Welcome to Rijeka 05-2012 by Turistička zajednica grada Rijeke / Rijeka Tourist Board

WELCOME TO

RIJEKA Broj

Issue 5

PROSINAC

DECEMBER 2011

Godina

Year 2

Tema broja / This edition theme

Što li sve čarobna Rijeka skriva ispod svojeg zimskog ogrtača? What does magical Rijeka hide under its winter coat? Izlasci / Going out

Zabavi je Rijeka dom Rijeka is a place for fun

Dalibor Matanić Sveučilište / University

Grad krojen po mjeri studenata A City tailored to students

Nije za prodaju / Not for sale

Intervju / Interview

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Uvodnik / Editorial Tema broja / This edition theme Svi gradovi imaju četiri godišnja doba,a Rijeka ih ima pet All towns have four seasons, only Rijeka has five

Intervju / Interview Dalibor Matanić

Novi grad / New City Zabavi je Rijeka dom Rijeka is a place for fun

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Klub Palach, alternativno srce grada Palach Club, an alternative heart of the city

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Grad krojen po mjeri studenata A City tailored to students

IMPRESSUM

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Kuća u kojoj lutke (ne) spavaju The House where puppets do (not) sleep

NAKLADNIK / PUBLISHER

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Biennale Kvadrilaterale Quadrilateral Biennale

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Svjetlo staklene glagoljice The light of the glass glagolitic alphabet

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Ljudi i mostovi People and bridges

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Skijanje s mirisom mora Skiing with the aroma of the sea

Velid Đekić, Ljiljana Mamić Pandža, Igor Rivetti, Larry Ambrozich, Lidija Šušak, Slavica Mrkić Modrić, Andrea Bralić Marić, Mašenka Vukadinović, Sanja Krmpotić, Luka Benčić, Kim Cuculić

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Mjesto na koje se vraćaju putnici A place where passengers come back

FOTOGRAFIJE / PHOTOGRAPHS

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Hand Press d.o.o. J.Trdine 2, 51 000 Rijeka e-mail: info@handpress.hr

UREDNIČKI KOLEGIJ / EDITORIAL BOARD

Petar Škarpa, Ermina Duraj, Lea Stoiljković Medved, Ljiljana Mamić Pandža, Velid Đekić, Dean Miculinić, Igor Rivetti, Sandra Ivanišević

GRAFIČKO OBLIKOVANJE / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marijan Baćac

NOVINARI / JOURNALISTS

Dean Miculinić

MARKETING

Hand Press d.o.o. e-mail: sandra@handpress.hr

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Tako je nekada bilo / Once upon a time Starija iznutra nego izvana Older interior than exterior

Sat vremena od Rijeke / Just an hour from Rijeka

PRIJEVODI / TRANSLATION

Zelena i bijela idila A green and white idyl

TISAK / PRINTED BY

Zoom

Prolingua-Ri d.o.o. WEB2PRINT Zagreb

DISTRIBUCIJA / DISTRIBUTION HP d.d.

66. 70.

NAKLADA / EDITION 4000 kom

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ISSN 1847-5019

Riječki karneval Rijeka Carnival

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - Events Slasni kutak / Tasty corner Sveta riba za blagdan i svagdan Holy fish for holidays and for everyday

Izlazi dva puta godišnje Published twice a year

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Hrana koja nas čini sretnima Food that makes us happy

Časopis je realiziran u suradnji s Turističkom zajednicom grada Rijeke This magazine was launched in collaboration with the Rijeka Tourist Board

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Med koji opaja Honey that makes you tipsy

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Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us

Uvodnik Zima u Rijeci nije dosadna, duga i hladna. Riječani znaju kako zimske dane učiniti toplima i šarenima. Sve počinje Svetim Nikolom, kada centar grada zagriju stotine šarenih lampica, najavljujući brojne zimske radosti: doček sv. Nikole, koji donosi šibe i slatkiše, zatim Božić, sa Korzom punim mirisa toplog kuhanog vina, veselim božićnim vlakićem, štandovima punim božićnih poklona, muzikom koja ispunjava zimski zrak.... Stara godina ispraća se također s Korza, kada riječani i njihovi sve brojniji gosti dolaze uz muziku, ples i veliko slavlje dočekati Novo ljeto. Sv. Anton, kod lokalnog stanovništva poznat kao Antonja, datum je koji se nestrpljivo iščekuje jer to je dan kada počinju maškare. Tada centrom grada zavladaju ponovo boje, okusi i mirisi karnevala, kada niti jedan dan nije kao prethodni.

Sve je više studenata koji odabiru Rijeku kao mjesto za školovanje. Sva ta mladost čini ovaj grad i mjestom za zabavu, koja ne jenjava ni zimi. U ovom vam broju predstavljamo Rijeku kao grad zabave, Riječkog karnevala, dočeka Nove godine, noćnih provoda u brojnim kafe barovima i noćnim klubovima. Nije sve samo zabava - vodimo vas na izložbu glagoljice izvedene u staklu, u Gradsko kazalište lutaka Rijeka i u Vilu Ružić, mjesto koje odiše bogatom poviješću. Razgovarali smo sa sjajnim mladim redateljem Daliborom Matanićem, koji nam je rekao zašto voli Rijeku. Pričamo i o bakalaru, ribi koja se tradicijski jede na Badnjak, a povest ćemo vas i na snimanje kulinarske emisije Guštiona. Nadamo se da smo i ovaj, peti put uspjeli u namjeri da vam prikažemo Rijeku našim očima. I srcem. Uredništvo

Editorial

Winter in Rijeka is not neither annoying nor long and cold. Rijeka citizens know how to make winter days warm and colourful. Everything starts with St Nicholas Feast whilst the town centre becomes warmed by a hundred of colourful bulbs, announcing numerous winter activities: welcoming St Nicholas who brings whips and sweets, then Christmas when Korzo becomes full of warm boiled wine fragrances, cheerful Christmas train, benches full of Christmas presents, music that fulfils the winter air.... The New Year’s Eve is also celebrated at Korzo, when Rijeka citizens and their numerous guests come to Rijeka to celebrate the New Year with music, dance and a big party.

St Anthony feast that local people call Antonja, is a date that is impatiently expecting as this is the first day of masquerade. It is the time when colours, tastes and fragrances of Carnival reign again in the town centre, time when no day is like the previous one.

There are also even more students choosing Rijeka as their place for education. All that youth make this town also a place for entertainment that does not slackens even during the winter. In this issue we introduce you Rijeka as a entertainment day, Rijeka Carnival, New Year's Eve celebration, night parties in numerous café bars and night bars. It is not only about the entertainment - we are taking you to the exhibition of Glagolitic alphabet made in glass, in the Rijeka Puppy Theatre and Villa Ružić, the place which will respire of rich history. We interviewed a great young producer Dalibor Matanić who told us why he loves Rijeka. Will also tell you something about the cod-fish that is traditionally eaten on Christmas and bring you to recording of the culinary broadcast Guštiona. We hope that have also this, the fifth time, managed to show you Rijeka as we see it with our eyes. And heart. Editorial board

Tema broja / This edition theme

Svi gradovi imaju četiri godišnja doba, a Rijeka ih ima pet All towns have four seasons, only Rijeka has five

Piše / Written by: Slavica Mrkić Modrić Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić

Što li sve čarobna Rijeka

skriva ispod svojeg What does magical Rijeka

zimskog ogrtača?

hide under its winter coat?

Budi što želiš, dođi ne samo na Riječki karneval, već i u Rijeku zimi. Istina je da Rijeka vrlo rijetko poseže za svojim bijelim ogrtačem, ali joj je zato onaj šareni, iskričavi, topli, onaj koji miriše na autohtonost i posebnost uvijek pri ruci. Dopustite Rijeci da vas njime zaogrne i povede u neki bolji i veseliji svijet. Rijeka, za razliku od ostatka svijeta, živi pet godišnjih doba. Oduvijek je specifičan grad kojem stoljetna tradicija nalaže karnevalsko ruho. Rijeci peto godišnje doba dođe kao after party, kao urnebesna završnica svega što nudi svojim građanima, ali i svima koji ju tijekom tih mjeseci pohode. U taj urnebesni i višetjedni opuštajući život pod maskama Riječani i njihovi gosti kreću polako. S mjerom. Na blagdan Svetoga Nikole, u Rijeci zasvijetli tisuće lampica i lampiona, nagovješćujući svima dobar provod tijekom narednih mjeseci. Rijeka ugosti sv. Nikolu i njegovu pratnju, razaspe šibe po svojim ulicama i uličicama, ali više kao šalu negoli kaznu, a onda vlakićem Djeda Božićnjaka organizira i razgled svoje glavne šetnice – Korza.

U vlakiću Djeda Božićnjaka Rijeka oduvijek nudi tisuće mogućnosti. Možete ju posjetiti u društvu ili sami, a posjetite li ju u božićno vrijeme, ne propustite vožnju vlakićem duž kucavice grada – Korzom. Tim vlakićem upravlja Djed Božićnjak. On mu određuje i vozni red i stanice. U njemu se najradije voze oni čije nožice baš i nisu vične hodanju, ali i oni čije su se već nahodale. To je pravi obiteljski

Be what you want to be, come not only to the Rijeka Carnival, but to Rijeka in the winter period too. It is true that Rijeka very rarely uses its white coat, but the other one, the colourful one, sparkling and warm, the one that spreads aromas of typical goods and specialties is always within reach. Let Rijeka envelop you in it and take you to a better, more cheerful world. Compared to the rest of the world, Rijeka lives through five seasons. It has always been a particular city whose centuriesold tradition requires the wearing of a carnival costume. The fifth season in Rijeka is experienced as an after party, as a crazy final for everything that the town offers to its citizens as well as for all those visiting it during those months. Rijeka slowly introduces this crazy, relaxing life under a mask to its citizens and guests. With certain measure. On the St. Nicholas holiday in Rijeka, thousands of lamps and lanterns begin shining announcing to all the good fun that will take place in the subsequent months. Rijeka hosts St. Nicholas and his company; it scatters switches through its streets and alleys but more as a joke than a punishment, and then organizes sightseeing of its main promenade – the Korzo in Santa Claus’ train.

Santa Claus’ train Rijeka has always offered thousands of possibilities. You can visit it on your own or in a group, and if you visit it at Christmas time, do not miss the train ride through the city's central promenade – the Korzo. This train is conducted by Santa Claus

prijevoz jer nikakva rijetkost nije da u istom kupeu sjede i četiri generacije jedne obitelji. S obzirom da je zanimanje za ovakav način razgleda predbožićne i božićne Rijeke izuzetno veliko, nerijetko je potrebno i izvršiti rezervacije mjesta u vlakiću. Iako Rijeka rijetko uživa u snijegu, Riječani i njihovi gosti tijekom zimskih mjeseci mogu uživati u klizalištu smještenom niti pet metara od mora. Jedinstven je to doživljaj, klizati na samoj obali. Jednostavno, treba probati!

Božićno-novogodišnji sajam Rijeka voli gužvu, šarenilo, glazbu i blagdanski ugođaj pa Korzo i trgove pretvori u veliki božićno-novogodišnji sajam. Deseci drvenih štandova okićenih božićnim lampicama u tili čas srce grada pretvaraju u pravu božićnu vrevu na kojoj bi joj zavidjele mnoge svjetske metropole. Ah, taj mediteranski temperament! A tek Božić u Rijeci! Za njega se Rijeka dugo priprema. Uređuju se izlozi trgovina, ugostiteljski objekti obogaćuju svoju ponudu, postavljaju se pozornice na kojima nastupaju razni pjevači, glumci i ostali umjetnici. A kad dođe „tiha noć“, crkvena zvona zazvone najljepšom melodijom. Rijeka pruži ruku svima koji ju požele prihvatiti. Organizira se i tradicionalni božićni koncert i to u gradskoj prvostolnici. Katedrala sv. Vida je obično premala za sve koji žele biti dijelom glazbenog zbivanja Božić je judi. Oni koji ne stanu unutra, Božić je judi zapjevaju vani, pretvarajući tako stari dio grada u najraspjevaniji gradski kvart. Samo nekoliko dana nakon toga na desetke tisuća građana tradicionalno dočekuje Novu godinu na otvorenom. Priređuje se

himself. He is the one who determines its schedule and decides where to stop. In it are mainly children which still haven't started to walk as well as those who have already walked a lot. It really is a mean of family transport because it is not unusual for four generations of the same family to be sitting together. As the interest for this kind of sightseeing of pre-Christmas and Christmas Rijeka is extremely high, it is often necessary to book a seat on the train. Although Rijeka rarely enjoys snow, its citizens and guests can have fun in the skating rink located less then five metres from the sea throughout the winter months. Ice-skating on the shore is a rather unique experience and should simply be experienced!

The Christmas and New Year’s Market Rijeka likes a crowd; it likes different colours, music and a holiday atmosphere so much that it transforms the Korzo and its squares into a large Christmas and New Year's market. Before you know it, numerous wooden stalls decorated with Christmas lamps transform the heart of the city into a real Christmas card atmosphere of which numerous world capitals would be jealous. Ah, that Mediterranean temperament! And then Christmas in Rijeka! Rijeka prepares itself for that holiday well in advance. Its shop-windows are decorated, catering facilities enrich their offer, stages are set up on which various singers, actors and other artists perform. And when the "silent night comes”, church bells play the most beautiful melody. Rijeka offers its hand to all those willing to accept it. Rijeka organizes a traditional Christmas concert in the city

organizator svih gradskih karnevalskih zbivanja osmisli toliko sadržajan i raznovrsan program da san ne dolazi u obzir. Pod maskom se pleše, pjeva, izlaže u galerijama i na ulicama, nadmeće na sportskim terenima, djeluje humanitarno, zabavlja. To je vrijeme kad se život u Rijeci živi po sasvim drukčijim pravilima. Dokaz tomu su brojne svjetske nagrade i priznanja što ih je dobila zahvaljujući svom karnevalskom ogrtaču i svega onog što pod njim skriva. Odaziv i broj sudionika-karnevalista dviju povorki, dječje u kojoj Korzom kroče maškarice, te velike karnevalske povorke u kojoj preko deset tisuća maškara mnogobrojnim gledateljima, uživo i putem Interneta, pokazuje što Rijeka ima. Budi što želiš, dođi na Riječki karneval. Bilo bi šteta ne vidjeti ga i ne dopustiti čarobnoj Rijeci da Vas s njime zaogrne i odvede u neki bolji, veseliji svijet

City break paketi

zabava za pamćenje s uvijek zanimljivim izvođačima, pa tako svi s pjesmom ulaze u novu godinu. Te noći grad postaje klub na otvorenom, svi lokali, baš kao i štandovi rade bez prestanka. Iz svakog kantuna i kantunića dopire glazba, a poljupci i dobre želje za godinu koja dolazi pršte jače od velebnog vatrometa što ga Rijeka daruje Riječanima za dobar početak godine.

cathedral as well. The St. Vitus Cathedral is usually too small for all those wanting to participate in the musical event known as Božić je judi (People, it’s Christmas). Those who cannot find a place inside, sing the Božić je judi song from the outside, and in that way turn the old part of the city into the most rhapsodic city area.

Tko pomisli da je sad gotovo, prevario se. Uvertira je to u već spomenuto peto godišnje doba - riječki Karneval. To je vrijeme u kojem Rijeka najviše uživa, vrijeme u kojem nastavlja utabanim stazama svojih predaka, prenoseći mlađim generacijama tradiciju karnevala i karnevalskih običaja.

Just a few days after that thousands of citizens traditionally welcome the New Year in the open air. A party to remember is organised here, always with interesting performers so that everyone enters the New Year in a singing mode. On this night the city becomes an outdoor club, all the bars together with all the stalls work without stopping. Music can be heard from every corner, as well as kisses and best wishes for the coming New Year sparkle that is more powerful than the magnificent fireworks that Rijeka offers to its citizens to ensure a good start of the year to come.

Riječko karnevalsko ruho U tih, ponekad i više od četrdeset dana, Rijeka je grad koji ne spava. Turistička zajednica grada Rijeke, kao glavni

Whoever thinks the story ends here is mistaken. It is the overture to the afore-mentioned fifth season – the Rijeka Carnival. This is the period Rijeka enjoys the most, a time when it continues in the footsteps of its ancestors transmitting the carnival and the carnival customs tradition to younger generations.

Rijeka’s carnival costume At this time, sometimes even for more than forty days, Rijeka becomes a city that never sleeps. The Rijeka Tourist Board as the main organizer of all city carnival events works out a programme full of a variety of contents so that there is no time to sleep and dream. Under the masks people dance, sing, exhibit

Mnogo je puteva koji vode u Rijeku. Onima koji nemaju dovoljno vremena za organizaciju ili nisu tome vični, turističke agencije koje u svoje programe uvrštavaju Rijeku kao „City break“ destinaciju pravi su izbor. City break paketi nude upoznavanje Rijeke i njezine bogate kulturne, povijesne i industrijske baštine ne zanemarujući pritom prirodne ljepote i ljepotu življenja u gradu smještenom na moru i na rijeci. Grad koji osvaja šarmom, tradicijom, arhitekturom i legendama, kako povijesnim tako i urbanim.

in galleries and on the streets, compete on the sports fields, carry out humanitarian activities and entertain. It is a time when life in Rijeka lives according to completely different rules. Proof can be found in the numerous world awards and recognitions the town has gained thanks to its carnival costume and everything that is hidden under it. The response and the number of participants - carnival people in two parades: a children’s parade in which small costumed characters pass along the Korzo, and the large Carnival Parade where over ten thousand masks present all that Rijeka has to offer to the numerous spectators both live and via Internet,. Be what you want to be, come to the Rijeka Carnival. It would really be a pity not to see it and not to let magical Rijeka envelop you in its costume transporting you to a better, more cheerful world.

City break packages

There are many ways leading to Rijeka. For those who don’t have enough time to organize it or who don’t like organising, then the right choice are the tourist agencies who in their programmes select Rijeka as a "City break" destination. City break packages offer an introduction to Rijeka and its rich cultural, historical and industrial heritage whilst at the same time not ignoring the natural beauties and the beauty of living in a city located by the sea and lying on a river. A city that conquers with its historical and urban charm, its tradition, its architecture and its legends.

Intervju / Interview

Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić

Film kao najprodornija umjetnost ostavlja neizbrisiv trag, baš kao i njegov redatelj, nastojeći potaknuti gledatelje na promišljanje i prekid šutnje, dokazujući da je film ogledalo nas samih i svega oko nas. O tome svjedoči i komedija "Blagajnica hoće ići na more" kojom je, sada 36-godišnji redatelj Dalibor Matanić, debitirao 2000-te godine, osvojivši ne samo brojne domaće i inozemne nagrade, već i naklonost publike i veliku gledanost. Uspjesi su se potom redali jedan za drugim, pa je tako i kratki igrani film ratne i postratne tematike Tulum, u konkurenciji sedam filmova iz cijeloga svijeta, uvršten u program Tjedna međunarodne kritike u sklopu 62. filmskog festivala u Cannesu i na naslovnici festivalskih novina. Autor je brojnih dugometražnih, kratkometražnih te dokumentarnih filmova poput Fine mrtve djevojke (2002.), Suša (2002.), Sto minuta Slave (2004.), Volim te (2005.), Kino Lika (2008.), Tulum (2009.), Majka asfalta (2010.), Mezanin (2011.). Matanić će za sebe reći da je čovjek koji šokira, da radi skupe reklame i jeftine filmove, te da je od oca građevinara naslijedio matematičku preciznost, a od majke blagajnice loš humor. Jednostavan, šarmantan, pristupačan, otvorenoga srca i uvijek nasmijan, ovaj je redatelj osvojio publiku cijeloga svijeta. Grčki filozof Sokrat odavna je kazao da „nitko nije slučajno postao dobar - vrlinu treba naučiti“. Kako je to postigao naš sugovornik koji je filmsku i TV režiju diplomirao na zagrebačkoj Akademiji dramske umjetnosti, doznajte u razgovoru koji slijedi.

Dalibor Matanić

- G. Matanić, svojim ste filmovima proteklog desetljeća osvajali publiku, ne samo hrvatskih kino dvorana, već i prestižnih europskih i svjetskih festivala. Svaki umjetnik ima svoju muzu. Koja je Vaša? S obzirom da su u većini mojih filmova glavni akteri žene, mogao bih reći da su mi muze sve divne glumice s kojima sam radio. Njihov talent, upornost, ljudska ljepota je nešto što vas ispunjava i nadahnjuje u svakom novom projektu. S druge strane, muzom bih mogao istaknuti i sve normalne ljude - gledaoce koji u mojim filmovima pronalaze nešto što ih dotakne, podsjeti na slična iskustva, emotivno uzburka i ne ostavi ih ravnodušnima. Oni su svakodnevna inspiracija, mostovi koji spajaju filmski svijet i stvarni život. - Dobitnik ste brojnih nagrada i priznanja u zemlji i inozemstvu, među kojima je za istaknuti i ona u Cannesu. Što Vama osobno predstavlja koračanje po „crvenom tepihu“? Smatram film elitnom umjetnošću zato što spaja sve ostale

Film as the most penetrating art, leaves an indelible imprint and at the same time its director tries to stimulate spectators into thinking and discussing, proving that film is a reflexion of ourselves and everything that surrounds us. This is proved by the comedy, Blagajnica hoće ići na more (Cashier wants to go to the seaside) with which, its 36 years old director, Dalibor Matanić, made his first appearance in 2000, winning not only numerous national and international awards but also the sympathy of the public and high viewing figures. After that his successes came in series, so that a short war and post-war genre film called Tulum (The Party) competing with seven films from around the world, was listed within a programme of International critics’ week held during the 62nd Cannes Film Festival and which appeared on the cover of the Festival’s newspapers. He is the author of numerous feature-length films and short films such as Fine mrtve djevojke (Fine dead girls) (2002), Suša (Drought) (2002), Sto minuta Slave (100 Minutes of Glory) (2004), Volim te (I love you) (2005), Kino Lika (The Lika Cinema) (2008), Tulum (The Party) (2009), Majka asfalta (Mother of Asphalt) (2010), Mezanin (Mezanin) (2011). Matanić describes himself as a man who shocks, who makes expensive advertisements and cheap films and that he inherited his mathematic accuracy from his father, a construction engineer, and his bad humour from his mother, a cashier. Simple, charming, outgoing, openhearted and always smiling, this director has gained the sympathy of the public throughout the world. The Greek philosopher, Socrates, a long time ago said that “no one had casually become good – a skill must be learned”. How this interlocutor, who graduated in film and TV direction at the Zagreb Academy of Dramatic Arts, achieved his art we will discover from the following interview. - Mr Matanić, you have been gaining the sympathy of the public with your films over the last ten years, not only in Croatian cinemas but at prestigious European and world festivals. Each artist has its muse. Who is yours? Taking into account that in most of my films the main characters are women, I could say that my muses are all wonderful actresses with whom I have worked. Their talent, their persistence, human beauty is something that fills and inspires you in each new project. On the other hand, I could declare the muse to be all the normal people – spectators who, in my films, find something that touches them, reminding them of similar experiences, emotionally stirring them and not leaving them indifferent. They are the every day inspiration, the bridges that bond the film world to real life. - You have won numerous awards and recognition both in

Croatia and abroad amongst which of particular mention is the award from Cannes. What does the current walk on the “red carpet” present to you personally? I consider film to be an elite art as it includes all other arts and I support the possibility of focusing the public's attention on the protagonists that create it. However, the red carpet functions only in Cannes; in other places it is sometimes rather ridiculous. At the same time I think the red carpet should not be prostituted. One kind of red carpet is the one on which Fellini, Antonioni, Tarkovski or Bresson walked and something completely different is when characters from reality shows hurry along it. I personally do not have anything against it, but in art of film, the most important thing is what can be seen on canvas. You can decorate the surroundings as much as you like, but if the world seen on canvas has no intensity then nothing can help you. - At the end of April this year you had your first appearance in theatre, in the “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre where you worked on Damir Karakaš’s novel “Sjajno mjesto za nesreću” (Great place for an accident). Then, amongst other things, you said that “Rijeka is just the right place to start working in theatre”. Why is that?

umjetnosti u sebe i podržavam fokusiranje pažnje javnosti na aktere koji ga stvaraju. No, crveni tepih funkcionira gotovo samo u Cannesu, na nekim drugim mjestima zna biti smiješan. Isto tako mislim da ga ne treba prostituirati, jedan je crveni tepih kojim su se prošetali Fellini, Antonioni, Tarkovski ili Bresson, a jedan je kad na njega hrle neki likovi iz reality show-ova. Osobno nisam protiv njega, ali u filmu je ipak najbitnije ono što zaigra na platnu. Možete kititi okoliš koliko god hoćete, ništa ne pomaže ako svijet koji gledate na platnu nema snagu. - Krajem travnja ove godine u riječkom HNK Ivana pl. Zajca imali ste svoj kazališni debi, gdje ste radili po romanu „Sjajno mjesto za nesreću“ Damira Karakaša. Tada ste, između ostalog, izjavili da je „upravo Rijeka genijalno mjesto za početak rada u kazalištu“. Zašto? Mislim da je divna stvar kad se nekome tko po prvi puta kreće u opipavanje novog medija dogodi da uza sebe ima takav glumački ansambl kakav ima riječki HNK baš kao i sve ostale zaposlenike kazališta, od uprave do portira. Svi u riječkom HNK dišu za predstavu i atmosfera je iznenađujuće pozitivna, što je teško održati u većim kolektivima. Nekako sam se osjećao privilegirano radeći predstavu u Rijeci, jer se ta pozitiva širila i izvan zgrada kazališta, u svakodnevnom susretu s ljudima na ulici, svih je zanimalo što se radi, kad će predstava igrati, tko glumi... Za čovjeka koji se prvi put upustio u režiranje predstave to je apsolutno idilična atmosfera.

