Vivagoa - May 2010 Issue by Shailesh Amonkar

GOA’S FIRST LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE VOL 1. NO. 1. MAY 2010, RS 25

From Royalty to Social Work VIJAYADEVI RANE

Shades of Goa LAXMAN PAI

`Soccer is my First Love` P. K. MUKHERJEE

Exploring South America WENDELL RODRICKS

Re-Creation : The Caculo Home SIDDHA SARDESSAI

Spa Power PARINEETA SETHI

MANGESHKAR FAMILY BY GAUTAM RAJADHYAKSHA

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With a prayer to Lord Manguesh my ‘Kuldevata’ or family deity, I embark on a new journey in the Media with this inaugural issue of ‘Viva Goa’. As I set out on this venture I was reminded of my early days back in the mid-eighties, when I first began to contribute articles and photographs to ‘The Navhind Times’, first from Goa and later from Mumbai where I worked in advertising agencies while also serving as the correspondent for the paper. After a two-year stint, I returned to Goa and joined the paper as a trainee journalist. During my time there, I had the opportunity to do a Special Issue on ‘30 Years of Navhind Times’, which caught the attention of the then Chairman of the Dempo Group and well known philanthropist, the late Vasudeva Dempo, who was instrumental in starting my professional advertising career in Goa. I was then all set to return to Mumbai having found few opportunities in advertising in Goa. It was he who advised me to start my own agency in Goa and most generously handed the advertising and communications work of the Dempo Group of Companies to me. I remain eternally grateful to his unstinting encouragement so early in my career. And by a happy coincidence my agency ‘Advertising Associates’ and ‘The Navhind Times’ share the same birthday of February 18. My links with the illustrious Dempo Group took another happy turn recently when the group took over Goa’s first English TV News Channel ‘Goa 365’, which was co-founded by me. It is a little surprising to me that Goa, India’s prime holiday destination, with its rich and varied cross-cultural mix, its breathtaking landscape, its diverse and colourful history, and the multitude of visitors it hosts every year, does not boast of a single lifestyle magazine. By ‘lifestyle’ we do not mean only a superficial and fashionable way of life, but a way of living which is liberal but not given to excess, tolerant but not overly permissive, which rewards legitimate success with the respect it deserves. For dedication and hard work in one’s profession and calling, very few can match the Mangeshkar sisters, Lataji and

Ashaji. As performers, the singer siblings have captured the imagination of the nation like no other entertainers in the history of modern India. They have lent their voices to a virtual galaxy of film stars in the world of Hindi cinema for well over five decades. Their voices have become synonymous with playback singing, even though newer voices have arisen in the past few decades. Given the sweep and dominance of Lata Mangeshkar and Asha Bhosle, their other three siblings Ushaji, Meenaji and Hridaynathji may appear to follow in their shadow. But they all possess a distinctive and individualistic style and tenor that indisputably makes them the First Family of Song in India. They have been an inspirational family for a generation of successors in the world of playback singing. Their roots in Goa are linked to Mangueshi, the abode of Lord Manguesh who has blessed this family of singing artistes with all the depth and generosity of spirit. We are pleased to present our inaugural cover story on this unique family by the ace Mumbai based photographer and close family friend and chronicler, Gautam Rajadhyaksha. On a personal note again I too have been guided by the light of Lord Manguesh and the secular spirit of Goa in the many years I have worked in the realm of Media and Marketing and as a student of Art & Communications. A magazine of this kind is a natural corollary to my profession as we aspire to fill the void of a lifestyle magazine in Goa. We hope our readers will find both entertainment and edification in our inaugural issue. From our side, we can only pledge to better ourselves in the months to come and welcome any feedback from our readers. Viva Goa!

GOA’S FIRST LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

VOL 1. NO. 1. MAY 2010, RS 25

From Royalty to Social Work VIJAYADEVI RANE

Shades of Goa LAXMAN PAI

`Soccer is my First Love` P. K. MUKHERJEE

Exploring South America WENDELL RODRICKS

Re-Creation : The Caculo Home SIDDHA SARDESSAI

Spa Power PARINEETA SETHI

MANGESHKAR FAMILY BY GAUTAM RAJADHYAKSHA

Editor & Publisher Kedar N. Dhume editor@vivagoaonline.com Principal Consultant Shailesh M. Amonkar Kemistry Media Solutions Pvt. Ltd. shailesh@kemistry.in Editorial Consultant Manohar Shetty Assistant Editor Emylou D’Souza Photographer Andrew Pegado Design Prabhakar Bhosale (Kemistry Media Solutions Pvt. Ltd.)

Advertising Tamara Faleiro advertising@vivagoaonline.com Mob.: +919850077993 Circulation Satyawan Parsekar circulation@vivagoaonline.com Published by M/S Advertising Associates [Publication Division] 703, Dempo Trade Center, Patto Plaza, Panaji, Goa 403 001. INDIA Tel : +91 832 2438999 Fax :+91 832 2437077 Printed at Print House India Pvt. Ltd.6, Datta Mandir Road, Bhandup (West), Mumbai 400 078, INDIA.

Kedar Dhume

Branch Office: Sony India Pvt Ltd, Door No-2-1-2/6(2) First Floor, Hill Groove, Chilimbi Hills, 2nd Cross, Mangalore - 575006, Ph: 0824-2455989/90

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Contents COVER STORY INDIA’S FIRST FAMILY OF SONG Ace photographer GAUTAM RAJADHYAKSHA on the legendary Mangeshkar family of singers-- with Lata and Asha striking the highest notes. With rare photographs.

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Editor & Publishers Note : We make every effort to publish a magazine that is informative, entertaining and free or errors. Any omission or inaccuracies, are entirely unintentional. Please do bring to our notice any item that may be incorrect or any photography erroneously published. Also we would be pleased to include any item or photograph that warrants our attention. We believe in the spirit of Goa and its warm and lively people and do hope the content in the magazine brings smiles to our reader’s faces. As always suggestions and comments are welcomed on feedback@vivagoa online.com.

FIRST LADY Vijayadevi Rane By Emylou D’Souza

AFTER HOURS P. K. Mukherjee, MD, Sesa Goa By Tamara Faleiro

ONE on ONE SHADES OF GOA Goa’s much loved and admired painter LAXMAN PAI on his life and work By Kedar Dhume

LEGAL BRIEF Splits & Defections By Adv. A.N.S Nadkarni

INVESTMENT GUIDE By C.A. Ashish Verlekar

TRAVELOGUE SOUTH OF THE BORDER Acclaimed fashion designer WENDELL RODRICKS recently travelled the length and breadth of South America. With arresting photographs by the author.

INTERIORS/ EXTERIORS "Re-Creation" The Caculo Home By Arch. Siddha Sardessai

LIFESTYLE Marina Ahoy! By Lt. Col. Milind Prabhu (Retd)

WELLNESS Spa Power By Parineeta Sethi

CUISINE Summer Cool By Deepa Awchat

HOMING IN From Russia with Love By Svetlana Chizhova

ACHIEVER OF THE MONTH Kiran Thapar

Even their names have a musical ring to them. Nowhere in the world has a family so dominated the singing scene as the Mangeshkar sisters. Spanning a career of over half-a-century, Lata and Asha Mangeshkar have struck a chord with millions of Indians. Their name is legend in the world of playback singing for Hindi cinema. Their melodious voices have captivated legions of hearts in India and across the world. And with their ancestry rooted in Mangueshi, Goa has taken special pride in their achievements. Their light has shone so brightly that it has tended to dim the achievements of their other siblings, Usha, Meena, and the youngest brother Hridayanath. But they too have been stars in their own right in a virtual galaxy of stars. There was a saying that ‘The Sun never sets on the British Flag’. It no longer holds true, of course, but it is equally true and will remain so if one were to say ‘The sun never sets on a Mangeshkar song’. For, at dawn one will hear an Asian listening to ‘Allah Tero Naam’ in New Zealand, while another nursing a nightcap, could be listening to ‘Raat Akeli Hain’ in Vancouver. And of course, here in Goa and Maharashtra everybody listens to ‘Maage Ubha Manguesh, Pudha Ubha Manguesh’. Lord Mangesh, our great diety who has showered us with a great life, has also given us the Mangeshkars to be so proud of Goa! In its inaugural issue VIVA GOA is pleased to feature India's First Family of singers written by star photographer GAUTAM RAJADHYAKSHA

1) Lata with music director Salil Chowdhury. 2) Asha and C. Ramchandra in a duet. 3) Asha and R. D. Burman at a recording

here is a charming anecdote which transpired from the Mangeshi Temple about 80 years ago. A young married woman was performing her 'pradakshinas' round the temple, when she paused for a moment at the spot where the holy water that has bathed the Shivaling in the sanctum, is let out for devotees to collect as 'teertha'. As she bowed with cupped hands to receive it, a small lotus fell into her palms. It seemed a miracle as the outlet is too narrow for a flower to emerge from it. She took it home and showed it to her husband. Almost incredulous, the man with a faraway look, his eyes moist, said," Do you know that this is a gift from Lord Mangesh? I think we are going to be blessed with an extraordinary child." The man was Dinanth Mangeshkar, the lady his wife Srimati, and the child born a few months later was Lata Mangeshkar. Today, as we look back, this anecdote rings with a kind of divine veracity, given the heavenly talent and achievements of Lata Mangeshkar. But as it turned out, the lotus could well be an omen of greatness for all the five children of Dinanth Mangeshkar. But the Miracle of the Mangeshkars began with Master Dinanath himself. As a child, he had such a heightened sense of musicality and a voice so sweet and supple that his relatives saw the need to have this art schooled and trained in a more musical

environment than what was available in the rustic world of the Mangeshi temple. A short stay in Kolhapur led him to Pune where he joined the Kirloskar Natak Company at the age of 14. He was such a sensation at so early an age that the legendary Bal Gandharva, arguably the greatest musical star of the Marathi stage, said he would welcome the young Dina on a carpet of gold coins should he agree to join the Gandharva Natak Company. Fiercely independent, Dinanath along with Chintamanrao Kolhatkar and Kolhapure formed the Balwant Natak Company and embarked on producing their own musical plays. The great Ram Ganesh Gadkari's plays were performed by Balwant, as also old war horses like the eternal 'Maanaapmaan' and works of later day patriots and freedom fighters like Veer Vamanrao Joshi. While Ramkrishna Vaze,the composer of many of Master Dinanath's sangeet nataks, introduced rare 'raags' and an aggressive singing style that suited the fiercely provocative subjects aimed at the British Raj, the migrant Pandit Sukhdev Prasad Kathak of the kirana gharana introduced Dinanath to the Punjabi style of 'gayaki' that further embellished the young master's musical perception and mastery. From the late 'twenties, Master Dinanath was the supreme sangeet naatak exponent, and also a much appreciated performer at concerts

of Indian Classical music - a feat no other stage performer of that generation had managed. The 1930s saw the pinnacle of Master Dinanath's art. It was during this decade that he was invited to Simla to perform for the Viceroy, having achieved national fame and recognition as one of the finest young vocalists. It was during this time that he began experimenting with a variety of 'raags' in popular stage numbers, thus giving them a new dimension and meaning. His foray into films and his recordings too date from this busy period. It was also at this time, in the early mornings and late evenings that he started teaching his two older daughters Lata and Meena, the basics of Hindustani Classical music.But the end of the decade also brought about his first taste of failure. His film business collapsed and the Theatre Company declined, as demand fell in those turbulent years of World War II. Disappointment for this sensitive musician was hard to bear and in April of 1942, he died in a state of distress and poverty, leaving behind a young widow and five children aged between 12 and five. An era had ended. Master Dinanath was an excellent astrologer and had predicted his own demise and the phenomenal promise of his eldest daughter Lata. The responsibility of the entire family fell on the fragile shoulders of this 12-yearold girl.

