VMAN 18

18

TerrY ricHArDsON

PHOTOGrAPHs NeW mODeL seArcH WiNNer LuKe BriGGs iN

summer 2010

A scANDiNAviAN summer

18

TerrY ricHArDsON

PHOTOGrAPHs NeW mODeL seArcH WiNNer micHAeL W iN

summer 2010

A scANDiNAviAN summer

Libra

introducing Twelve male zodiac signs Twelve individual sculptures Energy and charisma are at play in these powerful white sculptures. The exquisite figurines capture the special characteristics of the twelve astrological signs; each one enigmatic and magical in its own way. Explore your own sign within the universe of the zodiac.

Launch date: June 1st

www.royalcopenhagen.com/zodiacs

THE WAVE COLLECTION W ITH EDO PERIOD TSUBA, 19TH CENTURY

© D.YURMAN 2010

NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS CHICAGO LAS VEGAS BAL HARBOUR MANHASSET DALLAS AUSTIN HOUSTON ATLANTA BOSTON KING OF PRUSSIA ORLANDO WESTCHESTER TYSONS GALLERIA SOUTH COAST PLAZA DAVIDYURMAN.COM

635,1* 6800(5 LAS VEGAS NEW YORK MIAMI MANCHESTER PARIS BERLIN BEIJING HONG KONG TOKYO SHANGHAI Y-3.COM

Š 2010 adidas AG. adidas, the Globe, the 3-Stripes mark and Y-3 are registered trademarks of the adidas Group. Yohji Yamamoto is a registered trademark of Yohji Yamamoto, Inc.

591180_VMan_DNA_Dean_457x276_e.i1 1

25.3.2010 9:33:33 Uhr

591180_VMan_DNA_Dean_457x276_e.i2 2

25.3.2010 9:33:58 Uhr

Belvedere is a quality choice. Drinking responsibly is too. Belvedere Vodka 40% ALC./VOL. (80 PROOF) 100% neutral spirits distilled from rye grain. Š2010 Imported by MoÍt Hennessy USA, Inc., New York, NY.

T RU S T YO U R I N S T I N C T S N AT U R A L LY S M O O T H M A K E I T B E LV E F A C E B O O K . C O M / B E LV E D E R E VO D K A

'34)2,%+)2 JEWLMSR GETMXEP SJ 7GERHMREZME EYKYWX VIKMWXIV RS[ EX [[[ GSTIRLEKIRJEWLMSR[IIO GSQ

V MAN • Visuel Business Class / Corset - 457,2 x 276,225 mm • PPR • Q • Départ le 22/03 • Parution du 15/04/2010

AIRF_1003223_Corset_2SP_457_2x276_225.indd 1

Page de GAUCHE

22/03/10 11:39:16

HRU •

BAT

 : a lie-flat seat with massage function, refined cuisine and fine French wines, a relaxing atmosphere for peace and quiet

       .

www.air france.com

AIRF_1003223_Corset_2SP_457_2x276_225.indd 2

22/03/10 11:39:31

Page de DROITE

SWEDISH SWEDISH UNDE UNDE RWEAR RWEAR COLOURFUL COLOURFUL SINCE SINCE 1984 1984

BJORNBORG.COM

bruunsbazaar .com / shop.bruunsbazaar .com

BBSS2010_VMAN.indd 1

22/03/10 14:58:49

BBSS2010_VMAN.indd 2

22/03/10 14:59:00

THE LEADING DESIGN HOTEL COPENHAGEN OFFICIAL PARTNER HOTEL OF COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK & VMAN

3KRWR E\ 0DJQXV 5DJQYLG &KDPPRQ

­ -69 9,:,9=(;065: >>> :2;7,;90 *64

VMAN 18 Editor-in-Chief/ Creative Director

Contributing Editor/ Scandinavia

Stephen Gan

Thomas Hargreave

Editor

Advertising Directors

jacob brown

Giorgio Pace

gpace@visionaireworld.com Associate Editors

Jorge Garcia

Karin nelson Christopher Bartley

jgarcia@visionaireworld.com Advertising Manager

Managing Editor

Francine Wong

emma reeves

fwong@visionaireworld.com

Photo and Bookings Editor

Advertising Coordinator

KRISTINA KIM

Vicky Benites

vbenites@visionaireworld.com Assistant Bookings Editor EVELIEN JOOS

Financial Comptroller

Contributors Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin Terry Richardson Hedi Slimane Sebastian Faena Ellen von Unwerth Mattias Karlsson Benjamin Alexander Huseby Italo Zucchelli Josh Olins Mark Abrahams Schohaja Klaus Thymann Matthew Kristall Spencer Higgins Ben Weller Naomi Itkes Doug Inglish Benjamin Sturgill Cameron Krone Magnus Unnar Amanda de Cadenet Ken Miller Johan Anderberg T. Cole Rachel Anthony Kaufman Elliott David Jason Rowan Jared Abbot Frederik Bjerregaard Julie Cirelli Chad Pitman Robert Rydberg Dom Smith Moonspoon Saloon Hanna Liden John Scarisbrick Zara Zachrisson Elizabeth Heltoft Jesper Lindström

Sooraya Pariag

Executive Assistant/ Special Projects Editor

Production Director

Steven Chaiken

Melissa Scragg

Senior Fashion Editor

Distribution

Jay Massacret

David Renard

Fashion and Market Editors

Communications

Yuki James Catherine Newell-Hanson

Starworks

Special Projects Contributing Fashion Editors Nicola Formichetti Joe M c Kenna Olivier Rizzo

Fashion Editor-at-Large

Kyra Griffin Dominic Sidhu

Assistant to the Creative Director Kiko Buxó

Panos Yiapanis

VMAN FORD MODEL SEARCH WINNER luke, 18, west virginia sweatShirt Mads Nørgaard - COPENHAGEN f/w 2010

Skarsgård Cover Photography Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin Styling Michael Philouze Hair Christiaan for Kiehl’s Grooming Talia Shobrook (Community.nyc) Photo assistant Blair Madigan Stylist assistant Jorden Bickman Lighting technician Jodokus Driessen Digital technician Brian Anderson Studio manager Marc Kroop location Smashbox Studios Printing Box Suit, shirt, bow tie, pocket square, cuff links Tom Ford s/s 2010

model search cover Photography Terry Richardson Styling Mel Ottenberg Hair Jimmy Paul for Bumble and bumble (Susan Price) grooming Frank B. (The Wall Group) Models Michael w and Luke Briggs (Ford NY) Set design Andy Harman (The Wall Group) Photo assistants Brian Zeigler and David Swanson Stylist assistants Lester Garcia and Sonia Gallo Digital technician Glen Fabian Studio manager Seth Goldfarb Catering Ilili Retouching D touch special thanks Splashlight soho jacket Kopenhagen Fur F/W 2010

63397_022.indd

22

Assistant Comptroller Contributing Editors/Fashion Beat Bolliger clare richardson Stevie Westgarth Mel ottenberg Michael Philouze

Fashion Assistant NIKKI IGOL

Consulting Creative/ Design Direction

Farzana khan

Administrative Assistant Annie Hinshaw

Contributing Editor/ Entertainment Greg Krelenstein starworks

Contributing Style Editor Danica lo

Greg Foley

Art Directors Sandra kang Byron Kalet

Senior Fashion News and Special Projects Editor Derek Blasberg

Art Editor Senior Designer

Simon Castets

Stephanie Chao

Copy Editor Design

Traci Parks

Cian Browne jakob hedberg

Creative Imaging Consultant Pascal Dangin

Online Manager Ryan Dye

Marketing and Events Consultant Taylor Choi

Visionaire Cecilia Dean James Kaliardos

Special thanks Art Partner Giovanni Testino Amber Olson Neil Cooper Lindsey Steinberg The Collective Shift Jae Choi Brenda Brown Marc Kroop Ford Models Sam Doerfler Jesse Simon Blake Woods Emily Novak Total Management Katie Yu CLM Erick Ruales Heath Cannon Betsy Hammill Cale Harrison AFG Kelly Penford Bridget Harris Jed Root Will Shen Fred & Associates Rebecca McCubbin Management Artists Francesco Savi Deborah Sudak The Wall Group Gretchen Vater Art + Commerce Patrick Stretch Lindsay Thompson Sarah Smith Thomas Bonnouvrier Marie Hu Yann Rzepka Intrepid Anya Yiapanis Stephanie Chan Rep Limited Rachel Elliston George Miscamble Julian Watson Agency Julian Watson Michelle Lacey See Management Brent Smith Jack Studios Roy Schwalbach Ron Fillman Splashlight Studios Ahmad Larnes Corie Beardsley Sandbox Studios Phil Caraway Ilili Broadway East The Standard, New York Eva Kruse Anne Christine Persson Emilie Møller Fredrik Allan Madelaine Levvy Lotta Nilsson Anders Fransson Andreas Nilsson Mathias Lauridsen Adrian Sølberg Nicolai Haugaard Gustaf von Arbin Olivia Frølich Dreamworks Animation Artistic Cube Inc.

Thanks to Steven Binder

Interns Samantha Adler John Ciamillo Christian Escobar Martha Glass Hayley Koustis Olivia Kozlowski Martin Landgreve Molly Mamourian Laura Marciano Maryellen McGoldrick Alex O’Neill Karin öström Eduardo Ramirez Jasmine Rydell Eric Schlosberg Catherine Strassman Matthew Stutz Emily Torrans Silvia Velencoso Segura Suzanne Weinstock

3/31/10

9:45:13 AM

bra n d

CK J

trim

9 ” x 10.875”

log o

k /o

publication

V Man

se a s o n

s10

b l eed

+.25”

type

55% black

issue date

A p r i l 15, 2010

position

rhp

s a f et y

.125”

scale

100%

special instructions I m a g e m u s t p u l l e d o u t t o m e e t b l e e d r e q u i r m e n t s p r i o r t o p ro d u c t i o n.

approvals initials date

creative

production

studio

media

account

100 100 100 75 66 66 25 19 19

100

100 100 100 100 60 B

70 70

30 30

100 100 60

100 100

70 70

30 30

100 100 60

100 100

70 70

30 30

100 40

100 40

40 100

10 40 40

20 70 70

70 70 40

70 40 40

0000

3.1 2.2 2.2

10 7 7

50 40 40

100 90 75 50 25 10 3 70 40 40 40 70 40 40 70 40 70 40 40 40 70 40 40 100 40 100 100 40 30 3%

70 100 100 60 30

US

100 60

70

30

100 60

100

70

ISO 12647-7 Digital Control Strip 2007 c ou nt ry

A

Body white wash calvinkleinjeans.com

807070100

CRK VMan us4_15ckj rhp JV CRKVMAN415 APP3 175 LS PDF

CMYK

contents PROFILES

STOCKISTS

33 VMEN Scandinavia’s hottest talent invades America

A Child of the Jago www.achildofthejago.com

3.1 Phillip Lim www.31philliplim.com Acne www.acnestudios.com

40 SIX ARTISTS, ONE ROOF Welcome to the wildest spot in Copenhagen

Adam Kimmel www.adamkimmel.com Adam Selman www.adamselman.com Adidas www.adidas.com Agent Provocateur www.agentprovocateur.com

42

44

Cold as nice How fashion might save the world

Alexander Wang www.alexanderwang.com American Apparel www.americanapparel.net And_I www.and-i.net

WHERE VIDEOS ARE BORN Andreas Nilsson, Jonas Åkerlund, and Johan Renck make video sing

Ann–Sofie Back www.annsofieback.com Asger Juel Larsen www.asgerjuellarsen.blogspot.com Ashish www.ashish.co.uk Atelier 11 www.atelierelf.com Aveda www.aveda.com

46 ON THE ORIGIN OF OPERA Cult electro rockers the Knife score an opera 47 ESCAPE FROM NEW YORK What happens when a Manhattanite moves to the Swedish forest

Barbro Scott www.barbroscott.se Ben Sherman www.benshermanusa.com Benoît Missolin www.benoitmissolin.com Bjørg www.bjorgjewellery.com Björn Borg www.bjornborg.com Bliss Lau www.blisslau.com Boss Black www.hugoboss.com Brioni www.brioni.com

48 DRINK LIKE A VIKING Get a taste of vodka and aquavit

Bruuns Bazaar www.bruunsbazaar.com Burberry www.burberry.com

By Malene Birger www.bymalenebirger.com Calvin Klein www.calvinklein.com

49 TRIPLE THREAT/JUICE HEAD Model Mathias Lauridsen shows off his talents; perfumer Ben Gorham scents off

Cheap Monday www.cheapmonday.com Chris Habana www.chrishabana.com Christian Dior www.dior.com Church’s www.church-footwear.com

50 NORTHERN STARS RISING Scandinavian artists have never been more now VMAN FORD MODEL SEArCH WINNER michael w, 19, florida Vest Acne Shirt Sand F/W 2010 Jeans vintage from Screaming Mimi’s Watch David Yurman

Clarks www.clarks.com Comme des Garçons www.doverstreetmarket.com Converse by John Varvatos www.converse.com Cutler and Gross www.cutlerandgross.com D&G www.dolcegabbana.com

53

STYLE HOT IN HOLLYWOOD Meet this summer’s new style idols: Kellan Lutz, Matthew Bomer, Noah Mills, Xavier Samuel, and Ryan Kwanten

David Yurman www.davidyurman.com Day Birger et Mikkelsen www.day.dk Designers Remix www.designersremix.com Diesel www.diesel.com Dolce & Gabbana www.dolcegabbana.com Dries Van Noten www.driesvannoten.be Eddie Borgo www.eddieborgo.com Ermenegildo Zegna www.zegna.com

58 VMAN NEWS All the buzz within the worlds of fashion, accessories, music, denim, fur, athletics, and art

Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair www.shoerepair.se Filippa K www.filippa-k.com Gareth Pugh www.garethpugh.net Georg Jensen www.georgjensen.com Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci www.givenchy.com

66 COVETED MATTER Time to dress up your beach-ready bod

Gucci www.gucci.com Guess www.guess.com H&M www.hm.com

68 FALL’S FINEST Josh Peskowitz reports from fashion’s front rows

Happy Socks www.happysocks.com Heather Huey www.heatherhuey.com Hermès www.hermes.com Hope www.hope-sthlm.com

74 SCENE STEALERS Photographer Shohaja captures the backstage moment

Hugo Boss www.hugoboss.com Hummel www.hummel.dk Ines Gloves www.inesgloves.com J. Lindeberg www.jlindeberg.com J.W. Anderson www.j-w-anderson.com James Long www.jameslonguk.com Jean–Michel Cazabat www.jeanmichelcazabat.com Jil Sander www.jilsander.com

63397_024.indd 24

3/27/10 7:33:20 AM

228.6x276.3_G0A34002:228.6x276.3_G0A34002

18.3.2010

16:42

Page 1

Piaget Manufacture movement 880P Mechanical self-winding chronograph Flyback, dual time 100 meter water resistant Titanium, sapphire case-back Rubber strap

www.piagetpolo.com

contents THE COVERS

STOCKISTS

80 TRUE BLOODED STAR Swedish actor Alexander Skarsgård is this summer’s hot commodity

BY INEZ VAN LAMSWEERDE & VINOODH MATADIN

John Varvatos www.johnvarvatos.com Katie Eary www.katieeary.co.uk Kopenhagen Fur www.kopenhagenfur.com Ksubi www.ksubi.com Laitinen www.laitinencollection.com Lanvin www.lanvin.com Les Hommes www.leshommesfashion.com

148 IN FOR THE WIN Meet the winners of the new VMAN FORD Model Search

BY TERRY RICHARDSON

Lomography www.lomography.com Louis Vuitton www.vuitton.com Mads Nørgaard – Copenhagen www.madsnorgaard.com Manolo Blahnik www.manoloblahnik.com Marc Jacobs www.marcjacobs.com Maria Cornejo www.zeromariacornejo.com Mawi www.mawi.co.uk

