot full of arrows and beheaded.
5 VISIT FRAMLINGHAM CASTLE
8 EXPLORE THE ORWELL ESTUARY
>Framlingham Castle was the inspiration for Suffolk super hero Ed Sheeran’s Castle on the Hill song about his adolescence in the lovely market town.
And take in the Shotley Peninsula and visit the Butt and Oyster pub at Pin Mill – the perfect place to sit, watch the boats and enjoy a fine local ale.
© AnthonyCullen
9 DRINK A PINT OF ADNAMS IN SOUTHWOLD Some people say you have to drink a pint of Guinness in Dublin where it’s brewed from the water of the River Liffey. We say the same about Adnams Bitter.
10 GO BIRDWATCHING AT RSPB MINSMERE Do so and you’ll be in the Dunwich Coast and Heaths AONB.
11 DISCOVER CARLTON MARSHES This lowland nature reserve in the Waveney Valley consists of meadows, reedbeds and woodland.
12 CYCLE THE DEDHAM VALE AONB This is Constable Country. The highlight is Flatford where you can see where he painted the Hay Wain. 15
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4 2 0 2 r u o y P lan y a d i l o h k l o ff u S
With fabulous coast and countryside, wonderful food and drink, brilliant visitor attractions, ‘Downton Abbeys’ and castles, festivals and events, now’s the best time to plan your 2024 holiday to make sure you get the accommodation of your dreams and to give yourself something to look forward to! And here’s our list of some of the reasons to visit Suffolk in 2024…
JANUARY This is the best time to enjoy migrating birdlife, not least at >RSPB Minsmere or other stretches on the Dunwich Coast and Heath AONB.
FEBRUARY Head out on a super snowdrop walk at >Kentwell Hall, Long Melford. 16
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First Light Festival, Lowestoft
MARCH
MAY
JUNE
Nothing puts a smile on the face like the sight of delightful daffodils and Suffolk is carpeted with them. Try >Ickworth, >Melford Hall, >Sutton Hoo and Nowton Park.
You know that warmer weather is coming when the stunt parties of swifts start swooping through village streets, hurtling around buildings, and screaming, ‘We’re back! Summer’s coming!’ This is a great time to explore the quirky mock medieval village of Thorpeness – take a rowing boat out on the mere and gaze at the House in the Clouds. Or how about heading to Orford where you can learn about the tale of the captured merman.
The Aldeburgh Festival of Music and the Arts was founded in 1948 by composer Benjamin Britten and singer Peter Pears. Devoted mainly to classical music, it takes place each June at >Snape Maltings. There’s also First Light at Lowestoft.
APRIL The days are longer and there’s family fun to be had at places such as >Thorington Outdoor Theatre and >Jimmy’s Farm.
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Lowestoft
JULY
AUGUST
SEPTEMBER
Book tickets for Latitude in July. It’s not your run-of-the-mill festival. Set in Henham Park near Southwold, this one has comedians, literature, music, dance, theatre, poetry, wellness… and painted sheep. There’s also Primadonna at the >Food Museum, Stowmarket and the July Festival at Newmarket.
Oh we do like to be beside the seaside, and now’s the time to do it! There’s traditional seaside fun to be had at Felixstowe and Lowestoft, or be lured by the genteel charms of Aldeburgh, Walberswick or Southwold with its Victorian pier.
A celebration of Suffolk’s thriving food and drink scene, the Aldeburgh Food Festival takes place in the beautiful setting of >Snape Maltings, next to the River Alde, each September.
Latitude Festival
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Stowmarket Food Museum
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St Edmundsbury Cathedral © Justine Sweetman
OCTOBER
NOVEMBER
DECEMBER
Autumn’s here, there’s the crunch of leaves underfoot, a nip in the air and the woods and forests are a beautiful orange hew. This is the time to explore the Brecks, see rutting deer and wild horses, and explore unique heathland. Head to Bury St Edmunds for spooky >Ghost Tours.
