Faith and History Walks Trevi’s Arch
Northern and Southern Via Francigena, Francis Walk, Benedict Walk
Enjoy
Tradition, History and Archaeology Open until September 25 For further information: regione.lazio.it/santasevera
The
System of Walks
Sustainable and quality tourism along historical religious
paths
The Region of Lazio is the crossroads of the most important Jubilee routes, coming from the East and West of Europe, beautiful portions of the roads towards Jerusalem and Santiago di Compostela. Lazio is in fact the region of Rome, for more than a thousand years the destination of pilgrims and the paths that link to it. Lazio is a treasure chest of areas with an extraordinary potential, all to be discovered, sustainable and charming routes which represent the main structure of the slow and outdoor tourism segment. Itineraries which were developed in particular during the Jubilee of Mercy, proclaimed by Pope Francis, along which people continue to walk even after it finished, enjoying the culture and traditions of Lazio. This is the reason why the Regional Agency of Tourism has endeavoured to promote the “System of Walks” and to develop the hospitality culture, combining local policies and the sense of travel, understood as an internal journey and the source of physical and spiritual wellbeing. This implies: improving infrastructures throughout the territories and the offer of services and facilities (starting from making the paths safe and providing signage); increasing logistic information and information about the surrounding cultural heritage; promoting sports activities and events promoted by the territories; and, again, sustaining the production of the main local artisan and food and wine products. The Region of Lazio has decided to focus on the network that spreads over the four paths most representative for the international context: the Northern Via Francigena, the Francis Walk, the Southern Via Francigena in its two sections “Appia” and “Prenestina” and the Benedict Walk. We present them in this special edition of the magazine TREKKING&Outdoor and we invite you, for further information, to visit the institutional hospitality site of Lazio www.visitlazio.com, created in Italian and English and updated constantly, the result of a project of collaboration among the Assessorato all’Agricoltura, ARSIAL, the Agenzia regionale dei Parchi, the Direzione Cultura e Politiche giovanili, the Direzione Attività Produttive and the Agenzia regionale del Turismo and already present on the Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest, Youtube and Google social networks. Massimiliano Smeriglio Vice President of the Region of Lazio with responsibility for Tourism
Texts by Serafino Ripamonti and Enrico Bottino Pictures by Michele Dalla Palma and the Regional Office
Steps through
History
THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE FIRST WAYS OF COMMUNICATION BEGAN WITH THE CONSULAR, MUNICIPAL AND LOCAL ROUTES, BUILT BY THE ROMANS, LARGE AND SMALL ROADS WHICH, OVER THE YEARS, PERFORMED THE HISTORIC FUNCTION OF EXCHANGE BETWEEN DIFFERENT CIVILIZATIONS AS WELL AS ACTING AS A MEETING PLACE. MORE THAN TWO THOUSAND YEARS LATER, THANKS TO THE NETWORK OF ROUTES AND PROJECTS TO UPGRADE THE TERRITORY AND ITS EXCELLENT FEATURES INCLUDING THOSE RELATING TO FOOD AND AGRICULTURE, THE EXCURSIONIST CAN DISCOVER FASCINATING LANDSCAPES AND ADMIRE WORKS OF ART AND MONUMENTS WHICH ARE THE RESULT OF YEARS OF HISTORY AND CULTURE IN OUR LAND. Cantalice’s houses, clinging to the hill side, encircle its summit dominated by the Cassero’s Tower and by the white eighteenth-century church dedicated to Saint Felice
2 · Il Sistema dei Cammini del Lazio
Il Sistema dei Cammini del Lazio ¡ 3
he first political capital of the ancient world, and then later the spiritual capital of Western Christianity, Rome is caput mundi, “the quintessential city�, where all roads meet. For more than two thousand years the Urbe has been a crossroads of itineraries which spread out northwards, towards continental Europe, and southwards, towards the Mediterranean. The consular routes, created for the army, for trade and the efficiency of the Roman government administration, became over the centuries the paths along which pilgrims, religious wayfarers, travelled from Northern Europe to Rome, then more and more towards the South, until they reached the harbours where people used to embark for the Holy Land.
