V62 by V Magazine

New collection

www.cartier.com

Trinity . All about you forever

CHANEL BOUTIQUES

•

800.550.0005

•

CHANEL .COM

A®

44160_A1_C1-2 10/07/09 LOU LOU

44160_A1_C2-2 10/07/09 LOU LOU

WWW.RODARTE.NET To see more design collaborations with CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements, visit: WWW.CRYSTALLIZED.COM

LOVE AT FIRST LIGHT

Leather & lace dress by RODARTE made with CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements

www.rado.com

RADO TRUE CHRONOGRAPH JUBILÃ&#x2030;

shop online DIESEL.COM

THE WORLD NEEDS TO DISCUSS IT OVER DRINKS THE WORLD NEEDS INTERESTING SCAN THIS TO SEE WHAT’S IN THE CODE OR TEXT “25” TO 43588 TO GET STARTED

MORGANSHOTELGROUP.COM/INTERESTING PURPLE BAR AT SANDERSON IN LONDON

foreword

heads up! 2009 was a funny year. Not so much ha-ha, as it was full of twists and turns, ups and downs, firsts and lasts. Each day seemed to bring even more wild and unexpected news, from the Miracle on the Hudson to the passing of Michael Jackson, and if the past eleven months have taught us anything, it is that heart wins out. Our cover girl, Natalie Portman, could tell you all about that. Unlike many of her contemporaries, she has built a remarkable career for herself the old-fashioned way: by working hard and taking risks. And if that has resulted in a couple of critically panned roles, so be it. As she explains in her interview, negativity only forces her to push harder, move faster, and silence all the naysayers in the process. A girl after our own hearts. This issue is our last of this roller-coaster year, and we wanted to finish on a high note. To that end, we’ve culled some of the most intriguing talent of the minute, from the performance artist Kalup Linzy to the symphonic composer Koudlam, as well as some from the past, like Paul Wunderlich, one of the art world’s greatest unsung heroes. We also sit down with the always brazen Sigourney Weaver and the perennially cool Charlotte Gainsbourg, whose hotly anticipated films will steal headlines and fill theaters all winter long. Then we have a couple of backseat chats with Dree Hemingway and Alexa Chung, two style icons for tomorrow. If you’re still wondering what beauty might look like in the new year, you’ll find the answer in Beauty 2010, the second installment in our survey of forward faces. As for the fashion, we present to you some of the most sexed-up, pushed-out, and hard-rockin’ looks from the Couture, Cruise, and Spring 2010 collections, as seen by Hedi Slimane, Willy Vanderperre, and Sebastian Faena. The new decade is nigh, and we plan on giving it our all. Until then, happy holidays! Mr. and Ms. V

Photography David Slijper Styling Belén Casadevall 28

Earrings in yellow gold, coral, and diamonds and chain in white gold with solitaire diamond pendant Van Cleef & Arpels Necklace in platinum with diamonds De Beers Brooch in white gold and diamonds Dior Joaillerie Bodysuit Vilsbol de Arce

On left hand, from left: Round ring in white gold and pavé diamonds Boucheron Cluster ring in white gold and diamonds Dior Joaillerie Panther ring in platinum, pavé diamonds, onyx, and emeralds Cartier Bracelet and watch in white gold and pavé diamonds Bulgari

Model Kamila Filipcikova (IMG) Stylist assistant Celine Marioni Makeup Jessica Nedza (Close Up) Hair Alain Pinchon (Streeters)

On right hand, from left: Strawberry ring in yellow gold, rubies, and emeralds Lorenz Bäumer Square ring in white gold and quartz and round blue ring in white gold Chanel Fine Jewelry Watch in white ceramic with baguette sapphires Chanel

www.giorgioarmani.com

hello

color me rad Editor-in-Chief Creative Director Stephen Gan Senior Editor-at-Large Karin Nelson Features Editor Christopher Bartley Associate Editor Jacob Brown Photo and Bookings Editor Pippa Lord

Contributing Fashion Editors Joe McKenna Panos Yiapanis Clare Richardson Olivier Rizzo Nicola Formichetti Jane How Jonathan Kaye

Senior Fashion Editor Jay Massacret Fashion and Market Editors Catherine Newell-Hanson Yuki James Assistant Bookings Editor Kristina Kim

Consulting Creative/ Design Direction Greg Foley

Visionaire Cecilia Dean James Kaliardos

Advertising Directors Jorge Garcia Giorgio Pace

Associate Art Directors Sandra Kang Byron Kalet

Senior Fashion News and Special Projects Editor Derek Blasberg

Advertising Manager Francine Wong

Senior Designer Stephanie Chao

Art Editor Simon Castets

Design Cian Browne

Contributing Editor T. Cole Rachel

Fashion Editors-at-Large Jacob K Beat Bolliger Soﬁa Achaval

Contributing Beauty Editor Roopika Malhotra Contributor/ Entertainment Greg Krelenstein/ Starworks

Marketing and Events Taylor Choi Financial Comptroller Sooraya Pariag Advertising Coordinator Vicky Benites Distribution David Renard

Production Director Melissa Scragg

Online Editor Christopher Bartley

Communications Starworks

Online Design and Production Ryan Dye

Executive Assistant/ Special Projects Editor Steven Chaiken Special Projects Kyra Grifﬁn Dominic Sidhu Kiko Buxó Administrative Assistants Annie Hinshaw Farzana Khan

Copy Editors Traci Parks Jeremy Price Creative Imaging Consultant Pascal Dangin

Interns Caroline Ahn Ronald Burton Winston Chmielinski Enrica Ferrazza Olivia Kozlowski Martin Landgreve Michael Liu Maryellen McGoldrick Timothy Mitchell Alison Munn Catlin Myers Alex O’Neill Charlotte Rey Nick Rieve Anna-Maria Spyropoulos Matthew Stutz Catherine Strassman Emily Torrans

V62 Mario Testino Hedi Slimane Willy Vanderperre Sebastian Faena Mario Sorrenti Craig McDean Alasdair McLellan Gisele Bündchen Guido Mocafico François Berthoud Paul Jasmin Richard Burbridge Jason Schmidt Daniel Jackson Miguel Reveriego Miles Aldridge Alex Needham Michael Martin Aimee Walleston Ken Miller Anthony Kaufman Amanda de Cadenet Douglas Friedman KT Auleta Marie Chaix Todd Cole Brian Molloy Sharif Hamza Andrea Spotorno Sasha Eisenman Miguel Villalobos Heidi Bivens Mario Godlewski David Slijper Adrian Gaut Cameron Krone Adam Fedderly Belén Casadevall JD Ferguson Schohaja Tom Van Dorpe Greg Harris Seiji Fujimori Kazunari Tajima Adrian Sølberg Stéphane Feugère Catherine Blair Pfander Alisa Gould-Simon Jonathan Shia Wing Shya Emily Eisen Special thanks Art Partner Giovanni Testino Candice Marks Lucy Lee Jemima Hobson Sarah Frick Smith Lindsay Thompson Art + Commerce Anne du Boucheron Management Artists Julian Watson Elisabeth Ward Zaki Amin Kim Pollock Patrick Stretch Thomas Bonnouvrier Marie Hu Marna Spiotta Anne Nelson Bettina Micheli Becky Lewis Trudi Tapscott Chloe Case Wilson Wenzel Richard Habberley Splashlight Studios Spring Studios Michael Masse Fast Ashley’s Studios Rachel Gessert Kelley Blevins Ilili Saâdane Afif Dorothy Iannone Katja Strunz Uwe Henneken Cover photography Mario Testino Styling Clare Richardson Makeup Charlotte Tilbury Hair Marc Lopez Manicure Lorraine Griffin using Sisleya by Sisley Photo assistants James White, Hans Neumann, Rasmus Jensen Stylist assistants Sophie Lawrence and Rebecca Connolly Makeup assistant Lotten Holmqvist Set design Gideon Ponte Digital technician Alex Franco Lighting design Chris Bisagni Seamstress Jill Burlington Set design assistant Poppy Bartlett Catering Kate Trawnley Lighting Equipment Unique Lighting Production Elisabeth Ward Retouching R&D Calvin Klein Jeans cover: Natalie wears Jacket Calvin Klein Jeans customized with Crystallized™ – Swarovski Elements by Keko Hainswheeler T-shirt Calvin Klein Underwear Chanel cover: Natalie wears Jacket, swimsuit, necklace Chanel Armani Privé cover: Natalie wears Jumpsuit Armani Privé Ring (worn on right hand) Dior Joaillerie Ring (worn on left hand) Cartier Large ring (worn on left hand) Stephen Webster On eyes and lips, VS Makeup by Victoria’s Secret Beauty Eyeshadow Quad in eye contact and Lipstick in shy This page photography Mario Godlewski Photo assistant Robert Peralta Prop styling Amy Henry Digital technician David Williams From center: Rimmel London Glam’Eyes Lash Flirt Mascara in black Dolce & Gabbana The Eyeshadow Duo in night YSL Makeup Easy Liner for Eyes and Crème de Blush 3 Estée Lauder Signature Lipstick 67 in plum amethyst 32

contents

Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal

Valentino Haute Couture

Armani Privé

Gaultier Paris

HIGH ART

36 PArties Gaga sings in New York; Mario Testino brings Rio to Paris; Supreme celebrates New York fashion week; artist Richard Hambleton stages his comeback 38 Heroes Sigourney Weaver, the ﬁrst female action hero, still packs a punch; Paul Wunderlich is fashion’s favorite artist that you’ve never heard of 41 FAMily Jewels Mr. Chow’s Michael and Eva Chow take us on a tour of their Beverly Hills home 42 tHe DeVil insiDe Charlotte Gainsbourg taps her inner demons 44 strike A Pose Artist Kalup Linzy takes on Proenza Schouler 46 CHAos tHeory His eerie music wowed the art world, now composer Koudlam readies an album 47 BoDy oF work Gisele Bündchen talks to Mario Testino about Rio, the subject of his latest book 48 PluG it in / Book oF DreAMs A digital daily art dose from Visionaire; Jean Cocteau inspires Cartier

Chanel Haute Couture

Dior Haute Couture

Gaultier Paris

50 work in ProGress Jason Schmidt hits Berlin to visit with artists Saâdane Afif, Dorothy Iannone, Katja Strunz, and Uwe Henneken 54 V Girls & V Guys The next gen of cool kids shakes up the creative world 58 extrA Art, fashion, music, film, and books you need to know 59 let’s tAlk ABout AlexA CHunG MTV’s newest host Twitters her way to the top 61 MAGiC MountAin Scenes from the next breakthrough Chinese film 62 First look At CÉline The storied French house heats up, thanks to Phoebe Philo 63 ski-BAy Chic snow bunny gear to warm you up 64 ViCtoriA BeCkHAM 9 to 5 Her sophomore collection redefines chic for working moms everywhere 66 PuFF loVe Thom Browne and Giambattista Valli make Moncler new 68 GorGeous MAxiMus Bigger is better. We kinda want to splurge on Victoire de Castellane’s glorious jewelry for Dior

Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal

72 nAtAlie or notHinG From adolescent femme fatale to queen of the Star Wars universe, Natalie Portman has proven to be the Hollywood starlet that the world can take seriously. Photographed by Mario Testino 126 Best oF 2009 From fashion faves to galactic phenomenon, V celebrates the rough and tumble year that was 128 V-MAil The boys and girls of Copenhagen take on global warming

V Fashion Winter 2009/10 78 roCk Couture By HeDi sliMAne 88 All AMeriCAn Dree By seBAstiAn FAenA 96 Pin Me uP Pin Me Down By willy VAnDerPerre 106 BeAuty 2010 120 GiVe & Get By GuiDo MoCAFiCo

This page photography Schohaja

BOSS Black

BOSS 0272/S - BOSS 0275/S

www.hugoboss.com

party Alek Wek Eva Chow Michael Chow

Katy Perry

Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

Sessilee Lopez

Esteban Cortazar

Peter Dundas

Karla Otto

Suzy Menkes

Sasha Pivovarova

Lily Donaldson

Lauren Santo Domingo

Heidi Mount

Alice Dellal

Jared Leto

Dean and Dan Caten

Sebastian Faena

Riccardo Tisci Kalup Linzy

Humberto Petit Diane von Furstenberg

Mariacarla Boscono Lara Stone

Ice-T Lady Bunny

Coco Bradley Garlock

Toni Braxton

Douglas Friedman

Janet Jackson Michael Roberts

Richard Phillips

Janet Jackson

Justin Bond

Claudia Schiffer Jake Davies

Lindsay Lohan

Ben Hill

Daphne Guinness

Ellen von Unwerth Kate Moss

James Kaliardos

Marc Jacobs

Pierre-Henri Mattout

Haider Ackermann

Grace Coddington

Rufus Wainwright

Cecilia Dean Lorenzo Martone

Dree Hemingway

Jade Jagger

Lady Gaga

Rachel Zoe

Eniko Mihalik Brad Kroenig

Hamish Bowles

Carine Roitfeld

John Demsey

WE GO GaGa!

