your
Issue 2 | 18 Mar ’10
guide
The Coast Road Walk Seher il-Punent What’s Cooking Gozo Visitor Information Property in Gozo
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AT ARKADIA Commercial Centre, Victoria - GOZO | Naxxar Road, BIRKIRKARA | The Point, SLIEMA
Editorial Welcome to Gozo Spring is here. You can enjoy a greener side of Gozo this time of the year. After consistent rain showers last weekend, we hope the weather will hold up this time around so we can enjoy a pleasant long weekend. Within this issue Marion Zammit is suggesting a nice afternoon walk on the Northern coast road starting from Marsalforn to the Ghasri Valley. While Claire Borg has put together some practical yet intriguing recipes for your weekend-break cooking. When going out consider visiting Gharb as the local council is organising their annual event ‘Seher il-Punent’. And as Easter is around the corner, there are a few Easter-related events going on in Victoria and Fontana.
At Arkadia we are busy as usual to provide the quality, choice, and value essential for our customers. We have just introduced a baby section in our home department and will soon introduce two kids brands to our fashion department – Tape À L’Oeil and Chicco.
kids fashion from newborn to 14
At Arkadia Foodstore we have just recently published our second issue of ‘the foodie’. Get your FREE copy when visiting us in Victoria. And at Circle-A we will be hosting Eddie Fenech Adami this Saturday morning to sign copies of his auto-biography ‘INSERVI’. Enough for now. A relaxing entertaining weekend to you all.
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OPENING SOON Arkadia, GOZO | Naxxar Road, BIRKIRKARA | Main Street, PAOLA
Table of Contents Feature:
8
These lanes are made for walking
Article by Marion Zammit | Photos by George Saguna
What’s On
14
Seher il-Punent | Cultural Events | Nightlife
What’s Cooking
20
Recipes and photos by Claire Borg
Gozo Visitor Information
Gozo Channel Timetable Useful Contact Numbers Pharmacy Open on Sunday
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Eating Out Gozo Mass Times
Property in Gozo your Produced by:
Arkadia Marketing Ltd. Fortunato Mizzi Street, Victoria, Gozo Tel: 2210 3000 | Fax: 2155 8331 E-mail: info@arkadia.com.mt Website: www.arkadia.com.mt
guide Advertising: Tel: 2210 3207 | Mob: 9942 1594 E-mail: gzammit@arkadia.com.mt
Feature As much as we may love to think of Gozo as a cosmopolitan and urban island, reality has been kinder than many buried desires would have it. Thankfully enough, ‘da rock’ as many like to call it, has been blessed through the bounty of nature, and although a smooth rhythmic pace of modern life has at times caught up with it, the strong and heavy arm of progress has often found it less easy to cross the channel towards Gozo.
These lanes are made for walking
Spring brings with it what is probably the most pleasant climate on these islands, not that we have had a winter this year! But these few weeks that lead the way before the temperatures start soaring, are practically ideal to put on those walking shoes and explore the off-beat lanes and tracks that wind from hills to valleys where traces of modern life are often lost and dispersed.
Walking shoes, pocket camera, fresh spring air and a desire to explore... they are mainly the ingredients to get to know another side of Gozo, starting from here...
