Welcome to Rijeka 03-2011 by Turistička zajednica grada Rijeke / Rijeka Tourist Board

WELCOME TO

RIJEKA Broj

Issue 3

ˇ anj SijeC

January 2011

Godina

Zvončari//Bell Bellringers Ringers vončari

Najbučnije nematerijalno jbučnije nematerijalno dobro s UNESCO-ve liste he Noisiest Intangible The Intangible oodNoisiest on UNESCO’s list Goods oodon onUNESCO’s UNESCO’slist list I Intervju ntervju/ Interview / Interview

ade RadeŠerbedžija Šerbedžija Boćanje / Playing Bocce ntervju / Interview

mornara koja I Igra ornara koja je zje zaludila mediteran ludila mediteran Asailors' sailors'game gamethat that has ffascinated scinatedthe theMediterranean Mediterranean

Year 2

Nije za prodaju / Not for sale

6. 8. 18. 24.

IMPRESSUM NAKLADNIK / PUBLISHER Hand Press d.o.o. J.Trdine 2, 51 000 Rijeka e-mail: info@handpress.hr

UREDNIČKI KOLEGIJ / EDITORIAL BOARD Petar Škarpa, Ermina Duraj, Lea Stoiljković Medved, Ljiljana Mamić Pandža, Velid Đekić, Igor Rivetti, Sandra Ivanišević

GRAFIČKO OBLIKOVANJE / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marijan Baćac

NOVINARI / JOURNALISTS

Andrea Bralić Marić, Sandi Bujan Cvečić, Velid Đekić, Ljiljana Mamić Pandža, Ingrid Šestan Kučić, Lidija Šušak, Larry Ambrozich, Josipa Šimić, Silvia Vidović

FOTOGRAFIJE / PHOTOGRAPHS

Rino Gropuzzo, Nick Turina, Davor Žunić, Ivo Matulić, Ante Škrobonja, Branko Kukurin, Mladen Urem i Vinko Antić

MARKETING

Hand Press d.o.o. e-mail: sandra@handpress.hr

PRIJEVODI / TRANSLATION Prolingua-Ri d.o.o.

NAKLADA / EDITION 4000 kom

ISSN 1847-5019

Izlazi dva puta godišnje published twice a year

Časopis je realiziran u suradnji sa Turističkom zajednicom grada Rijeke This magazine was launched in collaboration with the Rijeka Tourist Board

Zvončari - Najbučnije nematerijalno dobro s Unesco-ve liste Bell Ringers - the Noisiest Intangible Goods on Unesco's list

Intervju / Interview Rade Šerbedžija

Novi grad / New City Riječki karneval - Maska skrojena prema gradu, grad skrojen prema maski The Rijeka Carnival - A mask tailored to the shape of the city, a city tailored to the shape of the mask Znanstveno-tehnologijski park - Sinergija znanosti i poduzetništva The Science and Technology Park - Synergy of science and free enterprise

32.

"Mala galerija" riječke obitelji Bruketa - Ambasador kulture diljem svijeta The Bruketa Family from Rijeka’s "Mala Galerija" Gallery, an Ambassador for culture throughout the world

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Riječke knjižare - Knjigama je u Rijeci ugodno Bookstores in Rijeka - Books feel comfortable in Rijeka

40.

Glagoljaški korijeni grada Glagolitic city origins

43.

Prosinac u Rijeci ili kako se grad pretvara u najljepšu bajku December in Rijeka or how the city becomes the most beautiful fairy tale

46.

Atletska dvorana u Rijeci - Najmodernija atletska dvorana u Hrvatskoj The Rijeka Athletics Hall - The most modern athletics hall in Croatia

48.

Vaterpolo - Riječani žive vaterpolo Water-polo - Rijeka inhabitants live for water-polo

50.

Boćanje - Igra mornara koja je zaludila Mediteran Bocce - A sailors' game that has fascinated the Mediterranean

55.

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - Events

64. 68.

Grafički zavod Hrvatske d.o.o. Radnička cesta 210 10000 Zagreb HP d.d.

Tema broja / This edition theme

30.

TISAK / PRINTED BY

DISTRIBUCIJA / DISTRIBUTION

Uvodnik / Editorial

70. 75.

Izložba / Exhibition Vlado Kristl - prešućivani genij i ekscentrik Vlado Kristl - an unrevealed genius and eccentric

Tako je nekada bilo / This is how it once was Pojas za spašavanje s Titanika - Nijemi svjedok najpoznatije katastrofe 20. stoljeća Life belt from Titanic - A silent witness to the most famous catastrophe of 20th century

Zoom Ante Škrobonja

Slasni kutak / Tasty corner Grobnička polenta kompirica - Težačko jelo za blagdanski stol Grobnik palenta with potatoes - A farmer's meal for the Holiday Table

78.

Restoran Municipium Municipium restaurant

80.

Sabrage Pub na Trsatu Sabrage Pub on Trsat

82.

Press clipping - Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us

18.

24.

32.

36.

40.

46.

50.

64.

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Editorial

We love Rijeka! It sounds like the beginning of a supporter’s song, but it is actually our everyday life. Just by loving everything that makes this city and its inhabitants, we can create a magazine that tells the stories of Rijeka. By creating the “Welcome to Rijeka” magazine, we always have numerous themes that we would like to share with you and for this third edition, let us take you on a bell ringers' tour around the Rijeka surroundings, the very tour that the bell ringers take every year during the carnival period. We have tried to evoke the carnival spirit in the same way it is experienced by the people from the Croatian Littoral. We invite you to the walk along Rijeka’s streets in search of a good book. We will take you into the museums to see a life-jacket from the Titanic or fragments of Glagolitic alphabet texts, found in a glossary of Rijeka’s monasteries. We will bring you the story about bocce bowls, the favourite pastime of Rijeka’s inhabitants. So together let’s head to Rijeka! Editorial board

Uvodnik

Mi volimo Rijeku. Zvuči kao početak navijačke pjesme, a zapravo je naša svakodnevnica. Samo uz ljubav prema svemu što čini ovaj grad i njegove ljude možemo stvarati časopis koji priča riječke priče. Stvarajući "Welcome to Rijeka" uvijek imamo pregršt tema koje želimo podijeliti sa vama, pa nam tako dozvolite da vas u ovom, trećem broju, povedemo na zvončarski ophod okolicom Rijeke, putem kojim zvončari kreću svake godine u karnevalsko vrijeme. Karneval smo vam pokušali dočarati onako kako ga doživljavaju Primorci. Pozivamo vas na šetnju riječkim ulicama u potrazi za dobrom knjigom. U muzeje vas vodimo da pogledate pojas za spasavanje s Titanika ili fragmente glagoljaških tekstova pronađene u riznicama riječkih samostana. Imamo i priču o boćanju, omiljenoj zabavi Riječana. Krenimo još jednom zajedno u Rijeku! Urednički kolegij

Tema broja / This edition theme

Piše / Written by: Slavica Mrkić Modrić Fotografije / Photos: Branko Kukurin

Zvončarska zvona u Primorju istim intenzitetom zvone već stoljećima The bell ringers’ bells have been ringing in the Croatian Littoral with the same strength for centuries

Zvončari

najbučnije nematerijalno dobro s UNESCO-ve liste Bell Ringers - the noisiest intangible goods on UNESCO’s list

Dok je zvonaca bit će i zvončara i zvončarskih ophoda, iako zvončar ne može biti svatko. To je prije svega velika čast, iziskuje veliku snagu, volju i odricanje, a u nekim zvončarskim skupinama podrazumijeva i korijene. Tradicija se prenosi s koljena na koljeno, pa je u zvončarskim ophodima zvonilo i po nekoliko generacija, šećući istim šumama, istim putevima i stazicama, livadama i proplancima. Iste su ih obitelji generacijama dočekivale, iste su se pjesme pjevale i svirale, s istim jelima i pićima su se gostili. Zvuk zvona, u Munama i Žejanama na blagdan sv. Tri kralja, a zvuk roga u ostatku nekadašnjeg kastavskog komuna na blagdan sv. Antona, označavaju početak Mesopusta i vladavinu maškara, feštara, partenjaka i njihove visosti – zvončara. Stoljećima bez titule, a od siječnja 2010. godine s titulom jednog od čak deset hrvatskih nematerijalnih kulturnih dobara koje je UNESCO uvrstio na svoju listu, zvončari su posebnost karnevalskoga svijeta ne samo Hrvatskoga primorja, već i cijele Lijepe naše. Na području Primorsko – goranske županije djeluje petnaestak zvončarskih skupina, među kojima su najpoznatiji Halubajski zvončari ili zvončari Viškova i Marčelja, slijede zvončari matuljskoga kraja – Brežanski, Brgujski, Mučićevi, Munjski, Rukavački, Zvonećanski, Žejanski, Frlanski i zvončari područja Korensko – Vlahov breg. Na Grobnišćini su aktivni Dondolaši, a na istoku riječkoga prigrada najmlađa skupina “pod zvonom„ - Kukuljanski zvončari. Jedini gradski ili riječki zvončari su Zametski zvončari. Postoje razlike u odijevanju, u koraku, u ophodu, u kolu, u As long as there are bells, there will be bell ringers as well as bell ringers processions, although not everyone can become a bell ringer. It is above all a great honour that asks for remarkable strength, will and renunciation and in some bell ringers groups it means origins too. The tradition is passed down from generation to generation so that in some bell ringers processions, several generations might be ringing together walking through the same forests, down the same roads and paths, meadows and lawns. The same families have been welcoming them for generations and the same songs have been sung and played, and the same dishes and beverages have been eaten and drunk. The sound of the bell in Mune and Žejane, on the Christian feast day of Epiphany and the sound of the horn in other parts of the old Municipality of Kastav on the St. Anthony holiday mark the start of the carnival period and the rule of masks, a feast and party people and their highnesses – the bell ringers. Bell ringers, who have been without a title for centuries and who in January 2010 received the title of one of ten intangible cultural goods in Croatia to be included in the UNESCO World Heritage list and which, are a particularity of the carnival world, not only in the Croatian Littoral but in the entire country as well. There are around fifteen bell ringers groups who perform in the area of the County of Primorje and Gorski kotar of which the most famous are the Halubje Bell ringers or the bell ringers from Viškovo and Marčelji, followed by the bell ringers from the area of Matulji – from the villages of Bregi, Brgud, Mučići, Mune,

Rukavac, Zvoneće, Žejane, Frlanija together with bell ringers from the area of Korensko – Vlahov breg. In the area of Grobnik act Dondolaši, and on the eastern part of Rijeka’s suburbs we can find the youngest group “under the bell” known as the Kukuljanovo Bell ringers. The only bell ringers from the city of Rijeka are the Zamet Bell ringers. They differ with their costumes, with the way they walk in procession, round dance, number and the dimensions of their bells, masks as well as a few other details. However, the thing they all have in common is the bell ringing.

With Noise against the Evil Legends tell us why bell ringers ring and what their origins are. Whatever legend we believe or perhaps connect to, depend entirely on ourselves. The first legend connects the bell ringers’ tradition to the awaking of nature, when the shepherds went into the mountains with their herds and put on sheep skins and bells with the purpose of chasing away evil forces from their herds with their scary looks and their ringing. They believed that the noise they produced chased away the evil spells. Over the years, bells have become the symbol of luck and good. The legend that connects the appearance of bell ringers with the Grobnik field is a legend about defending these areas from the Ottoman raids. This legend tells us that shepherds, without knowing how to oppose such a powerful enemy, used tricks putting on sheep skins and wearing bells around their waists with bloody animal skins on their heads and with their masks, broju i veličini zvonaca, u maski i još ponekim detaljima, no ono što je svima njima zajedničko jest zvonjava.

Bukom protiv zla A zašto zvončari zvone i kako su nastali kazat će nam legende. Za koju ćemo se opredijeliti ili ih možda spojiti, ovisi o nama samima. Prva legenda zvončarsku tradiciju vezuje uz buđenje prirode kad bi pastiri sa stadima kretali u planine te navlačili ovčje kože, a oko struka vješali zvonca. Sve to s ciljem da zastrašujućim izgledom i zvonjavom potjeraju zle sile od svojih stada. Vjerovali su da buka koju stvaraju zvona tjeraju uroke. Tijekom godina zvono je postalo simbolom sreće i dobra. Legenda koja pojavu zvončara vezuje uz Grobničko polje, legenda je o obrani ovih krajeva od Turaka. Ta pak kaže da su, ne znajući kako se oduprijeti moćnom neprijatelju, pastiri posegnuli za lukavstvom pa se ogrnuli ovčjim kožama i opasali zvonima, na glave stavili krvave životinjske kože i tako zamaskirani dočekali neprijatelje. Brojčanu nemoć prikrili su tako što su od stabla kukurozovine radili ljudski lik, pa je neprijatelju izgledalo kako ima posla s brojčano jakom vojskom. Strašnim vizualnim i zvučnim efektom, legenda kaže, uspjeli su pobijediti i otjerati znatno jačeg neprijatelja. Zvončari bivšeg kastavskog komuna su sve do Rapalskog sporazuma izgledali isto – životinjska maska koja pokriva glavu, kožuh, zvonca, a u ruci bačuka. Kad je Rapalskim sporazumom zapadni dio Kastavštine pripao Kraljevini Italiji, rukavački zvončari, kao i oni iz Zvoneća, Bregi, Mučići, Vlahova Brega, Korenskog itd. dobili su zabranu nošenja

Prva legenda zvončarsku tradiciju vezuje uz buđenje prirode kad bi pastiri sa stadima kretali u planine te navlačili ovčje kože, a oko struka vješali zvonca. Sve to s ciljem da zastrašujućim izgledom i zvonjavom potjeraju zle sile od svojih stada The first legend connects the bell ringers’ tradition to the awaking of nature, when the shepherds went into the mountains with their herds and put on sheep skins and bells with the purpose of chasing away evil forces from their herds with their scary looks and their ringing zoomorfnih maski te su počeli nositi tzv. krabujosnice šešire s cvijećem od krep papira. Istočni dio nekadašnjega kastavskog komuna ostao je unutar granica Kraljevine Jugoslavije, što je pridonijelo da se njihov izgled do današnjih dana nije bitnije promijenio.

Zvončar, Tat, Medved, Vrag Iako zvončarske skupine imaju puno sličnosti, ni razlike im nisu male. Kako je nekad živjela, kako se odijevala i koje je metamorfoze do današnjih dana pretrpjela zvončarska skupina s Halubja ili Halubajski zvončari, najbrojnija zvončarska udruga našega kraja, bit će primjer iz kojeg se može iščitati sudbina i ostalih zvončara.

waited for their enemies to arrive. They hid their numeric disability by making human characters out of maize stalks so that the enemy thought he was dealing with a numerically powerful army. According to the legend, they managed to win and chase away a significantly stronger enemy with their scary visual and sound effects. The bell ringers from the old Municipality of Kastav looked the same up until the Treaty of Rapallo – animal mask covering the head, sheepskin coats, and bells and in their hands a bačuka. When the western part of the Kastav area became part of the Kingdom of Italy by the Treaty of Rapallo, the Rukavac Bell ringers as well as those from Zvoneće, Bregi, Mučići, Vlahov Breg, Korensko were forbidden from wearing animal masks and began wearing the so called, krabujosnice, hats with flowers made of crepe paper. The eastern part of the old Municipality of Kastav remained within the borders of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and this contributed to the fact that their appearance did not change significantly until today.

Bell ringer, Thief, Bear, Devil Even though bell ringer groups have many similarities, their differences are not insignificant either. How they once lived, how they dressed and through which metamorphosis they passed up until the present day, the bell ringers group from Halubje or the Halubje Bell ringers, are the most numerous bell ringers association in our area, and will be the example from which the destiny of the other bell ringers can be read as well.

ETNOLOGINJA LIDIJA NIKOČEVIĆ O ZVONČARIMA NEKADAŠNJEG KASTAVSKOG KOMUNA

UNESCO-va poruka - jako cijenimo vašu tradiciju Etnologinju Lidiju Nikočević, ravnateljicu Etnografskoga muzeja Istre i članicu Povjerenstva za nematerijalnu kulturnu baštinu Republike Hrvatske, odmah po dobivanju UNESCO-vog prestižnog priznanja upitali smo što za Hrvatsku, a što za zvončare i ostale koji su se našli na UNESCO-voj listi kulturne nematerijalne baštine znači to priznanje, pogotovo što ono znači u praksi. – Hrvatska može biti vrlo zadovoljna s količinom kulturnih dobara na UNESCO-voj reprezentativnoj listi. UNESCO-vo rješenje ne donosi Djeda Mraza s poklonima, već poruku – jako cijenimo vašu tradiciju, doista je jedinstvena i vrijedna u svjetskim okvirima i ukoliko smislite dobre načine za očuvanje i popularizaciju iste, mnoga vam vrata mogu biti otvorena. Praktična vrijednost ovoga postignuća, dakle, ovisi prvenstveno o nastojanju lokalnih zajednica i trudu djelatnika u oblasti kulture, prosvjete i turizma. Već postoje određene aktivnosti i projekti u Rukavcu, Matuljima, Viškovu i uzimajući ih u obzir u tekstu nominacije predložila sam daljnje mjere zaštite i niz programa za očuvanje i popularizaciju ovog običaja (sakupljanje dokumentacije, putujuća izložba, popularne publikacije i internetska stranica,

znanstvena istraživanja, osnivanje Centra za dokumentaciju i posjetitelje, programi i radionice za posjetitelje, radionice za djecu i drugo). UNESCO-va je ocjenjivačka komisija pozitivno ocijenila taj program, no sada se postavlja pitanje tko će pokazati interes da ga implementira. Kao ravnateljica ustanove u susjednoj, istarskoj županiji to ne mogu biti (samo) ja. Predlože li se dobri projekti ministarstvima u Hrvatskoj i Europskim fondovima, svakako postoji velika mogućnost dobivanja financijske pomoći. Pretpostavka za to je sudjelovanje lokalnih zajednica i, često, suradnja više zajednica. Upravo to može biti problem, jer zajednice koje imaju svoje zvončarske grupe dijelom su razjedinjene u više različitih općina. Osim te administrativne prepreke, još se većom čini heterogenost pogleda na sam običaj različitih zvončarskih skupina pa i svojevrstan konkurentski odnos među nekima. No to je već element tradicijske kulture po sebi i ugrađen je u značenje ovog običaja, pa ga kao takvog treba i interpretirati. Zapravo, čini mi se da su djelatnici na razini Županije ti koju trebaju poduzeti prve korake u tom smjeru, svakako u suradnji sa lokalnom zajednicom.

Prvi pisani podaci o tradiciji zvonjenja na Halubju datiraju iz 1860. godine. Zapis se veže uz devetoricu stanovnika sela Marčelji koji su od mariborske ljevaonice naručili devet zvonaca obujma od 7 do 9 litara. Upravo ta narudžba smatra se začetkom današnjih Halubajskih zvončara. Halubajski stoga što su i oni i kraj iz kojeg dolaze dobili naziv po halubama – kolibicama od drva, kamena ili slame u koju bi se za nevremena sklanjali pastiri. U zapisima etnologa Ive Jardasa nailazimo na opis zvončarske kolone iz prve polovice prošloga stoljeća. Tako Jardas piše da su ondašnji zvončari na leđima nosili ovčju kožu, na glavi masku od ovčje ili kunićeve kože koja je imala nos načinjen od oguljenog klipa kukuruza, te otvore za oči i usta. Maska je imala i čeljust koja se mogla pomicati uzicom pa je stoga dobila ime klockalica. Oko pojasa su nosili pet do šest malih zvona, u desnoj ruci toljagu zvanu bačuka, a u lijevoj čarapu punu pepela. Bili su obuveni u opanke i obojane vunene čarape (crvene, zelene ili plave) navučene do koljena. Zvončari su imali i obaveznu pratnju koju su činili Vrag, Tat (lopov) i Medved (medvjed). Vrag je bio odjeven u crno, na glavi je imao crnu masku s prorezima za oči i usta s dugačkim krpenim crvenim jezikom. Zadatak mu je bio da trčkarajući uz zvončare s nacrnjenim rukama maže lica svih koji im se nađu na putu. Medvjeda su vodili na lancu i dok je on plesao tat je ulazio ljudima u kuću i krao sve što mu je pod ruku došlo. Pokradeno su ukućani poslije morali od njega otkupiti jelom i pićem.

The first written data with regard to the tradition of bell ringing on Halubje dates back to 1860. The note is connected to the nine inhabitants of the village of Marčelji who ordered nine bells from the Maribor foundry with a volume of between 7 to 9 litres. It is precisely this order that is considered to be the beginning of today’s Halubje Bell ringers. They are known as the Halubje Bell ringers because they and the area they came from received the name from the halube – the small cottages made of wood, stone or straw in which the shepherds would shelter during the bad weather. Amongst ethnologist Ivo Jardas' notes a description can be found of the bell ringers line from the first half of the 20th century. In this way Jardas writes that bell ringers of the past wore sheep skins on their backs, and masks made of sheep or rabbit skin on their head which had a nose made of a peeled corncob with holes for their eyes and mouth. The mask also had a jaw that could be moved by using a string and for this reason was called the klockalica. Around their waists they wore 6 small bells, in their right hands they carried a cudgel known as the bačuka, and in the left a sock full of ashes. On their feet they wore strapped soft soled footwear and colourful socks (red, green or blue) which were pulled up to their knees. Bell ringers had obligatory company made up of the Devil, a Thief, and a Bear. The Devil wore a black suit with a black mask with holes for his eyes and mouth, and a long red cloth tongue on his head. His task was to jump around the bell ringers and to dirty everyone on their way with his

ETHNOLOGIST LIDIJA NIKOČEVIĆ TALKING ABOUT BELL RINGERS FROM THE OLD MUNICIPALITY OF KASTAV

UNESCO’s Message - We Respect Your Tradition We asked ethnologist, Lidija Nikočević, manageress of the Ethnographic Museum of Istria and member of the Commission for the intangible cultural heritage of the Republic of Croatia, after we won this prestigious UNESCO acknowledgment, what does this acknowledgement mean for Croatia and what does it mean for the bell ringers and others who have found themselves on UNESCO’s list of cultural intangible heritage and particularly what does it mean in practice. Croatia can be very satisfied with the quantity of cultural goods it has and which are included on UNESCO’s Representative list. UNESCO's results are not brought by Santa Claus with gifts - but with a message - we greatly respect your tradition, it is truly unique and valuable within all world frames and if you create good ways of preserving and popularizing it, many doors may be opened for you. The practical value of this accomplishment then depends primarily on local boards and employees' efforts in cultural, education and tourism sectors. Activities and projects in Rukavac, Matulji and Viškovo already exist and taking them into consideration when I wrote the nominees text, I suggested the following protection measures and a series of programs for the preservation and popularization of this custom (gathering documentation, travelling exhibition, famous publication and internet page, scientific research,

the founding of a Visitors and Documentation Centre, programs and workshops for visitors, workshops for children and other such things). UNESCO’s commission has positively evaluated this program, but now there is the question of who is going to show enough interest in order to implement it. As institute manageress in the neighbouring Istria County, I am not the only one to be able to do this. There is certainly a great possibility of getting financial help if good projects are suggested to the Ministries for Croatian and European funds. The presumption for this is the participation of local tourist boards and often the collaboration between more boards. This could represent a problem as boards having their own bell ringers groups are mainly divided amongst a number of different municipalities. Besides this administrative barrier, an even greater barrier seems to be the heterogeneity of views towards the same custom of different bell ringers’ groups as well as a kind of competitive relationship between some of them. But this is already an element of traditional culture which has been inserted by itself within the meaning of this custom and should be interpreted as such. In my opinion, County employees are those who should actually be making the first steps in that direction, especially by collaborating with local boards.

...komandant zazviždi za kraj kola i da znak zvončarima da slijedi razlaz iz te specifične formacije. Skidaju maske i goste se svim onim što su im domaćini priredili, a priređuju im prave gozbe od domaćih jela i pića. Tad nastupaju muzikanti i jajari koji ulaze u kuće i lupajući kuhačama u dno zdjela traže od domaćina jaja. ...captain whistles to mark the end of the round dance and to give a sign to bell ringers to dismiss from this particular formation. They take off their masks and try everything their hosts have prepared for them such as real banquets made of local dishes and drinks. Then the musicians begin an egg collectors’ performance that sees them entering the houses and banging ladles on the pots and pans – as a way of asking their hosts to give them eggs. blackened hands. The Bear was guided on a chain and whilst he was dancing, the Thief entered people’s houses and stole everything he could find. The home owners then had to buy back the stolen things with food and drink. Today’s Halubje Bell ringers no longer have a Thief and their costume differs slightly from the old one. For example, they replaced the strapped soft soled footwear with high and heavy black shoes some time ago; several bells have been changed with only one of 9 or 10 litres that they tie around their waists with a cord. Their masks are bigger and scarier than the old ones and every bellringer creates his own mask and is only recognizable by the others thanks to his personal mask. Masks weigh from between 8 to 12 kilograms and are created in a way that includes pasting cardboard onto a steel construction, sewing sheep’s, wild boar’s or cow's skin, putting in casted teeth and eyes made of skin or sponge... Making this kind of mask requires real skill and arduous and long lasting work.

