Lady Gaga & Troy Carter Yoko Ono & Sean Lennon Solange Knowles & Devonté Hynes Delphine & Antoine Arnault by Karl Lagerfeld The Girls of Girls L.A.’s Musical Newcomers A Double Dose of Designers & The Best of Spring Fashion
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spring 2013
dynamic duos
Two Hot to Handle! Rihanna & Kate Get Cheeky
US $8.50 CAN $9.75 DISPLAY UNTIL MAY 8, 2013
Kate Moss wears Giorgio Armani vest and Cartier bracelet Photographed by Mario Testino Styled by Melanie Ward
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two have and two hold..
welcome to the dynamic duos issue spring 2013 34
Model brides Kati Nescher aNd ashleigh good close the chaNel haute couture show with Karl lagerfeld (aNd his godsoN hudsoN) at the graNd Palais oN JaNuary 22, 2013
photography simon procter
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V4, V6, V7, V58, and V67 photographed by Mario testino V11 photographed by Karl lagerfeld V36 photographed by bruce Weber V74 photographed by terry richardson
V and You Makes Two! While we love gadgets as much as the next guy, new media has made it essentially impossible to not be online, all the time. And while it’s great that social networking is becoming increasingly more intuitive, and everyone is sharing and liking things, and yes, your elderly uncle is now on Facebook, does it really mean that you’re that much closer to people? For our March issue, which heralds the arrival of Spring fashion, we wanted to address what it means to be part of a pair. Best friends, business partners, lovers, family members—they’re all here. We were fortunate enough to capture some incredible moments with some incredible people. Yoko Ono and Sean Lennon, Antoine and Delphine Arnault, Mayor Michael Bloomberg and Diane von Furstenberg, Vladimir and Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Solange Knowles and Devonté Hynes, Jenna Lyons and her girlfriend, Courtney Crangi, and many more that we’ll let you discover for yourself. There may be a lack of human connection in this age of new media, but these incredible people are perfect examples of the power of two. Speaking of which, let’s not forget about the dynamos that grace our cover. And what a cover it is! Kate Moss and Rihanna—both of them cool girls with a badass vibe—photographed by the incomparable Mario Testino. The resulting images are so hot that this will be the second time they scorch our beloved Internet. (Turn to Derek Blasberg’s cover story, on page 150, to get the scoop from the babes themselves.) Elsewhere in the issue, Inez and Vinoodh throw open the doors to their incredible Lower East Side loft, welcoming 11 top models in the best collections of the season. (You don’t want to miss these clothes, deftly styled by Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, or the interiors.) Naomi Campbell basks in the cool glow of television, alongside Lindsey Wixson, in a provocative shoot by Sebastian Faena. Testino takes two, with a fashion story inspired by the East. And Saint Laurent creative director Hedi Slimane snaps the new faces of L.A.’s ever-expanding music scene. So grab a partner and take a look. We hope you both enjoy it. And if for whatever reason you can’t find a friend, reach out to us—on e-mail, IM, Tumblr, Twitter, Instagram, or Facebook! ms v 78
Photography Junichi Ito Fashion Emily Barnes
In This Issue 92 PArtY time Visionaire gets free; Derek Blasberg signs, seals, and delivers a tea party; fêting Italo Zucchelli’s menswear collection in Milan; Versace's postcouture party; ASMALLWORLD invades Switzerland; Giorgio Armani’s swanky Parisian soirée 94 DYnAmiC DUo HALL oF FAme From Posh and Becks to Edina and Patsy, these famous, fabulous pairs have changed history side by side 100 Heroes The double fantasy of Pierre et Gilles carries on; Albert Maysles looks back on his big pictures with his brother, David 104 Work in ProGress Sabisha Friedberg levitates a planet of sound; Will Ryman drags capitalism into a cabin in the woods 108 DUAL DesiGn When great minds think alike and work toward one artistic goal, the results are twice as magical 110 eXtrA Emma Watson is lovely in Lancôme; Viktor & Rolf put a new face forward; Visionaire takes Korea; and all the beauty, books, and exhibitions worth checking out
114 eCHoes oF sPrinG It’s officially the year of the comeback: prepare yourself for records and reissues from the Breeders to Bowie to My Bloody Valentine 117 V GirLs Model turned Bond girl turned bankable Hollywood actress— behold the Wonder of Olga Kurlyenko; 2013’s big, bold new voice comes courtesy of British breakout Jessie Ware; Romanian supermodel Catrinel Marlon continues to captivate through the lens of David Lipman 122 BriGHt sPot The season’s showstopping accessories sure pack a punch: wear if you dare 128 WHAt's trenDinG noW From gladiator boots to super sunnies to the season’s must-have weave, discover what’s populating the fashion ether 134 toe tHe Point Make a sharp statement with these pointed flats 136 CoLor storY Celebrate the saturated colors of Spring by upping the ante with acidic new makeup hues 138 DesiGner DUos We all beneft from their collective creative genius. Say hello to some of the industry's most iconic and artistic pairs
On him: pants and shOes Dior Homme On her: dress Y-3 shOes tHeYskens' tHeorY 84
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In This Issue 144 only girlS in tHe World By mario teStino What happens when the ultimate bad bitches of the world unite? They disrobe and the Internet self-destructs in quick succession. Get the full story on Kate Moss and Rihanna 156 it takeS tWo If inspiration could be quantifed, the output of Yoko Ono and Sean Lennon, Delphine and Antoine Arnault, Inez and Vinoodh, Troy Carter and Lady Gaga, and Mayor Michael Bloomberg and Diane von Furstenberg would add up to infnity 166 HauS oF Style By ineZ & VinoodH The season’s strongest looks make a house call to Inez & Vinoodh, proving home is where today’s high fashion is 190 aSia maJor By mario teStino Sharp kimono cuts came down many a runway this season, so Mario set out to put the minimalism into motion 204 Prime time By SeBaStian Faena Television for women never looked so luxurious as it does when these two supermodels lounge by the LCD screens 212 douBle ViSion By SHariF HamZa Your eyes aren’t deceiving you, it’s time to double up on the chicest pieces you’ll be seeing more of this season 228 CaliFornia dreamin’ By Hedi Slimane Where starlets once focked is now the art world’s prime spot, which is why today’s Hollywood hybrids are weirder and more wondrous than ever 234 tWo oF a kind By PHiliPPe VogelenZang Love is what makes the world go round. Get familiar with some pretty fabulous friends, siblings, and partners
248 Bon V VantS: PerFeCt PairS Derek Blasberg digs into his personal photo archive to highlight his favorite stylish twosomes
On him: Pants Jil Sander shOes CeSare PaCiotti sOcks Hugo BoSS On her: Jacket and shirt tHeySkenS’ tHeory shOes Fendi
PHotograPHy JuniCHi ito FaSHion emily BarneS 88
Body makeup Jenai Chin using Make Up For Ever (Artists by NEXT) Talent Danielle Pashko, Deborah Fenker, Richard Glasser (Parts Models) Manicure Gina Edwards (Kate Ryan Inc) Photo assistant Narita Nobuyuki Stylist assistant Chloe Hartstein Body makeup assistant Colleen Martin
244 a moment oF reFleCtion By daniel lindH Do you see what we see? Test your fashion vision with our Rorschach-inspired editorial flled with luxurious accessories
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V82 Mario Testino Inez & Vinoodh Hedi Slimane Karl Lagerfeld Sebastian Faena Terry Richardson Sarajane Hoare Sharif Hamza Julia Von Boehm Sabina Schreder Pierre et Gilles Jason Schmidt Philippe Vogelenzang Brandon Maxwell Max Von Gumppenberg Patrick Bienert Daniel Lindh Simon Procter Maurizio Bavutti David Hughes Dan Forbes Michele Raferty David Lipman Lincoln Pilcher Polina Aronova Junichi Ito Emily Barnes Brendan James Christopher Tennant Stephen Galloway Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni Sarah Fones Ashley Simpson Zac Bayly Kristin Tice Studeman Nicole Catanese Kate Branch
Special thankS Art Partner Giovanni Testino Amber Olson Candice Marks Charlotte Draycott Lindsey Steinberg Jef Stalnaker Alexis Costa Allison Hunter Jemima Hobson Michelle Lu Ayesha Arafn The Collective Shift Jae Choi Brenda Brown Christine Lavigne Lisa Weatherby Marc Kroop Brian Anderson Art + Commerce Jimmy Mofat Phillipe Brutus Lindsay Thompson Amanda Fiala Tahra Collins Ian Bauman Dyonne Venable Bryan Bantry Palma Driscoll Kim Pollock Yann Rzepka Cadence NY Neil Cooper Ashley Herson Management+Artists Pia Byron Francesco Savi Daniel Weiner Angelo Bankaddour Manja Otten CLM Cale Harrison Nick Bryning Natalie Hazzout Cassandra Maxwell Tim Howard Management Vanessa Setton Michelle Service-Fraccari Janine Mills Nex9 Tina Preschitz Chelsea Leah CS Global Sebastian Warschow Julia Lange Jennifer Kunz Streeters Beverley Streeter Sofe Geradin Deanna Archer Mandy Smulders Tal Ben-Oni Total Justinian Kfoury Matthew Mitchell Helena Martel Artist Commissions Felix Frith Shea Spencer Artlist Michael Quinn Jonathan Ferrari Audrey Petit-Grard David Lipman The Wall Group Bianca Balconis Brianne Almeida Jed Root Inc. The Magnet Agency D+V Management L’Atelier NYC Premier 10-4 Inc. Gawain Rainey Alice Ferrante R&D Leigh Sikorski Artists by Next Atelier Management Audrey Ulgen M.A.P Ltd. Exposure NY Piergiorgio Del Moro Natalie Joos Webber Represents my-Management Frank Reps IMG Jennifer Ramey Anne Nelson Kyle Hagler Maja Chiesi Kelsey Overby LaTrice Davis DNA David Bonnouvrier Lorenzo Re Helena Suric Marilyn NY George Speros Evelien Joos NY Models Duncan Ord Marcos Olazabal FORD NY Women Matt Holloway NEXT Wilhelmina Society Management Kristin Kochanski Box Smooch NYC Tablet DTouch Spring Post Spring Studios, London Bar Bar Fast Ashleys Brooklyn Michael Masse Root [TREC+EQ+Capture+Studios] Kip McQueen Aldana Oppizzi 16Beaver Studio Siren Studios Splashlight SOHO Shell Royster MetroDaylight Neo Studios Highline Stages Milk Studios, Los Angeles Studio 7L Trunk Archive Getty Images Corbis Everett Collection Photofest Hotel Pennsylvania Samuel Nuñez Stephanie Pelian Antoinette Petitcollot Christine Tavelli Souri Kim Grace Cha Marc LaVorgna Brina Milikowsky Jordan Stein
cOVeR phOtOgRaphy maRiO teStinO faShiOn melanie waRd Kate moss wears vest giORgiO aRmani lingerie alissa vintage lingerie jewelry caRtieR rihanna wears Clothing VeRSace jewelry her own Makeup Charlotte Tilbury (Art Partner) Hair Marc Lopez (ArtList Paris) Model Kate Moss (IMG) Manicure for Kate Moss Lorraine Grifn Manicure for Rihanna Jenny Longworth (CLM Hair and Makeup) Set Design Jack Flanagan (The Magnet Agency) Digital technician Christian Hogstedt Photo assistants Benjamin Tietge, Tomo Inenaga, Felix Cooper Stylist assistants Courtney Kryston and Adrian Fekete Makeup assistant Ninni Nummela Hair assistant Meggie Cousland Tailor Rose Chandler Production Jemima Hobson and Michelle Lu (Art Partner) On-set production Gawain Rainey and Alice Ferrante (10-4 Inc.) Videographer Balthazar Klarwein Video Look Films Set design assistant David White Retouching R&D Location Spring Studios, London Catering Katethecook
inteRnS Sarah Alkhaled Wyatt Allgeier Morgan S. Boyer Martin Hamery Sara Kim Viktoria Kim Ali Kornhauser R. Vincent Patti Jonathan Wehner Chun Hung Wang Wendy Yanan Wang 90
Photography Junichi Ito Fashion Emily Barnes
editOR-in-chief cReatiVe diRectOR
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FANCY AND FREE
Net-A-Porter.com ANd mr Porter.com host VisioNAire’s Free store by joNAthAN horowitz At the sLs hoteL duriNg Art bAseL miAmi.
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THAT’S AMORE
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Hilary Carlyne Cerf Rhoda de Dudzeele
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derek bLAsberg LAuNches his stAtioNery coLLectioN For oPeNiNg ceremoNy with A teA PArty At the st. regis New york
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Josephine de la Baume
Alexa Chung
Heidi Constance Mount Jablonski
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WORDS WITH FRIENDS
desigNer itALo zuccheLLi ANd cALViN kLeiN FÊte the FALL 2013 meNsweAr coLLectioN iN miLAN with A PriVAte coNcert by eLLie gouLdiNg
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Mr Hudson
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DONATELLA & CO.
doNAteLLA VersAce hosts AN iNtimAte diNNer iN hoNor oF her receNt hAute couture coLLectioN At Le bristoL hoteL iN PAris
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ARMANI MANIA
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giorgio ArmANi ceLebrAtes the oPeNiNg oF his secoNd PAris FLAgshiP 92
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SMALL WORLD, BIG BASH
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AsmALLworLd LiVes it uP iN gstAAd As PArt oF its third ANNuAL wiNter weekeNd
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© 2013
SPRING 2013 COLLECTION
FLashBaCK
Elizabeth Taylor & Richard Burton
DYNAMIC DUO HALL OF FAME
Decades before TMZ, these piping-hot messes found each other on the set of Cleopatra and changed fame forever. “I’m so happy you can’t believe it,” Liz said of her ffth and later sixth husband (they married and divorced twice). “This marriage will last forever.” SPHERE OF INFLUENCE: Checkout counters across the nation, where judgey hausfraus tracked their every move PINNACLE OF POWER: 1966, the year Mike Nichols distilled their pathos in Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf ? DICK MOVE: “The most beautiful woman in the world is absolute nonsense,” Burton once remarked. “She has wonderful eyes, but she has a double chin and an overdeveloped chest, and she’s rather short in the leg.” FUN FACT: The Vatican condemned their relationship as “erotic vagrancy.”
In fashion as in life, there’s power in pairs. And whether united as friends, lovers, sisters, or business partners, the following double acts packed twice the punch TEXT ChrisTophEr TEnnanT
Ken & Barbie
Will fashion’s famous fack and her booze-addled bestie ever fnd happiness? Of course not. But they’ll try, one fad at a time. SPHERE OF INFLUENCE: London and New York, their species’s native habitat PINNACLE OF POWER: The mid-’90s, technically, but since they’ve warped the minds of a generation, only time will tell. THE TAO OF EDINA MONSOON: “Lacroix, sweetie, Lacroix.” FASHION LEGACY: Without Ab Fab, there would be no “totes maje.” Think about that for a sec. Alexis Bittar’s Fall/ Winter 2012 campaign was a sly nod to their singular infuence.