Article by
Marion Zammit Photos by
In this first in a series, we’ll seek to explore one of the most kaleidoscopic coastal areas of tiny Gozo. Marsalforn is known to all those treading on the island as ‘the tourist area’, the densely populated summer resort sought after by tourists and locals alike. Yet, in these still dreamy months,
the once fishing village breathes an altogether different aura. Public transport, bus number 21 from the Victoria Bus Terminus, takes you immediately to the heart of Marsalforn. If you opt to go by car, you can easily park along the streets or in the main car park that’s virtually empty these times of year. Stretch your legs and make it to the waterline. My suggestion is to go towards Qbajjar, up from the main shoreline at Marsalforn bay, along the coast towards the Northeast. Qbajjar Promenade, though now in a good need of a redo, still offers an enjoyable space to stroll through, very close to the sea. The tiny beach along which the road twists is probably unpopulated at this time of year, although the thick seaweed that cushions it is regularly home to little family barbecues throughout summer. The recently asphalted road takes a slightly uphill turn. You can walk along the road or opt to move astray a few metres, still walking along the shoreline, and meet a few homey characters playing ‘bocci’ at the ‘bocci’ pitch. This is yet another slice of Gozitan life
George Saguna your Gozo guide - 9
that immediately catapults you to a sort of village life hardly existing any more in Malta or elsewhere. Either way, you’re bound to be back on the new dark tarmac, where the road leads towards Xwejni bay, a spectacle in its own right as the sun turns a denser red. The pebbly beach beneath the Qolla l-Bajda is a cozy setting for a sunset swim. Yet, scuba divers often use it, by day and night, as a springboard to launch their favourite sport as in this part of the island lie some of the most interesting natural rock formations underwater. A stroll along what was initially thought of ‘the coast road’ that thankfully never made it, will have you meet Leli Cini, the saltpan harvester, who – whenever the weather permits – is right there, pulling up sea water to fill his hundreds of saltpans, cleaning them or literally harvesting the
salt, by sweeping the rocky holes clean into bucketfuls of pure white crystallised ‘snow’. If you’re lucky enough and find Leli or his wife having a short break from their back-breaking daily routine, or
packing salt in their rock-cut room across the lane, a short chat with them will make you go home thinking you got to know another side to Gozo than you ever knew!
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Feature Back onto the cement-formed road and along the winding route, you will see the soft-looking honeycoloured rock formations beneath you giving way to more saltpans and the vertiginous heights to the open blue sea. Even this natural backdrop has not escaped the veil of legends Gozo is well known for, for the saltpans are linked to a centuries-old tale of a once watchmaker ... but more of that some other day. From here, on very clear days, the Sicilian coast is very visible to the naked eye. And your mobile phone network, for a few seconds, will probably give way to an Italian network or keep on searching for one. Don’t worry you haven’t arrived in Italy yet, but that’s how far we are to ‘Europe’ from this side of the island!
a silent tiny world where the only sounds are those of birds and the caressing waves lapping up the white pebbles on shore. The steep stone stairs leading down, and then back up, from road to the beach are well worth the try!
to be ruins of an earlier chapel. Although not intricately decorated as the Baroque churches we are used to, if open, the church is worth a tiny stop ‌ your legs will probably thank you ahead of your walk back.
If you’ve exercised enough for one day you may opt to go back to your car or the bus by taking the same route, but a few hundred metres of paces along the lane towards Ghasri will take you to a lovely little chapel, dedicated to ‘Il-Madonna tal-Patrocinju’. This tiny house of prayer was built in X PDF 1739, on what are understood
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But besides the saltpans and the silky-seeming rock, a few more minutes on foot will lead you away from the coast towards typical Gozitan countryside. We are slowly approaching the picturesque village of Ghasri. Half-way between the coast and the first signs of human habitation is the secretly treasured Wied l-Ghasri, an alcove fjord hidden to the undiscerning eye that reveals
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What’s On Seher il-Punent Gharb Main Square
Organised by the Gharb Local Council
Friday, 19th March 2010 6:30PM: Re-enactment of In Guardia 7:00PM: Tal-Qiegha folk Group presents a traditional meal of four dishes including glass of wine or other drinks. Includes Maltese folk music and entertainment by Tal-Qiegha Folk Group and Cini Band Admission: €12 Tickets available from Gharb Local Council. Call on 21560556 24hrs service or send email on gharb.lc@gov.mt.
Limited number of seats.
Saturday, 20th March 2010 7:00PM: Defilee’ by Ghaqda Dilettanti tal-Karnival Gibda tal-Habel (Tug of War) Competition Tilwima Talenti Competition* Animators – Stilt Walkers & Fire Jugglers
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What’s On Finalists of the Malta Song Festival Performance by Popular Maltese Band – Airport Impressions *Whoever wants to participate to the competition Tilwima Talenti is kindly requested to contact the Council on 21560556.