Bells in Procession Certain characteristic have never changed, no matter whether they are from the western or eastern part of the old Municipality of Kastav, and these are their traditional processions. For example, the Halubje Bell ringers begin their procession on the Sunday before the burning of the Pust from the village of Marčelji, more precisely, from a place where, in the past, the Pul Bačurkineh tavern was located. They visit all the villages in the eastern part of the Kastav area. The group is always preceded by musicians and the bell ringers leader, the so called, captain. Accordions, drums, trumpets or clarinets are the instruments that accompany the bell ringers, the devil circles around them and dirties the people with black, the bear rushes forward into the spectators, rolls over on the floor and performs

Današnji Halubajski zvončari nemaju tata, a imaju i nešto drugačiju odoru. Primjerice, opanke su već davno zamijenili visokim crnim teškim cipelama, više zvona jednim jedinim od 9 ili 10 litara koje im je konopom privezano oko pasa. Maske su im veće i strašnije od nekadašnjih, a svaki je zvončar kreator svoje maske i jedino ga po njoj ostali mogu i prepoznati. Maske su teške od 8 do 12 kilograma, a nastaju tako da se na čeličnu konstrukciju lijepi karton, šije ovčja, veprova ili kravlja koža, stavljaju gipsani zubi, oči od kože ili spužve... Izraditi masku iziskuje pravo umijeće, mukotrpan i dugotrajan rad.

Zvona u ophodu Ono što se kod zvončara, neovisno dolazili oni sa zapadnog ili istočnog dijela nekadašnjeg Kastavskog komuna nije mijenjalo jesu njihovi tradicionalni ophodi. Primjerice, Halubajski zvončari u ophod kreću na Pusnu nedeju iz Marčeji, točnije s mjesta na kojem se nekad nalazila gostionica »Pul Bačurkineh«. Obahajaju (obilaze) sva sela istočne Kastavštine. Na čelu kolone su uvijek muzikanti i vođa zvončara tzv. komandant. Harmonika, bubanj, truba ili klarinet instrumenti su koji prate zvončare, vrag kruži i crnilom crni ljude, medvjed se zalijeće u gledatelje, valja po podu i izvodi svekolike vratolomije, a zvončari zvone li ga zvone od sela do sela, od zaselka do zaselka, diljem Kastavštine. Uzrečica koja glasi »na svaki korak zvono se mora čut« znači da zvončari hodaju teškim i širokim korakom. Hodaju »ukriž« tako da jedni idu lijevo, drugi desno da bi se potom našli u sredini. Putuju šumom i drumom, a na dijelovima puta na kojima nema gledatelja a koji se ovisno o ruti znaju protegnuti

a variety of exhibitions and the bell ringers do not stop ringing, from village to village, from hamlet to hamlet, all around the Kastav area. The proverb “on every step the bell must be heard” means that bell ringers walk with a hard and wide step. They walk “cross like" so that some of them move towards the left and others towards the right and then they all gather together in the centre. They travel through the woods and along the roads and in some parts of their travel, depending on the route which sometimes extends up to 20 kilometres in one day, in places where spectators cannot see them, they can take off their masks and wear them on their shoulders or carry them under their arms. They enter every village with their masks on and perform a special show, known as the bell ringers round dance, for the common people gathered there. A circle is made by the bell ringers walking around and with every step they get closer to each other; at first they ring their bells as powerfully as they can, and as they get closer, the ringing calms down and in the end stops. Then the captain whistles to mark the end of the round dance and to give a sign to bell ringers to dismiss from this particular formation. They take off their masks and try everything their hosts have prepared for them such as real banquets made of local dishes and drinks. Then the musicians begin an egg collectors’ performance that sees them entering the houses and banging ladles on the pots and pans – as a way of asking their hosts to give them eggs. The eggs that are collected are then used for the final big party altogether where the main delicacy is an omelette made of those eggs collected during the procession.

i do 20 kilometara u jednom danu, smiju skinuti masku i nositi ju na ramenu ili pod rukom. U svako selo ulaze zamaskirani, a okupljenom puku upriliče i posebnu točku znanu kao zvončarsko kolo. Tvori se tako da zvončari hodaju u krug koji se svakim korakom sve više zbija, najprije zvone najjače što mogu, a kako se zbijaju zvonjava jenjava, da bi pri zgotovljenju kola sve utihnulo. Tada komandant zazviždi za kraj kola i kao znak zvončarima da slijedi razlaz iz te specifične formacije. Skidaju maske i goste se svim onim što su im domaćini priredili, a priređuju im prave gozbe od domaćih jela i pića. Tad nastupaju muzikanti i jajari koji ulaze u kuće i lupajući kuhačama u dno zdjela traže od domaćina jaja. Prikupljena jaja iskoristit će na kraju za veliku zajedničku feštu na kojoj je glavna poslastica upravo fritaja (omlet) načinjena od na ophodima prikupljenih jaja.

Life with a Bell It is not easy to tell a story about the steps and the bell ringers’ round dance, this simply has to be seen and experienced. Feel every sound of the bell. Only then can you become acquainted with the entire image of the strength, community and true bond it has with the area and its customs. The Halubje Bell ringers end their three day procession on the Tuesday before the burning of the Pust, or at the end of the carnival period. Then they burn a straw villain in the centre who is blamed for any bad things that have happened. The bell ringers’ bells become still at midnight and their silence announces Ash Wednesday and the start of Lent. Everything in the village of Rukavac stands still until the next feast of St. Anthony and their bell ringers do not come out onto the street and do not visit other carnivals and bell ringers’ parades either in Croatia or abroad. Other bell ringer groups often answer the various tourist events so as to spread consciousness about the bell ringers’ traditions and promoting the culture and customs of their area around the world. As long as there are bells, there will be bell ringers as well as bell ringers processions, although not everyone can become a bell ringer. It is above all a great honour that asks for remarkable strength, will and renunciation and in some bell ringers groups it means your origins too. The tradition is passed down from generation to generation so that in some bell ringers processions, several generations might

Život sa zvonom Teško je prepričati i korak i kolo zvončara, to se jednostavno mora vidjeti i doživjeti. Osjetiti svaki zvon. Tek onda se može steći kompletna slika snage, zajedništva i iskonske vezanosti uz kraj i njegove običaje. Halubajski zvončari trodnevni ophod završavaju na Pusni utorak ili Mesopust. Tad u centru mjesta pale slamnatoga krivca za sve nedaće. U pol noći utihnu zvončarska zvona, a njihova tišina nagovještava Čistu srijedu i početak korizme. Do iduće Antonje sve miruje u Rukavcu jer njihovi zvončari ne izlaze »na asfalt« i ne posjećuju ostale karnevale i zvončarske smotre u zemlji i inozemstvu. Ostale zvončarske skupine često se odazivaju raznoraznim turističkim manifestacijama šireći tako svijetom svijest o zvončarskoj tradiciji, te promičući kulturu i običaje svog kraja. Dok je zvonaca bit će i zvončara i zvončarskih ophoda, iako zvončar ne može biti svatko. To je prije svega velika čast, iziskuje veliku snagu, volju i odricanje, a u nekim zvončarskim skupinama podrazumijeva i korijene. Tradicija se prenosi s koljena na koljeno, pa je u onim spominjanim zvončarskim ophodima zvonilo i po nekoliko generacija, šećući istim šumama, istim putevima i stazicama, livadama i proplancima. Iste su ih obitelji generacijama dočekivale, iste su se pjesme pjevale i svirale, s istim jelima i pićima su se gostili. Biti zvončar ili dondolaš stvar je svjetonazora, stila života i ljubavi prema zavičaju. Stoga za kraj zazvonit ćemo njihovom uzrečicom – krepat ma ne molat. Oni tako već stoljećima.

U čast zvončarima, Primorsko-goranska županija objavila je kalendar sa jedinstvenim fotografijama zvončarskih ophoda. In the honour of Bell Ringers, the County of Primorje and Gorski kotar published a calendar with their unique photographs.

Halubajski zvončari trodnevni ophod završavaju na Pusni utorak ili Mesopust. Tad u centru mjesta pale slamnatoga krivca za sve nedaće. U pol noći utihnu zvončarska zvona, a njihova tišina nagovještava Čistu srijedu i početak korizme. The Halubje Bell ringers end their three day procession on the Tuesday before the burning of the Pust, or at the end of the carnival period. Then they burn a straw villain in the centre who is blamed for any bad things that have happened. The bell ringers’ bells become still at midnight and their silence announces Ash Wednesday and the start of Lent. be ringing together walking through the same forests, down the same roads and paths, meadows and lawns. The same families have been welcoming them for generations and the same songs have been sung and played, and the same dishes and beverages have been eaten and drunk. Being a bell ringer is all about your point of view, lifestyle and love for your homeland. So finally let's ring out their proverb – krepat ma ne molat (die but don’t let go). They have been doing it for centuries.

Intervju / Interview

Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža Fotografije / Photos: Davor Žunić

Rade Šerbedžija

Šešir je njegov zaštitni znak, a Peer Gynt, Don Juan, Georgij, Melkior, Edip, Hamlet, Leon, Richard III... neponovljiva glumačka ostvarenja. Napisao je i objavio četiri knjige poezije i četiri nosača zvuka, te postavio brojne autorske režije. Ako navedemo da je s Angelinom Jolie upravo dovršio snimanje filma, te da je dobitnik brojnih vrhunskih nagrada i priznanja, onda će biti jasno da je naš sugovornik kazališni, filmski i televizijski glumac Rade Šerbedžija. Poznato je kako je sa Vanessom Redgrave pokrenuo teatar u kojemu uprizoruju Brecht in egzile, Liberation of Skopje, Smoke... Nakon svjetskoga uspjeha „Prije kiše“ angažiraju ga P. Noyce, J. Woo, S. Kubrick, F. Rossi (La Trequa) i drugi. Glumio je s Valom Kilmerom, Elizabeth Shue, Johnom Turturrom, Tomom Cruiseom i drugima. Sa suprugom Lenkom i djecom Danilom, Lucijom, Ninom, Vanjom i Milicom živio je prvo u Londonu, a potom u Americi. Sredinom ove godine Šerbedžija je s obitelji doselio u Rijeku, a glavni razlog je pokretanje poslijediplomskog specijalističkog studija „Gluma, mediji, kultura“ pri riječkom Sveučilištu u ožujku iduće godine.

The Hat is his symbol and Peer Gynt, Don Juan, Georgij, Melchior, Edip, Hamlet, Leon, Richard III...his unrepeatable acting accomplishments. He has written and published four poetry books and four albums as well as numerous author directions. If we mention that he has just finished filming a movie with Angelina Jolie and that he is a winner of numerous top prizes and acknowledgments, and then it will be clear that our interlocutor is theatre, film and TV actor Rade Šerbedžija. It is well-known that he began running a theatre with Vanessa Redgrave where they hosted Brecht whilst in exile, the Liberation of Skopje, Smoke… After the world acclaimed success of “Before the Rain” he has worked alongside P. Noyce, J. Woo, S. Kubrick, F. Rossi (The Truce - La Tregua) and others. He has acted with Val Kilmer, Elizabeth Shue, John Turturro, Tom Cruise, etc. With his wife Lenka and his children Danilo, Lucija, Nina, Vanja and Milica he initially lived in London and then in America. In the middle of this year Šerbedžija moved to Rijeka with his family and the main reason for this was the start of a post-graduate, specialized studies course "Acting, media, culture" at the Rijeka University in March next year.

- G. Šerbedžija, mnogi u Hrvatskoj priželjkuju život u Americi, a Vi se ste iz Amerike preselili u Rijeku. Što je presudilo takvoj odluci?

- Mr Šerbedžija, many people in Croatia would like to live in America and you have moved from America to Rijeka. What was the crucial reason for making that decision?

Prijedlog rektora Sveučilišta u Rijeci, prof. Pere Lučina da ovdje pokrenemo studij „Gluma, mediji, kultura“. No, moram priznati da supruga Lenka i ja već godina priželjkujemo povratak u Hrvatsku iz mnogo razloga. Glavni razlog je što smo željeli našu djecu približiti korijenima našeg naroda i kako bi više sličile Europljankama, nego Amerikankama.

The proposal made by the University of Rijeka’s principal, prof. Pero Lučin to start a course of “Acting, media, culture”. Although I have to confess that my wife Lenka and I have wanted to return to Croatia for a number of reasons. The main reason is that we wanted to make the roots of our nation closer to our children and we wanted them to look more like Europeans than like Americans.

- Amerika Vas očito nije oduševila? Amerika je puna paradoksa, protuslovlja. Nudi fantastične mogućnosti, ali tamo ipak prevladava okrutni kapitalizam. Ja sam kozmopolit razvijenog osjećaja za socijalnu pravdu. Socijalistički sam odgojen i mislim da bi ljudi u tom svijetu trebali biti jednakiji. Osim toga, Lenka i ja smo se već umorili. Nedostaje nam više odmora, ležernosti i naša zemlja. Filmsku karijeru mogu nastaviti i iz Rijeke i putovati bilo gdje, kao što to i sada činim. - U razgovoru koji smo prije nekoliko godina vodili na Brijunima rekli ste mi da „kada novi ljudi dolaze sa svojim energijama, odjednom rijeka dobiva drugi tok“. Znači li to da će i Rijeka s Vama u njoj pokazati dosad neviđeno lice? Ne želim ništa obećavati. Umoran sam od obećavanja, velikih riječi i projekata. No, nemam nikakvih ambicija raditi u

- Apparently America did not thrill you? America is full of paradoxes, contradictions. It offers fantastic possibilities, but nevertheless a cruel capitalism prevails there. I am a cosmopolitan with a developed feeling for social justice. I’ve been raised in socialistic way and in my opinion; people in that world should be more equal. Besides that, Lenka and I were a bit tired. We missed having more relaxation, casualness and we missed our home country. I can continue my film carrier even from Rijeka and travel anywhere, as I am doing now. - In the conversation we had a few days ago on Brijuni, you said that “when new people come with their energies, the river suddenly takes on another flow”. Does that mean that Rijeka, now you are here, will now show a face that has never been seen before?

riječkom teatru, jer me teatar u tom smislu više ne zanima. To trebaju raditi mladi ljudi. Želja mi je da u Rijeci sa suprugom, a u dogovoru s gradonačelnikom Vojkom Obersnelom, pronađem prostor za eksperimentalni međunarodni teatar za manje predstave, s manje ljudi, a koji bi bio povezan s našim radom na novom studiju. - Jedna od specifičnosti ovoga studija svakako je i to da ćete glumce osim na hrvatskom poučavati i na engleskom jeziku? Još je otvorena mogućnost i za nastavu na talijanskom jeziku. Koristeći metodu mog 101-godišnjeg prijatelja Arthura Lessaca, pomoći ćemo mladim ljudima da unutar dvije godine izgube naglasak i ravnopravno konkuriraju za ulogu u Americi, Engleskoj i drugdje. To je značajno za budućnost ovog studija, jer u Hrvatskoj ima puno glumaca, a malo teatara. Ljude ćemo educirati da osim glumačkog posla, steknu znanja i vještine za obavljanje nekih drugih unutar izvedbenih umjetnosti; u kazalištu, na televiziji,... - Očekuje se kako ćete privući i brojne ugledne vanjske suradnike iz zemlje i inozemstva slavne prijatelje iz filmskog svijeta. Spomenuli ste mi rektora edinburške akademije Nigela Osbornea. Koga nam još možete najaviti? Arthura Leesaca i njegove suradnike, Vanessu Redgrave, Johna Turturra. Susret mladih glumaca sa velikim svjetskim glumcima i redateljima nevjerojatno pokreće. Vrlo često u samo nekoliko sati pravog rada i prenošenja iskustava možete naučiti više nego inače u godinu dana. Studij će svakako biti ono što predstavljamo moja supruga Lenka koja je režirala u najvećim kazalištima svijeta i ja. - Posebnu pažnju posvetit ćete metodi Arthura Lessaca, Vašeg velikog prijatelja i jednog od najpoznatijih američkih stručnjaka i profesora scenskoga govora koji je nedavno navršio 101 godinu? Teško je to objasniti u jednome intervjuu. Ta metoda podrazumijeva povezanost s mnogim stvarima; sa studijem jezika kao jezika, učenjem engleskog jezika, praktičnim vježbama govora, disanja, akcije tijela. Slična je metodi vrsne stručnjakinje Cecile Berry koju sam prvi donio u Hrvatsku. - Koga smatrate talentiranim glumcem? To je teško reći. Imate talentiranih glumaca, a imate i izuzetnih. - Kako ih prepoznajete? Talentirane glumce osjeti publika; možda čak i više nego ljudi koji se bave teatrom. Talent se nameće i prepoznaje, ali je rijedak. Ima ih i u Hrvatskoj, iako moram priznati da mlade glumce ovdje nisam puno gledao. Osobno bih jako volio raditi neku tešku ulogu s Vilijem Matulom koji mi se strašno sviđa, baš kao i Mokrović, Cvetković, Križan. Drago mi je da u Hrvatskoj ima tako sposobnih glumaca. - Smatrate da je sve u umjetnosti zapravo upitno, često povezano sa srećom i slučajem, nepredvidivo?

I don't want to promise anything. I am tired of promising, big words and projects. But I don’t have any ambitions to work in Rijeka’s theatre as I am not interested in theatre in that sense any more. This should be done by young people. My wish is to find, together with my wife and in accordance with Mayor Vojko Obersnel, a location for experimental international theatre for smaller shows, with less people which would be connected to our work on the new course. - One of the particularities of this course is definitely the fact that you will be teaching actors both in Croatian and in English? The possibility of teaching in the Italian language is still open. Using the method of my 101 year-old friend Arthur Lessac, we will help young people to loose their accent within two years and equally compete for roles in America, England and elsewhere. This is important for the future of this study as in Croatia there are a great many actors and a small number of theatres. We will educate people to acquire, besides acting work, knowledge and skills for undertaking jobs within the executable arts; in theatre and on television… - It is expected that you will attract numerous respectable external collaborators from Croatia and from abroad; famous friends from the film industry. You mentioned the principal of the Edinburgh academy, Nigel Osborne… Who else can you reveal? Arthur Lessac and his collaborators, Vanessa Redgrave and John Turturro. The meeting of young actors with great world actors and directors motivates in an incredible way. Very often in just a few hours of real work and transferring experience, you can learn more than you normally would in a year. The course will certainly be what I represent as well as what my wife Lenka, who was director in some of the biggest theatres in the world, represents too. - Special attention will be dedicated to the Arthur Lessac method, your great friend and one of the most famous American experts and professors of scene speech who recently celebrated his 101st birthday? It is hard to explain in one interview. This method implies the connection of a number of things; with language studies as well as language itself, learning the English language, using practical speech exercises, breathing, and body movements. It is similar to the method used by the expert, Cecile Berry, which I first introduced to Croatia. - In your opinion, who do you consider to be a talented actor? This is difficult question. There are talented actors and there are extraordinary actors. - How do you recognize them? Talented actors are felt by the public; maybe even more then people who are occupied with theatre. Talent is imposed and recognized, but it’s rare. There are talents in Croatia but I must

Umjetnost ništa ne jamči. Na početku nekog projekta ne možeš biti siguran da ćeš uspjeti. Često se događalo da najavimo „glumačku reprezentaciju“, a u konačnici zakaže cijeli projekt. Ponekad pak nema nikakvih jamstava, a napravi se briljantna predstava. Uistinu mislim da pritom sreća igra vrlo veliku ulogu. Poznajem mnoge sjajne glumce i s naših prostora koji su se na neki način na kraju i umorili od čekanja tog trenutka, a jednostavno se nije dogodio. Tako je često i u životu- imaš sve, a jednostavno se ne posloži da u pravom trenutku budeš na pravom mjestu. - No, život u Americi i holivudsku karijeru preseljenjem u Rijeku niste stavili u drugi plan. U Americi je ostala Nina koja tamo studira. I u LA-u sam znao sjediti kao sada u Rijeci, igrati tenis, a onda primiti poziv agenta s ponudom za snimanje filma, obično u nekoj drugoj zemlji. Preselio sam se u Hrvatsku, a istodobno radio tri filma. Snimanje filma sa Angelinom Jolie završeno je 15. studenoga, radio sam i u Londonu a radim i sada jer je snimanje talijanskog filma u kojemu igram glavnu ulogu počelo 12. studenoga. Da sam sada u LA-u, zbog svih ovih obveza morao bi biti u Europi. Bio bih užasno nervozan i nezadovoljan, jer sam daleko od obitelji. - Što nam možete reći o filmu s Angelinom Jolie? Scenarij je temeljen na istinitoj priči i sjajan je. To je ljubavna priča o mladom Srbinu i Muslimanki koji su se zagledali jedno u drugo nekoliko večeri prije početka rata u Bosni. Tako počinje film, a onda slijedi suludi rat. Radnja

admit I haven’t been watching young actors here a lot. I would personally like to play a lot difficult roles with Vili Matula who I like very much, as well as with Mokrović, Cvetković, Križan. I am glad that Croatia has so many competent actors. - Do you think that everything in art is really questionable, often connected with pure luck, fate and is unpredictable? Art does not guarantee anything. At the beginning of certain projects you cannot be sure of success. It has often happened that we announce an “actors' representation” and in the end the whole project does not function. On the other hand, sometimes there are no guarantees and the show turns out brilliantly. I really think that life plays a big, big role. I know many great actors, even from our area, who in some way got tired in the end of waiting for that moment which simply didn’t happen. Even in real life, it is often a similar problem – you have everything, and it simply does not happen that you find yourself in the right place at the right time. - But, you haven't put your life in America and your Hollywood career into second place. Nina has stayed in America as she studies there. Even when I was in LA I was used to sit as I do in Rijeka now, I played tennis and then my agent would call me with an offer of a film shoot, usually in some other country. I moved to Croatia and at the same time was working on three films. Shooting with Angelina Jolie terminated on 15th November, I worked in London and still do, and filming the Italian film, in which I play a leading role, began on 12th November. If I were in LA now, I would have

prati ratna zbivanja u kojima ta mala Muslimanka završava u srpskome logoru, a mladić je na neki način spašava. Među njima se javlja strastvena, ali nemoguća ljubav.

to come to Europe for all these commitments. I was very nervous and unsatisfied as I was far away from my family.

- Vaša druga najveća ljubav, u profesionalnom smislu, nakon glume, je pjevanje. Nakon velikog uspjeha albuma „Imam pjesmu za tebe”, radite na novom albumu i to ponovno sa svjetski poznatim gitaristom Miroslavom Tadićem.

The script is based on a true story and is great. It is a love story about a young Serb and a Muslim woman who started to have feelings for each other a few nights before the war began in Bosnia. That is how the film starts and then follows the insane war. The plot follows war events in which this young Muslim woman ends up in a Serb camp, and the young man saves her in some way. Between them a passionate though impossible love emerges.

Novi album se zove po jednoj od pjesama „Ponekad dolazim, ponekad odlazim“. Među autorima pjesama su Miljenko Jergović i moj novi prijatelj iz Rijeke, prof. Nikica Petković koji će predavati na našem studiju. Ostale pjesme sam osobno napisao, a Miroslav je doveo američki bend s kojim ću u Rijeci nastupiti u HKD-u na Sušaku, 26. prosinca ove godine. - Rođeni ste u Lici, a školovali ste se u Vinkovcima. Iz toga grada potječu brojna velika hrvatska imena poput Ivana i Josipa Kozarca, Josipa Runjanina, Vanje Dracha, Fabijana Šovagovića... Što je tako poticajno u Slavoniji? Svaki hrvatski kraj dao je nekog velikana, no činjenica je da u Slavoniji zaista ima nešto posebno. Neka temeljitost. To je vjerojatno zbog mentaliteta. Tamo nema planina. Sam si pod suncem koje te grije i udara ti u tjeme. Nabiješ šešir od rane mladosti i onda ti ostane na glavi i zaboraviš da ga imaš kao što se meni dogodilo u 16-oj godini. Život u Slavoniji je jako težak. Tu je čovjek već od mladosti upućeniji na sebe. To je možda i razlog zašto su iz tog kraja ljudi temeljitiji, kao „teška kategorija“.

- What can you say about the film with Angelina Jolie?

- Your second biggest love after acting, with regard to the profession, is singing. After the great success of the album „Imam pjesmu za tebe” (I have a song for you), you have begun working on the new album and once again with the world famous guitar player, Miroslav Tadić. The new album got its name from one of the songs from the album called “I sometimes arrive and sometimes leave”. Amongst the song authors are Miljenko Jergović and my new friend from Rijeka, professor Nikica Petković who will be teaching on our course. Other songs have been written by me, and Miroslav brought an American band with whom I will perform in Rijeka on 26th December 2010 at the Croatian Cultural Centre on Sušak. - You were born in Lika, and attended school in Vinkovci. Numerous famous Croatian names such as Ivan and Josip Kozarac, Josip Runjanin, Vanje Drach, Fabijan Šovagović have come from Vinkovci… What is so motivating in Slavonija? Every part of Croatia has produced great men, but the fact that there is something special in Slavonija is true. There is a kind of solidness. This is probably because of the mentality there. There are no mountains. You are on your own under the sun that heats you and bumps in the top of your head. You put your hat on when you are still young and it remains on your head until you forget you are wearing it as happened to me when I was 16 years old. Life in Slavonija is really hard. The people here are more aware of themselves even at a young age. This is maybe a reason why people from that area are so solid, like a "high weight category". - Do you have many hats? Yes. I wear them, lose them, people steal them from me. Recently I bought one that I had been looking for for a long time – a grey Borsalino that looks like the one Krleža gave me as a present. I don’t perform in Krleža’s hat because I think he wouldn’t like seeing me sing with a hat on. But when I speak and think, then I wear it, yes. It inspires me. - Your family surely suffers for your commitments around the world. How much are you bothered by this distance? It happened that I became a foreigner in my own country. This excludes any kind of political connotations. I left, by chance, and suddenly started taking the customs and mentality of other nations, even if I wasn't a part of that nation either. I have become a foreigner again.