Antonio Lopez & Juan Ramos
Keith Richards & Anita Pallenberg
A Puerto Rican power couple forged at FIT, Lopez, the gifted illustrator, and Ramos, the OCD art director, sketched the ’70s fashion scene in their own lascivious image. SPHERE OF INFLUENCE: Mixing art and commerce like nobody’s business, they did windows for Barneys, billboards for Bloomingdale’s, and illos for every mag that mattered. PINNACLE OF POWER: The mid-’80s, when they launched simultaneous campaigns for YSL, Valentino, Versace, Kamali, and Missoni FASHION LEGACY: The careers of Grace Jones, China Chow, Jerry Hall, and an aspiring model named Jessica Lange, to name a few FUN FACT: Ramos got his start as a WWD intern.
That everyone’s favorite Stone and his throaty German sorceress both survived their comically dysfunctional union is a tribute to the human spirit. Louche fur looks, champagne, and cigarettes never looked this cool. SPHERE OF INFLUENCE: Europe and New York in the early ’70s, when they partied their way through the world’s top hotels PINNACLE OF POWER: The night in 1967 in Morocco when Keith whisked Anita away from Brian Jones FUN FACT: Anita did a four-year stint at Central Saint Martins in the mid-’90s. FASHION LEGACY: Junky chic
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Photofest (Taylor & Burton, Ab Fab, Richards & Pallenberg); Corbis (Ken & Barbie); Courtesy ANTONIO LOPEZ Fashion, Art, Sex & Disco by Roger Padilha and Mauricio Padilha
Edina & Patsy
According to Mattel, they’ve been together since 1961, after meeting on the set of a TV commercial. Both have switched careers at least 40 times since, and neither has genitals. SPHERE OF INFLUENCE: Your childhood; Malibu PINNACLE OF POWER: The ’70s were arguably a high point, but they’ve been humming along pretty consistently since day one. FASHION LEGACY: Legs that won’t quit; impeccable tans FUN FACT: In 2010, Mattel issued a Palm Beach–inspired collection featuring “Sugar’s Daddy Ken,” complete with silver pompadour, brocade blazer, and West Highland terrier puppy.
©2 01 3 REED KRAKOFF LLC
R e e d K R a Ko f f.c o m
FLASHBACK
Kansai Yamamoto & Sayoko Yamaguchi In 1971, he became the frst Japanese designer to show in London. In 1972, she became the frst Japanese model to walk in Paris. Together, they redefned beauty in the West and brought back the kimono. SPHERE OF INFLUENCE: New York, Paris, and Tokyo, where they partied with Elton, Bowie, and other glam-rock greats PINNACLE OF POWER: In 1972, he designed Bowie’s costumes for the Ziggy Stardust tour. In 1977, she appeared on the cover of Steely Dan’s sixth album, Aja. FUN FACT: In 2010, Kansai designed the Skyliner train that connects Narita Airport to central Tokyo. FASHION LEGACY: Though Sayoko is no longer with us, her trademark fringe has never been more alive.
Halston & Elsa Peretti People were always saying that if you could bottle the magic this Italian model-turned-jewelry-designer and Iowa-born dressmaker made when they got together you could make a billion bucks. And so they did. They called it Halston, and it’s the second-best-selling perfume of all time. SPHERE OF INFLUENCE: New York City mostly, both uptown and down
PINNACLE OF POWER: The late ’70s and early ’80s FUN FACT: Halston’s bosses at Max Factor wanted his frst fragrance to be “Chanel-like”—in a rectangular bottle with a visible label that could be easily manufactured. He chose the modern design put forth by Peretti and came out on top. FASHION LEGACY: Aside from the scent, the iconic series of photos taken by Helmut Newton in 1975 of Peretti modeling her friend’s Playboy Bunny suit
Mary-Kate & Ashley Olsen
Posh & Becks Between the eras of Lady Di and Kate and Wills, Victoria and David Beckham arose as the swankiest celebs in England—a real-life fairy tale. The working-class lad with superhuman footie skills and his pop princess even had their own Beckingham Palace. SPHERE OF INFLUENCE: It was a Spice World, we just lived in it. PINNACLE OF POWER: Their 2007 move to Los Angeles was accompanied by incredible fanfare including a welcoming party hosted by the couple formerly known as TomKat. FASHION LEGACY: Papa has made a pretty penny of posing in his skivvies and Victoria’s chic eponymous label now has an equally as sleek difusion line. Recently, their handsome 10-yearold son, Romeo, rocked a Burberry campaign alongside Cara Delevingne and Edie Campbell. FUN FACT: The Spice Girls’ aliases—Scary, Ginger, Baby, Sporty, and Posh—were given to the group by Top of the Pops magazine in 1996. 96
Valentino Garavani & Giancarlo Giammetti In 1960, the wunderkind couturier, who had recently set up shop in Rome, met a dashing young architecture student on the Via Veneto. Together, they would build an empire. SPHERE OF INFLUENCE: By the mid-’60s “Valentino” was a byword for jet-set chic—the go-to designer for Jackie Kennedy, Babe Paley, Marella Agnelli, Jayne Wrightsman, and every dowager worth a damn. PINNACLE OF POWER: The Last Emperor, Matt Tyrnauer’s Academy Award–nominated documentary, which chronicled the lead-up to Valentino’s three-day retirement soirée, in 2008. FASHION LEGACY: The first brand to bankroll lavish ad campaigns (which had previously been funded by fabric makers), Valentino also helped to pioneer ready-to-wear and tested the outer limits of licensing. FUN FACT: From 1983 to 1985, the Ford Continental came in a “Valentino Edition.”
Berliner/WWD; courtesy Inez & Vinoodh; Corbis (Garavani & Giammetti, Beckhams); courtesy Kansai Yamamoto
As Michelle Tanner, they bewitched a nation with their winning mix of perfect dimples and can-do American moxie. Our favorite fraternal twins ever? You got it, dude. SPHERE OF INFLUENCE: Full House ran from 1987 to 1995, but it’s basically a blip on their shared CV. They were billionaires by age 18: the world was, and still is, their platinum-plated oyster. PINNACLE OF POWER: Present day. Between The Row, Olsenboye, and Elizabeth and James, they’ve got their tiny hands full. A-LIST ENDORSEMENT: “Prince Williams ain’t do it right if they ask me / ’Cause I was him I woulda married Kate and Ashley”–Kanye West FASHION LEGACY: Nearly a decade before Rodarte designed cofee mugs for Starbucks, the Olsens made lugging around a venti look stylish.
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pierre et gilles
The inseparable artists have been creating opulent portraits of iconic celebrities since the ’70s, capturing Andy Warhol, Madonna, Marc Jacobs, and many more. In the latest chapter of an incredible story that includes their own romantic tale, here they debut a work that celebrates the new right of gays and lesbians to marry in France Pierre et Gilles’s hand-painted photographs are both highly revered—the likes of New York’s Museum of Modern Art and PPR king François Pinault collect them—and instantly recognizable. Exquisitely colorful and perversely naïve, the French artists’ dreamlike portraits capture the intensity of their subjects, who include Andy Warhol, Iggy Pop, Madonna, Marc Jacobs, and Catherine Deneuve. “Their images are iconic, yet none of their sitters look robotic,” says shoe designer Christian Louboutin, a friend since the late 1970s. “That’s because everything is done by hand and they don’t use a computer, which can rub out the character of the face.” Pierre et Gilles are an inseparable and unusual couple—“both in their professional and personal life,” according to Louboutin. In the increasingly technical world of photography they are extremely artisanal. “Each portrait takes about three weeks from the beginning to the end,” explains Gilles, “because we do everything from creating the décor to taking the picture to constructing the frame.” With regard to choosing ideas, “We are always inspired by the person’s personality,” says Pierre. The couple—Pierre Commoy and Gilles Blanchard, always referred to as Pierre et Gilles—met in 1976 at the inauguration of the Kenzo boutique in the Place des Victoires, and a few months later started living and working together. “Pierre took photos and I did painting,” says Gilles. Their famous technique began thanks to a photo session with some of their girlfriends, who were snapped grimacing. “I used really bright colors and was pretty disappointed by the result,” says Pierre. “It was not flashy enough,” says Gilles. “And that’s why I decided to paint on the photographs to further express our vision.” It was daring and “very precise,” according to Farida Khelfa, the French style icon and one of their early subjects. “Really, they invented Photoshop before anyone,” she says. Their frst professional portrait was of Andy Warhol for Façade magazine, the now defunct French publication. “We went to his apartment on Rue du Cherche-Midi,” says Pierre. “And it was really exciting because we were his superfans,” adds Gilles. Their second cover portrait was of Iggy Pop. “Talk about rock and roll,” enthuses Pierre. They arrived at Pop’s hotel room to fnd him in bed with a groupie and a battlefeld of empty champagne bottles and glasses smashed into the carpet. “We took a picture of him in a white shirt wearing Pierre’s leather tie, which Iggy refused to give back,” says Gilles. Their reputation quickly attracted the attention of designer Thierry Mugler and led to their creating his invitations for three years. “Thierry would talk about the collection and give us the colors,” says Gilles. “It was a delightful experience.” They also began to work with Jean Paul Gaultier and to take pop-world portraits, ranging from Sylvie Vartan to Madonna. “Singers corresponded to our childhood,” says Pierre. It was in 1996, with Taschen’s publication of their complete works—launched to coincide with a retrospective of their work at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie—that their career exploded. “In Bangkok, we found people selling our photos printed onto canvases lined up next to fake Picassos and Warhols,” says Gilles. “And in Spain, they put our Virgin Madonna on the cans of beer,” recalls Pierre. Though their public persona is defnitively downtown and edgy (count on them wearing jean jackets to black-tie events), in private, Pierre et Gilles bring to mind courteous, sweet-natured elves consumed by their art. Indeed, their studio (which doubles as living quarters) is an eccentric shrine to their make-believe world. Upstairs sits Gilles’s atelier—a delightful indoor greenhouse—where a portrait of a blond Adonis with elaborate wings waits patiently for the fnal brushstrokes. Elsewhere, makeshift sets refecting Indian and Sri Lankan infuences are scattered around a kitchen table, wooden chairs, and more practical-looking furniture. In the basement, the photo studio has been transformed with kitsch décor—a saccharine serenade of silver stars and pink tulle—commemorating Koh Masaki, a famous Japanese porno star. “He’s beautiful,” says Gilles. Masaki is “100 percent gay,” according to Pierre, as is a large percentage of their work. “We’ve never hidden being gay,” says Pierre. But as his partner is quick to point out, “We’ve taken photographs of everyone and never placed ourselves in the gay ghetto.” Their autoportrait salutes gay marriage, which has just become legal in France. “It’s actually our second time doing this,” notes Pierre. “Because in 1993, we did a fake wedding which showed Gilles as a bride.” As ever, Pierre et Gilles remain ahead of the game. Natasha Fraser-CavassoNi
vive les mariés, 2012 PhotograPhy Pierre et gilles 1 00
heroes
On the set of Grey Gardens with Big Edie and Little Edie Beale. Below from left: with the Rolling Stones for Gimme Shelter; on the set of Salesman; at their New York ofce
albert and david maysles
America’s finest documentary filmmakers, brothers Albert and David Maysles, have earned the trust of everyone from Bible salesmen in Boston to the Beatles to Muhammad Ali. Their untouchable oeuvre lives on
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All photos courtesy Maysles Films
“The humanity is just what’s missing from flm today,” says Albert Maysles, one half of the power duo that has brought us some of the most compelling social documentaries of our time. He is sitting at a wonderfully cluttered desk in his Harlem ofce, an unassuming three-story building that sits quietly in the heart of the neighborhood. Just past the glorious Apollo and around the corner from a bevy of fast-fashion and food chains, the structure is a mulitcultural center known as the Maysles Institute, which incorporates Maysles Films, the company cofounded by Albert and his (now deceased) brother, David, in 1962. Throughout their work, the Maysles have showcased humanity in a wide variety of styles and forms, from Bible salesmen going door-to-door (Salesman, 1968) to Hell’s Angels attacking and ultimately killing a man at a Rolling Stones concert (Gimme Shelter, 1970) to Jackie Kennedy Onassis’s cousins living in a state of decay (Grey Gardens, 1975). Fashion afcionados and professionals alike have bordered on obsession with the latter of these eforts. “Designers still come up to me to tell me it inspires them,” says Albert, who credits the flm’s authenticity to a lack of agenda. “Big Edie and Little Edie were on their own. All that we were after was who they really are. And that’s all they really wanted. It was enlightening.”
This year Albert will be 87, and he still revels in his tale as if it happened last week. During a break from teaching psychology at Boston University, he yearned for an adventure, so he convinced Life magazine to lend him a camera and went to film mental hospitals in Russia. The resulting work, Psychiatry in Russia, hooked the elder Maysles on the art of filmmaking. Meanwhile the younger brother was finishing a tour of duty in the Korean War. Following David’s service, each of them worked on individual projects (one of which included David’s turn as an on-set assistant which led to Albert’s having a chance encounter with Marilyn Monroe: “She was dressed in a towel. I could tell from the conversation that she was quite intelligent,” he says). The fascination had set in. “My brother did sound and I did the camera,” recalls Albert of their process. “He also supervised the editing. We had sufciently responsible roles and depended on each other. One of the best things that ever happened to me was having a brother that I could work with.” Together they were among the first to pioneer non-narrative documentaries. The type of exposure their approach generated might have made some subjects blanch, but the pureof-heart Maysles were never about ticket sales or hidden agendas. “I’m taken to think that making a documentary involves an act of friendship,” Albert says. “You become friends through a mutual like for each other, and trust. And that happens almost right away. It carries you all the way through. People become friends in the most intimate way because you really get to know them behind the scenes.” The lack of pretense in someone who is so accomplished is striking. Maysles Films continues to be a family business, with Albert’s four adult kids each contributing to the company. Albert’s eyes twinkle at the prospect of new ideas. He’s got a handful of films in the works, one that assembles years of footage from his traveling on trains whereby he would home in on someone, learn their story, and film them getting off at their destination. Another features six-year-olds engaged in adorable tête-à-têtes. And yet another is inspired by an album featuring ladies’ bums in brightly colored cutoff shorts that hangs on the wall next to his desk. “Oh, that,” he says with a laugh. “I’m doing this crazy film in Central Park where, in the warmer seasons, I sit on a bench and film women’s behinds as they go by. It’s amazing, the variety.” Always inspired, indeed. sarah cristobal
www.samedelman.com
WORK in pRO GRess PhotograPhy JaSon Schmidt
Listen Up
No one has a better ear for the esoteric than sound artist Sabisha Friedberg, who addresses levitation with turnof-the-century tunes When Justin Luke of AVA (Audio Visual Arts) approached me to do a show at his space in the East Village, I was very enthused because it is one of the only galleries specifcally dedicated to sound art. The dimensions of the space make it a welcome challenge in terms of conceiving an appropriate installation. One’s ideas have to be very concerted and considered, sublimating the elements to the essential. I think that the most interesting venues in New York right now are these kind of contained and focused environments. For this exhibition I am inspired by and have proposed the idea of levitation as a conceptual framework. I address it through calculated frequency interplay within the space and by way of a sound sculpture, which I am developing into a series that demonstrates acoustic hovering. In addition, I present visuals as adjunct to the sound piece: invented schematics based on arcane sciences, narrative drawings, and various self-penned texts. Outside are speakers above, with which Justin makes music available subtly to passersby on the street. I have a program list of music from the late turn of the 19th century to early teens—a vibrant time of sound and recording discoveries. As the inside exhibition alludes to a lofty esotericism, I chose tunes for the exterior that were specifcally brazen and profane. SabiSha Friedberg 10 5
WoRk in pRogRess
Cabin Fever
Will Ryman challenges capitalist notions in America with a golden log cabin at the Paul Kasmin Gallery This photo was taken about three days after the foundation structure of the cabin was completed at my studio in Williamsburg, Brooklyn—a production image shot before the next phase, in which the structure will be chromed. A reimagining of Abraham Lincoln’s boyhood cabin, the piece is my own exploration of the arc of capitalism in the United States. The interior, which is not shown here, is made up of the consumer, industrial, and agricultural products that were instrumental in growing the American economy. Here you see a structure within a structure, which is what I think Jason [Schmidt] liked about this shot. Will Ryman 1 06
art
dual design
In love and war alike, sparks fy when two strong wills collide. When it comes to making collaborative artworks, the results can be just as explosive
Pierre Huyghe & Philippe Parreno Skin of Light, 2001 Two French artists with well-established solo practices, Pierre Huyghe and Philippe Parreno joined forces in 1999 to carry out a prescient, dreamlike project called No Ghost Just a Shell. Together they purchased the rights to an anime character called Annlee and brought her to life in several videos. They then signed her copyright over to a corporation founded in her name, legally emancipating Annlee, while at the same time sentencing her to perpetual inexistence.
