VOLUME 1 - NO 9 - 2009 | Rp. 48.000
Old World Charm | Food & Wine New Destinations | Fine English China
10. 30. 16.
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Contents 10. CARLA PETZOLD-BECK
The new GM of The Legian has worked in France, America, Germany, Central America and Malaysia. She is very happy to bring all those influences to Bali.
16. THE FRENCH CONNECTION
We meet Gerald Genson, who hails from the South of France and is now bringing serious French cooking technique to Jakarta
30. WINE SPAIN
Our wine expert Roy Moorfield travels to the Spanish countryside to find the best vintages they are producing. He also stumbled on some great country hotels and some excellent food.
40. MARQUE
This restaurant is winning awards right and left for its fine French food. As is its chef and owner Mark Best. We pay him a visit in Sydney
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Contents 44. CHAMELEON
Another little piece of Europe comes to Jakarta in the form of the city’s first bar and bistro that specializes in boutique beer
48. WEDGWOOD
Possibly the best-known name in the world for fine China and porcelain. The groovy new designs are now in Jakarta, along with those ever popular classics
56.THE ART HOTEL
The Kempinski in the Czech capital of Prague is not just a place to stay, it is a centre for the arts in itself
60. ROYAL BRUSSELS
We pay a visit to the Grand Palace in Belgium, now open to the public
EDITORIAL
VIVA ASIA welcomes you to the Europe edition.
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lthough it is regarded as the ‘old world’ it is in a constant state of change, good and bad, to compete with the ‘new world.’
Politics, economic crises and attempts at a serious union aside, much of the change comes in the enjoyable arena of food, wine, hotels, restaurants and tourism in general. This month we bring you a little taste of what’s new – dining in Denmark, for example, not usually considered a gourmet destination but great fun, nevertheless. Roy Moorfield takes us to Spain on a taste-test of wine and local food. And we look at something the old world actually acquired from Asia – fine bone China. And that is available right here in Jakarta. Often considered the world’s finest cuisine style: French food is alive and well in Indonesia, as is Spanish and German and Italian. And we even find a little bit of France in Sydney. Restaurant Emilie is a gem in Jakarta and they don’t pretend to be anything else but French. Then we tell you about the Spanish influence in Bali. Along the way we meet two new players on the island, both bringing a little bit of Europe with them. The closest thing to ‘Europe’ to this archipelago is Darwin, in the top end of Australia but on this whirlwind tour, you will find Europe has been enriched by many parts of Asia. We hope you will enjoy the food and travel around Europe where, at this time of fiscal fragility, you will find quite a few bargains.
Graham Pearce
It is interesting history that the Europeans took the invention of porcelain from China. They reproduced it very well, especially with names like Sevres and Rosenthal. Across the Channel in Britain, the premier name in fine China is, of course, Wedgwood. It is therefore fascinating that in their newest range, designer Jasper Conran has returned to the Orient for inspiration - this line is called Chinoiserie.
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PERSONALITY
I
n old-fashioned times, Ms. Petzold-Beck would be called ‘statuesque’ because of her height but contained in that impressive demeanor is a friendly woman whose approach to her tough job is no-nonsense, self-confident and ambitious – both for the property and for Bali in these uncertain financial times. She comes to Bali from the Carcosa Seri Negara in Kuala Lumpur where she was GM after arriving from overseeing the opening of Morgan’s Rock Hacienda and Ecolodge in Nicaragua. Following her studies, she began her career in Europe, where she held senior management positions at hotels in Germany, France and Switzerland. She gained experience across a wide range of hotel departments, from events and conventions to sales and food and beverage. Interestingly, she comes from a ‘hotel family’ – both her parents and her grandfather were hoteliers. And she is truly an international woman: “I was born in Switzerland; my parents (one American, one German) met at hotel school in the United States. I grew up in many places, including seven years in Singapore, so I am no stranger to Asia,” she explains. “My studies were very much concentrated in the food and beverage area. I went to every cooking class I could possibly manage but then when I left school it was for front-of-house positions so my working background is largely sales and marketing. And I specialised in events and conventions for large hotels - I had the U.S. market when I was living in Paris,” says Petzold-Beck.
LEGIAN
New Lease Of Life At Things are happening at The Legian Hotel in Bali. New rooms, new restaurant, new beach bear – and a new general manager in the person of Carla Petzold-Beck.
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“After Singapore, I went back to the States to study at Cornell University. Then I went back to Switzerland for a year where I worked in a ski resort; then to Munich with the Kempinski group and then to Paris. After that, I took a break from the hotel industry and moved into the software industry, specifically with Fidelio (the online hotel booking system). Then I joined Starwood for a spell before I was offered a job (by an old chum from college, actually) to be on the opening team for the hotel in Nicaragua.” “So, now I sort of speak English, German, French and Spanish and I am very keen to learn Bahasa.”
PERSONALITY
BALI “I was at the ITB in Berlin and I met the group manager of the GHM group who told me about their hotel in Kuala Lumpur and I ended up working there for two and half years. Then they were playing a little chess in the company and, with the GM of Langkawi promoted to a corporate position, it left a hole in the team and they decided to move people from within the company and I was offered The Legian,” explains Petzold-Beck. “I have been to Bali four times now, three times as a tourist and now for work. But I am managing to get a few hours off here and there. I’ve been to Ubud several times, which I love. And then we are going up to the North Coast where we support a local school in Singaraja. And I want to see the North East and I am desperate to see the Mata Hari Beach resort which is a Relais & Chateaux property. And also I am very keen to get in some scuba diving, which I also love to do.”
“I thought I was blessed in Malaysia with friendly and helpful staff but the Balinese are something else. I find them very keen and helpful. I think it helps that we have an exchange training program with our sister hotel, the Setai in Miami. So we have 11 staff over there at the moment and I think that is tremendous – a sommelier, frontoffice people, housekeeping. So, they are getting a life experience they would never have dreamed possible and we are getting staff back who have trained in the toughest service market in the world,” she says. THE GLASS CEILING? No matter how you try and get around it, hotel industry management is still largely the reserve of men so how does this particular woman cope?
“And then, of course, there is a lot to do here. We’ve almost completed a complete refurb of the Legian; beautiful new furniture and fittings everywhere. We have re-done the rooms, the signature restaurant and there are a few other changes we are making as well and I am happy to say we are using local materials and style for it all.”
“It’s a good question because when I first went to Nicaragua to open a hotel as the GM, I arrived to a pile of rubble, beautiful beach location, mind you. I had already 58 staff and my very first job was to learn Spanish. Latin America is a very (very) macho environment – but every Latin man loves his mother so I sort of made that kind of work for me.”
“I’ve only been here a month but I am already very much involved already in the Bali Hotels Association. Their new marketing concept is fantastic; I absolutely agree with it. The new “Destination Bali” campaign has many support groups. Obviously the global economy is a major factor and also the intense competition from other Asian resort destinations but The Legian had a record year in 2008. Things are obviously not starting as well as that in 2009 but we are optimistic that things will be healthy again by the time the high season hits in July and August,” she says.
“And then I think I have one attribute that did make a difference. I am very tall (184cms). I don’t like to use the word ‘intimidating’ but I think they definitely saw an imposing presence and they did kind of have to look up at me. So we came to an understanding,” she smiles. “I can see myself here for the long term. I have been in Shanghai, Hong Kong and many very busy cities but after Nicaragua and now, here on this beach, I think I would like to be here for the long haul. I used to think I was a city girl but not any more,” says Petzold-Beck.
“I am still very interested in food. I still love to cook. I think I was locally famous for my bouillabaisse on Sundays. Not a tomato based one but a slightly creamy concoction of various seafood. People seem to like it,” she says “And I love to make pasta. I have my own pasta machine so I am looking forward to unpacking that. I think partly it was a case of ‘have to’ from Central America. You don’t go there for the food; the steaks are over-cooked and they use a lot of plantain and corn so it is carbohydrate-rich and therefore fattening as well. So I got into the habit of not going out so much but making some healthier food at home.” www.ghmhotels.com
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HUNGARIAN RHAPSODY
TRAVEL
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The romantic Hungarian capital of Budapest emerges from behind an Austro-Hungarian monarchical facelift that hides a city of many cultures, impressions and influences.
TRAVEL
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oman ruins reveal times when Hungary was Pannonia, and Hungarians’ penchant for thermal baths too, originates from that era. The Ottoman Empire’s eastern influences, and their baths, are the most conspicuous relics of 150 years of co-existence under Turkish occupation.
lined with small shops and bars.
King Matthias Corvinus, the Renaissance ruler, introduced Humanist Italian ways and laid the foundations to an enlightened Hungary, while the subsequent German and Austrian influences gave Budapest many of its current characteristics. Yet, there is a distinct flair that is genuinely Hungarian. It’s truly a city where East meets West, but the culture, like the language, remains unique.
WHERE TO STAY
WHAT TO DO Take a long walk and always look up! Some of Budapest’s most charming architectural treats are not easily visible as the streets are not wide enough for an all-encompassing vista. Start in Buda, on Castle Hill, and enjoy time travel in and out of the Middle Ages and the AustroHungarian Empire as the cobbled streets wind your way past tiny Baroque buildings and their cozy courtyards; head towards the majestic Palace, now the National Library and various museums. Relish the spectacular views over the Danube, its many bridges – and Pest, on the other side of the River. If you stay on the Buda side, walk along the embankment to take a dip in the Gellért baths, a splendid Orientalstyle Turkish bath. For high street shopping, Váci utca and Vörösmarty Square beckon. While you’re there, have coffee and cake in the legendary Gerbeaud coffee house. The southern end of Váci utca is cozier, with some of the old shops still functioning. For a spot of luxury shopping, Andrássy utca is your best bet, and while you’re at it, take a tour of the Opera House. In the absence of Madame Tussaud’s, head to Heroes’ Square to review Hungary’s historical bigwigs, and enjoy one of the world’s biggest El Greco collections in the Fine Arts Museum. There, you can also have a picnic in City Park or submerge into the curative thermal spring waters of the recently renovated and upgraded Széchenyi Baths, where the water is so hot that some of the pools remain open air even in winter.
In the evening, try the rubble bars. Makeshift and temporary, they set up shop in the courtyards of buildings about to be demolished. They have a transient vibrancy like no other place in the world.
Hero’s Square
Kempinski Hotel Corvinus Budapest, in the very heart of Budapest, rises above Erzsébet park, bordered by Bécsi utca, the small Miatyánk utca and Deák ferenc utca, now Fashion Street. It claims the titles of the city’s first luxury hotel. Designed by Hungarian star architect József Finta, the building’s structure emulates old Budapest apartment blocks that allowed passage between two parallel streets – similarly, the Kempinski Corvinus building’s park facing front entrance leads through to what is now Fashion Street, a quaint downtown pedestrian way. Interestingly, in sharp contrast to its emblemic gray glass, metal and stone facade, and the Kempinski Corvinus’s four sides boast references to their corresponding side streets, further emphasizing its local credentials.
Erzsébet Suite
The Hotel also owns the Corvinus Collection, now numbering over 1,000 pieces by Hungarian modernists. Some of the works adorn the rooms; Gábor Nagy’s two panoramas are in the Lobby Lounge, and the hotel’s gallery on the first level regularly shows new artists. In recent years, the Kempinski Corvinus snatched Best of Budapest Awards in three categories: “Among the Best 5star Hotels,” “Among the Best Sunday Brunches” and “Among the Best Food & Beverage Services”.
