VMAN 19

Page 1

19

fall 2010

tHe return of tHe maSCuline male lead

joSH brolin Star of Wall Street and You Will Meet a tall Dark Stranger

in Comme deS GarรงonS Homme PluS watCH david yurman PHotoGraPHed by Hedi Slimane

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MAN AT plAy: A STIll lIFE AT

16 YEARS OLD CAP LANVIN BAG MARC BY MARC JACOBS SNeAKeRS Y-3 HeADPHONeS WESC SKATeBOARD SUPREME USB DRive VICTORINOx SWISS ARMY WATCH SWATCH

CONTENTS 22

COVER STORY 88 JOSH BROLIN With starring roles in two of this fall’s biggest films, the actor is finally riding the Hollywood wave with ease PROFILES 33 FAMILY MAN Aaron Johnson prepares for the role of a lifetime 36 A MAD, MAD LIFE After twenty years in the business, John Slattery is just getting started 38 OSCAR WINNER’S CHOICE Actor Harrison Gilbertson takes Hollywood seriously 40 KELE FROM THE BLOC Bloc Party singer Kele Okereke indulges in his newfound independence

48 THE OTHER WORLD CUP Catch the stars from our first-annual Male Model World Cup 50 DRINK BY THE NUMBERS The ultimate list for a lifetime of happy hours 52 THE HEF IN 10 PICTURES The Playboy founder shares his favorite moments caught on film STYLE 55 A NEW HERITAGE Woolrich designer Daiki Suzuki passes the torch 56 FALL ESSENTIALS The best new ways for men of every age to stay warm and still look cool

42 INDIE’S NEW IT-BOY Nathaniel Brown’s acting debut is a total trip

60 VMAN NEWS From designer debuts and digital accessories to seasonal scents and special-edition speedboats, it’s the best of what’s fresh for fall

44 FILMING OF AGE Required viewing: twenty formative films for boys to men

66 DRESS YOUR AGE Men’s fashion fit for every stage and every phase

46 THE NEW AUTEUR Provocative French director Romain Gavras makes his fiery big screen debut

71 THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH They’re not magic, but these potions can help you keep your boyish good looks



MAN AT SCHOOL: A STILL LIFE AT

21 YEARS OLD FOliO LOUIS VUITTON SweATeR LACOSTE GlASSeS JOHN VARVATOS key chAin And dice PAUL SMITH FRAGRAnce JOHN VARVATOS ARTiSAn FlASk DUNHILL ShAvinG RAzOR GROOMING LOUNGE

CONTENTS 24

72 THEN & NOW Richard Burbridge unearths his fashion photo time capsule 76 FOR THE BOY WHO WANTS EVERYTHING… AND THE MAN WHO HAS IT Toiletry kit essentails, whether you’re traveling for business or pleasure 78 THE SORRENTI CODE Angelo Sorrenti drafts the blueprint for the perfect body—no magic required 80 VMAN MOMENTS Our favorite photographers, figures, fashions, and faces from the first seven years 104 PORTRAIT OF A PHOTOGRAPHER Richard Avedon, Steven Meisel, and Jean-Paul Goude—on the other side of the lens 144 THE WORLD’S FIRST MALE SUPERMODEL Jeff Aquilon may have eased out of the model life, but you’d never know by looking at him 158 WRESTLE AGAINST TIME Arrive fashionably, but never late

FASHION 92 110 122 130 138 150 154

A DAY ON WALL STREET BY JOSH OLINS MOTHER & SON BY SEBASTIAN FAENA MEN IN THE HOOD BY CEDRIC BUCHET BOYS TO MEN BY WILLY VANDERPERRE DOUBLE TAKE BY KARL LAGERFELD THE WINTER OF OUR LIVES BY BEN TOMS HEARTBREAKERS BY RICHARD BURBRIDGE

On The cOveR, JOSh BROlin weARS SuiT COMME DES GARçONS HOMME PLUS ShiRT COMME DES GARçONS SHIRT wATch DAVID YURMAN cOveR PhOTOGRAPhy hedi SliMAne STylinG JAy MASSAcReT GROOMinG ciM MAhOney (The wAll GROuP) PhOTO ASSiSTAnTS FRAnk TeRRy, BARReTT SweAGe, MARiO SAnchez STyliST ASSiSTAnTS OliviA kOzlOwSki And JAcquelyn JOneS diGiTAl TechniciAn kAT AndRewS (SMAShBOx diGiTAl) PROduceR kiM POllOck PROducTiOn ASSiSTAnT GRAnT ShuMATe lOcATiOn SMAShBOx STudiOS, lOS AnGeleS POST PROducTiOn dTOuch



MAN AT work: A STILL LIFE AT

48 yearS old TIES hicKey Freeman NOTEBOOK AND SHOES tom Ford PEN (INSIDE NOTEBOOK) montblanc CuFF LINKS Gucci GLOVES paul Smith KEY CHAIN dunhill FRAGRANCE prada INFuSION DE VETIVER BRIEFCASE louiS vuitton WATCH david yurman MOBILE PHONE dior

Editor-in-Chief/ Creative Director Stephen Gan

Editor

vman19 26

Jacob brown

Consulting Creative/ Design Direction

Associate Editors

GreG Foley

chriStopher bartley Karin nelSon

Art Director Sandra KanG

Managing Editor emma reeveS

Advertising Directors

Design

JorGe Garcia jgarcia@visionaireworld.com GiorGio pace gpace@visionaireworld.com

cian browne maryellen mcGoldricK

Advertising Manager

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Assistant Photo and Bookings Editor evelien JooS

Executive Assistant/ Special Projects Editor

Francine wonG fwong@visionaireworld.com

Steven chaiKen

Contributing Editor/ Entertainment GreG KrelenStein StarworKS

Advertising Assistant

Senior Fashion Editor

Senior Fashion News and Special Projects Editor

646.747.4545

Jay maSSacret

Fashion and Market Editors yuKi JameS catherine newellhanSon

vicKy beniteS vbenites@visionaireworld.com

Online Advertising

dereK blaSberG

yale breSlin yale@vmagazine.com

Contributing Style Editor

646.452.6021

danica lo

Contributing Fashion Editors Joe m c Kenna nicola Formichetti olivier rizzo beat bolliGer clare richardSon Stevie weStGarth

Financial Comptroller Art Editor

Assistant Comptroller Special Projects Kyra GriFFin dominic Sidhu Javier bone-carbone Stephen Smith

Farzana Khan

Administrative Assistant annie hinShaw

Production Director

Fashion Editor-at-Large panoS yiapaniS

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Simon caStetS

Communications

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StarworKS

Distribution

Fashion Assistant niKKi iGol

Creative Imaging Consultant

Guest Casting Director

paScal danGin

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Online Editor yale breSlin

andrew weir

vman 19 Hedi Slimane Karl Lagerfeld Josh Olins Sebastian Faena Mario Sorrenti Terry Richardson Willy Vanderperre Cedric Buchet Richard Burbridge Robbie Spencer Ben Toms Adam Whitehead Patrick Mackie Shu Akashi Julia Restoin Roitfeld Toby McFarlan Pond Joseph Donnelly Alex Needham John Norris Mark Jacobs Anthony Kaufman Elliott David Jason Rowan Paul Maffi Ken Baldwin Martha Glass Lester Garcia Cameron Krone Tom Van Dorpe Patrik Sandberg Tetsuhara Kubota James Block Dom Smith Kristian Schmidt Special thanKS Art Partner Giovanni Testino Amber Olson Neil Cooper Sally Borno Kona Mori Lindsey Steinberg Katie Fash Katherine Marre Pauline Vanthournout CLM Erick Ruales Heath Cannon Cale Harrison Nick Bryning Simon Malivindi Art + Commerce Lindsay Thompson Etta Meyer Toby Bannister Virginie Laguens Yann Rzepka Kim Pollock Intrepid Anya Yiapanis Stephanie Chan Helena Benjafield Management Artists Anne Du Boucheron Aurelie Mangiaracina Brydges Mackinney Jasmine Kharbanda Ford NY Sam Doerfler Jesse Simon Jason Kanner Kevin Apana Greg Chan Alisa Post Anthony Bourgois Carmelo Pizzuto Maher Naser Carlos Paz Gina Barone Patricia Lejeune Samuel Zakuto Jason Duzansky Grace Rothstein Jeffrey Hirsch Shelley Lee The Lichtenstein Foundation Splashlight Studios Yanna Wilson Sandbox Studios Phil Caraway Root TREC Drive24 Phil Caraway Morgan Anderson Aldana Oppizzi Smashbox Studios Nadine Johnson Maya Zawistowska Nora Walsh llili Rice NY The Standard, New York The Mark Hotel, New York Erinmary Barrett Kelly McCauley Mark Mikin internS Julia Brucculieri John Ciamillo Austin Dale Christian Escobar Szonja Fekete Romina Fernandez Katelyn Gray Kate Grella Amber Harris Marina Heintze Samantha Heydt Stefan Knecht Hayley Koustis Molly Mamourian David McGovern Alex O’Neill Karin Öström Margaret Park Soojin Park Jaclyn Reyes Kay Siongco Gillian Tozer Larissa Whitney Karen Wisdom

Visionaire Copy Editor traci parKS

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ART DIRECTIOn AnD PROP STyLInG STEPHEn SMITH PHOTOGRAPHy JACLyn REyES FASHIOn EDITOR nIKKI IGOL

MAN AT HIS BEST: A STILL LIFE AT

65 years old PICTuRE FRAME bottega Veneta TuMBLER ralph lauren home ASHTRAy hermès DECAnTER tiffany & co. FRAGRAnCE tom ford OuD WOOD POCKET SquARE (TOP) AnD PORTFOLIO lanVin POCKET SquARE (BOTTOM) AnD SLIPPERS tom ford

foreword 28

The truth is we began working on this issue seven years ago. In April of 2003, the year VMAN was launched, Richard Burbridge photographed then up-and-coming models Brad Kroenig and RJ Rogenski. Instead of printing the photos, we set them aside and saved them. Seen here in VMAN 19 for the first time, they are presented alongside new portraits taken a few months ago. The years have treated these two guys well—they’re models after all (exercise and good grooming routines help in this regard, and this issue offers you plenty of advice on both). But although their “now” pictures look just as good as their “then” shots, the two have clearly grown up. It’s in the eyes. They’re men. And that’s what coming of age is about: knowing yourself, becoming who you want to become. There are many ways to get there. The issue opens with a profile of actor Aaron Johnson. He’s young. He just turned 20. And yet recently he had his first child, and is engaged to an older, much older woman— the 43-year-old director Sam Taylor-Wood. At the other end of the age spectrum, we get to hear 84-year-old Playboy founder Hugh Hefner’s perspective. Actually, mostly we get to see it. From his scrapbook he shares some amazing pictures that show his journey from boyhood to manhood. Even at 14, you can see a certain glint that tells you this guy is going to change the world. Then there’s our cover star, Josh Brolin, photographed by Hedi Slimane. A man’s man if we ever met one, Brolin splits his time between surfing and

making brilliant films—including Oliver Stone’s Wall Street sequel and Woody Allen’s You Will Meet a Tall Dark Stranger, both out in September. At 42, he’s the oldest celebrity to ever appear on a VMAN cover, but you’d never know that talking to him (or reading the interview). And who cares anyway. This is the kind of guy we all want to grow up to be. When it comes to fashion, coming of age serves as a great inspiration. Josh Olins imagines the exciting life of a few freewheeling finance types—the sort that thrived back in the ’80s of the original Wall Street. Sebastian Faena paints an amazing portrait of Lynne Koester, the iconic late ’80s supermodel, and her son Paolo Anchisi; Cedric Buchet introduces some rough-and-tumble working men; Willy Vanderperre crafts a quiet moment of reflection; and Karl Lagerfeld double exposes a few of today’s most iconic male models. In a nostalgic moment, we salute Richard Avedon, Jean-Paul Goude, and Steven Meisel—three men (geniuses?) whose works have stood the test of time. And Hedi Slimane visits with Jeff Aquilon, the first true male supermodel. It’s been thirty years, but he’s still got it. And really that’s what it’s all about. Life is intense. We race toward new goals, achieve them, and then leave it all behind as the next challenge appears in the distance. With our perspective constantly shifting, the world always seems young, and through it all we learn. So give the issue a read, and hopefully in seven years we’ll all have aged as well as Brad and RJ. Jacob brown