text kevin mcGarry
Marina Abramović & Ulay Rest Energy, 1980 and Relation in Time, 1977 Before Marina Abramović was known as the grandmother of performance art, she was birthing all kinds of groundbreaking actions in the 1970s and ’80s with her longtime collaborator Ulay. (They also share a birthday, diferent years.) Self-styled as twins, they pushed the limits of their bodies and of their unconditional trust for one another in their performances, sharing breath to the point of near-asphyxiation, or holding opposite ends of a bow and arrow primed to pierce Abramović’s heart. The dramatic end to their work together came in 1988, when each walked 1,555 miles down the Great Wall of China from either end—she from the sea, and he from the desert—to meet in the middle and say good-bye.
Christo & Jeanne-Claude
Komar & Melamid
The Mastaba of Abu Dhabi, 1979 Christo Vladimirov Javacheff and his late wife, Jeanne-Claude Marie Denat, were born in Bulgaria and Morocco, respectively, on the very same day: June 13, 1935. From thousands of orange gates dropped into Central Park to several million square feet of hot pink fabric draped around the islands of Biscayne Bay, they are known for enlisting the massive resources of civic bodies to realize their environmental artworks. Conceived in 1977, their magnum opus, The Mastaba, is now finally in production in Abu Dhabi. A flat-topped pyramid built of 410,000 oil barrels, it will be the duo’s only permanent sculpture—and, fittingly, the largest in the world.
America’s Most Wanted, 1994 Scrutineers of the power and perversity of national symbols, Russian-born American artists Vitaly Komar and Alexander Melamid made art together for almost 40 years. However, it was in the mid-1990s that they seized mass attention with their “People’s Choice” series. Utilizing pre-Internet polling companies, the artists interpreted data culled from thousands of respondents to determine the content, style, and size of the “most wanted” and “most unwanted” paintings of 11 countries, and painted them. China’s favorite would be an enormous blue landscape featuring an ox, a framed portrait, and a withered tree.
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Allora & Calzadilla Armed Freedom Lying on a Sunbed, 2011 Jennifer Allora and Guillermo Calzadilla are based in Puerto Rico and are known for reworking materials of all kinds into metaphors that illuminate new political and economic systems ushered in by globalization. They represented the United States at the 2011 Venice Biennale with an exhibition full of memorably upended icons of American empiricism, including an upside-down tank topped with an operable treadmill and a charred-looking copy of the statue crowning the United States Capitol Building, laid on its side in a lit tanning bed.
Lizzie Fitch & Ryan Trecartin Local Dock, 2011 Collaborators since their Y2K art school days at RISD, Lizzie Fitch and Ryan Trecartin not only make work together, they often work inside each other’s projects. They weave in and out of their respective practices and enlist many other artists to do the same, at times coauthoring sculptures and environments, and at others using one (a video by Trecartin, for instance) as the container for another (a sculptural set made by Fitch).
from top lEft: lancÔme vErnis in lovE polish in pEach mÉlodiE, khÔl in lovE EyElinEr in JadE crush, “in lovE” dEwy mist ($15, $26, $37, lancomE.com) 110
Face-Of For their Spring 2013 collection, Viktor & Rolf took the Old Hollywood trope one step further introducing two T-shirts of patched silk and leather, wrought in the visage of the era’s sloe-eyed vamps. The rest of the collection trod familiar fashion territory with its silver gelatin 1940s glamour, recalling Hurrell portraits of Bacall and Crawford, but the Dutch design duo had us seeing double with these two looks, maintaining the quirk factor the pair does so well. christopher barnard
EmbossEd t-shirt in patchEd silk and lEathEr (pricE upon rEquEst, viktor-rolf.com)
Clockwise from top: Courtesy Inez & Vinoodh, courtesy Viktor & Rolf; Alexi Lubomirski for LANCÔME © 2013
Emma Falls In Love “Growing up on a flm set, the makeup ladies were like my surrogate mothers,” jokes Emma Watson, who now as a proper adult is the face of Lancôme’s new In Love collection of colorful cosmetics. Inspired by spring forals and Parisian romance, the line is flled with poppy hues for the eyes, cheeks, nails, and lips. Kohl liners come in cool shades of deepwater blue and jade crush, while the neon translucent lip balms are among Watson’s favorites. “All four of the colors are really easy to wear,” she says. “And since I’m very pale, I’m a big blusher girl. The nice thing is that you can wear it all over your face, almost like a powder, and it makes you look healthy!” Listen to the pro. She knows of what she speaks. sarah cristobal
— Read all aBout It! —
— eXHIBItIoNIStS —
Groovy Reads Seventies nostalgia is a reoccurring theme in this spring’s most notable books. ct The Flamethrowers ($26, simonandschuster.com) In Rachel Kushner’s ambitious follow-up to Telex From Cuba, which was nominated for a National Book Award, a dreamy young beauty named Reno fnds love on the fringes of the Soho art scene with a rakish Italian tire heir. He promptly whisks her of to Rome, and this being 1977, she joins a radical leftwing terror group. Speedboat ($14, nybooks.com) The long-awaited reissue of New Yorker writer Renata Adler’s 1976 novel, about a journalist suspiciously like herself, is here. It reads like early Didion, and flopped like the Velvet Underground’s first LP: no one bought it at the time, but everyone who did (like David Foster Wallace) wrote a book of their own.
Shoe Obsession at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, now through April 13
The Interestings ($28, riverhead.com) Meg Wolitzer kicks of her buzzy tenth novel in 1974 at a summer camp for artsy kids, where a tight-knit group of campers is plotting world domination. The result is a Franzen-like treatise on talent, fate, friendship, and the limits of all three.
The Costifs Revisited In the late 1980s, Comme des Garçons designer Michael Costiff and his wife, Gerlinde, were “London’s Most Glamorous Couple”—and kept the journals to prove it. This month, Louis Vuitton maestro Kim Jones gives them their proper due by showing the world their archives. Michael & Gerlinde’s World is the first book on Jones’s new imprint Slow Loris Publishing. cHRIStoPHeR teNNaNt
From left: Courtesy Slow Loris Publishing; courtesy NYBooks; courtesy Riverhead Books; courtesy Taschen; Manolo Blahnik, Pierre Hardy, and Giuseppe Zanotti Design courtesy Lynn Ban Photograph © The Museum at FIT; Photograph by Terry O’Neill Hand coloring by David Bowie, courtesy of The David Bowie Archive, 2012 Image © V&A Images; copyright Norman Parkinson Limited/courtesy Norman Parkinson Archive
How did it feel to go through all your archives? Michael Costiff It was rather exhilarating, actually. It was all shoved away and I never looked at it myself aside from occasionally digging through to fnd a particular photo. It gave me a reason to dive back in and to realize there had actually been a point to hanging on to it all! How did you frst connect with Kim? MC We met a few years ago out and about, and it was at a dinner party one night that I mentioned that Gerlinde and I had always kept diaries, so when he visited my a fat a few weeks later, I asked if he would like to see one. I was quite amazed by his enthusiastic reaction as he pored over each page. Of course, out came another diary, and it turned into a very late night! What’s your favorite memory from that era? MC I’m actually quite overwhelmed seeing our diaries in book form. Each page contains a whole world of memories. The images are so strong each new page makes you seem to forget the ones before. There’s a lot in it. How’s your working relationship with Rei Kawakubo? MC I had a really hard couple of years after Gerlinde died so suddenly in ’94. We had always been together, and I was very lost. It was Rei who was my savior by fnding me and inviting me to have a space in her Dover Street Market shop in London and later Tokyo and Beijing. She is always very kind to me. She likes my history, my style, and most of all my taste. She pretty much encourages me to do whatever I like. It’s good to be part of the Comme des Garçons family. I’m very lucky. What was so special about Kinky Gerlinky? Were the parties really as fun as people say? MC In all honesty, yes! Gerlinde and I never wanted to be club promoters, but a friend persuaded us to have a party night in a West End club. We had just returned from Carnival in Rio, and London seemed horribly gray by comparison. The acid house scene was just starting with dress-down raves in warehouses and we wanted somewhere we could dress up and have a laugh. Our friends told their friends and it just grew and grew, moving to bigger and bigger clubs. This was before e-mail and mobile phones, remember. We did everything from our kitchen table! We had a huge guest list, of course, and quite a strict door policy that was as much about attitude as it was about outfts. Everyone was up for doing cabarets and catwalk competitions and we really encouraged an anything-goes ethos. It was a riot. Why aren’t there more parties like that today? MC Maybe there are! But in this digital information age, it’s difcult to keep things underground for long. I still have lots of fun nights out, just a diferent kind of fun.
Leroy Grannis: Surf Photography of the 1960s and 1970s ($15, taschen.com) In the ’60s and ’70s—long before Saturday’s Surf Shop and trafc jams in Ditch Plains—there was LeRoy Grannis, a surfer since the ’30s, snapping away on his longboard. Previously only available in a pricey limited edition, this afordable hardcover gives his infuential images a full airing.
American Dream Machine ($26, tinhouse.com) The Los Angeles Review of Books senior fction editor Matthew Specktor ofers a heartbreaking and hilarious tale of a powermad talent agent and his troubled sons striking it rich in the 1970s. Hollywood promises there will be blood, but it’s the fake kind.
David Bowie and William S. Borroughs from David Bowie is, at the V&A Museum, March 23–July 28
Mouvements de Femmes: Norman Parkinson by Roland Mouret at Bath in Fashion, April 13–21
It’s Showtime Style and museum mavens will have plenty to do this spring as some of the globe’s most venerable institutions kick off eclectic programs. In New York, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology presents Shoe Obsession (running now through April 13), an exhaustive study of footwear from industry legends (like Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin) and vanguardists (Nicholas Kirkwood and Pierre Hardy) alike—and why it’s all Carrie Bradshaw’s fault. In the UK, The Victoria and Albert Museum is partnering with Gucci to present David Bowie is (March 23–July 28). The museum sifted through the artist’s extensive (and heretofore untouched) archives, choosing 300 representative pieces, among them costumes, photographs, and films that speak to his groundbreaking life’s work. And next month, Bath in Fashion 2013 will show Mouvements de Femmes: Norman Parkinson by Roland Mouret (April 13–21). To coincide with the city’s annual weeklong fashion event, the British designer curated a collection of the photographer’s most popular images, along with some less well-known work, never publicly exhibited before. All to mark the photorapher’s centenary in high style. HBD, Parks! cB
EXTRAA Cuf Love
The runways for Spring were chock-full of brassy wristwear, wrought in plexi and precious metals. Our favorites range from Balenciaga’s romantic spirals and Saint Laurent’s bohemian grill to Michael Kors’s bold brace in gold tone and acetate. Vionnet’s rough hewn gem, meanwhile, borders on supernatural. We’re happy to keep our hands to ourselves with these trinkets to adorn them.
FROm tOP: baLenciaga by nIcOlAs GhesquIÈRe ($625, 212.206.0872) saint Laurent by hedI slImAne ($645, 212.980.2970) michaeL kors ($275, 866.709.5677) Vionnet ($858, vIOnnet.cOm)
Spray Fan Who would have thought a criminal form of street art would become synonymous with the undisputed champ of global luxury. But since 2001, when Marc Jacobs commissioned Stephen Sprouse to design a grafti bag for Louis Vuitton, the prints have appeared on sell-out accessories season after season. For Spring, three internationally renowned grafti artists selected by Jefrey Deitch have designed eye-catching scarves in their own unique tags. AIKO (left), from New York via Japan, who is known for her manga-style pop graphics, used traditional kimono patterns, marine motifs, and a double chain that represents wealth and well-being. From Brazil, twin brothers known jointly as Os Gomeos (middle), incorporate the LV monogram fower into their own sun and moon illustrations. And fnally, from Los Angeles, Retna (right), recalls the scripts of the ancients in a more dreamy, whimsical pattern. The three together are strikingly individual and provide an exciting note of color to the wave of minimalism happening on the Spring runways. cb
AIKO, Os GOmeOs, And RetnA scARves (PRIces uPOn Request, select Louis Vuitton bOutIques And lOuIsvuIttOn.cOm)
Think Pink Looking for a new scent? Spring fragrances are coming up roses this season with a blend of foral notes infused with citrus. Take the time to stop and smell. nicoLe catanese Still life photography Brendan James
FROm leFt: bottega Veneta eAu lÉGÈRe ($90 FOR 50 ml, sAKsFIFthAvenue.cOm) Dior mIss dIOR eAu de tOIlette ($75 FOR 1.7 OZ, $98 FOR 3.4 OZ, dIOR.cOm) Viktor & roLF FlOWeRbOmb lA vIe en ROse ($80, sePhORA.cOm) baLenciaga l’eAu ROse ($90 FOR 50 ml, nORdstROm.cOm)
Untamed. The new CLA and Karlie Kloss captured by Ryan McGinley and Jefferson Hack. www.mercedes-benz.com/fashion
MuSic
ECHOES OF SPRING
Your favorite bands of yesteryear are returning this season with highly coveted reissues and even some new releases. Here’s a look at some of 2013’s most welcome returns TexT T. cole rachel
The BreederS Originally released in 1993—at a time when alternative rock was growing bigger, darker, and frustratingly dude-centric—the Breeders’ Last Splash emerged like a blast of scrappy fresh air. Boasting the hits “Do You Love Me Now?” and “No Aloha,” as well as the ubiquitous mosh pit generator “Cannonball,” the album soundtracked a veritable summer of love for the Lollapalooza-loving generation. This year, Last Splash turns 20 years old (further evidence that Gen X is now officially long in the tooth), and to celebrate this milestone, the band’s classic 1992–94 lineup—drummer Jim MacPherson, bassist Josephine Wiggs, and indie-rock power twins Kim and Kelley Deal—will hit the road to bring Splash back to the masses. If that wasn’t enough to set the hearts of the aging alternative nation aflutter, this April, venerable indie label 4AD will release LSXX—a deluxe twentieth-anniversary edition of the iconic record that will include a smattering of outtakes and bonus material. The idea of revisiting Last Splash—a record considered by many to be as emblematic of the ’90s as Nirvana’s Nevermind—seems to engender nothing but good feelings on the part of the Deal sisters, who remember the making of the album fondly. “I didn’t think ‘Divine Hammer’ was actually going to be on the album,” recalls Kim of one of the record’s most beloved songs. “Kelley and I had been playing versions of that song since the early ’80s. We needed another song, so we kept the parts we liked and threw away the stuf we didn’t, and it turned out to be the second single, which I guess is a good thing!”