Kempinski Entrance Foyer
Cafe Pierrot
Not immediately obvious, Bauhaus architecture dominates the XIIIth district’s Danube-scape, and the neighborhood is home to groovy young residents, and
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TRAVEL A MEAL TO REMEMBER Apostolok Étterem has saints and preWWI Hungarian towns in stained glass decorations above elaborately carved wooden seating boxes and serves up traditional Hungarian dishes. For a modern take on local food, Dió and Bábel offer lush settings and inventive menus. While in Budapest, don’t miss • Having drinks in the rubble bars • Taking a walking tour through the Jewish quarter before its buildings disappear to give way to new developments • Soaking endlessly under the Gellért’s Oriental ceiling, or Király’s Turkish cupola, or Széchenyi’s open air • Getting a proper facial by Hungary’s meticulous and highly trained beauticians, using local products such as Omorovicza or Ilcsi néni • Taking a cooking course in all dishes made with lard and by frying • Shopping for folksy embroideries, vests, shirts, whips, jugs, corkscrews, well, anything on the second level of the heritage Vásárcsarnok food halls When eating in Hungary, you’re likely to come across key ingredients including paprika, cumin, garlic, smoked bacon,
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visit to Budapest would not be at all complete without trying Hungary’s national dish – goulash. So, if you cannot get there soon, try this one at home. HUNGARIAN GOULASH 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 finely chopped onion 1 bell pepper, sliced 4 cloves of garlic, chopped 1/2kg beef chuck (stew meat, or shank meat) 2 tbsp Hungarian paprika (don’t use Spanish) Pinch black pepper Pinch cayenne ½ tsp caraway seeds 1 can tomatoes, crushed 2 bay leaves Salt to taste 1. Heat the oil in a heavy bottom saucepan or casserole. Sauté the onions and the bell pepper, do not brown. Add the garlic and sauté until it imparts its aroma. 2. Add the meat, stir together and season with salt. Cover and let sweat gently for several minutes. When meat takes
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sauerkraut, sour cream and curd cheese. Don’t miss out on specialties such as goose liver, goulash soup, paprika chicken, spicy sausage, salami, pancakes (both sweet and savoury) – as well as some of the dreamiest cakes and ice-creams you’ll ever taste. Hungarian wine has been acclaimed globally for many centuries. There are 22 wine regions in Hungary, and – in addition to restaurants and bars – you can take a taste in wine cellars, wine museums or at the vineyards themselves. Look out for Tokaj Aszú, which Louis XIV famously declared to be the ‘king of wines, wine of kings’. Pálinka is Hungarian ‘fire water’ and also a must try. It is a strong brandy and, distilled from 100% fruit – without the addition of any alcohol or artificial flavourings.
Széchenyi Baths
Pálinka should never be chilled, for its bouquet can only be fully appreciated at hand temperature. It is regarded as a Hungarian national treasure but ‘should be respected and never over-indulged. After all, the twice-two-centilitres, which is the recommended adult daily dose works just as well as an appetizer as to stave of the cold in winter or the heat of summer…
on a cooked appearance, add paprika, caraway seeds, pepper and the bay leaves, stir all together, cover and let cook on low heat for 10-15 minutes. 3. Add the tomatoes, stir and cover and return to a very gentle simmer, stirring occasionally until meat is tender, about 1 hour. 4. Serve Goulash on a bed of egg noodles, buttered and seasoned with a touch of nutmeg, dumplings or boiled potatoes. (And added touch is to grate some lemon zest over the top). There is another version of Goulash, this one with sauerkraut, which is also hearty and delicious.
SZÉKELYGULYÁS 400g diced beef 500g sauerkraut vegetable oil 1 onion 3 tsp paprika powder (you can take as much as you like, even up to 2 tsp) 1 clove of garlic about 150 ml water salt bay leaf 2 tbsp flour 150 ml milk 1. in a pot, gently fry diced onion and diced garlic in a little vegetable oil 2. add meat and continue to cook until the meat is turning brown 3. add the sauerkraut (rinsed if you like) 4. bring to a boil 5. add the paprika and the bay leaf 6. reduce heat, cover and let simmer for 30 minutes 7. mix flour and milk and add to the goulash to thicken it 8. bring to a boil again 9. serve with plain bread or cooked potatoes
CHEFS’S TABLE
THE
FRENCH CONNECTION Chauvinism and patriotism aside, there is no arguing that French food is a world cuisine – has been for a couple of centuries. But cheeky new influences (such as from Italy, North Africa, Asia and beyond) have crept into our palate repertoire. But there will always be French food! And, in Jakarta, it is encapsulated perfectly at a place called Emilie.
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CHEF’S TABLE
H
aving said all that, the French palate is slowly changing and they are recognizing tastes and techniques from other parts of the world. At Emilie, French chef Gérald Genson (pronounce it sort of like Johnson) has introduced a menu that highlights traditional French cuisine bourgeoise, blending the flavors of his native Provence with true classicism. “We may have molecular and foams and bubbles but French chefs will always follow the classic technique of French cuisine,” says Genson. Of course, there nuances in presentation but the recipe basics will remain the same.” Emilie is a fine French restaurant in Senopati, beautifully simple (design by Jaya Ibrahim) and it has an ambience of airy calm. “We live in Jakarta and the tropics, so necessarily, a lot of dishes won’t be as heavy as they would in Europe. My direction here is to keep the recipe but improve on it a little, make it a little lighter but always keeping it simple. I respect the produce and I don’t believe in overcooking,” he says.
As a complete change, he then worked at the two-star Le Chabichou in the ski resort of Courcheval. It was then back to Nice and the Grand Hotel Du Cap Ferrat and then, in 2002, he went to the St. Louis Club in Missouri under Pierre Chambrin, a French Master Chef who cooked at the White House during the Bush and Clinton administrations. Then he came to Jakarta. “Asian is the new food now, all over the Western world. So we do need to keep representing the old style and to show it is the best,” declares Genson. “Jakarta is becoming more and more sophisticated. Even in the three years I have been here; people are experimenting and there are now all those TV food channels – all help to open things up to tastes that might have been unfamiliar.” “I can see a real dining revolution happening in the next five years. And there will always be a place for good French food in that,” he smiles. To reinforce his conviction, Genson gives regular cooking classes at Emilie in totally traditional French cuisine style.
“And of course, we have to listen to the marketplace. We have to sometimes cater for their palates. I tell our customers not to come to the restaurant and not enjoy a dish. Tell us why not and we can look into changing it.” “But people are getting used to the French way,” he adds. “Many travel a lot so classic old-fashioned dishes are very popular and we could never remove them from the menu: things like snails, onion soup, foie gras, boeuf a la bourgignonne.” “I think French food went out of fashion for a few years, especially in the new world (America, Australia, Asia) and the Italian style took over. But the French technique remained and now it is coming back again – in England and Australia, especially. And I would now call Japan the world capital of gastronomy.”
Chocolate fondant.
Octopus salad with saffron jelly and tomato concasse Monkfish pan fried with curry salt, carrots Vichy
THE CHEF Gérald Genson was born in Nice and began helping his mother cook when he was only 12. He went to hotel school and then worked his way around France, including an internship at Le Mas du Langustier, a one-star Michelin restaurant on Porquerolles Island. One reason he grew to appreciate and love Mediterranean and Provençal flavors.
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CHEF’S TABLE DINING OUT “I love Japanese food, especially the clean tastes of sushi and teppanyaki,” says Genson. “Healthy, too. I am dying to go to Tokyo; I hear so much about the fabulous new places.” “And I always love to go back to Mexico. My wife is from there, so she knows where to find the best of everything,” he says. “And I love Moroccan food and also the specialties from Tunisia. But my grandfather always told me: discover your own country first! So, we still love to travel around France and seek out new dining experiences. A castle here, a country inn there. And always a delight: cassoulet in cold weather!”’ DINING IN “I am a salad lover,” says Genson. “I eat one every day. If I ate heavy food, I would simply want to go to sleep so, on a family Sunday at home, I would probably have a salad as well: and usually a classic Salade Niçoise. I am Niçois, after all. There is no formal recipe and there are many variations but here is what I include: Blanched red pepper Celery Blanched green beans Cucumber Cooked and diced potatoes Scallions Tomato Anchovy Mesclun Tuna (in the South of France, they use canned tuna in oil – delicious) For the dressing: a good olive oil, salt, pepper and maybe a little balsamic). Serve it with crusty French bread and, afterwards, maybe a sorbet. www.emilierestaurant.com
Sala
de N icoi s
e
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TRAVEL
GOURMET
DENMARK
You don’t usually think of Denmark as a gourmet destination but the Danes pride themselves on fabulous fresh ingredients, hearty flavours and a cooking style that has developed in direct relation to climate and location. It is just not, well, French. But it is delicious nevertheless – just ask any Dane.
W
e’ve all heard about Danish bacon, Danish butter and Danish beer. Denmark is a proud agricultural country, and farming has played a role in creating the wealth of the nation. But in recent years, producers of prime export articles, such as Lurpak butter and Carlsberg and Tuborg beers, have been joined by producers much smaller in size who nevertheless are adding more nuances to the Danish culture of food. But lunchtime menus at modern restaurants in Copenhagen and larg And you can enjoy food all over the country. At the traditional smorgasbord
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at Nyhavn in Copenhagen, or, even more adventurous, travelling the beautiful countryside, perhaps to find a homey inn (kro) on Funen Island with a view of the open fields. You could find yourself mulling over a cosmopolitan menu at a designer restaurant in Aarhus, or at an organic farm store in northwest Zealand. In the summer you will enjoy the first tender young potatoes pulled from the sandy soil, or during the Christmas month when marinated herring is washed down with ice-cold schnapps.
TRAVEL
SMORGASBORD In larger towns, the famous Danish open sandwich has been given a thorough makeover in recent years. Layered rye bread sandwiches are still served at classic lunch restaurants, often in intimate cellars with red-and-white checkered tablecloths. er Danish towns, such as Aarhus, Odense and Aalborg, now feature more contemporary versions of the open sandwich. This might include wholemeal rye bread with cold slices of boiled asparagus potatoes dressed with homemade, low-calorie mayonnaise and garnished with rings of raw red onion and a sprig of dill. In the evenings, the very same restaurants offer quality interpretations of the New Danish cuisine or mainly French or Italian inspired cooking with splendid use of Danish produce. In the city, you may also enjoy famous ‘Danish modern’ furniture, with many
restaurants still sporting 1950s and 1960s chairs by Arne Jacobsen, Hans J. Wegner and Verner Panton. You may also dine from the fine porcelain from Royal Copenhagen or even the exquisite Flora Danica. OUT OF TOWN In the countryside, among the wildflowers by the wayside, you will find the traditional old country inns. These rustic lodges and their restaurants are so deeply embedded in Danish cultural tradition that suggested gastronomic travel routes have been created to guide holidaymakers from one great experience to the next. Among them are routes on Hans Christian Andersen’s home island Funen; in the gastronomically unique region of Southern Jutland and among the downs of Mols where the sea view finds special appeal with naturelovers and golf enthusiasts. Although Denmark is a small kingdom, the regional kitchens offer great variety – and many inns take pride in serving traditional dishes native to their region.
Modern family establishments have now joined the wealth of historical inns that once played host to kings and their coachmen. But whether new or old, the inns in Denmark are hearty, homey places to stay and nearly always family run. Walking into a restaurant and ordering a classic Danish dish like butter fried plaice with young potatoes and parsley roux sauce served with a glass of frothy lager is a delightful experience. You will also find dozens of little roadside stalls that sell freshly grown produce. And not just fruit and vegetables but all manner of homemade sausages, ham, dairy products and even honey from their own farm apiaries. Blue mussels can be raked along the shores, and prawns can be harvested in the inlets. Wild raspberries, blackberries, cranberries and blueberries are to be found from mid-summer until autumn. (See the famous rødgrød med fløde recipe below – the recipe is easy, the pronunciation something else…)
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TRAVEL
WINTER Danish gastronomy is often associated with the summer but winter food is no less becoming and tempts more and more tourists to choose Copenhagen and other Danish towns as their winter citybreak destination. Come October as it gets colder, Danish food becomes increasingly heavy. But you will have nutritious root vegetables, such as celeriac, parsnip and swede, and wild Danish forest mushrooms that go perfectly with game – pheasant, hare and venison – when the hunting season is open. In the lead-up to Christmas, the draught beer in town bars becomes both stronger and darker and schnapps is fetched from the freezer to mark herring time. Copenhagen, if not founded on herring, drew much of its early wealth from the sale of herring stock from the Sound. In December, cafés, brasseries and restaurants love to serve famous Danish herring dishes. Rich salted herrings are steeped in water and then pickled in vinegar and herbs or in spices and cream. Raw herring fillets are fried in butter and served with boiled potatoes and a parsley roux sauce. While you wait to visit Denmark in person, VIVA ASIA visited a Danish test kitchen to find some typical (and delicious) recipes to whet your appetite. All these ingredients are now available in Jakarta, KL and Singapore.