Travel to Bury St Edmunds in late November for St Edmunds Day, the annual celebration of the eponymous King of East Anglia who was martyred by the Vikings for refusing to renounce his Christian faith. Bury is Suffolk’s foodie town so take time to explore the restaurants and stay for a farmers’ market.
It’s panto time, oh yes it is! Make a short break of it when you see the show at the Theatre Royal Bury St Edmunds, at the New Wolsey and Regent in Ipswich, or Marina Theatre in Lowestoft.
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y l d n e i r F e h T n o i s a Inv y c a g e l g n i A last
In New Year 2024, Apple TV+ will stream their new $275m Masters of the Air drama, based on Donald L Miller’s book about The Friendly Invasion of US servicemen into the region during the Second World War.
MASTERS OF THE
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AIR
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Like sister series Band of Brothers and The Pacific, it has been made by Tom Hanks’ Playtone and Steven Spielberg’s Amblin, and stars BAFTA and Golden Globe Best Actor and Oscar-nominated Elvis actor Austin Butler, Barry Keoghan from Dunkirk, The Banshees of Inisherin, The Batman and the Gladiator sequel, Callum Turner from the Fantastic Beasts franchise, Jude Law’s son Raff in his first major role, and the new Doctor Who, Ncuti Gatwa. Cary Fukunaga, director of Daniel Craig’s James Bond swansong No Time To Die directs the first three episodes.
THE FRIENDLY INVASION At the height of the Second World War, Suffolk was the setting for a ‘Friendly Invasion’ which transformed the rural landscape and left a lasting legacy. The invaders were thousands of young Americans, part of the United States Eighth Air Force’s vast contribution to the Allies’ strategic bombing offensive being waged against Nazi-occupied Europe – the longest battle of the war. By 1944, Suffolk echoed to the roar of B24 Liberators and B17 Flying Fortresses as huge aerial armadas took to the skies from a countryside so freckled with bomber bases that it became known as ‘Little America’. It is no exaggeration to say that the arrival of 50,000 US servicemen in Suffolk in 1942 had the biggest cultural and landscape impact of any event since the Norman Conquest. Hundreds of miles of concrete runway were laid in a matter of months (it took 250,000 tonnes of concrete to build
one runway), and there was the introduction to our rationed region of peanut butter, donuts, chewing gum, popcorn and Coca Cola – all great news for dentists! Oh, and there were nylons, swing and the jitterbug too – although baseball didn’t catch on with the locals. The Americans also brought with them segregation. It is shocking to us today, but many market towns had alternate days for black and white servicemen. Did the fact that black servicemen were served by white people here, and were given equality by East Anglians, help ferment the American civil rights movement? Of course, this was very much a Friendly Invasion! Not only did we give the Americans a warm welcome, there was also the matter of around 40,000 women who went to the United States at the end of war! In fact, two cruise liners had to be requisitioned to sail them. 23
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February 20, 1942 was the day that the first US general, Brigadier General Ira C Eaker, arrived in the UK to form and organise the bomber command of the prospective Eighth Air Force – the guys who would be based here in what was before a very sleepy Suffolk. If the county was monochrome when they arrived, it was soon turned technicolour – just like The Wizard of Oz, released in 1939, the first year of the war! The American Air Force’s first mission was on July 4, 1942. They were determined to go on that date for
symbolic and propaganda reasons. What a message it would send – wanting to help Europe regain its independence from Nazism on their own Independence Day. Trouble is, their planes hadn’t turned up – so they had to use RAF bombers instead! In total, 350,000 US servicemen transitioned through East Anglia during the war’s longest battle – 26,000 of them losing their lives. One of the most poignant stories of the time was that of the man who should have become President of the United States, Joe Kennedy jnr. Flying out
of Fersfield in Norfolk on a secret bombing mission, he was tragically killed in action over Blythburgh Church when the plane he was flying exploded mid-air. There’s a small memorial to him in the church. Another plane on the mission was flown by Colonel Roosevelt, the son of the US President at the time. Today, over 70 years after the war’s end, the trans-Atlantic ties remain strong and a grand alliance born of a common cause and shared sacrifice is kept alive by volunteerrun museums and memorials.
