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Walking through time

Parks, castles, monasteries. History and legends from the heart of Lazio

www.regione.lazio.it

Walking through time

Parks, castles, monasteries Discovering history and legends From the heart of Lazio

After “Wh ere History meets th e Sea”, th e guide to th e arch aeological treasures of th e coast of Lazio, we renew our commitment to provide new and updated means of promoting th e Region of Lazio’s tourist activities, both in Italy and abroad. “Walking th rough Time” starts from th e reality of th e environmental systems present in Lazio and aims at creating virtual th ematic systems regarding th e h eart of th e region. In order to meet th e evident demand for auth enticity, local ch aracter and substantiality of th e present tourist demand, th e guide offers particular cultural proposals in addition to th e th eme of environmental values th us enh ancing th e entire artistic, h istorical, and religious h eritage of th e five Lazio regions, also th rough ch arming popular traditions and legends. In th e spirit of an evocative discovery journey th rough th e h istory of our civilization, let us explore parks and nature reserves along interesting and original itineraries, and meet splendid fortified structures among towns, castles and abbeys. Th eir ch arm will guide us th rough art and h istory, faith and legends, nature and traditions, providing a new and unexpected rh yth m to our walks th rough time.

www.regione.lazio.it

INDex

ITINERARY 1

ITINERARY 6

THE UPPER TUSCIA Pag. 4 - 9

THE MONTI SABATINI AND REATINI Pag. 34 - 39

ITINERARY 2

ITINERARY 7

THE MONTI CIMINI Pag. 10 - 15

THE MONTI LUCRETILI AND THE SALTO CICOLANO Pag. 40 - 45

ITINERARY 3

ITINERARY 8

THE MONTI SABATINI Pag. 16 - 21

THE MONTI SIMBRUINI Pag. 46 - 51

ITINERARY 4

ITINERARY 9

THE ROME AREA AND THE TIBER VALLEY Pag. 22 - 27

THE LIRI VALLEY AND THE MAINARDE Pag. 52 - 57

ITINERARY 5

ITINERARY 10

THE CASTELLI ROMANI Pag. 28 - 33

THE MONTI LEPINI, AUSONI AND AURUNCI Pag. 58 - 63 INSERT

GENERAL MAP Pag. I - IV

ITINERARY

THE UPPER TUSCIA

A THOUSAND DISCOVERIES iN THE FOOTSTEPS OF BANDITS We start our journey into the heart of Lazio amidst breathtaking natural scenery in Tuscia, the noble land crossed since antiquity by pilgrims and travelers, scene of power struggles between Guelphs and Ghibellines, rich in traditions and cultures of remote origin.

CASTLES AND FORTRESSES Bolsena, Fortress of the Monaldeschi della Cervara: facade.

fortress to be abandoned in 1460; raids and fires, also at th e h and of th e Lansquenets, caused furth er damage. In 1612, th e structure was assigned to Cardinal Sanesio, bish op of Orvieto, wh o promoted restorations th at proved useless in th e wake of th e terrible earth quake of 1665. Used as a prison and wareh ouse, it was restructured again in 1750 wh en Benedict XIV assigned it in perpetual lease to Captain Florido Zampi. Yet in 1815, th e population itself preferred to destroy th e castle rath er th an leave it to Luciano Bonaparte, prince of nearby Canino. Since th e 1400s th e Monaldesch i Castle h as been named after th e noble and influential family th at, wh en resident in Bolsena, carried out important restoration and expansion on th e structure. From being an ancient medieval castle, th e fortress became an actual fortified aristocratic residence. Perfectly integrated in th e defensive structure of th e town with its quadrangular plan, medieval tower, bridge and moat, it was an outpost dominating th e south west side, th e inh abited area and th e lake. Its defensive function caused th e entrances to th e town and castle to be placed at opposite angles, according to a strategy th at forced all attackers to be exposed on one of th e two fronts. Th anks to restoration started in th e 1970s, th e Fortress is now open to th e public and h ouses a Historical Museum.

T HE MONALDESCHI DELLA CERVAR A FORTR ESS Bolsena THE MEDIEVAL TOWN DOMINATED BY THE SPLENDID R OCCA MONALDESCHI awaits us on th e h ill slopes of th e Monti Volsini overlooking Lake Bolsena, th e largest lake of volcanic origin in Italy. Th e first defensive town wall and watch tower, corresponding to th e main tower of th e present fortress, were built in 1156 over th e remains of ancient Velzna, th e last of th e 12 Etruscan cities conquered by th e Romans (256 BC), and th e Roman town of Volsinii. Th ose were th e days of th e raids of Frederick Barbarossa wh en Pope Hadrian IV ordered th e fortification of all th e towns situated along th e Via Cassia. Th e original fortress was erected in 1295, and in th e early 1300s, following a vaster fortification campaign of th e numerous Monaldesch i castles, members of Cervara faction started living th ere on a regular basis. In 1334 Ermanno Monaldesch i became podestĂ of th e village and consolidated th e auth ority of h is family th at obtained ownersh ip of th e fortress by order of Boniface VIII (1398), and later of Alexander V (1409). Political events and th e decline of th e Monaldesch i (1451) caused th e 4

the upper tuscia getting there ITINERARY 1 A1 ORVIETO

Bolsena Bagnoregio

312

SS 2

Monte Rufeno Bolsena (RM): From north and south : A1 FI734 RM, Orvieto exit, th en SP 71 and junction RISERVA REGIONALE Proceno MONTE RUFENO for Bolsena (Km 15). Oth erwise SS2 Via Acquapendente Cassia th at crosses th e town of Bolsena. Acquapendente (RM): Onano A1 FI-RM from th e north , Fabro Grotte di Castro exit direction Acquapendente. Gradoli M O N T I Oth erwise, from th e south : SS2 VOLSINI Via Cassia to Viterbo, continue to Latera Acquapendente; from th e north : Lago di RISERVA REGIONALE SS2 Via Cassia to Abbadia San Bolsena SELVA DEL LAMONE Valentano Salvatore, Acquapendente. Farnese Capodimonte By train: Viterbo-Acquapendente line. Marta

SS 2

SP 204

Tuscania

ATTIGLIANO

Bomarzo

Vitorchiano

Soriano nel Cimino

VITERBO

RISERVA REGIONALE TUSCANIA

Fiume Marta

SS 2

Nature R eserve of Monte R ufeno Canino From Rome: A1 RM-FI, Orvieto exit Torrent e and directions for Acquapendente Arrone (around Km 30). From Florence: A1 FIRM, Fabro exit and directions for Acquapendente. Access to th e Reserve is situated at Km 136 of th e SS2 Via Cassia, between Viterbo and Siena. Nature R eserve of Selva del Lamone - A1 RM-FI, Orvieto or Orte exit and directions for ViterboMontefiascone-Valentano-Farnese. From Rome: SS2 Via Cassia to Siena, or SS1 Via Aurelia to Montalto di Castro. From Tuscany, follow th e signs for Saturnia, Manciano, Pitigliano, th en continue for Farnese.

RISERVA REGIONALE MONTE CASOLI DI BOMARZO

MONTI CIMINI

F ORT R ES SES

The Monaldeschi della Cervara coat of arms.

the farnese “jewels” Starting from the 11th century, in the area around the lake of Bolsena, power was also held by the Farnese family, originally from the ancient Castrum Farneti, corresponding to today’s Farnese. Owing to the intense political and military activities of Ranuccio the Elder, military defender of th e papacy and nominated Senator of Rome in 1417, the family succeeded in obtaining estates in Tuscia as well as prestige. In time they acquired and built strategic castles, strongholds and fortresses virtually tracing a medieval and Renaissance itinerary in the Lake Valley: Gradoli, with the imposing Palazzo Farnese, a Renaisssance work by Sangallo, Latera and its Farnese Castle in the heart of the medieval town, Valentano, with the Tower and the Fortress, seat of the Study Center on the ducal family, Onano with the Rocca Farnese but famous also for the variety of lentils by the same name, founded in the 16th century, and Farnese, with the remains of an ancient fortress and a prehistoric, archaeological museum. We finally return to the lake at Capodimonte, dominated by the 16th century Rocca Farnese.

H ER A L D RY THE COAT OF ARMS OF THE MONALDESCHI DELLA CERVARA The common practice of “personalizing” and decorating military banners and shields answered the need to distinguish the different corps of the Christian army during the Crusades. The symbols and figures were later adopted by noble families as a sign of distinction and dignity. This is how aristocratic coats of arms and emblems came into being and during the 12th century their use became widespread throughout the West. Following bitter internal struggles, the Monaldeschi counts were divided into four branches: della Cervara, del Cane, della Vipera, dell’Aquila. The coat of arms of the Cervara branch is present in all the pictorial decorations of the numerous family palaces between Umbria and Upper Lazio.

ITINERARY

parks

T HE R EGIONAL PARKS OF MONTE R UFENO AND SELVA DEL L AMONE MASSIVE

VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS HAVE SHAPED THIS

TERRITORY: lakes and

hills, gorges and mountains are evidence of a highly active geology. This is the Lazio section of Tuscia, one of the most beautiful areas in Italy, where the ancient volcanoes of Volsinio, Cimino and Sabatino created the lakes of Bolsena, Bracciano and Vico. The thermal springs of Tolfa were already famous in ancient Roman times, but lovely Caldara di Manziana, situated in a unique natural context that favours the presence of the southernmost birch trees in Europe, also deserves a visit. In the Monti della Tolfa the landscape becomes rougher. It is the setting for many Italian-style western films and a favourite area for horse and cattle breeding, an area of great natural variety with ancient agricultural traditions at a stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s throw from the capital. In this context, the nature reserve of Monte Rufeno is a strip of Lazio caught within the legendary land of Siena, whereas the Selva del Lamone is one of the most interesting and least known protected areas in Lazio.

Above: Lake Bolsena, Bisentina island.

the park in numbers Nature R eserve of Monte R ufeno Management: Municipality of Acquapendente Surface: 2,892 h ectares Instituted: 1983

F L OR A

Nature R eserve of Selva del Lamone Management: Municipality of Farnese Surface: 2,002 h ectares Instituted: 1994

Woods of Turkey oaks, durmasts, Mediterranean bush , along with river bank vegetation along th e Paglia. Numerous varieties of mush rooms are also present, including th e Trich oloma Rufenum, perfectly camouflaged in th e vegetation.

Provincial nature reserve Monte Casoli di Bomarzo Surface: 175 h ectares Instituted: 1999 Tuscania nature reserve Surface: 1,901 h ectares

Above: brushwood vegetation.

The upper tuscia

B OTANY LAND OF FLOWERS An interesting and unusual itinerary leads us into th e h istorical center of Acquapendente wh ere ancient majolica ceramics represent th e area’s typical fragrances and th e plants growing in th e city. In th e Regional Reserve of Monte Rufeno, instead, th e Giardino farmh ouse h osts th e Flower Museum, a must for all enth usiasts.

T YPICAL PRODUCTS

red garlic from PROCENO Th e h ills around th e medieval town of Proceno, abutting th e Tuscan countryside and h ills of Umbria, h ave for centuries favoured th e cultivation of a typical variety of garlic th at h as been acknowledged as a t raditional product of Lazio by th e Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry and given an auth enticated trademark. R ed garlic h as ch unky cloves and a strong aroma, it is a product of th e land obtained with patient cultivation by h and, careful in each of its ph ases, from th e selection of th e bulbs to be planted, to th e control of th e flowers at th e beginning of th e summer, th e drying and th e braiding of th e bulbs in th e ch aracteristic “resta” strings.

FAU N A Th e species of interest th at can be seen h ere are th e dipper, h overing over watercourses in search of food, or th e kingfish er, carefully scanning th e water, ready to plunge and capture unaware fish . Boars, porcupines, badgers and dormice are also common. Above: harrier eagle (Circaetus Gallicus). Left: dipper.

ITINERARY

ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES

T HE A BBEY S AN S EPOLCR O Acquapendente

THE BASILICA OF THE S ANTO S EPOLCRO, SYMBOL OF A CQUAPENDENTE, was involved over th e centuries in th e fate of wh at was founded as th e strongh old city of th e Empire of Otto I. Th e Basilica was built around th e year 1000 above th e sepulch re of Math ilda of Westph alia (895-968), Ottoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s moth er, as an h omage to th e Sepulch re of Ch rist in Jerusalem. Seat of th e ancient Benedictine abbey, it was annexed to th e House of th e Templars, th e military-monastic order of knigh ts created to defend h oly places and protect pilgrims (12th century). Th e elegant Romanesque-style Basilica was consecrated by Eugene III in 1149. Between th e 12th and early 15th centuries, Acquapendente, Basilica of San Sepolcro. Acquapendente passed under th e rule of emperors, popes, Orvieto and Siena before being finally assigned to Romanesque aspect. Today we can admire its beautiful th e Diocese of Orvieto in th e 13th century. Th is was its and elegant facade and the interior on three levels. period of maximum economic prosperity and th e Paintings on panels decorating the pilasters on the left Basilica was decorated and enrich ed with works of art. side of the central nave illustrate the history of the In 1649, following th e Basilica: the arrival of Queen destruction of th e city of Mathilda, the departure for Castro, Acquapendente the 1st crusade (1096-1099), became a bish opâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seat and Eugene III consecrating the th e Basilica of San Sepolcro church (1149), the destrucwas elevated to th e rank of tion of the facade in World cath edral, undergoing radiWar II. Among other valucal arch itectural transforable decorative elements, two mations. In th e course of bas-reliefs by the school of Agostino di Duccio (1418th e 18th century th e original 1481), incorporated into the Romanesque structure was remodeled both in its facade staircase leading to the presand interior, and redone in bytery, deserve to be menAcquapendente, Basilica of San Sepolcro: the church tower. th e Baroque style, in th e tioned along with the elegant typical taste of Upper Lazio. More recently, during the altar in glazed and painted terracotta by Jacopo Beneventano (1522). Besides the remains of St. Ermete, Second World War, (June 1944), the complex was seriously damaged by the collapse of the left nave, and the Basilica also preserves those of St. Anthony, St. restoration h as brough t it back to its primitive Catherine and St. Augustine (13th century). 8

The upper tuscia

Useful info CASTLE OF BOLSENA

R egional R eserve of Monte R ufeno P.zza G. Fabriano, 17 01021 Acquapendente (VT) Ph . +390763733442

R egional R eserve Monte Casoli di Bomarzo c/o Provincia di VT Via Aurelio Saffi, 49 01100 Viterbo Ph . +390761313222 +390761313720

R egional R eserve Selva del Lamone C.so Vittorio Emanuele III, 395 01010 Farnese (VT) Ph . +390761458741

R egional R eserve of Tuscania c/o Comune 01017 Tuscania (VT) Ph . +390761313222 +390761313720 www.parch ilazio.it www.parks.it

Left: Acquapendente, the Romanesque crypt.

Piazza Monaldeschi - 01023 Bolsena (VT) Opening times: Winter (from November) Wed -Th u - Fri: 10am-1pm Sat - Sun - Holidays - Pre-h olidays: 10am-1pm / 3pm-6pm Summer (from mid July): all week 10am-11pm Spring - Autumn: all week 10am-1pm / 4pm-7pm Closed Monday. BASILICA OF SAN SEPOLCR O Acquapendente - Ph. +390763733442 Info Comune Acquapendente. Open all day. FLOWER MUSEUM Acquapendente - Ph. 0763 730246 - 0763 7309224 email: info@museodelfiore.it museo.fiore@tin.it www.museodelfiore.it Director: Dott. Gianluca Forti Freephone number 800.411.834

H I ST ORY the via francigena

A RT THE ROMANESQUE CRYPT The Basilica contains one of the most important Romanesque crypts in Italy, erected in the second half of the 10th century above the remains of the ancient aedicule of the Holy Sepulchre (9th century). The division of the space is especially interesting: three transversal naves and nine longitudinal ones with a play of 22 columns surmounted by rich capitals with stylistic elements of northern origin. The aedicule is at the center of the crypt, closed by a pyramidal cover with a rectangular base and, according to tradition, contains two small lithic fragments from the column of the flagellation of Christ stained with his own blood.

Considered one of th e most beautiful tourist itineraries in Italy, in th e Middle Ages it was th e privileged route connecting th e cities of th e Italic kingdom with th e world beyond th e Alps, 2,500 km interspersed with rest stops, including Acquapendente and Bolsena. Th e itinerary met th e need of th e Lombards to connect th e capital of th eir kingdom - Pavia - with th e south ern duch ies by means of a protected path on th e “Monte Bardone Pass”, Mons Longobardum, today’s Cisa. With th e rise of Frankish domination, it was named “Via Francigena”, th at is, “road originating in France” and represented th e main connection of th e Holy Roman Empire with Rome. In th e 9th century it became compulsory for arch bish ops to go to Rome to receive from th e h ands of th e pope th e pallium, a wool sh awl adorned with a cross, symbolic of th e official investiture. In th e travel journal of th e Arch bish op of Canterbury, Acquapendente is mentioned for th e first time as a stop on th e Via Francigena. Sigeric actually went to Rome in 994 at th e time of Pope Joh n VI and in th e list of stops made on th e way back to h is bish op’s seat, indicatesd 79 “submansiones” between Rome and th e Ch annel. It became th e route for pilgrimages to Rome and th e tomb of St. Peter and for th is reason was also known as “Romea” road, used by important travelers and as a veh icle for cultural and commercial exch anges.

ITINERARY

the MONTI CIMINI

A TIME MACHINE TAKES US BACK TO AN AGE OF GREAT SPLENDOUR The beautiful land of Viterbo awaits us with its immense and refined cultural heritage. Every ruler, papal and secular, left a deep mark in the history of the area and its people. The fascinating evolution of a land that between the Middle Ages and the Renaissance was renowned beyond the Italian border.

Caprarola: Palazzo Farnese.

enced th e urban design of th e town of Caprarola, wh ich is dominated by its imposing presence. Numerous painters and artists were summoned to decorate th e palace, seat of an active court life and frequented by nobles, men of letters, artists and musiCASTLES AND FORTRESSES cians, in accordance with th e fame of th e Farnese as great patrons. Th e h onorary entrance, accessed by a double staircase, h as a great effect, as does th e wonderful spiral staircase, created by Vignola and frescoed by A ntonio Tempesti (1580-1583), leading to th e PALAZZO AR NESE â&#x20AC;&#x153;piano nobileâ&#x20AC;?, wh ere th e lord resided, detach ed from Caprarola th e pettiness of daily existence. Th e h alls of th e palace are decorated by a precious A MONG THE MANY ESTATES AND PALACES OWNED BY THE cycle of Mannerist sch ool frescoes. Th e paintings in th e Hall of th e Labours of Hercules, and in th e NOBLE FAMILY ORIGINALLY FROM ANCIENT FARNETI (9th century) in Tuscia, th e Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola is Ch apel, with its circular plan and valuable marble doubtless th e most magnificent and effectively repre- and terracotta floor, and frescoes with biblical th emes, are by Federico Zuccari (1566-1569). Taddeo sents th eir power th at expanded th rough out Italy and Zuccari (1560-1566) painted th e frescoes in th e Hall even Europe for seven centuries. A family of great patrons, men of arms, diplomats and ecclesiastics of th e Farnese Deeds, celebrating events in th e life of Cardinal Alessandro in a context rich ly decorated wh ose exemplary climb to power brough t th em to th e foreground of th e Renaissance political and religious with stucco. Also by Taddeo Zuccari, th e Hall of th e Council of Trent, with large frescoed panscene. Th e magnificence of th e papacy of els recalls th e convocation of th e famous Paul III, along with h is influence on h is Council and events in th e papacy of Paul grandson, cardinal Alessandro Farnese, was III, along with stucco and arabesque decoa determining factor. In th e 16th century th e rations on th e ceiling. Th e Hall of latter erected a princely residence above Aurora, of th e Wool Mills and of th e foundations of a fortress designed by Solitude, h ave frescoed ceilings with fine Antonio da Sangallo th e Younger. Th e perspectives. Th e Hall of th e Globes, with Palazzo, a wonderful example of late frescoes on th e ceiling by Giovanni Renaissance arch itecture and a monument Frescoes of the Antonio da Varese and R affaellino da of great h istorical and artistic value, was Hall of the Guard. designed by Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola. His perspec- R eggio (1574), represent th e planetary system and tive studies and projects, aimed at exalting th e struc- were stunning for th e period with th eir scenograph ic ture and its visibility with in th e inh abited area, influ- geograph ical maps painted on th e walls with th e four

the Monti cimini ATTIGLIANO

ITINERARY 2

continents known at th e time. Th e outside area also represented th e power of th e family in a perfect Renaissance interpretation of open space visible in th e great park, developed on different levels in th e rear of th e palace. Fountains, nymph aeums, and valuable decorative elements, Norchia both sculptural and in mosaic, reveal a clear tendency towards Vetralla Baroque. bis SS 1 Immersed in th e elegant park is th e Palazzina del Piacere with its courtyard and loggia adorned by frescoes.