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TRAVEL Stegt kylling (Fried chicken) 2 chickens 200g butter 1 large onion 2 cups white wine ½ litre cream 500g mushrooms Salt, pepper. Wash and cut chickens into pieces. Melt butter in a pot, and brown the onion and the chicken pieces. Add white wine and boil at low simmer until done, 30-45 minutes. Add cream and cleaned mushrooms. Continue simmering another 10 minutes. Thicken with flour and season.
Agurke salad (Sliced cucumber salad) 3 cucumbers 1 cup vinegar ½ cup water ½ cup sugar salt, pepper Peel cucumbers and slice paper thin. Sprinkle with salt and let stand 30 minutes. Squeeze cucumbers in your hand so all juice goes away and place dry cucumber in a glass jar. Mix vinegar with water and sugar, salt and pepper and pour over cucumber. Let stand 3-4 hours. This is a very delicious salad with meat and open sandwiches.
Kold kartoffelsalat (Cold potato salad) 3 cups cubed cooked potatoes 1 cup mayonnaise 1 tbsp chopped onion pepper ½ cup cut celery 1/3 cup chopped pickles 1 tsp salt 2 hard boiled eggs for topping Place mayonnaise in bowl and add onion, salt, dash of pepper. Mix well. Add celery, pickles and potatoes, mix again. Decorate with slices of hardboiled eggs.
Hvid Sovs (White sauce) 2 tbsp butter 2 tbsp flour 1 cup milk salt, pepper Melt margarine in sauce pan, add flour, stir smooth. Add milk slowly, stirring continuously over low heat. Let boil for 6 minutes and season with salt and pepper.
Sildesalat (Herring salad) 1 cup pickled herring 1 onion 1 apple 1 cup pickled beets 1 tsp sugar ½ tsp salt ½ tsp pepper 2 cups white sauce
Sildesalat (Another version of herring salad given to use by a Danish diplomat who says even amateur cooks will know the quantity of the ingredients…) Sour cream Mayonnaise Salt & Pepper Curry Powder Lemon juice Fresh dill French mustard 1 apple, chopped 1 onion, finely chopped Horseradish Hard boiled egg 1 chopped capsicum Herring, drained Combine ingredients and serve in a bowl sprinkled with chives.
Danish blue cheese salad 1 lettuce 1 bunch thinly sliced radish ½ cup thinly sliced cucumber 1 sweet onion, thinly sliced 100g Danish blue cheese, crumbled Pinch of salt, pepper & sugar pinch dry mustard 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 4 tbsp vegetable oil
Rød grød med fløde (Red fruit with cream)
½k red currents ½k raspberries ½ k black currants ¾ cup cornstarch blanched almonds 1 - 2 cups sugar Rinse fruit and place in pot with cold water enough to cover. Cook until fruit is soft. Place a cloth over a sieve and pour juice and berries through. Squeeze all juice out of berries in cloth. Pour juice into clean pot and bring to a boil with sugar. Mix cornstarch with a little water and add to juice, stirring constantly. Let boil two minutes. Remove from stove. 1 cinnamon stick may be added to berries when they cook or 1/2 vanilla bean may be added after removed from stove. When cold, ladle into individual plates, sprinkle with sugar and pour cream on top to taste.
Wash and dry the lettuce and place in a serving bowl. Add radishes, cucumber, and onion. Sprinkle with the blue cheese. In a small bowl, mix together the salt, pepper, mustard, sugar, and vinegar. Whisk in the salad oil. Pour over salad.
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FOOD
HOTEL RUSSIE L
ocated in the heart of Rome between the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo on the Via del Babuino, the five-star Hotel de Russie is within easy walking distance of The Vatican City, Piazza Navona, the Trevi Fountain and some of the worlds best fashion boutiques. The hotel is home to stunning and extensive, terraced gardens and the charming setting of the ‘Secret Garden’ is today the domain of Nazzareno Menghini, Executive Chef of the hotel’s restaurant, Le Jardin de Russie. The restaurant offers a classic Italian gastronomic experience. Nazzareno’s dishes are colourful and fragrant, inspired by the ingredients and the aromatic smells of the Mediterranean. His cooking is finely balanced, always using fresh, Italian seasonal produce. His style, at times surprisingly simple, never loses sight of the primary ingredient being used but always offering interesting interpretations of well-known dishes.
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FOOD
Spicy Rack of Lamb with Sweet and Sour Caponatina Serves four Ingredients: 1-1/2 lbs rack of lamb (best end of neck) Handful of mixed spices (cardamom, pepper, juniper berries, coriander) 1 unpeeled garlic clove 1 shallot Extra virgin olive oil Salt to taste 1 cup cooked lamb juices 4 baby bell peppers 1 large bell pepper 2 courgettes 1 aubergine 1/2 cup pine nuts 2 tablespoons raisins 1 glass white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar Extra virgin olive oil Method: • Scrape clean the cutlet bones, score the fat part of the lamb with a knife so that it will be crunchy when cooked • In a cast-iron pan, brown the meat in a Melting Chocolate Cakelets Serves six Ingredients: 1/4 lb Caribbean dark, unsweetened chocolate 1/4 lb butter 2 tablespoons plain white flour 3 eggs 1 cup fine sugar Butter and semolina to grease ramekins 6 tinfoil ramekins
little extra virgin olive oil together with the spices, garlic and shallot • Bake in a medium oven (180°) for about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside Slice the meat onto a serving dish and serve with its own gravy and the caponatina. For the Caponatina: • Clean the large bell pepper and aubergine and cut into cubes • Wash the courgettes and dice, discarding the seeds • In a non-stick pan, toss each vegetable separately in a little olive oil as different cooking times are required. Drain the vegetables of any excess fat • In a large steel pan, caramelise the sugar and drench with white wine vinegar so as to form a dense syrup • Add the vegetables, raisins and the previously toasted pine nuts • Clean and wash the baby bell peppers and drop them into the deep fat fryer • Drain them of excess fat, cut open the top and fill with the nutty vegetable-fruit mixture, known as a caponatina.
Method: • Melt chocolate together with the butter • Fold in the egg yolks, sugar and flour and blend until the mixture is smooth • Whisk the egg whites until stiff and add to the chocolate mixture • Grease the ramekins with butter and sprinkle with a film of semolina to prevent sticking • Fill with the chocolate mixture and chill in the refrigerator for one hour • To set, bake in a medium-hot oven (200°) for six to seven minutes
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FOOD
‘Orecchiette’ Pasta with Fresh Clams and Courgette Flower Sauce Serves four Ingredients: 2 lbs fresh clams 1 clove garlic 1 chopped shallot A sprig of thyme Parsley A glass of dry white wine 1 courgette 1/2 cup tomato pulp 16 courgette flowers Extra virgin olive oil 1/2 cup fish stock Sauté of Tender Young Vegetables Flavoured with Black Truffles Serves four Ingredients: 1/4 lb baby carrots 1/4 lb tiny corn cobs 1/4 lb small turnips 1/4 lb snow peas 1/4 lb asparagus 1/4 lb baby leeks 1/4 lb fennel 1/4 cup grated black truffle Extra virgin olive oil 1 pint vegetable stock 1 chopped shallot 1 clove garlic 2 sheets filo pastry Method: • Clean and wash all vegetables • Blanch in salt water to which a little lemon juice has been added • In a pan, gently simmer the shallot, garlic and previously grated truffle • Add the vegetables • Gradually add the vegetable stock and allow to cook for ten minutes • On a floured surface, roll out the filo pastry into several layers and bake in a hot oven (220-230°) for about ten minutes • Allow the wafers to cool, then gently form into a cup shape • Fix this cup to the serving dish with a small dab of creamed potato, an excellent natural ‘glue’ in cooking • Arrange the vegetable strips tastefully upright inside the cup
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Orecchiette (‘small ears’) pasta 8 oz flour 2 oz durum wheat flour 2 cups water 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil Method: • Clean the clams carefully under running water • To open, cook them gently in a pan with the olive oil, shallot, thyme and parsley • Add the white wine and fish stock, cover the pan and continue cooking until most of the clams open, discarding those that remain shut • Remove the clams from their shells and strain the pan juices • Slice the courgette into fine strips and shred the courgette flowers, removing the stalks • Cook over a low heat in a large frying pan with a little extra virgin olive oil • Add the clams, the juices in which they have been cooked and the tomato pulp, roughly chopped • Add the drained orecchiette pasta, previously cooked in a large pan of salted water, trickle on a little olive oil and toss over a vigorous heat, mixing well together For the Orecchiette: • Working on a cool slab, form the flour into a pyramid shape and add water and olive oil • Mix and knead to form a dough and allow to stand for half an hour • Pull pieces from the dough, roll them into small 1/2” balls and, using a knife, flatten and twist each one to form a ‘little ear’ shape
FEATURE Le MuCEM (Musée des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée) by Rudy Ricciottix
Les arène d’Arles durant La féria du riz, by Christian Lacroix
Cezanne Expo La cité radieuse vue by Stephan Muntaner
CITY OF
CULTURE
It is a move that has worked extremely well in Europe: to name a city usually not known for its sophistication as a City of Culture for a year. Liverpool and Glasgow, for example. It has just announced that in 2013, it will be Marseilles. Four years away but already huge plans are underway to celebrate.
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hroughout this year, Marseilles will be rolling out a program of outstanding cultural events specially designed to, ‘contribute to the construction of a Europe of Culture, form part of the area’s sustainable development strategy, involve the largest number of citizens possible and create new and enduring cultural activities.’ The selection process takes two years and Marseilles was chosen by a jury of 13, six experts designated by France and seven experts representing European institutions. The “Ateliers de l’Euroméditerranée” (Euro-Mediterranean Workshops): a major European project advocating intercultural dialogue and artistic mobility. There are more than 200 workshops and many of the spaces will remain as permanent cultural centres after 2013. Choosing this position has led us to define a central concept: the “Ateliers de l’Euroméditerranée”. The creation of more than 200 workshops between now and 2013 will constitute both an unprecedented and exemplary experience for the whole of Europe and the Mediterranean. The Marseilles Project has been built around two strategies, one international
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(Le Partage des Midis or Sharing the South), the other local (La Cité Radieuse” or The Radiant City). The idea is to celebrate science and art – and people. And some of the events are just downright fun – one of these is called “Central Market: Cooking Takes to the Stage.” Another is the International Biennial Festival of Circus Arts and “Traffic” New cultural facilities 2013 will significantly transform Marseilles with the development of EuroMediterranean cultural establishments. Among these the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations and the International Centre of Photography and Images. Overall, commissions went to many world-famous architects (Massimiliano Fuksas, Zaha Hadid, Jean Nouvel, Rudy Ricciotti, Stefano Boeri, Yves Lion, Patrick Bouchain, Kengo Kuma and Frank Gehry/ Edwin Chan) and these constructions will obviously alter the city’s shape and activities on a permanent basis. www.marseille-provence2013.fr
English
Breakfast F
or those of you who crave a traditional Full English Breakfast you don’t have to travel all the way to the UK. Next time you are in Makati pop into Murphy’s Irish Pub and Restaurant. As well as the outstanding breakfast, Murphy’s serves 25 varieties of beer and appetizers, sandwiches, soups, salads, desserts, and an array of international foods. House specialties include traditional lamb stew, fish and chips, meat pies, bangers and mash, as well as pasta and curry dishes, tandoori chicken, nachos and so much more!
www.murphysmakati.com
Colombus Monument Valladolid
WINE
Marques de Riscal Hotel by Frank Gehry
SALUD, ~ ESPANA !