The Americans also brought their own pets, including a grizzly bear called Roscoe Ann and a monkey!
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493rd BOMB GROUP MUSEUM, DEBACH Displays in the restored control tower show visitors how it would have looked in 1944. A number of buildings have been arranged to show medical facilities as well as life on the home front. Look out too for a number of restored military vehicles. >493bgdebach.co.uk
THE SWAN AT LAVENHAM
95th BOMB GROUP MUSEUM, HORHAM The 95th was the first bomb group to carry out a daylight raid on Berlin. The museum is located on the site of the former NCOs’ club called the Red Feather Club. It features many personal stories and other artefacts within the museum, with original air raid shelters outside. There are two murals, along with the faithfully restored Brad’s Bar, which is used for club socials throughout the year. 95thbg-horham.com
Atmospheric Lavenham feels like a medieval time capsule. Many US airmen congregated in 15th Century pub >The Swan. An inspiring collection of signatures and other mementos adorn the walls of the Airmen’s Bar. You could always have a go at the Boot Record, a challenge to drink three and a half pints of ale from a glass boot in record time. Various British units inscribed the results on the wall, which you can read today. Lavenham itself was a former centre of the wool industry, bypassed by the Industrial Revolution, and retains many of its original buildings, including a medieval guildhall.
ROUGHAM CONTROL TOWER MUSEUM, BURY ST EDMUNDS Rougham Control Tower Museum recalls the exploits of 322nd Bomb Group, including Brigadier General Frederick W Castle, who won the Congressional Medal of Honor for his actions on Christmas Eve 1944. >rctam94th.co.uk
RAF KNETTISHALL A group of historically minded US airmen named their Flying Fortress Tom Paine in honour of the 18th Century English radical thinker – a supporter of American independence, born at nearby Thetford. Knettishall was home to the 388th Bomb Group, who flew missions into Europe from June 1943 until the end of the war. Underneath the name on the aircraft’s nose was a quote from Paine: “Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered”. A well-meaning sentiment, it caused some controversy in Paine’s home town, where some still considered him a traitor to Britain! The base has now been returned to agricultural use, though there is a black granite memorial at the old entrance.
MARTLESHAM HEATH CONTROL TOWER MUSEUM The base was home to RAF fighters during the Battle of Britain, then hosted the USAAF’s 356th Fighter Group. The restored control tower holds a number of displays recording the history of the base from preSecond World War to the 1960s. >mhas.org.uk
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o t k c a Ste p b Yesterday
A TWO-DAY ITINERARY It’s writer Richard Curtis’ love story to his adopted county and highlights some of its most scenic corners, south and north of the 40mile long coastline. In fact, there’s no denying Suffolk is the star of the movie, beginning and ending with the iconic Latitude festival.
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Directed by Danny Boyle, Yesterday stars Lily James as Ellie and Himesh Patel as aspiring musician Jack Malik, who wakes up in an alternate reality where The Beatles have disappeared from everyone’s memories. At first, he shares songs from memory – his first being, of course, Yesterday, filmed by the River Deben – but he soon starts to claim The Fab Four’s classics as his own. How’s that going to turn out?