U Rijeci mi se sviđa što me nitko ništa ne pita, nema podozrivosti i promatranja. U ovom i podneblju Istre drugačije se živi nego u ostatku Hrvatske. I like that nobody asks me anything, there is neither suspiciousness nor do I have people watching me. In this area and in Istria, people live different lives compared to the rest of Croatia. - Imate li puno šešira? Imam. Nosim ih, gubim ih, kradu mi ih. Sad sam nedavno kupio jedan koji sam dugo tražio - sivi Borsalino koji samo liči na Krležin koji mi je poklonio. U Krležinom šeširu ne nastupam, jer mislim da on ne bi bio zadovoljan da pjevam u šeširu. Ali da govorim, mislim, nosim ga - to da. Inspirira me. - Vaša obitelj zasigurno trpi zbog angažmana po cijelome svijetu. U kojoj Vas mjeri opterećuje ta udaljenost? Meni se dogodilo da sam postao stranac u vlastitoj zemlji. To isključuje bilo kakve političke konotacije. Otišao sam igrom slučaja i odjednom počeo preuzimati navike i mentalitet drugoga naroda, iako ni tamo nikad nisi dio tog naroda. Opet sam stranac. - Znači li to da se ponekad osjećate kao da nikamo ne pripadate? Da, ali to nije turoban osjećaj. Ja u svijet nisam otišao iz političkih razloga, već svojevoljno. U tome sam pronašao posebnu, neograničenu vrstu slobode; kao avionom umjesto na 11.000 km nadmorske visine letiš na 16.000 km. Taj zračni prostor otvorio mi je drugačiji pogled na sve - imam širinu. Iz toga proizlazi pozitivan osjećaj nadnacionalnosti. Ja zaista volim i poštujem hrvatsku tradiciju i nacionalnost i osjećaj ljudi koji imaju za povijest, umjetnost i svoj jezik, ali ja isti takav odnos imam prema bilo kojem drugom narodu. Volim tako živjeti. - Rekli ste mi da Rijeku, u hrvatskim okvirima smatrate najpoželjnijim gradom za život? Sviđa mi se što me nitko ništa ne pita, nema podozrivosti i promatranja. U ovom i podneblju Istre drugačije se živi nego u ostatku Hrvatske. To nije samo zbog sastava stanovništva, već i zbog stoljetnog života ljudi na ovim prostorima koji su prošli kroz Italiju, Austriju i druge strane utjecaje i iz svega izvukli ono najbolje. - Kad sam Vas jednom pitala tko je Vaš moralni uzor, odgovorili ste mi da su to Vaši prijatelji. Još uvijek je tako? Iza toga stojim i danas. Imam puno prijatelja, poznatih i nepoznatih, a od svih njih učim cijeli život. U prijateljstvu čovjek najviše uči, jer se otvori i povjeri drugome.

- Does that mean that you sometimes feel like you don't belong anywhere? Yes, but this is not a sad feeling. I didn’t go into the world for political reasons, but with my own will. In it I have found a special, unlimited kind of freedom; as if I were flying in a plane at a height of 16,000 km instead of 11,000 km. This aerospace has opened up a number of different views for everything – I have that wideness. From that this positive feeling emerges over nationality. I really like and respect the Croatian tradition and nationality as well as our people's feelings for their past, art and language, but I have this same relationship with any other nation. I like to live that way. - You said that you consider Rijeka, within the Croatian borders, the most desirable city to live in? I like that nobody asks me anything, there is neither suspiciousness nor do I have people watching me. In this area and in Istria, people live different lives compared to the rest of Croatia. It is not only because of the population structure, but because of the hundreds of years of people living on these areas that have passed through the hands of Italy, Austria and other foreign influences and have drawn the best from all of them. - When I once asked you who your moral ideal was, you answered that it was your friends. Is the answer still the same? I think that way even today. I have many friends, famous and not and I have been learning from all of them my whole life. Man can learn the most from friendship as he opens up and confides in another person.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Slavica Mrkić Modrić Fotografije / Photos: TZ Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board

Rijeka stoljećima živi Karneval Rijeka has been living the Carnival for centuries

Maska skrojena prema gradu,

grad skrojen

prema maski

A mask tailored to the shape of the city, a city tailored to the shape of the mask

Riječki je Karneval bez sumnje riječka prepoznatljivost, brend, specifičnost. Svoju priču ispisuje stoljećima, svoju drugačijost njeguje stoljećima, svoju tradiciju nikada ne zanemaruje, a ipak se mijenja u skladu s vremenom u kojem živi. Ono što se nikad ne mijenja je osjećaj sreće i ponosa kad Primorac stavi masku tamo gdje joj je mjesto. Najprije na sebe, a onda i na svoj grad. Svoju maškaranu Rijeku. Rijeka je po mnogočemu specifičan grad u Hrvatskoj. Po mnogočemu je poznata izvan granica Hrvatske, ali ono po čemu je znaju diljem svijeta i što njezinoj specifičnosti pridonosi u najvećem postotku, jest Karneval. Karneval u Rijeci nije samo jedan u nizu događanja. Rijeka živi karneval i živi za karneval. Tomu je tako već dugi niz godina. Štoviše – stoljeća. Ako znamo da se grad na Rječini pod imenom Rijeka prvi put "upisuje" u knjige u 12. stoljeću, a njegov karneval u 15. onda nije teško zaključiti kako je masku, u za to predviđeno – pokladno vrijeme, grad stavio na sebe negdje „u međuvremenu". Kad točno, nepoznanica je, no ono što se zna jest – kako je masku tada stavio, tako je do danas nosi, prenoseći s koljena na koljeno, generacije na generaciju tradiciju maskiranja i svega onog što ona podrazumijeva.

Maškarani genetski kod Mijenjale su se države, vlasti, mijenjao se grad, ali tradicija je ostala, pa u vrijeme Pusta ili Mesopusta, kako se to u Hrvatskom Primorju kaže, Rijeka obuče karnevalsko ruho The Rijeka Carnival is definitely what Rijeka is recognised for, its brand and its particularity. It has been writing its history for centuries, cherishing its diversity for centuries, and has never ignored its tradition whilst at the same time changing in accordance with the times in which it is happening. What has never changed is the feeling of happiness and pride when someone from the Croatian Littoral puts his mask where it belongs. First on himself, then on his city. His masked Rijeka. Rijeka is a very particular city in Croatia for a number of things. It is also known for many things outside the Croatian borders, but the Carnival is an event that is known the world over and which contributes to the town’s particularity the most. The Carnival in Rijeka is not the only event during the carnival period. Rijeka lives the Carnival and for the Carnival. This has happened for many years. For centuries - even. If we know that the city on the Rječina known as Rijeka was "registered" for the first time in the 12th century, and its Carnival in the 15th century, then it is not difficult to conclude that the city has put its mask on in the carnival period, and sometime "in between". When exactly is unknown, but what is known is the way it puts its mask on still today, transferring from generation to generation the tradition of masking and all that it entails.

Masked genetic code States, governments and the city have changed but the tradition has remained, so that Rijeka in the period of the Pust or the Mesopust, as it is called in the Croatian

Odgovoriti na pitanje u čemu je specifičnost riječkoga Karnevala znači reći – u slojevitosti nasljeđa i genetskome kodu, što u prijevodu znači da su riječki karnevalski dani oni dani koji u sebi sadrže točno dozirane sastojke autohtonosti i mnogih utjecaja kojima su Rijeka i njezino stanovništvo tijekom stoljeća bili podvrgnuti. By answering the question regarding the particularity of Rijeka Carnival we discover that it is the stratification of its heritage and genetic code which means that those Rijeka Carnival days are those days that include just the right ingredients of autochthonism and a number of outside influences to which Rijeka and its inhabitants have been subjected to.

Littoral, wears the carnival costume and dances and sings in it, competing in sports and parading until Ash-Wednesday. By answering the question regarding the particularity of Rijeka Carnival we discover that it is the stratification of its heritage and genetic code which means that those Rijeka Carnival days are those days that include just the right ingredients of autochthonism and a number of outside influences to which Rijeka and its inhabitants have been subjected to. And as Rijeka always takes what it likes, and gives everything back, over this period of seven centuries, it has connected the characteristics of European city carnivals, Mediterranean masked traditions perfectly and has added elements of Slavic folklore and genetic predisposition for life under a mask and in this way has created its own Carnival identity. One that is different from the others. And for this reason recognizable. Its recognisability has been created from year to year and we can read how it was brought together in a book about the history of the Rijeka Carnival written by Saša Dmitović. As without the past there is no present and no future, we will go back to the masked Rijeka as it once was, put the old Rijeka mask on and say that although masked balls have been held throughout the entire carnival period, and this period has always being connected to two holidays – that of the Three Kings and St. Anthony’s Day - the Carnival party in Rijeka has always experimented its culmination on the

i u njemu pleše, pjeva, sportski se nadmeće i paradira sve do Pepelnice ili Čiste srijede. Odgovoriti na pitanje u čemu je specifičnost riječkog karnevala znači reći – u slojevitosti nasljeđa i genetskome kodu, što u prijevodu znači da su riječki karnevalski dani oni dani koji u sebi sadrže točno dozirane sastojke autohtonosti i mnogih utjecaja kojima su Rijeka i njezino stanovništvo tijekom stoljeća bili podvrgnuti. A kako Rijeka uvijek uzima ono što joj se sviđa, a daje sve, kroz taj sedmostoljetni period fantastično je spojila karakteristike europskih građanskih karnevala, mediteranske maškarane tradicije, dodala elemente slavenskoga folklora i genetsku predispoziciju za život pod maskom, pa stvorila svoj karneval. Drugačiji od drugih. Samim tim i prepoznatljiv. Njegova se prepoznatljivost gradila iz godine u godinu, a kako se slagala možemo iščitati iz knjige o povijesti riječkog karnevala, autora Saše Dmitovića. Kako bez prošlosti nema niti sadašnjosti, ni budućnosti vratit ćemo se u nekadašnju maškaranu Rijeku i staviti ondašnju riječku masku pa reći – mada su se maskirani balovi priređivali tijekom čitavog pusnog razdoblja, a ono se oduvijek veže uz dva blagdana – Sv. Tri Kralja i Sv. Antona – karnevalsko je veselje u Rijeci svoju kulminaciju oduvijek doživljavalo posljednja tri dana prije Pepelnice ili Čiste srijede. Ono se u davna vremena, do 18. stoljeća, kada je Rijeka još bila opasana zidinama, a današnja Riva bila pod morem, odvijalo na ulicama Staroga grada. U zabavi su svi

last three days before Ash-Wednesday. In ancient times, up until the 18th century, when Rijeka was still surrounded by its walls, and today's Riva was still under the sea, the Carnival took place on the streets of the old part of the city. Everyone took part in the party and there were no spectators. People sang and threw flour, sweets, eggs, oranges and apples at each other. Real masked street fights happened. Masked dances for the common people were organized separately from the masked balls for noblemen and women. In Rijeka’s ancient Castle the most luxurious "noble ball” took place – the ball of the imperial captain. Masked dances were a favourite both amongst youngsters and adults too as they were a perfect opportunity for meeting boys and girls who were able to dance under the family's surveillance and many of whom ended up with a marriage and their parents' satisfaction. Moreover, to date nothing of importance has changed, only that the Carnival has moved from the old part of the city – Stari grad - to Rijeka's main promenade. There are no street fights anymore and love has continued to remain even today being the main originator of the mask in Rijeka.

Tradition won over repression Judging according to the many prohibitions and repressions to which the Rijeka Carnival has been exposed throughout its history, it has not been easy to keep this

Kako bez prošlosti nema niti sadašnjosti, ni budućnosti vratit ćemo se u nekadašnju maškaranu Rijeku i staviti ondašnju riječku masku pa reći – mada su se maskirani balovi priređivali tijekom čitavog pusnog razdoblja, a ono se oduvijek veže uz dva blagdana - Sv. Tri Kralja i Sv. Antona As without the past there is no present and no future, we will go back to the masked Rijeka as it once was, put the old Rijeka mask on and say that although masked balls have been held throughout the entire carnival period, and this period has always being connected to two holidays – that of the Three Kings and St. Anthony’s Day masked city’s atmosphere whilst preserving tradition. For example, during the 15th century, anyone wearing a mask could have been penalized with drastic sentences (50 libras, the amputation of a hand or a month in prison). Many priests also wore masks in Rijeka for a long time, in order to enjoy the carnival parties together with common people, incognito, until 1718 when finally, thanks to a bishop's decree, masking, especially for priests, was proclaimed a "devil's act”. But even this decree wasn’t able to stop the masked tradition. Nor did the laws of the former state that made life a living hell for carnival people. Made hell, but did not stop it, as masked dances maybe did not take place in the heart of the city, but Rijeka's surroundings breathed sudjelovali, gledatelja nije bilo. Plesalo se i pjevalo, gađalo brašnom, slatkišima, jajima, narančama i jabukama. Vodile su se prave maškarane ulične bitke. Posebno su bili organizirani plesovi pod maskama za građane, a posebno maskirani balovi za gospodu. U nekadašnjem riječkome Kaštelu priređivao se najraskošniji „noble bal" – bal kod carskoga kapetana. Maskirani su plesovi bili vrlo omiljeni, kako među mladima, tako i među starijima, jer su bili i idealna prilika za upoznavanje mladića i djevojaka koji su mogli plesati pod nadzorom obitelji, a mnoga su takva upoznavanja okrunjena brakom na zadovoljstvo roditelja. Dakle, do današnjih dana ništa se bitno promijenilo nije, samo se karneval iz Staroga grada preselio na glavnu riječku šetnicu, izostavljene su ulične bitke, a ljubav, kako onda, tako i danas, ostaje osnovni pokretač maske u Rijeci.

Tradicija pobijedila represiju Sudeći po mnogim zabranama i represijama kojima su riječki karnevalisti kroz povijest bili izloženi, nije bilo lako zadržati taj gradski maškarani štih i sačuvati tradiciju. Primjerice, tijekom 15. stoljeća drastičnim kaznama (kazna od 50 libara, odsijecanje ruke ili mjesec dana zatvora) je mogla biti kažnjena svaka osoba koja je maskom prekrila lice. Dugo su se vremena u Rijeci maskirali i mnogi svećenici, uživajući zajedno s pukom u karnevalskom veselju, dok napokon 1718. godine biskupskom uredbom maskiranje, posebno svećenika, nije proglašeno „đavolskim

djelom". Ali ni ta uredba nije uspjela „stati na rep" maškaranoj tradiciji. Baš kao ni zakoni bivše države koji su karnevalistima zagorčavali život. Zagorčavali, ali ne i zaustavili, jer možda se nekoliko desetljeća pod maskom nije plesalo u samom gradu, ali je zato okolica Rijeke disala karneval punim plućima. Dogodilo se ono što se uvijek dogodi kad represija zarati s tradicijom, a to je pobjeda tradicije, pa se posljednja gotovo tri desetljeća karneval vratio Rijeci. Vrata su još početkom šezedesetih godina otškrinuli Brgujski zvončari zazvonivši na Korzu, pa ih 1982. godine do polovice otvorili maškaroni iz Karnevalske grupe „Lako ćemo", Pehinarski feštari i Halubajski zvončari, a onda je gradska turistička zajednica poduzela završni i najvažniji korak otvorivši ih širom svim karnevalistima ne samo Rijeke i riječkoga prstena, već i cijelog svijeta. Iz godine u godinu na Korzu je sve više maškaranih skupina, sve više gledatelja što je Riječkom karnevalu 1995. godine donijelo članstvo u FECC-u (Uniji karnevalskih gradova Europe), prestižnu titulu trećeg karnevala na svijetu, kao i zapažene kritike u mnogim svjetskim medijima. Riječki je karneval definitivno riječka prepoznatljivost, brend, specifičnost. Svoju priču ispisuje stoljećima, svoju drugačijost njeguje stoljećima, svoju tradiciju nikad ne zanemaruje, a ipak se mijenja u skladu s vremenom u kojem živi. Ono što se nikad ne mijenja, što je bilo isto i u 13. i u 21. stoljeću je onaj osjećaj sreće i ponosa kad Primorac stavi masku tamo gdje joj je mjesto. Najprije na sebe, a onda i na svoj grad. Svoju maškaranu Rijeku.

completely with the lungs of the carnival. It came to pass as always happens when repression starts a war with tradition and traditions win, so that for almost the last three decades, the carnival has returned to Rijeka. The door was, even at the beginning of 1960s, slightly open thanks to the Bell ringers from Brgud ringing on the Korzo and was half opened by the masked Carnival group Lako ćemo, Pehlinarski feštari and the Halubje Bellringers and subsequently the city Tourist Board made the final and most important step and opened it completely to all carnival people not only from Rijeka and its surroundings but for people from around the world. As the years go by, more and more masked groups, and spectators can be seen on the Korzo leading the Rijeka Carnival to be awarded membership to the FECC (Federation of European Carnival Cities) in 1995, as well as the prestigious title of the third carnival in the world together with important critical acclaim in much of the world’s media. The Rijeka Carnival is definitely what Rijeka is recognised for, its brand and its particularity. It has been writing its history for centuries, cherishing its diversity for centuries, and has never ignored its tradition whilst at the same time changing in accordance with the times in which it is happening. What never changes however, what has remained the same from the 13th and the 21st century is the feeling of happiness and pride when someone from the Croatian Littoral puts his mask where it belongs. First on himself, then on his city. His masked Rijeka.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Ingrid Šestan Kučić Fotografije / Photos: Rino Gropuzzo

U sklopu Sveučilišta u Rijeci djeluje Znanstveno-tehnologijski park - jedinstvena ustanova u Hrvatskoj

There is an unique institution working as part of the University of Rijeka – The Science and Technology Park

Sinergija

znanosti i poduzetništva Synergy of science and entrepreneurship Znanstveno-tehnologijski park Sveučilišta u Rijeci d.o.o. (STeP Ri) jedinstvena je ustanova u Hrvatskoj i široj regiji. Osnovana je prije dvije godine s ciljem poticanja sinergije znanosti i poduzetništva na regionalnoj, nacionalnoj i međunarodnoj razini. STeP Ri (Science and Technology Park of the University of Rijeka) smjestio se u središtu Sveučilišnoga kampusa, a osnovan je na inicijativu Sveučilišta u Rijeci koju su podržali Poslovno inovacijski centar Hrvatske – BICRO, Grad Rijeka i Primorsko-goranska županija kao partneri. Njegova je misija stvoriti znanstveno-tehnologijsko i poslovno okruženje koje inspirira i potiče razvoj znanosti, inovativnosti, kreativnost i poduzetnički duh pružanjem odgovarajuće infrastrukture, stručnih servisa, savjetovanja i pristupa strateškoj mreži, dok su ciljevi STeP-a Ri inkubacija novonastalih tvrtki koje se temelje na znanju kao i zaštita novonastaloga intelektualnog vlasništva. Taj se proces

The Science and Technology Park of the University of Rijeka d.o.o. (STeP Ri) is a unique institution in Croatia and the wider region founded two years ago with the aim of stimulating the synergy of science and entrepreneurship on a regional, national and international level. STeP Ri (Science and Technology Park of the University of Rijeka) is located in the centre of University Campus and was founded on the initiative of the University of Rijeka which was supported by the Business and Innovation Centre of Croatia – BICRO, City of Rijeka and County of Primorje and Gorski kotar as partners. Its mission is to create a scientific, technological and business environment that inspires and stimulates the development of science, innovation, creativity and entrepreneurial mindset by providing adequate infrastructure, expert services, consultation and access to the strategic network, whilst the aims of the STeP Ri are the incubation

skraćeno opisuje izrazom transfer tehnologija (TT), a odvijat će se između Sveučilišta i gospodarskog sektora. Pojašnjavajući kako osnovne korake transfera tehnologije čine stvaranje i inkubacija novih tvrtki, razvoj novih proizvoda, modela, prototipova, dakle općenito novih tehnologija, licenciranje novih tehnologija u postojeće regionalne, nacionalne i međunarodne tvrtke, te povezivanje članova sveučilišne zajednice, poduzetnika i partnera na nacionalnoj i međunarodnoj razini, direktor STeP-a Ri Boris Golob navodi da će se ostvarenjem tih ciljeva male i srednje tvrtke približiti istraživačkim kapacitetima i high-tech laboratorijima na Sveučilištu, a znanstvenici će istodobno steći bolji uvid u potrebe i probleme realnoga, tržišno orijentiranog okruženja. Ono što ta ustanova nudi svojim stanarima je inkubacija poduzetnika, zaštita i transfer intelektualnoga vlasništva, te licenciranje i komercijalizacija novonastaloga intelektualnog vlasništva. Uz ova tri osnovna programa, stanarima poslovnog inkubatora STeP-a Ri, znanstvenoj zajednici i postojećim poduzećima na tržištu bit će ponuđene i specifične usluge i znanja vezana uz osmišljavanje novih proizvoda i usluga, unapređivanje postojećih proizvoda te inoviranje postojećih i stvaranje novih poslovnih modela. -Trenutno imamo petnaestak stanara koji se uglavnom nalaze u procesu predinkubacije. Ono što treba istaknuti je da pravo poslovanje STeP-a u ovom trenutku tek može započeti. To podrazumijeva odrađivanje onoga zbog čega je STeP osnovan, odnosno poslovno povezivanje i komercijalizacija znanstvenika. Namjera nam je da razvoj STeP-a krene u dva smjera. Dakle, zadatak nije samo komercijalizirati ideje koje dolaze sa Sveučilišta a znanje sa Sveučilišta plasirati na tržište, već i privući tvrtke, prvenstveno tehnološke, koje imaju potrebu za znanjima koja postoje i mogu se dobiti na Sveučilištu, najavljuje Golob. Dodajući kako će cijeli projekt razvoja STeP-a trajati pet godina, Golob navodi da povezivanje znanosti i tehnologije nije jedino čime se STeP bavi, jer dio svog rada ustanova je usmjerila i na popularizaciju znanosti, ali i edukaciju. Na tragu toga je osnovan i edukacijski centar STeP-a Ri u kojem se prezentiraju teme koje se smatra neophodnima za poboljšanje kvalitete provedbe svakodnevnih aktivnosti kao i povećanja produktivnosti u malim i srednjim poduzećima. Osim edukacijskih radionica redovito se održava i Sci Cafe kao i tribine “Čačkalica” čiji je smisao pokazati puteve koji mogu dovesti do uspjeha, potražiti nadahnuće kroz razgovor te pokloniti dužnu pažnju i poštovanje ljudima koji u svojim životima čine nešto dobro za sebe i za svoju okolinu.

of newly founded companies based on knowledge as well as the protection of newly founded intellectual ownership. This process is briefly described by the term technology transfer (TT) which will be carried out between the University and the economic sector. To explain how the main steps for technology transfer are the foundation and incubation of new companies, the development of new products, models, prototypes, and therefore new technologies in general, licensing new technologies into existing regional, national and international companies and connecting members of the university community, entrepreneurs and partners on both a national and international level, STeP Ri director, Boris Golob indicates that by accomplishing these objectives, small and medium companies will become closer to the research capacities and high-tech laboratories of the University, and scientists will, at the same time, acquire a better view of the needs and problems of the real, market oriented environment. What this institution offers to its tenants is the incubation of entrepreneurs, protection and transfer of intellectual ownership and licensing and the commercialization of newly founded intellectual ownership. Besides these three main programs, tenants of the business incubator of STeP Ri, scientific community together with existing companies on the market, will be offered particular services and knowledge connected to the creation of new products and services, the development of existing products and the innovation of existing and the creation of new business models. -At the moment we have around fifteen tenants who mainly find themselves in the process of pre-incubation. What should be pointed out is that the real business activity of STeP can only begin at this time. This includes the definition of why STeP was founded, namely, the business connection and commercialization of scientists. The intention is that STeP’s development moves in two directions. Therefore, the task is not just to commercialize ideas deriving from the University but to launch this knowledge on the market acquired at the University, but also to attract companies, especially technological ones, that need to acquire existing knowledge and who can obtain it at the University, announces Golob. Adding that the entire development project of STeP will last for five years, Golob says that connecting science and technology is not STeP’s only activity as the institute has directed part of its work to the popularization of science as well as to education. Based on that STeP Ri’s education centre was founded where all topics considered necessary for raising the quality of carrying out everyday tasks and for raising productivity in small and medium companies were presented, and besides educational workshops, Sci Cafe and "Čačkalica" tribunes take place on a regular basis and have the purpose of showing the ways to success, by finding inspiration through discussion and dedicating the necessary attention and respect to the people who, throughout their lives, have done something of value both for themselves and for the environment.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža Fotografije / Photos: Davor Žunić

Mala galerija riječke obitelji Bruketa The Bruketa Family from Rijeka’s Mala Galerija Gallery

Ambasador kulture

diljem svijeta

An Ambassador for culture throughout the world

Mala galerija Bruketa, 37 godina smještena na trasi turističke magistrale u riječkoj starogradskoj jezgri, najstarija je privatna galerija u Hrvatskoj. Originalna po svojoj ponudi, u većinu turističkih vodiča Europe, Amerike, Australije i Japana, ušla je s napomenom „preporučamo posjetiti“. Sadržaj njezina prostora na samo 20-ak četvornih metara, dokaz je latinske izreke “Omnia praeclara rara“ (Sve lijepo je rijetko). Svojom kontinuiranom djelatnošću proteklih godina doprinosila je prepoznavanju riječkoga identiteta ponudom vlastitih autohtonih suvenira poput Morčića, Karoline Riječke, unikatne umjetničke keramike i slika. Njena specifičnost upravo su unikatni predmeti koji potječu iz kućne radinosti svih članova obitelji; supružnika Vedrane, profesorice hrvatskog jezika i likovnog pedagoga Vladimira, te njihovih kćeri Vilene i Morane. Odnedavna je u posao uključen i najmlađi član, unuk

The Mala galerija Bruketa gallery, which for 37 years has been located on the main tourist road in Rijeka’s old city centre, is the oldest private gallery in Croatia. Original for its offer, it has been included in most of the tourist guides of Europe, America, Australia and Japan with the note “recommended”. The content of its space on just 20 square metres is proof of the Latin proverb ‘Omnia praeclara rara’ (All the best things are rare). With its continuous activity over the years it has contributed to the recognition of Rijeka’s identity by offering its own autochthonous souvenirs such as Morčić, Karolina Riječka, unique artistic ceramic objects and paintings. More specifically, it is the unique objects that originate from the home industry of all members of the family; wife Vedrana, professor of the Croatian language and her husband Vladimir, an art pedagogue, as well as their