1. Hridaynath and Lata with Babasaheb Purandare during the recording of 'Shiva Kalyaan Raja’. 2. Hridaynath shares a light moment with Asha at a recording. 3. Asha with music director Khayyam. LATA

Lata joined Master Vinayak's film company and within months, sang her first song for a Marathi film 'Kiti Hasaal', directed by Vasant Joglekar. The 10-yearold Asha too had a few lines in that song. The next few years were of hard work and severe deprivation as the sole bread winner supported her family and performed several tasks at Vinayak's Film Company, including doing a small role in the film 'Pahili Manglagaur', a job she loathed, and swore never ever to face the camera as an actress, once she was settled. Master Vinayak shifted his production to Bombay and the entire Mangeshkar family was forced to take up very modest rooms in Nana Chowk, near Grant Road station. Here, she began her lessons in classical music under Ustad Amanat Khan Bhendibazarwale. The days were bleak and Lata took on any and every singing assignment that

came her way, be they Marathi songs or Hindi film numbers. Her sound musicality and modest demeanor were appreciated and within years Ghulam Haider and several established music directors had heard her sing. The prevalent tastes of that period, highly influenced by the successful voices of the '40s such as Noor Jehan, Amirbai Karnatki, Zohrabai Ambalewali, demanded strong voices. Lata's was considered too thin and soft and many directors and actors commented on her poor Urdu accent. What they were not prepared for was the sheer grit and determination of this diminutive girl. Lata took tuitions in Urdu diction from a 'maulvi', and she demonstrated her power in front to the mike. The dawn of Independence and the migration of several composers and singers to Pakistan also marked the rise of Lata. 1949 was her first and most important landmark year. Khemchand Prakash

“Lata’s breath control is so remarkable that it is difficult to know where she has taken a breath while rendering a song… thus making it like an endless seamless melody. Her command over 'sur' is purely miraculous, for she is never ever out of tune or pitch. ”

had Lata sing the haunting 'Ayega Aanewala' picturised on Madhubala for the film 'Mahal'. Naushad, the leading music director then, gave her the songs of Mehboob Khan's 'Andaz' and the young adventurous pair of Shankar- Jaikishen had Lata sing all the songs for Raj Kapoor's 'Barsaat'. Within months Lata hit the chartbusters and she never looked back again. The next 50 years is very well documented and a part of India's lore on how a single voice cast a spell on an entire nation and continues to do so till now. My own childhood recollections of hearing the voices of Lata and Asha emanating from 78-rpm records certainly shaped my own musical ear and drew me to Indian classical and popular music, but it was when I photographed Didi in the mid 80s that I got to experience the phenomenon that was Lata. It is not very difficult to confront the very reasonable question: “In a country of a billion people, why is there not another or several Latas?” The answer is, however a confluence of many factors that makes Lata Mangeshkar unique. She was born with a celestial voice and coached very early in life by a master musician, Master Dinanath. But beyond her divine gifts is that searing intelligence and a deep understanding of music. Lata for example, mastered the diction of Hindustani and Urdu; she is equally perfect in her intonation

1 1

1. Lata as a child artiste in a Master Vinayak film. 2. Musical genes: the five Mangeshkar children at home with Mai Mangeshkar. 3. Sisters in harmony: Lata felicitating Asha on her birthday. of 14 other languages she has sung in. Her breath control is so remarkable that it is difficult to know where she has taken a breath while rendering a song… thus making it like an endless seamless melody. Her command over 'sur' is purely miraculous, for she is never ever out of tune or pitch. She knows exactly where to terminate a note at the end of a line and where to pick it up in the following. She has the knack of filling spaces with the most appropriate musical bridges and her sense of 'laya' (rhythm and beat) allows her to play with the music, making every song seem very easy to the ear. Equally important is her deep understanding of the 'miking technique'. Her tone seems like a flawless stream over a range of three octaves because she instinctively knows how to approach the mike on low soft notes and how much to withdraw from it when it comes to powerful notes in the higher register. Her voice too has a crystal clear

“Master Dinanath was an excellent astrologer and had predicted his own demise and the phenomenal promise of his eldest daughter Lata. The responsibility of the entire family fell on the fragile shoulders of this 12-year-old girl.”

bell-like resonance ideal for recording and a perfect vehicle to pronounce every word with immense clarity while painting it with feeling. Lastly, Lata's natural voice is high pitched. She can reach the highest notes with natural ease while others who emulate and imitate her are forced to strain. The combination of these many factors is rare to find in a single person. I believe that Lata must be the creation of Lord Mangesh. Such vocal chords with the ringing purity of temple bells (as Asha describes them) are unique. Her angelic voice can sound as if it is pouring out of the sparkling throat of a teenager... As a person I find her extremely intelligent, with a razor sharp memory and a wonderful raconteur of tales and anecdotes. I have seen her at rehearsal stopping midsong and pointing out to the third violin being slightly out of tune. She once told me,”I wanted to become a doctor. But that was not possible given my lack of education and my poor financial situation. But I am sure, if I had done something else, I would have been the top of that profession.” And that is really true for she has that innate pursuit of perfection that would have propelled her to the top of any career she chose. Personally, she is very kind with a sympathetic ear and a devoted family

person. Her real passion apart from singing is her love of photography. Shooting her makes me slightly nervous as her eyes constantly follow you and she asks astute technical question be it on lighting or the aperture of the lens. Her own photography is genuinely of a high grade. Her pictures of the Parthenon in Athens, Greece, are the finest I have ever seen, far over-riding the best efforts of professionals. Her search for the awkward angle, her 'feel' for light and her ability to capture the moments are hallmarks of an artist. My one wish is that her photographs be published in a book for posterity to see the other sparkling facet of this extraordinary woman. MEENA

11 Meena Khadikar, two years younger than Lata, is considered by many within the circle family and friends to be the most

singer in recorded history. From her throat has emerged an eternal spring of every kind of song: bhajans, ghazals, qawalis, geets, sugam sangeet and, of course, a large body of work that could be termed as Indo-Western, pop or modern. The architect of this could well be her close association with the irrepressible R.D.Burman. In 1965 came the film 'Teesri Manzil' and the path breaking music by Puncham. The quality of orchestration, the experiments with keys and scales and the sheer audacity of using the voice that would tax its suppleness and its range to the maximum was R.D.'s contribution. It was a contribution that changed the tone and added great depth to the world of Indian music. Ashatai said,”Puncham ate, slept, thought and worked only music. He could draw inspiration from sounds and noises and create rhythm patterns and melodies from the most obscure sources. To me he was the best musical partner I ever had. I considered myself a vocal instrument in his orchestral team. In any case, when you are a professional playback singer, it is your duty to be a blotting paper and reproduce any sounds that a music director expects and add your style and feelings to it.” With such an enthusiastic attitude no wonder Asha has created a large number of songs, approximately 13,000 of which 1270 are in Marathi. Asha Bhosle is renowned as an outstanding cook. The versatility of her singing reflects her mastery in the culinary world. Apart from Goan food, which she considers “ours”, she has a magical touch and can prepare dishes from every part of our country as well as from the world. She has a voluminous collection of recipes, acquired from secretive master chefs or great families who take great pride in the special dishes of their homes. A few years ago, she opened a restaurant in Dubai, called 'Asha's' and later, in Abu Dhabi. Today these

restaurants have mushroomed over the United Kingdom. Needless to say, every item on the menu card is an Asha special, prepared, tested and taught to the cooks by Asha herself. At 76, Asha remains very active with annual concert trips all round the world, international collaborations with groups like Code Red and the Kronos Quartet and recordings that keep her zest and her energy alive. USHA

Usha Mangeshkar trained to be a painter under the distinguished artist and teacher M.R.Achrekar. She developed this art and has several oil canvases and portraits of true merit. However in 1955, she declared to the family she wished to sing. Family friends veteran director V.Shantaram and composer C. Ramchandra encouraged her and offered work in a film called 'Subah ka Tara'. For

“Asha Bhosle is renowned as an outstanding cook. The versatility of her singing reflects her mastery in the culinary world. Apart from Goan food, which she considers ‘ours’, she has a magical touch and can prepare dishes from every part of our country as well as from the world.”

almost a decade she sang duets with her sisters and the odd solo that came her way until 1970. Composer Ram Kadam gave her six of the most memorable and outstanding 'lavnis' to sing in Shantaram's 'Pinjra'. For the next 15 years she almost ruled the Marathi film world, singing for all the composers with guaranteed hits from the films of Dada Kondke, a very popular comedy filmmaker of the time. Yet many will be surprised to know that Usha has her maximum chartbusters in Gujarati! She has also sung several songs in Assamese under the baton of Bhupen Hazarika. She is very active on the concert circuit and performs all over India and the world. Apart from her own several hit songs, she interpolates a few popular numbers of her older sister Lata. Once, while looking at a truly beautiful portrait of her father Master Dinanath, I asked her why she does not paint anymore. Pat came the reply, “It is not that I do not often feel the urge to paint, but years ago, I discovered that I am terribly allergic to turpentine and copal oil, important ingredients in oil painting. I used to loose my voice for a fortnight after a few days with the canvas. I had to choose between one hobby and the many recordings and concerts that came my way.” Usha has recorded several private albums, many with her sister Meena providing the music, and others where she has collaborated with Meena as composer. Once while gratefully acknowledging Ram Kadam for giving her the chance to sing so many 'laavni' songs, she lamented,”Kadam saheb was probably the last scholar who knew every form and type of 'lavni' songs. We were keen to preserve it for posterity by recording a song each of the 13 or 14 types of 'lavni' songs sung all over the state, His untimely death has robbed us all of a great treasure.”

