WELCOME TO
RIJEKA Broj
/
Issue 4
|
LIPANj
/
juNe 2011
|
GodINA
/
YeAr 2
Nije za prodaju / Not for sale
Plaže / Beaches
Oaze rasute gradskom obalom Oases that spread out along the city coast Projekt / Project
Riječke šetnice Rijeka promenades Ljeto u Rijeci / Summer in Rijeka
Homo si teć
Utrka dobra srca A race of a good heart Karolina RIječka
Heroina Karolina Karolina, the heroine
Rijeka zove: dođi, vidi, zabavi se!
Rijeka is calling: come, see and entertain yourself! 01.indd 1
5/23/11 11:36:32 PM
01.indd 2
5/23/11 11:37:56 PM
01.indd 3
5/23/11 11:38:16 PM
6. 8.
20. 26.
Uvodnik / Editorial Tema broja / This edition theme Rijeka zove: dođi, vidi, zabavi se! Rijeka is calling: come, see and entertain yourself!
Intervju / Interview Xavier Garcia Gadea
Novi grad / New City Riječke šetnice Rijeka promenades
30.
S izvora u čašu From the spring to the glass
34.
Oaze rasute gradskom obalom Oases that spread out along the city coast
IMPRESSUM
42.
Kad marginalci marširaju When people from the margin march
NAKLADNIK / PUBLISHER
46.
Utrka dobra srca A race of a good heart
50.
Stjenoviti stadion Rocky stadium
54.
Rijeka Open - Tenis s pogledom na more Tennis with the view on the sea
56.
Bogata prošlost Ville Nore Rich history of Villa Nora
58.
Papina rezidencija The Pope’s residence
61.
Pepe Rosso – neobična konoba u centru grada Pepe Rosso - an unusual tavern in the heart of the city centre
62.
Torpedo u srcu grada Torpedo in the heart of the city
Hand Press d.o.o. J.Trdine 2, 51 000 Rijeka e-mail: info@handpress.hr
UREDNIČKI KOLEGIJ / EDITORIAL BOARD
Petar Škarpa, Ermina Duraj, Lea Stoiljković Medved, Ljiljana Mamić Pandža, Velid Đekić, Dean Miculinić, Igor Rivetti, Sandra Ivanišević
GRAFIČKO OBLIKOVANJE / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marijan Baćac
NOVINARI / JOURNALISTS
Velid Đekić, Igor Rivetti, Ljiljana Mamić Pandža, Larry Ambrozich, Lidija Šušak, Klaudio Vrančić, Slavica Mrkić Modrić, Andrea Bralić Marić, Mašenka Vukadinović, Sanja Krmpotić
FOTOGRAFIJE / PHOTOGRAPHS Dean Miculinić
MARKETING
Hand Press d.o.o. e-mail: sandra@handpress.hr
PRIJEVODI / TRANSLATION Prolingua-Ri d.o.o.
TISAK / PRINTED BY WEB2PRINT Zagreb
64.
Tako je nekada bilo / This is how it once was American dream počinjao je u Rijeci American dream was starting in Rijeka
67.
Heroina Karolina Karolina, the heroine
NAKLADA / EDITION
72.
Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - Events
ISSN 1847-5019
76.
DISTRIBUCIJA / DISTRIBUTION HP d.d.
4000 kom
Izlazi dva puta godišnje Published twice a year
Časopis je realiziran u suradnji s Turističkom zajednicom grada Rijeke This magazine was launched in collaboration with the Rijeka Tourist Board
04-07 sadrzaj-uvodnik.indd 4
79. 82.
Zoom Petar Kurschner Jr.
Slasni kutak / Tasty corner Srdela – miljenica ribara i kraljica mora Sardine - Fishermen's favourite and queen of the sea
Press clipping - Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us
5/23/11 11:39:43 PM
8.
20.
26.
30.
34.
42.
46.
58.
64.
79.
04-07 sadrzaj-uvodnik.indd 5
5/23/11 11:43:02 PM
6
Editorial
Like all towns focused on seafaring and sea traffic, Rijeka breathes with the spirit of a sea-port town: cranes on the waterfront, a rail-way-track for cargo transport to the main city road... This is how it has always looked here in Rijeka. That is, only at first sight. In this issue we would like to show you a different Rijeka: a town of crystal clear and renowned drinking water, a place with promenades bathed in the flavours of coastal herbs, a town of people that each year race for a better tomorrow. We would like to present this summer’s events to you and are quite sure you will enjoy them.
We will introduce you to people who, with their work make Rijeka a happier place. We have visited the Pope’s residence, a room in which John Paul II spent five days during his visit to Croatia, choosing Rijeka as his residence. In our minds we have gone back around a hundred years to when Rijeka inhabitants were leaving to America to look for a better life but would also like you to meet Karolina, a woman from Rijeka who rescued it from destruction. We are delighted that by reading this 4th edition of Welcome to Rijeka, you will become a part of this, our, Rijeka story! Editorial board
04-07 sadrzaj-uvodnik.indd 6
5/23/11 11:43:20 PM
7
Uvodnik
Poput svih gradova okrenutih pomorstvu I pomorskom prometu, i Rijeka odiše duhom lučkog grada: na rivi dizalice, na glavnoj gradskoj prometnici željeznička pruga za prijevoz tereta… Tako je oduvijek kod nas, u Rijeci. Odnosno, tako je samo na prvi pogled. U ovom vam broju želimo pokazati drugačiju Rijeku: grad kristalno čiste i nadaleko poznate pitke vode, mjesto sa šetnicama okupanim mirisima primorskoga bilja, grad ljudi koji se svake godine utrkuju za bolje sutra. Želimo vas provesti ljetnim manifestacijama, sigurni smo da će vam se svidjeti.
04-07 sadrzaj-uvodnik.indd 7
Upoznat ćemo vas sa ljudima koji svojim radom čine Rijeku sretnijim mjestom, Posjetili smo Papinu rezidenciju, sobu u kojoj je Ivan Pavao II proveo pet dana za svog posjeta u Hrvatskoj, odabravši baš Rijeku svojim boravištem. Vratili smo se u mislima i stotinjak godina unazad, kada su Riječani odlazili u Ameriku u potrazi za boljim životom, a želja nam je i da upoznate Karolinu riječku, ženu koja je spasila Rijeku od razaranja. Veselimo se što ćete čitanjem ovog, četvrtog broja Welcome to Rijeka postati dio naše, riječke priče! Uredništvo
5/23/11 11:44:09 PM
8
Tema broja / This edition theme
Rijeka zove:
dođi, vidi, zabavi se!
Rijeka is calling: come, see and entertain yourself! 08-19 TEMA RLJ.indd 8
5/23/11 11:45:31 PM
9
Piše / Written by: Slavica Mrkić Modrić Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić, HNK Ivana Pl. Zajca
Ljeto u Rijeci donosi pregršt zanimljivih manifestacija koje domaće stanovništvo i turiste ostavljaju bez daha Summer in rijeka brings numerous interesting events which attract a wave of local inhabitants as well as tourists
08-19 TEMA RLJ.indd 9
5/23/11 11:46:47 PM
10
Sva su godišnja doba u Rijeci lijepa. Svako ima svoju boju, svoj miris i svoj dodir. Svoj kontakt s građanima i svima onima koji Rijeci i Riječanima dolaze u pohode. Jesen zašareni grad provlačeći se kroz njegove drvorede i parkove, raznoseći opalo lišće nalik najživahnijem gradskom dječarcu. Zima grad najprije ogoli, pa odjene u najluđe karnevalsko ruho i povede ga u razbludnu igru iskona i urbanog poimanja života pod maskom. Proljeće Rijeku pretvori u najšareniju bočicu parfema iz koje izlaze svi cvjetni mirisi ovog svijeta, a ljeto... Eh, ljeto u Rijeci! To treba doživjeti. Od lipnja do rujna grad na Rječini postaje grad svekolikih zbivanja. Grad što se budi okupan suncem, a na počinak odlazi uljuljkan romantikom toplih ljetnih zora. Grad što diše punim plućima i krijepi dušu svih onih koji se u njemu u to doba nađu. Dobar „ljetni posao“ su odradili priroda i društvo. Priroda je dala sve od sebe smjestivši Rijeku na sjeverni dio Jadrana, u prekrasan zaljev koji može primiti i velike i male brodove, otvorivši joj tako put ka ostatku svijeta, ali i svijetu ka Rijeci. Podarila joj je idealnu klimu, prekrasne plaže, vale i valice, jednako lijepu okolinu i zaštitu uobličenu, s jedne strane u tzv. Grobničke Alpe, a s druge u vjekovnog čuvara Kvarnera, Prirodni park Učku. Društvo ili Riječani, stoljećima su se od svog grada trudili napraviti grad po mjeri čovjeka. Uspjeli su još davno, ali svaka se nova generacija trudi ne samo zadržati taj prestižni status, već ga učiniti još savršenijim. Ono što svakog putnika namjernika ili slučajnika, ali i stalnog stanovnika ljeti drži i veže uz Rijeku, osim prirodnih ljepota i blagodati života uz more, kulturne baštine i mentalnog sklopa što se kod
08-19 TEMA RLJ.indd 10
Eh, ljeto u Rijeci! To treba doživjeti. Od lipnja do rujna grad na Rječini postaje grad svekolikih zbivanja. Grad što se budi okupan suncem, a na počinak odlazi uljuljkan romantikom toplih ljetnih zora. Grad što diše punim plućima i krijepi dušu svih onih koji se u njemu u to doba nađu... Eh, summer in Rijeka! Has to be experienced. From June to September, this town on the Rječina becomes a town of various events. a town that wakes up bathed in sunlight, and is rocked to sleep with the romanticism of warm summer dawns. A town that breathes with full lungs and refreshes the souls of all those who find themselves in Rijeka at that time... Every season is special in Rijeka. Each one has its own colour, flagrance and feel. Contact with the inhabitants but also with all those visiting Rijeka and the Rijeka inhabitants. In autumn the town wears its colours, wriggling along its alleys and parks, spreading the autumn leave like the most vivacious small boy. Winter first defoliates and then dresses the town in the craziest carnival clothes and brings it a voluptuous game of the origin and urban conception of life under a mask. Spring transforms Rijeka into a most colourful perfume bottle from which all flower flagrances of this world exit, and summer.... Eh, summer in Rijeka! Has to be experienced. From June to September, this town on the Rječina becomes a town of various events. a town that wakes up bathed in sunlight, and is rocked to sleep with the romanticism of warm summer dawns. A town that breathes with full lungs and refreshes the souls of all those who find themselves in Rijeka at that time. Nature and society have done a good “summer job”. Nature has given its best by placing Rijeka on the northern part of the Adriatic, in a beautiful bay that can host both large and small ships, providing Rijeka with an open way to the rest of the world. And the rest of the world to Rijeka too. Nature has provided an ideal climate, beautiful beaches, coves and smaller inlets , an environment of the same beauty and protection in the form of the Grobnik Alps to one side, and to the other from the centuries-old protector of Kvarner the, Učka Natural Park. Society or the Rijeka inhabitants have, for centuries tried to make their town one tailored for men. They did it time ago, but every new generation tries hard not only to maintain that prestigious status, but also to make it more perfect. What holds and binds every chance traveller or unintentional traveller and also the Rijeka inhabitant himself to Rijeka, besides its natural beauties and the advantages of living close to the sea, is its cultural heritage and intellectual complex of the local inhabitants from whom we can hear the phrase "go anywhere but always come back home", and there are numerous cultural, sporting and entertaining events. Cultural institutions and Citizens’ associations, under the organizational eye of the Rijeka Tourist Board and its well conceived promotional messages, contribute with their programs ensuring that this town during the summer becomes a huge open-air stage. Rijeka Summer Nights, Summer on Gradina, the Hartera Festival, the Fiumanka regatta.....are just some of events that throughout the summer make Rijeka a town which knows how to live in a quality way.
5/23/11 11:51:09 PM
08-19 TEMA RLJ.indd 11
5/23/11 11:51:40 PM
12
domicilnog stanovništva iščitava iz rečenice „svugdje prođi, uvijek doma dođi“ jesu i brojna kulturna, sportska i zabavna zbivanja. Da bi grad ljeti postao velika pozornica na otvorenom svojim programima pridonose kulturne institucije i Udruge građana, a sve pod budnim organizacijskim okom i dobro osmišljenom promidžbom Turističke zajednice Grada Rijeke. Riječke ljetne noći, Ljeto na Gradini, Festival Hartera, Fiumanka, itd. samo su neke od manifestacija što od Rijeke ljeti grade grad koji zna kvalitetno živjeti.
RIJEKA SUMMER NIGHTS - an event that provokes and reveals
Riječke ljetne noći - manifestacija što provocira i otkriva
It really provokes....but also reveals. With its contents but also with the places where those contents take place. During the festival, which has a very flexible duration as it prolongs up to thirty days, Rijeka’s squares, terraces, coves, beaches, streets and parks are transformed into stages. A curiosity and particularity of Rijeka Summer Nights is also the aim of organizers – CNT Ivan pl. Zajc, the Municipality of Rijeka and the Rijeka Tourist Board, to reconsider the mutual relationship of industrial culture and art. In accordance with this, the majority of the program is performed in abandoned factory halls, giving this story a Rijeka edge, an edge to the town that over the centuries has seen urbanity both present and developed through industry.
Jednom zgodom riječki je gradonačelnik Vojko Obersnel o manifestaciji nazvanoj »Riječke ljetne noći«, još 2004. godine zamišljenoj kao kulturnu promidžbu Rijeke što svojim sadržajima u poznatim ili manje poznatim prostorima Rijeke stvara ambijentalni teatar kazao – to je Festival koji provocira i otkriva, Festival koji daje snagu Rijeci i pridonosi promociji njezine kulture. Uistinu i provocira, i otkriva. I sadržajem i mjestima na kojima se ti sadržaji odvijaju. Za vrijeme trajanja festivala, a trajanje mu je vrlo fleksibilno jer se zna protegnuti i na tridesetak dana, riječki se trgovi, terase, uvale, plaže, ulice, parkovi pretvaraju u pozornice. Zanimljivost i posebnost Riječkih ljetnih noći jest i težnja organizatora – HNK Ivana pl. Zajca, Grada Rijeke i TZ Grada Rijeke da propitaju suodnos industrijske kulture i umjetnosti, pa se s tim ciljem dobar dio programa odvija u napuštenim tvorničkim halama, dajući cijeloj priči onaj riječki štih, štih grada u kojem je stoljećima bila i kroz industriju razvijana urbanost.
08-19 TEMA RLJ.indd 12
On one occasion, Rijeka’s mayor, Vojko Obersnel, said when talking about the event known as “Rijeka Summer Nights” which in 2004 was conceived as a cultural promotion of Rijeka that thanks to its contents in both well-known and lesser known places of Rijeka which make up the ambient theatre, that this is a Festival that provokes and reveals, Festivals that provide Rijeka with force and contribute to the promotion of its culture.
Talking about the contents offered by Rijeka Summer Nights means talking of a very rich program, from classic drama and premieres of new drama texts to street theatre; from classical music concerts to the performance of famous players from the Croatian and foreign music scene. Theatre, literary and film programs are represented in an equal segment, so everybody can find something for themselves within the offer of Rijeka Summer Nights.
5/23/11 11:57:45 PM
13
Govoriti o sadržajima koje nude Riječke ljetne noći znači govoriti o vrlo bogatom programu što se kreće u rasponu od klasične drame i praizvedbe novih dramskih tekstova do uličnog teatra, od koncerata klasične glazbe do nastupa poznatih izvođača hrvatske i strane glazbene scene. Kazališni, literarni i filmski programi zastupljeni su u podjednakom segmentu, tako da svatko u ponudi Riječkih ljetnih noći može pronaći ponešto za sebe. Ono što rijetko koji stanovnik grada na Rječini, ali i brojni gosti koji se u tom trenutku nađu u Rijeci nikako ne propuštaju, je sam čin otvaranja manifestacije. Na primjeru onog lanjskog, pokušat ćemo dočarati spektakl što iz godine u godinu prati ovu manifestaciju. Zamislite, čitav događaj je smješten u riječku luku. Na Rivu se naguralo oko petnaest tisuća gledatelja, a s pontona u srcu riječkog akvatorija i riječke luke na kojem su bili smješteni solisti, zbor i orkestar Opere riječkog HNK Ivana pl. Zajca kojim je dirigirala intendantica kazališta Nada Matošević, razlijegli su se zvuci glasovite „Ode radosti“, završnog dijela veličanstvene Beethovenove Devete simfonije. S istog mjesta brojna je publika počašćena i „Ave Mariom“ Giulija Caccinija u interpretaciji vrhunske hrvatske sopranistice Ivane Lazar. S mora je publici darovano još mnoštvo glazbenih
What is rarely missed by the inhabitants of the city near the Rječina but also by the numerous guests, who find themselves in Rijeka at the time, is the opening ceremony. As an example of last year’s ceremony, we will try to conjure up the spectacle which from year to year follows this event. Imagine.....an entire event located in the port of Rijeka. There were around fifteen thousand spectators occupying the waterfront, looking at the pontoon situated in the heart of Rijeka’s aquatorium and the port of Rijeka where soloists, a choir and an orchestra from the Rijeka CNT Ivan pl. Zajc's Opera conducted by theatre manager, Nada Matošević, performed the famous “Ode to Joy“, the final part of the magnificent Beethoven's Ninth Symphony whose sounds reverberated all around. From the same place, numerous spectators were entertained by Giulio Caccini’s “Ave Maria”, interpreted by the first-class Croatian female soprano, Ivana Lazar. From the sea, the public were awarded other musical delights, appropriate speeches and at the end, a magnificent firework display which dappled the sky above the town. All of the spectators will always remember a beautiful picture of the port of Rijeka in a warm summer night, permeated by music, as well as all those ships, boats and sailing boats whose crews enjoyed this spectacle from the sea. Their presence contributed to the attractiveness and sensibility of this
Ljetne noći na Trsatskoj gradini ne plijene samo sadržajima već i samim ambijentom. Gledateljstvo, ali i same izvođače prožima poseban osjećaj dočim prođu vrata nekadašnje Frankopanske utvrde. Osjete prožimanje prošlosti i sadašnjosti, dok iz zvjezdanog neba ponad Gradine mogu iščitati jedino romantiku...
Summer evenings at Trsat castle attract not only with its full programme but also with its atmosphere. Spectators together with the performers are pervaded by a special feeling once they pass the door of the former Frankopan fortress. They feel permeation of the past and the present, whilst from the stellar sky above Gradina only romantics can be read...
08-19 TEMA RLJ.indd 13
5/23/11 11:58:19 PM
14
poslastica, prigodnih govora i na kraju velebni vatromet što je prošarao nebo ponad Rijeke. Predivnu sliku riječke luke, u toploj ljetnoj, glazbom prožetoj noći svi gledatelji nosit će vječno u sjećanju, baš kao i sve one brodove i brodice, barke i jedrilice čija je posada s mora uživala u ovom spektaklu, svojim prisustvom pridonoseći atraktivnosti i prijemčljivosti ove riječke manifestacije koja je tijekom proteklih sedam godina postala svojevrstan riječki kulturni brend, što ga prepoznaju mnogi zaljubljenici u kulturu ne samo iz Lijepe naše već i iz svijeta. Tko ne vjeruje, nije mu teško provjeriti, jer 8. riječke ljetne noći i ovog će lipnja čarobnim umjetničkim štapićem Rijeku pretvoriti u čudnovatu veliku pozornicu kojom u jednakoj mjeri vladaju i umjetnici i oni koji ih pljeskom bodre.
HARTERA - festival urbane gerile Za tzv. urbanu gerilu, Rijeka, grad što nastoji ustrajati na putu razvoja urbanog turizma, od 2005. godine nudi doživljaj nad doživljajima. Nudi festival s dušom poznat pod imenom Hartera. A, Hartera je, vjerovali vi to ili ne, nekadašnja tvornica papira, koja od sredine devedesetih godina prošlog stoljeća umjesto papira, svakog lipnja, proizvodi specifični riječki glazbeni zvuk. Dakako da je taj riječki zvuk okosnica i genetski kod festivala, ali i baza za sve one gostujuće koji se gotovo u središtu, ali ipak na periferiji grada stapaju s domicilnim, stvarajući tako još jednu riječku specifičnost. U postrojenjima i halama tvornice što je od 19. stoljeća mnogim stanovnicima Rijeke i njezine okolice značila život, u kojoj su se proizvodile napoznatije "mini šibice" u svijetu pod nazivom parafinke, tih se nekoliko dana proizvodi ne
08-19 TEMA RLJ.indd 14
Rijeka event that, in the past seven years, have become a cultural brand of Rijeka that is unique of its kind, recognized by numerous admirers of culture, not only from Croatia but also from abroad. For those who don't believe us, there is an easy way to check it out as the 8th Rijeka Summer Nights will once again this June transform Rijeka with its artistic wand into a magnificent great stage, equally governed by the artists and those encouraging them with applause.
HARTERA – a festival of urban guerilla For the so called urban guerrilla, Rijeka, a town which has tried to persist in the way it develops its urban tourism, since 2005 has offered the finest experience ever. It offers a festival with a soul, known as Hartera. And Hartera was, believe or not, a former paper factory which, from the middle of the 1990s, each June produces specific Rijeka musical sounds. Of course, this Rijeka sound is an outline and genetic code of the festival, but also the basis for all spectators with events taking place almost in the centre as well as on the outskirts of the town with visitors coming together with local inhabitants, thus creating another Rijeka particularity. Here within the factories and large workshops which from the 19th century meant life to many Rijeka inhabitants, where the famous “mini matches” were produced, called parafinke (paraffin matches), over these few days not only the muse is produced but company is kept with broaden perspectives, producing love, creating friendships and another Rijeka brand. This festival always takes place in June although this year there is an exception as it will be taking place on 15th and 16th July and all those staying in Rijeka's Hartera, should know that this
5/23/11 11:58:44 PM
08-19 TEMA RLJ.indd 15
5/24/11 12:01:06 AM
16
Hartera je počela živjeti ne samo noću, nego i danju. U tvorničkim su postrojenjima nikli šatori, niknuo je kamp "u zatvorenom prostoru", uskrsnulo je elektro – svetište, i još čudesa toga. Taj dio Rijeke zaživio je nekim nesvakidašnjim životom...
samo glazba, već i druženje, širenje vidika, proizvodi se ljubav, stvaraju se prijateljstva i još jedan riječki brend.
event which they will surely enjoy, in the same was the other 25 thousand visitors and more than 150 performers do, who in the past six editions of the Hartera festival boomed through the Factory since 2005 when this great form of entertainment was conceived to break the summer lethargy. And then the organizers – Simon Dejhala and Damir Martinović were taken by surprise when their idea brought six thousand visitors to the old plant, in front of a stage, spread along the places where once workers walked, lay down near the Rječina bed and enjoy, enjoy... As Hartera was 'growing up', the number of days of the event increased as well as the number of stages. From its first edition, the Festival organizers have taken great care that rock and electronic music be represented equally on every stage, so the representatives of the urban guerrilla, don’t mind which fraction they belong to, and are equally satisfied.
Svi koji će, gle iznimke, ove godine 15. i 16. srpnja (a ne lipnja) "nadničariti" u riječkoj Harteri, trebali bi znati da je događanje u kojem će zasigurno uživati baš kao i svih onih 25 tisuća posjetitelja i preko 150 izvođača koliko ih je tijekom proteklih šest Hartera protutnjalo Tvornicom, te spomenute 2005. godine bilo zamišljeno kao dobra fora, dobar način zabave kojom bi se razbila ljetna učmalost. A onda je i organizatore – Simona Dejhalu i Damira Martinovića, zaskočila vlastita ideja – šest tisuća posjetitelja pohrlilo je u staro postrojenje, pred jednu pozornicu, razmililo se mjestima po kojima su nekad hodali radnici, poleglo uz korito Rječine i uživalo, uživalo... Kako je Hartera "odrastala" tako se povećavao broj dana trajanja manifestacije, ali i broj pozornica. Od prvog izdanja Festival pomno pazi da na spominjanim pozornicama u jednakoj mjeri budu zastupljeni
After the first edition, the director’s stick took a very, very capable team gathered in the Club of noise admirers (Klub ljubitelja buke), so besides its musical expression, the Festival assumes a comprehensive artistic character. It has become a place where, besides musicians, its skills represent performers, painters, and sculptors and also people interested in ecology – or more briefly - rockers, geaks and freaks. Hartera started living not only during the night, but also during the day. At the factory plants tents and “indoor”, camps were put up, and an electronic shrine has been resuscitated, together with many other things. In that part of Rijeka an unusual life began. Hartera took its ascending path, and was proclaimed the best Croatian music festival according to www.muzika.hr, whilst the Virtual festivals portal (web page) put it amongst the ten best small European festivals. But, even without these awards,
Hartera started living not only during the night, but also during the day. At the factory plants tents and “indoor”, camps were put up, and an electronic shrine has been resuscitated, together with many other things. In that part of Rijeka an unusual life began...
08-19 TEMA RLJ.indd 16
5/24/11 12:02:10 AM
17
rock i elektro glazbeni izričaj, tako da pripadnici urbane gerile, neovisno kojoj frakciji pripadali budu u jednakoj mjeri zadovoljeni. Nakon prvog izdanja, upravljačku palicu Festivala preuzela je vrlo sposobna ekipa okupljena u Klub ljubitelja buke, pa je uz glazbeni izričaj Festval poprimao i sveobuhvatni umjetnički karakter. Postao je mjesto na kojem svoja umijeća osim glazbenika prezentiraju performeri, slikari, kipari, ekologiji skloni ljudi ili da skratimo – i rokeri i gikovi i frikovi. Hartera je počela živjeti ne samo noću, nego i danju. U tvorničkim su postrojenjima nikli šatori, niknuo je kamp "u zatvorenom prostoru", uskrsnulo je elektro – svetište, i još čudesa toga. Taj dio Rijeke zaživio je nekim nesvakidašnjim životom. Krenula je Hartera uzlaznom putanjom, proglašena je najboljim hrvatskim glazbenim festivalom prema mišljenju Muzika.hr-a, a portal Virtual festivals smjestio ju je među deset najboljih malih festivala Europe. No, da i nije tih formalnih nagrada, onaj tko je samo jednom bio na Harteri zna da je to festival s dušom.
LJETO NA GRADINI - ljeto s vidikom Kulturno-zabavna manifestacija "Ljeto na Gradini" jedna je od najdužih i sadržajem najbogatijih manifestacija te vrste u Hrvatskoj. Pokrenula ju je 2006. godine Udruga "Bašćanski glasi", a tijekom tri mjeseca koliko Ljeto na Gradini traje, posjetiteljima nudi sijaset sadržaja, počevši od koncerata renomiranih imena strane i domaće pop i rock glazbe, gostovanja brojnih vrhunskih jazz imena, preko gostovanja i premijernih predstava brojnih hrvatskih glumačkih ansabala, do filmskih premijera. Sve to unutar drevnih zidina Frankopana, na vrhu
08-19 TEMA RLJ.indd 17
once you have visited Hartera, you know that this is a festival with a soul.
SUMMER ON GRADINA – summer with a view Cultural and entertaining event „Summer on Gradina“ is one of the longest and for its content the richest of its kind in Croatia. It was started in 2006 by the „Bašćanski glasi“association and during the three months that Summer on Gradina lasts, it offers its visitors a varied programme, from concerts of renowned names of domestic and foreign pop and rock musicians, guest performances of numerous top jazz names, guest performances and premiere performances of numerous Croatian ensembles to movie premieres. All that inside the ancient Frankopan walls, at the top of Trsat, a place from where you can carry Rijeka in the palm of your hand. So, it is not strange that this event rightfully brings the epithet of the event with the best view. Both literally and stylistically. During the five summers spent in the Frankopans' castle, almost two thousand cultural events are offered to visitors, performed by around 1200 performers, followed by more than 53 thousand spectators. Even the Frankopans would say ‘well done to organizers’. Summer evenings at Trsat castle attract not only with its full programme but also with its atmosphere. Spectators together with the performers are pervaded by a special feeling once they pass the door of the former Frankopan fortress. They feel permeation of the past and the present, whilst from the stellar sky above Gradina only romantics can be read. An accurately conceived catering offer contributes to the entire atmosphere, so being in Rijeka and not discovering at least one summer
5/24/11 12:03:35 AM
18
Trsata, s mjesta s kojeg Rijeku "nosiš na dlanu". Stoga, nikakvo čudo što ova manifestacija s pravom nosi epitet manifestacije s najboljim vidikom. U doslovnom i u prenesenom smislu. Tijekom pet "ljetovanja u Frankopanskom dvorcu", u ponudi posjetiteljima našlo se gotovo dvjesto kulturnih zbivanja, u njima je sudjelovalo oko 1200 izvođača, a pratilo ih je preko 53 tisuće gledatelja. Vauuu, za organizatore, vjerojatno bi rekli i sami Frankopani.
night in Gradina is a huge mistake. Rare are those who make this mistake, so we can conclude that the primary objective of this event - reanimation of the medieval castle through music, words, movement and pictures as well as expanding the cultural offer of the town and County during the tourist season is completely achieved.
Ljetne noći na Trsatskoj gradini ne plijene samo sadržajima već i samim ambijentom. Gledateljstvo, ali i same izvođače prožima poseban osjećaj dočim prođu vrata nekadašnje Frankopanske utvrde. Osjete prožimanje prošlosti i sadašnjosti, dok iz zvjezdanog neba ponad Gradine mogu iščitati jedino romantiku. Čitavom ugođaju pridonosi i pomno osmišljena ugostiteljska ponuda, stoga biti u Rijeci, a ne razotkriti jednu ljetnu noć na Gradini definitivno znači pogriješiti. Rijetki su oni kojima se to i dogodi pa možemo zaključiti kako je početni cilj ove manifestacije – oživljavanje srednjovjekovne gradine kroz glazbu, riječ, pokret i sliku, te širenje kulturne ponude grada i županije tijekom turističke sezone, u potpunosti ostvaren.