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daVid BoWie The Thin White Duke is sneaky. At a time when lots of people were actively wondering where the iconic singer had disappeared to, he decided to surprise the planet by dropping a new single—the lovely “Where Are We Now?”—and announcing the release of his first new album in well over a decade. Slated for March, The Next Day pairs Bowie with longtime collaborator-producer Tony Visconti on 14 tracks that are rumored to hark back to Bowie’s Young Americans days. Regardless of the vibe, a new Bowie album should thaw the hearts of any music lovers feeling like they’ve just suffered through the world’s longest winter. dePeche Mode In a nice bit of synergy, electro-pop godfathers Depeche Mode will release their thirteenth studio album in 2013. Recorded with Ben Hillier and mixed by Flood (the man responsible for helping craft some of the band’s biggest hits), the group’s as-of-yet-untitled new album (its first in nearly four years) promises to get back to the soul-meets-goth roots of 1993’s Songs of Faith and Devotion—which is surely music to the ears of the Mode’s many faithfully devoted.
Suede According to Suede’s eternally foppish front man, Brett Anderson, the band’s new album, Bloodsports, revisits some familiar territory. “It’s about lust, it’s about the chase, it’s about the endless carnal game of love,” he says, thus making it pretty much the same as every other great Suede record. One of the most unabashedly glammy bands in the history of British rock music, Suede hasn’t released an album in 11 years. Given the reaction to “Barriers”—the first song to emerge from the new record—the time is apparently right for swooningly romantic indie pop to come prancing back into the spotlight. Yeah Yeah YeahS On their fourth album, Mosquito, the Yeah Yeah Yeahs look to bring back a little bit of the dirty glamour that made early efforts like 2003’s Fever to Tell such paragons of rock awesomeness. Promising “more moodier and tripped-out songs than you’ve ever heard from us,” Karen O and co. ditch the electro sheen of their previous album in favor of dusting off their scuzz-rock roots. It remains to be seen if O can still conjure the wild banshee bravado that she personified nearly a decade ago, but a new YYY’s record might just be the shot in the arm the music world needs right about now.
MY BloodY ValenTine At this point, the appearance of a new My Bloody Valentine album would be an event nearly as momentous as photographic evidence of a rare Himalayan Sasquatch or verifiable proof of alien life on other planets. Still, all signs point to YES in regard to finally seeing the follow-up to My Bloody Valentine’s 1991 classic, Loveless, sometime in the nottoo-distant future. Last December, the band’s guitarist and creative mastermind, Kevin Shields, revealed via Facebook that the new album was finished and mastered. As of press time, the 22-year waiting game still continues… Phoenix It’s hard to believe that it’s been over four years since the release of Phoenix’s breakthrough album, Wolfgang Amadeus Phoenix, back in 2009. Fans of the band’s erudite pop stylings won’t have to wait much longer though, as its new album (the fifth full-length one) will finally arrive this April. Recorded in Paris over the past year, details have been kept tightly under wraps, but the French quartet’s label promises something “revolutionary”…presumably with a lovely Sofia Coppola–directed video or two.
Clockwise from top: Jimmy King, courtesy Iso/Columbia Records; Everett Collection; courtesy Murray Chalmers PR; Beomsik Shimbe Shim, courtesy Interscope Records/Universal Music; Gutter Getty credits Images; TK courtesy Press Here Publicity; Martin Falck, courtesy MUTE Records; gutter Getty credits Images TK
The Knife Karin Dreijer Andersson and Olof Dreijer might be the strangest sister-brother act in the history of showbiz…or at least in the world of pop music. Recording as the Knife for well over a decade, the two have cultivated an aura of mystery about themselves and their work that is both remarkable and, for lack of a better word, strange. Having eschewed most accepted tropes in pop music—a process that has involved performing in a variety of kabuki-esque costumes, a general refusal to do press or accept awards, and essentially inventing their own style of heavily vocodered, haunted-house electronica—the Knife is, for all intents and purposes, a peerless musical phenomenon. After pioneering a kind of art-infected sound with 2003’s Deep Cuts and 2006’s masterful Silent Shout, the duo appeared to have gone on permanent hiatus until, much to the glee of spooky-electronica lovers everywhere, they made a surprise announcement (via tweet) last December, saying: “Music can be so meaningless. We had to fnd lust. We asked our friends and lovers to help us.” The result of said newfound lust—a long-awaited full-length album called Shaking the Habitual—presents a bold and requisitely freaky direction for the band. Inspired in large part by Olof’s experiences taking women’s studies classes during the pair’s long downtime, Habitual builds on the wily electro of Silent Shout and pushes it in a variety of extreme new directions. Tracks like “Full of Fire” and “Without You My Life Would Be Boring” blend organic sounds with electronic noises that sound as if they are being summoned from demon-possessed machines. By way of explanation, Olof writes, “We made up our own sound sources / used made up, home made instruments / played traditional instruments in non traditional ways / tried to fnd non traditional ways of creating traditional sounds / we wanted to fnd a room where all sounds are just as odd, just as normal / where the border between normal and strange is erased.” While it’s hard to say if the band succeeded in erasing the borders between strange and normal (the record veers triumphantly into the land the former), few contemporary artists are exploring the fringes as thoroughly as these two, who’ve managed once again to draft a compelling vision of just what the future may sound like.
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Makeup Kristin Gallegos for Laura Mercier (CLM) Hair Wesley O’Meara for Bangstyle (The Wall Group) Manicure Eri Handa for Chanel (Atelier Management) Set design Erin Swift (Kate Ryan Inc) Digital technician Charles Lu Photo assistants Pavel Woznicki and Janneke de Jong Stylist assistant Hayley Pisaturo Set design assistant Adam Santucci Location Neo Studios
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From Bond girl to sci-fi siren, Olga Kurylenko is an actress for whom the sky is the limit. Now she’s tackling the role of a lovelorn soul in Terrence Malick’s Oklahoma-based opus To the Wonder
Dress Fendi
Terrence Malick’s latest flm, To the Wonder, has a lush, ponderous quality to it not unlike that of a gauzy, albeit arresting, fashion editorial. Free of dialogue save for a few voice-overs, it is intense and undeniably radiant. The flm’s players—including Ben Afeck, Rachel McAdams and Javier Bardem—are handsome and vulnerable. Its backdrops, from the sun-dappled felds of rural Oklahoma to the chilly stone edifces dotting Paris, are achingly picturesque. But if Malick is selling us on anything here, it’s his star, Olga Kurylenko. “He shoots with a very magic light,” she says. The Ukrainian-born actress, 33, was scouted in Moscow as a teen, subsequently moving to Paris, where she joined mega modeling agency NEXT. Working successfully into her late 20s, she fronted campaigns for Clarins, Sisley, and Kenzo perfumes. Prior to making her flm debut as the lead in Diane Bertrand’s erotically charged L’annulaire, Kurylenko appeared on the covers of Vogue Italia and French Elle. Getting physical has been par for the course for the former model. She’s featured in action ficks like Centurion alongside Michael Fassbender, and Luc Besson’s Hitman, her frst English-speaking role. But her best-known screen persona to date is that of Camille Montes, the murder-avenging scene stealer in the 2008 Bond fick Quantum of Solace. In April, Kurylenko stars with Tom Cruise and Morgan Freeman in the big-budget sci-f thriller Oblivion. “Tom is a fascinating person,” Kurylenko says of her costar. “He is one of the most generous actors I have ever worked with, and he has more energy than anyone I’ve ever met! I could watch him work all day long. I learned so much from him.” The same could be said for Malick. Praising the Oscarnominated flmmaker’s quirkiness, tenacity, and empathy, Kurylenko considers him a master of the human psyche. This quality comes in handy on the set of the romantic drama, where Malick’s characters, including Kurylenko’s Marina, are troubled souls. Falling in and out of love, they’re often lonely even in each other’s company. “Terry portrays human problems,” she explains. “He’s perceptive. He sees the problem and knows where it comes from. I think he’s a very good psychologist.” Kurylenko found herself physically drained on Malick’s set. The role, which required her to dance, fght, and break down, was emotionally exhausting. The experience took her “to the darkest place, ever, out of all of my movies. I’ve never been to such depths as in this one,” she says. “I scared myself, you know what I mean?” Malick, who also wrote To the Wonder, did not give his actors a script or scenes to prep beforehand. Rehearsing was impossible, since the writer-director only gave out pages just prior to shooting. Kurylenko described the “read it and go” process as both intimate and daunting. Her reactions, she explained, were more those of a civilian responding suddenly than of an actor inhabiting a studied role. At times Malick’s confdence in his protagonist’s abilities foored her. “You know, I always think about where I come from. And this guy who’s so amazing and whom I admire, he just trusted me. He believed in me,” she says, her voice betraying a sense of awe. “It turned my life into a fairy tale.” Sarah FoneS
olga kurylenko in new york ciTy, january 2013 Top Jil Sander earrings Tom BinnS deSign
PhoTograPhY PhiliPPe Vogelenzang FaShion Brandon maxwell
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naked ambition
Romanian-born beauty Catrinel Marlon is a natural athlete with the stamina for success. From Italian art-house flms to Armani campaigns, she is running away from the competition Growing up in rural Romania, 27-year-old model Catrinel Marlon always assumed she would follow in the footsteps of her family. Her parents were both professional athletes (mom was a Nadia Comaneci–trained gymnast, while dad was a national track-and-feld star with a knack for 400-meter hurdles), and she began training in gymnastics and sprinting at a young age. “I started when I was four, and for years it was my life,” recalls Marlon. Everything changed when she was spotted on the streets of her hometown, Iasi, in 2001, in a chance encounter that led to work in Greece, New York, and Milan. “When I was sent to New York, my agent told me not to be afraid—that New York is really hard, that girls get stuck for months and don’t get a single 118
job,” says the model. “But on my frst day of castings—I had six—I booked every job and worked for those clients for a month straight. I started to discover another world.” Those frst bookings brought more jobs, a collection of which soon developed into a rather intimidating career including stints as the face of Armani, the spokesperson for Fiat, and in a move that attracted more than a few male followers, several appearances in Sports Illustrated’s famed swimsuit issue. Now, more than 12 years later, Marlon is modeling for the likes of David Yurman (shot by Sebastian Faena) and quietly expanding her performance repertoire with a stealth move toward cinema. “A year ago I was having a really hard time and was on the verge of quitting the business,” she says. “Then a friend convinced me to try out for a part in a short Italian flm.” She got it and was hooked, going on to play a series of roles that she describes as “always dramatic, and very surreal,” including Italian art-house flms like La città ideale. When it comes to commanding the stage, it’s clear that Marlon is a natural. This image was taken by brand and advertising guru David Lipman, who is clearly enchanted by her subtle charms. “Cat and I went away for 12 days this past September,” he says. “We were pushing ourselves as an art endeavor. This picture, taken in Romania, represents deep meaning for both of us. I asked Cat to go deep inside herself and fnd the emotional pain and sufering she was feeling at that moment.” With her endless opportunities, Marlon is ready for what lies ahead, whatever it may be. “I’m going to try to do both—act and model—until the day when I want to give up,” she says. “Then I’ll pick an island, go there, and open a bar on the beach. What more could you want from life?” Ashley simpson
Catrinel marlon in romania, september 2012
photogrAphy dAvid lipmAn
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DJ turned chart-topping singer (and selfproclaimed worrier) Jessie Ware is rising through the ranks—and soon will even learn to enjoy it For “Running,” her frst solo video, singer Jessie Ware took a Method-like approach to preparations. “I wanted to be like, Bang! I’m not a backing singer anymore,” she explains. “This is my song, and I’m going to own it! I watched loads of Whitney Houston clips the night before. I wanted it to be over-the-top. I wanted to behave like a pop star.” Of course what ended up happening was more adorably drunken than diva. “I had a whiskey before we shot, and on the second take I fell down the stairs,” she laughs, reaching under the table to reveal a sizable scar on her right foot. “There was blood everywhere!” Whether or not she behaves like a pop star, Ware is fast gaining the following of one. A few hours after this interview, her frst U.K. tour—which was sold out—will conclude with a performance at Electric Brixton. She mentions the venue is just down the road from where we’re seated, in Ritzy Cinema’s bar, and then points down another street, exclaiming, “I live just down there!” The hometown performance will round out a stellar year for the artist, which saw the release of her frst album, Devotion, and its nomination for the prestigious Mercury Prize. While Ware frst gained attention for her sultry vocals on dubstep track “Nervous,” which she recorded with SBTRKT, she confesses that Devotion owes more to the infuence of soulful artists such as Lauryn Hill and Sade than to London’s underground dance scene. 1 20
Jessie Ware in brighton, england, november 2012
PhotoGRaPhy daVId huGheS FaShIon mIcheLe RaFFeRty left: top VeRSace right: Jacket J BRand shirt GueSS
devotion is available on april 2 from cherrytree/interscope
Makeup Sarah Reygate using Giorgio Armani Cosmetics (MY-Management) Hair Lok Lau using Bumble and bumble (CLM Hair & Makeup) Photo assistant Steve Neilson Retouching Tablet Retouching Location Concorde 2 Brighton
hyperawareness
“I loved my underground dance collaborations,” she says when asked why this album marked such a departure from the music genre that helped launch her into the limelight. “They loved me and accepted me and let me do music when I didn’t think I was going to. But I’m not a producer. I wasn’t making beats. I wanted to take those infuences and create a more classic sound. I wanted to make something that could be played in clubs but could also be played to my mum.” “My friend and I used to do a DJ thing, actually,” she adds, perhaps hoping to tactfully explain where her musical interests really lie. “We were called Yentl and the Gentile, and I used to wear a Barbra Streisand T-shirt. I was Yentl and she was the Gentile. It was so camp! We used to play Wedding Singer–style sets, with lots of party songs. We’d go from Chaka to Prince to Gwen McCrae.” Luckily, the Invisible’s Dave Okumu was as impressed by Ware’s voice as he was appreciative of her taste in music: the front man turned producer approached her with the beginnings of the album’s title track, “Devotion,” shortly after meeting her manager at a barbecue. “We instantly just fell madly in love with one another, as friends,” Ware gushes. “He’s really helped me, nurtured me, and mentored me while I’m trying to become an artist. I think he’s actually supernatural. He’s a wonder.” Even with Okumu’s reassurance, nerves plague the songstress, she admits. “I think it’s a Jewish thing. I’m so neurotic—I’m like Larry David. I’ve gotten to a position where all these people are helping me, and I don’t want to let them down. And really, deep down, I know there’s nothing to worry about. Maybe now I’m in a position to start thinking about how I want to run my career, and how I want my music to afect people…” Gesturing emphatically toward her heart, she concludes, “I guess I just want to know that people feel something, you know?” Zac BayLy
Going Graphic from left: clutch and sandal chanel pump louis vuitton Bracelet bottega veneta Bag marc jacobs Wallet Proenza schouler Bracelet giorgio armani