Sunday, 21st March 2010
Greenfields 7PM onwards • Family Evening program presented by Claudette Pace and J. Anvil with the participation of Olivia Lewis, Georgina, Jade Vella and Dominic Galea and Band • Competitions Final – Gbid ta’ Habel (Tug of War) and ‘Tilwima Talenti’ • Performance by Malta Song Festival Winner – Thea Garrett Children’s Corner with animators available during all days of the festival
Art & Crafts Exhibitions throughout the weekend • Exhibition by Hurbert Culture Studio • Aquarium Exhibition Cultural Walking Tours
CULTURAL ACTIVITIES Drama – “Il-Klassi” Comedy in Maltese written by Peter Paul Grech, produced by Kercem Drama Group and directed by George Mizzi. Cittadella Centre for Culture & Arts (Gozo Citadel) Friday 19th and Saturday 20th March 2010 at 7:30PM Admission: FREE
9AM onwards • Exhibition and tasting of typical products including Sicilian and local cheese, • Fruit and wine tables • Performance by Aurora Folk Group • Performance by Tal-Qiegha Folk Group • Live creation and exhibition of the Largest Gbejna ever done in the Maltese Islands • Motorcycles Exhibition 12PM onwards • Show by various dancing companies • Performance by the your Gozo guide - 15
and opening soon at Arkadia, Gozo
More Quality, More Choice, More Value
OPENING HOURS: Foodstore - MON-SAT: 8AM-7PM - SUN: 10AM -1PM OPENING HOURS
Circle-A - MON-FRI: 7:30AM -7PM - SAT: 8AM-7PM, SUN: 9AM-1PM, 4PM -7PM
Department Store - 8AM-7PM MON-SAT:- SUN: 9AM10AM -7PM-1PM - SUN: 10AM -1PM, Store 4PM -7PM Foodstore - MON-SAT: | Department - MON-SAT: 9AM -7PM - SUN: 10AM -1PM, 4PM -7PM | Circle-A -
MON-FRI: 7:30AM -7PM - SAT: 8AM-7PM, SUN: 9AM-1PM, 4PM -7PM
What’s On Book Signing by Eddie Fenech Adami
L-Imsallab Fi Triqatna
Night Life Friday, 19th March
Birthday Bash ZUMA Bar (Paradiso), Xlendi 10pm onwards
Saturday, 20th March
Live - Victor Chetcuti Former Prime Minister and President Emeritus Eddie Fenech Adami will be signing his auto-biography ‘INSERVI’. Circle-A, Arkadia Commercial Centre, Victoria Saturday, 20th March 2010 at 10:30AM
Re-enactment of the passion of Christ in the streets of Victoria. Starting from Saint Augustine Square. Saturday 20th March 2010 at 7.30PM
For Opera Lovers “Sweet Music”
“Hora Gloriae”
D-Venue, Xaghra 10pm onward
80’s-90’s Night KU Club, Victoria 10pm onwards
Sunday, 21st March
Live Jam Session by Keith and Christoph
Sacred Music Concert & Lenten Meditations by the Schola Cantorum Jubilate. Fontana Parish Church Saturday 20th March 2010 at 7:00PM Admission: FREE
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Screening of Puccini’s opera “Gianni Schicchi” preceeded by a short introduction and synopsis. Tea, coffee & biscuits will be served. Cittadella Centre for Culture & Arts (Gozo Citadel) Sunday 21st March 2010 at 4:00PM Admission: €2.50
Live Room 2nd Floor, Zeppi’s Pub, Qala 6pm onwards
Arkadia, GOZO Naxxar Road, BIRKIRKARA
What’s Cooking
What’s Cooking
Widow Soup Serves 6 • • • • • • •
1 Large Cauliflower 2 Medium Onions 2 Carrots 7 medium Potatoes 1 Cup of fresh shelled peas 1 Gidra ‘Kolrabi’ 6 Gbejniet ‘ Local Fresh Sheep Cheeslets’ 3.5 Ltrs of Water 2 Tbsp Kunserva ‘Tomato Paste’ Oil for cooking / Sea Salt / Black Pepper 6 Eggs - Optional 175 Grams of Ditali Corti (short pasta tubes)
Check the cauliflower and when done, remove from soup, placing in a large serving plate on the side. When the potatoes are done, also remove them from the soup, then remove the gbejniet. Break the eggs into the soup, like when poaching them, being careful and not stirring, and cook them for about 5/6 min. Remove from soup and set aside with the other vegetables. Add the pasta, and cook according to pack instructions 8/10 min.