Filip, koji se za stvaralačkog procesa provlači ateljeom, a ponegdje, sasvim slučajno, ostavi i svoj neizbrisivi trag. Talijanke i mnoge druge Europljanke koje se uvijek iznova vraćaju u ovu galeriju reći će da starija kći Morana ima zlatne ruke za izradu jedinstvenog nakita, Vedrana za lampe, baš kao i mlađa Vilena za izradu unikatnih keramičkih satova kakvi se ne mogu pronađi nigdje u svijetu, a čiji posve neobičan izgled svakodnevno privlači poglede znatiželjnih prolaznika i posjetitelja. Mala galerija nositelj je brojnih priznanja za kreaciju i realizaciju Riječkih suvenira, prepoznatljivih brandova Morčića i Karoline Riječke, nastalih kao rezultat suradnje sa Pomorskim muzejom grada i HNK Ivana pl. Zajca. Značaj Male galerije prepoznali su i Odjeli za kulturu Grada Rijeke i Primorsko- goranske županije dodijelivši njezinim vlasnicima priznanja "Izvorno Riječko" i "Izuzetna kvaliteta". Nazivi tih priznanja na najbolji mogući način oslikavaju i ovu umjetničku obitelj i galeriju u kojoj gotovo svaki predmet predstavlja način života njezinih vlasnika optimističnog daughters Vilena and Morana. Recently even the youngest member has been included in the business, their grandchild Filip, who passes through the atelier during the creation process and completely accidentally, leaves his indelible trace. The Italian women as well as many other European women who always returned to this gallery, will say that the older daughter, Morana, has golden hands which she uses to create this unique jewellery, Whilst Vedrana uses hers for the creation of lamps and the youngest daughter, Vilena for the creation of unique ceramic watches that cannot be found anywhere else in the world and whose completely unusual appearance attracts the views of curious passer-bys and visitors every day. The Mala galerija Gallery has been the winner of a number of acknowledgments for the creation and realization of Rijeka souvenirs, with recognizable brands, Morčić and Karolina Riječka being created as a result of their collaboration with the

Tajna gotovo četiri desetljeća opstojnosti Male galerije nedvojbeno je ljubav koju obitelj unosi u posao, jer vole i rade ono što zaista žele i znaju, a pozitivna energija se potom distribuira svakim pojedinim predmetom i to cijelim svijetom. The secret of the Mala galerija gallery’s almost four decades of existence is, without doubt, the love that the family brings into the business as they enjoy and do what they really want and know and their positive energy is then distributed with each individual object around the world. i vedrog pogleda na život. Svaki predmet ujedno priča i svoju priču, poput Morčića, koju posjetitelji mogu dobiti na 20-ak svjetskih jezika, među kojima i kineski, japanski, litvanski i grčki. Tajna gotovo četiri desetljeća opstojnosti Male galerije nedvojbeno je ljubav koju obitelj unosi u posao, jer vole i rade ono što zaista žele i znaju, a pozitivna energija se potom distribuira svakim pojedinim predmetom i to cijelim svijetom. "Nesebično smo radili, nismo se štedjeli, istraživali smo, obilazi izložbe u zemlji i diljem svijeta, te posjetiteljima pokušali ponuditi najbolje"- kazala nam je Vedrana, podsjetivši da je upravo u njihovoj radionici prije više od 20 godina izrađen suvenir morčića koji je u zlatarskom zanatu na tom prostoru prisutan više od 200 godina. Ako je brand nešto prepoznatljivo i specifično, onda je i Mala galerija nedvojbeno, ne samo riječki već i hrvatski brand s kojim se uistinu možemo ponositi, a obitelj Bruketa ambasadori kulture koji će Rijeci još više otvoriti vrata svijeta.

Rijeka Maritime Museum and the “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre. Its importance has even been recognized by the City of Rijeka and County of Primorje and Gorski kotar Department for Culture which awarded its owners the acknowledgment "Authentic from Rijeka" and “Excellent Quality”. The names of these acknowledgements reflect this artistic family in the best possible way and the gallery where almost every object represents its owners’ way of life and their optimistic and cheerful perspective. At the same time, every object tells its own story, like Morčić for example, that visitors can get in around 20 world languages amongst which are Chinese, Japanese, Lithuanian and Greek too. The secret of the Mala galerija gallery’s almost four decades of existence is, without doubt, the love that the family brings into the business as they enjoy and do what they really want and know and their positive energy is then distributed with each individual object around the world. “We have been working unselfishly, we did not spare ourselves, we have researched and visited exhibitions around Croatia and around the world and have tried to offer the best for our visitors" Vedrana tells us, reminding us that precisely in this workshop, more than 20 years ago, the Morčić souvenir was created, which has been present in the goldsmith's craftwork collection of that area for more than 200 years. If a brand is something recognizable and specific then the Mala galerija is, without doubt, not only Rijeka’s, but Croatia’s brand of excellence of which the Bruketa family can be really proud and which is an ambassador for culture that will open the doors of the world to Rijeka even more.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić Fotografije / Photos: Rino Gropuzzo

Knjižara je u gradu sve više, sve su veće i nude sve više Every day there are increasingly more bookstores, they are becoming larger and their offer is richer daily

Knjigama

je u Rijeci ugodno Books feel comfortable in Rijeka

Nakon što je predstavio svoje najnovije izdanje, urednik jedne od vodećih hrvatskih nakladničkih kuća, uživajući u mirisnoj aromi kave za jednim od mnogobrojnih stolova na Korzu, nije propustio napomenuti: „Lijepo je biti čovjek od knjige u Rijeci jer je Rijeka grad koji nudi gostoprimstvo svakoj knjižari koja u njemu traži svoj dom.“ Već i površna šetnja Korzom potvrđuje da je ovaj čovjek kojem su knjige sastavni i nezaobilazni dio života u pravu kad kaže da je Rijeka grad u kojem je knjigama ugodno. Već nekoliko godina trend otvaranja novih knjižarskih prostora u gradu ne posustaje, a u 2010. je dosegao vrhunac. Zasluga je to i dvaju novih svetišta tiskane riječi koja su na samom Korzu otvorile nakladničke kuće VBZ i Profil. Da, knjige su u Rijeci opet in. Svi putovi na Korzu vode do knjižara čije police jednostavno mame da se zakorači među njih. Šetajući zapadnom stranom Korza prema istoku, prve točke za prodaju knjiga dvije su VBZ-ove gotovo susjedne knjižare. Zanimljivo je da se jesenas jedna od njih uselila u dio prostora u kojem je donedavno bila kavana Filodrammatica kojoj je ostao prednji dio prostora. U tom prostoru, sad već gotovo redovito, održavaju se promocije knjiga pa možemo reći kako su se tu našle stopljene dvije strasti – ona za kofeinom i ona za knjigama. Preko puta izlogom privlači knjižara Edit, mahom nudeći naslove na talijanskom jeziku. Usporedno s Korzom, u ulici Dolac, već duže vrijeme obitava druga VBZ knjižara, nezaobilazno odredište za one koji su u potrazi za školskim udžbenicima. Glavna konkurencija im je knjižara Školske knjige u ulici Ignacija Henckea. Slijedimo li zov slova u Starom gradu, ni u kojem slučaju ne smijemo zaobići knjižaru Ribook u ulici Janeza Trdine. Kakva ulica, takva i knjižara – smještena u omanjem, ugodnom prostoru koje jednostavno poziva da se u njemu izgubite u potrazi za nekim dobrim naslovom. Potrudite li se saznati tko

After introducing his latest edition, the editor of one of the leading publishing houses in Croatia, sitting in one of the numerous tables on the Korzo, with the aroma of coffee wafting up from his cup, he did not restrain himself from saying: “It is nice to be occupied in the world of books in Rijeka this is the city that offers hospitality to any bookstore looking for home in Rijeka.” Even a brief walk along the Korzo, confirms that this person for whom books are a constituent and unavoidable part of his life, is right when he tells us that Rijeka is a town where books have a good feeling. For a number of years there has been a trend of opening new bookstores in the city which has never ceased and in 2010 it has reached its maximum. It is also thanks to two new sanctuaries of the published word which were opened on the Korzo by two large publishing houses - VBZ and Profil. Yes, in Rijeka books are in again. All the streets on the Korzo lead to bookstores whose shelves simply invite you to step between them. Walking along the western part of the Korzo towards the eastern part the first book selling points are the two VBZs, which are almost neighbouring. An interesting fact is that one of them moved this autumn into the newly created space pertaining to the Filodrammatica café bar, leaving the front part of the former area to the café bar. In that part, book presentations have almost become a regular occurrence, so it could be said that two passions are united here – the one for caffeine and the one for books. On the other side of the street, the shop window of the Edit bookstore attracts us by mostly offering titles in Italian. Parallel to the Korzo Street Dolac Street extends where you can find a bookstore that is a constant attraction for those looking for school books. Their main competition is the Školska knjiga bookstore located in Ignacio Hencke Street.

If we follow the call of the letters to the old part of the city, the Ribook bookstore in Janez Trdina Street is not to be missed. The street is like its bookstore – situated in a small, pleasant space whose atmosphere simply invites you to loose yourself in your search for a good book title. If we try to discover who visits this small temple of literature and if we are aware of how many new title presentations are carried out on a daily basis here, you can be sure that there is no lack of book lovers in Rijeka. Just a few steps forward and you will find yourself in Medulićeva Street surrounded by a series of houses where the task of diffusing the published word has been achieved by another smaller, but pleasant Svijet knjige bookstore.

sve posjećuje taj mali hram književnosti i koliko se promocija novih izdanja ovdje svakodnevno događa, bit će vam jasno da u Rijeci ljubitelja dobre knjige ne manjka. Samo nekoliko koraka naprijed i naći ćete se u Medulićevoj ulici, okruženi nizom kuća gdje zadatak širenja tiskane riječi uspješno obavlja još jedna nevelika, ali ugodna knjižara Svijeta knjige. Koliko je Stari grad sklon takvim sadržajima potvrđuje i jedna od dvije knjižare specijalizirane za prodaju vjerske literature - knjižara Verbum, smještena u Ulici Janeza Trdine. Savršena nadopuna je knjižara Kršćanske sadašnjosti, otvorena prije godinu-dvije dana u ulici Fiorella la Guardije, što zna svatko tko je ikad zavirio u njezin izlog. Nekoliko minuta hoda od nje, u Ciottinoj ulici, književnim je i inim radoznalcima na usluzi antikvarijat Mali neboder. Onaj tko traži bilo kakvu informaciju vezanu uz tiskarsku povijest grada, zagubljeni naslov koji bi rastumačio ovu ili onu riječku temu, nema boljeg mjesta od antikvarijata. Slično vrijedi i za antikvarijat Ex libris u Zajčevoj ulici. Osim izdanja koja su već prošla čitateljske ruke („knjige s iskustvom“), u Ex librisu se može posegnuti i za njihovim vlastitim izdanjima, tek izašlim iz tiskarskoga stroja. Na istočnom kraju Korza, dvokatna Profilova knjižara ne može proći nezamijećena. Ona je možda i najveće mjesto za prodaju knjiga u Rijeci i umjesto da je ovdje opisujemo – predlažemo da je posjetite. Profil se, međutim, nije ograničio samo na Korzo i prolaznike gradskim središtem već je svoje mjesto našao i u trgovačkoj meki na sušačkoj strani grada - Tower Centru. Trinaest riječkih knjižara, među kojima nekoliko tek nedavno otvorenih, znakom je da se knjiga u gradu na Rječini osjeća ugodno. Trinaest je za knjigu u Rijeci sretan broj.

How fond is the old part of the city of these kinds of contents is demonstrated by one of two bookstores, specialized in the sale of religious literature – the Verbum bookstore in Janez Trdina Street. Anyone who peers into the storefront of the Kršćanska Sadašnjost bookstore, opened a year or two ago in Fiorello la Guardia Street, knows that it is the perfect upgrade to the aforementioned bookstore. A few minutes walk from the Kršćanska Sadašnjost bookstore, in Ciotta Street, the Mali neboder antique shop offers its services to of literature lovers and the like. There is no better place for anyone looking for any kind of information related to the city’s publishing history, a lost title that would clarify this or that theme about Rijeka than this antique shop. The same is true for the Ex libris antique shop located in Zajčeva Street. Besides editions that have already passed through a number of readers’ hands, (“books with experience”) at Ex libris you can find their own publications, which still smell of printing ink. In the eastern part of the Korzo, the twofloor Profil bookstore does not go unnoticed. It is probably the largest place for book sales in Rijeka, but instead of describing it here - we suggest you visit it. However, Profil has not limited its activity just to the Korzo and to pedestrians passing through the city centre, but has established its place in the commercial centre in the Sušak’s part of the city - the Tower Centre. Thirteen bookstores in Rijeka amongst which a few have only recently opened, are a sign that books feels at home in the city on the Rječina River. Thirteen is a lucky number for books in Rijeka.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić Fotografije / Photos: Rino Gropuzzo

Otkriće Fragmenata mudrih izreka, najstarijeg riječkoga glagoljskog rukopisa, predstavljeno je na izložbi povodom 400. obljetnice dolaska kapucina u Hrvatsku An Exposure of Fragments of Wise Proverbs’, the oldest manuscript in Rijeka to be written in the Glagolitic alphabet is represented at the exhibition to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the Order of Friars Minor Capuchin’s arrival in Croatia

Glagoljaški

korijeni grada

Glagolitic city origins

Netko je jednom rekao da je Rijeka neobičan grad koji nikad ne prestaje iznenađivati. Upravo kad pomislite da ste o njemu saznali sve, on iznenadi novim vrijednim otkrićem, novim intrigantnim podatkom. Tijekom listopada 2010. godine, u sklopu izložbe "Od bitija kapucinskoga fragmenti", postavljene u riječkom Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskoga primorja i posvećene 400. obljetnici dolaska kapucina na hrvatsko tlo Rijeka je to još jedno dokazala. Počeci glagoljaštva započeli su u Rijeci o čemu svjedoči izgradnja prvog samostana toga crkvenog reda na području Hrvatske koji je 1610. godine izgrađen u dijelu grada zvanom Žabica. Rijeka je nukleus iz kojeg su se kapucini širili gradeći samostane u Zagrebu (1618.), Splitu (1691.), Osijeku (1703.) i Karlobagu (1710.). Među brojnim rukopisima, tiskanim knjigama, sakralnim i ostalim predmetima iz knjižnica i riznica riječkog i drugih kapucinskih samostana u Hrvatskoj koji govore o tom širenju, izložba je ponudila čak 40 glagoljaških rukopisa. Rukopise javnost ima priliku vidjeti po prvi puta nakon što su bili dostupni tek malom broju najupućenijih istraživača koji su ih pronašli skrivene unutar korica, hrptova i listova vrijednih knjiga. Riječ je o 14 tiskanih knjiga iz razdoblja od 16. do 18. stoljeća, u kojima je pronađeno 11 rukopisnih fragmenata i desetak razrezanih starih stranica (tzv. ostrižaka) glagoljskih liturgijskih kodeksa na pergameni, koji su najčešće završili kao ovitci tih knjiga. Someone once said that Rijeka is an unusual city which never ceases to surprise. At the moment you might think you have discovered everything there is to know about it, then it surprises you with a new and valuable finding, or some new and intriguing data. Throughout October 2010, as part of the Od bitija kapucinskog fragmenti exhibition at the Rijeka Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian Littoral and dedicated to the 400th anniversary of Order of Friars Minor Capuchin’s arrival in Croatia, Rijeka has proved it again.. The origins of glagolitics began in Rijeka which is demonstrated by the construction of the first monastery of that Order in Croatia, erected in 1610 in the part of town known as Žabica. Rijeka is a nucleus from which the Order of Friars Minor Capuchin expanded by building monasteries in Zagreb (1618), Split (1691), Osijek (1703) and Karlobag (1710). Among the numerous manuscripts, published books, sacred and other objects from libraries and a thesaurus of Rijeka and other Capuchin monasteries in Croatia which tell of this expansion, the exhibition offers up to 40 Glagolitic scripts. The Public will have the opportunity to see these scripts for the first time as up until now they have only been privy to a small number of the most instructed researchers who found them hidden even from themselves within the covers, the spine and in the sheets of valuable books. We are talking about 14 books published in the period from 16th to 18th century in which 11 manuscript fragments have been found together with around ten cut-out old pages (the so

Stručnjaci smatraju kako je glagoljanje u Rijeci prihvaćeno već krajem 9. ili početkom 10. stoljeća. Baš iz tog razloga ne možemo biti sigurni da već sutra nećemo pronaći neki rukopis iz vremena prije 13. stoljeća. According to experts, the Glagolitic alphabet started to be used in Rijeka at the end of 9th or at the beginning of 10th century. Because of this, can we be sure that even tomorrow we might reveal some new manuscript dating back to the period prior to the 13th century? Najstariji primjerak Svi ti glagoljaški rukopisi predstavljaju jedno izuzetno otkriće međutim jedan od njih se ipak izdvaja - Fragmenti mudrih izreka - koji potječe s početka druge polovice 13. stoljeća. To je najstariji glagoljski rukopis pronađen u Rijeci a ujedno i najstariji primjerak hrvatskoga glagoljskog prijevoda te biblijske knjige. Pronašla ga je znanstvena suradnica Staroslavenskog instituta, dr. sc. Anica Vlašić-Anić, u knjižnici riječkoga kapucinskog samostana. Do pronalaska Fragmenata, najstarijim dokazom korištenja glagoljice u Rijeci je smatran latinski prijevod jedne hrvatske isprave pisane 1371. godine. Obzirom da se Rijeka zemljopisno i kulturološki nalazi u srcu Kvarnera, najbogatijeg hrvatskog glagoljaškog područja, za očekivati je da otkriće Fragmenata mudrih izreka i ostalih glagoljskih rukopisa neće biti posljednje pronađeno u gradskom sjedištu kapucina. Međutim, ne smijemo zaboraviti ni Vrbnik, kojeg se, zbog impresivnog broja glagoljskih spomenika, s pravom naziva pravom kolijevkom glagoljaštva. Tu je i Baška gdje je pronađen važan spomenik hrvatske kulture - Bašćanska ploča ali i Novi Vinodolski, u kojem je nastao Vinodolski zakonik, najstariji pravni tekst pisan na hrvatskom jeziku. Mnoga su još mjesta koja svjedoče o postojanju glagoljanja poput Omišlja, Dobrinja, Valuna, Bribira, Bakra, Grobnika, Kastva, Veprinca, Lovrana, Mošćenica, Klane…

Riječka glagoljaška tradicija U Rijeci živi ista ona glagoljaška tradicija razgranata u njezinom okruženju, ostavljajući tragove koje i danas neprekidno otkrivamo. Stručnjaci smatraju kako je glagoljanje u Rijeci prihvaćeno već krajem 9. ili početkom 10. stoljeća, što znači istodobno kad i u riječkome okruženju. Baš iz tog razloga ne možemo biti sigurni da već sutra nećemo pronaći neki rukopis iz vremena prije 13. stoljeća. Uostalom, zaraza glagoljanjem tako je rano započela i traje još uvijek pa grad na Rječini nije učinila samo punovrijednom sastavnicom glagoljaškoga svijeta, nego – u jednoj fazi – i središtem glagoljaške priče. Bilo je to doba biskupa Šimuna Kožičića Benje (oko 1456.-1536.) koji je, uzmičući pred turskim navalama stigao u Rijeku, te u listopadu 1530. pokrenuo vlastitu tiskaru. Uz pomoć dva unajmljena tiskara te godine objavljuje dvije knjige, Psaltir i molitvenik Oficij Rimski.

called clippings) of Glagolitic liturgical codex on parchment which mostly ended up as the wraps of those books.

The oldest sample all these Glagolitic manuscripts and clippings represent an excellent discovery but one of them is particularly important the - Fragments of the Wise Proverbs - a Glagolitic manuscript originating from the beginning of the second half of 13th century. It is the oldest Glagolitic manuscript to be found in Rijeka and at the same time is the oldest sample of Croatian Glagolitic translation of this Bible. It was discovered by a scientific co-worker of the Ancient Slavic Institute, with a PhD in science, Anica Vlašić-Anić, in the booklet of Rijeka’s Capuchin Monastery. Until the discovery of the Fragments, the oldest proof of Glagolitic alphabet use in Rijeka was considered the Latin translation of a Croatian document written in 1371. As Rijeka is geographically and culturally located in the centre of Kvarner, the richest Croatian Glagolitic area, it is to be expected that discovery of Fragments of the Wise Proverbs and other Glagolitic manuscripts will not be the last of those found in the city seat of Capuchins. But Vrbnik should not be forgotten either as, thanks to the impressive number of Glagolitic monuments there, it is rightfully called the true cradle of Glagolitics. There are also examples of Baška, where the most important monument of Croatian culture - the Baška Tablet – was found and Novi Vinodolski where the Vinodol Statute, the oldest legal text written in Croatian language was written. There are also a number of other places which bear witness to the use of the Glagolitic alphabet in places such as Omišalj, Dobrinj, Valun, Bribir, Bakar, Grobnik, Kastav, Veprinac, Lovran, Mošćenice, Klana, etc

Rijeka’s glagolitic tradition in Rijeka, the same glagolitic tradition continues to live on, spread out within its surroundings leaving traces that we are constantly revealing even today. According to experts, the Glagolitic alphabet started to be used in Rijeka at the end of 9th or at the beginning of 10th century, which means at the same time that it started to be used within its

Benja je bio jedan od uzroka što je Rijeka u najnovije doba, preciznije od 1968., postala još jednim središtem priče o glagoljaštvu. U to se danas može uvjeriti svaki posjetitelj Sveučilišne knjižnice Rijeka, u kojoj se od 1968.godine može posjetiti stalna izložba glagoljice. Izložene su kopije glagoljskih zapisa i kamenih spomenika s područja Kvarnera i Istre, fotografska uvećanja dijelova zbornika i tekstova nazvanih lucidari, glagoljaški književni zapisi i pravni tekstovi, zapisi glagoljaških bratovština, zapisi na srednjovjekovnim freskama, te hrvatske tiskane knjige. Postav je obogaćen fotografijama krajolika na područjima na kojima se glagoljaštvo širilo i starih alata. Tematski autor izložbe je akademik Branko Fučić (znanjem i elanom nenadmašan, a u kulturnoj i široj javnosti omiljen, taj je stručnjak pronašao više od polovine hrvatskih glagoljskih zapisa), s njime i ugledna povjesničarka umjetnosti, dr. sc. Vanda Ekl. Postav potpisuje poznati riječki arhitekt Igor Emili, a kopije fresaka rad su akademskog slikara Eugena Kokota. Kao što to glagoljaškoj Rijeci i dolikuje, Sveučilišna knjižnica nije samo mjesto kopija, ona je ujedno i mjesto gdje su pohranjeni i originali. Za neke se zna, a neki od ostrižaka, skriveni u koricama starih knjiga Sveučilišne knjižnice, još uvijek čekaju da budu pronađeni. Baš kao što nam to pokazuje izložba povodom 400. obljetnice kapucina u Hrvatskoj, odgovore na pitanja kad će biti pronađeni i što će biti pronađeno nemoguće je dati unaprijed. Ostavimo iznenađenjima otvorena vrata i radujmo se Fragmentima mudrih izreka i ostalim izlošcima u Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskoga primorja, koji nam o Rijeci govore ono što do jučer o njoj nismo znali.

surroundings. Because of this, can we be sure that even tomorrow we might reveal some new manuscript dating back to the period prior to the 13th century. However, use of the Glagolitic alphabet is so ancient and continuous that it has made the city lying on the Rječina River not only a full member of the Glagolitic world, but – in a single phase - the centre of Glagolitic history too. It was the period of bishop Šimun Kožičić Benja (around 14561536) who on retreating from the Ottoman raids, opened his own printing house. With the help of two hired printers he published two books in the same year: Psaltery and the prayer book Oficij Rimski (Roman Office). Benja was one of the themes why Rijeka has recently become, to be more precise since 1968, another centre of the glagolitic alphabet history. Today, anyone who visits the Rijeka University Library can visit the permanent Glagolitic alphabet exhibition that has been exposed here since 1968. Copies of Glagolitic manuscripts and stone monuments from the area of Kvarner and Istria are exhibited, together with photographic enlargements of parts of almanacs and texts known as lucidari, Glagolitic literature notes and legal texts, notes of Glagolitic brotherhoods, notes on middle age frescoes, as well as Croatian published books. The collection is enriched by photos of landscapes where the Glagolitic alphabet was diffused and by photos of old utensils. The thematic author of the exhibition is Branko Fučić (unbeaten in his knowledge and enthusiasm, and a favourite amongst cultural circles and the public at large, this expert has discovered more than half of the Croatian Glagolitic notes) together with eminent art historian, PhD in science Vanda Ekl. The exhibition is endorsed by famous Rijeka architect, Igor Emili and copies of frescoes are the work of academic painter, Eugen Kokot. As befits Glagolitic Rijeka, the University Library is not only a place of copies, it is also where the originals are archived. Some are known whilst a number of clippings, hidden within the covers of old books in the University Library, are waiting to be uncovered. Precisely as this exhibition celebrates the 400th anniversary of the Capuchins in Croatia shows, it is impossible to answer what and when will be discovered in advance. So let's leave the door open for surprises and let’s enjoy the Fragments of Wise Proverbs’ as well as the other exhibits at the Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian Littoral which tell us about those things in Rijeka that we did not know previously.