FIRST LADY Introducing a monthly column on the ‘First Ladies’ of Goa

Vijayadevi Rane

It is said that behind every successful man is a woman-whether in the field of politics, the corporate sector or the professions. But such women also lead successful lives of their own. By EMYLOU D’SOUZA

Vijayadevi Rane

olding her own as a prominent public figure comes naturally to Vijayadevi Rane, wife of the Speaker of the Goa State Assembly and former Chief Minister, Pratapsingh Rane. Royalty has always seen to the needs of people, and as the wife of a politician, her life has been an eventful and educative one. Vijayadevi Rane thrives on helping those in need. She believes that people more fortunate than others and who are well established, should help them attain financial and emotional security. However, this genuine desire to help has to come from within. Born into the royal family of Sandur in Karnataka, this dynamic lady is at the helm of two of Goa’s best run social institutes: Bal Bhavan and the Sanjay School for Special Education. “The people began to put their trust in me. After all, you cannot get involved in anything unless you win their trust first,” she humbly admits. “For instance, setting up the

Sanjay School, keeping it alive and active for over 25 years is an achievement in itself,” she says. “It was a great challenge initially, as people refused to identify with the school. But today, it is accepted as an asset to society, to the physically handicapped and people with learning difficulties. They now have a place to go to hone their abilities and become self-reliant.” Working ceaselessly for the benefit of children, the disabled, the sick and several other causes, one wonders how this mother of two has managed to strike a balance between her various commitments. “I believe charity begins at home. So, when my children were growing up, I dedicated all my time to them, they were my first responsibility,” she says. “I educated myself on the needs of the people around me and whenever there was an opportunity to help them, I offered my support. And then when my children moved out for further studies, I was able to dedicate

Vijayadevi Rane and family

more of my time to these causes.” Inspite of her hectic schedule, switching off after work is a must. Either immersing herself in a good book or listening to music, Vijayadevi maintains that she needs that space to unwind

– “me time” is essential to achieve mental growth and progress. “The women of today,” she says, “conduct themselves in a professional manner. It is said that respect is commanded and not demanded and that is what

women have proved.” “When I’m invited for village functions,” she adds, “the dais is full of lady representatives. If you observe the performance of some MLAs in the house, I’m certain that women perform much better. But, in my opinion, gender bias still exists.” She cites the example of the Women’s Reservation Bill. She says, “It is the men who opposed it. So, I think that if they mean business, then they have to respect the law and women’s rights. Women have their rights, but it is unfortunate that men cannot come to terms with some of them.” “What is politics in the real sense?” she questions. “I too came from a political background, after all. According to me, a politician is meant to be the opinion leader of the people. And in turn, he or she delivers the goods - that is the essence of good politics.” And Vijayadevi Rane continues to deliver the goods – both as ‘First Lady’ and as an indomitable social worker.

AFTER HOURS A column in which CEOs and other busy professionals reveal how they relax and spend their spare time

‘Soccer is My First Love’ P. K. MUKHERJEE, Managing Director, SESA Goa delves into his life beyond business and on how he unwinds from the daily grind. By TAMARA FALEIRO

oted as the country’s most valuable CEO by Business World in 2009, SESA Goa’s Managing Director, P. K. Mukherjee delves into his life beyond business and on how he unwinds from the daily grind. On His Favourite Sport ‘Sport is where my heart lies. I’m a passionate follower of both soccer and cricket, but soccer is my first love. One of my greatest dreams is to see India rank within the first hundred on the league tables. ‘When I was younger, I supported Kolkata because my entire family did. But after watching matches in Goa, I feel that soccer is much more developed in this State than in my hometown. ‘I feel that my love for the sport is channeled through SESA’s football team and training academy. I’m always updated on what’s happening - I talk to the managers in the evening, not to interfere, but because I am genuinely interested. Although we haven’t achieved anything outstanding so far, we have created a fine infrastructure. And based on that, we are trying to create top footballers. Our aim is to first help raise the standard of Goan football and then tackle the Indian arena – I feel proud when

some of our boys from our Football Academy make it to top-notch clubs.’ On Balancing Work and Family ‘Balancing work and life depends on ones perception of these two entities. I think they overlap in a big way. On the one hand, you have people who enjoy their work, and that adds to the quality of life. However, if one doesn’t enjoy the work he or she is involved in, then negative thoughts begin to rule your life. ‘At home I prefer listening to Hindustani classical music, Tagore in particular and other Bengali songs to Western music. However, I have been a childhood fan of ABBA and Boney M. Comedies help me relax, as does spending time with my family and dining out with friends. Occasionally, knocking back a glass or two doesn’t hurt either.’ Favoured Holiday Destinations ‘I haven’t been on a proper holiday for the past two or three years. Only when I have a family function in Kolkata do I take a break from work. A very special place I enjoy visiting is Kanha and Bandhavgarh National Park in Madhya Pradesh. As for abroad, I have been to Malaysia and Singapore, toured Europe and

made a flying weekend visit to Rome. I’ve enjoyed short holidayscum-business trips to Switzerland and Paris.’ On Giving Back to Society ‘I have devoted 23 years of my life to working at SESA. Therefore, my giving back to society is mirrored through the company’s work. Whether starting a football academy or a technical school or initiating mine reclamation, we are trying to do our bit for society. In fact, SESA was one of the main initiators of the Mineral Foundation of Goa promoting environmental and social development programmes in the mining belt. ‘We are also in the process of creating a natural butterfly park, which is proof of the area’s thriving flora and fauna. Another great achievement is to observe our technical school boys standing on their own feet to find employment. At times, they even decline employment opportunities with SESA.’ On Being Himself ‘I always remind myself to be more human and stick to the basics. I have learnt that nothing happens by fluke and even if it does, it is short lived, depth is required in whatever one undertakes.’

ONE on ONE One on one is a column which will feature eminient Goans living outside Goa.

Shades of Goa ‘Green Goa’ (1987); Acrylic, 28”x36”

Laxman Pai

Well past eighty, Laxman Pai's work over several decades still retains an aura of its own writes KEDAR DHUME

L 22

axman Pai has been a doyen among Indian painters. He received his art education at the Sir J J School of Art in Mumbai during the turbulent years between 1943-47, where he was awarded the prestigious Mayo Medal. A contemporary of F N Souza, Raza and V. S. Gaitonde, he has over the years cultivated his own style, technique and native idiom. His work has dwelled extensively on ancient Indian philosophy, religious scriptures and classical art. As he

puts it, 'The creative work of art is the perfect harmony of form, line, colour and texture in a given space.' Pai has held more than a hundred solo exhibitions all over the world including nine in Paris where he worked for ten years, between 1951 to '61. He has also participated in the Sao Paulo Biennale in Brazil. He is the recipient of three Lalit Kala National Awards, the Nehru Award in 1995, the Lalit Kala Ratna Award in 20007,

besides being honoured by the Government of Goa in 1987. His paintings are in various private and public collections, including the Museum of Modern Art, Paris, the New York Public Library, the Berlin Museum and in the National Gallery of Modern Art in New Delhi. Born on January 21, 1926, in Margao, Goa, Pai now leads a quiet, semi-retired life in Delhi, but still manages to shuttle between India and the United States where his son lives in California. Pai still retains his links with his ancestral land of Goa where he served with distinction as the Principal of the Goa College of Art in Panaji between 1977-1987. Besides the various other accolades, the Government of India honoured him with the Padmashri in 1985. Undoubtedly one of Goa's finest painters, Laxman Pai recently spoke to 'Viva Goa'. Could you tell us about the early years of struggle and the painters who influenced you at the time, who made a difference to your work? The early years included my stay in Paris from 1951 onwards. Among the influences reflected in my paintings are the Egyptian relief sculptures â&#x20AC;&#x201C;especially the profile paintings. The painters who I like and admire are Marc Chagall and Paul Klee among others, but I took elements from different painters to suit my palette. I absorbed their influences and made them my own. You are originally from Goa. Is Goa still a source of inspiration to you? Yes. I've done many series on Goan landscapes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; images of Goa, using Goan motifs such as the sea, mountains, temples, and churches. M F Husain has been forced into exile and has found a home in distant Qatar. What does it mean for a painter or

any artist to be uprooted from his or her roots? There are a few important things to note here: if Husain had not given the title of a Hindu goddess to the paintings and instead used something generic like Apsara, the entire controversy would not have started. By giving the title of a Hindu goddess, the aesthetic value of the painting was lost and the title assumed a life of its own. What advice would you give to these extremist forces who forcibly deny you the freedom of expression? Freedom of expression does not give one the license to abuse others' sentiments. What would you say to the growing commercialization of the art market? Are young painters following their own vision or are they being sidetracked by the demands of the market place? Commercialization exists because art has become an instrument of investment. It is the art galleries who are the bankers who find different venues for commerce. It depends on the individual â&#x20AC;&#x201C; how much he or she is involved in the creative work, which is akin to 'sadhana'. Do you think the high prices that some young painters command is detrimental to their artistic vision? Does it lead to indiscriminate work, where the name is more important than the painting itself? Artists should do creative work to satisfy themselves and not as a commercial endeavor. Creativity comes first and commercialization afterwards. Why do Indian painters always crave for recognition in the West? Are standards much higher in the West? Or is it simply that the prices offered there are better? I don't think this sentiment is true at the moment.

1990 Karuna (Navraasa series) Oil 60x40

Did you enjoy your stint as the Principal of the Goa College of Art? Tell us something of your memories there. Yes. I did my best to put the college on a strong footing. I had to convince the government to provide the Goa College of Art its own building in Altinho, Panaji using Sarto Almeida as the architect. The entire space in the building is designed as an open architecture to allow each student to view the other's work. This was intentionally done. The main structure was designed for fine art, applied art, sculpture, and art and craft divisions. Now, at the age of 84, do you feel you have lived a fulfilled life? I had said before that there is no fulfillment in life, there is always a struggle.

LEGAL BRIEF

A regular column on the legal system in Goa

Governance in Goa

Splits and Defections Goa makes an interesting case study for a student of Constitutional Law, writes ADV. ATMARAM N. S. NADKARNI

The author is a Senior Advocate and former Advocate General of Goa

oa, a tiny territory in India was liberated from Portuguese rule on December 19, 1961. The Supreme Court of India has judicially held that the 'Liberation' of Goa is a 'Conquest' by the Indian Army. Goa, Daman and Diu were formed and included as a 'Union Territory' in the Indian Constitutional System. We had then a Lt. Governor who was aided and advised by his Council of Ministers headed by the Chief Minister. Unlike the 'State', the administration of a Union Territory is done as a Centrally Administrated Area and decisions are taken by the Lt. Governor upon the aid and advice of the Council of Ministers headed by the Chief Minister. The Lt. Governor is essentially the representative of the Central Government whose powers differ from the mere ceremonial role assigned to the Governor of a 'State'. Goa continued as a Union Territory along with Daman and Diu

until the enactment by Parliament of the Goa State Reorganization Act, 1987. Upon enforcement of this Statute, Goa was conferred with Statehood while Daman and Diu were retained as Union Territories. This historical incident of conferring 'Statehood' upon Goa is of great significance inasmuch as while in the case of a Union Territory the Central Grants flow liberally, in the case of a State, the State is required to cough up its own revenue by tapping its own resources. The demand for Statehood for Goa and the inclusion of the Official language of Goa i.e. 'Konkani' was and had become more of a sentimental issue to begin with but turned into a matter of prestige and honour for the people of the State. Konkani, a language which is the Official Language of this State and the mother tongue of almost all Goans as well as many people residing in Karnataka and Kerala, found its rightful place in the 14th Schedule to the Constitution of

India. One other addition which is of significance is that the High Court of the Judicature at Bombay became the common High Court for the States of Maharashtra and Goa. After the demise of the then Prime Minister of India, Mrs. Indira Gandhi, general elections were conducted in 1984. The people reposed tremendous faith and trust in her son, the late Rajiv Gandhi by electing him and his party with over 400 MPs in Parliament. This helped Rajiv to push through many reforms including the 10th Schedule of the Constitution of India intended to prevent defection of Members of Legislation and give the party system recognition under Constitutional Law. The 10th Schedule was essentially intended to provide good, stable and effective governance so that it was not manipulated by endangering its stability by politicians who came to be called 'Aayarams' and 'Gayarams'. Most of these matters which went up to the Supreme Court were from the smaller States of the Northeast or Goa which made a significant contribution to the law of defection under the Constitution of India on account of the unstable governance caused by frequent political defections. It is a matter of record that till 1990, governments in Goa were stable and have thereafter been under some sort of a spell whereby defectors formed unstable governments causing what we may call “progressive deterioration” in the State. In 1990 we had a defection caused by the splitting of the Indian National Congress whereby the Speaker himself defected in order to become the Chief Minister and this passage was made smooth by installing a Chief Minister for a period of 15 days. The Speaker who became the Chief Minister ultimately came to be disqualified by an Order passed by a Member of the Legislative Assembly. The Order came to be finally upheld by the superior Constitutional courts. Immediately thereafter,

“For a student of Constitutional Law, it is interesting to make a thesis on these defections in the State vis-à-vis the Constitutional paradox. If a careful analysis is made, a student of Constitutional Law or Political Science would not find it difficult to conclude that the Governments in Goa gain stability or face instability depending upon the Party ruling at the Centre.”