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ProFileS

Who’S hAPPeNiNg iN PoP culture aaron Johnson PhotograPhed By hedi sliMane 33


VmeN

FAmily mAN

Barely out of his teens, actor aaron Johnson is a father and a fiancé. and he’s Just getting started Five days after his 20 th birthday, Aaron Johnson is wolfing down a burger

in North London, his mind on the approaching birth of his first child. (Johnson and artist Sam Taylor-Wood welcomed daughter Wynda-Rae on July 7.) “I’m ready,” he says, beating his chest Tarzan-style. “Everything’s prepared at home; we’ve got all this gear; we’re just waiting for the contractions to start and then we can get on with it.” The pair will get married next year, and then Johnson wants more kids. “Five or eight,” he (possibly) jokes. So what kind of father will he be? “A fucking brilliant one, obviously,” he shoots back. “What sort of question’s that? Just affectionate and loving and supportive.” It’s been a momentous few years for Johnson. He’s made four films in quick succession. One of them, Kick-Ass, made him a Hollywood star. Another, Nowhere Boy, in which he plays a young John Lennon, changed his life: Johnson fell in love with Taylor-Wood, its director. Naturally, the fact that he was 18 and she 41 meant that the British tabloids had a field day, but Johnson’s demeanor casts serious doubt on their gleeful predictions that all will end in tears; he can’t wait to be a father. This autumn, America finally gets to see Nowhere Boy, Taylor-Wood’s directorial debut. The release coincides with what would have been John Lennon’s 70 th birthday, and Johnson worked hard to embody rather than do an “imitation” of the teenage Beatle torn between his mother and his aunt. Johnson was rewarded with compliments from Yoko Ono and critical acclaim, though the film wasn’t a commercial success in the U.K., a fact Johnson attributes to the fact that it came out on Boxing Day, up against Avatar and Sherlock Holmes. Johnson’s not a huge fan of modern films. “There’s a lot of scripts nowadays that you think, How the fuck does this get made? They’ve turned it all into romcoms and stuff. It’s like our music, it’s all pop. It’s all, like, pretty crummy.” He grimaces when I mention the last film he made, Chatroom, which got terrible reviews at Cannes: “Don’t go there. It is what it is.” Having recently had the “shit realization” that he’s already made more films than his hero Daniel Day-Lewis, Johnson’s vowed to be more choosy about the roles he picks. “I also look at things in a bigger way now. I’ve got a family, you know? I’ve got a fiancée and two beautiful girls [TaylorWood’s two daughters by gallerist Jay Jopling] and one on the way. And I don’t want to be away from them.” He and Taylor-Wood have been together for two years, but Johnson remembers going to the Tate and seeing her work before that. “The fruit that was mouldering away with the Biro on the side—I remember that being the only image that stayed in my mind. It’s really odd. It’s like we already had a connection.” The way he tells it, his relationship with Taylor-Wood has insulated him from the temptations to which many young actors fall prey. “You can’t do shit like that, not if you want to work professionally and be taken seriously,” he says. “Don’t turn up to work fucked up, it’s just wrong. Just being with Sam, our relationship’s so strong there’s no need to do shit like that.” Having got stardom out of the way so early, he’s ready to tackle the important stuff—being a great actor, and a dad. “You don’t have to rush into anything,” he explains. “Time’s precious, man.” Alex NeedhAm AARON JOHNSON, 20, IN LONDON, JULY 2010 PhotogrAPhy hedi SlimANe pHOTO ASSISTANT JORDAN gRANT EqUIpmENT RENTAL SpRINg LIgHTINg LOCATION BROWN’S HOTEL (LONDON) SEE mORE OF AARON JOHNSON AT vmAN.COm


“time’S PreciouS, mAN.” –AAroN JohNSoN


vmen

Mad Men’s John slattery is not a hedonist. he Just plays one on tV

if there is a line to cross, then roger sterling—the unapologetic, alcoholic, philanderer-turned-wife-abandoner, rabble-rouser, most loveable bastard in amc’s Mad Men—has long since crossed it. it’s now simply a fading horizon left in the dust by his proud strut. but for 48-year-old actor john slattery, the only horizon he sees is the expanse of future potential ahead of him. With two emmy nominations under his belt (both for sterling), the perfectly silver-haired slattery is finally on the big ups. a surfer for many years and cigarette free for a decade, slattery isn’t remotely the vodka for breakfast with a 36

side of chain smoking, double-heart-attacked physiological lunatic hedonist he portrays. roger sterling’s total lack of shame, which might be what makes him so lovable, and which slattery pulls off with honesty and graceful hilarity, is pure cartoon. “everybody has shame and secrets, but i guess the honesty or the maturity as you get older is to be okay with it, to be able to admit the fact that you’re ashamed of something about yourself. i don’t exactly walk around sticking my head in the sand,” he says. “i’m different people on different days, like everybody.” unlike his Mad Men character, who inherited success from his father, slattery’s been grinding out a career in tv for over twenty years, with roles on Sex and the City, Desperate Housewives, and Will & Grace. “i feel a lot of

potential right now,” slattery says. “i just started prep

on my second episode directing Mad Men. i just finished

writing a screenplay, which i’d like to get made. i don’t know, maybe i’m a late bloomer.” elliott dAvid john slattery, 48, at the roosevelt in los anGeles, auGust 2010 PhotogrAPhy PAul mAffi Styling ken bAldwin left: overcoat dunhill shirt rAf SimonS sunGlasses bAnAnA rePublic riGht: suit Jil SAnder shirt rAf SimonS Glasses rAy-bAn

GroominG DaviD cox for reDken for men (celestineaGency.com) stylist assistant elizabeth rennie location the roosevelt, los anGeles special thanks kristen terry (joy asbury proDuctions)

A mAd, mAd life


ava i l a b l e at f i n e d e pa r t m e n t s t o r e s a n d m a r c j a c o b s b o u t i q u e s


VMen

oscar Winner’s choice When AcAdemy AWArd-Winning Writer dustin LAnce BLAck Announced his directoriAL deBut, young Actor hArrison giLBertson took note

HARRISOn GILBERTSOn, 16, In nEw YORk, JUnE 2010 photography terry richardson styling lester garcia SHIRT Versace GLASSES TERRY’S Own FRAGRAnCE Versace Man EAU FRAîCHE READ MORE ABOUT GILBERTSOn On VMAn.COM

38

GROOMInG LOSI (THE wALL GROUP) LIGHTInG TECHnICIAn SETH GOLDBERG PHOTO ASSISTAnTS nICOLE TAPPA AnD nICk SETHI RETOUCHInG BRIAn zEIGLER

“I’ve been really lucky.” It’s an assessment uttered several times by Gilbertson, on the phone from his home halfway around the world in Adelaide, Australia. The 16-year-old actor has, in only a couple of years, shared the screen with names like Geena Davis and Miranda Otto. This month he’ll appear at the Toronto Film Festival, costarring with Jennifer Connelly, Ed Harris, and Amy Madigan in What’s Wrong With Virginia? directed by Milk’s Oscarwinning screenwriter, Dustin Lance Black. That Gilbertson landed the role of Emmett, the son of Connelly’s emotionally unstable title character, on the strength of his videotaped audition alone isn’t merely a lucky break. And it’s more than luck that persuaded luminaries like Davis, Black, Anjelica Huston, and Virginia executive producer Gus Van Sant to write to U.S. immigration authorities to help Gilbertson secure a work visa. Gilbertson has come to be known within certain circles as one of young Hollywood’s more intelligent, serious actors, with five films dealing with war, race relations, family crises, and disaffected youth—nary a teen sex romp, vampire flick, or superhero vehicle among them. “That’s not really what I see myself doing,” he explains. “I choose what I audition for, and if I’m not passionate about something, I wouldn’t want to waste my time or anyone else’s.” Such forthright declarations have earned Gilbertson a reputation as “too intense” by some casting directors, to which he replies, “I’m okay with that.” Comparisons to such brooding talents as Leonardo DiCaprio, Emile Hirsch, and the late, great River Phoenix also sit well with the actor. “It’s about what you relate to in terms of the script and the character,” he says, “whether it’s art house or more mainstream. But I think I’ve had a realization that this is a business. If that film you respond to happens to be big, with a really massive budget, I wouldn’t be like ‘Oh, no...’” Still, even with five more projects in the next year for which he says he is “in the mix,” don’t expect to see Harrison Gilbertson in fangs, or tights and a cape any time soon. John norris



Vmen

Kele From The Bloc for much of the past decade he has lent his plaintive voice to the urgent, jagged post-punk of Bloc Party. now Kele okereke is lending it to his first solo project. seated at a café on new york’s east side discussing his new album, The Boxer, okereke is more of the dry jokester than pugilist. Where his jokes end and his wind-up-thewriter begins, is often hard to discern. on his band’s decision to take some time off: “i was like, screw you, assholes! i’m gonna go do this by myself! and we haven’t spoken since.” on their reaction to his record: “they’re really jealous. apparently our guitar player russell got so annoyed that he punched a hole in the window in his house.” and, on his buff new bod on full shirtless display in The Boxer’s first video, “tenderoni”: “yeah i’ve been taking steroids, just so, you know, i look good.” (for the record, okereke says no to ’roids, though he works out like a fiend when he’s on the road, because “it’s better than being drunk and hung over all the time;” and russell is so mild-mannered that Kele can’t imagine 40

him punching a hole in anything.) The Boxer is raw, funky, dirty, and danceable. “everyone’s been making a big deal about how this is an ‘electronic’ record, but i think it’s more than that,” Kele demurs. “and anyway, i wanted there to be limitations. i didn’t really want to start with guitars. i wanted to put myself in a place i’d never been.” more than anything, okereke is proud of having made a record that contrasts with Bloc Party’s often “melancholy” offerings, a reflection, he says, of being almost 30 and feeling more comfortable with life. nowhere is that spirit more apparent than on “rise,” a highlight of The Boxer that starts off lightly, with electronics and marimbas and a dramatic and empowering lyric: “Brothers, sisters come with me/ unto the light/ you are stronger than you think” that eventually builds into a raucous dance-floor stomper. and then there’s “tenderoni,” the album’s first single. the song title refers to the slang for a younger (sometimes too young) lover, but okereke downplays that side of the song’s meaning. “it’s more the idea of being with this person—who i suppose would be younger—who’s heading down a path that isn’t quite right. and it’s hard when you care about someone and you can see they’re making mistakes.”

the album’s title carries equally well-thought-out meaning. “i like the fact that boxers have a fighting spirit within them, and they summon this energy even though they know they might get knocked out and it’ll be hard. i think that’s quite inspiring,” he says. But as for the real thing? “you mean like that ultimate fighting? that show is so gross. i can’t believe i see that on tV in the states. i mean that is supposed to be entertainment, some guy getting his face pounded in? that’s not entertainment, that’s a sign of a corrupt society, i think.” not that he has a problem with all american television. “i love Bravo!” he exclaims. “how do i get a show on Bravo?” When i remind him that a Kele reality show just might require a bit more openness than he is generally willing to give up, he concedes, “i know. But that’s why i’m writing a book at the moment about my erotic experiences on tour. so maybe now Bravo will come knocking. i hope so.” such a kidder. or is he? John norris Kele oKereKe, 28, in neW yorK, June 2010 PhoTograPhy cameron Krone sTyling Tom Van DorPe JacKet and Jeans conVerse By John VarVaTos t-shirt oKereKe’s oWn see more from Kele oKereKe on Vman.com

GroominG John mcKay for Kiehl’s (de facto inc) Photo assistant christoPher artz

already one of the world’s biggest rock stars, bloc Party’s kele okereke PrePares to conquer the world all over again



vmen

IndIe’s new It-boy With his very first role the lead in a seminal director’s hotly anticipated next film, nathaniel BroWn sets his sights high

“I’m high for the whole film,” jokes actor Nathaniel Brown, “literally through the entire movie.” He’s referring to the waking dream, drug, and death

states of Oscar, the character he portrays in Gaspar

Noé’s highly anticipated film, Enter the Void. The director’s follow-up to 2002’s celluloid rape allegory, Irreversible, proves nothing short of a visually paralyzing hallucination chronicling the death of Brown’s drug-dealing, DMT-smoking narrator. “Just to be clear, we were not allowed to do any drugs during shooting,” Brown adds. “The punishment for being caught with drugs in Japan is intense.” Just look at poor, doomed Oscar, who is shot and killed by Japanese drug enforcement agents within the movie’s first act, jump-starting the postmortem coil of Void’s story arc. Filmed from Oscar’s first-person POV, the experience proved invaluable for a first-time performer. “I’d wanted to be an actor or director my entire life. I grew up with movies,” Brown says with excitement. Fitting, then, that in his first role, the lead actor got to see just as the director saw. “The audience is inhabiting me, you’re in my head,” he explains. “I’m inhabiting Gaspar, so I guess, in essence, you get to be Gaspar as well.” Next, Nathaniel hopes to continue learning to develop more detailed characters on-screen, and to one day realize his dream of directing. He recently starred in a short film titled Blinders (a project close to VMAN’s heart, it was directed by this magazine’s editor, Jacob Brown, who worked with renowned cinematographer Bobby Bukowski). And he has two or three feature film roles he is considering. “If the only thing I can take away from [Enter the Void] is the fact that I am in the industry now, then I’m happy. You know?” If not, there’s probably a drug for that. PatrIk sandberg NATHANIel BrOwN, 22, IN lOs ANGeles, NOVeMBer 2009 PhotograPhy hedI slImane

Enter the Void is out in september 2010 from IFC Films 42



film

Dazed and Confused (1993) Richard Linklater The marijuana-fueled ’70s-set film captures the essence

of youth’s absurdity and cruelty, along with a laid-back dose of Texas-style Americana.

Kids (1995) Larry Clark The ultimate fuck you to Hollywood’s vision of growing up served as a reset button for the genre. Rushmore (1998) Wes Anderson A pumping ’60s sound track (The Who, Cat Stevens), inestimable dry wit, and one of the best tales of young comeuppance this side of The Graduate. Rebel Without a Cause

Donnie Darko (2001) Richard Kelly

filming of age It’s through fIlm that we learn how to grow Into the men we want to be. 20 such fIlms worth watchIng agaIn text anthony Kaufman

Somewhe young Jake Gyllenhaal’s brilliantly conceived

apocalyptic trip into adolescent anxiety.

Y Tu Mamá También (2001) Alfonso Cuarón Mexico’s high society and remote hinterlands are fertile ground for subtle political commentary, psychological awakening, and the steamy story of two boys bedding a hot older woman.

Zéro de Conduite (1933) Jean Vigo

American Graffiti (1973) George Lucas

Set in a French dormitory, cinema’s seminal images of childhood rebellion include adolescents rampaging on beds as an explosion of pillow feathers engulfs the room in surreal slow motion.