Mario Testino

Estelle

Mario Testino

Lindsay Lohan Stephen Gan

RIO ON THE SEINE

V Magazine, Marc Jacobs, and Belvedere Vodka celebrate Lady Gaga and the launch of V61, with a special acoustic performance by Lady Gaga, Hiro Ballroom, NYC, September 14, 2009. Special thanks M.A.C Cosmetics

V Magazine and Alice Dellal celebrate the launch of MaRio de Janeiro, a new book by Mario Testino, at Café Carmen, Paris, October 5, 2009. Music by Jeremy Healy. Special thanks Karla Otto and Favela Chic

Photography Patrick McMullan, Billy Farrell, JD Ferguson

Photography Stephane Feugere

Tom Sachs

Cecile Winckler Katrin Thormann

Iris Strubegger

Bryanboy

Marco Perego

Shannan Click

Paul Rowland

SUPREME BEINGS

Bregje Heinen

Photography JD Ferguson 36

Anouck Lepère

Richard Chai

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Noah Mills Tyler Riggs Suvi Koponen

Fabiola Beracasa

Tallulah Harlech

Christian Brylle

Paul Rowland and V Magazine celebrate “The World of Women and Supreme,” a special supplement to V61, NYC, September 9, 2009

Patrick Demarchelier Mia Demarchelier

Cecilia Dean Neville Wakeﬁeld

Sally Lyndley

Lenz von Johnston

Kerry Washington

Behati Prinsloo

Jamie Strachan

Bruce Willis

BaCK TO THE FUTURE

Emma Heming

Genevieve Jones

Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld

Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld and Andy Valmorbida host a dinner for artist Richard Hambleton, in collaboration with Giorgio Armani at Armani/Ristorante 5th Avenue, NYC, September 10, 2009 Photography JD Ferguson

Julia Restoin Roitfeld

Andy Valmorbida

www.johngalliano.com

sigourney weaver

She redefined an entire genre aS Science fiction’S firSt female action hero, but that didn’t Stop Sigourney Weaver from conSiStently upping the ante on herSelf. noW She’S back With famed director JameS cameron and they’re tackling yet another hollyWood trope: 3-d Sigourney Weaver is calling from another planet. Communication is spotty. “I’m sorry, you’re breaking up,” she says. “I’ll just step outside the trailer.” The universe in question is the set of a Disney comedy starring Kristen Bell—a world away from Alien, the film that thirty years ago made her an icon: the first female action hero, an indelible picture of fierce intelligence and strength. But fizzy comedy is no stretch for Weaver, who has seemingly done everything on-screen—from incubating an alien embryo to renting Amy Poehler’s womb to Tina Fey—and these days, at age 60, she is just about everywhere. This winter, she’ll appear in Aliens director James Cameron’s rabidly anticipated Avatar, a space epic shot in 3-D. And within the next year she’ll star in comedies opposite Seth Rogen, Kristen Wiig, and Tim Allen. Weaver’s epic career began auspiciously with 1979’s Alien, the space opera in which she played Ellen Ripley, charged with saving her shipmates (and later, humanity) from bloodthirsty extraterrestrials. It became a phenomenon, and Weaver’s first ten years in the business held one iconic film after another: Ghostbusters, Gorillas in the Mist, Working Girl (with Oscar nominations for the latter two). Over the next two decades, she alternated blockbuster returns with smaller projects that revealed her to be a masterful comedian (Galaxy Quest, Heartbreakers) and a dramatic actress of searing depth: her turn in Ang Lee’s The Ice Storm, as a chilly housewife in ’70s suburban Connecticut, was as indelible as Ripley. The last few years brought comic and dramatic heights. In 2009, she scored heavily as a hilariously unctuous (and fertile) surrogate-agency owner in Baby Mama and got great reviews for her role in the TV movie Prayers for Bobby, as the homophobic mother of a gay son who has an ideological turnaround after his suicide. And next year, she will serve as the star and producer of G-String Mother, a biopic of burlesque artist Gypsy Rose Lee. Cell phone problems resolved, Weaver talks about the genesis of Alien, her reunion with Cameron, and why the world needs better science fiction. Michael Martin

Sigourney Weaver in NYC, 1988 Photography Robert Mapplethorpe Avatar is out in December 2009 from 20th Century Fox

MICHAEL MARTIN How did Alien come about? SIGOURNEY WEAVER I was asked by my agent to read this science-fiction script. I wasn’t terribly interested in doing science fiction, because I imagined, you know, Flash Gordon. And I read the script, which I didn’t really care for. I showed up for the meeting, and they weren’t there yet. I called my agent and said, “You know, I’m just going to blow this off.” And she said, “Oh, come on, just go to the meeting.” So I went, met [director] Ridley Scott, and told him I wasn’t crazy about the script. Luckily, Ridley is such a straightforward person that he loved that. He showed me the incredible renderings of the alien and the eggs and all this artwork by Giger and Rambaldi, and I realized I’d never seen a movie that looked anything like this. It was a work of art. MM Why do you think you got the part? SW They screen-tested me in London. I was the only person they screen-tested. There was a lot of interest in the role, except from me. I think that’s what kept them interested. I was absolutely nobody from nowhere. I wanted to work with Mike Nichols and Woody Allen; I was a terrible snob about the whole sciencefiction thing. Of course, I couldn’t have picked a more exciting project to be a part of. I slowly got into it, and as I did, I realized it was the rich part I’d been looking for. It was an odd beginning for me, because I’d done mostly comedy. MM People don’t think of you as a comedian, although you’re terrific at it. SW My uncle was a stand-up comedian, so it was kind of in my blood. Alien gave people the impression that I was strong and serious. I had to audition for Ghostbusters, because Ivan Reitman didn’t believe I could do comedy. And I’m still trying to let people know that I can do comedy. That will be on my tombstone: “By the way…I can be funny!”

MM Do you ever stop and think about the place in film history that Alien gave you, as the first female action hero? SW Well, I don’t know if I was the first female action hero. There must be others. But I was the first Ripley. What I love about her is that she’s everyperson. She happens to be a woman, but she’s all of us. I feel so grateful that I got to play a character in an action film, and I didn’t have to worry about being a sex object. I could just be Ripley. MM Did you have any apprehension about the sequels? SW Each time they picked such a gifted director. And we worked very hard on the scripts. For me, it was like another episode of an adventure. We didn’t think of it as making sequels; we never took it for granted that we’d make another one. Jim Cameron wrote that first sequel on spec. He took the character of Ripley and brought it out in such a bold way, really brought her into focus. The third one: I love David Fincher’s work, I think he’s such a master. It was a little odd, having him kill everything I’d worked to save. But I understood that as a young director, making his first film, he didn’t want to be carrying Jim Cameron’s plotlines. On the fourth one, we got into a number of things I wanted to try, the sexual relationship with a creature and all that stuff. MM Why did you want to do Ghostbusters? You’d think someone coming from your background—Yale, the stage—wouldn’t be interested in a popcorn movie. SW First of all, in my family, comedy was king. If you could make someone laugh, you were a god. I was a big fan of these guys, and Ivan [Reitman]’s films. I loved the script; it was hysterically funny and such a love letter to New York. I did have to win Ivan over. I had to go up there to Universal, and he actually put me on tape. Being from the theater, it didn’t occur to me that there would be a set dog to take my place [when the character morphs into a dog]. I thought I would be in a dog suit. By the end of my audition tape, I was growling and howling and clawing at the pillows. I probably terrified him. MM When the opportunity came to reunite with James Cameron on Avatar, did you jump at it or have to be convinced? SW I jumped at it. I think he’s an amazing person and visionary. The world he creates in Avatar! I actually had to read the script three times to follow all the things that were going on in that world. I thought, Man, how’s he ever going to achieve any of this? He waited until he could do it brilliantly. MM Were you reluctant to go back to sci-fi? SW No. I’ve felt for a long time that there needs to be more and better science fiction. There are so many problems facing the planet now we need to get away—either to enjoy another place or to get some perspective on what it is to be an earthling. Science fiction is very hard to do; most of them just rip off Alien. Jim says this is the kind of movie he’d want to see when he was 14. I’d say that of me, too. It’s a great swashbuckling adventure. MM You’ll be producing and starring in G-String Mother. What attracted you to Gypsy Rose Lee? SW Her son sent me the book quite a while ago. Gypsy was a force of nature: very witty, self-educated, a novelist. And she didn’t really take her clothes off very much. She would come out in many layers, and talk in rhyming couplets and flirt with the audience, endearing herself to them. It was really the relationship with her son that was so interesting to me: she had her son and never told him who the father was. She did that on purpose. She didn’t want to be married. She wanted a family, but on her terms. From 5 through 15, he was her stage manager, and they were inseparable. The story of their life together is fascinating. MM You’re taking pole-dancing lessons. How are those going? SW I am! I did that last week. It’s very good exercise. I used a nice young man as a pole, instead of the actual thing. MM You said once that some of the most intense affairs are between actors and their characters. What’s the most intense affair you’ve had? SW Probably Ripley. It was a recurring affair. [Laughs] And we’re such diametrical opposites. I shriek at a cockroach, and she’s so heroic. She’s actually based on a friend of mine who’s an environmentalist and completely unbowed. I imagine Gypsy will feel pretty intense too. MM IMDb lists several huge films you’ve turned down: Body Heat, The Terminator, Fatal Attraction. Any you really regret? SW I think I probably turned down too much in my early years. I didn’t have a lot of confidence in some of the directors. I should have been more daring in taking some of these things on, but I was very conservative. I kept going back to the theater in search of this point where I’d say “Ah! Now I can do anything!” Now I know that life doesn’t work that way, and I’d much rather do a job than not do a job. I’ve made just about forty films. I’ve been fortunate that I’ve been able to catch up.

hero

Paul wunderlich

SurrealiSt painter paul Wunderlich WaS too Weird for the art World, but JuSt beautifully tWiSted enough for faShion. hiS liquid formS and acid colorS have inSpired Some of the moSt iconic imagery of the laSt fifteen yearS The finest feathers fall from the strangest birds. Not often does one stumble upon an internationally shown artist whose name turns eyebrows into question marks, yet whose images have inspired countless reinterpretations in fashion, design, and pop culture. Paul Wunderlich (a name that literally means “strange”) is a man whose artistic presence has eluded significant recognition in the international art world, or perhaps any world outside his native Germany. Yet his creative influence and aesthetic lineage can be seen in the work of such iconic image makers as Peter Saville, Nick Knight, Brett Anderson, and Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin; and he continues to be a source of inspiration for younger creators, including Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler. Wunderlich’s aesthetic is an interesting match for fashion. In his paintings and lithographs, his figures project an undaunted metasexuality and the sinuous, alien profiles of supermodels— so they translate easily to fashion photography. Yet the work often strikes odd notes: a devotion to ochre can be mesmerizing in one image (such as in the 1973 lithograph Mit Federhut und schwarzem Mantel, which depicts a green young lady in a feathered hat) and plainly unattractive—avocado refrigerator ugly, in fact—in others. His creative sensibilities led him to firmly ground his work, from the 1960s onward, in the moribund genre of surrealism. However, where the early surrealists dealt in the aesthetics of dream imagery and used the tenets of Freudian psychoanalysis to explore hidden desire, Wunderlich’s take on surrealism seemed to follow a very personal, individuated conceptual code. He would often combine art nouveau–esque figurations with curious elements of postmodern pastiche, reimagining classic works, including Manet’s Déjeuner sur l’herbe, to rather unsatisfying ends. But when he gets it right, his unique recalibration of physical form and otherworldly color sense can produce fantastical images ripe for interpretive plucking. Born in 1927, Wunderlich began his career in art as a painter before moving toward lithography, which he devoted himself to assiduously and mastered. In 1966, he began to collaborate with his wife, photographer Karin Székessy, on a series of works that reinterpreted her black-and-white photographs, often reconfiguring the figures into brilliantly hued paintings of succubus-esque characters bereft of clumsy corporality. These works, which extended into the ’70s, have an almost outsider-art feel. They hearken back to the erotic tension, psychedelic visuals, and devotion to design and color that defined much of the well-known art of the late ’60s. Yet they are also devoted to his recherché surrealist motifs, which, while garnering him a certain level of fame (including a commission to design porcelain for Versace), also placed him firmly out of step with the avant-garde. Maybe Wunderlich wasn’t attending all the right art parties in the 1970s, but when his alien images actually do their trick, they’re the mother’s milk of inspiration. The most instantly recognizable derivation is the 1996 album cover for Coming Up by the London Suede. Designed by Peter Saville, the artistic mind behind Joy Division’s Unknown Pleasures album cover, and photographed by Nick Knight, Coming Up is an example of fine art colliding with fashion, pop, and design-world savvy to create a 40

stunningly powerful image. “I encountered Wunderlich’s collaborations with Székessy from the ’70s in 1989,” explains Saville. “What I saw was a kind of late surrealism—a sort of ’60s into ’70s variation on surrealism, with an airbrushed ﬂatness to it. It was so wrong it was right. I could see there was a hybrid look inherent in the work whose moment would perhaps come. In 1989, I kind of felt, Well, we’re not here yet, but we may be someday.” That day came approximately six years later, when Saville met Brett Anderson from the London Suede, hot on the heels of the band’s rise to prominence following its sophomore album, Dog Man Star. Says Saville: “I’d moved back to London in 1995 from Los Angeles, and I was living out some version of the ﬁlm Casino. Brett Anderson contacted me, and I was quite touched by that. I was 40 and feeling past my sell-by date in the context of pop. I met with Brett and he asked me if I would do their record cover. I said no. I was loath to be the old guy who didn’t really get it at the end of the day. But eventually I agreed. On my second or third preparation, I saw the Wunderlich book on my shelf, and I was one hundred percent certain it was right. Brett came around the next day, I showed him, and he said ‘Fantastic, that’s it.’ I then knew we would do the image photographically, and we could do all the abstract things that Nick and I had learned on Paintbox, which was the precursor to Photoshop. It would be half photo, half painting, it would be positive, it would be negative, it would be realistic, it would be psychedelic, and it would be sexy and fucked up and drugged up and everything that Brett’s songs were about.” For Nick Knight, who would go on to shoot the cover, the collaboration between Wunderlich and Székessy unearthed

a creative desire he hopes to fulfill. “Their relationship has often made me wish for a similar way of collaborating with an artist from a different field of image making than my own,” he says. “I keep wanting to approach the painter Lisa Yuskavage, but haven’t quite plucked up the courage just yet.” The famous photographer couple Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin also derive a great deal of continuing inspiration from Wunderlich and Székessy’s artistic process (including a 2008 Self Service fashion story loosely based on some of Wunderlich and Székessy’s images). Of the Wunderlich/Székessy collaboration, says van Lamsweerde: “Seeing her photographs and his paintings pushed us to do a new series in which every image was carefully constructed and brought reality into dreams and vice versa. The freedom, distortions, and colors of his paintings opened up a realm of new techniques and ideas.” Perhaps this is where Wunderlich’s foremost influence lies—in his willingness to transcend boundaries by creating work outside the normative structures of art history and artistic practice. And though, unlike more celebrated artists of the ’70s, he may never be credited for creating an astute visual mirror of his own time period, his images are products of true visual genius. His works illuminate the insignificance of trend in great image making—they can never come into, nor go out of, time. Aimee Walleston Mit Federhut und schwarzem Mantel, 1973. Artwork Paul Wunderlich See a retrospective of Paul Wunderlich’s work on vmagazine.com

FAMILY jeweLs

album

Michael and eva chow live lives as charMed as their celebrity patrons’. but behind the GlisteninG façade of their Global eMpire—which recently expanded down south to MiaMi—it’s all about faMily. we Go inside the inner sanctuM of their beverly hills hoMe