Our wine correspondent Roy Moorfield makes a flying visit to Spain
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he transition of Spanish wines has followed the path set some 20 years ago by Italy. Simply take the traditional varieties and improve them to the max. Once there, throw out the book on convention and try blending them with classic, proven varieties from France. The precedent was there as they had successfully been transported to the New World, so why not a U-turn. A change in attitude is important. “Q” once meant quantity. Cut the grapes per vine ratio and “Q” now means quality. The results are as stunning as the architecture of the new wineries in the regions. Some the world’s best architects have been engaged to produce wondrous, if not slightly out of place as if from another time zone, structures in the old wine regions. These new plantings abound in northern Spain. They are placed higher in altitude,
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not to chase the sun and heat, but to take advantage of the cool air of the Pyrenees. This concentrates the grapes by crop reductions. HOW TO …?
First, find a base and I found the perfect one. Situated in the Castilla y Leon region in the Duero Valley, Hazienda Zorita started its life as a monastery in the 14th century. Guest books show that Christopher Columbus had a lengthy stay there in Spartan conditions. If he saw it today, I wonder if he had given in to the temptation to linger longer, who knows, the New World might have been discovered by some other explorer! The property is a cluster of buildings; the largest is La Grande Casa – now functioning as a Wine Hotel of four-star quality. The old Chapel is now used as a barrel hall for making/storing. On top of the Chapel is a sizeable nest, with a large
stork in residence at the time of my visit. The view from up there must be breath taking. Adjoining the Chapel is a well-stocked bodega, where you can taste or purchase wine and wine paraphernalia. In a separate building is the Wine Spa. There are actually two spas. One is indoors, with full view of the water, while the smaller one is in the open air. A spiral staircase takes you to individual massage rooms, where you can enjoy an invigorating workout, or just relax and be pampered. La Grande Casa has been beautifully renovated, while respecting the simple, austere décor of its past as a monastery. The friars’ living quarters have been given a makeover to become guest rooms. They are large and airy, simply furnished, with concessions to the modern comforts.
WINE Wine & Dine in Old World Charm Fresh Produce, Fine Wines The dining room, the Durius Restaurant, is on the ground floor. It is a long room spanning the width of the waterway. Large windows offer an uninterrupted view of changing lights at dusk. It also opens onto a garden with seating under a pergola draped with vines. The menu is extensive, and I was fortunate to be guided by my friend with local knowledge. The Duero valley is a very fertile agricultural region, hence the fresh vegetables, fruits and cereals. Appetisers include a variety of jamon Iberico, queso (cheese), and salads. I like soups. For a change, instead of gazpacho or bean soup, I chose one made of puréed zucchini, with a generous drizzle of olive oil, and pieces of fois gras, which gave a delicious contrast in texture and flavour. The emphasis is on free range, natural ingredients. For main course, you can choose beef, pork, and lamb, or of course, seafood - cod, salmon and calamari being popular items. Dinner concludes with pastries and cakes or fruit and coffee. Spanish coffee can rival anywhere in the world. I’ve always believed that local wine is best drunk where it’s produced, matched with local food. I found two wines that reflected the region, made from grapes vintage from the estate. Hacienda Zorita Tempranillo 2002 The wine is bright medium dense colour, with mixed Berry and cherry aromas. The style is elegant but leaves a lasting impression on the palate of silky bready oak flavours with powder tannins. Hacienda Zorita Viura Sauvignon Blanc 2002 A full-bodied white, perfect for tapas; the aroma is herbal with hints of honey. The mouth feels crisp at first, then fruit and depth follow. The flavour is sustained. And from here, you might take a pleasant day trip to Salamanca, the old university town, steeped in art and culture. There
are churches, museums, and galleries at every corner. And the biggest town square Plaza Mayor that I’ve come across in a long while. Entering through arches, you are surrounded on four sides by amazing centuries-old buildings, decorated with frescoes and sculptures of famous people in Spanish history, including Franco. The square has the usual array of bars, cafes, and restaurants, should you wish to take a break and enjoy a glass of Rosado. Hacienda Abascal is nestled in the foothills of mountains in Rioja Alvesa. This boutique hotel is on the main road to Valladolid, the regional capital. Set amidst vineyards, it is clearly visible from the road; you can’t miss it even if you are driving for the first time in the area. This Hacienda is a modern construction with an unpretentious façade. While it is still a ’work in progress’, there is already a level of comfort for the traveller. And the subtle attention to detail in the interior décor is very pleasing. Guest rooms, on the first floor, have lovely views of vineyards that stretch to the distant hills. The décor is understatement at its best; Simple décor, earthy tones, featuring wine-coloured heavy drapes that keep out the early summer dawn, should you decide on a leisurely start to the day.
Jamon Serrano
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WINE
Penafiel
Guest rooms open onto a walkway, which parallels and overlooks a barrel hall. This is very much a reminder that you are in wine country. On the top floor is the dining room. Small and intimate, it offers 190-degree panoramic views. To one side to the dining room is an open terrace for al fresco dining during mild evenings. On the other side is a roof-top garden, of vines of course! You can watch them grow as you sip your wine! The hazienda is in the Basque region, where people are proud of their cuisine. While the menu is short at this stage, it offers hearty and flavoursome food, matched with local wines. La Rioja is known for both reds and whites. These are red wines I found particularly attractive. Marques de la Concordia is one of the most exciting wine projects in Rioja. This Estate has been granted unique experimental status by the Consejo in Rioja, allowing the use of international grape varieties such as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot as well as the indigenous Tempranillo. Marques de la Concordia Rioja Reserva 2001 It is ironic that in this region of historical significance where the Neolithic man once roamed, the most modern technical winemaking methods are now in place. This wine is one of those at the forefront of this drive. The vineyard nestles in the foothills of the mountains in the Rioja Alvesa. It is near the beautiful ancient village of Lagaudia, 635 meters above sea level. The soils are ancient “cambisol” soils; they offer minerals nutrients to vineyards and also directly control the vigor. As such the grapes are well formed and concentrated. The chilly night air closes them down to await the bright hot sunlight of the day to wake them up to mature further. The conditions of the 2001 vintage created an exceptional vintage. The drought in the previous year led to reduced crop levels, more than usual, thus increasing the intensity of the flavours of the grapes. The result is a wine made entirely from indigenous Tempranillo grapes that has exceptional fragrance: cherries and red berry aromas combined with cedar oak. Dark fruit and spice blend on the palate. Enveloped in a package of vanillin oak and silky fruit tannins, this makes the wine irresistible.
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Marques de la Concordia Rioja extreme Syrah 2003 Though some would question why make this to me it is a logical choice. The American market is lapping up full-bodied Syrah (Shiraz) from Australia’s Barossa Valley. The wine is very reminiscent of this style chocolate and spice in the aroma and a rich sweet palate. The young vines do not have the length yet but show great promise. Marques de la Concordia Rioja extreme Merlot 2003 This wine was a surprise and demonstrated that the affect of the cool growing conditions. The variety ripens early and in a warm vintage should be over ripe. Plumy aromas rise from the glass and that impression continues on to a delicious palate this is a wine to enjoy now or in the next few years. Another winery Hotel complex in the region is The Marquis de Riscal Winery it contains guest rooms for visitors to the winery, a conference centre, a restaurant, an exhibition area, and a wine tasting room. Major exterior materials are double sided titanium panels in gold, silver and rose, stone, and glass. It was designed by Frank O Gehry who designed Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. It has spectacular shapes and colours which look like the floor around of a Christmas tree, strewn with shiny, colourful wrapping papers after presents are opened! It’s another example of flamboyant Spanish architecture.
WINE Their wines are extremely good and can be extremely expensive. One that is affordable and enjoyable is the Rosé, dry and stylish. Penafiel Castle on a Hill Nearby are many places of interest. At Penafiel, there is a castle that can be dated back to the 10th century. Strategically erected atop a hill, it was a military castle that has survived many sieges. The castle now houses a state-of-theart Provincial Wine Museum, with wine tasting facilities, in one section of the castle. It seems to mainly cater to Spanish visitors, so I suggest you bring your own translator! The village at the bottom of the hill curves around a river. You will find lots of places for that well-earned drink, tapas and tortillas after ‘playing tourist’. We chose one with an ‘asador’, a wood-fired earth oven built like a dome. As lamb was in season, that’s what we ate. Baked with herbs, carved and served on a platter, the lamb was melt in the mouth! We were ready for it, as lunch in Spain doesn’t start till well after 2 p.m. In Rioja, there are of course many wineries; one is the major Bodegas Vinedos Vega Real de Castrillo. Both Hacienda Zorita and Hazienda Abscal offer guests a warm welcome and friendly service. I particularly enjoyed their informal and relaxed ambiance. They are part of Haciendas de Espana, which is a group of privately owned wine hotels, with ambitious plans for opening many more all over Spain. They are a perfect base for any wine expeditions in these parts of Spain. For info on tariffs and maps www.haciendas-espana.com
in a anish wines p S n o p u follow of my best portunity to ar are some e h c ifi I had the op c a P y g for Catha recent tastin selections.
Clàssic DO t noir rosado no pi a oy oma. Fresh N Albert y fresh berry ar ith w nk pi ht 06 is lig Penedes 20 h of Merlot it ntains a touc This wine co excellent 20% 2001 acid dry finish Tempranillo abernet 20% another 5 C s % ed 60 ne t lo e fruit this win Navarra Mer s y” w su ir he C “c e Pago D e colour with nnins intens Powerful Ta g Monastrell years cellarin . Yelca 80% .O D n io ct le ol . Castaño C nnins astaño S.L powdered ta Bodegas C eet fruit with 05 sw 20 s t ha ne te er la 20% Cab . The pa ed berry nose Bountiful mix sh. ancha, good long fini enedes Gar 04 Albet i P 20 O D re eg N oya Lignum on 2004 Albert y N net Sauvign er dry tannins ab C na ant fruit with Carinye eg el to an le a om ar % 2004 Dusty fruity % Samsó 30 inking style good dr Grenacha 70 t ity an fru ts d on ar M rw a fo n ht ra ig iu ra S st e Catell d ight colour as intense br Ripe fruit arom now pranillo 2004 by powder te supported renache Tem G a rr a av it on the pala N o fru D od jo go o R ur Ada rple colo oma deep pu Spicy oak ar nish excellent fi ng lo 2004 a g tin t Sauvignon tannins crea ena Caberne in ar sh C ni fi a ri ng po lo D.O.Em nce with a es Negres it tannin bala Espelt Terr oak good fru w ne er ov se 2004 Spicy berry no rzo Mencia za D.O. Bie n llent length a ce ri C ex s a in ri da Templa over dry tann n it ie fru m o hy c es n fl E k a fruit and oa Complex arom de Castilla de la Tierra no Vi ah yr S ith good os dle palate w Los Nevad ur spicy mid lo 04 co 20 e ns 0% te Syrah 10 it and oak in ted plum fru Well-integra th ng le d ure an tannin struct
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GALLERY
The Fab
FOUR
F
or those with a passion for the Beatles, a new permanent photographic exhibition in London is sure to please tourists. The Getty Images Gallery has announced the opening of a permanent new photographic exhibition space at the Movieum of London in County Hall. The exclusive Beatles exhibition will feature rare and unseen images of the “Fab Four”, from famous photographers including Robert Whitaker, who accompanied John, Paul, George and Ringo on their 1966 Far Eastern Tour. The launch of the collection marks the 40th Anniversary since the Beatles played their last live performance on the rooftop of the Apple Building at 3 Savile Row. The images span from 1963 to 1970 and include shots from the filming of Help and A Hard Day’s Night, as well as candid behind the scenes pictures of the Beatles on tour. The Movieum, an interactive movie museum dedicated to unseen behind-the-scenes film stills, scripts, sets, props and costumes from some of the world’s most loved movies, opened in February 2008 at County Hall on the South Bank. The venue is owned and run by Jonathan Sands, who has roots as a stills photographer and has worked on a number of short films, music videos and commercials. As well as the photo exhibition, there will also be a selection of Beatles memorabilia on show, including one of John Lennon’s very own Rickenbacker guitars donated by Pete Waterman OBE.