Since 2000, when Rijeka extends its sails in the first part of June, all Rijeka inhabitants know that Fiumanka has begun. This is the time when the motto of this sporting event comes into force, the event that the International Sailing Federation (ISAF) has included in its calendar, giving it an epithet of a real sporting event. The motto is - you have a boat, participate! Many domestic and foreign sailors sign up to take part, admirers of sea silences and life under sails, proclaiming Rijeka's unofficial sailing holiday, and creating a brand. Fiumanka is, together with Split's Mrduja Regatta, the greatest regatta of the Croatian part of the Adriatic whilst this year, the 12th edition, will take place in the Kvarner aquatorium and bring Rijeka to life in the period from 9 to 12 June. Around 200 sailing ships and about 1500 crew members from all around the world will make the city on the Rječina into a city completely absorbed by the sea, as sailors and their beautiful vessels are not the only ones taking part in this regatta, there are also all those who carefully follow it from the waterfront, from the balconies of their houses and flats, from the terraces of nearby cafe bars, from the jetty or from the top of the skyscrapers. Fiumanka transforms Rijeka into a completely different town than it usually is. It completely reverses everything and drags everybody down to the waterfront. During the regatta – the excitement of the daytime seeps into the evening hours when entertainment is offered on the waterfront until the early hours. Sometimes even until the next regatta.
FIUMANKA - Rijeka pod jedrima Kad u prvoj polovici lipnja Rijeka razvije jedra, od 2000. godine svi Riječani znaju da je startala Fiumanka. Tada stupa na snagu geslo ove sportske manifestacije koju je International Sailing Federation (ISAF) uvrstio u svoj kalendar, dajući joj tako epitet istinskog sportskog događanja, a geslo je – imaš brod, imaš jedro, prijavi se! I prijavljuju se mnogi domaći i strani jedriličari, zaljubljenici u morske tišine i život pod jedrima, proglašavajući tako riječki nepisani praznik jedrenja, stvarajući brend. Fiumanka je uz splitsku Mrdujsku regatu najmasovnija regata hrvatskog dijela Jadrana, a ove će godine, dvanaeste zaredom, zaživjeti u kvarnerskom akvatoriju i oživjeti Rijeku u razdoblju od 9. do 12. lipnja. U prosjeku do 200 jedrilica i oko 1500 članova posade pristiglih iz mnogih zemalja svijeta u te dane grad na Rječini pretvaraju u grad isključivo okrenut moru, jer
FIUMANKA – Rijeka under sails
Fiumanka je uz splitsku Mrdujsku regatu najmasovnija regata hrvatskog dijela Jadrana, a ove će godine, dvanaeste zaredom, zaživjeti u kvarnerskom akvatoriju od 9. do 12. lipnja. U prosjeku do 200 jedrilica i oko 1500 članova posade, u te dane grad na Rječini pretvore u grad isključivo okrenut moru Fiumanka is, together with Split's Mrduja Regatta, the greatest regatta of the Croatian part of the Adriatic whilst this year, the 12th one, will take place in the Kvarner aquatorium and vivify Rijeka in the period from 9 to 12 June. Around 200 sailing ships and about 1500 members of the crew make the city on Rječina these days a city completely directed to the sea
08-19 TEMA RLJ.indd 18
5/24/11 12:04:09 AM
19
ovu regatu ne čine samo nautičari i njihova prekrasna plovila već i svi oni što ju pomno prate s Rive, s balkona svojih kuća i stanova, s terasa obližnjih kafića, lukobrana ili pak vrhova nebodera. Fiumanka Rijeku pretvara u sasvim drugačiji grad od onog kakav je inače. Jednostavno napravi pretumbaciju i svih odvuče na Rivu. Kako za trajanja regate tako i u večernjim satima kad se na istoj toj rivi zabavlja do zore. Ponekad i do sljedeće regate. Ovogodišnja Fiumanka još će malo obogatiti ponudu, pa će zaintersiranim posjetiteljima prirediti i Sajam jedrenja na kojem će biti predstavljene sve one "sitnice" što prate život uz jedra i more, od jedara, boja i lakova, preko sidara i konopa, do nautičke odjeće, obuće, kozmetike... Na istom će mjestu biti zastupljene i charter tvrtke i škole jedrenja pa, tko voli nek' izvoli. Uz već tradicionalne međunarodne regate Veliku Fiumanku (11.6.) i Press Fiumanku (10. i 11.6.), regatu na kojoj sudjeluju predstavnici medija, jedrit će i tzv. Rotary regata (10. i 11.6.), Liburnijska regata (9. i 10.6. na potezu od Zadra do Rijeke), regata tradicionalne gradnje ili Classic Fiumanka (10. i 11.6.), Virtual Fiumanka (10.6.), te Skipper Fiumanka, 12. lipnja na završni dan regate, kad će biti i proglašeni pobjednici. Eto, za svačiji gušt ponešto, a za Rijeku veliko događanje što i onog moru najnesklonijeg lika ostavlja bez daha. Fiumanka je manifestacija koja "kupuje" entuzijazmom i vibrira isključivo "dobrom vibrom". Njezina jedra ne pokreće niti jedan vjetar osim onog zvanog – pozitiva. Za kraj samo napomena: Rijeka tijekom čitave godine govori isto – dođi, vidi, pridruži se, zabavi se! Ona poziva, nudi i čeka sa samo Primorcima svojstvenom dobrodošlicom.
08-19 TEMA RLJ.indd 19
This year's Fiumanka will have a richer offer so those interested visitors will have possibility of visiting the Sailing Fair where all periphery events associated with a life with sails and sea are represented, from sails, paints and lacquers to anchors and ropes, nautical clothes, footwear, cosmetics, etc. In the same place both charter companies and sailing schools will be represented, so for those who want it, here it is. Besides the already traditional international regattas Velika Fiumanka (Big Fiumanka) held on 11 June and Press Fiumanka on 10 and 11 June, the regatta in which media representatives take part, and there is also the Rotary regatta on 10 and 11 June, the Liburnia regatta on 9 and 10 June on the route from Zadar to Rijeka, a regatta of traditional construction or the Classic Fiumanka on 10 and 11 June, the Virtual Fiumanka on 10 June and the Skipper Fiumanka on 12 June, on the final regatta day, when the winners will also be pronounced. So, everybody will find something for themselves, whilst for Rijeka this is a great event that leaves even the most averse to the sea breathless. Fiumanka is an event which can gain approval with its enthusiasm and which vibrates exclusively with its amazing vibe. Its sails are not driven by any wind but that known as positive thinking. To finish, just a comment: Throughout the year Rijeka says the same thing - come, see, join and entertain! It invites, offers and waits with a welcome characteristic that only coastal dwellers can offer.
5/24/11 12:04:42 AM
20
Intervju / Interview
Piše / Written by: Igor Rivetti Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić
Xavier Garcia Gadea
20-24 INTERVJU.indd 20
5/24/11 12:06:03 AM
21
Priča o vaterpolu u Rijeci je počela prije više od stoljeća. Vaterpolski klub Primorje osnovan je 1908., a u njegovim vitrinama stoje brojni pehari i medalje koji svjedoče o slavnoj povijesti, no što je još i važnije gledatelji u istim uspjesima mogu uživati i danas. Vaterpolski klub Primorje trenutno je jedna od najboljih svjetskih momčadi. U bazenu na Kantridi igraju ponajbolji svjetski igrači i nigdje tribine nisu toliko pune kao na bazenu uz more. Na Kantridi se govori nekoliko jezika, a za španjolski je zaslužan Xavier Garcia Gadea. On je i jedan od razloga što ulaznica nikada nema dovoljno. 27-godišnje desno krilo u Rijeku je stigao iz Barcelone sa diplomom ekonomskog fakulteta i reputacijom jednog od najboljih napadača u bazenima. - Otkud ljubav prema vaterpolu? Kad ste počeli igrati vaterpolo? Vaterpolo sam počeo igrati jer ga je trenirao i moj stariji brat. Ali sam prije svega počeo plivati pa sam tako plivati naučio prije nego hodati. Dadilja me vodila na bazen umjesto u park, tako da sam plivanje počeo učiti već s devet mjeseci. Vaterpolo sam počeo igrati sa šest godina i pridružio se starijem bratu koji je tada igrao za mali klub, Hortu. Kako su tamo trebali djecu, a ja sam bio ljevak i visok, počeo sam igrati. U Horti sam igrao 8 godina, nakon toga je došao poziv iz Barcelone u kojoj sam proveo 6 godina. Igrao sam i za Tarazu, a poziv od Primorja prošloga ljeta dočekao sam kao član Atletico Barcelonete. - Koliko je vaterpolo popularan u Španjolskoj. Možete li usporediti vaterpolo u Španjolskoj i Hrvatskoj? Vaterpolo u Španjolskoj nije poznat. O vaterpolu se ne priča niti na televiziji, ni u novinama, a jako malo ljudi uopće i zna što je zapravo vaterpolo. I naravno, ne poznaje nijednog igrača. Međutim, vaterpolo ima izuzetno veliku konkurenciju u Španjolskoj. Španjolska je prvak svijeta u nogometu, bivši prvak u košarci, tu su i veliki uspjesi rukometaša, a da ne govorimo primjerice o Rafaelu Nadalu ili Fernandu Alonsu. Vaterpolo u Španjolskoj s vaterpolom u Hrvatskoj je jednostavno nemoguće usporediti. O vaterpolu se u Španjolskoj priča samo kad se održavaju velika natjecanja poput Svjetskog prvenstva ili Olimpijade. U Hrvatskoj se, s druge strane, vaterpolo stalno spominje u sportskim i dnevnim novinama...razgovara se o vaterpolu, televizija prenosi razne utakmice i zapravo sam ljubomoran na odnos prema vaterpolu u Hrvatskoj. - Vaš dolazak u Rijeku - koliko se Rijeka razlikuje od onoga što ste očekivali prije dolaska i koji su Vaši prvi dojmovi?
20-24 INTERVJU.indd 21
The story of water-polo in Rijeka began more than a century ago. The Primorje Water-polo club was founded in 1908. Cabinets, at the club contain numerous cups and medals,which are testimony to its famous history. But even more important is that spectators can enjoy the equally famous history. The Primorje Water-polo club is at present one of the best water-polo teams in the world. The world’s best players play in the swimming pool on Kantrida and nowhere are the stands so full as in this swimming-pool near the sea. On Kantrida a number of languages are spoken, and as far as Spanish is concerned, Xavier Garcia Gadea is worthy of mention and is one of the reasons why there are never enough tickets. The 27 year-old right post shooter in Rijeka comes from Barcelona and graduated at the Faculty of Economics and has the reputation of one of the best offensive players. - Where did your love for water-polo come from? When did you start playing water-polo? I started playing water-polo because my older brother did it. But, before that I began swimming. I learnt to swim before I started to walk. My nanny brought me to the swimmingpool instead of the park, so I started to learn how to swim at 9 months and started to play water-polo in the age of six. My older brother already played water-polo, and the first club we played for was a small club called Horta. As they needed children there, and I was left-handed and tall, I started to play. I played for my first club for 8 years and then received an invitation from Barcelona where I stayed for 6 years. I also played for Taraza and received the invitation from Primorje when I was playing for Atletico Barceloneta. - How popular is water-polo in Spain? Can you compare water-polo in Spain to that in Croatia? Water-polo in Spain is not famous. You will not hear anybody speaking about it neither on television nor in the newspapers whilst only a small number of people even knows what waterpolo actually is. And, of course, they do not know any water-polo players. However, there is a huge competition for water-polo in Spain. The Spanish national team is world football champion, ex-basketball champion, and our great handball players’ successes should also not be forgotten. Other great sportsmen such as Rafael Nadal or Fernando Alonso should also be mentioned. It is impossible to compare water-polo in Spain with the sport here in Croatia. Spain speaks about water-polo only when great competitions like the World championships or the Olympic game take place whilst in Croatia water-polo is constantly mentioned in sporting and daily newspapers....people
5/24/11 12:10:29 AM
22
Kada sam stigao u Rijeku znao sam...Ja sam iz Barcelone i postoji mali broj gradova koji se mogu usporediti s Barcelonom, ali mi je bilo jasno da sam ovdje došao raditi i da nije bilo važno gdje idem. Znao sam da nije malen grad i to potvrđuje broj od 150 tisuća stanovnika koji žive u Rijeci. Na kraju sam se doista iznenadio jer je to grad u kojem možeš naći sve. Imaš centar grada, Korzo za šetnju, restorane kakve poželiš, blizu je Istra koja je vrlo lijepa kao i sve što ju okružuje. Zapravo mi, tu u Rijeci, ništa ne nedostaje. Prijatelji koji su me došli posjetiti, ali i obitelj ostali su iznenađeni činjenicom kako je ovdje dobro. Ostali su zapanjeni ljepotom Rijeke i okolice. Vrijeme je slično onom u Barceloni. Jedino što ovdje ima malo više kiše. - Najljepše mjesto u gradu, koliko ste uspjeli vidjeti? U gradu mi se jako sviđa Korzo jer je u centru grada, ali i Trsat, Trsatska gradina. Jako mi se sviđa što možeš vidjeti cijeli grad i more. Kao što sam i rekao, Rijeka je grad na moru okružen planinama. More se vidi s raznih mjesta i to je prelijepo. - Koje su vas navike lokalnog stanovništva u Hrvatskoj i Rijeci iznenadile, odnosno jesu li različite od vaših u Španjolskoj? Istina je da smo vrlo slični. Ja sam mislio da ću naići na više razlika, ali mislim da je današnji svijet poprilično socijalan i nema velikih razlika u stilu života. Postoji samo mala razlika u hrani. U Rijeci koja je blizu Italije se jede mnogo tjestenine, njoki i sl.. Sve se poslužuje uz njoke, paštu, a jede se i mnogo mesa. Obzirom da je ovo obalno područje, mislio sam da se jede više ribe. Kad idem kod prijatelja u posjet, oni uvijek spremaju tipičnu hrvatsku hranu i do sada mi se sve svidjelo mada najviše volim gulaš s njokima i maneštru. I da, ovdje se jede puno više deserata nego u Španjolskoj. - Hrvatska vina? Dobra su vina tipična i za Španjolsku, ali je istina da se razlikuju od hrvatskih. Hrvatska vina su također dobra. Jedan od mojih suigrača, Nikola Franković, ima vinograde i proizvodi vino. Bio sam u njegovoj kući, a u podrumu smo, naravno, degustirali vina. Donio sam mu vino iz Španjolske pa smo se mijenjali. Zaista je istina je da je hrvatsko vino vrlo dobro. Mislim da je bijelo vino bolje, al stvarno je dobro. - Jeste li bili na Karnevalu? Da, bio sam na karnevalu. Došao mi je brat s dva prijatelja i posjetili smo Karneval. Zapravo smo ostali iznenađeni jer nismo znali koliko je važan, drugi je po veličini u Europi. Jako nam se svidio i iznenadila nas je količina posjetitelja koji dolaze na Karneval, stranaca koji u njemu sudjeluju. Jako su nam se svidjeli zvončari. Znamo da su tipični za ove krajeve. - Kako bi ste opisali grad Rijeku? Proputovali ste cijeli svijet, ima li nešto po čemu je Rijeka drugačija od ostalih gradova u svijetu, što ju čini posebnom? Da mnogo sam putovao, a ono što mi se u Rijeci sviđa, osim ljudi, je obala s puno plaža. Rijeka se proteže duž obale, a okružena je planinama i mnogim malim čarobnim selima i mislim
20-24 INTERVJU.indd 22
talk about water-polo, television broadcasts a number of water-polo matches and to be honest, I am jealous about the way that water-polo is treated in Croatia. - With regard to your arrival to Rijeka. How does Rijeka differ from what you expected before your arrival and what were your first impressions? What I knew when I came to Rijeka was...I am from Barcelona and there are not many cities that can be compared with Barcelona but I was aware that I came here to work and that was not important where I went.....I knew it was not a small town which was confirmed by the 150 thousand inhabitants living there. Finally, I was really surprised as this is a town where you really can find everything. You have a town centre, the Korzo if you want to go for a walk, any restaurant you wish. Istria, which is beautiful as well as its surroundings is also nearby. In fact, here in Rijeka I do not miss anything. My friends came to visit me and were all surprised with how nice it is here. The weather is similar to that in Barcelona. It just rains more here. All my friends and family who have visited me have remained fascinated with the beauty of Rijeka and its surroundings. - In your opinion, what is the nicest place in town, for as much as as you have been able to see? I like the Korzo very much as it is in the town centre but I also like Trsat and Trsat Castle a lot. I think it is beautiful that you can see the whole city and the sea from there. As I already said, Rijeka is a city by the sea, surrounded by mountains. The sea can be seen from various places and this is more than beautiful. - What habits of the local inhabitants in Croatia and Rijeka surprised you that are different from your Spanish ones? It is true that we are very similar. I thought that I would find more differences but consider today’s world quite social so there are not huge differences in lifestyle. There is a small discrepancy in food. Here in Rijeka, which is near Italy, people eat a lot of pasta, gnocchi and other such things. Everything is served with gnocchi or pasta but people also eat a lot of meat. As this is a coastal area, I thought that more fish would be eaten here. When I go to visit my friends, they always prepare typical Croatian food and up till now, I’ve liked everything but prefer gnocchi with goulash and minestrone. And yes, here more desserts are eaten here than in Spain. - Croatian wines? There are many good wines in Spain too, but this is typical. And it is true that they differ from the Croatian ones. Croatian wine is also good. One of my team-mates, Nikola Franković has vineyards and produces wine. I visited him at his house, and we tasted wines in his cellar. I brought him some wine from Spain. We exchanged them. And it is true that Croatian wine is of a very good quality. I personally think the white wines are better, but generally speaking, it is all really good. - Have you visited the Carnival? Yes, I was at the Carnival. My brother came with two friends
5/24/11 12:06:46 AM
23
da je to ono što ovo područje čini lijepim. Tijekom vremena provedenog u Hrvatskoj, posjetio sam Istru, Opatiju naravno, Roč, Hum, Buzet. Gračišće, Nacionalni park Plitvička jezera. Hrvatska je lijepo područje. Ovog ljeta, tijekom 15 slobodnih dana koje imam, planiram s obitelji posjetiti Hrvatsku. - Jeste li počeli učiti hrvatski jezik i do kud ste stigli? Da, hrvatski sam počeo učiti ovog Božića. Pomalo ga učim već 4 mjeseca. Sad već počinjem razumijevati prijatelje kad razgovaraju, a ako mi govore polako mogu im i odgovoriti. Međutim, još uvijek se ne znam baš služiti jezikom. Međutim, s komunikacijom nemam nikakvih problema jer ovdje svi govore ili engleski ili talijanski jezik tako da se osjećam ugodno. - Mnogi koji dođu na bazen Kantridu slažu se da je riječ o jednom od najljepših takvih objekata u svijetu? Kantrida je novi bazen i cijeli kompleks je izvrstan, lijep. I krov se otvara. Blizu je plaže tako da je to dobro i za ljude koji dolaze na utakmice, a cijela instalacija na Kantridi je savršena. Mislim da je zasigurno jedna od najboljih u Europi. - Riječki navijači? Začudilo me što su na svakoj utakmici tribine pune. Bilo nam je važno na teškim utakmicama imati potporu navijača. Treba zahvaliti klubu i gradu što su pribiližili tim ljudima vaterpolo i zahvaljujući njima odlično napredujemo u ovoj sezoni.
20-24 INTERVJU.indd 23
and we visited the Carnival. In fact, we were surprised but liked it a lot. We didn’t have any idea how important it was. The second in Europe but were surprised by the number of visitors coming to the Carnival and the foreigners who take part in it. We liked Zvončari a lot. We know that they are typical for this area and really liked them a lot. - How would you describe the City of Rijeka? You have travelled all around the world, is there anything that makes Rijeka different from other cities in the world or makes it special? Yes, I have travelled a lot but what I like most in Rijeka, besides the people, is its coast with its numerous beaches. Rijeka lies along the coast and is surrounded by mountains and many small beautiful villages, and I find this area beautiful because of it. During the time I have passed in Croatia, I have visited Istra, Opatija of course, Roč, Hum, Buzet, Gračišće and the Plitvice Lakes National Park. Croatia is a lovely place. This summer, during the fornight’s holiday that I have, I plan to visit Croatia with my family. - With regard to the Croatian language, have you started to learn it and what level have you achieved? Yes, I started learning the Croatian language this Christmas. I learnt it for 4 months, slowly. Now when my friends speak I am beginning to understand what are they talking about, and if they speak slowly, I can answer them. But I cannot use the language yet. Nevertheless I do not have any problems in communication as here everybody speaks either English or Italian, so I feel really comfortable.
5/24/11 12:07:17 AM
24
...kraju sam se doista iznenadio jer je to grad u kojem možeš naći sve. Imaš centar grada, Korzo za šetnju, restorane kakve poželiš, blizu je Istra koja je vrlo lijepa kao i sve što ju okružuje. Zapravo mi, tu u Rijeci, ništa ne nedostaje... ...I was really surprised as this is a town where you really can find everything. You have a town centre, the Korzo if you want to go for a walk, any restaurant you wish. Istria, which is beautiful as well as its surroundings is also nearby. In fact, here in Rijeka I do not miss anything... - Many people when they come to the Kantrida swimmingpool agree that this is one of the nicest facilities of its kind in the world. The Kantrida swimming-pool is new and the whole complex is excellent, beautiful. And it has a roof which opens. It is near the beach and this is also good for spectators at the matches and I think the whole set up at Kantrida is perfect. I consider it, undoubtedly, one of the best in Europe. - Fans from Rijeka? I was surprised to see the stands full at every match. It is important for us to have the support of our fans when we play difficult matches. We must thank the club and the city itself because they have brought people closer to water-polo. And it is thanks to them that we are making such a great improvement this season. - Primorje je klub bogate tradicije. Sigurno je lijepo igrati u klubu starom više od stotinu godina, čiji su brojni članovi osvajali odličja na Olimpijskim igrama?
- Primorje is a club with a rich tradition. It is nice to play in a club, that is more than hundred years old, whose numerous members won medals at the Olympic Games.
Istina je da je luksuz igrati za Primorje jer je klub s velikom tradicijom. U njemu su igrali ili igraju mnogi veliki vaterpolski igrači. Lijepo je sve to doživjeti. Prvi sam Španjolac koji igra u Hrvatskoj i svi moji suigrači u Španjolskoj reprezentaciji znaju da mi je dobro ovdje. Više njih bi željelo biti u mojoj koži i doći igrati u Hrvatsku.
It is true that playing for Primorje is a luxury as it is a club with a great tradition. Many great water-polo players have played or are playing at Primorje. And it is amazing to experience it. I am the first Spaniard to play in Croatia. All my team-mates from the Spanish representation know that I have settled in really well here and many of them would like to be in my shoes and come to play in Croatia.
- Imate li vremena za hobije?
- Do you have time for hobbies?
Učim jezike, naravno hrvatski je na prvom mjestu. Učim i talijanski, a i engleski mi se poboljšao. Jako volim čitati i provoditi vrijeme sa suigračima. Uvijek nakon treninga odemo na piće i provodimo vrijeme zajedno, kao ekipa. A ostale slobodne dane uvijek s nekim suigračem odem nešto raditi, nešto posjetiti. Ovdje se ima što za vidjeti i vrlo je lijepo. Volim biti među ljudima, a ljudi su ovdje zaista predivni. Nažalost zbog utakmica i treninga ne stignem baš izlaziti navečer, no nekoliko sam puta izašao sa prijateljima i sviđa mi se i noćni život Rijeke.
I learn languages, first of all Croatian, of course. I am also learning Italian and have also improved my English. I like reading a lot and pass the time with my team-mates. After training sessions we always go to have a drink together, as a team, to spend some time together. And on other free days, I always do something with a group of team-mates, or visit places and I am having a great time. I love to be amongst these beautiful people. Unfortunately, due to matches and training I do not often have time to go out in the evenings, but I did go out a few times with my friends. I like the Rijeka night life very much.
20-24 INTERVJU.indd 24
5/24/11 12:07:34 AM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
MY
K
20-24 INTERVJU.indd 25
5/24/11 12:07:54 AM
26
Novi grad / New city
Projekt povezivanja grada zelenim šetnicama A project to connect the town with green promenades
Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić
Riječke
Rijeka promenades
Utrka s vremenom, gradska vreva i sve veće prometne gužve umaraju mozak, zbog čega nam slabe pamćenje i koncentracija. Iako je ovo svima dobro znani podatak, mnogi često zanemaruju upozorenja stručne javnosti o nužnosti bavljenja fizičkim aktivnostima, pozitivne doživljaje boravka u prirodi koji djeluju na održavanje psihičke ravnoteže i mira, jednako kao i na funkcioniranje našega tijela, posebice kardiovaskularnog i lokomotornog sustava. Nedvojbeno je da šetnje ili planinarenje pomažu ljudima u lakšem suočavanju sa stresom i premošćivanju “emocionalnih tobogana”, jer se osim poboljšanja psihičkog stanja unapređuju i mentalne funkcije. Stoga je prije tri godine u okviru aktivnosti Ureda „Rijeka- Zdravi grad“ grada Rijeke pokrenut projekt „Riječke šetnice“, a u suradnji s udrugama planinara Rijeke "Bazovica", "Duga" i "HT i HP Učka", slijedeći trendove europskih gradova da poboljšaju kvalitetu života svojih građana i turističku
26-29 Setnice.indd 26
šetnice
A race against time, city crowds and ever greater traffic jams are tiring the brain and causing our concentration and memory to weaken. Although this is well known information to all, many people often ignore the warnings of professionals in relation to physical activities and the positive experience of being within nature which have a positive effect on maintaining physical equilibrium and tranquillity, as well as on body functioning, particularly the cardio-vascular and locomotory system. It is without doubt that walks or hiking help people face stress and overcome the emotional more easily as besides the improvement of the physical state the mental functions are also improved. With this in mind, a project known as the “Rijeka promenades” was initiated as part of the Municipality of Rijeka’s Office activities "Rijeka - a healthy town”. This was carried out in collaboration with Rijeka mountaineering associations "Bazovica", "Duga" and "HT and HP Učka", following the trends of other European
5/24/11 12:08:52 AM
27
ponudu. Pješački promet sastavni je dio ukupnog gradskog prometa, tako da i pješaci moraju imati svoj „životni prostor“. Voditeljica Ureda, prof. Irena Deže-Starčević kazala je kako je realizacija riječkih šetnica tek dio kampanje „Rijeka u kretanju“ koja će se održavati pod pokroviteljstvom PLIVE HRVATSKA cijele ove godine, čiji su osnovni ciljevi promocija zdravih stilova života i značaj fizičke aktivnosti, a obuhvaća najveću hrvatsku uličnu utrku „Homo si teć“ i Riječki polumaraton, te niz edukativnih aktivnosti tijekom godine. No, mi ćemo se zadržati na riječkim šetnicama. Naoko skrivenim, poput brojnog industrijskog blaga i atraktivnih lokaliteta tek nedavno otkrivenih javnosti.
Zelene staze Projekt "Riječke šetnice" zamišljen je kao polukružno povezivanje krajnje jugoistočne i krajnje sjeverozapadne točke gradskoga područja, a u konačnici bi trebao obuhvatiti staze dužine oko 50-ak kilometara. Na taj način, označenim putovima, cestama i stazama moći će se pješice stići od Plumbuma na istočnom dijelu grada Rijeke, do Bivia, odnosno Preluka na zapadnom dijelu grada. Ovaj je „prsten“ podijeljen na više dionica i poddionica, a sve počinju i završavaju na autobusnim stanicama gradskog prijevoza, prolazeći kroz najljepše i najzelenije dijelove gradskog područja, te uz brojne povijesne spomenike što ih okružuju, posebice dionica uz kanjon Rječine, gdje se osim prirodnih ljepota, bogatstva f lore i faune, nalaze i stari mlinovi kao vrijedna kulturno-povijesna baština. Na taj "Prsten" bi se povezale
cities to improve the quality of their citizens’ lives as well as the tourist offer. Pedestrian traffic is an integral part of the total city traffic so pedestrians need to have their own ‘living area’. Office Manager, prof Irena Deže – Starčević said that realization of Rijeka promenades is just part of the campaign "Rijeka in movement" that will take place under the sponsorship of PLIVA HRVATSKA and will last throughout the year. The main objectives of this campaign are the promotion of healthy lifestyles and the importance of physical activity and will cover the largest Croatian town race Homo si teć and the Rijeka Half-Marathon as well as a series of educational activities during the year. Nevertheless we will remain on Rijeka's promenades, apparently hidden like the numerous industrial heritage sites and attractive localities, waiting to be discovered by the public.
Green paths The “Rijeka promenades” Project is conceived as a semi-circular connection from the end of the south-eastern and the end of the north-western points of the city area, and will cover paths of around 50 kilometres long. In that way, it will be possible to walk along the marked paths, roads and trails from Plumbum on the eastern side of Rijeka to Bivio and Preluk on its western side. This ‘ring’ is divided into a number of sections and subsections, all of them starting and ending at the local bus stations, passing along the most beautiful and greenest parts of the city, and close to the numerous historical monuments that surround it. A particular section is that along the Rječina canyon where, besides the natural beauties, the wealth of flora and fauna, there are also old mills which are a valuable cultural and historical heritage. Other city promenades starting in the centre will connect to that 'Ring'; for example - from the break-water to Trsat,
26-29 Setnice.indd 27
5/24/11 12:09:32 AM
28
i dodatne gradske šetnice koje počinju u centru; primjerice od lukobrana do Trsata, s Delte do Katarine ili od željezničke stanice do Drenove, gdje se također isprepliću elementi prirode i kulturno-povijesne baštine, kao i "Mlikaričin put" od Orehovice na Hrastenice nazvan po "mlikaricama" koje su nekoć svakodnevno dolazile u Rijeku iz okolnih mjesta prodavati mlijeko i mliječne proizvode. Završna faza uključuje mogućnost da se „Riječke šetnice“ povežu sa šetnicama okolnih općina i gradova, kao i da se trasiraju i izgrade još neke dodatne, od kojih bi vjerojatno najatraktivnija bila ona uz samo korito Rječine. No, za potpunu realizaciju te ideje potrebna su znatna financijska sredstva, jer je riječ o velikom poslu kojeg će biti potrebno provoditi u fazama. U jačanje svijesti o važnosti kretanja za zdravlje, te sporta općenito, radi smanjenja potrošnje lijekova, kao društveno odgovorna kompanija u kampanju „Rijeka u kretanju“ uključila se i 90-godišnja farmaceutska tvrtka Pliva kao glavni sponzor. Gradonačelnik Vojko Obersnel i predsjednik Uprave ove kompanije Matko Bolanča su potpisivanjem Ugovora dogovorili da će Pliva sve do prosinca ove godine sa 330.000 kuna financijski pratiti uređenje nove dionice Riječkih šetnica, brojne manifestacije, okrugle stolove, javne tribine i edukativne akcije, promovirajući zdrav način života kao oblik prevencije niza ozbiljnih bolesti današnjice. Usvajanje zdravih životnih navika prvi je korak ka zdravlju. Dio sponzorskog ugovora realiziran je početkom travnja ove godine otvaranjem prve dionice Riječkih šetnica od Plumbuma preko Donje Vežice, Astronomskog centra Rijeka do Strmice i Trsata, ukupne dužine 11,5 kilometara. Šetnice su osmišljene u svrhu rekreacije, pogodne su za edukaciju, upoznavanje s florom i učenje snalaženja u prostoru, a nedvojbeno je da uvelike obogaćuju i turističku ponudu Rijeke.