Goa experienced another spell of defections. The two noted Judgements have laid down important questions of Law, one on the point of defection and split and another on the question of the power of Review by the Speaker. Probably in a lighter vein, one may not be incorrect in stating that had these defections not taken place, the Apex Court may not have had the opportunity to lay down such important judgements. In October 2000 there were defections again by which the Members of the Legislature split and joined another party and a new Government was formed. Between October 2000 and until January 2005, there were also some splits or some crossovers or merger of parties which took place in the State. At this time the Anti-Defection Law came to be amended whereby the one-third split was done away with and it was provided that only the merger of a party would be recognised. Goan politicians had an answer to this also. In February 2005 while bringing down the Government some MLA's resigned and the Goan voters had them return to power. For a student of Constitutional Law, it is interesting to make a thesis on these defections in the State vis-à-vis the Constitutional

paradox. If a careful analysis is made, a student of Constitutional Law or Political Science would not find it difficult to conclude that the Governments in Goa gain stability or face instability depending upon the Party ruling at the Centre. This is essentially because the total number of MLAs in the State are only 40 and I do not think there is any scope of increasing this number as, going by the territorial measure, the entire State of Goa is like one District of a larger State like Uttar Pradesh or Maharashtra. Take for example when the Coalition Government was ruling at the Centre. The 1990 defections had taken place. When the BJP was ruling at the Centre, major defections had taken place in 1999 when 10 persons of the Indian National Congress split to form the Government with the support of the BJP. When the Congress came to power at the Centre, the Government, comprising BJP and other parties, was brought down and the Congress Government was installed. In all these matters whether in 1991, in November 1999 or in February 2005, the Governor played a crucial role. Indeed, the Chief Minister had passed his Official Budget and moments thereafter the then Governor had dismissed the Government. Could a Government that has just passed the Financial Bill be dismissed by the Governor? Does the Governor enjoy such powers? Similarly in 2005, yet another Government had secured the Vote of Confidence and this was officially communicated by the Speaker to the Governor. Yet the Governor dismissed the Government perhaps on account of the ruckus which took place in the House when an MLA was physically lifted from the House as there was an Order of Disqualification/Injunction passed against him by the Speaker in a Disqualification Petition. Could the Governor have dismissed the Government in the face of the Report of the Speaker when he had secured a Vote of Confidence in the

House? Did the Governor exercise his powers Constitutionally? Should the Governor, if he was not satisfied with the Vote of Confidence, have asked the Chief Minister to secure yet another Vote of Confidence? These matters are food for deep thought to a student of Constitutional Law. There are great shortcomings in the Law of Defection – the power to adjudicate in matters of defection is left to the Speaker. Since 1984, has Speaker after Speaker fallen short of the jurisprudential standards expected in matters of adjudication? Once the Constitution entrusts the Speaker with this power and the Speaker passes such Orders, to what extent can the Governor of the State ignore such Orders? Experience has shown and history has proved that whenever the Government is threatened by defection or loss or support, the Speaker is faced with a Disqualification Motion filed by his own party and then, in some matters, it is seen that ad interim reliefs are granted so as to affect the count of votes. Despite these examples in the State and the State having shown to the entire nation along with Nagaland, that such shortcomings are writ large in the 10th Schedule and in the Constitution, why hasn't Parliament woken up to remedy this situation? Is it because it suits the respective Ruling Party to install its own Party Government? Or has our Parliamentary system not matured enough to effectively remedy situations through the making of laws when faced with defectors and placed in such a predicament? The State of Goa has proved much beyond doubt and with glaring examples that the Constitution has certain areas which need to be addressed, given the fact that the Government under the Constitution is intended to last for a term of five years or at least until it has support on the Floor of the House. Our Constitution does not intend governance of a State to be done by forming or convening Governments in the corridors of the Raj Bhavan. Bommai's case and all other Rulings clearly militate against such attempts. After all, we have what we call the “Rule of Law” and not the “Rule of Man”! The governance of a State is required to be carried out in accordance with the Constitution. Goa has shown by the happenings of events since 1990 that in such matters, the intended Constitutional provisions have fallen short or lack in their efficacy when read with the 10th Schedule of the Constitution and the powers of the Governor, under the Constitution. This is a significant contribution by the State if one looks at the matter in its entirety in a very positive way as a readymade example to bring in Constitutional reforms and amendments to remedy the defects and eliminate loopholes so that the greed for power and money, if not completely wiped out, is at least reduced and controlled to a great extent, reaffirming the principles of ethics intended by the framers of the Constitution. Perhaps the Governors or Speakers may have felt that they were doing the right thing. But surely as a mature democracy, the federation and federal structure of Indian polity cannot leave matters to the wisdom of one or two individuals. The time has now come in our country to ensure the 'Rule of Law' through judicial decisions by laying down norms and dictums in such matters, more so as the Union Legislature has failed to correct matters that required its attention.

INVESTMENT GUIDE

ecent technological advances in medical sciences have increased our average lifespan to 80 to 90 years. Your retired life may thus extend far beyond your productive years. At the same time, it will become difficult to sustain your income levels with the changes taking place in the financial world. In the past few years interest rates have gone down from 12 to 6 per cent per annum and those in the fixed income group are worse off by almost 50 per cent. There is also uncertainty over employment and business as industries get meaner and leaner to meet competition and to cope with recessionary trends that still linger in the economy. If you wish to protect and safeguard yourself against this and maintain your standard of living you should build substantial savings, invest them wisely and provide cover to your family against the three possibilities of premature death, disability and a long life. Force yourself to save as much as possible during your earning life for a happy and secure retirement. Treat your savings as expenditure. In the present topsy-turvy investment world, “a penny saved is no longer a penny earned”. It might as well be a penny lost to higher taxes and inflation, unless you plan your investment efficiently to yield maximum returns after payment of taxes. Each one of us can lead a financially secure life irrespective of one's level of income if you develop the habit of savings and investing prudently. To make prudent investments, learn the mantra of 'compounding of interest'. As is said, 'interest on interest is interesting'. Money power lies in the compounding of interest. Everyone can be a millionaire. To give you an instance, Rs 100 invested only once for 100 years at compound interest of 11 per cent will grow to Rs. 33 lakh. In the same manner, when the rate of interest offered by Public Provident Fund (PPF) was 12 per cent, Rs 60,000 invested every year for 15 years--ie Rs 9 lakh invested for a period of 15 years-- would grow to Rs 25 lakh and that too tax-free. If it was kept for an additional five years, this 25 lakh would grow to 50 lakh. To make the calculations even simpler, if you wish to learn how fast your money will double, remember this rule of 72: divide 72 by the rate of return/interest. For example, if you invest 1 lakh at 8 per cent the amount will be Rs 2 lakh in 9 years. All this is the result of compounding of interest. The second important factor is returns on

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Let Your Money Make More Money ForYouâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Introducing a regular column on investment advice By C.A. ASHISH V PRABHU VERLEKAR

The author is a well known CA based in Panaji and is President of the Goa Branch of the Indian Institute of Chartered Accountants your investments. The return on investment may consist of appreciation in the value of investment or receipt of income or both. The first type of return is typical of real estate while the second type is obtained as interest on fixed deposits, savings certificates, bonds etc. Both income as well as appreciation in value could be acquired from equity shares of good companies. However, we often ignore the tax factor which plays a very important role when you talk about return on investments. What is important is the amount left after paying your taxes--not before. For instance, if you are in the highest tax bracket of 30 per cent and have to choose between investing Rs 100 in a bank fixed deposit offering 8 per cent and Government tax free bonds at 6.5 per cent, what would

be a better option? On the bank fixed deposit, what you would get after paying tax of 30 per cent on Rs 8 is only Rs 5.60 whereas in the case of the tax-free bond you will earn Rs 6.50.Hence the tax-free bond is a better option. Various investments offer different tax breaks which need to be factored. Dividends from shares are tax-free. Profits on sale of shares of companies held for more than 12 months attract no tax while less than 12 months attract 15 per cent. Property appreciation doesn't attract tax and when sold after holding it for more than three years, it is liable to 20 per cent tax after indexation of cost, with avenues to invest and thus further reduce tax liability. The tax breaks on the interest of a housing loan makes it possible for you to own your dream home. These are just some examples. There is a lifecycle to investments. How you invest depends on your age and on your needs. The normal lifecycle of investing can be divided into four age groups: from 25 to 35 years, 35 to 50 years, 50 to retirement and the fourth beyond retirement. In the first stage, your income level is low-need as your income is also low and your ability to bear risks is high. In such a situation, you should look for long-term investments and your pattern of investment accordingly should be a mix of around 10 per cent in liquid funds like bank deposits, 25 per cent in fixed income instruments

like debt funds and 65per cent in stocks, real estate and so on. In the same manner, for each age group the basket of investments should accordingly be modified to have a right mix of bank deposits, Government securities like NSC, POMIS, PPF etc, Mutual Funds--liquid, debt, equity funds etc, shares of listed companies, immovable property, and adequate life and medical insurance. However there is a great deal of ignorance. Most people are under the erroneous impression that deposits in banks are the only way to a safe investment for their retirement, that interest from NSC is completely exempt from income tax, that your life insurance policy is required only to save tax, that investment in shares is a gamble. They don't realize the harm they are doing to themselves and their families. Families that keep all their money in banks are doing themselves a disservice. They are actually poorer than they were ten years ago. Today the needs and temptations of day to day life are so great that many of us are unable to accumulate a lump sum at one time, unless one is forced to save regularly every month. All of us earn money from our personal efforts, be it in service, the professions or in business. When savings are invested wisely your earnings can double. Let your money make more money for you.