Iz tiskare koja je djelovala unutar današnjega riječkog Starog grada, sljedeće godine stižu još četiri naslova: Misal hrvacki, Knjižice krsta, Od bitija redovničkoga knjižice, te Knjižice od žitija prvih rimskih arhijereov i cesarov. Nije na odmet znati da je ona prvo tiskano povijesno djelo pisano na hrvatskom jeziku.

From the printing house which operated within the area of today’s old part of the city of Rijeka, another four books will be published next year: Misal hrvacki, Knjižice krsta, Od bitija redovničkoga knjižice and Knjižice od žitija prvih rimskih arhijereov i cesarov. It is good to know that the last one is the first published historical work to be written in the Croatian language.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Andrea Marić Fotografije / Photos: Arhiva TZ Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board

Prosinac u Rijeci... ...ili kako se grad pretvara u najljepšu bajku December in Rijeka... ...or how the city becomes the most beautiful fairy tale

Nekome je Rijeka najljepša u proljeće, u Dane sv. Vida, netko je više voli u kasno ljeto ili pak u vrijeme karnevala, no sigurno se većina ipak najviše raduje prosincu u svom gradu. Tamo negdje uoči blagdana sv. Nikole kada Rijeka zasja u svjetlu tisuću lampica, a Korzo nalikuje mjestu iz najljepše božićne bajke. Upravo u to vrijeme svoj grad najviše vole mali Riječani, ali i oni veći koje upravo toplina blagdanske dekoracije tjera da na nekoliko dana zaborave svakodnevne brige.

Some people consider Rijeka at its most beautiful in the springtime, during the St. Vitus days festival, others prefer it in the late summer or during the carnival period, but the majority are undoubtedly excited about December in their city. Somewhere around the St Nicholas holiday, Rijeka is lit up by thousands of decorative lights and the Korzo looks like somewhere from the most beautiful Christmas tale. Young Rijeka citizens are those who love their city the most during this period. Older ones like it

Grad Rijeka, Turistička zajednica i gradski ugostitelji misle na svoje ostale sugrađane pa se na Badnjak priprema tradicionalna gastro-fešta a Riječane se časti plavom ribom, bakalarom na gulaš i toplim fritulama. The Municipality of Rijeka, the Rijeka Tourist Board and city caterers think about their fellow citizens so a traditional food party is offered to the citizens of Rijeka on Christmas Eve with blue fish and codfish prepared in goulash together with hot fritule. Ako se upravo u prosincu zateknete u Rijeci nećete požaliti jer u to vrijeme uvijek užurbano Korzo odijeva svoje svečano ruho. Nađe se tu mjesta za štandove s prigodnom ponudom darova za sv. Nikolu, a potom i Djeda Božićnjaka koji djecu razvesele pokojom slasticom. Ugura se tu i veseli vlakić koji danima prevozi mališane od jednoga na drugi kraj Korza, a sve u društvu omiljenog im lika čiji posjet potom s nestrpljenem očekuju u božićnoj ili novogodišnjoj noći. Nerijetko tih dana Korzom zamirišu i neodoljivi mirisi slasnih jela. Grad Rijeka, Turistička zajednica i gradski ugostitelji osim na djecu misle i na svoje ostale sugrađane pa se na Badnjak priprema tradicionalna gastro-fešta a Riječane se časti plavom ribom, bakalarom na gulaš i toplim fritulama. Tih prosinačkih dana u Rijeci, a i okolici, odvijaju se brojni prigodni programi, koncerti, predstave, izložbe… Za većinu

too, as the warmth of the holiday decorations makes them forget their everyday worries for a while. If you find yourselves in Rijeka in December, you will not regret it as the always busy Korzo, puts on its ceremonial clothing. Here stands with wonderful gift offers can be found, St Nicholas and Santa Claus cheering up the children with a sweet or two. Here even a cheerful train passes by transporting youngsters from one end of the Korzo to another, accompanied by their favourite cartoon and fairytale characters which they visit whilst impatiently looking forward to Christmas or New Year’s Eve. During those days on the Korzo the aromas of delicious foods can often be smelt. Besides the children, the Municipality of Rijeka, the Rijeka Tourist Board and city caterers think about their fellow citizens so a traditional food party is offered to the citizens of Rijeka on Christmas Eve with blue fish and codfish prepared in goulash together with hot fritule (traditional pastry). During those December days in Rijeka and the surrounding areas too, numerous fitting programs, concerts, shows and exhibitions are held …For the majority of them, we can say that they have already become part of the city advent tradition. You can find Christmas and New Year’s Eve’s concerts held at the “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre. Then the Božić je judi (People It’s Christmas) concert that has been organized for years by members of the Croatian Music Union from Rijeka and held at the St. Vitus Cathedral. The younger members will be cheered up by the Psihomodo Pop group concert at the

njih se može reći da su već dio adventske tradicije u gradu. Prije svega tu su božićni i novogodišnji koncerti u kazalištu Ivana pl. Zajca. Zatim “Božić je judi”, koncert kojeg već godinama organiziraju članovi Hrvatske glazbene unije iz Rijeke, a održava se u katedrali sv. Vida. One malo mlađe razveselit će koncert grupe “Psihomodo Pop” u Dvorani mladosti, a ljubitelje umjetnosti prosinačka izložba skulptura Jasne Bogdanović u Malom salonu. Nikako ne treba zaboraviti i sajam “Božić na mostu”, koji se održava na mostu na Rječini, a na kojem ne nedostaje pravog blagdanskoga ugođaja uz pjesmu, prave domaće kolače i prigodne ukrase kao i darove koje su izradili obrtnici. U blagdanski prosinac svojim se posebnim programom uključuje i Astronomski centar Rijeka. Njihov “Božić u Planetariju” zavoljet će i mali i veliki. Ekipa astronoma osmislila je ovaj popularno-znanstveni program koji predstavlja prikaz noćnoga neba na Božić u vrijeme Isusova rođenja uz astronomsko tumačenje priče o Betlehemskoj zvijezdi i priče o tri mudraca. Projekciju obogaćuje i prigodno okićen prostor i božićna glazba tako da je doživljaj uistinu nezaboravan. Posebnu blagdansku ponudu osmišljavaju i gradski hoteli, restorani, kafići, pubovi, barovi, oni na kopnu i oni na moru, tako da ne treba sumnjati da će Rijeka i ovog prosinca biti jedan od najveselijih gradova. A kako i priliči, sve će kulminirati na Staru godinu za čiji će ispraćaj na Korzu svirati “Let 3”, Neno Belan i “Fiumensi” te “My Buddy Moose”. Rijeka će u novu 2011. godinu uploviti uz žestoku svirku domaćih snaga. Gdje god je dočekali, neka Vam bude bolja, ljepša i sretnija od prethodne.

Youth Sports Hall and art lovers by the December exhibition of sculptures by artist Jasna Bogdanović in the Mali salon Gallery. The Božić na mostu (Christmas on the bridge) Fair should not be forgotten either. It is held on the bridge which crosses the Rječina River and is full of real holiday atmosphere accompanied by singing, real homemade pastries and fitting decorations and gifts manufactured by craftsmen. The Rijeka Astronomical Centre is also included in the holiday December with its special program. Their Božić u Planetariju (Christmas in the Planetarium) will delight visitors of all ages. A team of astronomers created this popular and scientific program which represents the view of the night sky at Christmas, at the time of Jesus’s birth, accompanied by an astronomical interpretation of the story about the Star of Bethlehem and the story of the Three Wise Men. The projection is enriched by the properly decorated place and Christmas music that make the experience truly unforgettable. The special holiday offer is also created by the city’s hotels, restaurants, café bars, pubs, and bars both on land and at sea, so Rijeka will undoubtedly be one of the most cheerful cities this December too. And befitting it, the culmination will take place on New Year's Eve for which celebrations on the Korzo will play Let 3, Neno Belan and Fiumensi as well as My Buddy Moose. Rijeka will sail into 2011 with an intense play by local groups. Wherever you find yourselves during the holiday period, we hope you have a better, more beautiful and happier year than the last one.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Lidija Šušak Fotografije / Photos: arhiva/archive

Najmodernija Ove je godine Rijeka dobila atletsku dvoranu This year Rijeka got its Athletics Hall

atletska dvorana u Hrvatskoj

The most modern athletics hall in Croatia Riječki atletičari svoj su dom dugo čekali, no kad su u svibnju ove godine po prvi puta ušli u novu atletsku dvoranu, za 500-tinjak članova Atletskog kluba Kvarner ispunjen je najljepši san. Bez obzira gledali je samo izvana ili u nju kročili, u jednom se svi slažu - najljepša je i najmodernija atletska dvorana u Hrvatskoj.

Rijeka’s athletes have waited for their home for a long time, but when they entered the new athletics hall for the first time in May this year, the most beautiful dream for around 500 members of the Kvarner Athletics Club came true. The hall is the most beautiful and most modern athletics hall in Croatia, a few of those who stepped inside it or just watched it from outside said.

Kantrida - sportski centar Rijeke

Kantrida - Rijeka’s sport centre

Za atletičare i sve Riječane

For athletes and all Rijeka inhabitants

Novom atletskom dvoranom Rijeka je dobila još jedan vrhunski opremljen sportski objekt, smješten u neposrednoj blizini stadiona Kantrida na kojem se također nalazi atletska staza. Kad se tome pridodaju Bazeni Kantrida i Sportsko-rekreacijski centar 3.maj , za Kantridu se s pravom može reći da je postala pravi riječki sportski centar. Gradnja dvorane započela je 2008. godine, trajala je oko godinu i pol dana dok je vrijednost radova iznosila oko 40 milijuna kuna. Polivalentna atletska sportska dvorana prvenstveno je namijenjena treninzima atletskih ekipa i organizaciji dvoranskih sportskih atletskih natjecanja. No, ne služi samo atletičarima već je na raspolaganju svim Riječanima koji u njezinim

With its new athletics hall, Rijeka got another excellently equipped sporting facility located very close to the Kantrida Stadium that also has athletics track. When we add that to the Kantrida Swimming Pools Complex and the 3.maj Sports and Recreational Centre - Kantrida has become Rijeka’s true sport centre. The construction of the hall began in 2008, it lasted for around year and a half and the total value of the work amounts to around 40 million Kunas. The polyvalent athletics sports hall is principally dedicated to the training of athletic teams and the organization of indoor sport athletics competitions. But it does not only serve athletes. It is at the disposal of all Rijeka

prostorima mogu organizirati ostale sportsko-rekreativne aktivnosti poput rukometa, košarke, tenisa, sportskog penjanja, aerobika, plesa i drugih natjecanja.

inhabitants for the organization of other sporting and recreational activities such as handball, basketball, tennis, sport climbing, aerobics, dance and other competitions.

Osam staza

Eight tracks

Umjetna stijena

Climbing wall

Luciano Sušanj

Na parteru dvorane ukupne površine dvije tisuće metara nalazi se osam trkaćih staza dužine 60 metara. Uređene su površine za skokove u dalj, discipline troskoka, površine za vježbanje bacačkih disciplina. U atletskoj dvorani mjesto za treniranje dobili su i penjači - u jednom dijelu dvorane smještena je umjetna stijena za penjanje. Visoka je 12 metara i ima 17 pravaca. To je inače najveća umjetna stijena u zatvorenim prostorima u Hrvatskoj. Iznad glavnoga partera smještene su dvije manje dvorane namijenjene vježbanju aerobika i plesa. U dvorani ima 330 sjedećih mjesta uz dodatnih 80 stajaćih. Otvorenjem atletske dvorane počelo je novo doba atletike u Rijeci. Naglo je porastao broj članova kluba, posebno najmlađih pa su trenutno najpopularnije atletske igraonice za najmlađe. U Rijeci treniraju atletičari i atletičarke iz cijele županije. Kroz Atletski klub Kvarner prošli su mnogi vrhunski atletičari, no jedno je ime ostalo je nedodirljivo. Sedamdesetih godina prošloga stoljeća bio je jedan od najboljih svjetskih 800-metraša. Njegovu kratku atletsku karijeru obilježile su dvije utrke. Na Europskom prvenstvu u Rimu 1974. osvojio je zlatnu medalju na 800 metara, istrčavši i danas svjetski vrijednih 1:44.07, a dvije godine kasnije je na Olimpijskim Igrama u Montrealu zauzeo šesto mjesto u istoj disciplini. Zlato na 800 metara osvojio je i na dvoranskom Europskom prvenstvu 1974., a odlične rezultate ostvario je i na 400 metara, disciplini u kojoj je, među ostalim, osvojio zlato na dvoranskom prvenstvu Europe 1973. Nalazi se na ljestvicama 10 najboljih hrvatskih trkača svih vremena u svim disciplinama od 200 do 1000 metara.

On the ground floor, with a total surface area of two thousand square metres, there are eight 60 metre-long race tracks. Surfaces for long jump, triple jump and those for practicing throwing disciplines have also been set up. even climbers have a place for training within the new athletics hall. In one part of the hall is a climbing wall. It is 12 metres high and has 17 routes. It is the largest indoor artificial rock face in Croatia. Above the main ground floor there are two smaller halls dedicated to aerobics and dancing. The hall has 330 seats and an additional 80 standing places. By opening the new athletics hall a new athletics age has begun in Rijeka. The number of club members has suddenly increased, especially the number of younger members as the club's hit are athletic playing rooms dedicated to younger members. In Rijeka athletes train s from throughout county. Many top athletes have been members of the Kvarner Athletics Club, but one name has remained untouchable. During the 1970s he was one of the greatest world runners at 800 metres. His short athletic career was marked by two races. In 1974, at the European Championships in Rome he won a gold medal at 800 metres, with a world record time, that is still unbeaten today of 1:44.07 and two years later at the Olympic Games in Montreal he won sixth place at the same distance. In 1974 he won a gold medal in the 800 metres in the European Indoor Championships too and he accomplished great results at 400 metres, a distance in which, amongst others, he won a gold medal at the European Indoor Championship in 1973. He is listed among the top 10 Croatian runners of all times and in all distances from 200 to 1000 metres.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich Fotografije / Photos: Nick Turina

Rijeka više od stotinu godina odgaja vaterpoliste

Rijeka has been training water-polo players for more than a century

Riječani žive vaterpolo

Rijeka inhabitants live water-polo

Vaterpolo klub Primorje. Klub je to koji je nedavno zlatnim slovima ispisao dan kada je davne 1908. godine pod imenom Victoria – Primorje zasjao i do danas se održao kao najstarije plivačko društvo u Hrvatskoj. Blistava povijest kluba koja je prolazila kroz četiri države, preživjela dvije okupacije i četiri puta mijenjala ime, zapamtila je mnoge velike trenutke svojega življenja. Iako Primorje nikada pod tim imenom nije osvojilo državni naslov, to je daleke 1938. godine uspjelo tek ondašnjoj Victoriji. Nebrojeno puta sasvim blizu velikih trofeja no uvijek je nedostajao završni zaveslaj koji bi ukrasio vaterpolske vitrine kluba najvećim sportskim uspjehom. Kao jedan od takvih u novijoj povijesti treba izdvojiti osvojeni hrvatski Kup iz 1996. i broncu iz 2004. sa Final four-a Eurolige u Budimpešti. Pravu renesansu klub proživljava u ljeto 2007. Nakon punog desetljeća u svoje matično gnijezdo vraća se peterostruki osvajač svjetskih i europskih odličja i kapetan hrvatske vaterpolske reprezentacije, Samir Barač. Kao grom odjeknula je vijest među nekadašnjim suigračima, redom reprezentativaca, koji potaknuti ''kapetanom'' slijede njegov primjer i svoju vjernost ponovno daju Primorju. I onda se dogodio 24. srpanj 2008., datum kojeg će upamtiti svaki onaj ljubitelj plivanja ili vaterpola. To je dan u kojem je Rijeka dobila možda i najljepši sportsko – rekreacijski kompleks bazena u Europi. San generacija i generacija te se godine napokon ispunio. Vaterpolo u Rijeci dobiva snažnu injekciju za još strelovitiji uspon. Na novu dozu dobrih vijesti nije trebalo dugo čekati. Redove Primorja pojačali su ove godine sve sami reprezentativci. Bijele riječke kapice nose Španjolac Xavier Garcia, te braća iz Mađarske Danijel i Denes Varga. Nekoliko sadašnjih i bivših reprezentativaca Hrvatske uz ostatak ekipe čine moćan stroj Primorja pred kojim će u sezoni 2010/2011 zadrhtati i mnogo poznatija imena ovogodišnje europske vaterpolske scene. Rijeka je tako dobila moćnu europsku ekipu. Dugo je vremena bilo potrebno da bi se na Bazenima Kantrida stvorio kolektiv čiji cilj je jedan jedini – da čim više popuni trofejnu salu ovoga kluba. U njima stoji jedno vjerojatno i najveće ime riječkog vaterpola, slavni vratar Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić, jedini riječki vaterpolist primljen u Kuću slavnih u vodenim sportovima. On će danas ponosno prošetati bazenom, nehotice bacajući pogled prema mjestu rezerviranom za novi trofej koji će s današnjim Primorjem zasigurno ugledati svjetlost dana. Želja? Ovogodišnja Euroliga...

The Primorje Water-Polo Club. This is the club that recently wrote with golden letters the day when back in 1908, under the name Victoria-Primorje, it was lit and preserved as the oldest swimming society in Croatia. The club’s bright past has passed through four states, survived two occupations and changed its name four times, recalls a number of important moments in its life. Even if the club, under the name Primorje, never won the state championship, it managed to accomplish Victoria back in 1928. It has been very close to the big trophies many times, but has always missed the final stroke that would decorate the water-polo club’s windows with the greatest sporting success. One of those in recent history could be the Croatian Cup, won in 1996 and a bronze medal won in 2004 in the Euroleague's Final Four in Budapest. The club experienced a true renaissance in the summer of 2007 Samir Barač, the captain of the Croatian water-polo team and winner of five European and world medals returned to his native club. The news spread as fast as lightning amongst his former team-mates, a series of national team players who, inspired by their “captain”, followed his example and dedicated their fidelity to Primorje once again. And then an event happened on 24th July 2008, a date that will be remembered by every swimming or waterpolo lover. It is the day when Rijeka got, perhaps the most beautiful, sports and recreational pool complex in Europe. The dream of many generations finally came true that year. Water-polo in Rijeka received an even stronger injection for even quicker success. They did not have to wait long for a new dose of good news. The Primorje team was strengthened this year by a number of national team players. The white Rijeka water-polo caps are now also worn by the Spaniard, Xavier Garcia as well as brothers Danijela and Denes Varga from Hungary. Both present and former Croatian National Team players together with the rest of the team have made a powerful Primorje machine in front of which, during the 2010/2011 season, even some of the more famous names of this year’s European water-polo scene will tremble. In this way Rijeka now has a powerful European team. A lot of time was necessary in order to create a team at the Bazeni Kantrida (Kantrida Pools) whose aim was only one – to fill the club's trophy room as much as possible. Among them stands probably the greatest name in Rijeka's water-polo, the famous goalkeeper Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić, the only water-polo player from Rijeka to be accepted at the House of famous players in water sports. Today he will proudly walk around the pool, unintentionally looking at the place reserved for a new trophy that will surely be seen there with today's Primorje team. Any request? This year’s Euroleague…

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich / Lidija Šušak Fotografije / Photos: Nick Turina

U Rijeci je boćanje način života

Playing bocce bowles is part of the Rijeka way of life

Igra mornara

koja je zaludila Mediteran

A sailors' game that has fascinated the Mediterranean

Boćanje u Hrvatskoj je in. Bilo kao narodna igra koju igraju sve generacije ili kao cijenjen sport. Kao igra rasprostranjeno je duž cijele jadranske obale, a najčešće svako mjesto ima svoja pravila i svoju verziju igre. Kao sport, boćanje je u Hrvatskoj jedan od najtrofejnijih i najmasovnijih sportova.

Rijeka živi boćanje Boćanje je u Rijeci posebna priča. Ovdje je ono puno više od sporta i igre, za Riječane boćanje je način života i tradicija koja se uči u obitelji od malih nogu. Svoje prvu boću većina je bacila na nekoj od lokalnih boćarija, jer u riječkoj regiji svako naselje ili mjesto ima svoj jog. Mjesto je to na kojem se okupljaju sve generacije mještana i dok jedni igraju, drugi promatraju i uče, treći navijaju. Mala opasnost od povreda i lakoća igre, boćanje su pretvorili u igru koju mogu igrati svi, od 7 pa do 107 godina. Fizičke predispozicije nisu presudne, do izražaja više dolazi igra koncentracije i živaca, pojedinca ili ekipe. Najmasovniji je to sport u Rijeci i okolici, u županiji ima 90 registriranih klubova u kojima igra 1500 boćara.

Razonoda mornara Prema povijesnim izvorima boćanje je još prije 2500 godina bilo jedna od glavnih zabavnih igara u starom Egiptu, a prema zapisima i Feničani i Grci igrali su nešto slično današnjem boćanju. Mnogo godina kasnije, boćanje se spominje kao razonoda talijanskih mornara koji su bacali balote ( jedan od naziva za boće) i kladili se u rum ili vino kako bi prekratili vrijeme. Igra se potom proširila na cijeli Mediteran gdje je i do danas najzastupljeniji sport. Najbrojniji i najuspješniji boćari danas dolaze iz Italije i Francuske, a po broju osvojenih medalja i Hrvatska spada u red boćarskih velesila. No, iako se igra u cijeloj Europi, ovaj sport još uvijek nije primljen u olimpijsku obitelj i ne igra se na Olimpijskim igrama.

Playing bocce bowls in Croatia is trendy. No matter whether it is played as a popular game across the generations or as a respectable sport. As a game it spread along the entire Adriatic coast, and more often than not every place has its own rules and its own version of the same game. As a sport, bocce bowls is the sport in Croatia with the most trophies won and with the highest number of people playing it.

Rijeka lives bocce bowls Playing bocce bowls represents a special story in Rijeka. It represents much more than a simple sport and game. For Rijeka’s inhabitants bocce bowls is a way of life and tradition acquainted within the family from childhood. Most people threw their first ball in one of the local bocce bowl courts, as in the Rijeka region, every neighbourhood has its own court. It is also the place where all locals gather and whilst some of them play the game, the others watch and learn, and others cheer. The slight danger of injuries and the easiness of play have made bocce a game that can be played by everyone, from 7 to 107 years of age. Physical predispositions are not crucial, the individual or team’s play of concentration and nerves is more important. It is the sport that is played by the greatest number of people in Rijeka and its surroundings and has 90 registered clubs within the County where 1,500 bocce players play.

Sailors’ entertainment according to historical sources, playing bocce was one of the main forms of entertainment in ancient Egypt some 2,500 years ago, and according to the inscriptions even the Phoenicians and Greeks played a game similar to today’s bocce. Many years later, bocce is mentioned as a form of entertainment used by Italian sailors who threw balote (one of the names for bowls) and bet on rum or wine in order to pass the time. The game then spread throughout the Mediterranean where it is the most played sport to date. The most numerous and

Jednostavna igra Prije boćališta na kakvima se igra i danas, boće su se igrale na seoskim putevima i nekorištenim zemljištima. Najprije se igralo drvenim bulinima koji su kasnije zamijenjeni metalnima. Boće se mogu igrati u dvoje ili u skupinama sa po dva ili četiri igrača. Cilj je igre boću dokotrljati ili dobaciti što bliže bulinu (maloj kuglici), a ponekad najbližu protivničku kuglu preciznim pogotkom izbiti, što je impresivan podvig i uspjeva samo najuvježbanijim igračima. Boduju se samo boće koje su bliže bulinu od protivničkih. Igra se sve dok jedna od ekipa ne postigne 13. punat (bod). Profesionalno boćanje kasnije se razgranalo u nekoliko disciplina te su se boćari, osim u klasičnoj disciplini, usavršavali i u preciznom i brzinskom izbijanju, te bližanju i izbijanju u krug. Osim pojedinačno, na natjecanjima se igra i u parovima, a najzanimljivija su štafetna natjecanja.

Rijeka je kolijevka hrvatskoga boćanja Kad se počelo “boćati” u našim krajevima nije poznato, oni najstariji boćari reći će da se boćalo oduvijek. No početkom 50-tih godina prošloga stoljeća boćanje se od razonode i društvene igre kojoj je osnovni cilj bio dobra zabava i druženje, razvija u natjecateljski sport. U Rijeci su u to vrijeme osnovani prvi boćarski klubovi, a istodobno je osnovan i Boćarski savez bivše države čije je središte bila Rijeka. Najstariji klubovi osnovani su upravo u Rijeci koja je i onda i danas slovila za rasadnik boćarskih talenata, a posebno je prepoznat i cijenjen rad s najmlađima. Hrvatska je sve te godine u vrhu svjetskoga boćanja, a u uspjeh svake generacije utkani su rezultati boćara poteklih iz riječkih klubova.

Dinko Beaković Riječanin Dinko Beaković najtrofejniji je hrvatski boćar; dvostruki je svjetski prvak, a vlasnik je i titule europskoga

successful bocce players today come from Italy and France, and according to the number of medals won, even Croatia belongs amongst these powerful bocce countries. Although, it is played in throughout Europe, this sport still hasn’t been accepted within the Olympic family and is not played at the Olympic Games.

A simple game Bocce bowls was played on rural roads and unused terrains in the past and now are played on bocce courts. Initially it was played using wooden bowls that were later replaced by metal ones. Bocce can be played by two players or in teams of two or four players. The aim of the game is to roll the bowl as close as possible to the jack (a smaller ball), and sometimes to knock the closest rival’s bowl with an accurate shot which is an impressive accomplishment and only the most trained players manage to do it. Only those bowls that are closest to the jack are counted. The game ends when one team reaches 13 points. Professional playing was later expanded to few specialities and bocce players, besides the classic specialties, have perfected themselves in the precision and the progressive as well as in combination. Besides individual competition, doubles contests are played as well as are the most interesting relays competitions.

