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SPRING/SUMMER 2018
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF
TIMOTHÉE CHALAMET
The breakout star of Call Me By Your Name is the picture of a modern leading man
INTERVIEWS BY FRANK OCEAN AND XAVIER DOLAN PHOTOGRAPHED BY COLLIER SCHORR STYLED BY ROBBIE SPENCER TIMOTHÉE WEARS CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC
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VI SI VITSIOT UORU R N YC N YC MEME N’ SN’STO S STO R ER E O POPENI ENI NGNG T HTI S H IASPRI A PRI L AT L AT 235 235 WEWE ST ST 57 TH 57 TH STR STR E EET E T
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SHO P AND G ET MORE I NF O AT NORDSTROM .C O M/MEN
SPRING 2018
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF / CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Stephen Gan MANAGING EDITOR
Nancy Gillen SENIOR EDITOR
ART DIRECTOR
BUSINESS MANAGER
CONTRIBUTORS
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SENIOR DESIGNER
DIRECTOR OF SALES AND STRATEGY
Frank Ocean Xavier Dolan Collier Schorr Robbie Spencer Nathaniel Goldberg David Bradshaw Thomas Lohr Boo George Deb Watson Mitchell Belk Arno Frugier Nicholas Alan Cope Karla Welch Luke Gilford Hugh Lippe Sean Knight CYCY Sanders Britt Berger Priya Rao Cameron McNee Christian Stroble Alex Trochut Clement Pascal Marcus Allen Mat+Kat Cece Liu Scandebergs Warren Leech Giacomo Cabrini Luca Smorgon Ian Morrison Anda & Masha Thomas Legrand Andreas Johansson Jason Pietra Oscar Lange Alexandra Pechman Matthew Donaldson Aurelia Donaldson Christine Hahn Paul Frederick Karl Hab Stéphane Gaboué Paul Schrodt Ilana Kaplan Max Bell Bekka Palmer Brandon Bowen No. 223 Schohaja Staffler
Jonathan Conrad FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR
Alexandra Ilyashov
Mia Solkin
ASSOCIATE EDITOR
CONTRIBUTING FASHION DIRECTOR
Devin Barrett CONTRIBUTING FEATURES EDITOR
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Lisa Mischianti
Jay Massacret
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Nic k Jon a s New York , N Y 2018
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
A well-crafted lifestyle is the ultimate aspirational goal. Today’s modern man curates every element of his day with equal care, from the toothbrush he picks up in the morning to the sheets he tucks into at night, each detail imbued with the same smart panache. In the spring/ summer issue, we embark upon a day in the life of the quintessential VMAN from start to finish, complete with all the essential products, garments, gadgets, entertainment, eats, exercise, and more that occupy his time. At the center of this narrative is rising actor Timothée Chalamet, who serves as a prime example of what it means to be a VMAN now. After delivering groundbreaking performances in two of the most acclaimed films of the past year—Greta Gerwig’s Ladybird and Luca Guadagnino’s Call Me By Your Name, the latter of which has garnered him an Oscar nomination—Chalamet has secured his place as a leading man of the future. Thoughtful and overwhelmingly talented, with an impeccable eye for style, Chalamet opens up in exclusive interviews with musician Frank Ocean and filmmaker Xavier Dolan. He is photographed by Collier Schorr, and wears spring fashions styled by Robbie Spencer in a cozy bedroom. When it’s time to rise and shine, the VMAN’s morning ritual begins, featuring the finest in everything from facial products to designer coffee mugs. Jules Horn shows
how to get the blood pumping with a beach run in the finest athleticwear, captured by Nathaniel Goldberg and styled by David Bradshaw. The right way to get dressed for the day is demonstrated by Presley Gerber, in looks deconstructed by Tom Van Dorpe and photographed by Thomas Lohr. A dapper commute is made possible by must-have trends, including the coolest bikes, sneakers, and handsfree waist bags, and on the journey, it’s essential to plug in some quality headphones and get acquainted with the artists shaping the soundtrack of now, from DJs like Zedd, The Martinez Brothers, and Martin Garrix to singersongwriters like Moses, Eden, and Porches. The afternoon offers time on the town in the best looks of the season, followed by sports practice. Evening brings sunset screenings with all of the talent lighting up TV and film, including Charlie Plummer, Ross Lynch, Miles Heizer, and Kelvin Harrison Jr. After dinner at L.A.’s buzziest high-concept restaurant, Vespertine, Lucky Blue Smith shows that the best way to end the day is to wear sunglasses after dark, in a shoot shot by Hugh Lippe and styled by Karla Welch. Then, it’s time to let loose with a cocktail and a spin on the dance floor before calling it a night. Join us as we explore what it truly means for the VMAN to stylishly seize the day. MR. V
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SLICK KICKS This season’s reprisal of Lanvin’s Diving sneakers brings fresh colors and fabrics to this supple, rubber-soled shoe perfectly suited for summer. Hues range from sunny yellow to powdery blue to a shock of magenta. The sneakers are rendered in calfskin, often with technical inlays. They range from plain to printed, and are available with or without contrasting laces. The space where sport tech meets high-end style is a particularly sweet spot for footwear, something Lanvin’s menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver clearly knows well. LISA MISCHIANTI LANVIN DIVING SNEAKERS ($675, AVAILABLE AT LANVIN’S MADISON AVENUE BOUTIQUE)
VMAN NEWS Your update on everything from the season’s freshest fashion buzz to the tastemakers to watch in the worlds of art, interior design, and luxury automotives.
Great menswear options in midtown Manhattan are about to grow handsomely. This April marks the opening of the Nordstrom NYC Men’s Store, the company’s first stand-alone men’s shop (and first full-line store in Manhattan). The retail spot will be a true one-stop shop for the modern man, offering any and all merchandise categories, from sportswear, denim, suits, jackets, and trousers, to dress shirts, neckwear, made-to-measure, and active wear. Also available: furnishings and accessories, tech, shoes, and grooming. Expect to find Nordstrom’s signature range of popular, luxury and designer brand names, including exclusive and limited-distribution brands, as well as many services that bridge the convenience of online shopping with the instore experience. A three-story building with an all-glass facade situated squarely on West 57th and Broadway near Central Park, it has all the makings of a new NYC landmark. LM MYKITA SUNGLASSES ($519, AVAILABLE AT NORDSTROM 235 WEST 57TH STREET, NYC AND SHOP.NORDSTROM.COM)
BRIT APPEAL Best known for its storied shirts, this season Ben Sherman is branching out with a new jewelry range. Offerings include a strong selection of wristwear, from wraparound bracelets in cord and leather with stainless steel accents, to a braided leather bracelet with an enamel-embellished ID plate, to easy-going beaded pieces. Two 26-inch pendant necklaces and a geometric-patterned ring round out the selection. The collection is a classic, masculine nod to Ben Sherman’s heritage, and the add-ons spring calls for. LM BEN SHERMAN JEWELRY ($30-$50, AVAILABLE AT NORDSTROM)
THIS PAGE TOP AND BOTTOM: PHOTOGRAPHY JASON PIETRA; MIDDLE: COURTESY KCD; OPPOSITE PAGE: PHOTOGRAPHY JASON PIETRA
DAPPER NEW DESTINATION
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For the season ahead, channel Alessandro Michele’s eclectic more-is-more approach. The Gucci designer has offered an exotic spin on an American classic—the bomber jacket. A perfect pairing with spring’s streamlined silhouettes, this luxurious topper boasts a chain of glimmering rhinestones (160, to be exact) bordering the jacket’s ornate python skin. Hand-sewn embroidery, consisting of 1,450 additional rhinestones in a variety of sizes, further embellishes the delicate scales. On the back, suede, nappa, and velvet hand-stitched letters spell out “spiritismo.” Stones and beads punctuate the intricate detailing. Black sumptuous leather and graphic varsity stripes anchor this rock-inflected piece. DEVIN BARRETT GUCCI JACKET ($13,000, AVAILABLE AT GUCCI NEW YORK FIFTH AVENUE AND GUCCI BEVERLY HILLS)
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KEEPING UP WITH THE JONAS Music industry credibility is the calling card of menswear label John Varvatos, with a pantheon of iconic artists— from Alice Cooper and Kiss to Willie Nelson and Ringo Starr—appearing in its buzzy campaigns. This spring, the brand takes that legacy to the next level: singersongwriter Nick Jonas is not only the face of the season, but has collaborated with the designer on a seven-piece collection, the first time Varvatos has ever put another person’s name on the label. It’s a momentous occasion, brought on by serendipity. “We met at a dinner and connected immediately—started talking about life and music and fashion,” recalls Jonas. “I saw quickly that John, like me, sees beyond the thing he’s known for. I’m thrilled that we’re in the same place, where we can have a glass of tequila and talk about our dreams.” Indeed, Jonas—a former VMAN cover star himself—is a true polymath with his hands in a lot of different projects. Since the release of his 2016 solo album, Last Year Was Complicated, and two fresh singles in 2017, he’s been dabbling in film, most recently the remake of Jumanji and the forthcoming science fiction flick Chaos Walking. And with his style clout ever-rising, a fashion project of this magnitude was a natural next step. “I’m really inspired by what Nick does, the way he thinks and how he lives his life,” says Varvatos. Their friendship organically led to a creative union— one for which Jonas, a loyalist of Varvatos’s label, was particularly suited. “This brand has been a part of my life for a long time,” explains Jonas, who mined his personal history with the line for design inspiration. “I looked back and said, OK, I wore this [Varvatos] jacket during this performance at Madison Square Garden and it was really special for me. If we built something that made the men who are going to wear these clothes feel the way I felt on that stage, we’ve accomplished our goal.” The resulting range comprises Jonas’s take on quality essentials, from T-shirts, to a graphic hoodie, to a leather jacket. “When you write an album, you want songs that someone will come back to again and again. And that’s what Nick was saying about the clothes,” adds Varvatos. “He was really zeroing in on those key pieces that three years from now you pull out of your closet and love even more than when you first got them.” Jonas already has reason to believe the collection, which releases on a rolling basis, will resonate: “It feels really sexy and cool and just like a thing that my friends are gonna be hitting me up to get. Joe already saw it and was begging for it. He’s gonna have to wait!” LM JV X NJ COLLECTION ($98-$1,698, JOHNVARVATOS.COM)
VMAN17 PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: PHOTOGRAPHY DANNY CLINCH, COURTESY JOHN VARVATOS; VMAN17 PHOTOGRAPHY MARIO TESTINO, STYLING CLARE RICHARDSON
NEWS
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NEWS
HIGH-TECH TROUSERS A clean, sophisticated look and balmy temperatures can be tough to reconcile. Theory’s solution is a springtime update on its classic, versatile Zaine pant. This season, the best-selling trouser comes in Ice Cotton Twill: a comfortable stretch cotton that regulates moisture and stays cool. This effect is achieved naturally during the spinning process, without synthetics or other technology. It is, as the brand has dubbed it, a true wardrobe workhorse. LM THEORY ZAINE PANT IN ICE COTTON TWILL ($225, THEORY.COM)
KICK-ASS CASHMERE Celebrated for its seamless union of Swedish sartorial sensibility and French aesthetics, Ron Dorff is a favorite destination for smart, modern, sophisticated sportswear. Driven by the motto “Discipline is not a dirty word,” the label is centered on “beyond-basics” that favor simplicity, function, impeccable fit, and high-end fabrication, eschewing overt branding and changing trends. This season, that mission manifests itself in the new Summer Cashmere collection, a range of ultra-soft, breathable pieces in a light cotton-cashmere mix, each adorned with two signature black-laquered Ron Dorff eyelets (the only branding in sight). Offerings include classic joggers, a pullover hoodie with a front pocket, and a sweatshirt reading “Kick Ass”—a fitting piece for winning big at the gym and beyond. LM