Vitorchiano

SP 2

ORTE

VITERBO

Soriano nel Cimino

Monte Cimino 1053

Vignanello

MONTI CIMINI S.Martino al Cimino

MAGLIANO SABINA

MONUMENTO NATURALE PIAN SANT’ANGELO

RISERVA REGIONALE LAGO DI VICO Lago di Vico SS

Caprarola

3 SS

Sutri

3 49 SP

PARCO REGIONALE ANTICHISSIMA CITTÀ DI SUTRI

towards Vetralla, at Cura turn right for San Martino. Suburban Park of Marturanum - A1 MI-NA exit Orte, indications for Viterbo and SS2 Via Cassia direction Rome, turn for Barbarano. In alternative from Rome, SS1 Via Aurelia direction Tarquinia, continue on SS1 Bis for Monteromano-Barbarano. By train: FS line RomeViterbo, Vico Matrino station. Nature R eserve of Lak e Vico - A1 MI-NA exit Orte, direction Viterbo. From Rome: SS2 Via Cassia direction Viterbo, directions for Caprarola. From Viterbo: Via Cimina direction San Martino-Caprarola.

The Farnese coat of arms.

THE FARNESE COAT OF ARMS AND DEVICE Palazzo Farnese is an authentic gallery of dynastic emblems; the coats of arms of about forty aristocratic families that over seven centuries became related to the Farnese are represented in the frescoes. The Farnese coat of arms stands out with its fleur-de-lis, symbol of the double character of the family, secular and ecclesiastic. In time heraldic mannerisms, inspired by mythological themes, led to variations in the decoration, but the shield, the pale blue fleur-de-lis in a gold field, the rampant unicorn and the plumed helmet remained unchanged. The Palazzo also contains the “Farnese devices”, an interesting artistic and cultural phenomenon, popular since antiquity. These concise images accompanied by mottoes represent the Renaissance taste for allegory between the 15th and 16th centuries. While the coat of arms was a distinctive symbol of the family, the “device” stood for the personal goal of an individual member through a declaration of intentions, thus acquiring a moral value. In the Palazzo they are everywhere, among the stuccoes and frescoes, as a representation of the goals of the illustrious Farnese.

Fabrica di Roma

Civita Castellana

Capranica

Caprarola (VT) - A1 MI-NA exit Magliano Sabina towards Civita Castellana, directions for Fabrica di Roma-Caprarola. From Rome: SS2 Via Cassia direction Viterbo, junction for Caprarola. Soriano del Cimino (VT) - A1 MI-NA exit Orte. SS204 direction Viterbo and junction for Soriano. From Rome: SS2 Via Cassia direction Viterbo and junction for Caprarola. Follow th e Via Cimina for Canepina Vignanello. For th e location of th e “Rocking Boulder” continue SW on a secondary road. San Martino al Cimino (VT) - A1 MI-NA exit Orte and SS204 direction Viterbo. From Rome: SS2 Via Cassia

Magliano Sabina

Ronciglione

Barbarano Romano

getting there

PARCO REGIONALE MARTURANUM

H ER A L D R Y

Orte

CU R I OSI TI ES THE ROCKING BOULDER On th e rocky plane of th e Monte Cimino stands a curious boulder, known already in antiquity to th e erudite Marcus Terentius Varro (116-27 BC) and to the naturalist Pliny the Elder (2379 AD) who called it “naturae miraculum”. This enormous block of trachyte, an eruptive rock common in the volcanic areas of central-southern Italy, weighs about 200 tons. It is 8.5mt long, 6.5mt wide, 3mt tall and has a volume of about 100 cubic metres. In the area it is known as “sasso naticarello”, and it maintains its balance even when it is pushed and caused to rock.

ITINERARY

parks

THE R EGIONAL PAR K OF MARTUR ANUM AND OF THE ANTICHISSIMA CITTÀ DI S UTR I AND THE R EGIONAL R ESERVE OF L AKE V ICO UPPER LAZIO

WAS SHAPED BY VOLCANOES IN THEIR

resulting in the lower range of the Monti Cimini and in the beautiful lakes of Bolsena, Mezzano, Vico, Bracciano and Martignano that form a fascinating landscape. Evidence of human presence, Etruscan and Roman, blends with flourishing vegetation favoured by the acid composition of the volcanic soil. The area is enriched by deep valleys carved into the tufa by wind and water. An idea of the “silva cimina” that actually hindered the expansion of the Romans, can be had by climbing up the Venere and Fogliano mountains and looking over Lake Vico. This is one of the most beautiful and best preserved lake basins in central Italy, born of an active volcano a million years ago which today feeds numerous thermal-mineral springs. Not too far from h ere, th e regional park of Marturanum and of the Antich issima Città di Sutri offer an unforgettable glimpse of Etruscan Lazio. Tufa gorges, necropoli and walls remind us of the people who lived here before us, and the amphitheatre of Sutri, entirely dug out of tufa, is truly spectacular. A unique environment of exceptional value with uncontaminated wildlife. EXPLOSIVE PHASE

Lake Vico.

the park in numbers

F L OR A

Suburban Park of Marturanum Management: Municipality of Barbarano Romano Surface: 1,220 h ectares - Instituted: 1984 Urban Park Antich issima Città di Sutri Management: Municipality of Sutri Surface: 7 h ectares - Instituted: 1988 Nature R eserve of Lak e Vico Management: Municipality of Caprarola (VT) Surface: 3,300 h ectares - Instituted: 1982 Natural Monument of Pian Sant’Angelo Management: Natural Monument of Pian Sant’Angelo Surface: 254 h ectares - Instituted: 2000

Woods of beech , Turkey oak and h uge ch estnut trees cover most of th e slopes of th e ancient crater of Vico. Th e so-called depressed beech wood (because of th e lake climate it grows at a lower-th an-average altitude, h ence th e name) of th e Fondo delle Tavole is a breath taking sigh t. Above: Anacamptis Pyramidalis.

the MONTI CIMINI

TYPICAL PRODUCTS

CHESTNUTS AND HAZELNUTS FROM MONTE CIMINO Pride of th e Viterbo territory, th e Chestnut of th e Cimini is considered by qualified experts among th e best in Italy. Its quality is guaranteed by th e cultivation area, and was appreciated already in th e early 20th century wh en it was exported to Paris for th e production of Marron Glacés. A traditional product of Lazio, recognized by th e Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, it is th e main ingredient of typical dish es such as chick pea and chestnut soup and ch estnut cak e. Tech nology and tradition coexist in th e cultivation and production of hazelnuts or “nocch ie”, th at are found wh ole, crush ed, or in a paste in sweets and seasonings. Th eir pleasant flavour, average weigh t (12 gr.) and excellent conservation properties make Cimini h azelnuts especially appreciated th rough out Italy.

FAUN A Th e ch arm of th e wood is intact as proven by th e elusive presence of wildcats, martens and badgers. Birdwatch ers find one of th eir favourite spots in th e Pantanacce, th e reign of ducks, loons, h erons and limicolous species.

Above: badger (Meles taxus). Left: loon.

ITINERARY

ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES

T HE CISTER CIAN A BBEY San Martino al Cimino THE TOWN OF S AN MARTINO AL CIMINO is a splendid example of 17th century Baroque urban design. It is reach ed th rough th e Porta Viterbese, designed by Borromini during his exile in Viterbo and modeled on the gate of Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome. The main attraction of the town is nonetheless the Cistercian Abbey with its gothic architecture of great historical and artistic merit. Ancient sources confirm the presence of an early religious complex in San Martino in Monte, site of the Abbey. Documents mention the deed of gift of the land (838) to the Abbey of Farfa and the presence in the church of an ancient column (the first on the right of the central nave towards the altar) dating from the 9th century, with the coat of arms of cardinal Francesco Todeschini Piccolomini on the capital. Since then it was inhabited by a Benedictine community that became considerably important in the 9th century, thanks to the attention of Gregory VII. Th e first Cistercian monks arrived in San Martino from th e convent of San Sulpizio in 1151 by order of Eugene III (1145-1153) and later from th e Abbey of Pontigny (1207), wh en th e structure was granted to th em with a papal bull by Innocent III. In addition to reinforcing th e small preexisting religious community, th e French monks establish ed th eir moth er h ouse th ere. Th anks to a contribution of th e pope, in 1208 th e construction of th e abbey began according to a project by Cistercian arch itects of th e Burgundian sch ool. Th e ch urch was consecrated in 1225 and in 1305, during th e pontificate of Clement V, th e entire abbey complex was completed. After a period of splendour due to Joh n II (1213-1228), th e most important abbot, starting from th e 14th century th e abbey underwent a ph ase of crisis and th efts of goods th at ended with th e expulsion of th e monks. Th e

San Martino al Cimino, Cistercian Abbey: facade.

rebirth of th e Cistercian community occurred in 1462 with Pope Pius II (1458-1464) wh o entrusted th e administration of th e Abbey to h is neph ew, cardinal Francesco Todesch ini Piccolomini (future Pope Pius III). Controlled by th e Piccolomini until 1564, under Pope Pius IV (1560-1565) th e abbey returned under papal auth ority. In 1645 Cardinal Pamph ili (later Pope Innocent X) carried out a revaluation of th e principality of San Martino al Cimino and granted th e title of Princess to Olimpia Maidalch ini, widow of h is broth er Pamph ilio, wh o bough t th e farms and also obtained th e Ch urch ’s independence from th e Bish op of Viterbo. A woman of great artistic and intellectual sensitivity, sh e started significant works of restoration and revaluation of th e urban structure of th e town entrusted to Borromini. Th e Monaste ry became a fortified complex with bold ch anges in th e destination of its rooms. Th is unique example of goth ic arch itecture h as reach ed present times in all its splendour. Th e arch itectural layout, dominated by Cistercian dictates, appears furth er evolved th an oth ers in Lazio and sh ows th e influence of medieval Viterbo. Th e best preserved parts are th e cloister, th e two libraries, th e capitular h all, th e refectory, th e abbot’s quarters, and th e monk s’ cells. Th e Ch urch of San Martino, focus of th e monastic life, is a sublime representation of th e Cistercian style, elaborated th rough elements of th e Burgundian style, th at give it more sobriety and ligh t. Th e typical facade, with 14

the MONTI CIMINI

Useful info PALAZZO FAR NESE

R egional Park of Marturanum c/o Comune Piazza G. Marconi 01010 Barbarano Romano (VT) Ph . +390761414507

Monumento Pian Sant’Angelo WWF Italia - Via Po, 25/c 00198 Roma Ph .+39333/7576283 email: piansantangelo@wwf.it www.parch ilazio.it - www.parks.it

R egional Park of th e Antich issima Città di Sutri Comune, Piazza del Comune, 32 01015 Sutri (VT) Ph . +390761634660

Caprarola Ph . +390761646052 Visits: 8.30am-6.45pm Except Mondays, January 1, May 1, December 25 ABBAZIA CISTER CENSE San Martino al Cimino Ph . +390761379803 Open every day until evening.

R egional Park of Lak e Vico Scuderie di Palazzo Farnese 01032 Caprarola (VT) Ph . +390761647444

Right: San Martino al Cimino, Cistercian Abbey: ruins.

H I ST ORY two effective 17th century bell towers, as a goth ic style multi-lancet window and th e apse h as a polygonal sh ape in th e exterior and elegant single-lancet windows. Th e interior sh ows austere goth ic forms imported from France, with a Latin cross, cross vaults and th ree naves with ogive arch es supported by pillars and columns. Th e ch oir is a unique example in Cistercian buildings in Italy, as is th e presence of gravestones, placed later in th e presbytery (Princess Olimpia Pamph ili) and on th e floor of th e central nave (th e Bish op of Viterbo). Th e Baroque railing with th e Pamph ili insignia and th e 17th century baptismal fount are worth mentioning.

BENEDICTINES AND CISTERCIANS Th e founder of th e Benedictine order was Benedict from Norcia (480-547), fath er of Western monasticism. He founded th e first Benedictine monastery in Montecassino, wh ere in 540 h e dictated th e “Rule” th at was perpetuated in th e communities of h is order for centuries. Poverty, h umility, austerity were and still are at th e base of th e life of th e monks, devoted to work and prayer. A period of intense diffusion in th e 6th century was followed by a crisis in th e order, th e reform of wh ich resulted in th e founding of th e order of th e Cistercian monk s (named after th e French town of Citeaux, ancient Cistercium), founded in 1097 by St. R obert de Molesme and spread th rough out Europe by St. Bernard. Th e order aimed at recuperating th e value of Ch ristianity and returning to absolute respect of th e Benedictine Rule by stressing th e significance of manual labour and poverty. In Italy th eir presence determined th e reclamation of uncultivated and malarial land and h ad a decisive role in th e social and economic development of areas of th e abbey complexes.

ITINERARY

the MONTI SABATINI

Romeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Appeal Reached As Far As These Ancient Towns Just a few kilometers outside of Rome, a fascinating blend of age-old paths and charming views, and layer upon layer of history and culture. A flourishing natural environment of ancient volcanic origin provides the setting for charming walks and excursions.

CASTLES AND FORTRESSES

T HE ODESCALCHI CASTLE

Bracciano, Odescalchi Castle: facade with tower.

Bracciano

and feasts, a meeting place for men of letters and sch olars. In time th e Orsini possessions grew and in 1560 Pius IV raised Bracciano to th e rank of duch y with a papal bull. Th e period of even greater splendour th at ensued ended only in 1696 wh en th e last Orsini duke, Flavio, sold th e entire duch y to th e Odescalch i family in order to emerge from th e financial straits h is own family h ad fallen into. Th e Odescalch i, originally from th e Como area, took ch arge of th e Castle and its upkeep with restorations, additions and embellish ments. Its excellent condition still allow visits along an itinerary th rough th ree th ousand square metres, th anks to th e presence of th e Castle Museum, instituted by Prince Don Livio IV Odescalch i. Th e irregular structure h as a square plan and consists of two asymmetrical nuclei, built at different times and connected by an inner courtyard and th e long bay for rounds connecting th e Castleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s six towers. Th e minor quadrilateral, corresponding to th e Orsini structure, develops around th e courtyard th at provides access to th e kitch en and service area. Th e beautiful rooms on th e main and upper levels are still complete with period furnish -

ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL FEUDAL RESIDENCES IN ITALY, th is military strongh old was erected over th e remains of an ancient Etruscan town. It rises on th e south ern sh ore of Lake Bracciano and towers over th e medieval town and th e valley towards th e lake. Th e ancient nucleus of th e castle originally belonged to th e lords of th e Castrum Brach ianum, as indicated in a document dating from 1234 (from th e Orsini arch ive) and containing a list of th e family possessions, also including th e ancient Fortress of th e Prefetti of Vico. Th e Castrum was passed on to th e Arciospedale of Santo Spirito in Rome (1290) and was also used as a strongh old for th e Bretons in th eir period of conquests. In 1419 Pope Martin V ceded th e estate to th e Orsini family wh o brough t new lustre not only to th eir residence but also to th e medieval town. In 1470 Napoleone Orsini began th e construction of a castle, completed by h is son Gentil Virginio, above th e preexisting Fortress of Vico, ancient seat of th e Prefect. Bracciano Castle th us became a splendid Renaissance court, expression of th e power and patronage of its owners, famous for lavish banquets 16

the MONTI SABATINI Lago

Faleria Calcata

Rignano Flaminio

Mazzano Romano

SS 3

Campagnano di Roma

Morlupo Capena FIANO ROMANO

Castelnuovo di Porto

Sacrofano

Bracciano

SP 4

Monte Vittoria 364

Cesano

Formello

1 AFiume

Tevere

SS 3

Anguillara Sabazia

Monte Santo 430

PARCO REGIONALE VEJO

4 SS SETTEBAGNI

ROMA

AR IA

SAL

TE BA GN I

G.R .A.

SET

BIS

is MIN IA

2 SIA

A. R. G.

SIA

CAS

Fiu me Arr one

ADISPOLI

FLA

Isola Farnese

S. Maria di Galeria

CAS

Cerveteri Bracciano and Anguillara Sabazia Ceri C -L (RM) - A12 Roma-Civitavecch ia or A1 2 SS1 Via Aurelia, Cerveteri exit, directions for Bracciano and Anguillara. In alternative SS2 Via Cassia, junction for Bracciano-Anguillara. Canale Monterano (RM) - A12 Roma-Civitavecch ia, Cerveteri Exit, continue for Bracciano, junction for Manziana. In alternative SS1 Via Aurelia and after Cerenova turn righ t for Manziana Valle del Treja Park - A1 Milano-Napoli, Magliano Sabina exit and SS3 Via Flaminia for Civita CastellanaCalcata. From Rome: SS3 Via Flaminia, exit at Rignano Flaminio for Calcata or SS2 Via Cassia and Junction for Mazzano Romano. ERVETERI

ITINERARY 3

Nepi

PARCO REGIONALE VALLE DEL TREJA

Martignano

BOSCO CASTAGNETA

Sasso

getting there

Bracciano

Civita Castellana

3 SS

della MANZIANA

SP 311

2 SS

di Vico i ngs, decorated lacunar ceilings, SS valuable paintings and frescoes, 2 such as th ose in th e Papal R oom wh ere Pope Sixtus V was a guest, painted by th e Bassano Romano Z uc car i b rot h e rs; th e Orsini R oom and th e M O N T I S A B AT I N I R oom of Isabella. On Oriolo Romano Trevignano Romano th e outside, th e perfectly Tolfa Eremo RISERVA REGIONALE Montevirginio PARCO REGIONALE MONTERANO Canale groomed secret garden BRACCIANO-MARTIGNANO Manziana Monterano sh ould not be missed. Lago di Lago di MACCHIA

Ara Nova TORRIMPIETRA

SS 1

BOCCEA

Park of Vejo - A1 MI-NA exit Fiano Romano direction Capena-Campagnano di Roma. Consular roads SS2 Via Cassia, SS2 bis Via Cassia bis, SS3 Via Flaminia cross th e Park. By train: FM3 Rome-Cesano for th e west side of th e Park; urban railway Roma-Sacrofano for th e east side.

Left: Bracciano, Odescalchi Castle: the Armour Hall.

CU R I OS I TI ES

CU R I OS I T I ES

The Armour Hall

THE GREEN ROADS ALONG BRACCIANO LAKE

Visiting these magnificent rooms in the Odescalchi Castle is like travelling back in time, among motionless warriors in shining armour. The room in fact contains a rich collection of cuirasses and weapons from the 15th to the 17 th centuries, including a 15th century Milanmade equestrian suit of armour for tournaments and two German-made suits of armour for tournaments. Used by knights as protection in combat until the 18th century, armour traditionally included all defense devices: helmet, shield, cuirass and greave. Made of bronze, copper, steel and leather, in the Middle Ages artisan masters used to fabricate miniature suits of armour as toys for children.

Dirt roads and path s reserved exclusively for ecological mobility; Bracciano Lake offers cycle-touring enth usiasts th e possibility of circumnavigating its perimeter along its sh ores. A ring of 36 kilometers, paved and with out difficulties, is ideal even for non-pros. A celebration of alternative itineraries offering: nature, art, h istory, ench anting landscapes and unusual views of th e castles of Br acciano and Anguillara.

ITINERARY

parks

T HE R EGIONAL PARKS OF T HE T R EJA VALLEY, V EIO AND THE N ATUR E R ESERV E OF MONTER ANO A LAKE WITH AN ENDLESS HORIZON and Etruscan cities lost among woods and gorges evoke the unique and mysterious landscape of the Monti Sabatini. The great lake of Bracciano and the smaller uncontaminated one of Martignano occupy a low depression (over 165 meters) resulting from the filling in of a volcanic cone. These waters are surrounded by a mosaic of fields and lovely historical centres that make it one of the most charming areas in southern Tuscia. Not too far south lie the mysterious ancient cities of Veio (Romeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ancient rival) and Monterano, the most beautiful lost city in Italy, with its cluster of walls covered with ivy, churches, castles and an extraordinary arched aqueduct. On this site, excursionists are captivated by a sense of isolation, of the effect of time on the works of man and by the way nature takes over abandoned constructions. Two regional parks and a nature reserve protect this natural and cultural patrimony of Lazio.

Lake Martignano.

the park in numbers Suburban Park of th e Treja Valley Management: Consortium of th e Municipalities of Mazzano Romano and Calcata Surface: 1000 h ectares - Instituted: 1982

F L OR A

R egional Nature Park of th e Bracciano and Martignano lak e complex Management: Regional Nature Park Surface: 16,682 h ectares - Instituted: 1999

Ferns and maidenhair cover the gorges of the ditches and streams of the park of Veio; the sunnier areas are filled with woods of holm-oak and durmast, Turkey oak and bay-oak.

