Ramla Walk

Introduction

This circular walk starts and ends in Nadur. This walk will lead you from ‘Triq Duru’, to ‘Wied Bin©emma’ – a typical Gozitian valley where traditional agricultural methods may be observed.

The route then proceeds to the outskirts of Nadur, known as ‘Ta’ Venuta’. During this part of the walk, you will enjoy the breathtaking views of one of the most fertile valleys that can be found on this small island. Along this part of the walk you will also be able to closely observe the typical garigue habitat.

On arriving at Ramla Bay, you will discover a treasure in its own right, featuring remarkable ecological, geological, historical and archaeological highlights. The walk proceeds by means of an old and quiet road which will guide you around the base of ‘Nuffara ridge’. On the way back to Nadur, from ‘Ta’ X˙ajma’ road, you will come across the old watch tower, perched on an elevated part on the village plateau.

A route map found in the centre pages of this booklet, together with several stone plinths located along this route, will help you follow along. Sticking to the set route affords a fascinating cross-section of the Gozitan countryside, folklore and traditions.

Distance: Time:

10 kms 4 hours

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Panoramic views from Duru Street

The Walk walk starts from ‘Duru Street’ T his which is the first road on your

left-hand side, if you arrive at Nadur via ‘Ta’ X˙ajma Street’. Along this road, you can feast your eyes on the splendid, panoramic views of the villages of Xewkija, Xag˙ra, Ûebbu©, Victoria and The Citadel.

In winter, ‘Nuffara hill’ is covered with a variety of wild colourful flowers, with the Cape Sorrel being the most abundant.

From this high vantage point you cannot help but notice the unique, hilly, Gozitan landscape that sets it apart from the sister island of Malta.

This unique topography is the result of a succession of several land drifts caused by tectonic movements throughout the ages. These have led

to the formation of the Maltese archipelago and of the numerous rock faults present within them.

Continue along this road until you reach a street named ‘Trejqet Santa Luçija’. This narrow side street leads to ‘Ta’ Óida’ Street. ‘Ta’ Óida’ refers to the place where the Hobby Falcon nests and which has acquired its name due to the fact that this regal

Part of Ramla Bay

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Nadur’s village centre

bird used to raise its young in cracks in the cliff side nearby.

This area is the oldest part of the village of Nadur. People have lived here long before the village of Nadur was declared a parish in 1688.

This is evident through the presence of many old houses featuring old balconies and open-air staircases.

Further along the road you can enjoy some enchanting views of Ramla Bay, as well as of the valley leading to it. Note the terraced fields enclosed by rubble walls, typical of the Maltese and Gozitan countryside. These rubble walls serve many functions and are mainly used to prevent soil erosion as a result of wind and rain, as well as to mark the limits of the individual plots. Additionally, in recent years, it has been recognised that these walls have actually developed mini-ecosystems and have become the natural habitat to many species, including the lizard.

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Once you have reached the main road that leads to Ramla Bay, cross the road and walk to ‘Wied Bin©emma’ Street. This road offers unique spectacular views of a typically cultivated valley. From among the recently built houses to your left, you can catch a glimpse of the village centre of Nadur, dominated by the majestic baroque church.

Work on the church, designed by the Maltese architect Giuseppe Bonniçi, began on the 7th December 1760. In 1904 the aisle, dome and façade, designed by Prof. F.S. Sciortino, were added to the original building. The church is

A group of frogs enjoying the first morning sun

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A typical reed wind breaker

open everyday from 05.00 until 10.00 hrs and from 16.15 until 19.15 hrs.

From here you can see another smaller, privately owned church.

Rev. Joseph Vella originally had this church built and now his relatives pay for its maintenance. The foundation stone was laid on the 4th May 1902. The paintings on the dome, ceiling and altar piece are by Prof. Guiseppe Briffa.

Along the road, the built landscape gives way to views of the open countryside. This area is called ‘Wied Bin©emma’ and in winter a watercourse flows along the leftThe fragile flower of the Tassel Hyacinth

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An orchard of citrus trees

hand side of this road. It is almost impossible to miss is the Great Reed that typically grows near valley banks and along watercourses.