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bright spot
From geometric patterns to Far East infuences, Spring’s key accessories pack a powerful punch. Make a statement, if you dare PhotograPhy dan forbes fashion christoPher barnard
jeanpaulgaultier.com
Japanimation from top: Boot Prada Sandal CÉline Belt and necklace etro clutch devi Kroell cuff osCar de la renta
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clockwise from left: clutch kenzo shoe rag & bone circle clutch diane von furstenberg bags fendi bracelets hermĂˆs
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Set Designer Jesse Kaufmann (The Magnet Agency) Photo Assistants Will Styer, Joey Trisolini, Ricardo Rodz-Rivera Location Root [Brooklyn]
Cool Cubism
ALISON MOSSHART AND JAMIE HINCE OF THE KILLS FOR EQUIPMENT SPRING 2013 W W W. E Q U I P M E N T F R . C O M
what’s trending now Show some leg, catch someone’s eye, and even take a basket-weaving class if you’re keen to stay current. We’ve got you covered from head to toe PhotograPhy Maurizio Bavutti fashion Polina aronova
gLadiator girLs
Breeze through your day with these Battle-ready Boots
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FROM LEFT:
ALTUZARRA, PROENZA schOULER, sTUART WEITZMAN, vERsAcE, TOM FORD
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ThE sEasOn’s aTTEnTiOn-gRabbing EyEwEaR cOMEs in EvERy cOLOR and cOMpOsiTiOn
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FROM LEFT:
PRADA, REED KRAKOFF, michAEl KORs, cARvEn, DiEsEl TOps EDun
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NEW YORK - BEVERLY HILLS - BAL HARBOUR SHOPS
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DRESS DOLCE AND GABBANA ShoES vErA wANG
wEavE youR own faShion StoRy with piEcES compRiSED of natuRal ElEmEntS likE Raffia anD Rattan
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Makeup Talia Shobrook for Laura Mercier (Community) Hair Marki (Artlist New York) Models Karmay Ngai (Wilhelmina), Jenny Albright (NY Models), Jenna Walpole (NY Models), Chantal Stafford-Abbot (Marilyn), Josilyn Williams (DNA) Manicure Rieko Smith Digital technician Brett Moen (DTouch) Photo assistants Nic Ong and Niko Maragos Stylist assistant Kisha Jones Makeup assistant Nikki Dowers Hair assistant Gabriel Jenkins Retouching Spring Post Casting Natalie Joos Location 16 Beaver Studio
FASHION
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printemps-ĂŠtĂŠ 2013
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Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs stuart WeitzMan DoLce & Gabbana Miu Miu Marc Jacobs 1 34
PhotoGraPhy DanieL LinDh fashion christoPher barnarD
Photo assistants Ward Price and David Chow Prop assistant Leah Mulatrick Location Root [Brooklyn] Catering Lite Bites, Brooklyn
clockwise from Top lefT:
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Brighten up this season with jewel-tone shadows, striking gold liner, and eye-popping polish for a lively look PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL LINDH BEAUTY NICOLE CATANESE 1 36
Photo assistants Ward Price and David Chow Prop assistant Leah Mulatrick Location Root [Brooklyn] Catering Lite Bites, Brooklyn
COLOR stORy
Designer and Artist-Illustrator
“The best part of working together is our tennis match of creativity that never stops,� says Ruben Toledo. Their match-point union, honed over a span of 30-plus years, has produced a museum-worthy archive of thought-provoking garments, fantastical fashion illustrations, and enough books to fll a library. It is a symbiotic relationship that at its core is pure love. 1 38
This spread Makeup and Grooming Angie Parker (Ray Brown Pro) Hair Ashley Javier (Art+Commerce) Digital technician Marcus Hennig (CS Digital) Production CS Production Retouching CS Digital Location Highline Stages, NYC
Isabel and Ruben Toledo
These immensely talented twosomes have the power to shape the mood of a season with a single silhouette. Our closets would be lost without them PHOTOGRAPHY MAX VON GUMPPENBERG AND PATRICK BIENERT FASHION SABINA SCHREDER
Calvin Klein Collection
Italo Zucchelli, Men’s Creative Director, and Francisco Costa, Women’s Creative Director
Asked to explain the best part of working in tandem with Francisco Costa at such a prestigious brand, Italo Zucchelli, ever the passionate Italian, answers with his usual enthusiasm. “It’s being able to create something new within the codes that Calvin created a long time ago,” he says. “To put our stamp on it, and add a more contemporary edge to that vision.” His friend, the Brazilian-born Costa, is equally excitable when it comes to his trade. “My favorite collection is always the next one I’m working on…I love designing and try never to look back.”
Having long-established a reputation as the curators of cool in New York, Tokyo, and London, college buds turned Opening Ceremony shop owners took over as the creative directors of Kenzo in the Fall of 2011. “That frst collection for Kenzo holds a special place in our hearts,” says Lim. “It was a moment of realization that we were actually full participants in the world of Paris fashion.” The well-received debut, a mash of Japanese streetwear blended with Parisian panache, has fared well for the friends from UC Berkeley and certainly for the LVMH-backed brand. Their pied piper personalities dovetail perfectly with the label-loving hipster they tend to attract.
This spread Makeup and Grooming Angie Parker (Ray Brown Pro) Hair Ashley Javier (Art+Commerce) Digital Technician Marcus Hennig (CS Digital) Production CS Production Retouching CS Digital Location Splashlight SOHO
Kenzo
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, Creative Directors
Proenza Schouler
Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, Founders and Creative Directors
Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough exude a boyish charm that can’t be beat. Their rise from Parsons students whose thesis collection landed on the racks at Barneys to the heads of a multimillion dollar company was meteroic, and their youthful style feels paramount to their continued success. “It’s always nice to have a partner in this process,” says Hernandez. “To have the opinion of someone you respect—it is never a solitary process.” Financial viability (uptown fagship, requisite It Bag, etc.) and homerun collections every season give credence to the trope that it takes two, no matter how grounded and amiable they are individually.
Launched in the Spring of 2005 to much fanfare, the Rodarte label has always thrived of the synchronicity of this sister act. Their highly conceptualized collections are mind-blowingly creative, sparked by a wide swath of references ranging from Japanese manga to the California redwoods (stationed near their hometown of Pasadena) to slasher flms and most recently medieval times. With wide-eyed enthusiasm for all things pop culture, the pair can never fully satisfy their curiosity. The secret to their success? “We understand each other without even having to fully communicate,” says Laura. “In many ways we work as one person.”
Makeup Dawn Broussard (The Wall Group) Hair Katie Fate for Kérastase Paris Manicure Michelle Saunders (Manikit) Digital technician Marcus Hennig (CS Digital) Production CS Production Retouching CS Digital Location Milk Studios, L.A.
Rodarte
Laura and Kate Mulleavy, Founders and Creative Directors
Valentino
Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, Creative Directors Describing a collection as pretty these days can come of as pejorative. Enter Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino, who since 2008 have redefned womenswear in their stunningly delicate collections. (Just look at their most recent haute couture show to see how exquisite exquisite can be.) The conversation between them is one of propriety and subversion, lightness and dark, all in the glamorous context of their founding father, Valentino Garavani. “Working as a duo allows us to have a multifaceted vision thanks to the creativity and angle which each of us brings,” says Maria Grazia. “Our frst couture, the black collection, our frst show with Rockstuds, our frst menswear, and our last couture show were defnitely great collaborative projects,” says Piccioli, listing his favorites. “But for me too, the best is always yet to come.” Pretty, make way for beautiful.
rihanna wears Chaps CoCo de Mer kate and rihanna wear shoes (throughout) Christian Louboutin 1 44
When Rihanna and Kate Moss are in the same room, their cosmic connection is of the charts. Mario Testino turns up the heat on these fearless females in a saucy, hypersexualized photo shoot that has already attracted international buzz phoTogRaphy MaRIo TESTINo faShIoN MElaNIE WaRd TExT dEREK blaSbERg
Rihanna weaRs Top and leggings A.F. VAndeVorst BRiefs CArine Gilson haT CoCo de Mer JewelRy (ThRoughouT) heR own kaTe weaRs JackeT BAlMAin
slip AlissA VintAGe linGerie BRaceleTs CArtier
Earrings (on both) Cartier
Rihanna weaRs Jacket and slip Versace Mask KiKi de Montparnasse kate weaRs top and bow tie
KiKi de Montparnasse bRa carine Gilson pants Gucci belt Versace JewelRy cartier
kate wears slip, bra, briefs, cuffs KiKi De Montparnasse rihanna wears Jacket toM ForD briefs KiKi De Montparnasse chaps CoCo De Mer inset: rihanna wears Jacket and collar versaCe kate wears earrings Cartier
shoes Christian Louboutin JaCket VersaCe to see a video of this shoot, Go to vMaGazine.CoM
Makeup Charlotte tilbury (art partner) hair MarC lopez (artlist paris) Models kate Moss (iMG) and rihanna Manicure for Kate Moss Lorraine Griffin Manicure for rihanna Jenny LonGworth (cLM hair and MaKeup) set desiGn JacK fLanaGan (the MaGnet aGency) diGitaL technician christian hoGstedt photo assistants BenJaMin tietGe, toMo inenaGa, feLix cooper styList assistants courtney Kryston and adrian feKete MaKeup assistant ninni nuMMeLa hair assistant MeGGie cousLand taiLor rose chandLer production JeMiMa hoBson and MicheLLe Lu (art partner) on-set production Gawain rainey and aLice ferrante (10-4 inc.) VideoGrapher BaLthazar KLarwein Video LooK fiLMs set desiGn assistant daVid white retouchinG r&d Location sprinG studios, London caterinG KatethecooK
ast November, my phone was cha-chaing across the table with unnerving frequency. What was the dilemma? Family drama? Saucy gossip? The vibrations, I discovered, were a direct result of the countless music and fashion blogs erupting over the images that you see here. Hacked from an insider’s computer, the saucy pairing of Rihanna and Kate Moss engaged in S&M-esque poses melted everyone’s brains and even Rihanna’s Instagram account. “I posted them because I was so excited,” she revealed during our interview, adding that she deleted them when she realized it was the result of hackers. “I was so bummed because I thought they were so sick. It goes to show how badly people wanted this cover. I guess it was as big a deal to them as it was to me!” We received requests from all over the world for the rights to reproduce the pics, but weren’t ready to give them up or the story behind them, until now. The truth is that someone unexpected is to thank for this blessed pairing of fashion’s and music’s favorite bad girls: Kate Moss’s young daughter, Lila Grace. “I was a fan,” recalls the model of the pop star, “but what really started it was my daughter and her friends running round the house singing all the words to her songs.” So when Moss cohosted the 2009 Met Gala with Marc Jacobs and found herself sitting next to Rihanna, she did what any mother would do and whipped out her phone and sheepishly asked for a picture together. “I was, like, Are you fucking kidding me?” remembers Rihanna. “I was so starstruck. I’m not going to lie.” When Moss explained that the photo was for her kid, Rihanna was even more gobsmacked. “I didn’t know she had a child, and she still looks like this? So there’s hope for people who want babies and still want to be sexy,” she laughs. Moss remembers Rihanna that night too—“those amazing eyes”—and got her shot for Lila. Rihanna took a picture of them on her phone too, which she still proudly Both women have made entirely their own choices, and done a terrifc job at shows of today. The two bumped into each other again last February at another fabulous fête: keeping writers for high-fashion glossies and down and dirty tabloids extremely Stella McCartney’s presentation for a one-of dress collection, held at an old busy. They have been bold, beautiful, and unapologetic. They are, put bluntly, our London church. Stationed at diferent tables, models and dancers had secretly culture’s favorite badass bitches. Though when I ask Moss if she would call herself learned a choreographed number, which turned into a surprise fash mob that a bad bitch, she shuts me down: “That’s not very English, darling.” Rihanna, not included Amber Valletta, Shalom Harlow, and Yasmin Le Bon perched on dinner surprisingly, was a little more into the classifcation. “That is true!” she cheers. chairs and vogueing to Led Zeppelin’s “Immigrant Song.” That should have been “I know for sure I’m a control freak. I am defnitely in control. That’s the kind of enough excitement for the fashion-heavy crowd, but an equally thrilling collusion woman I am.” Moss is notoriously tight-lipped when it comes to the media, and though she was developing nearby. The chemistry between Kate, in a body-hugging cutout loosened up a little to grant a few interviews last year, in conjunction with the minidress, and Rihanna, sporting a long bias-cut slip dress, was brewing. Mario Testino had a front-row seat to their girlish antics, and when the photog- publication of her eponymous book, she remains mum today on the topics of rapher asked Rihanna when they could schedule a shoot, Moss was keen to par- tabloids. Rihanna’s personal life has always been part of the public domain. “But ticipate. “Kate overheard us talking and she said, ‘I want to do it with you!’ Again, I don’t read it anymore,” she says, adding that all the opinions coming at her via I was like, Are you fucking kidding me?” says Rihanna with a laugh. “I was dying the Internet and her active social-media streams can sometimes overwhelm on the inside. All my fantasies were coming true all at once: Mario, V, Kate Moss. her. “I already have too many voices in my head right now! I don’t have room I was like, This is an amazing threesome!” (On the subject of that night, Moss for that other stuff. If I let that other stuff in, it’ll take the space of productive is a little more cryptic. “I can’t remember what we talked about,” she says, then shit, and that isn’t good.” Has she ever posted anything on the Internet that she wanted to take down, or tried to correct a rumor? “It wouldn’t make a difference. with those trademark wide-set eyes dancing, adds, “It was a really good night.”) Moss—famously discovered at 14 by a modeling agent at New York’s JFK Airport There’s nothing we can do about that. There will always be them, and there will and then revolutionizing the concept of high fashion and beauty—and Rihanna— always be me.” The two love fashion as much as fashion loves them. How does Rihanna describe the Barbadian babe turned pop sensation and nonstop hit machine—might not at frst seem a likely pairing. One is the queen of London cool, the other a hip-hop her personal style? “It’s an expression of my mood. I’m more of a spontaneous fantasy. But it turns out the two have more in common than fashion-icon status: girl. I fnd myself drawn to the things that come together at the last minute. I hate meager beginnings, careers that started in the trenches of industries only the when a look looks over-thought. I hate when fashion looks too contrived. I just toughest can survive, and climbing to the absolute tops of their felds amid both throw myself in the closet and see what happens.” When asked who her favorite designers are, Rihanna cites Tom Ford and Michael Kors. “Tom Ford is just pure cultish worship and criticism. sex,” she explains. “Only the baddest bitch can wear that. And he knows how to tailor things to women to make them look so desirable. Michael Kors is just easy fashion that works for any age group. A girl can look sexy in the same dress when she is 20 as when she is 50. He is timeless.” Asked what designer inspires her now, Moss ofers only one: “Hedi [Slimane]’s new collection for Saint Laurent. Obviously. Living for…” On the set of the shoot, these bad girls kept it playful. “That was hilarious,” Moss says, her nose scrunching up like a feline vixen. Afterward, they’re still gushing about each other. “She is just an awesome, cool little rock star,” Rihanna says of Moss. The concept of playing with each other using masculine and feminine identities evolved organically, she says, and then, naturally, at the end, they got naked. “And that was the best shot,” Rihanna laughs. “Take her top of and put that bitch in my lap!” So the obvious question: would they get topless with each other again? Kate’s response: “In a heartbeat.” Rihanna: “That depends on the terms,” she laughs. “But I’m sure Kate knows them.”
