Autumn 2016
The 80s Renaissance
Autumn Season 2016
FA S H I O N
17
Get into the Groove
Madonna.
Photographs © Studio Voir
Autumn Season 2016
FA S H I O N
Rebel with a Cause Mikkel Ullah
Editor’s Letter The 80’s are back! Want evidence? See Isabel Marant and Saint Laurent’s oneshoulder party dresses. Brace yourself it’s time to raise your shoulder game. Think exaggerated sleeves, pearls, bubble hem skirts and fish net tights (as seen at Chanel and Saint Laurent). Madonna will be pleased! If that all sounds a bit over the top for you, there were more casual day-to-day takes on ‘80s fashion across the runways. Not sure where to start? The Voir Runway edit, stylishly flanked by Hannah Oulton’s insightful Hip&Runway, is jam-packed with inspiration, and sure to have you looking on fleek this season. Designers focused predominantly on eveningwear this Autumn/ Winter: yes, stilettos are back in town along with sequins, ruffles, satin, leather, lace and latex. Cocktail dressing was taken to a whole new level as sequins glittered and twinkled across the catwalks, but nobody put them together quite like Preen! The knockout collection had us literally preening for more, and our trend reporter Rachel Langan delving deeply behind the scenes at their AW‘16 show to discover why we should all be investing in a sequined number come the cocktail hour. Meanwhile, over in Paris there is a new wave that is Vetements. Demna Gvasalia is the In-Designer and the clothes are near on avant-garde. Our fashion writer Kat Evans has ventured behind the scenes at one of this season’s most talked-about shows, to get an insight into what we can expect from this highly-sought-after brand!
Speaking of new wave, we have decided to shake things up at Voir with a 3 cover special, and we are also introducing a new addition to the magazine - #IamVoir! To kick-start this regular feature we collaborated with an up and coming artist Mikkel Ullah, to design Voir’s first collection/campaign. To front this of course, we called upon internationally-known DJ, and now actor Tom Zanetti. Keep your eyes peeled for Voir’s very own Fashion Squad. We’ve seen a few musicians/rappers make their way into fashion recently, but one man in particular who stood out to us is A$AP Rocky. Voir had to investigate this incredibly cool character who has been ever so casually fronting campaigns for the likes of DKNY and Guess, and now, is the first rapper ever to grace a Dior campaign! We discover the ace he has up his extremely stylish sleve. If that’s not enough, we have put together a very powerful fashion editorial “I’m over it now” featuring model/singer Chloe Jasmine. Of course, we had to put women back in power. I think I’ve given away more than enough, now it’s time for you to be well and truly Voired. Jyoti Matoo Editor-In-Chief jm@Voirfashion.co.uk Twitter @Voir_Fashion
VOIR LOVES
by Hannah Oulton
AUTUMN 2016
What do Madonna, Liverpool and Dynasty all have in common? They are all fabulous I hear you shout? Yes I respond…oh and the fact they are definitive patrons of the ‘80s and all it represents. The Queen of Pop, a city alive with culture and an unforgettable TV show were not only a few key players in social movements but also in a way that we could never forget – power fashion. Think lashings of pearls, pussy bows, shell suits (Liverpool was famous as could be), perms and working girl power suits. They’re back with a vengeance and whether you’re a lover or a hater, this is just one Marmite we’re willing to stomach. Welcome back you old friend, we’ve been waiting. Autumn - Winter ’16 is where our flashback takes place and what a plethora of oldies we have on offer. If there was ever a time to go trawling through your mum’s backcatalogue of goodies, it’s now. Go forth and rummage. It’s time to go Madonna on this, shhhhh… Let’s start at the beginning, when the ‘80s became a time of the female power figure. It was an era for movement – political and social – and the fashions followed suit. We had the first ‘super’ models – Cindy Crawford, Elle ‘The Body’ McPherson (also my nickname – the chances?), Iman and the one and only Janice Dickinson. They were the faces of the 1980s fashion industry. And the faces of the ‘80s style? That would be Madonna, Joan Collins
(aka Alexis Colby), Brooke Shields, Debbie Harry and of course, the most iconic of them all; Princess Diana. They epitomised the looks of the decade and the trends to follow – from subtle to down-right flamboyant. This season, the collections have pulled our ‘80s best-bits and whipped them up into a frenzy of luxe textures, iconic details, mesmerising
palettes and silhouettes to die for. The power players include Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Moschino and Isabel Marant (to name a few), making our new season staples a blast from the past. Take the power shoulder. The wearable metaphor of ‘80s women. Whether it’s shoulder pads or overtly dramatic ruching, this is a quick-fix for that ‘80s injection. Evening style is a biggie for AW’16
and Saint Laurent have taken glamour to the next level for an after dark sensation: mini dresses with ha-uge shoulders, sheer tights and spike stilettos. Accessorize with biker leathers as seen on the Moschino runway, heavy jewels and equally heavy lids and you’ll be right on point. The party scene was a 1980s staple and I’m totally with Hedi Slimane in honouring that one.