Cook the onion gently in oil until its soft. Add the carrots, kolrabi and 1 of the potatoes, all diced small. Cook together on a gentle flame for about 5 min. Split the cauliflower in half. Chop one of the halves finely and add to the cooking vegetables. Cook for another 5 min, then add the Kunserva, season and continue cooking for another 5 min. Bring the water to a boil and add to the vegetables and simmer partially covered for about 30 min. Cut in halves the 6
Serve the soup, followed by a selection of the cooked vegetables and a poached egg. The Gbejniet can be served with the soup or with the vegetables, as one prefers. As a must, the vegetables should be drizzled with olive oil and seasoned with freshly ground pepper and flakes of sea salt. Salted tuna or canned tuna, olives and fresh crusty bread spread with ‘Kunserva’ (tomato paste) are often served accompanying this second plate.
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Some easy cooking suggestions while staying over on Gozo.
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Recipes & photos by
Claire Borg Ingredients from
Widow Soup
remaining potatoes, and the cauliflower into florets and add to the soup. Add also the Gbejniet.
your Gozo guide - 21
What’s Cooking • 1 tbsp sesame seed oil • 3 Tbsp Sweet Chilli sauce • ½ a small cucumber – peeled, deseeded and finely sliced • 3 Spring onions – peeled and finely sliced • 1 small can bean sprouts – drained • sea salt to taste • 2 tsp Chilly flakes - Optional
Chicken Noodle Satay
Chicken Noodle Satay • 200 Grams Rice Noodles • 200 Grams Chicken Breast • 5 Tbsp Crunchy Peanut Butter • 5 tbsp dark soya sauce • 1 can Coconut Milk • 1 Tbsp fresh Mint – roughly chopped • 2 Tbsp fresh Coriander – roughly chopped • 1 Tbsp fresh Parsley – finely chopped • 1 small red pepper – washed, seeds removed and finely chopped 22 - your Gozo guide
In a pot, bring to the boil the coconut milk and 300 ml of water. Add the chicken breast and boil until cooked (about 15 minutes). Drain and cool. If you have leftover roast chicken you can use that instead. Slice thinly. In a large pot bring to the boil about 2.5 liters of salted water and cook the rice noodles according to the pack instructions. Rinse with cold water, drain and set aside. Mix the soya sauce, sesame seed oil, sweet chilly and peanut butter together until evenly combined. Mix into the well drained noodles. Add the chopped vegetables and the fresh herbs and mix evenly. Add the chicken, season and serve.
Exotic Fruit Salad • 1 Papaya – Peeled and seeds removed • ½ a Pineapple – Peeled and centre piece removed • Tinned Lychees – drained • 1 Mango – Peeled and stone removed • 1 Banana – Peeled • small bunch Black Grapes – Washed • I punnet Physalis - Washed • 1 Pink Grapefruit – Segmented • 4 Passion Fruits – Cut open and fruit scooped out Wash, peel, chop and arrange fruit accordingly. Mix together in a large bowl and serve chilled.