It’s impossible to do it all on your own. These fve power couples take each other to the next level. Through love, hard work, and sheer determination, they continue to grow. And we grow with them
YOKO OnO AnD SEAn lEnnOn
Watching Yoko Ono and Sean Ono Lennon interact, one gets the sense that while they are devout pacifsts, their union is such that it’s them versus the world. Not in the sense of combat or anything remotely violent, but rather in an endearing, protective way. She whispers to him, he translates to a crowd. She dances while he sings. As special as it is, their bond goes beyond normal family ties; they are collaborators. Recently the pair has channeled their infuence to educate the public on the dangers of fracking, even going so far as to perform an adorable ditty on the Jimmy Fallon show called “Don’t Frack My Mother.” (Their website, artistsagainstfracking.com, has garnered the support of nearly 200 like-minded superstars including Lady Gaga, Questlove, and Susan Sarandon.) Additionally, Yoko, a highly recognizable yet often undervalued artist, and Sean, a successful musician in his own right, are working on an album together, due out later this year. Two halves of a whole, mother and son were asked the same four questions about how they relate to each other personally and professionally. sarah cristobal What do you admire most about your son? Yoko Ono He does try to do his best in everything he does. Does your relationship change when you’re working together? YO Not really. We are always the same. Do you love working together? YO It’s getting better every time. 1 56
Who or what inspires you these days? YO Funny you should ask…I was just thinking that it’s getting to be inspiring to work with my son, because he is so diferent from me in how he organizes things, and yet we talk the same language. What do you admire most about your mom? Sean Lennon I think her strength and resilience both creatively and physically. This is a woman who survived Tokyo being bombed in WWII, heard the Emperor surrender on the radio, as well as news of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. She was disowned from her family for marrying the artist Tony Cox. Then she meets my dad, and goes from being the reigning queen of the avant-garde in London, the toast of the town, to being scorned by so much of the world. Her career gets completely overshadowed. They move to New York, and my father is murdered while they are arm in arm. Since then she’s been running the business alone while raising a child, in an often-hostile world. I think her strength and resilience are remarkable and admirable. Does your relationship change when you’re working together? SL Our interactions work best in the studio when things have a more professional tone. As soon as we slip into mother and son mode, arguments can quickly ensue. I try and keep the personal stuf out of the workplace if I can manage it. Do you love working together? SL I do feel very lucky to be able to work with her. Many parent-child relationships dissolve into a series of boring lunches and dinners, perhaps a few feeting holidays. We get to really make something concrete, something we can hold onto years later and reexamine, something that will in fact outlive us both. Who or what inspires you these days? SL I am almost always inspired. The world is a bountiful place, both beautiful and horrifc. If I am ever uninspired it is my fault and certainly never the world’s.
Yoko ono and sean lennon in new York citY, januarY 2013
PhotograPhy PhiliPPe Vogelenzang Fashion brandon Maxwell
Makeup for Yoko Ono Michiko Boorberg for YSL Beauty Grooming for Sean Lennon Kristin Gallegos for Laura Mercier (CLM) Hair Wesley O’Meara for BanGStYLe (the Wall Group) Set design erin Swift (Kate Ryan Inc) Digital technician toto Cullen Photo assistants Pavel Woznicki and Janneke de Jong Stylist assistant Hayley Pisaturo Set design assistant adam Santucci Location MetroDaylight Studio
The unIversAlly Adored moTher And son
Yoko wears Top and haT her own sunglasses Thom Browne sean wears T-shirT Y-3 glasses and necklace his own
fashion’s favorite siblings
antoine and delphine arnault
Bernard Arnault’s acute business savvy and appreciation for luxury has certainly been passed on to his two eldest children, Delphine, 37, and Antoine, 35, who have shared the scion’s appetite for hard work since dipping their toes into the family business at an early age. Now this delightful brother-sister duo is continuing the Arnault legacy while honing their own professional prowess. Today, Delphine is one of the senior execs at the House of Dior, and is credited, along with CEO Sidney Toledano, for Raf Simons’s critically-acclaimed creative direction of the house. Antoine is in his third season as CEO at the much beloved heritage brand Berluti. French and fabulous, the Arnaults are also utterly charming. We can’t wait to see how their sartorial stories continue to unfold.
Makeup Violette for Dior (Management Artists) Hair John Nollet (B Agency) Photo assistants Olivier Saillant, Frederic David, Xavier Arias, Ben Sollich Stylist assistant Manuel Estevez Hair assistant Rudy Marmet (B Agency) Image direction Eric Pfrunder and Katherine Marre Retouching Ludovic d’Hardivillé Location Studio 7L
So tell us, how has it been to grow up with and then work with each other? [silence] Okay, who wants to go frst? Antoine Arnault I will defer to the eldest here. Delphine Arnault Ah, thank you. Antoine has been a part of my life since I was two years old. Now we work in diferent areas of the group. He’s at Berluti, I’m at Dior. But we’re both on the board of LVMH. I don’t know a life without him. Did you always get along? AA No, we were constantly fghting, like most brothers and sisters. DA We didn’t fght that often, did we? AA But it was extremely constructive in terms of our relationship now. That’s what makes a good sibling relationship. We found that we fought on the little things, but agreed on the important things. In my opinion, that’s what makes our strength now. When we fght now, it’s on the little things. That’s normal, right? Now is your time to dish, any embarrassing childhood moments? AA Coming back from the Bahamas once, I didn’t get a tan, so I tried to use a self-tanning cream. I didn’t know you had to put it evenly all over, so I had these orange stains on my face. But hey, I was 15. DA And it was the day of his class picture! What about you Delphine, any embarrassing moments? DA I had some pretty bad costumes at costume parties. AA When she’d wear them to parties that weren’t costume parties. DA I love Halloween in the States. What an amazing moment. Delphine, Time magazine described you as “fashion obsessed.” Would you say that’s true? DA Fashion obsessed? Yeah. My job is fashion. This is an extremely interesting industry. I get to meet young designers, a new generation of creative people. Even within the design teams at our brands there are amazing people. We are always looking at young talent. It’s the future. If you weren’t working in fashion, what would you be doing? DA Last week I was in L.A. and I went to visit Frank Gehry’s studio. I would want to work there. He’s a genius. But I’m not an architect and I don’t live in L.A., so perhaps I’ll keep this job. What about you Antoine? AA I would defnitely be in advertising. I started my career in the advertising department of Vuitton, and it’s something I always liked. What are you doing with Berluti now? AA This was a development I had in mind for a long time. There’s a strange gap in the men’s business where the super highend, classic man doesn’t know where to get his apparel. It’s either too fashion or too boring. But Berluti will fll that gap. It’s not avant-garde menswear, where you’ll fnd bold prints or asymmetrical collars or things like that. Berluti is a beautiful suit, a beautiful coat, a beautiful pair of jeans that you can wear for years. DA And the craftsmanship is also fantastic. And the quality of the materials too. See, big sister has your back. AA We do overlap, and help each other quite often. From our discussions have come some of our best ideas. So you don’t fght about business, only about family. DA No, we don’t fght. I don’t know why he says that. AA See, we’re fghting now.
antoine and delphine arnault in paris, january 2013
PhotograPhy karl lagerfeld fashion and text derek blasberg antione wears clothes berluti delphine wears clothes dior
iconic image-making couple
inez and vinoodh
Inez and Vinoodh would often come and see my performances in Frankfurt, with the William Forsythe Company, because we used to have a residence in Amsterdam and one in Paris—we were basically traveling all over and our path would cross theirs. I didn’t know them, but they came to see the company. I went to an exhibition of theirs in Holland. This was at the very beginning of their careers—they hadn’t even shot that infamous Yohji campaign yet. We would see each other as often as we could, and we always talked about doing something together because I knew they love movement and theater. But for diferent reasons the opportunity would never come about. Then one day Inez called me when they were doing their frst campaign with
inez & vinOOdh in neW YOrk citY, june 2009 phOtOgraphY inez & vinOOdh
Makeup Tom Pecheux (Home Agency) Hair Christiaan
When it comes to describing the synergistic magic of Inez and Vinoodh’s process behind the camera, the photographers prefer to turn to their close friend and collaborator, famed dancer Stephen Galloway. The former principal dancer for the Ballet Frankfurt—and movement director for none other than Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones for 15 years—is one of the few individuals who often gets to insert himself into the duo’s creative process. Here, in his own words, he tells of the rhythm and rewards of working with two of fashion’s most original artists. patrik sandberg
Calvin Klein. I was working with the Ballet and living in Germany, and when they would have an idea we would collar on a photo shoot or something. This has now gone on for a long time. I have known them for about 20 years, but we have been kicking ass together for easily about 10. For me, one of the greatest gifts I’ve been able to receive is that I have had the pleasure of working with William Forsythe, Mick Jagger, and Inez and Vinoodh. I really do see it like that. I always think of them as artists frst, and I really respond to them, being an artist myself. I’m just amazed by their work and their curiosity, and all of the questions they pose as photographers. I always get excited working with Inez and Vinoodh because it’s like a very bizarre pas de trois. I’m trying to communicate between both of them and the model and myself. I almost feel like a live translator! I have to fgure out what Vinoodh is looking at, what Inez is seeing, and what they’re both thinking. And we never really talk about our collaboration much before we’re there. It’s all incredibly organic. I can’t liken working with them to anything else, except a masterful pas de trois. It’s about the rhythm, this furious kind of breath and excitement, and it’s never boring. It’s a crazy dance macabre situation, also because they’re both so smart about everything. Every photograph we take is often more than what it seems to be, because they make such incredible references to everything from dance to fne art to commercial art, and even to flm. One example is when we did their last Gucci campaign. It was 16 images of 16 diferent models, and each model was wearing the same thing in each image. We would reposition them in the same outft, and it ran over a period of six months. When they told me, I thought, How are we ever going to pull this of? Won’t people be tired of looking at all these girls in the same outft in every ad? But when they completed it, it was genius. That is the greatest feeling. stephen gaLLOWaY
megastar and mastermind
TROY caRTeR and ladY GaGa
With only three albums under her belt, Lady Gaga is already a household name. But unless you’re working in the businesses of music or social media, you might not be as familiar with Troy Carter, Gaga’s manager and the genius behind her media presence. V sat down to talk shop with the guy who helped Mother Monster get massive. patrik sandberg How did you originally meet and come to work with Lady Gaga? Troy Carter We were introduced by Vincent Herbert, who was her executive producer at her record label. You saw the energy when she walked in the room. She was very specifc about her vision, all of the music was there, and all she needed was someone to help her translate it to the rest of the world, which is where I came in. When did you frst realize the potential social media had to affect Gaga’s career? TC I think it developed because we were forced into it. We couldn’t get her record played on the radio and we couldn’t get the video on TV. YouTube and blogs were our platforms in the very beginning because the Internet was the only platform! Is it true that Lady Gaga’s next record, ArtPop, will be released as an app?
TC The album is going to be an app. It will also exist in CD and digital form, but the primary experience will be as an application. It will be built around the tablet, but will have a mobile version as well. How do you think the business of pop music will evolve? TC This is the best time to be in the music industry. As sub-Saharan Africa and China go completely mobile, you have people who’ve never had access to the music we offer all of a sudden able to access it. I think we can reach a lot more people now. You’re going to see a lot more friction points for independent artists disappear, but there will be more artists than ever. You’ll have to look at making money through a different lens. Artists are going to be giving away music in exchange for different things, like data or purchasing a ticket or a piece of merchandise. There will be new ways to monetize music, but it may not be the music itself. What is your most memorable experience of working with Gaga? Does anything particularly surreal stand out? TC I think—and I can say this because it just happened recently—it was seeing her have a casual conversation with the President about gay rights issues. When you think back to six years ago, this girl from New York walking in with ripped-up stockings, and now she’s having conversations with the President about serious issues—it’s a bit surreal. What is next for the Troy/Gaga think tank? TC I have no idea! We could have never predicted we’d be where we are right now, so I have no clue what the next fve years are going to look like, but I hope it gets even better.