26-29 Setnice.indd 28
from Delta to Katarina or from the railway station to Drenova, a part of town where elements of nature and cultural and historical heritage are entwined. Then there is also the Mlikaričin put (Milkmaid’s path) from Orehovica to Hrastenica, named after the mlikarice (milkmaids) who came daily to Rijeka from the surrounding villages in days gone by, daily to sell milk and milk products. The final phase includes the possibility of connecting 'Rijeka's promenades’ with the promenades of other municipalities and towns as well as to determine and construct additional promenades of which, probably, the most attractive will be those along the Rječina riverbed. However, significant financial assets will be necessary to fully complete that idea, as it refers to a huge amount of work that would be performed in different phases. Being in charge of the social side of the company, the pharmaceutical company Pliva with its 90-year-old tradition has decided to take part in the “Rijeka in movement" campaign as its main sponsor, to help strengthen the awareness of the importance of movement for health and sport in general, with the purpose of diminishing the consumption of drugs. Until December 2011, according to the Agreement signed by mayor, Vojko Obersnel and Pliva CEO, Matko Bolanča, Pliva will finance the setting up of the new section of Rijeka promenades, numerous events, round tables, public discussions and educational activities, promoting a healthy lifestyle as a form of prevention of many of today’s serious diseases. Acquiring healthy living habits is the first step towards a healthy life. Part of the sponsorship agreement was carried out at the beginning of April this year, by opening the first section of Rijeka promenades from Plumbum, through Donja Vežica, the Astronomy Centre of Rijeka to Strmica and Trsat, with a total length of 11.5 kilometres. Promenades were conceived for recreational purposes, and are suitable for didactic purpoes, to familiarize both children and adults with f lora and
5/24/11 12:11:22 AM
29
learning orientation in space but there is no doubt that they also enrich the Rijeka tourist offer.
Promenades for all Two sections (Veli Vrh and Preluk-Bivio) have been set up in such a way that they can be used by disabled people as well. The start of the Promenade that is in the first section goes from Plumbum, to Donja and Gornja Vežica, Sveti križ and Strmica to Trsat whilst the paths that are subsections bear the recognizable names of autochthonous coastal plants such as the Pine and heather path (Donja Vežica - Gornja Vežica), the Common maple and mallow path (Gornja Vežica - Sveti Križ), the Ash-tree and dog-rose path (Sveti Križ - Sveta Ana), the Oak-tree and garden-sage path (Sveta Ana - Strmica – Trsat). The most attractive part of this section is undoubtedly the Sv. Križ hill from which a beautiful view extends over the whole Kvarner bay and there is also the Astronomy Centre Rijeka. It should be emphasized that all of the aforementioned paths are linked to well known hiking paths. Students from the Science High School from Rijeka, together with their tutors from the Municipality of Rijeka and mountaineering associations have marked subsections from Plumbum to Sv. Križ whilst the subsections from Sv. Križ to Trsat have been marked by members of the Duga mountaineering association and employees of the Municipal Department for urbanistic, ecological and land administration development. The information tables of the first section and its subsections as well as banks and rubbish bins have already been mounted. The setting up of the second section of the Rijeka promenades, from Trsat to Orehovica is underway. This section ‘visits' the Trsat sanctuary and Trsat castle, providing the walker with enjoyment amongst the natural, historical and sacral beauties of the city of Rijeka
Šetnice za svih Dvije dionice (Veli vrh i Preluk-Bivio) su osmišljene kako bi ih mogli koristiti i osobe s posebnim potrebama. Početak Šetnica, odnosno prva dionica, kreće od Plumbuma, preko Donje i Gornje Vežice, Svetog križa i Strmice do Trsata, a staze tj. poddionice nose prepoznatljive nazive autohtonog primorskog raslinja Staza bora i vrijeska (Donja Vežica - Gornja Vežica), Staza klena i sljeza (Gornja Vežica - Sveti Križ), Staza jasena i šipka (Sveti Križ - Sveta Ana), Staza hrasta i kadulje (Sveta Ana - Strmica – Trsat). Najatraktivniji dio ove dionice svakako je brdo Sv. Križ s kojeg se pruža prekrasan pogled na cijeli Kvarner, gdje je smješten i Astronomski centar Rijeka. Za istaknuti je da se sve staze potom nadovezuju na poznate planinarske staze. Učenici Prirodoslovno-grafičke škole iz Rijeke, zajedno s mentorima iz Grada Rijeke i planinarskih društava označili su pod dionice od Plumbuma do Sv. Križa, dok su pod dionice od Sv. Križa do Trsata označili članovi Planinarskog društva "Duga" i djelatnici Odjela gradske uprave za razvoj, urbanizam, ekologiju i gospodarenje zemljištem. Postavljene su informativne ploče prve dionice i njenih poddionica, kao i klupe i košarice za otpatke. U pripremi je i uređenje druge dionice Riječkih šetnica koja ide od Trsata do Orehovice. Ona na svom putu "obilazi" i Trsatsko svetište, te Trsatsku gradinu, pružajući šetaču uživanje u prirodnim kao i u povijesnim i sakralnim ljepotama grada Rijeke.
26-29 Setnice.indd 29
5/24/11 12:12:45 AM
30
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Mašenka Vukadinović Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić
Voda u Rijeci nadaleko je poznata po kvaliteti The water in Rijeka is widely known for its quality
S izvora
u čašu
From the spring to the glass 30-33 riječka voda.indd 30
5/24/11 12:14:14 AM
31
S njom počinjemo i završavamo dan. Sjetimo je se kad smo žedni ili kad nam je na umu topla kupka. Obično je uzimamo zdravo za gotovo. I kako to obično biva u životu, znamo koliko nam nešto nedostaje, kad to izostane. Primjerice, čim zateknemo obavijest neće biti vode u vremenu od… Naše drage slavine se sjetimo i u sušnim ljetima, kupajući se na otocima gdje je voda zlato. Naravno i kad potrošimo desetke eura pijući običnu vodu iz plastičnih bočica po europskim metropolama. Tko god je kušao kapljice talijanske, španjolske, francuske vode, zna cijeniti okus i miris riječke vode. Pitku vodu danas je u svijetu moguće dovesti i usred goleme pustinje. I zbog toga, Viva Las Vegas! No, veći problem od tehnologije vodoopskrbe predstavlja smanjenje broja prirodnih izvora vode. Cipar i Malta, primjerice, imaju najmanje raspoloživih izvora vode u Evropi i desaliniziraju najviše vode po glavi stanovnika. Stručnjaci već godinama upozoravaju da će voda postati najznačajniji resurs budućnosti. I baš stoga vrijedi podsjetiti da je Hrvatska među trideset vodom najbogatijih zemalja u svijetu, a Rijeka jedan od rijetkih gradova koji u samome središtu ima izvor pitke vode.
Od perila do javne vodoopskrbe U prošlosti se Rijeka razvijala na potocima koji su izvirali u samom gradu. Rječina je relativno mala krška rijeka – duga svega 17,5 km, čije ušće je od početaka služilo kao prirodna luka, a obližnji snažni i nepresušni izvor Zvir osiguravao stalnost toka Rječine do ušća. Iz povijesti grada poznato je da se u samom centru nalazi 16 izvora koji utječu u Rječinu. U srednjovjekovnom gradu opasanom zidinama, stanovništvo se opskrbljivalo vodom iz vlastitih bunara koji su bili iskapani u samim kućama ( jedan takav bunar sačuvan je i danas unutar zgrade Restauratorskog zavoda). Prije javnog vodovoda i vodovodne mreže, riječka je voda stizala iz vodotoka Lešnjak, Žudinka, Andrejščica te onih po kojima nose naziv današnja naselja, Žabica, Beli kamik, Brajda, Potok, Mlaka. Na više mjesta u gradu, pored izvora, postojala su javna perila. Ta su korita bila mjesta okupljanja riječkih pralja. Osim zbog pranja rublja i druženja te velikog protoka informacija. Stoga je dolaskom vodoopskrbe mnogima i društveni život osiromašio jer su perila ili jazovi polako postajali prošlost. U nekadašnjoj Tvorničkoj ulici (danas Ružićeva ulica na lijevoj obali Rječine) 1885. godine nastaje prva javna vodoopskrba s cjevovodom na središnjem dijelu Sušaka. Izgradnjom prvog javnog riječkog vodovoda, 1894. godine stanovnicima Rijeke voda je dovedena u dvorišta i domove. Na najprometnijim dijelovima grada, kao objekti komunalne higijene, podizane su javne slavine od kojih su sačuvani tek nacrti koji se danas nalaze u Povijesnom arhivu Rijeke. Današnji riječki vodovod se po broju vodoopskrbnih objekata ubraja među najsloženije u Hrvatskoj, a po količini isporučene vode na trećem je mjestu (iza Zagreba i Splita). Broj crpnih stanica, sadržaj vodosprema, dužina vodovodne mreže i broj priključaka na vodovod od 1970. do danas gotovo je utrostručen.
30-33 riječka voda.indd 31
We begin and end our day with it. We remember it when we are thirsty or when we imagine a warm bath. We usually take it for granted. And as usually happens in life, we only become aware of how much we need something when we do not have it anymore. For example, when we find a notification „you will not have water in the period from....". We think about our precious taps even during the dry summers, bathing on those islands where water is considered pure gold. We also think about it when we spend a few euros drinking normal water from plastic bottles around the European capitals. Anybody who has tasted drops of Italian, Spanish or French water knows how to appreciate the taste and flavour of Rijeka’s water. It is possible to bring drinkable water anywhere in the world, even in the middle of a huge desert. And because of that, Viva Las Vegas! But the technology of supplying water is a minor problem when we consider the diminishing natural sources of water. Cyprus and Malta, for example, have the smallest available water resources in Europe and desalinate the highest quantity of water pro capita. Experts have been warning us for years that water will soon become the most important resource of the future and this is why it is worth remembering that Croatia is one of the thirty countries in the world with the richest water resources, whilst Rijeka is one of the rare cities whose water spring is located right in the heart of its city centre.
From the laundry to the public water supply In the past, Rijeka developed around springs that rose in the town. Rječina, a relatively small karst river – that is only
5/24/11 12:14:40 AM
32
Tamo gdje se rađaju riječke kapljice… U jelenjskome kraju, poznatom po jednom od posljednjih mlinova na Kvaneru, mjestu gdje priroda privlači mnoge ribiče, protječe svojim izvorom i gornjim tokom Rječina. Izvor Rječine jedini je izvor iznad razine mora, svi ostali su priobalni. Dio sliva koji se proteže sjeverozapadnim rubom Grobničkog polja, izvorište je Martinšćice. Iznad Bakra je izvor Perilo, a između Bakra i Bakarca, na 5 m nadmorske visine su Dobra i Dobrica. Zvir je najizdašnije izvorište na području Rijeke i njegovom se vodom opskrbljuje riječki prsten od desne obale Rječine sve do Opatije, uz mogućnost opskrbe cijelog vodoopskrbnog područja Rijeke. To je snažno krško vrelo udaljeno 1700 m od mora, na svega 4,7 m nadmorske visine. Voda nadolazi iz ljevkaste udubine koja ulazi u stjenovitu padinu brda Sv. Katarina i stvara mirno jezerce koje na južnoj strani otječe u korito Rječine. U ljetnim mjesecima izdašni izvori vodoopskrbom snadbijevaju oko 300.000 stanovnika i turista.
Zašto kažu da će se vratiti onaj tko se jednom napije riječke vode? Svjetska zdravstvena organizacija procjenjuje da približno 80% svih bolesti nastaje zbog nečiste vode za piće. Uostalom voda čini i otprilike 70% našeg tijela. Put do pitke vode od izvorišta do slavina, nerijetko poskupljuju financijski i tehnički napori pročišćavanja iste, osobito ako je riječ o teškim metalima. Budući da je naše znanje o svim štetnim utjecajima tih tvari još nepotpuno, mnogi smatraju da je i ta mala količina štetnih tvari potencijalno opasna. Riječka voda je po svojim fizikalno-kemijskim svojstvima izuzetne kvalitete i pitkosti i osim dezinfekcije klor-dioksidom je nije potrebno dodatno prerađivati. Voda koja se
17.5 km long, whose mouth from the beginning was used as a natural port whilst the nearby powerful and inexhaustible Zvir spring ensured the continuity of the Rječina River to the mouth. From historical facts relating to the town, we know that there are 16 springs in the heart of the town that have become affluents of the Rječina. In the fortified medieval town, citizens were supplied with water from their own water-wells, dug inside their houses (one such water-well was preserved inside the building of the Restoring Institute). Before the public waterworks and water supply network, Rijeka's water came from the Lešnjak, Žudinka, Andrejščica watercourses and also from sources from which the following villages take their names: Žabica, Beli kamik, Brajda, Potok, Mlaka. There were public laundries near the springs at different points in the town. Those water channels were a gathering place for Rijeka's laundresses. It was not only for washing laundry, but also for company and for the passing of information. Once the public water supply arrived, the social life of many of them was impoverished when those laundries or water channels slowly becoming something of the past. In the former Tvornička Street (today known as Ružićeva Street, on the Rječina’s left bank), in 1885 the first public water supply began working with a pipe-line, in the central part of Sušak. Following construction of Rijeka’s first waterworks in 1894, Rijeka citizens had water in their homes and courtyards. Public taps were constructed on the busiest parts of the town as part of the utility hygiene services, of which only sketches have remained and can be found in the Rijeka Historical Archive. Today Rijeka’s waterworks is considered the most complex with regard to the number of its water supply facilities, whilst for the quantity of water supplied, it is at third place (after Zagreb and Split). The number of pump stations, water reservoirs, the length of the water supply network and the number of connections to the water supply has almost tripled since 1970.
There where the Rijeka’s drops are born... In the area of Jelenje, well known for one of the last mills in Kvarner, a place where nature attracts many fishermen, there is a spring and the upper flow of the Rječina River. The Rječnina's spring is the only spring above sea level, all other are coastal. Part of the river-basin extends along the north-western edge of the Grobnik field where we can find the Martinšćica spring. The Perilo spring is located under Bakar whilst between Bakar and Bakarac, at an altitude of 5m are the Dobra and the Dobrica springs. Zvir is the richest spring in the Rijeka area and water from it supplies the Rijeka zone from the right bank of the Rječina to Opatija, but it also has the capacity of supplying water to the entire Rijeka zone. It is a powerful karst spring comes from a funnel-shaped hollow which enters the rocky slope of St Catherine’s hill, creating a small, calm lake whose southern part distils to the Rječina's bed.
30-33 riječka voda.indd 32
5/24/11 12:15:03 AM
33
Rich water springs in the summer months supply water to around 300 000 citizens and tourists.
Why is it said that anyone who has drunk Rijeka’s water will surely return? The World Health Organization estimates that approximately 80% of all diseases occur because of impure drinking water. Moreover, our body is made up of 70% water. The cost of getting potable water, from the spring to the taps, often rises due to the financial and technical efforts of purification, especially if it concerns heavy metals. As we yet have a scarce knowledge about the harmful impact of these substances, many consider even a small quantity of harmful substances to be potentially dangerous. Rijeka's water is of a high quality both for its physical and chemical characteristics, and is very drinkable with there being no need for processing apart from disinfection by means of chlorine dioxide. Water delivered to consumers is within the limits of sanitary regulations related to drinking water that are more rigorous than those in the EU.
isporučuje potrošačima je u skladu sa sanitarnim propisima koji se odnose na vodu za piće, a koji su stroži nego oni EU. Pitka riječka voda pod strogom je kontrolom kvalitete. U novouređenom laboratoriju riječkog Vodovoda i kanalizacije, sedmoro laboranata svakodnevno analizira 20-ak uzoraka pitke vode te ispituje organoleptičke, fizikalnokemijske i mikrobiološke osobine i svojstva vode. VIK-u je nedavno uručen certifikat za sustav upravljanja zdravljem i sigurnošću u radu kojim su udovoljili strogim zahtjevima međunarodne forme OHSAS 18001:2007. Certificiranje je provela kontrolna kuća Bureau Veritas.
Riječka voda via Perzijski zaljev Pitka voda otvara gospodarska vrata. Prije tri godine je suša prisilila Španjolsku da uvozi vodu iz Francuske. Turska je izvoz vode dogovorila sa Izraelom. Izraelci će na godinu kupovati 50 milijuna kubičnih metara vode. Prije pet godina, na 200 metara od riječkog izvorišta, rad je započela riječka punionica „Zvir“. Riječka „Vira“ crpi se ispod površine izvora do kojeg dotječe podzemnim putovima iz dubinskih bazena koji su sačuvali netaknutost vode najšumovitijeg i ekološki najčišćeg dijela Hrvatske – Gorskoga kotara, od kud se ponirući slijeva u izvor Zvir i izravno puni u praktičnu ambalažu. Punionica je potpisala višegodišnji ugovor s inozemnim partnerom pa će se od lipnja 2011. godišnje izvoziti približno tri milijuna litara vode „Vira“ na tržišita Saudijske Arabije, Ujedinjenih Arapskih Emirata, Omana, Kuvajta, Katra i Bahreina. Posao je ugovoren na deset godina, a presudili su mogućnosti transporta i kvaliteta riječke vode. Inače, Arapi tradicionalno piju čaj od metvice za muževnost ali i simbolično, u znak ljubavi i prijateljstva. Pa eto, možda netko zakuha metvicu i s riječkom vodom. Kako bilo da bilo, svim ljubiteljima riječke vode, uzdravlje!
30-33 riječka voda.indd 33
The quality of Rijeka’s drinking water is strictly controlled. In the newly equipped laboratory of Rijeka’s Vodovod and kanalizacija Company, seven laboratory technicians analyse around 20 samples of drinking water daily and examine the organoleptic, physical, chemical and microbiological characteristics as well as the water features. The ViK has recently been issued with a certificate for Occupational health and safety management systems in accordance with the rigid requirements of the international standard OHSAS 18001:2007, from the Bureau Veritas certification company.
Rijeka’s water to the Persian Bay Drinking water opens an economic port. Three years ago, drought forced Spain to import water from France. Turkey made an agreement with Israel to export water. Israel annually buys around 50 million cubic metres of water. Five years ago, around 200 metres from Rijeka's water source, the “Zvir” bottling facility began working. Rijeka’s “Vira” is extracted from under the spring’s surface where it comes through subterranean basins which preserve the water from a number of environmental impacts. So this water comes from the most wooded and ecologically pure Croatian areas - Gorski kotar, from where it trickles to the Zvir source and is bottled directly into suitable packaging. The bottling facility has stipulated a multiannual contract with a foreign partner and so from June 2011, around three million litres of “Vira” water will be exported annually to the Saudi Arabian, the UAE, the Oman, Kuwaiti, the Katar and to the Bahrain markets. The contract has duration of ten years whilst the key competitive advantages were the transport possibilities and quality of Rijeka's water. Arabs traditionally drink mint tea both for their masculinity but also symbolically, in the name of love and friendship. So, perhaps some of them will prepare mint tea with Rijeka water. In any case, to all those who love Rijeka's water, cheers!
5/24/11 12:15:14 AM
34
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Lidija Šušak Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić
Plaže u Rijeci nude više od kupanja Beaches in Rijeka offer more than just bathing
Oaze rasute
gradskom obalom Oases that spread out along the city coast
34-38 PLAZE.indd 34
5/24/11 12:16:17 AM
35
More u Rijeci svake je godine sve čišće, a plaže sve uređenije. Nakon dugo godina Riječani će se od ovoga ljeta moći kupati i na jednoj novoj plaži. Sredinom travnja uređena je nova riječka plaža ispod Bazena na Kantridi, a već je tada ponijela titulu najljepše riječke plaže. Da bi otvorili sezonu kupanja, najhrabriji kupači nisu čekali ljeto nego su je "krstili " već u travnju.
Za svakoga ponešto Sama plaža je dugačka 350 metara, a na sedam tisuća novouređenih četvornih metara smjestio se niz bogatih sadržaja koji je, što je najbitnije, dostupan svima. Plaža na kojoj će se moći kupati nekoliko tisuća kupača ima sve ono što prava plaža mora imati - tuševe, kabine za presvlačenje, sanitarije, pješčanik za djecu, uređeno igralište za odbojku na pijesku te ugostiteljski objekt. Kod uređenja plaže vodilo se računa da svi sadržaji kao i ulaz u more budu prilagođeni i osobama s invaliditetom. Završni pečat plaža će dobiti postavljanjem ležaljki koje će čekati službeni početak ljeta. A do tad će porasti i posađeno mediteransko bilje koje će, kad procvate, cijelom području dati pravi mediteranski štih.
Za svako godišnje doba Dok ne počne prava sezona kupanja, Riječani plažu, točnije betoniranu šetnicu iznad plaže, koriste za šetnju, bicikliranje, rolanje i trčanje.Tako da će plaža i šetnica svoje posjetitelje imati tijekom cijele godine, a ne samo ljeti. U večernjim satima plaža je postala okupljalište mladih te se očekuje da će noću biti popunjena kao i danju.
34-38 PLAZE.indd 35
The sea in Rijeka is cleaner every year and the beaches are better equipped. After many years, from this summer, Rijeka citizens will have the opportunity of bathing on a new beach. In the middle of April, Rijeka’s beach under the Swimmingpool on Kantrida was newly equipped, earning the title of the most beautiful beach in Rijeka. The braver swimmers haven’t waited for summer to open the bathing season, but ‘christened’ it in April.
Something for everybody The beach is 350 metres long, whilst on the newly equipped seven thousand square metres, there are numerous facilities which should mentioned, are available to everybody. It is a beach where a few thousand swimmers will be able to bathe, with all the facilities that only a real beach can have – showers, dressing rooms, sanitary facilities, sandpits for children, a sandy volleyball area and a catering facility. When equipping the beach, care was taken so that all facilities would be tailored for disabled people particularly entrance to the sea. The final touches will be given by placing the desk chairs which are waiting for the official start of summer. Until then the already planted Mediterranean herbs will have time to grow and when in bloom, will give the area a real Mediterranean atmosphere.
For every season Until the bathing season starts, Rijeka’s citizens can use the beach, or more precisely the concrete surface above it, for walking, cycling, rollerblading and running. So, the beach and
5/24/11 12:16:58 AM
36
Plaža Kantrida i Villa Nora Kantrida polako postaje kupališni centar Rijeke. Uz novu plažu smještenu ispod bazena čije će čari Riječani i njihovi gosti tek početi otkrivati ovog ljeta, na Kantridi su smještene još dvije velike plaže. Plaža Villa Nora u neposrednoj je blizini nove plaže, a ime je dobila po vili sagrađenoj prije 100-tinjak godina. Riječ je o šljunčano betonskoj plaži kojoj posebnu draž daju stijene. Plaža ima i pripadajući zeleni pojas, u čijem se hladu za vrelih ljetnih dana kupači sklanjaju od sunca. Na plaži se nalaze kafić, tobogan i kabine za presvlačenje. Plaža Kantrida u neposrednoj blizini stadiona Kantrida je šljunčana plaža, na kojoj se također nalaze ugostiteljski sadržaji. Brojni navijači nogometnog kluba Rijeke nerijetko su pobjede svoje momčadi proslavljali upravo na ovoj plaži.
Bivio i Pećine Osim plaža na Kantridi, Rijeka ima još nekoliko vrlo lijepih plaža. Najpoznatije riječke plaže nalaze na istočnom dijelu
Dakle na riječkim plažama danju se kupate, a uvečer kupaći kostim zamijenite svečanijim odijelom i na istom mjestu od kupača postajete kazališni gledatelj. Moguće jedino u Rijeci! So, on Rijeka' beaches you bath during the day and in evening, change your bathing suit, jump into your evening dress and at the same place, you will transform from a bather to the theatre visitor. It is only possible in Rijeka!
34-38 PLAZE.indd 36
the seafront area will be visited throughout the year, not only during the summer months. In the evening hours, the beach will become a gathering place for young people, so it is expected that the night hours will be as crowded as during the day.
Kantrida beach and Villa Nora Little by little, Kantrida is becoming Rijeka’s bathing centre. Besides the new beach situated below the swimming-pool, whose charm Rijeka’s citizens and their guests will be able to discover this summer, there are two more large beaches on Kantrida. Villa Nora’s beach found its place in the immediate vicinity of the new beach, and it carries the name of a villa built there around 100 years ago. It regards a combination of pebble and concrete surface beach, with rocks providing it with its own particular charm. The beach is surrounded by a greenbelt area where swimmers can shade themselves from the sun during the hot summer days. There is a bar, a slide and a dressing room. Kantrida beach, in the immediate vicininty of the Kantrida Stadium is a pebble beach with a number of catering facilities. Numerous Rijeka FC supporters have often celebrated victories of their club on this beach.
Bivio and Pećine Besides the beaches at Kantrida, Rijeka has another few very nice beaches. The most famous beaches in Rijeka are situated in the eastern part of the city, in the Pećine quarter and on the western part, in the Bivio district. Pećine is a huge bathing-establishment which consists of a number of smaller, although not communal beaches. Guests can choose these smaller and more intimate beaches, where the
5/24/11 12:17:44 AM
37
grada na Pećinama, a na zapadu na Biviju. Pećine su veliko gradsko kupalište koje čini više manjih, međusobno nepovezanih, plaža. Možete birati između manjih i intimnijih čija je glavna prednost mir i izoliranost do onih većih i “bučnijih” koje nude brojne sadržaje. Možete tako unajmiti ležaljke ili suncobrane ili se osvježiti u nekom od kafića na plaži. Bivio je gradsko kupalište sa puno malih plaža od kojih su neke betonirane, neke prekrivene kamenčićima. Od Bivija do Costabele plaže su povezane šetnicom. S jedne strane morem, s druge strane šumom.
Plaža Kostanj Jedna od brojnih plaža na području Bivija posebno je prilagođena invalidnim osobama, postavljena je rampa za silazak u more, a parking je osiguran čak i tijekom ljetne sezone. Riječ je o plaži Kostanj, jedinoj plaži u Hrvatskoj koja je opremljena za osobe s invaliditetom, a što se opremljenosti tiče jedna je od najopremljenijih plaža tog tipa na Mediteranu. Plaža je smještena uz šetalište u uvali Kostanj, između Bivija i uvale Preluk. Plaža nije zatvorenoga tipa, stoga se i ostali koriste plažom uz uvažavanje kućnog reda. To je također jedina riječka plaža na kojoj kupače drže na oku spasioci. Plaža Kostanj je dovršena i prilagođena osobama s invaliditetom u srpnju 1985. godine. Prva je riječka plaža na kojoj je podignuta plava zastava i to u lipnju prošle godine. Na samoj teritorijalnoj granici Rijeke i Opatije smjestila se
34-38 PLAZE.indd 37
main advantage is tranquillity and isolation or the larger and noisier ones with a number of amenities and facilities, where they can even rent deck-chairs and umbrellas, or refresh in one of the beach bars. Bivio is a bathing-establishment with many small beaches of which some have concrete surfaces and others are covered with pebbles. The beaches from Bivio to Costabela are connected by the seafront. With the sea to one side and woodland to the other.
Kostanj beach One of the numerous beaches in the Bivio area has been especially equipped for disabled people, with a gate for entrance to the sea and with a special parking area even during the summer season. This is the Kostanj beach, which is the only beach in Croatia to be equipped with for disabled people and it is also the best equipped beach of its kind in the Mediterranean area. It is situated close to the seafront in the Kostanj cove, between Bivio and Preluk Bay. The beach is not closed so anybody can use it but must adhere to beach rules. It is the only beach in Rijeka where swimmers are monitored by a lifeguard. Kostanj beach was completed and adjusted for disabled people in July 1985. Kostanj beach was also the first beach in Rijeka to have the Blue flag in June of the last year. On the border between Rijeka and Opatija is the Preluk beach. A sandy beach that is part of the Preluk auto camp but is also available to everybody.
5/24/11 12:18:05 AM
38
plaža Preluk. Pješčana plaža nalazi se u sklopu autokampa Preluk, no dostupna je svima.
Sušak kupališno mjesto A u prošlosti, Riječani su se kupali na Sušaku, što je danas teško zamislivo. Godine 1889. sagrađeno je morsko kupalište na Brajdici koje 15-tak godina kasnije postaje pravo gradsko kupalište koje su pohodili i Riječani i Sušačani. U to vrijeme je na Pećinama otvoreno Reschovo kupalište, a na posjedu braće Sablić uređeno kupalište Sablićevo. Tih godina je Sušak slovio za kupališno mjesto. Gradsko kupalište na Brajdici je u potpunosti obnovljeno i modernizirano 1925. godine, a kupalište je postalo središte sportskog i društvenog života Sušaka.