Local inhabitants use the dried cane of this plant for various purposes.

Rows of this cane are tied together to produce the familiar wind breakers that are used to shield the crops from the northern wind in winter. The reed curtains that can be seen covering the front doors and windows of Gozitan houses are also made of this reed which is cut and tied together with pieces of rope.

Virtually all year round, tadpoles of the Painted Frog, the only amphibian of the Maltese islands, 4

A very old olive tree at Wied BinŠemma

GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S

A typical rubble wall

can be seen swimming in this clear watercourse. Due to the area’s plentiful fresh water supply, many different fruit trees have been planted in the surrounding fields.

These orchards consist mainly of citrus, pomegranate and apple trees as well as vines.

The flower of the Field Bindweed

A wide variety of vegetables is grown in other fields.

Proceeding along this fertile area of undisturbed countryside, you will come accross a small olive grove.

The lichens (a successful alliance between a fungus and an alga) that

The common Blue Butterfly

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Ramla Bay

grow on the branches indicate that these trees are very old. The lichens found on these olive trees are very rare on the Maltese islands, and this valley is one of the few habitats where this species can be found.

From this point, San Blas, a secluded area in the village of Nadur, can be seen towering on the left hand side of the valley. You can also note quite a number of backyard gardens. If you continue walking along this road you will reach a small room, which houses a borehole. This borehole is operated by the Water Services Corporation, which manages the islands’ ground water sources. Similar boreholes are common along the valleys in Gozo, Comino and Malta.

Here the road ends in a T-junction, where you should take the road to your left. Walk uphill along this

The Roman Villa Remains of this villa were discovered in 1910 by some local farmers who were digging in the sand near the remains of the old battery. While they were digging they unearthed some pieces of fine marble. That evening these farmers went to the local wine shop and talked about what they had found. A school headmaster, Mr Farrugia, happened to be in the same shop and overheard the story and immediately phoned Sir Temi Zammit, who at the time was the Museums Director.

Sir Temi Zammit showed up at Ramla Bay the following morning. The excavations revealed the remains of a Roman villa complete with baths. The villa had about 19 rooms some of which were decorated with mosaic and marble; the villa was also found to be fitted with a heating and drainage system. The artefacts that were found are now preserved at the National Museum in Valletta. Following excavations and proper recording, the remains of this villa have once again been The area where the Roman Villa is buried buried under sand for the sake of protection.

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GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S

Batteries and Redoubts These batteries and redoubts were armed with the necessary weapons, usually between four to ten 12-pounder cannons, to prevent enemy forces from landing on the island. The military architects D’Arginy, Fontete and Bachelius devised the plan of these redoubts and presented it in the Report of January 10, 1715. These plans were further developed by the French military architect Vendsome.

road until you arrive at a point where the road forks into two. This time take the road to your right.

Remains of the Ramla Left Belancourt Battery

On arriving at Ramla Bay, the first thing that will probably capture

This part of the walk continues in open countryside. Once again the road leads to crossroads - take the road to your left (1), which proceeds to ‘Ramla Road’. While following the road downhill (2), you can spot an old field-house that has a traditional pigeonry in one of its rooms.

Passing by this field-house, you will arrive at the T-junction near the big vineyard which flanks the road.

Take the right turning and proceed to Ramla Bay. Here, a large parking area, telephone box and public toilets are available. Ramla boasts unique historical, geographical, and natural features waiting to be discovered.

The statue of the Madonna dates back to 1881

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Underwater Defences A complex series of fortifications were devised for Ramla Bay, including the building of an underwater entrenchment wall. The latter spans the whole bay and although invisible from the sea, is very effective in preventing vessels from reaching the beach. The wall is best seen from Calypso’s Cave, where you will be able to see a dark jagged line across the bay.

Fougasses Fougasses were excavated as close as possible to the shore with their axles pointing towards the most probable route that the enemy would take. The defenders would charge the fougasses with a barrel of gunpowder and then load them with rocks, keeping the largest rocks at the bottom.