FASHION

Meadham Kirchhoff www.meadhamkirchhoff.com Mercura NYC www.mercuranyc.com

90 DISCREET CHARM

BY SEBASTIAN FAENA 98 ONCE UPON A TIME

BY BENJAMIN ALEXANDER HUSEBY

Miu Miu www.miumiu.com Motorcycle Federation www.motorcyclefederation.com New Balance www.newbalance.com Nikolaj d’Étoiles www.nikolajdetoiles.com Oliver Peoples www.oliverpeoples.com Osklen www.osklen.com Paul Smith www.paulsmith.co.uk

106 YOUTH IN REVOLT

BY HEDI SLIMANE 120 SHREK OF A GUY

BY ELLEN VON UNWERTH

Peak Performance www.peakperformance.com Philip Treacy www.philiptreacy.co.uk Pologeorgis www.pologeorgis.com Prada www.prada.com Pringle of Scotland www.pringlescotland.com Raf Simons www.rafsimons.com Raf Simons for Fred Perry www.fredperry.com

130 SHAPE OF THE FUTURE

BY JOSH OLINS

VMAN FORD MODEL SEARCH FINALIST NICHOLAS, 17, NEVADA T-shirt Dries Van Noten F/W 2010 Watch David Yurman

138 SWEDE AND VICIOUS

BY MOONSPOON SALOON

Rag & Bone www.rag-bone.com Ralph Lauren www.ralphlauren.com Redken www.redken.com Rein Vollenga www.reinvollenga.blogspot.com Rick Owens www.rickowens.eu Rogues Gallery www.roguesgallery.com Ron Dorff www.rondorff.com Rufskin www.rufskin.com Salvatore Ferragamo www.salvatoreferragamo.it Sand www.sand.dk Screaming Mimi’s www.screamingmimis.com Selima Optique www.selimaoptique.com Shamballa Jewels www.shamballajewels.com Super Sunglasses www.retrosuperfuture.com Swatch www.swatch.com Ted Muehling www.tedmuehling.com The Leather man www.theleatherman.com The Local Firm www.thelocalfirm.com The Beer Belt www.thebeerbelt.com Tiger of Sweden www.tigerofsweden.com Tissot www.tissot.ch Tom Ford www.tomford.com Topman www.topman.com Topshop www.topshop.com Versace www.versace.com Vivienne Westwood www.viviennewestwood.com Wesc www.wesc.com Whyred www.whyred.se Wolford www.wolford.com Woolrich Woolen Mills www.woolrichwoolenmills.com Y-3 www.y-3store.com Yves Saint Laurent www.ysl.com Zinka www.zinka.com

63397_026.indd 26

3/27/10 7:34:18 AM

Photo Jimmy Nelson 15.00 ct Black Diamonds & 18K White Gold

Available at | Harrods Fine Jewellery and Watch Room | | Barneys New York | Neiman Marcus | Colette Paris | For more retailers visit www.shamballajewels.com

Vman_ShamballaJewels_April2010.indd 1

2010-03-25 16.57

foreword

VMAN FORD MODEL SEARCH FINALIST Ford, 18, kentucky Shirt Adam Kimmel f/w 2010 T-shirt (customized by stylist) Hope F/W 2010 Sweatpants Topman Design F/W 2010 Watch Swatch

63397_028.indd 28

For the better part of a year we’ve been jetting around Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, and Sweden creating this… our Scandinavian Issue. Devoting an entire magazine to one region means striking a balance. It should feel like an adventure: at VMAN we don’t travel as tourists. We eat, drink, party, and shop like we live there. And yet — a magazine must be relevant to its readers at home, never too esoteric. As you’ll see, nothing could be more relevant to what’s happening in America right now than the creative energy to be found coming out of the Nordic countries.

Swedish actor Alexander Skarsgård perfectly embodies this idea, particularly as photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Frankly we’d have him on this cover Scandinavian or not. Out of nowhere he’s emerged as Hollywood’s new, young It-actor; he’s got gravitas; and he’s the star of phenomenon series True Blood. It’s the show of the summer, and like so many from HBO, it seems as culturally important to us as any Oscar-ready silver-screen production.

Elsewhere in the issue we stumble upon electro-operas, art collectives, new genres of rock, young actors about to blow up, and legendary music video directors — all from the North.

Plus a few Hollywood guys from here at home who are quickly becoming style icons.

There’s even some politics. Last November the world and its most powerful leaders turned their attention toward Copenhagen for the international climate summit. The Scandinavian fashion industry was there to make sure the world’s designers did their part.

Turns out Sweden is the world’s third biggest producer of music, so we invited the Danish fashion and art collective Moonspoon Saloon to create portraits of Sweden’s biggest rock stars.

Meanwhile, in Denmark a renaissance of sorts is taking place. Photographer Hedi Slimane travels there to discover the country’s coming youthquake.

When it comes to the fashion, this issue gives you lots of summer gear up front (and on those bands and Danish youth), but also offers plenty of Fall preview to whet your shopping appetite.

Sebastian Faena captures elegant couples wearing his-and-her looks from some of Fall’s best collections. Benjamin Alexander Huseby takes a bit of inspiration from Hans Christian Andersen to transport two of Denmark’s biggest supermodels into a realm of fantasy. Ellen von Unwerth gets feisty with Shrek, summer’s biggest animated star.

Josh Olins works with Italo Zucchelli to explore Fall’s futuristic shapes.

And finally, on our other cover, Terry Richardson shoots the finalists and winners of the latest VMAN Ford Model Search. All four of them are American, as it turns out. But despite the warm weather, we dressed them in a bit of Danish fur. Get it? It’s a visual pun.

Welcome to our Scandinavian Summer. jacob brown

4/5/10 7:11:51 AM

Christian wears Moonlight Blossom Leaf Necklace in Sterling Silver Henning Koppel 317 Chronograph Stainless Steel Watch with quartz movement with black calfskin strap Moonlight Blossom Ring in Sterling Silver with Black Onyx

yulia wears Moonlight Blossom Necklace 15 in Sterling silver with black onyx

63397_029_031.indd 29

4/5/10 7:20:54 AM

yulia wears Daisy Ring in Black Enamel and Daisy Ring in White Enamel Reversible black and white Enamel and Sterling Silver Daisy Sautoir Necklaces Reversible White Enamel and Sterling Silver Daisy chain bracelets White gold and diamond Magic bracelet

christian wears Henning Koppel Cross

63397_029_031.indd 30

4/5/10 7:21:14 AM

for vman

63397_029_031.indd 31

4/5/10 7:21:33 AM

60 THOMPSON 6 COLUMBUS GILD HALL THOMPSON SMYTH ROOSEVELT THOMPSON DONOVAN HOUSE SAX SOHO

COLUMBUS CIRCLE

WALL STREET

LOWER EAST SIDE

TRIBECA

HOLLYWOOD

BEVERLY HILLS

WASHINGTON DC

CHICAGO

THOMPSON TORONTO

PROFILES david boyd His band New Politics plays normal indie-rock fare, except for all the beat-boxing and break-dancing

Grooming Rebecca Plymate for Davines (See Management) Photo assistant Christopher Artz Location K Studio

Despite what your parents might have told you, sometimes the path to success is only reachable through absurd risk and some metaphorical dice-rolling — particularly if you happen to make rock music. Such is the way that New Politics, Brooklyn’s best and most hyperactive new band, came to land a record deal. The three band members — David Boyd, Søren H, and Poul Amaliel — originally hail from Copenhagen, but after unexpectedly winning a contest hosted by Danish National Radio, the band packed their bags and made the leap to New York City.

“It is kind of wild and crazy, but sometimes you just have to be a little drastic,” says Boyd, the vocalist. “It’s the same way we approach pretty much everything.” Wild and crazy would be fitting descriptors of New Politics’ music as well — a spastic amalgam of pogo-friendly punk pop that when played live often results in dancing, broken gear, and occasional bloodshed. “We go nuts when we play live,” adds Boyd. “We make sure that it remains fun for us. Sometimes the less seriously you take things the more successful they actually become. Life is weird like that.” T. Cole Rachel PhotographY Cameron Krone StyliNG Yuki James Jacket J. Lindeberg S/S 2010 Tank D&G S/S 2010 Pants Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2010 belt maison martin margiela Ring Bjørg BraceletS Shamballa Jewels Sneakers Y-3 S/S 2010 NEW POLITICS’ debut ALBUM IS OUT IN SUMMER 2010 FROM RCA REcords. myspace.com/newpoliticsrock

33

63397_033.indd 33

3/31/10 10:04:57 AM

ALlAN HYDE His character on True Blood has an intense cult following — and that’s all it took to make this Dane a boldface name Allan Hyde may play a 2,000-year-old vampire on HBO’s hit series True Blood, but the 20-year-old Danish actor is very much a newbie when it comes to his life in Hollywood.

“I came from having everything sorted out in Copenhagen,” he says. “Here, my mom is explaining to me over Skype how to wash my floors.”

Currently based in West Hollywood, the young heartthrob is navigating the tricky worlds of stardom, Los Angeles, and living on his own. “It’s a big culture shock,” he admits.

“I used to ride my bike everywhere, but now I can’t because I’m afraid I’m going to get killed.”

Such fears might sound surprising coming from Hyde, whose intense vampire sheriff Godric crushes rivals twice his muscle-weight and commands a room with a whisper.

“It’s all about the calmness,” explains Hyde.

Back in Denmark, Hyde trained doing amateur theater — he fondly remembers a youth musical production of The Ugly Duckling — and moved up to television and film roles.

Looking forward, he’d love to do musicals and make movies with the likes of Gus Van Sant, Shane Meadows, and Martin Scorsese (Goodfellas is a personal favorite).

Vampires, however, were never on his mind. “We don’t have vampire shows in Denmark,” he says. “We don’t have the budgets.” Anthony Kaufman

Hair Louise Moon for Redken (Aim Artists) Photo assistants Magda Wosinska and Maxfield Hegedus Retouching Anna Bolek (Wet Noodles)

vmen

Photography Doug Inglish Styling Benjamin Sturgill Jacket Versace S/S 2010 Shirt Raf Simons for Fred Perry S/S 2010 Fragrance Versace Pour Homme

34

63397_034.indd 34

3/25/10 7:26:09 PM

AT S EL IM A O P T IQ U E - S O H O N Y - 5 9 W O OS T ER S T R EE T

GUSTAf McMAHON

Hair Tomo Jidai for Shu Uemura Art of Hair (Streeters U.k.) Grooming Hiromi Ueda (Julian Watson Agency) Photo assistants AJ Newman and Jamie Hawkesworth Digital Imaging Spring Digital Location Spring Studios, London

vmen

As lead singer of the band Animal garden therapy, he’s got Stockholm swooning. Just don’t ask about his day job “I’d rather slip / slip and stumble. I’d rather be killed / killed than be humble,” sings 21-year-old Gustaf McMahon, lead singer of Stockholm gypsy garage band Animal Garden Therapy.

It’s a telling phrase for McMahon, who’s semi-abandoned his former career as a model — he’s scored campaigns for Acne and Paul & Joe; and walked for the likes of Louis Vuitton, Thierry Mugler, and Bottega Veneta — to focus on his band, which features Swedish songstress Lykke Li’s brother Zacke on drums.

“If someone wants to pay me to stand somewhere or walk somewhere I’ll do it, but I’m over the model life,” says McMahon. “In modeling, there’s no real satisfaction, but at least with music you’re producing something.”

McMahon’s deep, quavering voice has an I’m-singingso-hard-I’d-be-breaking-if-I-wasn’t-already-broken quality, a fierce fragility reminiscent of some of our greatest rock gods. And with an EP in the works, McMahon will soon be proving his strength beyond the world of modeling. Elliot David Photography Ben Weller Styling Naomi Itkes All clothing Day Birger et Mikkelsen S/S 2010

36

63397_036.indd 36

3/25/10 7:28:04 PM

2010

We A c t i v i s t D E M O O F S T E E D L O R D SHOT BY C H E RY L D U N N w w w. w e s c . c o m

VMEN

ERIK HASSLE The infamous Sunset Strip is a far cry from the tiny village in Sweden where wild-haired singer-songwriter and pop impresario Erik Hassle spent his formative years. “Coming from a country where the sun was absent for most of my lifetime, California is pretty attractive,” he says. L.A. is but one of many touring destinations for Hassle, who, at 21, has managed to woo pop-music lovers all over the world with his particular brand of airtight songwriting and sweeping, soulful vocals. The urgency of Hassle’s album Pieces might sound like the work of a lovelorn urbanite, but the singer insists that the wild romance in his music springs from much simpler sources.

“My parents were fucking crazy people,” he says. “They built a little venue in our back garden where all of their hippie musician friends — and our entire village, pretty much — could come and drink and play music and have sex in the bushes. Every now and then my mother would call me onstage to sing songs for everyone, which is how I learned to entertain people. After you spend enough time singing songs for drunk people in a garden, the rest of the world doesn’t seem all that crazy.” T. Cole Rachel PhotographY Cameron Krone StylING Yuki James Tank Y-3 S/S 2010 Jeans Acne S/S 2010 On hair, Davines Defining Texturizer

Grooming Rebecca Plymate for Davines (See Management) Photo assistant Christopher Arzt Location K Studio

This young folksinger is pegged as the next big thing. If you can tear your eyes off his crazy hair for half a second, you’ll see why

38

63397_038.indd 38

4/1/10 3:24:58 PM

art

Henrik Vibskov’s studio is full of photos from his shows, including these from the “Big Wet Shiny Boobies” and “Human Laundry Service” collections

Designer Henrik Vibskov and artist Andreas Emenius

6 artists, 1 roof

Design duo Pia de Arce and Prisca Vilsbøl

A laser-cut piece from the Vilsbøl de Arce collection

Meet six of Copenhagen’s wildest and wildly influential citizens “We call this place The Mad House,” says Pia de Arce. A quick visit to the near-derelict four-story building at 69 Vesterbo in the center of Copenhagen, and it’s easy to see why.

As half of fashion label Vilsbøl de Arce, Pia de Arce spends her days with partner Prisca Vilsbøl designing outfits with crazy, roboto shoulders and freaky, distorted silhouettes— distorted to the point that Lady Gaga wears them all the time. On another floor, the tall, lanky, and scruffily bearded fashion designer Henrik Vibskov can be found letting loose his unpredictable imagination. “Everyone here follows their ideas, alone or together, and then works out in which way they should come to life. That’s what we have in common,” he explains in a faintly tripped-out tone. “People here don’t think about rules.”

That doesn’t mean they don’t accomplish anything. Vibskov sells his clothes at places like Colette and Seven New York, and has put on exhibitions at PS1, Palais de Tokyo, and ICA. He also makes music with frequent Mad House visitor Anders Trentemøller—himself a major player on the international remix scene. This year Trentemøller was nominated for an American Grammy for his version of Franz Ferdinand’s “No You Girls.”

A floor up, their friend Julien De Smedt (a former Rem Koolhaas protégé) uses his space to dream big. He recently transformed a local dock house into a skate park. A ski jump stadium of his design just opened in Oslo. “Collective thinking is definitely in the air. The modes of communications are plural and expanding,” says De Smedt, sounding vaguely like Vibskov. ”Our society today is about exchange of ideas, collaboration, discovery.”

It’s actually De Smedt who set the madness in motion a few years ago when he invited Vibskov to move in and set up shop after an eviction. Collaborators like photographer Nikolaj Holm Møller and artist Andreas Emenius followed. De Smedt calls it a wonderful accident. “There was never any intention to create some arty fashion meets architecture pinnacle of creativity—or whatever you call all this,” he says. “It just happened.”

Studio supplies

Models by Julien De Smedt

Architect Julien De Smedt and photographer Nikolaj Holm Møller

Frederik Bjerregaard photography Elizabeth Heltoft

40

63397_040.indd 40

3/31/10 10:04:22 AM

Good Morning, Midnight

UTC EXTREME BLACK II, timepiece Nยบ 197 sjoosandstrom.com

climate

COLD AS NICE THE COPENHAGEN SUMMIT MAY HAVE FAILED TO ENACT A CLIMATE CONTROL REGIME WITH ANY TEETH, BUT THE FASHION INDUSTRY SNATCHed SUCCESS FROM THE JAWS OF DEFEAT Everyone wondered, Which country will save the world?