T
4 ¡ Il Sistema dei Cammini del Lazio
Latium is the territory crossed by all these trajectory roads before arriving in Rome, unravelling like a web into the most fascinating regional areas from the point of view of nature, panoramas, history, art and culture. In recent years the regional administration has worked hard to develop this network of historical itineraries for the tourist, giving life to a veritable Lazio Route System, which, today, has become an extraordinary heritage available to slow tourism enthusiasts, helping the traveller discover the extraordinarily beautiful and interesting areas left overshadowed until now by the Capital’s uncontested fame. The high-style launching of The Lazio Route System brilliantly corresponded with the Extraordinary
Jubilee of Mercy, the perfect occasion to commemorate the thousand-year-old pilgrim and wayfarer tradition, visiting, along the ancient roads, the lesserknown places of Latium before arriving in Rome. Latium has four very important Faith Trails: the Northern Via Francigena, from Proceno (Vt) to the borders with Tuscany to Rome; the Southern Via Francigena, from Rome to Minturno and to Cassino, on the borders of Campania and Molise; the Benedict Walk, which crosses Latium starting from the Leonessa (Ri) territory to Montecassino and the Francis Walk, where we can discover the places in which the Poor Man from Assisi lived and preached, stretching from Umbria to Rome, passing through the Reatina Holy Valley.
THE PILGRIM’S POUCH Launched during the Expo 2015, “The Pilgrim’s pouch” is the brand which identifies traditional food specialties which possess those characteristics indispensable in the food of walkers such as: typical local products containing all the nutrients needed by hikers, light, easy to conserve, wholesome with a high energy content and excellent sensorial features. To learn more visit the site: www.bisaccia. viefrancigene.org
On the double page track in flagstones of the ancient Via Cassia, near Montefiascone. Walking through the woods in the tablelands of Arcinazzo, we suddenly see a majestic town wall, characterized by the Arch of Trevi which expresses all the charm of a megalithic construction. Typical rural landscape. Il Sistema dei Cammini del Lazio · 5
THE NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN VIA FRANCIGENA
The Francigena is of course the best known and the most ancient of the large routes and, from the North of the region, it reaches Rome passing through magnificent landscapes, ancient villages and nature reserves, from Tuscia to the heart of Christianity. In Rome another Franciscan itinerary also merges, known as the Southern Via Francigena, originally travelled by the pilgrims passing through between the Capital to the Apulian ports from which the ships set sail towards the Holy Land. Since the Dark Ages, the journey to Rome, one of the holiest cities of Western Christianity, the seat of the Papal throne, and place where the remains of Saint Peter and Paul were enshrined, constituted together with the journey of Santiago de Compostela and the visit to Jerusalem, one of the three “majors peregrinations”, that is to say one of the three most important devotional pilgrimages for Christians from all over Europe. There were several so called “Vie Romee”, along which wayfarers and pilgrims used to travel, often corresponding to the main axes of the ancient consular Roman roads. The Via Francigena was one of the busiest: originally created by the Franks during their military and political expansion towards the Mediterranean area, originally travelled by pilgrims who crossed the Alps and the Tusco-Emiliano Apennine from Northern Europe and from the West, running down through Tuscany and Northern Latium. The Via Francigena was not only travelled by pilgrims but it was also the route of trade and ideas. It is not just by chance that some of the most important towns and most splendid artistic cities can be found at the main intersections of the route. In some way, the Franciscan Routes became the main routes along which the common cultural identity of Europe spread throughout the various regions as far as the borders of the continent. The route nowadays officially recognized by the 6 · Il Sistema dei Cammini del Lazio
European Council as the Via Francigena traces the segments indicated in the memoir left by Sigerico, the Archbishop of Canterbury, to recall the pilgrimage he made at the end of the 10th Century. Across the Gran San Bernardo and along the coast of Tuscany, Sigerico arrived in Latium between Radicofani and Proceno. The first latial stage of the via Francigena in Latium mentioned in the “journey diary” of the Archbishop of Canterbury is Acquapendente, where the sacellum imitating the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem was found. From there, the route reaches Bolsena, known for the miracle of Santa Rosa, Capranica, Sutri, Campagnano and Formello, arriving in Rome across Mount Mario, the ancient Mons Gaudii, a name that probably depicted the joy of pilgrims as they finally glimpsed the Eternal City after their endless and dangerous journey. Yet
EST!! EST!! EST!! Crossing the Routes of Latium also implies discovering regional wines. Among many there is one whose name is a legend: the white dry DOC (Controlled Designation of Origin) Est!! Est!! Est!! from Montefiascone. According to legend, in fact, the bishop Johannes Defuk, on his journey to Rome in 1111, was preceded by a cup-bearer in charge of seeking the finest wines. Every time they found a wine good enough for the bishop the servant would put his mark on the door of the wine cellar and by doing so probably created the first brand of quality in history: “Est”, or: “There is”. The messenger was so enthusiastic about the white wine from Montefiascone that he wrote “Est” three times on the door with three exclamation marks: Est!! Est!! Est!! On the double page Ercole’s Roman Temple in Cori. The wine-making tradition goes back to the Roman Period. Formello, Orsini Palace’s entrance. Ninfa’s Garden. Norma, archaeological area.