Park of Veio Management: Regional Board Park of Veio Surface: 14, 984 h ectares - Instituted: 1997 Nature R eserve of Monterano Management: Municipality of Canale di Monterano Surface: 1,084 h ectares - Instituted: 1988

Above: Veronica Chamaedrys.

t h e M O N T I S A B AT I N I

TYPICAL PRODUCTS

“Scorsone”, The Summer Truffle In th e calcareous ground under th e oaks, h olm-oaks and h azels, it is possible to find a quality product of th e Monti Sabatini, th e Summer Truffle or “Scorsone” (Tuber Aestivium Vitt). Th e fruiting body varies in size from th at of a nut to th e th at of a grapefruit, its pulp is beige in colour and becomes more intense as it ripens. It h as a pleasant flavour and sligh t fragrance, it is less valuable th an oth er varieties and it ripens from May to Autumn. If it is enjoyed wh ile fresh , it sh ould be considered a good truffle.

FAUN A Loons and cormorants, widgeons and poch ards, multicoloured bee-eaters along with th ousands of coots, and rarer species of divers, different varieties of dun-birds th at increasingly populate th e park of th e Lake Bracciano.

Above: bee-eater. Left: pochard.

ITINERARY

ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES

T HE MONASTERY OF MONTE V IR GINIO Canale Monterano THIS SIMPLE, ENCHANTING MONASTERY WAS FOUNDED IN 1688, on th e estate of Canale Monterano, property of th e Orsini family. In th e early 1600s an Orsini family member, Virginio, broth er of th e Duke of Bracciano Paolo Giordano, was in fact a Carmelite priest. Having renounced all h is possessions, Virginio ordered h is powerful broth er to make a large donation to th e Order of th e Barefooted Carmelites for th e construction of a monastery. In 1615 th e tenant farmers were expropriated from th e medieval town on th e north ern side of Monte Sassano and in exch ange obtained new lands and pastures in th e area known since th en as Monte Virginio. Construction began in 1651 and th e solemn monastery complex was completed by 1668. Th e structure h as a rectangular plan; th e second floor is occupied by th e monksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cells and th e rooms for community activities. Th e large cloister at th e centre provided access to th e service areas. Th e Ch urch was inaugurated later, in 1670. Th e Roman Province of th e Barefooted Carmelites contributed to th e development of th e monastic community of Monte Virginio th at soon came to manage a prosperous agricultural activity th at guaranteed its economic autonomy for a long time. Yet h ard times were upon th e Carmelites: in 1810 th ey abandoned th e monastery owing to th e suppression of monastic orders enforced by th e Napoleonic empire, and returned th ere in 1817. Governmental persecutions of monastic orders led to anoth er suppression in 1873 by th e civil auth ority. Bough t on auction by Prince Altieri, th e monastery was partially returned to th e Order in 1875 and was redeemed entirely only in 1893, th anks to a total payment of ÂŁ.70,000 made to th e Prince. Set in a lovely location on th e slopes of Monte

Canale Monterano, Monastery of Monte Virginio: facade.

Virginio, th e complex dominates th e surrounding valleys in an atmosph ere of peace and tranquillity, th e same one th e monks found wh en th ey settled th ere to pray and contemplate God. Th e individual dimension found its expression in silence, fasting, th e lectio divina, th at lead to th e ach ievement of ascetism, individual in silent prayer; collective in th e celebration of th e Hours and th e community liturgy. Th e park around th e complex and th e presence today of only four monks are th e most stirring elements in a discreet visit to th e Monastery. 20

t h e M o n t i s a b at i n i

Useful info ODESCALCHI CASTLE

R egional Park of th e Valle del Treja Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, 4 01030 Calcata (VT) Ph . +390761587617

R egional Park of Vejo Via Castelnuovo di Porto, 14 Sacrofano Ph .+39069042774 Free ph one number 800.727.822

R egional Park of Bracciano - Martignano c/o Comune di Bracciano 00062 Bracciano (RM) Via Saffi, 4/a Ph . +390699806262

Nature R eserve of Monterano 00060 Canale Monterano (RM) Piazza Tubingen, 1 Ph .+39069962724 www.parch ilazio.it

00062 Bracciano (Rm) Piazza Mazzini, 14 Ph ./fax +390699802380 Visits: April-September (summer sch edule) 11-12am/ 3-6pm; 9-12:30am/ 3-6:30pm Sat and h olidays October-March (winter sch edule) 10-12am/3-5pm; 10-12:30am/ 3-5:30pm Sat and h olidays. Closed Mon MONASTERY OF MONTE V IR GINIO 00060 Canale Monterano (RM) Th e Ch urch is open to th e public

Canale Monterano, Monastery of Monte Virginio: coat of arms in wood.

H I ST ORY the barefooted carmelites

C U R I OSI TI ES

Th e Carmelite Order was founded in th e 12th century as a hermit order strongly devoted to contemplation. In 1156 th e Fath ers settled on Mount Carmel in Palestine - h ence th eir name - wh ere th ey establish ed th eir Rule with th e Patriarch of Jerusalem, Alberto. Turned away by th e Muslims, th ey returned to Europe and in 1247 were turned into th e Mendicant Order of Our Lady of Carmel. At th at time th e Ch urch establish ed th at contemplation was to be joined with mission work; th e Rule was consequently modified and th e order divided into th ree branch es: conventual, observant and tertiary. Tied to th e mystic concept of isolation, after centuries of uncertain application of th e Rule, th e monks went back to practicing a h ermit life according to th e reform of th e Order establish ed in 1538 by St. Theresa of Jesus and th anks to th e work of Saint John of the Cross, founder of th e observant branch of th e Barefooted Carmelites.

devilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bridge Th e countryside between Manziana and Canale Monterano h as preserved for centuries an arch aeological finding of truly impressions proportions. Th e remains of an ancient aqueduct h ave in fact left a bridge of uncertain date (Etruscan or perh aps Roman), 100 metres long, 4 metres wide, with powerful arch es 9 metres h igh . Beyond its obvious h istorical and artistic merit, th e bridge h as a feature th at h as always been found fascinating. Th is colossus is formed by h uge blocks h eld togeth er with out mortar and each one of th em measures 2mt by 1mt . Popular belief attributes th e building of th is majestic, mysterious structure to th e Devil wh o, according to tradition, wish ed to sh ow h is powers to a skeptical monk h e casually met near by. Th ere are th ose wh o prepared to vow th e devilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s h and is in th at bridge!

ITINERARY

the rome area and the tiber valley

EVEN GARIBALDI’S SOLDIERS CAME THROUGH HERE As we approach the heart of Rome’s province, the area around us seems suspended between space and time. From an ancient Roman presence to the heroic deeds of Garibaldi’s troops, nothing has affected the deep identity of these mountains, countryside, cities and towns.

CASTLES AND FORTRESSES

T HE OR SINI PALACE Monterotondo

Monterotondo: facade of Palazzo Orsini.

ish th e rooms of th e renovated structure. Th e influence of th e family was so great th at in th e second h alf of th e 16th century two descendents, Franciotto and Raimondo, approved a new and more modern statute for th e well-being of th e community. Th e Orsini coat of arms, th e five-petal rose, was th us joined with th e new seal of th e town of Monterotondo. In 1626 th e family was forced to sell th eir farms in Monterotondo to th e Barberini family wh o obtained th e title of duch y for it. Th e town walls were rebuilt and enlarged, and th e entire town and palace were transformed from fortification to an auth entic aristocratic residence. It later passed on to th e Grillo family and th en to th e Boncompagni in 1814; today it is th e seat of th e Town Hall. Th e large door leads into th e courtyard containing a s plendid 16 th century well. Th e only surviving tower is a donjon used at one time as a prison, alth ough with its h eigh t of 40 metres it served above all as a watch tower. Th e royal staircase provides access to floors occupied by th e family members, with splendid frescoed rooms.

AT THE TOP OF THE MOUNTAIN STANDS PALAZZO ORSINI, SYMBOL OF MONTEROTONDO and of its entire h istory, wh ich is strongly connected to th e vicissitudes of th e noble families wh o ruled it, th e Orsini and th e Barberini. Th e first ph ase of th e fortification grew in th e 11th century above th e remains of ancient Eretum, a Sabine city dedicated to th e goddess Hera. In 1286 th e Castrum Montis Rotundi, until th en a possession of th e Ch urch , became property of th e Orsini family wh o built th e castle th ere. Th e first wall th at also surrounded th e town, was built between th e end of th e 14th and th e beginning of th e 15th centuries by Orso Orsini Di Gentile wh o also added four ramparts and as many doors, creating th e first real fortification of th e town of Monte Rotondo. Th e Orsini conditioned th e life of th e townspeople for th ree centuries with th eir constant political struggles against th e rivaling family of th e Colonna, and th e castle was almost destroyed in 1486 by order of Innocent VIII. Yet th eir munificence allowed th em to overcome th eir difficult moments and, to sh ow th eir power, th ey called many artists to fresco and embell22

the rome area and the tiber valle y

getting there

Capena FIANO ROMANO

SS 3

Monterotondo (R M) - From Rome: SS4 Via Salaria direction Rieti, at th e km 21 follow directions for th e A1 RISERVA REGIONALE ITINERARY 4 MACCHIA DI GATTACECA h istorical centre and th e Eremo dei Cappuccini. E DEL BARCO By train: Metropolitan Train FMI from Roma Monterotondo MONTI Trastevere and Roma Tiburtina for Monterotondo CORNICOLANI Mentana S By bus: Cotral lines from Roma Tiburtina station S. Angelo RISERVA REGIONALE SS Romano to Monterotondo. NOMENTUM 2 bis AREA PROTETTA Capena (RM) - A1 exit Fiano Romano and continue Guidonia ROMANATURA G.R.A. to Morlupo, follow the directions for Capena and for MARCIGLIANA PARCO REGIONALE SS the Valle del Fosso di San Martino (for the Lake). 2 INVIOLATA Tivoli SS 5 R egional R eserve Macchia di Gattaceca and Fiume C Tevere M Macch ia del Barco - From Rome: SS4 Via Salaria N Fiume Aniene T 24 T ROMA up to km 12.4 A A 24 L By train: Metropolitan Train FM1 from Roma Trastevere and Roma Tiburtina for Monterotondo. R egional Park of th e Inviolata - From Rome: A24, exit Tivoli and SS5 for Guidonia, deviation for Cascate dell’Inviolata, or Via Nomentana th en Via Palombarese, directions for Cascate dell’Inviolata. Marcigliana - From Rome: G.R.A. exit Via Salaria direction Rieti and turn righ t for Via Marcigliana. TEB AG NI

SET

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INA RT IBU

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UNGHEZZA

Monterotondo, Palazzo Orsini: frescoes.

P R OTA GON I STS CLARICE ORSINI and LORENZO the MAGNIFICent

A RT the frescoes

Icon of th e strong power of th e Orsini, Clarice was a young noblewoman of th e influential Monterotondo branch of th e family. Sh e was ch osen as a bride by th e cultured Lorenzo De Medici, son of Piero and Lucrezia Tornabuoni, wh o longed to get h is family closer to Rome and th e Papal State. Delicate and kind, Clarice spent h er youth in th e splendour of th e family Castle in th e small rural town of Monterotondo, far removed from th e elegance of Florentine nobility, at least according to th e biting remark of h er future moth er-in-law, wh o resolved to refine th e girl’s manners. Th e wedding of th e couple wh o was probably never in love, was th e great event of th e period: th ree days of celebrations (June 4, 1469) in Florence th at from th at year was ruled by Lorenzo wh o increasingly affirmed h is auth ority th rough out th e country. Clarice, devout and reserved, was never truly at ease in Renaissance Florence but assumed h er role of wife and moth er with seriousness and tranquillity. Th eir marriage brough t 8 ch ildren, including Giovanni De Medici wh o in 1513 became Pope Leo X.

Th e paintings in th e th ird room of th e main floor of Palazzo Orsini, with h unting scenes and landscapes of Monterotondo, are by th e Flemish painter Paul Bril (1581). Th e artist spent an important period of h is career in Rome and became one of th e major representatives of picturesque landscape painting. Along with h is pupils, including Matth eus Bril, h e contributed to th e delicate rustic scenes in th e first room. Th e myth of Adonis is th e th eme of th e 16th century frescoes and decorations in th e second room. Th e artist, Girolamo Siciolante da Sermoneta, was a member of th e Raph ael sch ool. Myth s and th e celebration of th e deeds of th e Orsini family are celebrated among myth ological figures and coats of arms. At th e end of th e 1600s th e rooms were enrich ed by h armonious barrel-vault ceilings, as can be seen in th e fourth h all, finely decorated with an allegory of Time. Th e Renaissance chapel was restructured in later times according to Baroque taste but still preserves a lovely painting on wood by th e sch ool of Gh irlandaio.

ITINERARY

parks

T HE P ROTECTED N ATURAL A REAS AROUND R OME ONE OF THE MOST SURPRISING FACTS ABOUT R OME is that it is one of the most important municipalities in Italy with an agricultural vocation. Churches and monuments, remains of the past and today’s hectic traffic are interspersed with valleys, fields and thickets that together with the river Tiber create a tenacious, mysterious natural presence. Discovering th ese corners of wildlife can bring pleasant, beneficial surprises also to th ose wh o live th eir everyday reality in Rome. 14,000 h ectares of territory are managed by th e RomaNatura Board for th e safeguard of th e environment and th e management of protected areas. Arch eological sites, monuments, villas and farmh ouses are only a part of th e wealth of th is endowment, wh ose real treasures are th e ecological nich es th at h ost 1000 plant species, 5000 species of insects and over 150 species of mammals, birds, amph ibians and reptiles.

Roman countryside landscape.

the park in numbers Inviolata Arch eological Park Management: Municipality of Guidonia Montecelio Surface: 535 h ectares - Instituted: 1996 Nature reserve of Macchia di Gattaceca and Macch ia del Barco Management: Province of Rome, Department II, Service 5 “Environment planning, park development, nature reserves” Surface: ca.1,200 h ectares - Instituted: 1997

F L OR A From the protected area of the Marcigliana to the regional reserves of Gattaceca and Nomentum, just outside the city, Nature provides occasions for a walk among olive trees, Turkey oaks, maples and hornbeam, and a chance to discover scents and sounds too often lost in the urban environment.

Nomentum Nature R eserve Management: Province of Rome, Department II, Service 5 “Environment planning, park development, nature reserves” Surface: ca. 850 h ectares - Instituted: 1997 R omaNatura Management: Regional Authority for the Management of the Protected Nature Area System of the Municipality of Rome Instituted: 1998

Above: olive trees.

t h e r o m e a r e a a n d t h e t i b e r va l l e y

TYPICAL PRODUCTS

GENtian Liquor Th e Gentian, Gentiana Lutea L., is a typical plant of th e Appenines th at grows in th e clearings of woods and pastures, and blooms in th e summer. Always used in liquor-making and in ph armacy, its long and brown cylindrical root is th e ingredient of an excellent liquor with a sweet taste and a sligh tly bitter aftertaste. According to an ancient recipe th e roots are gath ered in Autumn, left to dry and th en wash ed, ground, and steeped in eth yl alcoh ol for 40 days. Gentian liquor is completely natural and acknowledged as a traditional product of Lazio by th e Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry.

FAUN A Th e h ooded crow, a constant presence in countryside excursions, is a very intelligent and adaptable bird th at h as managed to survive wh ere oth ers h ave fled. It endures pollution and noise and eats about everyth ing, taking advantage of abandoned waste. A pleasant bird but a world populated only by crows would be rath er dull. Above: hooded crow.

ITINERARY

ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES

T HE CAPUCHIN MONASTERY Monterotondo T HANKS TO THE INFORMATION PROVIDED BY THE Bullarium Cappuccinorum, and documents preserved in th e convent arch ive, we know th at th e first official news of th e original settlement of th e Capuch ins dates back to th e 27 th of February 1542. Th is is th e date of th e bill of sale of a piece of land, a vineyard, “to be used by th e Capuch ins”, made by Evangelista Jacobi Seretij of Monterotondo to one of th e Orsini. In one of h is reports, th e Orsini doctor, wh o in 1642 owned th e convent, confirms th at it h ad been founded about 80 years earlier, as indicated in th e bill of sale. Wh at th e Capuch in Monastery meant for th e local population is revealed by th e h istory of th e convent itself th at was built th anks to th eir will and strong devotion. In th e early 1600s th e lords of th e town bough t some land and contributed to th e construction of a new convent (1609) on th e slopes of th e Colle Reatino, along th e Via Nomentana, to save th e monks from th e unh ealth y air of th eir original location. So it is th at today th e convent rises on a splendid viewpoint, surrounded by th e silence and greenery of th e woods. Th e Ch urch is simple and sober, a destination for prayer and visits, and is dedicated to St . Fr ancis of Ass isi. It bears th e emblem of th e Municipality of Monterotondo on its main door, evidence of th e strong tie between civil and religious worlds in th e social context of th e time. Th e Ch urch h ouses paintings from th e 16 th and 17 th centuries. Th e Ch o ir contains paintings depicting Saint Lucy (17 th century) and Saint Agath a (early 16 th century). Th e Clois ter partakes in th e sober atmosph ere of th e convent with an ancient cistern at its centre to collect spring water. Many important figures in Italian civil and religious h istory experienced signifi-

Monterotondo, Capuchin Monastery: facade of the Church.

cant moments h ere. Broth er Crispi no da Vi terbo, cano nized in 1982, lived h ere for a few years (1703-1709) as official gardener, as recalled on th e little well of spring water in front of th e convent’s cellar, th at h e used to water th e orch ard. Gi usepp e Gari baldi took refuge h ere with h is wife Anita during h is defense of th e Roman Republic in 1849, and in 1867 h e based h is troops by th e convent during th e occupation of Monterotondo, in th e struggle against th e French and Papal forces, in th e Roman campaign ending with th e battle Mentana. Even P ius I X visited th e monastery in 1853, as indicated by a plaque in th e old Refectory. It seems th at in occasion of th at visit a large pine tree was planted in th e woods of th e convent th at can still be seen today. Th e role of th is religious centre wh ose monastic community always preach ed poverty and h ospitality, was very important. Also a study centre, it h as a seminary founded in 1834, and ph ilosoph y and th eology courses were introduced in th e 1900s. Saint Crispino (Pietro Fioretti) from Viterbo.

t h e r o m e a r e a a n d t h e t i b e r va l l e y

Useful info PALAZZO OR SINI BAR BER INI R egional R eserve of Gattaceca and Macch ia del Barco R egional R eserve of Nomentum Provincia di Roma Ufficio Parch i Naturali Via Tiburtina, 691 - 00159 Roma Ph . +390667663301/3 - 0667663196 R egional Park of the Inviolata c/o Comune - Settore Ambiente 00012 Guidonia-Montecelio Ph . +390774340909 R oma Natura - System of Protected Areas of th e Municipality of R ome Villa Mazzanti Via Gomenizza, 81 - 00195 Roma Ph . +390635405326 Fax +390635491519 www.romanatura.roma.it posta@romanatura.roma.it

Piazza Marconi, 4 00015 Monterotondo (RM) Ph . +390690964221 Cultural Institution Monterotondo www.icmcomune.it MONASTERY OF THE CAPUCHINES Convento Frati Cappuccini Piazza San Francesco d’Assisi, 1 00015 Monterotondo (RM) Ph . +390690627534

Monterotondo, Capuchin Monastery: detail of the door to the cells.

H I ST ORY

C U R I OSI TI ES

THE CAPUCHIN FRIARS

Capena lake

Th e order of the Capuch in Friars Minor, named after th e typical h ood (in Italian “cappuccio”) of th eir h abit, started in th e 16th century as a new branch of th e Franciscans. Founded by Matteo da Bascio as a mendicant order, it was officially recognized in 1528 by Clement VII. Tied to th e vow of poverty, th e Capuch in friars observed th e R ule of St. Francis rigorously and sustained th e Jesuits in th eir programme of ch urch reform. Th ey h ave always lived th eir spiritual commitment and apostolic activities with great simplicity and openness, sh aring th eir experience with th e faith ful. Th ere are many Capuch in convents th rough out Lazio and th eir first saint was San Felice da Cantalice.

Near Capena, in th e Valle del Fosso di San Martino, th ere is a small oval-sh aped lake with strangely iridescent water. Th e peculiarity of th is water basin is th at it disappears for long periods and th en suddenly reemerges. Th e ph enomenon was known already in th e Middle Ages, wh en th e first documents regarding th e lake can be found, and since th en its presence h as been discontinuous. Having reemerged after th e sinking of th e clayey ground, and th anks to th e presence of water tables rich in iron salts, it h as been th ere again since 1930, alth ough th e spring th at feeds it appears to be drying up.

ITINERARY

the castelli romani

in the favorite vacation resort of aristocrats and popes South of Rome we discover traces of the taste of the ancient Romans for pleasant surroundings and leisure. Man’s constant care and attention has maintained the beauty of these site that preserve archaeological, natural and monumental treasures, an authentic patrimony of humanity.

CASTLES AND FORTRESSES

T HE V ILLA A LDOBRANDINI

Frascati: Villa Aldobrandini.