When the Copenhagen climate summit opened this past winter, it was icicles-forming-on-your-nose cold and our expectations knew no bounds. Armies of fat diplomats, oddly dressed prime ministers, stuffed polar bears, and activists of every stripe clamored for attention.

Twelve days later, the answer: no country. Of course we already knew this.

Remember 2008, the year of China’s ascension, the moment when, with its hosting of the Olympics, the country would join the coalition of modern states? No such luck. Russia invaded Georgia on the day of the opening ceremony, and the U.S. set the world on fire with the loudest financial bust in a century. And then elected a Black president—take that!

For those who didn’t make it to Denmark last November, the conference negotiations went something like this: every country in attendance agreed to prevent global warming from exceeding pre-industrial levels by more than two degrees Celsius. Then, most of the major powers failed to agree on the concrete restrictions needed to meet that goal. And so the restrictions were not adopted.

Pundits have tried to parse the machinations. China procrastinated in an attempt to run out the clock and blame the West. Barack Obama allegedly crashed a “secret” meeting between India, Brazil, South Africa, and China to up the drama. Europeans, well, they carried on a bit like they still ran the world.

Truth be told, no new rules or rulers materialized.

One thing’s for sure: Scandinavians have never ruled the world (medieval Viking adventurism aside) and probably never will. They can sometimes be faulted for an idealistic (even smug) approach to world affairs. Nordic diplomats often behave like Massachusetts voters did in the early ’70s—the only state that didn’t vote for Richard Nixon.

“Don’t blame us.”

Sometimes, though, that lack of hard hegemony leads to greater influence through soft power. Chief executive of the Danish Fashion Institute Eva Kruse notes that what the Nordic countries really share (aside from smugness) is “the basic principle of behaving nicely.”

Thus, Kruse—along with her Swedish, Finnish, Norwegian, and Icelandic (yes, that country still exists) counterparts— has launched a project with the purpose of establishing environmental sustainability within first the Scandinavian, and then the international fashion industry.

The Nordic Initiative Clean and Ethical, or NICE as the organization is fittingly known, takes advantage of the global Scandinavian brand. “We are known for our socially responsible business practices,” says Kruse. “So this project coheres very well; it takes advantage of the values and image our region already possesses.”

On December 9, 2009, while the world’s leaders duked it out in a bunker near the Copenhagen airport, key fashion players—including Julie Gilhart of Barneys New York, Laurent Claquin of Gucci Group, Fern Malis of IMG Fashion/New York Fashion Week, Ann-Sofie Johansson of H&M, and Marjorie Yang of Hong Kong’s Esquel Group—gathered at the Royal Opera to decide what a sustainable fashion industry would look like. And they nailed down a written answer.

But things didn’t end there. A fashion exhibition called “Eco Chic” is about to hit New York after stops in Belgrade, Minsk, Kiev, Riga, Istanbul, and, most recently, Berlin. The exhibition, set to open at Scandinavia House on May 5, showcases fashion designers “who take an environmentally friendly and ethical approach to their work, without sacrificing style.”

Scandinavian fashion is already in the limelight, but Kruse hopes to create a new roster of “sustainable businesses with a strong position globally,” and use that roster to sway the world. By creating a real ecologically based alliance, she explains, “Scandinavian brands can hit a true critical mass—one that actually makes a difference in terms of influencing the industry’s carbon footprint.” Definitely sounds nice. Johan Anderberg Theodul Glacier in Zermatt, Switzerland, September 2009 Photography Klaus Thymann/Project-Pressure.org

Johan Anderberg has covered business and politics for Dagens Næringsliv and Dagens Nyheter, and served as the New York correspondent for Sydsvenskan. He’ll soon be joining Dow Jones Newswire’s Stockholm bureau

42

63397_042.indd 42

4/5/10 8:33:32 AM

video

New Order, “Krafty,” dir. by Johan Renck

The Knife, “Pass This On,” dir. by Johan Renck

Lady Gaga, “Telephone” (featuring Beyoncé), dir. by Jonas Åkerlund

WHERE VIDEOS ARE BORN Why is pretty much every cool music video in the world made in Sweden? Because of guys like Johan Renck, Jonas Åkerlund, and Andreas Nilsson

Growing up together in the ’70s and ’80s, Jonas Åkerlund and Johan Renck bonded over music. They didn’t like the same music. Renck was into pop, eventually recording an international hit under the name Stakka Bo; Åkerlund played drums for the groundbreaking black-metal band

Bathory. But those early experiences influenced their parallel careers.

Between the two of them, Renck and Åkerlund have created some of the most influential music videos, with artists like Madonna, Lady Gaga, New Order, Peter Bjorn and John, Bat for Lashes, Robbie Williams, and Jennifer Lopez. They’ve also influenced a later wave of Swedish music video directors, most notably Andreas Nilsson, best known for his work with the Knife, Fever Ray, and most recently MGMT. It’s a bit hard to explain why so many of the world’s coolest videos have come out of tiny Sweden. It’s

as if Spike Jonze, Chris Cunningham, and Michel Gondry all turned out to be from some small town in Idaho. It can’t just be random, can it?

In part the answer lies in the fact that Nilsson, Renck, and Åkerlund—and, for that matter, most Swedes—played in bands when they were young. “When I grew up every kid in school had a chance to learn how to play an instrument, or several instruments,” Nilsson recalls. “There is a program sponsored by the government that invests in music teachers and instruments for kids.” Without intending to, the Swedish government paved the way for global pop domination. The

44

63397_044_045.indd 44

3/31/10 11:57:26 AM

MGMT, “Flash Delirium,” dir. by Andreas Nilsson Lady Gaga, “Paparazzi,” dir. by Jonas Åkerlund

Fever Ray, “If I Had a Heart,” dir. by Andreas Nilsson

country’s music scene remains tightly knit, and after a few years jamming in basements, the generation that grew up under the tyrannical rule of Abba injected a jolt of weirdness into the mainstream musical landscape. Åkerlund most recently worked on the now ubiquitous video for the Lady Gaga-Beyoncé duet—a video that, at more than nine minutes long, qualifies as a short film. But even with a twenty-plus-year career, he’s dismissive of the idea that he’s an auteur with an overwhelmingly distinctive style. “What makes filmmaking unique is that you have to listen to so many other people,” he says. “You wouldn’t buy a Damien Hirst and tell him to change blue to green, but as a filmmaker you put up with that all of the time.” Renck concurs, dryly observing that as a video director, “you are always aware that you’re working for someone.”

“To me, it’s very important to have a close communication with the artist,” Nilsson says. “When that synergy works, the consequence can be that the artist becomes famous, but I’m even more happy with content that comes from the collective effort, with layers you could never predict.”

63397_044_045.indd 45

The spirit of collaboration (and of catering to a client) is one reason all three directors have explored—and revolutionized—such a diverse range of styles, from trippy through grimy to glam, using pretty much every trick a director can try, including documentary realism, CGI, animation, and puppets.

Asked if there is a common “Swedish style” of filmmaking, all three directors are evasive. “I try to see every new project through the eyes of the project itself,” Nilsson suggests. Renck agrees that his interactions with the artists go a long way toward determining the final style of the video. “It’s all about the process of translating [their] psychology or emotions into something concrete that can be experienced by others.”

Yet a certain common quality does exist. Call it “surreal realism,” a kind of earthy, almost grubby surrealism that pops up in all of the directors’ work, whether it’s Åkerlund’s indie opus Spun, or Renck’s work on the TV show Breaking Bad, or even Nilsson’s “Hyperize” commercial for Nike. “It is always interesting to set up something that’s rubbing shoulders with reality, then throw a more surreal event in

to elevate the emotional outcome,” Renck says. “Or you can do the opposite and set up a magical place in which crude, real emotions take place.” Åkerlund concurs: “When I have my fingerprints on a video, it usually has a strong realist, or even a bit of a sad feeling to it. You always hope that you have your own style and that’s why people are hiring you, not just because you’re available and work within your budget!”

Tight budgets are no longer the primary concern for these guys, who are busy crisscrossing the globe for their work.

Renck and Åkerlund remain business partners with a home office in Stockholm, even though they both spend much of the year working in Hollywood. Nilsson is quiet about his ambitions: “I don’t want to put a fatwa on my destiny by talking about future plans.” An aggressive creative drive born from a tight-knit community unites Sweden’s musicians and directors. “I think it has to do with living in a remote and diminutive country filled with young kids dreaming about living large,” Renck says. “Basically, Sweden is the Manchester of Europe.” Ken Miller

3/31/10 11:58:33 AM

stage

ON THE ORIGIN OF OPERA Legendary Swedish band the Knife returns from a long hiatus to score an opera based on Charles Darwin’s life Not everyone realizes it, but the Knife’s latest album, Tomorrow, in a Year, is actually the studio version of an eighty-minute opera scored by the band for Danish performance group Hotel Pro Forma. And it’s based on the life of Charles Darwin and his seminal work On the Origin of Species.

“We had never even been to an opera,” says Olof Dreijer, one half of the Knife (the other is his sister Karin Dreijer Andersson, who released a solo album under the name

Fever Ray in 2009). “But that’s what Pro Forma wanted— someone with a naive approach and no old habits.”

Being more familiar with eerie, complicated electronica than with countertenors and mezzo-sopranos, it took the duo the better part of a year to conceptualize, research, and record the score. Olof traveled to the Amazon to attend a field-recording seminar, and used that training to capture the sounds of Iceland’s barren landscapes. These samples became the basis for the opera’s ambient effects.

“The idea,” Dreijer explains, “wasn’t simply to record geological and biological rhythms and sample them into operatic compositions.” Instead, they digitally manipulated the field recordings, creating conceptual arrangements that merely hint at their organic origins.

The resulting sixteen tracks include everything from sparse and lilting electronic melodies typical of the Knife’s early recordings, to minimal sound compositions suggestive of animal and nature recordings. Karin’s voice takes turns sounding out animal calls, singing scientific lists and observations, and generally sounding like that of a possessed creature from another place and time. Julie Cirelli dress rehearsal of tomorrow, in a year, stockholm, january 2010 Photography Klaus Thymann Tomorrow, in a Year is out now from Mute. opera tours through october 23, 2010. WWW.HOTELPROFORMA.DK

46

63397_046.indd 46

3/25/10 7:36:22 PM

ADVENTURE

Anna Lorentzon, Alex Norden, and neighborhood kids in film stills from the forthcoming Ecohouse

ESCAPE FROM NEW YORK FILMMAKER Alex NORDEN TAKES A BREAK FROM MANHATTAN’S FAST LANE TO LIVE IN THE SWEDISH FORESt Alex Norden is one of those New York characters, the kind of guy who manages to juggle endless fascinating projects, make the scene, get the girl, and go on constant adventures.

Here he tells us what he’s been up to. jacob brown JACOB BROWN What did you do before moving out to the Swedish forest?

ALEX NORDEN I’m from New York, of a mixed Swedish, Russian background. I successfully dropped out of several schools in Paris, Moscow, Russia, New York, and Chicago.

I did a bit of modeling as a teen but didn’t like the reverse pressure of being perceived as a handsome boy that does something else. “Oh, you’re a model that wants to be a photographer, eh?” I was pretty good with computers early on and did a start-up during the great Internet bubble. That allowed me to do my own thing for a bit. The best is that I made a lot of mistakes; that’s how you learn. I wish I had made more, taken more risks.

JB How did your first film come about?

AN I am actually making my first film right now. I was just a coproducer on Graphic Sexual Horror. All the credit for that one goes to my partner, Anna Lorentzon, and her codirector,

Barbara Bell. I primarily did postproduction, some promotion, and I gave a little advice now and then.

JB That’s quite a name. What’s it about?

AN To me, Graphic Sexual Horror is about control, that old virus that birthed the empire. Empire is a big part of my work, that vector we all seem to follow, from revolutionary to reactionary. The film is about this former Carnegie Mellon professor’s journey to the bottom of his soul. He made great art by birthing the very first online fetish-porn empire, called Insex. It was hard-core in every way, but also beautiful. And it brought in millions in revenue. Then the government destroyed him by making these ridiculous claims about porn sites supporting terrorism.

JB How was it received?

AN It did quite well, in part because it is a great film, and in part because we did the right kind of promotion. You have to think who your audience is, and who the mediator is that gets you to your audience. Ideally you get loops going, with the audience influencing the critics and the critics getting swayed by the audience. Then you get into a mirror in a mirror ad infinitum. Graphic Sexual Horror showed at Slamdance, Fantasia, Buenos Aires, Calgary, Hot Docs, CineKink, and Bergen. You’ll be able to rent/ watch it on Netflix soon.

JB These pictures are from your own film, right?

AN Yeah, these are from my new project, which I am currently

calling Ecohouse, though I think it could more aptly be called Creative Lunacy Guide to Survival, Drama, and Green Living. Anna and I were feeling quite oppressed in New York. I am no pacifist, but I have traveled a lot and I’ve seen how quickly violence returns to you if you initiate it, which we’ve certainly done with the war in Iraq. On top of that, I had a really bad bike accident that required expensive surgery. I ended up flying to Russia of all places, and getting fixed up for a fraction of what it would have cost in the U.S. Anna was feeling pressure in New York as well; we both felt like the city would let us survive—but never let us truly live. So we thought about how to attain freedom without working until retirement. And a cheap house sounded like a perfect start. There is a very ghostly feel to Sweden.

Something about the ever-pervasive beauty of nature, with death always very near.

JB After Ecohouse, what’s next?

AN A real Pandora’s box of stuff. There’s another Internet start-up. And I’m trying to buy a bunch of Soviet Russian patents that deal with space tech and super diets. Could be the biggest thing ever, or another flop. Humanity is coming to this stage where we realize that everything is a thought, that thoughts are material. That is what the Internet is helping us wake up to. So today is the day to make any dream a reality.

You just have to be willing to pay the price. I’m looking for some extreme bargains on galactic adventure.

47

63397_047.indd 47

3/31/10 10:12:18 AM

drink like a viking

Photography Spencer Higgins Text Jason Rowan

Aquavit Sazeranian Rinse double rocks glass in aquavit and place in refrigerator. Muddle 1 white sugar cube with 4 dashes of Peychaud’s, 2 dashes of Angostura, and a tiny splash of soda water. Add 2 oz. of mint tea infused Bols Genever.* Stir to incorporate any undissolved sugar. Add ice. Stir. Strain into the chilled double rocks glass wiith lemon twist garnish. *Put a mint tea bag into Bols Genever for 15-20 minutes.

Recipe by Mark Buettler of Dressler, Brooklyn, NY

Granite table by Fritz Hansen (fritzhansen.com) All cocktail gear courtesy of Cocktail Kingdom

Photo assistant Jason Falchook Location George Brown Studio

The spirits of Scandinavia reflect something essential about the land: they are restrained and disciplined, but strong. From the region’s hallmark botanical-rich aquavit (caraway, cardamom, and anise are common infusions) to the vodkas of Sweden, these are grown-up liquors for grown-up-drinking. Which isn’t to say you can’t throw down.

Vodka is perhaps the most versatile base for mixed drinks, and ice-cold aquavit can liven up any cocktail—in terms of both taste and aftermath. Afterall, this is the land of the Berserkers.

The 20+ hours of summer daylight mean that many more hours of inebriation. Learn to drink the Nordic way

48

63397_048.indd 48

3/31/10 10:13:11 AM

Triple Threat

AGENDA

Turns out that model Mathias Lauridsen is a serious athlete, and an even more serious artist

photography bo egestroem

As one of the world’s youngest male supermodels, Copenhagen-born Mathias Lauridsen faces the occasional Zoolander joke. “Yeah some of my teammates think my day job is pretty funny,” he laughs, referring to the league soccer he plays regularly. This summer, VMAN will host the first ever Male Model World Cup in which teams of guys from each of New York’s big agencies will compete in a soccer tournament—an idea that was born out of conversations with Lauridsen.