I think that it is a beautiful thing for someone starting to touch the media for the first time to have the support of that kind of acting ensemble that Rijeka’s Croatian National Theatre has as well as the other theatre employees, from the administration to the doorman. Everyone in the theatre breathes for the show and the atmosphere is incredibly positive which is hard to keep in larger groups. I felt a kind of privilege when making this show in Rijeka, because that positive energy was spread even outside the theatre building, in everyday meetings with people on the streets, everyone were interested in the work, when would the show take place, who were the actors... For a man who was involved in direction of a theatre show for the first time that was an absolutely idyllic atmosphere. - What is the director’s most powerful weapon? Actors. There is nothing like them. Everyone is aware of the fact that films can have a million cadres, a million explosions, a set that will leave you breathless, impressive music, but actors are the essential director’s expression. That is why each time I work with them I ask them to free themselves and abandon themselves completely, not to misuse their freedom but to give as much as possible. And the beautiful thing is that they feel it too and then certain things take place that are both hard to write or predict. The acting profession is maybe one of the hardest in the world and they should be handled with care. - At the beginning of this year you promoted the short film “Mezanin” in Rijeka which was also filmed here. At that time you told me that this city could become a good Centre for coproduction as its location was a very attractive destination for film crews. What does that mean in practice? Close to Rijeka there are mountains, sea, islands, Istria and when you connect all that with the city itself you achieve a very attractive combination which is desirable for foreign film coproduction. Furthermore, there is the airport here as well representing a good traffic connection with the inland and the thing that really cheered us up when we were filming was a very agile culture department amongst

- Što predstavlja redateljevo najjače oruđe? Glumci, bez premca. Svi dobro znaju da film može imati milijun kadrova, milijun eksplozija, scenografiju koja ostavlja bez daha, zadivljujuću muziku, no glumci su esencijalan redateljev izraz. Zato svaki put kad radim s njima, tražim od njih maksimalno oslobađanje i prepuštanje, ne da bi se to zloupotrijebilo već ne bi li oni bili čim bolji. I lijepa je stvar što oni to osjete, pa se onda događaju neke stvari koje je teško napisati i predvidjeti. Glumački je poziv možda jedan od najtežih na svijetu pa stoga glumce treba držati kao kap vode na dlanu. - Početkom ove godine u Rijeci ste promovirali i kratkometražni film „Mezanin“ koji je ovdje i snimljen. Tada ste mi kazali da bi ovaj grad mogao postati dobar centar za koprodukciju jer je pozicijski vrlo atraktivna destinacija za filmske ekipe. Što to znači u praksi? U neposrednoj blizini Rijeke imate planine, more, otoke, Istru, koje kad spojite sa samim gradom dobivate vrlo atraktivnu kombinaciju poželjnu za strane filmske koprodukcije. Nadalje, tu je i aerodrom, dobra prometna povezanost s unutrašnjošću te ono što je posebno nas razveselilo kad smo snimali, vrlo agilni Odjel za kulturu pri gradu Rijeci koji pomaže filmskim ekipama u svakom pogledu, od dozvola do konkretne financijske pomoći. To je mogućnost koju treba razvijati dalje prema sustavnijoj organiziranosti i kako čujem, dosta se stvari na tom polju već i pokrenulo. Ono što svi trebaju imati na umu je da kad jedna holivudska produkcija dolazi snimati, osim samih troškova snimanja, kao turisti ostave barem milijun dolara. Mislim da je to dosta dobar razlog za razvijanje prvog hrvatskog regionalnog film commissiona, a Rijeka sigurno ima najveći potencijal da to prva i ostvari. - Gledajući Vaš film „Mezanin“, mnogi Riječani dvojili su oko lokacija na kojima ste snimali. Kako ste ih Vi otkrivali? Nikad ne bježim od poznatih mjesta snimanja, no uvijek ih volim snimati na neki novi, dotad neviđen način. Sve lokacije uvijek prate duh filma tako da to stvarno ovisi o materiji. Sjećam se prvi put kad sam ušao u Lubenice na Cresu, prva misao je bila: toliko stranaca je snimalo ovdje, ali druga, odlučujuća misao je bila: Idemo snimiti Lubenice na način na koji ih dosad nitko nije... Tako je bilo i s Rijekom, tražili smo lokacije koje su bile duboko zakopane u dušu „Mezanina“ i mislim da su jako pridonijele atmosferi filma. - Glad za ljubavlju ispred poslovnog uspjeha je motiv koji je sveprisutan, pa tako i u Vašim filmovima, što stručna i šira javnost uvijek iznova nagrađuje, iako je riječ o tmurnim temama. Kako to tumačite? Ljubav i glad za ljubavlju pokreće svijet. To je energija koja nas još uvijek drži na okupu. Mislim da je ona teza „novac pokreće svijet“ upravo i izmišljena da prikrije, na trenutak potisne svijest o svemu emotivnom koje znamo da čuči negdje u nama... - Zanimljivo je da ste do svoje desete godine željeli biti novinar, a od jedanaeste redatelj. Što je označilo prekretnicu? Jedno malo kino u Velikoj Gorici gdje sam sjedio često sam i upijao stvari s ekrana.

Rijeka's authorities who support film crews in every occasion, from certificates to specific financial help. That is an opportunity that should be developed towards a more systematic organization and as I heard, many things in that field have already initiated. The thing that everyone should bear in mind is that a certain Hollywood production comes to film, not only thanks to the costs of filming itself; but they also spend at least a million dollars as tourists. I think that is a pretty good reason to start developing the first Croatian regional film commission and Rijeka surely has the largest potential to be the first one to achieve that. - Watching your film “Mezanin” many Rijeka citizens were not sure where the locations on which you filmed were. How did you discover them? I never run from famous places for filming but I always like to film it in a new and unique way. Locations always follow the spirit of the film so that that depends completely on the subject matter. I remember coming to Lubenice for the first time, on the island of Cres, my first thought was: so many foreigners have filmed here, but the second, decisive thought was: Let’s film Lubenice in a way that no one has done before... The same thing happened in Rijeka, we were looking for locations which were dug deep into the “Mezanin” soul and I think they contributed a lot to the film’s atmosphere. - The hunger for love over business success is an ever present motive in films, in your films too which is time and again awarded by the expert and wider public, although the themes are dark. How do you explain that? Love and the hunger for love move the world. That is the energy that continues to keep us together. I think that the expression “money moves the world” was invented to hide and to repress consciousness for a moment about all the emotions that we know lie somewhere within us... - It is interesting that until the age of 10 you wanted to be a journalist, and from the age of 11 on a director? What was the turning point? A small cinema in Velika Gorica where I often sat alone and absorbed the things that appeared on the screen. - Did your parents have an influence on your professional decision? No. But it would be weak to say they weren’t supportive. I was always satisfied that no one from my family had anything to do with my vocation. This is my road, and they have always been continually supportive of me. - As part of the admission test to the Academy you had to register a film and your choice was a horror film? What kind of horror film? I analysed the greatest horror hits and I was interested in the affect that a film could leave on the spectator. Very risky, but very honest too. - You often used to say that you did not gain any extra knowledge at the Academy, but from that period you remember

...Rijeku vizualno možete usporediti s mnogim morskim europskim gradovima. Ono što je po meni najveća snaga Rijeke, zbog toga što je luka, zbog povijesti ili jednostavno zbog njenih žitelja, je njezina multikulturalnost pa Rijeku smatram najmultikulturalnijim gradom u Hrvatskoj. Otvorenost je najjači riječki adut... ...Rijeka can visually be compared to the numerous European cities by the sea. Rijeka’s strongest power is the fact that it is a port and thanks to its history or simply to the people that live here I consider it to be the most multicultural city in Croatia. Openness is the greatest asset Rijeka...

- Jesu li Vaši roditelji utjecali na Vaše profesionalno opredjeljenje? Nisu. Ali blago je reći da su bili podrška. Uvijek sam nekako bio i sretan što nitko iz moje obitelji nije imao veze s redateljskim pozivom. Ovo je moj put, a oni su uz mene stalno. - Za prijemni na Akademiju trebali ste snimiti film, a Vaš je bio horor? Kakav? Analizirao sam najveće uspješnice horora, zanimao me efekt koji film može ostaviti na gledaoca. Dosta riskantno, ali i dosta iskreno. - Često znate kazati da Vam Akademija nije dala neko turbo znanje, te da iz tog razdoblja pamtite rečenicu Vašeg mentora Zorana Tadića: “Neću vas učiti kako snimati filmove, naučit ću vas filmskoj etici". Objasnite nam što je filmska etika? Zoran Tadić je uz Antu Peterlića bio najbitniji ljudski faktor mog boravka na ADU. Filmska etika znači da se bitne stvari na filmskom snimanju postižu u najpreciznijoj harmoniji ljudi koji rade svoj posao i svatko daje svoj maksimum. Etika znači poštivanje svakog čovjeka koji se nalazi u filmskom procesu, od glumca do nosača kablova ili šofera. Tu ne postoji šefovanje, titule, pozicije, postoji samo svijest o tome da film koji se radi mora biti što bolji. - Čovjek koji je prvi donio film u Hrvatsku bio je Vaš prezimenjak. Možete li nam nešto više reći o tome? Pokojni profesor Ivo Škrabalo me razuvjerio u tezi da se nitko mog prezimena nije bavio filmom prije. Naime, prvi čovjek koji je donio filmski projektor na ove prostore krajem 19. st. također se prezivao Matanić. - Malo je poznato da ste napustili Akademiju kad su Vas srušili na diplomskom. O kakvom je filmu bilo riječ i što je bilo presudno da ste se ipak vratili i diplomirali? Kombinacija mog smisla za neslane šale i loš humor s jedne strane te profesorska nezainteresiranost s druge pridonijeli su rušenju pred kraj studiranja. Jednostavno, u takvoj klimi, nezinteresiranoj za film i loš humor, nisam više htio biti. Deset godina kasnije, jedan dragi profesor i moji roditelji bili

a sentence uttered by your mentor Zoran Tadić: “I will not teach you how to film a film; I will teach you film ethics”. Can you explain what film ethics are? Besides Ante Peterlić, Zoran Tadić was the most important human factor of my studying at the Academy of Dramatic Arts. Film ethics means that important things whilst filming a film are achieved in the most accurate harmony of people doing their job whilst everyone gives their maximum. Ethics means respecting every human being finding himself in the film process, from the actor to the cable man or driver. Here a boss, a title, a position does not exist. The only thing that exists is the awareness of the fact that film should be as much as possible. - The man who brought film to Croatia for the first time had your surname. Can you say something more about the subject? The now deceased professor Ivo Škrabalo persuaded me otherwise and said that no one with my surname had been part of the film industry before. In fact, the first man to bring a film projector to these parts at the end of 19th century also had the Matanić surname! - Few people know that you abandoned the Academy when they wouldn’t let you pass the graduation-test. What kind of film was that and what was the crucial thing which made you return and finish the studies? A combination of my sense for bad jokes and poor humour on the one side and the professors’ indifference on the other contributed to my not passing the final test. Simply, I didn't want to spend any more time in such a climate, uninterested in film and without humour. Ten years later, a dear professor and my parents were the reason I achieved the degree. Now, as I have recently been lecturing on film a lot, it is a great pleasure to motivate and encourage young people. - You did the film that made you famous “A Cashier Wants to Go to the Seaside” with a budget of 250,000 dollars which is the amount that Americans spend approximately on film promotion. However, the film was successful. Did the inspiration for that film come from your mother, a professional cashier? Almost all the films I have done look more luxurious than the real budget invested. Here we are really masters of settling down. One of the crucial inspirations for the “Cashier" was my mother Ana who had been working in a market for decades. By her side I saw the market in a completely new way, I peeked into the basements, analysed dust-coats and Borosana shoes, and I felt the real market atmosphere which was crucial for the film. - I remembered one of your sentences where you said that "you achieved success only when you turned the camera towards yourself". Can you explain that? Only when a person starts with the merciless analysis of himself and his frankness can he convey that to canvas. I always say that film is a reflection of ourselves, a mirror of reality and that is their greatest strength. They have to correct us or at least face us with ourselves. - Tell us something about your next large film project. What are your plans?

su razlog što sam diplomirao. Sad, s obzirom da u posljednje vrijeme dosta predajem o filmu, velik užitak mi je motivirati i ohrabrivati mlade ljude. - Film koji Vas je proslavio „Blagajnica hoće ići na more“ radili ste s budžetom od 250.000 dolara, koliko primjerice Amerikanci potroše na promociju filma. Ipak, uspjeh nije izostao. Jeste li za taj film inspiraciju pronašli u majci, blagajnici po struci? Gotovo svi filmovi koje sam radio izgledaju puno raskošnije od njihovog stvarnog budžeta. Tu smo stvarno majstori snalaženja. Jedna je od ključnih inspiracija za „Blagajnicu“ moja majka Ana koja u dućanu radi desetljećima. Uz nju sam dućan promatrao na sasvim novi način, zavirivao u podrume, analizirao kute i borosane, osjetio pravu dućansku atmosferu koja je bila presudna za film. - Zapamtila sam jednu Vašu rečenicu da ste „uspjeh postigli tek onda kada ste kameru okrenuli prema sebi“. Pojasnite nam to. Tek kad čovjek krene u nemilosrdnu analizu sebe i svoje iskrenosti može to prenijeti na platnu. Uvijek kažem da su filmovi ogledalo nas samih, ogledalo stvarnosti i to im je najveća snaga. Oni nas moraju korigirati ili barem suočiti s nama samima. - Recite nam nešto više o Vašem sljedećem velikom filmskom projektu. Kakvi su planovi? Razvijam jedan ljubavni film. Da, ni manje ni više, pravi ljubavni film. Uz to, nakon uspjeha „Ćaće“, obećao sam povratak u obiteljske ličke krajeve gdje lovimo mogućnost za snimanje nastavka nazvanog, naravno, „Mater“... - Uvijek ste nasmiješeni, a ljudi Vas doživljavaju izuzetno pristupačnim i šarmantnim. Kako to uspijevate? Volim ljude u stvarnom životu, valjda to oni i osjete. S druge sam strane oprezan prema ljudskoj prirodi, pa se to i u filmovima osjeti...

I have been developing a love film. Yes, no more no less but the real love film. Besides after the success of the “Father”, I promised to come back to the family Lika region where we will be chasing the chance to film a sequel called, of course, “Mother”... - You always smile and people consider you as rather outgoing and charming. How do you manage that? I love people in real life, I suppose they feel that. On the other hand I am cautious with regard to human nature and I suppose that is felt in my films too...

- Kako izgleda privatni život Dalibora Matanića, skriven od javnosti. Čime se bavite i što volite?

- What does the private life of Dalibor Matanić look like, a life hidden from the public eye? What do you do and what do you like?

Putujem. I kad se ne mičem. Radim i odmaram se od 0 do 24. Nema pravila. Veliki sam hedonist. Time se bavim.

I travel. Even when I'm not moving. I work and I relax 24/7. There are no rules. I’m a great hedonist. That is what I do.

- Jedan od popularnijih naslova među Riječanima je „Kako čitati grad“ autorice Radmile Matejčić. Možete li nam reći kako Vi osobno čitate Rijeku?

- One of the most famous titles amongst Rijeka citizens is "How to read the city" by author Radmila Matejčić. Can you say how you personally read Rijeka?

Ima nešto oslobađajuće u atmosferi Rijeke. Osim odlične pozicije, divne arhitekture, ima nešto u ulicama, ljudima što daje pozitivan duh gradu. Već u prvih nekoliko dana svog boravka, u Rijeci sam se osjećao kao kod kuće.

There is something about the atmosphere in Rijeka that is liberating. Besides the excellent location and beautiful architecture, there is something on the streets and the people that gives the city a positive spirit. In first few days I spent in Rijeka I already felt I was at home.

- Proputovali ste gotovo cijeli svijet. S kojim biste gradom usporedili Rijeku?

- You have travelled almost around the whole world. Which city would you compare Rijeka to?

Rijeku vizualno možete usporediti s mnogim morskim europskim gradovima. Ono što je po meni najveća snaga Rijeke, zbog toga što je luka, zbog povijesti ili jednostavno zbog njenih žitelja, njezina je multikulturalnost pa Rijeku smatram najmultikulturalnijim gradom u Hrvatskoj. Otvorenost je najjači riječki adut.

Rijeka can visually be compared to the numerous European cities by the sea. Rijeka’s strongest power is the fact that it is a port and thanks to its history or simply to the people that live here I consider it to be the most multicultural city in Croatia. Openness is the greatest asset Rijeka has.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Igor Rivetti, Luka Benčić Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić, arhiva

Rijeka se iz sivoga industrijskoga grada pretvorila u grad zabave premda se ta transformacija nije dogodila preko noći. Još su se devedesetih godina prošloga stoljeća vrata kafića zatvarala oko 23 sata i zabava se selila u obližnju Opatiju. Korzo je nakon pola noći bilo pusto poput Sahare. Međutim, postepeno se život počeo vraćati na riječke ulice, što se ponajprije može zahvaliti produljenjem radnog vremena ugostiteljskih objekata, odnosno dobronamjernom politikom Grada prema ugostiteljima. Takva smjernica gradske uprave pokazala se vrlo sretnim rješenjem koje je u samo godinu-dvije počelo davati rezultate. S godinama su se neki od klubova prve generacije ugasili, neki su opstali, a mnogi su zbog prilagodbi prošli različite stilske faze. No, noćni je život postao konstanta koja je pustila korijenje i postala nezamjenjiv dio riječkoga identiteta.

The grey industrial city of Rijeka transformed into a city of entertainment although this transformation did not happen over night. Yet, in 1990s bar doors used to close at around 11 pm and entertainment moved to the nearby town of Opatija. After midnight the Korzo was deserted like the Sahara. However, life gradually started to return to Rijeka’s streets which can mostly be attributed to the longer working hours of catering facilities, that is, well intentioned City politics towards caterers. This objective prepared by the city administration would appear to be a very pleasant solution that however, only started to produce results one or two years’ later. Over the years some of the first generation clubs closed, some survived and many, due to adjustments, passed through a variety of style phases. But night life became a constant that left roots and became an unchangeable part of Rijeka’s identity.

BARD

Smješten na Trgu Grivica ispred gradske Katedrale sv. Vida, Bard se s godinama prometnuo u jedan od najpopularnijih riječkih kafića. Uređen je u stilu irskog puba pa u skladu sa svojim imidžem nudi široku lepezu uglavnom europskih piva. No, to nije jedini razlog zašto Riječani ovdje dolaze. Ugodna, nenametljiva atmosfera, diskretna glazba od prevladavajućeg irskog folka do bluesa, rocka i americane jednostavan su recept za druženje po principu „gdje svi znaju tvoje ime“ koje ovdje počinje već u poslijepodnevnim satima, negdje s krajem radnog vremena većine ureda i traje do pola noći, kad se pjesmom „Go Down Moses“ označi „fajrunt“.

Located on Grivica Square in front of the city’s St. Vitus Cathedral, over the years Bard has become one of the most famous pubs in Rijeka. It is furnished in the style of an Irish pub and in keeping with its image, offers a wide range of mainly European beers. But this is not the only reason why Rijeka citizens come here. It has a pleasant, unobtrusive atmosphere, with discreet music where Irish folk prevails and is played live as well as blues, rock and Americana, this is a simple recipe for hanging out according to the principle “where everyone knows your name”. Meetings in this pub start in the afternoon hours, sometime after the working hours of most offices and last until midnight when the song "Go Down Moses" marks the end of the session.

TUNEL

Rijeka se iz sivog industrijskog grada pretvorila u grad zabave

The grey industrial city of Rijeka transformed into a city of entertainment

Zabavi je Rijeka dom Rijeka is a place for fun

Već od prvog dana svojega postojanja, Jazz Tunel na Školjiću pokazao se simpatičnim klubom pomno promišljenog koncepta koji ne zastranjuje ovisno o tome kako vjetar puše. Kao što mu i samo ime kaže, sve se ovdje vrti oko jazz glazbe koja, iako bi se na prvu reklo da nema toliki broj poklonika, može biti sjajan lajtmotiv kvalitetne zabave. S koncertima koji se praktički održavaju na dnevnoj bazi, Tunel je riječkim klubovima nametnuo nove standarde. Malenom pozornicom prodefilirala su sva najvažnija imena domaćeg jazza, kao i brojni europski glazbeni uglednici, a redoviti jam sessioni omogućili su mladim riječkim glazbenicima sjajnu praksu uživo. Tunel je krcat gotovo svake večeri, a osim jazza, ovo je jedan od rijetkih klubova gdje se zahvaljujući DJ-u Smeđem Šećeru mogu slušati coolerski soul i tvrdi funk iz šezdesetih i sedamdesetih i to direktno s, nikad prežaljenih, vinila.

PLACE Place u Ružićevoj ulici nasljednik je čuvene Big Rock Mamme, jednog od prvih riječkih klubova iz klupske renesanse kasnih devedesetih. No, za razliku od Big Rock Mamme koja se oslanjala isključivo na konzumaciju i juke-box, Place je otišao korak dalje i riječkoj mladeži ponudio pomnije razrađene programe. Ovdje se, u režiji nekoliko riječkih DJ-eva, može plesati uz kvalitetnu

TUNEL Since the beginning of its existence, the Jazz Tunel on Školjić proved to be an appealing club with a carefully imagined concept that has not deviated over time. As the same name suggests, everything is encircled around jazz music here which, even though it might be said is a kind of music without a wide following, can also be a great leitmotif of quality music. With concerts taking place practically on a daily basis, Tunel has imposed completely new standards for the Rijeka club scene. Almost every important name of the national jazz scene as well as numerous European musicians have performed on the small stage, and regular jam sessions have provided great live practice for young Rijeka musicians. Tunel is full almost every night, and as well as jazz, is one of the rare clubs where, thanks to DJ Smeđi Šećer, cool soul and hard funk from the 1960s and 70s can be heard here together with the never forgotten, vynils.

PLACE Place in Ružićeva Street is the successor of the famous Big Rock Mamma, one of the first clubs in Rijeka from the club renaissance of the late 1990s. However, compared to Big Rock Mamma that was exclusively founded on the bar and juke box, Place made a step forward and offered Rijeka’s youth more accurately elaborated programmes. Here, with music played by

alternativnu i indie glazbu, a agilna ekipa iz Distune Promotiona redovito dovodi zanimljive domaće i strane underground bendove. Redovita klijentela ovog kluba uglavnom su tinejdžeri i mlađi dvadesetogodišnjaci, a zabava traje do 4 ujutro.

KUNS KUNS ili Klub umjetnika na Sušaku, smješten na samom početku povijesne Lujzijanske ceste, u Ulici Franje Račkog, pokrenuo je Damir Čargonja Čarli, poznati riječki ugostitelj i likovni umjetnik. Izvorno zamišljen kao okupljalište relativno uskog kruga umjetnika, s povremenim izložbama i koncertima, KUNS je vrlo brzo nadišao taj koncept i počeo privlačiti sve veći broj posjetitelja. Razlozi su višestruki, od dobre atmosfere nabijene pozitivnim vibracijama, preko solidne glazbe do vrlo dobrih programa koji mogu zadovoljiti potrebe šireg kruga konzumenata onoga što bismo mogli nazvati alternativnom kulturom.

a number of Rijeka DJs, you can dance to quality alternative or indie music, and an active team from Distune Promotion regularly brings interesting national and international underground bands to the club. Regular clients here are mainly teenagers and younger twenty years olds, and entertainment here continues until 4 AM.

KUNS KUNS or the Artists club on Sušak, can be found in Franjo Rački Street at the very start of the historical Lujzijana road, and was initiated by Damir Čargonja Čarli, a famous Rijeka caterer and visual artist. Originally conceived as a meeting point for a relatively narrow circle of artists, with occasional exhibitions and concerts, KUNS soon surpassed that concept and began attracting numerous visitors. The reasons for this are multiple, from the great atmosphere loaded with positive vibrations, over the solid music and extremely good programmes that can satisfy the needs of a wider range of consumers of something that might be called alternative culture.

CUKARIKAFE

Cukarikafe je nepretenciozan kafić smješten kraj parkirališta Gomila u riječkome Starom gradu koji je vrlo brzo postao omiljeno okupljalište riječkih glazbenika, kazalištaraca, marketingaša i općenito mlađih intelektualaca. Nazvan po nekad popularnoj primorskoj dječkoj igri, ovaj je kafić pun od jutra do mraka jer je idealno mjesto ne samo za ispijanje jutarnje kave, već i za neobavezno večernje druženje. Vikendom DJ-i pružaju zanimljivu

Cukarikafe is an unpretentious bar located close to the Gomila car park, in Rijeka’s old city, which in a short period of time became a favourite gathering point for Rijeka musicians, people from the theatre, marketing and young intellectuals in general. Named after the famous Coastal children’s game, this bar is full from the morning hours until late evening as it is an ideal place not only for morning coffee but also for not obligatory evening company as well. Over the weekend, DJs play

Tunel

glazbenu podlogu satkanu od kvalitetnog popa, rocka i indieja od šezdesetih do danas, a radno vrijeme produženo je do 2 ujutro.

interesting music including quality pop, rock and indie dating back to the 1960s to the present whilst working hours extend until 2 AM.