WALK THIS WAY Some critics call André Walker’s intimate Spring 2018 show a comeback for the veteran designer—he’s 35 years into a career that includes his own eponymous label as well as consulting for Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton and Kim Jones—but the creative himself emphasizes it is certainly not. “To me, it’s not a comeback,” he says. Rather, Walker explains it was a necessary epiphany: “I wanted to have a job basically, something that could really sustain my life and my creativity in a sense.” But for the 52-year-old to move forward, he had to look back, specifically to designs from the first wave of his career: 1982–1986. After revisiting the clothes in 2011, thanks to the meticulous storage of his dear friend Patricia Field, Walker eventually turned to the project in a more sustained sense to divert attention from his father’s passing in August 2016. “I think it came from God and my dad, my dad’s spirit,” he says. “I was also doing watercolor for at least two months after he died because my dad was always like, You should paint or you should make clothes exactly the way you started making clothes, by yourself. And I think he was right.” The result was his spring collection, an avant-garde unisex offering of wrap jackets with billowy sleeves and flared trousers cut from Pendleton fabrics. That Walker concocted, cut, and sewed his clothes directly from flat-cut lengths of materials underscored its arty appeal—not to mention the fact that most millennials had never even heard of him. Of his most recent work, he says, “I feel more comfortable about buying into something that has to do with quality and less to do with the zeitgeist. I’m much more interested in some form of foundational truth.” Walker hopes to relay that idea and then some with his upcoming collaboration with Virgil Abloh’s Off-White (which he is tight-lipped about) and perhaps, one day with Ralph Lauren. “I personally have a dream of designing Ralph Lauren,” he admits. “I would like to develop something incredible for that company. I have clothes that I wear over and over again. This is an undeniable part of my lifestyle; Ralph Lauren is this embodiment of that kind of approach.” Until then, Walker plans on designing, consulting, collaborating, and most importantly, making his intentions known out loud—something he didn’t always do. “I would like to see what I could do,” he says. “I figure I have to really be brave and bold and just ask for the things that I see in my mind and my imagination.” PRIYA RAO
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: PHOTOGRAPHY LUC BRAQUET, COURTESY RON DORFF; PHOTOGRAPHY JASON PIETRA; COURTESY LUCIEN PAGÈS COMMUNICATION
RON DORFF SUMMER CASHMERE COLLECTION ($210-$270, RONDORFF.COM)
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NEW ORDER
PHOTOGRAPHY SCHOHAJA STAFFLER
GMBH FALL/WINTER 2018 “MY BEAUTY OFFENDS YOU” COLLECTION
Though the name of fashion label GmbH is ostensibly a plain one—an acronym for a German legal phrase that literally means “a company with limited liability”—it has proven the necessary blank canvas for creatives Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik to conjure their democratic and global vision. Their brand’s inclusivity has certainly struck a chord: since showing a humble presentation last June in Paris, the Berlin-based collective that the duo formed has been nominated for the LVMH prize and been carried by notable retailers like Opening Ceremony and Dover Street Market. In January, it was officially added to the Paris Men’s Fashion Week schedule. “We push diversity as hard as we can. That’s something we felt like has been missing in fashion,” says Huseby, who is of Norwegian-Pakistani descent, while Isik is TurkishGerman. “It’s increasing, but there’s a lot of tokenism and sometimes it doesn’t necessarily seem true. I really thought it was important to do something that represents our background—brown working-class kids and immigrants.” That idea manifests itself not only in the clothes—think colorblocked outerwear washed in minimalist tones and tailored trousers with cargo pockets inspired by their fathers—but through their storytelling and show casting, points Huseby is particularly proud of. “We just saw that our campaign was featured in a Danish newspaper because we were talking about diversity, and I think that’s amazing,” he says. “When a young fashion label like us that has only been around for a year can reach out to non-fashion media it shows that you actually could affect things beyond just fashion.” This narrative also carries through to their first official show for Fall 2018 called “My Beauty Offends You.” Inspired by a BBC article about an all-Viking burial ground with the word “Allah” written in it, Huesby emphasizes these conversations about culture have been around for centuries. “It was so beautiful to find this article about Nordic Viking exchanges with the Middle East,” he says. “The show is a very bold statement for us. It’s about asking the question, Why should the way that we look offend anyone?” And to him, it shows promise for the future: “I think, by this historical context, we try to sort out some of our current issues.” PR
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NEWS AUTO
LUXURY OVERDRIVE PHOTOGRAPHY KARL HAB
When Arthur Kar was a child in his native Lebanon, there was one word that, to him, was synonymous with cars: Golf. His mechanic father drove a Volkswagen Golf GTI, and that legendary vehicle would sow the seeds of a fiery passion for automobiles that has grown exponentially, to the point that he is now arguably the world’s coolest car dealer. Not only does he sell an eclectic array of stylish vintage rides (from—of course—Golf GTIs to gleaming Porsche 911s to hefty off-road Mercedeses), he also enjoys cachet thanks to an entourage that includes the likes of Kanye West (a friend, not a client, Kar says). Named L’art de l’Automobile, his company has now expanded to include a range of in-demand attire referencing automotive culture. All of these endeavors are headquartered on the 11th floor of a car park on Paris’s left bank. Kar, 35, owes his automobile expertise to a long career begun as a mechanic at age 14, at a Porsche garage in suburban Paris, where he would do everything from washing to repairing. He eventually realized that if he “wanted to have beautiful cars,” he “would have to look like [his] clients, and not like a mechanic.” So, he branched into car sales, first with a partner during the aughts, then solo beginning in 2012. A fashion and art buff since childhood, he designs every single T-shirt with his team, many of them sporting humorous prints with cautionary tale undertones (for example, a car stuck in concrete representing stolen wheels). Interestingly, he’s never designed a car, although he would find the prospect of a collaboration with Pininfarina, the legendary Italian car design firm, tempting. “I’m a cultural designer, not a fashion designer,” says Kar. And yet, his clothing, available at stores like Paris’s The Broken Arm, seems to be getting as much attention as his va-va-voom cars. Indeed, he’s had people ask, “Do I need to buy a car to get a T-shirt?” STÉPHANE GABOUÉ 40 VMAN.COM
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NEWS DESIGN
SPACE ODYSSEY PHOTOGRAPHY BEKKA PALMER
Bored with pure functionality, Kristen Wentrcek and Andrew Zebulon aim to alter viewers’ perceptions via inventive furniture and installations. Formerly known as Wintercheck Factory, the duo works out of two stories in an impressive warehouse-like space in BedStuy, Brooklyn. They met while designing packaging for a Japanese distributor, and shared an affinity for material and craft. Now, their projects focus on experimentation and the integrity of materials. The context of mundane fabrications is shifted—think industrial rubber fused with Corian to make a serene chaise lounge. Familiar materials are used in unexpected ways, “taking the essence of a certain material’s textures, feelings, smells, connections. You sort of let the materials be themselves,” says Zebulon. Their work muses on the idea of pausing. While hosting openings in their studio space, they noticed that viewers’ attentions were on libations and conversation instead of the work. Their latest installation, Intermediate States, is an immersive combination of light, sound, and taste in a fiberglass labyrinth. Organized in intimate, eight-person seated sessions, viewers enter a long, narrow, otherworldly hallway with instructions to pick up a glass and take a seat in the next room. Once an amber light turns on, a cocktail is ready at the faucet. The experience is meant to entertain as well as contain. “All of the space’s surfaces are really similar,” Wentrcek says. “The light helps blend them together, and we isolated a glowing aspect of the room. As humans, light makes you feel different.” Seamless surfaces blend together, while stools made of orthopedic cast material anchor the stable-like surroundings. There’s an element of camaraderie among attendees. “Every group is different, but every group reacts to each other the same way. It’s a group mentality,” says Wentrcek. “If people are being wild, everyone’s a bit wild. If people are reserved, the whole room is reserved.” While Wentrcek and Zebulon’s output may seem conceptual, it’s done for pure enjoyment and the love of a challenge. “All of the materials are pretty horrible. I think we pick stuff that’s difficult. It’s hard to create the pride factor with anything that’s that readily available,” Wentrcek jokes. Adds Zebulon, “I think this goes back to getting people’s brains to light up.” DEVIN BARRETT 42 VMAN.COM
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F U T U R E
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NEWS ART
FROM LEFT: WORKS BY TRULEE HALL, SARAH WILSON, AND LAZAROS, FROM THE EXHIBIT SON OF MR. GREEN GENES AT BBQLA, 2017
BBQLA
PORTRAIT BY BRANDON BOWEN
FROM LEFT: TIMO FAHLER, ADAM BERIS, PATRICK KELLYCOOPER, THOMAS LINDER
TOP: PHOTOGRAPHY LAZAROS, COURTESY BBQLA
In an industrial district of downtown Los Angeles, the aptly named BBQLA lures crowds to regular art shows with Midwesternstyle barbeque. The artist-run platform—an alternative gallery that also functions as a roving installation—unites contemporary art with homestyle cooking. The goal of the seemingly strange pairing, per its directors, is to foster a non-intimidating art-going atmosphere through literally breaking bread. One sunny L.A. morning, the four codirectors—Timo Fahler, Adam Beris, Thomas Linder, and Patrick Kellycooper—are wearing a mix of shorts, paint-splattered pants, and Crocs at their semi-official location, Linder’s studio. All four have jobs while also working as artists and running the space on a volunteer basis. A tiny mutt named Doobie serves as their unofficial mascot. The overall concept began with backyard barbeques at an apartment in Silver Lake rented by Fahler and Linder, who went to the Kansas City Art Institute with Beris. Eventually the project attracted noted L.A. artists like Mary Weatherford, and the idea soon outgrew the small yard. Today, the directors still almost solely program group shows, a melting pot to match their foodie vibes, with titles such as “Tropical Hot Dog Night,” “Marinade,” and “Slightly Undercooked.” Curators and artists even get involved with choosing and cooking the food served at the crowded openings, which start late and end even later. A migratory concept, BBQLA has put on shows elsewhere in L.A. and even in Toronto. Starting this year, the directors will stage a series of exhibitions inspired by American Fine Arts, an influential 1980s New York gallery, featuring artists who got their start in artist-run spaces. Shows are slated for San Francisco, Chicago, Miami, and New York. The crew is also planning a potential summer road tour, taking an RV to cities like Denver and Little Rock for a series of one-night shows. “We’re not a traditional model,” Beris says. “We’re four shitheads who decided to start this thing, and now we’re sitting at the big-kids table.” ALEXANDRA PECHMAN 44 VMAN.COM
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SELECTIONS FROM EXCELLENCES & PERFECTIONS AND PRIVILEGE BY AMALIA ULMAN, FROM THE EXHIBIT HEART OF THE TIN MAN AT M WOODS, 2017
MICHAEL XUFU HUANG
TOP: PHOTOGRAPHY DA YU, COURTESY AMALIA ULMAN AND M WOODS
PORTRAIT BY NO. 223
MICHAEL XUFU HUANG AT M.WOODS
Fresh out of college, Michael Xufu Huang is already outgrowing his It Boy label. After co-founding the contemporary art museum M Woods in Beijing at a barely legal age, for the past few years Huang could be found at art fairs the world over, and became known for collecting young artists like Amalia Ulman and Austin Lee (as well as donning colorful ensembles). These days, Huang, almost 24, is at a crossroads, having just finished his studies at the University of Pennsylvania. Rather than taking a break, he’s been working nonstop: “I’m feeling dead inside,” he jokes—this from someone who received his degree after joining the New Museum’s board of trustees. Huang is currently based between New York and Beijing while he continues to work both with museums and on new business ventures. With fellow young collector Tiffany Zabludowicz, he’s launching XU-ZA, an umbrella outfit that will help bring artists’ work into burgeoning industries, such as an upcoming project connecting contemporary art with the marijuana business. “What really excites me is finding new industries, just like when I find a new artist,” Huang says. Next, he’s planning a trip to India to take stock of the white-hot contemporary art and tech scenes. This spring, M Woods is mounting the first-ever solo show in China by pioneering video and installation artist Paul McCarthy. Given China’s strict censorship laws, the museum, which has previously held exhibitions of work by Andy Warhol and Lu Yang, will give McCarthy’s more explicit video work its due with a backdoor entrance and private viewings. In March, M Woods is also hosting the kickoff party for Art Basel Hong Kong, in what’s becoming an annual tradition: “My calendar is reserved every year for that.” AP VMAN.COM 45