But Lauridsen’s up to more than amateur sport. Having served as a photographer’s muse for years, he’s letting his own creative side shine. “I guess I have been exposed to a lot of individuals with amazing visions for what an image should be like,” he says.

“But I have always been visually minded and love to put my ideas on paper and eventually canvas.” The image here is Salvation Part 2, and deals with the transience of beauty.

“When I paint I’m more focused on the graphic expression than the message it sends,” he says of the work. “In the end, it’s more interesting for people to interpret if you don’t force it on them.” Jacob Brown artwork mathias lauridsen

JUICE HEAD Because running a fragrance house is the next best thing to playing pro ball A former professional basketball player with a degree in fine arts from Stockholm Art School, Ben Gorham is not your run-of-the-mill nose. Rather, in the four years since he launched Byredo, his Stockholm-based unisex fragrance line, the 32-year-old tattoo addict has become a kind of art-house perfumer, producing imaginative, evocative scents (this June, he will release an as-yet-untitled one inspired by robots) in chic minimalist packaging. A couple of clever collaborations—a candle with Acne, a fragrance with Fantastic Man—have only upped his fashion street cred; and later this year, he will launch perhaps his most ingenious pairing yet—a scent with graphic design duo M/M (Paris).

Karin Nelson

KARIN NELSON What fragrance do you wear?

BEN GORHAM I don’t remember ever buying a bottle of fragrance. And I still don’t wear anything—except for when I’m working on one.

KN What appeals to you then about scent?

BG Its abstract nature. It’s just juice in a bottle, but it has the ability to communicate emotionally. My first fragrances were all based on memories.

KN Do you have any rules for how people should wear them?

BG It might have something to do with not being trained in fragrance, but I’m into letting people do what they feel comfortable with. I get asked, Can I mix the scents? I say, Do what you like.

KN How did the M/M (Paris) collaboration come about?

BG It was very natural. They’re two guys who I admire, and we became friends—they use the product—and I just asked them one day, “Why don’t we do something together?”

The fragrance is based around the idea of ink. Not printing ink, more like calligraphy. We used Japanese ink as the inspiration. What’s interesting is that these guys are usually on the receiving end of the brief. This collaboration is built off of them writing the brief.

KN It seems like everyone wants to do a fragrance now.

BG Everyone. It was forgotten for many years, but now people have the idea of defining themselves with a bottle—whether it’s a brand or a magazine. The concept can be fun, but I will never do a fragrance unless we have a good idea.

PHOTOgraphy john scarisbricK

49

63397_049.indd 49

3/27/10 7:50:09 AM

ART

Northern Stars Rising FIVE Hot Artists Come in from the Cold…

Matias Faldbakken (1973, Denmark) The corruption of language is a common theme in Faldbakken’s work, which includes wall paintings, video, and published novels. Here, his “Miserable Man” series explores the deforming power of media by applying unrelated meaning to a random photograph, carelessly scanned on purpose.

Miserable Man 07, 2008. Courtesy Simon Lee Gallery, London

Ida Ekblad (1980, Norway) Ekblad’s diverse work ranges from vibrant expressionist paintings to arte povera assemblages — a promising start for a young artist whose short biography is what M.F.A. dreams are made of.

Lina Viste Grønli (1976, Norway) From minimalist sculptures of letters to absurdist installations with books, sneakers, and a coconut, Grønli’s visual tricks allude to the modernist past and its discontents.

Political Song for Jessica Simpson to Sing, 2006. Courtesy Gaudel de Stampa, paris

Goodbye, 2009. Courtesy Gaudel de Stampa, paris

50

63397_050_051.indd 50

3/31/10 10:13:58 AM

…AND ONE PRODIGAL SON RETURNS

Torbjørn Rødland (1970, Norway) Rødland’s carefully crafted photographs capture the viewer with a visually seductive universe that’s equal parts sinister and whimsical.

Five of Clubs, 2007-09. courtesy the artist and Air de Paris, paris

New York–based Norwegian artist Gardar Eide Einarsson finally gets his due with his first solo museum show in Oslo “Power Has a Fragrance” is the brilliant title of Gardar Eide Einarsson’s solo show at Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art in Oslo. Exploring the eroticism of transgression is what the 34-year-old Norwegian artist does best.

His stark, often black-and-white installations and paintings place political images within a sleek, glossy aesthetic.

They force the viewer to confront his or her own fascination with the crafted elegance of coercive organizations.

Henrik Olesen (1967, Denmark) Through his (Everybody knows that in war movies, the Nazis always collages, which combine gay-porn images with 19th-cen- have the best outfits.) tury etchings, Olesen highlights the conspicuous absence But deconstructing the beauty in the beast is no easy of homosexuality in modern history. Alan Turing, age 16 task. Often seen as political, Einarsson’s work has been (2008) is part of a series documenting the tormented life criticized for masking a lack of clear engagement with a of an early computing visionary. thick layer of varnish. Like Barbara Kruger, he works with Courtesy Galerie Daniel Buchholz, Cologne/Berlin high-impact, glitzy form and heavy content, ultimately

63397_050_051.indd 51

triggering a dizzying array of interpretations. His myriad references can be mind-boggling, but this may have more to do with the artist’s wide-ranging interests (from ’60s American cops to Japanese mobsters) and bicultural background than an alleged ambivalence.

Born in Oslo, Einarsson moved to New York in his mid twenties to take part in the Whitney Museum’s Independent Study program. Extensively shown on both sides of the Atlantic, his work has not had a solo exhibition in Norway.

His homecoming is a milestone in the young artist’s highly successful career. Toying with politics has become a serious game. Simon Castets Gardar Eide Einarsson in his New York Studio, March 2010 photography hanna liden “Gardar Eide Einarsson - Power has a Fragrance” runs through August 29, 2010, at the Astrup Fearnley museum of modern art, Oslo, norway

3/31/10 10:14:24 AM

BY

WONG WONG

ARGENTINA ★ ★ BRAZIL ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ENGLAND ★ FRANCE ★ GERMANY ★ ★ ★ ITALY ★ ★ ★ ★ NETHERLANDS • SOUTH AFRICA • USA

In celebration of the upcoming tournament in South Africa, Happy Socks and WONG WONG have designed a limited edition soccer sock collection, available from the 20th of May at select retailers worldwide and happysocks.com.

426291wwl_A CMYK WW_HS_V MAN_FINAL.indd

Grooming Benjamin Puckey (See Management) Photo assistant Christopher Helmut Grosser stylist assistant cori barton location Jack Studios, nyc Catering Broadway East retouching View Imaging

style calvin’s new man A wave of teen fandom has brought KELLAN LUTZ a slew of killer roles. Look for him on billboards near you “I’m a god,” says Kellan Lutz.

To females of a certain age, the hunky 25-year-old actor may be a modern deity. But the Twilight star is referring to his latest role, the god Poseidon in next year’s blockbuster Dawn of War. Twilight has been good to Lutz, leading to a raft of various projects, including a reboot of Nightmare on Elm Street and a rom-com called Love, Wedding, Marriage, with Mandy Moore. But what Lutz really wants to be is an action star. “I like getting hurt,” he says. “I don’t have tattoos, so my bruises and scars are my tattoos.”

These days, Lutz isn’t wanting for attention. As the face of Calvin Klein X Underwear,

he’s hard to miss. “It’s kind of weird to drive by,” he admits of the billboard on Sunset Boulevard. Could Lutz repeat the success of former CK hunk-turned–action star Mark Wahlberg? “I can only pray I have half the opportunities he’s had,” says Lutz. “Those are hard boxer briefs to fill.” Anthony Kaufman Photography Amanda de Cadenet Styling Benjamin Sturgill Jacket Calvin Klein Collection s/s 2010 Necklace LUTZ’s own

53

63397_053_057.indd 53

4/5/10 8:48:18 AM

From Con-Man to G-Man Matthew Bomer lands the lead in USA’s hit crime drama White Collar and puts all the bad boys away Matthew Bomer’s got guts. With his new USA Network series White Collar, the 32-year-old Texan enters the fraternity of actors able to pull off the slick cowboy criminal with a unique brand of coy cutesiness that only works because they’s manly men. Orson Welles did it in The Third Man; Cary Grant in To Catch a Thief; McQueen in The Thomas Crown Affair; and of course Clooney in the Ocean’s remake (his character cries while watching Oprah). These guys are rock-solid badasses, but romantic as the rain. Bomer’s White Collar character is a slick former confidence man who joins up with the FBI as a sort of karmic sheriff now devoted to taking out his own kind. And the actor certainly finds inspiration in the right place.

“My role model is Paul Newman,” says Bomer. “For me, he embodied what it means to be successful at this. You can believe him as the romantic leading man, or he can be Cool Hand Luke—he can have the grit. I like characters who aren’t perfect, that’s what’s fun for me to play as an actor: the imperfections, the shadows.” Elliot David

Hair Louise Moon for Redken (Aim Artists) photo Assistants Magda Wosinska and Maxfield Hegedus Retouching Anna Bolek (Wet Noodles)

hot in hollywood

Photography doug inglish Styling Benjamin Sturgill Suit Gucci S/S 2010 Sweater BOSS Black S/S 2010 Bracelets Shamballa Jewels

63397_053_057.indd 54

3/25/10 7:42:06 PM

Samantha’s New Boy toy Megastar model Noah Mills takes a turn on the big screen as the love interest of Sex and the City’s infamous cougar “It’s kind of a dangerous way to live your life,” confesses Noah Mills, noting the fleeting nature of beauty within the fashion game. “Because at some point, it ends.”

As a model, 25-year-old Mills might be edging up to the older side of the spectrum, but during his career he’s certainly seen a lot of success: he’s walked in fashion shows for Armani, Versace, Gucci, and Yves Saint Laurent, and he’s been the face of Dolce & Gabbana, Calvin Klein, Tom Ford, and Michael Kors. Regardless, he doesn’t want to be considered (just) a male model.

“If a model says he’s a great painter, he should at least give it a shot,” continues the Baltimore-born Mills. “When I say ‘I’m an actor,’ I mean my passion, my art, and what I want to be challenged by is acting.”

With a role in the upcoming Sex and the City sequel, Mills gets a shot to not only flex his acting chops, but also an opportunity to glide into a profession where men are allowed the option to age with grace, and where endings are much farther off. Elliot David Photography Mark Abrahams Styling Benjamin Sturgill Trench and scarf Ermenegildo Zegna s/s 2010 Bead necklace Shamballa jewels Cross necklace mills’s own Fragrance D&G 6 L’Amoureux

Hair Wesley O’Meara (The Wall Group) Photo assistant Chad Lukaszewski stylist assistants derrick quinn and cori barton Location Pier 59 Studios, nyc Digital Technician Tim Bell retouching box

63397_053_057.indd 55

4/5/10 8:56:49 AM

hot in hollywood

Twilight’s New Villain in his first big role, young actor Xavier Samuel faces off with R. Patz

Photography doug inglish Styling Benjamin Sturgill Jacket AND Sweater Hugo S/S 2010 Pants John Varvatos S/S 2010 Watch Georg Jensen Ring samuel’s own

63397_053_057.indd 56

Hair Louise Moon for Redken (Aim Artists) photo Assistants Magda Wosinska and Maxfield Hegedus Retouching Anna Bolek (Wet Noodles)

As one of the new cast members in the blockbuster vampire franchise Twilight, Xavier Samuel was catapulted to stardom practically overnight. But, as the 27-year-old veteran of Australian theater, film, and television reminds us, “It’s often the case that breaking actors have been breaking out for years.”

His first semi-mainstream role was in a 2007 film about racial intolerance called September, in which he played opposite Alice in Wonderland’s Mia Wasikowska. “It had a lot of integrity,” says Samuel, who hopes to keep a “level head” amid the whirlwind of Twilight mania.

The Adelaide native with boy-next-door good looks also recently received attention for The Loved Ones, a nasty horror-thriller in which he’s tortured by a lovesick crush. After his turn in Eclipse, as the “tragic” Riley—arch nemesis of Robert Pattinson’s Edward Cullen—Samuel moved to London to act in Roland Emmerich’s “Shakespeare thriller” Anonymous.

The life of a rising actor has its drawbacks, though. “Living out of a suitcase and your comfort zone, it’s a bit of a challenge,” he admits. Even though Samuel admires Hollywood auteurs like the Coen brothers and Wes Anderson, he’s a hometown boy at heart. “I want to get back to Australia and do a film there,” he says. “It’s important to remember your roots.” Anthony Kaufman

3/31/10 10:16:50 AM

Hair Louise Moon for Redken (Aim Artists) photo Assistants Magda Wosinska and Maxfield Hegedus Retouching Anna Bolek (Wet Noodles)

FangBanger’s Bro Playing the brother of TV’s most famous vampire-lover has made Aussie actor Ryan Kwanten America’s latest heartthrob Even before landing a career-changing role as Jason Stackhouse on HBO’s True Blood, 33-year-old Aussie actor Ryan Kwanten knew a thing or two about jobs requiring shirtlessness. “People back home knew me because I’d done a soap opera there for a few years,” he explains. “After that job ended, I came to the States for what was supposed to be a five-day holiday.

I basically never left.”

The actor is excited by the slew of offers that have come his way as a result of True Blood (he completed work on three films while the show was on hiatus last year), but he’s still most happy playing the troublemaking, wildly impetuous Stackhouse. It’s a role that Kwanten swears couldn’t be further removed from his own personality. “I’m a pretty down-to-earth, private kind of guy,” he says. “And this character is so impulsive, so lacking of any forethought or any kind of willpower. It’s great to be constantly required to throw all caution to the wind and play someone so wild.”

In regard to the hotly anticipated third season of True Blood, Kwanten promises lots of surprises. “They never rest on their laurels when it comes to figuring out new ways to shock people,” he laughs. “Every time we get a new script we all just sort of sit around in awe. It’s like, Are we really going to make this? Honestly, I’m just as shocked and surprised as everyone else who watches the show.”

T. Cole Rachel Photography doug inglish Styling Benjamin Sturgill Shirt and pants Salvatore Ferragamo S/S 2010 Hat kwanten’s own

63397_053_057.indd 57

3/31/10 10:19:40 AM

Turning Japanese

Prada’s newest denim fully embodies the traditional techniques of the Japanese indigo masters employed to create them. The yarns it is woven from have been dipped in indigo thirty times, and the resulting denim is stiff as a board (as raw selvedge should be). The Prada logo was redrawn in a Shinto style and the jeans are only available at the flagship stores in Milan and New York.

Josh Peskowitz

The Royal We It’s time to turn back the swimsuit clock. Tiny is out and the ’20s are in. Street-inspired fashion line WeSC has a knack for expertly pulling off oddball moves, and this one’s right up there with their crawfish-inspired collection a few years back. So when you see the freshest skater kids heading to the beach in one-pieces this summer, you’ll know why. Jacob Brown wesc.com

Fine Lines Every season Marc Jacobs works with the creativedirection firm M/M (Paris) to develop a pattern for the collection. This season’s concept includes pieces with hand-drawn lines along their seams.

It’s a great effect—just don’t try to shove your brand-new shades into that trompe l’oeil pocket. JP

WESC and shamballa Photography Matthew Kristall Styling Yuki James Grooming Nico Guilis for Chanel (See Management) Model Travis Bland (Wilhelmina) Photo assistant Gieves Anderson Location Artistic Cube studio Special thanks Artistic Cube Inc. and Flash Clinic Rentals

VMAN

Flora Danica Royal Copenhagen has been making porcelain for the Danish monarchy since 1775. They still sell some of the old aristocratic patterns (like Flora Danica and Blue Fluted), but are equally well-known for their more modern and strangely (in a good way) whimsical patterns.

They even make zodiac-inspired figurines (seen above).