A galaxy far, far away from Star Wars: 1962 youth cul-

Napoleon Dynamite (2004) Jared Hess

ture in Modesto, California, where drive-ins, sock-hops, and cruising down the avenue in a ’58 Chevy looking for the blonde girl of your dreams is as good as life will ever get.

This offbeat ultra-indie full of freaks and geeks climaxes

Rebel Without a Cause (1955) Nicholas Ray “You’re tearing me apart,” wails the young James Dean to his misunderstanding parents in the iconic tale of teen angst. The 400 Blows (1959) François Truffaut Teen dreamer Antoine Doinel can’t catch a break: his

teacher berates him; he gets caught stealing a typewriter; and his parents send him to reform school. Truffaut was so absorbed by the unfairly wronged youth that he followed actor Jean-Pierre Léaud through four subsequent movies.

with a moment of inspirational disco dancing that would give comfort to outcasts everywhere. Vote for Pedro!

The Squid and the Whale (2005) Noah Baumbach Badlands (1973)

Jesse Eisenberg’s awkward faux-maturity embodies mod-

Terrence Malick Martin Sheen and Sissy Spacek play teenage

ern coming-of-age in innumerable movies. But in Noah Baumbach’s Brooklyn-children-of-divorce-dramedy, he captures the essence of youthful confusion—and the awe of the Museum of Natural History—so well.

rebels on the run, but in this beautifully shot sobering twist, true romance combines with a grisly cross-country killing spree.

The Breakfast Club (1985) and Ferris Bueller’s Day Off (1986) John Hughes What needs even be said?

The Graduate (1967) Mike Nichols Against the backdrop of America’s rising countercul-

ture, Dustin Hoffman defined coming-of-age in the ’60s when he asked, “Mrs. Robinson, are you trying to seduce me?”

Stand by Me (1986) Rob Reiner “You guys wanna go see a dead body?” So begins the

fabled Stephen King classic in which four 12-year-old

boys (River Phoenix, Wil Wheaton, Corey Feldman, and Jerry O’Connell) make their way through the wilderness

on an adventure that will change them forever.

The Twilight Saga (2008–?) Who knew vampires would be such a pressing emblem

Au Revoir les Enfants (1987) Louis Malle The ultimate story of innocence lost, Malle’s semi-autobi-

ographical tale follows youngsters at a French parochial boarding school—among them, three Jews hiding from the Nazis—during the waning days of WWII. 44

for the troubles of youth in the digital age? The melodramatic adventures of Bella and otherworldly paramour Edward Cullen play out with an Adrenalin shot at every turn—which is, after all, a pretty accurate estimation of how it all feels.


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film

the new Auteur Provocative director romain Gavras Goes from music video to the biG screen

46

VInCEnT CASSEL AnD TWo oF HIS CoSTARS In FILM STILLS FRoM THE FoRTHCoMInG Our Day Will COme

“Everything is political,” says Romain Gavras, the music video maven whose bold spots for Justice’s “Stress” and M.I.A.’s “Born Free” sparked enough controversy to make him one of the most reviled—and admired—up-andcoming filmmakers in Europe today. “In France, people on the Left said I was a racist cunt and people on the Right said I was an anarchist cunt,” he says on the phone from London, where he splits his time between his native Paris. “It was fun to be hated by both sides.” Though the videos are short, they sure pack a punch: In “Stress,” urban street punks rampage through the streets of Paris, looting, vandalizing, and assaulting passersby with vérité immediacy. In “Born Free,” Gavras opts for a more stylized vision of oppression, as an army of riot

police round up and slaughter redheaded boys. Gavras, and air-raid sirens) it looks as distinctive and contro29, doesn’t like to explain his videos or his motives, but versial as his video work. (“I don’t explain everything,” he acknowledges the influences of his father, famed he says of the new film. “You just have to embrace it Greek filmmaker Costa-Gavras, who made the highly and let yourself go.”) political ’70s films Z and State of Siege. “I have a very Inspired by filmmakers as diverse as Italian compolitical background,” he admits. “When I was younger, edy director Dino Risi, surrealists Federico Fellini and I wanted to be a president. But presidents don’t have Luis Buñuel, and British docufiction provocateur Peter power, so then I wanted to be a dictator.” Watkins, Gavras says he’s now getting a lot of scripts But Gavras says politics is far more complicated now from Hollywood. “But nothing that is really appealing,” than when his father was making films (“Even a Britney he says. As a “proud European,” and because he has Spears video is political,” he quips). “Back in those days, plenty of commercial work—next stop, Montreal to shoot the line between what’s good and what’s wrong was clear, a commercial for a sportswear brand—he’d rather choose but now, it’s way more blurry,” he says. “To say that you creative freedom over “Hollywood money,” he says. “The can change the world with a film is pretentious.” next film I’m going to make will be like the first one: a small So for now, Gavras appears to be settling for artistic film where I have total control of everything, and,” he adds, provocation. He just finished his first feature, Our Day “where I can have some fun.” Anthony K AufmAn Will Come, which stars Vincent Cassel, and judging from the audacious teaser trailer (sex, head-bashing, SEE MoRE FRoM RoMAIn GAVRAS on VMAn.CoM



tournament major’s lucho jacob shows off some fancy footwork

team captain oraine barrett puts some major muscle behind this forward pass

no shirts? no shin guards? no problem! these boys weren’t afraid to rough it up

victory has never looked better

major and dna give new meaning to the phrase “good game”

the other world cup

south africa drew a bigger crowd, but nowhere was the 2010 soccer season hotter than in new york city at vman’s first-ever male model world cup. outfitted in gear from hummel, top guys from ford, new york models, dna, vny, request, and major took the field for the memorial day weekend tournament. the competition was fierce, but only major had the winning moves. get a glimpse of them here; see much more on vman.com photography Kristian schmidt

48

barrett shows off his captain’s swagger


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EquipmEnt rEntal DrivEin24 SpEcial thankS crEativE ExchangE agEncy

drink by the numbers

a man’s drink of choice has long defined and inspired him. it should do the same for you. here’s a guide to keeping it age appropriate

editor jason rowan

21 22 23

years old years old Best had in quantity $1

impress dates with a bottled import $3

years old

years old

24

years old

years old

years old

31

years old

time to order by name, no more well drinks $22

mid-20s anglophilia $28

stop shooting. start sipping $28

ready for the top shelf, with extra olives $40

on the rocks, never mixed $36

suddenly the gin martini seems perfect $28

38 41 46

years old years old years old 50

time to discover a grown-up ale $12

you’ve arrived and you’re entitled to strut $220

take it neat, on the veranda, in a straw hat $125

26 28

34

years old

52

years old

58

years old

67

years old

80

should cost less than the crystal you’re drinking from $60

for special occasions. like a tuesday $109

connoisseurship takes on new meaning $399

for those who’ve earned fuck-you money $16,000



BIOPIC

1953 Holding a copy of my very first issue of Playboy

AUGUST 9, 1959 At the Playboy Jazz Festival in Chicago with the legendary Ella Fitzgerald

JANUARY 2009 New Year’s Eve at the Playboy Mansion with my girlfriend Crystal Harris

DECEMBER 1940 My nickname back then was “Goo Heffer”

FEBRUARY 17, 1970 The first flight for my DC-9 jet, the Big Bunny

AUGUST 5, 1978 Saving the Hollywood sign. I staged events to raise funds in order to replace this venerable piece of history

APRIL 9, 1986 With old pals Warren Beatty and Jack Nicholson at my big 60 th birthday bash

1953 At the typewriter in my South Side Chicago apartment

FEBRUARY 29, 1960 In Chicago at the opening of the first Playboy Club

THE HEF IN 10 PICTURES 52

APRIL 8, 2005 Casablanca Night at the Playboy Mansion

AN ICON OF OUR TIMES, HUGH HEFNER, 84, REVOLUTIONIZED MEN’S MAGAZINES, PARTYING, FEMINISM, AND FREE SPEECH. HE ALSO LIVES AN ENVIABLE LIFE LIKE NO OTHER. YES, THE PLAYBOY MANSION IS HIS HOUSE! HERE MR. HEFNER SHARES WITH US A FEW KEY MOMENTS FROM THE LAST 70 YEARS OF HIS EXCITING LIFE


Belvedere is a quality choice. Drinking responsibly is too. Belvedere Vodka 40% ALC./VOL. (80 PROOF) 100% neutral spirits distilled from rye grain. ©2010 Imported by Moët Hennessy USA, Inc., New York, NY.

T RU S T YO U R I N S T I N C T S

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F A C E B O O K . C O M / B E LV E D E R E VO D K A


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S Y E STYLE HAIR SHAWN MOUNT (ARTLIST NEW YORK) GROOMING BENJAMIN PUCKEY USING CHANEL (SEE MANAGEMENT) MODELS MATT RAIMO (FORD NY), BRIAN BLANK (NY MODELS), JOHN RAWLINSON (NEXT) PHOTO ASSISTANTS PEDRO KOECHLIN AND LIAM CUSHING RETOUCHING GUILLAUME DULERMO (R&D) LOCATION CANOE STUDIOS, NEW YORK

A NEW HERITAGE IN A FEW SEASONS, WOOLRICH WOOLEN MILLS HAS SET THE BAR HIGH FOR THE WHITE-HOT RESURGENCE OF AMERICAN HERITAGE BRANDS. FOR FALL, THE BAR RISES EVEN HIGHER Your father may have once gone hunting in a red-check,

itchy-wool Woolrich shirt. And his father probably did the same. So it’s suprising to hear Daiki Suzuki, the designer behind Woolrich Woolen Mills for the last fi ve seasons, explain that his Fall collection draws on Japanese designers of the late ’80s like Comme des

Garçons—not exactly a backwoods brand. But some-

thing about Suzuki’s stream jackets and fi eld parkas feels utterly modern. The aesthetic “works subtly as a sort of ‘fashion’ idea, but works equally well as hunting gear,” he explains. Suzuki fans may be disheartened to learn that Spring 2011 will be his last collection. “I feel I have contributed everything I intended to,” he states with characteristic modesty. But it was not an unfriendly split, and Suzuki actually headed up the search for a new Woolen Mills designer, fi nding one in Mark McNairy of J. Press, which is another old American brand. McNairy describes

Suzuki’s work as the “epitome of American outdoor clothing.” But goes on to say, “I do want to shake things up a little. Woolrich has a lesser known history of Ivy League sportswear, and of supplying the U.S. military, which I will incorporate.” PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM WHITEHEAD STYLING PATRICK MACKIE ALL CLOTHING WOOLRICH WOOLEN MILLS GOGGLES (CENTER) NYC MOTORCYCLE FEDERATION GOGGLES (RIGHT) FROM MELET MERCANTILE SEE MORE WOOLRICH WOOLEN MILLS ON VMAN.COM

55


FALL ESSENTIALS ACCESSORIES THAT MAKE THE MAN, NO MATTER HIS AGE

pHoTogRApHy ADAm WHITEHEAD STyLINg pATRICk mACkIE

daniel, 27, wears Hat D&g scarf Hugo coat and jacKet JoHN VARVAToS Pants EmpoRIo ARmANI

andre, 23, wears Hat STEpHEN JoNES FoR CommE DES gARรงoNS HommE pLuS scarf CommE DES gARรงoNS SHIRT jacKet LACoSTE

Karim, 45, wears Hat and scarf SALVAToRE FERRAgAmo coat LouIS VuITToN

HATS & SCARVES 56


© 2010 adidas AG. adidas, the Globe, the 3-Stripes mark and Y-3 are registered trademarks of the adidas Group. Yohji Yamamoto is a registered trademark of Yohji Yamamoto, Inc.

NEW YORK MIAMI LAS VEGAS AT JOAN ShEpp phILAdELphIA AT dEKA AThLETIcS ATLANTA Y-3STORE.AdIdAS.cOM


STYle SluG andre, 23, wears sUit YveS SainT laurenT hat, soCKs, Boots dunhill

daniel, 27, wears JaCKet, shorts, Pants Comme deS GarรงonS homme PluS soCKs WiGWam Boots CeSare PaCioTTi

BooTS 58

hair shawn moUnt (artlist new YorK) GroominG BenJamin PUCKeY UsinG Chanel (see manaGement) models daniel ditomasso, andre Condit (Ford nY), Karim BoUaBdelli (wilhelmina) Photo assistants Pedro KoeChlin and liam CUshinG retoUChinG GUillaUme dUlermo (r&d) loCation Canoe stUdios, new YorK

Karim, 45, wears Coat and sweater Tom Ford Pants Y-3 watCh CarTier soCKs Calvin Klein SoCKS Boots Polo ralPh lauren


NEW INSTRUMENT BR 01 TOURBILLON AIRBORNE . 46 mm . Limited edition 20 pieces . Regulator . 5 days power reserve indicator . Trust index . Titanium case with special carbon ďŹ nish Sapphire caseback . Shagreen strap . Information Bell & Ross: +33 (0)1 55 35 36 00 . information@bellross.com . USA: +1.888.307.7887 . information@bellrossusa.com . www.bellross.com


Versace Men’s Spring/Summer 2011

Martyn Bal wears a leather jacket from his own label

VERSACE’S NEW GOLDEN BOY Flash and pattern, ’80s hair and jewelry, and new-wave and rockabilly styling helped make the Versace Spring 2011 show one of the highlights of the recent European men’s weeks. Behind it all was Donatella Versace’s newly hired men’s collection designer Martyn Bal. An alumnus of Dior Homme (where he assisted Hedi Slimane), Bal’s had stints reinvigorating Verri and running the Burberry Prorsum men’s studio. In 2008 he launched his own eponymous label. Here Bal answers a few questions about his work for Versace and on his personal line. VMAN How did this Versace gig come about? MARTYN BAL Donatella called me in early March of this year and said she was 60

looking for a new menswear designer. A few days later I was jetting to Milan to discuss the future of the house of Versace. When Donatella fi rst told me her ideas about menswear—and, at that same meeting, introduced me to C.E.O. Mr. Ferraris, over a porcelain Versace cup of coffee with a glass of water containing medusa shaped ice cubes—it all turned really exciting. Suddenly I was surrounded by people who all shared one goal: to turn Versace back into a powerful and modern fashion house. VMAN Your first collection was so well researched. MB I was hired one month into the season, which only left us two months to design and produce the collection. This didn’t leave me a lot of time, so I decided to focus on iconic images of the late ’80s. Looking at Bruce Weber’s images of Versace rockabillies felt relevant. I also wanted the collection to be a kaleidoscope of Versace, Versus, and Versace Jeans couture. It is important for Versace to appeal to a younger generation; a generation that might be unfamiliar with the past. I insist on respecting the legacy and I don’t feel I need to reinvent the wheel. Of course, I benefi t from the creative experience of people who have been with the house for decades and even worked with Gianni Versace. VMAN You have your own line as well. What is it like designing two very separate collections at the same time? MB It actually helps me. Where Versace is a romantic take on heroism and about sexy, glamorous clothes, Martyn Bal is borne out of the aesthetics of modernism, constructivism, and futurism. Modernism is about eliminating the unnecessary to defi ne functionality. Constructivism, for me, is about formal experimentations, while futurism embraces a new sensitivity, combining courage, audacity, and revolt. Also, dualities play an important role in my work. It is when two contradicting elements fuse into one idea when it gets exciting for me.