PHANAS

Phanas je pravi riječki pub. Mjesto je to u kojem se slave pobjede riječkih sportskih klubova, tuguje zbog poraza, ali i mjesto ugodnog ambijenta čija je unutrašnjost uređena u brodskom stilu. Ime Phanas danas je asocijacija za zabavu u gradu, no Phanas je zapravo po legendama jedno od prvih imena za Rijeku, ali i naziv za pagansko-pretkršćansko božanstvo štovano na ovim prostorima. Kao i većinu pubova u svijetu, krasi ga topla atmosfera dodatno ukrašena brojnim pubovskim detaljima. Zahvaljujući svojem položaju u blizini Korza i gradske tržnice, tijekom dana idealno je mjesto za ispijanje kave, čitanje novina te ugodne razgovore, a kada padne mrak, vlast preuzima DJ i to s glazbom iz 80-ih, 90-ih, ali i novim svjetskim i domaćim hitovima. Petkom i subotom Phanas je otvoren do četiri sata ujutro, a četvrtak je većinom rezerviran za svirku uživo. Pub je poznat i po after-job partyjima. Petkom nakon posla, brojni poslovni ljudi provode popodne uz veliki izbor vina i zvuke riječke Klape Nevera. Phanas je otvoren deset godina i za to vrijeme postao je gotovo kultno riječko mjesto u kojem se često čuju i brojni strani jezici.

Phanas is a real Rijeka pub. A place where the wins of Rijeka’s sporting clubs are celebrated and where the losses are grieved but also a place with a pleasant atmosphere whose interior looks like a boat. The Phanas name today is associated with fun in the town, but Phanas was actually one of Rijeka’s first names too as a name for the pagan and pre-Christian divinity honoured in these areas. Like most pubs in the world it is decorated by a warm atmosphere embellished with numerous pub details. Thanks to its location close to the Korzo and the city market, during the day Phanas is an ideal place to have a coffee, read a newspaper and have a pleasant chat and when the

BOA KUNS

Boa je smještena nekoliko metara od najprometnije riječke pješačke ulice pa je tako danju, zahvaljujući svojim

Cukarikafe

evening comes, the rule is taken over by the DJ playing music from the 1980s and 1990s as well as new world and Croatian hits. On Fridays and Saturdays Phanas is open until 4 AM, and Thursdays are mostly booked for live music. The pub is famous for its after-work parties as well. On Fridays after work, numerous business men and women spend the afternoon with the wide choice of wines and sounds of Rijeka's klapa Nevera. Phanas has been open for ten years now and in that period has become almost a cult Rijeka location where numerous foreign languages are often spoken. Stereo

terasama, česta stanica Riječana koji se tu zaustavljaju da bi uzeli predah između obveza, bilo za ispijanje kave ili konzumaciju kolača. Noću se Boa pretvara u klub kojim dominira veliki Swarovski kristalni luster pod kojim se okuplja većinom mlada urbana publika. Prostorom na dva kata odjekuje house glazba, većinom komercijalna. Kvalitetan noćni program često obogaćuju i brojni svjetski DJ-i koji gostuju vikendom. Svoja vrata Boa vikendom ne zatvara sve do 5 sati ujutro, a dotad ostaje samo jedno - zabava.

STEREO Stereo dvorana, smještena u sklopu hotela Neboder na Sušaku, jedan je od boljih riječkih klupskih prostora. S kapacitetom od 400 do 600 posjetitelja, ovo je idealno mjesto za žive svirke popularnijih hrvatskih pop, rock, hip-hop i elektroničkih bendova, kao i za održavanje DJ večeri i sveprisutnih

BOA Boa is located several metres from Rijeka’s most crowded pedestrian street so that during the day, thanks to its terraces, it is a regular stop for Rijeka citizens take a break from their day-to-day chores, by having a coffee or a slice of cake. At night Boa transforms into a club where the large Swarovski crystal chandalier dominates and under which the mainly young urban public gather. Mostly commercial and house music resound through the space on the two floors. The quality night programme is often enriched by numerous world-famous DJs at the weekend when Boa leaves its doors open until 5 AM and only one thing happens there at that time and that is entertainment.

STEREO Stereo hall, located inside the Neboder Hotel on Sušak, is one of the best clubs in Rijeka. With a capacity of 400-600 visitors, this is an ideal place for live music from the famous Croatian pop, rock, hip-hop and electronic music band scene as well as

Karolina

partija različite provenijencije. Klub je pokrenuo Simon Dejhalla, uredivši ga u stilu londonskih klubova, a nakon njegova povlačenja preuzeo ga je mladi riječki promotor Tomislav Dekanić, poznatiji kao Vojko Mecena. Od ove jeseni Stereo programe realizira u suradnji s portalom Muzika.hr, a vikend događanja, sudeći po najavama, ne nedostaje.

KAROLINA

Phanas

Cafe bar i noćni klub Karolina jedan je od najmlađih riječkih mjesta za izlazak. Unatoč kratkom stažu već je postala nezaobilazno mjesto riječke zabave. Karolina je svoje ime dobila po jednoj od najpoznatijih osoba riječke povijesti - Karolini Belinić. Karolinina povijesna uloga počinje 1813, zahvaljujući nezavidnoj situaciji na ulazu u riječku luku. Kako bi onemogućili opstanak Napoleonove vojske, engleski brodovi spremali su se bombardirati Rijeku. Mlada Karolina, odlučna u nakani da pomogne svome gradu, otišla je na admiralski brod i ženskim čarima spasila svoj grad. Tako kaže priča, a čari riječkoga noćnog života pruža noćni klub smješten na Rivi. Velika terasa odlično je popunjena gotovo tijekom cijeloga dana, a mnogi je preko dana koriste kao bijeg od gradskih problema. Iako smještena u samome centru, Karolina s terasom uz more pruža smirujući ugođaj i pogled na brodove koji uplovljavaju u luku. Noću se Karolina pretvara u sve, samo ne u mirno mjesto. Na velikoj terasi s vanjskim šankom teško je pronaći mjesto, a s obzirom da je Karolina okrenuta prema moru, poseban ugođaj stvara potpuno ostakljena jedna strana kluba. Moderno

for hosting DJ nights and parties with diverse origins. The club was initiated by Simon Dejhalla who furnished it in the style of London clubs and after he retired, the club was taken over by the young Rijeka promoter, Tomislav Dekanić, also known as Vojko Mecena. As of this autumn, Stereo programmes are organized in collaboration with the Muzika.hr portal and weekend events, judging by the announcements, will be numerous.

KAROLINA The Karolina coffee bar and night club is one of the youngest places in Rijeka. However, in spite of its brief existence, it has already become an unavoidable place for Rijeka entertainment. Karolina was named after one of the most famous characters from Rijeka’s past – Karolina Belinić. Karolina’s historical role began in 1813 thanks to an unpleasant situation that occurred at the entrance to Rijeka’s port. In fact, in order to stop the survival of Napoleon’s army, British ships were planning to bomb Rijeka. The young Karolina, decisive in her intention to help her city, went to the admiral’s ship and saved the city by using her womanly charms. That is how the story goes, and the magic of Rijeka’s night life is offered at the Waterfront night club. A large terrace is filled almost throughout the day, and numerous people use it as an escape from city problems. Although located in the heart of the city, Karolina, with its terrace by the sea, offers a relaxing atmosphere and a view of the ships entering the port. At night Karolina transforms into everything but a place for relaxation. It is hard to find a free place on the large terrace with its outdoor bar, and as it faces the sea one side is completely covered in glass creating

uređenje s mnogo svijetlih boja i svjetlosnih efekata prati i prikladna glazba. Klub je orijentiran prema domaćoj i stranoj klupskoj glazbi i to sve do 2 sata ujutro radnim danom i do 5 sati vikendom.

TERMINAL Terminal je najveći riječki klub smješten na riječkom lukobranu, a njegova je pozicija po mnogočemu jedinstvena. Terminal je klub koji s jedne strane nudi pogled na otvoreno more, a s druge na grad Rijeku. Teško se odlučiti s koje je strane kluba ljepši pogled, a između grada i mora smjestili su se šankovi, plesačice, konobari, DJ-evi te brojni gosti koji svakoga vikenda ne propuštaju zabavu u klubu najljepših boja u gradu. Kao i u istoimenom filmu s Tomom Hanksom i iz riječkoga je Terminala teško izaći, ali ne zbog problema s vizom već zbog dobre zabave. Za mix-pultom Terminala često stoje poznati svjetski DJ-evi zbog kojih je Terminal utočište svih onih željnih zabave, ne samo iz Rijeke, već i iz cijele Hrvatske, ali i Slovenije te Italije. U ovom klubu gotovo da i nije moguće čuti domaću muziku. Klub može primiti i više od 1000 posjetitelja, a za njih je organiziran potpuno besplatan prijevoz taksijem do užeg središta grada. U sklopu kluba nalazi se i terminal Yacht restoran sa zanimljivom ponudom jela, bogatom vinskom kartom te možda i najljepšim pogledom u gradu. Za potpunu ponudu tu je i cafe bar koji radi cijeli dan. Terminal je jedan od najluksuznijih noćnih klubova u Hrvatskoj, a za njegov zanimljiv i po mnogočemu drugačiji izgled pobrinuo se, mnogo puta nagrađivani, arhitektonski studio Randić-Turato.

a magical atmosphere. A modernly furnished space with lots of light colours and light effects is accompanied by fitting music, which is mainly Croatian and foreign club music. The club remains open until 2 AM on working days and until 5 AM on weekends.

TERMINAL Terminal is the largest club in Rijeka, located at the passenger terminal on Rijeka’s breakwater. This is a unique position for a number of reasons. A club that from one side offers a view over the open sea and from the other over the city of Rijeka. It is hard to decide which part has the more beautiful view, and between the city and the sea there are bars, dancers, waiters, DJs and, of course, numerous guests who do not miss the party in the club each weekend with the most beautiful colours in the city. As in the film of the same name starring Tom Hanks, it is hard to leave Rijeka's terminal too, but not due to visa problems but to the great fun happening inside. World famous DJs often perform on the Terminal decks and the place is often a refuge for people from Rijeka, Croatia, Slovenia and Italy looking for entertainment. Croatian music can hardly be heard in this club. The club can host more than 1000 visitors, and taxi transport is organized to the city centre completely free of charge. Within the club is the Terminal Yacht restaurant with an interesting offer of food, a rich wine list and perhaps the most beautiful view in the city. And to complete the offer there is also a coffee bar that is open throughout the day. Terminal is one of the most luxurious night clubs in Croatia, and thanks to its interesting and, for many reasons, distinct appearance designed by the Randić-Turato studio, it has won a number of awards.

Terminal

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić

puta. Ne samo zbog njegova smještaja u ulici u najužem gradskom središtu, nego i zbog skraćenja naziva na njegov najpoznatiji dio, na riječ Palach. Među mladim Riječanima gotovo da i nema onoga tko ne zna što je i gdje je Palach. Zato je u potrazi za njim dovoljno kojemu mlađem prolazniku spomenuti tu čarobnu riječ i svi će upitnici istog trenutka nestati. Položaj Palacha u gradskom središtu pun je simbolike: neskrivenih punkerskih ishodišta i hard-core ugođaja, opkoljen bankarskim, političkim i umjetničkim institucijama, zdanjima iz kojih zrači upravljačka moć. Ako alternativa predstavlja tamno srce grada, doslovce i metaforički, onda se ritam njegovih otkucaja može mjeriti upravo u Palachu.

Ako je stožerno mjesto njujorškog punka legendarni klub CBGB, hrvatski je CBGB upravoPalach

Klub Palach,

If the headquarters of New York’s punk is the legendary CBGB Club, then Croatia's is right here in Palach

alternativno srce grada

Palach Club, an alternative heart of the city Stojeći u večernjim satima u redu kako bi kupili ulaznicu za nastup neke od ovdašnjih ili gostujućih alternativnih rock skupina ili pak družeći se prijepodne u njegovim prostorima sa svojim društvom istog (pod)kulturnog profila, mnogi mladi Riječani baš kao i njihovi poznanici iz drugih gradova – znaju da su na pravom mjestu. Pravom u njihovu svijetu znači ozračje što različitije od onoga koje se susreće unutar oficijelne kulture – bez protokolarnih pravila, kurtoazne konverzacije, svečanih odijela i kravata. Izlizane kožne jakne, frizure koje svoje ishodište duguju punku, rječnik pun žargonske metaforike koju u život lansira mladi urbani svijet, zvučni zid žestoke buke ovog ili onog alt-rock pravca – elementi su atmosfere toga mjesta. Kako u njemu, tako ispred njega. Službeni naziv mjesta je Omladinski klub Palach i nalazi se u Kružnoj ulici. Pronaći ga nije teško čak ni ako ste u Rijeci po prvi

Standing in a queue during the evening hours to buy a ticket to a performance of one of the local or guest alternative rock bands or spending time in the afternoon in the Palach area with friends of the same (sub) cultural profile, numerous young citizens of Rijeka – as well as those from other cities – know that they are in the right place. In their world, the atmosphere is right here and as different as possible from that encountered in the so called official culture – without rules of protocol, courtesy conversation, ceremonial suits and ties. Leather jackets are worn, hairstyles originate from the punk era, there is a vocabulary full of slang that is launched into the world by a young urban world, a sound wall of intense noise of one or other alt-rock direction – these are the elements of the atmosphere here. Both inside and in front of it.

A sve je započelo namjerama drukčije provenijencije. Početak priče o Palachu seže u daleke 1960-te, u dane inicijative gradske studentarije za iznalaženjem mjesta pod suncem gdje bi se mladi akademski građani mogli družiti. Prvi klupski prostor u Kružnoj spominje se još 1963., tri godine nakon klubu je ustupljeno cijelo prizemlje zgrade u kojoj je smješten i danas. Prostorom je upravljao gradski Studentski centar, a kad su 1968. upravljanje preuzeli studenti, klub je zaživio novim, programski dinamičnijim životom. Do veljače 1969. klub je radio pod imenom Index, a otad kao Studentski klub s dodatkom u obliku imena i prezimena češkog studenta čije se prezime proširilo svijetom kao simbol odbijanja demokracije na sovjetski, tenkovski način. Polazište inicijative? Riječki studenti strojarstva koji su se u trenutku valjanja tenkovskih gusjenica praškim ulicama i samospaljivanja Jana Palacha nalazili na ekskurziji u tadašnjoj Čehoslovačkoj.

It is officially called the Palach Youth Club and is located in Kružna Street. It is not difficult to find it even if you are visiting Rijeka for the first time. Not only because of its location in Kružna Street, it is located in the heart of the city, but also thanks to the abbreviated part of its name, the word Palach. Amongst young Rijeka citizens, almost everyone knows what it is and where it can be found. So, when looking for it, it is enough to mention that magical word to some young passer-by and all your questions will immediately be answered. The location of Palach in the city centre is full of symbols: the undisguised punk starting point and hard-core atmosphere surrounded by financial, political and artistic institutions, buildings from which administrative power radiates. If the alternative represents, literally and metaphorically, the dark heart of the city, then the rhythm of its beat can be precisely measured in Palach. And everything it began with a completely different purpose. The beginning of the Palach story dates back to the 1960s, in a period of student’s initiatives to find a place under the Sun where young academic citizens could hang out. The first club space in Kružna Street had already been mentioned in 1963 and three years later the whole ground floor of the building was consigned to the club where it has remained until today. The space was administrated by the city Student Centre, and when, in 1968, the administration was taken over directly by students, the club began to exist with a new, more dynamic and programmed, life. Until February 1969 the club operated under the name of Index and since that period it has become the Student Club to which the name and surname of the Czech Student was added whose surname was

diffused throughout the world as a symbol of rejecting democracy by means of a Soviet tank. The start of the initiative? The Rijeka Mechanical Engineering students who, whilst tanks were passing through Prague's streets and the self-immolation of Jan Palach, found themselves on a trip to Czechoslovakia. In a period when a name had to be chosen, as if the destiny of the space in Kružna had already been written. The name became a kind of destination that defined the large and somehow crucial part of what needed to be told both to the city and to the world through a program of events taking place at the Palach club and using rebellious youth expressions. The everyday dynamics of events were dictated by an artistic vein of assembled protagonists, “urban guerrillas”, that could be seen both inside and around the Palach area.

U trenutku odabira imena, kao da je bila zapisana sudbina prostora u Kružnoj. Ime je postalo neka vrsta odrednice koja definira povelik, ako ne i ključni dio onoga što se programskim sadržajima kluba Palach želi kazati gradu i svijetu, čineći to jezikom buntovne mladosti. Svakodnevnu dinamiku zbivanja diktira artistički nerv u i oko Palacha okupljenih protagonista „urbane gerile“. Palach postaje posebno dinamičan poligon alternativne umjetničke i društvene prakse u drugoj polovici 70-ih, kada širom otvara vrata gradskom punk pokretu, točnije pravoj bujici punka i novoga vala što se izlila na gradske ulice. U Palachu su svoje prve nastupe zabilježile grupe Grad, Grč, Denis&Denis, Laufer, Transmisia. Tomu se pridružuju neki od prvih izlazaka na pozornicu rock-formacija Paraf, Kaos, Termiti, Let 2, Let 3 itd. Neki su izvođači u njemu tonski bilježili nastupe za žive albume, nije malo ni onih koji su tu snimali i videospotove. Među imenima koja funkcioniraju kao zaštitni znakovi gradske punk/post-punk scene, gotovo da i nema onih koji nisu zakoračili u Kružnu. To je znak njegova izravna udjela u formiranju onoga što će na hrvatskoj rock sceni biti nazvano „riječkim zvukom“. Stvorivši od takva zvuka gradski brand, punkeri su zavili u crno cijelu pop kulturu grada na Rječini. Doslovce i s radošću. Ako je stožerno mjesto njujorškog punka legendarni klub CBGB, hrvatski je CBGB upravo Palach. Dakako, Palach nije mjesto koje privlači srodne duše isključivo glazbom. U njemu su prvu sekvencu zabilježile karijere mnogih mladih gradskih likovnih umjetnika, izvođača performansa, ljubitelja kazališne i filmske prakse, modnih revija, a na svoje su došli i poklonici književne riječi. Riječ je o programima koji se odvijaju usporedo s radikalnijim umjetničkim aktivnostima, kako jučer tako i danas. Podosta o tomu govori pogled u aktualne aktivnosti u Kružnoj.

Palach became a particularly dynamic polygon of alternative art and social practices in the second half of 1970s when it opened its doors to the city’s punk movement, and more precisely, to a true punk flow and new wave that poured out onto the city streets. Groups such as Grad, Grč, Denis & Denis, Laufer, Transmisia all had their first performances in Palach. They were followed by some of the first appearances on the stage by rock formations Paraf, Kaos, Termiti, Let 2, Let3, etc. Some performers recorded their live albums there, and many of them recorded their videos there as well. Amongst the names operating as symbols of the city’s punk/post punk scene, few have not made a step inside Kružna Street. It is a sign of its direct contribution in forming the term which has, on the Croatian rock scene, been called the “Rijeka’s sound”. And from that sound creating a city brand, punks dressed from head to toe in black, the entire pop culture of the city on Rječina River. Literally and with joy. If the nerve centre of New York’s punk is the legendary CBGB Club, then Croatian's is definitely Palach Of course, Palach is not a place that only attracts soul mates with its music. There, first appearances have been made by numerous young city artists, performers, theatre and film lovers, fashion enthusiasts and even devotees of literature have achieved their moment of glory here. These are just some of the programmes that take place here together with more radical artistic activities, both in the past and today. An insight into the current activities in Kružna Street says much about that. On entering the club you are taken to one of three specialized comic-book shops in Croatia. If you make another step forward

Prvi korak u klub vodi ususret jednoj od tri specijalizirane prodavaonice stripa u Hrvatskoj. Korak naprijed i stiže se do Palachove galerije, čija je misija organiziranje izložaba domaćih i stranih, poznatih i (još bolje) nepoznatih umjetnika. Vrata do djeluje kino Palach u kojem se „vrte“ dokumentarni, glazbeni, ekološki i ostali filmovi, uključujući one iz novopokrenute Palachove produkcije. Ulaz u knjižaru, kino i galeriju je besplatan. U Palachu do kraja godine najavljuju multimedijalne festivale Krik, Ri Rock i Metalijadu. Sve se mijenja, Palach ne. Dosljedan svome imenu, Palach je trajno zborno mjesto mladih duša koje se ne mire šutke s onime što im govore roditelji, nastavnici, svećenici, policajci i političari. Zborno mjesto duša koje znaju: tko u mladosti nije bio buntovan, taj za sebe ne može reći ni da je živio.

you will reach the Palach Gallery, whose mission is to organize both national and foreign exhibitions of famous and (even better) unknown artists. In one of the rooms is the Palach cinema where documentary, music, eco and other films play including those from the newly initiated Palach production. Entrance to the library, cinema and gallery is free of charge. In Palach have been announced multimedia festivals such as Krik, Ri Rock and Metalijada until the end of this year. Whilst everything may change, Palach remains the same. Consistent with its name, Palach is a permanent meeting point for young souls who do not stand still and silent with regard to what their parents, teachers, priests, police officers and politicians have to say. A meeting point for those souls in the know: whoever has not been rebellious in their youth, cannot say he has truly lived.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić

Rijeka je domaćin tisućama studenata koji dolaze studirati iz svih krajeva Hrvatske I inozemstva Rijeka is the host for thousands of students who come to study from all parts of Croatia and from abroad

Grad krojen

po mjeri studenata

A City tailored to students Već nekoliko godina unutar Rijeke koja prema posljednjem, ovogodišnjem popisu ima 128.735 stanovnika, raste još jedan i ne tako mali grad; grad koji će u dogledno vrijeme brojati oko 20.000, uglavnom mladih ljudi ogromnog potencijala, ključnog za ubrzanje gospodarskog rasta ne samo ove regije, već cijele Hrvatske. Riječ je, dakako, o Sveučilišnom kampusu smještenom na Trsatu, u oazi mira i duhovnosti, nedaleko drugog po veličini, hrvatskog Marijanskog svetišta. U samo pet godina je u infrastrukturu, obnavljanje

For some years now, within Rijeka which, according to the latest, census has 128,735 citizens, another fair sized town is growing; this town will soon have around 20,000 mostly young inhabitants with a large potential, crucial for the acceleration of the economic growth not only of this region, but of the whole of Croatia. We are talking about the University Campus located on Trsat, in an oasis of peace and spiritualism, close to the second largest Croatian sanctuary dedicated to the Holy Virgin Mary. In just five years over 600 million kunas have been invested in the infrastructure,

objekata, hortikulturu, pješačke koridore i sve one objekte nužne za stvaranje pozitivnog ozračja i motivacije studentima uloženo više od 600 milijuna kuna. No, prije priče o tom gradu smještenom na 36.000 četvornih metara gdje se nekad nalazila Vojarna i obrazlaganja zbog čega je grad na Rječini svrstan među najpoželjnije za studiranje i to ne samo u našoj zemlji, iznesimo neke manje poznate činjenice. Jeste li znali da je Rijeka na vrhu popisa gradova koji u potpunosti udovoljavaju zakonitostima feng-shuija? Naime, majstori 6000 godina stare umjetnosti i znanosti posvećene istraživanju optimalnih uvjeta za gradnju nastamba procijenili su da baš Rijeka ima i vjetar i vodu, što je doslovan prijevod riječi feng-shui, kao i povoljan protok energije, a to je pak jedan od ključnih uvjeta za sretan i dobar život. Sve to pozitivno djeluje na stanovnike i zato su Riječani otvoreni, tolerantni i ispunjeni kozmopolitskom ljubavlju. Poznati riječki astrolog Damir Jovetić podsjeća da je Rijeka u horoskopu Lavica, s podznakom u Djevici i Mjesecom u znaku Vage. U ratnim godinama do izražaja je dolazio njezin karakter Djevice, zatvoren i stisnut, a sada se kao Vaga otvara, izlazi na ulice, postaje ljepša, prava koketa. Tomu dodaje da dolazi vrijeme ljubavi, ljepote, jahti, balova, ležernih i lepršavih susreta i komunikacije. Pod drukčijim astrološkim aspektima mijenja se i način zarade pa se umjesto industrije razvijaju poslovi povezani s otvorenim prostorima, kao što su urbani turizam, zabava, sport, umjetnost i slavljenje ljepote.

for the reconstruction of facilities, horticulture, commuter corridors and all the necessary facilities for establishing a positive atmosphere and offering motivation for students. But, before telling the story of that town located on 36,000 square metres of the former barracks and before explaining why the city on the Rječina is listed amongst the most desirable for studying and not only in Croatia, let us introduce some of the lesser known facts. Did you know that Rijeka is at the top of the list of cities with a great Feng Shui arrangement? In fact, masters of this 6,000 year old art and science dedicated to the research of optimal conditions for the construction of facilities, have evaluated that Rijeka has both the wind and water that are the literal translations of the words Feng Shui, as well as a favourable energy flow and this is one of the crucial conditions for happiness and good living. All that positively affects the people and that is why citizens of Rijeka are open-minded, tolerant and filled with cosmopolitan love. A famous Rijeka astrologist, Damir Jovetić, recalls that Rijeka’s zodiac sign is Leo, with the ascendant in Virgo, whilst its Moon sign is Libra. During the war years, its Virgo character was expressed, reserved and withdrawn, and it is currently being opened as Libra, on the streets, becoming more beautiful, like a true coquette. This is constituted by the fact that the period of love, beauty, yachts, balls, casual and flirty meetings and communication arrived. Under different astrological aspects, the means of earning is under change so that instead of industry, jobs connected to open areas such as urban tourism, entertainment, sport, art and the celebration of beauty have been developed.