Plaža kao pozornica Zadnjih nekoliko godina riječke plaže se, nakon zalaska sunca, preobražavaju u kazališne pozornice na kojima se izvodi kulturni program festivala Riječke ljetne noći. Tako je plaža Kantrida godinama bila kulisa predstave “Mirisi, zlato i tamjan”. ”Lukrecija o bimo rekli Požeruh” na plaži Glavanovo na Pećinama također se izvodila godinama, a Riječani, ali i svi koji se zateknu u Rijeci početkom srpnja moći će je ponovno pogledati. Prošle godine je na plaži na Pećinama, ispod bivšeg hotela Park izveden “Cirkus Destetika”. Ovog ljeta će s istog mjesta dopirati zvuk serenada, a bit će izvedena još jedna nova predstava. Dakle na riječkim plažama danju se kupate, a uvečer kupaći kostim zamijenite svečanijim odijelom i na istom mjestu od kupača postajete kazališni gledatelj. Moguće jedino u Rijeci!
34-38 PLAZE.indd 38
Bathing place Sušak Today it is hard to imagine that in the past, Rijeka's citizens used to bathe on Sušak. In 1889 the first sea bathing area was built on Brajdica, which around 15 years later became a true bathing-establishment, visited by Rijeka and Sušak citizens. In that period, Resch's bathing place was opened at Pećine whilst a bathing area known as Sablićevo was set up on the property of the Sablić brothers. In those days, Sušak was considered a bathing area. In 1925, the bathing-establishment at Brajdica was completely renewed and modernized and become the centre of sport and social life on Sušak.
Beach as a stage In the last few years, after the sun goes down, Rijeka’s beaches transform into theatre stages where the Rijeka Summer Nights festival program is performed. So for years the Kantrida beach was the backdrop for the performance “Mirisi, zlato i tamjan” (Odours, gold and frankincense). On Glavanovo beach, a performance known as ”Lukrecija o bimo rekli Požeruh” has been performed for years but all Rijeka citizens and those who find themselves in the city at the beginning of July, will have the opportunity of seeing it. Last year, a performance “Cirkus Destetika” was done on the beach below the former Park hotel at Pećine. This year, from the same place, sounds of serenades will be heard but a new performance will also be taking place. So, on Rijeka's beaches you can bathe during the day and in the evening, change out of your bathing suit and jump into your evening dress and in the same place, you will be transformed from a bather to a theatre goer. This is only possible in Rijeka!
5/24/11 12:18:38 AM
www.diners.com.hr info telefon: 01 4929 555
Nema tog mjesta gdje Vas Diners neće razveseliti. Jedini besplatni nagradni program
Svaka kupnja Diners Club karticom Vaš je korak bliže vrijednim nagradama. Sudjelujte u nagradnom programu “dinersirano za vas” i sakupljajte nagradne bodove. Bodove zamijenite za darove, donacije humanitarnim udrugama ili loyalty bodove na Loyalty kartici i nagradite se kupnjom po želji na prodajnim mjestima širom Hrvatske. Zatražite svoju Diners Club karticu bez upisnine i članarine za prvu godinu članstva. Isplati se koristiti Diners karticu. Gdje god bili, Vi PRIPADATE. 34-38 PLAZE.indd 39
5/24/11 12:18:58 AM
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Andrea Bralić Marić Fotografije / Photos: Medico Promotivni članak/PR article
Dnevna bolnica Poliklinike Medico / Medico Polyclinics’ Daily Hospital
Urbani
zdravstveni turizam
Urban health tourism
U jednom danu, na jednom mjestu – slogan riječke Poliklinike Medico već dvadeset godina olakšava svakodnevicu brojnim pacijentima s misijom Zadovoljstvo pacijenata našom uslugom, naš je primarni cilj. Sa svojim stručnim timom, kao najveći pružatelj privatne medicinske usluge u Primorsko–goranskoj, Istarskoj te Ličko-senjskoj županiji, u prva su dva desetljeća obavili pola milijuna pregleda. Od studenog 2007. godine vlasnik Poliklinike je Basler osiguranje Zagreb koje upravo na primjeru riječkog Medica gradi visoko kvalitetne standarde u zdravstvu.
In one day, in one place – the slogan of Rijeka’s Medico Polyclinics that has been facilitating the day-to-day life of numerous patients for twenty years already. They follow their mission “The Patients' satisfaction with our services is our main objective". Being the largest provider of private medical care services in the Primorje and Gorski kotar, Istrian and Lika and Senj County area, in its first two decades its professional team has carried out more than half a million examinations. Basler osiguranje Zagreb has been the owner since November 2007, establishing high quality standards in the health care system following Medico's example.
U istom danu moguće je obaviti klinički pregled, laboratorijsku dijagnostiku, različite specijalističke preglede uz dobivanje završnog mišljenja i prijedloga o daljnjem tijeku liječenja.
Within the same day patients can have a clinical examination, laboratory diagnostics, a number of specialist examinations followed by the final medical opinion and a proposal in relation to the further progress of treatment.
Poliklinika Medico pruža medicinske usluge iz područja radiologije, dermatologije i venerologije, gastroenterologije, pulmologije, kardiologije, nefrologije, ginekologije, urologije, oftalmologije, ortopedije, otorinolaringologije, kirurgije, endokrinologije, hematologije, reumatologije i fizijatrije te anesteziologije. U sklopu Poliklinike nalazi se potpuno opremljeni suvremeni medicinsko-biokemijski laboratorij u kojem je moguće brzo i kvalitetno obaviti veliki broj pretraga. Prošle je godine poliklinika preselila u modernu, atraktivnu zgradu u samom centru Rijeke, u Agatićevoj ulici. U novi zdravstveni kompleks uloženo je 120 milijuna kuna, a od tada se nudi i usluga dnevne bolnice s operacijskim blokom, u sklopu koje se provodi operacijsko liječenje u sedaciji, regionalnoj i općoj anesteziji, kao i dnevna terapija. U prvoj godini rada u
40-41 Medico 2.indd 40
Medico Polyclinics offers medical services in the following fields: radiology, dermatology, venereology, gastroenterology, pulmonology, cardiology, nephrology, gynaecology, urology, ophthalmology, orthopedy, otorhinolaryngology, surgery, endocrinology, haematology, rheumatology and physiatry and anaesthesiology. At Polyclinics there is a fully equipped modern medical and biochemical laboratory where it is possible to undergo a large number of tests in the shortest time possible and in a quality way. Last year Polyclinics moved to a modern, attractive building situated in the heart of Rijeka, in Agatićeva Street. Around 120 million Kuna were invested in this new medical complex which has enabled it to provide a new service – a day hospital with a surgical department where surgical treatment under sedation and partial and complete
5/24/11 12:21:41 AM
41
dnevnoj bolnici obavljeno je preko 500 zahvata. Poliklinika Medico prostire se na tri kata, gdje se na 2.200 četvornih metara pacijentima pruža mogućnost brojnih specijalističkih pregleda, jednostavnijih operativnih zahvata i jednodnevne hospitalizacije u okviru dnevne bolnice. Na prvom katu poliklinike nalaze se laboratorij i digitalna radiološka dijagnostika poput magnetske rezonance, CT-a, mamografa i rendgen uređaja. Specijalističke ordinacije smještene su na drugom katu zgrade, a na trećem katu nalazi se uprava poliklinike i operacijski blok koji je namijenjen izvođenju minimalno invazivnih zahvata. Operacijski blok s dnevnom bolnicom prostire se na 170 četvornih metara, a uz dvije operacijske dvorane pacijentima je na raspolaganju i sedam kreveta čime im je omogućena hospitalizacija u trajanju do jednog dana. Kada se svemu ovome pridoda iskustvo, stručnost i znanje pedesetak zaposlenika, najmodernija dijagnostička oprema i individualan pristup, onda se sa sigurnošću može računati na vrhunsku medicinsku uslugu. Više informacija na www.medico.hr ili +385 (51) 263-109
anaesthesia, as well as day therapy are performed. More than 500 surgical treatments were performed in the first year of the day hospital. Medico Polyclinics extends over three floors where on 2200 squaqre metres patients are provided with numerous specialist examinations, smaller surgical interventions and one-day hospitalisation within the day hospital’s premises. On the first floor is a laboratory and digital radiology diagnostics such as magnetic resonance, CT scan, mammography and X–rays. The medical specialists’ ofices are located on the second f loor whilst on the third f loor are its management and surgical departments for the performance of minimally invasive interventions. The Surgical department together with the day hospital extends over 170 square metres where besides the two operating theatres, patients have seven beds at their disposal which allows them to be hospitalized for one day. When experience, professionalism and knowledge of around fifty employees, stateof-the-art diagnostics equipment and an individual patient approach are added to all of this, clients can certainly count on the highest quality medical care. Further information is available on www. medico.hr or by calling +385 (51) 263-109
40-41 Medico 2.indd 41
Oko dvije trećine zahvata u svim specijalnostima moguće je obaviti u okviru Medicove dnevne bolnice, a među njima su: otvorene i endoskopske operacije u lokalnoj i općoj anesteziji, operacije opće kirurgije, abdominalna kirurgija, kirurgija dojke, neurokirurgija, oftalmološke operacije, ortopedske operacije, otorinolaringološke operacije, urološke operacije, proktološke operacije, plastičnu i estetsku kirurgiju i vaskularnu kirurgiju. About two third of all interventions in any specialist field can be performed at Medico's day hospital, for example: Open and endoscopic interventions under local and general anaesthesia, general surgical interventions, abdominal surgery, breast surgery, neurosurgery, ophthalmologic, orthopaedic and otorhinolaryngology interventions, urologic, proctologic intervention, plastic and aesthetic surgery as well as vascular surgery.
MEDICO U BROJKAMA / MEDICO IN NUMBERS 2.000.000 postupaka / interventions 500.000 pregleda / medical examinations 2.000 m2 radnog prostora / square metres of working area 200 zaposlenih tijekom 20 godina rada / employees during 20 working years 53 zaposlenih (trenutno) / employees (currently) 40 vanjskih suradnika (trenutno) / outsourcers (currently) 16 ordinacija / medical offices MEDICOV LIJEČNIČKI TIM / MEDICO medical team Dr. sc. Vladimir Mozetič, dr.med. specijalist urolog i Ravnatelj Poliklinike / PhD specialist in Urology and Polyclinic’s Director Tajana Abramović Kandžija, dr.med. specijalist oftalmolog / PhD specialist in Ophthalmology Ljiljana Boškić-Tomić, dr.med. specijalist internist, pulmolog / PhD specialist in Internal Medicine and Pulmonology Mr. sc. Miljenko Depolo, dr.med. specijalist ortoped / PhD Specialist in Orthopaedics Ksenija Eškinja-Lukin, dr.med. specijalist internist, kardiolog / PhD specialist in Internal Medicine and Cardiology Maja Gusej, dr.med. specijalist internist, gastroenterolog / PhD specialist in Internal Medicine and Gastroenterology Darko Ilić, mag.med.biochem. specijalist medicinske biokemije / mag.med. biochem. Specialist in Medic. Biochemic Željka Merlak, dr.med. specijalist internist, nefrolog / PhD specialist in Internal Medicine and Nephrology
Gorda Oluić Kabalin, dr.med. specijalist ginekolog / PhD specialist in Gynecology Dr. sc. Branko Pancić, dr.med. specijalist neurolog / PhD specialist in Neurology Mr. sc. Davor Petranović, dr.med. specijalist radiolog / PhD specialist in Radiology Roberto Širola, dr.med. specijalist otorinolaringolog / PhD specialist in Otorhinolaryngology Dr. sc. Damir Štifanić, dr.med. specijalist anesteziolog / PhD specialist in Anaesthesiology Mr. sc. Dubravka Topljak-Polić, dr.med. specijalist radiolog / PhD specialist in Radiology Vesna Utješinović Gudelj, dr.med. specijalist dermatovenerolog / PhD specialist in Dermatovenerology Nino Vidas, dr.med. specijalist opći i plastični kirurg / PhD specialist in General and Plastic Surgery Sanja Žuža Jurica, dr.med. specijalist ginekolog / PhD specialist in Gynecology
5/24/11 12:22:10 AM
42
Portret / Portrait
Piše / Written by: Slavica Mrkić Modrić Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić
Ivan Mišković Miško, karikaturist i strip crtač koji crnim humorom iscrtava osmijeh na licu Riječana
Ivan Mišković Miško, caricaturist and cartoonist who, with his black humour, has drawn a smile on the Rijeka inhabitants’ faces
Kad marginalci marširaju When people from the edge march Što je u Rijeci uvijek, ali baš uvijek crno, pitanje je na koje će svaki građanin grada uz Rječinu, ali i mnogi poklonici crnog humora diljem Lijepe naše bez problema odgovoriti iz prve. Odgovor glasi – karikature Ivana Miškovića Miška. Tko li je taj Miško, protupitanjem će odgovoriti oni koji nikad u posljednjih desetak godina nisu prolistali dnevno glasilo Riječana „Novi list“, nikad u ruke uzeli enigmatski časopis „Fenix“, a za strip mare jednako koliko i za parenje kišnih glista na Marsu. Jer, Miško je svojevrsni brend Rijeke, onaj crni, namrgođeni dečko što iz dana u dan strippasicama nazvanim „1xcrno“ i strip – serijalom „Profesor Ništica“ uveseljava konzumente spominjanih tiskovina. Iza sebe ima i četiri objavljene knjige, u pripremi petu, a osim što je poznati i davno prepoznati karikaturist i strip – crtač, Miško je i vrsni ilustrator i dizajner. Rođen u Rupama kraj Šibenika, u Rijeku je došao kao srednjoškolac, baš nekako u vrijeme kad mu je „Večernji list“ objavio i prvu karikaturu. Za ondašnjeg šesnaestogodišnjaka bio je to dokaz da je
42-44 Miskovic.indd 42
What is black is black, but is it always really black in Rijeka? This is a question to which every inhabitant of this town near Rječina, together with the many other admirers of black humour all around Croatia have an immediate response, that is Ivan Mišković Miško's caricatures. Who is this Miško? Now that is the counter-question of all those of the Rijeka inhabitants Novi List who haven’t turned the pages of a daily newspaper for the past ten years or who have never held a copy of the enigmatic magazine Fenix, and who are as interested in comics as they are in the mating of earthworms on Mars. Because, Miško is a Rijeka brand name, a black, frowning boy who, day by day, cheers up the consumers of the aforementioned newspapers with his comic strips known as “1xcrno” (one times black) and his serial comics “Profesor Ništica“ (“Professor Zero“). Until now he has published four books and there is a fifth underway but, he is also a well-known and time-recognized caricaturist and cartoonist. Miško is also an excellent illustrator and designer. Born in Rupe near
5/24/11 12:23:56 AM
43
na pravom putu na kojem je do današnjih dana i ostao. Iako mu je crtež crno – bijeli, humor mu je uvijek crn. Nikad ne filozofira, u izričaju je vrlo jednostavan, a vječna i neiscrpna inspiracija su mu život na margini društva i oni koji ga žive. Voli se Miško poigrati s koječim, ali nekako iz ljudskog svijeta preferira pijance, a kraljice među životinjama su mu svinje. Kako živi u kraju u kojem je turizam temelj na kojem mnogi grade budućnost i od kojeg žive i turisti mu počesto „zapnu za strip“. Za neke čudak, za neke genijalac, za neke cinik, za neke precrn u svom kreativnom izrazu, ali za sve uvijek „100 posto riječki proizvod“. A što Miško kao takav misli o Rijeci, u koju je 1978. stigao i koja ga je prepoznala kao svog, te kako promišlja sebe u njoj i nju u sebi možete saznati i iz njegovih stripova i iz ove brzopotezne igre „na temu, na temu“.
Rijeka živi kozmopolitizam Čime Rijeka došljaka kupi na prvu? - U Rijeku sam došao 1978. godine, u završna dva razreda Šuvarove srednje škole. Odmah sam je prihvatio kao nešto što je meni jako OK. Na prvu me privukla kozmopolitskim duhom kojim zrači. U njoj sam se osjećao, ono, baš dobro. U ovom gradu ljude ne zanimaju tuđi problemi, ne zabadaju nos u tuđi život i mišljenja sam da je to najveća kvaliteta koju grad može imati.
The chef puts too many ingredients that…
Rijeka lives cosmopolitism What does the newcomer get from Rijeka right away? - I came to Rijeka back in 1978, to finish the last two classes of the Šuvar high school. I accepted Rijeka right away, like
…he finds first…
Crtež mu je crno – bijeli, a humor uvijek crn. Njegovi nacrtani prijatelji žive na margini društva i progovarajući iskreno, ne štede ni sebe, ni svijet oko sebe His drawing is black & white, but humour is always black. His cartoon friends live at the margins of society and when speaking, they speak honestly, and neither spare themselves nor the world surrounding them Treba li Rijeci uistinu muzej rocka ili punka? - A kog bi vraga stavili unutra? Jesu li ti koji razmišljaju u tom smjeru svjesni činjenice da je većina onih koji su riječku scenu činili na prijelazu sedamdesetih u osamdesete godine prošloga stoljeća još uvijek odjevena u robu iz tog doba i ako bi ju donirali muzeju, ostali bi goli? Slušaju i iste ploče, a što bi onda ako bi
42-44 Miskovic.indd 43
Šibenik, he came to Rijeka as a secondary school pupil, when “Večernji list” published his first caricature. For the sixteen year-old boy he was then, this was the proof that he was on the way on to being what he is today. Although his drawings are black & white, his humour is always black. He never philosophizes; his expression is very simple whilst his eternal and inexhaustible inspiration is life on the edge of society and those who live there. Miško enjoys playing with all sorts of things, but from the human world his favourite characters are drunks whilst the queens of his animals are the pigs. Given that he lives in an area where tourism is a base on which many people build their future and from which they live, even the tourists very often get addicted to his comics. For some he is an eccentric, for others, a genius, for some, a cynic, for others too dark in his creative expression, but for all of them he is always a "100% product of Rijeka". What Miško thinks about Rijeka to which he came in 1978 and which has recognized him as one of its own, and how he sees himself in Rijeka and Rijeka in himself, can be discovered in his comics and in the rapid-transit game “on the subject, on the subject”.
something I considered particularly OK. It got me with the cosmopolitan spirit that it radiates. I feel really, really good in it. In this town, people do not care about other people's problems, nor do they poke their noses into other people's lives and I consider that to be the greatest quality a town can have. Does Rijeka really need a Rock or Punk Museum? - And what the hell will they put in it? Are those who are thinking about it aware of the fact that many of those who made the Rijeka music scene during the transition from the seventies to the eighties, are still wearing the same clothes from that period; therefore, if they donate these items to a museum then they will will be left in the nude? They are even listening to the same LPs, and what would they do if they donated them to a museum too? Anyway, it was a small scene and there is no chance that they can fill an entire museum, perhaps a memorial room, but not a museum.... I consider that idea to be really
5/24/11 12:24:23 AM
44
Let’s turn that into a tourist offer. Let’s write it in a guide…
…that the sea is full of ancient objects!
i njih donirali muzeju? Uostalom, ta je scena bila mala i nema šanse da ispuni muzej, možda spomen sobu ali muzej... Takvu ideju zaista smatram ishitrenom. Uostalom, pitanje koje bi si trebalo postaviti jest – zaslužuje li ta scena uopće muzej?
unfounded. Anyway, the question that should be asked is - does this scene deserve to have a museum?
Umjetnost je prevladana riječ
What is Rijeka’s attitude towards art and artists?
Kakva je Rijeka prema umjetnosti i umjetnicima? - Hm, daleko sam ja od umjetnika i umjetnosti tako da nisam baš siguran koliko sam kompetentan razgovarati o toj temi. S umjetnošću sam već odavno raščistio, ne volim ju kao ustroj, a doživljavam ju kao kao ljudsku djelatnost koja je postala pomalo besmislena. Pojam umjetnost već odavno ne rabim, draži mi je pojam kreativnost. Jedanostavno postoje ljudi koji znaju nešto napraviti. Ja recimo od toga živim, a dobar dio tih umjetnika su ljudi koji žive od fondova. Umjetnost ne smije biti isključivo donirana, da joj je jedini cilj potrošiti novac. Ako umjetnost ne može vratiti bar jedan dio uloženih sredstava ona nema smisla. Stvori se jedna kasta koja zna gdje se dijeli lova i odlazi po tu lovu jer po logici stvari te gradske, županijske i državne strukture moraju podijeliti određeni iznos za kulturu. Kvragu, 21. stoljeće je! Kakva umjetnost, o čemu oni govore? To je moglo vrijediti u prošlosti, ali u 21. stoljeću treba pričati o kreativnosti, a ne o umjetnosti. Ni stilski, ni tehnički ti više ne možeš odrediti umjetnost. Što je to slikarstvo ako ga radiš digitalno!? Mislim da su se ljudi u cijeloj toj priči o umjetnosti malo izgubili. Pa slika je postala artefakt kojeg kupuješ poput stolice. To sam vidio, u jednom velikom trgovačkom centru. Tamo lijepo piše: artikl – slika, cijena – 18 kuna, pa ti pričaj o umjetnosti.
You should change your name from Višnja (sour cherry) to Mandarina (tangerine)…
42-44 Miskovic.indd 44
Art is an overwhelming word - Hmm, I am far from being an artist and from art too so I am not really sure if I am competent to discuss this topic. I vindicated art a long time ago. I don’t like it as a system but I consider it a human activity that has become relatively absurd. I have not used the term art for a long time, I prefer the term creativity. There are simply people capable of doing something. For example, I make a living from my work but a large part of those artists are people who live from money given by funds. Art cannot be donated exclusively, with the only objective being to spend money. If art cannot repay at least part of the invested asset, then it has no sense. That would generate a caste that knows where the money is distributed and where it needs to go to get it because the logic of those municipal, county and governmental structures is that they have to distribute a determined amount of money set aside for culture. Damn, we are in the 21st century! What art, are they talking about? It can stand in the past, but in the 21st century we should be talking about creativity and not about art. Art can no longer be determined in terms of style, nor in technical terms. What is painting if you are doing it digitally? I think that people have lost themselves in a story about art. So the painting becomes an artefact that can be bought like you would a chair. I see it as a huge commercial centre. It is written: item – painting, price – 18 kunas, so go ahead, talk about the art.
You peel off easily!
5/24/11 12:25:31 AM
RIJEKA SUMMER NIGHTS
Posvec´enje ljeta
28. 06. - 21. 07. 2011.
The Rite Of Summer
✶ 28. lipnja 2011. u 21,30 Ispred zgrade HNK Ivana pl. Zajca SVE»ANA CEREMONIJA OTVARANJA RIJE»KIH LJETNIH NO∆I Gat Karoline RijeËke Compagnie Transe-Express (Francuska) TAMBOURS DE LA MUERTE ✶ 29. i 30. lipnja 2011. u 21,30 Plaža Glavanovo na PeÊinama Hrvatska drama HNK Ivana pl. Zajca Anonimus iz 17. stoljeÊa: LUKRECIJA O'BIMO REKLI POŽERUH komedija ✶ 29. lipnja 2011. u 21,30 Trg Grivica (ispred Katedrale sv. Vida) BELFAST FOOD koncert ✶ 1. i 2. srpnja 2011. u 21,30 Trg Grivica (ispred Katedrale sv. Vida) Opera HNK Ivana pl. Zajca Pietro Mascagni: CAVALLERIA RUSTICANA opera ✶ 4. srpnja 2010. u 21,30 ex Park hotel (plaža ispod OŠ Grivica) Koncert RijeËke filharmonije JEDNA FANTAZIJA, KONCERT, DIVERTIMENTO I SERENADA ✶ 5. i 6. srpnja 2011. u 21,30 Trg Matije VlaËiÊa Ilirika HKD Teatar Rijeka Ivo Brešan: PREDSTAVA HAMLETA U SELU MRDUŠA DONJA komedija ✶ 8. srpnja 2010. u 21,30 Tvornica papira - Hartera Koprodukcija Bitef teatra, Beograd i Grad Teatar, Budva po motivima drame Williama Shakespearea: OTHELLO plesna predstava
(najnoviji film iz retrospektive Jamesa Ivoryja) Film pod zvijezdama BIJELA GROFICA (White Countess) melodrama (SAD/Ujedinjeno Kraljevstvo) ✶ 12. (praizvedba i premijera), 13., 14., 15., 16., 17., 18., 19. i 20. srpnja 2011. u 21,30 ex Park hotel (plaža ispod OŠ Grivica) Hrvatska drama HNK Ivana pl. Zajca Dubravka UgrešiÊ: BABA JAGA JE SNIJELA JAJE komedija u tri dijela Adaptacija romana: Ivor MartiniÊ ✶ 12. srpnja 2011. u 21,30 Trg Matije VlaËiÊa Ilirika Film pod zvijezdama ŽENSKA PRAVA HO∆U! (Made in Dagenham) humorna drama (Ujedinjeno Kraljevstvo) ✶ 13. srpnja 2011. u 21,30 Trg Matije VlaËiÊa Ilirika Film pod zvijezdama DVOSTRUKI SAT (La doppia ora) kriminalistiËki triler (Italija) ✶ 14. srpnja 2011. u 21,30 Marijin perivoj / Perivoj Gospe Trsatske Koncert ZagrebaËke filharmonije Doživite jedinstvenu Kubu! SALSA FILARMÓNICA ✶ 15. srpnja 2011. u 21,00 Katedrala sv. Vida Edmund Andler BoriÊ (orgulje) RECITAL FRANZA LISZTA Povodom 200 obljetnice roenja ✶ 18. srpnja 2011. u 21,00 Crkva Gospe Trsatske Koncert zbora Opere HNK Ivana pl. Zajca LE SACRE DE L'ÉTÉ / POSVE∆ENJE LJETA
✶ 9. srpnja 2011. u 21,30 Trg Matije VlaËiÊa Ilirika JASNA BILUŠI∆ & NEW DEAL koncert
✶ 19. srpnja 2011. u 21,00 HNK Ivana pl. Zajca Simfonijski orkestar mladih iz Strasbourga OD KLASIKE DO POPA
✶ 11. srpnja 2011. u 21,30 Trg Matije VlaËiÊa Ilirika U suradnji s Festivalom igranog filma u Puli i Agencijom za ticketing d.o.o. Rijeka
✶ 21. srpnja 2011. u 21,30 Ponton (Molo longo) SveËano zatvaranje RijeËkih ljetnih noÊi NA MORU ZVIJEZDA
✶ 28th June 2011 at 9.30 pm In front of the “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre building RIJEKA SUMMER NIGHTS CEREMONIAL OPENING Karolina RijeËka pier Compagnie Transe-Express (France) TAMBOURS DE LA MUERTE ✶ 29th and 30th June 2011, at 9.30 pm Glavanovo beach at PeÊine “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre’s Croatian drama Anonymous from the 17th century: LUKRECIJA O'BIMO REKLI POŽERUH comedy ✶ 29th June 2011 at 9.30 Grivica Square (in front of the St. Vitus Cathedral) BELFAST FOOD concert ✶ 1st and 2nd July 2011 at 9.30 pm Grivica Square (in front of the St. Vitus Cathedral) “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre’s Opera Pietro Mascagni: CAVALLERIA RUSTICANA opera ✶ 4th July 2011 at 9.30 pm former Park hotel (beach under the Grivica Elementary school) Rijeka Philharmonic concert ONE FANTASY, CONCERT, DIVERTIMENTO AND SERENADE
✶ 12th (premiere), 13th, 14th, 15th, 16th, 17th, 18th, 19th and 20th July 2011 at 9.30 pm former Park hotel (beach under the Grivica Elementary school) “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre’s Croatian drama Dubravka UgrešiÊ: BABA JAGA JE SNIJELA JAJE comedy in three parts Adaptation of the novel: Ivor MartiniÊ ✶ 12th July 2011 at 9.30 pm Matija VlaËiÊ Ilirik Square Film under the stars MADE IN DAGENHAM humoristic drama (United Kingdom) ✶ 13th July 2011 at 9.30 pm Matija VlaËiÊ Ilirik Square Film under the stars LA DOPPIA ORA (Double hour) criminal thriller (Italy) ✶ 14th July 2011 at 9.30 pm Mary's Park/Virgin Mary of Trsat's Park Zagreb Philharmonic concert Experiment the unique Cuba! SALSA FILARMÓNICA
✶ 5th and 6th July 2011 at 9.30 pm Matija VlaËiÊ Ilirik Square Croatian Cultural Centre Theatre Rijeka Ivo Brešan: PREDSTAVA HAMLETA U SELU MRDUŠA DONJA comedy ✶ 8th July 2011 at 9.30 pm Paper Factory - Hartera Coproduction by Bitef Theatre, Belgrade and Grad Theatre, Budva based on motives from William Shakespeare drama: OTHELLO dance performance
✶ 15th July 2011 at 9.00 pm St. Vitus Cathedral Edmund Andler BoriÊ (organs) FRANZ LISZT RECITAL On the occasion of 200th anniversary of his birth ✶ 18th July 2011 at 9.00 pm St. Mary of Trsat’s Church “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre’s Opera concert LE SACRE DE L'ÉTÉ / THE RITE OF SUMMER
✶ 9th July 2011 at 9.30 pm Matija VlaËiÊ Ilirik Square JASNA BILUŠI∆ & NEW DEAL concert
✶ 19th July 2011 at 9.00 pm “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre The symphony orchestra of youngsters from Strasbourg FROM CLASSICAL TO POP MUSIC
✶ 11th July 2011 at 9.30 pm Matija VlaËiÊ Ilirik Square In collaboration with Pula Live Action Film Festival and Agencija za Ticketing d.o.o. Rijeka
✶ 21th July 2011 at 9.30 pm Ponton (Molo longo) Ceremonial closing of Rijeka Summer Nights ON THE SEA OF STARS
Ulaznice se mogu kupiti: - na blagajni HNK Ivana pl. Zajca, Verdijeva 5a, tel. +385 51 337-114 na mjestu održavanja. e-mail: blagajna@hnk-zajc.hr - u TuristiËkom informativnom centru, Korzo 33a, Rijeka; Tel 385 51 335 882 - putem interneta na www.kulturaplus.com - informacije: Propaganda HNK Ivana pl. Zajca; tel. 385 51 355 922, 355 917, 355 915, info@rijeckeljetnenoci.com
42-44 Miskovic.indd 45
(The newest film from James Ivory retrospective) Film under the stars WHITE COUNTESS melodrama (USA/United Kingdom)
The tickets can be bought: - In the “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre's Ticket Office, Verdijeva 5a, phone +385 51 337-114 at the place of the event. e-mail: blagajna@hnk-zajc.hr - In the Tourist Information Centre, Korzo 33a, Rijeka; phone 385 51 335 882 - Online on www.kulturaplus.com - Information: “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre Propaganda Phone 385 51 355 922, 355 917, 355 915, info@rijeckeljetnenoci.com
5/24/11 12:26:45 AM
46
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić
Korzo je središte Rijeke i najpoznatija ulica u gradu. Tristošezdeset i četiri dana Riječani tom ulicom šeću, a jednom godišnje sve se promijeni. Korzo postaje scenska kulisa festivala trčanja i najveće hrvatske utrke - Homo si teć
The Korzo, the centre of Rijeka and its most famous street where its citizens walk for 364 days a year though once a year it changes completely. The Korzo becomes the backdrop of the Running Festival and the largest Croatian race - Homo si teć
Utrka dobra srca A race of a good heart Sve je počelo 1998. godine kad su hrvatski nogometni reprezentativci iskovali najveći uspjeh hrvatskog nogometa. Davor Šuker i još desetorica veličanstvenih iz Francuske su se vratili sa svjetskom broncom i 1998. godinu upisali zlatnim slovima u almanah hrvatskog sporta. Upravo te godine novinar i veliki zaljubljenik u sport Orlando Rivetti, zajedno sa svojim prijateljima, dolazi na ideju o utrci kojom se mora, baš kao i nogometom iste godine, ujediniti čitava javnost, no ovoga puta ne države već grada. I uspjeli su. Kocka je bačena. Trebalo je još samo smisliti ime uličnoj utrci. Nakon kratkih konzultacija rađa se Homo si teć ili na čakavskom dijalektu Hajdemo svi trčati. I zaista, to se i dogodilo. Isprva je utrka bila zamišljena kao dopuna javnom izvlačenju nagradne igre,
46-48 homo si tec 3.indd 46
Everything began in 1998. It was a year when Croatian National Football players achieved the biggest success of Croatian football. Davor Šuker and the magnificent ten came back from the World Championship in France with the bronze medal and so registered 1998 in the Almanac of Croatian sport with golden letters. That same year, a great admirer of sport and a journalist, Orlando Rivetti, together with a group of friends, got an idea to initiate a race which had, like the football did that year, to unite all citizens but this time not the country but those from the town. And they did it! The die has been cast, the name given to the street race was the last thing they needed to conceive. Short consultations and Homo si teć was born (which in the Chakavian dialect means “Let’s all run“). And it really did. In
5/24/11 12:27:55 AM
47
da bi ubrzo od predjela postala glavno jelo kojeg su svi voljeli i željeli biti dio.