Frascati FROM THE MID 16

magnificent Renaissance palace worth y of th e grandeur of th is Florentine family. At th e end of th e construction work all th at was left of th e small preexisting villa was a wall, incorporated into th e new structure. Th e entire residential complex follows th e layout of th e area and develops on a series of terraced planes with striking yet functional ramps, according to th e typical Renaissance plan, animated by ornamental elements th at anticipate Baroque. Th e main facade is elegant, adorned with pilasters and th e Aldobrandini coat of arms above th e door. Th e spacious 18th century atrium leads to th e great central salon on th e ground floor, frescoed with colours made with plants (known as “grass juices”), along with rooms on th e sides and stairs to th e upper levels. Th e first floor h ouses th e aristocratic rooms with fine furniture and painting decorations with biblical th emes by Giuseppe Cesari, know as th e Cavalier D’Arpino, wh o along with Giovanni Fontana completed th e works after th e death of della Porta. Th e great h all was located on th e second floor. Th e loggia on th e th ird floor and th e belvedere terraces added splendour and prestige to th e wh ole. Th e main structure is flanked by structures creating a balanced

FRASCATI, ONE OF THE MOST CASTELLI R OMANI, became a true living garden at th e gates of Rome, celebrated for its princely villas, spectacular parks and fountains. Th e imposing Villa Aldobrandini stands out among th e town’s numerous aristocratic residences also because of its location overlooking an exceptional view, th at for a long time earned it th e name of Villa Belvedere. Th e original structure was built in 1550 by Monsignor Alessandro Rufini above th e remains of a Roman villa belonging to th e Ottavi family, and after ch anging owners on various occasions, finally in 1598 it came into th e h ands of Pietro Aldobrandini, cardinal and politician, as a gift from h is uncle Pope Clement VIII. Th us began th e most prosperous period of th e villa, fated to become a place of rest and retreat for th e family wh ose named it carries to th is day. It was completely restructured in 1601 by Giacomo della Porta (th e famous Lombard arch itect wh o completed th e work on th e dome of St. Peter’s after th e death of h is master Mich elangelo). At th e request of Cardinal Aldobrandini, h e created a TH

CENTURY

ANCIENT TOWNS OF THE

the c astelli rom ani LUNGHEZZA

Fiume Aniene

A 24

PRENESTINA

SS 6

PIA

51 1

SP 21 5

ITINERARY 5

SP 216

Marino

Rocca di Papa

7 21

ARDEATIN

Monteporzio Frascati Catone Rocca Priora Grottaferrata

Lago di Albano

Ariccia

SP 2 1

DEI

Ariccia Lago di Nemi

COLLI ALBA NI

Nemi

Artena

7 21

SS 7

Lariano

Genzano

PARCO REGIONALE CASTELLI ROMANI

SP 2

Albano

ONTO NE

VALM

CO LA NA

Monte Manno

S.CES AR

A1 dir SU D

TUS AG NIN

MONTEPORZIO

INA

1079

CASIL

7 SS

LAURENTINA

effect, service areas and entrances to th e palace, and a c h apel dedicated to St. Sebastian. In later times th e villa was ROMA acquired by th e Pamph ili family and th en by th e Borgh ese wh en in 1832 Francesco Borgh ese inh erited all th e Aldobrandini possesG.R.A. sions and decided to adopt th eir name. Since th en th e villa, visible only from th e outside, h as always remained property of th e family th at preserves its wealth and h istory.

Velletri

getting there

Lanuvio

Frascati (RM) and Monte Porzio Catone (RM) - A1 MINA, exit Monte Porzio and continue along th e SP216 according to directions. Grottaferrata (RM) - From Rome: G.R.A., junction for th e Via Tuscolana and/or Via Anagnina and follow directions for Grottaferrata.

By bus: Cotral Bus from th e metro station Anagnina direction Rocca di Papa. Ariccia (RM) - From Rome: G.R.A. exit Via Appia continue along SS7 Via Appia direction Ariccia. National Park of the Castelli R omani - From Rome: G.R.A., exit Anagnina-Tuscolana direction Grottaferrata, follow directions for Rocca di Papa where, in Via Cesare Battisti 5, seat of the Regional Park of the Castelli Romani.

Frascati, Villa Aldobrandini: detail of the mosaics in the Park.

A RT the park of wonders After the stay of Pope Clement VIII in Frascati in 1603, a beautiful monumental garden was set up in the park surrounding Villa Aldobrandini, along with an innovative work for the channeling of water. Great artists of the time participated in the project, including sculptor Ippolito Buzzi, French stucco decorator Jacques Sarrazin, and painters Domenico and Tommaso Passignano. The celebrated fountain attendant Orazio Olivieri along with Giovanni Guglielmi created the sophisticated hydraulic devices that allowed each fountain to produce marvelous waterworks complete with sound effects. The architecture was bold and scenographic, in typical Baroque taste, and aimed at surprising and entertaining visitors with the spectacular effects of its fountains, waterfalls, nymphaeums, mythological statues, paintings, ornamental mosaics, the Theatre of Waters and the great Hall of Waters. In his “Relatione”, the designer of the iconography, monsignor Giovan Battista Agucchi - Pietro Aldobrandini’s secretary - describes the allegory of Beauty in the Garden of the Villa by comparing it to the Garden of the Hesperides. According to this plan, the power of Pope Clement VIII corresponded to that of Atlas sustaining the world, and his nephew Aldobrandini was represented by Hercules who helped him. At the time uncle and nephew were both greatly involved in defending Christian peace.

H I S TOR Y the gregorian calendar In Villa Mondragone, near Monte Porzio Catone, on th e 13 th of February 1582 Pope Gregory XIII signed th e Bull of th e “Gregorian R eform” decreeing th e revision of th e Julian Calendar and th e adoption of a new criterion to establish th e cycles of leap years. Th e solar cycle at th e base of th e calendar establish ed by Julius Caesar in 46 BC and used since th at time, exceed correct calculation by as many as 11 minutes and a quarter every year. Th rough th e centuries th e inaccuracy h ad added up to 11 days, and in October of 1582, by order of th e pope, 10 days were suppressed, passing from th e 3rd to th e 14th of October. Th anks to th e calculations and studies of Luigi Lilio, an astronomer from Calabria, and oth er famous math ematicians from all over th e world, th e Gregorian Reform was establish ed, introducing th e Gregorian Calendar, adopted by most Western countries.

ITINERARY

parks

T HE R EGIONAL PARK OF THE CASTELLI R OMANI THE CASTELLI R OMANI,

BY NOW AN INTEGRAL

R OME, are still a traditional destination for th e out-of-town excursions of th e Romans. At one time site of dark woods of oak and beech , today th ey appear as a mosaic of bush and vineyards, h ouses and towns, th e result of a very ancient urbanization. Nature h ere h as been sh aped by th e power and variety of geology. Th e entire area originated from a series of volcanic eruptions th at sh ook th e original crater, creating th e lakes of Albano and Nemi and of th e one of Ariccia, wh ich is now dried up. Th e rock of th e Castelli, th e famous peperino, was used to build th e Roman wall th at separated th e Imperial Forums from th e Suburra, but even th e slab stones of Roman roads were made with basalt from th e Colli Albani. In th is unique setting, with its blend of nature and culture, we need to know h ow to look for evidence of natural life. An auth entic natural patrimony in a protected area surrounded by towns inh abited by 350.000 people, wh ere we can still see th e fligh t of owls and sparrow-h awks.

PART OF THE METROPOLITAN AREA OF

The Pratoni del Vivaro.

the park in numbers

F L OR A Nature park of th e Castelli R omani Management: Public Righ t Board Municipalities involved: Albano, Ariccia, Castel Gandolfo, Frascati, Nemi, Genzano, Grottaferrata, Lanuvio, Lariano, Marino, Monte Compatri, Monte Porzio Catone, Rocca di Papa, Rocca Priora, Velletri, XI ComunitĂ Montana, Province of Rome Surface: 12,000 h ectares - Instituted: 1984

At th e top of Monte Cavo it is still possible to admire tall beech trees and a few ch estnuts h ere and th ere on th e slopes. Th e coppice woods are made up of h olm oak and maple, h ormbeam and h azel. Th ere is also a beautiful Mediterranean bush th ick with broom, h eath er and strawberry trees. Narcissus and peonies are rath er common too. Above: brushwood with ferns.

the CASTELLI ROMANI

CU R I OS I TI ES the “CICCIUPICCHIU” Always a very common plant in th e area of th e Colli Albani and in th e Park of th e Castelli Romani, th e storax (Styrax Officinalis L.), is known locally with th e name of “cicciupicch iu” (dialect term for “donkey-beater”). Th e branch es of th is small sh rub were used in th e past to make flexible sticks and wh ips to drive donkeys. Th e plant was also h igh ly appreciated for th e very sweet liquor made from its flowers and for its officinal properties.

TYPICAL PRODUCTS

the FRAGOLINO and fragolina of nemi The names seem taken from a romantic Italian fairytale, but they actually refer to two typical products of Lazio. Fragolino is a tasty distillate of wild strawberries (“fragolina”), common to the area of the Colli Albani and one of the four recognized as typical product of Lazio. The original recipe for Fragolino calls specifically for the wild strawberries from the woods around the Lake of Nemi, sweet and aromatic, and strictly hand-picked.

FAUN A In th e Pratoni del Vivaro we can come across a tortoise, or spot an egret h unting along th e lake sh ores. Wh ere Man’s presence in th e lake area is scarce, in every season we can enjoy th e sigh t of tench es, bleaks and pikes darting th rough th e water wh ile h erons, loons, dabch icks and ducks swim undisturbed. Above: a fox.

ITINERARY

ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES

T HE A BBEY

OF S AN Grottaferrata

N ILO

THE ABBEY WAS FOUNDED IN 1004 BY S T. NILO, a Basilian monk from Calabria, wh o was already over ninety at th e time. Gregorio I, master of Tuscolo, granted th e scribe monk th e piece of land on wh ich th e monastery was built and th at was previously occupied by a sepulch ral ch apel from Republican times, known as Cryptaferrata because of th e iron protection surrounding it, th at probably also originated th e name of th e town of Grottaferrata th at h osts th e beautiful abbey. Th e complex is th e only one of th e numerous Greek monasteries built in Italy and Europe between th e 6th and 13th centuries th at survived time and destruction and in wh ich Basilian monks still observe th e Orth odox rite, in communion with th e Ch urch of Rome, to th is day. Th e Greek-Cath olic rite differs from th e Latin only in exterior aspects and was widely diffused in south ern Italy around th e 15th century wh en, following th e invasion of th e Balkan area by th e Turks, many Albanian monastic communities moved to Italy. Declared national monument in 1874, th e complex h as a square plan and th e appearance of a fortified Renaissance abbey, with four towers at th e corners and a migh ty wall. Th is was h ow th e Cardinal Giuliano Della Rovere wanted it wh en between 1483 and 1491 h e ordered th e restructuring project to Antonio da Sangallo, in a period in wh ich monasteries were not just places of worsh ip and faith but also fiefs th at exerted th eir jurisdiction over th e neigh bouring territory. Fully equipped with a moat and a bridge for defense, th e structure presents all th e typical elements of an abbey complex: basilica, cloister, library, refectory, and oth er service areas used by th e monks in th eir daily practice of faith . Th e actual monastery is accessed th rough th e first courtyard, wh ere we find th e airy Portico designed by Sangallo framing an elegant garden.

Grottaferrata, Abbey of San Nilo: in the background the Portico by Sangallo.

Th e Basilica di Santa Maria di Grottaferrata, founded by St. Barth olomew, is in th e second courtyard: th e interior is in18th century style, owing to th e numerous interventions th at erased th e original Romanesque style, represented by th e elegant bell tower from th e 12th century. Th e ch urch h as th ree naves and contains Byzantine mosaics (13th century) and decorations, a baptismal fount (10th century) and a fine ByzantineItalic icon painted on wood and representing th e Virgin and Ch ild. Scenes from th e life of St. Nilo and h is disciple St. Barth olomew are depicted on th e walls of th e Ch apel dedicated to th e founder of th e abbey, frescoed in 1610 by Domenich ino (1584-1641), accessible from th e righ t nave of th e basilica.

Walking through time Parks, castles, monasteries Discovering history and legends From the heart of Lazio

General Map

Siena

RISERVA REGIONALE MONTE RUFENO

M.Rufeno 734 Acquapendente Grotte di Castro

ITINERARY 1

The most beautiful villages in Italy

Torre Alfina Orvieto

i Volsini Mont

Civita

Gradoli RISERVA REGIONALE SELVA DEL LAMONE

Lago di Bolsena

Valentano

Farnese

Embarkation

Capodimonte

VULCI

Montefiascone

Canino

VITERBO

Tuscania

nel Cimino 1053 M.Cimino Vignanello

ar ta

Monti Cimini

m Fiu

Tarquinia

NORCHIA

Blera

ITINERARY 2

Monti Sabat

Trevignano RISERVA NATURALE Romano

della Tolfa 579

MONTERANO

Manziana

Santa Marinella Capo Linaro Santa Severa

Calcata

PARCO REGIONALE BRACCIANO-MARTIGNANO

Anguillara Sabazia

ITINERARY 3

Palidoro

Palo Maccarese

Itinerary 2: Caprarola, Palazzo Farnese.

T i r r

Itinerary 3: Bracciano, Odescalchi Castle.

Monterotond

RISERV AREA PROTETTA NO ROMANATURA MARCIGLIANA PA

CITTÀ DEL VATICANO

ROMA

e Te v e r e

Grottafer

Marin

OSTIA ANTICA

Castel Gandolf

Lido di Ostia

Albano

Lido di Castel Fusano

RIS MAC MAC

ITINERARY 4

Fiumicino

a r

Riano

PARCO REGIONALE VEJO

Fregene

P C

Morlupo

Campagnano

VEIO

Ladispoli

Rignano Fiano Flaminio Romano

NECROPOLI

Cerveteri

Cantal in Sab

RISERVA REGIONALE Mi MONTE SORATTE RISERVA REGI TEVERE-FA

Nepi

PARCO REGIONALE VALLE DEL TREJA

ini

Casp

di Roma Lago di Lago di Bracciano Bracciano Martignano

Civitavecchia

Olbia

Vi ca no

Sutri

1114 M.

Magliano a M Sabina

Civita Castellana

ini Cim nti Mo

Cagliari

Itinerary 1: Bolsena, Monaldeschi Fortress.

PARCO REGIONALE ANTICHISSIMA CITTÀ DI SUTRI

MONUMENTO NATURALE PIAN SANT'ANGELO

Caprarola

Ronciglione

Vejano

eM Fium Allumiere Tolfa

Mo nti

RISERVA REGIONALE LAGO DI VICO Vetralla Lago di Vico

PARCO REGIONALE MARTURANUM

Monte Romano ne o ign

Tarquinia Lido

Terni

Soriano

Montalto di Castro e

Orte

Bomarzo

Vitorchiano

RISERVA REGIONALE TUSCANIA

Montalto Marina

Spoleto

RISERVA REGIONALE MONTE CASOLI DI BOMARZO

Marta

F Fium e iora

Grosseto

Castiglione in Teverina

Bagnoregio

Ischia di Castro

Itineraries

General

e Arr one

Touring Club Orange Flag Locality

Fi um

KEY

Ari Gen

Pomezia Torvaianica

Ardea

Lavinio

Lido di Enea

Anzio

Itinerary 4: Roman countryside, Autumn landscape.

Capo d’Anzio

Isola di Zannone

Itinerary 5: Frascati, Villa Aldobrandini.

Isola di Gavi

Isola di Palmarola Isola di Ponza

Ponza

ISOLE PONZIANE (Latina)

Scoglio la Botte Isola di Ventotene

Ventotene Isola di S.Stefano

Map

Ascoli Piceno

Accumoli PARCO NAZIONALE GRAN SASSO E MONTI DELLA LAGA

M.Pozzoni 1904

o Tr

Amatrice

Leonessa

Terni

1735

Monti Reatini

Ve l

on Sa b in

Itinerary 7 Palombara Sabina San Giovanni in Argentella.

L’Aquila L’Aquila

Petrella Salto Fiamignano

ITINERARY 7

i c o l a n o Borgorose

RISERVA REGIONALE MONTE NAVEGNA E MONTE CERVIA

Itinerary 8 Castel San Pietro, Colonna Castle.

RISERVA REGIONALE MONTAGNE DELLA DUCHESSA

Orvinio

PARCO REGIONALE

Moricone MONTI LUCRETILI

SERVA REGIONALE CHIA GATTACECA E CCHIA DEL BARCO

e st ini

Lago di Albano

Colli Albani

Nemi

ccia Lago nzano di Nemi

Lido di Foce Verde

Torre Astura

i n

LATINA Lago di Fogliano

1116 M.Calvilli

Monte S.Biagio Lago di Caprolace

676

Fondi

Cassino

Lago di Fondi

Terracina M.Circeo San Felice Circeo 541

Esperia

Monti

Terme di Suio

M.Petrella

Sperlonga

ITINERARY 10

Napoli

Ausonia

Aurun ci 1533

Formia Grotta di Tiberio

Isernia

S.Giorgio a Liri

PARCO REGIONALE MONTI AURUNCI

Sabaudia

Capo Circeo

Lir

MOLA DELLA CORTESETTECANNELLE-CAPODACQUA

Gaeta

M e

M.Cairo 1669

Roccasecca

n i Campodimele A u s oMONUMENTO NATURALE nti

Itinerary 10 Sermoneta, Abbey of Valvisciolo.

M.Bianco 1168

Aquino

Priverno Abb. di Fossanova o

Lido di Capo Portiere

Ceprano

PARCO NAZIONALE ABRUZZO-LAZIO

lfa

Castro dei Volsci

Sezze

Arce

ell a

le Mainarde 2039

Arpino

Ceccano

Mon ti d

Isola del Liri

FROSINONE

1536 M.Semprevisa Sermoneta

NINFA

Nettuno

RISERVA REGIONALE LAGO DI POSTA FIBRENO

Sora

Veroli

Bassiano

di Latina

Collepardo

Norma

Cisterna

M.Cornacchia 2003 Boville Ernica

RISERVA REGIONALE

i oLAGO DI CANTERNO c Anagni i a Alatri r Ferentino i

o n Segni

Cori

Aprilia

A g r o

ITINERARY 9

E r n i c i

Fiuggi

ITINERARY 5

M o n t i

Paliano

Artena Colleferro

Velletri

Campo Catino

Gennazzano

Valmontone

Rocca di Papa

Itinerary 9 Veroli, Abbey of Casamari.

i n i Vallepietra 2014 en 2156 Filettino e M.Viglio

MONUMENTO NATURALE LA SELVA Olevano

Cave

PARCO REGIONALE CASTELLI ROMANI

MONUMENTO NATURALE VALLE DELLE CANNUCCETE

Palestrina Zagarolo Frascati

1853 n t i M.Autore Si m PARCO REGIONALE br Subiaco MONTI SIMBRUINI

1202

Pren

ITINERARY 8

Agosta

M ont i

VILLA ADRIANA

Castel Madama

Castelforte Scauri Minturno

PARCO REGIONALE GIANOLA E MONTE DI SCAURI

lia

Marcellina

Tivoli

ARCO REGIONALE INVIOLATA

Chieti

Arsoli

Vicovaro

VA REGIONALE OMENTUM

Anien

Percile

Palombara Sabina

do Mentana

rrata

Lago del Turano

Poggio Moiano Montelibretti

Passo Corese

Lago del Salto

Rocca Sinibalda

Fara in Sabina

lto

ONALE RFA

r Tu

oggio irteto

1888 M.Nuria

Concerviano

upo bina

Antrodoco

Cittaducale

Contigliano

peria 1287

ITINERARY 6

Borbona

RIETI

Configni .Cosce

M.Pizzuto

Posta

M.Terminillo RISERVA REGIONALE 2216 LAGHI LUNGO E Cantalice RIPASOTTILE

ino

Labro

Itinerary 6: Labro, Vitelleschi Castle.

M.Gorzano 2458

Cittareale

ri g

MINTURNAE

PARCO REGIONALE MONTE ORLANDO

Napoli G o l f o d i G a e t a

III

30 km

ORANGE FLAG PROJECT The ORANGE FLAG is a tourist and environmental quality trademark that the Touring Club has assigned to those localities in the inland of our peninsula that pursue tourist development according to quality standards. The promotion of cultural assets, the protection of the environment, the culture of hospitality, the accessibility and availability of resources, the quality of accommodation, of restaurant services and of typical products, are only some of the key elements for the assignment of the trademark. In this guide we decided to reserve the indication on the general map of the region to the nineteen small towns of Lazio that have obtained the Orange Flag trademark: Arpino, Bassiano, Bolsena, Bomarzo, Calcata, Campodimele, Caprarola, Casperia, Collepardo, Fossanova, Labro, Leonessa, Nemi, San Donato Val di Comino, Sermoneta, Sutri, Trevignano Romano, Tuscania and Vitorchiano and to the twelve small towns associated with the Club of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy: Boville Ernica, Campodimele, Caprarola, Castel di Tora, Castel Gandolfo, Civita di Bagnoregio, Collalto Sabino, Monte S. Giovanni Campano, Orvinio, San Donato Val di Comino, Sperlonga, Torre Alfina, with the goal of offering an overall vision of the cultural and environmental patrimony of Lazio.