Sveučilište za nove generacije

A University for the new generation

Vratimo se Sveučilištu, točnije njegovom 48-godišnjem rektoru prof.dr.sc. Peri Lučinu, dosad najmlađem čelnom čovjeku ove institucije čiji su dijelovi radova, nakon studija medicine i doktorata iz područja medicinskih znanosti u 29oj godini, u svjetskoj biomedicinskoj literaturi citirani više od 1.700 puta. Svojim svakodnevnim djelovanjem rektor dokazuje vjeru u studente, smatrajući ih najvećim inovacijskim potencijalom društva koji se još uvijek slabo koristi, pa stoga kontinuirano radi na pokretanju sistemskih promjena koje će naglasiti taj potencijal, a riječko Sveučilište svrstati među 500 najboljih u Europi. No, globalna recesija odrazila se i na dinamiku izgradnje kampusa u Rijeci. Rektor se, međutim, nada da će dijelom i sredstvima europskih fondova do 2017. godine biti dovršena prva faza izgradnje, točnije prioritetni objekti studentskog smještaja te Sveučilišna knjižnica. Rektor Lučin, svjestan izazova novoga doba, odlučan je u namjeri transformacije sveučilišta, nastojeći stvoriti fleksibilnu i dinamičnu organizaciju. „Još uvijek smo jedino hrvatsko Sveučilište koje ima sveobuhvatnu Strategiju razvoja. Formirali smo sustav za osiguranje kvalitete, osnovali četiri sveučilišna odjela i nekoliko sveučilišnih centara. Centar za EU projekte se priprema za nastup u EU-u, studentski zbor se transformirao u integrirajući čimbenik Sveučilišta, a Sveučilišni športski savez u sportskim aktivnostima okuplja više od 2.000 studenata. Oformljeni su Znanstveno-tehnološki park i Ured za transfer tehnologije, osnovana je Zaklada Sveučilišta i riznica za stipendiranje i kreditiranje studenata. Standardi studiranja su znatno

And now let’s go back to the University, more precisely, to its 48 year old university head, professor and PhD in science, Pero Lučin, currently the youngest head of this institution whose areas of work, following his degree in medicine and his PhD in medical sciences at the age of 29, have been cited over 1,700 times in biomedical literature fields. With his daily activities, the university head proves his faith in his students, by considering them the greatest innovation potential of society which is still not used enough. He works continuously in order to initiate systematic changes which will point out that potential, as well as listing the University of Rijeka among the 500 best in Europe. However, the global recession has reflected on the dynamic of campus construction in Rijeka. The university head hopes that, partly and with the support of European funds, the first phase of construction will be terminated by 2017, that is, the priority facilities of

unaprijeđeni, a pravila studiranja ujednačena. Na Sveučilištu su pokrenuti programi cjeloživotnog obrazovanja i fleksibilni načini učenja. Više od polovice nastavnika održava e-kolegije. Započinje se sa stvaranjem međunarodnih programa, a u posljednjih deset godina istraživačke aktivnosti su utrostručene“, kazao je Lučin. Mnogi se pitaju kako bi trebala izgledati tranformacija grada u kojem je Sveučilište nositelj procesa transformacije, na što rektor odgovara da je i Rijeka, poput mnogih drugih europskih gradova suočena s činjenicom da industrijska era nestaje, praćena odumiranjem velikog broja poduzeća koja su svoje poslovanje temeljila na industriji sredine 20. st. i premještanjem u dijelove svijeta gdje je radna snaga jeftinija. Stoga se cijela Europa nastoji prilagoditi i preurediti svoje industrijske politike prema zahtjevima globalizacijske ere, a to znači, naglašava Lučin, veliko ulaganje u istraživanja, inovacije i obrazovanje građana kako bi se stvorilo dovoljno ljudi i znanja koji mogu pokretati poslove s visokom dodanom vrijednošću.

Nove snage u dolasku Rektor očekuje osnivanje sve većeg broja poduzeća koja će studenti pokrenuti i prije dovršetka studija, kao i sve veći broj netradicionalnih studenata; građana koji već sada u velikom broju dolaze na Sveučilište i upisuju programe cjeloživotnog obrazovanja s ciljem lakše prilagodbe tržištu rada. No, sveučilište ne doprinosi gradu samo stvaranjem temelja za privređivanje, već je i važan intelektualni i kulturni

student accommodation as well as the University Library. The University head, Lučin, aware of the challenges of the new era, is determined with his intention to transform the University and create a flexible and dynamic organisation. “We are still the only Croatian University with an overall development strategy. We have formed a system to ensure quality; we have founded four university departments and several university centres. A Centre for EU projects is being set up for its emergence in the EU, the student assembly has changed into an integrative factor of the University itself and the University Sport Association brings together over 2,000 students within its sport activities. A Scientific and technological park has also been formed as well as an Office for technology transfer, the University Foundation and Treasury has been founded to award scholarships and to grant credit to students. Studying standards have been significantly developed and studying regulations have been standardized. Numerous programs for whole-life education and flexible ways of studying at the University have been initiated. Over half of the professors hold e-courses. International programmes have been created, and over the last ten years, research activities have been tripled", said Lučin. Many people ask themselves how the transformation of a town should look in which the University is the bearer of the transformation process, and the University replies that Rijeka, like many other European cities, is faced with the fact that the industrial era is disappearing and that is being followed by the closure of numerous industry-based companies in the middle of 20th century and on their moving to other parts of the world where the work force is cheaper. That is why Europe as a whole is trying to adapt and change its industrial politics according to the requests posed by the globalisation era which means, Lučin points out, that there will be greater investments in research, innovation and the education of citizens so as to create enough people and knowledge to initiate businesses with a high added value.

Arrival of new forces The university head expects an increase in the number of companies initiated by students even before finishing their studies, as well as an increasing number of non-traditional students; citizens who have already come in large number to the University and enrolled themselves in whole-life education programmes in order to adapt more easily to the labour market. However, the university does not only contribute to the city by creating a base for earning, but is also an important intellectual and cultural influence of professors and students as well as a dynamic backdrop where numerous new initiatives can be found. Besides others, University head Lučin thinks about the fact that today 2/3 of high school pupils continue their post-secondary education, to which they will also have to adapt as we are talking about new generations who have grown up with technology, media and intense communication. “They have developed a series of skills that have changed the process of teaching. They are aware that information cannot be the main purpose of studying at university as all information is within their reach. They know that the world is a dynamic place, and that it changes quickly and they try to adapt to that fact. It seems they are developing a different system of values as well. All of that represents a greater challenge for professors where a traditional programme of education is noticeable, with regard to the content or the means of implementation,

utjecaj nastavnika i studenata, kao i dinamično okruženje u kojem se rađa pregršt novih inicijativa. Između ostalog, rektor Lučin uvelike promišlja i o činjenici da danas visokoškolsko obrazovanje nastavlja 2/3 srednjoškolaca čemu se također potrebno prilagoditi, jer je riječ o novim generacijama koje su odrasle uz tehnologiju, medije i intenzivno komuniciranje. „Oni su razvili niz vještina koje mijenjaju proces učenja. Svjesni su da informacija ne može biti glavni cilj učenja na sveučilištu jer su im sve informacije nadohvat ruke. Znaju da je svijet vrlo dinamičan, da se brzo mijenja i nastoje se tome prilagoditi. Čini mi se da razvijaju i drukčiji sustav vrijednosti. Sve to predstavlja veliki izazov profesorima, pri čemu se uočava da tradicionalni programi obrazovanja niti svojim sadržajem ni načinom provedbe više ne odgovaraju potrebama tih ljudi“, dodaje rektor Lučin. Na upit koji su najveći aduti grada izuzetno poželjnog za studentski život, rektor navodi da je Rijeka grad u kojem se u mnogim aspektima miješaju Mediteran i srednja Europa, uključujući i kulturu odnosno ponašanje ljudi. Na riječkom Sveučilištu se već sada drukčije studira; programi se neprestano moderniziraju, a očekuje se još veći broj međunarodnih studenata i uspješnih istraživača zbog kojih ljudi dolaze u grad na Rječini. Riječani često znaju reći da „onaj tko se napije riječke vode, teško odlazi iz ovoga grada“, a da je tomu uistinu tako svjedoče i mnogi od 8000 studenata koji nakon završenog fakulteta odluče ostati živjeti u Rijeci. Puno je čari kojima ovaj grad zavodi, a na tebi je, dragi čitatelju, da ih sam otkriješ. Mi smo Ti tek odškrinuli vrata...

that do not match the needs of these people”, University head, Lučin adds. When we asked him which were the city’s strongest advantages in being desirable for student life, he answered that Rijeka is a city where the Mediterranean and central Europe mix in many aspects, including culture, that is, people’s behaviour. At the University of Rijeka studying is already a different process; programmes are constantly modernized and an increasing number of international students and successful researchers are expected and that this is the reason why people choose to come to the city on the Rječina River. Rijeka citizens often used to say that “he who drinks Rijeka’s water, will hardly ever leave the city”, and this is true as proved by many of the 8,000 students who after finishing their studies decide to stay and live in Rijeka. There are a number of miracles by which this city seduces, and it is up to you, dear reader, to discover them on your own. We have only opened the door slightly for you...

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Kim Cuculić Fotografije / Photos: GKL Rijeka / Rijeka City Puppet Theatre

Pedeset godina Gradskog kazališta lutaka Rijeka i predstave "Veli Jože"

Fiftieth anniversary of the Rijeka City Puppet Theatre and the show "Veli Jože"

Kuća u kojoj lutke

(ne) spavaju

The House where puppets do (not) sleep

Mnoga riječka djetinjstva obilježili su i uljepšali odlasci u Gradsko kazalište lutaka Rijeka. Posljednjih pedeset godina adresa je uvijek ista - Blaža Polića 6, a riječ je o najmlađem od pet profesionalnih hrvatskih lutkarskih kazališta. Prolazak kroz vrata riječkog kazališta lutaka ulaz je u neki drugi svijet, svijet u kojem caruju mašta i kreativnost. Kuća je to u kojoj stanuju lutke, čudesna bića kojima ništa nije nemoguće. Gradsko kazalište lutaka Rijeka dom je lutaka, a u toj kući lutke spavaju samo noću. A možda ni tad, nego poput Petra Pana izvode djecu na letove beskonačnim prostranstvima mašte. Premda povijest lutkarstva u Rijeci i Sušaku seže u razdoblje između dvaju svjetskih ratova, Kazalište lutaka Rijeka službeno je osnovano 1960. godine. Prije toga su odrađene dvije neslužbene sezone, a zatim je rješenjem Narodnog odbora riječke općine „Stari grad“, 29. ožujka 1960. službeno potvrđeno utemeljenje Kazališta lutaka Rijeka. Predstave su se održavale u Narodnom muzeju, današnjoj Guvernerovoj palači, te u zgradi Nebodera. Službeno otvorenje stalne pozornice Kazališta lutaka u Ulici Blaža Polića (bivšem kinu „Odeon“) na Brajdi, obilježeno je premijernom izvedbom predstave „Veli Jože“ Vladimira Nazora, 23. travnja 1961. U siječnju 1993. ukida se Kazalište lutaka Rijeka i osniva Gradsko kazalište lutaka Rijeka. Spomenimo i to da je poznati riječki slikar Vladimir Udatny autor prvog službenog kazališnog znaka (naziv „Domino“ bio je vezan uz Udatnyjevu sliku „Harlekin u Veneciji - Arno“). U proljeće 1995. nastao je novi kazališni službeni znak čiji je autor umjetnik Bruno Paladin, a započelo se i s rekonstrukcijom kazališne zgrade (arhitekt Ognjen Jurin). Dodajmo i to da likovni umjetnik Vojo Radoičić u ovom trenutku radi na izradi svečanog kazališnog zastora za riječko lutkarsko kazalište. Važnu obljetnicu pola stoljeća svoga djelovanja, Gradsko kazalište lutaka Rijeka zaokružilo je monografijom autorice Maje Verdonik, koja prati povijest lutkarstva u Rijeci od 1920. godine sve do današnjih dana. Vrijedan je to izvor podataka, kao i podsjetnik na sve umjetnike i djelatnike riječkog kazališta lutaka koji su dali svoj doprinos i obilježili 50. godina njegova postojanja. Povodom ovog značajnog jubileja, u riječkom Malom salonu postavljena je i izložba „Gdje lutke (ne) spavaju“. Posljednje desetljeće djelovanja Gradskog kazališta lutaka Rijeka označeno je kao vrijeme otvorenosti svijetu i 21. stoljeću. Za ovo razdoblje karakteristični su raznolikost redateljskih pristupa,

Numerous Rijeka childhoods have been marked and embellished by going to the Rijeka City Puppet Theatre. For the last fifty years the address has remained the same – Blaža Polića 6, and we are talking about the youngest of the five professional Croatian Puppet Theatres. Passing through the doors of the Rijeka Puppet Theatre you enter another world, a world where the imagination and creativity rule. It is the house where puppets live, magical creatures for which nothing is impossible. The Rijeka City Puppet Theatre is a home for puppets and there puppets only sleep during the night. And maybe not even then, but like Peter Pan they take the children for a flight over the areas of eternal imagination. Although the history of puppets in Rijeka and Sušak dates back to the period between two world wars, the Rijeka Puppet Theatre was officially founded in 1960. Before that two unofficial seasons were worked and then, based on the Municipality of Rijeka’s Popular Board called “Stari grad”, on 29th March 1960, the foundation of Rijeka Puppets Theatre was officially approved. The shows took place in the Popular Museum, the present Governor’s Palace as well as in the Neboder building. The official opening of the permanent stage of the Puppet Theatre in Blaža Polića Street (formerly the “Odeon” cinema) on Brajda, was celebrated by the premiere performance of Vladimir Nazor’s show “Veli Jože” on 23rd April 1961. In January 1993 the Rijeka Puppet Theatre was abolished and in its place the Rijeka City Puppet Theatre was founded. Let us mention that the famous Rijeka painter, Vladimir Udatny, is the author of the first official theatre logo (the name “Domino” was connected to Udatny’s painting “Harlequin in Venice - Arno”). In spring of 1995 a new official logo was created whose author was the artist, Bruno Paladin. In the same period reconstruction began of the theatre building by architect Ognjen Jurin. May we add the fact that fine arts artist Vojo Radoičić is currently working on the creation of a ceremonial theatre drop curtain for the Rijeka Puppet Theatre. This important fiftieth anniversary of the Rijeka City Puppet Theatre is surrounded by a monography by Maja Verdonik which follows the history of puppets in Rijeka since 1920 until the present day. It is a valuable source of data as well as a reminder of all the artists and employees of the Rijeka Puppet Theatre which has contributed and marked the 50 years of its existence. To celebrate this important jubilee, the exhibition called “Where puppets do (not) sleep” was collocated in Rijeka’s Mali salon.

repertoara i lutkarskih tehnika animacije, kao i zanimljivi lutkarski eksperimenti. Jedna od najizvođenijih predstava je „Ježeva kućica“. Ova omiljena dječja priča u stihovima Branka Ćopića izvedena je kao mjuzikl u režiji i scenskoj prilagodbi Sande Miladinov Langerholz. Glumica-lutkarica Karin Fröhlich je na Naj, naj, naj festivalu nagrađena za najbolju žensku ulogu u „Ježevoj kućici“. Dugogodišnji je suradnik Gradskog kazališta lutaka slovenski redatelj Edi Majaron koji je u novije vrijeme režirao „Sve o Žaklinama“ i „Malu vješticu“. Gost iz Petrograda bio je svestran umjetnik, lutkar Alexander Maximychev koji je „Damjanovo jezero" postavio u iznimno

The last ten years of the Rijeka City Puppet Theatre work was marked as a period of openness towards the world and towards the 21st century. For this period the various directors’ approaches, repertoires and puppets animation techniques as well as the interesting experiments with puppets is characteristic. One of the most performed shows is “Ježeva kućica” (The Hedgehog’s House). This favourite children’s story in verses written by Branko Ćopić was performed as a musical and directed and adapted by Sanda Miladinov Langerholz. The puppet-actress Karin Fröhlich was awarded a prize for the best woman’s act in the „Hedhehog's House“ at the Naj, naj, naj Festival. A Slovenian director, Edi Majaron has been a collaborator of the City Puppet Theatre for many years and recently he directed the shows “Sve o Žaklinama” (All about Žakline) and “Mala vještica” (A small witch). A guest from St. Petersburg was the all-rounder Alexander Maximychev who set the “Damjanovo jezero” (Damjan’s lake) using an extremely demanding puppet technique. Several shows have been directed by Lary Zappia as well. In his multiple awarded "Šuma Striborova" (Stribor’s Forest), instead of traditional puppets there were animated objects: a boy represented by an axe, a mother by a flax cloth, and a black leather belt represented the viper daughter-in-law. May we point out that the puppet-actress Božena Delaš won the Croatian actors’ award for the role of the mother in “Stribor's forest”. Zappia’s “Romeo (and Juliette)” is a show that was forbidden for children under the age of 14 which was an important step forward with regard to accepting puppets shows which are often considered to be exclusively dedicated to children. Larry Zappia’s “Slavuj” (Nightingale) too was an interesting show where the

zahtjevnoj tehnici marioneta. Nekoliko režija potpisuje i Lary Zappia. U njegovoj višestruko nagrađivanoj „Šumi Striborovoj“, umjesto tradicionalnih lutaka animirani su predmeti: momka je predstavljala sjekira, majku lanena tkanina, a crni kožnati remen snahu guju. Istaknimo i to da je glumica lutkarica Božena Delaš za ulogu majke u „Šumi Striborovoj“ dobila Nagradu hrvatskoga glumišta. Zappijin „Romeo (i Giulietta)“ je predstava koja je bila zabranjena mlađima od 14 godina, što je bio važan iskorak na planu prihvaćanja lutkarskih predstava, često shvaćanih kao isključivo namijenjenih djeci. Bio je zanimljiv i „Slavuj“ Laryja Zappije, koji se u ovoj predstavi poigrao ping-pong lopticama kao elementima animacije. Kao novo redateljsko ime u lutkarstvu pojavljuje se Saša Anočić koji je režirao također nagrađivane predstave „Pustolovine Toma Sawyera“ i "Gulliver u zemlji malih ljudi“. Autorski tandem Žak Valenta i Magdalena Lupi potpisao je predstave „Moje tijelo“ i „Cirkus Klaunovski“. U ovom razdoblju režirali su i Zoran Mužić, Robert Waltl, Zvonko Festini, Serđo Dlačić, Zlatko Sviben, Vladimir Zajic. Glumci lutkari u prednosti su u odnosi na ostale glumce, jer zahvaljujući tome što mogu udahnuti život lutkama i oni sami mogu postati što god požele. Za ulogu u predstavi „Sedan kozlini i samo jedan bedni vuk“ Alex Đaković je na SLUK-u nagrađen za najbolju animaciju i glumačku kreaciju. Za najbolju animaciju Huckleberryja Finna, glumica lutkarica Almira Štifanić dobila je nagrade na SLUK-u i PIF-u. Uloga Petra Pana donijela je sreću Davidu Petroviću koji je na PIF-u nagrađen za najbolju mušku ulogu. Po stažu je Anđelko Somborski jedan od najstarijih članova riječkog lutkarskog ansambla, a trenutačno su nove snage Dina Đuka

director played with ping-pong balls as elements of animation. Saša Anočić appears as a new director in puppet theatre and directed the award-winning shows “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer” and “Gulliver in the land of Lilliput”. The author duo Žak Valenta and Magdalena Lupi signed shows “Moje tijelo” (My body) and “Circus Klaunovski” (Clown’s Circus). Recently the role of director has also been taken by Zoran Mužić, Robert Waltl, Zvonko Festini, Serđo Dlačić, Zlatko Sviben, Vladimir Zajic. Puppet-actors have an advantage compared to other actors thanks to the fact that they can breathe life into their puppets and become whatever they want. For the role in the show „Sedan kozlini i samo jedan bedni vuk“ (Seven young kids and only one poor wolf), Alex Đaković was awarded for the best animation and actors' creation by the Reunion of puppeteers and

i Vedran Komerički. Nezaobilazna je i kreatorica lutaka, slikarica i tehnolog Luči Vidanović.

50 godina Velog Jože Dosad najnagrađivanija predstava Gradskog kazališta lutaka je „Nadpodstolar Martin" redatelja Renea Medvešeka, koji je na 50. obljetnicu otvaranja stalne pozornice iznova postavio Nazorova „Velog Jožu". Davne 1961. istarsku priču „Veli Jože“ režirao je Dragan Blažeković, sa scenografijom Vladimira Udatnyja i s glumcem Narodnog kazališta „Ivan Zajc“ Željkom Frelićem u naslovnoj ulozi. „Veli Jože" je postavljan još u dva navrata - 1968. u režiji Berislava Brajkovića i 1976. u režiji Vlade Vukmirovića - tako da je Medvešekova predstava četvrto uprizorenje. Lik istarskoga kmeta Velog Jože sada je utjelovio Zlatko Vicić, a predstava se temelji na animaciji tkanina, dijelova starinskih predmeta i košara od pruća. Interesantna je i jezična dimenzija - divovi govore čakavskim idiomom, građani Motovuna standardnim hrvatskim jezikom, likovi Mlečana stilizacijom fijumanskog govora, a zmaj arhaičnim jezikom s elementima starohrvatskog. I najnoviji „Veli Jože“, baš kao i neke druge predstave, potvrđuju da su riječki lutkari od samih početaka neprekidno istraživali nove mogućnosti. Vrlo često je upravo Gradsko kazalište lutaka Rijeka prepoznato među hrvatskim lutkarskim kazalištima kao ono koje prednjači u istraživanju novih vidova lutkarskih izraza. Prateći domaća i svjetska strujanja u lutkarstvu, kazalište lutaka u Rijeci predano gradi svoj scenski

Prolazak kroz vrata riječkog kazališta lutaka ulaz je u neki drugi svijet, svijet u kojem caruju mašta i kreativnost. Kuća je to u kojoj stanuju lutke, čudesna bića kojima ništa nije nemoguće. Gradsko kazalište lutaka Rijeka dom je lutaka, a u toj kući lutke spavaju samo noću. A možda ni tad, nego poput Petra Pana izvode djecu na letove beskonačnim prostranstvima mašte. Passing through the doors of the Rijeka Puppet Theatre you enter another world, a world where the imagination and creativity rule. It is the house where puppets live, magical creatures for which nothing is impossible. The Rijeka City Puppet Theatre is a home for puppets and there puppets only sleep during the night. And maybe not even then, but like Peter Pan they take the children for a flight over the areas of eternal imagination. Croatian Puppet Theatres. Actress Almira Štifanić won awards from the Reunion of puppeteers and Croatian Puppet Theatres and at the PIF Festival for best animation of Huckleberry Finn. The role of Peter Pan brought luck to David Petrović who was awarded best male role at PIF. With regard to years of service, Anđelko Somoborski is one of the oldest members of the Rijeka puppets ensemble, and new forces are currently Dina Đuka and Vedran Komerički. We also must not fail to mention the puppet creator, painter and technologist, Luči Vidanović.

50 years of Veli Jože The most award-winning show of the City Puppet Theatre is by now “Nadpostolar Martin” (Martin, the super shoe maker) directed by Rene Medvešek who to celebrate the fiftieth anniversary, will be opening the permanent stage set of Nazor’s “Veli Joža”. In ancient 1961, the Istrian story “Veli Jože” was directed by Dragan Blažeković and set by Vladimir Udatny and the main role was played by Željko Frelić, an actor from the "Ivan pl. Zajc" Croatian National Theatre. “Veli Jože” was set twice more – in 1968 directed by Berislav Brajković and in 1976 by Vlado Vukmirović – so that Medvešek’s show is the fourth staging of the show. The character of Istrian farmer Veli Jože is now played by Zlatko Vicić, and the show is based on the animation of cloths, parts of ancient objects and baskets made of brushwood. The linguistic dimension is also rather interesting - giants speak in the Chakavian dialect, Motovun citizens in the standard Croatian language, Venetians speak a kind of Fiumano (Rijeka dialect), and the dragon uses an archaic language with elements from an old Croatian language. The latest “Veli Jože” show, just as other shows, proves that Rijeka’s puppeteers have been continuously searching for new possibilities since their beginnings. Very often precisely the Rijeka City Puppet Theatre has been recognised amongst Croatian Puppet Theatres as the one leading the way of research into new forms of puppet expression. By following Croatian and world puppet trends, the theatre in Rijeka diligently creates its scene expression recognized both by the profession and the public alike. Besides the shows of their own puppet theatre, Rijeka children impatiently expect the Puppet Theatre Review each year.

izraz koji prepoznaju i struka i publika. Osim predstava svoga lutkarskoga kazališta, riječki mališani svake godine s nestrpljenjem iščekuju i Reviju lutkarskih kazališta. Nezaboravan je i svjetski kongres UNIMA-e održan 2004. u Rijeci. Aktualna ravnateljica GKL-a je Zrinka Kolak-Fabijan, dobitnica Nagrade Grada Rijeke za iznimna umjetnička i organizacijska postignuća. Ona ističe da je riječko kazalište lutaka po kvadraturi, ali i po broju glumaca, najmanje kazalište. S obzirom na uvjete djelovanja, postoji ideja da se kazalište lutaka premjesti u zgradu tržnice na Brajdi, za što je izrađen i projekt, no zasad su jedno želje a drugo mogućnosti. Stoga je velika želja riječkih lutkara novi dom za njihove lutke, a u planu je i dokumentarni film o Gradskom kazalištu lutaka Rijeka - malom kazalištu za male u kojemu podjednako uživaju i veliki.