PERFECT SCENTS

CHIC STICK CK d Computer flash rive sh drivess l come disguised a in ed in alll fla g kinds of camoufl u age e r these days. For m o more e mature file storage, ge, the Hermès Flash h Drive s Bracelet holds d up to 8 GB in a slim, m, silver-plated a d metal-and- n Chamonix i n calfskin design es g that looks grown-up whether e put on or plugged gg d in. MARTHA GLASS

P

P E

Fall’s latest fragrances are a heady throwback to, well, last fall. These new scents are a powerful, woodsy, musky trip, perfect for when the weather cools down. Marc Jacobs’s new Bang is an electric blend of woods and spice, featuring vetiver, patchouli, and white moss. Bleu de Chanel is a clean yet sensual mix of citrus and woods, while Odin’s #04 Petrana is a redolent juice of coriander, pink pepper, and cassis. And Comme des Garçons Wonderwood is, you guessed it, an explosion of woody notes, or, as the company describes it, “wood gone mad.” JAMES BLOCK

T M R NEW E W PREPSTER R S MECCA

th

“There’s s that moment right out of college when you get your fi rst job, you move to the city, and everything you wore in college just doesn’t work,” says designer Michael Bastian of his fi rst collection for Gant. Formerly the men’s fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, Bastian founded his eponymous luxury menswear label in 2006. It was immediately well-received, and Bastian was crowned the de facto godfather of the heritage and Americana fashion movement. “Gant’s whole thing is American heritage sportswear, and that’s my thing, too, so it’s a natural fi t,” Bastian says of the American-born, Swiss owned industry giant. “We’re keeping it kind of lifestyle-based—mixing classifi cations: sporty and dressy with a little bit of an athletic edge. I like to think the Gant guy grows up to be the Michael Bastian guy.” DANICA LO Michael Bastian for Gant is available in Gant stores worldwide, gant.com

ROCK THE BOAT HERMÈS, FRAGRANCES, AND BJÖRN BÖRG PHOTOGRAPHY DOM SMITH

At Marc Newson’s 3 rd solo exhibition at Gagosian, “Transport,” you might fi nd yourself longing for a Dolce Vita–inspired Indian summer on the Hudson River. The Australian designer is introducing his own “Aquariva,” the latest version of the mythical speedboat Riva. Think anodized aluminum meets dark wood, showered with prosecco. Act fast: the edition is limited to twenty-two units. SIMON CASTETS

“Marc Newson: Transport” runs September 14– October 23, 2010, at Gagosian, NYC

PRINTED MATTER Basic white briefs are classic, but they can also be damn boring. Björn Borg underwear, bjornborg.com


news

SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME

“Tall Lodge” boots, at 3.1 Phillip Lim stores, 31philliplim.com

Raf Simons has spent 15 years exploring fashion’s transformative properties. This season, he does it again with a range of shape-shifting, modular Velcro garments. Trenches and outerwear come with detachable appendages, while classic suits are affixed and nipped with Velcro tabs at the waist. This fleece T-shirt can be worn as-is or strategically fastened to itself to create slim or asymmetrical silhouettes. Dl Raf Simons fleece T-shirt with Velcro fastenings, at Seven New York

CITY SLOPES Last February, Moncler took over Chelsea Piers for an epic showing of its new Grenoble collection. This fall, the French skiwear label follows up its American momentum with act two: the opening of its first New York store, at 90 Prince Street in Soho. The boutique will house the complete range for men and women, including the Moncler Gamme Bleu collection designed by Thom Browne, and the Grenoble pieces. When the first chill of winter hits, we’ll be the first in line. James Block

X MARkS THE SPOT In the last decade, jeans have been whiskered, washed, stretched, slashed, torn, and bedazzled. But no one has actually made them

sexier. Calvin’s new X Jeans are hi-tech, featuring a stretch-waistband body engineered to sit lower on the hips. The innovative darts

and seams control and sculpt the body for a profile-enhancing,

hip-slimming, leg-elongating look. As Calvin Klein Jeans creative director Kevin Carrigan explains, “It’s seriously sexy, worn close to

the body like a second skin. It was designed using a great denim with a high count of Power Lycra, which also makes it a very comfortable skinny jean with an exceptional ease of movement.” Your average blues will no longer do. Dl X Jeans, at calvinkleinjeans.com 62

ROAD READY For bikers keen on maintaining their fashion cred while saving the environment from carbon emissions, Emporio Armani’s EA7 cruiser bike comes in hunter green and clas-

sic black. It’s available (for $1, 695) exclusively at Armani’s Fifth Avenue store. Dl

RAF SIMoNS, 3.1 PhILLIP LIM, EMPoRIo ARMANI, ANd CALVIN KLEIN JEANS PhoToGRAPhY doM SMITh GRooMING JoANNA LILY WoNG ModEL ALEX o’NEILL (NEXT) MoNCLER PhoToGRAPhY AARoN BERNSTEIN/ThE ShoPhouNd

LACE ’EM UP These “Tall Lodge” boots are one of the choice pairs from Lim’s first complete collection of men’s footwear. They boast sportsman-inspired military styling as well as a transformative feature—the lace-to-fit body has zipper closure on the side and can be worn with or without the detachable shearling tongue. Dl


Photography Broomberg & Chanarin

www.woolrich180.it

www.woolrich.it WOOLRICH JOHN RICH & BROS USA DISTRIBUTION: 460 West Broadway Inc - New York ph: 212.244.6074 info@460wb.com


NEWS

Rockers sit front row at the Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2011 menswear show. From left: Johnny Flynn, Douglas Booth, Matt Gilmour, Alex Watson, Rory Cottam, Sam Fry, and Gwilym Gold

BRIT BEATS “We have collaborated with new and young emerging British bands on many proj-

ects over the years,” says Burberry chief creative offi cer, Christopher Bailey. “We

felt that with the great interaction that we have experienced with our social media website, artofthetrench.com, that we could collaborate with musicians and artists

to put together an incredible group of ongoing acoustic sessions from some of the fi nest talent coming out of the U.K.”

The iconic fashion house has just launched Burberry Acoustic, an ongoing series of fi lmed acoustic performances by unsigned British bands—all handpicked by Bailey himself. So far, the company has worked with Life in Film—whose front man, Samuel Fry, is coincidentally starring in Burberry’s Fall 2010 campaign—Ramona, and Misty Miller. Check out the newest, undiscovered talents over at live.burberry.com, along with Fall-Winter 2010 show footage. DL

64

JUST IN CASE J The VMAN iPad app is out this Fall, and you’ll want a case for your

gleaming Apple device that’s as chic as the content you’re reading.

From left: Salvatore Ferragamo leather case; Louis Vuitton Damier Graphite case; Bottega Veneta intrecciato woven leather case

SISLEY PHOTOGRAPHY GENEVIEVE HANSON IPAD CASE PHOTOGRAPHY DOM SMITH

ABSOLUTE WARHOLA This fall, Sisley E celebrates the art of the motorcycle jacket—literally. The Italian fashion label has A C IN T S U invited artists to reinterpret the iconic wardrobe staple of bikers and bad boys the world over. From Rita Ackermann to Tom Sachs (above right) to Brad Kahlhamer (above left), they have reimagined the jackets in their own image, adding elements of painting, graffiti, and collage. The resulting pieces will be on view at the Andy Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh this October. JAMES BLOCK



dreSS YOur aGe eMbrace YOur inner bOY, Man, Or GentleMan—and the StYle that cOMeS with it Photography tetsuhara kubota Styling Yuki James

from left: Genaro, 19, wears Vest G-Star Jacket adidaS Pants Y-3 sunGlasses OakleY watches Swatch Bracelet MianSai tommy, 22, wears Vest arMani exchanGe sweatshirt adidaS striPed sweater (worn as scarf) Y-3 Pants d&G watch dieSel Bracelet MianSai

the varSitY teenS

ilan, 22, wears Vest and key rinG Y-3 mylar shirt calvin klein cOllectiOn Pants adidaS watch Swatch


from left: christoPher, 21, wears Jacket Paul SMith JeanS t-shirt Marc bY Marc JacObS Pants dieSel black GOld hat and Belt from earlY hallOween Pin from Melet Mercantile Boots h&M Jordan, 17, wears Jacket, shirt, Pants burberrY PrOrSuM shoes bOtteGa veneta mikhael, 19, wears Jacket and Pants dieSel black GOld Pins from Melet Mercantile Boots burberrY PrOrSuM

new recruitS 67


from left: Paul, 30, wears Jacket truSSardi 1911 shirt diOr hOMMe leather Pants dSquared susPenders h&M rinGs david YurMan shoes bOtteGa veneta PhiliP, 30, wears Vest JOhn varvatOS t-shirt t bY alexander wanG Pants diOr hOMMe Belt 3.1 PhilliP liM Bracelet david YurMan shoes bOtteGa veneta Juan, 28, wears Vest verSace shirt and Pants diOr hOMMe rinGs and chain necklace (worn at waist) david YurMan shoes bOtteGa veneta

all socks Pantherella

wOrkinG claSS herOeS


FaShion

alpine gentlemen from left: Damon, 41, wears all clothing anD boots Dolce & gabbana mike, 48, wears sweater anD scarf D&g knit pants Dolce & gabbana boots polo ralph lauren eD, 56, wears carDigan Salvatore Ferragamo thermal Dolce & gabbana pants polo ralph lauren belt ralph lauren boots ceSare paciotti

hair luke baker (see management) grooming tracy alfajora using Dior (joe management) moDels genaro perez, juan hereDia (reD), ilan leas, tommy herD (forD ny), christopher wetmore, mikhael ayoub, paul-anthony nicastro (request), jorDan coulter (Vny), Damon tolstoy (abrams), mike Dale (click), philip huang, eDwarD putnowicz (Dna) photo assistants matsuo kosuke anD anDrea Dematte stylist assistants katelyn gray anD kate grella hair assistant DaViD lopez Digital technician takeshi abe retouching bespoke stuDio casting eDwarD kim (house casting) location fast ashelys



grooming The FounTain oF youTh

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model RobeRt konjic (WilhelminA)

PRoductS, clockWiSe fRom toP: Chanel PRéciSion ultRA coRRection line RePAiR intenSive Anti-WRinkle concentRAte lab SerieS SkincARe foR men Age ReScue eye theRAPy Clinique Skin SuPPlieS foR men m PRotect SPf 21 dAily hydRAtion + PRotection la Prairie cellulAR RevitAlizing eye gel Clinique Skin SuPPlieS foR men Age defenSe foR eyeS lab SerieS SkincARe foR men mAX lS Age-leSS fAce cReAm SiSley All dAy All yeAR eSSentiAl Anti-Aging dAy cARe Kiehl’S fAciAl fuel Age combAt StRengthening moiStuRe gel foR men dior homme deRmo SyStem RePAiRing moiStuRizing emulSion oribe oRiginAl PomAde PhoTograPhy Julia reSToin roiTFeld

71


then & nOW SEVEN yEarS ago richard BurBridgE photographEd two youNg modElS NamEd Brad aNd rJ. wE SEt thE photoS aSidE aS a timE capSulE of a faShioN momENt. it’S rEady to BE opENEd Photography Richard Burbridge Styling Yuki James

then BRad KROenig, age 24, in neW YORK, aPRil 2003 72


nOW age 31 JulY 2010 Jeans and briefs aRmani exchange On hair, umi PROductS Umi Crème


then RJ ROgenSKi, age 21, in neW YORK, aPRil 2003


Jeans CalviN KleiN JeaNs Briefs CalviN KleiN uNderwear

fragrance CalviN KleiN eternity for Men

grooMing Bill WestMoreland (art + coMMerce) Models Brad Kroenig (ford ny), rJ rogensKi (WilhelMina) Photo assistants Michael hauPtMan, Jeff henriKson, KoBy Boafo Printing BoX