TRAVELOGUE

World Heritage site : Torres del Paine in Patagonia

Mumbai, Paris and Los Angeles educated fashion designer Wendell Rodricks lives and works in the remote village of Colvale. Occasional enviornmentalist, activist and patron of the arts, he is passionate about all things Goan

South of the Border Celebrated fashion designer WENDELL RODRICKS recently discovered the myriad charms of Latin America. From Brazil to Peru, from Argentina to Chile, Patagonia and Uruguay, from Panama hats to the Incas, the sights and sounds of South America are a world apart

he best part of the Americas is truly South of the United States. Central America is a treasure trove of Maya and Aztec culture. The south is a splendid blend of Inca, the most amazing scenery on earth and the best of the new world discovered by the Spanish and the Portuguese in the early sixteenth century. Many years ago, we dreamt of doing a trip all around the Americas… south of the border. This spring, that dream became a reality. This region of the world is so remote from Goa that we

decided to do it all in one go. Selfindulgently but with an expansive spirit, we set aside two months, a budget for a home and threw all other pressing matters to the winds. The best option was to take a cruise on the Silver Spirit. With its eleven luxurious floors with 500 passengers on board, five restaurants, a pool, casino, three jacuzis, a spa and a gym. The cruise option happily bypassed the trauma of modern air travel, the unpacking and repacking in each country and since it is my golden year on the planet, what better way to celebrate? In two strollers went light clothing for the deserts of Chile and Peru, cottons for the tropical jungles of Brazil, Costa Rica and Guatemala, one woollen jogging suit to brave the squalls in the Falklands and Cape Horn, Indian shawls to brace the Chilean fjords and a couple of Nehru jackets and sherwanis for formal nights on the Silver Spirit (www.silversea.com) We flew Etihad (fabulous) to New York and on to Grenada via Puerto Rico. Most islands in the Caribbean look the same, feel the same, and frankly, do nothing to a Goan accustomed to the Konkan coast. Expect to find peace and luxury. In the spice flavoured hills, majestic waterfalls on towering volcanic cliffs, a turquoise jewel of an ocean, a perfect blue sky and a big fat bill to match all of the above. South America is sugarcane and corn country. The local brews are either rum or strong alcohol from cane. In Brazil, try the caiparinhas laced with Cachaca. In the Caribbean go for the Rum Punch. In Peru sample the Pisco sour. In Mexico, Tequila reigns supreme. No matter where, ask for the wonderfully cheap, berry flavoured, cocoa undertoned, robustly coloured, delicious wine. Chilean, Argentine and Brazilian wines get top points. If your Portuguese is rusty, brush up. If you want to enjoy the South American experience, a crash

course in Spanish is de rigeur. However, between my Portuguese and their Spanish, we navigated through places, people, sites and menu cards piled high with seafood, prime beef and delishtasting veggies and fruits. After Grenada and a no stop at Devil’s Island (Papillon’s ghost must haunt the impossible-toland waters in French Guyana), we land in Carnaval country. Nothing, nothing prepared me for Brazil. We stopped at six ports: Fortaleza (where we saw a dance performance by reformed street kids), Natal (go on the dunes in a buggy for a speed thrill), Salvador de Bahia (a cultural and culinary experience), Buzios (South of France St. Tropez glamour), Paraty (a marvel of Portuguese architecture and engineering) and Rio (the greatest party on earth). In each place I felt grossly overdressed. Brazilians go about their cities (on the coast at least) as if they are lounging by a pool. When you take a bus and see more bikini tops, hot pants, men’s abs and flipflops on everyone, it does come as a shock. By the time you see women and men jogging in Copacabana or Ipanema in nothing but Speedos, it all sinks in. This is the world’s sexiest country. They know how to live it and love it. If you plan a trip to Rio, go at Carnaval time. It is simply one of the globe’s great experiences. The Sambadrome with its miles of dancers, feathers, naked flesh and loud Samba music is a guaranteed adrenaline rush. To calm down, go to the first great city in Brazil, Petropolis and imbibe the history4 and beauty of the founder King Pedro. Or take a plane and see the hand of God at Iguazu…one of the world’s largest, widest torrents of water which makes Niagara look like a poor cousin. Tucked between the two largest countries (Brazil and Argentina) of the continent is a little jewel called Uruguay. Skip the capital Montevideo. It is dirty and

disorganized. But Punta del Este, a little port on the Atlantic, must be one of the best places to live on this planet. It is clean, green and lives at a Goan pace of life. Wonderful. Also make a trip to the heritage city of Colonia del Sacramento. It is opposite Buenos Aires on the Rio del Plata river. In the cobblestone streets, shady lanes, Portuguese colonial homes in Spanish America, you can find solitude, culture and a Garcia Marquez ambience. From Colonia you can see the towering skyscrapers of Buenos Aires. It is a beautiful city laid out like Paris. On wide boulevards, shaded with pink flowering trees, you can hear the strains of their most famous export: Tango Argentina. In the La Boca quarter, tango and football are supreme. The raw sensuality of the dance goes outside the tango halls and on the streets. In Buenos Aires, the memory of Eva Peron is everywhere. Especially in the labyrinthine graveyard where her tomb has the most flowers. Sample prime Argentine beef at El Palacio del Papa Fritas (the Palace of Fried Potatoes). It is an old world culinary experience; easy on the pocket. For fifteen dollars you can eat like a king: starter, prime beef with doublefried soufflé potatoes, dessert and wine. Bon Apetit! From Buenos Aires we sailed to see the Magellan penguins at Camarones. Nice but not the best. The best penguins are in the Falkland Islands (Isla Malvinas). Tiny little men in tuxedo suits, they dawdle up to you, flap their little wings and stare deep into your eyes. There are hundreds of these adorable creatures milling around you, if you sit in the sand. Off the Falklands the sea becomes a big, churning mass. It is so stormy, windy and grey that one senses the end of the earth is nigh. This is further South than New Zealand. A few thousand miles from Antartica. A chilly wind lashes all around. When we cross Cape Horn, at the Southernmost tip,

Carnaval in Rio: the ‘greatest party on earth’ one is immediately aware that the treacherous waters at this point, where the Atlantic and Pacific oceans meet, have taken many ships and men to the seabed. Aboard the modern navigational masterpiece that is the Silver Spirit, passengers reel from the choppy waters and five metre high waves. Some fall violently ill and stay in their cabins for many days. Beauty of Patagonia Ushuaia is called the city at the end of the earth. When we pull into port, it is a bright sunny day. A catamaran ride offers a rare glimpse of sealions, otters, cormorants and seals in the waters. Overhead, pelicans, seagulls and sea hawks swoop over the waves. At the Tierra del Fuego National Park, take the toy train (El Tren del Fin del Mundo) to enjoy the beauty and grandeur of Patagonia. This edge of the Andes is so breathtaking, it is more than its spell. The Silver Spirit sails past the Beaver Passage to enter the Magellan straits. Discovered by the Portuguese born but Spanish supported Magellan, the straits connects the Atlantic with the Pacific. The towering Andes peaks are wrapped in clouds. The water is viscous like chilled vodka. At Punta Arenas, Chile, we go overland to one of the natural wonders of the world. Torres del Paine in Patagonia is justifiably a world heritage site. It’s summits pierce the sky like towers separated by glaciers, which over the

years have cut large valleys between peaks. In clear lakes, some with pale blue icefloes, perfect reflections create mirrors of astounding beauty. Go to Torres del Paine. Marvel at the mountains, see the hundreds of wild guanaco llamas roam the cliffs and admire the ostrich-like Rhea birds and the migrating pink flamingoes. Torres is easily the best part of South America and one of the ten best places I have seen. Alaska may give you a worthy fjord experience. But to feel it up close, Chile’s Laguna San Rafael is the real deal. Our boat chugs right up to the face of the glacier. The chill wind turns our ears blue. Everyone is hypnotized by the long, tall wall of blue ice. Ten storeys of ice fall in a huge splash to crash into a hundred floes. We take a piece of the glacier back to the ship and drink our vodka with this million year old ice. It truly does taste pure…the best ice I have ever had. Have you ever ziplined? It is an adrenaline rush. Not as scary as bungee. In Chile, near the Mt Fuji perfect volcano of Osorno, near port Puerto Montt, they harness you onto steel wires that float between tree tops. In a nano second you are off, over deep valleys, at 45 kms an hour. It leaves you in awe, trembling, scared but wanting more. When the tenth line is done, one wants to begin again. Later, on the cruise, at Puntarenas port, we zipline in Costa Rica, the world’s best ziplining destination..

Icy magnificence Laguna San Rafael glacier in Chile

Falkland Islands ‘little men in tuxedo suits’

Zest and colour Bahia women in in Salvadore de Bahia Photographs : WENDELL RODRICKS

If I were pushed against the wall to choose the best country in South America, Chile would get top ranking. With a varied landscape and kind people, the chilly fjords to the desert sands in the North, Chile is truly blessed. At Valparaiso, the capital, we encountered the devastating effects of the recent quake. In the wealthy seaside town of Vina del Mar, one can see buildings with shattered glass, cracked walls and fallen plaster. At lunch we experience a mild aftershock. From beautiful Chile to cultural Peru. At Pisco, home of the famous Pisco Sour cocktail, a plane flies you over the famous Nasca lines in the desert. An ancient civilization which predates the Incas, made these gigantic lines in the sand three thousand years ago. They were unseen until the aviation industry took off after 1920. What made them mark the earth in this manner? Was it to welcome aliens, appease the rain gods or are they the ritual marks of macabre human sacrifice? We will never know. Some animal and bird lines run over 300 metres. Incredible! The Nasca lines are beautiful and baffling For the Inca trail, begin at Cusco. At 11,000 feet, marvel at the genius of the Incas. The terraced slopes in the hidden valleys, the temples to the Sun God and their geometrically perfect stone masonry mark a civilization extraordinaire. See Machu Picchu. But do not ignore Chincheiro, Ollantaytambo and Pisac. They are Inca marvels high up in the Andes; covered in veils of mist and wisps of ethereal clouds. The Peruvian capital Lima also lives up to its reputation. In the large Praca de Armas, drink in the beauty of the monastery, the churches and the Moorish buildings in bright yellow. See the Inca gold at the Larco Museum and walk in the chic Miraflores quarter. After window shopping for the Panama hats that pass through a ring in Manta, Ecuador and the best Mayan pyramids in the world at Tikal (off the port city of Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala), I am grateful to land in Acapulco, Mexico. We have gone around an amazing continent, sailed in three oceans, seen fifteen countries, visited twenty four ports, forty four sites, flown through sixteen airports, travelled overland half a dozen times… through many unforgettable adventures. It is time to head home. Prawn curry rice and a good village sleep awaits in Colvale. But each night I dream of the splendours of South America and the holiday of a lifetime.

INTERIORS EXTERIORS

Re-Creation The tastefully designed Caculo home in Miramar has been geared up with auto junk ingeniously reinvented into sleek design By Arch. SIDDHA D. SARDESSAI

Siddha D. Sardessai is an alumnus of the Goa College of Architecture. Besides the Caculo home, which won a commendation prize at the annual Indian Institute of Interior Design (IIID)-MK Awards, his architecture and interior design firm has executed several projects in Goa

he Caculos have been in the business of car dealership over several decades. This business has found an ingenious and innovative way into the beautiful home of Shefali and Suraj Caculo in Miramar. The wealth of spare parts of cars stored as junk over the last 50 years has been re-expressed into cleverly designed furniture for the recreation room. This posed a major challenge as the junk had to be crafted into furniture to suit

the modernity of the interiors. As the junk took shape into metallic colours, they began to complement the Italian marble floor and ceased to look out of place. Eventually this turned out to the best room in the entire house, complete with a different theme and setting. Now christened by friends as 'Auto Pub', this in-house bar may have sent many a commercial taverna out of business! This room is naturally the most frequented-- what with it housing the bar, the music, the

karaoke, and the pool table. The pool table stands on the aluminium chequered plate flooring as you enter. This play zone is demarcated from the entertainment zone by an aquarium and an antique 1950s model Triumph-TWN motorcycle doubling up as an enclosure. The enormity of the room has been toned down by dark coloured walls and ceiling and minimal lighting. The silver strokes add a dash of adrenaline and create a vibrant space. And the car parts reinvented into sophisticated furniture pieces enhance the beauty of this room. A loader arm from the front bucket of a JCB 3D was used to make the bar counter. With two such loader arms placed sideways, the bottom arm covered with wheel rims and a glass top, the resultant effect is of a cantilevered bar counter, which truly uplifts the spirit.. Exhaust pipes of different shapes and sizes have been bundled together to create a screen on the wall as the backdrop to the bar counter. A free-standing column in the room is covered with exhaust pipes recreating a tree-form that moves along the ceiling, forming branches. An axle housing sits on a spoke wheel rim as a base to create a bar stool. A divan has been ingeniously created out of wheel rims of varying sizes fitted one above the other, besides two chairs crafted again with wheel rims and fixed with a suspension lower arm to act as backrest. Stools with a coil spring holding an inverted shock absorber enhance the effect. A stand-alone centre table fabricated with a six cylinder crank shaft looks very interesting. This zigzag, asymmetrical shaft welded to a wheel rim base and a wheel fixed to the shaft top with a bearing for the rotating glass top adds a touch of class. Even ashtrays are crafted from pistons sliced into half.