The UNIMA world congress, which took place in Rijeka in 2004 is also an unforgettable event. The current director of the theatre, Zrinka Kolak-Fabijan is a winner of the City of Rijeka Award for excellent artistic and organizational achievements. She points out that, with regard to the dimensions and number of actors, the Rijeka Puppet Theatre is the smallest one. Taking into consideration the conditions in which the theatre operates, the idea exists that puppet theatre will move to the market building on Brajda for which was designed the project, but for now wishes are one thing and possibilities are something completely different. Hence the great desire of the Rijeka puppeteers is a new home for their puppets. They are also planning to make a film about the Rijeka City Puppet Theatre - a small theatre for young people in which both adults and children may enjoy themselves in the same way.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža

Biennale Kvadrilaterale

Quadrilateral Biennale

Aludiranje na političke i ideološke sfere kustoski je koncept ovogodišnjeg „Biennala Kvadrilaterale“ čija izložba u šestoj godini organiziranja, od 11. studenoga do 23. prosinca ove godine u riječkom Muzeju moderne i suvremene umjetnosti nosi naziv „Niotkuda - Out of Left Field“. Podsjetimo da je Bijenale stvoren 2005. godine s fokusom na suvremene umjetničke prakse Hrvatske, Italije, Mađarske i Slovenije. Voditeljica projekta, Ksenija Oreb, navodi da naziv ovogodišnje izložbe potječe iz američke fraze – out of left field – koja potječe iz bejzbola, a znači iznenada, iz neočekivanog izvora ili smjera. Na isti način, kustoski koncept za ovaj Bijenale nastoji ukazati na taj element iznenađenja. Predstavljeni umjetnici usmjereni su na oponašanje strategije nesvrstanosti, pri čemu se, počevši s najjačom individualnošću, uspostavlja mogućnost koegzistencije. Umjetnici predstavljaju radove u svim medijima putem snažnog dijaloga s umjetnošću performansa. Oreb dodaje da današnji performeri nastavljaju postavljati kritička pitanja o prikupljanju, primanju i očuvanju efemernih radova: kako suvremena umjetnost 21. stoljeća naručuje, izlaže i čuva takva djela? Kako se radikalne prakse, koje često nadahnjuju performere, mogu prikazati u muzejskom i galerijskom kontekstu? Kako promjenjiva uloga umjetničke institucije kao živoga kulturnog središta utječe na oblikovanje predodžaba umjetnika o performansu? Može li „muzejski održiv“ performans ostati radikalan i provokativan poput pionirskih performansa sedamdesetih, organiziranih izvan institucionalnog konteksta? Izložba je zamišljena kao dinamički narativ koji sažima različite strategije performansa, a one prevode njegovu prolaznu prirodu u instalacije, filmove, videozapise i fotografije. Svakim novim izdanjem mijenja se struktura i koncepcija Bijenala; raste sagledavanjem svoga regionalnog fokusa u široj međunarodnoj i multilateralnoj slici te propitivanjem svojih veza s konkretnim okruženjem, Rijekom kao gradom domaćinom, lokalnom publikom i umjetničkom scenom.

Allusion to political and ideological spheres is the custodian concept of this years’ “Quadrilateral Biennale”, and the 6th organized exhibition is taking place from 11th November until 23rd December 2011 in the Rijeka Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art under the name of "Out of the Field". May we remind you that the Biennale was created in 2005 focusing on the modern artistic practice of Croatia, Italy, Hungary and Slovenia. Ksenija Oreb, the project manager informs us that the name of this years’ exhibition comes from the American phrase – out of left field – typical to baseball and means suddenly, from an unexpected source or direction. In the same way, the custodian concept for this Biennale has tried to indicate this element of surprise. Represented artists have been directed to imitate the strategy of nonalignment during which, starting from the strongest individuality, the possibility of coexistence is established. Artists present their works in all media through strong dialogue and with their art to perform. Oreb adds that today’s performers continue to establish critical questions with regard to bringing together, accepting and preserving ephemeral works: how does 21st century contemporary art order, exhibit and preserve this kind of work? How can radical practices, which often inspire performers, be represented within a museum and gallery context? How does the transformable role of the artistic institution as a living cultural centre influence the formation of the artist’s idea with regard to performance? Can the “museum’s sustainable” performance remain radical and provocative like the pioneer performances from the seventies, organized outside the institutional context? The exhibition has been imagined as a dynamic narrative that summarizes a variety of performance strategies, turning its temporary nature into installations, films, video registrations and photographs. With each new edition, the Biennale changes its structure and conception; it develops by observing its regional focus in a wider international and multilateral image as well as questioning its links with competitive surroundings, Rijeka as a host city, local public and the art scene.

Pritom Muzej postaje prostor testiranja odnosa institucije, umjetnosti i publike, afirmacije i negacije postojećih vrijednosti, artikulirajući aktualne poglede na institucionalna ograničenja, ali različitih načina na koji bi im se moglo odoljeti.

At the same time, the Museum becomes an area of testing the relationship between the institution, art and the public, a place of affirmation and negation of existing values by means of the articulation of current views over institutional limitations, but in a variety of ways in which they could be overcome too.

Među umjetnicima koji će se ovom prigodom predstaviti u Rijeci su: Milijana Babić, Davide Balliano, Paolo Canevari, Lilibeth Cuenca Rasmussen, Joan Jonas, Maria Jose Arjona, Marta Jovanović, Anna Fabricius, Albert Heta, Vlatka Horvat, Sanja Iveković, Božena Končić Badurina, Nika Oblak i Primož Novak, Jenny Perlin, Ana Prvacki, Vladimir Nikolić, Sandra Sterle, Nebojša Šerić – Šoba i Jelena Tomašević.

Amongst the artists presenting themselves on this occasion in Rijeka are: Milijana Babić, Davide Balliano, Paolo Canevari, Lilibeth Cuenca Rasmussen, Joan Jonas, Maria Jose Arjona, Marta Jovanović, Anna Fabricius, Albert Heta, Vlatka Horvat, Sanja Iveković, Božena Končić Badurina, Nika Oblak and Primož Novak, Jenny Perlin, Ana Prvacki, Vladimir Nikolić, Sandra Sterle, Nebojša Šerić – Šoba and Jelena Tomašević.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Lidija Šušak Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić

U Muzeju Grada Rijeke, glagoljica na dosad neviđen način The Glagolitic alphabet presented in an unseen way at the Rijeka City Museum

Svjetlo staklene glagoljice The light of the glass glagolitic alphabet Staro hrvatsko pismo postoji više od tisuću godina, a uvijek je iznova inspiracija umjetnicima. Glagoljica se dosad slavila na razne načine, no da staro pismo može biti novo i drugačije, do kraja mjeseca studenoga mogu se uvjeriti Riječani i njihovi gosti koji imaju priliku 33 slova uglate glagoljice vidjeti na jedinstven način. Željka i Boris Rogić su u Muzeju Grada Rijeke postavili izložbu glagoljice pod nazivom Svjetlost glagoljice gdje glagoljica po prvi puta u Hrvatskoj svijetli u staklu.

The ancient Croatian alphabet is more than thousand years old and has always been an inspiration for artists. The Glagolitic alphabet has been celebrated in a number of ways, but the fact that an ancient letter can appear in a new and different form can be seen by Rijeka citizens and their guests until the end of November. They will have the chance to see 33 letters of the angular Glagolitic alphabet in a unique way. Željka and Boris Rogić have collocated the Glagolitic alphabet exhibition under the name of the Light of Glagolitic alphabet at the Rijeka City Museum where this script glows in dark for the first time in Croatia. The authors had only one objective - to present a different Glagolitic alphabet to the public for which they used "their own" material – glass. With various art techniques and skills, they have imprinted the Glagolitic letters into the glass. Their letters have been collocated on installations and art objects as well as on usable objects, such as lamps, watches, a variety of boxes and other such things which may soon become new Rijeka souvenirs. Rogić artists are known for their creation of Tiffany lamps, and have taken a step forward from their past work with this

Cilj autora bio je samo jedan - publici prikazati drugačiju glagoljicu, za što su koristili „svoj“ materijal – staklo. Slova glagoljice su različitim likovnim tehnikama i vještinama urezivali u staklo. Slova su postavili na instalacije i umjetničke objekte, ali i na uporabne predmete, svjetiljke, satove, razne kutije i sl. koji bi ubrzo mogli postati novi riječki suveniri. Umjetnici Rogić, poznati po izradi Tiffanyjevih svjetiljki, ovom su izložbom učinili iskorak od svog dosadašnjeg rada. Izložba Svjetlost glagoljice njihova je osma izložba, a nadovezuje se na izložbu održanu pred 11 godina u Muzeju Grada Rijeke. Tema je tada bila istostranični trokut kao simbol kršćanstva, a cijeli je projekt bio zamišljen kao „misterij trokuta“. Na ovoj su izložbi svoju projekciju glagoljskog pisma smjestili u piramidu, doživjevši pritom slova kao „riznicu piramide“. U prizemlju muzeja izloženo je 99 slika u osvijetljenim aluminijskim okvirima dok slova u njima predstavljaju krnje piramide. Njihova je zadaća odvesti posjetioce na kat muzeja gdje je postavljena velika piramida optočena pločicama na kojima se nalaze slova glagoljice. Izložbu je otvorio akademik Josip Bratulić, a kako je napisao u katalogu „...nova glagoljska slova koja su izašla iz laboratorija Rogićevih su veselija, prozračna i neobična." Mi ćemo nadodati, jednostavno vas pozivaju da ih dođete pogledati.

exhibition. The Glagolitic alphabet light exhibition is their eighth exhibition and it is actually a continuation of an exhibition that took place at the Rijeka City Museum 11 years ago. The theme then was the equilateral triangle as a symbol of Christianity and the entire project was conceived as a “triangle mystery”. At this exhibition they have collocated their projection of the Glagolitic alphabet in the form of a pyramid whilst at the same time experimenting letters as a “pyramid thesaurus”. 99 images in enlightened aluminium frames are exhibited on the museum's ground floor whilst the letters inside the frames present a truncated pyramid. Their task is to take visitors to the museum’s upper floor where a large pyramid mounted with tiles on which Glagolitic alphabet letters have been placed is collocated. The exhibition was opened by academic, Josip Bratulić, who wrote in the catalogue “...new Glagolitic letters produced from Rogić’s laboratory are more cheerful, translucent and unusual.” We will add that they simply cry out for you to come in and look at them.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Mašenka Vukadinović Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić

Prelazeći most kao da nešto odvlači našu pozornost, provocira misli, možda nas vuče da zastanemo i osjetimo trenutak

Whilst crossing one, something may attract our attention, provoking our thoughts and persuading us to pause and consider for a moment

Ljudi i

mostovi

People and bridges

Pred mostovima je teško ostati ravnodušan. Prelazeći most kao da nešto odvlači našu pozornost, provocira misli, možda nas vuče da zastanemo i osjetimo trenutak. Nisu slučajno toliki mostovi bili nepresušno nadahnuće. Oslikana su i opjevana i ona raskošna čuda suvremene arhitekture, ali i one male, neugledne pješačke premosnice. Prisjetimo se impresionističkih prizora s platna Moneta ili Van Gogha, ali svakako i mudrih Andrićevih riječi u romanu „Na Drini ćuprija“. Podsjećaju na to da je ljudski vijek, kad ga se usporedi s mostom, gotovo i beznačajan. A ljudi su uvijek uspoređivali život s mostom. U onom sjetnom ozračju, da je „najteža stvar u životu znati koje mostove treba prijeći, a koje spaliti“. Linijom emocija, da se „beznačajne riječi, dugi pogledi i nesvjesni osmijesi povezuju u most koji se sam gradi“. Ili pak onaj čeličniji stav legendarnog njujorškoga gradonačelnika, nekadašnjeg američkog konzula u Rijeci, Fiorella la Guardie koji kaže: „Nema razlike ako spalim mostove iza sebe. Ja se nikada ne povlačim.“

It is difficult to remain indifferent in front of a bridge. Whilst crossing one, something may attract our attention, provoking our thoughts and persuading us to pause and consider for a moment. It is no coincidence that so many bridges have been an unfailing inspiration. They have been painted and sung: both the gorgeous miracles of contemporary architecture and those small, unsightly, commuter passages. Let’s remember impressionist scenes from canvases by Monet or Van Gogh. As well as the wise words by Andrić in his novel “Na Drini ćuprija”. They are a reminder that compared to a bridge the human lifespan is almost insignificant. And people have been always comparing life to bridges. In that melancholic atmosphere, the “toughest decision in life is to know which bridges should be crossed and which should be burned”. And considering emotions “that insignificant words, long looks and ignorant smiles connect with a self constructing bridge”. Or the tougher attitude of the legendary New York mayor, a former American consul to Rijeka, Fiorello la Guardia, who said: “It makes no difference if I burn my bridges behind me. I never retreat.”

Mostovi - svi su oni na neki svoj osobit način vrijedni naše pažnje. A nama u Rijeci, ne nedostaje niti mostova ni nadahnuća. Od izvora do toka Rječine, na svega 17,5 kilometara postoji čak 21 most. Od prvoga, drvenog mosta, a pretpostavlja se da ga je početkom 17. st. dao sagraditi gradski sudac Gašpar Knežić do najnovijega, modernog

Bridges, all of them, are worthy of our attention in one way or another. And here in Rijeka they are not lacking nor do we lack their inspiration. 21 bridges appear in just 17.5 kilometres from the spring to the flow of the Rječina River. From the first, wooden bridge, which was supposedly built by the city’s judge, Gašpar Knežić, at the beginning of 17th

century, to the most recent, modern bridge in Rijeka dedicated to Croatian soldiers who fought in the Croatian War for Independence, they are silent witnesses of their period as well as the setting of city life.

The first Rijeka bridges

riječkog mosta posvećenog hrvatskim braniteljima, svi su oni nijemi svjedoci svoga vremena i poprišta gradskog života.

Prvi riječki mostovi U 16. stoljeću preko Rječine prelazilo se skelom. Promet putnika i stoke tada je bio prilično nepouzdan. Prvi poznati drveni most sagrađen je 1640. u blizini Trsatskih stuba i to zajedničkim sredstvima državne blagajne i trsatskog franjevačkog samostana. Most se obnavljao uporedo s razvojem Rijeke, izgradnjom važnih prometnica, ponajprije Karolinske ceste, koja je prva grad povezala sa zaleđem. Prizori Rijeke iz 17. i 18. st. ostali su sačuvani na mnogim grafikama grada iz toga doba. Bilo je to vrijeme plovidbe i jedrenjaka. U Rječinu su uplovljavali brodovi. Zbog visokih jarbola,

In 16th century, people used to cross the Rječina River by means of scaffolding. The traffic of passengers and cattle at that time was rather unsafe. The first known wooden bridge was built in 1640 close to the Trsat stairs and was subsidized by resources from the common state treasury and the Franciscan monastery on Trsat. The bridge was refurbished as the city of Rijeka developed and as the construction of important roads, such as the Karolinska road, took place. Images of Rijeka from 17th and 18th centuries have been preserved in numerous prints of the city from that period. It was also a period of navigation and sailing boats. Boats sailed into the Rječina River. Owing to the high masts, the bridge was replaced by a moveable one at the end of 18th century. The river bed of the Rječina has been changing over the years. Work to deepen, clean, and regulate the flow of the Rječina and the construction of a new harbour took place. Bridges separated and united the two parts of the city of Rijeka which has continued to remain a fishing, maritime and urban place. It has developed throughout history in the same way: as Mediterranean and central European city.

Destroyed bridges on the Rječina river The enlargement of the Rječina would often jeopardize bridges in its upper flow and those parts close to the Paper

most je krajem 18. st. zamijenjen pokretnim. Korito Rječine se iz godine u godinu također mijenjalo. Produbljivanje, čišćenje, regulacija toka Rječine i izgradnja nove luke. Mostovi su dijelili i spajali dvije strane Rijeke koja je do danas ostala i ribarska, i pomorska, i urbana. Baš kako se tijekom povijesti razvijala - mediteranski i srednjoeuropski.

Stradali mostovi na Rječini Nabujala Rječina često bi ugrožavala mostove u gornjem toku i kod Tvornice papira. Velika riječka poplava 1898. uništila je mnogo njih. Priroda je znala biti nemilosrdna, ali nikada nije ugrozila mostove na Rječini na način na koji je to učinio čovjek. Rijeka je 1873. imala dvije željezničke pruge: jednu prema Ljubljani i Austriji, drugu prema Zagrebu. U sklopu pruge izgrađen je željeznički most preko Rječine. U svojoj povijesti rušen je dva puta. Na „krvavi Božić“ 1920, Gabriele D'Annunzio i njegovi arditi dali su srušiti mostove u znak protesta na političku odluku da moraju napustiti Rijeku. Mostovi su se iznova gradili. Titula najvažnijem mostu - svjedoku riječke prošlosti, pripala bi sigurno poznatom riječkom pograničnom mostu („il ponte di confine“). U promet je pušten na staru godinu 1926. Rječina je bila granica dviju država, Kraljevine SHS i Kraljevine Italije. Tijekom Drugog svjetskog rata, rušili su ga prvi put Talijani prilikom kapitulacije, a potom Nijemci 1945. koji su srušili sve mostove na Rječini. Mnogobrojne fotografije iz tog doba svjedoče o velikim materijalnim

factory. The great Rijeka flood in 1898 destroyed numerous bridges. Nature has sometimes been merciless, but it has never jeopardized bridges on the Rječina River in the same way humans have. In 1873 Rijeka had two railways: one leading to Ljubljana and Austria and the other to Zagreb. As part of the railway a bridge was also built over the Rječina River. During its history it has been destroyed twice. On “Bloody Christmas” in 1920, Gabriele D’Annunzio and his Arditi destroyed the bridges as a sign of protest against the political decision which forced them to leave the city of Rijeka. Bridges were then reconstructed. The title of the most important bridge-witness of Rijeka’s past would certainly be assigned to the famous Rijeka border

a i danas, večeras, zaiskre mnoge emocije. Kont, pun života, ali buntovan, pravo je mjesto za individualca, pjesnika asfalta, predvodnika hrvatske književne avangarde, Janka Polić Kamova. Ako njegova skulptura prislonjena uz ogradu nad Rječinom nešto i opsuje, u stilu „viteza crne psovke“, Kontu to neće nimalo zasmetati.

Dva posve različita mosta Nemaju svi mostovi istu važnost. No, neki su nam važni i samo zato što njihovo postojanje ima simboliku. Most na Rječini je onaj prvi. Čekalo ga se gotovo toliko dugo koliko i riječku obilaznicu. Dakle, 20-ak godina. Jedva su ga dočekali i vozači budući da na tom dijelu, primjerice ljeti, dnevno prometuje 30-ak tisuća vozila. Dug 208,5 metara na visini od 101 metra iznad korita Rječine, bio je nazajhtjevniji objekt riječke obilaznice. A zbog njega su radovi kasnili barem pola godine.

štetama. No, most koji spaja obale obnavlja se i postoji. Dakako, nije to samo tek građevinska spona. Most je uvijek i komunikacijska veza.

Kultni most za druženje, a i ljubav Teško je procijeniti zašto neko mjesto postane „in“ okupljalište pa time i zaštitni znak grada. Na mostu iznad Rječine, terasa hotela Kontinental doista ima tu energiju da privuče, u ovom slučaju one koji se osjećaju drukčijima. Rokere, pankere, trashere, mlade pripadnike alternativne subkulture. Tik uz slastičarnicu (gdje se razgovori uz kolač vode u sasvim jednom drukčijem tonu) viđaju se i provokativni rokeri i pankeri s irokez frizurama. Kont je i mjesto mnogih ljubavi. Pod kestenom, na klupici, na ogradi, na stubama, s pogledom na Deltu i Mrtvi kanal, od polovice 60-ih godina,

bridge (“il ponte di confine”). It was opened to traffic on New Year’s Eve in 1926. The Rječina River was a border between two countries, the Kingdom of Serbs, Croatians and Slovenes and the Kingdom of Italy. During the Second World War it was destroyed for the first time by the Italians in the period of their capitulation and later by the Germans who destroyed all bridges on the Rječina River in 1945. Numerous photographs from that period witness great material damages. But a bridge uniting banks, can always be reconstructed and always exists. And of course, this is not just a construction link. A bridge is always a communication connection as well.

A cult bridge to spend time on and for lovers It is hard to evaluate why a certain place becomes a famous gathering point and with that a symbol of a city as well, but on the bridge over the Rječina, the terrace of the Kontinental Hotel really has that kind of energy to attract "the different", or at least those who feel different. Rockers, punks, trashers and youth members of alternative subcultures. And this takes place close to the pastry shop (where discussions over a piece of cake take on a completely different tone) where provocative rockers and punks can be seen with their Mohawk hairstyles. Kont is a place of many loves. Since the mid 1960s and even today, tonight, numerous emotions sparkle under the chestnut tree, on the bench, on the fence, on the stairs, with a view over the Delta or Mrtvi kanal. Kont, full of life, but rebellious, was the perfect spot for the individual, asphalt poet and leader of avant-garde Croatian literature, Janko Polić Kamov. If his sculpture,

I na kraju, riječki most koji se ne tiče vozača nego pješaka. A ima i „ono nešto“ što nas potakne da zastanemo. Skromnijih je dimenzija od prethodnoga, ali neusporedivo intimniji i osobniji. Most što premošćuje Mrtvi kanal je spomen-obilježje hrvatskim braniteljima. Vrlo je dojmljiva njegova umjetnička instalacija: pravilna trostrana prizma od lijevanoga stakla. Unutar prizme umetnut je hrvatski povijesni grb, a prizma lomi prirodno svjetlo i razlaže ga u boje spektra. Na njegovoj staklenoj ogradi i pored užurbanih prolaznika, uvijek ćete primijetiti da se netko zaustavio doživjeti trenutak ili izvrtiti svoje misli. Tako je to s mostovima i ljudima.

which leans on the fence above the Rječina River swears in the style of "The Knight of the Black Curse", it will not bother Kont at all.

Two completely different bridges Not all bridges have the same importance. But some of them are important to us just because their existence is symbolic of something. The first is the bridge on the Rječina River. Its construction was expected to be as long as Rijeka’s beltway. That means, around 20 years. And was particularly welcomed by drivers as in that part, for example, during the summer, around 30 thousand vehicles pass daily. 208.5 meters long and constructed at a height of 101 metres above the Rječine bed, it was the most demanding part of Rijeka's beltway. And because of it, construction work was at least half a year late. And of course, in the end, it was Rijeka’s bridge which was not a passenger but a drivers’ concern. And it has “a certain something” that stimulates us to stop. A bridge, with more modest dimensions than the latter one, but incomparably more intimate and more personal is that which crosses the Mrtvi kanal. It is a memorial symbol to Croatian defenders. Its artistic installation is very impressive: a regular trilateral prism made of cast glass. The Croatian historical emblem was inserted inside the prism and natural light is broken in the same prism into a spectrum of colours. On its glass fence and among the hurried passersby you can always observe someone stopping, experiencing a moment or passing through your thoughts. That’s how it is with bridges and people.

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Igor Rivetti Fotografije / Photos: TZ Rijeka / Rijeka Tourist Board

Specifičan položaj Rijeke omogućio je brojnim sportašima aktivno bavljenje zimskim sportovima Specific position of the city of Rijeka provided numerous sportsmen a possibility for an active participation in winter sports

Idealan zemljopisni položaj, povijesne okolnosti i dubina mora učinile su Rijeku jednom od najvažnijih i najvećih srednjoeuropskih luka. Na ovom je kutku planete spojeno i naizgled nespojivo – najveći lučki grad ujedno je i jedno od najvažnijih skijaških središta države. Sa skijama na ramenu iz Rijeke je na posljednje zimske Olimpijske igre u Vancouveru otputovalo četvero Riječana. Dalibor Šamšal, Danko Marinelli, Matea Ferk i Ana Jelušić nastavili su tako tradiciju koja je službeno počela 1885. godine kad je u Rijeci osnovan prvi klub, ujedno prvi skijaški klub u Hrvatskoj - Club Alpino Fiumano. Morska Rijeka je tako pretekla snježni Zagreb za 10 godina. Priča počinje s carskim inženjerom Ferdinandom Brodbeckom koji je krajem 19. stoljeća sudjelovao u izgradnji zgrade riječkoga kazališta. Bečanin je vjerojatno mislio da će mu u Rijeci biti potrebniji ručnik za plažu, no već nakon prvog posjeta shvatio je da mora donijeti i skije i tako je sve počelo. Prvo skijaško natjecanje održano je na Učki, no za skijanje u Rijeci zapravo je najviše kriv Platak, malo obiteljsko skijalište smješteno svega 30 kilometara od riječke luke. Platak je jedno od rijetkih skijališta na kojem s vrha sjedežnice možete uživati u pogledu na more, otoke i brodove. U tom pogledu, zahvaljujući Jadranskom slalomu na kojem je pobjeđivala i legendarna Janica Kostelić koja se baš na Platku u 24. godini, pred tri tisuće gledatelja, oprostila od skijanja, uživaju i vrhunski skijaši. Slalom s pogledom na more se od 1933. godine održava svakog ožujka, a nakon četrnaestogodišnje pauze ponovno se počeo održavati 2006.