A quick Internet search for images of “Mr. Chow” yields paparazzi picture after paparazzi picture of famous people pouring out of one of Michael Chow’s Chinese restaurants. And in Mr. Chow’s forty-plus year history, it has attracted VIPs of all sorts, from the Beatles in the ’70s to Basquiat in the ’80s to Brad Pitt in the ’90s. But it’s a pleasant surprise to learn that in the Chows’ personal residence, such photos are nowhere to be seen. In fact, the only images on display there are endearing ones of the family. Not that these are your average personal snapshots. As Eva Chow revealed on a tour of the family home—a Los Angeles mansion completed in 2005, after eight years of planning and construction—the candid shots are the work of photography icon Helmut Newton. Eva and her husband built their house around this sort of impressive, private artwork, which, in addition to the Newton portraits, includes paintings by Ed Ruscha, Keith Haring, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Julian Schnabel. “Some people design a house and then put things in it,” Eva says over lunch at the Four Seasons Hotel. “We designed the house according to what we had. In a way, it’s like couture: one-of-a-kind and made-to-measure.” Her prized possessions, however, are these Newton photographs, displayed on several meticulously organized mantles throughout the house. In her bedroom, flanked by an Ed Ruscha landscape that the artist gave as a housewarming gift, are two Newton pictures from a 1993 issue of American Vogue, in which models are wearing Chow’s dresses. “I forgot about those pictures completely,” Chow explained. “But he printed them about a decade later and gave them to me as a birthday gift.” On the mantle in a sitting room are two more pictures: one of Michael and Eva, by Newton, and another of Eva in profile, shot by Helmut’s wife, June. “The photograph of Michael and me is from when the four of us [the Newtons and the Chows] went to Chinatown for some dim sum, and Helmut took a photo,” explains Chow. “It’s a very intimate picture, with his writing on the bottom. It’s such a beautiful shot—not beautiful in the sense of what many people think is beautiful in Helmut’s work, but an amazing capture of a moment.” Then she smiles and recreates her pose in June’s picture. “It’s my favorite portrait,” she admits. On the mantle in the family room is a large portrait that Newton took of the entire family just after daughter Asia’s first birthday. Chow is lying on their dining room table, Asia is naked in her lap, and Michael is seated behind them. “You can see Helmut’s shadow, which is important to me,” Chow says, adding that Newton was one of her husband’s closest friends. But what of the celebrity shots? Surely she has a few pics of herself with the A-listers who frequent the family’s restaurants? After some pressing, Chow admits they do exist: “I had dinner recently with Roberto Cavalli and he brought me some pictures he took of us when he came to my house. There’s a picture of me, Charlize Theron, and Salma Hayek. But those aren’t on the wall.” The notion that the Chows would be more concerned with the famous faces at their restaurant than the fabulous food is a point of contention. She explains that both she and her husband attend staff meetings, and that in the case of their new Miami hot spot, they tested out their specially trained chefs for a full half-year before the doors opened. “My husband says his goal for the restaurant is to make the West understand Chinese culture, and respect it. That’s why the food is the most important thing. Not the decoration or the celebrity.” The Chows’ empire, like the art in their house, is a labor of love. “Food, fashion, music, and art—it’s all the same thing,” explains Eva, who studied with Korea’s foremost watercolor painters when she was a youth in Seoul. “It all comes from the heart. Everything comes from the heart.” Derek Blasberg Inside the Chow home, Beverly Hills, CA, September 2009 Photography Douglas Friedman 41

star

Charlotte GainsbourG survived a near-death experienCe only to beCome the latest leadinG lady to Go to hell and baCk for lars von trier 42

Dogville), it’s the central woman who undergoes a visceral and prodigious amount of suffering, while men—rational and selfish— end up contributing to it. Gainsbourg has shouldered much in her decades in the public eye. As the daughter of ’60s British sex symbol Jane Birkin and France’s hard-living pop icon Serge Gainsbourg, the 38-yearold Parisian was a celebrity at 13. Her 1985 duet with her dad, “Lemon Incest,” launched her career, whether she was ready or not. When accepting the best actress award at Cannes, she thanked her father, whom she said, “would have been proud of me, and proud of being shocked.” But Gainsbourg’s interest in Antichrist wasn’t simply about provocation. The film came at a pivotal moment for both the actress and her director. Von Trier had endured an immobilizing bout of depression, using the film as therapy to exorcise his own psychosexual demons, while Gainsbourg was hungry to get back to work after several months of recovery following a waterskiing accident and subsequent brain surgery. “I realized how close I had been to dying,” she recalls, “which makes you kind of a sissy, because you’re then afraid of everything. Each time you have a minor headache, you think you’re going to die.”

Photo assistants Jason Lee, John Maxwell, Clark Hsaio Prop styling Colin Donahue Makeup Kathy Jeung (Magnet) Hair Craig Gangi (Tracey Mattingly)

The devil inside

In Antichrist, the latest film from Danish maverick Lars von Trier, the actress, chanteuse, and model Charlotte Gainsbourg performs a horrendous litany of extremes: attempting suicide and murder, committing torture and self-mutilation. And yes, let’s be clear right away, the rumors are true: she cuts off her clitoris with scissors—in close-up. But ever since the mindblower of a movie stunned viewers at the Cannes Film Festival in May, where Gainsbourg won the award for best actress, the French performer has maintained a steady nonchalance towards the X-rated sex, wild violence, and other outré shenanigans that appear in the movie. “It wasn’t upsetting. That was the weird thing about it,” Gainsbourg says in a smooth, subdued, British-inflected tone. “It should have been upsetting, but I actually had a lot of masochistic pleasure in all the suffering,” she admits. Antichrist follows Gainsbourg’s character and her husband (Willem Dafoe) as they venture to their cabin in the woods to grapple with the death of their infant son. The story is told in four parts, moving from crippling grief to crushing pain to horrific rage to maniacal self-destruction—much of those feelings laying squarely on Gainsbourg’s delicate shoulders. Like many of von Trier’s previous films (Breaking the Waves, Dancer in the Dark,

By the time of filming Antichrist, though, she wasn’t as worried about her health; in fact, quite the other way around, she was fearless. “The extremes are so high, and the emotions are so extreme,” she says of the film. “Of course I was willing to go that way, that fast.” And as the passive love-interest in films such as The Golden Door or The Science of Sleep or the sad wife in I’m Not There or 21 Grams, Gainsbourg has had few opportunities to play a demented villain or hysterical vamp. “Very often, people see me as somebody who is tranquil and soft, so I have not been asked to put myself in such a state, to be able to go from horror to drama to a sex scene,” she says. “The range was so wide that it was really exciting.” Initially, another French actress, Casino Royale’s Eva Green, wanted the part, but her agent, according to von Trier, thought better of it. “Then to my rescue came Charlotte,” says von Trier. “The first thing she said to me was that she was dying to get the part, and I was dying to get rid of the part. So that was fine.” Accusations of misogyny and sadism have dogged von Trier over the years; Dancer in the Dark star Björk once wrote that the director needs women to provide his work soul, and hates them for it, “so he has to destroy them during filming.” But

Gainsbourg’s initial fears about the project quickly dissipated after a few meetings with von Trier. “It became very clear and very easy,” she says. In fact, her model for the character was von Trier himself—who famously suffers from panic attacks and won’t fly in airplanes. “From the very start, I had the impression that I was playing him,” she says. To understand the turmoil of the character, for example, von Trier showed Gainsbourg Internet clips of people having panic attacks on planes and telling her about his own physical symptoms. The most helpful was just watching him, and his way of shaking,” she says. Production, however, was no piece of cake. While Gainsbourg wasn’t bothered by reaching an inner place where she could realistically drill a bolt into Dafoe’s leg or violently try to fuck him, the scenes themselves were so strong that she didn’t have to “perform madness,” as she puts it. Rather, most difficult was that she had no idea what the final result of her performance would be, because von Trier stretched her in different directions for every shot. “If I was supposed to cry in a scene, he would make me go into hysterics and then try laughing,” she says. “In the end, I didn’t know what I had done, because each take was so different.”

As for the clitoridectomy, she was unfazed. “The act itself didn’t mean much,” she says. “It was more to do with the suffering and the guilt. I referred to that end point as wanting to die.” Having survived a cerebral hemorrhage and von Trier’s nightmare vision, Gainsbourg is effortlessly moving on. She’s at work on another, albeit very different ﬁlm about grief—an adaptation of Australian writer Judy Pascoe’s Our Father Who Art In a Tree, about a mother of four who loses her husband. And she’s also collaborating with Beck on a new album, tentatively titled IRM, so named for the magnetic resonance imaging machines that were so prevalent in her life following the waterskiing accident. “In the end, I kind of liked the sounds, because they were reassuring,” says the actress, once again ﬁnding solace in the macabre. “They were kind of like a lullaby.” Anthony Kaufman

Charlotte Gainsbourg in Los Angeles, August 2009 Photography Paul Jasmin Styling Heidi Bivens Bra Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière Jeans Stella McCartney Watch Gainsbourg’s own Antichrist is out now from IFC Films. IRM is out in January 2010 from Because Music

trip

STRIKE A POSE

Proenza Schouler took itS Pre-SPring collection out of the Showroom and into the wild world of video artiSt kaluP linzy. the reSult iS a Study in how to make that fleeting in-between SeaSon comPletely unforgettable Proenza Schouler’s serendipitous beginnings are, by now, well known. Studying together at Parsons, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez had yet to graduate before their entire collection was scooped up by Barneys. Seven years later, Pitti W_ Woman, the female arm to Pitti Uomo, invited them to show their Pre-Spring 2010 collection in Florence at the 15th-century Villa La Petraia, a former residence of the Medici family, reopened for the occasion. Instead of relying on the grandiose setting to enhance a classic fashion show, the duo used the occasion to launch their curated issue of A Magazine, and surprise guests by inviting three contemporary American artists to interpret the collection. In an effort to serve up “a big slice of Americana,” McCollough and Hernandez gave the accessories to installation master Haim Steinbach and the clothes to the Voluptuous Horror of Karen Black, whose black-teethed vestals performed baroque-metal versions of mainstream hits like “My Heart Will Go On.” Meanwhile, fresh off his solo show at the Studio Museum in Harlem, gender-bending video artist Kalup Linzy unveiled a new work—a hilarious video piece entitled Fuck U that stars Chloë Sevigny and PJ Ransone as jilted lovers—and a series of twelve Renaissance-inspired photographs of Liya Kebede, styled in the Pre-Spring collection. Three of them are exclusively published here. Simon Castets 44

SIMON CASTETS Where do all the Botticelli, Veneziano, and Fra Angelico references come from? JACK McCOLLOUGH Kalup actually came up with these and brought the project away from the purely fashion context. KALUP LINZY The challenge for me was to copy iconic Renaissance poses without falling into fashion standards. I had to do a little research, and I did catch an episode of America’s Next Top Model and saw that they were doing some classic poses. I was glad I caught it because now I know how they’ve been interpreted before. I don’t know the entire history of fashion—I am not as familiar with it as I am with art history. But I do know that the two often intersect. LAZARO HERNANDEZ We wanted to do something special. A pre-collection, per definition, is a more commercial thing. Showing it like we do twice a year in New York would have been silly. We needed to do something completely different. We wanted to give him the collection and see how he would interpret it. We had to step back, which was a new thing for us. SC Was it the first time you worked with an artist? LH Pretty much, at least on such a scale. It was kind of scary for us because we are such control freaks. When we shoot the collection for the lookbook, we do everything ourselves, we are always very much there. JM We are micromanagers. LH Kalup would shoot a portrait and I would say, “Oh…but the silhouette is about the legs and the shoes!” JM We just had to step back and let him do his thing. LH It was worth it. The collection had nothing to do with anything Italian or anything Renaissance, it was completely about 1960s subcultures, Hawaiian culture, and a lot of Tahitian references. SC Kalup’s character Taiwan could be from a Gauguin painting. LH Yeah definitely. Weirdly it all kind of loosely connected— Taiwan looking like a Gauguin girl, these Renaissance poses in this 15th-century villa... JM References all blended and became a complete thing. It became bigger than any of us could have imagined. LH It’s hard to find artists to collaborate with because fashion has to be related to their own work. You cannot force clothing onto an artist or it’s a disaster. But here it makes perfect sense because his characters are defined by the way they look. Styling is an inherent part of his work. It’s a medium. KL Which is clearer to me in a way that it wasn’t before. I began

to see it differently. I never saw myself in the context of fashion. I have always done costume but I never saw the potential of high fashion. Now we are shooting a series with clothes from Proenza Schouler, so I am thinking all this through in a new way. It has inspired me and it has also given me access to things that I didn’t have access to before. LH We have given Kalup clothes for his different projects and it’s cool to think that these clothes are not only being sold in stores, they also have a completely different purpose. It’s nice to see our own work filtered through a different vision. What Kalup does is so specific to Kalup. SC It also seems that with this project for Pitti you had a sort of coming-of-age together, with Proenza Schouler getting so much exposure in an international context, and Kalup’s work being so sleek, produced with more money than usual. LH Right. We were all very impressed by this. We all got there and we were like, “Wow!” [Laughs] We had no idea how great it was going to be. JM The photographs were done the night before. We got there the next day and thought, Oh, these are kind of…high level. LH And it was very different being there in Europe than working in New York. JM The whole thing really freaked people out. LH All the older Italian people freaked out. “Is that a man in a bodysuit? A woman’s bodysuit?” It was amazing. SC In A Magazine, you made multiple references to land art and the austere work of Michael Heizer and Robert Morris. Meanwhile, there is this completely baroque dimension to the Pitti project with the Voluptuous Horror of Karen Black and Kalup. LH We were most interested in showcasing people who have a unique vision… JM And celebrating people’s diversities. They all have a very specific system that they work within, as individuals. That is what we were inspired by—the wide array of people. KL This is what the American theme represents. Individualism and a melting pot of it all. Kalup Linzy and Liya Kebede in Florence, Italy, May 2009 Photography Sarah Silver Production Proenza Schouler/Pitti Immagine/Art Production Fund Clothing and shoes Proenza Schouler Pre-Spring 2010

“I never saw myself In the context of fashIon. I never saw the potentIal. now we are shootIng a serIes wIth clothes from proenza schouler, so I am thInkIng all thIs through In a new way.” –kalup lInzy

sound

CHAOS THEORY

Though virtually unknown in his native France, the experimental symphonic composer Koudlam is no stranger to the international art and music scene. And though the New Museum showing proved a massive breakthrough for Gaillard, Koudlam hasn’t yet attracted the same attention, though not for lack of aspirations. Having been quoted in the European press as producing music “not for one hundred people, but for millions,” Koudlam has spent the past year readying a sophomore album of tracks described as the Doors meets Vangelis—rich, shadowy, elemental, and tribal, as romantic as they are apocalyptic. The mysterious Koudlam (a nickname meaning “knife stab” in bad French) was born in a small town in the French Alps in 1979 but bounced around Western Europe, Africa, and Latin America throughout his adolescence—a fact that’s evident in his work, which often combines Maasai drumming, Aztec melodies, and Native American flute sounds in a single track. He composed his first song at the age of 13, while living in Côte d’Ivoire. “I heard the music of the Doors and it was like a bomb went off in my Sometimes great artists work quietly in the background. Other head,” he explains. “It was like my own creative big bang.” times, they’re in the fore, but still hard to spot under a proHis self-produced 2006 album, Nowhere, suffered from lack jection of the latest French video art. Last spring at the open- of funding (“I was looking for a label but nobody wanted to sign ing of the New Museum’s new triennial “Younger Than Jesus,” me—it was too weird for them,” he explains) but nonetheless the standout showing was undoubtedly the work of mixed- ignited a creative spark that attracted people like Gaillard, with media artist Cyprien Gaillard. But who was the handsome whom Koudlam began collaborating the same year. Their videos stranger pacing, fidgeting, and occasionally crooning in front and live performances, which combine Gaillard’s found footage of Gaillard’s clever found footage? And just how did his lush of Russian street gang riots with Koudlam’s beautifully ornate soundscapes and broken vocals make the installation more compositions, garnered praise from the contemporary art scene. emotive and more profound? His music contrasts with the innate violence of Gaillard’s work,

French composer Koudlam has produced beautiFul sound tracKs to gang riots and demolitions. his new album is both soFter and harder than anything he’s ever done

and yet somehow heightens its sense of melancholy. Though both artists share a fascination with entropy, where Gaillard literally destroys, Koudlam offers hope. As he explains in the third person, “Koudlam is an optimist.” It is this fact that Koudlam’s new release, Goodbye, communicates most clearly. The music is at once softer and harder than before, though neither one for long stretches. A given track might begin with innocent synth melodies, but end in a car crash of vocals and classical arrangements. The songs are undulating and ever-changing, each one completely different from the next, a sort of fantastic voyage through sounds and styles. “It’s wild as a hyena, and pure as gold,” he explains, somewhat cryptically. As part of an ongoing journey to “save music from mediocrity,” Koudlam sometimes ﬁnds himself performing around the globe in far-ﬂung locations, like on top of a crane in Berlin, or deep inside an ancient ruin in Rome. He set the bar high early in his career with a performance in Mexico at the ancient Aztec city Teotihuacán. There, atop the Pyramid of the Sun, he assured an audience of illegal Euro immigrants and curious locals that the ride ahead would be anything but ordinary. Christopher Bartley Koudlam at Oscar Wilde’s grave in Cimetière du Père-Lachaise, Paris, September 2009 Photography Andrea Spotorno Goodbye is out in November 2009 from Pan European Recording. Hear more from Koudlam and see his video collaborations with Cyprien Gaillard on vmagazine.com