Curved leaf springs have been creatively used to create a centretable. Easy chairs have been crafted using leaf springs and are located on the deck outside. On this deck, another loader arm has been submerged into the ground to create a low bench. Air filter casings have been inverted with a light bulb inside to form light fixtures, just like the bollards in the garden. This unique project experiments with materials one could never have imagined been used on this scale. What would have otherwise been a nuisance and a potential health hazard has been re-used to create furniture of the most ingenious design. Such practices will definitely go a long way in helping the environment and sow

the seeds for a green initiative in interiors. This is the Caculo way of lending a hand to the green movement. A new path has been created in this direction. Re-using junk has as equal importance as solar and wind energies and with the depletion of natural resources, junk will have to be looked upon as a huge resource in times to come. Coming to the house proper, before its renovation, the rooms seemed to have been carved out of nowhere. A long verandah adjoining the house was the first to face the brunt of resizing as this was eating into prime garden space. And the enclosed terrace above was once again opened, restoring the pergola. The house has thus begun to breathe and had

opened itself to the outdoors to let in the freshness. The crown shaped chajjas of the old house have made way for a continuous fabricated sloping chajja that adds linearity to the house and ties its loose ends together. The bay windows with fortress like grills and the obtrusive window AC units have been replaced with an inclined reflective glass façade that reflects the garden from the outside and offers a view from the inside. Thus was reborn a new contemporary look to the façade. This has been carried inside the house with it's elegant and stylized interiors. A rounded mirror held by embossed leaf patterns creates a focal axis through the foyer as you enter. A statue of Buddha finished in gold paint and bead work

stands against the background of symbolic pipal leaved wallpaper that leads you into the house. The Italian marble floor, black leather sofa sets, wrought iron chandelier and a Laxman Pai painting add a touch of grace to the formal living room. The rounded sofa sets finished with black leather sit on top of the old bay windows which have now

“This unique project experiments with materials one could never have imagined been used on this scale. What would have been a nuisance and a potential health hazard has been re-used to create furniture of the most ingenious design.”

been cut into a comfortable sofa shape. The resultant effect along with the inclined glass façade and the double height makes the formal living room a place of pride. The dining room is very contemporary in design and doubles up as an informal living room. An elegantly designed 10seater dining table, a couch set, a crockery unit and console units adorn the dining space. Lighting here is achieved by hanging uplighters that lend an elevated feel to the décor. The dining set itself is a piece of art done with Mother of Pearl inlays. The light fixtures, centre table and crockery unit all complement the table design. The master bedroom is a fairly large area on the first floor. This room is exclusively designed with a small lounge space besides the bed. The wooden blade fans

Shefali & Suraj Caculo fixed onto a beam projecting from the false ceiling lends subtle character to the space. The pergola terrace is a perfect place for morning breakfast and as an evening sit -out. The garden below along with its lawn and coconut trees allows the landscape to filter into this semioutdoor space.

LIFESTYLE

Lt. Col. (Retd) Milind Prabhu originally from Goa, has set up India's first National Sailing School in Madhya Pradesh and has organized several national sailing championships. He is a much sought after consultant in the Marine Industry

Marina, Ahoy! Goa is an ideal and idyllic location for a Marina, says Lt Col (Retd) MILIND PRABHU

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Marinas located on the Konkan coast could be viable business centres. Over 3000 yachts sail the world annually and they would definitely like to make a sojourn in Goa, provided we welcome them by building facilities with modern amenities. The appealing lifestyle is an additional draw.â&#x20AC;?

n the last few years, the idea of a 'Marina' in Goa has been floated about. Companies with a global interest are making their way to capitalize on what, for India, is a novel phenomenon. Not to lag behind, some local businesses have also expressed interest in a marina. The successful â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Goa international Marine and Boar Expoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; held in Panaji in December last year provided a timely boost to the concept of a Marina in Goa. Dr M. Modassir, Secretary, Tourism and Sports, Government of Goa, revealed that the ministry of tourism had in principle agreed to support the setting up of a Rs 400 crore marina in the state. The Chairman of Mormugao Port Trust Praveen Agarwal has also declared that MPT has initiated the process of setting up a Marina within the jurisdiction of the Port waters on a PPP basis. A business magazine recently reported that the Goa Yacht Haven, a partnership between Umaji Chowgule and Aquasail Yachts & Power Boats, as well as Walcon Marine, is investing Rs 100 crore on a 300-berth marina. But what actually is a Marina? The word 'Marina' is actually an Italian word for Marine. It is a sheltered harbour where leisure boats and yachts are parked or moored both on land and in water and the services are geared to the needs of recreational boating and to long distance yachts. Why is the Western coast of India an idyllic location for the establishment of a Marina? There are many reasons, the primary ones being an abundance of rivers and coves which provide sheltered waters for yachts and that too with a picturesque background of lush green mountains and the silhouettes of historical forts. The BBC has in fact rated the Konkan Coast as one of the most picturesque places on earth. Even Dubai which boasts of a world class Marina and spent

millions building it cannot match the beauty of the Konkan. Many of our young entrepreneurs have taken the plunge into the yachting and Marina 'Industry' assuming that it is an offshoot of the Shipping Industry and that the same standards apply. Nothing can be further than the truth. The shipping guys in fact can be seen as the 'Truckwallas' and the yachties as the Ferraris and BMW wallas. Naturally, the facilities

for docking and the standard of repairs are at variance. The world over, many who have built Marinas based on the assumption that it is a port for 'small ships' have suffered. A luxury yacht, costing millions, will never accept the greasy boot and oil spill standards of the Shipping Industry. Even repairs carried out on these yachts are more like surgery in an Operation Theatre. 'Squeaky clean' is the buzzword for the dedicated yachtsman and

in fact no footwear is permitted on board, restricted as they are to the pontoon or in special lockers provided at the entrance of the yacht. Marinas at best offer midlevel returns on investment. Investors who enter this business are in for the long haul. Returns on investment are sustainable only if certain cardinal principles are followed. This industry is not for people interested in high returns in quick time. There are no overnight millionaires in this industry. Then why enter this Industry? The main reason is that there is demand in India but no supply— whatsoever. This industry also generates many other businesses which are profitable. And the best part is that the industry is recession proof. Marinas in Britain, for instance, have a 12-year waiting list for parking space even during recession. The property adjacent to the Marina also fetches a value that is four to five times above its normal value. Loss-making Marinas are a rarity and less than five per cent have gone out of business in the last 30 years. Yachts in a marina are moored

on buoys or on fixed floating walkways that are attached to an anchoring piling by a ring and roller mechanism. Buoys are cheaper to rent but less convenient than being able to walk from the land directly into the yacht using the floating pontoons. Harbour Shuttles, also known as 'Water Taxis', are available to transfer people between shore and boats moored on buoys. Facilities offering fuel, boat ramps and stores have a common use dock set aside for such short term parking needs. Marinas have refueling, washing and repair facilities, ship chandlers, shops and restaurants. Slipways are useful to guide a trailored boat into or out of the water. There are also boat hoists available which are much more efficient than wasteful slipways. These hoists are operated by service centre personnel. There is also out of the water storage, a facility useful off-season storage, especially during the monsoons. Ground facilities include parking lots for vehicles and boat trailers. Marinas are most frequently located along banks of rivers connecting to lakes or seas and may be inland, sometimes

as much as 25 kms from the river mouth. Goa has excellent waterways to build Marinas but our backwaters cannot be used for the purpose because of the bridges which do not permit sail yachts from entering the water beyond the bridge. All the three rivers, namely the Mandovi, Zuari and the Chapora have bridges, built without foresight, which do not permit sail yachts to sail up river. The only option is to build a Marina west of the bridge which gives unrestricted access to the sea from sheltered waters. There was a time when knowledge of complex navigation was essential to sail across oceans. Knowledge of metrology to predict weather was also a vital necessity. With the advent of the Global Positioning System (GPS) and the Internet, navigation and predicting weather has become virtually child's play. Yacht technology has also changed with the times. Yachts built now are tough and can handle the most inclement weather with comparative ease, so much so that a veteran, old sailor remarked: “Technology has removed the fun out of sailing--no more ripping decks, falling masts, breaking stays…it's all smooth sailing…” Reliable yachts have given rise to a large community of 'yachties' who sail across the seven seas in order to salsify their wanderlust and their unbridled love of the seas. These inveterate sailors are in search of safe ports and places of interest to moor or dock. These are people who have made their fortune in business, share trading or the corporate world and have usually retired early to explore the world and lead a stress free life. As one yachtie remarked, “After a high pressure Corporate career, I realized the need to be stress free. I began to relax after six months of sailing, visiting small ports on the Mediterranean coast. I decided that this was the life for me, to roam the world unhindered and

at my own pace.â&#x20AC;? Yachties as a community pass on info about the places they visit through various websites which specifically cater to their needs. They serve as good and reliable publicists. Goa can be an important port of call, more so in recent times with the threat of Somali pirates off the African coast. After exiting the Suez Canal, yachts stop over at Salhala before entering the Arabian Sea. The threat of Somali pirates forces these yachts to head to the safer Indian waters, from Salhala down to Sri Lanka and then to Thailand. It is important to stress here that there are no Marinas from Salhala to Thailand-a distance of over 900 nautical miles. Yachts sailing from the Far East towards Salhala stick to the Indian coast due to the threat from Somali pirates. Thus Marinas located on the Konkan coast could be viable business centres. Over 3000 yachts sail the world annually and they would definitely like to make a sojourn in Goa, provided we welcome them by building facilities with modern amenities. The appealing lifestyle

is an additional draw. The Indian yacht industry grew at over a 1000 percent before recession and suddenly there are a host of boat shows offering topline yachts from all over the world to wealthy Indians. But the Industry is stuck in a chicken or egg situation. No customer wants to buy a yacht costing millions when no mooring place and repair yard facilities of the requisite standards are available. A Marina is a prerequisite before a buyer will even think of acquiring a multimillion dollar yacht. Marinas charge fees for most services. Fees based on services like parking, picnic area, pub and clubhouse for a shower, are usually included as a part of any monthly long term rental agreement package. Visiting yachties usually have the option of buying each amenity from a fixed schedule of fees and arrangements can be as wide as a single use, such as a shower, or several weeks of temporary berthing. The right to use these facilities is frequently extended to overnight or period rates to

visiting yachtsmen. Environmental concerns are few as a Marina has facilities to recycle all the effluents it generates and is an environmentally friendly structure. Floating pontoons in fact provide spawning grounds for a host of marine life the world over. Thus a marina is in sync with nature. It is nothing more than a small port and CRZ rules do permit the construction of such small facilities. A Marina is well known for creating an ambience that is appealing to the discerning client. Besides providing sustainable employment to the local populace, it provides for a unique lifestyle that is the envy of all. It is therefore pertinent for the Government of Goa to facilitate a Marina before Maharashtra, Karnataka; Kerala or Gujarat steal a march. Marinas can change tourism both quantitatively and qualitatively and provide jobs over a wide spectrum even during the lean monsoon season. Should we not cash in on the opportunity or simply let it drift by?