ROUNDED DELICATE ROMAN This is not an incipit of an ode by Catullus praising some matron, but the poetic name of one of the most popular fruits growing in the woods crossed by Franciscan pilgrims along the banks of lake Vico. The whole Vico area is the chosen site for growing the Monti Cimini hazelnut which belongs to the “Rounded delicate Roman” a variety that has recently been acknowledged as a DOP brand. The Cimini hazelnut is the basis for many traditional sweets such as the“tozzetti” from Viterbo or the “panpepato”.
From the top The Cloister of Valvisciolo’s Abbey, not far from Sermoneta. Castel Gandolfo and Lake Albano, artistic, ourdoor nature pearls of the Castelli Romani Nature Reserve.
8 · Il Sistema dei Cammini del Lazio
not for all pilgrims was Rome the final destination. From the capital of western Christianity many continued their journey towards the south east, across many routes, towards the Adriatic coasts and from there, across the sea to the Holy Land. These walks that intersect each other following the territory’s orography and the weak points of the Apennine passes are nowadays identified as the Southern Via Francigena, the first part of the journey that, from the graves of the Saints Peter and Paul, leads to the ports where pilgrims embarked on their journey towards Christ’s Holy Sepulchre in Palestine. More than the Western stretch, the Southern Via Francigena is a “wide road” along which the pilgrims, during the various eras, walked, choosing different ways, depending on the political circumstances, climatic conditions, flooding or on their religious orientations. Since 2008 Latium has implemented a wide range of ventures to develop the Southern Franciscan walks, investing considerable resources in the restoration of several trails South of Rome, identifying two main routes. One is the Via Prenestina – Via Latina that crosses the Provinces of Rome and Frosinone all the way to the border with Molise, involving 43 municipalities and including two choices, the first one leading towards Cassino and the second one twisting and turning along the Comino Valley. In this area one can find the important Abbeys of Casamari and Montecassino. The other one is the Appia route that descends from the Roman Castles in the Province of Latina, passes through the ancient harbour city of Terracina (where formerly some pilgrims chose the nautical route towards Jerusalem) and reaches the river Garigliano, on the edge of Campania. The route, which includes 29 municipalities, following the ancient consular way along the slopes of mounts Lepini, Ausoni and Aurunci, is rich in archaeological sites and passes the Abbeys of Fossanova and Valvisciolo.
THE BREAD OF THE WALK Together with the shell and the walking stick, bread is one of the symbols of the pilgrim. In the land where all the Routes meet bread has to be good. If we mention names we are bound to leave someone out but we must mention at least the best-known varieties (deciding which is the best is a job we leave to our most gluttonous readers!!). And so there is Traditional bread from Genzano IGP, then Cacchiarelle, Ciriola Romana, Falia bread, the homemade one from Lariano and Monti Lepini bread, ciambella sorana, breads from Vicovaro and from Salisano.
FLAVOURS From the banks of Lake Bolsena to the shores of the Gulf of Gaeta, the Northern and Southern Francigena itineraries also provide us with a wide selection of fish. Numerous Traditional Agricultural Products (PAT) can be found in the lakes where the historical routes pass such as eel and lake whitefish from Bolsena, lattarini from Bracciano and calamita from Fondi. Then, the coast gives us a wide range of sea delights, also awarded the PAT brand, such as cured anchovies and Tiella from the Gulf of Gaeta.
Il Sistema dei Cammini del Lazio · 9
a
nic
pra
Ca
no
za
z Ma
R. no
na ag mp Ca oma R di
Leonessa
Co
lle
Rocca Sinibalda Castel di Tora Ascrea To ra Paganico Sabino Pozzaglia Sabina Orvinio Percile
di
o
Licenza Mandela Vicovaro Sambuci
Cerreto Laziale
Gerano
Saracinesco Anticoli Corrado Marano Equo Agosta Canterano
Subiaco
Jenne Trevi
nel Lazio
Guarcino Vico nel Lazio Collepardo Abbazia di Casamari
ino
Arp
zia
ba
Ab
di
ca Roccasec o Castrociel
Cassino Abbazia di Montecassino
LATINA
ia
.Luc
S Villa
iolo
isc
lv Va
re
pad
nto
Sa
Abbazia di Fossanova
FRANCIS WALK
