Issue N o11
FA S H I O N
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FA S H I O N
ISSUE No.11
‘70s - inspired
Hip & Runway : ‘70s Spring 2015 trends by Sarah Holden
In Designer : Boulevard Chanel by Kat Evans
Keeping up with Kendall Jenner : by Hannah Oulton.
Viva La Gaultier : Saffron Alexander delivers a tribute to Gaultier’s final show.
Hypnotic Fever : Voir connects with the spirit of Studio 54 to reinvigorate disco glamour.
Lilac Wine : Anna Eve captures the essence of Spring in this beautiful editorial.
In Focus : Painted Ladies by photographer Nataly Danina
Anatomy of an Artist : The graphic art of Bo Lundberg by Felix Laurens
Just My Type : Punk rock meets Swiss Modernism in the ‘Swissted’ world of Mike Joyce
Print in Print : Marianne Tupelo reviews the latest tome on the Pucci dynasty.
1970s Glamourzon : Marianne Tupelo explains why Charlotte Tilbury is hot right now
Basque-ing in Authenticity : A Voir Living exclusive inside the world of Pintura Bar & Kitchen
Aired : Dial M for Melissa - A clandestine insight into the acting world of Melissa J Woodside.
One Hedi Cocktail : Louise Fisher brings us the spirit of Saint Laurent.
April/May
Rediscovering Antonio Lopez : Mark Leigh reviews a new book on the great illustrator.
SPRING ‘15
Director’s Cut : I Predict A Riot - Voir takes to the streets in high-fashion protest
Spring Issue 2 Covers
Editor’s Letter Alexander reveals why Jean Paul Gaultier takes his final bow at the SS15 runways.
The trends of the Flower power and protest era aka the 1970’s came back in full force throughout the Spring Summer ‘15 runway shows. We saw them in every possible incarnation – be it Prada’s continued fascination with the decade or Emilio Pucci’s bohemian spirits. This is the season to think desirable denim, suede and fringing galore!! Designers such as Tom Ford and Saint Laurent transported us to a modern-day 70’s disco - we’re talking flares, platforms and lots of glitter. I wrote nearly a thousand words on how this issue came about, the struggles the difficulties and the highlights. I even concluded that this had been one of the most challenging to date. Then having chewed over it for the last couple of days, I decided to tantalise you with these positive snippets….. Issue 11 is jam-packed with more than a few fashionably-haute articles and editorial photographic stories. Find out why we’ve been keeping up with Voir’s cover star Kendall Jenner. And our trend reporter Sarah Holden reminds us “what goes around comes around” this season. Meanwhile, Kat Evans goes behind the scenes at “Boulevard Chanel” and the one and only Karl Lagerfeld, whilst Saffron
Having spent an entire day with the inspirational Charlotte Tilbury, it was only a matter of time before she graced Voir’s beauty pages. Discover why Ms Tilbury is the most talked about MUA of the moment, and why you need to be investing in the famous studio 54 inspired Glamour Muse look. Also keep a look out for our delicious beauty trends as well as new season hair insights from Karen Dodds. Our ‘Lifestyle’ team have been indulging at the coolest city hang out - Pintura Bar & Kitchen and brought back with them an authentic flavour of Spanish cuisine. Finally, if sending an assortment of femme-fatales out onto the streets in pure high-fashion protest, fails to whet your appetite, then you had better get your ‘Guest List’ pass ready for the hot ticket to the ‘Studio 53’ [aka Voir HQ] ‘Hypnotic Fever’ disco. The question is will you go Hippie Chic or Disco Diva? If this glitterball doesn’t send you into a fashion frenzy, Heaven knows what will! I think I’ve given enough away! It’s now time to be VOIRED. Jyoti X Email; Jm@Voirfashion.co.uk Twitter @Voir_Fashion
APR/ MAY ‘15
fashion
Photograph Š Catwalking.com
HiP &RUN
Y A W
by Sarah Holden at Cricket www.cricket-fashion.com Images courtesy of catwalking.com
What goes around comes around. And then it comes back. No sooner were we raiding thrift shops, trawling eBay and rooting through our parents wardrobes for those unique throw backs that would render us queens of eclectic style i.e. Carrie Bradshaw, then we were turfing it out (tat!) for street couture, all leather everything and black. Platforms became single soles (unlucky for those of us under 5’ 10”), tan was wiped from the colour wheel entirely, sports luxe was a way of life and running in heels was just so last decade because darlings…..we discovered
wedge trainers and high tops. Well this is what I love about fashion. Fashion never lets us rest on our laurels for long despite the past few seasons being a tad lazy on the old trend spectrum. Just as we’ve mastered the art of urban cool, androgynous tailoring and dressing like our boyfriends along comes a blast from the past70’s style! It’s what pen and paper and Polaroid film is to us Tweetie pies, Instagrammers and Snap Chatters back in the day and quite frankly, we needed it!
roll came clean and pressed, tailored and embellished on the spring summer runways, as pure denim was sent down the catwalks at Chloe, Stella McCartney and Gucci in the way of A-line mini dresses, military buttoned skirts and folk-inspired pinafore tops. At Saint Laurent denim mini skirts and jackets exuded a vintage sensibility - love-worn and softened whilst Burberry’s denim jackets were lined in luxe shearling and worn over the fairytale evening dresses and layers of delicate tulle. Double denim enjoyed a rebirth at Fendi and Chloe whilst Dolce and Gabbana opted for opulence in the way of super jewelled jeans worn with braid-embroidered suits and trophy belts all of which were topped It’s not as literal as a screen shot from off with platform shoes and gladiator The Good Life, but fashion has taken sandals. the 70’s and given it a contemporary finish - a high gloss luxe appeal with This season perennials weren’t just princesses! Vintage-inspired an edge of modern reason and unde- for patchwork swathes of summer fresh niable cool. florals were seen wafting down the Welcome back blue denim. What once catwalks of Stella McCartney, Erdem, was ripped, distressed and rock ‘n’ Saint Laurent and Victoria Beckham, Admittedly I am struggling with the notion of donning A-line denim, flares and going back to boho right now but I’ve done it before and I know I can do it again. And make it different! The new icons of fashion have been unveiled and they don’t require their other half to strengthen their media power, dictate their wardrobe or post 57 selfies, belfies or pictures of their burgeoning pouts on a daily basis. Brains, beauty, maturity and legendary cool are de rigueur of the spring summer campaigns - cue iconic singer songwriter Joni Mitchell for Saint Laurent and 80 year old novelist and prolific writer Joan Didion for Céline. Feeling refreshed? You will be!