Touring Club Italiano

The ORANGE FLAG Project is coordinated by the Study Centre of TCI. Info: Ph. +39 028526828 - Fax +39 028526333 www.bandierearancioni.it - www.touringclub.it bandiere.arancioni@touringclub.it.

THE

MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES IN

ITALY

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES IN ITALY is a club constituted by the Tourism Council of ANCI (National Association of Italian Municipalities) in March 2001 in order to promote the precious history, art, culture, environment and traditions of these small Italian villages, most of which off the tourist path. The club collects the requirements of those local communities more sensitive to the preservation and enhancement of the villages, willing to join such an important and demanding organization. They must satisfy structural requirements such as the harmonic architectural style of the urban texture and the quality of public and private housing, and general ones related to the village in terms of activities and services for the citizen.

Club I Borghi piĂš belli dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Italia Via Rialto, 6 - 00136 Roma - Tel. 06 33111789 - Fax 06 32503969

the castelli romani

Useful info V ILLA ALDOBR ANDINI

VILLE DI MONTE POR ZIO CATONE (R M) R egional Park of th e Castelli R omani Via Cesare Battisti, 5 00040 Rocca di Papa (RM) Ph . +39069479931 Fax +39069495254 www.parch ilazio.it - www.parks.it

Via Cardinal Massaia, 112 Frascati (RM) - 9am-1pm / 3-5pm Information - Museum Tuscolano Aldobrandini Stables for th e Arts P.zza Marconi, 6 - 00044 Frascati (RM) Orario visite: 10,00-18,00 (Every day - except Monday) Saturdays and h olidays: 10,00-19,00 Tel.-Fax +39069417195 email: info@scuderiealdobrandini.it

Visits by appointment: Ph. +390694019467 info@villamondragone.it

Left: Grottaferrata, Abbey of San Nilo, a moment in the patient restoration of a manuscript. Below: view of Ariccia.

A N TI QU I TY

ABBEY OF SAN NILO Corso del Popolo, 128 - 00046 Grottaferrata Ph . +39069459309 Visits by reservation (except Monday) www.abbaziagreca.it Biblioteca - Ph .+39069415122 sannilo@librari.beniculturali.it

the SCRIPTORIUM Th e Abbey of San Nilo is famous for th e presence of th e fascinating Scientific Laboratory for th e R estoration and Conservation of antique book s and for th e Sch ool of Miniature and Paleograph y, both instituted in 1931. Th e delicate work of “curing” and preserving th e book patrimony - vulnerable to th e marks and injuries of time - originated at th e time of th e Abbey’s founding, wh en th e scriptorium created by St. Nilo was assigned to th e practice of decorating and preserving ancient manuscripts carried out by patient amanuensis monks. Th rough th is masterly work h anded down for centuries, th e monastic community h as instilled its profound sense of prayer, present in every simple gesture of daily life. It was h ere th at th e restoration of th e Atlantic Code by Leonardo da Vinci took place in 1962, twelve volumes of drawings, studies and calculations. It was th e monks from Grottaferrata wh o, on request of Pope Paul VI, recuperated and saved 1200 volumes of an immense book patrimony during th e flood in Florence in 1966, and to th is day it is in th is institute th at rare works from all over th e world are given rigorous ch emical conservation treatments. Th e monastery Library and th e public one, among th e most ancient and precious in Italy, contain 60,000 Byzantine works, one th ousand illuminated manuscripts, incunabula, Greek and Latin manuscripts, works by St. Nilo, Plato, Aristotle, Petrarch and Boccaccio.

C U R I OSI TI ES THE “DESCENDING” CLIMB Near Ariccia th ere is a place wh ere a strange ph enomenon was recorded in 1978. To fully understand its effects it is worth going to th e exact spot, at km 11,6 of th e SS218 between Ariccia and Rocca Priora, past th e junction for Castel Gandolfo. Th e rise in th is location, 550mt above sea level, forms a descent th at continues into a broad curve and looks quite normal. Yet, in defiance of all rules and th e law of gravity, th e descent beh aves like an up-h ill climb: every object tends to roll up rath er th an down. In th at point even people feel strangely attracted to th e climb. Despite th e strong skepticism of th e scientific community, some sch olars exclude it could be an optical illusion. It seems th e unique ph enomenon may be explained th rough an anomaly in th e magnetism and force of gravity in th e area of th e Colli Albani, caused by th e preexistence of th e ancient volcanic range, th e Lazio Volcano, extinguish ed 25,000 years ago.

ITINERARY

the monti sabini and reatini

FRAGMENTS OF HISTORY ALONG THE PATHS AMONG THE OLIVE TREES Here where agricultural and pastoral traditions coexist with innovative tourist structures, religious feeling, power and culture have always found time and space to express themselves at their best. Saints, emperors and artists wrote history along the Via Salaria, the ancient road that crossed the heart of Sabina, the land of the Valle Santa up to the Apennines.

CASTLES AND FORTRESSES

T HE N OBILI -V ITELLESCHI CASTLE Labro

Labro, Nobili Vitelleschi Castle: rampart and detail of the wall.

Nobili became related to th e Vitellesch i family and in 1624 wh en th e latter became extinct, adopted th eir name along with th eir own. Between th e mid 15th century and th e beginning of th e 16th , th e castle was entirely reconstructed and enlarged by incorporating h ouses, towers and walls of th e older fortress, in order to make it safer and more compact. To th is day ancient path s departing from th e famous Th ree Gates in th e h eart of th e town, run along th e defensive perimeter. Restorations in later times allowed th e family to transform th eir residence in a true baronial palace with a beautiful terraced garden crossed by a spectacular double staircase. Between th e end of th e 1800s and th e early 1900s th e complex was significantly restructured with th e opening of windows, th e addition of small loggias and typical Guelph battlements. In excellent condition, it is still inh abited by th e aristocratic Vitellesch i family.

THE TOWN OF LABRO IS A CHEST OF MEDIEVAL TREAS URES , buildings and ch urch es, doors and gates, decorative arch itectural elements, elegant windows, inscriptions, bays and above all th e Nobili Vitellesch i Castle, a splendid feudal fortress th at is one with th e town. Th e present complex rises above th e remains of an ancient fortress founded around th e 10th century. In fact, in 956 Emperor Otto I assigned th e estate of Labro to th e powerful aristocratic family of th e deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Nobili wh o establish ed th eir residence th ere. Th e Nobili built th e castle in order to control th e communication routes in th e valley below, between th e Monti Reatini and th e Tiber Valley. Th is was th eir main activity and for a few centuries th ey created and controlled most of th e fortified settlements in th e area. In th e 12th and 13th centuries th e fate of th e castle was tied to th e events of th e Ch urch of Rome and of th e rural area around Rieti. At th e end of th e 1500s th e 34

the Monti sabini and reatini Accumoli

PARCO NAZIONALE DEL GRAN SASSO E MONTI DELLA LAGA Amatrice

Cittareale Leonessa

SP 521

A MONTI RE

Labro

RIETI

SORATTE

Nazzano

Farfa

S.Oreste

Flaminio

FIANO

SS 4

ROMANO Labro (RI): A1 MI-RM, exit Fiano Romano, th en SS4 Via Salaria for Rieti; th en SS Ternana up to Ponte Crispolti and follow directions for Labro. Montenero Sabino (RI): A1 exit Fiano Romano, th en SS4 Via Salaria and SS313. Borgo San Pietro - Poggio Bustone (RI): A24 RM-AQ exit Valle del Salto and SS4 Via Salaria. Fara in Sabina (RI): A1 RM-FI exit Roma Nord Fiano Romano. Or from Rome: Via Salaria, exit Passo Corese and from Rieti Osteria Nuova. By train: Metropolitan Train from Fiumicino to Fara Sabina and Cotral bus for Farfa. National Park of Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga: A24 RM-AQ-TE (exit Assergi towards th e Aquila part, San Gabriele - Colledara for th e Teramo part), th en SS17bis to reach th e excursion departure point. From Rome and th e

Labro, Archive of the Nobili-Vitelleschi Castle: ancient manuscript.

A NT I QU I T Y

bis 4

SP 17

57 8 Concerviano

L’AQUILA OVEST

C Rocca O delLago Salto Sinibalda L A N O Lago del Turano

Fara in Sabina Canneto Sabino

SP 313

RISERVA REGIONALE Rignano TEVERE-FARFA

getting there

Poggio Mirteto

3 SS

RISERVA REGIONALE MONTE SORATTE

Montenero Sabino

Sa lt

Fiume T eve

Fiu

no ura eT Fium

SP 260

Antrodoco

SS 4 Cittaducale

Fiume Velin o

SS 4

SP 313

Contigliano

315 SP

MAGLIANO SABINA

SP 79

Greccio

2081 Monte Cambio

Monte Terminillo 2216

Ripasottile

ORTE

Civita Castellana

Poggio Bustone Borgo San Pietro

SP 80

Lago Lungo

SP 57 7

RISERVA REGIONALE LAGHI LUNGO E RIPASOTTILE Lago di

TIN

SP 80 d

TERNI

A 24

ITINERARY 6

CAR

SEOLANI

Adriatic coast: SS4 Salaria for th e Lazio and Umbria parts. From L’Aquila and Teramo: SS80 along th e Valle del Vomano for th e Abruzzo part and th e Monti della Laga. For th e SW part: SS17 from L’Aquila to Navelli, continuing th en for Pepoli. For th e SE part, th e carriageways of th e Pescara valley. By train: L’Aquila and Teramo FS stations and th en by coach . Monte Navegna and Monte Cervia Nature Reserve From Rome: A24 exit Oricola Carsoli, th en SP Turanese towards Rieti. From Rieti: SS578 direction Avezzano, th en Sp67 Cicolana, directions for Varco Sabino.

H I S TOR Y THE ASSAULT TO CONTIGLIANO CASTLE During h is papacy, Alexander VI impassively supported th e designs for domination of h is son Cesare Borgia, intent on creating a strong state in central Italy. After conquering a large portion of Romagna, Cesare proceeded south by attacking and invading, and eventually ordered th e assault on th e Castle of Contigliano, a strategic base for th e control of central Italy, in August of 1501. To th e resistance of th e townspeople, th e leader of th e troops Vitellozzo Vitelli answered with a h arsh battle th at led to th e occupation of th e town. Every August th e event is commemorated with an evocative ceremony in medieval costume with a Historic Parade, th e Palio dell’Ariete, and th e reenactment of th e battle with warriors in costumes.

THE HISTORIC ARCHIVE For over one th ousand years, th e N obi liVitellesch i Castle h as preserved precious documents th rough wh ich it is possible to reconstruct th e h istory of th e family. Th e Historic Arch ive collects and conserves documents dating from 1068, and more th an 300 rare parch ments also include a “brief” in wh ich Pope Celestine III auth orized th e building of a ch urch in 1191 and th e one in wh ich th e Holy Roman Emperor Frederick III nominated one of th e descendents of th e Vitellesch i Palatine Count in 1452.

ITINERARY

parks

T HE N ATIONAL PARK OF THE GRAN S ASSO AND OF THE MONTI DELLA L AGA A LONG THE BORDER BETWEEN LAZIO, A BRUZZO AND MARCHE, lies one of th e most beautiful forests in Italy, th e forest of th e Monti della Laga, part of th e National Park of th e Gran Sasso. Water flows th rough sandstone and marls forming a unique environment in th e context of th e Appennines and th at during th e th aw offers a truly unforgettable sigh t. Mountain climbers explore th ese surges in th e wintertime also, evidence of h ow th e Laga is an ideal destination for excursions all year round. Th e waterfall of th e Barch e h as a drop of over forty metres and is one of th e most evocative places in th is part of th e region. Flowing water is the main feature also in the nature reserve of Lak es Lungo and Ripasottile, and the one of Tevere-Farfa, two natural lakes along the Velino river and a marshy area created after the construction of an artificial water reservoir, two among the most popular destinations for the observation of bird-life in a swamp environment in Lazio. Two authentic natural “lungs” just outside of Rome.

Monte Soratte.

the park in numbers National Park of th e Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga Management: Park Board Surface: 150,000 h ectares - Instituted: 1991 Nature R eserve of Lak es Lungo and R ipasottile Management: Municipalities involved: Rieti, Cantalice, Colli sul Velino, Contiglano, Poggio Bustone, Rivodutri Surface: 3,000 h ectares - Instituted: 1985

F L OR A Reed thickets are true reservoirs of biological diversity and the entire swamp environment gravitates around them. Along with reeds and cat’s tail, the surface of the water is scattered with white water-lilies and yellow candocks, delicate duckweed and less known varieties of water plants.

Nature R eserve Monte Soratte Management: Province of Rome, Department II, Service 5 “Environment planning, park development, nature reserves” Surface: ca 410 h ectares - Instituted: 1997 Nature R eserve Tevere Farfa Management: Board of th e Nature Reserve Surface: 705 h ectares - Instituted: 1999

Above: swamp landscape with reed thicket.

t h e M O N T I S A B I N I a n d R E AT I N I

TYPICAL PRODUCTS

The oil of Sabina Yellow, almost green in colour, an aromatic, almost fruity flavour, this refined product from the land of Sabina obtained the authenticated trademark for quality a few years ago. The “liquid gold” the Romans were the first to appreciate is today a high quality extra-virgin olive oil, thanks to its area of origin, its seven selected cultivated varieties (Carboncella, Leccino, Frantoio, Raja, Pendolino, Moraiolo, Rosciola), and its precious organoleptic characteristics. The mild climate and the calcareous soil of the hills, typical of Sabina, have created for over 2000 years the ideal habitat for the cultivation of olives that the ancient Romans themselves implemented. In time, the patient work of the Benedictine monks refined and rationalized the various phases (hand-picking and pressing) of the careful limited production. In Canneto Sabino stands a 2000 year-old olive tree, the biggest in Europe, whose trunk has a diameter of 7 metres.

FAUN A Th e wolf is th e most feared and admired animal in Italy. Its proverbial ability to survive in difficult conditions h as led h im past th e Alps from th e h eart of our Apennines, a great example of wildlife’s strong adaptability. Above: a wolf.

ITINERARY

ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES

T HE CONV ENT OF S AN GIACOMO Poggio Bustone NEAR THE TOWN OF POGGIO BUSTONE, on th e slopes of Monte Rosato, stands th e Convent of San Giacomo, built between 1235 and 1237 by th e grotto wh ere Saint Francis lived in th e years of h is preach ing in th e Rieti valley around 1209. After becoming a Franciscan Sanctuary it was rebuilt numerous times between th e 13th and 17th centuries and all th at is left of th e original arch itecture of th e 1200s is a small portico leading to th e Ch urch and Convent complex, consisting of sections from th e 14th century and oth er sections added later, along with th e ch arming Cloister. Th e R efectory, built in th e 16th century, is decorated with frescoes representing saints. Th e convent Ch urch dedicated to Saint Giacomo Maggiore, dates from th e first h alf of th e 1400s and is an example of simplicity and devotion: th e exterior h as maintained th e original aspect wh ereas th e interior, with a single nave, is in goth ic style. Beautiful frescoes represent moments in th e life of St. Francis, including one from th e 15th century th at sh ows h im receiving th e stigmata. Th e life of St. Francis h ad a strong influence on th is place of prayer and stretch ed to th e area outside th e convent itself. Starting from th e square and climbing up Monte Rosato, we arrive in fact at th e Hermitage, a place dug out of th e rock wh ere th e Saint retired to pray in solitude or with h is companions. We still find it today, practically identical to wh en h e received th e revelation from God on th e righ tness of th e path h e h ad ch osen and regarding th e mission of h is Order, and for th is reason it is also known as th e “Grotto of R evelations”. Th e grotto is situated in a small 13th century ch urch built after St. Francis’ death and to wh ich a ch apel was added in th e 1600s, containing a beautiful paint-

Borgo San Pietro - Poggio Bustone: Church and Convent of San Giacomo.

ing with an “Angel Announcing th e Forgiveness of Sins” th at seems to recall th e forgiveness St. Francis obtained th ere for h is own sins.

CU R I OS I T I ES the words of saint francis “Hail good people”. With these words, in October 1208, a young monk greeted the townspeople of Poggio Bustone who had rushed to listen to his preaching. To pay homage to St. Francis’s profound work of evangelization, every year on the 4th of October at dawn, an inhabitant of the town greets all his fellow townspeople with those words, accompanied by a tambourine. The verbal communication of the Saint has maintained its strong emotional impact to this day. His words and works have always been a source of inspiration for artists, scholars and men of letters, as proven by the words represented in the 16th century painting preserved in the Refectory of the Convent of San Giacomo. Poggio Bustone, Refectory of the Convent of San Giacomo: words attributed to St. Francis.

t h e m o n t i s a b i n i a n d r e at i n i

Useful info

NOBILI-VITELLESCHI CASTLE Labro (RI)- Via Santa Maria Maggiore, 4 Ph . +390746636020-3337165459 Visits: 10-12am / 3-6pm; 3-7pm (summer)

National Park of the Gran Sasso and th e Monti della Laga Via Convento, 1 67010 Assergi (AQ) Ph . +39086260521 www.gransassolagapark.it

R egional R eserve of Monte Soratte Provincia, Ufficio Parch i Naturali Via Tiburtina, 691 00159 Roma Ph . +390667663317-67663303

R egional R eserve of Lak es Lungo and R ipasottile c/o V Comunità montana Via A. Manzoni, 10 02100 Rieti Ph . +390746200999

R egional R eserve of Tevere-Farfa Via Tiberina, km 32 00060 Nazzano (RM) Ph . +390765332795 info@teverefarfa.it

CONVENT OF SAN GIACOMO 02018 Poggio Bustone (RI) Piazzale Missioni Francescane Ph . +390746688916 Visits: 9-12am / 3-6pm ABBEY OF FARFA 02032 Fara in Sabina (RI) Via del Monastero, 1 Visits: 10am-1pm/ 4-7pm except Mondays Library: 9:30am-1pm/ 3:30-6pm Saturday 9:30am-1pm Holidays closed FRANCISCAN SANCTUARY OF THE NATIVITY OF GRECCIO Visits: 9-12:45am/3-5:45pm; 3-6:45pm (summer) www.abbaziadifarfa.it

FA I TH the sanctuaries of valle santa M ONU MEN TS

Saint Francis represented a profound spiritual turning point in th e h istory of Ch ristian faith . Th e simplicity and poverty h e preach ed can be traced in th e bare structures and serene atmosph ere of th e sanctuaries, convents and monasteries h e stopped at during h is preach ing in th e R ieti valley. We know it all began in Poggio Bustone in 1208 and th at every place ch osen by St. Francis th rough th e years as h is spiritual retreats became symbols of faith and devotion. Greccio, wh ere h e represented th e “Nativity of Baby Jesus” for th e first time (1223), is for th is reason considered th e “Beth leh em of th e West”. Th e town, th at h asn’t lost its original aspect of medieval castrum, welcomed h im for th e first time in 1209. Th e Franciscan Convent, symbol of th e Saint’s work, and still today a destination for pilgrimages, was built in 1260. Among th e woods and h ills th ere were many places th e Saint ch ose as retreats to pray in th e last years of h is life (1182-1226), spent in th e Rieti valley, including Monte Rosato, Monte San Francesco, th e Ch apel of Forgiveness. In th e Convent of Fonte Colombo in 1223, after fasting for forty days, h e wrote th e Rule of th e Order. In 1225, in occasion of a visit to Rieti to cure h is eyes, Saint Francis stopped at th e Convent La Foresta, wh ere according to tradition, h e composed th e “Song of th e Creatures”.

the abbey of farfa A representative monument of the European Middle Ages rises above the ruins of a pagan temple where around 420 Saint Lawrence from Siro founded a Christian hermitage, destroyed by the Lombards in 556. In 680 Thomas de Maurienne built a Benedictine monastery and in 775 Charlemagne granted it the most complete form of autonomy and turned into his outpost to control Rome, and the monastery became a centre of power. It was sacked by the Saracens in the following century (9th century), but with the abbot Hugo of Cluny (10th century) it reacquired its cultural role and became one of the most important spiritual centres in Western monasticism. It exerted its jurisdiction over all of Sabina with the means and the influence of an authentic feudal state and controlled 683 churches, 132 castles, ports, mills and numerous cities. Its decline began in the 1200s when it became a papal holding. Its many treasures include the Library with over 20,000 volumes, rare illuminated manuscripts; the Church of Santa Maria di Farfa (1400) with a valuable fresco (Th e Last Judgement) by Flemish painter Baker, and a Roman sarcophagus from the 3rd century AC in the Carolingian crypt.

ITINERARY

the monti lucretili and the salto cicolano

THE TIBER AND THE ANIENE, AN ANCIENT HEART FULL OF SURPRISES In the valleys of Lazio’s two main rivers, northeast of Rome, a richly evocative land awaits the patient and curious. Elements of ancient Christianity coexist here with significant evidence of the Barbarian invasions, dominions, aristocratic residences and monastic dwellings, in a complex and fascinating mosaic of nature, history, religiosity and traditions.