It was Christmas Eve of 1223 when in the small village of Greccio, in the greenest Reatina area, a man dressed in rags, whose fame had already spread in a great part of Central Italy, began, during the Mass to recall the birth of Jesus. Tradition tells that during that night a little child appeared and was embraced by the arms of a poor man. That was the first historic representation of the Nativity Scene, told by Francis, the young son of a rich merchant from Assisi, who shortly afterwards would change the history of the Church itself, preaching in the heart of Italy. Even now, his name evokes dreams of journeys and change. Everything about Francis is synonymous with movement, change, contemplation of the world and nature. For sure, the world loved by Francis wasn’t at all the mundane world but the community of simple men and, most of all, the creation. Not simply ecstatic contemplation of the surrounding world, endless love for all the elements that the eyes may see, the silence that nature offers to us all which finds its expression in the famous Canticle of the Creatures. All of this is Francis. In the Canticle each tree, each flower, each breath of wind is loved. And precisely in the Reatina Valley, known nowadays as the Holy Valley, Francis found incitements, perceptions, horizons that gave life to the poetic masterpiece. The Francis Walk was promoted in 2003 and was originally organized in eight stages, for a total length of about 80 kilometres extending along the Reatina Valley, following the Saint’s wanderings. The stages of the Francis Walk are well sign-posted and undergo continuous upkeep, so as to allow everyone, families included, to enjoy the nature loved so much by Saint Francis: the “faith path” that retraces the stages of a life spent in the pursuit of Christian mysticism. Good pilgrims, before following in the Saint’s steps, can equip themselves with a passport, precisely as in the tradition of the long walks. This document will 12 · Il Sistema dei Cammini del Lazio
Labro’s rock houses Monteleone Sabino, Santa Vittoria’s Santcuary
POPULAR PECORINO AND NOBLE CAPRINO… Together with pilgrims, merchants and armies, for many centuries the ancient routes of Latium have also been home to shepherds and their flocks. Almost every part of the region is the land of breeders and therefore of cheese. Among the most famous you can find Pecorino Romano DOP, but during your pilgrimages across the Routes of Latium you will certainly have a chance to discover other gourmet treats such as the delicious Caprino Nobile, created with milk from organic farms and included among products identified by the “Pilgrim’s Pouch” brand, and “Caciofiore” from the Roman countryside, soft sheep’s milk cheese made from the vegetable extract of the wild cardoon flower used as rennet since the Ancient Roman period. The cheese is aged from 30 to 60 days.
certify the journey through the four main Franciscan sanctuaries along the route, useful for finally obtaining the pilgrim’s written declaration. The hike follows the historic steps of the Saint, starting from Rieti, where it is possible to visit the Papal Palace and the Oratory where Francis offered his own cloak to a poor woman. Leaving behind the village that the Romans nicknamed Umbelicus Italiae, because of its central position along the Italian boot, you enter a fascinating environment that symbolically marks a transformation, a transition: the stillness of the woods envelops the traveller, who will soon understand why, around 1225, Francis composed the Canticle in this very area. With this silence, interrupted only by the sound of the flowing creek, the Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Foresta marks the first stage – and the support point – of the route. The climb up to the Poggio Bustone Hermitage instead reminds us of the beginning of the peace mission of the Franciscans, highlighted by the well known “Good morning, good people” with which words the Poor Man greeted the simple people of the village. The path includes several hamlets and silent places, bearing witness to the path followed by the Franciscan monks who, according to tradition, took up residence far from the towns but not
too far from the company of men, unlike other religious communities, such as the Benedictines, who have always preferred isolation and mediation. Thus, after the historical centre of Poggio Bustone, you reach the shadow of the majestic and extraordinary Rivodutri Beech Tree which, with its huge foliage, offers shelter from the summer heat, defends from rainfall, cheers up the souls and amazes the eyes. It is said that only another two examples in the world have such a shape. After the silence, the trail leads us back to people, to the previously mentioned Greccio, a place of art and Medieval culture where the hermitage, clinging to the rock, has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Further away, the centuries-old holm oak on the side of Mount Raniero and the precious Fontecolombo Sanctuary. Here Francis and his devotees allegedly sanctioned, in the cavern known as Sacred Speco, the final Rule of the Holy Order. It’s been told that in this place Francis had eye surgery with a scorching iron. Posta, the place where the first community of Minor Friars was founded and the site of the reliquary of the Terminillo - built in the heart of the big mountain by Pio XII who declared Francis Patron Saint of Italy in 1939 concludes the Francis Walk. Nerola, Orsini Castle
Leaving behind the Reatina Valley, the route through the places frequented by Saint Francis today continues as far as Rome: a walk on foot that leads pilgrims from Rieti through the Sabina Valley, crossing the Monti Lucretili Park, then through the Roman countryside and the City of Rome, as far as Saint Peter’s.