Dior went ditsy and Dolce opted for more optical graphics infused with an oversized polka dot (swoon!). Céline’s defining moment was those mismatched seventies-inspired flower power jumpsuits and floor length dresses that powered down the catwalk oozing all the nostalgia of a bygone era but with modern-day appeal that came from the clean palettes, rich scarlet infusions and arm sashes. Spring and summer 2015 is the season of the haute hippie and whilst chiffon, feathers, crochet. and lace were key it was the abundance of fringes on the catwalks that captured the Coachella spirit. From Saint Laurent’s fringed
leather waistcoats and neck ties to Emilio Pucci’s hyperbold fringed pants and ponchos, the look was as literal as it was enchanting. The flip side of this season’s happy hippie vibe was a more refined take on the trend seen at Céline and Proenza Schouler where the look was far more clean and modernised - elongated silhouettes, fringed skirts and cut-outs worked in viscose knits, leathers and silks. Take it or leave it this time but rest assured - what goes around comes around, so if you don’t revel in the nostalgic trend this season, you’ll be revelling in a retro future sooner or later. Guaranteed! SH
STYLE
Blue
GENES
Follow in the footsteps of Marques Almeida, Stella McCartney and Burberry and make denim your new DNA. 1. River Island 2. Topshop 3. Saint Laurent 4. Louis Vuitton 5. Diesel 6. Missoni 7. Stella McCartney 8. Stella McCartney 9. Burberry Brit 10. ChloĂŠ 11. Joel 12. Karl Lagerfeld 13. House of Holland 14. APC available at Net-A-Porter 15. Balmain 16. LK Bennett 17. Charlotte Olympia 18. Chic Nova.
STYLE
Easily
SUEDE
Allow yourself to be seduced by this extremely popular material this Spring - Summer 2015. 1. Isabel Marant 2. Saint Laurent 3. River Island 4. Philip Lim 5. Top Shop 6. Saint Laurent 7. ASOS 8. River Island 9. New Look 10. ASOS 11. New Look 12. Theory 13. Topshop 14. Giuseppe Zanotti 15. Chalotte Olympia
Photograph Š Catwalking.com
Who is cutting their way to the top in the world of fashion? In-Designer focuses the attention on what is exciting and different.
“Where you do go after the supermarché?” asks Karl Lagerfeld, “You go back to the streets”. And this is exactly where we find Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Words by Kat Evans, Images catwalking.com
Like last year’s oh-so-fabulous supermarché, this wasn’t just any street, it was Boulevard Chanel. Never one to do things by halves, creative director Lagerfeld once again did not disappoint as he so cleverly created his own Parisian street inside Paris’ Grand Palais, complete with zebra crossings and, yes, even a Chanel street has a puddle or two. As if it was paved with gold, Lagerfeld’s Boulevard attracted some of the world’s biggest models. Cara Delevingne, Joan Smalls, Kendall Jenner, Georgia May Jagger and Gisele all strolled along Boulevard Chanel, making it look just like any other fashionable street... well, almost. The clothes, the setting, this show was always set to make headlines around the world and sure enough, Chanel’s offering for the S/S ’15 season and its foray into feminist protesting was the highlight of Paris Fashion Week, hell, the season. Chanel has become well known for its imaginative catwalk offerings during fashion weeks – the shows almost as spectacular as the clothes themselves. Lagerfeld somehow has a knack for switching the fashion world up and breaking the rules. Spring/Summer
2015 stayed true to this and rather than the usual catwalk of models one by one, Chanel’s models came out en masse. The audience’s eyes and ears were bombarded from the start with different looks all at once, as the models strolled down the rue de la mode in pairs or alone dotted across the street, chatting casually as if we’ve taken a trip in to Chanel’s everyday world, all led by Chanel muse, Cara D. Individuality, personality and fun have been injected into both the ready-towear clothes and the show. Chanel’s trademark tweed, quilted bags, jackets and androgyny all featured, but have been given an up-to-date twist. The 70s were clearly the decade of the season as vibrant, psychedelic 70s prints adorned silk shirts, knee-length boots and skirts and were teamed with loose-fitting tweed trouser suits and high-waisted pleated skirts. Hippie peace signs sat side-by-side with the double C logo and emblazoned on bags, while the trouser shape clearly in flavour at Maison de Chanel this season was the flare. Chanel has always been about empowering women to wear what they want and it seems Karl wanted to have a little fun with that this season.