Svi u dresu iste boje Iz godine u godinu utrka je postajala sve masovnija. Jedan od bitnih, možda i najvažniji razlog bila je njezina humanitarna strana. Tisuće trkača odazivalo se utrci koja se trčala za škole, razne udruge, za pomoć bolnicama. Trčalo se i za čisti zrak, društvo znanja. Potpora kandidaturi za Mediteranske igre ujedinila je rekreativce sportaše, ljubitelje zdravog načina života. Uz sve nabrojeno utrke su u sebi nosile lajtmotiv cijelog pokreta, trčanje „za sportsku mladež“. Vođeni tim motivom organizatori su sudionike odlučili obući u iste majice. Prvih godina se prodavalo do tisuću majica, da bi u nedavno održanom jubilarnom 15. izdanju, majicu s prepoznatljivom logom utrke obuklo više od deset tisuća sudionika. Biti dijelom utrke koja tog dana na Korzo kao magnet privlači tisuće onih koji u tom trenutku zaborave na mnoge stvari koje nas čine drugačijima, neopisivo je. Političari različitih opcija obuku iste majice, učenik prvog i završnog razreda trče jedan uz drugoga zajedno s učiteljima, prodavačima, odvjetnicima. Nogometaši, odbojkaši, vaterpolisti napokon zaigraju na istom terenu. Sportaši koji se ne poznaju ili se u suprotnom nikad ne bi susreli, sretnu se na Korzu. Tog dana ništa nije važno, svi postanu trkači koji se ne bore s metrima ili sekundama, već su samo ono što možda ponekad zaborave biti - Riječani. Dan sporta i zabave upotpunjen je penjanjem na umjetnu stijenu, sprintom na 100 metara, košarkaškim haklom, nogotenisom, i sl. Cjelodnevna je to manifestacija u kojoj svatko doprinosi identitetu utrke koja kroz žilu kucavicu – riječko Korzo, puni ogromno srce koje kuca u utrci Homo si teć. Cilj je proći zadanom dionicom od 3.150 metara, no stvarnog cilja nema, on je ostvaren samim dolaskom na utrku.
Desetljeće polumaratona Prvi Riječki polumaraton rodio se početkom prošloga desetljeća na jednoj od najatraktivnijih ruta, od pitoresknog mjesta Lovrana do Rijeke. Skromno i bez prevelikih očekivanja, od 150 trkača na početku, prerastao je u zavidni sportski događaj na koji se prijavljuje preko 800 sportaša iz svih dijelova svijeta. Isprva se polumaraton trčao kao zasebna utrka, da bi u svojem šestom izdanju postao dijelom uigrane i nadaleko poznate utrke Homo si teć. Time se stvorio prostor za još veći i kvalitetniji iskorak Riječkoga polumaratona. Dosadašnja se ruta mijenja i prilagođava atraktivnosti sportskoga dana u gradu. I dalje se trči 21 kilometar, od starta na Korzu do Preluka (poznata svjetska motociklistička staza na kojoj su se, sredinom prošloga stoljeća, vozila Svjetska prvenstva) i natrag na Korzo. Za one koji toliko silno žele istrčati zadanu dionicu a fizička pripremljenost im to ne dozvoljava, organizatori su kako bi popularizirali trčanje, dozvolili štafetu od tri trkača. Cijelom trasom polumaratona dežuraju vrijedni volonteri nudeći trkače vodom. Kada moral splasne i sudionik utrke pomisli kako je cilj nedostižan, bendovi će ih svojom zaraznom muzikom tjerati dalje, do onog posljednjeg metra na kojem se već izdaleka osjeća zamaman miris savršene fritaje od šparoga, fešte za nepce, uz koju se zaboravlja sav umor. Glas o Riječkom polumaratonu prenosi se i u ostale dijelove svijeta. Na, po mnogima najorganiziranijem
46-48 homo si tec 3.indd 47
the beginning, the race was conceived as an additional event to a prize contest drawing but very soon it has become the main event which everybody liked and wanted to be a part of.
All in the same colour jersey From year to year, more and more people have joined the street race. One of the important, perhaps the most important factor is its humanitarian character. Thousands of runners took part in a run that was organized for schools, a number of associations and in aid of hospitals. They were also running for clean air and a knowledgeable society. Support was also given in its candidature for the Mediterranean games which brought amateur sportsmen and healthy lifestyle lovers together. Besides this, the races had a light-motive for the entire initiative, running for “sport oriented youngsters“. Driven by this objective, organizers decided to make all participants wear the same T-shirt. Around a thousand T-shirts were sold in the initial years, whilst during the recent one, 15th anniversary race, the shirt was worn by more than ten thousand participants. Being part of a race that on one day, that attracts like a magnet thousands of runners to the Korzo and who in that particular moment forget the minutiae which make us different, is indescribable . Politicians of all political backgrounds wear the same T-shirts, the 1st and 8th classes run next to each another, together with their teachers, sales people, lawyers. Football, volleyball and water-polo players finally play on the same field. Sportsmen who do not know each other or would otherwise never meet, meet on the Korzo. It is the one day when nothing else matters. Everyone becomes a runner and does not compete in metres or in seconds, but are just those they sometimes forget to be – citizens of Rijeka. This day of sport and entertainment is completed with artificial rock climbing, sprint relays over 100 m, street basketball, foot-tennis, etc. It is a full day event in which everybody give his own contribution to the race’s identity which, along the main venue – the Korzo in Rijeka - charges a huge heart beating in the Homo si teć race. Each participant’s objective is to pass the required 3150 m long section, but there is no real end to the race, as everyone is a winery just by taking part.
A decade of Half Marathon The first Rijeka Half Marathon was born at the beginning of the last decade along one of the most attractive routes, from the picturesque village of Lovran to Rijeka. Humble and with no great expectations, with just 150 runners at the beginning it
5/24/11 12:28:36 AM
48
i najljepšem polumaratonu u Hrvatskoj uz domaće trkače sudjeluju i trkači iz Slovenije, Srbije, Italije, Mađarske, Austrije, Rusije, Ukrajine. S ponosom se ističu i maratonci iz Maroka, Etiopije, Kenije i Ugande kojima je Rijeka postala nezaobilazna stanica u njihovom planeru.
Ciciban kup, Hendi kup Svi različiti, a opet svi jednaki, nepisano je pravilo Homo si teć utrke. Nakon što polumaratonci krenu svojim putem, najfrekventniju gradsku šetnicu zauzimaju osobe s motoričkim i intelektualnim poteškoćama. Radost s kojom sudjeluju u utrci teško je usporediti s bilo čim na svijetu. U tih par stotinjaka metara koje prođu uz pomoć kolica, samostalno ili u pratnji, svi postaju pobjednici. I dok još veseli hendi sudionici nisu ni završili utrku, na startu se kao roj malih pčelica skuplja budućnost Homo si teć utrke. Stotine vrtićke djece s nestrpljenjem dočekuju start Ciciban kupa. Cjelogodišnje pripreme teta u vrtiću stižu na naplatu. Najveća moguća nagrada su sretna djeca i ponosni roditelji.
New York, Tokio, Milano, Rijeka Petnaesto izdanje Homo si teć utrke, desetog polumaratona, idealno je vrijeme za podvlačenje crte. Nakon 14 godina postojanja, dress - code utrke prepoznalo je više od 100 000 sudionika. Od skromnih početaka riječki dan sporta i zabave prerastao je svoje okvire. Priča se sramežljivo o velikom maratonu. O trenutku kad će Rijeka biti u društvu najpoznatijih svjetskih maratona, poput onog u New Yorku, Tokiju, Milanu. Svi preduvjeti su stvoreni. Grad dokazano živi sportski i za sport.
has become a well-known sporting event to which more than 800 sportsmen apply from around the world. In the beginning, this half marathon was run as a separate race but from the 6th edition it becomes part of a well organized and famous race the Homo si teć. This was the moment where the Rijeka Half Marathon received the necessary space to develop both in size and in quality. Route changes have added to the attractiveness of the sporting day in the town. What hasn’t changed is the 21 kilometres, from the start on the Korzo to Preluk (the world-famous motorcycle track where World Championship races were run in the middle of the last century) and the back to the Korzo. For those wanting to run the predetermined section but who are not particularly good physical conditions, the organizers have allowed a 3-runner relay race, with the aim of making running popular. Throughout the half marathon section attentive volunteers of fer water to runners. Should any runner’s moral be lowered and he/she should begin to think that the end is unreachable, there are bands playing lively music to help them move forward to that last metre where one an enticing odour of a perfect asparagus frittata can be smelt, a feast for the palate, which will help you to forget any fatigue. Word of the Rijeka Half Marathon has spread to other parts of the world. And, according to many, it is the best organized and the most enjoyable half marathon in Croatia, in which not only local runners take part but also those from Slovenia, Serbia, Italy, Hungary, Austria, Russia and the Ukraine. We proudly call attention to the participation of marathon runners from Morocco, Ethiopia, Kenya and Uganda for whom Rijeka has become an unavoidable point in their calendar year.
Ciciban cup, Hendi cup All dif ferent but all equal, is the unwritten rule of the Homo si teć race. After the start of the half marathon runners, the most frequent city venue concerns people with motor and intellectual disabilities. Their joy in taking part in this race is dif ficult to compare with anything else in the world. In those hundred metres that they undergo in wheelchairs, either independently or accompanied, all of them become winners. And even whilst these happy disabled participants are still completing the race, future runners of the Homo si teć gathers at the start like a swarm of bees. A hundred children from kindergarten impatiently wait for the Ciciban Cup to start. Their year-long preparation with their kindergarten teachers bears fruit, with the greatest award being the children’s happiness and the pride of their parents.
New York, Tokyo, Milano, Rijeka The 15th edition of the Homo si teć race, the 10th half marathon - an ideal time to draw a line. After 14 years of existence, the dress code of this race is recognized by more than 100 000 participants. From its recent beginnings, Rijeka's day of sport and entertainment has taken away its confines. It is shamelessly talking about the full marathon. It is almost time for Rijeka to join the group of the most famous world marathons, such as those in New York, Tokyo and Milano. All the preconditions have been met and the fact that this city lives the sport and for the sport is clearly demonstrated.
46-48 homo si tec 3.indd 48
5/24/11 12:28:57 AM
Novi zdravstveni kompleks Poliklinike Medico prostire se na 3 kata i nalazi se na adresi Agatićeva 8 u Rijeci. U novoopremljenom medicinskom centru očekuje Vas stručno osoblje, a najmodernija dijagnostička i terapijska oprema te individualan pristup svakom pacijentu pružaju najbolju medicinsku uslugu u najkraćem mogućem roku.
Medico Polyclinic on a new attractive location in the centre of Rijeka! WELCOME TO MEDICO POLYCLINIC Agatićeva Rijeka, Croatia Tel. Fax medico@medico.hr www.medico.hr Working time: h Mon-Fri: Sat: h
The new healthcare complex of Medico Polyclinic spreads over three �f loors and is located at the address Agatićeva 8 in Rijeka, Croatia. In the newly equipped medical centre you will be greeted by expert personnel, and the most modern diagnostic and therapeutic equipment, as well as individual approach to each patient, provide the best medical care in the shortest possible time.
THE NEW MEDICO POLYCLINIC HAS AVAILABLE ON DAILY BASIS: → Medicalbiochemical laboratory
100527-BHR-Medico_Ad_225x295-F.indd 1 46-48 homo si tec 3.indd 49
→ Diagnostic radiology (MR, mammography, MSCT, x-ray room, ultrasound)
→ Gynaecology → Ophthalmology → Cardiology → Orthopaedic
→ Pulmology → Neurology → Othorinolaringology → Dermatology → Nephrology
→ Surgical area → Daily hospital → Gastroenterology → Urology
27.05.10 15:50 5/24/11 12:29:28 AM
50
Novi grad / New city
Riječki se stadion smjestio između mora i stijena Rijeka's stadium found a place between the sea and the rocks
Piše / Written by: Igor Rivetti Fotografije / Photos: HNK Rijeka, AK Kvarner Autotrans, Dean Miculinić
Kantrida
- stjenoviti stadion
Kantrida - the rocky stadium
Stadion Kantrida ima kapacitet od 10 tisuća i 600 mjesta, nalazi se u istoimenom predjelu u zapadnom dijelu Rijeke i sagrađen je 1912. godine. Tako izgleda opis Kantride u brojnim leksikonima i enciklopedijama, sasvim obično, poput tisuća ostalih europskih stadiona. No Kantrida je sve, samo ne običan stadion. Smještena između stijena i mora Kantrida je jedinstvena, a na tom malom prostoru mijenjale su se države i jezici no uvijek su se svi razumjeli- jer najvažniji je bio sport. Gotovo je. Završila je još jedna sezona za nogometaše Rijeke. Spustili su se tako zastori na Kantridi, stadionu koji je završio još jedno svoje poglavlje. Bogata povijest stadiona traje već cijelo stoljeće, a priča o stadionu podno stijena, priča je o riječkom sportu, ali i gradu. Nogomet se u Rijeci počeo igrati još 1873. godine. Povodom puštanja u promet željezničke pruge Rijeka-Karlovac snage su odmjerili zaposlenici mađarskih državnih željeznica i riječkoga tehničkog zavoda, kasnije poznatog i kao Tvornica Torpedo. Nakon toga se počinju osnivati i prvi klubovi čiji igrači igraju na improviziranim igralištima, a među brojnim
50-52 Kantrida.indd 50
Built in 1912 in the Rijeka quarter of the same name, it has a capacity of 10 thousand 600 hundred places. This is how a description of Kantrida appears in many lexicons and encyclopaedias, just like thousands of other European stadiums. However, Kantrida is everything but an regular stadium. Situated between the rocks and the sea, Kantrida is also unique because even though countries and languages have changed mutual understanding, which was always present thanks of the sport has not - and this was the most important aspect of it. It is over. Another season is over for Rijeka FC players. The curtains have rolled down on Kantrida, the stadium which closed another chapter. The rich history of this stadium persisted throughout the whole of the last century whilst the story of the stadium under the rocks is a story not only about Rijeka sport but also about the city itself. Football in Rijeka dates back to 1873 when it celebrated the Rijeka-Karlovac railway route opening to traffic, employees of the Hungarian state railways and the Rijeka Technical Institute, later known as the Torpedo Factory. After this, the
5/24/11 12:30:59 AM
51
igračima u to vrijeme u Rijeci bio je i Fiorello la Guardia, kasnije gradonačelnik New Yorka u tri mandata, koji je nogomet igrao za Club Atletico Fiumano. Razdoblje igranja na neprimjerenim terenima za nogomet u gradu je završilo, a 1912. godine kad je došlo vrijeme i za izgradnju pravog nogometnog igrališta. Sušački srednjoškolci, članovi Hrvatskog sportskog društva Viktorija, na jednom su od svojih mnogobrojnih treninga trčanja na dionici Kantrida-Volosko zastali da se odmore na zidu iznad starog kamenoloma i shvatili da bi možda to moglo biti dobro mjesto za nogometno igralište. Odmori iznad kamenoloma su postali sve češći, a ideja sve glasnija i nakon nekog vremena počelo se na njoj i raditi. Prvi korak bio je nagovoriti vlasnike kamenoloma, mađarsku tvrtku koja kamenolom više nije koristila, da daju dozvolu za gradnju igrališta i uspjeli su. Upornim je studentima pošlo za rukom nagovoriti i Općinsko vijeće Kastva, na čijem se području nalazio kamenolom, da izda dozvolu o prenamjeni prostora u sportske svrhe. U nagovaranju vijećnika pomogao im je i tadašnji odbornik u Kastvu, poznati književnik i pjesnik Vladimir Nazor. Radovi su tada krenuli u najvećoj tajnosti. Na izgradnji igrališta sudjelovali su svi Viktorijaši, a pomagali su im i brojni Hrvati iz grada. Nakon manje od godinu dana neugledni kamenolom uz more je postao prava sportska oaza.
Prva utakmica Svečano otvorenje igrališta uslijedilo je 1. lipnja 1912. godine, a čast da otvori igralište utakmicom s Viktorijom dobio je Prvi Hrvatski građanski športski klub iz Zagreba koji je tada igrao prvenstvo Hrvatske i Slavonije. Utakmica je najavljivana plakatima i lecima kojih je grad bio prepun. Obje momčadi su sa Sušaka doputovale ribarskim barkama, kako bi se izbjegao put kroz Rijeku, u kojoj je dolazilo do incidenata s ondašnjim talijanskim stanovništvom. Bilo je to, naime, prvo i jedino igralište propisanih dimenzija na području Hrvatskog Primorja, Istre i Gorskog Kotara za potrebe hrvatskih sportaša. Prva utakmica na Kantridi nije mogla bolje završiti, domaćin je pobjedio 2:0. Viktorija je na Kantridi igrala do početka Prvog svjetskog rata, a rat je značio i prekid svih sportskih aktivnosti u gradu. Viktoria se više nikada nije vratila na Kantridu u punom smislu te riječi, nakon rata i raspada Austro-Ugarske, igralište je stavljeno na raspolaganje talijanskim klubovima iz grada.
foundation of the first clubs began, playing on improvised playing fields. Amongst the numerous players of the time, was Fiorello la Guardia who lived in Rijeka and who later became New York mayor over three mandates, and who played football for the Club Atletico Fiumano. The time of playing on inappropriate football fields ended in 1912 when construction of the first real football field began. Secondary school pupils from Sušak, members of the Croatian Viktoria sporting association have, at one of their numerous running training sessions along the Kantrida - Volosko section, stopped to rest near the wall above the old quarry, and realized that it might be a good place to construct a football f ield. More and more often they stopped above the quarry whilst their idea becomes ever louder and after a while they began to carry out their dream. The f irst step was to persuade the quarry owners, a Hungarian company who hadn't used the quarry, to give them permission to build a playing f ield on the site. And they did it! Persistent students also managed to persuade the Kastav Municipality Council on whose area the quarry was located, to issue permission to modify the area for sporting purposes. Their attempt even included the then councillor of Kastav, the famous writer and poet, Vladimir Nazor. So work began, but in great secrecy. All the members of the Viktoria club took part in the construction of the playing field, with help of a large number of Croats from the town. After less than a year, the drab quarry near the sea becomes a real sporting oasis.
The first match The opening ceremony took place on 1st June 1912, to honour the opening of the stadium, was a match with Viktoria, and Prvi Hrvatski građanski športski klub (the First Croatian civilian sport club) from Zagreb, who then played in the Croatia and Slavonia Championship. This match was promoted and announced with posters and f lyers which could be found all around the town. Both teams came from Sušak in fishing boats in order to avoid any accidents when passing through Rijeka, which often happened with the then Italian inhabitants. This was the frst and only playing ground of required dimensions in the area of the Croatian Coastal region, Istria and Gorski kotar, to be suitable for Croatian sportsmen’s needs. The first match at Kantrida could not have finished better. The host side won 2:0. Viktoria played matches at the Kantrida stadium until the First World War began, when the war interrupted all sporting activities in the town. Viktoria never came back to Kantrida in a literal sense. After the war and the break-up of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, the playing f ield was given to the Italian clubs from the town. This is how everything started and the rocks under which these matches have been played for almost 100 years, have also experienced three national football Championships. Besides the Yugoslavian and Croatian League, Kantrida also hosted the Italian Serie A. Numerous representations played at Kantrida, state and guest teams have changed but the host teams also changed. So, this field near the sea has been used by Tarsia, Viktorija, Fiumana, Olimpija, Glorija, Kvarner and in the end, Rijeka which has stayed here the longest, from 1954 until
50-52 Kantrida.indd 51
5/24/11 12:31:52 AM
52
today. Times have changed as have the states and the clubs; the name of the stadium has also changed, so the rocks above the field have become silent witnesses of Rijeka’s history.
Tako je sve počelo, a stijene podno kojih se igra već gotovo 100 godina doživjele su i tri nacionalna nogometna prvenstva. Uz Jugoslavensku i Hrvatsku ligu, Kantrida je bila domaćin i talijanskoj Serie A. Igrale su na Kantridi brojne reprezentacije, mijenjale su se države i gostujuće momčadi, ali i klubovi domaćini. Tako su teren uz more koristili kao svoj Enea, Tarsia, Viktorija, Fiumana, Olimpija, Glorija, Kvarner te na kraju i Rijeka koja se na Kantridi zadržala najduže, od 1954. godine do danas. Mijenjala su se vremena, države, klubovi, mijenjala su se stadionu imena, a stijene nad terenom postale su nijemi svjedok povijesti Rijeke. No podno stijena se nije igrao samo nogomet. Kantrida je dom i Atletskog kluba Kvarner koji se kroz povijest može pohvaliti brojnim rekordima i medaljama, a te su uspjehe u borbi s metrima i sekundama ostvarili upravo trenirajući na Kantridi. Između dva svjetska rata stadion se koristio i za biciklističke utrke, te utrke motora dirt-track, preteče današnjeg speedwaya. Na Kantridi je počela i “Kvarnerska rivijera”, jedan od najpoznatijih juniorskih turnira u nogometu u Europi, koji se igra od 1953. godine. Na Kantridi su u juniorskim dresovima igrali Zvonimir Boban, Davor Šuker, Dino Zof f, Gerd Muller, Paul Breitner i ostali veliki igrači. Kako su se razvijali nogomet i sport, razvijala se i Kantrida. Igralište između stijena i mora prošlo je dalek put od početnog izgleda. Tijekom svog postojanja, stadion je više puta uređivan i nadograđivan, da bi konačno 2005. dobio sadašnji izgled. Posebno je svečano na Kantridi bilo 1957. kad je postavljena prva trava, 18 godina kasnije postavljeni su i reflektori, a od 1999. godine na tribinama nema više stajaćih mjesta. Na svim tribinama su postavljene stolice i stadion dobiva sadašnji kapacitet. Kantrida je odgojila generacije i generacije nogometaša i atletičara, ali i gledatelja. Članovi Viktorije koji su došli na ideju da se na mjestu kamenoloma napravi igralište nisu mogli ni zamisliti kakve će se emocije tu rađati i u koliko će pjesama Kantrida biti opjevana. Za mnoge Riječane Kantrida je čarobno mjesto. Nekad puna tuge i suza poput 1999. godine kad Rijeka u posljednjoj prvenstvenoj utakmici nije uspjela pobijediti Osijek zahvaljujući sudačkoj pogrešci odnosno poništenom golu i osvojiti prvo mjesto na nacionalnom prvenstvu pred 26.000 gledatelja, ali i sreće kad je 1984. u 2. kolu Kupa Uefa svladala veliki Real Madrid s 3:1. Na Kantridi su igrali i velikani poput Juventusa, Rome i Intera. To su samo djelići povijesti po mnogočemu jedinstvenog stadiona. Sportska pozornica na Kantridi sigurno nije najveća, ni najluksuznija ali je jedinstveno mjesto koje je postalo spomenik sportu i zaštitni znak grada.
50-52 Kantrida.indd 52
However, in its history it was not only football that was played under the rocks. Kantrida is also home to the Atletic Club Kvarner which boasts numerous records and medals. These successes combating with metres and seconds were achieved by training at Kantrida. Between the two world wars, the stadium was used for cycle races, as a dirt-track for motorcycle races, a forerunner of today's speedway. The “Kvarnerska rivijera” tournament, one of the most famous junior football tournaments in Europe which has been played since 1953 began at Kantrida. Here, in their junior kit, Zvonimir Boban, Davor Šuker, Dino Zof f, Gerd Muller, Paul Breitner and other great players once played. Kantrida developed as football developed. The playing f ield between the rocks and the sea has come a long way from its initial view. Many times throughout its history, has the stadium been renewed and extended and in 2005 it f inally took on its current shape. Kantrida was particularly festive in 1957, when the f irst grass was put down. 18 years later ref lectors were mounted whilst there are no longer standing places on the stands since 1999. All stands have been equipped with chairs so in this way, the stadium received its current appearance. Kantrida has brought up generations and generations of football players and athletes as well as spectators. Members of the Victoria club, who had the idea of building a playing field on the place of the quarry, wouldn’t even have been able to imagine the emotions that would have been born here and in how many songs Kantrida would be praised. For many citizens of Rijeka, Kantrida represents a magical place. Sometimes full of sorrow and tears like in 1999 when Rijeka, in the last championship match against Osijek, thanks to the refereeing error that cancelled a goal, so that they didn't manage to conquer and win first place at the national championships in front of 26,000 spectators. But it has also been full of happiness as when Rijeka in 1984, in the 2nd round of the UEFA Cup, overcame giants, Real Madrid 3:1. Great clubs like Juventus, Roma or Inter have also played at the Kantrida stadium. These are only a tiny fraction of the history of this stadium that is unique for so many things. The sporting arena at Kantrida is surely neither the biggest nor the most luxurious, but it is a unique place that has become a monument to sport and a trade-mark of the town itself.
5/24/11 12:32:21 AM
53
Novi grad / New city
Wellness oaza u Bonaviji
Health & Beauty Oasis in Bonavia
[ comfort zone ] space bonavia prostire se na 250 četvornih metara ekskluzivnog prostora, ima tri sobe za ekskluzivne tretmane opuštanja i uljepšavanja lica i tijela, finsku saunu s kromoterapijom te tursku kupelj i biosaunu. Također, ima i sobu za relaksaciju s kromoterapijom odnosno specijalnim svjetlosnim efektima, a strop relax zone je u obliku ruže vjetrova s rasvjetom koja omogućava spektar od 16 milijuna različitih nijansi boja. Kao posebnost wellnessa, izdvajaju se specijalni tematski tuševi kontrasni i bitermalni, koji su presvučeni indijskim oblutcima. [ comfort zone ] space bonavia u novoj ponudi izdvaja i fitness centar s najsuvremenijim profesionalnim spravama američke tvrtke Precor.
53 Bonavia.indd 53
[ comfort zone ] space bonavia spreads over an exclusive area of 250 sq.m. and includes three rooms for exclusive face&body beauty and relaxation treatments, Finnish sauna with chromotherapy, Turkish bath and biosauna. There is also a relaxation zone with chromotherapy i.e. special lighting effects while a wind-rose ceiling provides a spectrum of 16 million shades of colour. Special features of the wellness area are two thematic showers – contrast and bi-thermal – covered with Indian pebbles. [ comfort zone ] space bonavia in its new offer promotes the fitness centre with modern professional equipment by American company Precor.
Interijer ovog malog, intimnog wellness i fitness centra odlikuje se minimalističkim dizajnom, oplemenjenim parketom bambusa i prirodnim materijalima te ambijentalnom igrom svjetala.
The interior of this unique, intimate and charming wellness and fitness centre is distinguished by minimalist design, refined bamboo parquet and natural materials as well as ambient lighting effects
Spuštajući se spiralnim stepeništem otvaraju se vrata male mirisne wellness oaze na samo par koraka od Korza i užurbanog gradskog ritma.
Climbing down the spiral stairs, the door of this small, aromatic health and beauty oasis opens out just a few steps away from the Korzo and the hubbub of city life.