So what’s the secret? The brushes used to paint the porcelain are made from the hair of reindeer. Only in Scandinavia! Danica Lo royalcopenhagen.com 58

63397_058_062.indd 58

3/31/10 10:22:28 AM

Prada, Marc Jacobs, FjÄllraven, Brunello Cucinelli Photography dom smith

NEWS Axe Marks the Spot Fjällräven is best known for its rough-and-tumble rucksacks, but the 50-year-old outfitter’s adventurous, utilitarian aesthetic yields some of Scandinavia’s coolest gear. It used to be hard to buy outside the Nordic region, but the Swedish company’s new outpost in Nolita changes that. It’s filled with bags in every color, jackets of all types, indigenous Sami collectibles, sheep hides, and assorted other stuff—like this axe. DL

A Mads Mads World At 19-years-old, Mads Kornerup began traveling to Brazil and its plateaus, valleys, and canyons. “It was the first time I felt I was part of it all, heaven and earth,” he remembers.

Since then, the Copenhagen-based founder of Shamballa Jewels has spent his days working with the symbols of spiritually. The two signs that he’s most drawn to are the Vajra (thunderbolt) and the Visvavajra (crossed thunderbolt), which he’s combined to create his signature Star of Shamballa. “It has a life of its own, constantly reminding us that humans are little fractions of stars,” he explains.

He’s made pieces for everyone from businessmen and middle-eastern sheiks to Jay-Z and ZZ Top, but he’ll never sell his Star to someone whose spiritual seriousness he questions—much to the chagrin of his business partners. According to Kornerup, he doesn’t have a choice. “I am just the Star’s temporary guardian.” Derek Blasberg Available at Barneys New York and shamballajewels.com

Fjällräven new york, 262 Mott Street, nyc.

Jacket as Bag You’ve got your keys, phone, BlackBerry, wallet, digital camera, gum, cigarettes, lighter, receipts, magazines, newspapers, iPad, plane tickets, passport, and lord knows what else. But for those who prefer to go bagless, the solution is a lightweight, unstructured jacket. With no padding in the shoulders and no lining, blazers like this one by Brunello Cucinelli are the ideal summer bag. So load it up with all your gear, toss it over an arm or a shoulder—or just wear it. JP Available at Bergdorf Goodman, nyc

Be Nimb, Be Quick Since it first opened its doors as the Divan 2 restaurant in 1877, the Nimb Hotel has been one of Copenhagen’s see-and-be-seen luxury hangouts. These days the Moorish-inspired Italian marble structure houses thirteen individually designed suites, two restaurants, and two concept bars. As an added bonus, the five-star hotel opens directly onto Tivoli, the psychedelic amusement park in the city center that in and of itself is worth the trip. DL

63397_058_062.indd 59

3/31/10 10:22:40 AM

young folks 4 labels to look out for this fall

mr. nils

Laitinen’s stockist list reads like a who’s who of European and Japanese retail—and this Spring, it lands at Seven New York. Since a 2006 debut at the festival d’Hyeres, the Finnish brother-sister team of Tuomas and Anna Laitinen has taken a technical approach to design. “We don’t really change our inspiration from one season to another,” Tuomas says. “We have our own world and every collection is a continuation of the previous one.” DL

Lars Nilsson has quite a C.V.: Chanel, Dior, Christian Lacroix, Ralph Lauren, Bill Blass, Nina Ricci, Gianfranco Ferré. This Fall he tries his hand at a new challenge: menswear. His label, Mr. Nils, which debuted at Pitti Immagine Uomo this past winter, mixes ivories, navy blues, whites, and blacks with warm heathers, houndstooths, and herringbone. The fabrics are equally genteel: corduroys, suedes, cashmeres, and wools.

All of it is perfect for the aspiring Scandinavian aristocrat. DL

laitinencollection.com

mr-nils.com

Laitinen

m cornejo Maria Cornejo might not be a household name, but her designs are championed by New York’s most stylish women. Now men can finally get in on that signature architectural style. Her first men’s collection will be available initially at both Zero + Maria Cornejo stores in New York City, and at Project No. 8. But expect to see it far and wide in the near future. JP

leshommesfashion.com

laitenen photography Chris Vidal maria cornejo Photography Rodrigo Pereda

les hommes The prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp keeps pumping out inspiration. Graduates Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch recently formed Les Hommes and are quickly establishing a reputation for an experimental approach to proportion. Their Spring/Summer collection takes it up a notch, playing on themes of transparency and gloss. DL

zeromariacornejo.com

63397_058_062.indd 60

4/6/10 12:20:52 PM

THE FUR IS FLYING

news NEWS

Kopenhagen fur’s futuristic vision If fur in recent years has left the Upper East Side and invaded downtown, it owes much to Kopenhagen Fur and its Kopenhagen Studio design initiative. Collaborating with designers like Gareth Pugh, Rick Owens, and Gaspard Yurkievich (as well as luxury labels like Gucci and Louis Vuitton), Kopenhagen Studio has directly sourced some of the most all-out luxurious animal pelts in the world— from fox and chinchilla to mink and karakul—and placed them in the hands of fashion’s most forward-thinking artists. Nevermind the politics—Kopenhagen’s collaborators have reimagined fur as anything but old school, and not even necessarily for women. For Fall/Winter 2010, designers have produced ever-inventive takes on the fabric, like Soulland’s men’s baseball jacket with sheared mink sleeves, David Andersen’s sleeveless mink vest, and Haider Ackermann’s cocooning chinchilla fur jackets. Young designer Domingo Rodriguez-Baez showed a bias-cut mink coat inserted with reindeer leather panels, and for dudes, a slim and simple fur bomber. Anyway you wear it, Kopenhagen Studio is bringing fur into the 21st century.

Christopher Bartley photography chad pitman Styling yuki james Fur vest David Andersen for Kopenhagen Studio F/W 2010 Leather pants Bottega Veneta F/W 2010 watch and All jewelry David Yurman

Hair Franco Gobbi for Redken (Art Department) Grooming Francelle for Nars cosmetics (Art + Commerce) Model Anthony Murrell (New York Models) Photo assistants Jason Gearing and Sloan Laurits stylist assistant moly mamourian Digital technician Mario Torres Retouching Dippin Sauce Location Cult studios

63397_058_062.indd 61

3/31/10 10:23:32 AM

sunglasses and antisweden photography dom smith

news

In the Shade

Cloud Club

Plastic sunnies are always your best bet come summer. But to avoid the Chinatown look, you’ll need something special. In the “clubmaster” style (meaning they have metal bottoms) there is the Wilder from Oliver Peoples and the Donahue from 3.1 Phillip Lim. For a rounder shape, go with Ralph Lauren Purple Label for a little tortoiseshell in blond, or with cult opticians Selima Optique for some shape and color. If you want to feel particularly smart, refer to your frames as acetate instead of plastic. JP

Georg Jensen’s flagship stores in New York, Taipei, and Copenhagen are designed to feel like high-design Danish homes. But one of them is special. Upstairs from the brand’s store within Copenhagen’s Kastrup Airport, is a VIP flyer’s lounge like no other. “Being a frequent guest in airports in all parts of the world myself, I often miss a moment of peace and privacy,” says Georg Jensen CEO, Ulrik Garde Due. “When I saw the drawings for our new store in Copenhagen, I immediately realized the need and opportunity for us to create a truly exclusive and secluded lounge.” If you get your invitation, expect flat-screen TVs, Wi-Fi, snacks, a coffee bar, and champagne…served from the finest Danish crystal. DL

From top: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Oliver Peoples, Selima Optique, Ralph Lauren Purple Label

Norway is the new Black

LV in l.a.

The soon-to-open Santa Monica Place shopping center will house brands like Michael Kors, Burberry, Ted Baker, All Saints, and Bloomingdale’s. And Louis Vuitton will anchor the ground floor with a four thousand square foot boutique in the central plaza. The store will carry leather goods, accessories, and footwear. And it will be the first eco-friendly LEED-certified Vuitton store in the world. DL

Born of the friendly rivalry between Sweden and Norway, AntiSweden is a Norwegian brand committed to reclaiming the true dark overtones of skinny jeans. Drawing on black-metalinspired graphic elements, and what it calls “the unremitting darkness at the heart of the Norwegian identity,” the brand reinfuses the onceiconic denim staples with a heavily stylized dose of hard core.

DL antisweden.no

louisvuitton.com

63397_062rev.indd 62

4/5/10 9:08:05 AM

Get Back!

Swedish designer Ann-Sofie Back has long deserved her label’s sizable cult following.

Since assuming the role of creative director at Cheap Monday, she’s begun growing the famously anarchic jeans line into a full-on readyto-wear collection; for Spring/Summer, she riffs on the always-ripe language of disaffected youth. The line’s strategic rips, strips of silver faux duck tape, innovative dye jobs, and muted palette will feel equally punk Stateside as they do in Södermalm. DL

With expected Scandinavian elegance, sportswear brand Ron Dorff distills athleticism to its graphic essence. Simple pieces, from exercise shorts to slim-cut T-shirts, emphasize the formal shape of the male form in a perfectly masculine way. If the look doesn’t get you to the gym, then the brand’s motto, “Discipline is not a dirty word” certainly will. rondorff.com

cheap monday, soulland, surface2air photography dom smith moonspoon photography noam griegst unnar photography courtesy the artist

Sports Authority

cheapmonday.com

Mad Hatter

Showing Skin From Elvis, the Ramones, Billy Idol, and Lou Reed all the way to Pete Doherty, when it comes to black leather and rock stars, nothing should come betwixt the two. Surface2Air understands this. Last year the fashion collective teamed up with France’s Phoenix to create the baddest leather jacket around. This summer, the Kings of Leon attempt to outdo it with a capsule collection called S2A x KOL. The line includes an array of whiskey-soaked, sexed-up shirts, jeans, and boots. But this kickin’ L.J. screams sex louder than the rest. DL surfacetoair.com

63397_064rev.indd 64

Silas Adler, the founder and designer of Soulland, started his company in Copenhagen in 2002 as an excuse to quit high school. We don’t advocate such things, but with or without a diploma, Adler is a prodigy. His collections inspire you to wear the clothes—they are street but very much fashion at the same time. This hat, called the Adler Fedora, is a must-have look among Danish cool kids and was developed by Soulland in conjunction with Andersen & Berner, one of Denmark’s oldest hatmakers. It’s hand blocked and sewn in the traditional manner but the effect is thoroughly fresh. Next season Soulland will move its operations to Paris— expect great things. JP soulland.eu

3/31/10 10:36:37 AM

news

Vision Quest Sweden’s Oscar Magnuson Spectacles designs frames inspired by legendary figures, real and fictional. Everyone from Damien Hirst to Dorian Gray and Bullitt (the Steve McQueen character from the 1968 film of the same title) has a pair. Recently the brand launched a collection of sunglasses at a pop-up store and gallery at 237

Eldridge Street on New York’s Lower East Side. Billed as the reopening of a Swedish optometry shop from the 1800s, the whole thing turned out to be like something out of an Oscar Wilde novel. Which is perfect, since, as he once said, “Illusion is the first of all pleasures.” DL

Man In The Moon The Danish fashion and art collective Moonspoon Saloon—comprised of fine artist Tal R., stylist Melanie Buchhave, fashion designer Sara Sachs, and photographer Noam Griegst—has been garnering accolades for its fashion endeavors.

The group’s performance-art sensibilities translate perfectly into the outré, texturized, and mostly handmade creations they show. Be forewarned, you’re not gonna find any Scandinavian minimalism here. DL Available at Seven New York. moonspoonsaloon.com

Sounds Good In an era when musical genres are so fragmented, crossed-over, and mashedup that one finds classification a pointless affair, we’re left with only one division that makes sense: good or bad. Past Lives and its first LP, Tapestry of Webs, falls undeniably into “good.” The standard fare of guitars, drums, and synthesizers mingle with bass clarinet, flute, and upright bass. Mixed together with frenetic rhythms and a dash of vocalist Jordan Bliley’s Ferry-esque voice, the result sounds like a jam session between Grace Jones and Burzum, the murderous Norwegian black-metal band. Byron Kalet tapestry of WEBs is Out now from Suicide Squeeze

63397_064_065.indd 65

Ice Baby Icelandic photographer Magnus Unnar recently published his first monograph in a limited run of five hundred.

In The Middle of Something roams from New York to London and back to his homeland. A quick flip-through proves that Unnars’s signature snappy, ephemeral shots have a place on every aficionado’s bookshelf. magnusunnar.com

3/27/10 8:15:52 AM

summer beach gear that’s fun, graphic, and essential. dive in!

Photography Matthew Kristall Fashion Editor Yuki James

TWIST OF LIME DANNY WEARS Y-3 tank, $95, Björn Borg swim trunks, $50, Swatch watch, $115

All other: Grooming Rebecca Plymate for Davines (See Management) Models Jamie Jewitt and Danny Schwarz (VNY) Photo assistant Liudi Hara and Ryan Page stylist assistants laura marciano and eric schlosberg Catering Broadway East Location Sandbox Studios

Coveted Matter printed matter From left: Jamie wears Diesel swim trunks, $85, Tissot watch, $1,095 Danny wears Hermès swim trunks, $880, Diesel watch, $140 On skin, ZINKA colored sunblock, $6

HEED THE CALL OF THE WILD Rufskin tiger-print swimsuit, $51

66

63397_066_067.indd 66

4/5/10 9:34:31 AM

SUSTAINABLE SUMMER AND TWIST OF LIME: GROOMING NICO GUILIS FOR CHANEL (SEE MANAGEMENT) MODEL DANNY SCHWARZ (VNY) Photo assistant Gieves Anderson Location Artistic Cube studio Special thanks Artistic Cube inc.

SUSTAINABLE SUMMER DANNY WEARS Nike Brazil CBF Home Men’s Soccer Jersey, made from recycled plastic bottles, $70

A SIX PACK for YOUR SIX PACK The Beer Belt Waterproof ballistic nylon belt, $22, Osklen swim trunks, $177, Diesel watch, $85

so SHADY Sunglasses, from left: Ksubi, $196, calvin klein collection, $335, super, $142

a couple of bright IDEAS Paul Smith printed canvas bag, $113, and Dior Homme sandals, $140

63397_066_067.indd 67

4/5/10 10:13:05 AM

john galliano

fall’s finest the strongest looks from next season’s collections Text Josh Peskowitz

63397_068_073.indd 68

salvatore ferragamo louis vuitton

It’s been a wild year, and the Fall collections demand to be put into some kind of context. The worldwide recession that shook us all seems to be coming, finally, to an end. And the shows this past January and February — some of the strongest in recent memory — reflected that improving sales situation. It was refreshing to see so many designers feel free to do their own thing; either literally, as in the case of Mr. Armani sticking to his black-velvet guns, or figuratively, as in the case of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana returning to the fertile ground of a dusty Sicilian piazza for their mainline collection’s 20th anniversary. Individualism was the rule, but certain trends stick out. Here they are.

3/27/10 1:42:02 PM

runway

louis vuitton

DUNHILL Ermenegildo Zegna

john galliano salvatore ferragamo salvatore ferragamo

Gentleman’s Club

Bruuns Bazaar Photo Courtesy of Helle Moos Hermès Photo Courtesy of Jean-Francois Jose

An undercurrent of aristocratic sophistication ran through Milan and Paris, and why not? So many houses were returning to their roots, and those roots, in most cases, rest deep within the upper classes. At Dunhill, creative director Kim Jones married his penchant for all things young and street to the brand’s deep affection for wellbred thrill seekers. Beautifully constructed suits sported

seams at the waist, and extra panels were tucked into watch plaid, huge scarves, and lots of layers. At Louis hiking boots made of green crocodile. At YSL, cashmere Vuitton, men’s design director Paul Helbers focused on glenn plaid suits were belted with sashes, and dropped “Bleisure,” the mix of business and leisure attire. This crotch trousers were matched with waistcoats and the translated to leather-accented suiting layered with puffy occasional fez for an imperial North African feel. Salvatore vests or techno parka/overcoat hybrids. Hand tacked Ferragamo outfitted the traveler (think old-world horse- wooden-soled boots and sumptuous leather bags rounded drawn carriage) with riding boots, toggle coats in black- out the collection.

dunhill bruuns bazaar

hermès

dunhill

louis vuitton

69

63397_068_073.indd 69

3/31/10 3:09:42 PM

Hermès Photo Courtesy of Jean-Francois Jose Rick Owens Photo Courtesy of Marcio Madeira Hope Photo Courtesy of Jesper Lindström

SHEaRLING

burberry prorsum

hermès

gucci HOPE

louis vuitton givenchy by riccardo tisci

rick owens

Outsize, Out-There, Outerwear Coats and jackets ruled many a runway this season — we are talking Fall/Winter collections after all. There were shearling coats in all shapes and sizes: from big to really, really big; from shaggy to refined; from authentic to continental. At Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Bailey showed the skin and the wool on his high-neck transatlantic pilot’s coat.