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RISE AND SHINE, TIMOTHÉE Timothée Chalamet, the breakout star of Call Me By Your Name, is on the up and up as the next generation’s leading man. PHOTOGRAPHY COLLIER SCHORR FASHION ROBBIE SPENCER INTERVIEWS BY FRANK OCEAN AND XAVIER DOLAN NUMERAL DESIGN THROUGHOUT ISSUE ALEX TROCHUT 50 VMAN.COM
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Timothée Chalamet by Frank Ocean “Elio, Elio, Elio,” hums Timothée Chalamet’s character in Luca Guadagnino’s romantic dreamscape Call Me By Your Name. Over the course of a fleeting yet formative summer in early 1980s Italy, Elio falls in love with an older visiting houseguest, Oliver (Armie Hammer). Based on André Aciman’s beautiful novel of the same name, the film illustrates a narrative of grueling desire and devastating passion. Chalamet also stars in Greta Gerwig’s lauded directorial debut, Lady Bird. As the youngest Oscar nominee for Best Actor in nearly 80 years, Chalamet is redefining the role of the leading man. And, as Frank Ocean finds out, Chalamet isn’t afraid of failure. DEVIN BARRETT FRANK OCEAN Hello? This Timothée? TIMOTHÉE CHALAMET Yeah, man. This is so exciting. It is an honor to speak to you, man. I’m such a huge fan. This is going to be a real test to keep my voice level and keep this as normal of a conversation as possible [laughs]. FO You got this. Where are you, man? TC I’m in L.A. I’m from New York, but I’m here right now for the film, doing the last legs of promotion. FO I hear you. I’ve been in your hometown the past few weeks. I’m furnishing my apartment here, sticking out the cold and paying my dues to become a New Yorker, at least part time. Do people really call you Timothée all the way? TC My whole life I was Timmy and then as I got older, it seemed like Timmy was youth-ing me out, so it’s been Timothée since. I tried Timo and Tim, too. The real pronunciation is Timo-tay, but I can’t ask people to call me that; it just seems really pretentious. FO That’s cool. Where is that from? TC My dad is from France, so it’s a French spelling, but it seems like too much of an obligation to ask people to call me that. FO That’s sweet. Very selfless. Has anyone on the street called you Elio yet? TC That’s been happening. Though riding the 2 train or taking the M12 bus around the city, that hasn’t changed; I guess people don’t really give a fuck in New York. I actually
get more people stopping me for Lady Bird, and going, “Is that the douchebag from Lady Bird?” So that’s awesome. I’ve seen certain actors, or musicians like you, keep a sense of integrity and mystery. That’s ultimately what’s been really awesome about Call Me By Your Name and Lady Bird as an introduction [to me]: I was up for bigger, more commercial projects, but I didn’t get them. They just didn’t choose me, and it’s been gratifying, coming from more of a place of artistry and not just pure exposure. FO Those films are excellent. I just finished Call Me By Your Name, the novel, yesterday, for more insight before we talked. It’s a really special role and an opportune, appropriate time right now in popular culture. I think it’s also good for you that this is your opening song. It’s such a proper foundation, to do roles like these that have so much heart and vulnerability in the very beginning, completely boutique or small, but on the lips of so many. Congratulations for the work and its effect and how it’s made people feel; it’s tremendous. Tell me about growing up in New York. I’m assuming this is you in high school, the statistics rapper Timmy T. TC Oh, fuck. [Laughs.] I can’t believe you saw the statistics video. That’s embarrassing. FO [Laughs.] I saw it on Ellen. I figured if Ellen’s talking about it, then it’s fair game. Tell me about that time. TC That’s true. I went to LaGuardia, a performing arts high school. Without being “that guy that enjoyed high school too much,” a trope I don’t want to fall into, it was a really amazing place to go to school. I got to work creatively— I’m an over-exuberant guy and I can go a mile a minute, so having a place to channel that energy was really great. FO What should I see while I’m in New York? I still just Google “top five places to get pizza.” TC Mud is one of my favorite coffee shops, and Tompkins Square Bagels makes the best bagels in my opinion. East Village is my favorite neighborhood. Where are the good L.A. spots? FO The place that I go to as soon as I get off the plane usually is Ohana, this little Hawaiian/ (CONTINUED ON PAGE 56)
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SWEATER RAF SIMONS
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“It’s such a proper foundation, to do roles like these that have so much heart and vulnerability in the very beginning, completely boutique or small, but on the lips of so many.” —Frank Ocean
Korean BBQ spot in a Studio City strip mall. It’s been the same staff for the past 10 years. There are [photos of] struggling actors on the wall in frames and they have the best chicken potstickers, grilled fish, and short ribs in L.A. TC A year ago, I was in Hell’s Kitchen, [eating] bacon, egg, and cheeses, kicking it at my buddy Will’s—tonight I’m going to the SAG Awards. It’s been a nonstop, weird-ass six months—a lot of fun, but trippy, too. FO What’s the fit going to be for the SAG Awards? TC It’s going to be...“Please don’t touch my Raf, please don’t touch my Raf” [laughs]. FO We’re giving Raf [Simons] this evening. I love it. TC I’m such a fan boy. [Being involved] with fashion has been really fun, just as a fan. I don’t want to work with a stylist or anything. I’ve been following designers like Raf, Haider Ackermann, Hedi Slimane—these guys are like rock stars. They’re artists. FO Yeah, they’re artists. There’s this really great connection between all these [creative] fields. You’re finding your own creativity and being excited about that; it’s cool. I’ve been into photography for six or seven years. It’s almost like this quiet search for joy. It actually provides me with the same feeling that making a record does: imagining or dreaming about something, and then it being in the real world. TC “Dreaming a thought that could dream about a thought. / That could think of the dreamer that thought. / That could think of dreaming and getting a glimmer of God.” FO [Laughs.] Don’t do that. When you’re on set, are you method acting? TC I try to be super careful. The danger is you can end up focusing more on what’s going on off-camera than on-camera. You don’t want to be entertaining for the sake of being entertaining. The work should be the work. If it resonates, it’s going to resonate, and then people are naturally curious about how you got to that destination. It can’t be about how you’re getting to it. FO People say you get to do some movies for yourself and others you do for the studio: how do you feel about making movies that aren’t as full to the brim with emotion and real feeling as the last two movies you made? Like, how do you feel about making Transformers? TC As Kanye put it, Guillermo del Toro made Pacific Rim and that’s one of his favorite movies. His latest movie, The Shape of Water, is amazing. Christopher Nolan is tied with Paul Thomas Anderson [as] my favorite director. If one of those auteurs has a $200 million film and wants me to be a part of it, fuck yeah. FO It seems like a good change of pace sometimes to do physically demanding films—the space, superhero, aggressive, big-budget action films. TC Exactly. The project I’m jumping into is exactly that.
I’m going to put on 25 pounds—I’m like a skinny little shit right now. Listen, I saw that one of your favorite films is The Master. FO Yes. Joaquin [Phoenix], man. TC Dude, that is my favorite actor. There’s five or six artists I’m really trying to follow in the footsteps of creatively. I get the opportunity to be on the phone with one right now [laughs], but on the acting side, Joaquin is number one for me. FO The time period of 20th Century Women seems close to Call Me By Your Name, that ’80s time period. Did you get into these past eras of fashion and shit when you were doing the film? TC Absolutely. I’m a total “nostalgist” and Call Me By Your Name’s director, Luca, grew up in that time period. In fact, the book is set in ’88 and he changed it to ’83 because he said that was the year in your life you can hear music from. In the movie, there’s Talking Heads, The Psychedelic Furs, or just the Bach or Beethoven—those are all songs from Luca’s youth, what it was like for him in Italy in the ’80s. Also, in 1988, the AIDS crisis had already hit and that was part of the reasoning for making [the film] a little bit earlier too, so it wasn’t as intense, and could be a little more utopic. What a tragedy for movies now that if you want to be contemporary, phones have to be involved, with texting and FaceTime. I don’t know if [the characters in] Call Me By Your Name would ever have that relationship if there was passive-aggressive commenting and “likes.” They actually had to talk, figure each other out, and struggle with their emotions. FO And they had to wait to talk. You couldn’t just talk instantly, which I think is sometimes good for the conversation. I want to talk to you too [about] learning languages, in Call Me By Your Name. Can things be expressed or even felt differently, because of the language? TC When I act in French, it’s really shocking to me how it feels more grounding than acting in English. I grew up speaking French with my dad, but it’s not a language I have as much command over, so when I speak or act in French, the words mean so much to me; I’m so focused. So much of Call Me By Your Name is silent and plays out physically; there’s kind of a push and pull. Acting in Italian, I’m really winging it: memorizing how lines sound phonetically, just trying to get the intonations and mannerisms right, so the lines ring true to Italian audiences. FO When you were speaking Italian, was there somebody on set to call you out if it felt fake? TC We had someone on set that could correct me. Same for [playing] the piano and guitar. I did a movie called Beautiful Boy this year that involved a lot of drug sequences, and that also felt very important to get right. I had a consultant on set for that.
FO You had a consultant for the drugs? TC Exactly. It felt like a big responsibility to get that right. The movie is about addiction, and to get the actual using wrong would betray anyone’s experiences walking that path. It was very helpful. FC I could see how it would be. You have the opportunity to learn all these things—seems like the best profession in the world for the curious spirit and mind. TC I was in college for a little bit and it felt like a clear decision to not [finish]; it was scary because I didn’t want to rob myself of growing as a human. But it’s been the exact opposite: going from set to set, working with creative, open people, having mentors rooting for you. There’s education within that, I guess. FO That [Call Me By Your Name] soundtrack is super good. TC We listened to Sufjan Stevens [included on the soundtrack] with Luca and Armie [Hammer] right before we started shooting—that was an experience, to listen to that and, like, hold each other after. It’s awesome to hear you say that about the soundtrack. You’ve got to score one of my movies. FO Yeah, one of these days. How many hours of piano went into it? TC I had an Italian teacher, Roberto Solci, who had a painting of himself composing above his piano. He was absolutely brilliant and instinctual. I played a little bit of piano, but nothing like it was in the book or the movie. I worked with Roberto every day in a small apartment below Luca’s villa, and formed a really special relationship with [Solci]. FO Which school of thought are you in: that what you do is kind of in you, like a gift, this thing you’re really good at? Or, do you feel like whatever you decided to do and really believed in, you would’ve been good at? TC I think I have to go with the first. I had this feeling I couldn’t not act and yet to get there I really needed teachers, and one teacher in particular, to make me comfortable with failing. To be bad and get over it—that opened the floodgates. I did a play in New York when I was 15, after this really difficult but ultimately helpful sophomore year in high school; that’s when it kind of took off for me. I’m also really passionate about music. I want to pursue other things creatively, not so much music, but definitely writing and directing. I’m going to be very, very patient about that. The dream as an actor is to be economically self-sustainable and what this year has been is beyond that now. I’m getting a creative license of sorts. FO Cool. Well, I’m going to sign off. Best of luck tonight. TC Thank you so much for this. It’s been such an experience, sharing personal thoughts about artistry and acting with someone that’s influenced me in many ways. This means the world to me.