CASTLES AND FORTRESSES

Savelli Castle in Palombara Sabina.

S AV ELLI CASTLE

tle was abandoned (10th century), th e Ottaviani, a branch of th e Roman Crescenzi and eventually first lords of Palombara, settled th ere. At th at time th e castrum already h ad its quadrangular structure with th e ancient tower, but th e Ottaviani family provided it with new buildings and fortifications and gave it th e aspect it maintained for two centuries. It became property of th e Savelli family no sooner th an 1216, wh en Honorius III Savelli ordered th e restoration of th e Ch urch of San Biagio and perh aps built th e Ch urch of Sant’Egidio. Between th e 15th and 16th centuries th e aspect and function of th e castle ch anged, from fortress to auth entic baronial residence in Renaissance style. Th e apartments of th e masters, in th e sh ape of casemates, incorporated th e service areas; th e strongh old was connected to th e cylindrical tower and th e walls by a fortified bay, th e Wall of R escue, used by crossbowmen in times of attack. Th e significant frescoes in th e Hall known as “of th e R epublican Heroes” date from th e same period. Ordered by Cardinal Savelli to exalt th e valour of th e monarch y and of th e Roman Republic, th ey are lively and of excellent quality, to th e point of being

Palombara Sabina W ITH

ITS POSITION, THIS MAGNIFICENT, IMPOSING

determined th e urban development of th e first settlements in th e area. Today it is situated at th e centre of a precise and fascinating structure of concentric rings in th e medieval town of Palombara, at th e foot of Monte Gennaro. Th e first official mention is found in 1064, in th e Regesto Sublacense, and in th e same period sources indicate th e presence of th e fief of Columbaria ancient Palombara - belonging to Duke Alberico, a descendant of th e Lombard dynasty. It seems th at following th e Lombard invasions and raids (578 AD), a castrum, a specifically military encampment, was built around th e original nucleus (consisting of a cell used by h ermits as a refuge) wh ich in time became an urban settlement. In later times, owing to its strategic location, th e castrum longobardum was attacked by th e Saracens wh o took over th e castle in 875 and used it as an observation and defense base, as well as for th eir attacks on neigh bouring cities and on Rome. Wh en th e casCASTLE

the Monti lucretili and the salto cicol ano

C AT E

Castel S. Angelo

N A

8 57 SS

Belmonte in Sabina

Concerviano

N TE V

Lago del Salto

I C

alto eS um Fi

Riserva Naturale del Monte Cervia e del Monte Navegna

Scandriglia

Riserva Naturale Montagne della Duchessa

Montelibretti

Borgorose

Lago del Turano

N B I S A

no Tura Fiume

T I

Petrella Salto

Rocca Sinibalda

A 24

vere

e Te Fium

SS 4

ITINERARY 7

Antrodoco 4 SS

RIETI

attributed to th e S ch ool of R aph ael in th e first h alf of th e 16th century. Th e Castle remained property of th e Savelli until 1637 and maintained th e family name. In the late 1800s the Torlonia Princes purchased the estate which then passed on to the Sforza-Cesarini and finally Nazzano Romano in the last century it be caFara in Sabina me municipal property.

31 4

TAGLIACOZZO

Monte Velino 2487

A N

Cineto Romano

6 SS

A 24

CARSOLI-ORICOLA

San Giovanni MONTE GENNARO in Argentella Palombara Sabina Licenza

Palombara Sabina (RM): 35 km from Rome, by car from th e Via Salaria (even for th ose coming from Rieti) and th en along th e “Stada della Neve”, oth erwise Via Nomentana and th en Via Palombarense, or also from th e Via Tiburtina continuing for th e Via Maremmana. Natural Park of Monti Lucretili By car: for different accesses to the sections of the Park: Via Salaria (also for those coming from Rieti); SS 636 for Marcellina, Palombara Sabina, and San Paolo dei Cavalieri; A24 Roma-L’Aquila, exit Vicovaro-Mandela, continue along the Via Tiburtina and then the SS 314 Licinese.

TORANO

getting there

Parco Regionale Monti Lucretili

FIANO ROMANO

5 SS Arsoli

VICOVARO-MANDELA

By train: train line Roma-Pescara, stations of Tivoli and Vicovaro-Mandela.. R egional R eserves of the Monti Cervia and Navegna By car: Autostrada A24 Roma-L’Aquila-Teramo exit Carsoli-Oricola, or SS 5 Via Tiburtina up to Carsoli By train: FS stop in Rieti and continue with local bus lines.

CU R I OS I TI ES

F ORT R ES SES

The Palombella

the Castle of Rocca Sinibalda

One of the rooms in the Savelli Castle contains a bust of delicate and tender beauty known as the “Palombella”, an early work by French sculptor Jean Baptiste Carpeaux, made around 1855 when he was a “boarder” at the Academy of France in Rome, at Trintà dei Monti. The artist had fallen in love with Barbara Pasquarelli, a young girl from Palombara he had met by chance in Trastevere, in occasion of the grape harvest in the vineyards there, and who posed for this portrait. Their attachment was sincere and passionate but their lives commitment to art on his side, her family on hers - separated them. A few years later Carpeaux heard that the girl was very ill and according to tradition, rushed to Palombara to see her. It was the year 1861 and the two confessed their unchanged feelings for each other. Their love became a cherished memory for the artist after the premature death of the “Paolombella”.

In th e h eart of th e Turano Valley stands a fortress of great interest, th e Castle of R occa Sinibalda, symbol of th e life and h istory of th e town in th e Rieti area by th e same name, built by Cardinal Alessandro Cesarini in th e 16th century on a project by th e great arch itect Baldassarre Peruzzi. Th e imposing structure sh ows evidence of medieval stylistic th emes and is composed of a donjon, residences, courtyards towers and massive walls. As oth ers in th e neigh bouring area, th e estate was th e property of a wh ole succession of Italian aristocratic families, from th e Cesarini to th e Lante della Rovere, th e Sforza- Cesarini and th e Mattei.

ITINERARY

parks

T HE PARK OF THE MONTI L UCRETILI AND THE S ALTO CICOLANO EAGLES

AND A WONDERFUL BEECH-WOOD JUST AN

R OME? Th e Monti Lucretili are certainly one of th e surprises to be found close to th e city. On clear days th e rounded profile of th ese mountains can be seen even from th e terrace of th e Janiculum, as a backdrop for th e skyline of roofs and buildings of th e Eternal City. An advanced front of th e Appenines, th ese mountains form a south ern appendix of Sabina. Th e peaks are calcareous, never sh arp-looking, with wide Karstic tableland, fresh woods and small lakes forming th e natural setting of a rath er solitary environment. Th e area is enh anced by th e presence of th e nature reserve of Monte Navegna and Monte Cervia, instituted to safeguard - in two distinct nuclei - an important section of th e calcareous ridge between th e lak es Turano and del Salto.

HOUR FROM

Above: the Lake of the Duchessa.

the park in numbers R egional Park Monti Lucretili Management: Municipalities of Monteflavio, Montorio Romano, Moricone, Palombara Sabina, Marcellina, S. Paolo dei Cavalieri, Vicovaro, Roccagiovine, Licenza, Percile, Scandriglia, Orvinio, Poggio moiano, th e IX and X Comunità Montana Surface: 18, 204 h ectares - Instituted: 1989 Nature R eserve of Monte Navegna and Monte Cervia Management: Reg. Board Reserve of Monte Navegna and Monte Cervia Surface: 2,195 h ectares - Instituted: 1988

F L OR A

Nature R eserve Montagne della Duch essa Management: Municipality of Borgorose Surface: 3,543 h ectares - Instituted: 1990

Th e beech wood is striking for th e silence it offers. At times it feels like a deserted world, inh abited only by h uge tree trunks marked by time. Th e flora is very rich and multicoloured, with th e endemic Iris sabina and th e ch arming Turk’s cap lily. Above: Turk’s cap lily in bloom.

t h e M o n t i lu c r e t i l i a n d t h e s a lto c i c o l a n o

TYPICAL PRODUCTS

spelt from the Monti Lucretili Because of its resistance and adaptability, spelt is one of th e most ancient cereals; its cultivation dates to at least 7000 BC and its land of origin seems to be Palestine. Common in ancient Egypt, quoted in th e works of Homer, it was greatly valued also by th e ancient Romans wh o used it as â&#x20AC;&#x153;exch ange currencyâ&#x20AC;?. Th e s pelt from th e Monti Lucretili is a typical product of Lazio, recognized by th e Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry. In th e larger varieties it is th e basic ingredient of many local recipes, such as spelt tarts with almond flakes and pine-nuts, different types of pasta, including tagliatelle and stortini, and h ealth y soups.

FAUN A Th e natural symbol of th e Monti Lucretili is th e golden eagle th at nests in th e area. Th e presence of pern-h awks, sparrow-h awks and oth er varieties, is also worth mentioning. Th ere is no lack of mammals, wildcats and wolves along with martens, porcupines, h edgeh ogs, badgers, dormice and foxes, evidence of h ow th e area h as remained untouch ed by pollution. Above: porcupine.

ITINERARY

ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES

T HE A BBEY OF S AN GIOVANNI IN A R GENTELLA Palombara Sabina ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ABBEYS IN LAZIO, in imposing Romanesque style, it is a spiritual centre for the Benedictines and was declared national monument in 1895. Although information on its origins is imprecise, the Church was probably founded before the 9th century over the remains of an early Christian oratory (4th century). During the Lombard era (8th century), a new complex incorporated the original structure (crypt, main altar and ciborium), and its construction was completed only in the Romanesque period. The ancient Church of th e Argentella may have been named after the silver reflections on the surface of the spring water that to this day flows in the crypt and is traceable to groundwater tables of the valley floor. Outside, above the entrance to the Church, the presence of an insignia with a Greek cross (with four discs in between its arms), symbol of the Basilian monks, may indicate that it was founded by the Basilian monks of Eastern rite from Greece. It became property of the Benedictines as early as the 11th century, then in 1284 Pope Honorius IV Savelli donated it to the Guglielmites, followers of Guglielmo Malavalle, whose order was officially recognized by Innocent IV and that between the 13th and 14th centuries founded over sixty monasteries in Italy, France and Germany that all obeyed the rule of Saint Benedict. Owing to the impoverishment of the order, the Abbey was initially managed by commendatory abbots together with the Silvestrine monks, until it ended in a serious state of abandonment. Th anks to patient and careful restoration, today we can admire the imposing stone structure that on the outside of the longitudinal walls shows regular white stripes in calcareous stone. The Church is rich in Byzantine graffiti and preserves a very ancient fresco representing

The ancient Church of the Argentella.

St. Bernard. It is structured into three naves with three semi-circular apses with uncovered trussed ceilings, and a choir divided from the rest of the church by an archivolt. The bell tower still stands out against the greenery and is divided into four sections with single, double and triple lancet windows in Romanesque style. The annexed Convent is also in Romanesque style and is inhabited today by a lay community. The Abbey has always been an important reference point not only in its spiritual commitment, but also in the administrative and political life of the surrounding area. 44

t h e M o n t i lu c r e t i l i a n d t h e s a lto c i c o l a n o

Useful info SAV ELLI CASTLE

R egional Park of th e Monte Lucretili Piazza Vittorio Veneto 00018 Palombara Sabina (RM) Ph . +390774637027 www.parcolucretili.it www.montilucretili.it

R egional R eserve of Monte Navegna and Monte Cervia Via Roma, 35 02020 Varco Sabino (RI) Ph . +390765790048 www.navegnacervia.it Nature R eserve of the Montagne della Duch essa 02021 Corvaro di Borgorose (RI) Ph . +390746306493 www.riservaduch essa.it

00018 Palombara Sabina (RM) guided visits Saturday and Sunday 10-12am / 3-5pm (winter sch edule) 10-12am / 4-7pm (summer sch edule) Associazione â&#x20AC;&#x153;Amici del Castelloâ&#x20AC;? Info Comune Ph . +39077466055 R OCCA SINIBALDA CASTLE 02026 Rocca Sinibalda (RI) Via del Castello, 15 10-12am / 3-4pm (winter sch edule) 10-12am / 4-5pm (summer sch edule) Open from February to December Only Saturday and Sunday ABBEY OF SAN GIOVANNI IN AR GENTELLA

The two icons of the Virgin with the Child and Christ Pantocrator.

00018 Palombara Sabina (RM) Via Palombarese, KM. 34.200 Ph . +39077466093

A RT the Pergola C U R I OSI TI ES

At the end of the right side nave of the Church of th e Argentella, closing the chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, we find a Pergola supporting two icons representing the Virgin with the Ch ild and Christ Pantocrator. The two slabs of marble that function as a stand were made by Centurius - marble worker - who in 1170 decorated the base with Cosmatesque mosaic designs in porphyry, white and coloured marble, without the use of gilded tiles, in accordance with an ideal of simplicity, and whose beauty recalls that of the Cosmatesque ambo in the nearby Abbey of Farfa. Lamps hang from the architrave, following the model of the pergola in early Christian churches.

the well of Cineto Romano In Cineto Romano, along an ancient muletrack leading to Riofreddo, we find one of th ose works of man, maybe dating from R oman times, th at to th is day remain a mystery: an artificial well dug out of th e bare rock, over 500 metres deep, with about 6 metres of water at th e bottom and less th an 3 metres in diameter. Sch olars still debate its real function, alth ough a reference made by th e naturalist Pliny th e Elder wh o recommends digging deep wells to prevent earth quakes, could provide an interesting explanation.

ITINERARY

the MONTI SIMBRUINI

ROCKS, WOODS, PLAYS OF LIGHT AND INTENSE FRAGRANCES Along the age-old course of the Aniene river, valleys and mountains alternate with rocks and greenery, fortresses and churches, creating contrasting effects of great impact. The history of these fascinating places is very ancient and dates back to over one thousand years before Christ, when the valleys were still marshes and primitive tribes lived on the fortified heights...

CASTLES AND FORTRESSES

Castel San Pietro Romano, Colonna Castle: tower.

COLONNA CASTLE

In 1306, with Clement V, th e Colonna became lords of Palestrina again and regained possession of th eir lands, including th e fief of Castel San Pietro Romano, th us resuming th e work of reconstruction th at over th e centuries never ceased. In 1438, wh en Cardinal Vitellesch i ordered th eir expulsion, anoth er series of wars destroyed th eir properties, including th e fortress. Only th e peace between Lorenzo Colonna and Pope Nich olas V (1448) returned th e estates to th e Colonna wh o maintained th em until th e 17th century. Th e Castle was rebuilt in 1482, as indicated in th e famous inscription on th e turret of th e external bridge: MAGNIFICUS

Castel San Pietro R omano HISTORICALLY CONNECTED TO THE POLITICAL EVENTS of nearby Palestrina, th e town of Castel San Pietro Romano and its Castle h ave always maintained th e evocative atmosph ere of th eir ancient origins. Th e townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first settlement, on th e Monte Ginestro, dates to before th e foundation of th e Arx Praeneste, th e ancient strongh old of th e Latin city, object of constant sieges and invasions. Th e origins of th e fortress itself date to th e 10th century. In 970 Pope Joh n XIII requested th e fief of Palestrina from senator Stefania -h is sister- wh o built th e fortress already known as Rocca Preneste in 980 to protect th e town and its inh abitants. Th e Colonna family gained possession of th e fiefs in th e province from Palestrina to Zagarolo with Pietro, a descendant of Giovanni, senator Stefaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s neph ew. Following an accusation for simony made by th e Colonna family to Pope Boniface VIII in connection with h is allegedly illegitimate election, th e papacy claimed th e fief of Palestrina with a series of wars th at saw th e Roman nobles divested of all th eir possessions.

DOMINUS, STEPHANUS COLUMNA RAEDIFICAVIT CIVITATEM CUM MONTE ET ARCE MCDLXXXII.

Th e Princes rarely used it as th eir residence, at least in th e period of th e battles, and th e structure was used exclusively for defense. With its square plan and square towers at th e corners, th e rationality of its layout and its safety, th e Castle became th e r efuge of important personages in seek of protection, or even a secure prison, wh ose restricted spaces were h oused in th e cylindrical rampart at th e centre of th e structure. Illustrious people were imprisoned th ere: St. Bernard, Bish op of th e Marsi, Jacopone da Todi, Conrad of Sweden, and th e 46

the Monti simbruini painter Caravaggio. Arsoli V Th e typical castle arch itecture is still intact M Roviano Camerata Nuova I IN th anks to important restoration; inside we Fiu RT U m B ITINERARY 8 Cervara e find th e well to collect rainwater, used TI I T P ARCO R EGIONALE N in lieu of a source of spring water in O MONTI SIMBRUINI Ciciliano 1590 th e area, and on th e outside, th e 1853 Monte Calvo Monte Autore C Santuario della M M O N defensive moat surrounding th e Subiaco T Mentorella I S 1402 I M Monte Livata B R Guadagnolo structure and th e small bridge with U I Vallepietra N I NI I T S E MONTI PREN th e arch ed gate to access th e town. Vedute di Faito 1489 S.Vito Romano Jenne MONUMENTO NATURALE Once it lost its defensive function, Capranica VALLE DELLE CANNUCCETE Trevi nel Lazio Prenestina Altipiani di in time th e fortress decayed and in Castel San ne Arcinazzo Pietro Romano nie MONUMENTO NATURALE eA 1630 it became a property of th e Fium LA SELVA M SS Palestrina O 411 N T SS 155 Barberini family. I Gennazzano ICOVARO ANDELA

1 41 SS

ien An

ASTEL ADAMA

Filettino

E R N I C I Fiuggi

SS 6

Vico nel Lazio

VALMONTONE

getting there

COLLEFERRO

Anagni

Castel San Pietro R omano and Capranica Prenestina (RM) From Rome: Via Casilina or Via Prenestina up to Palestrina and continue to Capranica or Guadagnolo. A1 RM-NA: exit S. Cesareo; SS155 up to Palestrina and th en to Guadagnolo. A24 RM-AQ: exit Tivoli, direction Ciciliano-San Vito Romano. Arsoli (RM): A24 RM-AQ - Teramo: exit Roma Est-Bagni di Tivoli, continue along th e Via Tiburtina up to Arsoli. Subiaco (RM): A24 RM-AQ exit Mandela-Vicovaro; Via Tiburtina for 6 km up to th e entrance of th e SS 411, th en 17 km up to Subiaco, from wh ich th e road to th e monasteries departs. R egional Nature Park Monti Simbruini - Th e Park is easily reach ed by car from th ree sides. West side: A24 RM-AQ, exit Mandela-Vicovaro or Carsoli, th en Via Tiburtina.

ANAGNI-FIUGGI

South side: from th e Via Tiburtina Valeria, at th e h eigh t of Roviano, get onto th e Sublacense State Road for Subiaco. Directions both for Cervara di Roma (ca. 12 km), Monte Livata (12 km), Jenne and Vallepietra (25 km). East side, Trevi nel Lazio and Filettino: from th e Altipiani di Arcinazzo provincial road, past th e Bridge of th e Tartare and go up th e oth er extreme of th e Park (ca. 20 km). From th e Abruzzo side: A24 RM-AQ-Teramo, exit for Tagliacozzo. Cross th e Tiburtina Valeria and up towards Cappadocia, continue along a mountain road up to th e boundary with th e territory of Camerata Nuova.

Castel San Pietro Romano, Colonna Castle: slit in the fortress.

P R OTA GONI ST S

F ORT R ES SES

THE IMPRISONMENT OF JACOPONE DA TODI

the Massimo di Arsoli Castle This ancient residence dates to the end of the 10th century and became a possession of the family by the same name in 1574, when it was bought by the noble Fabrizio Massimo. Over the centuries the castle underwent numerous interventions. At present it is well preserved and houses evidence of a fascinating past: period furniture, ancient armour, documents and musical instruments. The magnificent halls are enriched with valuable frescoes on the ceilings and walls by the brothers Federico and Taddeo Zuccari (1557) and Marco Benefial (1749), a highly original representative of the Roman Academy. The Castle also has a Villa right next to it, along with a splendid Italian-style garden with a statue of the goddess Rome at its centre.

In 1298, wh en Palestrina was razed to th e ground by Boniface VIII, Broth er Jacopone da Todi was h eld captive in th e prison of th e Colonna Castle by order of th e pope h imself, against wh om h e h ad fough t in th e struggle with th e monastic movements. After th e accidental death of h is beloved wife, Countess Vanna of Coldimezzo (1268), Jacopone da Todi, noble lord of th e Deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Benedetti family, ch ose a path of repentance and became a h ermit and th en a Franciscan friar. He spent five years in prison in h arsh conditions. Isolation and suffering inspired some of h is greatest works, such as th e 102 Laudi and th e famous Stabat Mater.

Left: Pope Boniface VIII.