Next, go texture crazy you material girl. Choose exquisite velvet – coats, trousers, boots: velvet errrrthang, just like Lanvin, Stella McCartney and Vetements. Key pieces give your look another dimension, perfect for modern-retro bridging. Ruching is a must for any ‘80s wannabe. Preen were bang on the money with sweet-shop pink full length dresses and coral-red bubble hem finishings. Throw in a pair of fishnet stockings and we’re livin’ on a prayer. Nothing screams ‘80s like some extravagant detailing. Pussy bows and ruffles are soooooo hot right now, I’m surprised Adam and the Ants aren’t strutting down the catwalks. Whether it’s big and bold like Gucci and J.W Anderson, or sexily subtle like Topshop Unique, these details are the glacier cherry on that proverbial ‘80s trifle. Go for all-in-one colour with this one, too much contrast makes it too fancy-dress and less ‘this is how I dress, alright?’ And how, I hear you ask, do we fit this trend into our everyday lives? Never fear my fashion bunnies, the oversized coat is here. The bigger the better, just think of all that winter podge we’ll be hiding under the masses of super-gorgeous textures. Whether its Ryan Lo’s quilted finish you’re a-kin to (don’t blame ya babe, bed in a coat…hello) or want to take a walk on the wild side with Isabel Marant; channel that SJP style and wait for HBO to come-a-knockin’. Incorporate those ridiculously iconic skirt suits into your work-wear for true ‘working
girl’ style. Think miniskirts with mini jackets just like Alexander Wang’s girl. Whether textured or monochrome, this is a timeless classic that never gets boring for day-tonight transition.
Last but not least, no ‘80s look is complete without those vital accessories. Pearls, pearls, pearls I just can’t say no… à la Madonna.
Layer ‘em up or keep them minimal, the nod to our pop queen was seen all over the catwalks, notably from Chanel: the house of pearls. Inject some rock ‘n’ roll with a biker hat like Moschino or heavy gold chains like Balenciaga – it’s a must in this trend. That super-defined waist is the game-changer in ‘80s style; the ultimate silhouette. Think big for ultra-clinching waist power like Saint Laurent, and even add that loop-hole detail like Isabel Marant for a New Romance edge. Eighties fashion is so deeply embroiled in women’s history, it’s hard not to build it back into our trends. OK, so we may not yet be ready for the shell-suit phase to make an appearance but it has to be said I’m all about this sexy, ‘80s girl who can boss like a man and walk like a woman. So let’s stick on Tom Cruise’s Cocktail, scour those treasures pulled from the depths of the wardrobe and see if we can’t make ourselves into an ‘80s power woman. I was there for the last three months of the ‘80s so that counts for something, right? H.O
AUTUMN 2016
VOIR LOVES
Starring Chloe Jasmine Whichello and Noah Sparnon Concept & Styling: Jyoti Matoo Photography & Art Direction: Luke Walwyn Menswear Stylist: Carl Denby Beauty & Makeup: Stacey Borg Hair: Mitchell Hislop Styling & Creative Assistants: Laura White/Jen George/Rachel Langan Cinematography: Serena Harker Shot on location at The Met Hotel - Leeds.