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JACKET BALENCIAGA TOP WOOLRICH BOLO TIE VINTAGE
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“I don’t know if [the characters in] Call Me By Your Name would ever have that relationship if there was passive-aggressive commenting and ‘likes.’ They actually had to talk, figure each other out, and struggle with their emotions.” —Timothée Chalamet
“And they had to wait to talk. You couldn’t just talk instantly, which I think is sometimes good for the conversation.” —Frank Ocean
SWEATER LOUIS VUITTON
TOP SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO
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TOP WOOLRICH JEANS SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO NECKLACES (TOP AND MIDDLE) VINTAGE FROM THE SHINY SQUIRREL
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Timothée Chalamet by Xavier Dolan The artistry of filmmaking has always preoccupied Timothée Chalamet. Fittingly, the quality of the craft is more than apparent in his first major leading role, Luca Guadagnino’s Call Me By Your Name. To prepare for being on set, Chalamet has long immersed himself in complex cinema— movies like critically-acclaimed Canadian filmmaker Xavier Dolan’s I Killed My Mother. Here, Chalamet and Dolan meet up in Paris to discuss Chalamet’s creative sights for the future, his relationship with Armie Hammer, and the realities of love and pain. LISA MISCHIANTI
XD When I saw Call Me By Your Name, I had the feeling I knew you. Although I guess that’s what movies are trying to achieve: To connect us, strangers, and make us feel that we know the characters we’re presented. TC Absolutely. I’ve been the biggest fan of your work for years. You direct films that make really strong, clear choices...the moment, in Mommy, when the actor opens up the aspect ratio—wait, I don’t want to ruin it! XD Oh, everybody has spoiled that already! Thank you, you’re very sweet. So, what kind of artist are you? What are you looking for in your experiences with directors? TC I look for a certain feeling, and I wouldn’t know how to describe it, but I know I’m always chasing it. I don’t quite know what it is that I’m after. I always like to think that the art doesn’t take place on screen, but in the audience member’s head. At a certain point I was able to come to grips with the idea to just “be.” That’s why I’m so impressed with your films, because you’re doing an incredible job just “being,” which is all I’m focused on while working. But you’re also weaving and keeping the story synchronized. XD What do you look for in a film? The vision? Emotion, uniqueness? TC My favorite movie is James White by Josh Mond, and it’s a testament to the filmmaking that I couldn’t tell where the filmmaking was. It felt like watching a man’s journey. Josh has his finger on what it is to be alive now. You keep seeing stories told with similar tropes, and that, as a viewer, is what’s scariest to me. I’m not worried about being bad in anything, because I know I’ll be bad in things, and that’s fine. But what scares me is being boring, and being part of stories I feel too familiar with, or being cynical for the sake of being cynical. XD I’m curious to hear about Armie and you. It’s a very intimate story, and the whole movie revolves around the central piece of your relationship. TC I wish everybody could hang out with Armie, because our relationship, the way it blossomed when we first met, was so conducive and helpful to what it is in the movie. I was way more inexperienced, and I knew seconds after meeting Armie that I was in the best hands. He’s an instinctual caretaker, which is part of his incredible performance in the film: his character wants to succumb to his love and desire for another human being, but also doesn’t want to hurt him. It’s best epitomized in this scene towards the end where I’m sleeping in bed, before the farewell at the train station. Oliver sits on the bed next to Elio and you see 62 VMAN.COM
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about 6,000 emotions go across Armie’s face: love, empathy, regret, and fear. There’s so much Armie in that moment; so much love there. We were also in Luca’s hands—this movie is Luca’s baby. Truer to this experience than in any movie I’ve been in, it felt like, hey, we gotta be into the director, but we gotta be into each other… XD And you were. TC We were! It was the setting, the town—culturally, if we wanted reference points it was with one another. There was pressure to do justice to the book by André Aciman, yet there was this beautiful feeling where there wasn’t pressure from it being really popular, or because there was an actor in it that sells a certain number of tickets. There was this idea that if this is gonna be good, it will be because it is. What excites me most as an artist is flow. That’s harder when the idea of show business or Hollywood is present. Maybe it was shooting in Italy, or preparing for a month and a half, or shooting with one lens, but there was flow! XD [Did Luca want you] to absorb the spirit of that space of creation? TC Yes, which is Luca’s genius. Europeans know how to waste time better than Americans do! If we had shot the film the day I stepped off the plane from New York, it would’ve been manic and maybe half as long, because we would have been running through all the beats, instead of spending time being in tune with a vision and experience of Europe. XD How has your relationship with Luca evolved now that you have not only shot the film but also traveled with it to so many places? TC I’m figuring out adulthood as I’m figuring out these relationships. I had an excellent, intimate relationship with Luca through the process, and we were always in each other’s ears, but it wasn’t what it is now. It’s certainly nothing close to being peers, but I just get him more now. He’s really a blueprint for me, in terms of what I look for in a director. XD Will this film make you more fastidious in choosing future projects? TC I’ll be very careful with what I do next. But I understand how difficult it’ll be to replicate the experience I had. With Luca, we were shooting in his town, sitting in his screening room, watching movies he loves. Luca has worked with his editor, producing partners, camera people, costume designer, etc. for 25 years. So you’re stepping into a system. It’s almost like the Warhol factory. That’ll be difficult to find and match. XD You’ve said Call Me By Your Name is a celebration of love. But do you feel it is equally, and perhaps even more, about pain? People say how mature this film is, and I wonder if “mature” is just a word we use for a movie that open-heartedly talks about pain, and celebrates it as well. TC I don’t disagree. Pain, after all, is mostly what Michael [Stuhlbarg]’s monologue is about. During that scene, I had a little voice at the back of my head saying, Hear this. Fucking hear this. When you’re suffering, or grieving, the only thing you can control or protect yourself from is the added layer of shame, beating yourself up over heartbreak, or forbidding yourself the pain. But there is no right way to grieve or suffer. If it ever was about pain— the pain that relates to heartbreak or love—it’s about how to deal with it. READ THE FULL INTERVIEW ON VMAN.COM
1/26/18 7:00 PM
JACKET BALENCIAGA TOP WOOLRICH
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“What kind of artist are you? What are you looking for in your experiences with directors?” —Xavier Dolan
TOP AND RINGS GUCCI SHORTS GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY BOOTS CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC
“I look for a certain feeling, and I wouldn’t know how to describe it, but I know I’m always chasing it. I always like to think that the art doesn’t take place on screen, but in the audience member’s head.” —Timothée Chalamet
HAIR HOLLI SMITH (ART PARTNER) MAKEUP FRANCELLE (ART + COMMERCE) DIGITAL TECHNICIAN JARROD TURNER PRODUCTION PETER MURRAY PHOTO ASSISTANT PJ SPANIOL III LIGHTING ASSISTANT ERIK SNYDER, CAL CHRISTIE STYLING ASSISTANT ARYEH LAPPIN MAKEUP ASSISTANT RYO YAMAZAKI PRODUCTION ASSISTANT MAY KIELANY, KAT BAYARD, MAT SILWA LOCATION GARY’S LOFT
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The early hours were made for sprucing up, brushing, and indulging before the day ahead. Head to VMAN.com for exclusive videos to kickstart your day.
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A FINE POUR
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Drawn to pourovers when grabbing a cup on the go? Caffeinate at home in the same fashion with a Chemex, the tried-andtrue minimalist, user-friendly brewing device.
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ON THE RUN
Jules Horn makes a splash in the season’s adventurer-influenced athleticwear. PHOTOGRAPHY NATHANIEL GOLDBERG FASHION DAVID BRADSHAW 72 VMAN.COM
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CAP AND SHORTS (THROUGHOUT) STYLIST’S OWN JACKET EMPORIO ARMANI
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TOP BOSS GREY JACKET (AROUND WAIST) ADIDAS GREEN JACKET (AROUND WAIST) LOUIS VUITTON
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JACKET LOUIS VUITTON
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SWEATSHIRT JOHN VARVATOS JACKET (AROUND WAIST) ADIDAS SUNGLASSES ALAIN MIKLI WATCH OMEGA
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CAP AND SHORTS STYLIST’S OWN SWEATSHIRT DSQUARED2 JACKET (AROUND WAIST) TOMMY HILFIGER WATCH OMEGA
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JACKET BEN SHERMAN SUNGLASSES OLIVER PEOPLES BACKPACK ARMANI EXCHANGE WRISTBANDS AND WATER BOTTLE ADIDAS BELT STYLIST’S OWN
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JACKET AND BACKPACK BURBERRY JACKET (AROUND WAIST) WOOLRICH
MAKEUP SALOI JEDDI HAIR VI SAPYYAPY (MANAGEMENT+ARTISTS) MODEL JULES HORN (IMG) PRODUCTION AYMEN BOURJINI (SHAKE PRODUCTIONS) ON-SET PRODUCTION SOFIA TIRADO DIGITAL TECHNICIAN HEATH MCBRIDE PHOTO ASSISTANT IAN RUTTER, MICAEL PREZIOSO STYLIST ASSISTANT MEL ULTEM PRODUCTION ASSISTANT HECTOR CRUZ, LUCAS HABERMANN EQUIPMENT ONE SOURCE STUDIOS LOCATION: LOCATION RESOURCES CATERING MANUK CATERING
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Get your blood pumping with three hardcore workouts. K.C. McLoughlin, a trainer at NYC’s The Dogpound, breaks it all down. Head to VMAN.com for videos of the sweat sessions in action.
PHOTOGRAPHY CYCY SANDERS FASHION BRITT BERGER
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GROOMING SCOTT MCMAHAN (KATE RYAN) MODELS RALPH SOUFFRANT (NEXT MODELS), DUSTY LACHOWICZ (FORD MODELS), MATT MCMAHON (NEW YORK MODELS) SET DESIGN TAYLOR HORNE (MHS ARTISTS) PHOTO ASSISTANT ALEX RAPINE STYLIST ASSISTANT CLAUDIA CARACCIOLO SET DESIGN ASSISTANT MORGAN JOHNSON LOCATION THE DOGPOUND
TONE UP
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RALPH GETS IN THE RING
SWEATSHIRT UNIQLO
“Boxing is such an effective exercise because it increases your endurance, strength, speed, and coordination. Controlling your breathing is the most important thing in boxing. Footwork is just as important: it is the foundation that must be established in order to execute punches and have good defense. If you don’t have a strong foundation in your feet, it doesn’t matter what you do with your hands.”
DUSTY WEIGHTS AROUND
“This is a modified version of a one-arm tricep extension: as opposed to coming behind the head, bring the dumbbell to the side of the head. It’s a variation that works out a different part of the tricep because of the angle the dumbbell comes down, with the elbow rotated at a more external angle. For proper form and execution, lower the dumbbell onto your shoulder or behind your head, while maintaining the upper arm’s vertical position. Extend the arm until straightened, only using your forearm; repeat.”
TOP Y3
TOP UNIQLO
MATT HAMMERS AWAY
“The sledgehammer-to-tire improves core, hip, forearm, and grip strength as well as upper-back mobility, and can reduce back pain. Proper form is important: Stand two to three feet away from the tire with feet hip-width apart. Bend your knees into a quarter squat. As you lift the hammer into a half-circle motion and the hammer travels overhead, bring your top hand down four inches from your bottom hand. Using momentum generated from your hips, slam the hammer into the middle of the tire.”