Image description : from top to bottom Police keeping back a crowd of young fans outside Buckingham Palace, London, as pop group the Beatles receive their MBEs. The Beatles posing in a small backyard in London with their instruments, 1963. From left to right George Harrison, Ringo Starr, Paul McCartney and John Lennon. The Beatles 1964 US Tour. 15th February, 1964. Members of the British pop group The Beatles pose in the sea at Miami Beach during the band+s tour of America. They are L-R: John Lennon, Paul McCartney, drummer Ringo Starr, and George Harrison. The Beatles pop group, during rehearsals in 1963.
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FOOD
Chef Christian Beaulieu
COSTA DEL
BALI 36
It is no secret that the Hotel Meliã in Bali is Spanish. And even though it is a resort that absolutely says Balion-the-beach, it retains its Iberian identity – especially true with its food.
FOOD
T
he Meliã, a member of the world’s largest resort hotel chain (some 400 hotels in 35 countries), sits on the beach at Nusa Dua. Its room wings and villas ramble around a huge garden and pool area and it boasts five different restaurants. Sorrento is for fine dining, Mediterraneanstyle with classic dishes occasionally pepped up with tropical spices, has inside and outside seating with a view of lotus ponds and bougainvillea blossoms. Lotus is an Asian garden restaurant that specializes in food from all over the region and, of course, Bali. Sateria is the hotel’s open-air pizzeria that specializes in snacks and then fresh fish and prime cuts for dinner. El Patio is for breakfast and all-day dining and Sakura has excellent Japanese food. Most exciting development is that the old Jungle Bar has now become an authentic Spanish tapas bar and café where you can enjoy drinks and snacks with a lovely view of the ocean. Heading this huge operation is Executive Chef Christian Beaulieu who is helped with Spanish specialties by Alejandro Real. Christian Beaulieu has a somewhat schizophrenic background. One parent is French, the other German and he grew up in the Franco-German town of Strasbourg. Add to that a career move that saw him for the last 15 years in Spain. “So my cooking is French; there is a definite Spanish influence – and with a little Italian thrown in,” he laughs. But it is the Spanish flavours that are a current hit with tourists and locals in Bali. “Well, it is great food for a start,” says Beaulieu. “There are some very good cooks in Spain – and there is a lot of marketing going on, as well,” he adds. “Ferran Adriá (from the icon restaurant El Bulli, recently voted best in the world, despite being virtually in the middle of nowhere at Roses on the Costa Brava, two hours north of Barcelona and with a reservation-waiting list of months) might possibly be the most famous chef in the world at the moment.” “And there is such fantastic produce from all over Spain. Great seafood, cheeses and some very nice wine. In fact, many of the fruits and vegetables you get in France and Germany all come from Spain.”
So, as a man who spent 15 years in Spain, has he been seduced by the foams, bubbles and vapours of molecular cuisine, perfected, of course, at El Bulli? “I think molecular cuisine is very interesting but it is not for every day,” says Beaulieu. “The technique is fantastic and it is great fun and it tastes great but you would not want it too often. And there is a danger that now too many people are copying it and making it all the same, this experimental food. People should concentrate on the classics, combined with some molecular food, perhaps, but in the end, flavour is everything. I actually worked at El Bulli; I did a three-day training session there.” Beaulieu (who speaks Spanish much better than the English he is learning in Bali) spent most of his previous hotel career in Mallorca, with the Sheraton group. “I really loved it there. One area of the island is full of middle class tourists from Europe but people in the know head for the more upmarket areas, especially around the 20 golf courses that are there. And the food is much better, too.” “And I am happy to say that good Spanish food is beginning to be appreciated here in Bali as well. For a start, everybody knows this is a Spanish hotel so they naturally expect Spanish food to be a part of it. Now in Seminyak, there are a couple of tapas restaurants; there is El Sol in Drupadi and there is another Spanish place in Sanur.” “It is not always easy. For example, it is hard to get the ingredients – jamon, for example. It is not made here and now it is very hard to import,” says Beaulieu. “So, we occasionally have to invent or adapt some recipes. Some things I can make with local produce; other times I improvise a little. For example, we make paella here but we cannot make it with local rice; that has to be imported – and in this case it is not actually Spanish but Italian, similar to risotto rice.”
Chef Alejando Real at Lotus Restaurant
“Our location also has an influence on the food. With such a hot climate, we have put more salads on the menu but that is very easy. And we have gazpacho which is proving immensely popular. Making these things is absolutely no problem; all you have to do is check the quality of the vegetables,” he smiles.
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FOOD TAPAS
BALI
DAY OFF
“Tapas is the perfect way to eat if you are on holiday,” says Beaulieu. “We have a collection on our menu from all over Spain: from Navarro, from Galicia, Mallorca, Costa del Sol, from everywhere really. Olives, tortilla, octopus, Spanish oxtail with red wine – there are dozens.”
“I am enjoying my life here in Bali,” says Beaulieu. “It was a little strange at first, with a change of cultures and languages but I have adapted, I think, very quickly. And I am trying to get out and have a look around every chance I get but executive chefs have notoriously long hours so it is not often possible,” he sighs.
“On Sundays, I make traditional and simple food, mostly French or Spanish. Perhaps a boeuf a la Bourguignon or sometimes I make paella. My wife, who is French, actually loves pasta and risotto and my kids love it all.”
“Now here at Meliã, people are already learning the expression a pie de playa,” laughs Beaulieu. “It literally means “kissing the beach” which describes Sateria – among the palm trees and giving onto the water. And it is great for lunch, dinner or an anytime snack.” “And we also have some “Asian tapas” since we are here in Bali: yakitori, tandoori or lilit. Perfect if you would like a cold beer and you don’t want to eat too much.”
C
hristian Beaulieu has kept many classic Spanish dishes on his menus at the Meliã and he says they are not difficult while still being spicy and delicious. He shares a couple with Viva Asia.
Gazpacho andaluz (Delicious cold vegetable soup) 5 chopped tomatoes ½ coarsely chopped cucumber 1 red pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 clove garlic, sliced ½ cup water 5 tbsp olive oil ¼ cup red or white wine vinegar Salt to taste 2 slices white bread, cubed. Puree the bread with water, garlic and olive oil in a blender. The result is like a mayonnaise. Combine all other ingredients in the blender at high speed. Pour the mixture through a large sieve places inside a mixing bowl. Press and stir with a wooden spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the solids. Taste soup for seasoning and add more salt and vinegar if desired. Chill thoroughly before serving.
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“We also have the BCP (Bali Culinary Professionals), where all the chefs of the island get together once a month for lunch. There are usually 80 to 100 people and we go to a different place every time. I must say I like the local traditional food; it’s very spicy but that’s no problem. Spanish food can be spicy too.”
Beaulieu lists his hobbies as cooking, fishing, enjoying the outdoor natural life – but we had to ask him about the last one on his CV: buscar setas? It means he loves to go hunting in the forest for wild mushrooms. Good luck in Bali...
Salad of roast capsicum with onion 6 red capsicums 3 onions Salt Olive oil White vinegar Anchovies Roast capsicum in the oven. Remove and let cool. Peel and slice. Add salt, vinegar and olive oil, mixing well. Garnish with anchovies.
Spanish Omelette 1kg potatoes 2 onions, chopped 9 eggs Pinch salt Olive oil Peel potatoes and slice thinly. Heat olive oil in frying pan; add onion and potato and cook on medium heat to coat and seal the potato. Reduce heat and continue cooking until potatoes are soft but not browned. Lightly beat eggs in a bowl, add salt and potato/onion mixture, stir gently. one bowl and add potato with onion and gently mix. Heat more oil in a non-stick pan and add potato mixture, stirring gently to allow the bottom to slowly cook and set. When omelette is set, place a dinner plate on top, flip over and slide back into the pan. Continue cooking on slow heat till cooked through
Catalan cream (the famous Spanish ‘flan’) 1 cup sugar 4 egg yolks 1 tbsp cornstarch 1 stick cinnamon Grated rind of ½ Lemon 2 cups milk In a pot, beat together the egg yolks and ¾ cup sugar until thoroughly blended and the mixture turns frothy. Add the cinnamon stick and grated lemon rind. Pour In the milk and add cornstarch. Slowly heat the mixture, stirring constantly. Heat just until mixture thickens. Then, remove pot from heat immediately. Remove the cinnamon stick and ladle the milk mixture into 4 ramekins. Allow to cool, then refrigerate for 2-3 hours. Before serving, preheat the broiler. Remove crema from refrigerator and sprinkle the rest of the sugar over each ramekin. When broiler is hot, place the ramekins under the broiler on the top shelf and allow the sugar to caramelize, turning gold and brown. This may take 10 minutes or so, depending on your broiler. Remove and serve immediately. If you prefer, you can serve the crema catalana chilled, but we think it has more flavor when served from the broiler.
CHEF’S TALK
France
A LITTLE BIT OF
… IN SYDNEY
The connection between France and Sydney is not new. In fact, the place could now be speaking French had a certain Captain La Perouse succeeded in setting up a colony there instead of the British.
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he British, in the person of the first Governor, Captain Arthur Phillip, named the spot after his Home Secretary, Thomas Townshend, who had the title Lord Sydney. It is a nice little joke of history that Sydney is the anglicised version of the old Saint Denis (say it quickly with a French accent), the patron Saint of France. Over the ensuing couple of centuries, the ties were tenuous – until the 1970s when people started to discover there was food beyond the abominable British variety. Since then, their palates and their restaurants have never looked back. There is now one in particular making its
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mark (literally) on the Sydney dining scene. It is actually called Marque and belongs to Mark and Valerie Best. This year, they celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Surry Hills establishment with a renovation. For this, they called in their original architect Mark Coulston of Black Box. His original aesthetic has evolved with a richer and more luxurious ambience. The warmth of the existing timber screen and milky Calcutta marble panels are now set against the deeper relief of matt and gloss black walls and dark wood. There is a zinc bar, a fibre optic chandelier and touches of modern Chinese art. “Minimalist but warm, if that makes sense,” says Mark Best.
CHEF’S TALK Chef Mark Best
THE BEST But, as the old saying goes, you cannot eat the décor. And it is the food – and the talent of Mark Best as chef – that sets this place aside. Best has had an interesting career: he began his working life as an electrician in the gold mines of Western Australia before moving into a kitchen. He was then 25 and the kitchen belonged to the Macleay Street Bistro – the ‘dining room’ of then yuppie Sydney who wanted simple, fresh and tasty French(ish) food. It certainly gave Best a passion for things French and in his 4th year as an apprentice he won the Josephine Pignolet Award for ‘best up and coming chef.’ In 1995, he opened his own restaurant, the Peninsula Bistro in Balmain and then decided to study some more – where it all began. In France, he worked at L’Arpège in Paris, Alain Passard’s 3-star gastro temple. This was followed by a stint at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir Aux Quatre Saisons in England. He returned to open Marque and this has gained him international recognition. No less a tome than the New York Times wrote about him: “few chefs approach French flavours with such passion and dedication…it’s impossible not to be impressed when food is this well crafted, possibly the best food in Australia.”
restaurants around the world that you may say, evoke dinner at Marque, but that would be all. In regards to Sydney, we stand alone.” “The mother ship will always be France, of course. It is my culinary touchstone. However, the food at Marque is a product of its time and place, my travels as well as working in one kitchen for ten years. It evolves constantly.” “Having said that, we don’t work in a vacuum. Australia is part of Asia so while we do not have any overt Asian flavours, technique and texture are elements you may recognize.” “As in France, this has a lot to do with local produce. Produce in Sydney is exceptional and is improving,” says Best. We have some 40 separate suppliers at any one time – all unique and passionate. We love their product and they love having it at Marque. We do things to it other people only dream of. Fish is no problem you just have to be able to afford it. There is no such thing as a cheap cut any more.” Sydney, like everywhere in the world, is coming to terms with the financial crisis and for many, eating out is the first people cut down on. Best, however, is philosophical. “Australia seems to be travelling well so far. For the future, who knows? If I had that power we wouldn’t be having this conversation.”