Skijanje s

mirisom mora

Skiing with the aroma of the sea

No, Platak ne živi samo za vrijeme Europskog kupa. Na svom omiljenom izletištu, skijaši, snowboarderi i sanjkaši od prosinca do ožujka i noću mogu uživati na dobro osvijetljenim stazama. Ostatak godine rezerviran je za izletnike i ljubitelje planinskog zraka ili brdskog biciklizma. Naravno izleti ili skijanje na Platku nezamislivi su bez planinarskih domova koji nude autohtona jela i pića te smještaj u sobama okruženim jedinstvenom mikroklimom, na spoju Mediterana i planina. Rijeka je stoga idealno mjesto za one koji se ne mogu odlučiti između mora ili planina, ali i za one koji vole oboje. Samo pola sata dijeli Riječane i njihove goste od izležavanja uz more i sunčanja u kratkim rukavima te grudanja ili skijanja u zimskoj opremi. Upravo je to razlog zbog kojeg je u gradu na moru gotovo jednak broj plivačkih i skijaških klubova. Očito je da se ni Riječani nisu mogli odlučiti što im je draže.

An ideal geographic position, historical circumstances and the depth of the sea has made Rijeka one of the most important and largest central European ports. Here, in this corner of the planet we find together what might at first sight seem incompatible – the largest port city which is at the same time one of the most important ski centres in the country. Skis on their shoulders, four citizens from Rijeka left for the most recent Winter Olympic Games in Vancouver. Thus Dalibor Šamšal, Danko Marinelli, Matea Ferk and Ana Jelušić continued a tradition that officially began back in 1885 when the first ski club in Rijeka and Croatia was founded under the name of Club Alpino Fiumano. Seafaring Rijeka has surpassed snowy Zagreb for the last 10 years. The story began with imperial engineer, Ferdinand Brodbeck who, at the end of 19th century took part in the construction of Rijeka’s theatre building. Coming from Vienna, he probably thought that he would need no more than a beach towel in Rijeka but after his first visit he realized that he needed to bring his skis with him as well and that is how everything began. The first skiing competition took place on the Učka Mountain, but Platak, a small family ski resort located just 30 kilometres from the port of Rijeka was the most important factor thanks to which skiing in Rijeka developed. Platak is one of the rare ski resorts where, from the top of the ski lift, you can enjoy a view over the sea, the islands and ships. With this in mind and thanks to the Adratic Slalom in which even the legendary Janica Kostelić triumphed and who, in her 24th year on Platak, in front of three thousand spectators, said goodbye to skiing, here even the best skiers find enjoyment. A slalom race with a view of the sea has been taking place each March since 1933, and after a pause of 14 years, it recommenced here again as of 2006. However, Platak does not only come to life when the European Cup takes place there. This favourite skiers’, snowboarders’ and lugers’ excursion point can also be enjoyed at night on well illuminated slopes from December to March. The rest of the year is reserved for excursionists and mountain air or mountain cycling lovers. Both excursions and skiing on Platak are, of course, unimaginable without its mountain huts that offer traditional dishes and drinks as well as accommodation in rooms that enjoy a unique microclimate on the border of the Mediterranean and the mountains. In this way, Rijeka is an ideal place for those unable to decide between the sea and the mountains as well as for those who like both solutions. Just half an hour divides the citizens of Rijeka and their guests from lounging by the sea and sunbathing in short sleeves and throwing snow balls or skiing in full winter gear. This is precisely the reason why this city by the sea has almost the same number of swimming clubs as skiing clubs. It is obvious that even Rijeka’s citizens were unable to decide which activity they preferred.

Novi grad / New city za najmlađe. Upravo zbog toga ovaj centar zaista živi punim plućima cijele godine. Tower centar Rijeka nalazi se u rezidencijalnoj četvrti – na Pećinama, a do njega se može doći gradskim autobusom linijama 1 i 1b, turističkim autobusom i osobnim automobilom. Na raspolaganju je više od 2 tisuće natkrivenih parkirnih mjesta. Ovdje možete obaviti i kupovinu uz besplatnu uslugu modnog stiliste, „personal shoppera“ koji će vam pomoći u izboru idealne modne kombinacije. Kako bi se još više približili kupcima i posjetiteljima, Tower centar Rijeka pokrenuo je Loyalty program ili program vjernosti. Osnova loyalty programa je GOLDEN TOWER KARTICA. . Riječ je o kartici uz koju će se sakupljati bodovi prilikom svake kupovine, a isti će se potom pretvarati u smanjivanje računa prilikom idućih kupnji. Bodovi se sakupljaju po principu 100 kuna=1 bod, a osim popusta, organizirana je i nagradna igra „S Towerom kroz svijet

Tower centar Rijeka već se priprema za najčarobniji mjesec u godini – prosinac. Okićene trgovine, bogata ponuda, blagdanski ugođaj…čekaju na vas. Zanimljivi programi namijenjeni velikima i malima počinju već s blagdanom Svetog Nikole, 6. prosinca. mašte“, koja traje do 20. siječnja. Ne dvojite jer je glavna nagrada godišnja renta u iznosu od 50 tisuća kuna iskoristiva za kupnju unutar Tower centra Rijeka. Bodovi se mogu koristiti kod narednih kupnji za smanjivanje računa u omjeru 1 bod=1 kuna.

Tower center Rijeka pokrenuo je jedinstveni loyalty program

Tower center Rijeka run a unique loyalty program

Tower centar Rijeka I nakon pet godina, Tower centar Rijeka drži titulu najposjećenijeg šoping centra u gradu ali i šire. Tijekom prošle godine zabilježeno je oko 6 milijuna posjetitelja. Riječani, ali i brojni turisti, neprestano otkrivaju nove sadržaje trgovačkog centra koji je odavno postao puno više od mjesta za dobru kupovinu.

Even after five years, the Tower centre Rijeka holds the title of the most visited shopping centre in the town and further afield. Last year some 6 million visitors were registered. Citizens of Rijeka, as well as numerous tourists continuously discover the new facilities of the commercial centre that became much more than just a place for good shopping a long time ago.

Na više od 125 tisuća kvadrata, na pet katova, raspoređeno je 150 trgovina i osam megastora. U ponudi su eminentne marke ženske, muške i dječje odjeće i obuće i modnih dodataka, sportska oprema, trgovine namještajem i bijelom tehnikom, gift shopovi, hipermarket, kemijska čistiona, frizerski salon, ljekarna, banka i mjenjačnica.

On more than 125 thousand square metres, over five floors, 150 shops and eight megastores have been selected. The offers includes eminent brands of women’s, men’s and children’s apparel and footwear as well as fashion accessories, sports equipment, furniture and domestic appliance stores, gift shops, a hypermarket, dry cleaners, a hairdresser, a pharmacy, a bank and an exchange office.

Uz multiplex kino Cinestar, u Tower centru nude se i drugi zabavni sadržaji, automat klub, ugostiteljski objekti i igraonica

Besides the Cinestar multiplex cinema, other entertainment facilities are offered in the Tower centre such as an automat club,

Korisnikom Golden Tower kartice postajete čim ispunite pristupnicu na info pultu centra (4. Kat), a istu možete naći i na Internet stranicama www.tower-center-rijeka.hr i na Facebook stranici Tower Center Rijeka. Trgovine koje sudjeluju u programu označene su naljepnicama na ulazu i na kasama, a ima ih 70-tak. Ne čekajte!

catering facilities and a playroom for the youngest visitors. Precisely thanks to this the centre lives its life to the full throughout the year.

The Tower centre Rijeka has already started preparing for the most magical month of the year – December. Decorated shops, a rich offer, a holiday atmosphere...await you. Interesting programmes dedicated to children and adults are already beginning on the Feast of St. Nicholas holiday, on 6th December. The Tower centre Rijeka is located in a residential district – on Pećine and can be reached by city bus lines number 1 and 1b, by tourist bus as well as by car. There are more than 2 thousand indoor parking places at your disposal. You can shop here with a free fashion stylist service. Your own “personal shopper” who will help you choose the ideal fashion combination. In order to approach customers and visitors even more, the Tower centre Rijeka has initiated a Loyalty programme. This programme is set up on the GOLDEN TOWER CARD, which is a card that registers points at the moment of any purchase, and the same points can then be used for discount on further purchases. Points are collected based on the principle 100 kunas = 1 point, and as well as discounts, there is also a prize game “With Tower through an imaginary world” that will take place and be active until 20th January. Do not hesitate because the main prize is an annual credit of 50 thousand kunas available for shopping in the Tower centre Rijeka. Points can be used for further shopping discounts where 1 point will decrease the bill for 1 kuna. You can become a Golden Tower Card user as soon as you fill in the application form at the centre’s information desk (on the 4th floor) and the same form can also be found on Internet page www. tower-center-rijeka.hr as well as on the Tower Centre Rijeka’s Facebook page. Around 70 shops taking part in this programme will have a sticker mark at the entrance and also at the cash desk. Do not wait!

Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić

Gradski ticketing Dugotrajno čekanje u redovima za kartu omiljenog događaja počinje i završava u TIC-u. Ulaznice za aktualne i buduće koncerte, filmove, sportska natjecanja u gradu i regiji mogu se nabaviti u nekoliko jednostavnih koraka. Rijeka, vodeći digitalni grad u Hrvatskoj, razvio je moderan sustav kupnje ulaznica. Potrebno je samo putem portala odabrati događaj, platiti karticom ili gotovinom i rezervirano mjesto čeka na vas.

Suveniri – podsjetnici na nezaboravno Gotovo da ne postoji mjesto u gradu koje jače odiše „riječkim“ od TIC-a. Sve što podsjeća na grad, priča njegovu priču ili simbolizira bogatu povijest, našlo se pretočeno u suvenir u preglednoj galeriji. Suveniri s oznakom „Izvorno riječko“ u svijet će pronijeti glas o autohtonom proizvodu koji karakterizira Rijeku. Bez obzira odabrao li kišobran s motivima grada, poznati Morčić na nakitu, šalicu ili majicu oslikanu zaigranim motivima riječkoga slikara Voje Radoičića, kupac će u jedno biti siguran – da je kupio izvorno. Nasuprot onih riječkih, smjestili su se suveniri s markicom „Osobita kvaliteta“.

Turističko - informativni centar (TIC) – riječki putokaz tisućama znatiželjnika koji dolaze upoznati grad na Rječini

Tourist Information Centre (TIC) – a sign post in Rijeka for thousands of curious tourists visiting the city on the Rječina River

Mjesto na koje se

vraćaju putnici

A place where passengers come back Tek što ste ušli u moderni novouređeni prostor na još prepoznatljivijoj adresi, neposredno uz simbol Rijeke – gradsku uru, dočekat će vas topli osmijesi ljubaznih djelatnica koje će vas učas zatrpati korisnim informacijama, a nadohvat ruke bit će letak o najboljim restoranima u gradu. No, prije okrijepe, tu ćete saznati kako stići do nekolicine muzeja, gdje su najbolja mjesta za kupovinu ili što ne smijete propustiti obići. Uz jednostavne i jasne upute na nekoliko svjetskih jezika svi hoteli i raspoložive postelje u gradu činit će se lako dostupnima. Ukratko, sve što ste ikada poželjeli saznati o Rijeci, TIC će vam otkriti u brojnim vodičima, monografijama i audiomaterijalima.

From the time you enter the modern, newly furnished space at the familiar address close to the city tower – a symbol of Rijeka - you will be welcomed by the warm smiles of the friendly staff who will immediately overwhelm you with useful information, and you will find a flyer containing the best restaurants in the city within reach. However, before refreshments, you will discover here how to reach the museums, where the best places to go shopping are or what really must not be missed. With simple and clear directions in a variety of world languages all hotels and available accommodation in the city will seem easily reachable. To summarise, everything you ever wanted to find out about Rijeka will be revealed by the TIC through its numerous guides, monographies and audio materials.

U raznolikosti je ljepota, a upravo nju ponosno nose simboli riječkoga prstena. Zvončar iz Muna u društvu Zametskog ili onaj s Halubja zaštićen UNESCO-om, samo su dio bogate ponude suvenira iz zeleno – plavog okružja. I naravno, sve to može se kupiti i putem web trgovine.

Rijeka – dostupna svima Infokiosci sa zaslonom na dodir, smješteni na Riječkom lukobranu i Rivi, zainteresiranima će pružiti pregršt informacija. Zanimljiv i moderan pristup korištenja infokioska nerijetko privuče i domaćeg znatiželjnika. Jednako je kvalitetan i dostupan i infopunkt smješten na povijesnoj ljepotici - Trsatskoj gradini. Sve dosad nabrojeno, samo je ove godine privuklo u TIC više od 80 tisuća posjetitelja. Znakovito je ovosezonsko povećanje od čak 20 tisuća onih koji su se na bilo koji način raspitivali i naučili nešto novo o Rijeci. Topli i ljubazni osmijesi dočekat će i Vas, odlučite li posjetiti Rijeku!

City ticketing Waiting in a queue all day long to buy a ticket to your favourite event begins and ends at TIC. Tickets for current and future concerts, films, sport competition taking place in city and region can be purchased in just a few simple steps. Rijeka, a leading digital city in Croatia, has developed a modern system of purchasing tickets. All you need to do is choose the event on the web site, pay with your credit card or cash card and the reservation will be waiting for you.

Souvenirs – reminders of the unforgettable There is almost no other place in the city that breathes “Rijeka” like TIC does. Everything that reminds us of the city, tells its story or symbolizes its rich history in one way or another can be found in the form of a souvenir in the well systemized gallery. Souvenirs with the label “Original from Rijeka” will inform the rest of the world through these autochthonous products characterizing Rijeka. Regardless of whether you choose an umbrella with city motives, a famous Morčić on a piece of jewellery, a cup or a T-shirt painted with playful motives by Rijeka painter, Vojo Radoičić, you will be sure of one thing – that you have purchased an original product. There are also souvenirs with a “Special quality” label. Beauty is diversity, and precisely these Rijeka souvenirs proudly differ from others. The Mune bellringer in the company of the Zamet bellringer or the Halubje bellringer protected by UNESCO are just part of the rich offer within the green and blue surroundings. And of course, all of these can be bought in our web shop too.

Rijeka – available for everyone Information kiosks each with touchpad are located on Rijeka’s breakwater and on the Waterfront and will offer all those interested numerous pieces of information. This interesting and modern approach of using an Info kiosk often attracts the curious to Rijeka as well. This combined with quality is available at the Info point located against a backdrop of historical beauty – Trsat castle. Everything listed up to now this year has attracted over 80 thousand visitors to TIC. This season’s increase of 20,000 people is also significant who in one way or another have learned something new about the city. If you decide to visit Rijeka, you will be welcomed by a warm and pleasant smiles.

Tako je nekada bilo / Once upon a time

Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić Fotografije / Photos: Vila Ružić Netko je već kazao kako je riječ o građevini starijoj iznutra nego izvana. Tvrdnja je istinita na više načina. Jedna od njih vezuje se uz biografiju njezinih vlasnika. Kamen priče zakotrljao se u trenutku kad je začetnik obitelji, mladi sušački kožar i sin siromašnih roditelja, Gjuro Ružić, s nešto novca prikupljena marljivim radom i skrbnim životom, ušao 1870-ih u posao izrade obuće za radnike, kopače Sueskog kanala. Zarađeno je nastavio ulagati u industriju i građevinarstvo pa je u kratkom vremenu postao nadasve imućan čovjek. Stariji su Sušačani znali kazati djeci: „Pokupi taj ruzinavi čaval s poda, aš je tako Ružić storil si oni palaci!“. Gjuro će postati sušački gradonačelnik. Sin mu Gjuro obavljat će istu dužnost u dva mandata. Drugi sin, Viktor, odvjetnik i doktor prava, postat će u doba Kraljevine Jugoslavije ban Savske Banovine te ministar pravde. Vilu je podigao 1938. Poslije rata imovina mu je konfiscirana, a on lišen građanskih prava. Obitelj je izdržavala supruga Nada, prevodeći i podučavajući. Usprkos svemu, Ružići su na Pećinama nastavili skrbiti za obiteljsko nasljedstvo, uključujući kulturnu baštinu. A ona doista nije malena.

Zaštitni znak Spomeničke knjižnice i zbirke Mažuranić – Brlić – Ružić je prsten s likom guštera u gorskom kristalu, što ga je nosio Smail-aga Čengić, glavni akter čuvena Mažuranićeva epa

The symbol of the Memorial Library and the Mažuranić-Brlić-Ružić collection is a ring with an image of a lizard inserted into mountain crystal and worn by Smail-aga Čengić, the main character of the famous Mažuranić's epic poem

Starija iznutra

nego izvana

I to ne samo zahvaljujući prezimenu Ružić. U obitelj je s vremenom ušlo prezime Brlić, tragom Viktorove ženidbe s Nadom Brlić, kćeri Vatroslava Brlića i spisateljice Ivane Brlić-Mažuranić. Tako se s Ružićima ujedno našlo povezano prezime Mažuranić, uključujući hrvatskog bana i književnika Ivana Mažuranića. Također i prezime Demeter, budući da je pripadnik ilirskog pokreta, pisac Dimitrije Demeter bio Mažuranićev šogor. Spomenička biblioteka, zbirka stilskoga namještaja i umjetničkih predmeta našli su se 1971. oporučno na Pećinama. Potječu iz navedenih obitelji te s njima rodbinski povezanih obitelji Badovinac pl. Badovinski, Daubachy pl. Doljski, pl. Špun-Štrižić, grofova Lantieri, Solci-Schulz von Altenkazze, Müller von Thommamühl, Dworski von Prus, Nikolića baruna Podrinjskih, pl. Zajc, von Bernath Lendway, Vilhar, von Kuslan, Kukuljević Sakcinski, itd. Obitelj Ružić vlasnik je dvaju spomeničkih biblioteka i arhiva. Biblioteke i arhiva u vili na Pećinama te biblioteke i arhiva

It has already been said that we are talking about a building whose interior is older than its exterior. This claim is true in a number of ways. One of them regards the biography of its owner. The story began when the originator of the family, Gjuro Ružić, a young Sušak leather-worker and son of poor parents, with money put by from his hard-working and modest life, began a shoe-making business for labourers - those digging the Suez Canal in the 1870s. He continued to invest his earnings in industry and construction, and in a short period of time he became a relatively wealthy man. Older people from Sušak used to say to their children: “Pick up that rusty nail from the floor as that is how Ružić built his wealth!” Gjuro became Sušak's mayor. His son Gjuro had the same role for two mandates. His other son, Viktor, a lawyer and a Phd in law, in the period of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, became banus of Sava Banate, and the justice minister. The villa was built in 1938. After the war, his properties were confiscated, and he was deprived of his citizen rights. The family was maintained by his wife Nada who worked as a translator and a teacher. In spite of everything, the Ružić family continued with their care for family heritage in Pećine, which included a cultural heritage as well. And their cultural heritage was not insignificant.

Već je letimičnim pogledom sve jasno: sjajan je položaj stare vile uz more, ponad plaže Ružićevo. Smještena u sušačkom dijelu grada, okružena parkom punim mediteranskoga raslinja, uljuljkana u šum valova i zvukove cvrčaka. Njezin naručitelj, Viktor Ružić znao je što želi. I arhitekt David Bunetta bio je na visini zadatka.

Just from a quick view it is clear that: it is an ideal location for an ancient villa by the sea, above the Ružićevo beach. Located in the Sušak part of the city, surrounded by a park full of Mediterranean vegetation, emerged in the murmur of waves and the sound of crickets. Viktor Ružić ordered its construction knowing exactly what he wanted. The architect David Bunetta too was remarkable in doing his task.

It was not only thanks to the Ružić surname. The family was enriched by the surname Brlić as Viktor married Nada Brlić, daughter of Vatroslav Brlić and writer Ivana Brlić Mažuranić. Thus the Ružić family was connected to the surname Mažuranić, including the Croatian banus and writer Ivan Mažuranić. The surname Demeter was also part of the family as member of the Illyrian movement and writer Dimitrije Demeter was Mažuranić's brother-in-law. The memorial library, a collection of stylish furniture and artistic objects originating from those families and their relatives was left in Pećine in 1971, in compliance with a last will and testament. These family names also include Badovinac nob. Badovinski, Daubachy nob. Doljski, nob. Špun-Štrižić, counts Lantieri, Solci-Schulz von Altenkazze, Müller von Thommamühl, Dworski von Prus, Nikolić barons Podrinjski, nob. Zajc, von Bernath Lendway, Vilhar, von Kuslan, Kukuljević-Sakcinski…

Tko je Viktor Ružić? I zašto bi njegova vila, jedna od mnogih podignutih iznad pećinskih plaža, mogla biti zanimljiva posjetitelju Rijeke?

Who is Viktor Ružić? And why would his villa, one amongst numerous villas built above Pećine’s beaches, be of interest to the Rijeka visitor?

The Ružić family is the owner of two memorial libraries and archives. Besides the library and archive in the villa located on Pećine, there is also the Brlić family library and archive in Slavonski Brod. In spite of

Older interior than exterior

the location being in two different cities, these collections create one whole. The backbone of values located on Pećine are the library and the archive of banus and poet Ivan Mažuranić. When he was a boy, Mažuranić began to collect books in the German language. His lessons were in Italian, Hungarian and Croatian and he learned French, Latin and Greek and this is where the multilingualism of the preserved material came from. One of the most valid works of art in the villa is the manuscript of Gundulić’s epic poem Osman, which dates back to 1647 and which came to the Mažuranić family from the hands of the Montenegrin episcope and poet, Petar Petrović Njegoš. We can also find the so called Illyric closet here in which samples of important magazines with regard to the Croatian culture and political history were placed such as the Danica ilirska, the Novine horvatske and the Kraglski Dalmatino. The library includes almost every title printed in Croatia during the 19th century. It includes Levaković’s Glagolitic missal (17th century) as well as Dubrovnik’s works of art from 17th and 18th centuries. It has eight thousand books whilst the archive contains two thousand manuscripts, maps, diplomas and family documents. In 1947 it gained the status of memorial heritage.

Brlićevih u Slavonskom Brodu. Unatoč smještaju u dva grada, te zbirke čine cjelinu. Okosnica onoga što se nalazi na Pećinama su knjižnica i arhiv bana i pjesnika Ivana Mažuranića. Mažuranić je još kao dječak počeo skupljati knjige na njemačkom jeziku. Nastavu je slušao na talijanskom, mađarskom i hrvatskom, učio je francuski, latinski i grčki pa otud višejezičnost sačuvanih izdanja. Jedno od najvrjednijih djela u vili je rukopis Gundulićeva epa Osman iz 1647., koji je Mažuranićima stigao iz ruku crnogorskoga vladike i pjesnika Petra Petrovića Njegoša. Tu je i tzv. ilirski ormar u kojemu su odlagani primjerci vrlo značajnih časopisa za hrvatsku kulturnu i političku povijest, poput Danice ilirske, Novina horvatskih, Kraglskog Dalmatina. Biblioteka uključuje gotovo svaki naslov tiskan u Hrvatskoj tijekom 19. stoljeća. U njoj se mogu pronaći Levakovićev glagoljski misal (17. stoljeće), te dubrovačka djela iz 17. i 18. stoljeća. Broji osam tisuća knjiga, uz arhiv s dvije tisuće rukopisa, zemljovida, diploma, obiteljskih dokumenata. Godine 1947. dobila je status spomeničke baštine. Zaštitnim znakom zbirke smatra se srebrni prsten s likom guštera u gorskom kristalu, što ga je nosio turski silnik iz Hercegovine - Smail-aga Čengić, glavni akter istoimena Mažuranićeva epa. Autoru epa darovao ga je crnogorski vojvoda Đorđe Cerović, sin junaka Novice koji je handžarom likvidirao Smail-agu. Posjetitelji zbirku mogu vidjeti uz prethodnu najavu. U vili se znaju održavati predavanja iz povijesti hrvatske kulture, predstavljaju se knjige, otvaraju izložbe, održavaju koncerti i organiziraju slična, prostoru tematski sukladna događanja. Pri posjetu Vili Ružić možete se upisati u knjigu dojmova. Datira iz 1918., a utiske su u njoj zabilježili: spisateljica Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, redatelj Stanley Kubrick, slikar Božidar Jakac, glumica Vanessa Redgrave, znanstvenik Branko Fučić, pisac Nikola Polić, skladatelj Ivan Matetić Ronjgov, glumac Klaus Maria Brandauer i mnogi drugi.

The silver ring is considered to be the symbol of the collection with an image of a lizard inserted into a mountain crystal and worn by the Ottoman oppressor from Herzegovina – Smail-aga Čengić, who is the principal character of Mažuranić's epic poem of the same name. The ring was given to the author of the poem by the Montenegrin duke Đorđe Cerović, son of the hero Novica who executed Smail-aga with a curved dagger. Visitors can see the collection subject to booking prior to arrival. Lectures on Croatian history occasionally take place in the villa as well as book presentations, exhibitions, concerts and other similar thematic events adapted to the place are also organised. When you visit Villa Ružić you can sign your name in the book of impressions. This dates back to 1918, and in it impressions have been left by: writer Ivana Brlić Mažuranić, director Stanley Kubrick, painter Božidar Jakac, actress Vanessa Redgrave, scientist Branko Fučić, writer Nikola Polić, director Ivan Matetić Ronjgov, actor Klaus Maria Brandauer as well as many others...