“There was very little in the way of set-dressing, it’s present day. There were loads of local people as extras,” said Rachel Aldridge of Screen Suffolk. Oh, and let’s not forget Suffolk superstar Ed Sheeran has a starring role too. In fact, the singersongwriter was chosen for his local connections and love of his home county, so much so that the videos for his latest album are all shot on or by the Suffolk coast. So… let’s head back to Yesterday…
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DAY 1 PLAYING YESTERDAY: The Ramsholt Arms, near Woodbridge, plays the role of Jack and Ellis’ local pub and is a fabulous setting. It takes a little while to reach on a single lane from the B1083 but it’s well worth it. Order at the bar and then take the picnic bench in the beer garden where Jack first sings Yesterday to his incredulous friends. ‘It’s one of the greatest songs ever written,’ says Jack. ‘Well, it’s not Coldplay. It’s not Fix You,’ says Carol. Think on that as you enjoy the view of the River Deben, with, depending on the tide, sailing boats heading out to sea or back to the marina at Woodbridge. MEETING JOHN LENNON: Our second stop is Shingle Street, where Jack meets John Lennon (Robert Carlyle). In the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, this setting can be, depending on the weather, raw and untamed or quietly serene. You can’t miss where the filming took place, the tiny hamlet is simply a row of cottages on a single street by a shingle beach with tufts of marram grass for protection from erosion. ‘Have you had a happy life?’ Jack asks. ‘Very,’ says John. ‘But not successful?’ ‘I just said, ‘Very happy’. That means successful.’
WHERE TO STAY: For hotels, try beach-side Fludyers in Felixstowe, waterside Salthouse Harbour Hotel in Ipswich or in Woodbridge the lovely Crown or Seckford Hall. On the outskirts try Hintlesham Hall or Milsoms Kesgrave Hall. For luxury self-catering, try The Suffolk Escape. THINGS TO DO: Woodbridge Tide Mill Museum, Bawdsey Radar Trust, Easton Farm Park, Orford Castle (English Heritage), Jimmy’s Farm and Wildlife Park.
DAY 2 ELLIE’S SCHOOL: Lily James plays a teacher in the film and some of her character’s school scenes were shot at Ormiston Denes Academy in Lowestoft with pupils playing roles. As well as being on screen, the children also benefited from a movie masterclass by Danny Boyle. While you’re in Lowestoft, take a walk along the promenade by the beach. Still popular today with tourists and day trippers, the town had its heyday in Victorian times when the railway arrived. ELLIE’S HOUSE: Some of the scene’s for Ellie’s home were shot at the end of the High Street closest to the beach at Dunwich, maintained by the National Trust. The little village has a fascinating history. You wouldn’t believe it, but in medieval times Dunwich was one of the largest ports in the country, but two devastating storms left most of it underwater. They say on a quiet day, you can hear church bells ringing from under the depths of Sole Bay. All that’s
left are the ruins of Greyfriars Abbey. To get a sense of how big it was, take a look at the scale diorama in the Dunwich museum. The beach at Dunwich is shingle, but if you want to get the feel of sand under your feet, head along the boardwalks through the marshes to Walberswick. HIGH STREET: Ed Sheeran, Himesh Patel and Lily James shot scenes at Halesworth. Remember the rainy High Street scene? That was Halesworth. The Hideout Café, family-run White Hart pub and Thoroughfare car park were also used as locations in this lovely market town. LATITUDE FESTIVAL: This popular festival at Henham Park near Southwold tops and tails Yesterday, something that was important to writer Richard Curtis. ‘Yesterday was written in Suffolk, set in Suffolk, and begins and ends at Latitude. I’ve rarely missed a year since it first began, so I’m overjoyed to be bringing it home.’ Curtis scheduled a special screening of Yesterday for Latitude 2019. Of course to experience Latitude, you’ve got to be here when it’s on! You can get tickets for 2024 here. Latitude Festival | Henham Park, Suffolk, 25-28 July 2024 WHERE TO STAY: Check out Potton Hall Hotel and Spa or The Anchor at Walberswick. THINGS TO DO: Africa Alive Zoological Reserve, Jet Adventures, Old Hall Southwold, Southwold Maize Maze & Play Park.
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There’s nowhere like Suffolk is published by Visit Suffolk
© AnthonyCullen