He has won countless awards locally, including Best French Restaurant and Chef of the Year. Best remains grounded amongst all this and enjoys being a little centre of France in Sydney where the food scene is in a constant state of flux. “The food scene here improves and evolves every year,” says Best. “It really is an exciting place to work and eat. It is vastly different to London or California. Sydney has a unique culinary identity – and Vive la difference!” “At Marque, I think we are totally unique, and I say that from an international perspective,” he adds. “There are
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CHEF’S TALK Octopus Nicoise
Chaud Froid Free Range Egg
Beetroot Macaroons
EATING OUT Like most passionate chefs, time off is a rare luxury. But Mark Best manages as, well, best he can. “I love travel, to eat, to sleep,” he smiles. “And photography is a hobby. I love to take pictures of my gorgeous wife Valerie and son Ethan who has just turned nine.” “If we get to eat out, we have a couple of favourites,” says Best. In Sydney, they are Fratelli Paradiso, A Tavola, Spice I am and Bodega. If we get a chance to travel I will eat anything by Joel Robuchon and we love Pierre Gagnier and Michel Bras.” “If we eat in, it is simple but I do love this French-asanything dessert: Jurassic Quail
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Sauternes Custard with bitter caramel 200ml Sauternes 2 whole eggs (60gms) 5 yolks 350 mls Pouring cream (35%) 115 gms Castor Sugar caramel 100 gms castor sugar 100 mls water method Heat the sauternes to 60c. Beat the eggs & sugar until pale. Slowly mix in the wine & cream. Leave the mix to sit for 5 minutes and skim any bubbles. Divide between 6 x 100ml ramekins. If you have a small butane burner or gas torch it pays to lightly flame the surface of each custard to remove any remaining bubbles. Place the pots into a heavy baking dish (or bain-marie) and add hot water to come half-way up the moulds. Cover the dish in cling film and place in a 110º oven for 25-30 minutes or until just set. Remove from the bain-marie & leave to cool at room temperature before refrigerating. The custards can be cooked 24 hours in advance. To make the caramel place the sugar into a small heavy-based pan and moisten with a tablespoon of water. Cook fairly quickly until the sugar begins to caramelise. Swirl the pan at this stage to ensure an even colour. Cook until light wisps of smoke appear. Remove from the heat, add the remaining water & stand back a little. Place the pan back on a low heat and melt any lumps of caramel. Cool & reserve until needed. The caramel will keep for some time (1-2 weeks) at room temperature. To serve: Pour two teaspoons of caramel onto each custard & serve immediately with a teaspoon to eat them.
RESTAURANTS
Sunil Melawani
Beer aficionados are chameleons; they come from all walks of life. Now those people are very happy because Jakarta has its first bar, especially dedicated to fine boutique beers.
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RESTAURANTS
I
t is called Chameleon and it sits in a ground floor space of the Tira office building on Jalan Rasuna Said – right in the heart of embassy row. They have billed it as a bar, restaurant and lounge with its dining and relaxing areas indoors, plus a substantial terrace for people who want to escape music and sports TV. They have a list of cocktails, martinis, long drinks, shooters, flaming drinks, beer cocktails along with some fine Premium Dos Hermanos Cigars. There is a decent range of red and white wines but it is the beer that will attract most attention. As well as all the Indonesian brands, they have brews from Belgium, Germany, Australia, England, Mexico, Japan – some 30 in all. The food is the creation of Chef Supriyanto who calls it Bangkok Bistro Fusion. He has also not neglected salads, soups, barbecue and rice dishes. Best sellers already at the popcorn chicken, green curry laksa, the lamb shanks, the burger and the chilli dog – not to mention the soup buntut. For a protein hit, the grilled steak is a must. “Chameleon is a place for young and old, simple and adventurous, corporates and executives, for those seeking a refuge from the city traffic by having an after work drink, a romantic date or friends’ night out. The aim is to make it a comfortable watering hole, hang-out and somewhere informal to meet your friends,” says partner Sunil Melwani. It is cosy, almost pub-like with a ‘sophisticated rustic’ design by Analogous. Happy hours are also a hit (between 4 and 7 and all day Sunday) and for soccer fans, they are broadcasting English Premier League matches live. Girls’ night out is on Wednesdays and there will live band performances at weekends. Like its namesake little lizard, Chameleon is sure to fit into Jakarta’s burgeoning social scene – not least because of the beer list and (bad news for the English) because they are deliciously cold.
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GALLERY
L
uxury Amandari in Bali is celebrating 20 years since it opened the doors of the resort overlooking a beautiful river and ravine near Ubud. The resort is celebrating this 20th anniversary with a series of special events throughout the year, timed with the full moon of each month. They will include exhibitions of Balinese textiles, painting, wood carving, photography, traditional dance performances and movies – all designed so guests can be immersed in the rich heritage of Bali’s artistic and cultural legacy. Amandari (“peaceful spirits”) has just completed three months of infrastructural refreshment and updating, including new
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fibre-optic cabling but it will retain its earthtoned Balinese village look as it is set in rainforest and terraced rice paddies. They are especially proud of the new-look library with an outdoor patio and bale in the garden where guests can take morning coffee, afternoon tea or a sunset cocktail while enjoying a selection of newspapers, magazines and rare books. Amandari offers a perfect base from which to explore Bali’s rich and thriving culture – visits to craft villages and museums, the morning market tour and traditional cooking classes and even white-water rafting. www.amanresorts.com
Dining In
GALLERY
I
f the global crisis sees you entertaining at home more often these days, there is no reason you cannot do it in grand style. And, crisis or no crisis, style is one of things we should never sacrifice.
In Jakarta, many more people are taking an interest in home décor and the beautiful accessories for wining, dining and even just taking tea. In Jakarta, it is now possible to choose from a wide selection of possibly the best known makers of table ware in the world, Wedgwood and Royal Doulton. In their store at Pacific Place, Wedgwood can offer you both tradition and innovation. You can choose from a full dinner set from
Royal Doulton, especially from their most popular designs, Old Country Rose and Val d’Or.
The House of Wedgwood has invited three top designers to present their unique take on new lines, the British Jasper Conran and the Americans Vera Wang and Barbara Barry. One of the most interesting new house designs is called Dynasty – which combines the bold imagery of the Orient with the classical simplicity of Ancient Greece. Opulent, exotic and inspirational. Vera Wang has also designed glassware to go with her china; other stemware shown in this gallery comes from the Schott Zwiesel boutique (right next door to the Wedgwood store at Pacific Place). The cutlery is from Millenia.
A beautiful plate that recalls designs from centuries old Chinese scrolls – Chinoiserie by Jasper Conran.
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GALLERY
The Dynasty full dinner setting to show East meeting West, made even more luxurious by its rich gold, orange and black combination. Note the wonderful Foo dog from the Chinese part of the design.
The lavish full dinner setting in Royal Doulton’s Old Country Rose.
Barbara Barry loves to use influences from the deco times of the 1930s. Theatrically simple, this design is called Curtain Call.
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GALLERY
Baroque opulence marks the Cornucopia line. Its colours are parchment, navy blue and old gold. The foliage pattern hides details of satyrs and impish monkeys.
Fine and fluted with a wonderful gold rim, the ever popular Val d’Or by Royal Doulton.
Simple, elegant and eyecatching, Jasper Conran’s tea set called Pinstripe.
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GALLERY
Vera Wang is best known for her wedding gowns. So, who better than to design a beautiful line in pure white porcelain with a pearl border called Love Knot?
Hark back to England two centuries ago and you have the Hunting Scene tea set.
Simply beautiful lines in white, pale beige and chased gold: the tea and coffee service called Celestial Gold.
Wedgwood and Schott Zwiesel boutiques 3rd Floor Pacific Place Mall Jakarta www.wedgwood.com www.royaldoulton.com
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FOOD
D
And today, who does not enjoy it? Even though it is regarded as an Italian specialty, just about every great cuisine of the world has pasta in some form.
It is a fact that archaeologists have found evidence of ‘noodles’ in Chinese digs 4000 years old. In 2BC, the ancient Greeks wrote about pasta and 200 years later there was writing on the wall describing it in Palestine. And there is evidence the Etruscans used an egg paste 3000 years ago.
And nothing beats it for variety: pasta, almost alone among foods, goes well with a huge variety of other ingredients. Not only that, it is healthy as well – despite the stories it is fattening. It is actually a low-calorie, heart-beneficial dish. And, as a complex carbohydrate, it is digested slowly, leading to an even and gradual production of blood sugar; it is high in fiber and there is evidence that it is helpful in forestalling intestinal and other cancers.
on’t tell the Italians but Marco Polo didn’t invent pasta. He may have brought a form of noodles back from his Chinese holiday but there was already evidence pasta existed long before that – in Italy and in various other parts of the world.
Even in Italy, they found a recipe for a version of lasagna that was written about 700 years before Marco marched east in 1295. With the Arab invasion of Sicily, came a food that could travel well. A flourbased product in the shape of strings was produced in Palermo at the time that might fit the bill. And it spread to the rest of Italy, ironically through monasteries. In any case, it is not exactly rocket since to mix eggs with wheat to come up with some kind of pasta.
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Apparently there are 350 pasta shapes, from angel hair to ziti and, baked or boiled, hot or cold, the variety is just about endless. VIVA ASIA has searched the archives for some dishes you are sure to enjoy. Some classics and some new ones. And, best of all, they are dead easy!
FOOD SPAGHETTI AGLIO E OLIO 500g spaghetti 1/3 cup olive oil 4 cloves garlic, crushed ¼ cup parsley, chopped Extra Virgin Olive Oil Cook pasta. Just before it is ready, heat oil in a large heavy pan. When hot, add garlic and cook 2-3 minutes until just golden. Remove from heat. Drain pasta and toss with oil. Add parsley, salt to taste and a dash of the oil. (Try this also with oil infused with basil or rosemary, parmesan rinds, chilli or lemon peel without pith). TUNA & OLIVE PASTA
SPAGHETTI CARBONARA
Combine a can of tuna with 2T lemon juice, 2T olive oil, rinsed capers, lemon zest, ½ finely sliced red onion and ½ cup parsley. Toss through pasta.
This is possibly the most abused dish in the world. In the original there is NO cream and NO ham. And don’t you dare cook the eggs!
PASTA PRIMAVERA SPINACH SAUCE
WITH
CREAM
50g butter 225g chopped spinach 500g peas (frozen or fresh) 500g fava (skinned) or lima beans 1cup cream 1tbsp bouillon powder 2 tsp corn starch 1 tsp sesame oil 1 tsp grain mustard 2 tbsp parsley, chopped 500g penne (or any other pasta) salt and pepper to taste Melt the margarine in a pan, add the spinach and lightly cook (5 mins). If the peas and favas are frozen, place them in a large bowl and pour hot water over them to thaw. Mix the cream, corn starch, bouillon, sesame oil and mustard together in a bowl, add the mixture to the cooked spinach and return the sauce to a low heat to thicken. Cook the pasta according to directions; drain the water off once the pasta has become al dente. Add the sauce to the pasta and add the peas and favas. Mix well and then add the chopped parsley.
600g spaghetti (or bucatini) 120g pancetta, cut into strips 1 clove garlic 2 medium eggs 100g mixed, grated Parmesan and pecorino Romano (or all pecorino) olive oil salt and pepper Cook the pancetta in a pan along with the whole peeled garlic clove and a little oil, until it is well coloured. Discard the garlic. Beat the eggs in a bowl with a little of the cheese and a pinch of salt. Cook the pasta until al dente, drain and add to the pan with the pancetta. Lower the heat to a minimum and add the egg mixture. Mix well. Be careful not to let the eggs set. Remove from the heat and add the rest of the cheese. Mix again and serve immediately.