The
Breakup
Victoria Beckham Fine Rib Polo Neck, £820 Cami Lace Insert Dress, £1590 Harvey Nichols Saint Laurent, Tribute Sandal Moc Croc, £570 Harvey Nichols
Shock
Stella McCartney Silk Crepe Tiger Shirt, £765 Pleated Hem Trouser Flare £785, Harvey Nichols
Tie Back Lace Teddy RITA Two Part Skinny Sandals Topshop
Anger
Gucci, Lace Frill Shift Dress £955, Flannels
Jill Stuart, Front Frill Halter Backless Dress, ÂŁ455 Harvey Nichols
The
Over
Boutique Moschino Printed Lace Cami Top, £165 Boucle Jacket, £605 Flannels Isabel Marant Anders Patent Bow Mini Skirt £310, Harvey Nichols
Freedom
Versus Versace Marco Print Blazer Dress ÂŁ665, Flannels
Totally
OverIt
Red Skirt with fringing, £175 Red Shirt, £175 Maje Red Jacket, £450 Sandro Fendi Monster Classic Baguette £1280 Monster Fur Owl Bag Bug £625 all available at Harvey Nichols Shoes, Stylists Own
VOIR LOVES
VOIR LOVES
Photography: Catwalking.com
DIOR.PARIS.AW‘16-17
Words by Kat Evans
This French design collective Vetements has established itself so quickly on the fashion map it’s as though they’ve been there all along. Led by Demna Gvasalia, previously of Louis Vuitton and Maison Martin Margiela, very little is known about the team that makes up this new collective. What we do know, is that the brand is injecting new life into the fashion world. It’s about bringing something new to the table – a new realness to the catwalk. We’ve seen street style before yes, but this is authentic, real life, ready to wear, street wear. Every collection since their first offering for Autumn/Winter 2014 has grabbed the attention of anyone in-the-know. Gvasalia has been reported to have said that if a garment needs more than 20 minutes to design, it won’t ‘feel’ right, so the team give up on it and move on to the next one. Their ethos is fun, there are no set working hours… How many other design ateliers across the fashion world do you think that happens in? So what is it about Vetements that has earned ‘Fashion Week’ status in just two short years, when so many others have tried and failed for much longer? That’s just it. The brand is a breath of
fresh air that is effortlessly rocking the fashion world’s oh so fabulous boat, seemingly without even making a ripple. It’s the new play toy that the industry has been craving. As is apparent through their Autumn/Winter 2016 offering, the design team have complete free reign on what they place on the catwalk. Inspiration for the collection appears to have come from all aspects of life, it’s like delving in to a very grown up dressing up box. It has the chic, Parisian essence that is simplistic in its moody colour palette, and best of all, it doesn’t seem to care what is ‘fashion’. There’s a laid back attitude that ironically, is in your face all the same. It just oozes style with very little effort. The design collective shows its commitment to moving away from the standard seasonal collection as it’s almost like a ‘Russian Doll’ effect. The runway collection is filled up with lots of little ones, each as cool and effortless as the one before it, showing just how differently these designers think to anyone else in the industry. We go back to rebellious school days with oversized and dishevelled uniforms, we go to the workplace with smartened office wear, and we get a little bit...
of teenage angst back with heavy, grunge motifs and oversized hoodies emblazoned with slogans such as ‘Let the bridges I burn light the way’. Monk-like robes and dresses, leather straitjackets, velvet suits, we hit inspirations from anywhere and everywhere. It’s verging on avant-garde but nails the vibe for the street.
focus is different. Emphasis is placed on the shoulder and the exaggerated styling mean that the clothes create an almost hunched-like shape. The silhouettes created on the runway are realised through fresh eyes – no longer are menswear and womenswear defined as two separate collections. Vetements show as one, with men and women intertwined on the runway. They’ve done away with anything overtly feminine, and questioned the very standards of beauty and sexiness as defined by the fashion world.