BENEDICT WALK
A long route (about 300 kilometres) that crosses the Apennines entering Latium, ending in Cassino, a few kilometres from the Region Molise and from Campania. From North to South, the Benedict Walk passes several Abbeys founded by the Saint and by his devotees. These are often sites that commemorate fundamental moments of Benedict’s life, or represent traces of a doctrine that wasn’t just spiritual and religious, but represented the first step towards the restoration of a civil society based on
OIL TERRITORIES There isn’t a historical Route in Latium along which one can’t taste the precious green gold of the Mediterranean. Oil is, indeed, one of the Region’s most esteemed agricultural products and almost every corner of the territory safeguards its own high quality product. There are four approved DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) in Latium: Canino, Colline Pontine, Sabino and Tuscia. During Expo 2015 the Region launched four tourist itineraries to discover the areas where this excellent product is made. To learn more visit the site: www.lazioterredellolio.com
the values of work, culture and solidarity at the basis of European culture (it’s not by chance that Saint Benedict was declared “Patron Saint of Europe” by Pope Ratzinger). After departing from Norcia, the birthplace of the Saint, the route continues to Latium in the territory of Leonessa and goes on along the Holy Reatina Valley, passing some of the places that were already stages of the Francis Walk: the Monastery of Poggio Bustone, the village of Cantalice, the Monastery of La Foresta and finally the centre of Rieti. Going down along the Turano Valley, the route passes Rocca Sinibalda and crosses the territory of the Mounts Lucretili Park. Then it reaches Licenza, where we can still see the ruins of the magnificent country villa owned by the Latin poet Orazio and Vicovaro, where you can’t miss visiting a small masterpiece of the Renaissance: the tiny Temple of Saint Giacomo, which the
On the bottom Veroli, the Abbey of Casamari was consecrated in 1217 by Pope Onorio III. Next page Pastena Cave, tiny waterfall in the sala dell’Occhialone. Collepardo, the Certosa of Trisultiin national monument since 1873
architect Domenico di Capodistria was commissioned to build by the powerful Orsini family. Here you will also find the Convent of Saint Cosimato, next to which there are several caves, formerly inhabited by the hermit monks. On the same path, a change in direction leads us to the most suggestive of the Benedictine sites, the Mentorella Sanctuary in Capranica Prenestina. Once we enter the Aniene Valley we arrive at the places where Saint Benedict went in search of a place to establish his hermitage. So we arrive at Subiaco where, at the bottom of a rocky slope that overlooks the valley, the magnificent Monastery of Sacro Speco is located near the cave which Benedict used for his hermitage. After the visit to Sacro Speco and the nearby Monastery of Saint Scolastica, the only one left out of thirteen Monasteries founded in the high
Valley of Aniene, the itinerary abandons the Roman district crossing the area of the Mounts Simbruini Regional Park and entering the Frosinone district. Here the itinerary covers Trisulti Certosa, Collepardo Sebastiano Badia, the municipality of Alatri and the Casamari Abbey near Veroli. Benedict’s Walk ends at the Montecassino Abbey, the true Benedictine religious centre. Here Saint Benedict founded his first Monastery and wrote his famous Order, summarized in the formula ora et labora that constituted for centuries one of the founding principles of Western monasticism. Despite being destroyed many times, (the most dramatic destruction occurred at the end of the Second World War) the Abbey was always rebuilt and has been able to keep intact even today the charm and the grandeurs of the great religious and cultural experience of Benedict and his devotees.
MIXED BERRIES It’s not only in the countryside cultivated by men that good flavours from Latium grow. In the shadow of uncontaminated forests like those in Ciociaria, crossed by Benedict’s Walk, underneath hazelnut trees hide exquisite mushrooms and in the meadows wild asparagus and an incredible variety of herbs which were in the past the basis of the poor everyday diet of the rural populations from the hinterland and today represent the essential element for the preparation of dishes which describe the traditions and the history of the territory. In particular we find the tradition of preserving many agricultural products in order to taste them, practically fresh, even when the season is over.
ITINERARIES NORTHERN VIA FRANCIGENA SOUTHERN VIA FRANCIGENA FRANCIS WALK BENEDICT WALK
Rome
N
NORTHERN VIA FRANCIGENA The last stages of the Northern Via Francigena, which from the Northern borders of Latium lead to Rome, are made unforgettable by the extraordinary allure of the countryside of Tuscia and by the artistic treasures of small villages and cities of art like Viterbo. Every kilometre you cross, furthermore, increases the walker’s excitement and expectations before reaching the final destination of the trip…
FROM MONTEFIASCONE TO VITERBO STARTING PLACE Montefiascone, Rocca dei Papi ARRIVAL PLACE Viterbo, Piazza del Plebiscito DISTANCE 17,7 km DIFFICULTY E DIFFERENCE IN ALTITUDE +65 -379 metres TIME 4 hours Leaving Montefiascone with its majestic basilica, we move away from the town for a short distance along an asphalted section before following a dirt track which brings us to the ancient via Cassia, still in excellent condition. We then cross a hilly stretch with beautiful panoramic views of Montefiascone and Viterbo.