FETTUCINE SAUCE
WITH
BLUE
CHEESE
250g fettuccine, cooked as directed 30g butter 1 med onion, thinly sliced 125g blue cheese, diced ½ cup cream 2 T chopped walnuts ¼ cup dry white wine 2 egg yolks, beaten Parsley Melt butter, add onion and cheese. Gradually stir in cream, nuts and wine. Bring to boil and whisk a little of the sauce into the eggs. Return to saucepan and stir over gentle heat until thickened. Do not boil. Stir in parsley and pour over pasta.
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FOOD OLD FASHIONED SPAGHETTI BOLOGNAISE (thanks mainly to Harry’s Bar in Venice)
PENNE ARRABIATA 350g penne 100g pancetta, cubed 2 fresh or dried chillies, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 200g tomato, peeled, seeded chopped Parmesan and parsley
and
Fry the pancetta for a few minutes. Add the garlic and chilli and fry for a few more minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook over medium heat for around 20 minutes. Meantime, cook the pasta until al dente. Mix the sauce with the pasta and MACARONI CHEESE then mix in the cheese and parsley. Serve 750 g skim milk immediately. 250 g macaroni, cooked and drained ¼ cup corn flour PASTA WITH CHICKEN AND LEMON ½ cup grated low fat cheese ¼ cup grated parmesan 400g linguine pinch nutmeg 3 T salted capers, rinsed salt and pepper 2 cloves garlic, sliced 2 small red chillies, seeded and chopped TOPPING 1 T grated lemon zest 3 T lemon juice 1½ cups fresh breadcrumbs 1 cup basil leaves ½ cup reduced fat grated tasty cheese 500g cooked, shredded chicken 2 T chopped parsley grated parmesan salt and pepper Sauté capers, garlic and chillies in olive oil for 1 minute. Add the chicken and lemon zest and cook stirring 4 minutes. Add the pasta to the pan with the lemon juice, basil and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Place in serving bowls and top with parmesan. PENNE WITH BROCCOLI 300g penne 1 head of broccoli, broken into florets extra virgin olive oil 80g pancetta or bacon 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced ½ tsp chilli flakes Cook penne in plenty of boiling salted water. When half cooked, throw in the broccoli. Meantime, heat a frying pan over a medium heat, add some of the oil and cook pancetta until crispy. Add the garlic and chilli, stir until lightly golden and remove from heat. Drain pasta and broccoli - the broccoli should be soft and broken up - and add to the pan of garlic and pancetta. Cook for a few minutes, tossing and adding a touch more pepper, salt and oil. Serve with grated parmesan.
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Preheat oven to 180. Mix corn flour with ¼ cup water. Pour milk into saucepan, add corn flour mixture and heat until thickened. Remove from heat. Add tasty cheese, parmesan, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Mix well and combine with macaroni. Oil an ovenproof dish and spoon in macaroni mixture. Sprinkle the topping ingredients evenly and bake for 15-20 minutes until golden. (Interestingly, this recipe comes from Weight Watchers). PASTA WITH TOMATO, BASIL & OLIVES 400g pasta 1 onion chopped 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 cans peeled tomatoes 1/3 cup roughly chopped basil ¼ cup sliced black olives pepper and salt pinch sugar While pasta is cooking, sauté onion and garlic and over low heat for 3-5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, and simmer four minutes. Stir through the basil, olives, pepper, salt and sugar. Toss the sauce with the pasta and serve topped with parmesan.
1 carrot 1 rib celery 1 onion ½ cup olive oil 1 garlic clove, crushed 450g ground veal ½ cup tomato paste 2T flour ½ dry white wine 1 litre stock Salt, pepper Bouquet garni Process vegetables. Sauté them for 10 mins in the olive oil. In a separate pan, sauté garlic 30 secs and discard. Add veal and brown. Add tomato paste, flour. Raise heat and add white wine to boil; add stock and spices. Simmer uncovered 1 hour. Add stock as you go but the finished sauce should pour from the spoon. Add to your favourite pasta and top with parmesan. SPAGHETTI AMATRICIANA 350g spaghetti 100g pancetta, in pieces 1 onion, thinly sliced 500g tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped 1 fresh (or dried) chilli — seeded and chopped olive oil salt and pepper Parmesan or pecorino Romano cheese to serve (optional) Sauté pancetta over low heat until the fat starts to run. Add the onion and lightly brown. Add the tomatoes and chilli, season with salt and pepper, cover and cook for about 40 minutes. If it dries out, add a little water. Pour over cooked spaghetti and serve. Garnish with the cheese.
HOTEL
winter garden
rudolfinum concert hall atrium
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duplex suite
powder tower
prague view
art at the kempinski prague
prague castle area
reception
HOTEL
HOTEL
ARTS
HOTEL
In these days of financial strain, hotels around the world are offering value-added experiences. One of the finest in Europe is the Kempinski in the Czech capital of Prague. Apart from luxurious accommodation and food, they are boasting a total artistic experience.
grand deluxe room
E
urope Prague is recognized worldwide as an important centre of arts and culture; there are over 90 museums and galleries displaying priceless treasures around the city. There are also 80 theatres and cultural centers within two kilometers of the city centre. Kempinski Hybernská is situated in central Prague, close to major landmarks such as the Powder Tower and Municipal House, as well as the Old Town Square and historic Charles Bridge that crosses the Vltava River. The hotel has a unique private garden covering 1.8 hectares.
bohemia suite
The 15th century Palace „U VĚŽNÍKŮ“ has gone through many changes before it became a new property of Kempinski Hotels last year. It is actually two large townhouses that were joined and rebuilt as a baroque palace.
Where walls offer more than Paint Art is in the hotel, as well as in walking distance to a dozen galleries. The walls of its rooms, corridors and public areas exhibit a quirky collection of conversationpiece artwork. Prague itself has become one of Europe’s most popular and frequently visited cities. This immaculately preserved capital, with stunning residential and public architecture, is within easy reach from all major points within Eand beyond. So the Kempinski now has its ‘Arts Package’ which includes: • Three nights in a one bedroom suite. • Round-trip airport transfer with private limousine • Breakfast in restaurant or in your suite • A book of Prague’s cultural highlights • Three course dinner in fine dining restaurant, Le Grill • Half day private tour with guide through the historical • Insider’s visit to selected exhibitions
terrace,presidential suite
www.kempinski-prague.com
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GALLERY
UNDERGROUND CAFÉ T
he French and the Italians have been doing it for years – they blamed it on the euro for tripling the prices of everything. So, instead of forking out in fancy restaurants, they set up illegal ones in their living rooms – inviting people to dine and pay a ‘reasonable price.’ It took off like wild fire. Well, the idea has migrated to Australia, it seems. Businesswomen Andy Dinan is already proving it a success – inviting a dozen people to dinner (of poached lamb fillet) for just $10. (Main courses in Sydney now can reach $60). No euro in Oz but the world economic crisis is certainly there and people are finding ways to come to terms with it. And eating in is one of them. Apparently, food is “a steady reckoner of the global financial crisis” and it has seen grocery sales go up, while spending at restaurants and cafes is down” in Australia. To reinforce this, a Roy Morgan magazine readership poll says food and entertainment publications are on the rise while fashion and travel titles are down. One stood out in particular, a mag called recipes+ (which recently featured an edition featuring “Brilliant budget ideas”) saw its circulation grow 60% in the last year.
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Rp. 50,000 from each subscription will be donated to the World Food Programme for use in their Indonesian School Feeding Programme
TRAVEL
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TRAVEL
T
he King and Queen of Belgium have decided to open the Grand Place to the public. It is a beautifully ornate baroque and gothic house, already listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and sits in one of the most charming squares in Europe. It is across the square from the Palais de la Nation, home of the Belgian Parliament and, beside it, the Park of Brussels (once part of the hunting grounds of the Dukes of Brabant). It was also the scene of fierce fighting in 1830 when Belgium gained her independence. In the 12th century, the Counts of Louvain built a fortress on the Coudenberg Hill and there has been a noble residence there ever since. Later occupants included the Dukes of Brabant and Burgundy and Charles V. In 1731, the Palace burned to the ground, after which plans for the present neo-classic structure were drawn up and, although the Palace was modified during Austrian, French and Dutch rule, the buildings remained essentially the same until Leopold II instituted renovations which were carried out between 1868 and 1872. King Albert II and Queen Paola actually reside in the Palace of Laeken, just outside the city, but the king has his offices here and it is used for state receptions, royal audiences and court ceremonies.
semi-precious stones, the Goya Room, hung with tapestries modeled on paintings by the Spanish Court painter, the Empire Room, the two White Salons and the Mirror Room, panelled in elaborately carved oak with four ceiling-high mirrors set between fluted marble columns. The ceiling and the central chandelier in the Mirror Room, whose construction was interrupted by the death of Leopold II, have been covered with the wing cases of 1.4 million Thai jewel beetles, which reflect the light with a curiously vibrant energy. On display in the rooms around the Grand Staircase, exuding the stateliness of former times, are life-size portraits of King Albert II and Queen Paola. The gardens of Laeken and Brussels can be seen in the background. The Grand Palace will open to the public during the summer only but admission is free. Opening hours are Tuesdays to Sundays from 10 30am 4.30pm. monarchie.be/en/visit/palace/index.html
The Throne Room is particularly impressive; over 50 metres long, it has an elaborate mosaic parquet floor and is lit by eleven chandeliers. Other rooms on view are the Blue Room, the Louis XVI Music Salon with its ebony piano inset with copper and
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KEMPINSKI GALLERY
PALACE
PORTOROZ Discover Continent’s and
Europe finest
hotels
The Kempinski Group is energetically expanding its portfolio of hotels and resorts around the world. The company began in Germany and in Europe now, they stretch from the Bosphorus to the Baltic. Here are some that will certainly pique your interest.
The Hotel Atlantic Kempinski is celebrating its 100th anniversary. Since it opened its doors in May 1909 for passengers of luxury ocean liners, the Grand Hotel has been inseparably linked to the city’s history and remains one of the leading hotels of Hamburg. The hotel has played host to many celebrities over those 100 years: from the Shah of Persia, Charles de Gaulle and Henry Kissinger to the Rolling Stones, Michael Jackson and Madonna. And, of course, we all recognize that rooftop where Pierce Brosnan as James Bond escaped when scenes of the movie “Tomorrow Never Dies” were filmed in the Atlantic Suite in 1996. From 2 May until 9 August 2009, the hotel celebrates its anniversary with special rates that include the Atlantic breakfast buffet.
This charming and historic hotel blends gracefully into the cultural tradition of its surroundings, the Mediterranean town of Portoroz. It was opened only last year when Kempinski took over the original building, also an hotel which opened in 1910, and marks the first luxury hotel and a new effort to revive tourism in Slovenia.
KEMPINSKI
PALACE PORTOROZ
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With its fresh appearance, it takes its guests on a journey through time. Visitors can pamper themselves in a hotel setting where elements dating back to the turn of the 19th century intertwine with a subtle modern style using exquisite materials to create uncompromising beauty and prestige. If you have never visited this part of the Istrian Coast, you must put in your list immediately.
KEMPINSKI
KEMPINSKI
PALACEGALLERY PORTOROZ
DUCAL
PALACE The 15th century palace of the Dukes of Burgundy is now a luxury Kempinski hotel in the romantically beautiful city of Bruges.
It has 93 rooms and 22 palatial suites, of which six are UNESCO listed as historical sites in their own right. Their signature restaurant is called Manuscript and this year, there is a special “Culinary delights in Bruges” package: this includes two nights accommodation and a three course dinner in possibly the most lavish dining room in Belgium.