Fougasses were meant to discharge a shower of stones that would cause a great deal of damage to the enemy galleys. If they missed however, the fougasses needed about one hour to be reloaded, but the Knight’s optimism was inexhaustible. This is shown by a quote from Boisgelin’s Ancient and Modern Malta, Appendix IV: ‘‘even if they miss their aim they inspire great terror, from the apprehension that a second attempt may be more successful. ”

The Underwater Wall

your attention, other than the beach itself, is a small slope located along the side of the parking area.

Here you can see the heavily eroded remains of an old building. These are the remains of the ‘Ramla Left Balincourt Battery’. In all there were three batteries located at Ramla Bay. The second battery is the ‘Ramla Vendsome Redoubt’, formerly located in the centre of Ramla Bay. However, in 1881 it was replaced by a votive statue of the Madonna. Behind this statue you can still see some stone slabs, which once formed part of this redoubt.

The third battery, the ‘Ramla Right Balincourt Battery’, was built in a cave on the cliffs of Nadur. The cave can still be seen from the bay. Some elderly people from Nadur maintain that a staircase used to connect this battery to the bay.

These batteries were built around Gozo between 1715 and 1716. The three batteries at Ramla Bay were also protected by an entrenchment wall, which was set up in the sea.

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The Fougasse

GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S form part of the defensive system and is known as a fougasse.

The sand dunes of Ramla Bay

The latter can still be seen from a high vantage point such as ‘Calypso’s Cave’ at Xag˙ra. These entrenchments were a form of irregularly shaped lines of defence built close to the shore facing the open sea. On the eastern side of Ramla Bay, lying on the edge of the seashore, is a large rock with a big circular hole in it. This hole used to

The most evident feature of Ramla bay is its red sand, which is the result of the natural erosion of the green sand rock - a thin layer of soft rock found on both sides of the bay.

Once the sand is formed, waves and currents help to keep the sand ashore.

During the winter months, a large amount of rainwater flows from the valley into the sea. This forms a pond of brackish water and Great Reeds grow by its banks. In summer, this pond does not dry out completely and the Killifish, an endemic brackish water fish, can be seen in it.

Ramla Bay as seen from the cave that formed part of the Ramla Right Balincourt Battery

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The sea holly

The sand dunes and their fragile ecosystems have become quite rare in the Maltese islands, as most other sandy beaches have suffered significant impacts owing to intensive development.

The sand dunes also provide the appropriate habitat for the numerous African Tamarisk trees.

These trees harbour a variety of birds and reptiles. Since their roots are firmly anchored in the sand, they reduce sand dune erosion considerably.

The main plants that grow in these sand dunes consist of the Sea Holly, Sea Daffodil, the Woolly Safflower, the Smooth-leaved Saltwort and 12

A fire bug resting on the flower of the bushy restharrow

GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S the Bushy Restharrow. All these plants have developed many adaptations that help them survive in these harsh, dry and highly saline conditions. Since the sand dunes are not static and their shape changes at a relatively fast rate, these plants have also managed to cope with surviving in a disturbed environment. They can even survive when they are buried under the sand.

The bushy restharrow’s flower in detail

The water catchment Dams

This habitat also harbours a variety of insect species. They live on plants or else are found burrowing in the sand. Many different spiders are

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found here but they are usually very well camouflaged and hard to spot.

On the shoreline, a whole new ecosystem exists. You may spot small worms called ‘swat’

burrowing in the wet sand near the sea. Additionally, several other organisms live in the Posidonia seaweed that is washed ashore.

As Ramla Bay is the most popular

The old road to Ramla as seen from high point

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The sea at Ramla Bay when windy

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The detail and the beauty of the tree mallow’s flower

bay in Gozo, a large number of people visit the site, particularly in summer.

On leaving the beach, retrace your steps back to the T-junction. This

time keep walking straight ahead, along the road to Xag˙ra. On the right-hand side of the road you can see the small water-catchment dams. These are used by neighbouring farmers to gather the

The Sea Medic

The Sea Daffodil

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The old road to Ramla Bay

rainwater. This is then used to irrigate their crops and fruit trees during the dry summer months.

Continue walking along this road until it starts going uphill. At this point turn into a narrow side-road to your left (3). This side road is called ‘Old Ramla road’, since it was the only road that led to Ramla from

Walking along the old road to Ramla

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the village of Xag˙ra. This road will take you around the base of ‘Nuffara Ridge’ which is situated right between the slopes of Nadur and Xag˙ra.