Now age 28 July 2010


GROOMING PHOTO ASSISTANT ALEX MUCCILLI DIGITAL TECHNICIAN AND RETOUCHING BEN RICHARDSON LOCATIONS THE MARK HOTEL AND THE STANDARD HOTEL, NEW YORK

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KIEHL’S CROSS-TERRAIN ALL-IN-ONE REFUELING WASH FOR HAIR & BODY REDKEN FOR MEN HARD WAX HIGH RISE GUCCI BY GUCCI SPORT POUR HOMME CLINIQUE SKIN SUPPLIES FOR MEN 2.5 SCRUFFING LOTION DIOR HOMME DERMO SYSTEM MICRO-PURIFYING CLEANSING GEL MALIN + GOETZ EUCALYPTUS DEODORANT SHISEIDO MEN EYE SOOTHER ANTI-DARK CIRCLES GEL GIVENCHY MAN INTENSIVE ANTI-FATIGUE EYE LIFT GLASSES BOTTEGA VENETA

SECOND SHELF, FROM LEFT: TOILETRY CASE (HANGING) LOUIS VUITTON CAMOUFLAGE TOILETRY BAG CALVIN KLEIN BYREDO PARFUMS GREEN BODY WASH WALLET MARC JACOBS TIE PIN MIANSAI KEY CHAIN BOTTEGA VENETA BACKPACK G-STAR CAP AND KEY CHAIN (ON BACKPACK) LANVIN GLOVES PAUL SMITH THIRD SHELF, FROM LEFT: KIEHL’S CROSS-TERRAIN UV SKIN PROTECTOR SPF 50

REDKEN FOR MEN HAIR & BODY WASH MINT RUSH DERMALOGICA EXFOLIATING BODY SCRUB L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL HOMME HIGH FOAM ENERGISING SHAMPOO BUMBLE AND BUMBLE GELLAC SURE-HOLD GEL-LACQUER ON FLOOR: SNEAKERS Y-3 SWEATPANTS DSQUARED


AND THE MAN WHO HAS IT PHOTOGRAPHY TOBY M C FARLAN POND BEAUTY EDITOR CATHERINE NEWELL-HANSON FASHION EDITOR ANGELO DESANTO

THE MARK HOTEL ON SINK, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: SHAVING BOWL AND BRUSH TOM FORD DIOR HOMME DERMO SYSTEM REPAIRING AFTERSHAVE LOTION SHISEIDO MEN ENERGIZING FORMULA ANTI-FATIGUE INSTANT REFRESHER KIEHL’S GENTLY EXFOLIATING BODY SCRUB CHANEL PLATINUM ÉGOÏSTE DEODORANT ORIBE ROUGH LUXURY MOLDING WAX TOILETRY CASE AND RAZOR ACQUA DI PARMA SILK POCKET SQUARE DUNHILL BELT VERSACE CIGARETTE CASE DIOR HOMME

GLOVES SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SUNGLASSES TOM FORD MONEY CLIP DIOR HOMME COTTON POCKET SQUARE DUNHILL CUFF LINKS HICKEY FREEMAN WATCH DAVID YURMAN GIVENCHY MAN INTENSIVE AGE-FIGHTING FORCE LA PRAIRIE ADVANCED MARINE BIOLOGY DAY CREAM SPF 20 CLARINS MEN AGE-CONTROL LINECONTROL CREAM DERMALOGICA MULTIVITAMIN POWER FIRM SK-II FACIAL LIFT EMULSION

SHISEIDO MEN DEEP WRINKLE CORRECTOR FIRMING CREAM LAB SERIES SKINCARE FOR MEN AGE RESCUE FACE LOTION TOILETRY BAG BOTTEGA VENETA ON LEDGE, FROM LEFT: SISLEY EAU DE CAMPAGNE DOLCE & GABBANA THE ONE GENTLEMAN AFTERSHAVE LOTION EDITIONS DE PARFUMS FRÉDÉRIC MALLE VÉTIVER EXTRAORDINAIRE TOM FORD EAU DE PARFUM IN BOIS MAROCAIN

FRÉDÉRIC FEKKAI AGELESS CRÈME LUXE HAIR TREATMENT WHISKEY TUMBLER RALPH LAUREN HOME MARVIS TOOTHPASTE ON TOWEL RACK, FROM LEFT: SILK TIE HERMÈS NAVY WOOL TIE LANVIN IN SHOWER, FROM LEFT: ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA BATH AND SHOWER GEL TOM FORD FOR MEN CLEANSING BAR PRADA INFUSION DE VETIVER BATH AND SHOWER GEL



wORkOuT

THE SORRENTI CODE WHO TURNS FASHION’S BOLDFACED NAMES INTO FASHION’S HOTTEST BODIES? TRAINER ANGELO SORRENTI UNLOCKS THE SECRETS TO THE PERFECT PHYSIQUE

As fashion’s foremost shape-maker, the 32-year-old Italian-born trainer Angelo Sorrenti has a roster of devoted clients (supermodels Daria Werbowy and Lily Donaldson, designer John Galliano, writer Holly Peterson, stylist George Cortina, and photographer Mario Sorrenti—his cousin—among them). “I make every molecule of my clients’ bodies ready; every part of them acts in tandem, and they become twenty years younger,” he explains. Raised in Naples, Sorrenti began an intensive taekwondo mentorship—which included courses in self-healing and Chinese medicine—alongside Olympic champion Antonella La Pietra at age 3. “Martial arts was always my focus,” says Sorrenti. “As a child I used to practice all day. It was an Italian version of The Karate Kid: after leaving the dojo, I would imagine I was a warrior action hero. I’d go spearfishing for octopus off the coast of Sicily. My friends called me the Alien Warrior.” After moving to New York City at age 11, he came under the tutelage of Grandmaster Irving Soto, who was quick to award Sorrenti his 1st degree black belt (today, he is a master 7th degree). In addition to the physical aspects of his training, Sorrenti was also fascinated by ancient Asian warrior nutritional practices, mastering the balance of stamina and rest, hunt and hunger, instinct and sublimation. After returning to Europe and completing a two-part university degree in nutrition and physical education, Sorrenti began working as a trainer, nutritionist, and life coach of sorts to some of Europe’s leading professional athletes. Developing peak performance diet and exercise routines soon gave way to more intensive courses of action—including plans to help clients off dangerous performance-enhancing drugs—that served as the groundwork for his now-famous “Integral Manipulation Program,” which combines individualized blood work, psychological study, detailed nutrition, cardio, strength training, and sleep-cycle management. “I love the human body,” Sorrenti explains. “There’s a parallel between what I do with a client’s body and what da Vinci did with his sculptures—but my practice celebrates the individualized state. I find a person’s core body code, and I engage every molecule of that body to reshape that person into an ideal state. On a mental level, on a spiritual level, and at a core physical level, my clients are their own masters and their own avatars.” This fall, Sorrenti will expand his practice with an AS I AM (Angelo Sorrenti Integral Advanced Manipulation) well-being center, which will feature a full staff of specialists, as well as a host of organic potions, cleanses, and made-to-measure meal options. All of which means Gotham better be ready for a new generation of urban action heroes. DOmINIC SIDHu ANGELO SORRENTI, 32, IN NEW YORk pHOTOgRapHy aND aRTwORk maRIO SORRENTI BRIEfS CalvIN klEIN uNDERwEaR pRO STRETCH JEANS CalvIN klEIN JEaNS BODy SPECIAL THANkS CLuB H fITNESS & SPA, NEW YORk

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VMAN MOMENTS

We didn’t invent the men’s fashion magazine, but We’d like to think We’ve made it more fashionable. for our coming-of-age issue, We look back at the people and things that have made us Who We are. from sports stars to hollyWood actors to fashion fashion fashion, these are but a feW of our favorite things from the first 7 years of vman

ryan lochte photographed by bruce Weber, VMAN 10

cristiano ronaldo photographed by steven klein, VMAN 5

tom brady photographed by inez van lamsWeerde & vinoodh matadin, VMAN 9

david beckham photographed by david sims, VMAN 3

sports heroes Sure, fashion comes first in the VMAN universe, but over the years we’ve welcomed a few sports superheroes to the fold as well. David Sims’s stark 2004 cover of David Beckham made us see the soccer star in a new, sensitive light. Ditto for Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin’s 2007 cover story on Patriots quarterback Tom Brady, who looked perfectly poised and even quite chic in his black-and-white shots. 80

michael phelps and the u.s. sWim team photographed by david mushegain, VMAN 8


THE CAST OF TWILIGHT PHOTOGRAPHED BY DOUG INGLISH, VMAN 11

JOSH HARTNETT PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO, VMAN 6

ORLANDO BLOOM PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID SIMS, VMAN 8

JUSTIN BIEBER PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARK ABRAHAMS, VMAN 17

ADAM LAMBERT PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARK ABRAHAMS, VMAN 17

HAYDEN CHRISTENSEN PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO, VMAN 7

ASHTON KUTCHER PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO, VMAN 10

ALEXANDER SKARSGåRD PHOTOGRAPHED BY INEZ VAN LAMSWEERDE & VINOODH MATADIN, VMAN 18

CHACE CRAWFORD PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO, VMAN 12

STARS VMAN has always been a mix of Hollywood and high fashion. We’ve sought to inject a bit of fun and a lot of male chic into the world of celebrity portraiture, from David Sims’s photographs of Orlando Bloom as a headbanging rocker to Mario Testino’s ode to Buddy Holly on teen idol Chace Crawford. When male celebrities want to have fun, VMAN is the place they want to be.

NICK JONAS PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO, VMAN 17


vman moments

MALE MODEL DISCOVERIES VMAN wouldn’t be VMAN without the models. From Garrett Neff, who made his debut in a 2006 Bruce Weber swimsuit story, to David Gandy, who heralded the return of a masculine male ideal in a 2007 Mario Testino shoot, VMAN has been a venue to see male modeling’s new and next. Also in 2007, Hedi Slimane spotted Simon Nessman and Blaine Cook at an open call and shot them for a twelve-page story. Then in 2008, we launched the VMAN Ford Model Search, which brought to the fore such stars as Petey Wright, AJ Abualrub, and Aiden Andrews.

BLAINE COOK AND SIMON NESSMAN PHOTOGRAPHED BY HEDI SLIMANE, VMAN 9

AJ ABUALRUB PHOTOGRAPHED BY HEDI SLIMANE, VMAN 11

SEAN O’PRY PHOTOGRAPHED BY LUKE IRONS, VMAN 8

GARRETT NEFF PHOTOGRAPHED BY BRUCE WEBER, VMAN 6

AIDEN ANDREWS PHOTOGRAPHED BY PETER LINDBERGH, VMAN 13

PETEY WRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHED BY HEDI SLIMANE, VMAN 11

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BAPTISTE GIABICONI PHOTOGRAPHED BY KARL LAGERFELD, VMAN 16

DAVID GANDY PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO, VMAN 9

CLEMENT CHABERNAUD PHOTOGRAPHED BY WILLY VANDERPERRE, VMAN 7


rs, adam lambert, adrian grenier, afi, africa, after-party, after effects, agnès varda, albert camus, albert kodagolian,

on, ankle injuries, annie clark, annie lennox, anton yelchin, architecture, art, art events, art film, artists, art scene,

bunker, banksy, bar, barbara cole, bar marmont, barry lategan, beer, behind the scenes, behnaz kanani, ben barnes,

bon iver, book, booker prize, books, book signing, botanique, bowers museum, brooke shaden, bueno films, burgers,

affleck, catherine keener, chameleon, charlie le mindu, chelsea hotel, china, chloe, chris cunningham, chris rainier,

d, coffee, conceptual photography, concert, concerts, contemporary art, contests, controversial photography, cook

ce, daniele colombera, daniele tamagni, darwin, dash snow, dave eggers, david collins studio, david covell, david

sign show, devon aoki, dia de los muertos, diane von furstenberg, diddy, diego luna, dig it, digital art, digital ultima,

wntown independent, echo park, echoplex, edita vilkeviciute, egg poacher, elina shatkin, elisha smith-leverock, eliza

nts, exit through the gift shop, experimental jet set, fabien baron, face off 2009, faces of fashion, fahey/klein gallery,

, film, film festival, film lounge after hours, filmmaking, film scores, fine art photography, fine dining, fireworks, first

film, fowler museum, fragrance, franco rubartelli, frank w. ockenfels 3, fred butler, freya estreller, fujiya & miyagi, fun,

ordon ramsay, graffiti, grammys, grammy style studio, graphic design, greek theatre, grizzly bear, gucci, hair stylist, kitty, helmut newton, henry cavill, henry fonda theater, history, holga, hollywood, hollywood arclight, hollywood bowl,

d magazine, i am not a paper cup, ideas, impossible bottles, independent film, indie, indie-pop, indie music, interview jason reitman, jean-françois spricigo, jeaneen lund, jeanne-claude, jenesee center, jennifer hudson, jeremy r. jansen, paul thurlow, jonathan gold, jon brion, joni mitchell, jordan clarke, josé andrés, joseph gordon levitt, juergen teller,

atee sackhoff, kate hudson, kate moss, kate nobelius, katharine ross, kathy lo, katie holmes, katy perry, kcrw, kelis,

monic, la photographers, large-scale art, largo at the coronet, larry sultan, la scene, lasers, la times, lauren vélez,

, liu bolin, live music, live stream, local bands, local design, local music, lomography, los angeles, loss of a teardrop

zine covers, main street, maison martin margiela, make-up, malin akerman, man about town magazine, marc jacobs,

stewart, masks, mass ride, matthias vriens, maurice sendak, max minghella, max records, m cafe, memoir, mert &

adav kander, natalie portman, natasha case, natasha poly, nathan drillot, natural disaster, natural history museum,

w moon, new year’s eve, nicholas hoult, nick cave, nick knight, nicolas jebran, nicole kidman, nigel parry, nightlife,