BODY OF WORK

release

A new book unveils the sun, sAnd, And beAutiful bodies of Rio, As seen by theiR gReAtest documentARiAn, mARio testino. heRe he chAts with gisele bÜndchen to find out why bRAziliAns do it best What would Mario Testino be without Brazil? What would Brazil be without Mario Testino? And what would the world be like without the fast, fun, and frisky images that inevitably result when the two come together? The love story started in the ’70s, but only recently did the famed photographer from Peru think to zoom in on the city of Rio as the subject of a book, MaRio de Janeiro. Here he talks to supermodel Gisele Bündchen, the city’s unofﬁcial icon, to get to the bottom of that unmistakable, irresistible Brazilian appeal. Christopher Bartley

GISELE BÜNDCHEN So the book is out. You have to send me a copy! MARIO TESTINO You are on the cover! GB I know, I love that photo. It’s the perfect picture to illustrate loving life. MT The phrase that everybody wants to quote in their stories is the one of you saying that I’m the person who respects you the most and understands you the most and at the same time the one who pushes you the most. GB You better believe it! I’ll be sitting there on a shoot thinking, What exactly am I doing? Why is my ass on the cover of this magazine? But because you are so nice and you have this way, I’m like, How can I say no to Mario? MT The thing is that I’ve never made you look bad, no? GB That is true! Those pictures are very you, but they are deﬁnitely the sexiest pictures I’ve ever taken. MT You have the perfection, the body, the skin, the hair, the hands, the wrists, the ankles, the neck—you know, so it gives people something. I’m the one who helps you share it with the world. GB Thank you. So why did you choose Rio as the focus of the book? MT Well, years ago when you and I went to Rio to do the Allure story, I discovered the only way I could be myself in my work was by bringing back my youth, and Rio was a huge part of my life because I used to go there every summer to go wild. GB What do you think sets Brazilians apart? MT I guess the liberty of mind and body. You can go to Carnaval and the girls are almost naked and it’s a normal thing. People go to the beach with tiny bathing suits with their asses in the air. The guys have these swimsuits and you can see everything. So I think there’s a freedom with the body. GB People in Brazil live life very differently. MT I think there’s a joy for living in Brazil that is very particular to Brazilians. They love life and everything is a joke and everything is a song and everything is a dance. GB What are some of your favorite places in Brazil? I’m sure Rio is number one. MT I adore all of Brazil, but Rio brings all of it together because it is a city on the beach. You can go swimming and then go to the bank or the supermarket in your bathing suit. GB What is your favorite image from the book? MT You and Carlos Bokelmann, because it’s the most intimate, private, beautiful moment. It reminds me of being young. GB You get these kinds of pictures because you are very charismatic. MT It’s the intimacy that I have with the Brazilian people, because they’ve seen me around for the past thirty years. When I go there it’s as if I’m going home. Guisela Rhein and Rodrigo Calazans in Rio Photography Mario Testino MaRio de Janeiro is out now from Taschen

news

PLUG IT IN

Visionaire rings in 2010 with a digital surVey of the contemporary art market May 1, 2010 Ryan McGinley, Untitled (Waterfall), 2008 Curated by Kate Moss Courtesy Team Gallery, NYC

Since the art world flies at the speed of light, a calendar-slashdigital art guide could be just the breakthrough invention the next decade needs. For its latest issue, Visionaire invited fifty-two guest curators and art cognoscenti to nominate artists, one for each day of the calendar year, who will define 2010 and beyond. Housed in a sleek electronic calendar produced in collaboration with German automotive brand smart, the issue offers insight into the highly evolved art tastes of everyone from curators like Okwui Enwezor and Klaus Biesenbach to famed collectors like Jean Pigozzi to art-conscious celebs like Kate Moss and Tilda Swinton. Each one curated a week’s worth of their favorite artists, often to surprising results—like Raf Simons’s eerily prescient selection of artist Dana Schutz’s Autopsy of Michael Jackson, or Mary-Kate Olsen’s rather astute inclusion of California painter Squeak Carnwath (a one-time mentor of Nate Lowman). 2010 is a picture of the contemporary art market in all its weird and wise permutations. Jeff Groen Visionaire 2010 is out in November 2009. www.visionaireworld.com

September 1, 2010 Richard Jackson, The Laundry Room (Death of Marat), 2009 Curated by Mary-Kate Olsen Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth, Zurich/London

BOOK OF DREAMS

cartier celebrates 100 years in america with Jean cocteau’s new york sketchbook and an update of its iconic trinity ring New York City has been a source of inspiration for countless creative minds. Some have loved it, others have felt suffocated under its weight. For the French poet Jean Cocteau, it was both, as evidenced by a sketchbook he kept on his ﬁrst trip to America, in January 1949. In addition to drawings of the skyline and portraits from his imagination, the book includes brief texts that describe his 48

November 12, 2010 Mark Flood, Green Box (detail), 2008 Curated by Shamim M. Momin

experience. “The City is loving and cruel: never changing and always changing,” one page reads. “She is the nurturer and protector on one side and the villain on the other.” Cocteau’s journey to New York mirrored that of another French legend, Pierre Cartier, who, a half-century earlier, crossed the Atlantic to set up an American arm of the family jewelry business—one of the ﬁrst European luxury brands to do so. Cartier, which this year is celebrating its one hundredth anniversary in America, now owns Cocteau’s sketchbook—a purchase made as a tribute to the poet, who was a longtime client. In 1955, Cocteau designed his own Cartier sword, crafted with stones given to him by Coco Chanel and Francine Weisweiller. But his favorite Cartier piece was the iconic Trinity ring, created in 1924. This season, Cartier updated that classic with star shapes ﬁlled with diamonds. No doubt Cocteau would have been enthralled by it. Derek Blasberg

WORK IN PRO GRESS

BERLIN ART NOW Photography Jason Schmidt 50

FOUND IN TRANSLATION

Saâdane afif might be the firSt rock Star of inStallation art. When he’S through With hiS Sign-baSed WorkS, he commiSSionS muSicianS to tranSlate their meaning into lyricS and perform them aS SongS. here he ShareS three lineS that deScribeS thiS portrait “Tell me now your secret to turn so fast and Play with my nerves and make already old Today.” Excerpt from “Blue Time vs Suspense,” by Vale Poher Saâdane Aﬁf

THE SECOND SEX

artiSt dorothy iannone haS Spent 40 yearS developing a Spiritual retelling of female Sexuality via pSychedelic mural draWingS in Which her oWn life Story takeS center Stage In this photograph, taken on Sunday April 5, 2009—and, exceptionally, a sunny day in Berlin—I am “working” in my studio on Tickles My Fancy, a gouache painting on board. The lower half of All, a large oil painting from 1967, which was the very last work I made in New York before I came to live in Europe, is behind me. And, resting against the wall on the shelf below the painting are some of my artists’ books and exhibition catalogues, such as Danger In Düsseldorf, Censorship and the Irrepressible Drive Toward Love and Divinity, Lists IV (A Much More Detailed than Requested Reconstruction), and Follow Me. I am relaxed with the photographer, Jason Schmidt, who arrived perhaps an hour earlier. We have become acquainted through a tour of the apartment and the atelier, as well as by looking through his book of artists’ portraits, which I immediately loved. Dorothy Iannone

work in progress

RELATIVE CHAOS

artiSt katja Strunz tranSformS the found fragmentS of her life into Sculptural landScapeS on gallery WallS André Breton once said, “The wardrobe is full of laundry. Even moonbeams are enclosed that I can display.” That’s my studio: a place that holds plenty of materials and fragments of destruction. The works I produce there are unfolded constructive fragments, they are representations of these relics that fell into my present. Katja Strunz

INSIDE OUT

artiSt uWe henneken SubvertS the grand hiStory of european painting With SymbolS, allegorieS, and Strange SpiritS In this picture you see me with one of my little friends. Friends. A simple word, isn’t it? Uttered every day to almost every person imaginable. Who are your friends? What are they and where? One said it’s hard to live with them and it’s much harder without. And one who tries to live alone will not succeed in this world, not as a human being. His heart withers if it does not answer another heart, and his mind will shrink away and vapor, hearing only the echoes of his own thoughts; and the vast of silence stretching above him, around him too, will deafen him, it will close his ears. Whatever it is that my friends are saying, it’s absolutely true and terribly important and they say it with a sincerity one could only wish for. If I were pressed to give them words, I’d give them these: Here I am. It’s me. I’m here. Take heart, my friends, and think, Who made those eyes that see, can’t he look out from yours? Who in a world of widows pities whores and gives to countless tiny friends the heart to speak? But if they’d move from silence to sound, with a still small voice, would the world shudder? Would my heart stop? Or would the spring slide through our winter? May God bless us all. Uwe Henneken With thanks to David Tibet and Baby Dee for lending me some of their words

lenz von johnston

jessica de ruiter

Age: 23 Occupation: Model Hometown: The west coast of a small lake in Bavaria called Ammersee Where do you live now? Homeless between New York and Berlin How were you discovered? On a movie set in Berlin by the beautiful makeup artist Moe May Highlight of your career so far? Living in a two-bedroom apartment with 8 other guys! Tell us about the von Johnston family. We are an old Scottish clan that has become a conservative German family—except for my father, who was a revolutionary in Paris and Berlin in 1968. The von Johnston family wasn’t amused How would you describe your walk? Rich, sexy, and expensive. Think Zoolander Who is your favorite singer? David Hasselhoff. Not only did he cause the fall of the Berlin Wall, he also brought the electric light to East Germany Favorite hangout: Epistrophy Morning routine: Wake up. Snooze! Wake up. Snooze!! Snooze!!! Guilty pleasure: Being too fat for Prada Who was your ﬁrst kiss? I tried to kiss all the girls in kindergarten, but only succeeded with Sandra How would you describe your personal style? I am la fashione!

Age: 30 Occupation: Fashion stylist Hometown: Toronto, Canada Where do you live? Silver Lake in Los Angeles, California How would you describe your style? Understated, effortless, smart, an element of imperfection, and deﬁnitely beyond the urgency of fashion Current obsessions: Adrère Amellal, an eco-lodge located in an oasis in the desert of Siwa, Egypt. I have never experienced anything like it! Guilty pleasure: Pomeranians Morning routine: A 6:30 a.m. yoga class starts my day most mornings. I love getting up early when the sun is rising and the day is full of possibility Favorite song: I guess “This Must be the Place” by Talking Heads On my wish list: I like to purchase high quality, timeless pieces so that I can keep them in rotation for years to come. My wish list right now includes Heath ceramics, Isabel Marant herringbone coat, Olatz pajamas, Acne high-waisted jeans, Schiesser black lace bra, Ricky Swallow sculpture, and surﬁng lessons! Idea of happiness: Being right here, right now Worst nightmare: Wearing fur

Photography Adam Fedderly Styling Catherine Newell-Hanson Lenz wears Jacket Diesel Sweater Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony Makeup Kristen Gallegos (Bryan Bantry) Hair Fred van de Bunt (Art Department)

Photography Todd Cole Jessica wears Dress and belt Jasmin Shokrian Watch Cartier Jewelry her own

lucien marc smith

atlanta noo de cadenet taylor

Age: 20 Occupation: Artist Hometown(s): Stroudsburg, PA; Baton Rouge, LA; Secaucus, NJ; L.A.; New York! I get around Favorite artist: Anyone clocking hours to put it out there Favorite hangout: Don Juan Deli!! Broome and Forsyth Favorite music: Tupac and Cat Stevens (“Trouble”) Currently working on: Self control Morning routine: Orange juice and a blunt for breakfast Current obsession: Going home alone Idea of happiness: Free drinks for the homies Worst nightmare: Boundaries, unconscious decisions, not being able to right my wrongs, makin’ mistakes, lazinesssss, parents dying, losin’ limbs

Age: 17 Occupation: Model Hometown: London Where do you live? Los Angeles What is the story behind your middle name? My parents [John Taylor and Amanda de Cadenet] used to call each other “Noo,” so I guess they just stuck it in there Favorite bands: Radiohead and Bob Dylan Favorite Duran Duran song: “Girls On Film” and “The Chauffeur” Current obsessions: Michael Jackson’s mysterious death, my Nikon ﬁlm camera, the TV show The Wire, some old Dr. Martens I found in NYC, and Shia LaBeouf Weekend hangout: I probably spend too much time at the Roosevelt Hotel and at Real Food Daily in West Hollywood In 10 years you’ll be: Living in the West Village in New York City Best clothes you’ve inherited from your parents: I’m still waiting for a lot of hand-me-downs from my mother, but I would say old vintage dresses and lace pieces. Also, some satin Chanel headpieces

Photography Cameron Krone Styling Tom Van Dorpe Lucien wears Jacket Raf Simons T-shirt and shirt Uniqlo Jewelry his own Grooming Ryoji Imaizumi (Marek & Associates) Photo assistant Christopher Arzt

Photography Amanda de Cadenet Styling Keegan Singh Atlanta wears Dress Azzedine Alaïa Makeup Robin Black (Frank Reps) Hair John (Frank Reps) Retouching Magda Meissner

Make way for a new generation of scene starters and shakers. V gets to know 8 Men and woMen causing waVes in art, Music, and fashion

people

martin cohn

mickey sumner

Age: Whatever the script calls for Occupation: Actor Hometown: Manhattan Where do you currently live: West Village Favorite fashion designers: Zaldy, Pleasure Principle, Rodarte, Christophe Decarnin, Rick Owens, Riccardo Tisci Current obsessesions: Ponyo, True Blood, The Witches of Eastwick Describe your look. I don’t really think about it as a “look.” I just wear what feels right for me, and what looks good. I know that to most people I can seem extreme or eccentric—but it’s really just me. My hair seems to be a point of interest, but I went blond and that’s that. Blond isn’t crazy or outlandish. And besides, it suits me! What are you working on? I’m doing a short ﬁlm in a few weeks that I’m really excited about. It’s going to be fun and I know it’s going to turn out really beautiful. I met the director through a casting, and we got along great. The story is surreal and my character is strange, but other than that, I can’t talk about it. Don’t want to jinx things!