Sat vremena od Rijeke / Just an hour from Rijeka

Piše / Written by: Igor Rivetti Fotografije / Photos: TZ Delnice

Delnice, grad u srcu Gorskog Kotara, postaju sve jače središte aktivnog i sportskog turizma Delnice, a city located in the heart of the Gorski kotar mountain area, has become an ever growing centre of active and sport tourism

Krenete li automobilom od Rijeke u smjeru sjeverozapada, nakon sat vremena stići ćete u Delnice - grad smješten na 698 metara, najvišoj nadmorskoj visini u Hrvatskoj i mjesto vrlo popularno kod sportaša.

If you begin your journey from Rijeka to the north-west, after an hour you will reach Delnice – a city located 698 metres above sea level, the highest location for a city in Croatia and a very popular place amongst athletes.

Brojni klubovi i reprezentacije česti su gosti toga gradića koji ima svega 6200 stanovnika, ali i odlične uvjete za pripreme sportaša tijekom cijele godine.

Numerous clubs and national teams often visit this small city that has only 6200 inhabitants, but which boasts excellent conditions for training throughout the year.

Turističko-sportska ponuda uključuje niz sportskih objekata i terena, sportašima su na raspolaganju dvorana, bazen, nogometni stadion s pomoćnim terenima i noćnom rasvjetom, automatska četverostazna kuglana, otvoreno košarkaško igralište, staze za skijaško trčanje, boćalište, skijalište, skakaonica, teniski tereni, brojne pješačke i biciklističke staze te multifunkcionalna "Ledena dvorana"

The tourist and sporting offer includes a series of sporting facilities and courts; athletes have a sports hall, swimming pool, a football stadium with training pitches and night illumination, automatic bowling alleys with four lanes, outdoor basketball courts, lanes for cross-country skiing, a bocce court, ski slopes, a ski jump, tennis courts, numerous walking and cycling trails as well as the multifunctional “Ledena dvorana” (Ice hall) at their disposal.

Ledena dvorana

Zelena i bijela idila A green and white idyl

Zimi Ledena dvorana ugošćuje moderno uređeno klizalište gdje se odigravaju utakmice hokeja na ledu. Može primiti 400 gledatelja i 180 klizača na terenu. Izvan zimske sezone, podloga u dvorani prilagođava se dvoranskim sportovima i tako u potpunosti opravdava naziv multifunkcionalna dvorana. Tako je Ledena dvorana, za koju mnogi tvrde da je jedan od najljepših takvih objekata ne samo u Hrvatskoj, jedan od glavnih krivaca što sportaši u Delnicama imaju sve potrebno za dobre pripreme. Delnička ljepotica izgrađena je uz pomoć sredstava Europske unije, Primorsko-goranske županije te grada u čijem je centru smještena.

Skijaška skakaonica Malo izvan centra grada smjestila se 70-metarska skijaška skakaonica, koja generacijama leži u srcima svih Delničana. Riječ je o jedinstvenoj skakaonici bogate i duge tradicije. Hrabrosti za skijaške skokove Goranima nikada nije nedostajalo, a iako je ideja o skakaonici krenula već 20-ih godina prošloga stoljeća, na izgradnju se čekalo do 1935. godine. Odmah po izgradnji dobiva status kultnog mjesta. Skokovi su na početku bili dugi 30-ak metara. Skakaonica je bila aktivna i za vrijeme Drugog svjetskog rata kada su s nje skakali talijanski vojnici koji su okupirali to područje, od kojih je velik broj u Delnice stigao iz alpskog dijela

Ice hall During the winter the Ice hall hosts a modernly furnished skating rink where ice hockey games take place. It can host up to 400 spectators and 180 ice skaters. Out of the winter season, the base in the hall is adjusted to a sports hall and completely justifies its name as a multifunctional hall. In this way the Ice hall, which by many people is considered one of the most beautiful facilities of its kind and not only in Croatia, is one of the main “suspects” because of which athletes in Delnice have everything necessary for excellent training. Delnice’s pearl was built with the support of the European Union, the County of Primorje and Gorski kotar and the city of Delnice funds.

Ski jump Just outside the city centre is the 70-metre ski jump that has been present in the hearts of numerous generations of Delnice citizens. It is a unique ski jump with a rich and long tradition. People from mountain areas have never lacked the courage for ski jumps, and even if the idea of constructing it had already been conceived in 1920s, the actual works only began in 1935. Immediately after its construction it gained the status of a cult place. In the beginning the jumps were around 30 metres long. The ski jump was also active during the Second World War, when Italian soldiers occupying the area, mainly from the Italian Alps, jumped there. After the war, the ski jump was reconstructed

Italije. Od rata je skakaonica nekoliko puta rekonstruirana kako bi joj se povećala duljina. Natjecanja su se na skakaonici održavala od 50-ih do 80-ih godina dvadesetog stoljeća nakon čega su zbog dotrajalosti i smanjene količine snijega skokovi prestali. U ožujku 2006. godine ponovo je obnovljena te je održan Kup Grada Delnica. Tako je sa skakaonica skinuta prašina, a one su ponovno postale zaštitni znak grada.

Kvalitetan smještaj Za sportski i aktivan turizam potreban je i kvalitetan smještaj. Delnice upravo to i nude. U njima je smješten hotel Risnjak čije pročelje krase tri zvjezdice kao potvrdu izuzetno komfornog smještaja. U nedalekom Brodu na Kupi smjestio se hotel Mance, potpuno preuređen 1997. godine. Tu su još i brojni pansioni, lovački domovi te jedinice privatnog smještaja. No sudeći po interesu i to je postalo pretijesno za sve koji žele doživjeti Gorski kotar. Razloga za dolazak nemaju samo sportaši. Raznovrsna turistička ponuda uključuje i velik broj zaštićenih objekata prirode. Uz Nacionalni park Risnjak ne smijete propustiti prekrasnu prirodu u Park - šumi Japlenški vrh, Dolinu leptira te Petehovac. Sva mjesta nude i brojne zanimljive pješačke staze.

Aktivni odmor Na području Delnica, kako u proljeće tako i ljeti, možete

and elongated a number of times. Competitions on the ski jump took place from the 1950s until 1980s after which, due to the worn-out condition and less snow, jumps terminated. In March 2006 it was rebuilt and the Delnice City Cup took place in the same year. In this way the dust was removed and the ski jump once again became the symbol of the city.

Quality accommodation Quality accommodation is also necessary for sporting and active tourism. Delnice is a city offering just that. In the area we can find the Risnjak hotel with three stars proving its extremely comfortable accommodation facilities. In the nearby Brod na Kupi is the Mance hotel, that was completely refurbished in 1997. Here there are numerous guest houses, hunting lodges as well as private accommodation units. But consistent with the interests, even this has become too crowded for all those wanting to visit the Gorski kotar mountain area. Not only athletes have a valid reason to come here. The variety of tourist offers even include a large number of protected natural facilities. Besides the Risnjak National Park, guests shouldn’t miss the beautiful natural surroundings in the Japlenški vrh park-forest, the butterfly valley as well as Petehovac. All places offer numerous interesting walking trails.

An active holiday Both in spring and summer within the Delnice area guests can experience eternal green tones, in the autumn there is

doživjeti beskrajne nijanse zelenila, ujesen predivnu raznolikost boja, a u zimskim mjesecima bijeli pokrivač. Šume, bistri potoci, jame, špilje i ponori nude prirodu u njenom najljepšem, izvornom obliku.

a beautiful variety of colours, and in the winter months it is covered in white. Forests, clear streams, hollows, caves and abysses offer nature in its most beautiful and original form.

Aktivni odmor jedino je logično rješenje za odmor u Delnicama jer je teško je ostati pasivan pored tolikih mogućnosti rekreacije. U Kupskoj dolini možete se voziti kajakom ili kanuom. Možete otići i na rafting, naravno u ljetnim mjesecima. Bistra i čista rijeka Kupa mamac je za osvježenje, iako se oni pravi mamci nalaze na udicama spuštenima u Kupu jer je ta rijeka poznata i kao mjesto okupljanja sportskih ribolovaca. Za one manje strpljive, Delnice nude pet biciklističkih staza srednje težine.

An active holiday is the only logical solution for relaxation in Delnice as it is hard to remain passive in the vicinity of so many possibilities for recreation. You can try kayaking or canoeing in the Kupa valley. During the summer months, of course, you could also try rafting. The clear and clean Kupa River is the lure for refreshment, although the real attractions are situated on the fish hooks lowered into the Kupa River which is famous as a meeting point for big-game fishermen. For those with less patience, Delnice offers five cycling trails of average difficulty.

Sve te potrošene kalorije nadoknadit ćete u jednom od brojnih restorana čija ponuda uključuje i brojna autohtona jela.

You will make up all those burned calories in one of the numerous restaurants whose offer includes numerous autochthonous meals.

U Delnicama su mislili na sve, a recept za idealan odmor ili pripreme je vrlo jednostavan. Ljekovitom su zraku Gorani dodali još malo zabave, puno sportskih objekata, zanimljivo pripremljenu i odličnu hranu, nezaboravnu prirodu te ljubazne domaćine. Zahvaljujući tome, sportaši su dobili mjesto za pripreme, rekreativci za zabavu, a svi oni koji su se došli samo izležavati i odmarati dobili su mjesto na svijetu gdje ih nitko neće ometati u njihovu planu.

Delnice hosts have thought of everything and the recipe for an ideal holiday or training is very simple. The local people have added a bit of entertainment to the curative air, a lot of sporting facilities, excellent food prepared in interesting ways, unforgettable nature and friendly hosts. Thanks to these, athletes have the ideal place for training, amateurs for entertainment, and all those who just came to loll about and relax have the one place in the world where no one will disturb them in their intent.

ZOOM

Riječki karneval

U ovom vas broju vodimo na Riječki karneval bez puno riječi, neka vas vodi objektiv fotografa koji šarene trenutke čuvaju zauvijek.

Rijeka carnival

In this issue we bring you to the Rijeka Carnival without many words. Will let you be guided by lens of the photographers which will preserve those colourful moments forever.

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events Prosinac / December 2011

Siječanj / January 2012 06.12., 26.12., 28. - 31.12.

Blagdanski program

Najveseliji mjesec u godini obiluje zbivanjima u gradu. Sve počinje blagdanom Sv. Nikole 6. prosinca, a nastavlja se tradicionalnim božićnim koncertima 26.12. u Katedrali sv. Vida te novogodišnjim koncertima 28., 29. i 30.12. u Hrvatskom narodnom kazalištu Ivana pl. Zajca. Program prosinca završava ludom novogodišnjom noći na kojoj će na Korzu nastupiti Dubioza kolektiv, Diskurz i Gustafi. 06.12., 26.12., 28. - 31.12.

Holiday programme

The most cheerful month in year is full of city events. Everything begins on the feast of St. Nicholas, on 6th December, and continues with traditional Christmas concerts on 26th December in St. Vitus Cathedral and New Year’s concerts on 28th, 29th and 30th December at the "Ivan pl. Zajc" Croatian National Theatre. The December programme ends with a crazy New Year’s Eve when Dubioza kolektiv, Diskurz and Gustafi will perform on the Korzo.

02. - 04.12. Family Fest Enjoy yourself at the family fair – Family Fest from 2nd until 4th December at the Dvorana mladosti (Youth Sports Hall) on Trsat. 02. - 04.12. Family Fest U Dvorani mladosti na Trsatu od 2. do 4. prosinca zabavite na se na obiteljskom sajmu – Family Fest.

03.12. 2. KRAF - Kvarner Riviera of amateur film The 2nd KRAF - Kvarner Riviera of amateur film begins on 3rd December, at the Art kino Croatia cinema.

03.12. 2. KRAF - Kvarnerska revija amaterskog filma U Art kinu Croatia 3. prosinca počinje 2. KRAF – Kvarnerska rivijera amaterskog filma.

15.12. Quadrennial Biennale 4 On 15th December, the Quadrennial Biennale 4 – art of performance; in collaboration with Location New 4 – art of performance begins at the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in collaboration with Location New York.

15.12. Bienale Kvadrilaterale 4 U Muzeju moderne i suvremene umjetnosti, 15. prosinca počinje Bienale Kvadrilaterale 4 - umjetnost performansa; u suradnji s Location New York. 23.12. - 13.01. Program astronomskog centra Svakako posjetite i riječki Astronomski centar u kojem se od 23. prosinca do 13. siječnja održava program namijenjen djeci, ali zanimljiv i odraslima. Muzeji U Sveučilišnoj knjižnici postavljena je izložba Glagoljice; u Prirodoslovnom muzeju razgledajte postave: Morski psi i raže, Akvarij; Geološka prošlost Jadrana; Ptice i sisavci riječkog područja; Vodozemci i gmazovi riječkog područja; Botanički vrt. Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog primorja nudi Kulturno-povijesni i etnografski postav, Memorijalna zbirka dr. Franje Kresnika. U Katedrali sv.Vida razgledajte postav „Isusovačka baština u Rijeci“, u svetištu Gospe Trsatske - Riznicu s vjerskim motivima, galerijski postav, te Kapelu zavjetnih darova, a na Trsatskoj gradini - izložbeni prostor "Stoljeće Trsatske gradine".

od 20.01. 29. Riječki karneval Mjesec u kojem počinje slavni Riječki karneval, ovoga puta u svom 29. izdanju. Već 20. siječnja u Dvorani mladosti bira se Kraljica karnevala i vrši primopredaja ključeva grada maškarama. Meštar Toni preuzima vodstvo grada i ljubitelje maškara vodi u peto godišnje doba – doba karnevala.

od 20.01. 29th Rijeka Carnival This year is the Rijeka Carnival’s 29th anniversary. Already the Queen pageant and the keys of the city will be taken over by masks on 20th January in the Dvorana mladosti (Youth Sports Hall). Master Toni will take over the rule of the city and will take mask lovers into the fifth season – the carnival season.

20.01. Carmina burana U HNK Ivana pl. Zajca 20. siječnja pogledajte veliku baletnu premijeru „Carmina burana“ u koreografiji Hugoa Viere.

20.01. Carmina burana The huge ballet premiere “Carmina burana”, by choreographer Hugo Viero, can be seen at the “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre, on 20th January.

25. - 29.01. Sajam vjenčanja U sportskom Centru Zamet od 25. do 29. siječnja održava se Sajam vjenčanja.

25. - 29.01. Wedding Fair The Wedding Fair will take place in the Zamet Sport Centre from 25th until 29th January.

27.01. Noć muzeja Dana 27. siječnja svoja vrata otvaraju riječki muzeji na popularnoj manifestaciji Noć muzeja. Iskoristite slobodan ulaz i uživajte u sadržajima i postavima.

27.01. Night of Museums Rijeka’s museums open their doors on 27th January during the famous event known as Night of Museums. Take advantage of this free entrance and enjoy the contents and exhibitions.

28.01. Carnival Snowboard Session Na Gatu Karoline Riječke, uz samo more, 28. siječnja pogledajte vratolomije na umjetnom snijegu. Carnival Snowboard Session postao je neizostavni dio karnevala u Rijeci.

28.01. Carnival Snowboard Session Watch acrobatics on artificial snow on Karolina Riječka Pier close to the sea on 28th January. This Carnival Snowboard Session has become a regular carnival event in Rijeka.

Veljača / February 2012 11.02.

Dječja karnevalska povorka

Dječja karnevalska povorka, 11. veljače, karnevalski je događaj u kojem sudjeluju najmlađi Riječani i njihovi gosti. Rijeka mališana u raznobojnoj maškaranoj povorci preplavi riječki Korzo, a na posljednjoj je sudjelovalo gotovo 6.000 malih maškarica raspoređenih u 78 karnevalskih grupa.

23.12. - 13.01. Rijeka Astronomy Centre programme You should certainly visit the Rijeka Astronomy Centre where a programme dedicated to children, but of interest to adults too will take place from 23rd December until 13th January. Museums The Glagolitic alphabet exhibition has been collocated within the University Library; visit the exhibitions at the Natural History Museum: Sharks and Rays, Aquarium; Adriatic geological past; Birds and mammals of the Rijeka area; Reptiles and amphibians of the Rijeka area; Botanical garden. The Maritime and Historical Museum of Croatian Littoral offers a cultural and historical ethnographic exhibition, the Doctor Franjo Kresnik’s Memorial Collection. Visit the “Jesuits heritage exhibition in Rijeka” at St. Vitus Cathedral; and the Treasury with religious motives at the Our Lady of Trsat Sanctuary's Thesaurus and Gallery, as well as the gallery exhibition and Chapel of oath gifts; and at the Trsat Castle – in the exhibition area: A century of Trsat Castle.

11.02.

Children’s Carnival Parade

The Children’s Carnival Parade that takes place on 11th February is a carnival event in which the youngest of Rijeka’s citizens and their guests take part. Rivers of children in a colourful masked parade overflow Rijeka’s Korzo, and almost 6,000 small masks took part, selected from 78 carnival groups in the last parade.

03.02, 11.02. Ljermontova “Maskarada”, Verdijev “Nabucco” U HNK Ivana pl. Zajca, 3. veljače sve kazališne grane izvest će dramu “Maskarada” Mihaila Jurjeviča Ljermontova u režiji Vita Taufera, a 11. veljače na redu je Verdijev “Nabucco” pod dirigentskom palicom Nade Matošević.

03.02., 11.02. Ljermontov “Maskarada”, Verdi “Nabucco” In the “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre, on 3rd February, all theatre branches will perform the drama “Maskarada” by Mihail Jurjevič Ljermontov, directed by Vito Taufer and on 11th February will be presented Verdi’s “Nabucco”, conducted by Nada Matošević.

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

19.02. Međunarodna karnevalska povorka Međunarodna karnevalska povorka kruna je karnevalskih svečanosti na Kvarneru, pa i šire. U nedjelju 19. veljače Korzom će proći stotine alegorijskih kola, tisuće maski i mnoštvo gledatelja iz zemlje i inozemstva. Otkako je u organizaciji Turističke zajednice grada Rijeke prvi put održan 1982. godine, obnovljeni Riječki karneval u najboljem je svjetlu nastavio višestoljetnu tradiciju maškaranja u primorskim krajevima Hrvatske i uzdignuo Grad na Rječini među najznačajnije europske karnevalske gradove. Nigdje na svijetu nećete doživjeti ovakav spoj europskog građanskog karnevala temeljenog na povijesnim i kulturnim običajima i elementima folklora i mitologije, stoga budite što želite, dođite na Riječki karneval! Na posljednjoj karnevalskoj povorci sudjelovalo je 9.000 maškara raspodijeljenih u 107 grupa, a povorku su uveličala i mnogobrojna alegorijska vozila. Uživo ih je pratilo preko 110.000 ljudi.

19.02. International Carnival Parade The International Carnival Parade is the crown of carnival ceremonies in the Kvarner area and its surroundings. On Sunday, 19th February, hundreds of allegoric floats, thousands of masks and numerous spectators from Croatia and abroad will pass along the Korzo. Since it was first organized by the Rijeka Tourist Board in 1982, the renovated Rijeka Carnival has continued its centuries’ old tradition of masking in the Littoral parts of Croatia in the best possible way and has put the City on the Rječina River onto the list of the most important European carnival cities. Nowhere in the world will you experience this bond of European city carnival based on historical and cultural customs and elements of folklore and mythology so, be what you want to be, come to Rijeka Carnival! 9,000 masks selected in 107 groups took part and the parade was enriched by numerous allegoric floats at the last carnival parade. The parade was followed by a total of over 110 thousand people.

Ožujak / March 2012

CMY

18.03. Međunarodni dan planetarija U Astronomskom centru 18. ožujka organizira se zanimljiv program povodom Međunarodnog dana planetarija.

18.03. International Planetarium Day An interesting programme in occasion of the International Planetarium Day is organized on 18th March in Astronomy Centre.

25.03. Izložba pasa Ljubitelji četveronožnih mezimaca doći će na svoje 25. ožujka izložbom pasa u Boćarskom centru Podvežica.

25.03. Dog exhibition Pet lovers will be satisfied as on 25th March a dog exhibition will take place in the Podvežica Bocce centre.

25.03., 30.03. Puccinijeva „Manon Lescaut“, Prohićeva „Antigona“ U HNK Ivana pl. Zajca 16. ožujka na repertoaru je Puccinijeva opera „Manon Lescaut“, 25. ožujka pogledajte premijeru Talijanske drame „Antigona“ autora Ozrena Prohića, a 30. ožujka predstavu nastalu u koprodukciji s HKD Teatrom. Riječ je o tekstu „Dabogda te majka rodila“ Vedrane Rudan, a u režiji Tatjane Mandić Rigonat.

25.03., 30.03. Puccini „Manon Lescaut“, Prohić „Antigona“ On 16th March at the “Ivan pl. Zajc ”Croatian National Theatre Puccini’s opera“ Manon Lescaut will be performed and on 25th March you can watch the premiere of the Italian drama, "Antigona” by author Ozren Prohić whilst on 30th March there is a show created in co-production with the HKD Teatar. It is actually a text written by Vedrana Rudan “Daboga te majka rodila” (If only your mother had given birth to you) directed by Tatjana Mandić Rigonat.

Travanj / April 2012 Homo si teć Tijekom travnja organizira se masovna ulična utrka na Korzu Homo si teć.

Homo si teć (Let's run) Throughout April a mass street race is organized on the Korzo known as Homo si teć (Let's run).

04 - 14.04. Astronomski centar „Tjedan tamnog neba“ Astronomski centar 2. travnja slavi godišnjicu otvaranja i priređuje bogat program. Od 4. do 14. travnja posjetite „Tjedan tamnog neba“.

04 - 14.04. Astronomy Centre “The week of the dark sky” On 2nd April the Astronomy Centre will celebrate its anniversary and will prepare a rich programme. From 4th until 14th April, visit “The week of the dark sky”.

Piše / Written by: Andrea Bralić

Fotografije / Photos: TZ Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board, Dean Miculinić

Slasni kutak / Tasty corner

Piše / Written by: Sanja Krmpotić Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić

Sveta riba

za blagdan i svagdan

Holy fish for holiday and for everyday

Tko hvali jegulju, tko tunu, tko ražu, a tko glavoča; tu slave oradu, a tamo barbuna, tko voli lista, a tko inćuna, Petar hoće oslića, Pavao srdelu. No svakom ću u lice reći da je riba koju treba najviše cijeniti iz svih razloga, bakalar...

There are those who praise the eel, those the tuna, Those the sting-ray, and those the goby; Here celebrate the sea-bass, and there the surmullet, Those who like the sole and those the anchovy; Peter wants the hake; Paul the sardine; But I will say in everyone’s face That the fish that should be most appreciated For every reason, is the cod-fish…

Ove početne stihove iz najpoznatijeg i najduhovitijeg hvalospjeva bakalaru napisao je talijanski pjesnik Luigi Plet sredinom 19. stoljeća u znak zahvalnosti sušenom bakalaru, koji je prema legendi prehranio i time spasio Veneciju za vrijeme teške opsade grada.

This beginning verses from the most famous and humoristic song of praise were written by Italian poet, Luigi Plet in the middle of 19th century as a sign of gratitude for dried cod-fish that, according to legend, nurtured and saved Venice in the period of city occupation.

Bakalar (lat. Gadus sp.) je riba hladnih mora, obitava u sjevernom Atlantiku, uz obale Norveške (otočje Lofoten), Islanda, Kanade (otok Newfoundland), Grenlanda i Amerike. Najpoznatija i najviše lovljena riblja vrsta, svojim je jedinstvenim okusom osvojila nepca širom svijeta. Zamršenim putevima stigla je iz hladnog Sjevernog mora na naše trpeze, te u jednostavnom sušenom ili soljenom obliku postala gastronomski kontinuitet, stoljećima povezujući sjevernu i južnu Europu.

Cod-fish (lat. Gadus sp.) is a fish living in cold seas; it has found its habitat in the north Atlantic, by the shores of Norway (Lofoten islands), Iceland, Canada (Newfoundland Island), Greenland and in America. The most famous and most popularly caught fish species has conquered the palates of the whole world with its unique taste. Along bumpy roads it came from the cold North Sea to our tables and in a simple dried or salted form became a gastronomic constant, bonding northern and southern Europe for centuries.

Štap-riba osvaja svijet Slijedom povijesnih zapisa, za to je zaslužan mletački plemić i trgovac Piero Querini, koji je davne 1431. godine isplovio s Krete takozvanom flamanskom rutom kroz Gibraltar prema Antwerpenu, prevozeći grčko vino i začine. No, marljivo pripremano putovanje s novim, najsuvremenijim trgovačkim brodom kojim je trebao steći slavu i bogatstvo, pratila je nesretna kob - od smrti najstarijeg plemićeva sina prije isplovljavanja do niza oluja i konačnog brodoloma na obalama Norveške. Brodolomce je oduševila gostoljubivost stanovnika Lofotskog otočja, ribarskih obitelji, a ono što ih je posebice oduševilo bio je bakalar i poseban postupak kojim su ga konzervirali. Bakalar se suši na vjetru i na suncu bez soli, a kako ta riba nema masnoća, stvrdne se kao drvo. Kad je žele jesti, istuku je ušicom sjekire da se rascijepi na konce poput vlakana, zatim dodaju maslac i začine, te je skuhaju. To je velik i neprocjenjiv proizvod toga mora, zapisao je Querini u svom izvještaju koji se danas čuva u Vatikanskoj knjižnici u Rimu. U doba kada je konzerviranje ribe bio problem, sušena riba iz njegova putopisa, bio je proizvod velikih mogućnosti. Tako je potajno, ali neumoljivo, „štap-riba“ (norveški tørrfisk) ušla u mediteransku kuhinju, a preko Venecije i do naših krajeva. Sve češća konzumacija bakalara diljem Europe utjecala je i na trgovinu i to prvenstveno zbog njegove dugotrajnosti, hranjivosti i mogućnosti konzumacije bez kuhanja. Često se pri dugim plovidbama ostajalo bez drva koje se koristilo za kuhanje pa je sirovi bakalar bio jedina mogućnost prehrane na brodovima kojima se osvajalo nove svjetove. Tko zna bi li to uspjeli bez bakalara!