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GETTING DRESSED
Presley Gerber test drives deconstructed daytime looks—leather, cowboy boots, and tanks included. PHOTOGRAPHY THOMAS LOHR FASHION TOM VAN DORPE 82 VMAN.COM
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VEST SACAI SHIRT VALENTINO PANTS AND BELT (THROUGHOUT) BALENCIAGA NECKLACE TOM WOOD SHOES CHURCH’S EARRING (THROUGHOUT) HIS OWN
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TOP DIOR HOMME
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VEST SACAI COAT AND SHIRT ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
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JACKET COACH 1941 TOP CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC HELMET SCHUTT NECKLACE TOM WOOD
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VEST AND SHIRT HELMUT LANG SEEN BY SHAYNE OLIVER
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TOP AND BOOTS CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC NECKLACE TOM WOOD
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SHIRT PRADA NECKLACE TOM WOOD
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SCARF DIOR HOMME
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VEST AND SHIRT HELMUT LANG SEEN BY SHAYNE OLIVER COAT AND PANTS HUGO HUGO BOSS NECKLACE TOM WOOD BOOTS CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC
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JACKET GIVENCHY
GROOMER SABRINA SZINAY (THE WALL GROUP) MODEL PRESLEY GERBER (IMG) PRODUCTION CLEVELAND JONES STYLIST PRODUCER DEREK MEDWED (MANAGEMENT+ARTIST) DIGITAL TECHNICIAN KENNY AQUILLES PHOTO ASSISTANT TOM WEATHERILL, SCOTT SIMPSON STYLIST ASSISTANT VESPER WOLFE PRODUCTION ASSISTANT GEORGE RIOS VMAN.COM 93
INTO THE GROOVE
These six acts are sonically defining 2018, one track at a time. 94 VMAN.COM
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1/29/18 1:18 PM
ZEDD WEARS JACKET BOSS
ZEDD
GROOMER NICOLE DEL RIO PHOTO ASSISTANT MORGAN PHAROH LOCATION BLACK CHAPTER NYC
PHOTOGRAPHY IAN MORRISON FASHION ANDA & MASHA
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Zedd is the furthest thing from just another DJ. The 28-yearold Grammy-winning musician and producer, born Anton Zaslavski (he doesn’t care which you call him), is humble and soft-spoken, and that’s apparently how he’s always been. “I consider myself a polite person, and I’d want to be treated with respect as well,” Zedd explains. Whatever Zedd’s doing, it’s working. The Russian-born artist, who grew up in Germany before coming to the U.S., achieved his biggest hit to date with “Stay,” featuring Alessia Cara. The track was his first number-one single on Billboard’s Top 40 chart, and may become the precursor to a new album. Zedd has made a habit of collaborating with distinctive, young female singers, starting with “Clarity,” his breakout 2012 single with Foxes. He happened to meet Cara at a recent awards show, and subsequently asked her to be on “Stay.” It was the kind of organic meeting-of-minds he prefers. “My strategy is always to make sure that the singer is comfortable,” he says. He had a particularly fortuitous run-in with Kesha that started with a Twitter conversation and led to her first released recording in three years, a remix of his “True Colors.” It helped open the floodgates for support of the pop singer amid legal battles alleging sexual assault against her former producer, Dr. Luke. She was finally able to put out an album last year that spawned the hit “Praying,” and Grammy nominations. “I’m super happy. I don’t take any credit in it,” Zedd says. “But it can be really easy for a small gesture to achieve something really big. It’s not like your gesture or your move is everything in the universe—you’re just a little part of it—but maybe your action will inspire someone else to do something.” PAUL SCHRODT
1/26/18 7:20 PM
THIS SPREAD: MARTIN GARRIX WEARS CLOTHING, SHOES, ACCESSORIES ARMANI EXCHANGE 96 VMAN.COM
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MARTIN GARRIX
PHOTOGRAPHY CAMERON MCNEE FASHION CHRISTIAN STROBLE
GROOMER BENJAMIN THIGPEN (STATEMENT ARTISTS) PHOTO ASSISTANT ZACK GARLITOS LOCATION PIER 59
Martin Garrix has seemingly accomplished everything a DJ can. The 21-year- teachers who flock to Garrix’s gigs in his hometown of Amsterdam. Playing sold-out shows where he grew up—and where he first witnessed DJs that old Dutch artist ranked number one on DJ Mag’s “top 100” list in 2016 and 2017, the award’s youngest-ever recipient. He’s worked with everyone from have now segued from childhood icons to close friends—is a particular pop titan Troye Sivan to electronica veteran Tiësto, the latter of whom Garrix treat for Garrix. credits with inspiring him to become a DJ in the first place. Garrix also However, he feels most creative when he’s on the move. “I get so inspired launched his own record company, STMPD RCRDS, in 2016. on tour, meeting new people, seeing different cultures and amazing locations Perhaps more accurately, Garrix is redefining what a DJ can achieve. His —I’d go crazy if I couldn’t make music on the road,” he says. He’s particularly ubiquitous presence at music festivals, production for other artists, and excited about recent solo shows in Asia, but he’s most familiar with headlining knack for social media (he’s accrued over 14 million Instagram followers) festivals. “I went to my first Coachella four years ago, and remember walking has catapulted Garrix from musician to veritable one-man brand. Music and around like, Where the fuck am I?” Garrix recalls. He still has trouble believing it when he sees his name on festival flyers. He often attends even when fashion often dovetail—think Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, and Lady Gaga—yet he’s not playing: “I have the time of my life.” Garrix’s love of electronica and it doesn’t occur very often with electronic artists. Cue Garrix, who fronted festival culture hasn’t diminished over time; when he is playing, it’s for fun, Armani Exchange’s Fall 2017 campaign. not fame. “I honestly don’t give a fuck about numbers,” Garrix remarks on Despite this plum fashion gig, Garrix insists he’s far from glamorous behind his idea of success. “At Tomorrowland, I saw a couple get engaged while I the scenes. “In the end, I’m a computer nerd,” he admits. “I produce music and I play guitar.” Those who know this side of him are likely the people that played [the song “Pizza”], and for me that’s one of the most [clear indica still call him by his real name, Martijn Gerard Garritsen—family, friends, and tors that], Okay, this song is a success.” MATHIAS ROSENZWEIG
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MOSES SUMNEY PHOTOGRAPHY MAT+KAT FASHION CECE LIU
Singer-songwriter Moses Sumney crafts his soulful, wistful tracks in precisely the sort of environs his sound portends: as off-the-grid and remote as possible. “I’m most inspired by being in nature, [like] the mountains in North Carolina or Big Bear outside L.A.—those are the places where I wrote most of my album,” he says of his debut LP, Aromanticism, which dropped in September. “I like to live in a little cabin as often as possible, and just delve deep into solitude.” Raised in Southern California and Ghana, Sumney has been writing songs since age 12. He’s been in L.A. for the past seven years, first as a student at UCLA, then as an opening act for local band King. His solo career took off five years ago. “I put two songs on the Internet and buzz just started to build,” he recounts. Of his signature sound, Moses says, “Emotional songs just resonate with me on a deeper level; they’re cathartic and satisfying. I’ve made some upbeat songs, but none of them made the record because the more melancholic stuff just resonated deeper.
Experiencing the depth of human emotion is something I’m obsessed with.” Sumney culls inspiration from India.Arie, Nina Simone, Ella Fitzgerald, the Smashing Pumpkins, and Stevie Wonder, and while he can’t single out a specific mentor, Sumney’s work (and music industry know-how) evolves thanks to “being on tour with musicians I respect, like Sufjan Stevens and James Blake.” A track recorded with the latter could roll out eventually, Sumney hints: “There might be something in a vault somewhere, it could see daylight at some point. He’s phenomenal, really talented.” Sumney’s past collaborations have been equally impressive, including a song on Solange Knowles’s last album. “We met on Instagram: I just commented on her photo and she was like, ‘Hey, I like your music,’ and that was it—it’s really weird, a very modern story,” he says. For the past nine months, Sumney has been nomadic, due to touring and a desire to leave L.A. “Now I don’t really live anywhere. I travel nonstop,” Sumney says. “I’m learning how to wear the same thing every day!” ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV
GROOMING LAUREN CITERA SET DESIGN MARILOU CHABERT LOCATION FADE STUDIOS
MOSES WEARS JACKET FAITH CONNEXION SHIRT SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO PANTS WILLY CHAVARRIA NOSE RING HIS OWN NECKLACE 1-100 BRACELET AMBUSH RINGS CHROME HEARTS SOCKS FALKE SHOES JEFFREY WEST
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MOSES WEARS JACKET AND TOP CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC JEWELRY HIS OWN
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EDEN WEARS JACKET BALMAIN TOP (THROUGHOUT) JOHN SMEDLEY
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EDEN WEARS SHIRT LOUIS VUITTON JEANS LEVI’S
GROOMING BEN TALBOT (THE WALL GROUP) LOCATION CRE8STUDIO
EDEN
PHOTOGRAPHY SCANDEBERGS FASHION WARREN LEECH For Jonathan Ng, music has always been a compulsion. He was singing along to the radio back when lyrics were just jumbled syllables to him. There was no “aha” moment. There was no point in time when he thought, I want to start making music now. At eight years old, Ng wrote over other artists’ lyrics and later, when he learned how to play instruments, he created his own words from scratch. “I don’t know why I did, or why I still do, to be completely honest,” he says. “It just feels like I should.” Now 22, the classically trained producer and singer-songwriter is on the rise. When he initially began making music in his home country of Ireland, there wasn’t much of a scene for his work to fit into because there was a deficit of producers. But it’s evolved, and so has Ng’s identity: while he was in school he went by the stage name The Eden Project. He then proposed a business plan with projected artist earnings to his parents to let him drop out of university, which they “weirdly” accepted. “Fast forward maybe a couple of months, and I was earning from Spotify alone what I thought I would earn from selling my music everywhere,” he says. During that time, he changed his moniker to simply EDEN. In 2016, Ng released his debut EP as EDEN, i think you think too much of me, which focused on his vulnerable vocals and synth-heavy instrumentation. The first single from the EP, “sex,” even caught the attention of Lorde, who professed her love for it on Ng’s Facebook wall. It proved a well-earned career boost.
This January saw the release of Ng’s first-ever full-length album, vertigo. Before he knew how the songs would sound, Ng knew that would be the record’s title—it’s something he says was deeply rooted in his mind. While pop remains a unifying thread of the album, the tracks are a melting pot, the result of diverse influences such as My Chemical Romance, Frank Ocean, Phoebe Bridgers, and Sampha. As different as the songs on vertigo may be, their seamless coherence can make it hard to tell where one ends and another begins—and that was the intention. “I wanted it to be listened to as a whole,” Ng says of the album. “When I was writing [the record], I really wanted to abandon any expectation or preconception about what kind of songs I wanted them to be, or how they might build or not build.” Ng was just as thoughtful about the track names as he was about the way they flowed. “To me the song titles offer another way to inform the narrative or emotion of the music,” he says. The stylization of names like “forever//over” or “love; not wrong (brave)” are as poetic as his description of making them. “Looking back, it’s weird how they are so indicative of the ideas and concepts that were on my mind and run through the music, and of my obsession with the sky,” he muses. Overall, uncomfortable as it might be for Ng, vertigo is about self-examination and exploring his insecurities. It’s about his journey of self-reflection. And ultimately it’s about creating something he loves without compromise. ILANA KAPLAN VMAN.COM 101
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PORCHES
PHOTOGRAPHY CLEMENT PASCAL FASHION MARCUS ALLEN Being a twentysomething is an experience fraught with change—personal, professional, and otherwise. The 29-year-old Aaron Maine, better known as indie rock act Porches, knows the attendant terror and excitement well. Since dropping out of the arts program at Purchase College, State University of New York, he’s worked frustrating day jobs, moved from his quiet hometown in Pleasantville, New York to New York City, and experienced the dissolution of a long-term relationship. After years of recording music in his spare time, Maine has also released Pool, his acclaimed debut from Domino Records, which received Pitchfork’s coveted “Best New Music” stamp in 2016 and afforded one of the most fortuitous shifts in his life thus far: the ability to make music for a living. “[Music has] kind of been my sustenance for the past few years, which never ceases to amaze me,” Maine says from his new Chinatown apartment, the horns of passing cars scoring his resonant monotone. Prompted by the aforementioned breakup, Maine relocated while completing his latest album, House. After setting up an in-home studio, his music proved a welcome and cathartic distraction. “Even though it was hard to adjust and work on the album in a new room, it helped to have this constant goal throughout all of these transitions,” he explains. “If I was feeling lost, I could point all of my energy toward completing the album, and that felt really comforting.”