Age: 25 Occupation: Actor, artist, entrepreneur Hometown: Salisbury, England Where do you live: L.A. at the moment, but usually New York Describe the craziest meal you’ve ever had. I was living in Bangkok at the time, and was walking down the street when a crazy Frenchman ran up to me shouting “You only live once!” and wiggling a deep fried cockroach in front of my face. He was right, so I ate it. I’ve also eaten maggots, but that’s another story… Current obsessions: Getting lost in L.A., Sunday Night Football (nothing like watching muscle-y men running around in Lycra), ukulele lessons, and cooking dinner with my boyfriend What are you working on? Just ﬁnished a short ﬁlm called North Pond directed by Tim Nazzaro. Now I’m back in L.A. auditioning a bunch and working on a video installation for Voodoo Fest in New Orleans. Life is pretty goddamn sweet

Photography Cameron Krone Styling Tom Van Dorpe Martin wears Shirt Prada Jacket Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci Grooming Ryoji Imaizumi (Marek & Associates) Photo assistant Christopher Arzt

Photography Sasha Eisenman Styling Jessica de Ruiter Mickey wears Dress H&M Jewelry her own Makeup Robin Black (Frank Reps) Hair Yiotis (Celestine Agency)

angel deradoorian

kyle thurman

Age: 22 Occupation: Musician and member of the band Dirty Projectors Hometown: Orangevale, CA Where do you live now? Brooklyn, NY Favorite musician: Arthur Russell Highlight of your career: When my manager submitted my music to the NY Mets to sing the National Anthem. Crossin’ my fingers Why did your parents name you Angel? After the Sarah McLaughlin song Current obsessions: Jivamukti, specifically the sun salutation Favorite song lyric you’ve written, and why: The words to the song “Pineapple City” because it was a dual effort with my best friend Swordfish Macauley Favorite place to write music: On an island Morning routine: G-chat First band you played in: The Black Cadillac Gypsies

Age: 22 Occupation: Artist and curator Hometown: West Chester, PA Where do you live? East Village, NYC Favorite artists: Right now, Fischli & Weiss, Gedi Sibony, Uri Aran, and Olivier Mosset Current obsessions: I recently saw the “Cézanne and Beyond” show at the Philadelphia Museum of Art and was amazed by Matisse’s Bathers with a Turtle. I’m also pretty psyched on Saigon Vietnamese Sandwich (a Vietnamese deli on Broome Street) Morning routine: I check the surf reports online before leaving my house to get a coffee at Steve’s on the Bowery. I wander around downtown for a few hours. I always stop at St. Mark’s Bookshop. I carry my digital camera around everywhere because I use snapshots as notes and reference points for my work. What are you working on: I am working on a bunch of new paintings and sculptures. My work reacts to objects and situations that I encounter in my daily life; I am really interested in notions of transcendence and sustenance. Also, thinking about some new show ideas with my friend Matt Moravec, with whom I co-curated “New Deal” at Art Production Fund. We both have strong opinions about current trends in emerging art. And, I’m trying to get together the ﬁrst issue of an art and culturebased surﬁng magazine that I want to start called The Wave!

Photography Miguel Villalobos Styling Emily Eisen Angel wears Dress Marc Jacobs Necklace her own Makeup Kristy Jones and Stacy Matthews (Betty Lash) Hair Jean Barton (Path Salon)

Photography KT Auleta Styling Brian Molloy Kyle wears Jacket Woolrich Woolen Mills T-shirt, jeans, hat Dsquared Jewelry his own Grooming Maki Ryoke (Tim Howard Management) Hair Anja Grasseger Photo assistant Jerome Corpuz Stylist assistant Grace Kapin Digital technician Joe Gunn Retouching Pixelway

luchford looks back This November, fashion photographer Glen Luchford’s influence, as both an iconic lensman and a digital trailblazer, is being honored with a retrospective monograph from Steidl. A fire that tragically destroyed many of his original prints drove Luchford to think about producing a book: “I realized I needed to find a way to archive my work.” Beginning with the first image Luchford ever published (a black-and-white portrait of Ian Brown from the Stone Roses), the book catalogs not just his rise to prominence as a contemporary fashion photographer of unparalleled visual acuity (creating career-defining images for Prada, Yves Saint Laurent, and Calvin Klein, among many others), but also his role as one of the first well-known early adopters of digital photography. Luchford continues today to stand on the front lines of the digital revolution, creating iconic fashion imagery while meeting the ever-increasing demands of clients addicted to digital’s quick fix. “Recently,” says Luchford, “a client asked me to shoot a print campaign and a TV commercial all in one day. I accepted, just for the pure insanity of that request.” Spoken like a true photo pioneer. Aimee Walleston

nabokov rises

Photography Cameron Krone

reiss rocks out

The Original of Laura is out on November 17, 2009, from Knopf

Reiss, the upscale fast-fashion brand, has announced its foray into the world of luxe denim with its ﬁrst capsule collection, 1971 Reiss. Inspired less by the hippie movement than by style-pioneering rock gods, 1971 Reiss (which references the year the brand was launched) channels early Rolling Stones style on a starving artist’s budget. Along with its range of iconic denim cuts, the women’s line includes tailored waistcoats and studded handbags, while the men’s collection offers the kind of vintage-inspired workwear (think rough-and-tumble biker jackets) that no self-respecting rock star would go without. Catherine Blair Pfander

palais de tokyo gets lost This fall, the Palais de Tokyo explores artists’ attempts at disappearance with “Chasing Napoleon.” Playing with high frequency sounds, air vents, smoke, and drains, eighteen artists have hidden their works within the entrails of the museum, exploring different ways to escape from the visible realm, sometimes literally: Christoph Büchel reconstituted the hole in which Saddam Hussein concealed himself. “Chasing Napoleon” also introduces the work of American artist Paul Laffoley, who makes occult-looking mandalas (left) inspired by his belief of having passed through the ﬁfth dimension. Simon Castets “Chasing Napoleon” runs through January 17, 2010, at Palais de Tokyo, Paris 58

choo for all Jimmy Choo is expanding its repertoire beyond the red carpet. Following in the footsteps of Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, and Matthew Williamson, the British accessories brand is collaborating with Swedish mega retailer H&M. The collection, which hits stores November 14th, includes mens- and womenswear in addition to accessories. Think faux fur, fringe, studs, and plenty of stilettos for women and sleek basics for the boys. Though signiﬁcantly cheaper, this installment of Choo packs all of the party-ready punch of the main line. Alisa Gould-Simon

Reiss photo Styling Catherine Newell-Hanson Makeup Rie Omoto (See Management) Hair Rebecca Plymate (See Management) Model Liliane Ferrarezi (Ford NY); Nabokov photo courtesy the estate of Vladimir Nabokov; Paul Laffoley, Temporality: The Great Within of the Universe, 1974. Courtesy the artist and Kent Gallery, NYC

On November 17th, the last wishes of one of the world’s greatest literary figures will be irrevocably dashed. Upon his death in 1977, Vladimir Nabokov left unequivocal instructions that his unfinished novel The Original of Laura be destroyed. Now his son, Dmitri— who, along with the late Mrs. Nabokov, could never bring himself to commit the dirty book burning deed—has decided to publish it. If papa Nabokov is spinning in his grave, let him take comfort in the stroke of brilliance accomplished by his estate’s literary agent: Playboy has been granted first serial rights and will be publishing an excerpt in its December issue. Oh, well-read fans of literary smut, rejoice! Jacob Brown

chat

nel lt Cha k ir t, be ow n Top, s ’s g n C hu J a c ke t

abb

ana

Photo assistant Kaita Takemura Stylist assistant Ryan Jordan Retouching Silhouette Special thanks Pier 59 Studios, NYC Makeup Tamah Krinsky (See Management) Hair Rebecca Plymate (See Management)

Jumpsuit Stella

Mc Cartney

D res

lce s Do

LET’S TALK ABOUT ALEXA CHUNG

She came to New York to Save mtv aNd became her geNeratioN’S SmarteSt, cooleSt, aNd moSt-talked-about talk Show hoSt iN the proceSS Alexa Chung, the recent London expat and Brooklyn resident whose MTV show It’s On with Alexa Chung took over the coveted TRL spot this summer, is a busy lady. An average day goes something like this: up at 6:40 a.m., she gets dressed and heads over the Williamsburg Bridge to the MTV ofﬁces. Once there, she’s briefed, goes through the day’s scripts, gets her hair and makeup done, and reviews her audio cues. Next, she’s on set, where she greets the day’s special guests, pumps up the crowd, and does her show. The audience goes nuts, the show ends, there are meetings about the next day’s schedule, then a security guard

walks her to her car for the ride home. It was there, in the backseat, that she ﬁnally found time to do an interview. Here, the new darling of daytime talk discusses her hit show, grumpy guests, and her new life on this side of the pond. Derek Blasberg DEREK BLASBERG How was your show today? ALEXA CHUNG Great! I had Jason Bateman on, and he’s amazing. DB Do you meet your guests before the show? AC Yeah, just before, but it’s very quick. DB You know, Oprah doesn’t meet her guests beforehand. AC What? Why not? DB Because she wants the initial reaction to be seen on TV and shared with her public. AC That’s ’cause she’s optimistic, and she’s banking on everyone loving Oprah. I’m worried my guests won’t like me, so I have to get the awkwardness out of the way in the beginning. DB Oh, come on, are you really worried? AC I’m just trying to suss them out so I know if I’m going to have to work hard for the interview, if they’re going to be chatty or not. DB Without naming names, have you met someone during this pregame and thought, Well, this is going to be awful? AC Hmmm, there have been some shitty Disney stars on the show. But they’re never horrible; they’re always really nice. Oh, I just thought of one: Christopher Mintz-Plasse was a bit of a nob. He was the real geek in Superbad, not Michael Cera. But most people are all right, and they talk. To be honest, it’s usually the publicists who are the dickheads. They get paid to do the dirty work. [To the driver] Hey, can you drive a bit slower? DB You don’t like to go fast. You’re wearing a seat belt too. AC I wear it always, even in yellow taxis. They can drive like real wankers in this town. I get scared. DB Right, so apart from the transportation, how is New York treating you? Do you like living in Williamsburg? AC It’s really nice, but I think my apartment is too shiny. I just found out that [the actor] Ian Somerhalder used to live in it. And the other day when I was in the laundry room, I heard that Michael Douglas’s son is looking to move into the building. DB So what does all that mean?

AC It means I’m paying too much money to live in Williamsburg! DB Is it a posh apartment then? Do you have a doorman? AC Yeah, there’s a doorman. DB Oh, for some reason I thought you were roughing it in hard-core Brooklyn. Like, I thought you lived in a tenement. AC No, it’s not. It’s shiny! DB You hate shiny. That’s one of my ﬁrst memories of you: you were carrying a new Louis Vuitton bag and you hated how new it looked, so you kept slamming it against buildings and kicking it. Why do you hate shiny things so much? AC I guess I like things to look more authentic. Or maybe I just like that haggard look. I grew up in a cottage, so I like things to look like the plaster is falling off. DB Do you think it’s easier or harder to make friends now that you have a TV show? AC I don’t really have any friends in America. DB Ouch! AC Well, I have some friends. But I’m working all the time, and, also, I just think that I’m a good judge of character. DB And there isn’t anyone good to meet in this town? AC I just don’t tolerate douche bags. You get them in England too, those people who just sort of hang out and hold coats or something. But there’s more of them here. It’s like they make jobs as friends, like your best friend is your stylist now. DB What do you miss most about the homeland? AC Life is a bit less professional in England, and it seems like everyone is on a bit of a jolly. Here you have people—and this can be a good thing—who take their job very seriously, even if they’re doing something awful. DB Will you go back to England when this MTV gig is done? AC I don’t know. I went to a wedding last weekend [in England] and when I got back here I was quite relieved to be home in New York. Whoa, I guess that’s the ﬁrst time I actually said that and meant it: “Home in New York.” Alexa Chung in NYC, July 2009 Photography Sharif Hamza Styling Catherine Newell-Hanson 59

CARTieR GeTS pOeTiC What Cartier’s minimalist new line of fragrance, Les Heures de Parfum, lacks in glitz, it makes up for in fanciful inspiration. Ambitiously taking “the spectrum of human emotions” as reference, the ﬁve perfumes intend to evoke universally relatable moments. The charming poems accompanying each fragrance specify the “mood” of the scent—so if the heady L’Heure de Promise doesn’t smell exactly like “fresh early mornings at the dawn of intentions,” it ought to at least put a kick in your step. Catherine Blair Pfander

RXART iN COLOR For children, coloring between the lines is a challenge of visual dexterity. To an adult purchasing the new between the lines coloring book, the latest in RxArt’s annual series of art projects, the dictate seems more like a creative challenge: what would Raymond Pettibon do? The punk artist contributed one of ﬁfty original line drawings to the book, so you can channel his creative energy, or perhaps decide that his scribbly aesthetic is better applied to the hyperclean lines of Takashi Murakami’s pop creation. Because between the lines costs only $20 (and is free to children being treated at participating hospitals),

only good can come from a little playful experimentation. And the project’s impressive roster of contributors—including Olaf Breuning, Dan Colen, Wade Guyton, and Adam McEwen (above, as colored by George Condo exclusively for V)—means there are plenty of tableaus awaiting creative inspiration. Is Pepto-Bismol an appropriate coloring material for Ed Ruscha’s contribution? And where does one ﬁnd crayons in the eye-searing colors preferred by Ben Jones? It’s all up to you—coloring books were never meant to have rules. Ken Miller between the lines is out in November 2009 from RxArt

Ap TO ORdeR

Back in August, London band the xx showed up in New York and played what seemed like a million sold-out shows. In the course of a week, they were on the tips of everyone’s tongues, and had set up the U.S. release of their smash U.K. debut. The band can be described with all of the typical music-writer lingo: gothy, shoegazer, ’80s echo-chamber, but its sexy, boy-girl vocals are unlike anything else out there. “Night Time” and “Crystalised” are perfectly suited for late night gropings on or off the dance ﬂoor, and it’s hard to imagine another band capable of covering Aaliyah’s “Hot Like Fire” and making it sound like an old Cure song. T. Cole Rachel

At Agent Provocateur, people can never be too rich or racy. This November, the British lingerie brand is launching Agent Provocateur Soirée, an unabashedly luxurious collection that takes kink to a couture level. Among the more tantalizing pieces: a playsuit comprised of Swarovski crystal strands and a pair of bejeweled pasties; a stretch silk smoking jacket, shown on the runway with thigh-high stockings and an ofﬁcer’s cap; and an Italian leather-lined corset, handembellished with biker studs and 2-inch metal spikes. Ask how much and you might get spanked. Karin Nelson

xx is out now on Young Turks

Hedi ON FiLM Within the world of fashion imagery, Americana is a constant source of inspiration. The established interpret it one way, up-and-comers another, but no one approaches it with quite the same raw, bounding youthfulness as Hedi Slimane. Now the designer-turnedphotographer has curated a DVD box set of great American ﬁlms titled American Youth. From Rebel Without A Cause to Mysterious Skin, the selection is expectedly on point. But what’s most interesting is watching these iconic ﬁlms and noticing all of the elements that, at one stage of his career or another, have caught Slimane’s eye. For a new generation of photographers and designers, this box set will become Required Watching 101. Everyone else can just enjoy the movies. Jacob Brown Photography Hedi Slimane American Youth is out now from MK2

Photography Cameron Krone

RAdO GeTS RAdiCAL Known for its high-tech and rather unconventional designs, Swiss watch brand Rado has just unveiled its latest showstoppers: a collection of eight timepieces created in collaboration with inﬂuential industrial designer Jasper Morrison. Crafted from black ceramic with curved contours and a seamless fusing of case with bracelet, the r5.5 line is a study in futuristic simplicity. Precisely what you’d expect from the guy who established the elegant and straightforward Super Normal design movement. Rachel Park