Stick-fish conquers the world Following historical annotations, for this, Venetian nobleman and merchant, Piero Querini was responsible who, in ancient 1431, sailed from Crete along the so called Flemish route, by way of Gibraltar towards Antwerp, transporting Greek wine and spices. However, his diligently prepared trip on a new and most modern merchant ship with which he would become famous and rich, was followed by unlucky fate – from the death of the nobleman’s oldest son before the ship left the port to a series of storms and finally a ship wreck off the Norwegian coast. Castaways were thrilled by the friendly behaviour of Lofoten islanders, the fishermen's families and what especially amazed them was the cod-fish and the special procedure in which it was conserved. Cod-fish is dried in the wind and sun without salt, and as such is completely fat free becoming solid as a tree. When people want to eat it, they beat it with the blunt end of an axe so that it splits open into filaments similar to fibres. Then butter and spices are added and the fish is ready for cooking. It is a large and priceless product of those seas, Querini wrote in his report which today is preserved in the Vatican library in Rome. In the period when fish conservation presented a problem, dried fish from his travel writings, was a product with great possibilities. In this way, secretly, but unrelentingly, the stickfish“(tørrfisk in Norwegian) became part of Mediterranean culture, and from Venice reached our region too. The ever growing consummation of cod-fish throughout Europe influenced trading mainly because of its long lasting and nutritive characteristics as well as because of the possibility of consumption without cooking. During long navigations it often happened that people remained without wood for cooking

so raw cod-fish was the only possibility for nutrition on board when conquering new worlds. Who knows if it would have been possible without a cod-fish!

Cod-fish in Littoral cuisine Although fishing today is carried out in motor boats, the tradition of fish refinement has remained the same. Cod-fish is usually either dried in the open air for around three months or the procedure includes first salting, and then drying. In this way it can be preserved for years. Within Mediterranean countries salted and dried cod-fish is especially appreciated in France and Spain, whilst in Portugal the salted cod-fish is considered a national dish prepared in numerous ways and consumed throughout the year. In Croatia, dried cod-fish is a symbol of fasting during the Christmas or Easter holidays and is mainly prepared in two ways: either - in bianco (using white wine) or in rosso (using tomato sauce) with potatoes – alla marinara .

Bakalar u primorskoj kuhinji Iako se danas u ribolov ide motornim plovilima, tradicija prerade je ostala ista. Bakalar se uglavnom suši na otvorenom oko tri mjeseca ili se prvo soli, a potom suši, te se tako može čuvati godinama. Od sredozemnih zemalja soljeno-sušeni bakalar se posebno cijeni u Francuskoj i Španjolskoj, dok je u Portugalu soljeni bakalar nacionalno jelo koje se pripravlja na bezbroj načina i konzumira tijekom cijele godine. U Hrvatskoj se sušeni bakalar udomaćio kao simbol posta za božićne i uskrsne blagdane i uglavnom se priprema na dva načina: na bijelo – in bianco ili na crveno s krumpirom – mornarski. Nabavka i priprema bakalara je višednevni ritual koji započinje

Hrvatski klub ljubitelja bakalara

Hrvatska spada među najveće uvoznike i potrošače norveškoga sušenog bakalara. Osim toga, prije skoro petnaest godina je osnovan je i Hrvatski klub ljubitelja bakalara. Jedini je takav u Europi organiziran kao udruga sa statutom i trenutno broji 273 člana koji dolaze iz Norveške, preko Njemačke i Italije do naše zemlje, rušeći jezične barijere promicanjem autohtonih i svjetskih recepata, te kulture blagovanja omiljene im ribe. Klub godišnje proglašava velikog meštra bakalarskog stola kada članovi pripremaju razne delicije od bakalara, a preko 320 recepata (za svaki dan u godini po jedan) objedinili su u Libru bakalara, među kojima im je najposebniji onaj za proizvodnju rakije od bakalara.

The supply and preparation of cod-fish is a ritual that lasts several days and begins with an accurate selection of the right one according to species and quality; it is observed, measured and each person has a different secret sign crucial for the purchase: lateral fins separated from the body, flat, open entrails, well cleaned on the neck and abdomen, undamaged skin, without cavities, white and transparent around its „ears“…However, the classification of dried cod-fish is not simple and users mainly know only the most widespread classes amongst which the most appreciated is the ragno species – supposedly the best quality fish of large dimensions and with meat free of fats named after the Ragnar family, who were famous Norwegian cod-fish exporters. Then the preparation of the fish follows before cooking itself. Then this holy fish is ruthlessly beaten with a wooden hammer and then soaked in cold water for two-three days with the water being changed regularly. The soaked cod-fish is cooked in cold, salted water and then cleaned from its bones and skin and split up into pieces. Further preparation depends on tradition and the creativity of the chef, and what excellent cod-fish chefs use

Croatian cod-fish lovers club

Croatia has been selected amongst the largest importers and consumers of Norwegian dried cod-fish. As well as this, the Croatian club for cod-fish lovers was founded almost fifteen years ago. It is the only one of its kind in Europe organized as an association with a statute and 273 members from Norway, through Germany and Italy to Croatia surpassing language barriers by promoting local and world recipes as well as the culture of eating their favourite fish. Each year the club proclaims a master of the cod-fish table. Members prepare a variety of cod-fish delicacies and over 320 recipes (one a day) are included in the cod-fish book where a specialty of the preparation of cod-fish brandy can also be found.

Riječanin u lovu na bakalar

Jedan od rijetkih Hrvata koji je osobno iskusio lov na bakalar je naš sugrađanin Vilim Penko. Ploveći sedam godina na nizozemskim ribarskim brodovima kao upravitelj stroja, bio je odgovoran i za kvalitetu ribe od ulova do isporuke. Bakalar je lovio od listopada do veljače, uglavnom u Sjevernom moru u količinama unutar dozvoljenih kvota, ali prosječno 8000 tona godišnje. Ribolov je trajao oko tri tjedna, plovilo se i po lošem vremenu, jakom vjetru i valovima visokim i do 30 metara! Usprkos tomu, Penku se bakalar nije zamjerio i još uvijek tvrdi da nema bolje ribe od svježega bakalara čije se meso, bijelo poput snijega, jednostavno topi u ustima. pomnim odabirom onog pravog po vrsti i kvaliteti, promatra se, mjerka, proučava i svatko ima neke tajne znakove presudne za kupovinu: bočne peraje odignute od tijela, plosnat, otvorene utrobe, dobro očišćen na vratu i trbuhu, neoštećene kože, bez udubljenja, bijele boje i proziran kod „ušiju“… Ipak, klasifikacija sušenog bakalara nije jednostavna i potrošači uglavnom poznaju samo najrasprostranjenije klase, a među njima je posebno cijenjena ragno – navodno riba najbolje kvalitete, velikih dimenzija i nemasna mesa, nazvana po obitelji Ragnar, poznatim norveškim izvoznicima bakalara. Potom slijedi priprema prije kuhanja, kad se tu svetu ribu nemilosrdno tuče drvenim batićem, zatim se namače u hladnoj vodi dva-tri dana uz često mijenjanje vode. Namočeni bakalar kuha se u hladnoj, posoljenoj vodi, potom očisti od kostiju i kože te razlomi na komade. Daljnja priprema ovisi o tradiciji i kreativnosti kuhara, a ono što vrsni priprematelji bakalara s područja Kvarnera koriste su vino, prošek, pinjoli, grožđice, slane srdele, krušne mrvice…

Za dobro raspoloženje Bakalar spada u bijelu ribu, blaga okusa i izvrsna nutritivna profila, bogat bjelančevinama, mineralima, vitaminima, a zbog malog udjela masnoća (uglavnom visokovrijednih omega-3 masnih kiselina) svrstava se u skupinu niskokaloričnih proizvoda. Zbog koncentriranja hranjivih sastojaka tijekom sušenja, jedan kilogram sušenog bakalara ima istu energetsku vrijednost kao pet kilograma svježe ribe. Nema aditiva niti konzervansa i lako se probavlja, što ga čini zdravom i kompletnom namirnicom. Osim toga, u tijelu potiče sintezu serotonina – hormona zaslužnoga za dobro raspoloženje. Stoga se opustite i bez grižnje savjesti uživajte u bakalaru! Uvijek, uz čašu dobroga vina i okruženi dragim ljudima.

Rijeka citizen hunting for cod-fish

One of the rare Croatians who personally experienced a hunt for cod-fish is our fellow-citizen, Vilim Penko. Sailing for seven years on Dutch fishing boats as chief engineer, he was at the same time responsible for fish quality from the moment of the catch to delivery. He hunts permitted quantities from October until February, mainly in the North Sea, and the average catch amounts to approximately 8000 tons per year. Fishing lasts for about three weeks, they sail in poor weather conditions, with strong winds and waves that sometimes reach 30 metres! In spite of that, Penko does not resent cod-fish and still claims that there is no better fish than a fresh cod-fish whose meat, white as a snow, simply melts in the mouth. in the Kvarner area are wine, pine kernels, raisins, salted sardines, bread crumbs…

For a good mood Cod-fish is a white fish with a mild taste and an excellent nutritional profile, rich of protein, minerals, vitamins and due to the low quantity of fats (mainly high-quality omega-3 fatty acids), it is selected amongst low-calorie group products. Because of the concentration of nutritional content during the drying process, one kilogram of dried cod-fish has the same energetic value as five kilograms of fresh fish. It does not contain additives nor preservatives and is easily digested which makes it a healthy and complete ingredient. As well as this, it stimulates serotonin synthesis – the hormone responsible for a good frame of mind. So relax and enjoy your cod-fish without guilt! It should always be eaten accompanied by a glass of good wine and surrounded by close friends and family.

Slasni kutak / Tasty corner

Piše / Written by: Igor Rivetti Fotografije / Photos: Igor Paulić

1. Podloga od kvarnerskog škampa i vrganja • 200 g gljiva (vrganji ili šampinjoni) • 100 g škampi (očišćeni repovi) • pršut, kadulja Sotirati vrganje i narezanu kadulju na maslacu i maslinovom ulju, a na kraju pršut i škampe. Posoliti i popapriti i posložiti kao posteljicu. Na to staviti pripremljenu kremu od krumpira.

1. Kvarner scampi and penny bun base • 200 g mushrooms (penny buns or champignons) • 100 g scampi (cleaned scampi tails) • smoked ham, sage Sauté the penny buns and cut sage in butter and olive oil and then add smoked ham and scampi. Add salt and pepper to taste and set it as a bed. Cover with potato cream.

Autohtone delicije našega kraja na nov i moderan način uskoro stižu i na male ekrane Autochthonous delicacies of our area prepared in a new and modern way will soon be shown on TV

2. Krema od krumpira

3. Poširani žumanjak

• 100 g krumpira • 200 ml vrhnja za kuhanje • ulje od tartufa, sol

• žumanjak

Krumpir dobro oprati, posoliti i skuhati u ljusci. Nakon toga ga oguliti i još vruć propasirati dodajući vodu u kojoj se kuhao. Oplemeniti uljem od tartufa, te blendati s vrhnjem i sve zajedno istući u pjenu (ako želite dobiti finu pjenastu strukturu, od velike pomoći će biti sifon za šlag).

2. Potato cream • 100 g potatoes • 200 ml cooking cream • truffle oil, salt Wash the potatoes thoroughly, add salt and boil without removing the skin. Once the potatoes are cooked, remove the skin and whilst they are still hot, strain them adding the water in which they were boiled. Add the truffle oil and blend it with the cooking cream. Whip the mixture together into foam (if you want to obtain a fine foamy structure use an electric whisk).

Žumanjak koji smo prethodno stavili u nauljenu najlonsku foliju uroniti u provrelu vodu na manje od jedne minute. Kad se uoče prvi znakovi koagulacije na površini, žumanjak je poširan. Nakon što ga položimo u kremu od krumpira, malo ga posoliti. I na kraju sve to lijepo servirajte i dobar tek!

3. Poached yolk • egg yolk Turn off the boiled water and dip in the yolk which was previously placed in oiled cling film for less then a minute. When you first notice signs of coagulation on the surface, the yolk has been poached. Add a touch of salt after placing it onto the potato cream. At the end serve and bon appetite!

Guštiona - emisija o hrani

koja nas čini sretnima Vatromet mirisa i okusa na tanjuru Primorsko-goranske županije

Guštiona – a show about the food that makes us happy An explosion of flavours and tastes on the County of Primorje and Gorski kotar’s plate

Gastronomska ponuda Kvarnera temelji se na zdravoj mediteranskoj kuhinji u kojoj prevladavaju namirnice iz vrta, ribe, školjke i rakovi, otočka janjetina, ovčji ili kozji sir, maslinovo ulje, pršut, divljač, kobasice… Jela spravljana po starim receptima doživljavaju zanimljive modifikacije modernih šefova kuhinja stoga ne treba ni sumnjati da će ovaj serijal imati brojne poklonike.

The Kvarner gastronomic offer is based on healthy Mediterranean cuisine where garden ingredients, fish, molluscs and crustaceans, lamb from the island, sheep’s or goat’s milk cheese, olive oil, smoked ham, game, sausages prevail...Dishes prepared according to traditional recipes that are subjected to interesting modifications by modern chefs, so there is no doubt that this show will have numerous fans....

Gastronomija je jedan od najvažnijih turističkih aduta Kvarnera što uviđa i sve veći broj turista. Kako bi se primorska i goranska kuhinja što više približile gostima tijekom godina nastaje niz gastronomskih manifestacija poznatih i izvan granica Hrvatske. Marunada, Dani šparuga, šurlica, janjetine ili škampi, Plodovi gorj samo su dio bogate gastronomske

Gastronomy is one of the most important tourist attractions of Kvarner and a growing number of tourists are also aware of this. Over the years a series of gastronomic events have been created even outside the Croatian borders in order to bring the littoral and mountain cuisines as close to guests as possible. Marunada (Chestnuts Days), Asparagus, Šurlice (traditional pasta), Lamb or Scampi Days and Mountain Berry Days...are just part of the

scene koja tijekom čitave godine obogaćuje turističku sliku regije.

rich gastronomic panorama that enriches the tourist image of the region throughout the year.

U novoj kulinarskoj emisiji Guštiona, koja se od siječnja emitira na Kanalu Ri, kuhat će se autohtona jela od namirnica specifičnih za naš kraj. Kuharica Srđana Jevtić obilazit će restorane i konobe i u njima spravljati prave delicije, a zajedno s proizvođačima hrane gledatelje će upoznati s brojnim zanimljivostima i tajnama dobre kuhinje.

In the new culinary show called Guštiona which will be transmitted from January on Kanal Ri, chefs will prepare autochthonous cuisine dishes using ingredients specific to our areas. Chef Srđana Jevtić will visit restaurants and taverns and will prepare true delicacies there. Together with food producers she will introduce spectators to numerous curiosities and secrets of good cooking.

U prvoj emisiji, u restoranu Le Mandrać u Voloskom, Srđana je pripremila novu fritaju, autorsko jelo kuhara Denisa Zembe. Nova fritaja od kvarnerskog škampa, gljiva i pršuta radi se u tri dijela, pa pokušajte i sami.

In the first episode, Srđana will make Nova fritaja (New omelette) dish, Denis Zembo’s author signatory dish in the Le Mandrać restaurant in Volosko. Nova fritaja is made from Kvarner scampi, mushrooms and smoked ham and is prepared in three phases. Try it for yourself.

Slasni kutak / Tasty corner

Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich Fotografije / Photos: Dean Miculinić

Osim iznimnoga okusa, medici se pripisuju i brojna ljekovita svojstva Besides its exceptional taste, honey brandy has numerous medicinal characteristics

neobjašnjivih razloga u nekim zemljama zabranjivana. Danas je medicu moguće pronaći u većini zemalja svijeta. No, mnogi recepti potječu upravo s Kvarnera, gdje se način proizvodnje i omjeri sastojaka brižno čuvaju i prenose s koljena na koljeno..

Stotine recepata – jedno piće Gotovo da ne postoji univerzalan recept oko kojega bi se usuglasile stotine proizvođača koji naraštajima proizvode medicu. Jedan od recepata kaže da se medica dobiva „hladnom tehnologijom miješanja sastojaka rakije i meda pri čemu med zadržava svoja svojstva”. Ovisno o medu koji se koristi, bio on kestenov, bagremov, livadski ili neki drugi, medica će biti različite boje, od zagasite do zlatnožute. Poneki će proizvođač u medicu dodati i malo cimeta. Onaj u Gorskom kotaru imat će svoj tajni dodatak kao i onaj u Primorju ili na otoku. Pravila nema, no jedno je najvažnije – uživanje u ispijanju.

Medica, piće dobre volje Postupak serviranja jednako je važan kao i proces stvaranja. Punoća okusa najbolje će doći do izražaja posluživanjem medice u hladnoj čašici. Iako se ne preporučuje, alternativa hladnoj čašici može biti medica rashlađena do točke ledišta. No, složit će se svi koji su je ikad pili, medica je najbolja i najukusnija natočena u čašicu od leda. Kako god servirana bila, predstavlja savršen aperitiv ili digestiv svakom jelu. Rijetka su domaćinstva koja u kući nemaju ili nisu imala barem jednu bocu medice. Bilo u vrhunskom restoranu, konobi ili hotelu, medica će se uvijek naći kao piće dobrodošlice svakom tko je spreman probati čarobni napitak našega kraja.

Melem za nepce, zdravlje za tijelo

Med koji opaja

Honey that makes you tipsy

Od Rimljana do danas...

From Roman times to the present day...

Liker od meda, medova rakija, medena rakija, medovača, medna rakija, medica, samo je dio naziva za danas možda najrasprostranjeniju i najomiljeniju rakiju u Hrvatskoj. Prvi gutljaji ovog prirodnog likera ispijeni su još u doba starih Rimljana, a pojedini zapisi svjedoče o medici kao jednom od najstarijih alkoholnih pića. Još za vrijeme srednjeg vijeka siromašni su pučani tražeći hranu u šumama nailazili na izdubljena debla u kojima bi pčele u napuštenim košnicama ostavljale i do nekoliko stotina kilograma meda. O važnosti medice i meda govori i podatak da su te proizvode, zbog svojih svojstava, na dvoru mijenjali za čisto zlato. Vremenom je jačala proizvodnja pive i votke, a medica je iz nepoznatih i

Liker od meda, medova rakija, medena rakija, medovača, medna rakija, medica...and all the other different names the Croatians give to honey brandy, which today is the most diffused and preferred brandy in Croatia. The first sips of this natural liqueur were already being drunk in Roman times and some sources prove that medica was one of the oldest alcoholic drinks. During the Middle Ages, poor common people in search of food in the forests came upon holes in trees where bees, had deserted their hives, and left up several kilograms of honey. The importance of honey brandy and honey itself can be proved by data stating that these products, thanks to their

Osim iznimnoga okusa, medici se pripisuju i brojna ljekovita svojstva. Iako nije medicinski dokazano, naši su stari nerijetko tegobe s cirkulacijom, lošom prehranom, gubitkom apetita rješavali čašicom medice. Njome su se ublažavale upale grla, njegovala pluća kao i dišni organi. Upravo zato danas proizvođači medice ovo piće naših krajeva nude milijunima turista. Natočena i zapakirana u slikovite male izdužene bočice, medicu kao suvenir moguće je pronaći u svakom trgovačkom centru, suvenirnici ili obiteljskom gospodarstvu. Biti gost našega grada ili kraja i ne probati medicu, bila bi šteta, no svi oni koji su bili u Rijeci, a nisu sa sobom ponijeli uspomenu na kušanje pića od meda, imaju odličan razlog za povratak. Dvaput je vrlo teško napraviti istu pogrješku.

characteristics, were often exchanged for pure gold at court. Whilst the production of beer and vodka strengthened over time, honey brandy, for unknown and unexplained reasons was banned in some countries. Today, honey brandy is available in most countries around the world. Numerous recipes however, originate precisely from the Kvarner area, where production methods and the proportions of ingredients have been carefully preserved and passed down from generation to generation.

Hundreds of recipes – one drink There is not a universal recipe on which the hundreds of producers who have been making honey brandy for generations might agree. One of the recipes indicates that honey brandy was produced using the “cold technology of mixing brandy and honey so that the honey keeps would maintain its characteristics”. Depending on the type of honey used, chestnut, acacia, meadow or other types, the resulting brandy will have a different colour, from dusky to golden yellow. Some producers add cinnamon to the brandy too. Brandies from the Gorski kotar mountain area have their own secret ingredient as do those from the Littoral area or those from the islands. There are no rules, but one thing is of utmost importance – that there is pleasure when drinking it.

Honey brandy, a drink of good will The same importance is given both to the process of making and to the process of serving the drink. The fullness of taste may be best expressed by serving the honey brandy in a frozen shot glass. Even if it is not recommended, an alternative to a cold glass might be a honey brandy cooled at the freezing point. However, everyone drinking it will confirm that honey brandy served in an ice-cold glass is the best and tastiest option. Regardless of the way it is served, it represents a perfect aperitif and digestive for every meal. Rare are the houses that do not have at least one bottle of honey brandy. In an exclusive restaurant, in a tavern or in a hotel, honey brandy will always be there as a welcome drink for anyone ready to taste this magical drink from our area.

A balsam for the palate, healthy for the body Besides its exceptional taste, honey brandy has numerous medicinal characteristics. Although it has never been proved by medicine, our ancestors often solved their circulation, poor Diet and loss of appetite problems with a glass of honey brandy. Throat infections were alleviated with it and lung and respiratory organs were cured too. These are just some of the values of the brandy that today's local honey brandy producers present and offer to millions of tourists. Poured and packaged in picturesque small and elongated bottles, honey brandy is a souvenir that can be found in every shopping centre, souvenir shop, and family run agrotourism. It would be a pity to visit our town or area and not taste this nectar, though all those who have been to Rijeka and have not taken a souvenir of the taste of this honey drink home with them, have the perfect reason to come back. It is hard to make the same mistake twice.

Press clipping - Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us Katastrofu, despotizam, razaranje, odlaske: Rijeka ima sve!

Disaster, despotism, destruction and departures: Rijeka got it covered!

http://www.trainsonthebrain.com/

Možda razglednica i nije toliko lijepa, ali Rijeka koja mi je pružila prvi dojam o Hrvatskoj, ima očaravajuću, poprilično tamnu prošlost, ali i jedan živahan karakter. Katastrofa, despotizam, razaranje i odlasci: Rijeka je godinama tomu bila svjedok.

It may not be picture postcard pretty but Rijeka, which provided me with my first experience of Croatia, has plenty of fascinating, rather dark, history and a lively charm. Disaster, despotism, destruction and departures: Rijeka has seen it all over the years.

Nekoliko zanimljivih tvrdnji o gradu doista su mračne. Na primjer, nakon što je 1919. godine Rijeku okupirao talijanski nacionalist i pjesnik Gabriele d'Annunzio, koji je kasnije inspirirao Mussolinijevu karijeru, grad je postao kolijevkom fašizma.

Several of its interesting claims to fame are a touch macabre. For instance it became the birthplace of Fascism, when invaded by Italian Nationalist poet Gabriele d'Annunzio in 1919 who later inspired the career of Mussolini.

Rijeka je također i dom torpedu. Nakon što su 1886. godine proizvedeni prvi prototipi za izgradnju gigantskog katapulta, britanski inženjer Robert Whitehead je pozvan da vodi tvornicu torpeda. Postoje planovi da se u budućnosti tvornica pretvori u turističku atrakciju.

It’s also the home of the torpedo. British engineer Robert Whitehead was recruited to run the factory in 1866, after initial prototypes were based on constructing a giant catapult (honestly!). There are plans to transform the factory into a visitor attraction in the future.

Najzanimljivije, Rijeka je bila i jedna od glavnih luka iz koje su iseljenici odlazili za Sjedinjene Američke Države. Među onima koji su pronašli svoj put ka Novom svijetu našli su se i njujorški gradonačelnik Fiorello La Guardia i glumac koji je glumio Tarzana, Johnny Weissmuller.

Most interestingly, it was also one of the main ports where emigrants to the United States departed from. Those, from all over Eastern Europe, who found their passage to the new World included New York Mayor Fiorello La Guardia (you may recognise the name from the airport) and Tarzan actor Johnny Weissmuller.

...Odsjeo sam u Hotelu Bonavia i svima ga toplo preporučam. Iako glasi za poslovni hotel, idealan je izbor za kratki boravak u gradu jer se nalazi na samo nekoliko koraka od Korza i na maloj udaljenosti od svih gradskih znamenitosti.

...I was a guest of Hotel Bonavia and am pleased to recommend it whole heartedly. Although marketed as a business hotel, it really is perfect for a short stay in the city, being steps from the Korzo and within short walking distance to everything worth seeing.

Being in the very heart of Rijeka, Grand Hotel Bonavia is the life line of business travellers. Our state of the art Business centre Grand Hotel Bonavia - in business since 1876.

Being in the very heart of Rijeka, Grand Hotel Bonavia is the life line of business travellers. Our state of the art Business centre Fotografija / Photo: TZ Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board

Grand Hotel Bonavia - in business since 1876. www.alh.hr