WELLNESS

Parineeta Sethi is the publisher & editor- in chief of four Niche Magzines : ‘AsiaSpa India‘, ‘Asia Pacific Boating India’ , ‘Millionaire Asia India’ & `Selling World Travel.` She is an authority on Spas and is now closely observing the nacent boating Industry.

SPA POWER

Spas have become a star attraction in Goa with several hotels, from mid-range to high-end, offering such facilities By PARINEETA SETHI

ever has the wellness sector in India been in better shape. Despite the economic slowdown that affected other sectors in India and most of the world, the wellness service market continued to explore opportunities to grow. This approach has resulted in a more spa-savvy consumer with

a staggering range of choices across all aspects of wellness, be it beauty, fitness, relaxation, counselling or nutrition. Heritage spas in the north, specialised Ayurvedic treatment centres in the south, and luxury hotel spas all over the country are enjoying the attention of a new generation of

sophisticated urban spa goers who in their turn are eager to try out new ways to rejuvenate, or escape the stress of daily routine. Not surprising then, that a study by FICCI and Ernst & Young conducted last year envisaged a growth rate of almost 30 percent for spas, alternative therapies, Ayurvedic treatments and beauty services. The entire wellness service market is expected to grow at a compounded annual growth rate of approximately 30 to 35 percent for the next five years. A significant region emerging in the spa and wellness arena is Goa, traditionally known for its relaxed atmosphere, nightlife and beaches. Over the last decade, several brands in the hospitality and wellness sector have flocked to the sunshine state, eager to cash in on this new wave of spa goers. “Goa stands for fun, leisure, relaxation and beaches, and a spa fits into that visual almost immediately,” says Bindu Jacob, Corporate Manager Spa Operations, for Mahindra Holidays & Resorts India which runs the Club Mahindra Varca Beach Resort in South Goa. Their in-house brand, Svaastha Spa which opened here a year and a half ago, has been well received by both Indian and international visitors. Their success is indicative of a larger trend that has swept the state over the last decade. The increasing numbers of both Indian and international visitors, eagerly seeking Ayurvedic treatments as part of their spa experiences here has facilitated the growth of independent Ayurveda centres, and contributed much to the success of spas in mid-level hotels, luxury hotel chains and boutique hotels and retreats. The spa-going age group lies primarily between the mid-twenties to the sixties. Ayurveda centres include older institutions like the almost two decade-old Dr. Ellen Shah

Memorial Centre, the ten-year-old Ayurvedic Natural health Centre (ANHC) Goa, as well as more recent additions like the Devaaya Ayurveda Retreat on the secluded island of Divar, and Ayurclinic Goa. Dr. Rohit Borcar, who started Ayurclinic Goa around two years ago after almost six years at the ANHC, says, “The scope for Ayurveda is very large. While the centre at Porvorim attracts mostly local clientele for medical purposes, our clinic at Arpora sees a large number of European, Canadian and Russian tourists, for whom the visits are both relaxation and health-oriented.” Some of the largest hospitality brands currently operating in India are enjoying their successful foray into the wellness sector, and nowhere is this more evident than all over this tiny state. Jiva Spas at the Taj Exotica, Fort Aguada Beach Resort & Taj Holiday Village, have been operational since 2005. Three months ago, the Alila Diwa Goa with its in-house Alila Spa opened at Majorda. Nearby, is Sereno Spa of the Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa that opened in 2003. Spas of equal calibre are flourishing in South Goa, whose beaches were once considered a

quiet refuge from the crowdedness and noise of the north. That includes three in Varca itself (at Club Mahindra, The Retreat by Zuri and The Zuri Varca, Goa White Sands Resort & Casino), the Leela Kempinski’s spa, and the Intercontinental The LaLiT Goa Resort at Raj Baga Cancona which introduced its in-house brand Rejuve – The Spa after years of outsourcing its spa operations. A few, like Jiva Spa and the Sereno Spa flaunt the Indianness of their menus, basing it on Ayurvedic practices, while others make sure it features prominently. The busy holiday period from October to March is also the best season for spas, with a mix of Indian and international tourists streaming in. Though with Indians also warming up to the idea, especially in metropoles like Mumbai and Delhi, some hotels including the Taj properties, Park Hyatt, Marriott and Kenilworth Beach Resort have reported an increase in traffic in the months between April and August, traditionally considered off season in Goa. Lalit Mundkur, spa manager at Rejuve- The Spa, states, “After the recession last year, most hotels are focusing on enticing domestic tourists with incentives

like packaged deals. People who wouldn’t have visited a spa three years ago are now coming here for treatments. Our property hosts many weddings throughout the year, so the spa also benefits from this traffic.” Indian tastes have broadened over the years, and “they are more willing to try out European treatments,” says the Kenilworth’s spa manager Neelam Singh. Deboley Mitra, who manages the spa at the Alila Diwa Goa which opened three months ago, has noticed that their Indian clients, predominantly from Mumbai, Gujarat and New Delhi, responded enthusiastically to the relaxationoriented Balinese treatments. International tourists mainly come from Europe (Switzerland, Sweden, Germany and the UK), NRIs, and a smattering of Americans. But by most accounts, Russian visitors are the most enthusiastic spenders, staying for weeks and splurging mostly on Ayurvedic treatments. “Russians tourists generally spend a week or two at the resort, so they opt for a package that enables multiple visits over the course of their stay. Some may opt for one treatment to start their day, and wind up with a different one in the evening. Some can spend up to Rs. 1,00,000 over a fortnight,” says Singh. Which is not to say that they’re the only ones spending generously. Dr. Pramod Kumar, Spa Director, at Sereno Spa avers that long-staying guests (which, besides Russians, also include visitors from India, the UK and Germany) book between 2 to 15 treatments, and spend Rs. 3500 to Rs. 9000 a day on average. At Kenilworth’s spa, the allin-one massage, facial and manicure-pedicure package at about Rs. 9000 are eagerly snapped up, as are the weekly packages at the Devaaya Ayurveda Retreat, which start from Rs. 30,100 for a single occupancy

that includes your dietary and therapeutic needs for the week. In the slightly lower price bracket are spas like Svaastha where a single session starts from Rs. 1500. Goa’s boutique hotels, too, are waking up to the viability of adding spas to their array of exclusive services. Whether made-over colonial villas, beach houses, or uniquely designed properties, these properties are finding eager takers among both international and affluent Indian visitors looking for interesting, yet well-appointed accommodation. A spa adds to this exclusive appeal, as places like Pousa Tauma at Calangute and the Casa series of boutique hotels at Baga, Anjuna, Vagator and Colvale have found. Meanwhile, the Beach House Resort at Sernabatim in the south, positions itself as a boutique wellness retreat, providing “total rejuvenation in 5-star luxury.” Tourists are the mainstay for Goa’s hotel spas, but the few standalone ventures like the nine-year-old Snip Salons and Spas benefit from a combination of tourists and local spa goers. Director Archana Bhobe who heads their two centres at Panaji and Calangute with her husband Sumeet, says that Goans account for 50 percent of their clientele in the capital. However, that figure falls to 20 percent at their Calangute outlet, where tourists bring in most of the revenue. She however, adds, “Over the last 3 years, we’ve seen almost every upwardly mobile local with disposable income (that also includes students) indulge in spa treatments, for beauty or relaxation. While some gravitate towards face rejuvenation, by sticking to our skin expert’s recommendation, others indulge in exfoliations, deep tissue massage, rebalancing lava stone massage and alternative fareastern therapies like Shiatsu and Thai Massage.” With so many trying to cash in

on the demand for spas, spurious practices have cropped up. Dr. Borcar points out that a few two and three star hotels have therapists who add the title of “Ayurvedic doctor,” immediately misleading visitors at that particular spa or centre. Ms. Bina Patel, Vice President of Spa Operations and Development for the Taj Hotels, Resorts and Palaces adds, “As spas are becoming popular, they are mushrooming all over the place and even facilities that are not spas masquerade as spas, thus bringing disrepute to the industry as well as misrepresenting the holistic treatments of India.” Industry sources say that dodgy hygiene practices do exist especially at uncertified centres – not changing linen between clients, storing oils improperly and using substandard products. They add that since some treatments, like the shirodhara, may require up to two litres of specialised Ayurvedic oils which cost up to Rs. 400 a litre, uncertified establishments end up reusing oils. Patel adds, “It is important to ensure that the spa you choose is hygiene-conscious, follows the strictest hygiene standards and has well-trained therapists, as ill-trained personnel can cause immense damage. Also ensure that the spa uses all-natural products rooted in wellness, as they are less toxic to you and the planet.” Still, that has not dented the overall enthusiasm of this sector in the state. Spas continue to thrive, with more entrants eager to share the spoils. Upcoming plans this year include the upgrading of the Goa Marriott Resort’s current spa facilities to fit in with the hotel’s international spa brand, Quan, and the introduction of Four Fountain Spas by owners CMYK Health Boutique.

CUISINE

Summer Cool In this sultry month of May, Chef Deepa Awchat whips up some delicious and cool recipe.

Sasav 48

(Ripe Suckling Mangoes in a Tangy Coconut Sauce) Ingredients Small ripe suckling mangoes 12 Grated coconut 1 cup Chilly powder 1 teaspoon Sugar 1 tablespoon Oil 2 tablespoons Mustard seeds 1/2 teaspoon Salt to taste

Chef Deepa Awchat, originally from Mapusa, is the cofounder of 'Goa Portuguesa', 'Culture Curry' and 'Diva Maharashtra', Mumbai's popular, award winning restaurants. She is also the author of 'The Goa Portuguesa Cookbook.'

Method 1. Wash and boil the mangoes in four cups of water for twenty minutes till the mangoes are soft and pulpy. Set aside to cool. 2. Squeeze out the mango pulp. Discard the skins and reserve the seeds with the pulp. 3. Make a fine paste of grated coconut and add it to the mango pulp and seeds. Add the chilli powder, sugar and salt and mix well. 4. Heat the oil in a pan and add the mustard seeds. When they begin to splutter, add to the mango and coconut mixture. 5. Serve either hot or at room temperature. Note: The quantity of sugar depends on the sweetness of the mangoes.

Feni Cocktail

Serves 1 Ingredients Palm feni 1⁄4 cup (60 ml) Lime juice 1⁄2 teaspoon Egg white 1 tablespoon Sugar syrup 1 tablespoon Ice cubes 3 A slice of lime, to garnish Method 1. Process all the ingredients in a blender, pour into a cocktail glass and garnish with a slice of lime.

Tender Coconut Punch

Serves 4 Ingredients Tender coconut water 4 cups (1 litre) Lime juice 2 tablespoons Tender coconut flesh (malai) 4 tablespoons Sugar 3 tablespoons Method 1. Blend all the ingredients in a blender; keep it in the refrigerator to cool for twenty minutes. 2. Serve cold in glass or coconut shell.