Gucci’s take was better suited for the back of a Gulfstream than the cockpit of a propeller plane, and everyone from Rick Owens to Salvatore Ferragamo to Hope showed a variation of the sheepskin staple.

63397_068_073.indd 70

Then came the varsity jackets. Thom Browne showed an oversized version worn over the shoulder. Danish designer Soulland (in collaboration with Kopenhagen Studio) showed one with sheared mink sleeves. Junya Watanabe applied the leather sleeve technique to overcoats, and Riccardo Tisci used a suit shoulder on his sleek, all-black version at Givenchy.

Thom Browne’s varsity jacket wasn’t his only oversized piece. In fact, the majority of his overcoats, stadium coats, and cardigans were of floor-sweeping proportions.

Not what you’d expect from the master of shrunken suits, but it reflected a larger trend. Kris Van Assche’s flowing, belted overcoats for Dior Homme reached to the cuffs of his cropped trousers. At certain points all you saw were boots and coat. Stefano Pilati explored volume at Yves Saint Laurent with oversized sleeves and convex back seams. Italian sportswear giant C.P. Company cinched its big coats at the waist, and at Calvin Klein, Italo Zucchelli’s ankle dusters covered the techno-inflected (and razor sharp) tailoring underneath.

3/31/10 3:10:37 PM

4/5/10 10:28:20 AM

63397_068_073.indd 71

paul smith kopenhagen Studio

YVES SAINT LauRENT C.P. COMPANY ALEXANDER McQUEEN

Y-3 THE LOCAL FIRM

DIOR HOMME

volume

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Photo Courtesy of Andrew Thomas C.P. Company Photo Courtesy of Chris Moore THE LOCAL FIRM Photo Courtesy of Jesper Lindstrรถm DIOR HOMME Photo Courtesy of Patrice Stable/Dior Homme Soulland for Kopenhagen studio and bruuns bazaar Photo Courtesy of Helle Moos

runway

soulland for

bruuns bazaar

dunhill

varsity

miharayasuhiro

moncler Gamme bleu

michael bastian

thom browne

D&G

63397_068_073.indd 72

Mountains will loom large over the fashion conscious man this Fall. From the fur-lined parkas at Michael Kors to the hiking boots at Rag & Bone and Miharayasuhiro, alpine slopes seemed to be on every designer’s mind. Some focused on the downhill aspect: D&G took it all the way ski with snowboard/moon boot hybrids, shearling jeans, and layers of outerwear masquerading as knits. Others went for après ski: Victor Glemaud did cashmere knits in

fireside-ready graphics and textures. At Moncler Gamme Bleu, Thom Browne designed quilted ski shorts, chord puffer bombers, and plaid union suits, all of it wearable both on and off the mountain. It also bears mentioning how many in the audience were wearing head to toe Gamme Bleu. Fashion types don’t usually wear the T-shirt to the concert, but a devoted following of snow-ready mountaineers proves the long-term viability of this look.

Thom Browne and michael bastian Photo Courtesy of Dan and Corina Lecca MiharaYasuhiro Photo Courtesy of Zeppelin Photo

alpine adventure

4/5/10 10:40:26 AM

RUNWAY

lanvin

bottega veneta

Marc by marc jacobs

henrik vibskov

dries van noten

Soldier On The lion’s share of menswear staples began life as military issue, including trench coats, blucher shoes, epaulets, cargo pants, field jackets, plaids, oiled cotton, motorcycle jackets—the list goes on and on. Dries Van Noten’s collection took prep and military boarding schools as a starting point. Army-grade Melton wool was used for peacoats and M-65 inspired field coats. Burberry Prorsum’s entire collection was dedicated to the company’s archives of military jackets. It was actually commissioned by the British War Office to create the very first trench coat in the

early 20th century. And every one of the coats in the show had actually been sold by Burberry at some point in its history. The canvas army parka was seen on several runways, including Wood Wood in Copenhagen and Michael Bastian in New York. Hope showed a white Swedish winter anorak, and Bottega Veneta had an M-65 army field jacket in several hues. Even Lanvin showed its twist on army with cargo pants and army boots. Actually pretty much every show this season had a version of a combat or a cavalry riding boot.

Lanvin Photo Courtesy of Dan Lecca Henrik Vibskov Photo Courtesy of Alastair Wiper Hope Photo Courtesy of Jesper Lindström C.P. Company Photo Courtesy of Chris Moore

michael bastian hope c.p. company

Marc by marc jacobs

michael bastian

63397_068_073.indd 73

burberry prorsum

3/31/10 3:12:59 PM

SCEne stealers An intimate backstage look at 5 of the season’s top collections Photography Schohaja Text Josh Peskowitz

74

63397_074_079.indd 74

3/31/10 3:18:28 PM

LOUIS vuitton Louis Vuitton’s creative director Marc Jacobs (opposite page: bottom left) and men’s design director Paul Helbers (this page: bottom right) piled layer after layer of luxe leather, cashmere, and techno-nylon garments onto their models, who marched out to a mix of Viennese music both old and new.

63397_074_079.indd 75

3/27/10 2:25:02 PM

jil sander Clean-shaven young guys with pompadours were the perfect canvas for Raf Simons’s latest offering of modernist tailoring, which this season includes innovative fabrics and geometric detail.

63397_074_079.indd 76

3/31/10 3:21:04 PM

VERsace The blacked-out venue, the laser light show, the pumping house music, the leather, the boots, the prints, and the slicked back hair—Donatella’s show was younger and racier than ever.

63397_077rev.indd 77

4/5/10 11:11:34 AM

RICK OWENS Windswept hair, (relatively) bright colors, and stacked-heel python boots—Rick Owens was having a glam moment at the Fall show, further emphasized by the Mott the Hoople sound track.

63397_074_079.indd 78

3/27/10 2:49:49 PM

Special thanks to Michael Kiel (Louis Vuitton) Anne van den Bossche (Rick Owens) Daniel Motta Mello (PR CONSULTING) Celia Nichols (Versace) Kerry Youmans (KCD)

63397_074_079.indd 79

alexander mcqueen A quiet strength resonated through what became Alexander McQueen’s final menswear show. At first glace it seemed low-key by McQueen standards, but upon closer inspection the intricate, photo-collage prints worn by the pallid models were made up of catacombs-inspired arrangements of bones.

The patterns also covered the floors and walls, creating a mesmerizing effect.

3/31/10 3:22:11 PM

True Blooded Star Alexander Skarsgård proved his range and talent long ago. But two years on HBO’s hottest show has put his career into overdrive. meet Hollywood’s new leading man Photography Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin Styling Michael Philouze Text Jacob Brown

Suit, shirt, bow tie, pocket square, cuff links Tom Ford s/s 2010

80

63397_080_087.indd 80

3/25/10 8:12:21 PM

63397_080_087.indd 81

3/25/10 8:12:46 PM

63397_080_087.indd 82

3/25/10 8:13:00 PM

Suit, shirt, bow tie, pocket square, cuff links Tom Ford s/s 2010 On hair, Kiehl’s Clean Hold Styling Gel

63397_080_087.indd 83

3/25/10 8:13:13 PM

“[Vampires are] simultaneously comforting and dangerous.

They can either be a protector or turn on you and f’INg kill you in one second.”

–Alexander Skarsgård

A one thousand–year-old Viking vampire sheriff. Who owns a bar called Fangtasia. of soccer. Spent a lot of time hanging out on Stockholm’s hip southern island Södermalm Admittedly, the role hardly sounds career-making. But in this era of HBO, two seasons (“We called it the dirty south”). Finished high school. Signed up for the army. And then playing True Blood’s inscrutable Eric Northman—under the guidance of Oscar, Emmy, at 19 found himself at loose ends. and Golden Globe–winning auteur Alan Ball—has transformed Alexander Skarsgård into In the fall of 1997, he enrolled at Marymount Manhattan College to study acting and serious leading-man material. theater only to drop out six months later. “I quit for this girl I’d met back home,” he laughs.

“Recently the quality of these kinds of shows—The Sopranos, Six Feet Under, The “I thought I was in love, I missed her, and I was miserable. I told myself, Yeah! She is worth Wire—has been better than ninety-nine percent of what you’ll get in theaters,” says the fighting for!” A few days after returning to Stockholm, though, they broke up. Going back 34-year-old Swedish-born actor. “The character development Eric has gone through to New York wasn’t an option so he started taking roles in Swedish film and theater. could never happen in ninety minutes.”

A year or two later he was on vacation with his family in Los Angeles, when his father’s TV was once a ghetto for second-tier actors. More recently it’s been a springboard manager asked if he wanted to go on a few “meetings.” Next thing he knew he was playor a strategic detour for actors on the way to high regard. But to a new generation, the ing the ridiculously good-looking Meekus in Zoolander. (For those who don’t remember, depth of exploration it allows puts the episodic narrative on par with the feature length. Meekus meets an unfortunate end after some innocent gasoline-splashing fun.)

In terms of Skarsgård’s career, this summer’s third season of True Blood will be as much Up through Zoolander, acting had been a pretty happy-go-lucky affair for Skarsgård. of a crowning achievement as his first lead in a major motion picture—esteemed direc- As a child actor he’d stumbled into fame, then dropped it without much of a thought. tor Rod Lurie’s remake of Straw Dogs, out early next year.

He’d gone to acting school, quit without consequence, and then found himself in a Ben To the American audience, Skarsgård’s rise is sudden. There was the critically lauded Stiller flick. As Skarsgård recalls, “It seemed so easy.” miniseries Generation Kill (also on HBO), and then the cultural phenomenon that is True But things dried up quickly. After Zoolander, the only American role he landed for a while Blood. That’s it. (Of course the rumors of romantic liaisons with starlets like Evan Rachel was a small one in Hitch—and it got edited out. For seven or eight years he shuttled back Wood and Kate Bosworth, which he has flatly denied, have helped keep his name and and forth between Stockholm and Los Angeles. Back home he’d do a project or two, and face front and center.) save up just enough money to come out to Los Angeles and audition for a few months.

But back home Skarsgård is no newcomer. At 7, he was cast in famed Ingmar Bergman Then, with nothing to show for his efforts, he’d go back and do it all over again. collaborator Allan Edwall’s Åke och hans värld (Åke and his World) after being recommended Eventually Alan Ball came calling, but the unexpectedly long, grueling path he’s been by his father—actor Stellan Skarsgård. His third role was the lead in made-for-TV movie down lends Skarsgård serious perspective when it comes to fame. “I have a fear of Hunden som log (The Dog that Smiled). Basically a goofy kids special, it nevertheless the whole American celebrity thing. I’m not sure if I could act in an interesting way if I made Skarsgård famous overnight. Literally. became too swept up in that,” he says. “I know the people I grew up with support me— At the time there were only two television channels in Sweden. So whatever was on, half they couldn't care less what roles I am getting. Back home my friends are carpenters or the country pretty much watched. The morning after Hunden som log aired, Skarsgård whatever. They have nothing to do with the movie industry.” walked into school and everyone stared. He came home that afternoon and girls were Not that Skarsgård’s unhappy with his in-demand Hollywood status. The roles availwaiting outside his house to get autographs. None of this sat well with him. able to him back home in Sweden were limited; now he is being offered meaty material.

“I was suddenly different from my best friends and I didn’t like the feeling. Thirteen is Having just wrapped the Rod Lurie project—already pegged as Oscar material—he is already a weird age. Puberty, your body, all that,” he says. “If we would go out and play looking forward to the reception True Blood’s third season will receive. If he’s not the only [soccer] and a girl would watch my friend, he would think it’s exciting...but to me it started handsome undead this summer, at least he’ll be the most interesting being like, Oh shit she is staring ’cause she watched that silly movie.”

He has a theory as to why vampires—whether in True Blood, Twilight, or The Vampire This is not a mindset Americans are used to. “A lot of young actors here push them- Diaries—are so much a part of the zeitgeist. “It’s much easier to relate to these contemselves. Or their parents push them because they are living through their kid vicariously. porary portrayals than what you had with F.W. Murnau’s or Werner Herzog’s Nosferatu They move from Idaho to Hollywood ’cause someone told them their girl is so beautiful,” films. They seem more human basically,” he explains. “Vampires symbolize immortality explains Skarsgård. “My dad completely left it up to me. There was never a decision and sexuality. All the experience and confidence they have draws you in—it’s simultamade about anything. I was just a kid doing it on a whim. “ neously comforting and dangerous. They can either be a protector or turn on you and Indeed, Skarsgård quit acting at 13. He went back to being one of the guys. Played a lot fucking kill you in one second.”

T-shirt and jeans Marc Jacobs s/s 2010

63397_084rev.indd 84

3/31/10 3:58:13 PM

63397_080_087.indd 85

3/25/10 8:13:30 PM

T-shirt Marc Jacobs s/s 2010 Necklace Rogues Gallery

63397_080_087.indd 86

3/25/10 8:13:46 PM

Hair Christiaan for Kiehl’s Grooming Talia Shobrook (Community.nyc) Photo assistant Blair Madigan Stylist assistant Jorden Bickman Manicure Deborah Lippmann for deborahlippmann.com (The Wall Group) Lighting technician Jodokus Driessen Digital technician Brian Anderson Studio manager Marc Kroop location Smashbox Studios Printing Box

63397_080_087.indd 87

3/25/10 8:14:01 PM

63397_088.indd 88

4/5/10 11:15:37 AM

FASHION FROM SUMMER TO FALL

his-and-her looks HIGH-DRAMA fantasy Danish youth the return of Shrek future menswear SWEDISH ROCK STARS 63397_089.indd 89

89

3/27/10 8:46:59 AM

Dolce & Gabbana Meghan wears Cardigan and dress Dolce & Gabbana Earrings and necklace Ted Muehling Shoes Manolo Blahnik Sean wears Sweater and pants Dolce & Gabbana Shoes Church’s

90

63397_090rev.indd 90

4/5/10 12:27:07 PM

Prada Christian wears Sweater and pants Prada Shoes Church’s Siri wears Cardigan and skirt Prada Shoes Manolo Blahnik

Discreet Charm

Enter the new simplicity. Coordinated couples show oΩ Fall’s new craze: classically elegant clothes for him and her. Imagine that Photography Sebastian Faena Styling Mattias Karlsson

63397_090_097.indd 91

4/5/10 12:31:59 PM

Filippa K Siri wears Coat Filippa K Necklace and cuff Georg Jensen Glasses Cutler and Gross Gloves Ines Gloves Shoes Manolo Blahnik Christian wears Peacoat, cardigan, pants Filippa K Shoes Church’s

63397_090_097.indd 92

4/5/10 12:32:35 PM

Bruuns Bazaar Siri wears Coat Bruuns Bazaar Earrings Ted Muehling Belt Dolce & Gabbana Shoes Manolo Blahnik Christian wears Jacket, sweater, pants Bruuns Bazaar Shoes Church’s

63397_093_094rev.indd 93

4/5/10 12:25:09 PM

Givenchy

by Riccardo Tisci Christian wears Jacket, shirt, pants Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci Shoes Church’s Fragrance Givenchy Pi Siri wears Jacket, shirt, shorts Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci Rings Bjørg Shoes Manolo Blahnik

63397_093_094rev.indd 94

4/5/10 12:25:55 PM

Louis Vuitton Meghan wears Dress Louis Vuitton Cuff and choker Georg Jensen Gloves Ines Gloves Shoes Manolo Blahnik Sean wears Jacket, sweater, pants Louis Vuitton Glasses Cutler and Gross Shoes Church’s

63397_090_097.indd 95

4/5/10 12:33:07 PM

Hope Siri wears Coat, cardigan, skirt Hope Shoes Manolo Blahnik Christian wears Coat, sweater, pants Hope Shoes Church’s Hair Holli Smith for Redken for Men Grooming and makeup Dotti for M.A.C Cosmetics (Streeters) Models Sean O’Pry (VNY), Meghan Collison (Next), Siri Tollerød (DNA), Christian Brylle (Ford NY) Lighting technician David Diesing Photo assistant Aubrey Mayer Stylist assistant Sivan Currie Hair assistant Michal Kaiyalethe Grooming and makeup assistant Chichi Digital technician Aurelie Graillot Studio manager Toby Bannister Retouching View Imaging Catering Broadway East Photo equipment Splashlight Casting Andrew Weir and Sasha Wilson (acwworldwide.com) Videographer Bell Soto See a film of this shoot on vman.com

63397_090_097.indd 96

4/5/10 12:33:35 PM

Burberry Prorsum Sean wears Coat, sweater, pants Burberry Prorsum Gloves Filippa K Shoes Church’s On hair, Redken for Men Polish Up Defining Pomade Meghan wears Coat and dress Burberry Prorsum Earrings Ted Muehling Ring Bjørg Gloves Ines Gloves Shoes Manolo Blahnik

63397_097rev.indd 97

4/5/10 12:34:35 PM

Mathias wears Coat Burberry Prorsum F/W 2010 horn headpiece AND_I Necklace Georg Jensen on hair, bumble and bumble grooming creme

A little fantasy goes a long way.