The man himself said that fashion goes hand in hand with feminism and he wanted to create a collection that could be worn at any time, looks that could literally step straight off the catwalk and on to the street. We see work wear in the form of power suits, evening wear in metallic chainmail-esque gowns, day wear in khaki suede jumpsuits and flowing blouses with tailored high-waisted shorts – sure enough, he’s thought of every occasion for the Chanel woman. Lagerfeld said this collection is ‘modern, updated feminism’ – clothes for the professional woman of today. And how else would you finish off a collection which tackles such a topic? With a high-fashion protest, of course. Rather than the procession that can usually be found at the close of a show, the models regrouped and marched down the runway with placards reading slogans such as ‘Make Fashion not War’, ‘Ladies First’ and ‘Boys Should Get Pregnant Too’, to name just a few with Cara on the quilted megaphone, leading the procession. Bringing a whole new meaning to ‘street-style’, Chanel reinforces the empowerment that it wants women to feel when wearing Chanel while still being modern and fresh. While tweed may not always be the ‘go-to’
fabric, with Chanel it does, and always has, just worked. The masculine edge of the tailoring, the free-spirited and undone styling gives a modern edge to Chanel’s independent woman. The elegance of Chanel’s signature palette of black, white and navy are all still heavily featured, but a myriad of intense and energetic colours join them. There’s almost a hint of throwing back to 70’s flower power in the print that dominates the collection, emblazoned on silk shirts, trousers, skirts and of course, the Chanel jacket. Even this classic of the Chanel brand hasn’t escaped reinvention, and keeping the feminist edge, the buttons are on the ‘men’s’ side. No stranger to causing rumblings amongst the fashion flock, Chanel has once again shown us why they command the top spot of every fashion week and season. Addressing a modern issue such as feminisim through fashion, in almost a tongue-in-cheek way that only Lagerfeld could do, and get away with, proves the genius of the Chanel powerhouse. So what next for Chanel? Better take cover because I predict a high-fashion riot! KE
CATWALKING.COM
KEEPING UP WITH The reality rise of Kendall Jenner. By Hannah Oulton
Take a notoriously famous family, pluck a diamond gal and watch intently as she defies the seemingly inescapable clutches of reality fame. Said diamond being THE Kendall Jenner and proverbial family being the Kardashian Klan. Famous seems a slight understatement. Thrust into worldwide fame at a tender age of 11 through the cult reality series Keeping Up With The Kardashians, Kendall was and still is - a key figure in the changing face of reality and social media alike. This nonchalantly beautiful 19 year old is on the tip of everyone’s tongues and no prizes for guessing why! Mesmerizingly beautiful and ridiculously cool to boot, with a social media following of 9.6 million on Twitter and a whopping 19 million on Instagram, Miss Jenner is taking the social and fashion world by storm...one glance at her account and it’s instant obsession! Catapulting from tentative teenage model to ‘The Next Big Thing’ has been a whirlwind of fashion shows, red carpets - she presented at the 2014 Billboard Music Awards FYI - and a myriad of insanely amazing campaigns and editorials. Building a high-fashion professional profile is no mean feat when the shackles of reality drag behind you, yet this blossoming flower has overcome her (unavoidable) famous family ties which she says ‘have almost worked against me’. Kendall has kept her head down, played it simply and despite all the odds, become a high profile model; ironically making her dream her true reality. Her ultimate break came in February 2014 for New York Fashion Week: Marc Jacobs, baby. Her agency, The Society, scored a meeting with the woman in-the-know, editor and stylist Katie Grand, who then told her long-standing colleague Mr. Jacobs that Kendall ‘looks amazing in the clothes’ and THAT runway look was born. Take a seductively sheer top and an undeniably dark and mysterious beauty and, at just 18, this girl instantly saturates Twitter and Instagram in a frenzy of fashion folly; a buzz that hasn’t died down since. Who’s breaking the internet now, Kim?
Sashaying down the Autumn Winter ‘14 runway for none other than Givenchy, Giles Deacon AND Chanel (once you bag the Chanel, you know you bagged the career), Kendall fast became Karl Lagerfeld’s latest muse: the teenage dream. Throw in some utterly fabulous cover shoots, a Chanel Couture show or two - yes, we know, swoon-worthy - then add a touch of fashion royalty: Emilio Pucci, Fendi, Balmain and heavenly Dolce & Gabbana (to name a mere few) to her runway repertoire for Spring Summer ‘15 and behold a seasoned fashion star. Miss Kendall threw caution to the wind and showed us exactly what she is made of; demurely decadent, gorgeously grungy and seductively sexy, this gal can nail it all. Adding kindling to the Kendall fire and fresh off the runway, Miss Jenner is fast becoming the face of fashion. With Marc Jacobs and Givenchy Fall ‘14 campaigns safely tucked under her Céline belt, it came as no surprise that this must-have striking beauty is also Karl Lagerfeld’s front girl for his Spring ‘15 campaign, along with the rumour mill churning at her stepping in some Spring Summer ‘15 Chanel shoes too! Fashion forays are not the only pie Kendall has her jewel-encrusted fingers in; late last year she was named the new face of beauty powerhouse Estée Lauder. Being the younger sister of Kim, Khloé and Kourtney, beauty has been a major part of Kendall’s life and, along with her irrefutable adoration on the social scene, her appointment of their campaign star was a no-brainer! Not only did Estée Lauder break the news in a non-traditional way, i.e through Kendall’s own social media account, within 48 hours their website also received 90% more first time visits that ever before. With a firm fashion career ahead of her, Kendall really has struck out on a limb and been found amongst the brightest young stars in the industry. Changing the face of fashion with her dual identity spanning from reality to high society, this young lady’s cult following resounds with the likes of those models of the 90s. Move over Kate and Naomi, there’s a new girl in town and her name’s Kendall; just Kendall and she’s moving into a new age of globalisation. Or was it world domination.... H.O
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DIRECTOR’ CUT s
I predict a If you’re gonna protest, do it in style. Concept, Styling & Photography : Voir Creative
Kymberley Jefferson : Hair Styling Stacey Borg : Make Up Banner Design : Nico Duncan Photographic Assistant : Aimee Wardman Styling Assistant : Georgia Whiteman Makeup Assistants : Amber Morley and Megan Tallant
The Protagonists
Sandra Sandra wears Michael Kors check print Jump suit Available at Harvey Nichols
Annabelle Annabelle wears Zip Through Pini Dress £36.00 and Flower Pussybow Blouse £38.00 Available at Topshop
Jessica
Jessica wears Moschino Cheap and Chic Tiger Print Jacket £380.00 Moschino Cheap and Chic Tiger Print Trousers £255.00 Available at Flannels.
Samantha Samantha wears Moschino Cheap and Chic Animal Print Jacket ÂŁ295.00 Moschino Cheap and Chic Tiger Print Shorts ÂŁ255.00 Available at Flannels.
Kirsty
Kirsty wears Stella McCartney Petra blossom blouse ÂŁ460 Available at Harvey Nichols Orange leather-look mini skirt stylists own
Denim shirt £45.00 River Island MOTO Clean-Cut Flared Jeans £40.00 Topshop. Accessories - Stylists own
Karl Lagerfeld Malia black leather pinafore dress ÂŁ480.00 Karl Lagerfeld Rokr shirt with bow ÂŁ285 Both available at Harvey Nichols
Annabelle wears Paris Floral Print Pinny Dress £48.00 Topshop. Daisy Print Shirt Dress £55.00 Topshop.
Jessica wears Gucci Flora Knight Print Silk Cape Shirt ÂŁ620.00 Flannels Boots - Stylists own
CATWALKING.COM
Antonio Lopez was arguably the biggest influence in fashion during the 1960s, 70s and 80s. With the help of authors Roger and Mauricio Padilha, Voir features some of the artist’s most iconic work. Words by Mark Leigh.