Anasachi Karam (Pineapple Salad) Ingredients Chopped pineapple 4 cups Grated coconut 1⁄2 cup Oil 2 tablespoons Mustard seeds 1⁄2 teaspoon Chilly powder 1 teaspoon Thick tamarind pulp 1 tablespoon Jaggery 1 tablespoon Salt to taste Method 1. Heat the oil in a pan; add the mustard seeds and when they begin to splutter, remove from the pan. 2. Grind the grated coconut, fried mustard seeds, chilly powder, tamarind pulp, jaggery and salt with a quarter cup of water to a fine paste. 3. Add the paste to the pineapple pieces, mix well and serve. Note: 1 large pineapple should yield 4 cups of chopped pineapple.

HOMING IN Introducing a regular column by foreigners who have found a home away from home in Goa.

We begin with SVETLANA CHIZHOVA who loves Goa like no other Russian

y name is Svetlana and I'm Russian by origin, but more Indian by the way I live my life. No, it doesn't mean that I don't love my native country â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I do, of course, but India and it's culture are the wings that have been guiding my life since early childhood. In fact my love for this country was sparked off in early childhood by the movies of Mithun Chakraborty and Rekha. Now my collection includes more than 500 DVDs and it's really difficult to say which my favourite is. I love them all- from 'Awara' to 'Rang de Basanti', from 'Shree 420' to 'Jab We Met', from Raj Kapoor and Sashi Kapoor to Shah Rukh Khan and Rani Mukherjee! All my life I've had an abiding interest in the study of Indian culture â&#x20AC;&#x201C; its classical dance, history, architecture, religion,

Svetlana is a commercial translator from Russian and has worked for the Indian Consulate in St. Petersburg.

From Russia with Love

philosophy, painting. My library of books on India and by Indian authors is one of the best and biggest in my native city of Smolensk and possibly in St Petersburg, where I currently live. In fact, the subject of my Diploma paper at University was called 'Indian Culture: Unity in Diversity'. This paper won excellent marks and is still used by my former teachers in their lectures on Indian culture. I worked for four years in the consular section of the Indian Consulate in St Petersburg. During this time I also took part in the preparation for the VVIP visits of Prime Minister Manmohan Singh, former President Abul Kalam, Congress President Sonia Gandhi and other dignitaries. I also took part in the organization of a number of film and dance festivals, and exhibitions. But India beckoned. I realized that to be truly happy and free in my life I had to visit India more frequently. So, for three years now I've been coming here regularly and stay on for six months. I travel, meet people and absorb the atmosphere of ancient wisdom. I've visited many places here-around 20 cities from the North to the South of the country. And, of course, I've been to Goa several times during my trips. For me, Goa is really a very special place on this planet … Goa's beaches and natural beauty have been extolled by many. And no doubt all the qualities--'wonderful, relaxing, mesmerizing'—are true. But to me personally any destination in the world is defined, first of all, by its people. That's why Goa is very special, very dear to my heart and soul. Not only because of its silver seas, marvellous sunsets, emerald fields and endless miles of golden sands,

but because of its people. Goa is a 'a paradise on earth' because of them. Goans are very friendly. The moment you step out from the cool hall of the international airport in Dabolim, you immediately feel this ambience of warmth and cheer. It seems that the sun reflects its warm rays on the faces of Goans. This river of positive emotions accompanies you from the moment you arrive till the last moment before departure. Goa and Goans are all for a life of celebration. Talkative and genial taxi drivers, colourful lorries with flambouyant signs, the bright faces of curious kids who want to talk to you about everything under these skies and share the precious secrets of their fairytale land of childhood, the shining faces of Brahmins from Hindu temples and priests from Catholic Churches—all speak of joy and a secular spirit of harmony. Goa bubbles with tourists and pilgrims and travellers from all nations and continents. But everybody here imbibes a little bit of Goan culture. It is very difficult to remain over-busy with one's own problems when an elderly lady in the street gives you a fragrant jasmine simply to wish you a happy day. Goans of course work really

‘‘It seems that the sun reflects its warm rays on the faces of Goans. This river of positive emotions accompanies you from the moment you arrive till the last moment before departure.”

hard to survive and feed their families. But it's not possible not to smile at memories of a fisherman, who after leaving his heavy boat at the shore after a tiring day, returns with two small crabs in his hand. When he notices my surprise, he simply responds: “They are still very small. Let them live more.' Goa itself is a non-stop festival of national holidays. And it's not because people here have nothing more to do, but because they live life as an inestimable gift of God and feel to the fullest precious moments their own existence on Earth. Visiting Goa for many years now, I do admire the talent and creativity of Goans. A lot of my close friends work in the entertainment industry, in hotels and discotheques, keeping themselves busy by bringing joy to people's lives-they organize dream-wedding ceremonies, design unique garments, play romantic music over candle-lit dinners. They will share your happiness and support you in your troubles. Their words come straight from the heart. The whole of India is my second home and Goa is my beloved room in it. I feel protected. I feel happy and relaxed and full of life and faith here. During my first trip to Goa, I read a saying in a small café hidden in the shadow of a huge mango tree in North Goa: “There are no strangers. Only friends you have never met…” And that's why I extend my sincerest wishes to all people who only dream about this dreamland--come here with an open heart and Goa will embrace you in return with all its warmth and love.

BANDSTAND

In the Forefront

Introducing a monthly feature on Goa's most popular bands

By DALE CORREIA

hey have indeed been in the forefront among bands in Goa. Performing only live, 'Forefront' was formed in 1991 when they made their debut in Henry's Cafe, with Marino on keyboards, Lester on guitar and Sebby on bass guitar- all three originally members of the band 'Artwork'. Savio later joined them as the drummer. When they began, they had to compete with more famous bands like The Syndicate and Big City Band to get to the top. Today 'Forefront' has six members. “I thought I'd sing only for a short while but later began to enjoy it, so I'm still a part of the band,” says Agatha, the lead female vocalist who has been enthralling the public with her powerful voice as part of the band for the past seven years. Agatha loves Reggae and Hip Hop. Melvin, the lead guitarist, has been with the band for the last 13 years and is a fulltime musician. A lover of Rock, he was originally from the band 'Vagabonds' and is a Bob Marley fan. Joaquim is the all-rounder of the group as he plays the flute, saxophone and percussions, while Angelo joined

last year as the band's keyboardist. Sebby continues to play on bass and Savio the drums. Savio prefers his acoustic drum set to the electronic V drums but uses a mix of both. Sebby prefers the oldies like Frank Sinatra while Savio is fine with all kinds of music but has an inclination towards Bollywood and jazz. Almost all kinds of events are covered by 'Forefront' including Christian and Hindu weddings, corporate parties and events at hotels. They have a repertoire of 300 songs catering to different tastes be it Rock, Rap, Retro, Reggae, Pop, Bollywood, Bhangra or Goan music. “The choice of our songs depends on the kind of crowd we have to cater to or the type of show we have to play for. The elite prefer Boney M, ABBA, Jazz and old Retro while the modern generation loves Bollywood and Sean Kingston! At weddings one has to play romantic and party music, for corporates it's Rock, Retro and Bollywood. We choose songs with a groove that are easy to dance to,” says Sebby. The specialty of 'Forefront' is that they play 100 percent Live with absolutely no sequenced music and

are not afraid to do so. They are comfortable performing anywhere, be it indoors or outdoors. Their advice to new bands is to play live as that shows the skills of a true musician. The band has performed at Qatar, Kuwait and Bahrain. They have also played in a number of cities in India including Mumbai and Bangalore. Agatha says, “Goa has a number of bands, so competition is very high. We have to struggle to remain in the top bracket. Abroad it is easier to get appreciation. People outside Goa are eager to listen to Goan bands. Their encouragement keeps the band going.” But the sad part of playing abroad is that they are paid less than in Goa as their agents have to pay for their travel, boarding and lodging. Peak season is October to February and 'Forefront' is booked almost every day. During off seasons they play at hotels, these days at Vivanta by Taj every Saturday night. In '09 'Forefront' released their second music album 'Flying Higher' which contains nine songs, one of which is an environmental song 'Clean & Green'. Their first cassette was 'Always By Your Side' and these songs from this album were featured on MTV Star Hunt. All the songs in the albums are original compositions of the group. But the challenge they face is that no one readily markets their compositions for them, the reason being that music is easily downloaded or copied by the public. Earlier this year, they performed live alongside 'Boney M' at Butter Candolim. It was a dream realized especially for Sebby who as a kid used to dub their voices over audio cassettes.

HOSPITALITY By SINEAD McMANUS

Goa’s

Designer Boutique Hotel

Sinead McManus has lived and worked in Goa for the last five years She lives in Canacona South Goa but her job entails travelling extensively around India, promoting the country to the British/American Travel Trade and to the independent traveller.

nternationally acknowledged fashion designer Tarun Tahilani has extended his wings, displaying his multifarious talents with his new creation-The Sol, an intimate luxury boutique hotel located in Nerul on the emerald green banks of the Sinquerim River with a breathtaking view of Candolim Church. The Sol Goa with its striking contemporary design offers a happy amalgam of high international standards and typical Goan warmth and hospitality. Away from the clutter and clatter

of the city, the hotel is built around a central courtyard which draws inspiration from its natural landscape. It is nestled in the picturesque beauty of a region that was once a private getaway for high ranking Portuguese officials. Owned by Sun Leisure (India) Pvt Ltd, The Sol is managed by King Arthur Hospitality and Solutions Ltd in technical collaboration with Apeejay Surrendra Park Hotels Ltd and is the first in the genre of designer boutique hotels in the Indian landscape. Sun Leisure’s Suraj Morajkar feels quite sunny about Sol’s prospects. “This has been my

dream project,” he says. “It has been built to exude luxury and warmth. Every guest at Sol will feel the romance between architecture, design and luxury. The hotel is a modern, contemporary and luxurious property that offers great value to its discerning clientele. It combines international standards with a touch of Indian warmth and hospitality and presents a distinctive boutique experience with relaxation at its very heart. The Sol has 16 well-appointed luxury rooms and four luxury suites, each with a scenic river view.

ACHIEVER OF THE MONTH

iran Thapar, model, sports anchor and actress launched her career on home turf, Goa. First runner up at the ‘Miss Goa’ pageant, 2006, she was also a finalist for ‘Miss India 2007’ and was crowned ‘Miss Beautiful Eyes’. Grandaughter of the famous Goan singer, Nolasco Dias, Kiran has starred in 23 television commercials, including Dabur Vatika, Appy Fizz, 7 Up and Colgate. Modelling for campaigns like ‘AND’ created by Anita Dongre, she has also walked the ramp for designers like Narendra Kumar, Neeta Lulla and Seema Khan. Viva Goa gets personal with Kiran My biggest joy… Being a high school topper in the tenth standard. My biggest fear… A quitter never wins. I face insecurities and fears at every stage and try my best to overcome them. Learning not to worry about things I can't control! My favourite holiday destination… London - I love everything about it! My favourite pastime… Films and re-watching my favourite ones. I have an enormous soft-spot for kids and the elderly, especially my own grandmother.

My idols… The versatile and graceful Meryl Streep; Kajol for her charm and authenticity, and the vivacious Preity Zinta. The craziest pick up line used on you… Fortunately, I’ve never had the pleasure of being 'picked up'...let's just say I'm conventional.

Kiran Thapar