Adam McEwen, Need Help? 2009, colored in by George Condo. Courtesy the artist and Nicole Klagsbrun Gallery; XX photo courtesy Young Turks; Agent Provocateur photo Styling Catherine Newell-Hanson Makeup Rie Omoto (See Management) Hair Rebecca Plymate (See Management) Model Liliane Ferrarezi (Ford NY)

XX BReAKS OUT

ﬁlm

MAGIC MOUNTAIN

China’s next breakthrough epiC was shot at the ends of the earth, whiCh is fitting for a film that aims for global Crossover It is a difficult trek to the windswept northwestern corner of China, where celebrated director Tian Zhuangzhuang’s latest film, The Warrior and the Wolf, is set. But, according to the actress Maggie Q, the trip is well worth it. “It was literally like a thirty-six-hour flight and then another two-hour flight and then a nine-hour drive in a rickety trailer and then you showed up to this town that was like potatoes and goats and that was it,” says Q, who has also starred in Live Free or Die Hard and Mission: Impossible III. “But, weirdly, you get all the way out there to the middle of nowhere and you feel this deeper meaning and this sense of purpose. You can kind of unravel who you are daily and just immerse yourself in what it is that you’re trying to portray.” The film, based on a short story by Japanese author Yasushi Inoue, is a historical epic set in 300 B.C. that centers on the blossoming romance between a soldier sent to a distant camp to defend his border and a local woman, played by Maggie Q, from the mysterious and rather feral Harran tribe. The film centers around the conflicts that arise when two dissimilar cultures are forced together, and its cast is appropriately international. Aside from American-born Q, it stars Joe Odagiri (known as the Japanese Johnny Depp) and Tou Chung-hua (a rising Taiwanese talent). And Q, a former model of European and Vietnamese descent, is perfectly suited to her role. As Tian explains, “They discovered some three-thousand-year-old artifacts at the place we shot the film, Tian Mountain, that showed people who looked more European, not Asian. And the character that Maggie plays is not from a real race; it’s probably something the author took from legends.” The story behind the film’s long journey to the big screen also has an epic quality. Tian, who helmed The Horse Thief and The Blue Kite and is a key figure of the influential “Fifth Generation” group of Chinese filmmakers, was introduced to the source material by famed Taiwanese director Hou Hsiao-Hsien in the late ’80s. But it took him nearly two decades to figure out just how to make it. “I realized there were a lot of effects in the story that we wouldn’t be able to film yet, like how to show the people transforming into wolves,” he explains in Chinese over the phone from Beijing, where he was putting the finishing touches on the film. “These were big problems we couldn’t handle, so we put it to the side for fifteen or sixteen years.” Technological limitations were not the only problem the crew needed to overcome: the rough terrain of Xinjiang province made shooting on location a major difficulty. But the craggy plateaus and verdant fields of Tian Mountain provided the memorable backdrop for The Warrior and the Wolf. “Those photos we took? There was no artificial lighting used,” explains Q of the accompanying images. “Not a one. We hiked to the top of this hill and we just kind of sat there with this light and it was just incredible.” Jonathan Shia On the set of The Warrior and the Wolf, Xinjiang province, Northwestern China, September 2008 Photography Wing Shya The Warrior and the Wolf is out now in Asia from Focus Features International 61

fashion

What do Women Want? Phoebe Philo knoWs, and her track record means the storied French house oF céline is about to get a kick oF serious cool Last June, standing in a raw West Chelsea space, wearing a nude silk blouse, a black leather jacket, and a pair of slouchy army pants, Phoebe Philo was a portrait of effortless cool. All eyes were on her as she ran through her debut collection for Céline, her ﬁrst foray into fashion since she left Chloé four years ago. And, as she described the subtle tailoring of a blush-colored tuxedo jacket, it became very clear that if anyone could revive the 64-year-old French luxury brand that has, of late, lacked any real heat, it was Philo. One after another came pieces both elegant and insouciant, yet so tough in attitude they assumed a certain imperativeness. Trim, Yves Klein–blue silk trousers, a leather and tweed biker jacket, a pair of strappy sandals with a solid metal heel: these are pieces women crave in their wardrobe, and, regardless of the price, ﬁnd a way to own. But then, creating that kind of fervor has become Philo’s forte. Karin Nelson Photography Greg Harris Styling Jay Massacret Clothing and accessories Céline Spring 2010 62

Stylist assistants Olivia Kozlowski and Caroline Ahn Special thanks Root Studios and Milk Digital Models Dioni Tabbers (Women Direct) and Nataliya Gotsii (Ford NY) Photo assistants Sloan Laurits, Devin Doyle, Alex Olson Makeup Francelle (Art + Commerce) Hair Dennis Gots (Community NYC)

first look at cÉlinE

loot

3 3

4 6

11 10

10 12

16 17

SKI-BAY

On the slOpes Or après-ski, nO snOw-bunny Outfit is cOmplete withOut this chic, cOld-weather gear Photography Adrian Gaut Styling Catherine Newell-Hanson

1 G-Star hat $95 2 BOSS Black gloves $325 3 Swatch watches $150 4 Guess boots $169 5 Chanel fur earmuffs $705 6 Skis from NYC Ski Shop 7 Ralph Lauren Collection fur boots $795 8 Tommy Hilﬁger ice skates $850 9 Opening Ceremony hat $105 10 Opening Ceremony gloves $80 11 Chanel ski goggles $410 12 Y-3 gloves $145 13 Burberry boots $895 14 Falke ski socks $25 15 Gap suede gloves $30 16 H&M ﬁngerless gloves $13 17 Fendi ski goggles with fur strap $1,000 63

VICTORIA BECKHAM

Dresses Victoria Beckham From left: Sunglasses Dior Earrings (worn throughout) David Yurman Gloves Carolina Amato Shoes Cesare Paciotti Sunglasses Balenciaga.Edition Bracelet David Yurman Ring (worn on right hand) Bottega Veneta Rings (worn on left hand) model’s own Shoes Versace Bag Salvatore Ferragamo Ring (worn on right hand), black-and-silver cuff John Hardy Bangle David Yurman Shoes Versace Rings (worn on left hand) model’s own Sunglasses Dior Cuff John Hardy Gloves Carolina Amato Shoes Cesare Paciotti Shoes Christian Louboutin Rings model’s own 64

Makeup Asami Taguchi (L’Atelier) Hair Jordan M. Models Heidi Mount (IMG) and Finbar McGuiness (Wilhelmina) Photo assistants Kaita Takemura and Will Cannar Stylist assistant Alyssa Wood Production Ashley Herson

9 to 5

When Victoria Beckham set out to design her sophomore fashion collection, her key Words Were modern, luxury, and Workaday. the result is clothing for the chicest supermoms on earth Photography Sharif Hamza Styling Catherine Newell-Hanson

“Perfecting the female form and creating a strong silhouette is my aim. these are timeless, elegant Pieces that, while beautifully made, are Practical—well, relatively! i Personally sPend most of my day chasing the kids about!” –victoria beckham

hit

fashion

PUFF LOVE

Designers Thom Browne anD giamBaTTisTa Valli Take The sTuffing ouT of skiwear By channeling a BiT of ThemselVes inTo Their new collecTions for moncler Photography Seiji Fujimori Styling Yuki James

Martha wears Clothing Moncler Gamme Rouge Custom headpieces by Nathalie Wouters 66

Stylist assistants Nathalie Wouters and Lewis Chong Models Martha Hunt (Next) and Petey Wright (Ford NY) Makeup Asami Taguchi (Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Atelier NYC) Hair Gavin Harwin (Jed Root)

Petey wears Clothing Moncler Gamme Bleu

hit

GORGEOUS MAXIMUS Hey, we’ve scrimped and saved all year long. we deserve a bit of luxury, like victoire de castellane’s jaw-dropping jewels for dior. we may not be out of tHe dark just yet, but sparkle like tHis could ligHt tHe way Photography Richard Burbridge “Idylle à Borneo” cuff from the “Idylle aux Paradis” collection in yellow gold, diamonds, boulder opal, orange sapphires, tsavorite garnets, sapphires, emeralds, spinel, and lacquer Dior Joaillerie

Photo assistants Michael Hauptman and Jeff Henrikson Production Bettina Micheli

MRCHOW.COM

“IT WAS 1986. I HAD JUST DROPPED OUT OF PARSONS. ALL I HAD WAS $150 IN MY BANK ACCOUNT. TO CELEBRATE JAMES’S BIRTHDAY, I TOOK HIM OUT TO DINNER AT AND SPENT IT ALL.”

JAMES KALIARDOS FOUNDINg EDITOR vISIONAIRE

STEPHEN gAN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF v MAgAZINE

MR CHOW NY E 57TH ST.

TRIBECA

BEvERLY HILLS

LONDON

MIAMI AT THE W

LAS vEgAS 2010

wELcomE to v fashion Natalie Portman wears Jumpsuit Armani PrivĂŠ Ring (worn on right hand) Dior Joaillerie Ring (worn on left hand) Cartier Large ring (worn on left hand) Stephen Webster

Couture roCks out Dree Hemingway Cuts loose resort Heats up anD tHe future of beauty!

a star at tHe age of 12, natalie portman CoulD Have founD Herself a viCtim of fast fame. insteaD, tHe insanely talenteD, supremely beautiful, anD intensely foCuseD young aCtress Has CarveD out a HollywooD Career of stunning DeptH. now sHe’s expanDing Her repertoire in tHe season’s war bloCkbuster brotHers, starring in Her first-ever sex sCene, anD speaking Her minD, as always

By mario tEstino styling Clare riCHarDson

Swimsuit top Bottega Veneta Shoulder pads Keko Hainswheeler customized with Crystallized™ – Swarovski Elements On eyes and face, VS Makeup by Victoria’s Secret Beauty Extra-lengthening Mascara in black and Bronzer/Highlighter Trio in glowing

atalie Portman is sick of people calling her “good, smart, studious, and conservative.” But it’s not hard to see why they do. Since playing a femme fatale at the age of 12 in Luc Besson’s action thriller The Professional, Portman has made some twenty-ﬁve ﬁlms—including Hollywood blockbusters like the Star Wars trilogy—and through it all, has remained miraculously untarnished by celebrity culture. The paparazzi follow her, bloggers gossip about her, the tabloids put her on their covers— she is a young starlet in every sense of the phrase—and yet she is highly respected as an actress. Somehow, under the all-seeing 21st-century eye, Portman has kept hold of her mystique in an almost old-Hollywood fashion. No wonder directors love her. But what’s she really like? Portman maintains it’s impossible to tell what any actor is like by watching his

or her performances. But her role in this winter’s war drama Brothers may help. In it, she plays a marine’s loyal and courageous (and radiantly beautiful) wife, who, on being informed her husband (played by Tobey Maguire) has been killed in Afghanistan, grows close to his feckless brother (played by Jake Gyllenhaal). When the husband is rescued from the Taliban and returns home, the consequences are disastrous. Although it is a remake of a 2004 Danish ﬁlm, Brothers couldn’t be more of-the-moment, with the “war on terror” focused once again on Afghanistan. That political currency is not lost on a woman who holds a degree in psychology from Harvard and took a course in “the anthropology of violence” at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. With its timely gravitas, Brothers is the latest example of Portman’s knack for choosing projects shrewdly, the importance of which she learned early. “Going to school was a great barrier to doing too much. I had one slot open

Jacket, swimsuit, necklace Chanel

every summer. That makes you really, really picky.” Though many critics panned the Star Wars trilogy, she wasn’t blown off course. “My acting was not exactly respected in those films,” she admits with a nervous laugh (one critic compared her to an ice bucket), “but those are the moments when you want to prove yourself again. When people think I suck, it helps.” Part of proving herself means that Portman has started taking more risks. She’ll play the lead in Darren Aronofsky’s next project, Black Swan, which contains a pretty serious sex scene, and a lesbian one at that. Portman, however, insists “it’s not raunchy—it’s extreme.” She used to avoid roles like this, at first turning down 1999’s Anywhere But Here because of a nude scene. (It was excised to get her back on board.) “I was figuring out my own sexual identity, likes and dislikes and all that stuff, and it’s weird to be doing stuff on film as you’re figuring it out,” she explains. “Also, being a sexual object when you’re a kid is really uncomfortable. After The Professional, I was already getting creepy letters.” She’s still somewhat inhibited by what lurks on the Internet. “It’s annoying, because online bullshit interferes with what I want to do artistically. I’m not opposed to sexuality or nudity in a film, but I’m very opposed to pornography sites and you’re pretty much giving them material if you do any of that. It’s always a big dilemma for me.” Portman believes she is taken more seriously because she escaped the Net’s pitiless scrutiny. “The formative time of my public image happened before there was Facebook, Twitter, all of these gossip sites. I had my drunken nights and dating a million people, but there wasn’t that attention then.” She’s discreet enough to enjoy nights out watching Animal Collective deejay or hanging at the Saatchi Gallery in London—activities more conducive to building a long-term, serious acting career than endless cocktails at photo op–oriented celebrity parties. (Portman says that if she catches herself enjoying one of those events, she gets nervous.) Given all that, it’s a bit strange to realize that she is a contemporary of Britney Spears. (The two were actually in the same off-Broadway show, though at different times, and Portman says they haven’t spoken for a while.) And it’s definitely hard to imagine what Portman and Spears might speak about—or at least how Spears or any starlet like her might keep up with Portman and her wide-ranging conversational interests. For example, Portman talks of being “infuriated” by protests against the Toronto Film Festival for its string of films from Tel Aviv. She explains that the protesters, including Jane Fonda (who later backtracked) and British director Ken Loach, “say [Tel Aviv] was built on the misery of Palestinians. Well, the United States was built on the misery of the Native Americans and all the slaves who were brought over so are we going to boycott all American films? I don’t think the Israeli government is beyond criticism—there’s plenty to protest against, but it seems really absurd to me that artists would try to censor art.” There is, she adds, a lot of interesting work coming out of both Israel and Palestine. Portman is also passionate about reading—Roberto Bolaño’s epic 2666 at the moment. “I’m in the hair and makeup chair for a while, so it gives me a way to feel productive instead of staring at myself in the mirror and hating my face,” she laughs. But even the most intelligent of actresses can’t totally buck the system, and Portman is already thinking about how that face might change, and how, as a woman, aging will affect her career. “You see people who were stars five years ago and already they’re waning,” she says. “As actresses approach 40, it starts becoming really, really difficult.” She hasn’t ruled out plastic surgery. “I would hope not,” she says, adding that she doesn’t know what it’s like to be that dissatisfied with your looks, but “if I have a pimple I want to get rid of it.” In the meantime, it’s with her production company, Handsomecharlie Films, and activism (she’s an ambassador for Finca International) that she is “trying to lay the groundwork for things that will fulfill [her] and make [her] feel productive” should the parts start drying up. This seems like the most Natalie Portman solution—writing and directing her own films, promoting an organization which gives people in the developing world access to credit, even getting over her antipathy to the Internet by setting up MakingOf.com, a site which takes viewers behind the scenes of famous movies. Yet for all her depth, Portman also possesses a drive that’s no less intense than that of more in-your-face celebrities. “To be successful, you need the desire to be successful,” she says, citing all those with potential who never made it, and those who made it but shouldn’t have. “Ambition can be a dirty word, but it’s pretty much more important than anything.” More important than talent? “I feel like that’s kind of obvious.” Alex Needham