Every now and again, an individual comes along and not only inspires a generation, but single-handedly revolutionises an industry, leaving a legacy for others to follow. Antonio Lopez was to illustration what David Bailey was to photography - an icon of the cultural revolution. And whilst Bailey captivated Vogue readers with his depiction of the reality of Manhattan in 1962, Antonio seduced them into another world with his drawings just a few years later. “He was the zeitgeist” says Roger Padilha, co-editor of the recently-published book “Antonio Lopez : Fashion, Art, Sex & Disco” published by Rizzoli. “At his peak, he was as famous as Marc Jacobs is now. He was the biggest person in the fashion industry.” With his creative partner Juan Ramos, Antonio Lopez was a force in the fashion world for three decades: the 60s saw his images inducting youth culture into magazine pages, the seventies brought about collaborations with Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent, and the eighties saw him influencing designers all over the world with athletic wear and break-dancing style. Antonio’s drawings captured the energy of an era and often influenced the people for whom he created the work. His illustrations, which appeared regularly in The New York Times, Italian Vogue, Elle and French Vogue were so innovative that they forced the designers in question to think differently about their designs, even using elements of his drawings in their collections the following season.
Not only did the artist have celebrity elite in his inner circle with the likes of Paloma Picasso, Andy Warhol, Yves SaintLaurent and Karl Lagerfeld, he was jointly responsible for discovering Jerry Hall, Grace Jones and Jessica Lange. His effect on Lagerfeld was enormous, as recalled by friend and makeup artist Corey Tippin “Antonio went far beyond reality in his drawing, and it seemed to give Karl a path; it led Karl to the next design.” With the assistance of Mauricio Padilha, Voir have put together a selection of Antonio’s illustrations, most of which appear in Padilha’s latest book. Illustrations which we feel capture the essence of fashion romance in the late 60s and 70s, and which serve as a benchmark for fashion illustrators the world over. To know his work is one thing, but to truly appreciate his significance in the world of fashion, international designer Anna Sui sums it up :
“I’m from the generation that came to New York to meet their idols. In my case it was Andy Warhol and Antonio Lopez.” Follow the link below to purchase Antonio Lopez: Fashion, Art, Sex, and Disco. http://www.amazon.com/Antonio-Lopez-Fashion-ArtDisco/dp/0847837920/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420565 765&sr=8-1&keywords=antonio+lopez+fashion
COMING SOON
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If you think party season is over, think again! The Saint Laurent glitter-ball is spinning into town and mesmerising every post Studio 54 fashionista in its disco trajectory. Words by Louise Fisher. Images Catwalking.com [except cover photo]
Paris Fashion week’s most sought-after ticket for Spring Summer 2015 was none other than Saint Laurent’s seventies-inspired show, a hedonistic mix of gold lamé, black leather, sequins, stripes and scarves all delivered with a fierce sexed-up attitude. Of course, Hedi Slimane didn’t get his reputation as leader of the fashion cognoscente for nothing, the revived brand is stylishly adopted by everyone from London’s cool kids to the Hollywood It-crowd when dressing to make a statement. True to form, the SS15 collection is achingly cool, inspiringly sexy yet appealingly wearable. A plethora of famous faces were seen on and off the runway with Cara Delevingne walking for the brand and Daisy Lowe, Miles Kane and Daft Punk’s Thomas Bangalter (to name but a few) kicking back on the front row. The Paris show began with the breathy French vocals of Aleide’s “1,2,3” whilst disco lights bounced off silver frames suspended above the runway, creating a trippy holographic effect. As the girls appeared in sky-high platforms, plunging necklines and micro minis, the vibe was sexy and feminine whilst maintaining a grungy “up all night” attitude. Black leather jackets and sheer black stockings contrasted against kitsch prints and flirty metallics. Intricatelystitched sequin dresses sparkled like jewels in the night whilst Breton stripes and floral prints created new interest. Accessories were a major talking point of the collection with wide-brimmed hats in bright purple, red and forest green and skinny patterned scarves tied at the neck in true seventies style. Footwear took the form of high platform sandals, and stamped their authority with miniskirts and halter-neck dresses. Feminine turbans were also given a rock ‘n’ roll twist, pairing them with black dresses and leather as opposed to the more girly interpretations seen elsewhere. The YSL statement suit has been given a new lease of life and is once again a go-to look for both men and women, especially on the red carpet. These immaculate trouser suits, coined ‘le smoking,’ and originally seen on the likes of Bianca Jagger and Brigitte Bardot, are now being donned by celebrities such as Angelina Jolie, Emma Watson and Lou Doillon.
The signature Saint Laurent tuxedo was of course present at the Paris show but suitably adopted more of a back seat than in previous seasons. Instead we saw slinky gold lame, thick waist belts, trench coats and statement lapel jackets stealing the limelight. Models, painted seductively with smoky kohl-rimmed cat eyes and freeflowing tousled hair, effortlessly usurped the ‘party girl’ throne with a more appropriate ‘after-party’ fashion crown. The inimitable Cara Delevingne, took to the runway a few minutes into the show. Donning multi-tonal tan suede jacket, graphic floral shirt, high waist leather skirt, skinny black scarf and sheer black stockings, eloquently thrown together, she would not have looked out of place backstage at a Rolling Stones gig circa 1975. The real show-stopper however, was Delevingne’s second outfit which oozed Ringmaster cool. Consisting of a wide-brimmed hat, black sequinned chemise, leopard-print mini skirt and the pièce de résistance: a red circus-style jacket, it demonstrated once again the brand’s astute awareness of the power of a great jacket! Quirky and eye-catching yet wearable enough for mass appeal, expect to see variations on the high street come the summer. Silhouettes were fitted and streamlined - pulled in at the waist at every opportunity. Risqué sheer blouses tucked into high-waist skirts and glitzy spaghetti-strap dresses echoed Studio 54 glamour, whilst black cape dresses, belted with thick black leather, added drama and sophistication. Where the sharp tailoring and masculine jackets gave a contemporary feel, the appearance of a red feathered bolero and cream fur (draped over one shoulder only) was more reminiscent of early left-bank YSL chic of the late ‘60s. Combine these contrasting styles, add a seventies disco kick and you should have a good idea of where Saint Laurent are at for SS15. A reinforcement that spring style does not have to involve pastel colours or preppy styling, and of course pays homage to the classic cool of summer black.