, pacific design center, palladium, park city, party, pashmina, patrick daughters, patrick ecclesine, patrick petitjean,

rman gallery, pete yorn, philadelphia, philippines, phoenix, photo, photo blogs, photo community, photo event, photo

playlist, poet, polaroid, poolside, pop-up photo shoot, pop-up shop, portraits, pretty pictures blog, pringle of scotland,

& bone, ray-ban sunglasses, reading, recipe, recycling, red camera, redcat, red cross, restaurant, robert downey jr.,

derson, rutina wesley, ruven afanador, ryan mcginley, ryan schude, sølve sundsbø, sade, salazar, sale, sample sale,

culptures, sean sobczak, set decoration, set design, sex & the city2, sharon stone, sheryl nields, ship-in-a-bottle,

box, slow-motion, slr, sls, smashbox cosmetics, smashbox digital, smashbox soiree, smashbox studios, smashbox

paceland, spike jonze, sports photography, st. vincent, stephen jones, stereogum, steven meisel jigsaw puzzle, steve

festival, sundance pop up, sunrise show, sunset boulveard, super super magazine, susan feniger, susan g. komen,

, taylor jacobson, taylor lautner, taylor swift, technology, teebs, teenage paparazzo, television, temperley, temporary

buzz, the film lounge, the gossip, the knife, the misfortunates, the rachel zoe project, the romantics, the white ribbon,

on, tim bret-day, timelapse, tom ford, tom lindsay, tony o., trailer, trailers, travel, travel photography, trends, trevor

r photography, union station, unique los angeles, untitled, urban abstract, urbanscreen, vanocouver, veckatimest,

t, vocals, vogue, vogue italia, volkswagen, volt magazine, vs. magazine, warpaint, waterworks, webcast, week-end,

, wish list, wizard smoke, w magazine, women, wyclef jean, yéle foundation, yeasayer, yu tsai, zócalo public square. yello! a creative culture blog smashboxstudios.com/yello


vman moments

self-portraits Over the years, VMAN has become a place where photographers can play, which often includes turns in front of the lens as well. In 2004, Karl Lagerfeld took us through his weekly wardrobe, which included a lot more than black suits and high-collared shirts. Then in 2008, Mario Testino showed us what his work week looks like, which included him posing with gorgeous supermodels like Gisele BĂźndchen and Natalia Vodianova. Some guys have it all.

karl laGerfeld photoGraphed By karl laGerfeld, VMAN 2

vinoodh matadin photoGraphed By ineZ van lamsweerde & vinoodh matadin, VMAN 2

clockwise, from upper left: mario testino, with Gisele BĂźndchen; kate moss; anGela lindvall, carolyn murphy, and carmen kass; and natalia vodianova. photoGraphed By mario testino, VMAN 8

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THE mosT dirEcTional maGaZinE in mEn’s FasHion cominG soon on THE iPad


60 THOMPSON 6 COLUMBUS GILD HALL THOMPSON SMYTH ROOSEVELT THOMPSON DONOVAN HOUSE SAX SOHO

COLUMBUS CIRCLE

WALL STREET

LOWER EAST SIDE

TRIBECA

HOLLYWOOD

BEVERLY HILLS

WASHINGTON DC

CHICAGO

THOMPSON TORONTO


Men’s fashion takes a grown-up turn, froM wall street power suits to tough guy outerwear. plus legendary Models, iconic photographers, and love across all generations 87


JOSH BROLIN At 42 yeArs old, Josh Brolin hAs come A long wAy since The Goonies. After An enviABle series of roles with the most Accomplished directors in the Business—including woody Allen And oliver stone in films coming out on the sAme dAy this septemBer—he finAlly feels like he’s hit his stride

Photography Hedi Slimane Styling Jay Massacret Text Joseph Donnelly

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Josh brolin, 42, wears Tuxedo, shirT, bow Tie, cuff links Tom Ford ring his own


“AcTINg’S TOugH. IT’S HuMILIATINg. IT’S PuTTINg yOuR ASS OuT THeRe.” –JOSH BROLIN

entirely empathetic—whether he’s playing llewelyn by ethan coen to be staged next spring at st. ann’s Moss, the overmatched everyman in No Country for warehouse in brooklyn, a large venue that can accomOld Men, or Milk’s fractured murderer, san francisco modate the plays’ other stars: pickup trucks. supervisor dan white. brolin last did live theater in 2004 with The Exonerated, The question as to what makes him so relatable is a play by Jessica blank and erik Jensen about death-row pretty much answered when he rolls up at a coffee shop prisoners who were eventually freed by dna evidence. (The in santa Monica on an old-school beach cruiser. beach play was a major factor in then-illinois governor george cruisers are simple, usually fixed-gear bikes favored in ryan’s decision to grant clemency to illinois death-row the past by board-carrying surfers who didn’t have a inmates.) is he nervous about returning to the stage? spare hand to change gears or squeeze brakes, and by “look, every character helps you with the craft because cholos who liked to turn them into lowriders. These days, every character you do, you suddenly think you’ve forgothipsters tend to peddle around on them. ten everything and you’re going to suck. so there’s a fear but brolin isn’t being ironic. he actually is an old-school that’s kind of fun and nice. i mean, it’s not nice at that surfer from back in the day. dressed on a chilly June after- time, but it’s nice in hindsight, you know?” brolin says. noon in a plain, long-sleeve tee, jeans, and a baseball cap, “i don’t know, man, acting’s tough. it’s humiliating. it’s a he has a salt-and-peppery goatee and the lines around weird profession. it’s putting your ass out there.” the eyes and mouth of someone who spends a lot of time everybody knows brolin’s career turned around when smiling and in the sun, probably in tandem. he got the part of llewelyn Moss, the Vietnam Vet who brolin grew up on a ranch in Paso robles, just a half hour stumbles upon the fruits and misfortunes of a drug deal or so over the coastal range from the semiderelict central gone bad in the coen brothers’ near-perfect adaptation coast towns of cayucos and cambria. it’s a strange and of cormac Mccarthy’s No Country for Old Men. but alluring mix of prison complexes, wine country, ranches, what many people don’t know is how much of a long and Lost Boys’ beach vibe up there. in other words, it’s shot he was for the part. pretty great. he and his wife, diane lane, are in the proas brolin tells it, the coen brothers were only seeing cess of buying another ranch in the area. he’s a true son people in person to audition for the role, and they had of california. no intention of seeing brolin. besides, he was shooting “i really am,” he says. “and proud of it for, like, the first Planet Terror with robert rodriguez during the audition time. i used to think you have to be from somewhere else, period. but brolin persisted and got rodriguez to shoot but, you know, fuck that. i love california. i just went an audition tape for him on location in Texas. Quentin surfing the other day at Point dume [a semi-private and Tarantino directed it. highly coveted point break] with sean Penn. he lives The rodriquez-Tarantino production got brolin a lastaround that area now.” minute meeting with the coens during a brief stopover in brolin almost bought the house across the street from los angeles. brolin bolted down from Paso robles—a Penn but backed out at the last minute. “i was like, i can’t three-hour drive—on almost no sleep. he bought a cowpay this amount of money,” he explains. “You come from boy hat along the way, stomped it around on the ground a ranch and you’re used to space.” to make it look like he’d worn it before, and nailed the brolin politely asks to smoke before lighting up a audition. kind of. winston and whipping out his iPhone. on the screen is “They said, ‘can you do a Texas accent?’ i said, ‘er…i a test pic for Men In Black 3. thought i was,’” brolin recalls, laughing. “when i left, i “The initial, young Tommy test,” says brolin. “we took it thought, well, that was a really fun experience and i too far, but...,” he laughs, showing an image of what you’d know i’m never going to get this part.” get if Tommy lee Jones and Josh brolin had a baby. since then it’s been gus Van sant (Milk), oliver stone “That was me an hour ago,” brolin says. (W.), woody allen, stone again, and the coens again. he’s just wrapped the coen brothers remake of True “i’m grateful, man,” says brolin. “The other day somebody Grit, which, he says, is both off-kilter and truer to the said something [about a] comeback.” he chuckles at this. source material—a 1968 serial novel by charles Portis that “i was never here. i did what turned out to be a cultish, iconic appeared in The Saturday Evening Post—than the John film [The Goonies], and then i went and did theater that wayne movie. Men in Black 3 is brolin’s next project. nobody cared about. Then i came and got a job once in a so why the departure from the men-on-the-edge real- while. i never had a job where i knew what the next job was ism for which he’s known? “Playing the young Tommy,” going to be. ever. Twenty years… and now i know what he replies. “They came to me with the thing, and i was the next two and half years are going to be like.” like, it’s already been done with Tommy and will, and how does that feel? they’re it. i’m the first guy to go see the movie. They’re “amazing. honestly, amazing,” he says. “i used to be fun. but they went further with it and said, ‘would you embarrassed about saying i’m an actor. it’s lame to be an play Tommy?’ so all of a sudden there was a character actor, a hollywood guy…but i love art. i love writing. i love to play, and i was like, That scares me.” short stories. i love this. You have to do it because you’re but brolin likes being scared. he likes surfing big impassioned about it. i love storytelling, whether it’s guys waves in indonesia, riding his motorcycles on the Pacific sitting around the campfire or whether it’s ethan coen.” coast highway, and he likes doing theater. after shooting Men in Black 3, he’ll return to the stage, Josh brolin in los angeles, July 2010. You Will Meet a where he honed his chops during the long period fol- Tall Dark Stranger is out in september 2010 from sony lowing his initial success in the 1985 cult classic The Pictures classics. Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps is Goonies. brolin is set to star in four one-act plays written out in september 2010 from fox

grooMing ciM MahoneY (The wall grouP) PhoTo assisTanTs frank TerrY, barreTT sweage, Mario sanchez sTYlisT assisTanTs oliVia kozlowski and JacQuelYn Jones digiTal Technician kaT andrews (sMashbox digiTal) Producer kiM Pollock ProducTion assisTanT granT shuMaTe locaTion sMashbox sTudios, los angeles PosTProducTion dTouch

osh brolin is stoked. and for good reason. he finds himself in the rare company of actors who’ve starred in two major movies opening on the same day. “it’s a dream come true,” he says, breaking into that wide, little-bit-country, little-bitrock-and-roll grin of his. “it’s a daniel day-lewis dream come true.” so rare is this feat that one has to dig for precedence back to the days before Mr. day-lewis started over emoting with feet, Mohawks, butcher knives, and bowling balls. all the way to april 11, 1986, in fact, when My Beautiful Laundrette and A Room with a View went theatrical on the same day in the u.s. and england, respectively. for brolin, it’ll be Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps (My Beautiful Money Laundrette, if you will) and You Will Meet a Tall Dark Stranger (or, A Room with a View of Freida Pinto). brolin, though, one-ups day-lewis: both his films are slated to open in the same country (this one) and on the same day. oliver stone directs the former and woody allen the latter. based on the directors, you might guess the films bear little resemblance to each other. stone, a famously swaggering alpha male, likes (liked) to party and make epic films about prison, wars, football, presidents, and wall street. allen, a famously neurotic clarinet player, likes to kvetch and make intimate comedies about the existential angst of chatty new Yorkers and, sometimes, chatty londoners. and though they are worlds apart visually and tonally, the films have their similarities. both deal with the things that cause men to lose their moral bearings, be they money and power or mortality and younger women. in both cases, too, it’s Josh brolin playing the heavy. Wall Street’s bretton James is a hard-charging wall street bull shark and Stranger’s roy is a duplicitous, litworld weasel. These are fallen men, character studies in various manifestations of want and greed. one may be more polite and one may be richer, but they both lust after the same thing: star status in their distinct cosmologies. brolin has nothing but high praise for both directors— allen was “a lot of fun” and stone “one of the most caring directors i ever worked with.” and while neither Wall Street nor Stranger are without their flaws, brolin maintains his canny knack for rendering difficult characters


Josh brolin, 42, wears T-shirT Ralph lauRen


a day on

Wall

Fall’s sharp and powerFul look takes inspiration From the Financial cowboys oF the 1980s


6:23 a.m. up and at ’em this spread, from left: t.r., 45, wears shirt and suspenders BRioni Jacket (on booth) and pants CalVin KlEin CollECTion tie louiS VuiTTon cuff links monTBlanC watch PiagET document case (on booth) Zilli sarah, 20, wears dress hERVE lEgER eric, 19, wears suit CalVin KlEin CollECTion shirt ERmEnEgildo ZEgna tie Polo RalPh lauREn watch monTBlanC aJ, 23, wears suit Tom foRd shirt ERmEnEgildo ZEgna tie dKny

STREET Photography Josh olins Styling Jay massacret

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7:12 a.m. ’copter commute from left: isaac, 18, wears overcoat dRiES Van noTEn suit, tie, Gloves ERmEnEgildo ZEgna shirt BRioni sunGlasses RalPh lauREn PuRPlE laBEl shoes Jil SandER Garrett, 26, wears overcoat guCCi suit and shirt lanVin tie Polo RalPh lauREn sunGlasses Ray-Ban Gloves faÇonnaBlE shoes ChuRCh’S aJ, 23, wears overcoat yVES SainT lauREnT suit lanVin shirt ERmEnEgildo ZEgna tie hERmèS sunGlasses RalPh lauREn PuRPlE laBEl Gloves BRioni shoes gioRgio aRmani eric, 19, wears overcoat dunhill suit Raf SimonS shirt and tie ERmEnEgildo ZEgna sunGlasses Polo RalPh lauREn Gloves BRioni shoes ChuRCh’S