Brothers is out in December 2009 from Lionsgate

Bodysuit Vilsbol de Arce Fragrance D&G 10 La Roue de la Fortune

“Ambition cAn be A dirty word, but it’s pretty much more importAnt thAn Anything.” –nAtAlie portmAn

Jacket Calvin Klein Jeans customized with Crystallized™ – Swarovski Elements by Keko Hainswheeler T-shirt Calvin Klein Underwear On eyes and lips, VS Makeup by Victoria’s Secret Beauty Eyeshadow Quad in eye contact and Lipstick in shy

Makeup Charlotte Tilbury Hair Marc Lopez Manicure Lorraine Grifﬁn using Sisleya by Sisley Photo assistants James White, Hans Neumann, Rasmus Jensen Stylist assistants Sophie Lawrence and Rebecca Connolly Makeup assistant Lotten Holmqvist Set design Gideon Ponte Digital technician Alex Franco Lighting design Chris Bisagni Seamstress Jill Burlington Set design assistant Poppy Bartlett Catering Kate Trawnley Lighting Equipment Unique Lighting Production Elisabeth Ward Retouching R&D

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not just for the old garde anymore. thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a youth energy pulsIng through the couture collectIons, and the only accessory requIred Is a lIttle bIt of attItude Photography Hedi Slimane Styling Nicola Formichetti

Silk mesh top with rhinestone embroidery and silk skirt with zip detail Armani PrivĂŠ

Stretch tulle bodysuit with red stones, coral beads, and lacquered metal studs Givenchy Haute Couture by Riccardo Tisci

Draped hooded blouson in silk chiffon and jewelry Givenchy Haute Couture by Riccardo Tisci Fragrance Guerlain Shalimar

Nude taffeta and silk lace corset and long multilayer white tulle skirt Dior Haute Couture

Gazar coat with “skeleton rufﬂe” and rhodoid embroidery Valentino Haute Couture Briefs Topshop

Silk and tulle gown with crystal embroidery Atelier Versace

Silk tulle dress with sequin embroidery and draped chiffon Chanel Haute Couture

Makeup Aaron De Mey Hair Sam McKnight Model Natalia Vodianova (DNA) Manicure Anatole Rainey (Premier) Photo assistants Rudolf Bekker and Jordan Grant Stylist assistants Anna Trevelyan and Rui Sarashina Makeup assistant Frankie Hair assistant Koji Ichikawa Location Spring Studios, London Digital technician Devin Blaire (Provision Photographic) Retouching Dtouch

Her Heritage migHt be tHe stuff of contemporary legend, but dree Hemingway is bent on writing Her own story. cHapter one finds Her as a beautiful young model witH tHe fasHion world at Her feet, sporting tHe latest from tHe new york spring 2010 collections Photography Sebastian Faena Styling Clare Richardson 88

Dress Alexander Wang Jacket Bess Necklaces David Yurman On skin, NARS Sheer Glow Foundation in deauville

Shirt and embellished jeans Ralph Lauren Collection Necklace (worn as bracelet) Dior Joaillerie On hair, Redken Rootful 06 Root Lifting Spray

Necklaces David Yurman

“ErnEst is not somEonE i’m constantly thinking about. in fact, i might likE his friEnd f. scott fitzgErald a littlE bit morE.” –drEE hEmingway

ree Hemingway hails from legendary American stock: blonde, lithe, lovely, the great granddaughter of literary icon Ernest, and the eldest daughter of quintessential American beauty Mariel. But the formally trained ballet dancer–turned model doesn’t rely on her famous name for her success. Instead she’s determined to write her own tale in the fashion world. Her ascent in the industry was marked earlier this year when Riccardo Tisci booked her for a Givenchy runway exclusive in Paris. In quick succession, she shot a Gucci campaign with Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, ran a tear in the editorial world, and logged in a full season of runway shows—and she was a sensation. Now the 22-year-old, who grew up between mom’s California bungalow and great grandpa’s Idaho hunting grounds, is capturing the imagination of a new generation of American dreamers. Call them, if you will, the Dreemers. Derek Blasberg DEREK BLASBERG Hi Dree, what are you doing right now? DREE HEMINGWAY I’m in Paris having dinner with some friends. It’s fashion week here, and I just went on about a million castings. DB Oh, yes, the castings. How are you liking this wonderful industry? DH I love walking in shows, but I don’t particularly enjoy the castings. I’m not really a show girl—I’m not 10 feet tall, and I’m American. But I think I’m a good walker. I love modeling. Is that bad to say? Is that vain? DB I don’t think so. DH It’s not just being in front of the camera that I like. It’s the whole creative process. I’ve gotten the opportunity to work with some amazing people, and I feel like I know what I’m doing now. DB Would you go so far as to say you’re doing well? Would you acknowledge your own hype? DH That’s a tough question. I’m aware that I’m doing well, yes, but I don’t want to become a diva about it. I’ve seen girls become monsters like that—not that I’ll tell you who they are. The minute you think you’re doing well in this game is when it all comes crashing down. You’re always on the edge. DB Before you were a model, you were a ballerina, right? DH I started dancing when I was 5, and then when I was 13 I got really serious about ballet and thought that’s what I wanted to spend my life doing. DB What changed? DH The girls. They got crazy! I didn’t want to wake up and live and breathe and die ballet. I wanted more than that. I guess, in a way, the passion died a little bit. DB Do you still dance? DH I take classes once in a while, and I can still get on pointe. Maybe that’s why I like modeling, ’cause I get to move and keep dancing to a certain extent. If I wasn’t a dancer I wouldn’t know my body as well, so it has come in handy. I’ve been ﬂexible my whole life, though. My mother says I used to breast-feed in a split. DB Let’s talk about the family. Where were you born? DH Sun Valley, Idaho. DB I’m from the Midwest, and I love my Midwest roots. DH I love it there too. It’s a good change from the New York craziness. My mother grew up there and lives there part-time, so that’s where I spent my childhood. I went to Hemingway Elementary, and I was a huge nerd. DB How could a Hemingway be a nerd in the Hemingway school? DH I was never in a clique and I was scrawny and awkward. And I really didn’t get the whole Hemingway thing, even though there was a huge mural of Ernest right in front of the school. DB Is that what you call him, Ernest? DH Yes. DB So you didn’t know who he was? DH No, not really. When I was growing up I was very naïve, and then once I found out the extent of his legacy I was too intimidated to read his books. I probably shouldn’t say this, but I still haven’t read them all.

DB You’re kidding! DH They’re all kind of depressing. DB But they’re so good! It’s Hemingway, for heaven’s sake! DH I can remember when I was about 12, I did an interview with my mother for this documentary on Ernest. My mother was in the background and the interviewer asked me what I thought about his books, and I had just read The Old Man and the Sea, so I was like, No, I don’t like him. But I really love those Harry Potter books! I turned and looked at my mother’s face and she was just mortified. DB And, of course, you never knew Ernest Hemingway. DH I didn’t. My mother didn’t either. DB I doubt it went over well at Hemingway Elementary that you cared more about Harry Potter than, say, For Whom the Bell Tolls. DH Yeah, that probably didn’t help things. Like most young girls, I had my own opinion—and I was gung ho about it. All my teachers wanted me to like and idolize him, and it probably just made me rebel even more. DB I have a favorite story about you: we were at dinner and someone told you they were a writer, and you responded, “Oh really? My mom is a writer! ” I almost fell out of my chair. I’m sure your mom is a wonderful lady, but I think you forgot the real writer in your family. DH Yeah that did happen. Ha! But Ernest is not someone I’m constantly thinking about. In fact, I might like his friend F. Scott Fitzgerald a little bit more. Right now I’m more in a Gatsby phase. I will say, though, that Hemingway had a great look: that scruffy bear look. I’m into that. A little scruff goes a long way. DB When did you move to L.A.? Was that easier, where it’s not completely atypical to have a famous parent or grandparent? DH Yeah, it didn’t matter much there—although I was just as much of an outcast. I remember the first day of middle school in L.A.: it was that time when everyone was just starting to wear Juicy Couture jumpsuits, and I was never allowed to wear one of those. So on the first day I showed up wearing water socks, which my mother had convinced me were cool, and a Gap pencil skirt. I had hairy legs because I didn’t know girls were shaving their legs yet. The hair on my head was messy, almost dreadlocks, ’cause I didn’t let anyone near it. I was skinny and scrawny— basically, I was not like the other L.A. girls I was going to school with. DB And let me guess: you still feel like that scrawny girl? DH Nah, I’ve embraced my figure. It’s what I am. And you know what, I like it now. DB I love that you said that. I feel like sometimes really skinny girls feel bad saying they like being really skinny. DH It’s who I am, and I haven’t been able to change it. I eat like a pig and it doesn’t go anywhere—yet. My grandmother says when I hit 30 it’s all going downhill and that I’m going to get a big ole Italian-lady body. My grandmother has huge boobs, but she was flat like me when she was my age. DB So you’ll start wearing a bra then. DH Exactly, I’ll need a push-up bra! And you know what? I’ll learn to embrace that figure too. DB Speaking of your future, what are your plans? Writer like Ernest, actress like mom? DH I thought about taking acting classes and becoming an actress for a while, but right now I’m in love with this job. And I have to be honest here: I think sometimes, in certain situations, I’m not taken seriously because of my last name. DB Really? DH It can be a double-edged sword. It gets me in the door, but then I really, really have to prove myself. DB I can see that. Sort of. DH My last name has been in so many arenas: Ernest was a writer, a prolific writer. Margaux was a big model, and my mom is an actress. DB An Academy Award–nominated actress, I might add. DH So I think some people have this idea of me making it because I’m a Hemingway, but I don’t think I’m here because of that. I think I’m here because I work hard and I want to be here.

Dress Alexander Wang

Dress Calvin Klein Collection Necklace (worn as bracelet) Dior Joaillerie On face, NARS The Multiple in orgasm

Makeup Francelle for NARS Cosmetics Hair Diego Da Silva Model Dree Hemingway (Elite) Lighting technician David Diesing Photo assistant Toby Bannister Stylist assistants Lauren Bensky, Caroline Ahn, Catlin Myers Digital technician Brian Cleaver Production assistants Danielle Barkoski and Chelsea Cox Photo equipment Nucleus Productions Motor home On Time Elite Production Sarah Frick Smith Location National Park Service, Gateway National Recreation Area Special thanks to Jennifer Rosenblum

Miranda wears Swimsuit Miu Miu Brief (worn underneath) Dolce & Gabbana Belt Dior

PIN ME UP PIN ME DOWN SeX, meet deconStruction. deconStruction, meet SeX. the cruiSe collectionS get Smart with a poStmodern take on pinup dreSSing, featuring Victoria’S Secret weaponS miranda kerr and ana Beatriz BarroS Photography Willy Vanderperre Styling Olivier Rizzo

Ana Beatriz wears Swimsuit Miu Miu Bra and briefs Dolce & Gabbana Printed bikini bottoms Prada Belt Dior Tights (worn throughout) Wolford Veil (worn throughout) stylist’s own On lips, Chanel Rouge Allure Luminous Satin Lip Colour in lover 97

Miranda wears Backless top and belt CĂŠline

Miranda wears Dress Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci Bra and brief Dolce & Gabbana Printed swimsuit (worn underneath), boots, socks Miu Miu Belt Dior

Ana Beatriz wears Jacket, blouse, belt Dior Printed dress (worn underneath) Diane von Furstenberg Brief Dolce & Gabbana Swimsuit with white trim Miu Miu On hair, Bumble and bumble Styling Lotion

Miranda wears Sweater Proenza Schouler Bra and brief Dolce & Gabbana Belt Dior Boots and socks Miu Miu

Ana Beatriz wears Black bustier dress with printed skirt Marc Jacobs Bra (worn on top) and brief (worn underneath) Dolce & Gabbana Printed bikini bottoms Prada Belt Dior Swimsuit with white trim Miu Miu

Miranda wears Striped shorts Louis Vuitton Tulle skirt (worn as tutu) Calvin Klein Collection Bra and brief Dolce & Gabbana Tie-neck swimsuit Miu Miu

Miranda wears Dress (worn inside out as bustier) Yves Saint Laurent Brief Dolce & Gabbana Belt Dior

Ana Beatriz wears Dress Diane von Furstenberg Bra and brief Dolce & Gabbana Swimsuit with white trim Miu Miu Belt Dior On skin, Guerlain MĂŠtĂŠorites Poudre de Perles On hair, Bumble and bumble Prep

Makeup Sally Branka Hair Paul Hanlon Models Miranda Kerr (IMG) and Ana Beatriz Barros (Elite) Photo assistants Antoine Breant, Nyra Lang, Ben Dos Remedios Stylist assistants Shala Rothenberg and Eugenie Toroella Makeup assistant Lucy Burt Hair assistants Tina Outen and Nathan Jasztal Special thanks Stas Komarovski (Dtouch), Elisa Allenbach, Paula Dantas da Rocha (Janvier Paris)

More is More! WoMen Want to look strong, poWerful, and sexy again. –Aaron De Mey Creative director Lancôme

Makeup Aaron De Mey Hair Didier Malige for Frédéric Fekkai Photography Mario Sorrenti On eyes, Lancôme Color Design Liberty Palette and Ink Artliner in indigo charm On lips, Lancôme Color Design Lipstick in Paris rouge 106

Model Daria Werbowy (IMG) Manicure Yuna Park (Streeters) Photo assistants Lars Beaulieu, Johnny Vicari, Javier Villegas Makeup assistant Frankie Boyd Set design Philipp Haemmerle Set design assistants Shaun Kato-Samuel and Matt Jones Digital technician Heather Sommerﬁeld On-site production Steve Sutton Printing Box

In part two of an ongoIng serIes, we ask the world’s leadIng creatIve dIrectors, makeup artIsts, and haIrstylIsts to defIne what’s beautIful for the new decade. 2010 sounds lIke the future, and thIs Is what It wIll look lIke

â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Christophe de Lataillade Creative director Thierry Mugler Parfums Makeup Kabuki Hair Shay Ashual Photography Richard Burbridge Styling Brian Molloy Bustier Thierry Mugler F/W 1995 Earrings Cartier Fragrance Thierry Mugler Alien

Digital technician Burbridge Studio Digital Printing Box Model Anne Vyalitsnya (Women) Photo assistants Michael Hauptman and Truls Qvale

the future of beauty lies in personality, Which is far More interesting than just being beautiful. knoWing yourself and Making yourself knoWn as you Want to beâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;even being soMeone else if you Want.

The fuTure of beauTy is The pursuiT of a cyber-esque perfecTion. i wanTed To Transpose This virTual world onTo a real face.