In spite of controversy surrounding the French fashion house since Hedi Slimane’s appointment, most notably changing the brand’s name from Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent Paris, sales have gone through the roof. Undoubtedly a nod in the right direction for its head designer. It should come as no surprise therefore, that in conjunction with the retro theme on the runway, the house have unveiled the 1970s icon Joni Mitchell as the latest face to endorse the brand. The new ad campaign, photographed by Slimane himself, was announced on Twitter with a picture of the talented singer/songwriter equipped with guitar, and sporting a dramatic wide brimmed fedora. If this wasn’t proof that the seventies are firmly back this season, then I don’t know what is. Saint Laurent delightfully took us on a trip down memory lane with discothèque proportions, and the ride was a pulsating one. With a focus on mixing seventies sex appeal and grunge-esque attitude to create an edgier approach to the new season, they have once again, delivered in style. Remaining faithful to their new-found rock ‘n’ roll orientation, the brand will be extremely difficult to match for imbuing the modern woman with rock-star je ne sais quoi, and the ‘coolest girl at the fashion party’ has unmistakably..... just got cooler. LF
VIVA LA Au revoir to an enfant terrible. By Saffron Alexander
Aptly nicknamed the enfant terrible, a French expression that implies an unorthodox, rebellious and striking genius in his work, Jean Paul Gaultier has remained an important fixture in the world of fashion since his 1976 debut. Despite never formally training in design, Gaultier has reached summits in his career most could only dream of. The king of provocation on the catwalk, Gaultier has never been afraid to transcend the ordinary and expected to bring his lavish creations to life. His innate sense of humour, and shock factor is what caused him to stand out amongst the famously serious high fashion nobility. Unafraid to consistently bring something new to the table by warping and twisting his designs to erase boundaries and showcase his ever-growing interest in society, culture, and identity, Gaultier quickly developed a cult-like following; helped largely by a penchant for androgyny on the catwalk. In truth, listing the things Gaultier hasn’t done on the catwalk may prove an easier feat than listing his groundbreaking accomplishments. Consistently using his designs to deconstruct gender and sexuality norms by employing skirts for men,
dressing women in tailored suits, using underwear as outerwear, and regularly featuring transgender model Andrej Pejic in his shows. The habitual casting of obscure models on the runway, together with his obsession for tearing down beauty stereotypes and norms is what sets him apart from his peers. Gaultier’s influence spread further than the catwalk through his career. His forwardthinking outfits saw him designing costumes for many motion pictures. From dressing supermodel Milla Jovovich in white spandex and a sci-fi-esque harness in Fifth Element to designing costumes for Peter Greenaway’s “The Cook, The Thief, His Wife & Her Lover,” Gaultier made his mark on the film industry just as he did the fashion. His runway shows promise vitality, excitement and attention-grabbing provocativeness without distracting from the collection, attributes which other designers can only dream of. Whether it’s 1992’s topless Madonna, the puppets in lieu of models in 2004, or his now infamous Amy Winehouse tribute show of 2012, Gaultier proves time and time again that he knows how to catch the attention of fashion insiders and the general public alike.
Even his final farewell to ready-to-wear womenswear was a catalyst for conversation and fond remembrance on fashion’s most daring designer. Choosing a faux beauty pageant as his final theme, the show was a celebratory and emotional retrospective look on his career, helmed and attended by fashion’s brightest and finest. Categories such as Miss Mariniere, Miss Femme de Footballeur and Miss Vintage paid homage to sartorial hits over the years whilst Miss Rédactrice de Mode was a nod to the fashion editors of old who had given Gaultier their blessings over the years. In a way, the show served as a reminder to all; there is only one Jean Paul Gaultier and it will take a while for Paris’ RTW fashion week to fill the gap he has left. Still, we needn’t be sad, 2015 will see the emergence of his haute couture and fragrance projects. The extravagant, provocative, boundary-pushing Frenchman will be back soon enough, testing the perimeters of society in a way only Gaultier knows how.
Viva la Gaultier. SA
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Chloe wears VICTORIA, Victoria Beckham Ombre silk organza and crepe dress £1,100.00 Moschino Lettering leather belt £170 Moschino Micro metallic leather cross-body bag £435.00 All available at Harvey Nichols
Alana wears SHRIMPS Jaguar faux-fur coat £475.00 SHRIMPS Jaguar faux-fur skirt £250.00 CALVIN KLEIN Icon plunge bra £35.00 All available at Selfridges. Shoes - Stylists own.
Stella McCartney Gem-embellished cotton-blend dress ÂŁ2,070.00 Selfridges Accessories - Stylists own
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Dolce & Gabbana Jeans £1400.00 Harvey Nichols Versus Printed jersey cropped top £225.00 Selfridges Moschino Micro black leather cross-body bag £440.00 Harvey Nichols Shoes - Stylists own
Emilio Pucci Peasant silk blouse ÂŁ740.00 Geometric panel stretch wool skirt ÂŁ580.00 Available at Selfridges White patent leather boots - Vintage
Valentino Rainbow cotton and silk-blend dress ÂŁ1,720 Moschino Lettering leather belt ÂŁ170 Available at Harvey Nichols. Shoes and accessories - Stylists own.
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Photography & Post Production - Anna Eve Hair & Make Up - Francesca Vigliarolo Model - Hong Nguyen
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Floyd wick Hard
Alexis Monsanto SS15
Dolcessa Swimwear SS15
Quynh Paris SS15
Quynh Paris SS15
Walter Mendez SS15
Kaye Morales SS15
Signature Young SS15
Alexis Monsanto SS15
Dolcessa Swimwear SS15
JM Couture SS15
Quynh Paris SS15
Nicole Lee SS15
Nicole Lee SS15
Quynh Paris SS15
Nicole Lee SS15
Kaye Morales SS15
Signature Young SS15
Kaye Morales SS15
I Am Zoe SS15
Kinsman Swimwear SS15
Quynh Paris SS15
Fashion Forward XY is not a conformation, but a seamless flow between opposites. MAX.TAN’s Fall/Winter 201516 collection presents a concept not just simply of women in menswear, or men in frocks; it is a collection that reconstructs her boyfriend’s wardrobe, a state of gender neutralizing.