lady gaga and troy carter at the inaugural ball in washington, d.c., january 2013
photography terry richardson
friends, philanthropists, innovators
The ongoing joke between Mayor Bloomberg and Diane von Furstenberg is that fashion is not his forte. (“I am a fashion designer’s nightmare,” he joked at a press conference in 2010. “He is not a fashionista by any means. He is properly dressed,” she has told The New York Times.) But don’t be mistaken, the man values the industry. Since taking ofce in January 2002, he’s been a groundbreaking force in Manhattan’s fashion scene. And in 2006, when von Furstenberg became president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), the two of them teamed up to bring fashion (and politics) to a wider audience. Their friendship is powerful, indeed. It was Bloomberg who stepped in to help keep the fashion shows at Bryant Park when the designers were being booted out and then advocated for Lincoln Center to be the new home of NYFW. Alongside DVF, he’s also been an integral part 1 62
Mayor BlooMBerg and diane von furstenBerg in new york city, noveMBer 2012
PhotograPhy LincoLn PiLcher
Photo assistant Stephanie Kessell Special thanks Souri Kim, Grace Cha, Jordan Stein
Mayor Michael BlooMBerg and diane von FurstenBerg
of the CFDA’s crackdown on designer knockofs. (For his hard work, he scooped up a CFDA award from the council’s board of directors back in 2008.) Their partnership continued with launching Fashion’s Night Out (alongside Anna Wintour), promoting manufacturing in NYC, and introducing a slew of initiatives to encourage growth and development in the industry, the latest of which was rolled out in February of last year. In return, DVF has lent her support to a number of Bloomberg’s causes. And where DVF goes, the fashion set follows. Perhaps most notably there was the Diller-von Furstenberg Foundation’s $20 million donation to the High Line in 2011—the largest sum ever donated to a New York City park. (Two previous donations from the Foundation to the park reportedly totaled $15 million.) It’s no coincidence, then, that the High Line has become the home to fashion gatherings, including a number of Calvin Klein fêtes, Tommy Hilfger’s Spring 2012 menswear show, and Coach’s summer party last May. On a less celebratory note, DVF and the CFDA (in partnership with Vogue) mobilized fashion’s hurricane relief eforts last November in the aftermath of Sandy, raising $1.7 million to beneft the Mayor’s Fund to Advance New York City and other organizations in the tristate area. DVF’s reign as CFDA president doesn’t end until at least 2014, but Bloomberg’s time in City Hall is coming to a close. We’re guessing he won’t be taking a runway bow when it comes to the fashion realm, though—you can bet this power duo will continue to make moves. And Mayor Bloomberg, for his part, will likely still be doing it in one of the same Paul Stuart suits and Brooks Brothers ties he’s been wearing since day one. Kristin tice studeman
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Inside the Other House of Style Kung Fu Fashion Fresh Off the Runway Supermodels Take TV by Storm L.A.’s Burgeoning Music Scene An Ode to Our Favorite Couples The Sleekest Accessories of the Season Plus the Best of Spring 2013 and Beyond! 16 5
“One day in early December, Inez & Vinoodh invited 11 of their favorite girls to their home to photograph them in the most coveted looks from the Spring/Summer 2013 collections. The party starts right here...� phOTOgraphy Inez & VInOODh faShIOn carlyne cerf De DuDzeele architecture and design by simrel achenbach of descience laboratories additional furnishings by sachs lindores 1 66
Briefs Agent ProvocAteur shoes MAnolo BlAhnik
Eniko Mihalik wEars Top and skirT NiNa Ricci shoEs MaNolo BlahNik
daria strokous wears dress Dior shoes Manolo Blahnik
SaSkia de brauw wearS Clothing Saint Laurent by hedi SLimane ShoeS manoLo bLahnik
jessica miller wears Dress Valentino
Kati nescher wears Dress Gucci
martha hunt wears Clothing and shoes Prada
LouLou robert wears Dress Marc Jacobs
khadija wears dress and shoes AlAĂ?A
bette franke wears top and skirt Miu Miu
doutzen kroes wears dress and boots Versace
miranda kerr wears dress and shoes Louis Vuitton makeUP aaron de meY (arT ParTner) hair James PeCis (d+V manaGemenT) modeLs saskia de BraUw, BeTTe Franke, doUTZen kroes, kaTi nesCher (dna), marTha hUnT, miranda kerr, JessiCa miLLer, LoULoU roBerT (imG), khadiJa (neXT), eniko mihaLik, daria sTrokoUs (women) MANICURE DIANA HARDEMAN (THE MAGNET AGENCY) LIGHTING DIRECTOR JODOKUS DRIESSEN DIGITAL TECHNICIAN BRIAN ANDERSON RETOUCHING BOX LTD PHOTO ASSISTANT JOE HUME STYLIST ASSISTANT KATE GRELLA MAKEUP ASSISTANTS FRANKIE BOYD AND MARIKO HIRANO HAIR ASSISTANTS KIYO IGARASHI, ERIC JAMIESON, HOLLY MILLS PRODUCTION BY THE COLLECTIVE SHIFT AND VLM STUDIO
Edita and Bianca wEar clothing Prada Sung Jin wEarS clothing (throughout) hiS own all BEltS (throughout) Sung Jin’S own
The eye travels East as top designers tackle kimono cuts with incredible ingenuity. Mario Testino captures their creations in action, and though each look easily stands on its own, it does take two to Tae Kwon Do phoTography Mario TEsTino fashion sarajanE hoarE 19 1
Liu Wen Wears Dress Gucci
Edita wEars Coat Fendi BriEfs wolFord
Edita wEars Coat and pants Etro Liu wEn wEars top and pants Max Mara
Bianca wears Jacket Miu Miu Briefs wolford
Edita wEars drEss Saint Laurent by Hedi SLimane
Liu Wen Wears Dress AlexAnder WAng
Edita wEars Clothing and ChokEr
Givenchy by RiccaRdo Tisci
Bianca wears Dress Anthony VAccArello
Bianca wears clothing Prada
Liu Wen Wears CLothing and sandaLs CÉline edita Wears CLothing BalenCiaga By niColas ghesquiÈre to see a video of this shoot go to vmagazine.Com makeup vaL garLand (streeters) hair sam mcknight (premier) modeLs edita viLkeviCiute (dna), BianCa BaLti (img), Liu Wen (mariLyn), sung Jin park (WiLheLmina) Manicure Trish LoMax (PreMier) DigiTaL Technician chrisTian hogsTeDT (r&D) PhoTo assisTanTs BenjaMin TieTge, ToMo inenaga, ansgar soLLMan sTyLisT assisTanTs eMiLy Mazur anD eMiLy aTTriLL MakeuP assisTanT Veronica MarTinez hair assisTanTs cynDia harVey, eaMon hughes, Marc raMos TaiLor PauL sTroTTon ProDucTion gawain rainey, aLice FerranTe, jack hoyLanD (10-4 inc.) ViDeograPher BaLThazar kLarwein reTouching r&D equiPMenT renTaL unique LighTing LocaTion sPring sTuDios, LonDon caTering kaTeThecook sPeciaL Thanks ohTa anD jkae BuDokwai
Bathed in a soft, cold LCD glow, supermodels Naomi Campbell and Lindsey Wixson ofer a high dose of fashion reality in the season’s kickiest sportswear. Tune in, zone out...but whatever you do, don’t touch that dial phoTography seBasTiaN faeNa fashioN juLia voN Boehm 20 4
Lindsey wears Jacket and Jeans Just Cavalli earrings Melinda Maria Bandana styList’s own
Naomi wears Top aNd jewelry
Balenciaga By nicolas ghesquiÈre
shorTs J Brand BelT sTylisT’s owN
Naomi wears swimsuit Michael Kors riNg (bottom) Melinda Maria riNg (top) cBd By charlotte Bjorlin delia
Lindsey wears Top and briefs Rochas earrings Melinda MaRia
Chain MinoR obsessions by Finn jewelRy neCkLaCe and bandana sTyLisT’s own
Manicure Cassandra Lamar FOR M.A.C (ARTISTS BY NEXT) Digital Technicians Denis Vlasov and Michele Cipriani Light Design Chris Bisagni Photo Assistants Carlos Ruiz and Alberto Maria Colombo Stylist Assistants Allison Bornstein, Clare Joan Byrne, Zoe Beltrano Production Helena Martel Retouching Smooch NYC Equipment Rental [TREC] Location Hotel Pennsylvania, New York Special Thanks Samuel Nuñez
Lindsey wears swimsuit DKNY Pants BLK DNM Chain MiNor oBsessioNs BY FiNN JeweLrY neCkLaCe and beLt styList’s own
Makeup for Naomi Renee Garnes FOR BOBBI BROWN (Artists by Next) Makeup for Lindsey Justine Purdue (Tim Howard) Hair For Naomi Cim Mahoney (The Wall Group) Hair For Lindsey Marcelino for Orlo Salon (L’Atelier NYC) Models Naomi Campbell and Lindsey Wixson (Marilyn NY)
When it comes to glamorous girls in killer collections, the works of famed fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez instantly spring to mind. Being a twin never felt so IN PHOTOGRAPHY SHARIF HAMZA FASHION TOM VAN DORPE 212
Ralph Lauren Collection Hanne Gaby wears Jacket, pants, baG
Ralph lauRen COlleCTIOn Hat phIlIp TReaCy fraGrance Chanel
Chanel
cora wears swimsuit Chanel Hat VintaGe baG Ralph lauRen COlleCTIOn bracelet alexIs BITTaR sandals TOm FORd
Chloé
Bette wears skirt Chloé COrset la Perla sCarf New York ViNtage sunglasses Dita Bag hermès JewelrY rePossi shOes Bottega VeNeta
Burberry Prorsum COnstanCe wears tOP anD skirt BurBerrY Prorsum rOBe la Perla JewelrY rePossi
Emporio Armani
Hanne gaby WearS top emporio ArmAni pantS GiorGio ArmAni Hat AmeriCAn AppArel clutcH AmAndA peArl earringS Alexis BiTTAr bracelet eddie BorGo
Giorgio Armani
marie WearS Jacket and pantS GiorGio ArmAni Hat rAlph lAuren ColleCTion clutcH emporio ArmAni earringS and belt (Worn aS necklace) eddie BorGo
Michael Kors
Bette wears sweater and sKIrt MiChael Kors Flower M&s sChMalberg
Céline
ConstanCe wears top Céline shorts MiChael Kors Flowers M&s sChMalberg
Christopher Kane
AlAnA WEARS JAcKEt And SKIRt CHRistOpHER KAnE BRA EREs
Hugo Boss
KASIA WEARS JAcKEt HUGO bOss ShIRt EqUipmEnt SlIp LA pERLA BRA And BRIEFS EREs
Valentino
kASiA WEARS cLothiNG valeNtiNo
Roberto Cavalli
ALANA WEARS JAckEt, ShiRt, pANtS RobeRto Cavalli coAt teRRa New YoRk
Diane von Furstenberg
ConstanCe wears top Diane von Furstenberg Briefs Prism ClutCh ruthie Davis JewelrY alexis bittar shoes manolo blahnik
Sonia Rykiel Cora wears Jumpsuit sonia rykiel top Prism earrings alexis bittar
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi CORA WEARS DRESS Preen by ThornTon bregazzi FuR J. Mendel BAg (HER RIgHT) ValenTino BRACELET AND BAg (HER LEFT) Kenzo NECkLACES alexis biTTar
Gucci
mARIE WEARS CLOTHINg gucci FuR J. Mendel CLuTCH boss hugo boss NECkLACES alexis biTTar BRACELET Kenzo
Calvin Klein Collection BETTE WEARS JACkET CaLvin KLein CoLLeCtion BODySuiT Le Sang BLeu BRiEfS La perLa BElT Saint Laurent BY HeDi SLiMane RiNGS Cartier
Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane
CONSTANCE WEARS DRESS AND hAT Saint Laurent BY HeDi SLiMane BODySuiT KiKi De MontparnaSSe GlOvES CaroLina aMato NECklACE Cartier
Dsquared
HANNE GAby WEARS JACKET AND pANTS DSquareD SHiRT new York Vintage SuNGlASSES mercura nYc GlovES carolina amato FloWER m&S SchmalBerg
Balmain
SAM WEARS JACKET AND SKiRT Balmain GlovES new York Vintage FloWER m&S SchmalBerg
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california dreamin’ Tamaryn
Musician/Artist, Aquarius
Current mood: Checked in Current soundtrack: The The, “This Is the Day” What are your most dueling characteristics? My indiference to accepting love and my total obsessive love for indiferent people Do you have any idols? Bobby Gillespie and Alan McGee What do you despise? Self-imposed cages What’s your favorite recent memory? Driving cross country on Route 66 in my little black convertible. Visiting Elvis’s grave. Having Leatherface paranoia in an abandoned Southern Baptist church at 3 am. Getting lost in a labyrinth in West Virginia and making it to New York just in time to bathe in confetti on New Year’s Eve What would you attempt that you’ve never tried? Making money
Bra Tamaryn’s own 228
As much a harbor for artists as a hallowed destination for would-be megastars, Los Angeles today is all about fusion. No wonder the new generation of underground hybrids are calling it home—and causing quite a stir photogrAphy hedi sLimANe
Geneva Jacuzzi
Entertainer/Enigma, Leo (Cancer cusp) Current mood: Forlorn Current soundtrack: Ariel Pink Rosenberg, my on-and-of boyfriend What are your most dueling characteristics? I’m a horrible lover and I cheat. I make music but I’m late for parties. I don’t believe in duality and I am a pathological liar. Sweet and sour How do you defne style? A bare ass, stripped of personality. Feminine products What do you despise? Rehab Describe what you’re working on currently. New plays and new music. “Mark of the Bongo Human Street Trash,” “Into the Demi-Diagonal Incinerating Cunt of the Encephalitic Troll Child,” “Bethelehem-Diaphram Dream Clown,” hence substituted for “The Platypus of Homosexual Romance,” “One Night Stains” Do you have any premonitions for the future? More mouse and cat cartoons
Clothing (throughout) Saint Laurent by Hedi SLimane
Alice Glass
Cult Icon/Singer, Crystal Castles, Virgo Current mood: None Current soundtrack: Darkthrone “Under a Funeral Moon” Do you have any idols? Allison Wolf, Joan Jett, Lesley Gore, Gangsta Boo What do you despise? Sexism, misogyny, homophobia, racists, windows that have been sealed shut What is your favorite thing about L.A.? Jupiter Keys from the band HEALTH What is your favorite recent memory? Waking up this morning and going back to sleep Describe what you’re working on currently. I’m on tour for our third record, (III)
T-shirT and necklace alice’s own
Actually Huizenga Pop Star/Director, Virgo
Current mood: Drunk Current soundtrack: Anthony Bourdain’s The Layover What are your most dueling characteristics? I’m directing people to take advantage of me. I’m in charge of everything and yet my image is about being a submissive pop angel. What do you despise? I’d like to be funny here, but truthfully, sexual discrimination. What is your favorite thing about L.A.? Rosedale Cemetery, founded in 1884. It’s one of my favorite cemeteries because it has pyramid-shaped crypts. I also love Jumbo’s Clown Room and Cheetahs, which are strip clubs. One day I want to have enough money to shower the strippers with at least 50 bucks at a time, with the fanning dollar method. What makes you proud? Selfshly I will say the album that I self-released, Actually by Actually, and all my videos. My art is my life and it will always fll me with the greatest pain and pleasure. Describe what you’re working on currently. VIKING ANGEL, my next album and short flm. The project will push the purity within me in order to get closer to the darkness of evil.