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Exotic Fruit Salad
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Arkadia, GOZO | Republic Street, VALLETTA The Plaza, SLIEMA | Main Street, PAOLA
A BOTTLE OF WINE 7HETHER IT S AN EARLY
TO CHARM ALL 3ET IN A MEDIEVAL CELLAR WITH TYPICAL ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OUR MENU IS A SATISFYING MIX OF THE BEST LOCAL DELICACIES PIZZA PASTA FAMILY OR FRIENDS WE INVITE YOU TO COME OVER FROM EARLY MORNING GRILLS AND SALADS /PEN FOR DINNER FROM 4UESDAY TO 3UNDAY FROM Gozitan cuisine with great care. Our TILL LATE IN THE EVENING EVERY DAY %ARLY BOOKING RECOMMENDED PM ONWARDS 2ESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED ON 3ATURDAY menu offers a wide selection of antipasti,
BREAKFAST A BUSINESS LUNCH A ROMANTIC DINNER OR AN OCCASION FOR Eating Out
Xlendi
Mgarr
soups, pasta, meat dishes, fresh fish, also lobsters, oysters, cozze, and vongole fresh Martin Garces Street, Yacht Marina, from our aquarium, all at reasonable T: 2156 3317 | M: 9944 4999 price. Our extensive wine 6ICTORY 3QUARE 8AGHRA list includes Ta’ E: portovecchiogozo@gmail.com Mena Wines produced in 4EL Gozo using our W: www.portovecchiorestaurant.com grape varieties grown exclusively on the 6ICTORY 3QUARE 8AGHRA island. Il-Kartell is beautifully placed on 4EL -OB the picturesque left corner of Marsalforn E MAIL DVENUE ONVOL NET Bay on the water’s edge, with an indoor 3ET IN THE HEART OF 8AGHRA IS THE option making it an ideal winter retreat.
Churchill Bar, Pizzeria & Restaurant /LEANDER 2ESTAURANT
PORTO VECCHIO RESTAURANT
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Triq ix-Xatt, T: 2155 6614 | M: 9944 1880 E: rosiegrech@yahoo.com /LEANDER 2ESTAURANT IS SITUATED IN 8AGHRA S MAIN SQUARE ONE OF THE LIVELIEST VILLAGE CENTRES &AMILY RUN AND WITH A YOUNG NEW $VENUE "AR 2ESTAURANT FRIENDLY STAFF THE RESTAURANT IS Open Daily for Lunch and Dinner. WITH ITS UNIQUE DINING AMBIENCE HOUSED IN A TYPICAL YEAR #HOOSE TO DINE INDOORS OR AL OLD 'OZITAN STONE BUILDING Our establishment is conveniently situated Our restaurant specializes in Italian and FRESCO ON THE BEAUTIFUL TERRACES /LEANDER SPECIALISES IN LOCAL at the water edge of Xlendi Bay. Situated Mediterranean cuisine. One can admire OVERLOOKING THE VILLAGE SQUARE /R AND -EDITERRANEAN DISHES LIKE lSH SOUP ALJOTA HOMEMADE on the left side of the bay, we serve a wide the stunning views of the Mgarr Harbour ELSE JUST ENJOY A RELAXING DRINK IN THE BAR AREA WITH AN IMPRESSIVE range of delicacies from traditional Maltese and the Yacht Marina, whilst our chef and Maldonado Bistro RAVIOLI SPAGHETTI WITH RABBIT SAUCE FRIED RABBIT LOCAL ROASTED LAMB food, to pizza, to fresh fish. We specialise his team make sure that you enjoy their 17 Mons Luigi Vella Street, WINE LIST OR CHILL OUT WITH A COCKTAIL 7HATEVER YOU CHOOSE YOU BONELESS QUAILS AND LOTS MORE !LONG WITH GREAT FOOD ONE CAN in serving traditional Maltese food such as unique creations. T: 2701 9270 M: 9901 9270 WILL SURELY HAVE AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE IN THE FANTASTIC CHOOSE A BOTTLE OF WINE FROM THE TEMPERATURE CONTROLLED WINE CELLAR rabbit and beef olives (bragjoli). We are E: info@maldonado.com.mt ATMOSPHERE OF THE $VENUE "AR 2ESTAURANT WHICH IS UNDER /LEANDER IS A POPULAR VENUE WITH 'OZITANS -ALTESE AND TOURISTS reasonably priced as we cater for groups of Open Daily for Lunch and Dinner. THE SAME MANAGEMENT AS /LEANDER 2ESTAURANT IN 8AGHRA friends and families. Enjoy Xlendi Bay while Closed on Wednesdays. WHO ARE VISITING THE HISTORIC VILLAGE OF 8AGHRA %VERYONE RECEIVES eating out at Churchill. A WARM WELCOME AT THE /LEANDER /PEN FOR LUNCH AND DINNER /PENING (OURS 4UESDAY TO 3UNDAY Open Daily for Lunch and Dinner.