‘In-Nuffara’, which is now in a secluded and undisturbed part of this open countryside, must have been a very busy place during the prehistoric era.

Archaeological findings revealed six roundly cut holes with large bell-shaped recesses below. These probably served as tombs in the Tarxien period for the Ìgantija people (2400 - 2200 B.C.) and as silos or cisterns during the Bronze Age period (1450 300B.C.). Shards belonging to the Arab period were also found scattered around on this hill and these finds indicate that it was used as a settlement by Arabs.

Walking along this quiet and secluded road instils a deep sense of the beauty and serenity of the Gozitan countryside. A right turn leads into a side road that develops

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Ta’ Óamet Chapel

Ta’ Óamet Chapel

This chapel, known locally as Ta’ Óamet, is dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel. It was built

by Liberato Grech who was responsible for the uprising of the Gozitans against the French. On 12th June 1789, Napoleon took over the islands and the era of the Knights of Malta came to an end after 268 years of rule. The French troops who crossed over to Gozo were posted at Fort Chambrai and the Citadel.

The French imposed new laws that the locals did not accept as they went against Gozitan traditions and customs. The French repealed the authority of the church, severed all connections with Rome and only allowed each religious order to have one convent. To add insult to injury, most of the churches were ransacked.

By the 2nd September 1798, the Maltese started their revolt against the French.

News spread to the sister island of Gozo and the locals started to prepare themselves for battle. It was Archpriest Saverio Cassar together with some Gozitan leaders who organised the plot to overthrow the French. Liberato Grech, who was from Xag˙ra, was given command of a group of men from Xag˙ra and Xewkija, while a lawyer, Dr Giuseppe Grima was in command of a group from Ûebbu©. The French retreated into the fortifications. Fort Chambrai was conquered on the night between 16 and 17th September 1798 and the Citadel was taken a few days later.

As a gesture of thanksgiving for victory over the French, Liberato Grech built this chapel, which was then blessed by his son, Canon Salvatore Grech. A farmhouse with a stone plinth bearing a carving of the souls in purgatory is located across the road, in front of the chapel.

The altarpiece inside the chapel depicts Our Lady of Mount Carmel holding Baby Jesus in her lap. It was painted in 1883

by Tommaso Madiona. The importance of this painting lies in the fact that the artist included a view of the chapel with a typical Gozitan landscape as the background for the lower part of the painting.

To the left, is a painting of St Michael by Antonio Falzon, which was installed in 1844, while an old baroque painting of the Immaculate Conception hangs in the vestry.

Although the artist is still unknown, the picture is believed to be a replica of the alterpiece of the Cospicua Church in Malta.

Carving of Souls in Purgatory

Distant views of the Citadel

into a T-junction.

Taking the turning to the right and walking straight ahead (4), you will arrive at a main road. At this point you should turn left and pass by ‘Ta’ Óamet chapel’. The chapel has a classical façade with the twin bell towers being a later addition. The new chapel was built side-by-side the old chapel, which had become too small for its congregation.

Although the chapel is open daily, the front door of the old chapel is normally kept closed as service is usually held in the new chapel. The chapel may be accessed through the vestry to the right of the front door, or by crossing the car park on the right hand side of the chapel.

Leaving the chapel and walking straight on, you will arrive at a 18

The Wall Brown Butterfly

GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S roundabout. Take a left turn and walk along the ‘Ta’ X˙ajma’ road to the starting point of the walk.

As you walk uphill along ‘Ta’ X˙ajma’ road, note the signal tower that stands on a high ridge. This Signal tower is known as ‘Ta’ Kenuna’. It was built during the English rule in the middle of the nineteenth century. The tower was later used as a telegraph post.

Today the tower has been restored and is still being used for communication purposes, as the antennae set up on its roof indicate.

A closer look at the Red Flower of Sulla

After a long walk along ‘Ta’ X˙ajma’ road, you will reach the starting point of this fascinating walking tour.