Fall’s fresh-from-the-runway clothing meets extreme accessories, as seen on model Mathias Lauridsen and modelturned-filmmaker Rie Rasmussen Photography Benjamin Alexander Huseby Styling Nicola Formichetti 98

63397_098rev.indd 98

4/5/10 12:50:12 PM

Rie wears Dress By Malene Birger F/W 2010 Veil Meadham Kirchhoff F/W 2010 Candle crown Rein Vollenga fragrance givenchy ange ou demon le secret

63397_098_105.indd 99

4/5/10 1:01:53 PM

Mathias wears Sweater John Varvatos F/W 2010 Leggings Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2010 Hat a child of the Jago Necklace Bjørg belt 3.1 phillip lim f/w 2010 Arm Warmers By Malene Birger F/W 2010 socks happy socks Boots J.W. Anderson f/w 2010

63397_098_105.indd 100

3/27/10 9:12:01 AM

Mathias wears Scarf (worn over shoulders) Topshop unique F/W 2010 Sweater and hat Katie Eary F/W 2010 Boxers Diesel F/W 2010 Watches Georg Jensen Socks Happy Socks Boots J.W. Anderson f/w 2010

63397_098_105.indd 101

3/27/10 9:12:10 AM

Mathias wears Shirt Paul Smith F/W 2010 Pants and belt Ashish F/W 2010 Hat Vivienne Westwood MAN F/W 2010 Boots Burberry Prorsum F/W 2010 fragrance paul smith paul smith story

63397_098_105.indd 102

4/5/10 1:06:41 PM

Rie wears Top Diesel Black Gold f/w 2010 Headpiece Heather Huey on hair, bumble and bumble tonic lotion

63397_098_105.indd 103

3/27/10 9:12:32 AM

Mathias wears Coat Burberry Prorsum F/W 2010 Shorts Comme des Garรงons Homme Plus F/W 2010 Leggings Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2010 Hat Topshop unique F/W 2010 Arm warmers By Malene Birger F/W 2010

63397_098_105.indd 104

3/31/10 6:34:42 PM

Mathias wears Fur coat and hat Vivienne Westwood MAN F/W 2010 Jacket Peak Performance F/W 2010 Leggings Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2010 Boots J.W. Anderson F/W 2010

Set design Gary Card (CLM) Hair James Pecis for Bumble and bumble (D+V Management) grooming and Makeup Maki Ryoke (Tim Howard Management) Models Mathias Lauridsen (New York Models) and Rie Rasmussen (One Management) Photo assistants Jenny Hueston and Ryan Bevans Stylist assistants Emily Eisen, Natalie Hazzout, Jessica Bobince, Rian Fossett, karin รถstrรถm Hair assistant Wren Grondzik Set design assistant Kris Daddone Location Jack Studios Digital technician Joe Gunn Catering Ilili Retouching Pro-Vision

63397_098_105.indd 105

3/27/10 9:12:58 AM

youth in revolt Copenhagen’s young and restless find their city ready for transformation. Hedi Slimane documents the musicians, artists, designers, dancers, architects, and anarchists heating up the Danish scene Photography Hedi Slimane Styling Clare Richardson Text Jacob Brown

ANDREAS CHRISTIANSEN, 17 ARTIST I found out about this through someone I met last summer at a big Danish rock festival called Roskilde.

It’s been fun today, guess modeling could be a good hobby, but I plan to move to London for art school.

T-shirt Acne Chainmail top Asger Juel Larsen Gold brocade breastplate Katie Eary Jeans Romarino

106

63397_106_119.indd 106

3/27/10 9:23:07 AM

63397_106_119.indd 107

3/27/10 9:23:18 AM

VICTOR NUNO, 20 CONCEPTUAL ARTIST With my friends I have an artist’s collective called Dying Architect. We will launch a fashion line next season, something very extravagant. Extravagance is not a very Danish idea but we would like to change that.

Jacket Cheap Monday Black tank Acne Knit sweater Gareth Pugh All jewelry his own

63397_106_119.indd 108

3/27/10 9:23:29 AM

JAKOB JAKOBSSON, 25 STUDENT AT the royal danish academy of fine arts I’m finishing my fourth year in the architecture program. It’s a really amazing school.

I like to build new things out of old things. I call it “upcycling.”

Shirt Velour T-shirt J. Lindeberg Jeans Cheap Monday Suspenders Topman

63397_106_119.indd 109

3/27/10 9:23:41 AM

LOUIS PETRI, 18 STUDENT I guess you would call it a rave bus. My friends helped organize—basically they DJ while the bus drives everyone around to all the parties going on that night.

Crown cheap monday All clothing his own

63397_106_119.indd 110

3/27/10 9:23:47 AM

PER KRISTIAN LINNEMANN, 18 SKATER I’ve never skated up the side of one of these before [the curved floor-towall surface in photo studios known as a cyc], but it works pretty well.

All clothing his own

JAKOB, 15 MADS, 16 ELECTRONIC MUSIC DUO ELECTROJUICE We met three years ago at the little boarding school we attend in Århus, and have been making music together ever since. Even though we make electronic music, it is indie rock like Animal Collective and Atlas Sound that most inspires us.

It’s going pretty well so far. We’ve opened for our heroes Kraftwerk, and twice for the Prodigy. myspace.com/electrojuicemusic All clothing their own

63397_106_119.indd 111

3/27/10 9:23:55 AM

CHRISTIAN MARDahL, 19 SINGER-SONGWRITER Copenhagen, and Denmark in general, is a good place to write music. The weather is not so good so you look inside yourself.

Sweater Mads Nørgaard – Copenhagen

63397_106_119.indd 112

4/5/10 1:12:55 PM

ANTON FUNCK, 17 CONCEPTUAL ARTIST I hate everything about school, that’s why I dropped out. I model some to get by, but I’m not an object. I’m in this art collective with my friend Nuno, and we just had one of our films shown at a museum here called Arken.

Vest Acne Necklace Atelier 11 Bandana his own

63397_106_119.indd 113

3/31/10 7:17:40 PM

jonas kloch, 18 STUDENT I’d like to become a photographer; right now I’m looking forward to a trip to Ghana.

Cape Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair By The No. Printed dress Bruuns Bazaar Knit top James Long Spiked necklace Eddie Borgo Long necklace Atelier 11

63397_106_119.indd 114

3/31/10 7:20:48 PM

ALEXANDER MARSTRAND, 19 PAINTER I’m hoping to attend Beaux-Arts in Paris. My father’s an artist and his work really inspires me. I’m pretty focused on making abstract collages right now.

Cape stylist’s own Jacket Filippa K Knit sweater James Long Earring Atelier 11 T-shirt Acne Jeans H&M Necklace his own

63397_106_119.indd 115

4/5/10 1:18:16 PM

MATHIAS SARSGAARD, 19 DRUMMER IN SUPERSHINE I’ve been playing since I was 5 years old—that’s when my parents bought me my first drum kit. The band is doing really well. For Copenhagen you might say amazing. Our EP came out in January, and we have a London tour coming up. myspace.com/supershinemusic Jeans Bruuns Bazaar Bear head courtesy the Royal Danish Ballet Theater

OSCAR NILSSON, 16 DANCER WITH THE ROYAL DANISH BALLET THEATER I go to school at the theater. I do everything there.

We work Monday through Saturday until four p.m.

But we have Sundays off. I’ve been doing this since I was 7 years old so I am used to it. Saturday night we usually go out to clubs, but I’m too shy to dance.

I just try to talk to girls.

Pants his own

63397_106_119.indd 116

4/5/10 1:24:45 PM

ANDREAS CHRISTIANSEN Black trousers Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair Danish flag costume hire in acton

BUSTER SVENDSEN, 17 GUITARIST FOR DORIAS BARACCA Yeah, I guess we kind of represent the Copenhagen shoegazer scene. But we are doing really well elsewhere too. We released an EP a few months ago with the London label Club AC30, and have been playing over there a bunch. On our first trip we took an eighteen-hour ferry ride from Copenhagen. The apartment on the boat was way nicer than the hostel we stayed at in London. myspace.com/doriasbaracca Tank Adidas Jacket his own

63397_106_119.indd 117

3/27/10 9:24:59 AM

Videographer Kasper Vesth Lighting Niels Kjaer Olsen Production Thomas Hargreave (Stage7) Retouching Colorclub Studio Stage7 Special thanks Royal Danish Ballet, Ungdomshuset, Thue Guldstrand, Peter Damgaard, Nikolaj HĂźbbe, Kameraudlejningen, Sebastian Machado

max jacobsen, 17, STUDENT Death Machine is this crazy autonomous club that is the new Ungdomshuset [the youth house]. A lot of Copenhagen’s anarchist kids go there.

Jacket Adidas Hoodie Cheap Monday T-shirt his own

3/27/10 9:25:06 AM

63397_106_119.indd 118

Grooming Cim Mahony (The Wall Group) Photo assistants Isa Jacob, Aleksander Kornmaaler Stylist assistants Rebecca Connoly and My Ringsted thanks to Rudolf Bekker Digital capture Sascha Oda Casting Thomas Hargreave and Jacob Brown

Videographer Kasper Vesth Lighting Niels Kjaer Olsen Production Thomas Hargreave (Stage7)

mikkel radicke, 19 blogger Copenhagen in the summer has the most amazing atmosphere. Just kickin’ back in the parks, hanging out, drinking beer. I love it. But I’d like to travel more.

Eventually work in fashion. Definitely check out my blog; it’s called Fuck Sex We Just Want Clothes. www.boohyouwhore.com Leather jacket Bruuns Bazaar Breastplate Katie Eary Knitted leather top Asger Juel Larsen Striped T-shirt Filippa K

63397_106_119.indd 119

3/27/10 9:25:14 AM

Francisco wears Leather and chain vest Bliss Lau Leggings and boots Dolce & Gabbana f/w 2010 Headband Alexander Wang f/w 2010 Arm warmers by malene Birger f/w 2010

This summer, green is back in fashion. And with the u.s. release of Shrek Forever After on May 21, everyone’s getting in on the act Photography Ellen von Unwerth Styling Nicola Formichetti

63397_120_129.indd 120

3/27/10 10:13:16 AM

Agnete wears Top Alexander Wang f/w 2010 Briefs Agent Provocateur Body cages Heather Huey Necklace (worn as headband) Benoit Missolin Shoes Designers Remix f/w 2010

121

63397_120_129.indd 121

3/31/10 7:53:33 PM

63397_120_129.indd 122

3/31/10 8:12:24 PM

Emma wears Bustier Agent Provocateur Shorts Designers Remix f/w 2010 Leg warmers and shoes Alexander Wang F/W 2010 Headband Benoit Missolin gloves by malene birger f/w 2010 Paolo wears Leggings and boots Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2010

63397_123rev.indd 123

3/31/10 8:13:24 PM

Francisco wears Cardigan and pants John Varvatos F/W 2010 Ring Bjørg Bracelet Shamballa Jewels Cross Necklace David Yurman Body chains (on torso and worn as belt) Bliss Lau On hair, Redken for Men Maneuver Working Wax

63397_120_129.indd 124

3/27/10 10:15:28 AM

Paolo wears Hat By Malene Birger F/W 2010 Pants J. Lindeberg f/w 2010 Boots Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2010 Francisco wears Body chains Bliss Lau Jeans Guess Arm warmers By Malene Birger F/W 2010 belt and_i Boots Jean-Michel Cazabat F/W 2010

63397_120_129.indd 125

3/27/10 10:16:05 AM

from left: Francisco wears cardigan Y-3 F/W 2010 Pants Mads Nørgaard – Copenhagen F/W 2010 Sunglasses Walter Van Beirendonck

by Linda Farrow Sneakers New Balance Emma wears Dress Ann-Sofie Back F/W 2010 Headband AND_i Sunglasses Mercura NYC Shoes Acne F/W 2010 Agnete wears Dress Alexander Wang F/W 2010 Necklace (worn as headband) Mawi Necklace (worn as belt) and boots

By Malene Birger F/W 2010 Paolo wears Sweater John Varvatos F/W 2010 Kilt Pringle of Scotland F/W 2010 sunglasses mercura nyc Boots Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2010

63397_126rev.indd 126

3/31/10 8:26:26 PM

63397_120_129.indd 127

3/31/10 8:25:11 PM

Emma wears Jacket Designers Remix f/w 2010 Bra Chris Habana Headband Benoit Missolin

Location The Standard, new york Hair Dennis Gots for redken for men grooming and makeup Devra Kinnery for Christian Dior (Art Department) Models Agnete Hegelund (Next), Emma Dumont, Paolo Anchisi, Francisco Lachowski (Ford NY) Manicure Rica Romain for Chanel (See Management) Photo assistants Christoph Lange and Jochem Sanders Stylist assistants Emily Eisen, Natalie Hazzout, jessica bobince, rian fossett Digital technicians Shannon Sinclair and Mario Torres Production Tali Magal (Freebird Productions) Production assistant Michael Flis (Freebird Productions) Retouching Impact digital all animated characters courtesy dreamworks animation Special Thanks Laura Salvato at Paramount Pictures

63397_128rev.indd 128

3/31/10 8:27:13 PM

Agnete wears Jacket Marc Jacobs F/W 2010 Dress Designers Remix F/W 2010 Corset Rag & Bone F/W 2010 Sunglasses and boots Alexander Wang F/W 2010 Bracelets Shamballa Jewels

63397_120_129.indd 129

3/31/10 8:35:02 PM

Bonded textured nylon-andshearling multi-zip jacket Calvin Klein Collection F/W 2010

Shape of the Future in an exclusive collaboration, Calvin Klein menswear designer Italo Zucchelli creative directs a shoot featuring his sleek fall fashion, as seen on rising Danish model Axel Brorson Photography Josh Olins Styling Jay Massacret 130

63397_130_137.indd 130

4/5/10 2:16:00 PM

Cloud wool ottoman-rib sweater Calvin Klein Collection F/W 2010 Neoprene pants from The Leather man

63397_130_137.indd 131

4/5/10 2:16:12 PM

Rubber overcoat Calvin Klein Collection F/W 2010 Jacket (worn underneath) from What Goes Around Comes Around Hat from Screaming Mimi’s

63397_130_137.indd 132

4/5/10 2:16:23 PM

Mylar shirt and punched texture wool- and-cotton pants Calvin Klein Collection F/W 2010 Belt from What Goes Around Comes Around Gloves from The Leather man On hair, L’OrÊal Paris Studio Strong Suit Mega Spritz

63397_130_137.indd 133

4/5/10 2:16:34 PM

Plongee leather cardigan bomber and engineered pants Calvin Klein Collection F/W 2010 Gloves from The Leather man On skin, LancĂ´me Men Hydrix Micro-Nutrient Moisturizing Balm

63397_130_137.indd 134

4/5/10 2:16:56 PM

Gotham etched wool-and-cotton sport suit Calvin Klein Collection F/W 2010 Belt from What Goes Around Comes Around Gloves from The Leather man

63397_130_137.indd 135

4/5/10 2:17:09 PM

Wool-and-silk ribbed sport coat Calvin Klein Collection F/W 2010 Boxer briefs Calvin Klein Underwear

63397_130_137.indd 136

4/5/10 2:17:26 PM

Hair Shay Ashual (Tim Howard Management) grooming Stephen Dimmick for LancÔme (l’Atelier NYC) Model Axel Brorson (Scoop) Photo assistants Rory Payne and Jason Geering stylist assistant olivia kozlowski Set design Amy Henry (CLM) Digital technician Tonia Arapovic (Spring digital) Catering Broadway East Retouching Jon Hempstead LLC special thanks Splashlight soho

4/5/10 2:17:38 PM

63397_130_137.indd 137

Nylon-and-shearling multi-zip quilted jacket and punched texture wool-and-cotton pants Calvin Klein Collection F/W 2010 Gloves from Screaming Mimi’s

Pelle wears Suit Tiger of Sweden Shirt Filippa K Shoes Louis Vuitton

Swede and Vicious The country is the world’s third largest exporter of music—no small feat for a population of only 9 million.