8:13 A.M. ON THE PROWL FROM LEFT: SARAH, 20, WEARS DRESS DOLCE & GABBANA BELT GUILTY BROTHERHOOD EARRINGS KENNETH JAY LANE SHOES WALTER STEIGER FRAGRANCE CAROLINA HERRERA 212 SEXY ERIC, 19, WEARS SUIT Z ZEGNA SHIRT LANVIN TIE BROOKS BROTHERS SHOES BOTTEGA VENETA BRIEFCASE HERMÈS T.R., 45, WEARS OVERCOAT AND GLASSES TOM FORD SUIT AND TIE HERMÈS SHIRT PAUL SMITH TIE BAR MONTBLANC AJ, 23, WEARS SUIT PAUL SMITH SHIRT BRIONI TIE ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SHOES CHURCH’S BRIEFCASE SALVATORE FERRAGAMO


10:02 a.m. trade secrets this spread, from left: t.r., 45, wears suit Raf SimonS shirt ERmEnEgildo ZEgna tie Polo RalPh lauREn Glasses Tom foRd fraGrance CREEd aventus aJ, 23, wears suit dioR hommE shirt BRioni tie dKny on hair, l’oRéal PRofESSionnEl tecni art fixinG spray eric, 19, wears suit dKny shirt ERmEnEgildo ZEgna CouTuRE tie hERmèS watch Tag hEuER



1:17 p.m. out to lunch from left: sarah, 20, wears dress hERVE lEgER earrinGs KEnnETh Jay lanE shoes VERSuS aJ, 23, wears suit Tom foRd socks falKE shoes CESaRE PaCioTTi briefcase (on floor) SalVaToRE fERRagamo eric, 19, wears suit Jil SandER shirt lanVin watch BEll & RoSS socks PunTo shoes SalVaToRE fERRagamo


2:49 P.M. ALL TIED UP FROM LEFT: SARAH, 20, WEARS DRESS BALMAIN SHOES CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ERIC, 19, WEARS SUIT GUCCI SHIRT JIL SANDER PANTS DRIES VAN NOTEN TIE LANVIN CUFF LINKS BROOKS BROTHERS WATCH MONTBLANC SOCKS FALKE SHOES CHURCH’S ON HAIR, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL SUBLIME SHINE BEHIND LEFT ISAAC, 18, WEARS SUIT DOLCE & GABBANA SHIRT SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SHOES CHURCH’S BEHIND RIGHT AJ, 23, WEARS SUIT AND SHIRT BRIONI SHOES CHURCH’S


4:15 p.m. all the news this spread, from left: isaac, 18, wears Jacket and pants louiS VuiTTon shirt yVES SainT lauREnT tie dunhill Glasses moSCoT socks PunTo shoes SalVaToRE fERRagamo eric, 19, wears suit SalVaToRE fERRagamo shirt Jil SandER tie Polo RalPh lauREn tie bar monTBlanC belt hERmèS shoes ChuRCh’S Garrett, 26, wears Jacket maRC JaCoBS shirt Paul SmiTh pants BoTTEga VEnETa tie Tommy hilfigER watch BEll & RoSS socks PunTo shoes RalPh lauREn sarah, 20, wears Jacket and skirt dolCE & gaBBana Glasses moSCoT earrinGs KEnnETh Jay lanE shoes ChRiSTian louBouTin



10:32 p.m. eyes on the priZe from left: aJ, 23, wears Jacket gianfRanCo fERRè shirt SalVaToRE fERRagamo pants BRioni tie BRooKS BRoThERS belt Z ZEgna eric, 19, wears Jacket and pants CalVin KlEin CollECTion shirt ERmEnEgildo ZEgna tie dunhill belt hERmèS watch ChanEl Garrett, 26, wears shirt dRiES Van noTEn pants BRioni belt SalVaToRE fERRagamo tie louiS VuiTTon tie bar BuRBERRy sarah, 20, wears dress hERVE lEgER sunGlasses Tom foRd earrinGs daVid yuRman


1:03 A.M. GETTING WET AT LE BAIN FROM LEFT: ISAAC (IN POOL), 18, WEARS SHIRT BRIONI PANTS Z ZEGNA TIE POLO RALPH LAUREN SUNGLASSES RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL GARRETT, 26, WEARS PANTS AND BELT SALVATORE FERRAGAMO BOXERS CALVIN KLEIN UNDERWEAR WATCH RADO SHOES (IN HAND AND ON FLOOR) CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ERIC, 19, WEARS SHIRT JIL SANDER BOXERS FAÇONNABLE TIE DKNY SOCKS FALKE SARAH, 20, WEARS TOP PROENZA SCHOULER BRIEFS ZIMMERMANN CUFF DAVID YURMAN RING CARLA AMORIM

HAIR SHON (JULIAN WATSON AGENCY) GROOMING STEPHEN DIMMICK USING M.A.C COSMETICS (L’ATELIER NYC) MODELS AJ ABUALRUB, ERIC WATTS, ISAAC WEBER (FORD NY), SARAH DUMONT (MARILYN), GARRETT NEFF, T.R. PESCOD (CLICK) PHOTO ASSISTANTS RORY PAYNE, JASON GEERING, JASON MICKLE, PAVEL WOZNICKI DIGITAL TECHNICIAN TONIA ARAPOVIC STYLIST ASSISTANTS OLIVIA KOZLOWSKI, KATELYN GRAY, MICHAEL SANCHEZ PRODUCTION BRACHFELD NY CASTING ANDREW WEIR (ACW WORLDWIDE) LIGHTING EQUIPMENT DRIVEIN24 RETOUCHING JON HEMPSTEAD LLC LOCATIONS THE STANDARD HOTEL, NEW YORK AND NYSE, USED WITH PERMISSION OF NYSE GROUP INC SPECIAL THANKS SASHA WILSON, RYAN TENNANT, MANUEL ROMERO


Portrait of a PhotograPher A Look At WHAt HAppENS WHEN tHrEE LEgENDS of pHotogrApHy tAkE A turN IN froNt of tHE LENS

richard avedon by arthur rothstein new york, late 1940s The image on the right was taken by Arthur Rothstein on set at an early Richard Avedon shoot. Rothstein gained early notoriety as a documentary photographer for the American Farm Security Administration (FSA); his shots of struggling farmers in the Dust Bowl are immediately recognizable. After the FSA, he went on to be the photo editor of Look magazine, where he nurtured the film career of one of his staff photographers, Stanley Kubrick. Hedi Slimane discovered the photo recently, and it serves as a sort of inspiration for the series of portraits that appear over the following pages. We asked Slimane to tell us why this particular photograph caught his eye. VMAN Where did you come upon this image? HEDI SLIMANE My camera dealer in New York had it sitting in a drawer. It’s a photo that has hardly been seen before. He kindly thought I would be interested to see it. He was right. VMAN What about the photo drew you in? 104

HS I had never seen a picture of Dick so young. Not quite sure how old he is here, but certainly around 18 or 19. His excitement and restlessness, which he kept until the end, are captured beautifully. I kept thinking you could see the generation rupture he would provoke in fashion photography—something like an alternative photographer creating an image of what would now be considered a (beyond) bourgeois dress. There is also something personal here for me. When I created Dior Homme in 2000, I came across a picture of Dick on Avenue Montaigne at his first show assignment. Stuck between Marie-Louise Bousquet and Carmel Snow, he was there attending the birth of the new look. This is why I asked him to take the first photographs of what would be Dior Homme. VMAN What does it feel like for a photographer to end up in the picture? HS I assume it really depends. I can’t stand having my picture taken, but some photographers might like it. Often times, certainly in my case, these are stolen images. Of course with this picture of Richard Avedon, half a century later, it has become a truly moving testimony.


image courtesy the estate of arthur rothstein special thanks grace rothstein and jeff hirsch


“this Photo was taken in my first studio at 303 Park avenue south, in the dressing room. i had just moved in; it was a tiny little Place. christy turlington bought me the mirror as a moving in Present. what i remember most about this Photo is that i was alone in the studio with wally, my jack russell terrier. he was barking at me for attention and Pulling my leg. i remember looking down at him and thinking that i looked like him with his black head and white body.� –steven meisel


steven meisel by steven meisel new york, 1990


a 1969 EsquirE sketch by jean-Paul goude illustrating the Progressive changes his body would go through as he aged


jean-Paul goude by hugo zangl Paris, 2009


After A 10-yeAr hiAtus, iconic ’80s supermodel lynne Koester stArs As A stripper mom in this burlesque tAle with her reAl-life 19-yeAr-old son, model pAolo Anchisi Photography Sebastian Faena Styling Robbie Spencer 110


opposite page: paolo, 19, wears Vest John VaRVatoS shirt tom FoRd pants LanVin tie PoLo RaLPh LauRen Belt FaรงonnabLe this page: paolo wears sweater and shirt PRada tie LanVin lynne, 54, wears Bra damaRiS on eyes, m.a.C CoSmetiCS penultimate eye liner in rapidBlack


Lynne, 54, wears Bra and skirt Dolce & Gabbana roBe What Katie DiD


paolo, 19, wears oVercoat, jacket, shirt dSquaRed pants buRbeRRy PRoRSum Bow tie LoVeLy PLanet on hair, L’oRéaL PaRiS studio line curls ring it up curl refreshing spray yenny, 18, wears dress miu miu


lynne, 54, wears jacket Comme deS GaRรงonS homme PLuS shirt dSquaRed tie tom FoRd corset the bLondS on Brows, m.a.C CoSmetiCS impeccaBle Brow pencil in Black


from left: ryle, 30, wears jacket Comme deS GaRรงonS homme PLuS shirt RaF SimonS tie LanVin paolo, 19, wears sweater maRC JaCobS shirt LouiS Vuitton julie, 37, wears Boots JeRemy SCott underwear aGent PRoVoCateuR


lynne, 54, wears Bra and Briefs atSuKo Kudo gloVes VeLda LaudeR fragrance ViVienne WeStWood Boudoir


paolo, 19, wears jacket and pants RuFSKin shirt tom FoRd lynne, 54, wears top ChaneL gloVes LanVin


from left: julie, 37, wears corset una buRKe Briefs with garters yeS maSteR stockings WoLFoRd paolo, 19, wears Vest RuFSKin shirt GioRGio aRmani tank uniqLo jeans dSquaRed scarf tom FoRd lynne, 54, wears corset the bLondS Bra damaRiS Briefs WundeRVoLL gloVes LanVin


from left: julie, 37, wears Bra atSuKo Kudo Briefs with garters yeS maSteR stockings WoLFoRd shoes PLeaSeR lynne, 54, wears dress GiVenChy by RiCCaRdo tiSCi ryle, 30, wears cardigan y-3 shirt RaF SimonS pants Comme deS GaRçonS homme PLuS tie tommy hiLFiGeR sneakers model’s own paolo, 19, wears sweater y-3 jeans RuFSKin


lynne, 54, wears neckpiece on auRa tout Vu FoR SWaRoVSKi RunWay RoCKS Briefs yeS maSteR


paolo, 19, wears sweater PRada shirt tom FoRd tie tommy hiLFiGeR

hair esther langham (art + commerce) grooming and makeup dotti (streeters) models lynne koester, paolo anchisi, yenny garcia, ryle irish (ford ny), julie atlas muz (performer, the Box) lighting technician daVid diesing photo assistant auBrey mayer stylist assistants jessica BoBince and elizaBeth fraser-Bell hair assistants schlomi mor and adam markarian manicure myrdith leon-m c cormack (ford artists–nyc) digital technician scott lyles production toBy Bannister production assistants alexandra kuhn, daniel tepper, jared aBramson equipment rental nucleus pro retouching View digital casting andrew weir (acw worldwide) special thanks denise hewett (the Box), marques nolan, manuel romero


RaineR, 47, weaRs Coat Ralph lauRen black label Denim jaCket acne

Men In The


Paul (in front), 39, wears sweatshirt Shipley & halmoS white t-shirt (worn unDerneath) GueSS Jeans levi’S seiJo (behinD), 32, wears sweater prada long-sleeve t-shirt (worn unDerneath) BurBerry prorSum Jeans GueSS boots from What GoeS around ComeS around

hood

because tough-guy fashion is the must-have faLL Look when the streets turn rough

photography Cedric Buchet Styling Clare richardson 123


RaineR, 47, weaRs sweateR boSS oRanGe t-shiRt polo Ralph lauRen Pants pRada neCklaCe fRom WhaT GoeS aRound coMeS aRound Ring moDel’s own


JOEL (IN FRONT), 35, WEARS STRIPED SHIRT Y-3 WHITE T-SHIRT (WORN UNDERNEATH) FROM WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND PANTS DOLCE & GABBANA CAP DUNHILL SEIJO (BEHIND), 32, WEARS SWEATER DUNHILL PANTS DRIES VAN NOTEN RING DAVID YURMAN


joel, 35, weaRs sweateR z zeGna stRiPeD sweateR boSS oRanGe hat anD neCklaCe fRom WhaT GoeS aRound coMeS aRound


Larry, 44, wears Coat BurBerry Prorsum tank Acne Pants comme des GArรงons Homme Plus BeLt from WHAt Goes Around comes Around shoes BurBerry


laRRy, 44, weaRs sweateR paul SMITh sweateR (woRn unDeRneath) jaMeS lonG Denim jaCket (unDeR heaD) calvIn kleIn jeanS