IN A Tome of a legacy of Emilio Pucci By Marianne Tupelo
When it comes to books on fashion, I for one gravitate to the idea of indulging in a hard-backed coffee table number, in a quiet room bereft of distractions and reminders of the reality of the outside world. I love to be taken on a journey into a world where inspiration is the key recipe and visual delight is the dessert. Step forward Taschen, with a giant of an offering in the way of a larger-than-life tome on designer Emilio Pucci and his magnificent clothes and print design. Each limited-edition copy is bound with an original Pucci fabric print, offering a choice of dozens of different covers. Pucci - The Prince of Prints features hundreds of photographs, drawings, and candid shots from the designer’s archives, and captures the breathtaking elegance and drama of a unique brand. The author Vanessa Friedman intelligently positions Emilio’s achievements in the context of fashion history, and provides insight into the designer’s remarkable eponymous dynasty. Visit www.taschen.com for details. MT.
Photographs Š Catwalking.com
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If a look can conjure up heady nights of glamour at a Studio 54 party - rubbing shoulders with the movers and the shakers: the likes of Jerry Hall, Diane von Furstenberg and Bianca Jagger, then you have jetted in to the right hemisphere. Who else could possibly provide the modern-day panache to the 1970s Glamourzon - smokey-eyed and sultry-phisticated, none other than celebrity makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. Tilbury, whose self-professed “I’m known for making women look beautiful – that’s my USP,” holds a résume boasting high profile runway shows and campaigns for fashion giants Tom Ford, Michael Kors and Donna Karen to name a few. Oh…as well as being the number one choice for photographers Mario Testino and Mert & Marcus. And if that isn’t enough to lure you to a Charlotte Tilbury makeup counter for a ‘Tilbury Transformation’ to international stardom, try picking up an issue of Vogue, Vanity Fair, LOVE or V Magazine without noticing her artistic creations seductively drawing you into the editorial spreads. Tom Ford, so entranced by the Charlotte Tilbury glamour spell, intimated ‘expensive and cool’ for his Spring Summer 2015 runway beauty look. Charlotte responded with smokey eyes and nude lips, a resounding nod to long-time Ford muse Carine Roitfeld and Chrissie Hynde of ‘Pretenders’ chic.
Glamour Muse - just one of ten looks echoing the Charlotte Tilbury make-up range mantra: ‘Easy to Choose, Easy to Use, Irresistible’, has rolled out at sophisticated CT make-up counters in selective retailers Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Fenwick, and Brown Thomas. Hearkening back to those hedonistic nights of Studio 54 glam and star-studded enchantment, it places the eyes central to its allure whilst calling us to succumb to our fanciful diva alter-ego. Tilbury, flirtatious with the retro influence of this collection, treats us to killer cheek bones, defined jawline, lusciously-curled lashes and cerise pink pouts, all sealed with her signature smokey purple gaze. The products too cement the romance of the glamour days of yesterday: lipstick in Velvet Underground - Warhol, Reed and Nico et al, eye pencil in Barbarella Brown - cult Roger Vadim and Jane Fonda cool, and lip liner in Pillow Talk - a subtle innuendo to our pulling-power prowess. So if Wonderglow fails to unleash your inner diva on the dance floor, Filmstar Bronze & Glow is sure to provide the silver-screen face-candy to draw all attention to your piercing Glamourzon eyes, if only for one night. MT
2 & 3, MAC Pro 3D Glitter
BEAUTY
5. Illamasqua Lip Gloss
4, NARS Eye Pencil
Laura Mercier Gel Eyeliner
As Seen at House of Holland and Ashish
6. NARS Pressed Powder 7. Charlotte Tilbury Light Wonder 8. YSL Shocking Volume Mascara
RockChick
AS SEEN AT TOM FORD & ANTIPODIUM
9. Marcelle Accent Brow Pencils 10. Maybelline Brow Drama 11. Tom Ford Pink Dusk 12. Tom Ford Eye Colour Quad 13. Charlotte Tilbury Brow Lift 14. Shavata Pencil Sharpener 15. Bobbi Brown Blush
Ph : Š Nataly Danina
PaintedLadies Powerful graphic compositions through the eyes of fashion and beauty photographer Nataly Danina http://danina.ru
Take your beauty to another level and flirt with a palette of 1970s-inspired hues. Photography by Mohsin Khawar, Hair & Makeup by Fatima Nasir, Models - Rubab Ali & Kiran Haq. Post production by Zahar Bakutin.
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Styling this season is as powerful as colouring, and partings, like the past two seasons, are extreme. Bold centre partings for the brave (and symmetrically-faced) amongst us, and extra-low side partings for those who are not. Keep it current by finger-parting to give that messy bed hair appearance. The ‘wet look’ is still very much with us. Although taken to extreme on the catwalks, for day to day street wear go for a head-hugging sleek finish to the nape, with a fuller dishevelled wave for contrast down the length of the hair. Use products and not barrettes or pins to hold this shape in place.
Braiding and fishtails also remain strong and can be placed anywhere the fancy takes you. Especially current is the braided ponytail but ensure the tops of the ears are covered loosely and the braid starts at the nape. Lazy-look styling is what this season is all about, nothing too carefully placed. So messy top knots are hot right now - just like you have pulled up your hair to jump in the bath! Sleek fronts - take a hint from Victorian shapes with loose waves, curls or dishevelled texture to bring this look up to date. Either centre or low side-part, the front two sections are dressed sleek
and caught with a band at the nape whilst the rest of the hair falls over the top. Power ponytails high on the head are perfect for those who prefer a no-fuss sleek finish. Long, thick, textured or doubled up, you choose but keep the front sleek and add a statement parting. Crimping is back. Work on sections of the hair to create texture, or the entire head to make a full-on impression. Crimp the lengths on the ‘wet-look’ or ‘sleek front’, or combine with ponytails, topknots, braiding and plaits. For dual texture, only
crimp the top sections and then catch the whole head in a loose low pony. Boyfriend hair - we have had boyfriend jeans, boyfriend coats and now it’s the turn of the fringe. This season it has to be a statement fringe - no subtlety here, just full-on, long and heavy. (Think Chrissy Hynde of The Pretenders.) Bardot-esque - for those who prefer softer curls and waves like the 60s icon. Crowns are fuller and fronts are sleek. Keep the parting slightly messy to ensure this look is up-to-date. Karen X
LOVES
When Tyra Banks calls and asks you to appear on America’s Next Top Model, you know the fashion world is watching with eager eyes. Step forward Chantelle Brown-Young, a 20 year old native Canadian who has the rare skin disorder vitiligo. If growing up was tough for Chantelle, her recent success is akin to the ‘Duckling and the Swan’ story. Now the face of Barcelona-based fashion brand Desigual, Chantelle ‘fits perfectly’ with their philosophy of ‘enjoying life and being happy’. “Desigual stands for being unusual and unique and atypical, so they figured I’d be the perfect person for that” enthused the model, “they had a new line that had a lot of dots, and some of my skin patterns are dots. In the campaign video, there’s a part where the dot on a scarf lines up perfectly with a dot I have on my waist, and I thought that was the coolest thing ever.”