5/24/11 12:37:08 AM
54
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Klaudio Vrančić Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić
Rijeka Open
tenis s pogledom na more
Tennis with a view over the sea U dvorištu Tenis kluba Kvarner, iz crvene je zemlje niknuo još jedan riječki sportski brend, Challenger Rijeka Open. Već je u svom premijernom izdanju turnir okupio zavidno igračko društvo. Uz našeg Marina Čilića, koji će u spomenaru riječkog turnira ostati zauvijek upisan kao njegov prvi pobjednik, u Rijeku su dolazili po trofeje i tenisači poput srpskog reprezentativca Viktora Troickog, te Francuza Nicolasa Mahuta, danas poznatog i kao igrača koji je tri godine kasnije na Wimbledonu s Amerikancem Johnom Isnerom odigrao jedanaest sati i pet minuta dug meč, najduži u povijesti tenisa. Velikih imena ždrijebu nije nedostajalo niti godinu kasnije. No, jedno se posebno isticalo, ono dvostrukog olimpijskog pobjednika iz Atene- Nicolasa Massua. Na treći su rođendan riječkog challengera također stigli renomirani uzvanici, poput svjetski poznatih igrača na zemlji,
54-55 RiOpen.indd 54
In the courtyard of the Kvarner Tennis club, from the red soil of Marčeljeva Draga, another Rijeka sport brand was created – the challenger Rijeka open. Already in its first-run edition, this tournament brought together an impressive group of players. Besides our own Marin Čilić, who will remain forever inscribed in the autograph book as the first winner of this tournament, many other tennis players came to Rijeka looking for trophies like the Serbian representative Viktor Troicki and Frenchman Nicolas Mahut, now well-known as a player and who three years later played an eleven hour and five minute-long match with American John Isner at Wimbledon, the longest in the history of tennis. The following year there was also not a lack of big names. But, one name was particularly emphasized – that of Nicolas Massu – the double Olympics winner from Athens. On the third anniversary of the Rijeka Challenger renowned guests arrived like the world famous players onto Croatian soil, Spaniards Ivano
5/24/11 12:38:36 AM
55
Španjolaca Ivana Navarra i Rubena Ramireza Hidalga. Od trideset i dva je imena na kraju ostalo samo jedno, ono pobjednika - Talijana Paola Lorenzija, koji je u finalu svladao Blaža Kavčića. Slovenac se je u Rijeku vratio godinu kasnije i otišao korak dalje, do kraja. Četvrto je izdanje turnira obilježio nastup velikog Austrijanca, bivšeg pobjednika Roland Garrosa, Thomasa Mustera. Ove godine, Rijeka Open, iza kojeg je prvih pet godina, slavi mali jubilej. Iz godine u godinu turnir raste, ponajviše zahvaljujući organizatorima koji ulažu izniman trud, kako bi se igrači, ali i sve brojniji gledatelji, u Rijeci osjećali kao kod kuće. Dobra atmosfera, novac i bodovi samo su dio razloga zbog kojih tenisači vole Rijeka Open, a dani su to kada Rijeka uistinu postaje teniski grad zahvaljujući mnogobrojnim popratnim događanjima. U svojoj je kratkoj, ali uspješnoj povijesti, turnir u Rijeku i Hrvatsku već doveo neke od ponajboljih svjetskih igrača na zemlji, koji ga, zbog impresivnog pogleda, koji se proteže do mora i kvarnerskih otoka, s pravom nazivaju hrvatskim Monte Carlom.
54-55 RiOpen.indd 55
Navarro and Ruben Ramirez Hidalgo. From the thirty-two names, in the end only one remained - that of the winner – Italian Paolo Lorenzi who, in the final match was better than Blaž Kavčić. This Slovenian player came back to Rijeka a year later and made a step forward, to the end. The fourth edition of this tournament was marked with the appearance of the great Austrian player and former Roland Garros winner, Thomas Muster. This year, the Rijeka Open celebrates a small jubilee, its first five years. This tournament has been growing from year to year, mostly thanks to the organizers who have invested great effort in making the players, but even more so the numerous spectators, feel at home in Marčeljeva Draga. A wonderful atmosphere, money and points are only part of the reasons why players love the Rijeka Open. These are days when Rijeka certainly becomes the tennis town, thanks to the numerous accompanying events. In its short but successful history, this tournament has brought both to Rijeka and to Croatia some of the best world players on clay and thanks to the impressive view from the place where it is played that extends over the sea and the Kvarner islands, it is rightfully called the Croatian Monte Carlo.
5/24/11 12:39:54 AM
56
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Lidija Šušak Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić
Villa Nora - stoljetna ljepotica zanimljive prošlosti, danas je ekskluzivni turistički objekt
Villa Nora – centennial beauty of interesting past, today is an exclusive touristic facility
Bogata prošlost
Ville Nore
Rich history of Villa Nora
Kada Riječanima kažete Villa Nora većini je prva asocijacija na plažu Villa Nora koja se nalazi na Kantridi nedaleko bazena Kantrida. U manjini su oni koji će se sjetiti zgrade koja se nalazi na samom početku plaže. Za one koji će je pokušati pronaći s ceste, možda ostane neprimjetna zbog visokih borova koji je okružuju. Tek pogled s mora otkriva svu raskoš ove stoljetne zgrade koja skriva zanimljivu prošlost. Upravo je po toj zgradi plaža Villa Nora koja se proteže u produžetku dobila ime. Iako nije registrirana kao spomenička baština, Villu Noru krasi bogata povijest. Pisanih podataka nema puno, no ono što se zna vrlo je intrigantno. Početkom 20. stoljeća, točnije 1902. godine zgradu je dao izgraditi mađarski plemić. Navodno se radi o rođaku austrougarskog prijestolonasljednika. Poklonio ju je svojoj ljubavnici čije je zdravlje narušeno tuberkulozom trebao popraviti čisti morski zrak. Je li se ubrzo izliječila, koliko je vremena provela u vili izgrađenoj samo za nju, nije poznato. Kao ni kakva je bila sudbina ovog para. A ime Nora, tek se pretpostavlja da se ljubavnica upravo tako zvala.. Iz malobrojnih dokumenata vidljivo je da je kuća mijenjala svoje gospodare, a jedno je vrijeme bila i u vlasništvu suvlasnika tvornice „Torpedo”. Nakon Drugog svjetskog rata zgrada je nacionalizirana, a u nju se uselio Rus Petar Jušnjevski koji je u njoj doživio duboku starost. Početkom 90-tih godina od Jušnjevskog vilu kupuje pomorska obitelj Predovan iz Rijeke, koja i danas u njoj živi. Rus Jušnjevski nije ulagao u vilu i godine starosti i nebrige opasno su je nagrizle. Obitelj Predovan koja se planirala baviti turizmom
56-57 vila Nora.indd 56
If you mention Villa Nora to Rijeka inhabitants, the first association is with Villa Nora beach, situated in Kantrida, not far from the Kantrida swimming-pool. Less are able to remember the building at the very beginning of the beach. For those trying to see it from the road, it will perhaps remain imperceptible due to high pine trees that surround it. Only a view from the sea reveals all the elegance of this centennial building which hides an interesting past. Villa Nora beach that extends from the building was named exactly after it and although it is not registered as a monumental heritage, Villa Nora is determined by its rich history. There is not a lot of written data, but that which has been registered is very intriguing. At the beginning of the 20th century, precisely in 1902, a Hungarian nobleman ordered the construction of this building. It is said that he was a cousin of the heir-apparent to the AustroHungarian throne. He gave it away to his mistress whose health was affected by tuberculosis and which should have improved with the clean sea air. Whether she recovered quickly or how much time she passed in that villa built for her is not known. Not even the couple’s destiny is known. And it is supposed that the name Nora was that of the mistress herself. From the small number of documents it can be seen that this house changed owners, and for a period it was also owned by the Torpedo factory co-owners. After the Second World War this building was nationalized and inhabited by the Russian, Petar Jušnjevski, who lived here until his very old age. At the beginning of 1990, a naval family, the Predovans from Rijeka bought this villa from Mr. Jušnjevski, and they still live in it. Russian Jušnjevski did not invest nor maintain the villa so its age and
5/24/11 12:40:56 AM
57
zgradu je kupila u prilično derutnom stanju, a potom je 2006.godine u potpunosti obnovila i dogradila pretvorivši je u ekskluzivni turistički objekt na samom moru.
Zadržani secesijski simboli Zgrada je doživjela značajne promjene, no izvorni secesijski stil gradnje je zadržan. A cijela se obnova i nadogradnja Ville Nore odvijala uz suglasnost Konzervatorskog odjela u Rijeci. I danas nakon značajnih promjena koje je zgrada doživjela, pročelja vile krase secesijski simboli. Na sjevernom zidu vile to su dva guštera okrenuta jedan prema drugome. Drugi simbol je simbol sunca na zalasku koji se stapa s morem na južnoj strani zida, nad morem. Svi ovi simboli označavaju položaj i značenje stogodišnje ljepotice na samoj obali mora.
Turistička uloga Ville Nore Danas je Villa Nora ekskluzivni turistički objekt sa tri jednosobna apartmana i jednom sobom za četiri osobe. U zgradi je uređena i recepcija, a gostima je osiguran parking. Svi apartmani i sobe imaju velike terase nad samim morem, s kojih se gostu pruža prekrasan pogled. Villa ima i vrt, idealnu atmosfera za one koji vole spoj plavog i zelenog. Villa Nora nalazi se na odličnoj lokaciji uz samo more, u sportsko-rekreacionoj zoni na Kantridi. Uz istoimenu pažu, samo nekoliko metara udaljeno je plivalište Kantrida, te novouređena riječka plaža ispod bazenskog kompleksa. Za one koji vole samoću, Villa Nora ima direktan ulaz u more i ograđenu malu vlastitu plažu. Udaljena je šest kilometara od centra Rijeke, a četiri od Opatije. Za one koji ne vole odsjedati u velikim hotelima, Villa Nora je odličan izbor. A uz to, tko zna kakvu će vam priču iz bogate povijesti ispričati...
negligence have seriously bitten into it. The Predovan family, who planned to occupy themselves in the tourism business, bought the building in a relatively dilapidated condition, and in 2006 they completely renovated it transforming it into an exclusive tourist facility close to the sea.
Retained symbols of secession The building has experienced notable changes, but the original secession style of construction has been retained. The Rijeka Conservation Department has entirely monitored the reconstruction and extension of the Villa Nora building. Even today, after the notable changes that this building experienced, its facades are adorned by the symbols of secession. On the villa’s northern wall there are two lizards turned one towards the other. The other symbol is a symbol of a sunset where the sun merges with the sea and can be seen on the northern wall. These symbols refer to the position and meaning of this centennial beauty, situated so close to the sea.
Villa Nora’s tourism role Today Villa Nora is an exclusive tourism facility with three oneroom apartments and one room for four people. There is also a reception area as well as a car park for guests. All the apartments and rooms have large terraces over the sea, from which guests can enjoy a beautiful view. The Villa also has a garden, which is excellent for creating an ideal atmosphere for all those who love the combination of blue and green. Villa Nora has an excellent location at Kantrida, in a sport and recreational zone close to the sea. Close to the beach of the same name, just a few metres away is the Kantrida swimming-pool as well as newly as the newly equipped Rijeka beach under the swimmingpool complex. For those looking for privacy, Villa Nora has a direct approach to the sea and a small, enclosed private beach. The Villa is six kilometres from Rijeka’s city centre and four kilometres from Opatija. For those who prefer not to stay in large hotels, Villa Nora is an excellent choice. And besides that, who knows what story from its rich history you will have the pleasure of hearing.
56-57 vila Nora.indd 57
5/24/11 12:41:19 AM
58
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić
Papa Ivan Pavao II odabrao je Rijeku za boravište tijekom svog pastoralnog pohoda. Soba u kojoj je boravio postala je svojevrsni muzej
Pope John Paul II chose Rijeka as his residence during his pastoral visit. The room where he lived was transformed into a kind of museum
Papina rezidencija The Pope’s residence Nikada riječke ulice nisu bile sigurnije, a multinacionalna Rijeka spokojnija kao u razdoblju od 5. do 9. lipnja 2003. godine, kad je odlukom Svete Stolice, grad na Rječini odabran za petodnevnu rezidenciju blaženika pape Ivana Pavla II. Podsjetimo kako je to bilo stoto apostolsko putovanje Karola Wojtyle izvan Italije u 25 godina njegova pontifikata i treći pastoralni pohod Hrvatskoj u samo devet godina. Stalna rezidencija Svetoga Oca bilo je Bogoslovno sjemenište u Tizianovoj ulici, odakle je Papa, pod geslom „Obitelj - put Crkve i naroda“, pohodio Dubrovnik, Osijek, Đakovo i Zadar, upozoravajući na važnost obitelji kao prenositeljice biološkoga i života vjere. Osim na duhovnom, bila je to velika promidžba Hrvatske na međunarodnom i turističkom planu, čemu je blagopokojnik trajno ostavio pečat, posebice u rezidenciji koja je za njegov dolazak pomno pripremana.
58-60 Papina Rezidencija 3.indd 58
Never have Rijeka’s streets been so secure, and multinational Rijeka as tranquil as in the period from 5th to 9th June 2003, when following the decision by the Holy See, the town on the Rječina was chosen as the five-day residence of the Holy Pope John Paul II. Remember that this was the 100th apostolic journey of Karol Wojtyla out of Italy, in the 25 years of his pontificate and the 3rd pastoral visit to Croatia in only nine years. The Holy Father’s permanent residence was the Theological seminary in Tizianova Street, from where the Pope, under the aphorism “Family – the path of the Church and the people" visited Dubrovnik, Osijek, Đakovo and Zadar, warning about the importance of the family as a transferor of biological life and belief. Besides the spiritual importance, it was a great promotion of Croatia within the international and tourist field, and to which the late Pope left his eternal mark, particularly at the residence that was carefully prepared for his arrival. Rijeka
5/24/11 12:42:07 AM
59
Riječani će danas pak reći da ju sjemeništarci brižno čuvaju; gotovo poput švicarske garde u Vatikanu. No, svoja vrata ipak otvaraju i ponosno pokazuju odaje u kojima Wojtylin duh i danas živi, zajedno s nadom potrebnom čovjeku na početku trećeg tisućljeća, odupirući se lošim vijestima. „Ponosni smo što je blaženik, blagopokojni papa Ivan Pavao II, boravio u našem Sjemeništu. Čuvamo uspomenu na njega u nazivu našega Sjemeništa, bisti s njegovim likom na ulazu, spomen sobi u kojoj je prebivao, oltarom vanjske kapele na kojem je na svetkovinu Duhova na Delti s mnoštvom naroda slavio svetu misu, opremom unutarnje kapele s kojom se služio za svoju privatnu pobožnost i za slavlje mise zadnjega dana svog boravka u Rijeci i to upravo na blagdan zaštitnice naše kapele, Blažene djevice Marije; Majke Crkve, Marije kojoj je on bio u svakoj prilici odan. Proglašenjem blaženim on mladićima koji se u ovoj zgradi pripremaju za svećenički poziv na poseban način postaje zagovornik, a njegova osoba uzor, da budu hrabri i odvažni navjestitelji Isusove poruke u suvremenom svijetu“- kazao nam je dekan riječkog Bogoslovnog fakulteta msgr. Nikola Uravić dodajući da su vrata za sve posjetitelje Papine rezidencije otvorena, ali uz prehodnu najavu. „Sveti otac Ivan Pavao II mogao je izabrati puno udobnije mjesto za petodnevni boravak u Hrvatskoj, ali je ipak odabrao Rijeku i to zbog Trsata, jer je privatno želio posjetiti Svetište Majke Božje Trsatske koji se povezuje s biblijskim Nazaretom i talijanskim Loretom. Tadašnji biskupi Riječke metropolije, pokojni Tamarut, Bozanić i Bogetić na čelu s kardinalom Kuharićem još su 1991. godine Papi uputili poziv za posjet Svetištu, povodom njegove 700-te obljetnice. Taj poziv se u Vatikanu čuvao sve dok nije došao pravi trenutak za posjet Rijeci“- ispričao nam je fra Serafin.
inhabitants will say that the seminary’s members carefully took care of it; almost like the Swiss Guards in the Vatican. In any case, they have opened their doors and proudly show the rooms where the spirit of Wojtyla still lives today, alongside the hope man needs at the beginning of this third millennium, resisting the consistently bad news. “We are proud that the blessed, late Pope John Paul II stayed at our Seminary. We safeguard our memory of him in the name of our Seminary, with a bust in his image at the entrance, a memorial room where he stayed, an altar of the outer chapel on which he celebrated the Holy Mass on the Day of the Holy Spirit on the Delta with numerous people, and using the equipment of the internal chapel that he used for his private prayers and for the celebration of Mass on the last day of his stay in Rijeka, which was precisely on the feast day of the protector of our chapel, the Holy Virgin Mary; the Mother of the Church, Mary to whom he was committed at all times. In being beatified he becomes a beseecher in such a particular way for all those young men who prepare themselves for the sacerdotal call in this building, whilst he as a person becomes exemplar, to be courageous and brave harbingers of the Jesus’ message in the modern world" - the dean of Rijeka's Theological Faculty, Msgr. Nikola Uravić said, adding that the doors to all visitors to the Pope’s residence are open after previous announcement. “The Holy Father John Paul II could have chosen a more comfortable place for his five-day stay in Croatia, but despite this he chose Rijeka, for Trsat, because it was his private wish to visit the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Trsat which is connected to the biblical Nazareth and the Italian Loretto. At that time, the bishops of Rijeka’s Metropolita, the late Tamarut, Bozanić and Bogetić led by cardinal Kuharić had already sent an invitation to the Pope back in 1991 to visit the Sanctuary, on the occasion of its 700th anniversary. That invitation was preserved at the Vatican until the right occasion to visit Rijeka arrived” – fra Serafin told us.
Radionice riječkih obrtnika
Rijeka’s craftsmen’s workshops
Za istaknuti je kako je uređenje čitavog interijera u kojem je Papa u sjemeništu stanovao i primao u audijencije projektirao inženjer Željko Mahulja, kao i stolice korištene u tim prilikama. Izrada namještaja za Papine odaje povjerena
It must be emphasized that the entire interior of the seminary premises where the Pope stayed and where he gave audience as well as the chairs used for the occasions, were designed by engineer, Željko Mahulja. Manufacture of the furniture for the Pope’s
58-60 Papina Rezidencija 3.indd 59
5/24/11 12:42:30 AM
60
je, sada već gotovo 40-godišnoj riječkoj stolarskoj obitelji Alojzija Baričevića i njegovim sinovima s Gornjeg Zameta, te njegovom dugogodišnjem prijatelju i kolegi Ivanu Mušnjaku koji su kvalitetom odavno stekli povjerenje mnogih. U njihovoj je radionici, po nacrtima i dimenzijama Svete Stolice, izrađeno osam stolica za Papu; tri gotovo identične od orahova drva i pet jednostavnijih javorovih; neke za rezidenciju u Bogoslovskom sjemeništu- blagovaonicu i prostor u kojem se susretao s predstavnicima države i drugim uglednicima, jedna za Jadrolinijin katamaran kojima je iz Omišlja doputovao u Rijeku, a dvije za Đakovo. U Baričevićevoj radionici izrađeni su krevet i sav ostali namještaj u papinim bojama– prevladavajuće bijeloj sa žuto-zlatnim detaljima, te neveliki oltar sa svetohraništem za kućnu kapelu kojom se Papa u sjemeništu svaki dan služio. Sve stolice su unikatne, a razlikuju se po naslonu, duborezu ili tapecirungu. Ručni rad stolara svjedoči pak o tome kako su u te predmete unijeli dio svoje duše i ljubavi prema Svetom Ocu. Dimenzije kreveta također su bile određene, a sve ostale pojedinosti osmislili su riječki majstori, odabirući dominantu bijelu boju, dok su samo detalji, poput hrvatskog pletera, obojani u zlatnu. Dok je papamobilom prolazio riječkim prometnicama, Ivana Pavla II srdačno su pozdravljali svi stanovnici neovisno o vjerskoj pripadnosti, jer je svojim porukama pozivao na mir, zajedništvo i temeljne ljudske vrijednosti. Često se moglo čuti da je svako pastirsko putovanje Ivana Pavla II bilo povijesni događaj; milijuni su ga ljudi vidjeli i čuli. Njegove riječi i nastupi nikoga nisu ostavili ravnodušnima. On je jednostavno osvajao svojom produhovljenom ljudskošću, a hrvatski mu je narod posvuda iskazivao dirljivo svjedočanstvo ljubavi. Ono u Tizianovoj ulici i na Trsatu samo su neka koja nedvojbeno vrijedi ne samo vidjeti nego i posjetiti odnosno osjetiti.
58-60 Papina Rezidencija 3.indd 60
chambers was charged to the Rijeka joiner family of Alojzije Baričević and his sons who lived at Gornji Zamet and with a tradition of almost 40 years together with their long-time friend and colleague, Ivan Mušnjak. They are well known by many for the quality of their work. In their workshops, following drawings and dimensions determined by the Holy See, eight chairs were manufactured for the Pope; three were almost identical, and were made of walnut whilst five more simple chairs were manufactured from maple; some of them for his residence in the Theological seminary – the dining-room and in the place he met the government officials and other personalities, one for the Jadrolinija's catamaran on which he came from Omišalj to Rijeka, and two for Đakovo. A bed and other furniture were also manufactured at Baričević’s workshop in the Pope’s colours – mostly white with yellow – with golden details, and not a big altar with a tabernacle for the house chapel which the Pope used daily when at the seminary. Every chair is unique and can be distinguished for its back, carving or upholstery. Evidence of the Joiner’s manufacturing work could be seen in each of the items as part of their soul and their love for the Holy Father. The dimensions of the bed were also determined whilst all other particulars were conceived by Rijeka craftsmen, who chose the dominant colour of white whilst only details, like the Croatian hurdle were painted in gold. When passing along the streets in Rijeka in his popemobile, John Paul II was greeted warmly by all the local inhabitants, no matter what their religious belief as in his messages he invited his audience to live in peace, together and in respect of basic human values. It can be said that each pastoral visit by John Paul II was a historical event; he was seen and heard by millions of people. His words and appearance have left no-one indifferent. He simply seized the moment with his refined humanity, whilst everywhere the Croatian people showed him a touching testimony of love. This is what can be seen in Tizianova Street and on Trsat being just part of what undoubtedly is worth not only to see, but to visit – and to feel.
5/24/11 12:42:55 AM
Novi grad / New city
61
Piše / Written by: Andrea Bralić Marić Fotografije / Photos: Pepe Rosso
Pepe Rosso
neobična konoba u srcu grada
An unusual tavern in the heart of the city centre Rijeka je poznata po brojnim kvalitetnim mjestima za zabavu koja svojim izgledom i sadržajem odskaču od prosjeka. Tu svakako treba ubrojiti i konobu Pepe Rosso koja se nalazi u samom srcu grada, na jednom od najfrekventnijih mjesta - nadomak gradske tržnice.
Rijeka is famous for its numerous quality entertainment places which, by their appearance and content, stand out from the average. Here should certainly be included the Pepe Rosso tavern located in the very city centre, on one of the most visited places - close to the city market.
U Verdijevoj ulici, na broju 19 a, naći ćete ne sasvim običnu konobu u kojoj se osim bogatstva mediteranskih okusa, nudi i prilično širok repertoar kulturnih i zabavnih sadržaja.
In Verdijeva Street number 19a you will find the unusual tavern which, besides the richness of Mediterranean tastes, is offered pretty wide range of cultural and entertainment contents.
Gotovo svakodnevno ovdje se održavaju izložbe, svirke uživo i umjetnički performansi. Donedavno se utorkom održavao tečaj argentinskog tanga pa su Pepe Rosso pohodili i velemajstori svjetskog glasa, tango par Francisco Forquera i Carolina Bonaventura. Srijedom se i dalje pleše živopisna salsa, uz živu glazbu ili pratnju poznatih D.J.-a.
Almost on daily basis, here take place exhibitions, live music and artistic performances. Since recently, on Thursdays the Argentinian tango courses took place there, so that Pepe Rosso was visited by the world famous dancers, tango pair Francisco Forquera and Carolina Bonaventura. On Wednesdays is still danced the vivid salsa, with live music and famous DJs.
Za ljubitelje dobre kapljice i ukusnih gastronomskih delicija tu su česte promocije jela i pića.
For the lovers of good drinks and tasteful gastronomic delicacies here often take place promotions of food and drink.
Vikendi su u Pepe Rossu rezervirani za žive svirke, a budući da i tu vrijedi "pravilo raznovrsnosti", do sada su nastupali blueseri, jazzeri, rockeri, alternativci, funk i soul izvođači. Zdenka Kovačiček bila im je u gostima čak dva puta, a osim nje gostovali su Doc Johnson & Backbone, Small House Brown, Dubravko Vorih Blues Band, Ljetno kino, Norma Belle, Harpoon Blues Band, Alen Brentini, Arsen i Matija Dedić....
Weekends in Pepe Rosso are reserved for live music, and as even here is valid the “rule of diversity” by now here performed blues, jazz, rock, alternative music, funk and soul performance. Zdenka Kovačiček was a guest for even two times, and besides her, the guests were also Doc Johnson & Backbone, Small House Brown, Dubravko Vorih Blues Band, Ljetno kino, Norma belle, Harpoon Blues Bandm, Alen Brentini, Arsen and Matija Dedić...
Radno vrijeme konobe je od 07:30 do 02:00 sata, nedjeljom zatvoreno.
The tavern’s working hours are from 7:30 am until 02:00 am whilst on Sundays the tavern is closed.
61 PepeRosso.indd 61
5/24/11 12:43:27 AM
62
Novi grad / New city
Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić Fotografije / Photos: Muzej grada Rijeke/Rijeka City Museum, Dean Miculinić
Muzejski prostor priziva ugođaj morskih dubina, onih istih kojima se nekada kretao riječki torpedo, a danas posjetitelji izložbe This museum facility evokes the atmosphere of the sea’s profundity; as once did Rijeka’s torpedo and today the exhibition visitors continue to move
Torpedo u srcu grada Torpedo in the heart of the city Tisuće posjetitelja koji ne prestaju hrliti prema Muzeju grada Rijeke da bi pogledali izložbu Riječki torpedo – prvi na svijetu, znaju kako se tom izložbom slavni riječki izum, u simboličkom smislu, vraća na mjesto s kojeg je i krenuo u svijet. Rijeka je rodno mjesto torpeda, njegova prva kolijevka, grad u kojem je učinio prve korake. Riječani su za njega emotivno vezani. Na uvjerljiv način to pokazuje upravo izložba gradskog Muzeja. Premda je postavljena krajem prošle godine i otvorena do rujna 2011., grupni i individualni posjeti ne posustaju. Naravno, u mnoštvu s kojim ćete se susresti u Muzeju, Riječani su samo dio cjeline…
Thousands of visitors are hurrying to the Rijeka City Museum to see the exhibition about Rijeka’s torpedo – which was the first in the world, as they know that with this exhibition a famous Rijeka invention, has, in a symbolic sense, been brought back to the place from where it went out into the world. Rijeka is the birthplace of the torpedo, its first cradle, the town where it took its first steps. Rijeka inhabitants are emotionally connected to it. In a convincing way, exactly as the City Museum’s exhibition shows it. Although positioned at the end of the last year, it will be open until September 2011, both group and individual visits have not abated. Of course, in the crowd you will encounter at the Museum, Rijeka inhabitants will only be part of them....
Otkud torpedo u Rijeci? Kako je završio diljem svijeta? I zašto danas ponovo dolazi u mjesto svoga rođenja, kao zvijezda atraktivne muzejske priče?
How did the torpedo come to Rijeka? How did it finish up all around the world? And why is it returning to its birthplace today,as the star of an attractive museum story?
Cijelu je stvar davne 1860. eksplozivno zakuhao Riječanin Giovanni Biaggio Luppis (Ivan Blaž Vukić). Tom umirovljenom kapetanu fregate sinula je zamisao o obrambenom oružju nazvanom „spasitelj obale“ koje je trebalo uništavati neprijateljske brodove na daljinu. Luppisov izum zapravo je čamac bez posade, s pogonskim mehanizmom na pero i vijak, kojim se upravljalo konopcima s kopna, a udarom u brod u čamcu bi se aktivirao eksploziv. Da bi plovilo bilo manje vidljivo, jedan prototip opremljen je - staklenim jedrom.
Long ago, in 1860, a Rijeka inhabitant, Giovanni Biaggio Luppis (Ivan Blaž Vukić) stirred the whole thing up in an explosive way. This retired frigate captain had an idea to make a defence weapon which he called the “rescuer of the coast”, which was intended to destroy enemy ships from a distance. Luppis’s invention was in fact a boat without crew that had a drive mechanism which worked with a spring and a screw. The boat was controlled from the land by cords and when the boat hit a ship, the explosive activated. To make the vessel less visible, one prototype was equipped with a glass sail.
62-63 torpedo.indd 62
5/24/11 12:44:15 AM
63
Naprava u pokusima nije pokazivala željene rezultate. Priča kreće uspješnijim stazama kada se izumitelj 1864. povezuje s Robertom Whiteheadom, ravnateljem Riječkog tehničkog zavoda (Stabilimento Tecnico Fiumano). Na temelju Luppisove ideje, Whitehead razvija nov proizvod koji uključuje nova tehnološka rješenja i novo polje kretanja, pa projektil više ne plovi morskom površinom, nego juri ispod nje – te ga naziva torpedo. Za novo su se oružje zainteresirale sve vojne sile, a na gradskoj periferiji 1875. nastaje prva svjetska tvornica torpeda. Proizvodnja će u Rijeci potrajati do 1966., što je točno stotinu godina od prvoga pokusnog lansiranja Luppis-Whiteheadova prototipa, a licenca za proizvodnju u međuvremenu će biti prodana u razne dijelove zemaljske kugle. Riječka tvornica radit će do kraja 1990-tih.
The device didn’t provide the desired results from the experiments. However, this story took a more successful path when in 1864, the innovator met Robert Whitehead, the director of the Rijeka Technical Institute (Stabilimento Tecnico Fiumano). Based on Luppis’ idea, Whitehead developed a new product which included new technological solutions and a new field of movement. So the projectile no longer floated on the surface of the sea but ran under it – and was called the torpedo. All military forces were interested in this new weapon so in 1875 the world’s first torpedo factory was built on the outskirts of the town. The torpedo was produced in Rijeka until 1966 which was exactly a hundred years from the first experimental launching of Luppis – Whitehead prototype whilst in the meantime the licence was sold in different parts of the globe. Rijeka’s factory continued working until the end of 1990.