Arguably Maine’s best project under the Porches moniker (he also composes as Ronald Paris), House sits comfortably between indie rock and indie pop, as he utilizes everything from propulsive synth melodies (“Find Me”) to autotune (“Anymore”) and crisp, punchy drums that sound directly imported from the ’80s (“Now the Water”). No matter the instrumentation, Maine manages to combine intimate portraits of love with raw, unflinching introspection. Lead single “Country,” for instance, is a slow, meditative ballad that builds on one poignant image after another. With clipped yet pointed lyrics, he renders the physicality of romance with a specificity that cuts to the bone (“Watch the water drip / From my mouth to yours / I like how you take a sip”). “For some reason, certain simple instances have more gravity to me, and I feel compelled to put them in a song,” Maine says. “I search for meaning in the seemingly mundane.” Of late, little in Maine’s life seems humdrum. Having just returned from a vacation in Oslo, Norway with his new girlfriend, he’s preparing for a 38-date, cross-country tour this spring and handling press for the record. He’s also working incessantly on the next Porches album. For now, at least, the changes seem for the better, and Maine is embracing each one. “I’m just trying to keep making as much [music] as possible, outdo myself, grow, and nurture this relationship that I’m in. I’m excited.” MAX BELL
GROOMER MATTHEW TUOZZOLI (ATELIER MANAGEMENT) PHOTO ASSISTANT SHAWN MCCARNEY STYLIST ASSISTANT PHOENIX JOHNSON LOCATION CLEMENT PASCAL STUDIO
PORCHES WEARS JACKET RAF SIMONS SHIRT UNIQLO TOP (UNDERNEATH) AND JEWELRY (THROUGHOUT) HIS OWN
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JACKET PRADA SHIRT UNIQLO SHORTS RON DORFF
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THE MARTINEZ BROTHERS
STEVIE WEARS SHIRT FENDI
PHOTOGRAPHY GIACOMO CABRINI
STYLIST LUCA SMORGON (ATOMO MANAGEMENT) GROOMING GIUSEPPE LORUSO (S MANAGEMENT) STYLIST ASSISTANT REBECCA BALDANZINI LOCATION MILANOSTUDIO
For Chris and Stevie Martinez, the world is one big creative playground. The brothers from the Bronx—who DJ together as The Martinez Brothers—have been on extensive national tours over the past decade. During the rare moments they’re sitting still, they’re often doing a residency at electro hotspots like Ibiza. They’ve come a long way from when their dad put them in the local church band as kids, a move that kickstarted an interest in music that has, obviously, withstood the test of time. “I feel like when it comes to DJing—I say this in the most humble tone—but me and my brother got it,” says Chris when asked about his confidence as an artist. “Just getting on the decks and vibing with people and wanting to bring a happy energy to the dance floor...I think that’s what we do really well.” “That’s not to say we don’t get nervous in front of 10,000 people,” Stevie chimes in with a laugh. But Chris’s self-assurance is deserved. The duo has acquired nearly a million followers on their combined social channels, become two of the most coveted names in house music, and collaborated
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with a wide array of artists, most recently Rudimental from the U.K. Their joint track “No Fear” features Donna Missal’s assertive, roughly textured voice layered over swelling synths and a throbbing base to brilliant effect. The brothers have also been collaborating with fashion titans. In 2014, they went to Paris to soundtrack Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy shows. It launched the pair into a fast-moving trajectory that has yet to stall. In 2017, the duo created a track with fellow DJ Seth Troxler for the Louis Vuitton x Supreme commercial, providing the sonic backdrop for one of the fashion world’s most buzzed-about collabs. The same year, the duo also became members of Fendi’s millenial-focused #FisforFendi, a unique digital platform for sharing content and experiences about game changers in art, culture, music, and of course, fashion. Lately, they’ve begun designing clothes themselves. “We recently did some hats with New Era, which were super successful,” says Stevie. “That was a dope outlet to showcase our artwork.” According to Chris, Stevie handles most of the pair’s own artwork, and thus transitioning into design was only natural. Just as The Martinez Brothers extended their reach into the fashion world, they believe that their genre of house music (which remains relatively niche, despite its often uncredited impact on global top hits) will continue to broaden in popularity. “You even got people like Lil Yachty saying he wants to make techno music...I think in 2018, a lot more people are going to get recognition and get a lot more into it.” MATHIAS ROSENZWEIG
1/26/18 7:20 PM
AFTERNOON STROLL Ten of the industry’s brightest stars take a midday break in spring’s key trends. PHOTOGRAPHY CAMERON MCNEE FASHION CHRISTIAN STROBLE 106 VMAN.COM
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SHIRT AND PANTS CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC
JACKET TOMMY HILFIGER NECKLACE DAVID YURMAN
TOP BALMAIN JACKET, PANTS, SHOES BELSTAFF
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JACKET TOM FORD
HAT HIS OWN JACKET, SHIRT, PANTS COACH 1941
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JACKET, SHIRT, PANTS GIORGIO ARMANI
TOP AND PANTS BOSS
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JAAD IN WHITE VMAN.COM 113
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GARRETT IN STRIPES
THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE BOTTOM: TOP, PANTS, BELT, SHOES LANVIN
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TOP SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
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SHIRT, TOP, SHORTS, SHOES LOUIS VUITTON
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NECKLACE CHROME HEARTS
JACKET, TOP, SHORTS, SHOES ARMANI EXCHANGE BRACELET CHROME HEARTS
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JUMPSUIT MISSONI
JUMPSUIT BOSS
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SCOTT IN METALLIC JACKET, SHIRT, PANTS GIORGIO ARMANI NECKLACE JOHN HARDY
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JACKET, SHIRT, PANTS GIVENCHY BRACELET CHROME HEARTS
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SHIRT, PANTS, BELT PRADA
GROOMING (DAY 1, 3, 4) ROBERT MEFFORD (ATELIER MANAGEMENT), (DAY 2) SCOTT MCMAHAN (KATE RYAN INC) MODELS (DAY 1) JAAD BELGAID (NEXT MODELS), PIETRO BALTAZAR (NEXT MODELS), BONNER BOLTON (IMG), (DAY 2) GARRETT NEFF (IMG), JACOB HANKIN (SOUL ARTIST MANAGEMENT), MATTHEW TERRY (FORD MODELS), LIAM DANIELS (NEXT MODELS), (DAY 3) KIT BUTLER (SOUL ARTIST MANAGEMENT), RYAN KENNEDY (IMG), (DAY 4) SCOTT NESLAGE (SOUL ARTIST MANAGEMENT) DIGITAL TECHNICIAN (DAY 2) CHRISTOPHER BLYTHE, (DAY 4) MICHAEL CARDIELLO PRODUCTION TESSA MAXWELL, MOLLY CARROLL (THE PRODUCTION FACTORY) PHOTO ASSISTANTS (DAY 1) ZACK GARLITOS, (DAY 2) ETHAN CALABRESE, PARKER FEIERBACH, (DAY 4) OUSMAN DIALLO LOCATION ROOT STUDIOS
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GET IN THE GAME
A squad of athletes and models muse on the spirit of sport in styles fit for the city streets. PHOTOGRAPHY BOO GEORGE FASHION DEB WATSON 128 VMAN.COM
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EROS HITS THE WAVES “My mom and dad always pushed me into being athletic; I had so much energy as a kid, I had to get it out one way or another. I traveled around the U.S. at a young age playing soccer, my favorite sport growing up. I started surfing at age eight, and at 13, I started doing surfing competitions, which slowly evolved into a full-time surf career. Coming home to my first surfboard that my mom got me, sitting on the porch by the front door wrapped in bubble wrap, was a day that helped me be the person I am today. Surfing really frees my mind; it puts me into another world. It’s so meditative.”
EROS EXARHOU, PRO SURFER JACKET AND PANTS THADDEUS O'NEIL SHIRT DSQUARED2 BACKPACK VANS SHOES ADIDAS
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JAMAL BREAKS A SWEAT “When I was two or three years old, my mom gave me a classic baby basketball hoop for Christmas and I dunked on it every day! Growing up, I watched old tapes of Michael Jordan playing basketball and doing interviews. I really admired his artistic approach to basketball and his work ethic. He talked about how he didn’t make his high school basketball team at first, and how he’d stay up every night until he made a certain number of shots. Each dunk was so beautiful and elegant. Basketball is still by far my favorite way to exercise. On Sundays, I often go to basketball courts and play pickup with my friends. In basketball, there’s so much communication involved, all the time. I love the way that artistry comes into play while making a layup or dunking. You have to get really creative when you are in the paint and there are multiple guys hovering over you. There is only one opening, and only one clear shot; you have to contort your body to make it.”
JAMAL SCOTT, BASKETBALL ENTHUSIAST TOP Y-3
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JAY GOES FOR A ROW “I grew up playing basketball, baseball, and soccer, and later moved on to wrestling, sailing, and downhill skateboarding. My current fitness routine is yoga two days a week and lifting weights six days a week, accompanied by some form of cardio, whether it’s stairs, sprints, or my favorite, boxing. The rush from working out is pretty hard to describe; in the moment it feels like anything is possible, like you can’t be stopped. The only feeling I love more is the sense of euphoria after yoga.”
JAY KING, CROSS TRAINER COAT BOSS JACKET (UNDERNEATH) AND PANTS Z ZEGNA SNEAKERS ADIDAS X RAF SIMONS
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“Competing is such a headgame. It’s a high and a low: one minute, you’re on top of the world, you’re in first place, and it can change in one wave.” –Eros Exarhou
SWEATER GUCCI JACKET AND PANTS JUNYA WATANABE UNDERWEAR HIS OWN BACKPACK VANS SHOES BOSS
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AUSTIN GETS IN GEAR “Growing up as an aspiring BMX rider, I looked up to the craziest dudes in the game, like Chester Blacksmith, Sean Burns, and Alex Liiv. I always wanted to be a professional BMX rider, I just wasn't sure how to do it. Once I made my way out to Cali, I knew that my passion could turn into my job and that motivated me more than anything. The main thing about BMX culture that keeps me going is the freedom it gives me. This passion of mine has taken me to many different places around the world and introduced me to so many great people. Competing isn’t really my jam, but the adrenaline you get when overcoming fear and conquering something that has put you through the ropes? That’s a pretty damn good feeling.”
AUSTIN AUGIE, BMX RIDER TOP PRADA JEWELRY HIS OWN
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TYLER SHREDS THE PAVEMENT “I do a headstand every morning for the duration of a song, and I skateboard regularly. After every skateboard session, I feel like I’ve pushed my physical body to the point of collapse. I don’t really derive adrenaline from skating; I feel like it’s much more meditative because it requires a clear headspace. I’ve always really idolized Mark Gonzales for his creative spirit and pioneering attitude. For me, he stands out as a true individual.”
TYLER BLUE GOLDEN, SKATEBOARDER TOP BALENCIAGA TOP (UNDERNEATH) LOUIS VUITTON TOP (AROUND WAIST) ADIDAS PANTS DSQUARED2 NECKLACE DIOR HOMME SHOES CONVERSE
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ROCKWELL SETS SAIL “I’ve had a never-ending obsession with fútbol [soccer]: I just thought it was the most beautiful thing in the world. It became more than a sport; it was a dance. A form of expression. It was precious. My earliest memories of playing fútbol are playing in Spanish leagues in public school gyms all over Brooklyn. We call it ‘Papi League,’ and it easily is one of the most important parts of my life. It helped shape who I am, and will forever be a sacred experience. Ronaldinho was the best player to ever play; I looked up to him like a father figure. Fútbol is my drug; I play every day. It makes me feel like I’m a kid again. It’s my healthy addiction.”