ITINERARY

parks

T HE R EGIONAL PARK OF THE MONTI S IMBRU INI THE LARGEST REGIONAL PARK IN LAZIO, th e Monti Simbruini, awaits us with all th e mystery and ch arm of an intact and wild natural area. At th e border with Abruzzo, th e protected area h as peaks of over two th ousand metres with rocky ridges and spectacular tablelands. Here, in th e vast forests of beech , life flourish es and awaits only to be discovered in every season, in an auth entic mountain setting only an h our away from Rome. It is a land of water th at imbues th e Karstic terrain and reemerges everywh ere in th e form of streams and waterfalls, supplying some of th e most important h ydraulic sources in th e region. Th e wealth of biological diversity is impressive. Woods stretch over two th irds of th e parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extension. Th ere are woods, such as Tagliata, Vallone, and Campo dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Osso, th at are th emselves worth a visit for th eir complexity, age and variety.

Above: The Regional Park of the Monti Simbruini.

the park in numbers R egional Natural Park of the Monti Simbruini Management: Board of Public Righ t Surface: 29,900 h ectares - Instituted: 1983 La Selva Natural Monument Management: La Selva Natural Monument Surface: 25 h ectares- Instituted: 2000 Valle delle Cannuccete Natural Monument Management: Municipality of Castel S. Pietro Surface: 20 h ectares - Instituted: 1995

F L OR A Gentians, bellflowers and wild lilies are common in th is natural environment. As many as 1246 species of plants h ave been registered in th e park, of wh ich 79 are considered at risk and especially protected. Spring in th ese parts is an explosion of colour. Beech leaves.

the MONTI SIMBRUINI

TYPICAL PRODUCTS

THE BLACK TRUFFLE OF CERVARA In th e h eart of th e P ark of th e Monti Simbruini, in a town at th e foot of Monte San Bartolomeo called Cervara, we find th e black truffle named after it, a truly precious typical product and th e pride of th e area. Th e black truffle of Cervara is an ingredient of delicious fettuccine and tasty brusch etta. Th ere are different seasons for its tasting, th e long winter period for th e most valuable variety (Tuber Melanosporum Vitt), and th e Autumn for th e more common, but not less flavourful, Ordinary Black Truffle (Tuber Masentericum Vitt).

FAUN A Every excursionistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dream: sighting an eagle, symbol of strength and wild nature! Thanks to the protection assigned to it and to its presence in the parks, this species is slowly recovering, allowing us to be optimistic in our bird-watching.

Above: golden eagle.

ITINERARY

ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES

T HE MONASTERY OF S AN B ENEDETTO AND THE A BBEY OF S ANTA S COLASTICA Subiaco IN THE HEART OF THE A NIENE VALLEY , on an isolated h ill, Subiaco seems to silently watch over its arch aeological and arch itectural treasures, constantly recalling th e intense h istory and mysticism of th e place in wh ich in th e 5th century St. Benedict ch ose to spend a period of prayer and meditation. Th e th ree years of monastic retreat were spent in a rocky h ermitage later known as th e Grotto of th e Sacro Speco, ideal focus of th e entire Monastery of San Benedetto, th at in fact contains a statue of th e Saint illuminated by th irteen oil lamps. Th e imposing monastic complex was built starting from th e 13th century and follows th e unevenness of th e rocky face of Monte TalĂ¨o on wh ich it is situated and th at, like th e structure itself, overh angs th e valley below. Th e most ancient parts, some of wh ich dug out of th e rock, represent to th is day th e daily life of th e Saint and h is spiritual experience: th e Holy Wood, th rough wh ich th e Convent is accessed, th e Grotto of th e Sacro Speco, wh ere h e spent h is years of isolation, th e Grotto of the Sheph erds, wh ere h e met th e local sh eph erds for h is preach ing, th e Holy Staircase, th at facilitated h is way to th e Grotto. Th ose were th e years of th e codification of th e norms th at would regulate th e life of th e Benedictine order for centuries, and during wh ich St. Benedict promoted th e construction of oth er twelve monasteries in th e Aniene Valley, alth ough th e only surviving one is th e nearby Abbey of Santa Scolastica. In later times, th e Chapel of Gregorio Magno (or of th e Angels), th e Upper Church, with a rectangular plan and th e Lower one, formed by ch apels on different levels (14th century), were built around th e Sacro Speco. Close by we find th e Abbey of Santa

Subiaco: Monastery of the Sacro Speco.

Scolastica (dedicated to Saint Benedictâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s twin sister starting from th e 15th century), an important cultural and spiritual centre, as indicated by th e presence of a very ancient and rich Library and th e Archive containing copies of ancient codexes. Th e Abbey captivates visitors with its stylistic variety, already evident in th e 12th century facade, in th e marvelous portal, and in th e Romanesque bell tower, th ough t to be th e oldest in central Italy. Th e structure is centred around th ree cloisters, constructed in different periods; th e first we meet dates to 1580 and contains two columns recuperated from th e imposing villa Emperor Nero built near Subiaco. Th e courtyard providing access to th e ch urch dates from 1052 and is featured by small ogive arch es, wh ereas th e elegant Cosmatesque arch itecture makes th e last cloister, from th e 12th -13th century, th e most precious and truly emblematic of monastery life. Th e Ch urch was built in 981, restructured in goth ic style during th e 13th century, and its interior was renovated later in accordance with Neoclassical taste.

the MONTI SIMBRUINI

Useful info COLONNA CASTLE

R egional Park of th e Monti Simbruini Via Roma, 20 - Jenne (RM) Ph . +390774827219/21

Natural Monument La Selva Comune - Piazza Santa Maria, 4 00030 Genazzano (RM) Ph . +39069579010 Natural Monument Valle delle Cannuccette Comune - Via Vittorio Veneto 00030 Castel San Pietro (RM) Ph . +39069538481

Castel San Pietro Romano (RM) Tourist Information c/o Comune Ph ./fax +39069538481 MONASTERY OF SAN BENEDETTO SACR O SPECO Via dei Monasteri 00028 Subiaco (RM) Ph . +39077485039 Visits: 9-12:30am / 3-6pm MONASTERY OF SANTA SCOLASTICA

Left: Subiaco, Sacro Speco: frescoes.

Via dei Monasteri, 22 00028 Subiaco (RM) Ph. +39077482421 benedettini@farma-it.com Visits:9-12am / 4-6:30pm (winter) 9-12:30am / 4-7pm (summer) Biblioteca Monastero Santa Scolastica Ph. +39077485424 - Fax +39077483330 scolastica@librari.beniculturali.it Opening times: 8:30am-6:30pm Closed h olidays; Sat.8:30am-1:30pm

C U R I OSI TI ES A RT

the SANcTUARy of the MENTORELLA

the frescoes

On Monte Guadagnolo, th e h igh est peak of th e Monti Prenestini, at an altitude of 1218 mt, we find a place wh ere art, faith and nature coexist in an unreal silence, pervaded by th e fragrance of an ancient â&#x20AC;&#x153;sweet-smelling mintâ&#x20AC;?. Th e Sanctuary of th e Mentorella - th e most ancient in Italy - was founded th anks to Constantine, th e first Ch ristian emperor, 1800 years ago. According to Ch ristian tradition, Saint Eustach io h ad a miraculous vision of Ch rist on th is site at th e time of th e Emperor Hadrian (117-138 AD) and so later Constantine decided to erect a ch urch h ere wh ich was th an consecrated by Pope Silvester. Th e strong religiosity and h armony of th is place are represented by th e sweetness of its symbol, said to h ave miraculous powers: a statue of th e Madonna of th e Mentorella, a precious 13th century wooden sculpture by a Lazio worksh op, embedded with gems and pearls. It is preserved in th e main altar of th e Ch urch , founded in th e 4th century, with a simple h ut facade in medieval style.

In addition to th e wealth of its spiritual message, th e Monastery of San Benedetto also h ouses truly unique artistic treasures. Its interiors, with th eir wonderful frescoes, offer a virtual reconstruction of th e work of th e painting sch ool of central Italy, from th e 14th century on. Th e Lower Ch urch contains Sienese paintings, th e Ch apel of th e Angel h as frescoes from th e 13th century and th e famous portrait of St. Francis (1223) by a local monk; th e Upper Church contains Stories from th e Life of Ch rist painted by artists from Siena in th e 14th century (front part) and frescoes from th e Umbria and March e sch ool of th e first h alf of th e 15th century representing episodes of th e life of St. Benedict. Th e Grotto of the Shepherds contains a last treasure, a precious 9th century, late-Byzantine fresco of th e Virgin Mary with th e Ch ild.

ITINERARY

the liri valley and the mainarde

A MYSTIC ATMOSPHERE, MIRACULOUS HERBS, LONG LOST FLAVOURS Millenary worship, faith and spirituality, great historical figures and strong cultural forces, artistic treasures and unaltered traditions, the silence of nature and curious phenomena. Let us grant ourselves some time off to breathe in the essence of these places, all deeply connected with Ciociaria.

CASTLES AND FORTRESSES

THE LONGHI DE PAOLIS CASTLE

Fumone: exterior of the Longhi De Paolis Castle.

Fumone

an outpost for South ern Italy and as a papal prison, starting from th e 11th century. Th is was th e prison of h ermit Pietro da Morrone, better known as Cele st ine V , th e pope wh o renounced th e pontificate and abdicated in 1294 as a sign of protest against an ecclesiastic system h e did not acknowledge. Owing to th is “great refusal” Dante placed h im among th e sloth ful (Inferno, Canto V). After numerous escapes, h e was captured by order of h is successor Pope Boinface VIII and h eld in th e Castle, wh ere h e died after ten month s of h arsh imprisonment, in 1296. In 1584 Marquis Giovanni Longh i, descendent of Boniface VIII, bough t th e property and requalified th e ancient manor, abandoned at th e time, and transformed it into an aristocratic residence of great taste and value. Today we can admire, along with th e perfectly preserved h alls, th e service structures th at best reveal th e customs of th e time: th e drawbridge, th e moats and roof garden (th e h igh est in Europe), th e h alls and th e rooms of th e guard, th e evocative bays used for rounds, th e wells and cisterns.

Th e fortress is a valuable example of an aristocratic residence with a strong military and medieval ch aracter. Its position at th e top of Monte Fumone (783mt), wh ich also offers a splendid view from th e Liri Valley to th e Colli Albani, already indicated its different functions, strategic, political and residential. Th e origins of th e fortress are ancient and unclear, but even before th e Middle Ages, tigh tly connected with its function as watch tower. In medieval times, its strategic location led it to be part of an auth entic communication system, aptly summed up in an ancient motto: “Si Fumo fumat, tota campanea tremet”. In fact th e Castle worked as a centre for sigh ting and giving th e alarm in occasion of th e invasion of th e surrounding area; smoke from th e tower warned Rome and th e entire territory of possible attacks drawing near. Always tied to th e ancient Longh i family, th at was granted th e fief of Fumone by Pope Innocent III in 1210, th e Castle was under ecclesiastic dominion for 500 years and used as 52

the liri valle y and the m ainarde ITINERARY 9

getting there

Monna Pica 1061 Monte Civitella 1131

La Monna 1951

Vico nel Lazio 1 SS 41

RISERVA REGIONALE LAGO DI CANTERNO

Fumone

1057 Monte San Giacomo

Veroli

E R N I C I

Sora

RISERVA REGIONALE LAGO DI POSTA FIBRENO

14 SS 2

Posta Fibreno Isola del Liri

FROSINONE FROSINONE

Arpino

5 SS

SS 6

CEPRANO

Fiu

Fumone (FR): A1 MI-NA, from Rome, exit Anagni/Fiuggi Terme, SS6 Via Casilina up to Ferentino and junction for Fumone; from Naples, exit Frosinone, SS “Monti Lepini” direction Fiuggi, SS6 up to Ferentino and junction for Fumone. Isola del Liri (FR): A1 MI-NA, exit Frosinone, SS “Monti Lepini” towards Sora, MO after 30 km junction for Isola del Liri. NT I D Veroli (FR): A1 MI-NA, exit Rocca Altiera EL 2085 Frosinone, SS “Monti Lepini” towards L Fiuggi, after 6 km junction for Veroli. PARCO NAZIONALE Collepardo (FR) A1 MI-NA, from ABRUZZO-LAZIO Rome exit Anagni/Fiuggi Terme, 1657 Monte Corno 2039 SS155 for Fiuggi, continue towards Monte Cavallo SS 627 Vico nel Lazio and Collepardo, from Atina Naples, exit Frosinone, SS “Monti LE MAIN AR Lepini” towards Fiuggi and after Alatri, D E junction for Collepardo. Cassino (FR): A1 MI-NA, exit Cassino. Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise A1 exit Frosinone, SS “Monti Lepini”, towards Fiuggi, after 6 km junction for Veroli (SP Verolana Seconda) and continue towards Prato di Campoli; oth erwise A1 exit Cassino, h igh way for Sora-Avezzano and at Atina junctions for S. Biagio Saracinisco or Picinisco. Regional Reserve Lago di Canterno - A1 exit Anagni/Fiuggi Terme SS155 direction Fiuggi. Nature Reserve Lago di Posta Fibreno - A1, from Rome exit Frosinone, from Naples exit Cassino. High way for Sora up to th e exit for Sora, SS for Atina-Cassino for about 12 km until you find th e junction for Posta Fibreno on th e left. A

Ferentino SS 6

Alatri

Monte La Rocca 1925

Fiu

Anagni

Certosa di Trisulti Collepardo M O N T I

me Liri

Fiuggi

Sacco

Cassino PONTECORVO

CU R I OS I T I ES ARCHEOLOGICAL CHARTS AND STELLAR ALIGNEMENTS According to legend, when the Greek god Kronos was overthrown by Zeus, he found refuge in Lazio and originated the Golden Age. For the Romans he became Saturn, the god of sowing, and founded five fortified cities in Ciociaria: Anagni, Ferentino, Alatri, Arpino and Atina, all of them built on the median line of the Gemini constellation. Official science and archaeology never provided an explanation, but some scholars have proven the almost perfect correspondence between the stellar charts and land cartograph y of Southern Lazio and the location of the cities. The hypothesis is that these sites may have been in the past points of anomalous energy tied to the stars and this may have allowed the Pelasgians or their local successors, the Ernici, to move the enormous blocks, a possible explanation, defying all laws of gravity, to understand the building process of the acropoli. All we need to consider is that Alatri is surrounded by a wall made of gigantic blocks and that the large gate, known as “of the Civita”, is 4,50mt tall, 2,68mt wide, and the single stone of the architrave is 5,30mt wide and 1,80mt tall, for 1,65mt of depth, which converted into volume means 15 cubic mt. and a weight of many tons.

F ORT R ES SES the Boncompagni Viscogliosi castle In the historical centre of Isola del Liri the river divides into two branches, and the Castle Boncompagni-Viscogliosi stands in the vicinity of the Great Waterfall. Mentioned in a manuscript from 1100, it originally belonged to the Church, later to the Della Rovere Dukes and towards the end of the 1500s it was passed on to the Boncompagni. With its medieval tower, courtyard, park with a spring, the fortress had a strategic and defensive function not only for the nearby town, but for the entire plane of Sora and the valley beneath. Its history of wealth, splendour and political intrigue, is characteristic of the families who lived there. The finely decorated halls, such as the R oom of the Swallows with its 17th century frescoes with episodes from the Old Testament, and the Room of the Stuccoes, with its 18 bas-reliefs from the early 1600s, are worth a visit.

ITINERARY

parks

THE N ATIONAL PAR K OF A BRUZZO, L AZIO AND MOLISE AND THE R EGIONAL R ESERVES OF THE L AKE CANTERNO AND P OSTA FIBR ENO THE WATERS LOOKING UP TO THE MOUNTAINS, recalling their origin, give life to Lake Canterno. The thickets of poplars and willows, and the legendary â&#x20AC;&#x153;floating islandâ&#x20AC;? of Posta Fibreno (already known to Pliny the Elder, the first naturalist in Western history), face the nearby mountains of Abruzzo. In a setting of great natural beauty, between cultivated fields and meadows and because of their clean waters, these two nature reserves host very rich wildlife. Nearby, the National Park of Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise, one of first in Italy, offers one of the most intense experiences of wilderness available in the country. All the great Apennine fauna lives and thrives there. Bear footprints left in the snow or in the woods, traces of the presence of wolves and their howling at dusk, the flight of eagles across the sky, chamois jumping on the rocks in perfect freedom, all call out to the need for wild nature in everyone of us. The Lazio side descends from the ridges of Monte La Rocca and leads to the wide basin of the Comino Valley and to the beech-wood of Carbonara Valley. Among woods and forests, peaks and valleys, rivers and waterfalls, this part of Lazio is a natural jewel worth knowing and visiting to experience the passing of the seasons day by day.

Above: Lake Canterno.

the park in numbers

F L OR A National Park of Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise Management: Th e Park Board Surface: 43,900 +60,000 h ectares protected externally Instituted: 1923 (Park Board: 1951) Nature R eserve of Lak e Canterno Management: Special Consortium Company Surface: 1,824 h ectares - Instituted: 1997 Nature R eserve of th e Lak e of Posta Fibreno Management: Municipality of Posta Fibreno Surface: 345 h ectares - Instituted: 1983

Th e parks are th e reign of clear and running water, free from pollution and alterations. Th is is th e h ome of duckweed and cress, th at along with oth er species of water plants, offer a safe refuge for fish and amph ibians. Above: aquatic vegetation.

t h e L I R I VA L L E y a n d t h e M A I N A R D E

B OTA NY THE LAND OF HERBS For twenty years Collepardo has been at the centre of an intense study of the immense botanical patrimony of the area of the Monti Ernici, where, between 200 and 2.100mt above sea level, 1200 botanical species classified in 150 families, can be found. The Botanical Garden of the Flora of the Ernici houses 500 spontaneous species of Apennine flora, including

the Salvia Officinalis, common in the mountains and the basin of the River Liri and already known in the Roman world as a panacea for its therapeutic properties. Along the Flower Path, for 4km there are charts describing the over 60 varieties of flowers present in the area. Lazier visitors may prefer the ancient Herb Museum in the town, with its display of dried plants and courses of botany and phytotherapy.

TYPICAL PRODUCTS

honey and GRAPPA Th e bees th at populate th e Lazio side of th e National Park of Abruzzo produce excellent h oney in different varieties: acacia h oney with a dry flavour, ch estnut h oney with its rich , aged taste, th yme or eucalyptus h oney with th erapeutic qualities, and th e classic wildflower, fresh and delicate. In th e h eart of Ciociaria we find th e largest Italian plant for th e production of grap pa. Tech nology and tradition coexist in th e distillation of wine products, always a typical activity in th e area, and maintain th e flavour of traditional Italian brandy and of grappa, aged in durmast.

FAUN A Everyone would like to see a bear, even if we are afraid. Yet our brown bear is a tranquil omnivore th at rarely attacks th e grazing flocks and keeps at a safe distance from man. Th ose wh o are lucky enough to h im in th e wild never forget. He is th e true symbol of wildlife.

Above: brown bear.