LOVES
STILL SUPER @ 86
Do not adjust your screens, this is the world’s oldest supermodel in her late 80s. Daphne Selfe is currently on the books of London’s prestigious Models 1 agency, and constantly in-demand for international campaigns, runway shows and editorial spreads. At a cool 86, Daphne has mesmerising looks, all natural with ‘no work’. “I’ve always believed that my face tells the story of my life - why would I want to change it?“ declares Daphne, “I reached the same conclusion about my hair when I reached 60” She is an incredible role model for a generation who simply do not want to fade quietly into old age and obscurity. Crediting both her mum and dad for her longevity, she also attributes gardening, walking and yoga for her well-being. At a mere 5’7” tall, she is the same height as Kate Moss, and although she began modelling in 1950, her big break only came 10 years ago when ‘Red or Dead’ approached her to do a catwalk show. She became the face of ‘granny chic’. On top of this fashion fame, Daphne has worked for charities, including Oxfam’s Big Bra Hunt campaign. Ultimately, this proves that in an age of inequality, Daphne sure is a great ambassador for inclusion.
In the years between 1963 and 1975, fragrance companies experienced dramatic growth in sales, encouraged by social changes, such as the ‘youth culture’ and ‘women’s liberation’. Voir uncovers four fragrances which hit the mark back in the day. Words by Bonnie Bartlett.
During the 1960s and early 1970s, popular media images reflected the changes happening in women’s lives. With this taking place, experimentation followed in the form of platform shoes, glam rock and hot pants, with anarchy demonstrated through punk and, alongside it, feminism. In the years between 1963 and 1975 fragrance companies experienced dramatic growth in sales, encouraged by social changes such as the ‘youth culture’ and ‘women’s liberation’. Helena Rubinstein, Elizabeth Arden, Coco Chanel and Charles Revson, some of the industry’s biggest names, all died during this time, resulting in intensified competition and a wave of corporate mergers which led to a handful of large corporations dominating the perfume business. A much wider range of women than ever before were buying perfume, all of which vastly helped the development and expansion of the perfume industry. In the world of fragrance, the first marketed ‘lifestyle’ scent was launched. ‘Charlie’, named after Charles Revson of Revlon, portrayed a liberated, strong and modern woman striding confidently down the road, dressed in a pantsuit by Ralph Lauren, and was targeted at the working woman who linked fragrance with fun and desire. The fragrance reflected the social trends of the early to mid 1970s, embracing the youth culture and the women’s movement. This created an important new catch-phrase ‘the lifestyle fragrance’. Combining an elaborate product introduction with huge in-store promotions and extensive, widespread advertising through magazines and television ads, the marketing of ‘Charlie’ led it to become the world’s top selling perfume within three years. Since the 1970’s, there have been many legendary fragrances which are instantly recognisable owing to their popularity and originality. One such fragrance of the 70’s was Chanel no.19. The number refers to the birth date of Coco Chanel - August 19th.
The perfume was launched in 1971 when Mademoiselle Chanel was 87 years old, just a year before she died. It was created by Henri Robert, a perfumier who created many other fragrances for the Chanel house, and fuses an aggressive green note of galbanum and woody dusky note of iris as a symphonic connection between delicate florals and a leathery-woody base. Another loved scent, dubbed the perfume with a controversial name, as some thought it was advocating drug usage, was ‘Opium’ by YSL (1977). Yves Saint Laurent avoided frilly crystal designs for the bottle and wanted the fragrance to speak for itself. What was modest in packaging, was made up for in the Ad campaign which featured Jerry Hall lying on a lamè sofa beneath a Ming buddah, and wearing an exquisitely-designed satin outfit designed by Yves himself. The campaign was shot by none other than Helmut Newton. Almost forty years on, Opium is still one of the most popular and distinctive perfumes to this day. According to ‘Shop Til You Drop’ magazine (April 2008) the perfume was labelled as ‘The smell of Success’, and has the highest concentration of perfume of any French fragrance ever made. By the 1970s, perfume companies had succeeded in accomplishing two missions they had begun in the 1950s : women now bought perfume for themselves, and the sales continued throughout the year. The companies encouraged this trend with year-round advertising and new fragrances were specifically designed for daywear, such as ‘Charlie’ and Estée Lauder’s ‘Aliage’. Women were no longer content with just one brand, and were now buying a ‘wardrobe of fragrances’ for different occasions, events and times of the year. These trends led to much higher overall sales and consumption of products. With women working in larger numbers, they could afford more perfumes and had more opportunities to wear them in their new emancipated lives. Initials BB
Illustration Š Bo Lundberg
living
The Graphic Art of Bo Lundberg words by Felix Laurens
If ever there was a contemporary artist whose work could mistakenly be positioned in the glamorous vaults of the past, Bo Lundberg is that artist. With a palette for exquisite simplicity, elegant colour, striking graphic elements and a hint of abstraction, his oeuvre oozes retro cool. Ever since Saul Bass stunned cinema-goers with his graphically-simpllistic film title sequence of Otto Preminger’s ‘The Man with the Golden Arm’ in 1955, graphic artists [Andy Warhol included] have been pushing the boundaries of visual communication in its most simple form - to great effect.