Paul, 39, wears Coat BurBerry Prorsum sweater James Long Pants DoLce & gaBBana Boots and neCklaCe from What goes arounD comes arounD Hair seiji (tHe wall GrouP) models Paul sCulfor (next), seijo imazaki (major), rainer andreesen (next), larry sCott (wilHelmina), joel west (ford ny) PHoto assistants riCHard rose, sterlinG taylor, maxwell mason stylist assistant anGelo desanto diGital teCHniCian Gokay sarioz ProduCtion tina PresCHitz (nex9) ProduCtion assistant zein zuBi CastinG andrew weir (aCw worldwide) loCation root studios, ny equiPment rental treC retouCHinG Gloss CaterinG riCe sPeCial tHanks sasHa wilson, manuel romero, ryan tenant, marques nolan


Kelly, 34, wears sweater and pants Dolce & Gabbana Bracelet Mokuba Paris

boys to Men

ClassiC blaCk makes a statement at any age Photography Willy Vanderperre styling olivier rizzo

130


Kelly, 34, wears coat Marc Jacobs pants Dolce & Gabbana Bracelet Mokuba Paris necKlace model’s own


roch, 29, wears JacKet Dior HoMMe on sKin, bobbi broWn hydrating eye cream Fragrance cHristian Dior eau noire


roch, 29, wears sweater and shoes PraDa pants Gucci watch JaeGer-lecoultre silver Bracelet Maison Martin MarGiela cord Bracelet Mokuba Paris


clement, 21, wears coat and JacKet Jil sanDer pants PraDa Fragrance Jill sanDer sander For men


clement, 21, wears sweater and pants PraDa Bracelets Mokuba Paris on sKin, bobbi broWn hydrating Face cream


photo assistants antoine Breant and romain duBus stylist assistants donatella musco and eleonora panZetta production aurelie mangiaracina location studio daylight, paris special thanKs christian horvath (dtouch)

Ben, 36, wears sweater, pants, shoes raF siMons watch HerMĂˆs Bracelets Mokuba Paris


hair yannicK d’is (management+artists) grooming lucia pica using BoBBi Brown (management+artists) models Ben JacKson (select), roch BarBot (Bananas), clement chaBernaud (success models), Kelly rippy (wilhelmina)

Ben, 36, wears JacKet and sweater PraDa pants Versace


double TAKe The mosT famous faces in men’s fashion Try on fall’s head-To-Toe denim looks Photographer Karl lagerfeld Styling Clare Richardson


DaviD, 30, wears shirt, tank, jeans dolCe & GAbbAnA watch TAG HeueR ring moDel’s own on skin, lAnCôme men hyDrix micro-nutrient moisturizing Balm

139


enrique, 35, wears coat leS HommeS Denim jacket dioR Homme tank CAlvin Klein undeRweAR jeans Tom FoRd necklace SHAun leAne watch Rolex


anDres, 32, wears jeans 7 FoR All mAnKind necklace styist’s own Fragrance CHAnel allure homme sport


“wHAT’S FAmouS And HAS no AGe? ...denim!” –KARl lAGeRFeld alex, 37, wears shirt anD jeans dSquARed Belt vintage watch louiS vuiTTon


scott, 32, wears jacket mARC JACobS Denim shirt H&m tank AmeRiCAn APPARel jeans dioR Homme necklace SHAun leAne chains (at waist) stylist’s own watch CHAnel on hair, bumble And bumble straight

grooming (For DaviD anD alex) aaron De mey For lancÔme (total management) grooming (For scott, anDres, anD enrique) mickael noiselet (calliste paris) hair laurent philippon For BumBle anD BumBle (tim howarD management) moDels DaviD ganDy (Dna), alex lunDqvist, enrique palacios (wilhelmina), anDres velencoso segura (mgm paris), scott Barnhill (major) manicure (For DaviD ganDy anD alex lunDqvist) typhaine kersual (jeD root) photo assistants olivier saillant, FreDeric DaviD, BernwarD sollich, xavier arias stylist assistant reBecca connolly hair assistant anthony Deliperi


THe world’s firsT male supermodel Before Marcus, Tyson, GaBrIeL, anD aLex, There was Jeff aquILon. ThIrTy years LaTer, he can sTILL sTrIke a pose photography Hedi slimane styling Jay massacret

Jeff Aquilon, considered by many to be the first male supermodel, appeared in hundreds of iconic photographs in the ’70s and ’80s—holding handstands, posing against boulders, lifting himself out of swimming pools, and once coupling with Paulina Porizkova to illustrate a GQ essay titled “The Semiotics of a Topless Beach.” The California native was discovered by Bruce Weber during a 1978 casting at Pepperdine University, where Aquilon was captain of the water polo team. Now 52, the occasional model is married with four children and living in Santa Barbara, working as the director of academic and institutional technology at Westmont, a small Christian liberal arts college. We recently chatted with Aquilon about his life and times. mark Jacobs Mark JacoBs were you surprised to be chosen for that first Bruce weber shoot? Jeff aquILon Very surprised. I thought that they were all crazy. I had been in a water polo game that day and 144

had gotten punched or elbowed and had a black eye

and stitches, so I thought it was pretty crazy to even go. And my car wasn’t working too well that day so I had

to rotate the distributor cap to get to the appointment. But I got there and they liked what they saw and one thing led to another. MJ when people write about you they can get cerebral about your impact on definitions of masculinity and how men perceive themselves. Ja I took it as a business. People were laying a lot of money on the line so I wanted to be in shape and on time. Those were the things that I could consciously contribute short of just being in front of the camera and trying to accomplish what they were trying to do. MJ what do you see when you look at yourself today? Ja Well, I’m still in pretty good shape. I surf and ride bikes a little bit. I play racquetball a lot during the week. MJ Do the students and faculty at westmont know

about your modeling career? Ja I did a Brooks Brothers shoot a while ago and somebody in the admissions office found it. So then I go up to do some work in the office and I see somebody taping it on the wall. So people do know about it but it’s not something I talk about there. MJ how would you describe the way Bruce weber perceived you? Ja There was just some kind of connection. I don’t know…he understands me or I understand him…I just know that when I’m going to work with Bruce it’s going to be an amazing thing. It’s neat to me to still be working with him after thirty-some years. In our last shoot, I got to take one of my sons, Oliver, who’s 19 years old and a real neat painter. Every time, it’s like going back to the first day. JEff AqUIlON, 52, IN lOS ANgElES, JUly 2010 JEANS converse by JoHn varvaTos rINg hIS OWN



Jeff, 52, wears T-shirT Prada Jeans Converse by John varvatos


Jeff, 52, wears JackeT GivenChy by riCCardo tisCi T-shirT James Perse fragrance GivenChy genTleman


Jeff, 52, wears Jeans j brand necklace david Yurman

GroominG cim mahoney (The wall Group) phoTo assisTanTs frank Terry, BarreTT sweaGe, mario sanchez sTylisT assisTanT olivia kozlowski and Jacquelyn Jones diGiTal Technician kaT andrews (smashBox diGiTal) producer kim pollock producTion assisTanT GranT shumaTe locaTion smashBox sTudios, los anGeles posTproducTion dTouch



The winTer oF our lives When the Wind bloWs and the snoW falls, these incredible coats Will keep you Warm Without sacrificing your cool Photography Ben Toms styling robbie spencer

Petey, 21, wears COat aND shirt BurBerrY ProrsuM sweater D&G PaNts GuCCi tie styList’s OwN

Petey, 21, wears JaCKet aND PaNts BurBerrY ProrsuM sweater viCTorinoX GLOVes eMPorio ArMAni

150


Petey, 21, wears COat aND BaG GuCCi sweater viCTorinoX PaNts BurBerrY ProrsuM hat aND GLOVes D&G


Petey, 21, wears COat LANVIN JaCKet (wOrN UNDerNeatH) PAUL SMITH HOODIe CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION PaNts EMPORIO ARMANI Hat Y-3 BaG GUCCI


GrOOmiNG NaOKi KOmiya (JULiaN watsON aGeNCy) mODeL Petey wriGht (FOrD Ny) PrODUCtiON heLeNa BeNJaFieLD (iNtrePiD) retOUChiNG matthew aDams

Petey, 21, wears COat G-sTAr PaNts eMPorio ArMAni sCarF John vArvATos

Petey, 21, wears PUFFer Vest aND CheCK shirt John vArvATos JaCKet viCTorinoX tUrtLeNeCK GuCCi PaNts PAul sMiTh hat rAF siMons For FreD PerrY GLOVes eMPorio ArMAni BaG lAnvin

Petey, 21, wears COat aND CarDiGaN PrADA shirt John vArvATos hat Y-3 BaG BurBerrY ProrsuM tO see mOre FrOm this shOOt Visit VmaN.COm


heartbreakers Some like older women, others like younger. The trick is to follow your heart_ and try not to get burned photography richard burbridge styling robbie spencer

ABOVE Š EstAtE Of ROy LichtEnstEin


They say you’re only as old as the woman you feel...

PAULinE, 19, WEARs DREss CACHAREL scARf (On hEAD) HERMÈS nEcKLAcE DAVID YURMAN fRAGRAncE CREED ViRGin isLAnD WAtER MAtt, 54, WEARs OVERcOAt TRUSSARDI 1911 JAcKEt HICKEY FREEMAN shiRt DUNHILL tiE JIL SANDER POcKEt sQUARE RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LAbEL fRAGRAncE CHANEL POUR MOnsiEUR

155


BERthiL, 37, WEARs JAcKEt GUCCI shiRt JOHN VARVATOS scARf HICKEY FREEMAN fRAGRAncE GUCCI POUR hOMME ii GWEn, 17, WEARs tOP OSKLEN GLOVEs LACOSTE sUnGLAssEs HOUSE OF HOLLAND bY LINDA FARROW PROJECTS RinG DIOR FINE JEWELRY

FORGET IT! FORGET ME! YOU’RE WAY TOO YOUNG FOR THIS TO WORK!


IT’S AN ETERNAL TRUTH THAT LOVE KNOWS NO AGE...

KIM, 37, WEARS DRESS LOUIS VUITTON ON LIPS, CHANEL ROUGE DOUBLE INTENSITÉ IN RUBY LITE WES, 21, WEARS POLO Raf SImONS fOR fRed peRRy JACKET STYLIST’S OWN FRAGRANCE CHANEL ALLURE hOMME SPORT

hAIR TOMO JIDAI USING ShU UEMURA ART OF hAIR (STREETERS) MAKEUP AND GROOMING PETER PhILIPS FOR ChANEL (ART + COMMERCE) MODELS KIM IGLINSKY (ONE MANAGEMENT), WES PhILLIPS (DNA), BERThIL ESPEGREN (FORD NY), PAULINE vAN DER CRUYSSE, GWEN LOOS (MARILYN), MATT NORKLUM (NExT) MANICURE RICA ROMAIN USING ChANEL (SEE MANAGEMENT) PhOTO ASSISTANTS MIChAEL hAUPTMAN, JEFF hENRIKSON, GREG BYERS STYLIST ASSISTANTS JESSICA BOBINCE AND JONAThAN hAMILT MAKEUP AND GROOMING ASSISTANTS EMIKO AYABE AND QUINN MURPhY MANICURE ASSISTANT CREShA WhITLOCK PRODUCTION ETTA MEYER RETOUChING STELLA DIGITAL LOCATION MILK STUDIOS, NEW YORK CATERING RICE NY


From leFt: Sjöö SandStröm UtC extreme BlaCk Gold $8,655 Cartier Cartier roadster s watCh in steel and rUBBer $4,200 jaeger-leCoultre memovox international in steel $11,350

WreStle againSt 158


GROOMinG RaLph siciLianO FOR M.a.c cOsMETics (KaTE RYan inc.) MOdELs JacK hanRahan, JusTin hiLEMan, dan ROhanna, daniEL nunEz (wiLhELMina), QuEnTin hERnandEz, aLan Fanucchi phOTO assisTanTs shOhEi shOJi, QuanG TRinh, KEnichi MizOGuchi pROducER aLan wOO RETOuchinG TOMOKO shiMOzaKi

FROM LEFT: Bell & Ross BR01-92 YELLOw wiTh RuBBER sTRap $4,500 GeoRG Jensen GEORG JEnsEn KOppEL whiTE auTOMaTic chROnOGRaph $4,850 Rolex OYsTER pERpETuaL MiLGauss $6,575

time

No matter where you’re headed oN the jourNey of life, these esseNtial fall watches will get you there oN time Photography shu Akashi Fashion editor Yuki James


how old are you?

stockists

Age is nothin’ But A numBer. BeloW is An index oF the models And celeBrities Who mAke uP this issue. see hoW you stAck uP

harrison gilbertson jordan coulter gwen loos brian blank yenny garcia isaac weber paolo anchisi mikhael ayoub genaro perez pauline van der cruysse eric watts sarah dumont aaron johnson christopher wetmore clement chabernaud wes phillips petey wright nathaniel brown tommy herd ilan leas aj abualrub andre condit garrett neff daniel di tomasso juan heredia kele okereke rj rogenski roch barbot romain gavras david gandy

16

philip huang

30

160

17 17 18 18 18 19 19 19 19 19 20 20 21 21 21 21 22 22 22 23 23 26 27 28 28 28 29 29 30

ryle irish paul-anthony nicastro brad kroenig scott barnhill seijo imazaki andres velencoso segura angelo sorrenti kelly rippy robert konjic enrique palacios joel west ben jackson berthil espegren kim iglinsky alex lundqvist julie atlas muz paul sculfor damon tolstoy josh brolin larry scott karim bouabdelli t.r. pescod john rawlinson rainer andreeson john slattery mike dale jeff aquilon lynne koester matt norklum edward putnowicz hugh hefner

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