Descending we can relax in the Bagnaccio thermal baths, a series of hot water springs, a destination over the centuries of the pilgrims who travelled along the via Francigena. We finally arrive in Viterbo, entering the city through the historical Porta Fiorentina. The visit to the historical centre and San Pellegrino quarter which reveals the splendour of what once was known as “The City of Popes” is not to be missed. In the 13th century Viterbo was, in fact, the papal headquarters. Other visits you cannot miss are those to the Association of the Laborers of Santa Rosa Museum and the Botanical Garden of Tuscia in Viterbo. Montefiascone
FROM CAMPAGNANO DI ROMA TO LA STORTA STARTING PLACE Campagnano di Roma, Gonfalone Church ARRIVAL PLACE La Storta, Parish Church DISTANCE 30 km DIFFERENCE IN ALTITUDE +359 -466 metres DIFFICULTY E TIME 10 hours
A long but interesting stage which leads to the threshold of the Roman urban area. The itinerary passes through Campagnano di Roma (ancient village of Medieval origins), passes the panoramic viewpoint of Monte Razzano, before finally arriving at the Sanctuary of Madonna del Sorbo, the doorway to Valli del Sorbo (an important European site). The segment of the Via Francigena
which runs across the territory of Formello is one of the most organized, comfortable, and secure thanks to the work of the Municipality together with the Regione Lazio to restore and make the area safe. Leaving Valle del Sorbo we pass through the historical center of Formello from which, following the signage, we arrive at an uphill route immersed in a splendid natural landscape.
Along the way we meet the Monte Michele necropolis with Etruscan tombs dating back to VII and VIII century B.C. We continue along cliffs where the ancient Veio rose, the archaeological area of which can be visited by taking a small detour. We then cross Isola Farnese and arrive at La Storta only a few kilometres away from the final destination of the via Francigena.
SOUTHERN VIA FRANCIGENA When we think the end is in sight, new horizons open up‌ new adventures and things to discover. The Southern via Francigena is a bit like this. From the Capital we get back on track by walking across the gentle countryside of Castelli Romani, then further down, following the call of the coast, or venturing into the hills of Ciociaria.
FROM CASTEL GANDOLFO VELLETRI
DISTANCE 19,9 km
Gandolfo. The itinerary winds through the Parco Regionale di Castelli Romani, a vast protected area established to protect this territory of invaluable nature and scenery. The itinerary continues upward until we intersect the regional road 218 which we cross through an underpass, to continue along an ancient route where we can still find sections in basalt. We begin the descent
DIFFERENCE IN ALTITUDE +496 -555 metres
Fondi, Baronial Castle
STARTING PLACE Pontificial Building, Castel Gandolfo ARRIVAL PLACE San Clemente Church, Velletri
towards lake Nemi, hidden behind the vegetation until we reach the village of the same name. The itinerary continues southward (be careful of the traffic along via Nemorese), following a maze of forest roads which lead to Velletri, the ancient city of the Volsci whose territory is a part of the protected area of the Parco dei Castelli Romani.
DIFFICULTY E TIME 5 hours We leave the centre of Castel Gandolfo by taking the long Corso della Repubblica until the turnoff with Via di Ariccia where we take a route which goes into the woods passing on the inside of the crater of the extinguished volcano where Lake Albano was formed and which offers extraordinary views over the lake and Castel
Landscapes along the Southern Francigena Castel Gandolfo’s square
FROM ANAGNI TO VEROLI STARTING PLACE Anagni ARRIVAL PLACE Veroli DISTANCE 26,4 km DIFFERENCE IN ALTITUDE +880 -509 metres DIFFICULTY E TIME 8 hours We leave Anagni heading south east descending along via della Sanità, following via della Castagnola on the right. We come to three crossroads where we first
turn left, then right and finally left again. The road makes two slight hairpin bends and at the second one we go straight on along a dirt track at the end of which we turn right. Once we come to a votive shrine we take via Tartaralta di Sopra and follow it until we cross the provincial road SP56. Here we take a right turn and, immediately after, a left turn onto the local Mola di Sotto road. At the next junction we continue to the right until we reach the Municipal Road to Ronghino and then via Fannelli. At the following junctions we keep heading towards Ferentino which we reach after approximately three hours. From here the itinerary continues downwards along via San Rocco Montecchie until it reaches the Provincial
Road SP220 which we follow for a very short stretch on the left, then we turn right at the first junction in the direction of Casette Tecchiena and Marina di Pescia Romana. After crossing the State Highway SS 155 we continue towards the contrada Sant’Anna. From the residential area we follow the road signs to Veroli taking, a couple of meters ahead, a small road heading for Veroli hill at the end of which we take an upward path which on the right leads to a mule track. Shortly after we arrive at a tiny paved street and continue upwards on the right. We then reach Via Madonna del Pianto, which we cross upwards and, near a house, we take an upward path which leads to the chapel of Saint Valentine and continues to Veroli.