ITINERARY

ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES

T HE A BBEY

OF CASAMAR I Veroli

FOR OVER 1500 YEARS CIOCIARIA , with its numerous h istorical abbeys, h as welcomed expressions of spirituality and Ch ristian faith . Monasteries were founded mostly th anks to th e work of Saint Benedict (480-547), and h ave always been centres for study, meditation and prayer in wh ich th e Rule establish ed by th e saint is respected to th is day. Th e structure of th ese abbey complexes reflects th e style and rh yth m of daily spiritual life inspired by th e Benedictine Rule, in a social micro-system organized for total autonomy. Near Veroli we find th e Abbey of Casamari, originally erected (1035) above th e ruins of th e ancient Roman city of “Cereatae Marianae”, th anks to th e work of four priests wh o founded a Benedectine monastic community th ere. Th rough th e centuries it became a lively cultural centre with th e Cistercians, to wh om it was assigned in 1151. In th ose same years th e Abbey was reconstructed in th e goth ic-Cistercian style, perfectly preserved to th is day. Austere portals and wide arch es are th e features of th e monastic complex: th e cloister, refectory, living quarters of th e monks, ph armacy and magnificent Capitular Room, severe and linear in its th ree naves with ribbed vaults and a true arch itectural treasure, confirm th e fame of th e Abbey of Casamari as a goth ic-Cistercian masterpiece. Th e Ch urch itself - built in 1203 and consecrated in 1217 - is imposing in its facade, with th e rich central portal, and essential in th e interior wh ich h as an Egyptian cross plan in th ree naves (of Burgundian and Cistercian influence) and th e cross vaults sustained by sh eaf pillars and small pensile columns, typical of th e goth ic style. Yet th e Abbey of Casamari is famous above all for th e galenic activity of its monks and its ancient ph armacy. Th e existence of an auth entic ph armacy is officially mentioned in 1711, alth ough 160 varieties of officinal plants were already cultivated in th e

Veroli, Abbey of Casamari: interior.

monastery garden during its Golden Age. 1761 seems to be th e date of th e official foundation and th e activity increased over th e following years. Th e Epistolario De Jacobis, preserved in th e abbey Arch ive, indicates th at Fra’ Giacobbe Margione bough t only some particular plants in Rome and wh en h e obtained th e license of apoth ecary in 1822, th e ph armacy was opened to th e public. It also became a study and preparation centre for lay ph armacists under th e direction of Don Giacomo Verrelli wh o invented th e preparations th at made th e ph armacy of Casamari famous, such as th e seven-h erb elixir and th e ancient imperial tincture, of th e modern distillery. Th e rich Painting Gallery and Museum are also worth a visit.

t h e L I R I VA L L E y a n d t h e M A I N A R D E

Useful info ABBEY OF MONTECASSINO LONGHI DE PAOLIS CASTLE National Park of Abruzzo, Lazio, Molise Ph . +39086391131 www.parcoabruzzo.it

Ph. +39077549023 347-4381399-333-9154141 Museum hours: 10-12:30am / 3-6:30pm ABBEY OF CASAMAR I

R egional R eserve of Lake Canterno c/o Comune Fumone Via Risorgimento 2 - 03010 FR Ph .+39077549022 R egional R eserve of th e Lake of Posta Fibreno Ph . +390776887184/888021 lago.posta.fibreno@parch ilazio.it

03020 - Veroli - Casamari (FR) Ph. +390775282371 Visits: 9-12am / 3-6pm Library: Ph ./Fax +390775282800 abbazia@casamari.it casamari@librari.beniculturali.it Visits, holidays excluded: 8:30am-5:30pm Saturdays: 8:30-12am

03043 - Cassino (FR) - Tel. +390776311529 montecassinoarchivio@libero.it Visits: 8:30-12:30am / 3:30-5pm - (6 hour legal) Library: Ph. +390776311529 - Fax +390766311010 montecassino@librari.beniculturali.it Visits, h olidays excluded: 8.30-12am For guided tours: Ph +390776311529 ABBEY OF TRISULTI Via Trisulti, 8 - 03010 - Collepardo (FR) Ph./fax +39077547024 Visits: 9:30-12am / 3:30-6pm-apr/sept 9:30-12am / 3:30-5:30pm-oct/mar Library: Ph./fax +39077547025 trisulti@librari.beniculturali.it Visits, h olidays excluded: 8:30am-3pm Tues and Th urs; 8:30-12:30am Sat. BOTANICAL GAR DEN â&#x20AC;&#x153;FLOR A ER NICAâ&#x20AC;? and Herb Museum

Ancient pharmacy: detail of the frescoes

03010 - Collepardo (FR) Visits: 9-13am / 3-6pm-apr/sept Sunday and Saturday Oth er days with prenotation Ph . +393474422642-3489232809

CHARTERHOUSES SAN DOMENICO of TRISULTI and the PhARMACy

H I S TOR Y the ABBey of MONTECASSINO

Despite its Benedictine origin (San Domenico da Foligno, 10th century), th is building complex was rebuilt in 1204 according to th e Carth usian and Cistercian style and tradition, by Carth usian Fath ers from Piedmont by order of Pope Innocent III. Th e Ch arterhouse of Trisulti is one of th e most ancient arch itectural examples of its type and owes its fame to th e h erbal preparations of th e monks. Saint Barth olomew dispensed h is cures h ere and th e ancient ph armacy (1763) was always very active. Th e 18th century rooms, decorated by Neapolitan painter Filippo Balbi, preserve th e collections of antique vases, bronze mortars and wooden boxes. Th e production of traditional liquors is still active.

Saint Benedict from Norcia founded it in 529, but it was devastated by the Lombards (580) and the Saracens (883), and totally destroyed during World War II (1944). The abbey was rebuilt every time and its Latin and Christian culture was maintained and preserved. On this site the promoter of Western monasticism established the principles of the Rule (540) - liturgy, reading of sacred texts and manual labor - and was buried (547) with his sister Saint Scolastica. The relics were found in 1950 and are now preserved in the crypt from 1557. Starting from the 8th century, the abbey became a centre of culture, especially in the transcription of ancient works according to the Benevento writing technique, and for its Library, a national monument which houses rare works including 40,000 parchments, codexes and incunabula (15th century). The Apothecary is known for the work of the monks with herbs and pigments, for the production of medicaments and distilled waters and liquors, as well as for the beautifully cared for Hortus Sanitatis.

ITINERARY

the monti lepini, ausoni and aurunci

NATURE PROVIDES AN OPEN-AIR SPECTACLE We conclude our journey by exploring a border area. The South of the peninsula starts here, the planes of Lazio are bound by the sea, and yet these geographic confines are also precious occasions for culture exchanges, that have always marked the destiny of these lands and their people. The beauty of the landscape and its characteristic features offer an exciting experience.

CASTLES AND FORTRESSES

Semoneta: view of the Town and of Caetani Castle.

CAETANI CASTLE

Pope Alexander VI Borgia to turn it into a real fortress, th e â&#x20AC;&#x153; Citadelâ&#x20AC;?, wh ich was designed to include th e construction of a fortified residence (th e House of th e W HEN S ERMONETA BECAME A FIEF OF THE A NNIBALDI Cardinal), still part of th e structure. On th e outside th e castle was surrounded by five concentric defense family (1222), th e preexisting fortress (dating at least to th e 11th century) was reinforced: th e only surviving ele- lines, according to th e medieval model, so th at th e ments of th e original structure visible today are th e inh abited area was incorporated into th e circuit of Donjon and th e counter-tower. Excellent observation walls, forming an auth entic fortified town. point over th e entire Pontine plane, th e Castle imme- From th e 13th century, with th e exception of th e Borgia diately acquired a decisive role in th e control of th e years, th e castle belonged for long periods to th e traffic routes between th e coast and th e mountains, Caetani family and, th anks to a total restoration at th e Rome and th e South . beginning of th e last century - at th e time In 1297 th e Annibaldi sold th e fiefs of of Gelasio Caetani - it is still perfectly preSermoneta and Bassiano to th e noble Caetani served. Th e complex of buildings, a typical family for 140 th ousand gold Florins, and from example of defensive arch itecture, h as a th at moment th e entire area th rived. In th ose powerful and majestic appearance, with its years th e Castle was completely restructured central nucleus supporting th e system of and new sections were added, including th e fortified walls and ramparts. famous Hall of th e Barons, 22mt long. In th e Th e h alls and rooms are beautiful: th e Hall of th e Barons, th e House with th e Painted early 1500s, th e town of Sermoneta was assaultR ooms, with frescoes by a student of th e ed by th e unrestrainable Borgia family th at Pinturicch io sch ool, and th e Large conquered it along with th e Castle. Caetani Castle: Battery, a long corridor, th e Stables and Consequently, Antonio da Sangallo th e Elder drawbridge. Parade Ground. - great military arch itect - was commissioned by

Sermoneta

the Monti lepini, ausoni and aurunci M O N T I

L E P I N I

Ceccano iu

Abbazia di Valvisciolo Sermoneta

6 15

cco

CEPRANO

Lago di San Giovanni Incarico

ITINERARY PONTECORVO 10

eno CASSINO

Pico

SS 628

Pontecorvo

Fossanova

SAN VITTORE

Lenola SS 7

Lago di Fogliano

MONUMENTO NATURALE MOLA DELLA CORTESETTECANNELLE-CAPODACQUA

Santuario Madonna della Civita

Lago di Fondi

3 21

Fi u

Terracina

Itri

PARCO REGIONALE MONTI AURUNCI 1023 Monte Orso

Scauri Monte Cristo 197

getting there Sermoneta (LT)- A1 MI-NA, from Rome exit Valmontone-Sermoneta, from Naples exit Frosinone, SS156 Monti Lepini towards Sezze Scalo and junction for Sermoneta. From Rome, SS 148 Pontina direction Latina, exit Latina Scalo FS-Sermoneta. Th e Abbey of Valvisciolo is 3,5 km from th e town of Sermoneta. Bassiano (LT) - A1 MI-NA, exit Frosinone, SS156 “Monti Lepini” for Sezze Scalo Latina up to th e Via Appia and turn righ t for Latina Scalo: Or from Rome SS148 Pontina direction Borgo Piave Latina and turn for Latina Scalo: From th ere follow directions for Norma and Bassiano. Priverno (LT) A1 MI-NA, junction for Frosinone, SS156 “Monti Lepini” direction Priverno. From Rome, Via Appia direction Latina, at th e junction with th e SS156 turn for Sezze Priverno. Th e abbey is 6km from th e town.

PARCO REGIONALE MONTE ORLANDO

Formia Gaeta

Ausonia

Monte Cavecce 1294 1321 Monte Forte

A U R U N C I

iglia

T I M O N

A U S O N I

eG ar

seno me

M O N T I

Fi u

48 o

Monte Faggeto

Fondi

Ama

1 SS Si st

1256

Lago di Caprolace

Esperia

Campodimele

Lago dei Monaci

SS 63 0

Priverno

e m Fiu

156 SS

Sezze LATINA

Bassiano

Minturno

PARCO REGIONALE GIANOLA E MONTE DI SCAURI

Itri (LT) - A1 MI-NA, exit Ceprano and SS82 Valle del Liri, h ead south for Itri, at th e junction proceed towards th e Santuario della Madonna della Civita (about 12km from Itri). National Park of the Monti Aurunci - A1 exit Cassino, towards Formia you find th e municipalities of Esperia and Ausonia, exit Pontecorvo in th e direction of Pico. By train: from th e Formia station, bus service to th e Municipalities of th e Park. Suburban Park of Gianola and Monte di Scauri - A1 exit Cassino, direction Formia. From Rome, SS7 Via Appia, access roads to th e Park are situated between km146 and km 148.

P R OTA GONI ST S

CU R I OS I T I ES

LUCREZIA BORGIA

the SPIRAL of BASSIANO

One of th e illustrious guests of th e Caetani Castle in Sermoneta, sh e lived th ere towards th e end of th e 1400s, wh en h er fath er Rodrigo Borgia, Pope Alexander VI expropriated th e Caetani family. Very young and gentle at th e time, sh e was used by h er broth er Cesare and h er fath er for th e advancement of th eir political interests and married off th ree times to men sh e never ch ose. It was said th at during h er sh ort but intense life (1480-1519), th e ch arming Lucrezia was never really h appy. Intellectually engaging, sh e expressed h er strong personality and intelligence in th e creation of a splendid court life. Wh en sh e married h er th ird h usband Alfonso I d’Este (1501) and became Duch ess of Ferrara, sh e surrounded h erself with th e most brilliant individuals in Italian Renaissance culture.

Walking th rough th e ancient streets of th is medieval town also rich in Renaissance recollections, we discover th e peculiarity of its urban layout. Th e ancient part of th e town, protected by a circular wall (12th -13th centuries), h as a unique “spiral” structure in wh ich th e h ouses and th e main street with its pavement made of small cubes, develop in a h elix up to th e Piazza della “Torre”. Th e presence of th e imposing cylindrical structure at th e top, raised and paved with small stone cubes, provides an even greater evocative ch arm; it seems time h as stopped. Th is is th e birth place of Aldo Manuzio th e Elder, typograph er of th e 1400s, famous for inventing th e “aldino” type, an italic inspired by th e writing of th e Roman ch ancellery. A museum h as been dedicated to h is work.

ITINERARY

parks

T HE REGIONAL PARK OF THE MONTI AURUNCI FROM THE BREATHTAKING CLIFFS of th e regional park s of Gianola and Monte Orlando, th e peregrine h awk attacks th e exh austed migrating birds coming and going from Africa. A complex of calcareous mountains dropping into th e sea surrounds th e south ern section of Lazio, th e Ausoni and Aurunci mountains, th at along with th e Lepini precipitate into th e sea with th e beautiful cliffs of Sperlonga. Wh en impenetrable forests covered th is area it was th e reign of bandits of all kinds: today we find a low bush area with sh rubs, terebinth , broom and h eath er. Only on th e cooler mountainside do we find a scrub of h olm oak, manna-ash , field maple, cork-trees, h ornbeam and durmast. In a landscape wh ere Lazio meets Campania, th e sunny, solitary, wild beauty of th e Aurunci truly stands out. Th e regional park is very famous for its botanical complexity and h as around two th ousand registered species. From th e woods of h olm oak to th e cliff vegetation, in th e space of a few kilometers we go from beech woods to woods covered with orch ids and saxifrages on th e mountain ridges. Th e gentler cliffs are th e h ome of auth entic botanical rarities such as th e Sternbergia lutea, th e Euph orbia serrata and th e Bupleurum rolii. Th e side facing th e sea h as typically Mediterranean woods, with h olm oak and cork trees and beech furth er north .

Above: panoramic view of the Monti Ausoni.

the park in numbers

F L OR A

National Park of th e Monti Aurunci Management: Park Board Surface: 19,374 h ectares - Instituted: 1997

Th e Mediterranean bush is th e symbol of Nature th at resists everyth ing: wind, rain, fire. Mastic and strawberry trees, cistus, daph ne, h eath er and all th e oth er species, cover th e green h ills and mountains in every season.

Urban Park of Monte Orlando Management: Municipality of Gaeta Surface: 60 h ectares - Instituted: 1986 Suburban Park of Gianola and Monte di Scauri Management: Consortium of th e Municipalities of Formia and Minturno. Surface: 290 h ectares - Instituted: 1987

Above: Dafne Sericea.

the MONTI lepini, AUSONI and AURUNCI

TYPICAL PRODUCTS

Honey from the PONTINe plane Recognized as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;traditional productâ&#x20AC;? of Lazio by th e Ministry of Agriculture, th e h oney of th e eucalyptus monoflora type is collected and manufactured in th e Pontine Plane. Every year in occasion of summer blossoming, th ousands of h ives rush h ere, especially from th e surrounding areas and th e north . Th is particular type of h oney is made th anks to th e presence of th e Eucalypttus camaldulensis, a tree planted in abundance in th e Agro Romano and in th e area of Latina in th e last century by monks to favour th e reclaiming of th e marsh y land. Intensely aromatic, not very sweet and with balsamic properties, it is th e ingredient of a refresh ing natural beverage made with water, eucalyptus h oney and lemon juice.

FAUN A Th is is th e reign of th rush es and blackbirds, starlings, and robins, Sardinian warblers and magpies, jays, along with owlets and barn owls. Th e peregrine h awk is th e fastest bird of prey. Wh en it dives it can reach 300 km an h our. Th ere is no escape. Yet it is th e only one in real danger, as it needs peaceful cliffs to nest in and finds safety only in parks. Mammals in th e area include h edgeh ogs, foxes, weasels and dormice. Above: peregrine hawk.

ITINERARY

ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES

T HE A BBEY OF V ALV ISCIOLO Sermoneta IN

THE LAND WHERE THE RULES OF HISTORY HAVE

ALWAYS BEEN DICTATED BY POWER AND FAITH,

th e Abbey of Valvisciolo h as always been an important point of reference in monastic life. Th e uncertain origin of th e Abbey’s name is th e first sign of its complex h istory. Valvisciola may derive from a simple naturalistic reference: vallis lusciniae, nigh tingale valley, or possibly valley of th e “visciole”, th e wild ch erries th at grow in th e area, at th e foot of Monte Corvino. Th e first founding monks were Greek Basilians of Saint Nilo in th e 8th century and later, in th e 13th century th e abbey was rebuilt by th e Cistercian Fath ers wh o definitively took over. According to tradition it was also an ancient Templar centre until th e suppression of th e order, in th e early 14th century. Th is th eory is confirmed by th e presence in th e rose window of th e ch urch of a small cross of th e order of th e Templars carved in th e left side of th e central oculus. Th e small cross was also found in th e ceilings of th e cloister (north wing) during th e restoration of 1956-1957. Th e presence in Valvisciolo of Knigh ts of th e Order of th e Temple, th e monastic-military order instituted by Hugo de Payns at th e beginning of 12th century to defend h oly places, would h ave doubtless been an exceptional event but explainable th rough th e famous connection between th e Knigh ts and Cistercian monasticism, as indicated clearly in th e final formula of th e Templar vow. Th e monks of th e Abbey of Carpineto Romano, originally called Valvisciolo, moved from th ere in th e 14th century to th e new monastery and brough t th e name with th em. Togeth er with th e Abbey of Fossanova, th e Abbey of Valvisciolo is a true jewel of goth icCistercian arch itecture, with th e simple facade, th e

Sermoneta: the Abbey of Valvisciolo.

portal, th e beautiful rose window with a 5mt diameter, and th e oculus. Th e Ch urch , simple in its interior too, h as th ree naves with pointed arch es and goth ic arch es in th e main one, and th e Ch oir with a rectangular plan creates a sense of intimacy in th ese distant places so full of h istory. Baroque paintings and frescoes are th e only decorative element. Th e Monastery building contains numerous beautiful rooms, such as th e Capitular Hall of th e 12th century, th e R efectory and th e elegant Cloister with a square plan and double lancet windows with small columns and elegant capitals.

the MONTI lepini, AUSONI and AURUNCI

Useful info MUSEO DELL’OPER A ALDINA R egional Park of th e Monti Aurunci Viale Glorioso, 04020 Campodimele (LT) Ph . +390771598114/30 www.parcoaurunci.org R egional Park of Monte Orlando Comune, Piazza XIX Maggio, 3 04024 Gaeta (LT) Ph . +390771743070 rivieradiulisse@parch ilazio.it Via Annunziata, 21 - 04024 Gaeta

C/o Comune Bassiano (LT) Ph . +390773355226

CAETANI CASTLE Via della Fortezza 04013 Sermoneta (LT) Ph . +390773633935 Guided visits: 10-11-12am; 2-3-4pm (winter) 3-4-5-7pm (summer) Closed Th ursdays and Ch ristmas h olidays.

ABBEY OF VALV ISCIOLO Via Badia, 14 04013 - Sermoneta (LT) Ph . +39077330013 Holy Mass: 9-12am - 3-4pm summer time / until sunset ABBEY OF FOSSANOVA 04015 Borgo di Fossanova Priverno (LT) - Ph . +390773939061 Visits: 7-12am / 3-6pm (winter) 7-12am / 4-7:30pm (summer) Saturdays and Sundays th rough out th e day

R egional Park of th e Gianola Via Appia, 260 04028 Scauri di Minturno (LT) Ph . +390771743070 Natural Monument Mola della Corte-Settecannelle-Capodacqua c/o Parco Monte Aurunci - Viale Glorioso 04020 Campodimele (LT) Ph . +390771598114/30 www.parch ilazio.it - www.parks.it

SANCTUARY OF THE MADONNA DELLA CIV ITA Itri (LT) - Ph . +390771727116 Visits: all day except 1-3pm

M ONU MEN TS the abbey of Fossanova Th e majestic abbey, declared national monument in 1874, was founded in th e vicinity of Priverno by Benedictine monk s in th e 11th century above th e ruins of a Roman villa. In 1134 th e Cistercian Fath ers arrived in th e area to reclaim its marsh es, and th e name seems to h ave originated from th e digging of a drainage ch annel, th e “fossa nova”. Th e abbey was rebuilt according to primitive Cistercian arch itecture of wh ich it is a well preserved example. Th e access portal h as a very effective Cosamtesque decoration and th e rose window h as 24 small double columns. Th e interior of th e Ch urch , consecrated in 1208, is in goth ic-Burgundian style: bare, luminous and beautiful. Th e Cloister h as a rectangular plan, th ree sides in Romanesque style and one Goth ic. Th e superb Capitular Hall is also goth ic, and was restructured around 1250. Th e guest quarters still preserve th e cell wh ere St. Th omas Aquinas died in 1274 during th e stop on h is journey to Lyons. Th e cell is today a ch apel with a lacunar ceiling.

C U R I OSI T I ES the madonna della Civita According to tradition th e h oly image of th e Madonna della Civita was painted by th e Apostle Luke and was fough t over th rough th e centuries by th e towns of Campodimele and Itri. Th e dispute was concluded by relinquish ment on both sides, th at still celebrate th e event with a meaningful ceremony known as th e “Embrace of th e Elders”, in wh ich two groups of seven elderly citizens partake in a broth erly embrace in front of th e Sanctuary of th e Madonna della Civita (Itri - 11 th century), wh ich h ouses th e sacred image. A curious fact is th e presence in th e Ch urch of th e Sanctuary of a red cement tile in th e marble floor on th e righ t of th e main altar. Th is “aesth etic” anomaly is originated by a strange ph enomenon: every time a substitution of th e red tile with a marble one was attempted, th e new one always broke. Th e people in ch arge at th e Sanctuary consequently decided to relocate th e red one as th ey were unable to explain th e unusual cracks.

Walking through time t r av e l j o u r n a l

Walking through time Text Alessia Petruzzelli, Nino Martino Graphics and cartographic drawings N. Pietravalle, S. Ranalli Translation Francesca Caruso Photos Archivio Regione Lazio, Simonetta Panzironi Park section Panda Photo Printed by Stilgrafica - Rome ÂŠ 2014 Regione Lazio www.visitlazio.com

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