Dakako, Riječani u izumu dvojice svojih nekadašnjih sugrađana manje vide oružje, a mnogo više nešto drugo. Torpedo se od isprva spore i nespretne ribe prometnuo u vrhunski stroj opremljen uređajima koji su odreda bivali dokazom ingenioniznih tehničkih rješenja svojih konstruktora. Ta su se rješenja svojedobno držala tajnima, pa je Whitehead imao u tvornici posebnu prostoriju za pohranjivanje nacrta i prototipova uređaja u koju su pristup imali samo on i nekoliko najodanijih suradnika. Ipak, rješenja iz torpeda s vremenom su našla put iz te sobe, bivajući primjenjivana u tehnološki složenim proizvodima poput podmornica i svemirskih raketa. Torpedo je zato znakom sjajnog dometa tehničke kulture i proizvodne sposobnosti ne samo jednoga grada i ne samo jednoga vremena. Kao u najboljim pričama, on te okvire višestruko prelazi, postajući poticajom današnjim tehničkim umovima da odvažno krenu ususret podjednako ingenioznim rješenjima u područjima kojima se trenutačno bave.
Of course, Rijeka inhabitants would rather see something other than a weapon being the innovation of two of their former fellow-citizens. From a slow and clumsy fish, the torpedo became a high-quality machine, equipped with devices that were all proof of the ingenious technical solutions of their constructors. Those solutions were once considered confidential so Whitehead had a separate room for storing his designs and prototypes of the devices to which only he and a few of his closest collaborators had access. Nonetheless, solutions from Torpedo over time have found their way out of that room, and have been technologically implemented into very complex products such as submarines and space rockets. In this way Torpedo is a sign of a great reach of technical culture and industrial capabilities not only of one town and not only of one period of time. As in all the best stories, it overcomes these frames many times, over and over again becoming stimulation for today’s technical brains to courageously meet equally ingenious solutions in the areas they are currently working in.
Polazište svega je, dakle, ljudski um, odnosno čovjek kao pojedinac, pa zato valja zabilježiti autore izložbe. To su dr. sc. Dinko Zorović, satnik Goran Pernjek i mr. sc. Ervin Dubrović, koji su Muzej grada Rijeke donijeli izvorne predmete poput najstarijih torpeda, motora i uređaja ugrađivanih u projektile, prototipove motora i raznih instrumenata, također makete riječke lansirne postaje i prvog Luppisovog modela „spasitelja obale“. U prikupljanju građe pomogli su Hrvatska ratna mornarica, MUP i Specijalna policija. Dojmljiv postav potpisuje dizajner Klaudio Cetina, koji je u muzejski prostor prizvao ugođaj morskih dubina, onih istih kojima se nekada kretao riječki torpedo, a danas posjetitelji izložbe, gotovo lebdeći između jurećih projektila.
The starting point is the human brain that is man as an individual, and this is how the authors of this exhibition will be recorded. They are dr.sc. Dinko Zorović, captain Goran Pernjek and mr. sc. Ervin Dubrović who brought original items such as the oldest torpedo, engines and devices mounted into projectiles, prototypes of the engine itself and a variety of instruments, a scale-model of Rijeka's launch ramp and the first Luppis model of the “rescuer of the coast” to the Rijeka City Museum. The Croatian Navy, the Ministry of the Interior and the Special Police have helped in collecting materials. Impressive exhibition signs designer, Klaudio Cetina, who evoked the atmosphere of the sea’s profundity, is the same as those where once the Rijeka torpedo moved and today it is the exhibition visitors who are moving, almost floating over the running projectiles.
Robert Whitehead
62-63 torpedo.indd 63
Divovski torpedo / A mammoth torpedo
5/24/11 12:44:32 AM
64
Tako je nekada bilo / This is how it once was
U potrazi za sretnijim životom, iz riječke luke je u SAD krenulo 300 tisuća emigranata
Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić Fotografije / Photos: Muzej grada Rijeke/Rijeka City Museum
Looking for a happier life, around 300 thousand of emigrants left the port of Rijeka and went to the USA
American dream
počinjao je u Rijeci
American dream was starting in Rijeka
Nije tajna da su morske luke oduvijek bila vrata kroz koja se ulazilo u gradove na obali. Još manje je tajna da se kroz te luke izlazilo iz gradova, hitajući na razne strane svijeta, ususret poslovnim izazovima, turističkim uzbuđenjima, u posjet dalekim prijateljima, kako već tko. I riječka luka je mjesto čija biografija uključuje brojne odlaske. Možda najintrigantnija putovanja te vrste zabilježena su prije stotinjak godina, kada je Rijeka, kao vodeća luka istočnog dijela Austro-Ugarske Monarhije, postala glavna prometna točka kroz koju su ekonomski emigranti iz toga dijela Europe odlazili prema američkom kontinentu. Godine su to vrlo učestalih odlazaka ekonomski deklasiranih slojeva stanovništva ka novom kontinentu, pravih ljudskih valova prema Novome svijetu, nastalih u vjeri kako je american dream odgovor
64-66 iseljenici.indd 64
It is not a secret, seaports have always been the gateways through which coastal towns were entered. Even less of a secret is that through those same ports people left the nearby towns, setting sail to different parts of the world, towards new business challenges, tourist excitements, to visit faraway friends, and family. Even the port of Rijeka is a place whose biography includes a number of departures. Maybe the most intriguing travels of this kind were registered around a hundred years ago when Rijeka, as a foremost port of the eastern part of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, become the main traffic point from which economic emigrants from that part of Europe left in the direction of the American continent. These were years of very frequent departures of the economically declassed inhabitants
5/24/11 12:45:16 AM
65
na sve njihove probleme. Američki san obećavao je šansu, upravo onu koja im je u vlastitoj domovini bila uskraćena. Riječ je o iseljenicima iz ugarskoga dijela Monarhije, mahom Mađarima, ali i o slavenskom stanovništvu, Nijemcima i Talijanima. Početkom 20. stoljeća u Rijeku se iz unutrašnjosti kontinenta godišnje slijevalo tridesetak tisuća duša željnih boljeg života. Brodarska kompanija Cunard otvorila je 1903. redovnu liniju za prijevoz emigranata na relaciji Rijeka – New York. Iz Rijeke koja je bila polazna luka, brod za New York kretao je svaka dva tjedna, odnoseći svaki put na svojim palubama po dvije tisuće putnika, upravo onoliko koliko ih je i mogao primiti. Jesmo li spomenuli 30-tak tisuća emigranata godišnje? Ako znamo da je Rijeka u to vrijeme imala upravo toliko stanovnika, to je zapravo bio grad u gradu. Mnoštvo neobičnih i nepoznatih ljudi na njezinim ulicama, od kojih je većina prvi puta u životu vidjela more i čudila se njegovoj pučini, neizbježno je moralo stvarati poteškoće u njihovu privremenom smještaju. Bila je to i prikladan temelj za porast kriminala svake vrste. Na inicijativu policijskih vlasti, te koristeći iskustva drugih europskih luka suočenih sa sličnim problemom, krenulo se u izgradnju posebnog objekta koji bi te privremene stanovnike grada okupio na jednome mjestu. Ne samo zato da bi se sigurnosno stanje lakše držalo onakvim kakvo dolikuje mirnom gradu, nego i zato da bi se svim putnicima omogućio civiliziraniji i humaniji boravak u Rijeci. Za potrebe njihova privremenog smještaja izgrađen je i početkom 1908. otvoren hotel znakovita naziva - Emigranti, na lokaciji udaljenoj desetak minuta hoda od željezničkog kolodvora i gradske luke, na početku današnje Baračeve ulice. Golema, duga, trokatna građevina mogla je prihvatiti dvije tisuće duša, upravo onoliko koliko ih je primao i brod za New York. Američki dužnosnici koji su tih godina obilazili pojedine europske luke, opisali su specijalizirani riječki hotel kao „jedan od najboljih u Europi“. Prema njihovom mišljenju „lokalni iseljenički hotel i njegovi sanitarni standardi uzor su za kojim bi se trebale povesti sve luke kroz koje iseljenici dolaze ili odlaze“. Zgrada je „modernoga stila, s okvirom od čelika i betona, u potpunosti osvijetljena strujom i grijana vodenom parom, opremljena svim suvremenim pomagalima“. Da bismo dobili potpuniji dojam o tim pogodnostima, valja se upitati koliko je samih Riječana u to doba u svojim domovima uživalo u blagodatima vodene pare i električne energije. U istočnom krilu zdanja nalazile su se dvije velike spavaonice, u kojima se provodila prva noć, pred zdravstveni pregled. Nakon susreta s liječnikom, slijedilo je kupanje i davanje odjeće na dezinfekciju. Na prvom i drugom katu nalazile su se 24 obiteljske spavaonice. Zgrada je imala ambulantu, brijačnicu, veliku blagovaonicu, ured za izdavanje putnih karata, prodavaonicu hrane, pića i higijenskih potrepština, poštanski ured i drugo.
64-66 iseljenici.indd 65
to the new continent, true waves of humanity towards the New world, that were created by a belief that the American dream was the answer to all of their problems. The American dream promised a chance, precisely that which their homeland withheld. It is with regard to the emigrants from the Hungarian part of the Monarchy, mostly Hungarians but also Slavic inhabitants, Germans and Italians. At the beginning of the 20th century, around thirty thousand people looking for a better life came to Rijeka every year from inland. The shipping Company Cunard in 1903 opened a regular line for the transportation of emigrants, on the Rijeka – New York route. A ship bound for New York left from Rijeka, the port of departure, every two weeks, each time carrying on its decks around two thousand passengers, as this was its full capacity. Did we mention around 30 thousand emigrants a year? If we were to make a comparison, this is an entire town, if we remember that Rijeka at that time had exactly that number of inhabitants. Due to the many unusual and unknown people on its streets, the majority of them saw the sea for the first time in their lives and were astonished at its high seas, and the difficulties in their temporary accommodation was unavoidable. It was an easy basis for the increase of every kind of criminal. Following the initiative of the police authorities and the experience of other European ports faced with a similar problem, it was decided to start construction of a particular facility aimed at bringing together those temporary town inhabitants in one place. Not only to maintain the level of safety as befits a quiet town, but also to enable passengers to stay in Rijeka in a civilized and human way. For the purpose of their temporary accommodation, a hotel with the significant name Emigranti (Emigrants) was built and opened at the beginning of 1908, in a location around ten minutes by foot from the railway station and the town’s port, at the beginning of today’s Baračeva Street. The capacity of the huge, long, three-floored building was for two thousand souls, precisely the capacity of the ship for New York. American officials visiting a number of European ports at the time, saw it, and
ISELJENIŠTVO
EMIGRANTS
Ove je veljače župan Zlatko Komadina predstavio Kvarner u New Yorku na turističkom sajmu “The times travel show”.
This February the county ruler Zlatko Komadina represented the Kvarner in New York on the "The times travel show” tourist fair.
Tom se prilikom susreo sa brojnom hrvatskom iseljeničkom zajednicom koja dolazi iz kvarnerskog i istarskog kraja.
On that occasion he met the members of numerous Croatian emigrants’ community, coming from Kvarner and Istria area.
5/24/11 12:45:31 AM
66
Podatak koji govori da je uoči Prvog svjetskog rata morskim putem u Novi svijet iz Rijeke odlazilo 50 tisuća iseljenika godišnje, svjedoči da je posao u hotelu Emigranti bio više nego dobro organiziran – ali i da se ekonomsko stanje najširih slojeva stanovništva u Monarhiji neće kretati u dobrom smjeru, te da će posla u riječkom hotelu biti sve više. Naravno, rat će takve putove prekinuti, a hotel će potom zapeti za oko nekim drugim korisnicima. Njegovo zdanje danas je zanimljivo ne samo povjesničarima europskih i američkih emigracija, nego i proučavateljima graditeljstva, odnosno umjetnosti. U secesijskoj građevini hotela Emigranti moguće je prepoznati rani primjer upotrebe armiranobetonske konstrukcije na tlu Hrvatske. Zasluga je to njegova projektanta, uglednoga mađarskog graditelja Szilarda Zielinskog, koji je svoja radna iskustva stjecao, između ostalog i u pariškom uredu inženjera Gustava Eifela. No, oni koji su prošli kroz hodnike građevine u Baračevoj ulici, koji su u njoj noćili, sanjajući brod što čeka u riječkoj luci da ih povede na putovanje prema obećavajućoj Americi, mora da su takve arhitektonske odlike slabo primjećivali. U prvih desetak godina 20. Stoljeća, kroz riječku je luku prošlo ukupno 300 tisuća iseljenika i svima njima Rijeka je ponajprije ostala u mislima kao prva vrata kroz koja moraju proći na putu u sretnije sutra. I ta su se vrata u pravilu otvarala. Druga vrata čekala su ih nakon putovanja morem, na njujorškom Eliss Islandu. Hoće li se pak ona otvoriti, ovisilo je o strogim, ispitivačkim pogledima službenika tamošnjeg ureda za useljavanje.
64-66 iseljenici.indd 66
described the specialized Rijeka hotel as “one of the best in Europe”. According to them, a “local emigrants” hotel and its sanitary standards was the model for which every single port through which emigrants arrived or departured should take an example. The building is “stylistically completely modern, framed with steel and concrete, completely lit by electricity and heated with water steam and equipped with all modern apparatus". To have a more complete feeling about those advantages, it is right to ask oneself how many Rijeka inhabitants at that time enjoyed such advantages of water steam and electricity. In the eastern wing of the facility, there were two large dormitories where guests spent their first night, before their medical examination. After they met the doctor, went for a bath and handed their clothes in for disinfection. On the first and second floors, there were 24 family dormitories. Within the building there was a surgery, a barber's shop, a large dining room, an office for issuing travel tickets, a drugstore, a post office and other such services. As it was obvious that the economic situation of the wider classes of the Monarchy’s population would not change for the better, there continued to be ever more work for Rijeka's hotel Emigranti, where the work was so well organized. Testimony of this can be seen on the eve of the First World War, when around 50 thousand emigrants were leaving annually from Rijeka to the New World by sea. Of course, the war stopped this and the hotel would later catch the eye of other users. Today, this facility is interesting not only to historians working on European and American emigration, but also to researchers of construction and art. Within the secession building of the Emigranti hotel, it is possible to recognize an example of the early use of reinforced concrete in building construction in the Croatian area. This is the merit of its designer, the prominent Hungarian constructor, Szilard Zielinski, who gained his work experience, amongst others, at the Paris office of the engineer Gustav Eiffel. But, those who passed the halls of the building in Baračeva Street, those who stayed the night there, dreaming of a boat waiting in Rijeka's port to take them on a trip towards the promised land of America may not have noticed these architectural features so well. Within the first ten years of the 20th century, a total of 300 hundred thousand emigrants passed through the Rijeka port and to all of them Rijeka has remained in their memories as the first gateway they had to pass on their journey to a happier tomorrow. And that gateway opened, as a rule. The second gateway awaiting them after their sea trip was on New York's Ellis Island. Could they open depended on the rigorous, inquiring looks of the clerk at the immigration office there?
5/24/11 12:45:53 AM
Tako je nekada bilo / This is how it once was
Spomenete li u Rijeci ime Karoline Belinić, gotovo da nema prolaznika kojemu se lice neće razvući u osmijeh
67
Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić, Muzej grada Rijeke/Rijeka City Museum
If you say the name of Carolina Bellnich in Rijeka, there is almost no passer-by who will not smile widely
Heroina Karolina Karolina, the heroine Žene znaju povezati i ono što će teško spojiti u cjelinu najrazmahanija mašta. Primjer? Ugodna šetnja osunčanim gatovima riječke luke, topovska kugla u vanjskom zidu gradske katedralne crkve i 15. lipnja - dan kršćanskoga zaštitnika Rijeke. Reklo bi se, ako između luke, crkve i topova ima kakvih spona, mora da su tajnovite, pa ih možemo samo naslućivati.
Women are able to connect even when the richest fantasy would have difficulty connecting. An example? A pleasant walk along the port of Rijeka’s sunny wharfs a cannonball in the outer wall of Rijeka's cathedral, the patron saint of Rijeka and the 15th of June. It might be said, that if there are any connections between the port, the church and the cannon, they are certainly mysterious, so we can only make assumptions.
A ipak, spomenete li u Rijeci ime Karoline Belinić, gotovo da nema prolaznika kojemu se lice neće razvući u osmijeh. „Karolina Riječka? Tko još ne zna za našu Karolinu?!“ Pa će uz malo sreće, započeti priča o riječkoj dami koja se, iako je živjela u 19. stoljeću, likom i djelom urezala sugrađanima u memoriju. I, što je podjednako važno, koja na intrigantan način spaja tako nespojive točke poput topovske đuladi, lučkog kamena i ulica punih Riječana na njima poseban dan.
Nevertheless, if you say the name of Carolina Bellnich in Rijeka, there is almost no passer-by who will not smile widely. ”Karolina Riječka? Is there anyone who is not familiar with our Karolina?!” So, if you are lucky, you will hear a story about a lady from Rijeka whose character and actions have been engraved onto their memories until today, even if she lived in the 19th century. And, what is equally important is the person connecting these unconnectable points like cannonballs, rocks
67-69 Karolina Ri2.indd 67
5/24/11 12:47:07 AM
68
Priča o Karolini započinje 1813. godine kad su pred Rijekom osvanuli brodovi britanske ratne flote. Bio je 3. srpnja i pet se ratnih brodova usidrilo na dvije pomorske milje od grada. Riječani su u prvi mah pomislili kako se došljaci žele opskrbiti vodom i radoznalo ih promatrali. Iznenadan topovski plotun s mora natjerao ih je u zaklon. S jedne od gradskih tvrđava vatra je uzvraćena, a neprijatelj je pogođen. Nije pomoglo. Nakon što su kopnene cijevi ušutkane, na obalu su pristala 22 brodića s manjim topovima i gotovo 600 britanskih vojnika. Flota je za vrijeme iskrcavanja nastavila zasipati kuglama područje Starog grada i Trsata. Na brodovima su vjerovali da bi se tu mogle nalaziti Napoleonove trupe s kojima je Britanija tih godina bila u sukobu. Uplašeni stanovnici krenuli su čim dalje izvan grada. Isto su učinile vojne snage koje su se nalazile u njemu, a što je najgore na povlačenje su se odlučili i predstavnici gradske vlasti. Britanci počinju nemilosrdno paliti jedrenjake u tadašnjem pristaništu na Fiumari dok je plamen s njih prijetio obližnjim kućama. U općem metežu se iz kuće br. 431 na Fiumari pojavila mlada žena i - krenula prema Britancima. Prisebna duha, s namjerom da dođe do zapovjednika osvajačkih snaga koji se nalazio uz topovsku bateriju nedaleko od gradskog središta. Htjela je s njime razgovarati. Na temelju kojih argumenata je očekivala da će je htjeti primiti na razgovor?
Karolinina misteriozna uloga Zli jezici će godinama nakon toga ključne argumente pronalaziti u njezinim godinama (bilo joj je samo 22), u crnoj
from the port and the streets crowded with Rijeka citizens in such a intriguing way on a day so important to them. The tale of Karolina begins in 1813 when ships of the British navy appeared in front of Rijeka. It was the 3rd of July and five navy ships anchored in a distance of two nautical miles from the town. At first the Rijeka observed the newcomers, thinking they needed some water. A stunning broadside salvo made them take cover. Firing was returned from one of the town’s castles, and the enemy was hit. It didn’t help. Once the land cannons were silenced, some 22 small ships with smaller cannons and almost 600 British soldiers put to shore. During the landing, the fleet continued to fill the area of the Old town centre and Trsat with cannon-balls. The British soldiers aboard the ships believed that Napoleon’s troops with whom Britain was in conflict at the time were located there. The frightened citizens ran as far away as possible from the town, as did the military forces situated in the town, however (what was worse) even the representatives of the town’s authorities decided to withdraw. The British began mercilessly burning the sailing boats docked at the pier on Fiumara and fire from it jeopardized the nearby houses. From within the chaos, a young woman appeared from house N° 431 on Fiumara and began walking towards the British troops. She was very calm and her intention was to reach the commander of the conqueroring forces who was situated close to the artillery battery not far from the town centre. She wanted to speak with him. What did she expect would be the reasons that would make him talk to her?
Karolina's mysterious role Wicked tongues would in the years to follow, would say that the key reasons for her success were her age (she was only 22), the black dress she was wearing, and most of all in her neckline. But these people forgot that this brave woman, Mrs Carolina Bellnich, was not just anyone. She was born to a respected family of Rijeka merchants Kranjec, taking the Bellnich surname in 1808 when she married the wholesale merchant, Andrija Bellnich. Her father, Franjo, was a captain who had three houses, two mills, forests, a vineyard, and a sailing ship; he was also a founder of a wood and tobacco trading company etc. Thanks to his wealth and reputation, he was appointed to honour Rijeka's patrician councillors. The most important fact of this story is that in 1707, he was appointed as British vice-consul for that part of the Adriatic coast, which had its headquarters in Rijeka. He would perform this task until 1806 when Carolina's step-brother took over. At the moment she stepped in front of the high ranking British officer, Carolina was the daughter and wife of two people who, as consular representatives, represented the same interests as the officer himself that is the interests of the British crown.
Topovska kugla u pročelju crkve Sv. Vida A cannonball in facade of church of St. Vitus
67-69 Karolina Ri2.indd 68
How their communication progressed, wasn’t registered. But, there is no doubt that Carolina explained that further destruction of the town was useless as the enemy army had already left it. The citizens of Rijeka were also unenthusiastic about French domination, and considered the British soldiers to
5/24/11 12:47:28 AM
69
haljini koju je imala na sebi, a ponajviše u dekolteu. Oni međutim zaboravljaju kako ta odvažna žena, gđa Karolina Belinić, nije bilo tko. Rođena je u uglednoj riječkoj trgovačkoj obitelji Kranjec, a prezime Belinić nosi od 1808. kad se udala za veletrgovca Andriju Belinića. Njezin otac Franjo je bio pomorski kapetan, posjedovao je tri kuće, dva mlina, šume, vinograd, jedrenjak, bio je osnivač tvrtke za trgovinu drvom i duhanom… Zbog bogatstva i ugleda imenovan je u redove počasnih riječkih patricijskih vijećnika. Što je u ovoj priči najvažnije, imenovan je 1707. i britanskim vicekonzulom za taj dio jadranskog primorja, sa sjedištem u Rijeci. Tu će dužnost obnašati do 1806. kad je preuzima Karolinin polubrat Ignazije. U trenutku stupanja pred visokoga britanskog časnika, Karolina je bila kći i supruga dvaju osoba koje su u Rijeci, kao konzularni predstavnici, zastupali iste one interese koje je zastupao i taj časnik - interese britanske krune. Kako je tekao razgovor, nije zabilježeno. No, nedvojbeno je Karolina objasnila da je daljnje razaranje grada besmisleno obzirom da se neprijateljska vojska iz njega već povukla. Vjerojatno i to da sami Riječani nisu bili oduševljeni francuskom vladavinom, te da su britanske vojnike smatrali osloboditeljima. Jesu li njezine riječi bile uvjerljive? Najbolji odgovor na to pitanje bio je prestanak vojnih djelovanja. Grad je pošteđen većeg razaranja. S njime i kuće stanovnika, trgovačka skladišta s robom, brodovi na vezu. Svi su u gradu odahnuli. Treći dan Britanci su otplovili, tražeći francuske trupe drugdje. Tijekom napada na Rijeku, Karolinin suprug se također, kao zapovjednik narodne garde, istaknuo hrabrošću. Zbog zasluga je primljen u redove gradskih patricija. Riječani se nisu zaboravili odužiti ni Karolini, znajući kako je svojim odvažnim činom i sama mnogo riskirala obzirom da je tada bila majka četiri djevojčice. Gradska vlast odala joj je 1829. priznanje, godine 1901. daruje općinskome muzeju njezin portret, a 1905. naziva njenim imenom jednu gradsku ulicu. Tako je to bilo jučer. A danas? Njenim imenom naziva se gat u samom središtu gradske luke. Protegnemo li korake od Gata Karoline Riječke prema Starom gradu i zastanemo pred crkvom sv. Vida, lijevo od ulaza pogled privlači neobičan predmet. Iz pročelja viri topovska kugla. Ispod nje je metalna pločica s ubilježenom godinom 1813. i zapisom: „Ovo voće poslala je Engleska kad je odavde htjela istjerati Gale.“. Kugla u zidu jedna je od onih što su letjele nad glavama Riječana, od čijeg ih je strašnog učinka spasila Karolina. Tu ne prestaje kraj zanimljivostima u vezi s događajem kojemu je ona glavni protagonist. Na Dan sv. Vida, današnjega gradskog zaštitnika, koji se obilježava 15. lipnja, Riječani su svojedobno proslavljali i godišnjicu oslobođenja od francuske vladavine. Liku gradske heroine, koju se vremenom prozvalo Karolinom Riječkom, posvećeni su 1950-tih drama hrvatskog književnika Drage Gervaisa i istoimeni igrani film, a 2003. mjuzikl u riječkom HNK Ivana pl. Zajca.
67-69 Karolina Ri2.indd 69
be their liberators. Were her words so persuasive? The best answer to that question is end of military action. Town was spared from even greater destruction. As were the citizens' houses, merchandise warehouses and the moored ships. Everybody in the town was relieved. On the third day, the British fleet sailed away, looking for the French troops. During the attack on Rijeka, Carolina’s husband also distinguished himself for his courage, as commander of the national Guards. Thanks to his merits, he was appointed to town patrician. The citizens of Rijeka haven’t forgotten to requite themselves with the good Carolina, knowing how much she risked with her courageous act as she was mother to four girls. The town authority praised her in 1829, and in 1901 donates her portrait to the municipal museum whilst in 1905 a town street was named after her. That is what it was like yesterday. And today? A wharf in the very centre of the city port carries her name. If we step out from the Karolina Riječka wharf to the Old city centre and stop in front of the St Vitus church, on the left side of the entrance, is an unusual item that draws attention, with a cannon-ball protruding out of the facade. Under the facade is a metal plate with the year 1813 engraved on it together with a legacy: “The British gave us these cannon-balls whilst chasing the French from here”. The cannon-ball in the wall is one of those which flew above the Rijeka citizens' heads, and of which disastrous impact Carolina saved them. But this is not the end of the curiosities related to the event in which she is the main protagonist. On St Vitus day, the present patron saint, which is celebrated on 15th June, the citizens of Rijeka once celebrated the anniversary of the liberation from French domination. In 1950, a drama by Croatian writer, Drago Gervais, and a feature film of the same name, as well as a musical in 2003 at the CNT “Ivan pl. Zajc” in Rijeka were made in honour of the town’s heroine, who over time has become known as Karolina Riječka.
5/24/11 12:47:46 AM
Novi grad / New city
Tower Centar Rijeka je idealno mjesto za kupovinu i opuťtanje The Rijeka Tower Centar – an ideal place for shopping and relaxation
Ultimativni shopping Ultimate shopping
70-71 Tower.indd 70
5/24/11 12:48:47 AM
71
Jeste li spremni zakoračiti u budućnost shoppinga? Onda dođite u Tower Center Rijeka, jedan od najvećih trgovačkih centara u Hrvatskoj koji je još 2006. godine kada je otvoren postao omiljeno okupljalište Riječana i posjetitelja Rijeke, te sinonim za ultimativni shopping. A zašto je to tako? Jednostavno je za objasniti. Nadaleko nema takve koncentracije sadržaja koji će privući vašu pažnju. U modernoj i elegantnoj galeriji čeka vas 150 trgovina s ponudom najboljih međunarodnih i domaćih robnih marki. Od odjeće, bijele tehnike i namještaja, pa sve do gift shop-a, Tower Center Rijeka će uistinu ispuniti sve vaše želje. Tu je i jedan hipermarket, osam megastorova, te niz korisnih usluga i sadržaja: banka, mjenjačnica, kemijska čistionica, nail bar, frizerski salon… Istaknuli bi i besplatnu uslugu modnog stilista, personal shoppera, s kojim ćete bez muke u trgovinama centra osmisliti idealnu odjevnu kombinaciju za svaku prigodu. Osim kupovine nudi se i zabava koju možete potražiti u multiplex kinu ili automat klubu na petom katu centra, u mnogobrojnim kafićima i restoranu, ili u dječjoj igraonici na drugom katu centra. Za posjetitelje pripremamo i mnoga događanja; u zimskom periodu na petom katu centra organiziramo jazz večeri, a posebnim programom u studenom obilježit ćemo i peti rođendan centra, te Advent i Svetog Nikolu. Ovdje ćete pronaći sav potreban komfor u neposrednoj blizini središta grada. U Tower Centru Rijeka na raspolaganju vam je osam etaža podzemnih i nadzemnih garaža s otprilike 2500 besplatnih parkirnih mjesta. Sve što trebate učiniti je opustiti se i potom se upustiti u obilazak svega ponuđenog obilja.
70-71 Tower.indd 71
Are you ready to step into the future of shopping? Then come to the Rijeka Tower Centar, one of the largest shopping Centars in Croatia which has, since its opening in 2006, become a favourite of Rijeka's citizens and visitors as well as a meeting point and synonym for the ultimate shopping experience. Why so? This is easy to explain. No other place offers such a concentration of facilities at a distance that will attract your attention. In a modern and elegant gallery, 150 shops are waiting for you with the best international and domestic brands. From clothes, through to household appliances and furniture, to the gift shops, the Rijeka Tower Centar will certainly satisfy all of your desires. There is also a hypermarket here as well as eight megastores and a series of useful services and contents: bank, exchange office, dry cleaners, nail bar, hairdresser…Besides shopping, the Centar also offers entertainment which can be experimented in the multiplex cinema or Casino on the fifth floor, or in the numerous café bars, restaurant, or in children's play areas located on the second floor. For our visitors we are preparing numerous events; in the winter period, we organize jazz nights on the fifth floor, and with the special program in November we will celebrate the Centar's fifth anniversary as well as the Advent and St Nicholas Day. Even lovers of a healthy lifestyle will soon be satisfied as a fitness/health and beauty Centar is expected to open which will complete the Tower Centar’s offer. Here you will find all the necessary comforts close to the city Centar. In the Rijeka Tower Centar you have eight floors of underground and above ground garages at your disposal, with around 2500 free parking lots. All you need to do is relax and launch yourselves into a visit of all the stores on offer.