Model Karolin Wolter (Supreme) Manicure Mike

–Val Garland Artistic adviser YSL Makeup Makeup Val Garland Hair Peter Gray Photography Miguel Reveriego On eyes, YSL Makeup Mascara Singulier in deep black and Easy Liner in easy black Top left: on eyes and lips, YSL Makeup Ombres 5 Lumières in bronze gold and Rouge Pur Lipstick in purple velvet Top right: on eyes and lips, YSL Makeup Ombres 5 Lumières in midnight and Rouge Pur Lipstick in purple velvet Bottom: on eyes and lips, YSL Makeup Ombres 5 Lumières in tawny and Rouge Volupté Lipstick in exquisite plum

â&#x20AC;&#x201C;James Gager SVP and creative director M.A.C Cosmetics Worldwide Makeup Ellis Faas Photography Miles Aldridge On eyes, M.A.C Brow Gel and Zoomlash in zoomblack

Model Ali Michael (DNA)

beauty in 2010 Will focus less on the external and More on the internal. our health, Mind, energy, and, Most iMportant, spirit Will be the neW foundations of true beauty.

â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Linda Cantello International makeup artist Giorgio Armani Beauty Makeup Linda Cantello Hair Esther Langham Photography Daniel Jackson Styling Marie Chaix On eyes and lips, Giorgio Armani Cosmetics Eyes to Kill Palette 1, Maestro Eye Shadow 3, and Rouge dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Armani 503

Production Gina Liberto (MAP) Retouching Gloss Studio New York Makeup assistant Chiho Omae Photography assistants Karen Goss, Nadya Wasylko, Henry Lopez Stylist assistant Tom Van Dorpe Model Katrin Thormann (Women) Manicure Sheril Bailey (Jed Root)

beauty 2010 is about spontaneity, freedom of expression, and confidence.

Model Miyuki Koizumi

Modernity is taking the classic and Making it surreal. â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Kamo Makeup and hair Kamo Photography Kazunari Tajima On lips, Shiseido Perfect Rouge Lipstick in dragon and Lip gloss in ruby luster

Black is the new Black. –James Kaliardos Creative director L’Oréal Paris International Makeup James Kaliardos Hair Recine Photography Mario Sorrenti Styling Jane How On skin, L’Oréal Paris Studio Secrets High Deﬁnition Smoothing Foundation

Models Heidi Mount and Sasha Pivovarova (IMG) Manicure Yuna Park (Streeters) Photo assistants Lars Beaulieu and Johnny Vicari Stylist assistant Kerry Dorney Makeup assistant Yoshi Kubota Hair assistant Shin Arima Production Katie Fash Printing Box

Voguing Face of the Future, 2000. Artwork Stephen Tashjian

Model Coco Rocha (Elite) Manicure Megumi for Louis Licari Salon Special thanks Bumble and bumble

the future of beauty is about letting your freak flag fly. anything goes When the Whistle bloWs! â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Jimmy Paul Editorial stylist Bumble and bumble Hair Jimmy Paul Makeup Kaoru Photography Alasdair McLellan Styling Marie Chaix Top Les Chiffoniers Earrings GirlPrOPS On hair, Bumble and bumble Thickening Spray and Spray de Mode On lips, M.A.C Lipstick in dubonnet and Pro Longwear Gloss Coat in clear

–Gucci Westman Creative director Revlon Makeup Gucci Westman Hair Julien d’Ys Photography Craig McDean Necklace Tom Binns Design On eyes and lips, Revlon Doubletwist Mascara in blackest black, Matte Lipstick in strawberry suede, and Super Lustrous Lipgloss in coral reef

Manicure Bernadette Thompson (Management Artists) Model Natalia Vodianova (DNA)

Optimism. the mOre, the better.

The pasT inspires The fuTure. –Aerin Lauder Senior vice-president and creative director Estée Lauder

What’S ON OUR WISh LISt? LaVISh hEELS, CONCEPt BaGS—IN ShORt, aCCESSORIES that PaCK a PUNCh. IN aN ExCLUSIVE COLLaBORatION, PhOtOGRaPhER GUIdO MOCafICO aNd aRtISt fRaNçOIS BERthOUd zOOM IN ON thE MOSt WaNtEd GIftS Of thE hOLIdaY SEaSON Photography Guido Mocaﬁco Illustration François Berthoud

Pink leather heel with fringe and stud detail Prada 120

Red velvet "Vlada" bag with keyhole D&G

Painted python leather bag with chain handle Marc Jacobs

Gray jacquard jersey bootie Balenciaga by Nicolas GhesquiĂ¨re

Satin bag with embroidered monogram Louis Vuitton

Postproduction Marie Zacchi

PVC “Blister” bag Chanel

Best party

The afTer parTy for Chanel’s resorT 2010 ColleCTion in VeniCe…

…wiTh ’70s CoVer band

Best snow day

John Galliano’s Fall show featured a laser-lit snowfall that was nothing short of magical.

Best songs

Most awe-inspiring fashion MoMent

“My Girls” by Animal Collective. A no-brainer here, in fact one of the great songs of the decade. Who would’ve thought that Panda Bear’s misgivings about house hunting could lead to such a glorious song? When the hook kicks in at the 3-minute mark, it’s pure bliss, and an instant 21st-century classic. John Norris

Junya Watanabe’s high-drama modular puffer jackets for Fall, which transformed mid-catwalk to become coats, dresses, or skirts.

Best art show

Elad Lassry’s show of hyperreal photography and video at David Kordansky in L.A. –Nominated by Christine Messineo of Renwick Gallery

“So Fine” by Telepathe. It reminds me of the ultracomforting dark corners of ’80s movies and the excited feeling of going out as a youth. Julian Casablancas Casablancas’s debut solo album Phrazes for the Young is out now from Cult Records/RCA

Most charMingly pacifist secession

In June, Greenland took a major step in declaring independence from Denmark, who almost didn’t care.

Most welcoMe coMeBack

jil sander aT uniqlo

126

“Trash” by the New York Dolls. It’s not a new song, but their new album ’Cause I Sez So contains a good reggae version of it. Paul Sevigny

Most spectacular Bride

The Chinese woman who walked down the aisle in August with a 1.2-mile long wedding train.

The year from hell Turned ouT To be well...The year from hell. buT amid all The darkness, some Things sTill managed To shine in 2009. from TransformaTiVe fashion and major makeoVers To quieT peaCe TreaTies and The reTurn of jil sander, These sTories made life worTh liVing

Elad Lassry, Lipstick (2009) courtesy David Kordansky Gallery, L.A.; Mariah Carey (before) courtesy Getty Images; Mariah Carey (after) courtesy Lionsgate; Grace Jones photo Matthu Placek; Blood of Two photo Cyril Duval; Wooly rat photo courtesy Kristofer Helgen; Chinese bride courtesy Reuters; QT photo courtesy The Cobrasnake; Eclipse photo courtesy Getty Images; Greenland photo courtesy Getty Images

Best oMen

Most staggering Makeover

The total solar eclipse on July 22nd. The longest of the century, its path stretched from India through China and over the International Date Line, ending in the South Paciﬁc.

mariaH careY in Precious

Best reason to BeCoMe a photographer Nick Knight’s new monograph, a mid-career retrospective of his groundbreaking work, out now from Collins Design

Best ConCert

Grace Jones at Hammerstein Ballroom, nYc, JulY 2009

Most wish-you-were-there art MoMent Mariah got real for her role as a social worker, proving the girl with the perfect voice also has serious acting chops.

Blood of Two, Matthew Barney and Elizabeth Peyton’s processional installation at Dakis Joannou’s Deste Foundation on Hydra in June, with an art-ﬁlled glass sarcophagus, a shark corpse, and a celebratory feast ﬁt for kings.

Most surreal fashion news

lindsaY loHan at unGaro

Best vestige of ’00s exCess

QT (née Boom Boom Room) in the penthouse of the new Standard Hotel in NYC

Most shoCking news froM the natural world

A BBC ﬁlm crew discovered a new species of giant woolly rat, as well as a frog with fangs, in an extinct volcano in Papua New Guinea in September.

there are plenty of reasons to visit Copenhagen. if politics is your thing, then you may know that this december, the city will host the U.n. Climate Change Conference. if things go well, all the world’s governments will agree to cut carbon emissions and help stop global warming. so ﬁngers crossed. if that’s too serious for you, then head to Copenhagen to meet any of the cuties below. Jacob Brown

V62 winTer 2009/10

Photography Adrian Sølberg To See more V-mAilerS, or To Become one, ViSiT VmAgAzine. com. or e-mAil A recenT PhoTo, your nAme, Age, occuPATion, And ciTy of reSidence To VmAgAzine@ViSionAireworld.com

my name is sam i’m a 20 year old actor from London e-mail me! samiam2@hotmail.co.uk

my name is adrian i’m a 19 year old student from frederiksberg e-mail me! adrian_cph@hotmail.com

my name is nikita i’m an 18 year old dj from Copenhagen e-mail me! nikita.fog@hotmail.com

my name is suad i’m a 20 year old entrepreneur from Copenhagen e-mail me! hannibal_hbg@ hotmail.com

my name is josephine i’m a 19 year old model from Copenhagen e-mail me! josecphgirl@yahoo.com

my name is philip i’m a 19 year old model from Copenhagen e-mail me! hannibal_hbg@hotmail.com

my name is sila i’m a 28 year old hairstylist from frederiksberg e-mail me! camillasila@hotmail.com

my name is Lille havfrue i’m a 172 year old princess from Under the sea e-mail me! mermaidgirl@gmail.com

my name is daisy i’m a 17 year old student from London e-mail me! thedarcidigression@live.co.uk

my name is Christian i’m a 23 year old writer from jutland e-mail me! christian wjespersen@hotmail.com

my name is Charlotte i’m a 22 year old Blogger from Copenhagen e-mail me! charlotteanderberg@blog spot.com

my name is nicolai i’m a 22 year old economist from Copenhagen e-mail me! neterahbek@hotmail.com

my name is jing i’m a 22 year old student from London e-mail me! yujingín@gmx.de

my name is shami i’m a 22 year old daydreamer from Frederiksberg e-mail me! shami2830@hotmail.com

my name is megan i’m an 18 year old model from London e-mail me! megantrain@gmail.com

my name is martin i’m a 23 year old producer from Copenhagen e-mail me! martin_ﬁilsoe@hotmail.com

my name is eva i’m a 21 year old model from Copenhagen e-mail me! evahelene@hotmail.com

my name is kaave i’m a 20 year old promoter from Copenhagen e-mail me! kaave1989@sol.dk

my name is amanda i’m a 17 year old model from Charlottenlund e-mail me! amanda_noergaard@hotmail. com

my name is albert i’m a 23 year old student from noerrebro e-mail me! albertkr@m1.stud.ku.dk

V is a registered trademark of V magazine LLC. Copyright © 2009 V magazine LLC. aLL rights reserVed. printed in U.s.a. V (Bipad 96492) is pUBLished BimonthLy By V magazine LLC.. prinCipaL offiCe: 11 merCer street, new york, ny 10013. postmaster: send address Changes to speedimpex 35-02 48th aVenUe, Long isLand City, ny 11101. for sUBsCriptions in the U.s. and Canada, address Changes, and adjUstments, pLease ContaCt speedimpex 35-02 48th aVenUe, Long isLand City, ny 11101, teL. 800.969.1258, Vmagazine.Com, e-maiL: sUBsCriptions@speedimpex.Com. for sUBsCriptions in the rest of the worLd, ContaCt the magazine Café, Comag U.k., taVistoCk road, west drayton, middLesex, UB7 7Qe, www.themagazineCafe.Co.Uk for BaCk issUes ContaCt V magazine, 11 merCer street, new york, ny 10013 teL. 212.274.8959. for press inQUiries ContaCt starworks teL. 646.645.6766

128

V-BUY

Agent Provocateur www.agentprovocateur.com Alexander wang www.alexanderwang.com Armani Privé www.giorgioarmani.com Atelier Versace www.versace.com Balenciaga by nicolas ghesquière www.balenciaga.com Bess www.bess-nyc.com BoSS Black www.hugoboss.com Bottega Veneta www.bottegaveneta.com Boucheron www.boucheron.com Bulgari www.bulgari.com Bumble and bumble www.bumbleandbumble.com Burberry Prorsum www.burberry.com calvin Klein www.calvinklein.com carolina Amato www.carolinaamato.com cartier www.cartier.com céline available at Barney’s new york 212.826.8900 cesare Paciotti www.cesare-paciotti.com chanel www.chanel.com 800.550.0005 chanel haute couture www.chanel.com +33.1.42.86.2800 chloë Sevigny for opening ceremony www.openingceremony.us christian louboutin www.christianlouboutin.com crystallized™ – Swarovski elements www.crystallized.com d&g www.dolcegabbana.com d&g fragrance www.dandgfragrances.com david yurman www.davidyurman.com de Beers www.debeers.com diane von furstenberg www.dvf.com diesel www.diesel.com dior www.dior.com 800.929.dior dior Joaillerie www.diorjoaillerie.com dolce & gabbana www.dolcegabbana.com dolce & gabbana makeup www.dolcegabbanamakeup.com dsquared www.dsquared2.com estée lauder www.esteelauder.com falke www.falke.com fendi www.fendi.com gap www.gap.com giorgio Armani cosmetics www.giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com girlProPS www.girlprops.com givenchy by riccardo Tisci www.givenchy.com g-Star www.g-star.com guerlain www.guerlain.com guess www.guess.com h&m www.hm.com Jasmin Shokrian www.jasminshokrian.com Jean-Paul gaultier www,jeanpaulgaultier.com John hardy www.johnhardy.com lancôme www.lancome-usa.com les chiffoniers www.leschiffoniers.com l’oréal Paris www.lorealparisusa.com lorenz Bäumer www.lorenzbaumer.com louis Vuitton www.vuitton.com 866.VUitton m.A.c www.maccosmetics.com marc Jacobs www.marcjacobs.com miu miu www.miumiu.com moncler www.moncler.it nArS cosmetics www.narscosmetics.com nyc Ski Shop 212.228.4400 1971 reiss www.reiss.co.uk opening ceremony www.openingceremony.us oribe haircare www.oribe.com Prada www.prada.com Proenza Schouler www.proenzaschouler.com rado www.rado.com raf Simons www.rafsimons.com ralph lauren collection www.ralphlauren.com redken www.redken.com revlon www.revlon.com rimmel london www.rimmellondon.com Salvatore ferragamo www.salvatoreferragamo.it Shiseido www.shiseido.com Stella mccartney www.stellamccartney.com Stephen webster www.stephenwebster.com Swatch www.swatch.com Thierry mugler www.thierrymugler.com Tom Binns design www.tombinnsdesign.com Tommy hilﬁger 681 fifth avenue, new york, 212.223.1824 uniqlo www.uniqlo.com Valentino haute couture www.valentino.com Van cleef & Arpels www.vancleef-arpels.com Versace www.versace.com Victoria Beckham www.victoriabeckham.com Vilsbol de Arce www.vilsboldearce.com VS makeup by Victoria’s Secret Beauty www.victoriasecret.com/beauty woolrich woolen mills www.wolrichwoolenmillsproduction.com y-3 www.y-3.com ySl makeup www.yslbeautyus.com yves Saint laurent www.ysl.com

1947

The sound barrier is broken. ROLEX. FOR LIFEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DEFINING MOMENTS.

OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST IN 18 CT WHITE GOLD