Rijeka is the craddle of Croatian bocce There is no data as to when bocce started to be played in our area, but the oldest bocce players will say that bocce has been played since time immemorial. But at the beginning of 1950s, playing bocce developed, from a form of entertainment and a social game whose main objective was to provide good fun and something to do in a group, into a competitive sport. During that period, the first bocce clubs were founded in Rijeka as was the Bocce Association of the former state which

Kad se počelo “boćati” u našim krajevima nije poznato, oni najstariji boćari reći će da se boćalo oduvijek. There is no data as to when bocce started to be played in our area, but the oldest bocce players will say that bocce has been played since time immemorial.

was founded in the centre of Rijeka as well. The oldest clubs were founded in Rijeka where both in the past and even today they are considered to be the seed-plot of bocce talents, and work with the youngest players is especially appreciated and recognized. Croatia has for many years been on top of the world’s bocce league, and the success of every generation is marked by the results of bocce players from Rijeka’s clubs.

Dinko Beaković

prvaka. Beaković je hrvatskom boćanju donio i prvu svjetsku zlatnu medalju. Bilo je to 1993. godine u talijanskom Saluzzu i to u disciplini precizno izbijanje. Tijekom svoje igračke karijere osvojio je još 15- tak srebrnih i brončanih medalja sa svjetskih i europskih natjecanja a pobijedio je na 100-tinjak boćarskih turnira. Kao igrač, Dinko Beaković osvojio je sve, a danas je jednako uspješan izbornik hrvatske boćarske reprezentacije koja se sa svih velikih natjecanja vraća s medaljama. Na posljednjem natjecanju ove godine, na Europskom prvenstvu održanom u Tivtu, hrvatski su boćari pod vodstvom izbornika Dinka Beakovića osvojili pet medalja. Među najtrofejnijim riječkim boćarima je i Sando Gulja, s osvojenih devet svjetskih i europskih medalja od kojih je najvrednija ona iz 2003. svjetsko zlato u preciznom izbijanju. Sandro Gulja i danas je aktivan boćar.

Rijeka player, Dinko Beaković is the Croatian bocce player who has won most trophies; he has won the World Championship twice and is the holder of the title of European Champion as well. Beaković also won the first world gold medal in bocce. It took place in 1993 in Italian Saluzzo, in the tir precision discipline. During his career as a player he has won approximately 15 silver and bronze medals from world and European contests and he has won around 100 bocce tournaments. As a player, Dinko Beaković has won everything, and today is equally successful as the selector of the Croatian bocce national team that comes back from every contest with medals. At the European Championship that took place in Tivat, this year's latest contest, Croatian bocce players under the leadership of their selector Dinko Beaković, won five medals. Amongst the Rijeka players to have won the most trophies, we find Sandro Gulja he has also won nine world and European medals. His most valuable trophy is the one won in 2003 – a world gold in tir precision. Sandro Gulja is still today an active bocce player.

Boćanje nije samo muški sport

Bocce is not only men’s sport

Iako boćanje slovi za muški sport, sve je više žena strastvenih zaljubljenica u boćanje. Boćati su počele najprije rekreativno, no ubrzo su osnovale klubove, a danas se i službeno natječu u ligaškim natjecanjima. Riječke boćarice imale su uspjeha i na međunarodnim natjecanjima.

even though bocce bowls is considered a men’s sport, every day there are more and more women, who have become passionate bocce bowl lovers. They started playing bocce for recreation at first but soon founded clubs and today they formally compete in league competitions. Rijeka’s bocce players have also been

Ženski boćarski klub Pašac ove je godine osvojio treće mjesto u Europi na završnici klupskih prvakinja Europe. Posebno se u ženskom boćanju pamti 2000. godina kad su u Pamiersu u Francuskoj Nives Mladenić Martinaš i Ljubomira Čargonja postale svjetske prvakinje. Nives Martinaš potom je osvojila još četiri svjetske bronce, a posljednje dvije oko vrata je stavila prošlog mjeseca na Svjetskom prvenstvu u Francuskoj.

successful at international competitions. The Pašac Women’s Bocce Club won third place this year in Europe, in the final of the European Club Championship. 2000 is especially remembered in women’s bocce, when in Pamiers, in France, Nives Mladenić Martinaš and Ljubomira Čargonja won the World Championship. Nives Martinaš then won another four bronze medals, and the last two she put around her neck last month at the World Championship in France.

Rijeka domaćin boćarskih natjecanja

Rijeka hosts bocce contests

Rijeka je često bila domaćin međunarodnih boćarskih natjecanja. Zadnje je održano u rujnu ove godine kad su na Svjetskom prvenstvu boćara od 18 do 23 godine ponovno bile najuspješnije domaće mlade snage. Prije toga Rijeka se još u tri navrata pokazala vrsnim domaćinom najboljim boćarima svijeta i Europe. Prije četiri godine u Rijeci su se na Europskom prvenstvu okupili najbolji seniori. Domaćini svjetskih natjecanja Riječani su bili u dva navrata, juniorskog 1995. i seniorskog 1997. godine.

rijeka has often hosted international bocce contests. The last one took place in September 2010 when, at the World Bocce Players Championship for players of between 18 and 23 years of age, younger national players were once again the most successful players. Before that Rijeka was a great host another three times for the best bocce players in Europe and the world. The European Championship in Rijeka brought together the best seniors four years ago. Rijeka inhabitants have been hosts to world contests another two times, the Junior Championships in 1995 and the Senior in 1997.

Boćanje u školi Boćati se počinje sve ranije, u klubove se upisuju dječaci i djevojčice predškolske dobi. Rijeka će uskoro postati prvi grad u Hrvatskoj u kojem će se boćanje učiti u školi. Osnovna škola Pećine bit će i prva škola sa vlastitim boćalištem, a među slobodnim aktivnostima učenici će moći izabrati i boćanje. Jog je nastao od preuređenog vanjskog vrta, a u njegovu uređenju ujedinili se zaposlenici škole, roditelji i učenici.

Playing bocce in school youngsters start playing bocce at an early age. Pre-school aged boys and girls enrol at the bocce clubs. Rijeka will soon become the first city in Croatia where playing bocce will be included in the school curriculum. The Pećine Elementary School will be the first school to have its own bocce court, and during free activities, pupils will also be able to choose bocce. The court was created from the laid out outdoor garden and its arrangement was provided by a team of school employees, parents and pupils.

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events Prosinac / December 2010 31.12 - 01.01. Doček Nove godine Ispratite staru i dočekajte Novu godinu na riječkom Korzu. Uživajte u rock glazbi i hitovima grupa “Let 3”, Nene Belana i “Fiumensa” i “My Budddy Moose”. Pridružite se mnoštvu Riječana u zabavi koja traje cijelu noć.

31.12 - 01.01. Celebration of New Year’s Eve Say goodbye to the old and welcome the New Year on Rijeka’s Korzo. Enjoy the rock music and hits played by “Let 3”, Neno Belan and “Fiumensi” as well as by My Buddy Moose. Join the numerous Rijeka inhabitants for entertainment lasting throughout the night.

Siječanj / January 2011 29.01.

29.01.

Noć muzeja

The Night of Museums

Noć muzeja, ili noć kada muzeji otvaraju svoja vrata posjetiteljima do dugo u noć postala je omiljena manifestacija velikih i malih. Ovog puta odvija se 29. siječnja kada besplatno možete zavirite u muzejske riznice uz mnoštvo popratnih zanimljivih sadržaja.

The night of museums, or the night when museums open their doors to the visitors until the early hours of the morning has became a favourite event for both adults and youngsters. This time, it will take place on 29th January when you can steal a look at the museum's thesaurus with numerous accompanying interesting

21.01. Dvorana mladosti – početak karnevala Ovo je dan kojeg se željno isčekuje cijele godine. U Dvorani mladosti na Trsatu, 21. siječnja, ključeve grada preuzimaju maškare, a bira se i najljepša djevojka koja nosi titulu kraljice riječkog karnevala.

21.01. Youth Sports Hall – start of the Carnival This is a day that is awaited with great impatience all year., On 21st January, the city keys are taken over by masks at the Youth Sports Hall on Trsat and the Rijeka Carnival Queen Pageant also takes place.

22.01. Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca Hrvatska drama u koprodukciji s HKD Teatrom potpisat će dramu “Život lude” Ryûnosuke Akutagawe u režiji i dramatizaciji Davida Doiashvilija, priznatoga gruzijskog redatelja, a premijera je 22. siječnja 2011. u Hrvatskom narodnom kazalištu Ivana pl. Zajca.

21.01. “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre Croatian drama in a co-production with the Teatar Croatian Theatre Association will show the Ryunosuka Akutagawa's drama „Fool's Life“, directed and dramatized by David Doiashvili, the eminent Georgian director and the premiere will take place on 22nd January 2011 in the “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre.

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

Veljača / February 2011

26.02.

Dječja karnevalska povorka

The Children's Carnival Parade

Korzom šeću male maškarice jer se 26. veljače održava Dječja karnevalska povorka koja centar Rijeke pretvara u najljepšu bajku. Sudjeluju mališani dječjih vrtića i škola iz Rijeke i okolice.

Little masks walk along the Korzo because on the 26th February the Children’s Carnival Parade is taking place, transforming the centre of Rijeka in the most beautiful fairytale. Children from kindergartens and elementary schools from Rijeka and its surroundings take part in the Parade.

12.02. / 25.02 Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca Operna sezona riječkog HNK-a donosi na scenu tri premijeru Verdijeve opere „La forza del destino“/“Moć sudbine“ i to pod dirigentskim vodstvom Nade Matošević i u režiji Ozrena Prohića. Na programu je 12. veljače.

12.02. / 25.02 “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre Rijeka's Croatian National Theatre’s opera season brings Verdi’s opera”La forza del destino/The Force of Destiny” to the stage under the leadership of conductor, Nada Matošević and directed by Ozren Prohić. It will take place on 12th February.

Veliku priču o ljubavi u drami/tragikomediji „Euridice“/“Euridika“ američke spisateljice Sarah Ruhl u režiji Lawrenca Kiirua i produkciji Talijanske drame nikako ne propustite pogledati 25. veljače u riječkom kazalištu.

This great love story in the „Euridice/Euridika“ drama/tragicomedy written by American writer Sarah Ruhl and directed by Lawrenca Kiiru in the production of Italian drama must not be missed on 25th February in Rijeka’s theatre.

Ožujak / March 2011 06.03 Međunarodna karnevalska povorka Još prije sto godina Rijeka je živjela svoj karnevalski život intenzivnije od bilo kojeg grada u ovom dijelu Europe stoga i ne čudi da je Međunarodna karnevalska povorka na Korzu jedna od najpoznatijih na svijetu. Ovog puta održava se 6. ožujka stoga ne propustite ovaj nezaboravan događaj.

06.03 International Carnival Parade Rijeka was already living its carnival life more intensively than any other city in this part of Europe even a hundred years ago. So it is not strange that the International Carnival Parade on Korzo is one of the most famous in the world. This time it will take place on 6th March so do not miss this unforgettable experience.

12.03 Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca Filmsku satiru „Diskretni šarm buržoazije“ koja nemilosrdno kritizira licemjerje i monstruozne moralne zločine buržoaskih tendencija, u plesne će korake, na glazbu Marjana Nećaka, pretočiti „čarobnjak plesne scene“ Staša Zurovac. Dođite na premijeru U HNK Ivana pl. Zajca 12. ožujka 2011.

12.03 “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre The “Discrete Bourgeoisie Charm” film satire cruelly criticises hypocrisy and the monstrous moral crimes of bourgeoisie tendencies and “the magician of the dance scene” Staša Zurovac, transforms it into dance steps with music by Marjan Nećak. Come to the premiere on 12th March 2011 in the "Ivan pl. Zajc“Croatian National Theatre.

24.03.-31.03 Sajmovi u Dvorani mladosti U Dvorani mladosti na Trsatu sezona sajmova kreće s početkom proljeća. Od 24. ožujka održava se u isto vrijeme pet sajmova: Dom i tehnika, Zeleno i plavo, Lov i ribolov, Hrvatski obrtnici turizmu i Auto sajam. Između ostalog, pronaći ćete bogatu ponudu autohtonih proizvoda.

24.03.-31.03 Fairs at the Youth Sports Hall With the beginning of spring, the fair season also starts in the Youth Sports Hall on Trsat. From 24th March five fairs will be held at the same time: the Home and Technique fair, the Green and Blue fair, the Hunting and Fishing fair, the Croatian Craftsmen for Tourism and the Auto Fair. As well as this, you will find a rich offer of locally produced products.

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

Travanj / April 2011 08.04. / 13.04. Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca U programu manifestacije "KamovFest" Balet HNK Ivana pl. Zajca sudjelovat će po drugi put. “Blue Butterfly” bit će autorsko djelo članova riječkog Baleta.Većina glazbe u predstavi bit će autorske skladbe u gypsy swing stilu, a dijelovi predstave bit će inspirirani burnim životom francuskog gitarista i skladatelja Djanga Reinharda. Premijera je 8. travnja. S velikim nestrpljenjem očekuje se i praizvedba opere za velike i male „Šuma Striborova“ inspirirana istoimenim djelom poznate hrvatske spisateljice Ivane Brlić- Mažuranić. „Šuma Striborova“ ostvarit će se u koprodukciji sa zagrebačkim Muzičkim biennalom, a premijera je na programu 13. travnja u riječkom kazalištu. 11.04 - 15.04. Festival znanosti Devetu godinu za redom u Rijeci se odvija Festival znanosti. Od 11. do 15. travnja nudi se program prepun događanja u vidu radionica, predavanja, izložbi, predstavljanja, projekcija i debata. O popularnosti ove manifestacije dovoljno govori podatak da ju je u prvih osam godina posjetilo gotovo 45 tisuća građana.

08.04. / 13.04. “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre The “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre Ballet will participate in the “KamovFest” event program for the second time. “Blue Butterfly” will be the Rijeka Ballet dramatist’s work of art. Much of the music in the show will be author compositions in the Gypsy swing style and some parts of the show will be inspired by the turbulent life of Djang Reinhard, the French guitar player and composer. The premier is on 8th April. The premiere of the opera for both adults and young people is awaited with great impatience, "Stribor’s Forest", inspired by the book of the same name, written by Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, famous Croatian writer. “Stribor’s Forest” will be created in a co-production with Zagreb’s Musical Biennale and the premiere is on the program for 13th April at the Rijeka’s theatre. 11.04 - 15.04. Science Festival The Science Festival will take place in Rijeka for the ninth year in a row. From 11th until 15th April a rich program of events is offered such as workshops, lectures, exhibitions, presentations, projections and debates. Data from the last eight years of the event shows that it was visited by 45 thousand citizens, which is proof enough of its popularity.

Svibanj / May 2011 03.05 - 10.05. Festival malih scena Zahvaljujući Festivalu malih scena, koji se održava od 3. svibnja u Hrvatskom kulturnom domu na Sušaku, svakog prvog tjedna u svibnju Rijeka postaje kulturno središte Hrvatske koje okuplja poklonike kazališne umjetnosti. Ovaj festival međunarodnog karaktera promiče različitost i multikulturalnost. 03.05 - 10.05. Small Scenes Festival Thanks to the Small Scenes Festival that takes place on 3rd May in the Croatian Cultural Centre on Sušak - every first week in May, Rijeka becomes the Croatian cultural centre bringing together admirers of theatre art. This international festival promotes diversity and multiculturalism.

11.05 - 15.05. Bookfest Na Gatu Karoline riječke, od 11. do 15. svibnja, održat će se međunarodni sajam knjiga „Bookfest“. Uz sudjelovanje brojnih nakladnika i autora, posjetitelji mogu pronaći knjigu za sebe između nekoliko tisuća naslova.

11.05 - 15.05. Bookfest The international book fair known as "Bookfest" will take place from 11th until 15th May, on the Karolina riječka Pier. With the participation of numerous publishers and authors, visitors can find a book for themselves from amongst the several thousand titles.

14.05 / 21.05. Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca U riječkom kazalištu 14. svibnja pogledajte premijeru predstave Talijanske drame „Sessomatto/“Ludi seks“ kojoj je uporište glasoviti istoimeni film Dina Risija.

14.05 / 21.05. “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre On 14th May, come and see the premiere of the Italian drama show “Sesso matto/Crazy Sex” at Rijeka’s theatre based on the famous Dino Risi film of the same name.

Riječka Opera je na program uvrstila iznimno glazbeno djelo u koncertnom obliku. Riječ je o jednoj od najvažnjih Donizettijevih opera „Anni Boleni“ kojom će ravnati svjetski proslavljeni maestro Nikša Bareza. To vrhunsko djelo na programu je premijerno 21. svibnja u HNK Ivana pl. Zajca.

For the end of the season, Rijeka’s Opera has included eminent musical works in the program in the form of a concert. We are talking about one of the most important Donizetti operas under the name "Anni Boleni“ which will be conducted by world famous maestro, Nikša Bareza. The premiere of this excellent work is programmed for 21st May at the "Ivan pl. Zajc" Croatian National Theatre.

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

Hrvatsko Narodno Kazalište Ivan pl. Zajc / "Ivan pl. Zajc" Croatian National Theatre

Predstave koje morate pogledati

Shows you must see

Čak 12 premijernih predstava povezanih motivom sudbine kao individulane i kolektivne kategorije bit će izvedeno u riječkom Hrvatskom narodnom kazalištu Ivana pl. Zajca u sezoni 2010./2011. u kojoj se obilježava i 125. godina otvorenja zgrade riječkoga Kazališta.

during the season 2010/2011 when the 125th anniversary of the opening of Rijeka’s theatre building , at the “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre will be celebrated, 12 premiere shows connected to the theme of destiny as an individual and collective category will be performed.

Nakon tri već uprizorena naslova, „Opere za tri groša“, „Cirkusa Destetika“ i „Michelstaedtera“ čeka nas jednako atraktivan i uzbudljiv drugi dio sezone. Hrvatska drama u koprodukciji s HKD Teatrom potpisat će dramu „Život lude“ Ryûnosuke Akutagawe, u režiji i dramatizaciji Davida Doiashvilija, priznatoga gruzijskoga redatelja, a premijera će biti održana 22. siječnja 2011. Autobiografski je to skup reminiscencija, opservacija i ideja o čovjeku koji se oprašta sa životom. Japanski pisac Akutagawa široj je javnosti postao poznat nakon što su njegove priče „U lugu“ i „Rashômon“ doživjele maestralnu ekranizaciju u filmu slavnog Akire Kurosawe.

Film kao inspiracija talijanskoj drami i baletu Predstavi Talijanske drame „Sessomatto/“Ludi seks“ uporište je glasoviti istoimeni film Dina Risija (1973.) kao i baletnoj

Following the three titles “Opera for Three Pennies”, “Destetika Circus” and “Michelstaedter” that have already been seen, an equally attractive and exciting second part of the season is expected. Croatian drama in the co-production with the Teatar Croatian Theatre Association will show the Ryunosuke Akutagawa's drama „Fool's Life“, directed and dramatized by David Doiashvili, the eminent Georgian director and the premiere will take place on 22nd January 2011. This is an autobiographical collection of reminiscences, observations and ideas about a man bidding goodbye to his life. The Japanese writer, Akutagawa became famous to the wider public after his stories „In a Grove“ and „Rashômon“ were filmed by the famous Akira Kurosawa.

Film as inpiration for italian drama and ballet the Italian drama show “Sesso matto/Crazy Sex” is based on the famous Dino Risi (1973) film of the same name and the “Discrete Bourgeoisie Charm” ballet show was inspired by the genial film of the same name directed by Spanish director, Luis Buñuel. Moving Italian director, Paola Galassi, will be in charge of crazy sex and will find herself in front of a challenge of directing a variety of sexual events, chosen amongst the most bizarre, such as the Sicilian widow who marries the man who had ordered the assassination of her husband for revenge. This can be seen in the premier that will take place on 14th May 2011.

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

predstavi „Diskretni šarm buržoazije“ inspiriranoj istoimenim genijalnim filmom španjolskoga redatelja Luisa Buñuela. Ludim će se seksom baviti britka talijanska redateljica Paola Galassi koja će se naći pred izazovom režiranja različitih seksualnih manifestacija, odabranih i među onim najbizarnijim, poput sicilijanske udovice koja se iz osvete udaje za čovjeka koji je dao ubiti njezina muža, a što će se moći pogledati na premijeri koja će biti upriličena 14. svibnja 2011. Filmsku satiru „Diskretni šarm buržoazije“ koja nemilosrdno kritizira licemjerje i monstruozne moralne zločine buržoaskih tendencija, u plesne će korake, na glazbu Marjana Nećaka, pretočiti „čarobnjak plesne scene“ Staša Zurovac. Dođite na premijeru 12. ožujka 2011. „Šuma Striborova“ Ivane Brlić Mažuranić kao opera za velike i male Operna sezona riječkog HNK-a donosi na scenu tri premijere. Već u veljači gledat će se Verdijeva opera „La forza del destino/ Moć sudbine“ i to pod dirigentskim vodstvom Nade Matošević i u režiji Ozrena Prohića. U vodećim ulogama, ulozi Donne Leonore gledat ćemo dvije sjajne sopranistice, gostujuću Vedranu Šimić i solisticu riječke Opere Olgu Kaminsku. U kvalitetu nove riječke produkcije možete se uvjeriti 12. veljače 2011. S velikim nestrpljenjem očekuje se i praizvedba opere za velike i male „Šuma Striborova“ inspirirana istoimenim djelom Ivane Brlić-Mažuranić, djelom koje je intrigiralo, razbuđivalo maštu i interpretacije od njezina vremena do danas. Glazbu sklada mladi hrvatski kompozitor Ivan Josip Skender, za libreto i scenarij zaslužan je Ozren Prohić ujedno i redatelj, a dirigentica je maestra Nada Matošević. „Šuma Striborova“ bit će ostvarena u koprodukciji sa zagrebačkim Muzičkim biennalom, a premijera je na programu 13. travnja. Za kraj sezone, riječka Opera odlučila je na program uvrstiti iznimno glazbeno djelo u koncertnom obliku. Riječ je o jednoj od najvažnjih Donizettijevih opera „Anni Boleni“ kojom će ravnati svjetski proslavljeni maestro Nikša Bareza. To vrhunsko djelo na programu je premijerno 21. svibnja. U programu manifestacije "KamovFest", Balet HNK Ivana pl. Zajca sudjelovat će po drugi put. “Blue Butterfly” bit će autorsko djelo članova riječkoga Baleta.Većina glazbe u predstavi bit će autorske skladbe u ciganskom swing stilu, a dijelovi predstave bit će inspirirani burnim životom francuskoga gitarista i skladatelja, Djanga Reinharda. Premijera je 8. travnja 2011. Veliku priču o ljubavi u drami/tragikomediji „Euridice/Euridika“ američke spisateljice Sarah Ruhl u režiji Lawrenca Kiirua i produkciji Talijanske drame nikako ne propustite pogledati 25. veljače 2011.

The “Discrete Bourgeoisie Charm” film satire cruelly criticises hypocrisy and monstrous moral crimes of bourgeoisie tendencies and “the magician of the dance scene” Staša Zurovac, transforms it into dance steps with music by Marjan Nećak. Come to the premiere on 12th March 2011.

Ivana Brlić Mažuranić’s “Stribor’s Forest” as opera for both adults and young people the Rijeka Croatian National Theatre’s opera season brings three premiers to the stage. Already in February you will be able to see Verdi’s opera”La forza del destino/The Force of Destiny” under the leadership of conductor, Nada Matošević and directed by Ozren Prohić. Principal roles for Donna Leonora will be played by two excellent soprano singers, guest Vedrana Šimić and the Rijeka Opera's soloist, Olga Kaminska. You can ascertain the quality of the Rijeka production on 12th February 2011. The premiere of the opera for both adults and young people is expected with great impatience, "Stribor’s Forest", inspired by the book of the same name, written by Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, the book intrigued and awakened the imagination and interpretations from when it was written until the present day. The music is composed by young Croatian composer, Ivan Josip Skender, the director Ozren Prohić is in charge of the libretto and script and the conductor is maestro, Nada Matošević. “Stribor’s Forest” will be created in a co-production with Zagreb’s Musical Biennale and the premiere is on the program for 13th April. For the end of the season, Rijeka’s Opera has decided to include eminent musical works of art in in the program in the form of a concert. We are talking about one of the most important Donizetti operas called "Anni Boleni“ which will be conducted by world famous maestro, Nikša Bareza. The premiere of this excellent work of art is programmed for 21st May. The “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre Ballet will participate in the “KamovFest” event program for the second time. “Blue Butterfly” will be the Rijeka Ballet dramatist’s work of art. Much of the music in the show will be author compositions in the Gypsy swing style and some parts of the show will be inspired by the turbulent life of Djang Reinhard, French guitar player and composer. The premier is on 8th April 2011. The great love story of the „Euridice/Euridika“ drama/tragicomedy, written by American writer Sarah Ruhl and directed by Lawrenca Kiiru in the production of an Italian drama must not be missed on 25th February 2011.

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

Lipanj / June 2011 09.06. - 11.06. Regata Fiumanka Dani kada se more ispred Rijeke bijeli od jedara su od 9. do 11. lipnja u vrijeme održavanja međunarodne jedriličarske regate Fiumanke. Lanjski, rekordan broj sudionika dostigao je brojku od 191 posade što predstavlja svojevrsni izazov ovogodišnjoj, 12. po redu regati.

09.06. - 11.06. Fiumanka Regatta Days when the sea in front of Rijeka is all white because of the number of sails will this year take place from 9th until 11th June during the Fiumanka International Sailing Regatta. Last year’s record number of participants reached 191 crew members which represents a kind of challenge for this years' 12th regatta.