5/24/11 12:49:38 AM
72
Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events Lipanj / June 2011 13. - 15.06. Dani sv. Vida / Dani Grada Rijeke Dani sv. Vida ili Dani Grada Rijeke slave se od 13. do 15. lipnja. U slavu zaštitnika organiziraju se procesije, brojni koncerti, izložbe, predstave i sportske manifestacije. U svakom kutku grada pronaći ćete zabavu za sebe. 13. - 15.06. St Vitus Days / City of Rijeka Days St Vitus Days or the City of Rijeka Days are celebrated from 13 to 15 June. Processions, numerous concerts, exhibitions, performances and sporting events are organized to the glory of the patron saint. In the every corner of the town, you will find something to interest you.
09. - 11.06. Fiumanka Regatta Days when the sea in front of Rijeka is whitened with sails when the Fiumanka international sailing regatta takes place from 9 to 11 June. Last year there was a record number of participants reaching 191 crews, representing an even greater challenge this year’s, for the 12th regatta. 11.06. AD Natura Risnjak Mountain Trek 2011. Take part in the trekking race Ad Natura Risnjak Mountain Trek 2011 on 11 June and introduce yourselves to the greener part of the Kvarner and the awesome Risnjak. This 7th edition of the race consists of a competition in two categories, over 25 and 60 kilometre-long paths, all along the Risnjak National Park, and almost traditionally brings together more than 300 competitors.
09. - 11.06. Regata Fiumanka Od 9. do 11. Lipnja, u vrijeme održavanja međunarodne jedriličarske regate Fiumanka, dani su kad se more ispred Rijeke bijeli od jedara. Lanjski, rekordan broj sudionika dostigao je brojku od 191 posade što predstavlja svojevrsni izazov ovogodišnjoj 12. po redu regati. 11.06. AD Natura Risnjak Mountain Trek 2011. Sudjelovanjem na trekking utrci AD Natura Risnjak Montain Trek 2011. koja se održava 11. Lipnja, upoznajte zeleni dio Kvarnera i prelijepi Risnjak. Ovo sedmo izdanje utrke obuhvaća natjecanje u dvije kategorije po stazama duljine 25 i 60 kilometara duž
Rijeka Summer Nights Every year Rijeka Summer Nights offers its public new surprises, from the spectacular opening that is talked about for a long time after, to the rich program of performances and concerts which take place in a number of unusual town locations. This event lasts until 23 July. Summer on Gradina Rijeka Summer starts with the Summer on Gradina event, which takes place in one of the prettiest city backdrops, at Trsat Castle. This cultural and entertaining event abounds with quality concerts, theatre performances and movie projections, making these summer nights even more charming. On 19 June the first Festival of Istra and Kvarner myths and legends begins, whilst eventful program continues until September.
18. - 26.06. MIK - Melodije Istre i Kvarnera Glazbena duša Kvarnera i svih primorskih mjesta je Festival melodija Istre i Kvarnera, popularni MIK, jedini putujući festival u Hrvatskoj. MIK je specifičan i po svom trajanju jer festivalska karavana desetak dana putuje diljem regije, Istre, Kvarnera i otoka. Ove godine festival počinje 18. lipnja u Opatiji, a završava 26. lipnja u Novalji na otoku Pagu. 18. - 26.06. MIK - Festival of Istra and Kvarner’s melodies The music soul of Kvarner and all coastal places is the Festival melodija Istre i Kvarnera (Festival of Istra and Kvarner’s melodies), the popular MIK, which is the only travelling festival in Croatia. The MIK is also specific for its duration as this festival caravan travels for about ten days around the region, Istra, Kvarner and islands. This year’s festival starts in Opatija on 18 June and ends in Novalja, on the island of Pag, on 26 June. .
72-75 Mozaik.indd 72
5/24/11 12:50:29 AM
73
Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events
cijelog Nacionalnog parka Risnjak, a već tradicionalno okuplja više od 300 natjecatelja. Riječke ljetne noći Riječke ljetne noći svake godine publici ponude nova iznenađenja, od spektakularnog otvaranja o kojem se još dugo govori, do bogatog programa predstava i koncerata koje se odvijaju na različitim, za kulturni program, nesvakidašnjim lokacijama grada. Manifestacija traje do 23. srpnja. Ljeto na Gradini Riječko ljeto počinje i manifestacijom Ljeto na Gradini koja se održava u jednom od najljepših gradskih ambijenata, na Trsatskoj gradini. Ova kulturno-zabavna manifestacija obiluje kvalitetnim koncertima, kazališnim predstavama i projekcijama filmova, te ljetne večeri čini još čarobnijima. 19. lipnja na programu je prvi Festival mitova i legendi Istre i Kvarnera, a sadržajan program nastavlja se sve do rujna. 25. - 27.06. Croatian Sidecar Grand Prix 2011. Ljubitelji brzina doći će na svoje od 25. do 27. lipnja kada se na automotodromu Grobnik pokraj Rijeke održava Svjetsko prvenstvo motora s prikolicom Croatian Sidecar Grand Prix 2011. Na Grobniku će se natjecati najbolji svjetski motoristi, što će privući velik broj ljubitelja motosporta iz Hrvatske i inozemstva. Bogat trodnevni program upotpunit će dio bodovnih utrka najjačeg regionalnog Prvenstva Alpe Jadran te Europskog kupa (European Cup). Na ovom značajnom međunarodnom natjecanju za titulu svjetskog prvaka borit će se vozači Velike Britanije, Francuske, Finske, Švicarske, Njemačke i Slovenije.
25. - 27.06. Croatian Sidecar Grand Prix 2011. Admirers of speed will be satisfied from 25 to 27 June when at the Grobnik Autodrome near Rijeka the Sidecar World Championship, Croatian Sidecar Grand Prix 2011 will take place. The best world motorcyclists will compete at Grobnik and this event will attract a great number of motorsport admirers from Croatia and abroad. A rich three-day program will complete part of the scoring races of the most important regional Alpe Jadran Championship as well as of the European Cup. Drivers from Great Britain, France, Finland, Switzerland, Germany and Slovenia will battle it out at this important international competition for the world champion title.
Srpanj / July 2011 15. - 16.07. Hartera A festival of top performers of electronic music has been organised amongst the ruins of the once famous paper factory, for seven years now. Numerous resonant and world known names, impressive stages, crowds of young people....make this festival an event not to be missed on the map of regional events. We warmly recommend this event that will take place in the centre of Rijeka, on 15 and 16 July. 17. - 24.07. European University Handball Championship At the new Zamet sport centre, on the western part of Rijeka, don’t miss the European University Handball Championships which will last from 17 to 24 July. The arrival of more than 25 university teams in the men and women’s competition from all around Europe is expected, that is more than 400 sportsmen and women.
15. - 16.07. Hartera U ostacima nekad slavne tvornice papira već se sedam godina organizira festival vrhunskih izvođača elektronske glazbe. Brojna, zvučna i svjetski poznata imena, dojmljive pozornice, rijeke mladih ljudi...čine ovaj festival nezaobilaznim događajem na karti regionalnih zbivanja. Svakako preporučamo ovaj događaj u centru Rijeke 15. i 16. srpnja. 17. - 24.07. Europsko sveučilišno prvenstvo u rukometu U novom sportskom centru Zamet, na zapadnom dijelu Rijeke, ne propustite Europsko sveučilišno prvenstvo u rukometu koje će trajati od 17. do 24. srpnja. Najavljen je dolazak preko 25 sveučilišnih ekipa u muškoj i ženskoj konkurenciji iz cijele Europe, odnosno preko 400 sportaša i sportašica.
72-75 Mozaik.indd 73
5/24/11 12:50:54 AM
74
Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events
Kolovoz / August 2011 15.08. Vela Gospa Rijeka je i grad hodočasnika pogotovo 15. kolovoza kada se slavi blagdan Velike Gospe i kada Svetište Majke Božje Trsatske očekuje tisuće vjernika. Svake godine, uz vjerski, priprema se i bogat kulturni i zabavni program. Tog dana, obzirom na velik broj hodočasnika, uže središte Trsata zatvara se za promet, a za posjetitelje je osiguran besplatan javni gradski prijevoz.
15.08. Assumption of Mary Rijeka is also a town of pilgrims, particularly on 15 August when it celebrates the Assumption of Mary festival when the Virgin Mary of Trsat Sanctuary awaits thousands of believers. Alongside the religious part, a rich cultural and entertaining program will be organised. On that day, due to the great number of pilgrims, the narrow centre of Trsat will be closed to traffic whilst visitors are provided with free public transport.
Rujan / September 2011 10. - 11.09. Cro Open karate turnir U sportskom centru Zamet od 10. do 11. rujna održava se Cro Open karate turnir. Očekuje se nastup preko 1.000 natjecatelja iz 15 država u svim uzrasnim kategorijama.
10. - 11.09. Cro Open Karate Tournament The Cro Open Karate Tournament will take place from 10 to 11 September, in the Zamet sport centre. Participation of more than 1000 competitors from 15 countries and all age categories is expected.
10. - 11.09. Učka Mountain Trek Pustolovna utrka Učka Mountain trek ove se godine održava deveti puta od 10. do 11. rujna. Sudionici prolaze staze duge 20 ili 50 kilometara uzduž prelijepog Parka prirode Učke s ciljem u Lovranskoj Dragi.
10. - 11.09. Učka Mountain Trek The Adventurous Učka Mountain Trek race will take place for the 9th year running, from 10 to 11 September. Participants will pass the 20 or 50 kilometre-long paths around the beautiful Učka Natural Park finish in Lovranska Draga.
21. - 25.09. Nautica Na riječkoj Putničkoj obali od 21. do 25. rujna razgledajte Nauticu - međunarodni nautički sajam brodova i opreme. 21. - 25.09. Nautica Visit Nautica - the international nautical fair of ships and equipment at Rijeka's Putnička obala (traveller's shore), from 21 to 25 September.
Piše / Written by: Andrea Bralić
72-75 Mozaik.indd 74
Fotografije / Photos: TZ Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board, Dean Miculinić
5/24/11 12:51:09 AM
75
Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events
09. - 18.09. Europsko juniorsko vaterpolo prvenstvo i Euro liga Na kompleksima bazena na Kantridi od 9. do 18. rujna pogledajte utakmice Europskog juniorskog vaterpolo prvenstva i Euro lige. 22. - 25.09. Sajam cvijeća i slastica Na mostu ispred riječkog hotela Kontinental od 22. do 25. rujna održava se sajam cvijeća i slastica kojim se ispraća ljeto. Uz izložbe, održavaju se i edukativne radionice, te prezentacije radova učenika strukovnih škola.
09. - 18.09. European Junior Water-polo Championship and Euro league Do not miss the matches of the European Junior Water-polo Championship and Euro league at the Kantrida swimming-pool complex, from 9 to 18 September. 22. - 25.09. Fair of flowers and confection The summer flower and confectionary fair will take place on the bridge in front of Rijeka’s hotel Kontinental, from 22 to 25 September. Besides exhibitions, there will also be educational workshops and a presentation of the works of vocational school students.
Listopad / October 2011 16.10. Međunarodni dan astronomije U riječkom Atronomskom centru i zvjezdarnici 16. listopada obilježava se Međunarodni dan astronomije uz edukativan program prilagođen svim uzrastima.
16.10. International Day of Astronomy International Day of Astronomy will be celebrated at Rijeka’s Astronomic centre on 16 October, with an educational program that is suited to all ages.
Studeni / Prosinac 2011
3. - 12.11. 16. međunarodna revija lutkarskih kazališta Za male i one koji se tako osjećaju od 3. do 12. studenoga u Gradskom lutkarskom kazalištu održava se 16. međunarodna revija lutkarskih kazališta s pregrštom zanimljivih predstava. 3. - 12.11. 16th International Review of Puppy Theatres For younger family members and those who feel like that, the 16th International Review of Puppet Theatres will take place at the City Puppet Theatre from 3 to 12 November with a handful of interesting performances. 26.11. Tradicionalni susret klapa - "Bašćanski glasi" Ljubitelji klapske pjesme jedva čekaju kraj studenog, točnije 26. studenoga kada se i Hrvatskom kulturnom domu na Sušaku održavaju „Bašćanski glasi“, tradicionalni susret klapa.
72-75 Mozaik.indd 75
26.11. Traditional meeting of klapas - "Bašćanski glasi" Admirers of klapa singing can’t wait for the end of November, precisely 26 November, when there will be a traditional meeting of klapas at the Croatian Cultural Centre on Sušak the "Bašćanski glasi”.
5/24/11 12:51:38 AM
76
ZOOM Petar Kürschner Jr. Petar Kürschner Jr., nagrađivani samostalni fotograf iz Hrvatske, diplomirao na minhenskom SAE Institutu u Njemačkoj. Radio je na više od 600 projekata kao ton-majstor, direktor i organizator u svim mogućim, nemogućim i ekstremnim uvjetima na terenu, u kazalištu, na koncertima, televiziji, CD produkciji, itd. Ekstremni radni uvjeti koje je iskusio, umnogome su mu pomogli u suočavanju s ekstremnim situacijama u fotografiji, u kojoj je vrlo brzo pronašao svoje mjesto među profesionalcima. Neki od njegovih brojnih klijenata su: Cosmopolitan, Der Spiegel, Le Monde, Maybelline Jade, Garnier, Gloss, Gala Style, Travel, international press agencies Est/Ost Photo & Action Press, međunarodna marketinška agencija Fortes'Nickel, itd. Njegove se fotografije, kao umjetnička djeka, ekskluzivno prodaju putem Amazon.com/Art.com. U 2010. godini je bio jedan od finalist za dodjelu nagrade za najviša postignuća u profesionalnoj fotografiji u Hrvatskoj, "CROATIAN PRESS PHOTO".
76-78 ZOOM.indd 76
Petar Kürschner Jr., award winning freelance photographer, based in Croatia, graduated in Munich SAE Institute in Germany. He worked in more than 600 projects as tonmeister, director & organiser in all possible, impossible and extreme circumstances in field, theatre, concerts, television, cd production, etc. The extreme working circumstances he went through helped him very much in dealing with extreme situations in photography where he found very fast his place among professionals. His clients are, among many others: Cosmopolitan, Der Spiegel, Le Monde, Maybelline Jade, Garnier, Gloss, Gala Style, Travel, international press agencies Est/Ost Photo & Action Press, international marketing agency Fortes'Nickel, etc. As artwork, his photos are exclusively sold by Amazon.com/Art.com. In 2010 he was one of the finalist in the highest award for professional photographers in Croatia, "CROATIAN PRESS PHOTO".
5/24/11 12:52:38 AM
77
76-78 ZOOM.indd 77
5/24/11 12:53:25 AM
78
76-78 ZOOM.indd 78
5/24/11 12:54:18 AM
Slasni kutak / Tasty corner
Reci mi što jedeš, i reći ću ti tko si... Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are…
79
Piše / Written by: Sanja Krmpotić Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić
Miljenica ribara
i kraljica mora
Fishermen’s favourite and queen of the sea Promišljanje o prehrani, prije svega u smislu zdravlja, no dakako i financija, neophodno je u suvremenom stilu života. Pretilost i kardiovaskularne bolesti poprimaju razmjere epidemije - prema znanstvenim istraživanjima, Hrvatska također slijedi nepovoljna svjetska kretanja.
79-81 srdelica.indd 79
It is necessary to think about Diet, in particular with regard to health, but also to one’s financial situation in the modern lifestyle. According to scientific research, obesity and cardiovascular diseases are becoming epidemic; Croatia also follows unfavourable world trends.
5/24/11 12:55:04 AM
80
Mediterranean Diet So, instead of accepting these new trends, it would be enough to turn the clock back a bit. We are privileged as we live in a climate with all the natural and traditional prerequisites for a healthy and tasty Mediterranean Diet, which have a gentle effect, according to numerous studies, as well as returning to the eating habits of our ancestors, as is advised throughout the world and is included in the menus of eminent restaurants. Golden Mediterranean standards are an abundance of fresh fruit, vegetables, cereals and nuts, with moderate use of meat and milk products, olive oil, wine in moderate quantities and regular use of fish, especially blue fish.
Healthy and cheap Ingredients do not have to be expensive in order to be healthy. Because of the misconception that price guarantees quality, many people renounce healthy and cheap meals. These prejudices should be abandoned especially when we are talking about fish, as precisely this modest blue fish is a true nutritive wealth. In this group, we can find the often underestimated sardine, which is rich in omega-3 unsaturated fats that cannot be produced by the human organism itself. The Sardine (lat. Sardina pilchardus) belongs to the group of tiny sea fish from the Clupeidae family and in Croatia is known under a variety of names (sardina, srđela, šardela, štijavica or žir). The largest fishing spots are located in the western
Sardine is IN Srdela je IN Legenda kaže da je prvu srdelu pojeo grčki bog Dioniz, kada je ispio svoj prvi pehar vina, te joj onako omamljen ponudio vječni život ako more zamijeni vinom u njegovu peharu, no srdela ga je odbila rekavši: more je moj dom, a ja pripadam ribarima i primorskom puku na svim obalama, otocima i lukama, te mi je dužnost tažiti glad riba i ljudi! I tako bi. Srdela je ostala miljenica ribara, koji je nazivaju i kraljicom mora, othranila je mnoge generacije, o njoj sve više govori svijet, no kod nas je rijetko zastupljena u domaćinstvima i jelovnicima restorana. U Hrvatskoj se ukupno pojede 8 kg ribe po stanovniku godišnje, daleko ispod ostalih europskih zemalja (Italija 25 kg, Španjolska 40 kg i Norveška 50 kg). Zbog vrijednosti učenja i očuvanja tradicije mediteranske prehrane u nas, Turistička zajednica grada Rijeke je početkom svibnja organizirala četverodnevnu gastronomsku manifestaciju Srdela je IN, te potaknula pripremu jela sa srdelama na poznate, zaboravljene, ali i nove načine u nizu ugostiteljskih objekata: restoran hotela Continental, restoran hotela Best Western Jadran, restoran Gric & Guc, konoba Feral, mexican cantina Bodega, te konoba Blato 1902, koja će neka od tih jela uvrstiti u stalnu ponudu, naravno u dane izlova srdele. Ujedno se na stručnim predavanjima moglo saznati zašto je plava riba nezaobilazna namirnica u zdravoj prehrani, kako prepoznati kvalitetno maslinovo ulje, održana je i radionica soljenja srdela, te uvod u osnove znanja o vinu, što je dio današnje opće kulture.
79-81 srdelica.indd 80
According to legend, the first sardine was eaten by the Greek God Dyonisus when he drank his first cup of wine and in that torpid state offered eternal life to the sardine if it changed the sea into the wine in his cup. The sardine refused by saying: the sea is my home and I belong to the fishermen and to the people of the coast on all shores, islands and ports and my duty is to satisfy the fish and the people! And so it was. The sardine has remained a goddess to fishermen and they call it the queen of the sea too. It has fed numerous generations. Every day, the world talks about it more and more, however in our area, it is rarely present in our homes or on our restaurant menus. A total of 8 kg of fish per inhabitant is eaten in Croatia annually. Far below the other European countries (Italy 25 kg, Spain 40 kg and Norway 50 kg). Because of the knowledge and preservation of the traditions of the Mediterranean Diet in these areas, at the beginning of , the Rijeka Tourist Board has organized a four-day gastronomic event called Sardine is IN and in that way has stimulated the preparation of meals with sardines in familiar, forgotten and new ways in a series of catering facilities: the hotel Continental restaurant, the hotel Best Western Jadran restaurant, Gric & Guc restaurant, Feral tavern, Bodega Mexican cantina, as well as the Blato 1902 tavern which will include some of these meals in its regular offer, of course, in the period when sardines are caught. During professional lectures you can also discover why the blue fish is an obligatory ingredient in a healthy Diet and learn how to recognize high quality olive oil. There is a workshop regarding sardine salting as well as an introduction to the main facts about wine which today is part of general culture.
5/24/11 12:55:19 AM
81
Mediteranska prehrana Stoga, umjesto prihvaćanja novih trendova, dovoljno se vratiti malo unatrag. Povlašteni smo jer živimo u podneblju sa svim prirodnim i tradicijskim preduvjetima za zdravu i ukusnu mediteransku prehranu, čije blagotvorno djelovanje dokazuju brojne studije, a način prehrane naših starih preporučuje se diljem svijeta i uvrštava u jelovnike renomiranih restorana. Zlatni standardi Mediterana su obilje svježeg voća, povrća, žitarica i orašastih plodova, umjerena uporaba mesa i mliječnih proizvoda, maslinovo ulje, vino u umjerenim količinama, te redovita uporaba ribe posebice plave.
Zdrava i jeftina Namirnice ne moraju biti skupe, da bi bile zdrave. Zbog zablude da je cijena jamstvo kvalitete, mnogi se odriču zdravog i jeftinog obroka. Takve predrasude treba odbaciti posebice kad je riječ o ribi, jer je upravo skromna plava riba pravo nutritivno bogatstvo. Tu spada i često podcijenjena srdela bogata omega-3 nezasićenim masnim kiselinama koje ljudski organizam ne može sam stvoriti. Srdela (lat. Sardina pilchardus) spada u skupinu sitne plave morske ribe iz obitelji haringi, a u Hrvatskoj je još poznata i kao sardina, srđela, šardela, štijavica ili žir. Najveća lovišta nalaze se u zapadnom Sredozemlju i Jadranu, gdje je glavna ribolovna kultura. Može se loviti tijekom cijele godine, noću kada nema mjeseca, no navodno najkvalitetnije su svibanjske i lipanjske, posebice za soljenje. U tradicionalnim jelovnicima, srdela je bila neizostavna, iako uvijek na glasu kao sirotinjska hrana, cijenili su je i bogati sladokusci, ali onu slanu, koja se dodavala jelima umjesto soli. Običaj soljenja ribe, doživio je uspon krajem srednjeg vijeka, kada su mediteranski gradovi izvozili slanu ribu širom tada otkrivenog svijeta, te nije bilo broda koji u pustolovinu potrage za novim kontinentima i njihovim bogatstvima, nije nosio barem bačvu usoljene ribe. Još od doba antike, jadranska sitna plava riba bila je posebno cijenjena, kao i umijeće soljenja naših starosjedilaca, te su njihove slane delicije postizale najvišu cijenu. Osim soljenja, masnu ribu je preporučljivo kuhati ili peći na žaru, jer se prženjem povećava njena kaloričnost. Pri kuhanju u vodi dobro je dodati limun ili vinski ocat radi lakše probavljivosti, te sol kojom se zadržavaju vitamini i minerali u ribi, što je dobro znati, ukoliko nemamo namjeru istu vodu iskoristiti za riblju juhu.
POLPETE OD SRDELA Za 4 osobe: • 1 kg srdela • 1 jaje • krušne mrvice prema potrebi • peršin, češnjak,papar, sol, maslinovo ulje Očistiti ribu od glava i utrobe. Zakuhati 1,5 l vode, u proključalu vodu staviti ribu i kratko prokuhati, ne duže od 10 minuta. Kad se riba ohladi, odvojiti meso od kosti. Zatim meso pomiješati sa navedenim sastojcima. Kad je začinjeno po ukusu, oblikovati smjesu u polpetice, koje je potrebno uvaljati u brašno. Frigati u dubokom ulju dok ne zažute. Poslužiti sa svježom sezonskom salatom.
SARDINE BALLS For 4 persons: • 1 kg of sardines • 1 egg • breadcrumbs according to necessity • parsley, garlic, pepper, salt, olive oil Clean the fish and remove the head and the interiors. Boil 1,5 l of water; in boiled water put the fish and boil shortly, not longer than 10 minutes. When the fish cools off, separate the meat from the bones. Then mix the meat with listed ingredients. When spiced according to tastes, shape in the form of balls which need to be rolled in flavour. Fry in oil until they obtain the yellowish colour. Serve with fresh seasonal salad. Konoba BLATO 1902
Mediterranean and in the Adriatic where it is the main form of fish culture. It can be caught throughout the year, at night when there is no moon. Fish caught in May and June is supposedly of the highest quality, especially when undergoing the salting process. In traditional menus, the sardine is obligatory. Although always considered a food for the poor, it was appreciated by rich gourmands, although the salted variety was used which was often added to dishes instead of salt. The custom of fish salting experienced a boom at the end of the Middle Ages, when Mediterranean cities exported salted fish to many parts of the newly discovered world. There was no boat which didn't, in the adventure of discovering new continents and their treasures, carry at least one barrel of salted fish. Already since ancient times tiny Adriatic fish were especially appreciated as was the skill of salting done by our native people, and their salty delicacies were the most expensive products. Besides salting, we suggest these fatty fish be boiled or grilled, as the quantity of calories increases by frying. Whilst cooking in water, it is recommended to add lemon or vinegar for easier digestion as well as salt which holds the vitamins and minerals in the fish. This is good advice if we do not plan to use the same water to prepare fish soup
79-81 srdelica.indd 81
5/24/11 12:55:32 AM
82
Press clipping - Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us Inflight
Inflight
…Rijeka je oduvijek bila, a i danas jest, raskršće novih ideja i senzibiliteta, poveznica mora i kopna, prošlosti i budućnosti....
…Rijeka has always been, and is still today, a crossroads of new ideas and sensibility, a connection between the sea and land, as well as the past and future.…
...Rijeku cijene kao grad industrijske arhitekture, koja danas dobiva nove duhovne sadržaje. Nekadašnji industrijski pogoni na području Mlake i oko Industrijske ulice oživljuju kao povremene pozornice kazališnih predstava i koncerata. Tako Rijeka, kao uvijek do sada, ide dalje. Sa Zagrebom i slovenskom granicom povezuju je nove, najsuvremenije cestovne prometnice, promet u gradu rasterećen je gradnjom suvremenih zaobilaznica, na Pećinama je otvoren Tower Centar Rijeka, jedan od najvećih trgovačkih centara u ovom dijelu Europe, obnovljeni su najpoznatiji hoteli, a nad Mrtvim kanalom završen Most hrvatskih branitelja, nagrađivan uglednim međunarodnim nagradama za arhitekturu i inovativnu tehnologiju. Prije dvije godine otvoren je Kompleks bazena na Kantridi - prvi veliki sportski objekt u Rijeci nakon više od 30 godina, a u njemu je održano Europsko prvenstvo u plivanju u kratkim bazenima. Luka se sprema za suvremenu ulogu Vrata Srednje Europe, pripremajući novo lučko pristanište, a iza zgrada Tržnice, uz obalu, trebaju niknuti parkovi, te novi zabavni i kulturni sadržaji. ■ OBALA COAST
72
CROATIA AIRLINES
... Rijeka is appreciated as a city of industrial architecture, which today has new spiritual contents. The one-time industrial facilities in the area of Mlaka and around Industrial Street have been revived and occasionally serve as modern stages for theatre performances and concerts. Thus, as always before and still today, Rijeka is moving forward. The city is now connected with Zagreb and the Slovenian borders with the newest and most modern highways, traffic in the city centre has been reduced owing to the building of the new modern bypass, the Tower Centar Rijeka, one of the biggest shopping centres in this part of Europe, has been opened in Pećine, the most famous hotels have been refurbished, and over the Dead Canal the Veterans Bridge has been completed, a prize winner of prestigious international awards for architecture and innovative technology. Two years ago the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex was opened - the first big sports centre in Rijeka in the last 30 years. The European Short Course Swimming Championships were held here. The harbour is being prepared for its modern role as the Door to Central Europe, as new harbour docks are being built. Behind the marketplace building, along the coast, parks will soon appear, as well as new entertainment and cultural contents.
Iće & Piće
Iće & Piće
S više od 140.000 stanovnika, Rijeka je danas treći po veličini grad u Hrvatskoj. Desetljećima je bila sinonom za lučki, industrijski i tranzitni grad, no sada ju cijene I kao grad iznimne industrijske arhitekture. Mnogobrojnim napuštenim postrojenjima pokušavaju se udahnuti novi sadržaji, te ih pretvoriti u nositelje kulturnog identiteta i turističkog razvoja, stoga se povremeno pretvaraju u pozornice kazališnih predstava i koncerata.
Today, Rijeka is the third most important city in Croatia for its dimensions, having more than 140,000 inhabitants. For decades it was synonymous for port, an industrial and transit town whilst today it is appreciated as a town of exceptional industrial architecture. It has tried to instil numerous abandoned plants with new facilities and transform them into bearers of cultural identity and touristic development. As a result, from time to time, they are transformed into stages for theatre performances and concerts.
Prenamjena prostora koji su nekada isključivo korišteni u industrijske svrhe i njihovo stavljanje u funkciju turizma, najveći je potencijal koji Rijeka danas ima, smatra Petar Škarpa, direktor Turističke zajednice Grada Rijeke i dodaje, uz to se radi na unapređivanju ponude muzeja i galerija, koje imaju više eksponata u svojim arhivima nego izloženih. Bitno je osmišljavati događaje koji će biti razlogom dolaska turista tijekom cijele godine. Nove ideje će zasigurno vitalizirati i ponovno promijeniti Rijeku, grad rocka, novog vala i punk pokreta, grada koji se stalno preispituje u potrazi za vlastitim identitetom.
82 PC.indd 82
“Conversion of spaces that once were used exclusively for industrial purposes and their transformation for a tourism function is the greatest potential Rijeka has today”, Petar Škarpa, Rijeka Tourist Board director considers and adds, “besides this we are constantly improving the museums and galleries offer, which have more exhibits in their archives than in exposition. It is important to conceive events that will be a principal reason for tourists to visit Rijeka throughout the year. New ideas will surely make Rijeka more vital and will change it into a city for rock, new wave and for the punk movement, again. A city that constantly re-examines itself searching for its own identity.
5/24/11 12:56:56 AM
Being in the very heart of Rijeka, Grand Hotel Bonavia is the life line of business travellers. Our state of the art Business centre Grand Hotel Bonavia - in business since 1876.
Being in the very heart of Rijeka, Grand Hotel Bonavia is the life line of business travellers. Our state of the art Business centre Grand Hotel Bonavia - in business since 1876. www.alh.hr 82 PC.indd 83
5/24/11 12:57:41 AM
01.indd 84
5/23/11 11:33:16 PM