Gvasalia said that when the team worked on this collection there was a very dark mood amongst the designers which is reflected through the heavy use of melancholic themes. Blacks and purples feature throughout the whole collection, with a gothic, almost cult-like feel to one The new blood that Vetements has brought to the runway has injected fresh of the Russian doll collections. life into fashion weeks all over the world. What is most noticeable about Regeneration, rejuvenation, reinvenVetements and this collection is tion – it’s what all designers want their their desire to shake up the rules. next collection to be. Yet Vetements is Thigh high boots are no longer just the brand that has made everyone sit for women, silhouettes don’t have up and take note. After just two short to be tailored and small. Oversized years in the limelight, the future of the has been Vetements ‘thing’ since its runway is changing and Vetements is first runway offering, but this time the our modern-day Pied Piper.
And the artwork of Mikkel Ullah
Concept & Styling: Jyoti Matoo Art Direction & Photography: Luke Walwyn Hair: Kymberley Jefferson Makeup: Megan Tallant Models: Tom, Siobhan, Anna, Will Cinematography: Serena Harker Styling Assistants: Carl Denby/Laura White/Jen George/Rachel Langan Wardrobe supply: The Vintage Wholesale Company
VOIR LOVES
Photography: Catwalking.com
PAUL SMITH.LONDON.AW‘16-17
VOIR LOVES
Research by Rachel Langan & Hannah Oulton
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VOIR LOVES
VOIR LOVES
Photographer: Luis Nuùez Stylist: Sherrie Johnston Make Up: Kristina Mercado Models: Kelcie Leonard of Clavon Models and Qiqige Clothing Sponsor: Clavon’s Wear Wardrobe Assistant: Rachel Grimm
Photography: Victoria Art Style: Victoria Nรณz Jewellery: Sergey Zhernov Make-up: Viktoria Turok Model: Anastasia Kilesso /L-Models/
Photography: Catwalking.com
ELIE SAAB.PARIS.AW‘16-17
Welcome to Autumn/Winter 2016-17
Illustration : Margarete Gockel
Preen
Miu Miu
Ralph Lauren
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta
Simone Rocha
Miu Miu
Ralph Lauren
Chanel
Burberry
Bottega Veneta
Chanel
Chanel
Preen Rochas
Valentino Valentino Preen
Nothing will make you feel more regal this AW16 than the sensation of soft velvet brushing against the skin in the colder months. Ensure you get the royal treatment by adorning velvet everything, and head to toe glamour is in the bag. If you’re feeling particularly elegant why not add a tiara…we won’t tell!
Rochas
Rochas
Valentino
Preen
The renowned punkish, vintage and androgynous elements of Preen’s first collection; which debuted in 2001 were ever present for AW16, and have now become synonymous with the designer label. By
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As the nights start to draw in, you have to pack up your summer wardrobe and relegate it to the dark confines of the attic, and if you’re anything like me you’ve probably resigned yourself to the fact that your Autumn/Winter wardrobe is destined to be more drab than those bright and frilly summer garms. Well, stop right there. Preen A/ W16 has heard those dissatisfied moans and resolved those archetypal “What do I wear?” queries when you’re entering into those colder months. The answer? Candyfloss pink sequins, bright blue brocade and rich, warm Victoriana velvets. These are the sartorial statements of the season, crafted by Thornton and Bregazzi; the genii pairing who founded the brand. The renowned punkish, vintage and androgynous elements of Preen’s first collection; which debuted in 2001 were ever present, and have now become synonymous with the designer label. The inspiration for the AW16 collection stems from “The first girl band to sing aggressive music:” The Runaways, and poet Edith Sitwell, with a rock star vibe very much in tow. But, this season, Preen has conquered the perfect juxtaposition that is an elegant rocker. Oversized tartan coats and black netting tops came face to face with powder pink, silk shirts with ruffles galore and diamanté chokers. Although the amalgamation of Victorian, midnight florals diffused across iridescent chiffon are within the same collection as azure blue brocade dresses, Preen have once again been able to merge such