ROCKWELL HARWOOD, FÚTBOL FANATIC VEST AND SWEATER Z ZEGNA TOP (UNDERNEATH) NOAH PANTS Y-3
MAKEUP YUKI HAYASHI (STREETERS) USING MAKE UP FOR EVER HAIR THOM PRIANO (FOR R+CO) MODELS AUSTIN AUGIE (IMG), ROCKWELL HARWOOD (IMG), EROS EXARHOU (WILHELMINA), JAY KING (RED), TYLER BLUE GOLDEN (NEXT), JAMAL SCOTT (ST. CLAIRE) CASTING SYDNEY BOWEN (STREETERS) DIGITAL TECHNICIAN BROR LVEFELDT PHOTO ASSISTANTS MATHEW JOY, MARK LINCOLN, RYAN GARCIA STYLIST ASSISTANTS CAROLINE SHIN, KAVANAUGH OKTAVEC MAKEUP ASSISTANT TASHI HONNERY MOVEMENT DIRECTION EMMA CHADWICK (STREETERS) SET DRESSING GILLE MILLS (THE MAGNET AGENCY) POST PRODUCTION STUDIO RM LOCATION PIER59 STUDIOS
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SUMMER OUTING
Relaxed silhouettes and muted colors convey a sophisticated nonchalance. PHOTOGRAPHY ARNO FRUGIER FASHION MITCHELL BELK 136 VMAN.COM
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BENJ WEARS HAT NEIL BARRETT TOP, SWEATER (AROUND WAIST), PANTS DIESEL BLACK GOLD SNEAKERS DIOR HOMME YOUSSOUF WEARS CLOTHING ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SHOES FENDI
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ELI WEARS HAT AND SNEAKERS Y3 JACKET AND PANTS EMPORIO ARMANI SHIRT VALENTINO BAG ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
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SOL WEARS JACKET, PANTS, BAG PRADA SHIRT BERLUTI
MAKEUP LINDA GRADIN (L’ATELIER NYC) HAIR TAMAS TUZES (L’ATELIER NYC) MODEL YOUSSOUF BAMBA (RED MODEL MANAGEMENT), BENJ DRAPER (IMG), ELI EPPERSON (NEXT), SOL GOSS (VNY MODELS) VIDEOGRAPHER CHARLIE OWENS PRODUCTION TESSA MAXWELL (THE PRODUCTION FACTORY) DIGITAL ASSISTANT JENNIFER CZYBORRA PHOTO ASSISTANT STEFANO ORTEGA, VADIM KRIZHANOVSKY STYLIST ASSISTANT IVAN DUTTON PRODUCTION ASSISTANT PASCUAL FIGUEROA LOCATION FLOYD BENNETT FIELD CATERING GREEN BROWN ORANGE CATERING
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SUNSET SCREENING Four supremely talented young actors worth watching. PHOTOGRAPHY LUKE GILFORD FASHION SEAN KNIGHT 140 VMAN.COM
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CHARLIE PLUMMER
THE NE X T- GEN RIVER PHOENIX
CHARLIE WEARS COAT GUCCI
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Charlie Plummer is late to his interview because he’s been shopping at Bed Bath & I told my manager when I first met her—who I’ve been with since I was 10—I never Beyond. The fresh-faced 18-year-old actor just moved into his first very own apart- want to do film or television for my entire career.” Shortly after, he ended up on HBO’s Boardwalk Empire, starring Steve Buscemi. He commuted into NYC so often, he had ment in Manhattan’s Upper West Side, and he’s still adjusting to the responsibilities it requires. “I’ve never shopped for home goods before, so I had my parents on the to transfer to an “expensive private school” in the city for children with artistic pursuits. phone to talk me through what to get,” he explains apologetically. “My parents are so supportive. They said, Okay, we’ll figure that out,” he remembers. It’s one of many firsts for Plummer. After starting out as a child actor playing small Plummer hasn’t been in a physical school for years, but his roles have provided TV parts, he’s entered the rarefied orbit of award-winning films just as he hits man- their own education. He reunites with Buscemi under director Andrew Haigh (Weekend, hood. He plays the kidnapped 16-year-old John Paul Getty III in All the Money in the 5 Years) in the acclaimed indie drama Lean on Pete, in theaters March 30. Plummer World, alongside screen giants like Michelle Williams, Mark Wahlberg, and Christopher stars as a teenager from a broken home who forms a tight bond with a racehorse Plummer (no relation). that ultimately leads to a dangerous situation. His boyish face is still and quiet, but A few years ago, Plummer considered dropping acting to pursue his passion for expresses internalized grief and hardship far beyond his years. Critics have deservedly football management, but now has conviction about staying in Hollywood. “I had one compared him to the late River Phoenix. Plummer avoids reading press, but confesses of the most incredible experiences in my life on a film set,” he enthuses of All the Money that the reference led him to watch every single Phoenix film he could get his hands in the World, recalling conversations with Williams, director Ridley Scott, and Romain on, starting with Stand By Me. “My mind was just blown. I’d never seen a young actor Duris “about what I really want to be doing with the rest of my life.” He adds, “I learned do what he did in that film,” he says. from people who have been doing this for decades; that, to me, is the greatest thing Meanwhile, Plummer’s performance in Lean on Pete is the kind of breakout role that in the world. So the idea of saying, I’m going to separate myself from any possibility could pave the way to becoming a leading man, not unlike Phoenix. Yet he’s cautiously of doing that, is really hard.” optimistic. Buscemi gave him critical advice during the last couple weeks of shooting He was practically born for the job. The son of theater veterans Maia Guest and John the movie, when his costars had left and he was alone in the middle of the desert. “I Plummer, his parents put him in local stage productions while he was growing up in was really nervous about it,” Plummer says, “and he told me, Just enjoy it, appreciate it, because you might never get this experience again.” PAUL SCHRODT Cold Spring, New York. Six shows later, he asked to do it professionally. “I remember 142 VMAN.COM
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THIS SPREAD: CHARLIE WEARS SHIRT FENDI NECKLACE HIS OWN
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ROSS LYNCH
THE DISNEY STAR DOES DAHMER
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THIS SPREAD: ROSS WEARS JACKET AND PANTS STELLA MCCARTNEY NECKLACE HIS OWN
Ross Lynch rose to fame on the Disney Channel’s Austin & Ally, a saccharine tween “Once I arrived in Bath, Ohio and we were in the house that he actually lived in, I was comedy that wrapped after four seasons in 2016. A year later, he starred as the titular in his clothing, [and] my hair was like his—I’d look in the mirror, and I could see him character in My Friend Dahmer, a strikingly different role and his first serious film project. looking back at me,” Lynch says. Besides figuring out how to depict a psychopath in the making, Lynch contended “We think of Jeffrey Dahmer as one of the most notorious serial killers in American history. The way My Friend Dahmer paints him is not necessarily sentimental, but it’s an hon- with some goriness—though, not nearly as grotesque as Dahmer’s later, truly harest take on how this young man became so deranged and detached,” Lynch explains. rowing crimes: the rape, murder, and dismemberment of 17 men that made him infaChanneling a serial killer during his troubled formative years was “a really interest- mous. “I couldn’t be squeamish at all while handling this actual dead cat that we got ing process,” Lynch says, made more challenging by the wide range of other roles he from a taxidermist; you literally could not mask the smell,” Lynch says. “We soaked it played in a month-long span. Directly before filming My Friend Dahmer, Lynch worked in alcohol, we tried everything. This thing just smelled so bad. But for Jeffrey Dahmer, on Status Update, a comedy about a magical app that makes social media updates it’s what he did, all hours of the day; he wanted to be in his shed dissecting animals, come true (Lynch likens it to a modern-day John Hughes flick). He then did a stint playing with their bones, so I really wanted to approach the scene in a stoic manner.” in A Chorus Line at the Hollywood Bowl, and immediately after, My Friend Dahmer Lynch began acting in summer camp plays around age six, and also took dance started shooting. As a result, Lynch really had to switch gears emotionally: “I went classes. His first professional gig —dancing in a Macy’s fashion show—“gave me and my family faith that we could possibly take a whack at this industry, just see what hapfrom playing the ‘normal’ high school kid in Status Update, who, instead of battling with temptations of killing things [laughs], struggles with liking this girl; then I played pens,” he says. The family then moved from Colorado to Los Angeles. Lynch is also a kid in a ballet; and then I played a serial killer—but the whole time, Jeffrey Dahmer in a pop-rock band, R5, with his siblings Rocky, Riker, and Rydel, plus family friend was in the back of my head.” Ellington Ratliff. The actor-singer-songwriter will likely be adding to his multi-hyphenate Lynch prepared for the role via a video clip of Dahmer from after his arrest, talking status soon: he’s interested in directing eventually, and, in the nearer future, hopping about his motives and childhood. The actor watched it almost every morning on set in the cockpit. “I’m pretty close to getting my pilot’s license—I really love flying planes. before shooting, to emulate Dahmer. Setting and wardrobe furthered the transformation: It’s very therapeutic.” ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV VMAN.COM 145
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MILES WEARS TOP PRADA PANTS AMI ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI NECKLACE HIS OWN
Long before the dawn of Netflix, Miles Heizer was binge-watching television. “I remember when I was growing up, for me and my mom it used to be our favorite thing to go to Blockbuster and rent a TV show [to watch all at once],” recalls the Kansas native of his pioneering take on the viewing method du jour. “We did that with Dexter and we were like, This is so cool! It’s so much better watching it this way!” It seems only fitting that Heizer was an early adopter of the phenomenon that would one day solidify his stardom. After spending six years as a regular cast member on the NBC family drama Parenthood, Heizer hit a bit of a career lull. He moved to Nashville and was ready to abandon acting altogether when his manager brought him the script for the now-famous Netflix series 13 Reasons Why. Heizer landed the major role of Alex Standall, and when season one of the show garnered sudden, explosive popularity (as well as some controversy for its teen suicide subject matter), the spike in Heizer’s public profile was proportionally epic. “I was so used to being on a show that comes out week by week in a very slow process. It’s so strange that you work for such a long period of time, like half a year, and then all in one day everyone watches it,” explains Heizer. “And it was definitely weird as far as social media goes. It was very much overnight, going from no followers to having, like, a million followers. My friends were all texting me and making fun of me about that!”
Heizer is now fresh off filming the hotly anticipated second season of 13 Reasons, and this March you can spot him in the big-screen dramedy Love, Simon, which centers on the story of a closeted gay teen and has Twitter buzzing with excitement over its LGBT narrative positioned for a mass audience. “It’s so cool to have a mainstream studio movie about someone who’s dealing with their sexuality,” notes Heizer. “Most movies about that are smaller, and people have to go out of their way to see them. [Many of those movies] don’t even come out in some parts of the country.” Coincidentally, the film also features his 13 Reasons costar Katherine Langford, making for a deja-vu-inducing filming experience: “We’re shooting in a high school, and Katherine is there, but it’s not 13 Reasons Why—very weird,” quips Heizer. But really, considering Heizer’s whole body of work, the high school setting has all but become his second home. “It feels like I’m constantly living in a high school hallway,” says Heizer with a chuckle. “We’re all too old to be in high school, but we’re all still living it.” The ultimate irony is, despite his endless days spent in class and cafeterias, he never attended a traditional high school himself. “I did, like, a weird charter school. You basically taught yourself, and I had the same teacher the whole time. I actually recently ran into his wife and she was like, Yeah, Mike still has your diploma—you never picked it up!” At this point, he’s more than earned it. LISA MISCHIANTI
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MILES HEIZER
THE NETFLIX SENSATION
MILES WEARS JACKET, PANTS, BELT BALENCIAGA
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KELVIN WEARS HAT JENNIFER OUELLETTE JACKET GUCCI TOP VINTAGE
KELVIN HARRISON JR. THE BRE AKOUT DR AMA TALENT
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GROOMER NIKKI PROVIDENCE (FORWARD ARTISTS) PHOTO ASSISTANT JACK JULIAR STYLIST ASSISTANT INDIA MADONNA LOCATION ERWIN HOTEL
KELVIN WEARS JACKET GUCCI NECKLACE VINTAGE
Kelvin Harrison Jr. calls his acting career a “complete accident.” Raised in New Orleans is based, and watch the original Roots, as he was growing up and attending a preby musician parents, the 23-year-old studied piano and trumpet in high school, but dominantly white school. “He would say, You don’t know that you’re black, do you?” he satisfied his thespian urge via musicals. Through a friend, he discovered what he Harrison says. But Harrison has gained insight through his racially charged projects: thought was an opportunity to be an extra in 2013’s Ender’s Game, which then led to “I’ve been learning a lot about myself and what it means to be a young black male in auditions; eventually he was cast in the Oscar-winning 12 Years a Slave. America through these films.” If it was an accident, it was an exceedingly happy one. Harrison has since steadily That’s not all that hits close to home. The script alone for It Comes at Night, in honed his craft, taking on bigger roles in acclaimed, hard-hitting dramas, including which a family protects itself against a post-apocalyptic backdrop, made him cry. “The The Birth of a Nation, the remake of TV miniseries Roots; the survivalist horror movie house [in the movie] always reminded me of my experience during Hurricane Katrina It Comes at Night; and Netflix’s Mudbound, about tensions between white and black and being displaced. It struck a chord with me,” he says. “That was really scary, being families living on a Mississippi farm after World War II. Despite award nominations for 11 years old during that time. You kind of think it’s a vacation until it’s not a vacation.” The most terrifying thing for Harrison right now is just figuring out how to compose the latter, Harrison’s own family keeps him humble, as seen on a recent trip to visit them from his new Los Angeles home base. “My dad was like, Take your trumpet. You himself around costars. He recently got the chance to work with Laura Dern on the need to practice. This is where your talent lies,” Harrison laughs. upcoming JT Leroy, about the stranger-than-fiction literary hoax. “You see why she’s Harrison’s movies so far share a startlingly forthright approach to racism. In Monster, a legend. Ahhh, she’s the ultimate actor,” he says of Dern. While doing Monster, he just one of three projects he had at Sundance this year, he stars as a young filmmaker befriended his singing idol, Jennifer Hudson, who plays his mom in the movie. “She and honor student who’s charged with murder and gets caught up in a complex legal was like, Hey baby, and I was like, Hey Ms. Hudson,” he breathlessly recalls of their battle to prove himself innocent. The resonance with today’s political climate was also first encounter. Hudson, who was about the same age as Harrison when she went on not necessarily part of the actor’s plan. “It just happened to work out the way it did. American Idol, offered up words of encouragement: “That was the beginning of her The stories are there,” he admits. “It never crossed my mind. I lived in a very sheltered career, and she was like, This is the beginning of yours, and I’m so excited to share home.” He remembers his dad making him read the memoir on which 12 Years a Slave this moment with you,” he says. “She’s just so sweet.” PAUL SCHRODT VMAN.COM 149
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DINNER IS SERVED
Chef Jordan Kahn, the visionary behind the high-concept tasting menu at Vespertine, crafts edible spring-inspired masterpieces exclusively for VMAN. PHOTOGRAPHY NICHOLAS ALAN COPE TEXT ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV 150 VMAN.COM
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PORCINI DISH: Butter-roasted porcini mushrooms, pureed with raw hazelnuts and deodorized cocoa butter; shucked raw wild peas and tendrils; ground pumpkin seeds, forceseparated in a centrifuge to extract the oil; trout roe, cold-smoked with almond wood; green gooseberries harvested in summer 2017 and preserved in salt brine.
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CUCUMBER DESSERT Opposite page: roasted and caramelized almonds, ground to a fine paste, rolled into tiny spheres; cucumber custard made with eggs, butter, and milk; meadowsweet flowers steeped in almond milk, then whipped to a meringue-like consistency; rambutan, peeled and cut into slivers; redwood shoots blended with water, unripened grape juice, and sugar, then frozen and scraped into a granita.