bra and Jewelry actually’s own
Mercedes Kilmer
Actress/Civil Servant, Scorpio
Current mood: Exhausted Current soundtrack: Flamin Groovies’ Rockfeld Sessions What are your most dueling characteristics? Probably chaos and order Do you have any idols? Bette Davis What do you despise? It’s difcult to think of anything I could despise out of context. Maybe wasted time What is your favorite thing about L.A.? The freeway as an American symbol, one of connection and isolation equally. I love this city so much it is difcult to pick one thing, that is about as structurally encompassing as I can get without saying the county land plot itself. What would you attempt that you’ve never tried? Kiss the Pope
Dress vintage Photo AssistAnts Rudolf BekkeR, MARio sAnchez, Mike loPez PRoduction YAnn RzePkA locAtion siRen studios, los Angeles cAteRing sAvouR this MoMent
Boychild
Performance Artist/Entity, Capricorn
Current mood: Calm Current soundtrack: Stretch 2 by Arca and Desert Strike by Fatima Al Qadiri What are your most dueling characteristics? Human and machine Do you have any idols? My friends, people brave enough to be themselves What is your favorite thing about L.A.? Taco Zone, my official Los Angeles diet Describe what you’re working on currently. Astral projection Do you have any premonitions for the future? The matrix. The future is the knowledge of our creation and existence now
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Whether siblings, best friends, collaborators, or couples, these faces from the felds of flm, fashion, art, and music defne what it means to be a match made in heaven photogRaphy philippe Vogelenzang FaShion BRandon MaxWell
Vladimir & Julia Restoin Roitfeld Art World Dealer/Curator and Fashion All-Star
Considering their sensational genes, it is not surprising that Vladimir and Julia Restoin Roitfeld have already established themselves as leaders in their own unique ways. “Growing up in a creative atmosphere, we tried to fnd our place in that world,” said Vladimir, 30, who has deftly navigated his career as an art dealer and curator by spearheading the trend of pop-up galleries in industrial spaces in New York, Paris, Milan, and London. It is that type of innovative thinking that has become the siblings’ collective calling card. According to Julia, they were taught never to follow trends and to always think for themselves. Embodying the French je ne sais quoi spirit with ease, the elder sister—after being trained by the design frm Baron and Baron, the photographer Craig McDean, and Visionaire—now serves as an art director for fashion houses such as Max Mara, Miu Miu, and Altuzarra. “I truly believe that if you carry yourself with confdence, and feel good about yourself, you can look good in anything,” she says. And she would know. Sporting immaculate style, both Vlad and Julia can often be seen with a trail of photographers following in their wake. The French-born, New York-based duo is constantly evolving; Vladimir has new exhibitions planned in New York and Italy, and Julia is publishing a style guide for mothers called Romy and the Bunnies, named after her young daughter. Expect to see plenty more of them in the time to come. To them, achievement is a way of life. KATE BRANCH
Vladimir wears suit and shirt Tom FoRd necklace his own Julia wears sweater NiColE millER makeup & grooming kristin gallegos for laura mercier (clm) hair nikki nelms 23 5
Ruby & Lily Aldridge Model Sisters
The Aldridge sisters were rather predisposed for fabulousness. Children of an English artist-illustrator father and a gorgeous Playboy bunny mum (back in the ’70s, when the mag had cachet), the L.A.-born beauties are totally magnetic, with respect to one another and the world around them. “We share the same quirky, goofy sense of humor,” says Lily, 27, the elder sibling, by six years. “It’s very natural and silly when we’re together, no matter how long we’ve been apart.” The Victoria’s Secret model, who is also a new mom, splits her time between New York and Nashville, where she resides with her husband, Kings of Leon front man Caleb Followill, and their six-month-old daughter, Dixie. Ever boisterous, Ruby has served as the face of Marc by Marc Jacobs and can be seen stomping the runways of Alexander Wang, Marc
Jacobs, and Louis Vuitton, among others. “I’m definitely more the free spirit,” she says with a smile. “Lily was brutally shy when we were kids, and I would talk to anyone. I live in the East Village and she lives in the West Village. That sums it up completely.” But whenever they meet in the middle, it’s a beautiful reunion. CHRISTOPHER BARNARD
FROM LEFT: Ruby wEaRs suiT STEllA McCARTNEy bRa PRADA shOEs CHRISTIAN lOuBOuTIN LiLy wEaRs suiT and shOEs lANvIN Ring hER Own This sPREad: MakEuP kRisTin gaLLEgOs FOR LauRa MERciER (cLM) haiR wEsLEy O’MEaRa FOR bangsTyLE (ThE waLL gROuP) Manicure casey HerMan for cHanel (Kate ryan inc)
Liberty Ross & Amanda Harlech Glamorous Kindred Spirits
Asked when they first became friends, Liberty Ross and Amanda Harlech both hesitate to specify a date. Their sisterlike synergy is not remotely disingenuous, it’s just that for these kindred spirits, their affinity feels timeless. They found each other in the rough-and-tumble fashion industry, at the altar of its high priest, Monsieur Lagerfeld. (And who wouldn’t be drawn together while basking in the soft glow of Chanel?) “I feel as though I have known Amanda forever, but perhaps that is just because I have always felt so at ease around her and oddly connected to her,” says Ross. “I suppose I got to really know her when I started working with Karl, when I was 19. I am very lucky to have her as a friend.” For her part, Harlech is equally effusive: “Liberty is part of where I came from as much as where I’m going,” she says. “Subtle, distilled like a perfume, she senses everything a beat before I do. I love the wisdom in the reach of her laugh, her canny all-seeing eye, her compassion and verve and dance. I think the same things move us—we can share without saying a word.” SARAH CRISTOBAL
FROM LEFT: LibERTy wEaRs DREss anD shOE ALexAndeR WAng aManDa wEaRs DREss CHAneL Ring hER Own
Tennessee Thomas & Alexa Chung Music Mavens with a Flair for Fashion
Initially it was a shared love of rock and roll that brought Alexa Chung and Tennessee Thomas together. They met some years ago, when Chung was frst auditioning to be a presenter at MTV and Thomas’s then band, The Like, was her inaugural interview. “And I got the job,” says Chung of their serendipitous encounter. They spent the subsequent years bonding during high-spirited evenings out in London, and eventually discovered “how inseparable we really are” after moving to New York a year and a half ago. “It was a long distance relationship before then,” jokes Thomas. Chung is now anchoring a new half-hour music show called Fuse News, but her days are not complete without checking in with her favorite Bunny (Thomas’s actual middle name). “We’re neighbors in the East Village and there are a few cafés that are equidistant from our apartments,” explains Thomas. “And when a day goes by and we don’t see each other…” “It’s just weird,” says Chung as if on cue, before adding, “Tennessee makes me laugh, because I think we’ve both got the same pun-brain, and quite often we have to try to beat each other to the same sentence.” SC
From leFt: tennessee wears sweater Reed KRaKoff Jeans expReSS shoes Valentino ribbon stylist’s own alexa wears sweater 3.1 phillip lim Jeans hudSon shoes ChRiStian louboutin Jewelry her own ribbon stylist’s own
Penn Badgley & Imogen Poots Crooning Costars
The actors Imogen Poots and Penn Badgley met for the frst time while flming Greetings from Tim Buckley, loosely based on the life of singer and guitarist Jef Buckley and slated to come out later this year. Poots, a veteran of the indie-flm circuit, plays the girlfriend of Badgley’s Jef. It’s a welcome change for the 26-yearold Penn, whose contract with Gossip Girl ended earlier this year. The flm marks a breakthrough not only career-wise, but personally too: “We both felt a huge change during the movie,” says Poots, 23, recalling the time they spent running around the streets of New York with their director, Dan Algrant. “We were sort of going through similar things, and we really grew to trust each other,” adds Badgley. The music-loving duo agrees that the biggest takeaway from the flm so far has been each other. “It really highlighted the importance and beauty in your costar,”
says Poots, who also has a role in Terrence Malick’s upcoming Knight of Cups. “I think of projects like boyfriends, in a bizarre kind of way.” Badgley concurs: “Well, it is a relationship.” KB
penn wears Jacket 7 For All MAnKind Jeans G-StAr chain dAvid YurMAn imogen wears Jacket CAlvin Klein Jeans HudSon Bra viCtoriA’S SeCret this spreaD: makeup anD grooming kristin gallegos for laura mercier (clm) hair wesley o’meara for Bangstyle (the wall group) manicure (thomas anD chung) casey herman for chanel (kate ryan inc) hair assistant remy lane moore
Devonté Hynes & Solange Knowles (Rhythm and) Soul Mates
Interviewed separately, friends and collaborators Solange a diverse audience of listeners who’d been desperate for sexy, Knowles and Devonté “Dev” Hynes still manage to fnish each fun, emotionally authentic R&B. “I trust her,” Dev says, simply. other’s sentences. “We met a few years ago. I was producing “So, yeah, it works! It’s always really, really smooth.” Theophilus London and she came in to record,” Dev begins, For her part, Solange is content to continue working with and Solange rounds out the anecdote, in perfect harmony: “I Hynes, whose vision she values so wholeheartedly that she gave remember hearing the track, and the music evolved so efort- him an unexpected lead cocredit on the record. “Collaborating lessly. The chemistry was extremely magical, and I think when- is extremely difcult,” she explains. “It can leave you in such ever you fll that energy and space, there is something so mag- a vulnerable place to actually open up and share these ideas. netic about it.” You can feel so extremely terrifed, and embarrassed almost. Soon after they met, Dev was cowriting songs with a crew Everything is very seamless, and we’ve never encountered any of diferent musicians for Solange’s new record, a follow-up to negative emotions—so it’s been really awesome.” PATRIK SANDBERG 2008’s doo-wop-infected Sol-Angel and the Hadley St. Dreams. Solange found his impulses so spot-on that she decided to Dev wears shirt AlExANDER WANG Pants MIchAEl KoRS make him a critical part of her evolving sound. “We were in socks FAlKE shoes chRISTIAN louBouTIN hat anD watch his own Santa Barbara with our buddies, and then she just asked me solange wears toP BAlENcIAGA By NIcolAS GhESquIÈRE to do the whole record with her,” Dev says. “I think it’s quite shorts JASoN Wu Bracelets EMPoRIo ARMANI shoes DRIES VAN NoTEN a chance she took.” And it was one that paid of. The duo’s True EP, released this MakeuP anD grooMing regina harris (nars cosMetics) hair nikki nelMs past winter, earned accolades from critics and instantly garnered MANICURE MAkI SAkAMoto foR ChANEl (kAtE RyAN INC)
Zosia Mamet & Jemima Kirke Girls Will Be Girls
Sitting down with the 20-something actresses Jemima Kirke and Zosia Mamet, who play cousins Jessa and Shoshanna on the awardwinning HBO show Girls, feels a bit like stepping onto a live audience taping of creator Lena Dunham’s set. The funny banter, the comedic timing, the strikingly open conversation—it’s not just acting! “We improv so much on the show, there are endless hours of us just being ridiculous,” says Mamet, recalling their frst working scene together, in which Jessa is unpacking her bohemian life in Shoshanna’s sterile Sex and the City–inspired apartment. “We had so much fun,” echoes Kirke, who just gave birth to her second child. “I just want more scenes with Zosia—even if it means she’s dressed up in a monkey suit.” (Thinking that’s not a half-bad idea, Kirke texts Dunham immediately.) Ofscreen they are closer than their characters—getting dinner, shooting the shit, giving each other tattoos…“Zosia likes the stick-and-poke, and I like to give them,” says Kirke. They also scour real estate listings, on the of chance that life imitates art and they end up cohabitating. “I’ll move in with my husband and two children and Zosia,” says Kirke. “And the dog that I desperately want…on the Lower East Side,” adds Mamet. “That’s a spin-of if I’ve ever heard one.” Dunham, take note. KB
from left: Zosia wears top Opening CeremOny skirt ArmAni exChAnge earrings her own Jemima wears shirt rAlph lAuren COlleCtiOn Bra her own makeup kristin gallegos for laura mercier (clm) hair wesley o’meara for Bangstyle (the wall group) hair assistant remy lane moore
Jasmine Tookes & Tobias Sorensen Pretty Young Things
Anyone who has been surfng Tumblr lately will be happy to know that yes, those endearing photos of the American-born stunner Jasmine Tookes, 22, and Danish darling Tobias Sorensen, 25, mean that they are indeed dating. Much like their blossoming careers, their young love is flled with good fortune. She is a Victoria’s Secret model who was catapulted into the fashion world after being photographed by Bruce Weber for Abercrombie & Fitch at the age of 14, and he has recently been featured in major campaigns opposite Dree Hemmingway and Lara Stone. Though Tookes’s thread of ancestry runs through Europe, Africa, Brazil, and the West Indies, her hometown is Huntington Beach, California, where Sorensen, who hails from Copenhagen, is always welcome. “He gets along so easily with my mom and my grandparents and my little sister. So, I like that,” she says. Each half of the duo swears the other is the goofall in the relationship, and they are keen to work together, both on and of set. “We have a charity we are working on,” says Sorensen, unwilling to divulge more of the matter. Leave it to these two gorgeous people to always leave you wanting more. KB
Jasmine wears Jacket Edun sweater REEd KRaKoff necklace and bra her own tobias wears t-shirt diEsEl Jeans PaigE makeup and grooming kristin gallegos for laura mercier (clm) hair wesley o’meara for bangstyle (the wall group) Manicure eri Handa for cHanel (atelier) Hair assistant reMy lane Moore
Jenna Lyons & Courtney Crangi Passionate Professionals
To see Jenna Lyons and Courtney Crangi interact is akin to watching two teenagers in love. During their first public photo shoot together they are giddy with knowing smiles and stolen kisses. And they’ve certainly earned their right to be happy. The New York Times recently anointed Lyons— who serves as the president of J.Crew, where she has worked for the past 22 years—as “the woman who dresses America,” and that type of press does not come without a fair amount of public fixation. The media was particularly intense last year, when she extracted herself from a marriage in order to live her life with Crangi. But having survived the storm, the statuesque superexec is now standing taller than ever. “For me the best thing is knowing that someone really has your back,” she says of her rock solid relationship. “Like no matter what happens she has my best interests at heart. I think there are a few moments in life where that actually happens, and that feels, like, completely true and real.” Courtney, who wears many hats in her role as business partner of her
brother Philip Crangi’s hipster-chic jewelry line, returns the sentiment: “I think the most amazing about Jenna, although there are many amazing things about her, is really her grace under pressure,” she says. “She’s just incredibly gracious at all times.” SC
from left: jenna wears shirt J. Crew jewelry her own Courtney wears shirt rag & Bone braCelet (top) gileS & Brother ring (on pinky) eva Fehren all other jewelry PhiliP Crangi to see behind-the-sCenes videos from this series, go to vmagazine.Com makeup kristin gallegos for laura merCier (Clm) hair nikki nelms maniCure gina edwards for Chanel (kate ryan inC) Set DeSign erin Swift (Kate ryan inc) Digital technicianS charleS lu, toto cullen, MarK J. DaviS Photo aSSiStantS Pavel woznicKi, DieDeriK De groot, JanneKe De Jong, fiona MaKKinK StyliSt aSSiStant hayley PiSaturo ProDuction aSSiStant allan Kent Set DeSign aSSiStant aDaM Santucci locationS MetroDaylight StuDioS, neo StuDioS
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Perfect Pairs
Lovers, siblings, and BFFs: Editor-at-Large Derek Blasberg provides personal snaps featuring his favorite sets of stylish people
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