Festival elektronske glazbe Hartera U ostacima nekad slavne tvornice papira već se sedam godina sredinom lipnja organizira festival vrhunskih izvođača elektronske glazbe. Brojna, zvučna i svjetski poznata imena, dojmljive pozornice, rijeke mladih ljudi...čine ovaj festival nezaobilaznim događajem na karti regionalnih zbivanja. 13.06 - 15.06. Dani sv. Vida Dani sv. Vida ili Dani Grada Rijeke slave se od 13. do 15. lipnja. U slavu zaštitnika organiziraju se procesije, brojni koncerti, izložbe, predstave, te sportske manifestacije. U svakom kutku grada pronaći ćete zabavu za sebe.

Hartera Festival of Electronic Music Within the remains of the, once famous, paper factory, in mid June, for the seventh year in a row, a festival of excellent performers of electronic music is being organized. Numerous, eminent and world famous names, impressive stages, flows of young people...make this festival an unavoidable experience on the map of regional events. 13.06 - 15.06. St. Vitus Days St. Vitus Days or the Days of the City of Rijeka are celebrated from 13th until 15th June. Processions, numerous concerts, exhibitions and shows as well as sporting events are organized for the festival of the patron saint. In every corner of the city you will be able to find a way of entertainment for yourselves.

Riječke ljetne noći Riječke ljetne noći svake godine publici ponude nova iznenađenja, od spektakularnog otvaranja o kojem se još dugo govori, do bogatog programa predstava i koncerata koje se odvijaju na različitim, za kulturni program, nesvakidašnjim lokacijama grada.

Rijeka Summer Nights Every year Rijeka Summer Nights offers its public new surprises, from the spectacular opening about which people talk long afterwards, to a rich show and concert program that take place at different times, as far as the cultural programme is concerned and in unusual city locations.

Ljeto na Gradini - Trsat Riječko ljeto počinje i manifestacijom Ljeto na gradini koja se održava u jednom od najljepših gradskih ambijenata, na Trsatskoj gradini. Ova kulturno-zabavna manifestacija obiluje kvalitetnim koncertima, kazališnim predstavama i projekcijama filmova, te ljetne večeri čini još čarobnijima.

Summer at Gradina - Trsat Rijeka's summer begins with the Summer at Gradina event that takes place in one of the most beautiful city environments, at the Trsat Castle. This cultural and entertaining event is full of quality concerts, theatre shows and film projections and makes the summer nights even more magical.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Andrea Bralić Marić Fotografije / Photos: Medico Promotivni članak/PR article

Značajna obljetnica Poliklinike Medico, pokretača privatne zdravstvene skrbi u Hrvatskoj

An important anniversary for Medico Policlinic, the originator of private medical care in Croatia

Pola milijuna pregleda u 20 godina Half a Million Examinations in 20 years Pola milijuna pregleda u dvadeset godina! Upravo toliko obavila je Poliklinika Medico čiji stručni tim je već puna dva desetljeća na usluzi brojnim Riječanima i stanovnicima Primorsko-goranske i susjednih regija. Kad je 1990. godine započela s radom kao druga privatna zdravstvena ustanova u Hrvatskoj, vizija njezinog utemeljitelja, prim. dr. Milana Blaževića bila je da Medico postane mjestom na kojem će građani u najkraćem mogućem roku dobiti odgovarajuću zdravstvenu skrb. U tim počecima privatne prakse pa sve do danas Medico opravdava svoj slogan "U jednom danu, na jednome mjestu".

Half a million examinations in twenty years! This is the number of examinations carried out by Medico Policlinic which, with its team of experts, has been providing services for two whole decades for the numerous inhabitants of Rijeka and the County of Primorje and Gorski kotar as well as to those from neighbouring regions. When it began its work in 1990 as the second private medical institute in Croatia, the vision of its founder, Consultant Doctor of Medicine, Milan Blažević, was that the Medico would become a place where local inhabitants would receive appropriate medical care in shortest possible time. Both at the beginning of private practice and still today, Medico has justified its slogan “In a single day, in a single place”. In the year it celebrated its second birthday, the policlinic moved to a modern and attractive building in the heart of Rijeka, in Agatićeva Street. When we add that in this new medical complex 120 million kunas was invested, together

U godini u kojoj je slavila svoj drugi okrugli rođendan, poliklinika je preselila u modernu, atraktivnu zgradu u Agatićevoj ulici, u samom centru Rijeke. Kada se činjenici da je u novi zdravstveni kompleks uloženo 120 milijuna kuna pridoda iskustvo, stručnost i znanje pedesetak zaposlenika, najmodernija dijagnostička oprema i individualan pristup, onda se sa sigurnošću može računati na vrhunsku medicinsku uslugu. Od studenog 2007.godine vlasnik Poliklinike je Basler osiguranje Zagreb koje upravo na primjeru riječkog Medica gradi visoko kvalitetne standarde u zdravstvu. Novi Medico prostire se na tri kata, gdje se na 2.200 četvornih metara pacijentima pruža mogućnost obavljanja brojnih specijalističkih pregleda, jednostavnijih operativnih zahvata i jednodnevne hospitalizacije u okviru dnevne bolnice. Na prvom katu poliklinike nalaze se laboratorij i digitalna radiološka dijagnostika poput magnetske rezonance, CT-a, mamografa i rendgen uređaja. Valja naglasiti da su prilikom uređenja prostora u kojima se nalazi radiološka oprema poštovani svi uvjeti zaštite na neposrednu i širu okolinu, a kompletan sustav zaštite od zračenja je projektiran u Institutu Ruđer Bošković. Specijalističke ordinacije smještene su na drugom katu zgrade na kojem se nalaze okulistika, kardiologija s ergometrijom, dezintometrija, pulmologija, neurologija, otorinolaringologija, nefrologija, ortopedija i dermatologija s prostorima za laser. Tu su i dvije ginekološke ordinacije i ordinacija za ultrazvuk dojke koje su odvojene od ostalih ordinacija te imaju vlastitu čekaonicu kako bi se pacijenticama omogućila privatnost. Na trećem katu nalaze se ordinacije gastroenterologije i urologije te uprava poliklinike, a tu je i operacijski blok koji je namijenjen izvođenju minimalno invazivnih zahvata. Operacijski blok s dnevnom bolnicom prostire se na 170 četvornih metara, a uz dvije operacijske dvorane pacijentima je na raspolaganju i sedam kreveta čime im je omogućena hospitalizacija u trajanju do jednog dana. Poliklinika Medico stalno zapošljava 50 djelatnika od čega 15 liječnika, jednog inženjera medicinske biokemije, 12 medicinskih sestara, pet inženjera medicinske radiologije, četiri laboranata, te administrativno osoblje, a uz njih stalno surađuje s 30-ak liječnika raznih specijalnosti iz javnih i privatnih ustanova, što upotpunjuje pružene usluge.

with the experience, expertise and knowledge of around fifty employees, the most modern diagnostic equipment and an individual approach, then we can surely count on excellent medical service here. Since November 2007, the Policlinic’s owner has been the Basler osiguranje, Zagreb Insurance Company that precisely following Rijeka’s Medico example, continually builds high quality standards within its health care. The new Medico extends over three floors over the 2,200 square metres, the possibilities of numerous specialized examinations, simple operations and one-day hospitalization within the daily hospital have been provided for patients. On the policlinic’s first floor are the laboratory and digital radiology diagnostics unit, using equipment such as magnetic resonance imaging, CT, mammograms and X-ray generators. It is important to point out that during the furnishing of the area where the radiography equipment is located; the highest safety conditions for the closer and wider environment have been respected together with a completely safe system against radiation, designed by the Ruđer Bošković Institute. Specialized consulting rooms are located on the second floor of the building where we can find consulting rooms for ophthalmology, cardiology with ergometry, densinometry, pulmonology, neurology, otorhinolaryngology, nephrology, orthopaedics and dermatology with lasers. There are also two gynaecology consulting rooms here as well as a room for breast ultrasound that are separated from the other consulting rooms and which have their own waiting room in order to maintain patient privacy. On the third floor are the gastroenterology and urology consulting rooms as well as the policlinic’s administration. Here we can also find the surgical block dedicated to carrying out minimally invasive surgeries. The surgical block with its day hospital extends over 170 square metres, and besides the two operating rooms, patients have seven beds at their disposal providing one-day hospitalization. Medico Policlinic regularly employs 50 members of staff with 15 doctors, a medical biochemistry engineer, 12 nurses, five medical radiology engineers, 4 laboratory technicians and administrative personnel. Besides these employees, another 30 doctors with different specialisations regularly collaborate with Medico all coming from both public and private institutes thus completing the services provided.

Izložba / Exhibition

Piše / Written by: Lidija Šušak Fotografije / Photos: Ivo Matulić Vlado Kristl, Chat / Clone, 1999. © Madeleine Kristl, ulje na platnu/oil on canvas, 70 x 100 cm, fotografija/photo: Matthieu Frison

Vlado Kristl prešućivani genijalac i ekscentrik

an unrevealed genius and eccentric

Oko osamdeset likovnih radova istaknutoga hrvatskog umjetnika Vlade Kristla od kojih većina do sada nije predstavljana u Hrvatskoj, Riječani će moći vidjeti na izložbi koja se 16. prosinca ove godine otvara u Muzeju moderne i suvremene umjetnosti u Rijeci. Osim autorova slikarskog opusa i nezaobilaznih filmova, bit će izložene i njegove knjige, vizualna poezija, pisma, objekti, kolaži, fotografije i arhivska dokumentacija. Kristlova izložba s nestrpljenjem se iščekuju još od početka ove godine kada je proglašena najzanimljivijom izložbom u Hrvatskoj 2010. godine. Odbrojavanje se bliži kraju, sredina prosinca je tu, a s Vladom Kristlom ući ćemo i u 2011. godinu.

Po prvi puta u Hrvatskoj Riječani će imati tu privilegiju i prvi u Hrvatskoj moći uživati u velikoj izložbi ovog autora koja predstavlja Kristlov opus u vlasništvu Jelene, Madelene i Pepea Kristla, te Carole Regnier. Kristlova filmografija i bibliografija dobro je poznata za razliku od slikarstva, posebice nakon 1962. godine kada Kristl napušta Hrvatsku. Na riječkoj izložbi po prvi put bit će predstavljeni radovi iz njegova slikarskog opusa nastalog u razdoblju od 1959. do 2004. godine. Izložbu prati dvojezični katalog s tekstovima Mathisa Mühlinga, Thomasa Brandlmeiera i Marine Viculin.

Tko je Vlado Kristl Vlado Kristl rođen je 1923.godine u Zagrebu i jedan je od očeva hrvatske apstrakcije. Smatraju ga jednim od najsvestranijih i najslobodnijih hrvatskih umjetnika. Bio je slikar, pjesnik i sveučilišni profesor na Visokoj školi likovnih umjetnosti u Around eighty works of art by the eminent Croatian artist, Vlado Kristl, of which the majority have not been seen before, will be presented in Croatia giving inhabitants of Rijeka the possibility of enjoying them. The exhibition will open on 16th December at the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in Rijeka. Besides the author’s painting opus and his inevitable films, his books and visual poetry, letters, objects, collages, photographs and archive documentation will also be on show. Kristl’s exhibition has eagerly been awaited since the beginning of this year and has been proclaimed the most interesting exhibition in Croatia in 2010. The countdown is almost over, mid December is fast approaching; we will enter the New Year with Vlado Kristl.

For the first time in Croatia Rijeka’s inhabitants will have that privilege and for the first time in Croatia will be able to enjoy the large exhibition of this author representing Kristl’s opus owned by Jelena, Madeleine and Pepe Kristl as well as Carol Regnier. Kristl’s filmography and bibliography is well known compared to his paintings, especially after 1962 when Kristl abandoned Croatia. Works from his painting opus during the period from 1959 until 2004 will be presented for the first times at the Rijeka exhibition. The exhibition is accompanied by a bilingual catalogue and texts written by Mathis Mühling, Thomas Brandlmeier and Marina Viculin.

Vlado Kristl, Holderlin in Jena, In der Druckerei 1991. © Dieter Reifarth Vlado Kristl, Partei der Intelligenz, 1991. © Dieter Reifarth, ulje na platnu/oil on canvas, 100 x 70 cm, fotografija/photo: Dieter Reifarth

Hamburgu, te autor nagrađivanih crtanih filmova. Jedan je od osnivača avangardne umjetničke grupe EXAT 51. Istodobno ekscentrik, politički disident, pustolov i zagovornik slobode. Dok je u bivšoj državi bio često prešućivan, u Njemačkoj u kojoj je živio 40 godina, slavljen je i hvaljen kao veliki umjetnik.

Prva izložba u kokošinjcu Kristl je slikarstvo studirao na Akademiji likovnih umjetnosti u Zagrebu. U drugom svjetskom ratu pridružio se partizanima, no nakon rata postaje protivnik režima. Lutao je svijetom i živio u Europi i Čileu. U Zagreb se vraća krajem 50-tih i počinje raditi na crtanom filmu. No, ubrzo ponovno odlazi iz zemlje, u München gdje objavljuje nekoliko knjiga, a istovremeno se ne

prestaje baviti slikarstvom. 1963. iz Zagreba odlazi s obećanjem da se više nikada neće vratiti u taj grad, što se unatoč nagovorima prijatelja i ostvarilo. Umro je u Münchenu 2004. godine.

Najbolja juha, najbolja juha Život i umjetnički opus Vlade Kristla prije dvije godine našao se i na kazališnim daskama. Inspiriran životom umjetnika buntovnika, Rene Medvešek je režirao predstavu "Najbolja juha, najbolja juha". S obzirom da je sam Kristl u zbirci pjesama "Pet bijelih stepenica" Rijeku i Trsat opjevao kao prostore njegova najsretnijega razdoblja, mjesto posthumne retrospektive u MMSU-u ovog velikog europskog umjetnika, a kod nas još nedovoljno istraženog, opravdano je. Vlado Kristl, Julia, 1999. © Madeleine Kristl, ulje na platnu/oil on canvas, 100 x 70cm, fotografija /photo: Matthieu Frison

Who is Vlado Kristl Vlado Kristl was born in 1923 in Zagreb and is one of the creators of Croatian abstract. He is considered one of the most omniscient and liberal Croatian artists. He was a painter, poet and university professor at the Academy of Applied Arts in Hamburg and author of prize winning cartoons. One of the founders of the vanguard EXAT 51 artistic group and at the same time an eccentric, political dissident, adventurer and freedom pleader. Whilst he was often hidden in the former state, in Germany where he lived for 40 years, he was celebrated and lauded as a great artist.

First exhibition in the hen house kristl studied painting at the Academy of Applied Arts in Zagreb. In the Second World War he joined the Partisans army but after the war became an opponent of the regime. He wandered around the world and lived both in Europe and Chile. He came back to Zagreb at the end of 1950s and began working on cartoons. But soon after he left the country again and went to Munich where he published several books and at the same time continued his painting. In 1963 he left Zagreb promising never to return again to the city which, in spite of his friends’ persuasion, he accomplished. He died in Munich in 2004.

Best soup, best soup Vlado Kristl’s life and artistic opus became part of theatre two years ago. Inspired by the artist and rebel’s life, Rene Medvešek directed the show called Najbolja juha, najbolja juha (Best Soup, Best Soup). As Kristl described Rijeka and Trsat as locations of the happiest period of his life in his collection of poetry Pet bijelih stepenica (Five White Steps), the location of this posthumous retrospective in the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art for this great European artist about whom still not enough research has been done in Croatia, is more than justified.

Tako je nekad bilo / This is how it once was Zanimljivost koju rijetki znaju: u Rijeci možete vidjeti pojas za spašavanje s Titanika

Piše / Written by: Barbara Grabušić Fotografije / Photos: fotoarhive Mladena Urema i Vinka Antića/ Mladen Urem and Vinko Antic Archive

A curiosity which is rarely known: In Rijeka you can see the Life -jacket from Titanic

Nijemi svjedok najpoznatije katastrofe 20. stoljeća

A silent witness to the most famous catastrophe of 20th century Pojas može biti primjerice biljni, vegetacijski, crni ili onaj koji osigurava ženinu vjernost tzv. pojas nevinosti ili pak pojas za spašavanje, pomorcima poznat kao life-jacket. A upravo o tom potonjem pomagalu od nepropusnoga platna koje omogućuje održavanje na površini vode i sprječava utapljanje želimo pisati. Vjerovali ili ne, status vrijedne umjetnine kolekcionarskog značaja ima pojas za spašavanje koji se s iznimnom pažnjom čuva u riječkom Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju hrvatskoga primorja. Da ne bude zabune, ovdje nije riječ o bilo kakvom pojasu za spašavanje već jednom od pet postojećih nijemih svjedoka legendarne pomorske katastrofe 20. stoljeća – one o potonuću Titanica. Mogućnost da neki prsluk s Titanica stigne do Rijeke zapravo je vrlo realna jer je Carpathija pomorske kompanije Cunard Line bila prvi brod koji je 15. travnja 1912.

There are many types of belt. It can be used in regard to vegetation, a black belt in karate or the one that ensures women's fidelity - the so called chastity belt or a belt for saving people’s lives, known amongst seamen as a life-jacket. And is precisely about this one that we want to write about - made of an impermeable material allowing it to float on the water’s surface and preventing people from drowning. Believe it or not, the life-jacket that is being carefully guarded in the Rijeka Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian Littoral has the status of a valuable work of art and is an important collector’s piece. Not to be confusing, we are not talking about any lifejacket, but about one of the five existing silent witnesses of the legendary sea catastrophe of 20th century – the sinking of the Titanic. The possibility that a life-jacket from Titanic has arrived in Rijeka is actually very real as the Cunrad Line's Carpathia transatlantic passenger steamship was the first one that, on 15th April 1912 at 4 am, was at the scene of accident, and its final destination was Rijeka, namely, the Port of Rijeka from which the same ship, let's point out, had been departing for years on its trips to America. “Nobody knows anything about the destiny of the life-jackets after the Carpathia arrived in New York. But it is known that a large number of these life-jackets were just thrown on top of a pile on the deck and it probably remained there. There is a famous scene from the short film recorded on the Carpathia’s deck one day after it arrived in New York, where a few of the surviving sailors from the Titanic posed in their life-jackets, smiling in front of the cameras…” writes the author of the book “TITANIC, Croatians amongst the Century’s Catastrophe”, the famous

godine u četiri sata ujutro bilo na mjestu nesreće, a čije je konačno odredište bila Rijeka, odnosno riječka luka iz koje je, naglasimo, godinama polazio na svoja putovanja prema Americi. „O sudbini spasilačkih prsluka nakon dolaska Carpathije u New York ne zna se ništa. No zna se da je veliki broj tih prsluka bio nabacan na jednu hrpu na palubi i da je na brodu vjerojatno i ostao. Poznata je scena iz kratkog filma, snimljenog na palubi Carpathije dan nakon dolaska u New York, u kojoj nekoliko preživjelih mornara s Titanica pozira u prslucima, smješeći se pred kamerama....“ piše autor knjige „TITANIC Hrvati u katastrofi stoljeća“ poznati „titanikolog“ Slobodan Novković koji je u lipnju 1999. godine sa švicarskim kolegom Günterom Bälblerom, u sklopu pripreme za pisanje te knjige posjetio riječki Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskoga primorja.

Presudni susret Zahvaljujući tom posjetu odnosno susretu s kustosom riječkoga muzeja, Nikšom Mendešem, otkrivena je tajna muzejskoga predmeta pod inventarnim brojem 92. „Tamo smo na stolu pored nekoliko dokumenata, slika i kopija ugledali i spasilački prsluk. To je bilo to! Kao dugogodišnji „titanikolozi“ na prvi smo pogled shvatili da je to bio spasilački prsluk s Titanica“, prisjeća se Slobodan Novković koji dodaje: “Mješavinu šoka, iznenađenja i nevjerice koju sam u tom trenutku osjetio, uopće se ne može opisati. Spasilački prsluk nije više bio u najboljem stanju i poprilično je propao, ali je ležao tu pred nama... nakon devet deset ljeća zaborava.“ Detaljnim proučavanjem sličnosti s drugim, u svijetu pronađenim sačuvanim pojasevima s Titanica te angažiranjem Hermana Söldnera iz Njemačke koji je više godina proučavao događanja vezana uz Titanic i Carpathiju kao i popise posada obaju brodova, utvrđena je autentičnost riječkoga spasilačkog prsluka te otkrio identitet osobe koja ga je i donijela u Rijeku. Riječ je o pomorcu Josipu Caru, članu posade broda Carpathija koji je na povratku iz New Yorka u Rijeku, 6. travnja 1912. godine donio sa sobom i Titanicov pojas za spašavanje kojeg je, pak, mnogo godina kasnije darovao novoosnovanom Gradskom muzeju Sušak. Kao dio fundusa toga muzeja a potom i Muzeja Hrvatskoga primorja pojas je ostao sačuvan sve do danas. Štoviše, 2004. godine počela je i njegova restauracija u Hrvatskom restauratorskom zavodu a u sklopu radionica za tekstil završena godinu kasnije. Očima javnosti bio je pokazan tek jedanput i to prije restauracije, na izložbi „Hrvatska pomorska tradicija i procesi globalizacije“ Pomorskog i povijesnog muzeja Hrvatskoga primorja prigodom Međunarodnog dana muzeja. I za kraj, što reći nego vratiti se na početak i još jedanput istaknuti: Rijeka je prvi grad u kojem je Carpathija pristala nakon povratka iz New Yorka, prevozeći brodolomce s Titanica, a „preživjeli“ prsluk u Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskog primorja svjedok je ne samo legendarne katastrofe već i iznimne pomorske prošlosti grada na Rječini iz čije je luke za Ameriku u razdoblju od kraja 1903. do potkraj 1914. otplovilo 330.000 iseljenika.

titanicologist Slobodan Novković who, in June 1999, with his Swiss colleague, Günter Bälbler, during preparations for the writing of the same book, visited the Rijeka Maritime and Historical Museum of Croatian Littoral.

Crucial meeting Thanks to this visit or the meeting with the Rijeka Museum custodian, Nikša Mendeš, the secret of the museum object registered under the number 92 has been revealed "There, on the desk, by some documents, photos and copies we saw the life-jacket as well. That was it! As long-time titanicologists we realized at first sight that it was a life-jacket from the Titanic”, remembers Slobodan Novković and adds: “The mixture of shock, surprise and discredit I felt in that moment cannot be described. The life-jacket was no longer in a good state and it was rather damaged but it lay here in front of us... after nine decades of oblivion.” Through detailed examination of the similarities it has with other life-jackets from the Titanic that have been found and preserved around the world, and by involving Mr Herman Söldner from Germany who has been researching events connected to the Titanic and the Carpathia as well as the list of crew members on both ships, the authenticity of the Rijeka life-jacket has been defined and the identity of the person who brought it to Rijeka

has also been revealed. It was seaman Josip Car, a member of the crew on the Carpathia who, after coming back from New York to Rijeka, on 6th April 1912 brought the Titanic lifejacket back with himself and many years later donated it to the newly founded Sušak City Museum. The life-jacket has remained preserved until today as part of the holdings of that Museum and later of the Maritime Museum of the Croatian Littoral. In addition to this, in 2004, the Croatian Restoration Institute started its renovation and the textile workshops were finished the following year. The public were only able to see it once and that occurred before its restoration, within the Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian Littoral's exhibition in occasion of the International Museums Day known as the "Croatian Maritime Tradition and Globalization Processes". And finally, what else can we say, but to go back to the beginning and point out once more: Rijeka is the first city in which the Carpathia docked after its return from New York transporting castaways from the Titanic, and besides being a witness to this legendary catastrophe, the “surviving” life-jacket is situated in the Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian Littoral and has also been witness to the exceptional maritime past of the city on the Rječina River from whose port, from the end of 1903 until the end of 1914, some 330,000 emigrants sailed for America.

ZOOM

Ante Škrobonja

Jesu li sinonim za rock'n'roll električne gitare? One iste po kojima je prvi naraštaj riječkih rock-bukača, što se pojavio 60-tih, prozvan „električarima“? Odgovor je potvrdan. Samo, što bismo od tih gitara i njihovih ponosnih vlasnika danas mogli vidjeti da u rukama Ante Škrobonje nije bilo fotoaparata? Škrobonju su pionirskim rock-veselicama, umjesto zvučnih tonova, privukli vizualni tonovi koje je dobivao na foto-papiru. Aparat je uzeo u ruke 1958., dvije godine potom sudionik je rađanja prve hrvatske i jugoslavenske rock-grupe, VIS-a Uragani. S grupom je toliko srastao da ga glazbenici smatraju članom benda. Škrobonja ih neprekidno snima sljedećih desetak godina. I ne samo njih. Pred objektivom mu je prodefilirala cijela gradska scena 60-tih (Sonori, Kockari, Sirene, Sinovi mora i drugi), a snimke će s vremenom Are they a synonym for electric guitar's rock’n’roll? The same one according to which the first generation of Rijeka’s rock rabble-rousers appeared in 1960s and who were known as “electricians”? The answer is yes. But, what can be seen today from these guitars and their proud owners if in the hands of Ante Škrobonja there wasn’t a photographic camera? Rather than the musical tones, Škrobonja was attracted to the pioneer rock party songs by the visual tones he obtained on his photographic paper. He first held a camera back in 1958, two years later he became a part of the making of the new Croatian and Yugoslavian rock band, VIS Uragani. He completely grew alongside the group so that the musicians considered him a member of the band. Škrobonja continuously photographed them for the next ten years. And not only them. In front of his lens a review of all the city scenes of 1960s has passed (Sonori, Kockari, Sirene, Sinovi mora and others) and his photos have, over

Uragani (Dario i Mirko) Uragani (Dario and Mirko)

Prva sluĹžbena fotografija Uragana (sijeÄ?anj 1961.) The first Uragani's official photography (January, 1961)

Na jednoj od maturalnih zabava u kristalnoj dvorani hotela Kvarner, sredina šezdesetih At one of the graduation parties in the Hotel Kvarner's Kristalna dvorana, mid '60s

Prema procjenama 10.000 mladih na Korzu u prigodi Dana mladosti 1971. Koncert Uragana There was approx. 10 000 youths on Korzo celebrating the Dan mladosti (Youths Day) in 1971. Concert of the Uragani group

Dan mladosti 1971. Pred današnjim Poglavarstvom Grada plesalo se i na pozornici The Dan mladosti (Youths Day), 1971. In the front of today's Municipality building, people was dancing on the stage

Roland Šuster na pozornici Amaterskog kazališta V. C. Emin u pozadini Josip Forembacher. Publike je bilo ne samo u dvorani već i iza pozornice...rane šezdesete Roland Šuster at the amateur theatre „V.C.Emin“ stage. Josip Forembacherin the backstage. Audience not only in the hall but also behind the stage....early'60s

dobiti auru dojmljivog svjedočanstva toga razdoblja domaće popkulture. Škrobonji će rock-fotografija u međuvremenu ustupiti mjesto novim tematskim interesima, dobit će i prvu riječku titulu FIAP majstora fotografije. No, ne kaže se bez razloga: sve ljubavi dolaze i odlaze, osim – prvih... time, taken the aura of an impressive testimony of the national pop culture of that period. Rock photos have, in the meanwhile, conceded to Škrobonja a place within new thematic interests and provided him with the first Rijeka FIAP title of master of photography. Nevertheless, it is not said without a reason: all loves come and go, except for the first one…

Publika u Amaterskom kazalištu V. C. Emin natapirane frizure, kravate...rane šezdesete Audience at the amateur theatre „V.C.Emin“... '70s hairstyle, ties...early '60s

Na Trsatskoj kuli...omotnica za "Školjku" At the Trsat Castle...cover for the „Školjka“ LP

"Sedmice" (1970.)