Ta’ Kenuna Signal Tower

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The Green Valley of Ramla

Facts About The Route The route is suitable for pedestrians, horse rides and pedal bikes.

Most of the route is accessible to small vehicles servicing persons with disabilities.

Before setting out, check the local bus schedule to avoid being stranded.

Since most of the walk is in open countryside, check the local weather forecast and carry a raincoat when the weather is not stable.

After heavy downpours, allow a few hours to pass as crossing valleys might be unsafe.

The use of adequate hiking shoes is recommended. Tread carefully when route takes you over clay footpaths.

As most of the route is in the open countryside it is advisable to carry a packed lunch.

It is possible to buy food at Nadur.

Public convenience places are available at Ramla Bay and Nadur.

The following table depicts typical average weather conditions including temperature, hours of sunshine/ day, rainfall and sea temperatures. Walking conditions are most favourable during the months of January, February, May, November and December.

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Tips For The Road Walk only along the set route.

Fields are privately owned so please do not take any short cuts.

Do not climb over rubble walls, they are easily damaged.

Do not leave any litter. Dispose of all litter appropriately.

Respect the privacy of people living along the route.

Do not pick any flowers and plants, take only photographs.

Do not widen any trails by trampling.

Do not throw any stones or other objects into the valleys or freshwater bodies.

It is advisable to tackle the route in broad daylight allowing stops, for resting, viewing, photographing, etc.

Avoid walking or cycling close to the cliff edges. Beware of sudden guests of wind.

Bird trapping and hunting are practised in the countryside. There are, however, strict regulations determining areas where such activities are permitted and times of the year where no such activities are allowed.

Useful Telephone Numbers Emergency and rescue: Ambulance: Police Station: Telephone Enquiries: Ministry for Gozo: website: www.gozo.gov.mt Malta Tourism Authority: website: www.visitmalta.com Gozo Tourism Association: Nadur Local Council:

112 196 191 1182 21 56 14 82 22 91 50 00 21 56 51 71 21 55 80 80

A typical field house

Other Useful Information All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written consent of the copyright holder. Direct enquires are to be forwarded to the Malta Tourism Authority.

Feedback or comments are welcome.

Email: info@visitmalta.com

Date of Publication: March 2005 Text: Etienne Micallef Photos: Etienne Micallef Map: Andre Micallef Grimaund Produced by the: Malta Tourism Authority’s Product Planning and Development Directorate

Ramla Walk

While hiking along this route, you will explore several of Gozo’s natural, geological, historical and traditional features. However, particularly distinctive of this walk are the relaxing sounds of one of the most fertile valleys on the island. Here you will discover the unique colour of the red sand at Ramla and enjoy the panoramic views offered by the Gozitan countryside.

Walks in the series (issued to date) Ta’ Ìurdan Walk

Ba˙rija Walk

Passing through:

Passing through:

Da˙let Qorrot Walk

Girgenti Walk

Passing through:

Passing through:

Saltpan Walk

Marfa Ridge Walk

Passing through:

Passing through:

Ramla Bay Walk

Dwejra Lines Walk

Passing through:

Passing through:

G˙arb - Wied il-Miela˙ G˙asri Valley - Ta’ Ìurdan Ta’ Pinu

Nadur - Da˙let Qorrot Bay Ta’ Griegel Valley - Qala

Victoria - Sara Valley G˙asri - G˙asri Valley Reqqa Point - Xwejni

Nadur - Wied Bin©emma Ramla Bay - Ta’ Óamet

Ba˙rija - Ba˙rija Valley - Mtahleb Tal-Vigarju Cliffs - Fiddien Valley Rabat

Buskett - G˙ar il-kbir Girgenti Valley Si©©iewi - Il-Maqluba - Qrendi

G˙adira - L-A˙rax tal-Mellie˙a Armier - Marfa - Çirkewwa Ras il-Qammieh

M©arr - Bin©emma - Dwejra Lines Speranza Valley - Mosta

Gozo Countryside Walks is a partnership project of the: Ministry for Gozo, Ministry for Tourism and Culture, the Malta Tourism Authority and the Gozo Tourism Association The project was launched in 2002, the World Tourism Organisation’s International Year of Ecotourism.

Price Lm1.00