Over the course of chef Jordan Kahn’s career, he’s toiled in some of the finest, most directional kitchens of all time, like The French Laundry, Per Se, and Alinea. In July 2017, he unveiled his magnum opus: Vespertine, an otherworldly labor of love that’s fascinated critics, baffled diners, and intrigued Instagram scrollers. “It was, and is, the project of my career; I won’t achieve anything greater,” Kahn says over the phone, as he drives 45 minutes outside Los Angeles to harvest Douglas fir pine from a 14,000-foot-elevation forest for a new dish. Savannah-bred Kahn’s culinary roots date back to assisting his Cuban grandmother in the kitchen. Graham Kerr and Jacques Pépin’s PBS shows also fueled his passion, as did a fateful Christmas gift at age 13 from his mom: The French Laundry Cookbook. “It was a really defining moment for me, a snapshot into the most elite version of something I was interested in,” Kahn says. “To say it was inspiring is an understatement.” Kahn began cooking professionally in Savannah at age 15. Two years later, he achieved his teenage dream: working under Thomas Keller’s tutelage at The French Laundry. Kahn then went back east to New York City to work on the opening pastry team at Keller’s Per Se, and next hopped over to Chicago to help launch Alinea, another hugely influential tasting menu temple. “When I learned what Grant [Achatz] wanted to do at Alinea, it was a place I had to go to,” Kahn explains. The chefs had missed each other by a month at The French Laundry, and Kahn was told he reminded people of Achatz. “Later, he became a really important mentor.” Then, Kahn worked at now-shuttered Varietal in NYC, then Michael Mina in San Francisco, and helped open XIV, another Mina spot in L.A. “I fell in love with Los Angeles and decided to stay,” he says. In 2010, Kahn co-launched Red Medicine, “a punk rock Vietnamese place that evolved into something more formal and creative.” After it shuttered, Kahn grew enamored with the Culver City area and began the secretive, four-year process of conceiving Vespertine, where
wildly creative, frequently revolving dishes cost $250 per head. In 2016, Kahn opened Destroyer, a cafe (and unplanned side project) across the street from Vespertine’s striking, waffle-esque, Eric Owen Mossdesigned structure. Vespertine dishes start with a sketch by Kahn or a single ingredient, and are intended to flummox. To wit: when the restaurant opened, the first course resembled volcanic ash. It’s actually bastard halibut aged for three days, sliced very thin, lighty pounded, and pressed into a roughly-textured fireclay bowl painted with salt-cured plums, chopped herb stems, and a dollop of yogurt—all topped with puffed tef and dusted with onion meringueglucose mix that’s stained jet black with squid ink. “It really looks crazy; you couldn’t tell where the dish began and where the bowl ended,” Kahn says. “People thought we were fucking with them, serving an empty bowl. It sets a really good tone; things are not what they seem.” Kahn doesn’t read reviews, but recalls a quote from Los Angeles Times food critic Jonathan Gold, who ranked Vespertine the city’s top restaurant of 2017. In a radio interview, “Jonathan said, ‘This is the very first restaurant I’ve ever been to where I could not separate the food from the experience; it fucked with my process.’ To me, that’s the ultimate compliment,” Kahn says. Kahn looks to art for inspiration. Even the staff uniforms are high-concept, by Brooklyn-based designer Jona Sees: long tunics, cropped pants, goatskin slippers, and natural charcoal-dyed aprons woven on a 800-year-old Japanese loom used for samurai undergarments. “The apron actually comes with instructions on how to put it on,” Kahn laughs. The dishware is a mix of custom pieces by a sculptor-ceramicist, plus items Kahn sketches and has 3D printed. Pondering whether each breathtakingly plated dish is, in fact, actually edible is precisely the point. “Vespertine is essentially a place where art and food intersect,” he says. “We’ve intentionally tried to be really nebulous, but everything we do is very premeditated.”
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SUNGLASSES AT NIGHT Lucky Blue Smith makes a persuasive case for shades after dusk, styled in the season’s new-wave standouts. PHOTOGRAPHY HUGH LIPPE FASHION KARLA WELCH 154 VMAN.COM
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THIS PAGE: JACKET AND SHIRT BALENCIAGA SUNGLASSES VINTAGE OLIVER PEOPLES
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CLOTHING COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS JEWELRY (THROUGHOUT) LUCKY’S OWN
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COAT, VEST, PANTS GIVENCHY SHIRT SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO
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CLOTHING BALENCIAGA
PANTS RON DORFF
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CLOTHING BALENCIAGA SUNGLASSES VINTAGE OLIVER PEOPLES
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JACKET GIVENCHY SHIRT AND TIE SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO SUNGLASSES ALAIN MIKLI
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JACKET, VEST, PANTS BRIONI T-SHIRT XKARLA WATCH OMEGA
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SUNGLASSES VINTAGE OLIVER PEOPLES
GROOMING MIRA HYDE (THE WALL GROUP) USING TATCHA SKINCARE AND LIVING PROOF HAIR MODEL LUCKY BLUE SMITH (IMG) PRODUCTION MAXINE FERTIG-COHEN, DANIELLE GIARDINA (NAVIA VISION) PHOTO ASSISTANT JAMIE STRACHAN STYLIST ASSISTANTS GRACE WRIGHTSELL, KRISTEN KIEHM
A SMOOTH SIP Superb libations served up in the most luxurious of vessels. PHOTOGRAPHY THOMAS LEGRAND MARKET EDITOR MIA SOLKIN 164 VMAN.COM
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1/24/18 9:03 AM
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GLASS HERMÈS WITH 1800 TEQUILA
GLASS FENDI WITH LOCA LINDA MALBEC WINE
GLASS VERSACE WITH MAISON PERRIERJOUËT CHAMPAGNE
GLASS ARMANI WITH MONKEY SHOULDER SCOTCH
1/26/18 3:22 PM
DANCE NATION
Wrap up a packed day by letting loose with some moves and grooves, outfitted in party-approved looks from Dsquared2. Check out the full routine on VMAN.com. PHOTOGRAPHY CYCY SANDERS FASHION BRITT BERGER CHOREOGRAPHY JAVIER MADRID 166 VMAN.COM
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ALL CLOTHING, SHOES, ACCESSORIES (THROUGHOUT) DSQUARED2
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HAIR ERIC WILLIAMS (WALTER SCHUPFER) MAKEUP DANIEL AVILÁN (THE INDUSTRY MGMT) MODELS HANNAH FERGUSON (IMG), ZURI TIBBY (IMG), CHASE HILL (IMG), FRANCISCO ESCOBAR (IMG), JONATHAN RODRIGUEZ (NEXT MODELS), EDDIE SCHIMERMAN, JAVIER MADRID PRODUCTION ALEXEY GALETSKIY STYLIST ASSISTANT EMILY BENZ CATERING MONTERONE CATERING LOCATION BABY’S ALL RIGHT
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BEDTIME
Cozy up in sumptuous, stylish linens by Swedish brand Magniberg. PHOTOGRAPHY ANDREAS JOHANSSON FASHION OSCAR LANGE TEXT DEVIN BARRETT 170 VMAN.COM
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Everyone wants to sleep with Magniberg. Or, they should at least. The Swedish home label, named to reflect modern expression, quality, and craftsmanship, combines a cerebral mix of materials and color to create some of the most stylish bedding on offer. “It’s like matching a pair of tailored suit trousers with your favorite T-shirt. It’s about finding a balance,” explains co-founder and designer Bengt Thornefors. “We asked ourselves what luxury is today and we felt that the standards had to be reviewed. The market is and has been very stereotypical; a bit too decorative.” Prior to his foray into interiors, Thornefors held fashion design posts at Acne Studios and Saint Laurent during Hedi Slimane’s tenure. After all, as he explains, “it’s akin to clothing.” Items are not sold in sets, but instead on their own, highlighting the unique textures. The “sex” range features wares outfitted in cotton mesh, while “mother” offers crisp poplin variations. Pieces are engineered for mixing, matching, and layering. Joined by Nina Norgren, the brand’s graphic designer and florist, the two have also orchestrated a world surrounding Magniberg. While bedding was the first introduction into the label’s visual DNA, now natural wood furniture and sculptural florals punctuate soft linens. “We wanted to present home textiles in a new context, giving people the opportunity to combine mesh, poplin, lace, silk, linen, washed jersey, and sateen to give it a more personal energy,” he says. “What we offer is a wardrobe.” VISIT VMAN.COM FOR MORE ON MAGNIBERG
KERKKO WEARS JACKET, SHIRT, TIE, SOCKS, SHOES MONCLER GAMME BLEU JEANS LOUIS VUITTON BELT OUR LEGACY BEDDING AND FURNITURE (THROUGHOUT) MAGNIBERG
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LEFTERIS WEARS JACKET AND PANTS BALENCIAGA SHIRT AND SHOES OUR LEGACY
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HAIR AND GROOMING ERIKA SVEDJEVIK MODELS KERKKO SARIOLA (NISCH MANAGEMENT), LEFTERIS B (STOCKHOLMSGRUPPEN) SET DESIGN BENGT THORNEFORS LOCATION ANNAELLE GALLERY
KERKKO WEARS JACKET BALMAIN SHIRT, PANTS, SHOES GIVENCHY
1/24/18 11:02 AM
VMAN INDEX 7:00 AM
7:15 AM
RISE AND SHINE, TIMOTHÉE
MORNING RITUALS PAGE 68
PAGE 50
With turns in two of 2017’s most acclaimed films, Timothée Chalamet is the next gen’s leading man. PHOTOGRAPHED BY COLLIER SCHORR
Everything you need to optimize your AM regimen. PHOTOGRAPHED BY CYCY SANDERS STYLED BY BRITT BERGER
STYLED BY ROBBIE SPENCER
7:30 AM
7:45 AM
FRESH BREW
ON THE RUN
PAGE 70
PAGE 72
Java gets an added jolt courtesy of some seriously elegant designer cups.
Jules Horn takes this season’s action-driven sportswear for a spin on the beach.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS LEGRAND
PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL GOLDBERG STYLED BY DAVID BRADSHAW
8:30 AM
9:30 AM
TONE UP
GETTING DRESSED
PAGE 80
PAGE 82
Three excellent workouts for strength and stamina.
A fresh take on daytime dressing, as seen on Presley Gerber.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY CYCY SANDERS
PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS LOHR
STYLED BY BRITT BERGER
STYLED BY TOM VAN DORPE
11:00 AM
1:00 PM
INTO THE GROOVE
AFTERNOON STROLL
PAGE 94
PAGE 106
Cue the soundtrack of 2018.
On the town in spring’s key looks. PHOTOGRAPHED BY CAMERON MCNEE STYLED BY CHRISTIAN STROBLE
174 VMAN.COM
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A cheat sheet of Spring/Summer 2018’s best looks; buzziest actors, musicians, and athletes; and essential grooming rituals. Explore every moment in the VMAN’s jam-packed day, and for more, head to VMAN.com.
3:00 PM
4:00 PM
GET IN THE GAME
SUMMER OUTING
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PAGE 136
Exploring the spirit of sport with a squad of athletes and models in styles fit for the city streets.
Lounging around in relaxed silhouettes and muted colors.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY BOO GEORGE
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ARNO FRUGIER STYLED BY MITCHELL BELK
STYLED BY DEB WATSON
6:00 PM
7:30 PM
SUNSET SCREENING
DINNER IS SERVED
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PAGE 150
The rising actors we have our eye on.
Chef Jordan Kahn’s edible masterpieces spectacularly defy convention.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY LUKE GILFORD STYLED BY SEAN KNIGHT
PHOTOGRAPHED BY NICHOLAS ALAN COPE
9:00 PM
10:00 PM
SUNGLASSES AT NIGHT
A SMOOTH SIP PAGE 164
PAGE 154
Lucky Blue Smith shows there’s nothing wrong with wearing shades after dusk.
Cheers to fine liquors in the most luxurious glassware. PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS LEGRAND
PHOTOGRAPHED BY HUGH LIPPE STYLED BY KARLA WELCH
11:00 PM
12:00 AM
DANCE NATION
BEDTIME
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Bust a move in Dsquared2’s partyapproved looks before calling it a night.
Swedish brand Magniberg brings sweet dreams.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY CYCY SANDERS
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDREAS JOHANSSON STYLED BY OSCAR LANGE
STYLED BY BRITT BERGER
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1/26/18 6:21 PM
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1/29/18 1:49 PM
US $6.95 DISPLAY UNTIL AUGUST 22, 2018
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