$VENUE "AR 2ESTAURANT
Victoria
)L +ARTELL 2ESTAURANT Marsalforn
-ARINA 3TREET -ARSALFORN "AY -ARSALFORN IL-KARTELL RESTAURANT 4EL -OB Marina Street, Marsalforn Bay, E MAIL ILKARTELLRESTAURANT ONVOL NET OR Our bistro is the sort of place /FF -ARSALFORN 2OAD BETWEEN 6ICTORIA AND -ARSALFORN only locals T: 2755 6918 | M: 7900 1965 CONNECTION MELITA COM 4EL &AX know about but with the food and ambiance E: il-kartellrestaurant@onvol.net to charm all. Our menu is aWWW TAFRENCRESTAURANT COM satisfying mix of WWW IL KARTELLRESTAURANT COM W: www.il-kartellrestaurant.com the best local delicacies, pizza, pasta, and 3INCE )L +ARTELL RESTAURANT !CKNOWLEDGED AS SUCH BY ITS grills. Traditional ‘Fenkata’ and ‘Majjalata’ LOCATED ON THE ISLE OF 'OZO HAS FAITHFUL CLIENTELE AND BY THE nights served on request. Our bistro is BECOME THE VENUE WHERE FRIENDS INTERNATIONAL PRESS 4A &RENC situated in the street which links you from Kercem up to Sabina Square which leads MEET TO ENJOY lNE FOOD AND WINE 2ESTAURANT HAS BEEN THE you to the centre of Victoria. IN AN AMBIENCE OF WELLBEING 4HE SETTING FOR THE lNEST DINING CHEFS TREAT OUR -EDITERRANEAN EXPERIENCE IN THE -ALTESE Open for Dinner from Tuesday to Since 1973 Il-Kartell restaurant, locaed AND 'OZITAN CUISINE WITH GREAT CARE /UR MENU OFFERS A WIDE ISLANDS FOR OVER YEARS !N Sunday. Open for Lunch on Saturday on the isle of Goz, has become the venue and Sunday. SELECTION OF ANTIPASTI SOUPS PASTA MEAT DISHES FRESH lSH ALSO APPRECIATION OF LOCAL CULINARY TRADITIONS AS WELL AS THE CONTEMPORARY where friends meet to enjoy fine food and wine in an ambience of well being. LOBSTERS OYSTERS COZZE AND VONGOLE FRESH FROM OUR AQUARIUM ALL KITCHEN ENABLES AWARD WINNING CHEF -ARIO 3CHEMBRI TO PRODUCE FOOD The chefs treat our Mediterranean and AT A REASONABLE PRICE /UR EXTENSIVE WINE LIST INCLUDES 4A -ENA WHICH SATISlES THE MOST DISCERNING DINER 4HE Ë LA CARTE MENU AND 7INES PRODUCED IN 'OZO USING GRAPE VARIETIES GROWN EXCLUSIVELY CHEF S TASTING MENU IS SUPPLEMENTED BY A DAILY MARKET MENU FEATURING 26 - your Gozo guide ON THE ISLAND )L +ARTELL IS BEAUTIFULLY PLACED ON THE PICTURESQUE SEASONAL PRODUCE FROM 'OZO FARMERS AND lSHERMEN 4A &RENC CAN ALSO
4A &RENC 2ESTAURANT
Useful Contact Numbers Police: 2156 2040 Emergency Line: 112 Gozo General Hospital: 2156 1600 Tourist Office: 2155 0254 Gozo Channel Co. Ltd: 2210 9000
Pharmacies open this Sunday: Palm Pharmacy Palm Street, Victoria Tel: 2156 6170 Tony’s Pharmacy Qbajjar Road, Marsalforn Tel: 2156 3617
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your Gozo guide - 29