GOLFING
TURKEY The Kempinski Dome is built in the Seljuk (pre-Ottoman) style, dating from the 12th century right on the beach on the Turkish Riviera at Belek. The main entrance door is a copy of the Esrefoglu Camii from 1297, renowned as the biggest mosque ever built on wooden pillars, which have stood for 704 years. This unique Turkish architecture is called Kündekari and it uses no metal, all screws and nails are made of wood. The Lobby Dome is a copy from the Karatay Madrese, a school which opened in 1251, specializing in maths and astronomy. As well as regular rooms, there are villas set around a lake in the middle of a championship golf course - which gave rise to their unique Dome Spa treatment, the ‘golfball massage.’ This combines stretching and therapeutic techniques before introducing warmed golf balls to the mix. These are rolled along the large muscles on either side of the spine and down the neck – not only relieve aches and tension but also, they say, to improve your swing! Belek is the ideal base from which to explore the fascinating ancient harbour city of Antalya, now a bustling metropolis, Aspendos with its breathtaking amphitheatre or Side, a popular seaside town once chosen by Mark Antony and Cleopatra for a romantic tryst. www.kempinski.com
KEMPINSKI
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GALLERY
Le Grandeur L
opens new lounge bar.
e Grandeur Hotel, the leading hotel in Mangga Dua, has recently unveiled its new look bar; The Lounge.
Located on the ground floor The Lounge is an enjoyable place to meet for a drink and relax after a long day of meetings, sightseeing, or shopping. The refurbished space makes for a very trendy
Shangri-La Surabaya expands its Horizon Club D
ue to growing demand from business travelers, the Shangri-La Hotel Surabaya recently unveiled its newly renovated and expanded Horizon Club. The new lounge, the largest in Surabaya, is perfect for guests staying in the Horizon Club rooms who desire an extra level of personalised attention and access to the exclusive Horizon Club Lounge. Horizon Club Benefits Include
• Private check-in and check-out at the Horizon Club Lounge on Level 12 • Check out as late as 6pm • Complimentary broadband Internet access • Full use of the Horizon Club lounge during daytime hours • Buffet breakfast, evening cocktails, and hors d’oeuvres • Suit pressing upon arrival • Daily international newspaper • Flat-screen LCD televisions • In-room DVD entertainment system • Concierge service • Coffee, juices, and soft drinks during the day
www.shangri-la.com
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and cozy environment. With live jazz daily and a full range of snack and cocktails, the Lounge is quickly growing in popularity with hotel guests, visitors, and businesses looking for a new venue to hold parties and product launches. www.legrandeurhotels.com
FOOD
APRÈS FOIE GRAS, LE DÉLUGE... Times are tough for five-star food – even in the acknowledged capital of cuisine – Paris. So, you should know, it is now a state of war!
S
o, six of France’s best cooks are waging war on the mediocre – and the fierce competition from other parts of the world. And best way to do this? By eating and drinking, of course. Some 300 chefs (including lights such as Alain Ducasse, Pierre Troisgros, Paul Bocuse and Michel Guérard) are lending their support and have signed a petition to that effect, hopefully helping a new committee raise $2 million for lobbying and marketing. The committee, although they say it is informal, is impressively called the French Mission for Food Heritage and Culture. Between mouthfuls, the committee chefs made the declaration that their national cuisine needs help and they must persuade no less an august a body than the United Nations to declare French gastronomy a world treasure. This designation, they say, will give global protection and, hopefully, promotion to France’s most famous attribute. “France is the only country in the world with such diversity,” says three-star chef Guy Savoy, who has compiled a list of regional delicacies that he thinks should be ‘saved.’ These include the famous Andouille sausage of Vire, the smoked garlic of Arleux, the calisson cookie of Aix-en-Provence, the brioche of St.-Genis and a minted candy called “bêtise” from Cambrai. (They feel they do not need to mention the famous cheeses, boeuf bourgignon and other traditional dishes, it seems).
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The group does not talk out loud about its ‘enemies.’ But anyone can read between the lines of white asparagus spears to see names like Ferran Adrià of Spain, one of the ‘foreigners’ who is challenging French cooking as the one an only. And we won’t even mention the fast-food chains that are springing up around France like ugly wild mushrooms. No less a ‘gourmet’ than President Nicolas Sarkozy agrees with the chefs’ initiative, announcing that he wanted France to be the first country in the world whose gastronomy would be formally recognized by UNESCO. (It is also a wellknown secret that he doesn’t actually care much about food and is a teetotaller who only pretends to sip wine during a toast). In any case, he is naturally keen to keep and create jobs in the food producing and hospitality industries. The French have plans to present a formal proposal to UNESCO this year – a UNESCO already heard to be rather skeptical about the whole idea. In fact, even elsewhere in France, the move has been pooh-poohed. Most notably by Le Figaro’s acerbic food critic, François Simon who wrote that if French gastronomy wins UNESCO status: “Opening the door of a restaurant, making a soufflé rise, shelling an oyster, will become part of cultural activity – like falling asleep at the opera.”
BY THE BOOK
Tessa Kiros
Falling
Cloudberries
Tessa Kiros has come up with a marvellous cook book she has called Falling Cloudberries, a world of family recipes.
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t is top quality printing with great photographs (by Manos Chatzikonstantis) and food from half a dozen diverse locations. This is thanks largely to the family and their migrations while Kiros was growing up. She was born in London to a Finnish mother and a Greek-Cypriot father who moved the family to South Africa when she was just four. She now lives in Italy.
Falling Cloudberries A world of family recipes Author: Tessa Kiros Pub: Bay Books, imprint of Murdoch Books Available from good book stores or on line.
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As she points out in the foreword: these are the recipes “that special people have taught me and that I have recorded, sometimes over a pot of coffee at my own kitchen table…” The “cloud berries’ of the title, incidentally, are the lingonberries from Finland so good in a cold weather pudding or, as a jam, with meatballs. VIVA ASIA brings you a couple of dishes that are easy, delicious – a feast on the palate as well as on the eyes.
BY THE BOOK OVEN BAKED FISH WITH TOMATO PARSLEY SAUCE 1kg firm white fish fillets, cut into 6 cm pieces 400g tin tomatoes with juice, chopped ¼ cup chopped parsley 4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped Juice of 2 lemons 2 celery stalks, chopped with some leaves 1 tsp sugar 3 tbspns olive oil Preheat oven to 180º. Put the fish in an oven dish where they will fit in a single layer. Mix the tomatoes, parsley, garlic, lemon juice, celery, sugar and olive oil and taste for seasoning. Pour over the fish to cover all the pieces. Cover with foil and bake about 30 minutes. Remove the foil, increase the hat to 200º and bake another 40-50 minutes, or until liquid has thickened and the top of the fish is golden in a couple of places. Serve with crusty bread. (Great dish served hot or cold).
TAVA (Cypriot baked lamb & potatoes with cumin and tomatoes)
2 red onions, roughly chopped 1.2 kg potatoes, cut into large chunks 1kg lamb, cut into chunks 4 tbspns chopped Italian parsley 3 heaped teaspoons cumin seeds ½ cup olive oil 4 or 5 ripe tomatoes, cut into thick slices 50g unsalted butter Preheat oven to 180º. Put the onion, potato and lamb in a 5 litre casserole dish. Season with salt and pepper. Add the parsley, cumin and olive oil and mix through very well with your hands. Put the tomato slices on top in a single layer and season lightly with salt. Dot the butter over the top and pour about ½ cup of water around the sides of the dish. Cover with foil and bake for 2 hours, tilting the dish from side to side a couple of times and spooning some of the pan juices over the top. The lamb should be very tender and the potatoes soft. Remove the foil and increase oven temperature to 200º and cook for another 45 minutes, turning the lamb halfway through or until the meat and potatoes are a little browned and the liquid has reduced. Serve hot or at room temperature.
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BY THE BOOK
LEMON & OREGANO CHICKEN
CHICKPEA, FETA & CORIANDER SALAD
1 small chicken 2 tbspns olive oil 50g butter Juice of 2 lemons 1 tbspn dried oregano Preheat the grill to high. Butterfly the chicken and push down firmly toe flatten it. Heat the olive oil and butter in a large frying pan. Add the chicken and half the lemon juice, season with salt and cook until both sides are crispy and chicken is just cooked through. Put the chicken on a baking tray. Pour over the remaining lemon juice, dot with remaining butter and sprinkle with oregano, crushing it between your fingers. Pour ½ cup water around the chicken and grill it on both sides until the top is crisp and deep golden. Pour a little more water around the chicken and grill a little longer so you will have some sauce. Cut the chicken into pieces and season with a little more salt if necessary. Serve hot or at room temperature with sauce, bread and a green salad.
250g dried chickpeas (or400g can) 1 cup olive oil 1 large red onion, chopped 5 garlic cloves, very finely chopped 1 or 2 red chillies, seeded and finely chopped 250g crumbled feta cheese 4 spring onions, green part only, chopped 25g chopped coriander 1 cup chopped flat leaf parsley Juice of 1 lemon
DANIELE’S TOMATO PASTA 12 ripe cherry tomatoes, halved About 30 baby salted capers ½ cup extra virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed on back of knife 8 basil leaves 300g spaghetti Put all the ingredients except the spaghetti in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Leave for at least an hour to let the flavours mingle. Cook the spaghetti in a large pan of boiling, salted water, following the packet directions. Drain and add to the tomato sauce, tossing well to coat the pasta. Serve immediately with or without grated parmesan.
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If you are using canned chickpeas, just rinse and put them in a bowl. (Otherwise, cook dried ones in water at a gentle simmer for 1-1½ hours. When ready, drain, discard skins). Heat 3 tbspns of the olive oil and fry the red onion gently until lightly golden. Add the garlic and chilli, cook a few more seconds until you can smell the garlic. Leave to cool completely. Add the feta, spring onion, coriander, parsley and lemon juice to the chickpeas and season. Add the cooked garlic oil and remaining olive oil and mix well.
MIXOLOGY
EUROPEAN COCKTAILS In this our European Edition we have searched Europe for some of the best looking and tasting cocktails. Here is our pick from across Europe
The drink is named Sir Peter Ustinov`s Cocktail after the famous actor and UNICEF ambassador. Sir Peter was a regular guests of the hotel for many decades. After years of staying at the Dom Hotel, the Bar was named after him and the Bar Chef designed a Cocktail according to Sir Peter`s taste
The Sir Peter - The Dom Hotel Cologne - a Le Meridien Hotel 2 cl Cognac VS 2 cl Bacardi white 2 cl Citron Juice 1 cl Triple sec 1 cl Grenadine
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MIXOLOGY
Vodka Cranberry Maltese Style
LE MERIDIEN ST JULIANS HOTEL & SPA - MALTA This is a beautifully presented take on a timeless classic. Vodka Cranberry served over crushed ice and colourful syrups at the tranquil Le Meridien in Malta.
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MIXOLOGY
l’Ange Bleu 3 cl de vodka - Absolut, 2 cl d’apple &sour - Marie Brizard, 1 cl liqueur de mandarine – Mandarine napoléon, 1 trait de jus de citron, 1 trait de curaçao bleu, Et compléter de ginger ale – Canada dry.
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MIXOLOGY
MARDAVALL PEPPER SNAPPER - The St. Regis Mardavall Resort, Mallorca
Hendrick’s Gin Tomato- and Lemon Juice Cristalized Sea Salt from Ses Salines Cayenne Pepper Worcestershire Sauce Tabasco and finally Served with “Pimientos de Padron”
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WHERE IN THE WORLD ?
of
Royal Kamuela Villas Nusa Dua
In each edition of VIVA ASIA we feature a photograph from a hospitality establishment somewhere in the world. So take a close look at the photograph above; The question is “If this is the view as you arrive at a special event, which prestigious Jakarta hotel would you be at?� If you know the answer send an email with your answer to info@vivaasiamagazine.com We will draw two winners who will each receive a 700 ml bottle of Hennessy XO courtesy of Moet Hennessy Asia Pacific.
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VOLUME 1 - NO 9 - 2009 | Rp. 48.000
Old World Charm | Food & Wine New Destinations | Fine English China