Kockari na Trsatskoj kuli (1970.) "Kockari" at the Trsat Castle (1970.)

Slasni kutak / Tasty corner

Piše / Written by: Sandi Bujan Cvečić Fotografije / Photos: TZ Čavle - Čavle Tourist Board

Grobnička palenta kompirica Grobnik polenta kompirica (polenta with potatoes)

Težačko jelo

za blagdanski stol

A Farmer’s meal for the Holiday Table Oduvijek se u ovim našim krajevima živjelo skromno. Štedjelo se gdje god se moglo pa tako i na hrani. Jelo se uglavnom ono što je uzgojeno u vlastitim štalama i na vlastitim poljima. Jedno od tih jela je, nekad svakodnevna i obična, a danas tražena i cijenjena - palenta kompirica. 4

People have always lived modestly in this area. They saved money whenever they could and this was the same with food. They ate what they cultivated in their own barns and fields. One of these meals, that was normally eaten every day and which has today returned to favour is the polenta known as kompirica. 4

I danas se palenta kuha u domaćinstvima ovoga kraja, ali i u svim ugostiteljskim objektima koji drže do tradicije. Vjerojatno bi se palenta kuhala i češće, ali vremena je sve manje. Naime, prava palenta, kuha se oko 45 minuta Even today polenta is cooked in the houses of this area, as well as in all those catering facilities that care about local tradition. Polenta would probably be cooked more often, man’s free time isn’t as long as it once was. In fact, real polenta should be cooked for around 45 minutes Grobničko polje, smješteno u zaleđu Rijeke, uz cestu prema Zagrebu, obilovalo je nasadima kukuruza. Od kukuruza, kojeg se mljelo u mlinu na obližnjoj rijeci Rječini dobivala se muka - kukuruzno brašno, a od njega se pravila palenta. Najčešće, palenta s kuhanim krumpirom pa se zbog toga zvala - palenta kompirica. Naime, u ovim je krajevima pšenice bilo vrlo malo pa je palenta bila zamjena za kruh. Ispričala nam je to predsjednica Turističke zajednice Čavle, Gordana Gržetić. I danas se palenta kuha u domaćinstvima ovoga kraja, ali i u svim ugostiteljskim objektima koji drže do tradicije. Danas je bez tog jela nezamisliv obiteljski blagdanski stol na Grobnišćini, ali i šire. Kukuruz se još uvijek melje u Gašparovom mlinu u Martinovu Selu. Vjerojatno bi se palenta kuhala i češće, ali vremena je sve manje. Naime, prava palenta, kuha se oko 45 minuta, a današnje moderne i zaposlene žene za to teško nalaze vremena. Kako skuhati palentu? Krumpir stavite kuhati u slanu vodu u lonac - pinjatu i kuhajte dok se ne raspadne. Zatim dodajte kukuruzno brašno, toliko da ne bude gusto. Za pola kilograma gotove palente potrebno je oko 35 dag krumpira i 20 dag kukuruznoga brašna. Palenta se miješa s kuhačom – palentarom, 45 minuta na jakoj vatri, a gotova je kad se počne odvajati od palentara. Pred kraj se doda žlica putra, a gotova palenta se istrese na drveni tanjur - taruj. Palenta se u drugim krajevima Hrvatske naziva - žganci ili pura. Ponešto se razlikuju načini pripreme, ali i posluživanja. U ovim našim krajevima palenta se i danas jede uz

Grobnik field, situated in Rijeka’s hinterland, along the road to Zagreb, was once full of corn plantations. From the corn, which was milled at the mill located close by the Rječina River, the muka – corn flour was obtained. For the most part polenta was made with boiled potatoes and for this reason is knows as polenta kompirica (kompir – a regional name for potato). In fact, these areas suffered from the lack of wheat, so polenta was used instead of bread. The President of the Čavle Tourist Board, Gordana Gržetić, told us: Even today polenta is cooked in the houses of this area, as well as in all those catering facilities that care about local tradition. The family holiday table in the area of Grobnik and its surroundings is unimaginable without this dish. Corn is still milled at Gašpar’s mill in the Martinovo Selo village. Polenta would probably be cooked more often, man’s free time isn’t as long as it once was. In fact, real polenta should be cooked for around 45 minutes and today’s modern and business women scarcely find time for this task. How should we cook the polenta? Put some potatoes to boil in salted water in a pinjata (a regional name for saucepan) and boil them until they fall into pieces. Then add the corn flour, in such a quantity that does not make the mix too dense. For half a kilogram of prepared polenta you will need 350 g of potatoes and 200 g of corn flour. Mix the polenta with a palentar (regional name for ladle) for 45 minutes on over a strong flame and is ready when it begins to separate from the palentar. Before the end add a spoon of butter to the polenta and then tip it out onto a wooden plate or taruj (regional name for plate). In other parts of Croatia, polenta is called – žganci or pura. The ways of preparation differ slightly, as does the way of how it is served. In this area, polenta is also served with goulash, zarebrnik (best smoked pork meat) or smoked ham in wine, sauerkraut, jota (minestrone with beans and sauerkraut), repa (minestrone with beans and turnip) and beans, salted fish, fish stew or simply with the famous and much appreciated Grobnik sheep cheese. Back in 2007, aware of the need to protect traditions from being forgotten, the Municipality of Čavle and the

gulaš, zarebrnik ili pršut u vinu, kupus, jotu, repu i grah, slane ribe, brodet ili pak jednostavno uz poznati i cijenjeni grobnički ovčji sir. Svjesni nužnosti zaštite tradicije od zaborava, Turističke zajednice općina Čavle i Jelenje 2007. godine pokrenule su Festival palente i sira koji se održava svake godine krajem mjeseca lipnja, naizmjenice u dva najveća grobnička mjesta – Čavlima i Dražicama. Palenta se kuha na otvorenom u pinjati koja može primiti 750 litara, s velikim palentarima koji više sliče na velika vesla, a kad je gotova, istresa se na taruj promjera tri metra. Palentu kuha dvadesetak kuhara pod budnim okom glavne kuharice Grozdane Rak, a pripreme poput čišćenja krumpira počinju nekoliko dana ranije. Prve godine je za pripremu 500 kilograma palente kompirice utrošeno 350 kilograma krumpira i 200 kilograma kukuruznoga brašna iz Gašparova mlina. Palenta nikad nije ista. Ovisi kakvo je zrno kukuruza, kako se mljelo brašno, kakve je kvalitete krumpir, te hoće li biti slanija ili manje slana. Puno je malih sitnica koje mogu utjecati na kakvoću i kvalitetu. Zato i neizvjesnost pri njezinu kuhanju ima svoju draž. Festival palente i sira redovito privlači velik broj posjetitelja koji osim u palenti mogu uživati i u nezaobilaznom grobničkom siru uz hit pjesmu „Niš ni boje od palente kompirice“ koju izvodi domaća klapa Grobnik A ni kući se ne ide praznih ruku. Vrijedne ruke izradile su zanimljive suvenire. Pol kilograma muke (palente) iz Martinova Sela, kvarat grobničkoga sira i jedan palentar. To je dovoljno da ovaj gastronomski užitak ponovite i kod kuće. U slast!

Municipality of Jelenje Tourist Boards began the Polenta and Cheese Festival which is held every year at the end of June alternately in Čavle and Dražice - Grobnik's two largest villages. Polenta is cooked outdoors in a pinjata - pot which can hold up to 750 litres and is mixed with large palentari – ladles that look more like huge paddles, and when it is ready, it is is tipped out onto a large plate with radius of 3 metres. The polenta is cooked by around twenty chefs under the expert guidance of head chef, Grozdana Rak, whilst preparations including the peeling of potatoes begin a few days earlier. The first year, for 500 kilograms of polenta kompirica, 350 kilograms of potatoes and 200 kilograms of corn flour were used from Gašpar's mill. The polenta is never the same. It depends on the corn grain, the way the flour is milled, the quality of the potatoes and whether more or less salt will be used. There are a number of minor things that can affect the class and the quality. This is the reason its uncertainty holds such charm. The Polenta and Cheese Festival attracts a large number of visitors who, besides polenta, can also enjoy Grobnik’s unmissable cheese and hear the hit song “Niš ni boje od palente kompirice” (Nothing is better than polenta kompirica) performed by the local Grobnik klapa and will not leave empty-handed. Diligent hands have created interesting souvenirs. Half a kilogram of muka (polenta) from the village of Martinovo Selo, a quarter of Grobnik cheese and a palentar (ladle). All you will need to repeat this gastronomic experience at home too. Bon appétit!

Slasni kutak / Tasty corner

PiĹĄe / Written by: Silvia VidoviÄ&#x2021; Fotografije / Photos: Restoran Municipium

Restoran Municipium Municipium restaurant

Neke bi elegantna rimska slova ispisana na pročelju ove velebne zgrade prije asocirala na kakav prostor vezan uz prošlost, možda muzej ili galeriju, no nedajte se zavarati – iza njih se krije restoran. Restoran Municipium svoje ime i povijesni štih duguje istoimenoj palači iz 19. stoljeća u kojoj se nalazi, dok je njegova kulinarska ponuda sasvim suvremena - najfinije delicije (poglavito) domaće gastronomije, s naglaskom na širok izbor ribljih jela. Prateći gastronomske, ali i sezonske trendove, njegova ponuda se neprekidno mijenja i obnavlja, no uvijek je bazirana na kvalitetnim i svježim proizvodima na kakve se može naići u bogatoj lepezi naše riječke tržnice. A kako bi se sve to začinilo, tu je i kvalitetna vinska karta s naglaskom na vina istarskih vinara.

The elegant Roman letters written on the facade of this magnificent building might be associated with a space connected to the past, perhaps a museum or a gallery, but you shouldn’t be deluded – as behind these letters a restaurant is hidden. The Municipium Restaurant owes its name and historical atmosphere to the 19th century palace of the same name where it is situated, whilst its gastronomic offer is completely modern – the most delicious meals (especially) of local gastronomy with the accent on a wide choice of fish dishes. Following gastronomic as well as seasonal trends, its offer is constantly changing and updated but is always based on quality and fresh products that can be found widely on Rijeka's market. And in order to enhance all that, there is also an excellent wine list with the accent of the wines produced by Istrian vintners.

Iznutra je ambijent restorana Municipium neupadljiv, ali profinjen – njegov prozračan interijer stvoren korištenjem drva i lukova i ukrašen motivima Rijeke stvara ugodno i elegantno ozračje. Navedeno ga, uz činjenicu da se nalazi na pogodnoj, ambijentalnoj lokaciji u samome srcu grada Rijeke, na Trgu Riječke rezolucije, čini pravim mjestom za poslovne i formalne susrete. Kao važnu posebnost ovog restorana, njegov vlasnik Danko Borovina ističe i pristup prema gostu koji on njeguje, opisujući ga kao odnos utemeljen na povjerenju i iskrenosti. Nesumnjivo je da je upravo njegov poseban pristup, zajedno s jedinstvenim ambijentom i kvalitetom koju njeguje, zaslužan za to što je restoran Municipium već mnogo puta bio svrstan među 100 najboljih hrvatskih restorana, te što se već čitavo desetljeće (koliko i postoji) nalazi pri samom vrhu gastronomske ponude Rijeke i okolice.

Municipium's interior is unobtrusive but elegant, translucent created by the combination of wood and arches and decorated by Rijeka motives, creating a pleasant and elegant atmosphere. The above-mentioned facts and also that it is located in a particularly apt, environmental position, in the very heart of Rijeka, on Riječka rezolucija Square, making it the perfect place for business and formal meetings. Its owner, Danko Borovina, points out that the important particularity of this restaurant is its approach to its guests that it cherishes, describing it as a relationship based on trust and honesty. It is surely this special approach, together with the unique environment and quality that is so cherished, which is responsible for placing Municipium for so many times within 100 best Croatian restaurants as well as being placed at the top of the gastronomic offer for the past decade (the period of its existence) for Rijeka and its surroundings.

Za kraj, valja napomenuti da je restoran Municipium odnedavno svoju ponudu proširio i na usluge cateringa.

Finally, it is worth mentioning that the Municipium Restaurant has recently extended its offer with regard to catering services.

Slasni kutak / Tasty corner

Piše / Written by: Josipa Leko Šimić Fotografije / Photos: Sabrage Pub

Sabrage Pub

na Trsatu

Sabrage Pub on Trsat

Iako je otvoren prije samo devet godina, Sabrage pub na Trsatu ostavlja dojam puno dulje, desetljećima stvarane, tradicije. Riječ je o pubu u kojem je svaki detalj interijera pažljivo osmišljen i pomno biran. Smješten je točno preko puta Trsatskoga svetišta, u ulici Petra Zrinskog 2. Gosti koji rado borave u Sabrageu smatraju da je prednost pomno uređenog puba upravo u tom što je smješten izvan samog centra grada, daleko od gradske buke, no blizu svim važnim zbivanjima u gradu. I dok je nekim posjetiteljima ovaj pub najdraže odredište za ispijanje jutarnje kave, pa se tu okupljaju već od sedam ujutro kad se otvare vrata gostima, drugi najradije dolaze u večernjim satima. Svi oni imaju priliku uživati u pomno odabranim vrhunskim vinima, kubanskim koktelima te dobroj blues i jazz glazbi. Specifičnost ovog puba je u velikoj ponudi kubanskih koktela koje uglavnom nabavljaju iz Južne Amerike. Jednostavan i ujedno jedan od najpopularnijih koktela koji nosi naziv kuće, “Sabrage pub” lako je pripremiti budući da se kombiniraju tek tri sastojka. Potrebno je izmiksati sok od ananasa, sok od brusnice i Amaretto Disaronno i koktel je na stolu. -Osim privlačnih koktela u ponudi imamo oko devedeset sorti kvalitetnih hrvatskih, francuskih, čileanskih, portugalskih i argentinskih vina, a bogat je i izbor šampanjaca, otkriva vlasnik Sabrage puba, Ante Žeželj. On smatra kako goste privlače i kokteli od kave. Naravno, riječ je o kavi s različitim aromama koju nije jednostavno pronaći u

Although it was only opened nine years ago, the Sabrage pub on Trsat gives the impression of a long tradition created over decades. It is about a pub where every detail of the interior has been carefully imagined and accurately selected. It can be found in the front of the Trsat sanctuary, in 2, Petar Zrinski Street. Guests who like to spend time at the Sabrage consider the advantage of having a carefully furnished pub just outside the heart of the city centre, far from the city noise, but close to all the important events held in the city. And whilst this pub is a favourite destination for some visitors to have their morning coffee, gathering here as early as seven o'clock in the morning when the doors are opened for guests, others prefer to come during the evening hours. All of them have the chance of enjoying excellent and carefully selected wines, Cuban cocktails as well as good blues and jazz music. The specificity of this pub is in the large offer of Cuban cocktails which are mainly supplied from South America. One of these is simple to make and at the same time one of the most famous cocktails, named after the pub, the “Sabrage pub”, as there are only three ingredients needed to prepare it. Pineapple juice, cranberry juice and Amaretto Disaronno that should be mixed together and viola - the cocktail is served. -Besides attractive cocktails we also offer around ninety kinds of fine Croatian, French, Chilean, Portuguese and Argentinean wines and the choice of champagnes is also rich, Ante Žeželj, the owner of the Sabrage pub reveals.

gradu na Rječini. Ovdje je moguće dobiti kavu s dodatkom lješnjaka, čokolade ili kakaa i nekih drugih aroma. Osim kave i aromatičnih dodataka, glavni sastojak kave s aromom je frozen ili hladna pjena koja se stavlja na sam vrh toplo-hladnog napitka. Može se zaključiti kako je cijela koncepcija Sabrage puba temeljena na vrhunskim vinima, koktelima i dobroj glazbi. Naime, svakoga petka goste uz solo gitaru, trubu i gonge zabavlja kućni band “Duo Acoustic” dok se nekoliko puta mjesečno, uglavnom subotom, u ovom pubu predstavljaju novi izvođači. Na pomolu je i suradnja s eminentnim svjetskim gitaristom Damirom Halilićem Halom, a za pomno odabran glazbeni program ovog puba zadužen je Damjan Vasiljević. -U skorije vrijeme u pubu planiramo organizirati Blues festival i house partye, kaže Žeželj kojem je u planu i organizacija privatnih zabava zatvorenog tipa. U Sabrageu često organiziramo prezentacije kvalitetnih vina, a u ponudi imamo i catering. Program je tijekom cijele godine identičan. Najčešći gosti Sabrage puba su Riječani i Zagrepčani, dok strani turisti nešto rjeđe zalaze u ovaj ugostiteljski objekt. Oni, kaže Žeželj imaju svoju rutu koja trsatskim ugostiteljima i ne ide na ruku. Turisti uglavnom iziđu iz autobusa vidjeti Trsatsko svetište i gradinu te se odmah, bez zadržavanja vraćaju natrag. Vodiči čini se imaju svoju šihtu koja za ugostitelje, koji imaju što ponuditi i nije najidealnija. -Ovdje imamo puno mogućnosti, a turisti imaju što i vidjeti. Mi smo za njih spremni organizirati prezentacije vina, razne domjenke, ali i manifestacije poput Dana francuskih ili hrvatskih vina. Tematske manifestacije mogu se organizirati za različite grupe turista, no njih treba dovesti, kaže Žeželj objašnjavajući kako su za takvu vrstu promocije zainteresirani i Istarski vinari. Nažalost, od šest tisuća turista, koliko ih godišnje prođe kroz Trsat, beznačajan broj se nešto duže zadržava na području koje ima potencijala za još veću turističku ponudu. Inače, Sabrage pub radi od sedam do dva sata poslije ponoći, a može primiti oko osamdeset gostiju. Svi koji jednom dođu vraćaju se na ovo odredište.

According to him, guests are attracted by coffee cocktails too. Of course, here we are talking about coffee with different aromas that are not easily found in the city on the Rječina River. It is possible to have a coffee with a walnut, chocolate or cocoa flavour as well as with a number of other flavours. Besides coffee and aromatic additives, the main ingredient in the aroma coffees is the frozen or cold foam which goes on the top of the hot-cold beverage. It can be concluded that the entire concept of the Sabrage pub is based on excellent wines, cocktails and good music. In fact, every Friday, guests are entertained by the “Duo Acoustic” house band with solo guitar, trumpet and gongs, whilst several times a month, mainly on Saturdays, new performers are having their time in the pub. Even a collaboration with eminent world guitar player, Damir Halilić Hal has been planned whilst Damjan Vasiljević is in charge of the carefully chosen music program here. -In the near future we plan to organize a Blues Festival and house parties in the pub, says Žeželj who plans to organize private closed-door parties as well. At Sabrage we often organize presentations of quality wines and offer a catering service as well. The program remains unchanged throughout the year. The most frequent guests to the Sabrage pub are citizens from Rijeka and Zagreb, whilst to date foreign tourists rarely come to this catering facility. The reason for this, says Žeželj, is that they already have their own itineraries that does not usually include Trsat caterers. Tourists mainly go out by bus to visit the Trsat Sanctuary and Castle and then immediately return to where they came from without taking the time to stop. It would appear that tourist guides have their own itineraries which are not the most ideal for caterers who also have something to offer. -Here we have a number of possibilities, and tourists have plenty of things to see. We are ready to organize wine presentations, a variety of banquets, as well as events such as French Days or Croatian Wines for them. Topical events can also be organized for the various tourist groups, but they need to be brought here, says Žeželj informing us that even Istrian wine producers would be interested in this kind of promotion. Unfortunately, of the six thousand tourists that visit Trsat annually, an insignificant number stays any length of time in an area that has a potential for an even greater tourist offer. Nevertheless, the Sabrage pub is open from 7 am until 2 am and can host around eighty guests at any one time. Once anyone has been here, they always come back.

Press clipping - Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us Turistička zajednica grada Rijeke ovjenčana nagradama Od osnutka Turističke zajednice Grada Rijeke, 2010. godina će ostati zapamćena kao najtrofejnija godina zahvaljujući nizu priznanja i nagrada koje su stigle na njezinu adresu. U sklopu akcije za prestižnu nagradu Hrvatske turističke zajednice "Plavi cvijet 2010.", povjerenstvo Turističke zajednice Kvarnera dodijelilo je prvo mjesto Turističkom informativnom centru Rijeka. Riječki karneval odnio je prvu nagradu u kategoriji «Kulturna baština, manifestacije i nagrade» treću su u kategoriji «Suvenir» osvojili suvenir Torpedo - olovka, što ga je osmislio riječki glazbenik i zlatar Tonči Grabušić. Okućnica privatne zgrade Lučijane Grbac dobila je treću nagradu u kategoriji «Okućnica privatne kuće», a četvrto je mjesto u kategoriji «Park» pripalo je Parku prof. Vinka Frančiškovića, dok je Javnoj plaži za invalide u uvali Kostanj u kategoriji «Javna plaža» dodijeljeno posebno priznanje. Riječki gradonačelnik Vojko Obersnel i Turistička Zajednica Grada Rijeke nagrađeni su za zasluge u razvoju turizma Poveljom F.E.S.T. 2010 i Zlatnim Interstas-om 2010. Ove prestižne međunarodne nagrade već 16 godina dodjeljuje Europska federacija turističkih novinara. Osvajanjem Zlatnog Interstas-a pružena je mogućnost ulaska u projekt "Hrvatska - s cvijećem u zajedničku Europu", odnosno sudjelovanje u natjecanju za prestižnu nagradu Zlatni cvijet Europe. Na završnici Dana hrvatskog turizma, u akciji "Turistički cvijet - kvaliteta za Hrvatsku 2010." Rijeka je osvojila treću nagradu u kategoriji najboljih turističkih mjesta na Jadranu do pet tisuća ležaja. Turistička zajednica Grada Rijeke može se pohvaliti i "Zlatnim turističkim srcem" što ga je zaslužila kao organizator najbolje turističke manifestacije jugoistočne Europe u 2009. godini - Međunarodnoga riječkoga karnevala. U konkurenciji čak 15 zemalja, međunarodno priznanje Turističkoj Zajednici grada Rijeke dodijelio je stručni ocjenjivački sud Međunarodnoga centra za unapređenje ugostiteljstva i turizma - "Sacen International". (Andrea Marić)

Award-winning Rijeka Tourist Board From its founding, the Rijeka Tourist Board will remember 2010 as the year in which it won the most trophies thanks to a series of acknowledgments and prizes that came to its address. Within the Croatian Tourist Board's activity for the “Blue Flower 2010” a prestigious award, the Kvarner Tourist Board’s commission awarded Rijeka Tourist Information Centre. Rijeka Carnival won the first prize in the category “Cultural Heritage, Events and Prizes” whilst the third prize in the category “Souvenir” went to the Torpedo - pencil souvenir created by Rijeka musician and goldsmith, Tonči Grabušić. The private plot of Lučijana Grbac’s private building won the third prize in the category “Private House Plot” and the fourth prize in the category “Park” went to Prof. Vinko Frančišković's Park. The Public Beach for the Handicapped in the Kostanj Bay was awarded, in the category “Public Beach”, a special acknowledgment. Rijeka’s Mayor, Vojko Obersnel and the Rijeka Tourist Board have been awarded the F.E.S.T. 2010 diploma and Golden Interstas 2010 for credits accomplished in the development of tourism. By winning the Golden Interstas, the Tourist Board has gained the possibility of entering the "Croatia – with Flowers into a United Europe” project, that is, participation in the contest for the prestigious Golden Flower of Europe award. In the final of Croatian Tourism Day, during the “Tourist Flower – Quality for Croatia 2010” activity, Rijeka won third prize in the category of best tourist destination on the Adriatic with up to five thousand beds. The Rijeka Tourist Board can boast the "Golden Tourist Heart" award as organiser of the best event in south-eastern Europe in 2009 – the International Rijeka Carnival. In the competition together with another 15 countries, the Rijeka Tourist Board was awarded an international acknowledgment by the expert commission of the International Centre for Catering and Tourism Development – “Sacen International”. (Andrea Marić) Fotografija / Photo: TZ Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board

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