THE FRANCIS WALK From the hermitages of Reatina Valley to the Roman countryside, each stage of the Francis Walk is related to the life of the Poor Man from Assisi, his revolutionary preaching and his relationship of deep spiritual harmony with nature.
RIETI – FONTE COLOMBO SANCTUARY – GRECCIO SANCTUARY STARTING PLACE Rieti ARRIVAL PLACE Greccio Sanctuary DISTANCE 20,8 km DIFFICULTY E DIFFERENCE IN ALTITUDE +470 -390 metres TIME 7 hours
Starting from the square adjacent to Santa Maria Cathedral the route winds for 4 km through the town of Rieti, then leaving the country road to Tancia, in the village of Macelletto, carrying on towards Fonte Colombo, following a local road and a trail. Once we get to the Fonte Colombo Sanctuary, after almost one hour on foot, the route leads towards the district of Sant’Elia ; once we leave the Church of the Prophet Sant’Elia on the right, we climb down towards the built-up area of Piani Poggio Fidoni, after which we take Via Tancia in the direction of Canera Valley going upwards towards Posta Hill. This is one of the most extraordinary places of the whole
18 · Il Sistema dei Cammini del Lazio
walk dominating the whole Saint Valley. Once we come, finally, to Contigliano after climbing over the hills, and passing Piano, we join the path called Onnina going towards the San Pastore Abbey, from which we access via San Pastore which intersects with the country road to Greccio where we can visit the famous Franciscan Sanctuary. Before the upper car park of the Sanctuary, on the right, another path, forming a route of about two hours in addition to those required for the stage, leads to the small Chapel on Mount Lacerone. Here Saint Francis stood in solitude and meditation, enjoying the gorgeous view over the Saint Reatina Valley.
GRECCIO SANCTUARY– POGGIO BUSTONE SANCTUARY STARTING PLACE Greccio Sanctuary ARRIVAL PLACE Poggio Bustone Sanctuary DISTANCE 28,5 Km DIFFICULTY E
Place La Foresta, the Sanctuary
DIFFERENCE IN ALTITUDE +430 -250 metres
Greccio’s Sanctuary
TIME 9 hours Going downwards from Greccio, we continue along the country road until we reach the intersection with the road to Reopasto, following the direction to Terni. Turning for Montisola, we continue all the way until we reach the Terria Bridge that crosses the river Velino in the place called Colle San Pastore. Going on, on the left, towards Settecamini, we can reach the Reserve of the lakes Lungo and Ripasottile around Lanserra and the water pump. The path continues towards Ponte Crispolti until it reaches the Ternana provincial highway. We take this road towards Rieti and then follow the provincial Ponte Crispolti road as far as Poggio Bustone. The route continues along a local road shaded by large oaks, leading to the village San Pietro and Bandita. From here on , the climb becomes steeper and more demanding, but once we reach Poggio Bustone small internal village roads lead us quickly to the Sanctuary.
HOSPITALITY ON A HUMAN SCALE Flavours and hospitality are part of the culture, traditions and professional skills that form the basis of the success of the destinations of the historical the Lazio Route System. A list of hotels and restaurants can be found on www.visitlazio.com/gli-sfogliabili
Il Sistema dei Cammini del Lazio · 19
THE BENEDICT WALK This is a long route which goes from Norcia to the Abbey of Montecassino. Kilometers of roads which take you forward in space and backward in time, recalling the stages of life of the patriarch of modern monasticism and the most secret and ancient soul of the Latium territory through small villages, countryside and millennial forests.
FROM TREVI NEL LATIUM TO COLLEPARDO STARTING PLACE Trevi nel Lazio ARRIVAL PLACE Collepardo DISTANCE 23,8 km DIFFERENCE IN ALTITUDE +560 -750 metres DIFFICULTY E TIME 7,30 hours
FROM ROCCASECCA TO MONTECASSINO STARTING PLACE Roccasecca ARRIVAL PLACE Montecassino DISTANCE 19 km DIFFERENCE IN ALTITUDE +450 -240 metres DIFFICULTY E TIME 6 hours From Roccasecca we arrive at Caprile village, in a panoramic position over the Liri valley and Aurunci hills. We continue along the paved road to Castrocielo. Descending
Leaving Trevi, approximately 100 meters from the hotel Il Parco, we take a dirt road on the right which descends and leads to San Teodoro bridge. We cross the river Aniene and take the path on the right which runs along the river and then starts to climb up into the woods reaching the small chapel of Santa Maria della Portella. From this point until Capodacqua spring the path continues panoramically descending slightly. Once we reach the spring we take the steep path on the left through the woods arriving at the arch of Trevi from the Roman period.