Bo Lundberg’s art, very much in this ilk, is no different - a clever interpretation of the glamorous world in which he [or James Bond for that matter] lives. Drawing inspiration from objects he comes across in every-day life, the result is a harmonious testimony to how he has honed his skill without losing sight of his belief that for an image to work, it should reflect something to which the viewer is able to relate. With a roster of international clients to his name such as Wallpaper magazine, Vogue, Elle, Coca Cola, MTV, Escada and Scandinavian Airlines, perhaps his own film title sequence should read something like ‘Catch Me if you Can’.
To see more of Bo’s work, visit http://www.bolundberg.com
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Contemporary musicians and DJ’s are forever taking old riffs and chords and re-sampling them into new creations right? So what does the notion of taking vintage rock ‘n’ roll, punk and indie flyers and re-mixing them into contemporary graphic-led posters sound like? Well that is precisely what Mike Joyce [owner of Stereotype Design in New York City] has done. Following his love of punk rock and Swiss Modernism, Mike has stylishly re-invigorated two hundred original ‘gig’ flyers using the typeface Berthold Akzidenz-Grotesk medium, all set in lowercase, to produce International Typographic Style posters. The project entitled Swissted, sees the posters reproduced in the highest quality, ready to be pinned up or framed. If there is anything to be said about this graphic revolution, we feel Antoine de Saint-Exupéry explains it best : “Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing left to add, but when there is nothing left to remove.” For more info visit www.swissted.com DT.
A VOIR PROMOTION
Basque-ing in
Authenticity Pintura Basque Kitchen & Bar opened its doors to an ambitious diner in Leeds last month. Voir was there to experience and photograph the attraction.
By Felix Laurens For more information visit www.pinturakitchen.co.uk
Whether originating from the vaults of the past or designed in a retro style, you cannot deny that there is a wealth of inspiration to be had from the 1970s. Enjoy.
Š Jack Tempchin
By
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Fashion historians will tell you that Antonioni influenced the swinging 60s through his iconic film ‘Blow Up’ and not the other way round. Centred on a glamorous fashion photographer who inadvertently captures a murder scene whilst photographing two lovers in Maryon Park in 1966, it is only when the image is blown up that the Bailey-esque character discovers the body. The abstract avant-garde nature of this film, it could be argued, had significant impact on the work of legendary French fashion photographer Guy Bourdin. Bourdin, whose work is immortalised in the book ‘A Message for You’ by Nicolle Meyer, was widely acknowledged as a visionary who created images that contained fascinating stories, compositions and narrative. He successfully managed to tell visual stories which placed image at the forefront over product, whilst remaining true to his art. To get hold of a copy of ‘A Message for You’ visit www.artbook.com
WAITING for GODARD
LOVES
LOVES
From a tiny writing desk to a giant studio, these creative workspaces have one thing in common, they each inspired their unique inhabitants to create greatness. 1. Nigella Lawson - Food writer | 2. George Bernard Shaw - Playwright 3. Georgia O’Keefe - Painter | 4. Jackson Pollock - Painter | 5. Jane Austen - Novelist 6. Pablo Picasso - Artist | 7. William Buckley - Author and commentator.
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8. Yves Saint Laurent - Fashion designer | 9. Ray Eames - Designer & artist 10. Paul CĂŠzanne - Painter | 11. Willem de Kooning - Artist 12. John Lennon and Yoko Ono - Songwriters and artists 13. Susan Sontag - Writer & filmmaker | 14. Mark Rothko - Painter.
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Voir truly admires the travel photography of Bukkie who appears to only be armed with her trusted faithful Canon SLR 5D MK II. Here are her own words and some of her inspirational photographs.
“I love every notion of storytelling. I believe it is the only way we can preserve history for posterity. I love people, the stories they tell, our rituals, culture, spaces we occupy and our absence from these spaces. Life is a series of stories, overlapping as they unfold. We are all stories being told daily. Truly an interesting study, one that will never be fully revealed in one life time. I will however continue to look, to observe, to learn and to record.That is my quest.� To visit BOND Move visit https://bondmove.wordpress.com/
LOVES
COOL SIGNAGE
Books with Heart
LIGHT IN THE CITY:
A PORTRAIT OF LEEDS PART 2 THROUGH THE EYES OF VOIR
PVC trench coat ÂŁ310 available at Armani Exchange
Behind every great brand, product, service or performance lies a hidden face or two helping to make it happen. Voir pushes the boundaries to get the low down on what makes them tick.
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Melissa wears Lace trim band of gypsies flares £45 with matching blouse £40.00 Both available at Top Shop Statement Armani Exchange Necklace £62.00
Cotton Trench Coat available at Topshop ÂŁ79.00 Lather black thigh-length boots Stylists own
Lace trim band of gypsies flares £45 with matching blouse £40.00 Both available at Top Shop Statement Armani Exchange Necklace £62.00
Set design, props and accessories by Nicola [Nico] Duncan
PVC trench coat ÂŁ310 available at Armani Exchange
Voir - The Living Fashion Magazine is an online publication issued on a quarterly basis. Issue 11 has been brought to you by the following :
Jyoti Matoo Editor-In-Chief / Stylist jm@voirfashion.co.uk Luke Walwyn Art Director/Photographer art@voirfashion.co.uk Felix Laurens Brand Liaison/Writer creative@voirfashion.co.uk Kymberley Jefferson : Head Hair Stylist Stacey Borg : Head MUA Shannon Varden : MUA Alex Watkin : Hair Stylist
Anna K Catwalking.com Bo Lundberg Melissa J Woodside Thea W. Special Thank You to East Street Arts
CREATIVE ASSISTANTS Nico Duncan : Set Design Georgia Whiteman : Asst Stylist Chloe Vickers : Asst Stylist Aimee Wardman : Asst Photographer Jamie McLoughlin : Asst Hair Stylist Samantha Tait : Asst MUA Amber Morley : Asst MUA Megan Tallant : Asst MUA
For submissions and editorial content : Email creative@voirfashion.co.uk For collaborations : Email jm@voirfashion.co.uk
WRITERS, ARTISTS & CREATIVES Kat Evans Mark Leigh Saffron Alexander Bonnie Bartlett Marianne Tupelo Louise Fisher Felix Laurens Floyd Hardwick Karl Offerman Karen Dodds Sarah Holden Hannah Oulton Mohsin Khawar Anna Eve Nataly Danina Drew Thompson Bukkie Dos Santos Hk Heather Brown
www.voirfashion.co.uk
Ph : Š Catwalking.com