Meet Sweden’s biggest stars Images created by Danish fashion and art collective Moonspoon Saloon Styling Robert Rydberg Text Jacob Brown

63397_138_145.indd 138

4/1/10 9:41:49 AM

Pelle wears Jacket and pants Tiger of Sweden Shirt Filippa K Tie Acne Shoes Louis Vuitton

Howlin’ Pelle Almqvist of the Hives Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern (Royal Theater), Stockholm

“The Swedish mentality is not well suited to rock stardom,” explains notoriously cocky Swede rock star Howlin’ Pelle Almqvist. Despite his reputation, in person he is quiet, almost shy, and just an all-around nice guy—so it’s a bit hard to understand the origin of his arrogant, over-sexed stage persona. “The first time I went on stage, it just kind of happened.”

This summer the Hives will hit all the Euro festivals and release an EP comprised solely of covers. Songs by bands like Flash in the Pan, the Jets, and Zero Boys made the cut.

“We wanted to record, but the material for our album wasn’t ready,” explains Almqvist.

“We like all these bands. We’ve been playing their songs live. These are songs that more people should hear.”

After the summer tour wraps up, the Hives will head home to refocus on its own material and prepare the next full-length. Almqvist promises a return to form. “We are going to focus on being the Hives as much as we can. Last time I suppose we experimented with some other things,” he says. “Even if it means revisiting the past, now we just want to be ourselves.”

139

63397_138_145.indd 139

4/1/10 9:42:10 AM

the sounds Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern (Royal Theater), Stockholm

The Sounds might be Sweden’s hardest touring band.

“In the last year we’ve played 185 shows, I think. That’s like a show every other day,” laughs keyboardist Jesper Anderberg. In support of its third album, Crossing the Rubicon, the Sounds went on the road with No Doubt for the entire summer. Then hit Europe with Panic at the Disco.

And only when all that was done, did the band kick off its own sold-out tour.

That’s a lot of support touring for a band on its third album. “We got offered those tours and saw it as a risk we wanted to take,” says Anderberg. “It worked out in that for our own tour we booked all these venues we’d never have played otherwise. But it also exhausted us.”

As the record business continues to stumble, bands like the Sounds can play sold-out shows at massive venues, whether they sell albums or not. “The album is just a way to get the music out there, and we may look at new ways to do that,” says Anderberg. “To us, being a band means playing.”

FROM LEFT: Jesper wears Cardigan and jeans The Local Firm T-shirt Acne Boots Rick Owens Bracelets Stylist’s own Fredrik wears Shirt and trousers Filippa K Shoes Acne Maja wears Dress Acne Hat Barbro Scott Hosiery Wolford Boots Jil Sander Felix wears Jacket Nicolaj d’Étoiles Shirt Blank Jeans The Local Firm Hat Barbro Scott Shoes Whyred Johan wears Jacket Filippa K Shirt and scarf J. Lindeberg Jeans and shoes Tiger of Sweden Glasses The Local Firm

63397_138_145.indd 140

4/1/10 9:43:02 AM

63397_138_145.indd 141

4/1/10 9:43:30 AM

fever ray Sollentuna, Stockholm

One of the most important artists to emerge anywhere in the world in the last ten years, Fever Ray represents the most disturbing and futuristic elements in Swedish music.

Many of Fever Ray’s singular qualities are influenced by the geographical region she hails from. “In cold countries like ours, we spend most of the time indoors in our own homes. Fifteen weeks of snow cuts you off from many things. Trains, buses, planes, electricity, and water stop working. They don’t plough so you can’t use your car or walk the streets with your kids,” explains Karin Dreijer, the woman behind Fever Ray. “Where you live geographically, how you live, your culture, affects you.” The isolation she describes is not a negative thing to Dreijer. “I think it is a bit special.”

Performance has become an integral part of Fever Ray—an interesting change since the early days of making music with her brother as the Knife. “It must be worth all the work to tour, and at the moment I think it is. When we started with the Knife, we didn’t have the possibility— whether financially, mentally, or experience wise—to make it happen, but now we do,” she says. “And it would never have happened if Andreas Nilsson hadn’t talked us into it and produced all the scenery, set design, visuals, and costumes. Playing with the idea of a live show interests me.

The visual performance of music is imporant.”

Nilsson has directed many of the videos for Fever Ray and the Knife, and works as a sort of creative director with Dreijer. “We send each other images and film clips and e-mail and discuss things on Skype,” she says. “He’s got a great feeling for what I do. His images trigger and intensify my music. We both have humor and like to laugh at our shortcomings, a thing I think is very important to be able to continue digging in this, whatever you call it, darkness!”

Karin wears All clothing and boots her own

63397_138_145.indd 142

3/27/10 10:39:08 AM

63397_138_145.indd 143

3/27/10 10:39:40 AM

Peter bjorn and john

August Strindvall’s Röda Rumet (The Red Room) at Berns Salonger Hotel, Stockholm

Swedish music of today—whether rock, techno, or folk—owes much of its notoriety to Swedish pop of yesterday. Few can rival the global influence of Abba, Ace of Base, Roxette, and Robyn. But four years ago the band Peter Bjorn and John did just that when it released “Young Folks.” The song’s whistled chorus quickly tore through the world’s radio stations like a wild fire, and since then, the band has become synonymous with Sweden’s modern pop cred.

It’s latest album, Living Thing, was released last year to great fanfare, and the band

continues to tour extensively while working on new projects. One of those projects is Björn Yttling’s ongoing collaboration with Sweden’s current reigning queen of pop, Lykke Li. Her first album, which was produced by Yttling, burst onto the American airwaves at the end of 2008. And this summer her contribution to Twilight Eclipse’s sound track has put her back in the mainstream limelight—perfectly timed to propel her toward a new full-length release later in the year. It will, of course, be produced once again by Yttling.

from left: Peter wears Jacket Bruuns Bazaar Shirt Filippa K Pants Ben Sherman Hat Barbro Scott Shoes Miu Miu John wears Jacket Nicolaj d’Étoiles Sweater Bruuns Bazaar Pants Hope Hat The Local Firm Björn wears Jacket Filippa K Shirt The Local Firm Pants Acne Hat Barbro Scott Scarf J. Lindeberg Shoes Lanvin

63397_138_145.indd 144

4/5/10 2:31:01 PM

shout out louds

Spegelsalen (The Hall of Mirrors) at Berns Salonger Hotel, Stockholm

As the lead singer of Shout Out Louds, Adam Olenius will be forever recognized by the perfectly neo-folk timberof his voice. “It’s a 1990s kind of folk,” he explains. “Like I was more directly influenced by Neutral Milk Hotel than by Dylan.”

Now on its third album, Shout Out Louds has grown without feeling pressure to evolve too fast. “I don’t think there is a need to change, per se. But we’re more powerful as a band now. In the beginning everything was so new. That made it more difficult musically and socially,” he says. “We’ve gone from being a gang to a real band. So like, in the studio

Photo assistants Patricia Reyes and Anders Lindén Stylist assistants Oscar Lange and Christopher Insulander Retouching Werkstette Special thanks Johan Pettersson (New Blood Agency), James & Perra Light and Location

63397_138_145.indd 145

this time around, we just worked with ourselves. No other instrumentation. And we went to a semi-isolated spot outside Seattle so no one could escape.”

Like a lot of Swedish artists, the band is pop-influenced despite its troubadour leanings.

Olenius goes so far as to connect his work to Abba. “They were pop, but their words were sad, even broken,” he says. “Living in Sweden means longing for summer, wanting to be somewhere else. Longing always takes you to pop. That’s why when you are a kid you put your headphones on—to find a better place”

from left: Ted wears Jacket Sand Shirt and pants Acne Shoes Clarks Carl wears Jacket Tiger of Sweden Shirt Filippa K Erik wears Jacket and shirt Whyred Bebban wears Dress Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair Adam wears Jacket Tiger of Sweden Pants Whyred Shoes Yves Saint Laurent

for the hives and the sounds: Hair Erika Svedjevik for Redken (Linkdetails) grooming Johanna Sylvan for YSL (linkdetails) for Shout out louds and peter Bjorn and John: Hair Martina Senke (Mikas) grooming Oliver Andersson (mikas) for fever ray: hair and grooming Dejan Cekanovic

4/1/10 9:45:21 AM

DAVID wears jacket Paul Smith s/S 2010 T-shirt and shorts Hummel s/S 2010 White shorts (worn underneath) D&G s/S 2010 Tank Diesel s/S 2010 Socks American Apparel Shoes model’s own

male model world cup Memorial Day Weekend 2010 vman.com/soccer

Photography Klaus Thymann Styling Zara Zachrisson 146

63397_146_147.indd 146

4/1/10 8:48:20 AM

4/1/10 8:37:46 AM

Fashion’s top models face off on the soccer field

special thanks hummel

63397_147rev.indd 147 MATHIAS wears T-shirt and shorts Hummel s/S 2010 Hoodie D&G s/S 2010 Socks American Apparel Shoes model’s own

Grooming Rebecca Plymate for Davines (See Management) Models Mathias Lauridsen (New York Models) and David Agbodji (Request) Photo assistants Olly Burn and James Burger retouching digital darkest star Location Sara D. Roosevelt Park

63397_159_148 BACKWARDS.indd 159

4/5/10 4:21:20 PM

from left: Ford wears Shirt Polo Ralph Lauren F/W 2010 Henley Gucci F/W 2010 Hannah wears Bodysuit Agent Provocateur Nicholas wears Sweater Polo Ralph Lauren F/W 2010 Sweatpants Dries Van Noten F/W 2010

Hair Jimmy Paul for Bumble and bumble (Susan Price) GROOMING AND Makeup Frank B. (The Wall Group) Models Hannah Holman (Elite), Nicholas Madrid, Ford Smith, Michael W, Luke Briggs (Ford NY) Set design Andy Harman (The Wall Group) Photo assistants Brian Zeigler and David Swanson Stylist assistants Lester Garcia and Sonia Gallo Digital technician Glen Fabian Studio manager Seth Goldfarb Catering Ilili Retouching Dtouch special thanks Splashlight soho

63397_159_148 BACKWARDS.indd 158

4/5/10 4:20:55 PM

“Every five minutes I’m like, I can’t believe it! If this takes off, I’m goin’ to Hollywood.”

Nicholas wears T-shirt Dries Van Noten F/W 2010 Watch David Yurman Fragrance Giorgio Armani Attitude Pour Homme

63397_159_148 BACKWARDS.indd 157

4/5/10 4:20:38 PM

“The boys were all very sweet, and obviously so cute! I absolutely love meeting new people.”

Hannah wears Jacket Designers Remix F/W 2010 Bodysuit Agent Provocateur On hair, Bumble and Bumble Spray De Mode

63397_159_148 BACKWARDS.indd 156

4/5/10 4:20:09 PM

Luke wears Coat Marc by Marc Jacobs F/W 2010 Shirt Adam Kimmel F/W 2010 Sweatpants Woolrich Woolen Mills F/W 2010 Boxers Adam Selman On hair, Bumble and Bumble Extra Strength Holding Spray

63397_159_148 BACKWARDS.indd 155

4/5/10 4:19:36 PM

“My girlfriend always said I should be a model, But I didn’t take her seriously until now!”

Michael wears Vest Acne Shirt Sand F/W 2010 Jeans vintage from Screaming Mimi’s Watch David Yurman On hair, Bumble and Bumble Sumowax

63397_159_148 BACKWARDS.indd 154

4/5/10 4:19:03 PM

“I really want to be a model as long as I can. then do soap operas the rest of my freakin’ life.”

Ford wears Shirt Adam Kimmel f/w 2010 T-shirt (customized by stylist) Hope F/W 2010 Sweatpants Topman Design F/W 2010 Watch Swatch Fragrance Dior Eau Sauvage

63397_159_148 BACKWARDS.indd 153

4/5/10 4:18:37 PM

Nicholas wears T-shirt Ron Dorff Pants Topman Design F/W 2010 Watch David Yurman Belt vintage from Motorcycle Federation

63397_159_148 BACKWARDS.indd 152

4/5/10 4:18:12 PM

“It all happened so fast. I was like, Whoa, I’m on the cover!”

Luke wears Sweatshirt Mads Nørgaard copenhagen F/W 2010 Pants Dries Van Noten Underwear Calvin Klein Underwear

63397_159_148 BACKWARDS.indd 151

4/5/10 4:17:46 PM

Michael wears jacket Kopenhagen Fur F/W 2010 Sweater Converse by John Varvatos F/W 2010

63397_159_148 BACKWARDS.indd 150

4/5/10 4:17:20 PM

JOIN FINALISTS FORD & NICHOLAS IN GETTING TO KNOW NEWEST COOL KIDS Photography Terry Richardson Styling Mel Ottenberg 149

63397_159_158 BACKWARDS.indd 159

4/5/10 4:12:32 PM

From left: Luke wears Vest Dries Van Noten F/W 2010 Sweatshirt Hope F/W 2010 Pants Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2010 Michael wears Coat Lanvin F/W 2010 Sweater Converse by John Varvatos F/W 2010 Pants Dries Van Noten F/W 2010 Ford wears Hoodie Converse by John Varvatos F/W 2010 T-shirt American Apparel Sweatpants Topman Design F/W 2010 nicholas wears Tank Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2010 Sweatpants Y-3 F/W 2010

VMAN FORD MODEL SEARCH WINNERS LUKE & MICHAEL BLONDE BOMBSHELL HANNAH HOLMAN. MEET FASHION’S 63397_159_158 BACKWARDS.indd 158

4/5/10 4:11:52 PM

18

TerrY ricHArDsON

PHOTOGrAPHs NeW mODeL seArcH WiNNer micHAeL W iN

summer 2010

A scANDiNAviAN summer

18

TerrY ricHArDsON

PHOTOGrAPHs NeW mODeL seArcH WiNNer LuKe BriGGs iN

summer 2010

A scANDiNAviAN summer