First we take a cart track then a paved road which we follow on the left reaching the village of Guarcino. We descend then to the village following the road to Alatri. Where the road takes a bend we continue on the left and take the small via Castagnola descending slightly up to a junction. There we take the left turn following the signs to Fonte Italia. Once we arrive at the mineral water factory we continue straight taking a dirt road. The uphill road takes us to Vico nel Lazio. From there, following the road open to vehicles we arrive at Collepardo.
slightly we continue straight until we reach the church and the lake of Capodacqua where we turn left on Cavallara road, we then pass the alleys which take us to the residential area of Piedimonte Alta and lead us then to Villa Santa Lucia from which we arrive quickly in Madonna delle Grazie by following the directions. After the sanctuary we take a dirt road which we follow till a sharp left curve where we take a small path which goes up on the left. After skirting an enclosure we take another path on the right at the same altitude until it reaches a
curve from which we can see the monastery of Montecassino. We follow the path until we intersect a CAI (Italian Alpine Club) track which we follow on the right until we reach the manor farm of Albaneta. Here we take the right turn into an alley which is only partly paved. We continue by crossing a cypress-lined road. At the end of the descent the road finishes with a locked gate. We take the road on the right which goes up to Montecassino and after a curve we’ll find ourselves in front of the entrance to the Abbey of Montecassino.
Montecassino’s Abbey
360 degree routes
Historical and religious locations, nature and culture, top quality food and outdoor activities are some of the main reasons for travelling along the historical routes. With the Northern Via Francigena, from the border with Tuscany you head for Tuscia and the nearby Maremma in Latium, a rural landscape where it’s easy to find herdsmen and cows grazing; agritourisms, stables, studs and centres which offer horse riding lessons and pleasant rides. Hiking over Via Cassia you can see Lake Bolsena where you can fish, sail or windsurf; along its banks you can bike from Montefiascone to the Bisentium ruins. More towards the South, in the Valle del Liri, among green hills and fascinating sunbathed historical villages, other interesting bicycle rides can be taken: the itinerary through the hamlets of S. Oliva and Monticelli, the Menola hill itinerary –the tower of the forestry service, the more demanding one which leads from the beautiful Montecassino abbey towards Gustav line. Let us remain on the Southern Via Francigena: near the ancient route more intrepid activities than just walking can be enjoyed. Strong, firm hands grasp the ephemeral outcrops of the rock: they are not huge rock faces and famous mountains, but short technical climbs, like the Grotti cliff in the Valle del Salto, 296 climbing routes of Sperlonga and the rock faces behind the Arenauta (Gaeta) beach. The inebriation of the void makes free climbing and
paragliding two of the most spectacular sports of our time: Norma on Lepini, Roccasecca dei Volsci on Ausoni and Sperlonga in the area of Aurunci, are the ideal take-off points for hang-gliding and paragliding aficionados. In Ciociaria the best sites for practicing free flight are Monte Scalambra near Serrone, Tre Ponti Superiori di San Donato Val di Comino and Monte Cairo near Terelle. In the Nord-East Latium, in the province of Rieti, the flying school of Poggio Bustone offers twoseater tourist flights. In the areas where nature and peace reign, almost bordering on religious ascesis, canyoning and rafting on the rivers Nera and Velino are sports which allow you to get close to truly uncontaminated areas. Contigliano, the village that along the Francis Walk, is the centre of extreme aquatic sports. In Valle Santa, Rivodutri, Benedict Walk, you can find organised mountain bike excursions, tourist flights and two-seater paraglide launches. From lakes Lungo and Ripasottile, Nature Paths begin equipped with cabins for bird-watching. The mountains of Terminillo and Leonessa are an important attraction for winter sports enthusiasts. The region is rich in opportunities, ideas and suggestions for enjoying the outdoors during the whole year, you will surely find the activity which best fits you by consulting the site www.visitlazio.com
1,00 € Produced by Verde Network Srl - Genoa, in cooperation with Latium’s Regional Agency of Tourism info@verdenetwork.it - www.verdenetwork.it - www.trekking.it - Texts: S. Ripamonti, E. Bottino, M. Clementi, M. Carlone, C. Rocca. Translations: Milena Antonucci, Avril Mack Jones. Graphics: Chiara Orzo - Printed by: TI.BE.R. Spa - Brescia
Lazio is the crossroads of the most important religious and pilgrimage routes from Eastern and Western Europe, not only historical jubilee spiritual paths, but mostly “walks� on a human scale, an experience of slow tourism, aimed at discovering the true dimension of time and space.
www.visitlazio.com/cammini
photo by Steve McCurry
The Via Francigena in Northern Lazio, Cammino di Francesco, Cammino di Benedetto, the Via Francigena in Southern Lazio