Catwalking.com
Preen has conquered the perfect juxtaposition that is an elegant rocker
a wide range of textures and colours, all into one seamless runway show. But, how do they do it? Well, the answer is simple: Subtle incorporation. Each individual look on the runway has a fusion of at least three different qualities: be it texture, colour, or detailing. By doing so, Thornton and Bregazzi are able to unify each look as a whole, creating a completely unique, yet timeless garment that can be easily identified as part of a well renowned and astounding brand. Yes, we know what you’re thinking: “There isn’t anything subtle about pink sequins and faux fur.” You’re right, and we haven’t lost the plot due to our childish excitement for the sparkly frocks that hit the catwalk. However, the use of colour: (pink) the texture: (sequins) and the contrast of androgyny: (black ankle boots) leaves the latest Preen collection head and puffy shoulders above the rest through the individuality and innovative nature of the brand by the delicate mix of hard and soft between male and female. So, we hope you’ve been reformed into thinking that bright hues aren’t just suitable for the sunshine. Preen has clarified how wearable almost every texture, colour, and combination of the above can work and also look ridiculously effortless. Now, go forth into the darker nights and channel your inner glam rock chic with an elegant, Victorian edge. And yes, sequins are a must.
Catwalking.com
we haven’t lost the plot due to our chldish excitement for the sparkly frocks that hit the catwalk.
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Sparkle, shimmer and shine! Three words we can’t deny we still love to hear, even though we aren’t four years old anymore. Sprinkle some glitter into the darker nights as seen at Tommy Hilfiger. Sequined dresses and tops were spotted across the runways and are sure to glisten under the lights. Everyone within sight will be left bedazzled.
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Preen
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Michael Kors
Miu Miu
Roberto Cavalli
Roberto Cavalli
Miu Miu
Roberto Cavalli
Kenzo
Roberto Cavalli
Kenzo Kenzo
Michael Kors
From Parma violets hues to deep Cadburys purple, and anything in between, purple is the colour of choice this A/W16. If you’re brave enough, go for a head to toe ensemble in the signature tone, like that shown at Kenzo and Michael Kors. But, if you’re not quite there yet, then simply add a splash to your outfit through a statement jacket à la Roberto Cavalli.
Kenzo
Etro
Kenzo
Balenciaga Miu Miu The cooling down of autumn sees the return of layering which comes as no surprise. But! This season add a touch of pizzazz to those wintery layers with sultry sweetheart necklines poised underneath. We guarantee that you’ll be the perfect combination of angelic and alluring. That’s sure to make those darker evenings all the sweeter.
Dior Dior
Balenciaga
Miu Miu
Miu Miu
Gucci Peter Pilotto
Gucci
Gucci
Gucci
Gucci
Roksanda No, you’re not seeing things, we promise! Ruffles are back again and they’re set to conquer through the colder months too. “How do you make light, frilly ruffles work in winter, though?” I hear you ask. Well, instead of a
Roksanda
JW Anderson
JW Anderson
Roksanda
Christopher Kane cascading, ruffled maxi dress, work the trend with frilly knitwear over frillier shirts. Warmth and style go hand in hand this season.
Illustration : Margarete Gockel
Burberry
Burberry
Prada
CĂŠline
CĂŠline
Prada
Burberry
Gucci
Céline
Céline Okay, so it was never really gone. The mac has been a huge part of the British wardrobe for many years, however, this A/W it’s had a makeover. Say hello to the new mac with sculpted sleeves and patterned accents which will ensure nothing can rain on your parade. Take note from Gucci, Prada and Celine.
Calvin Klein
Calvin Klein
Calvin Klein
Givenchy
Calvin Klein Givenchy
Givenchy
Bottega Veneta
Dolce&Gabbana
Bottega Veneta This A/W the fash pack has gone on safari, with animal print bounding back. Think Leopard, Zebra and Snake and you’re bang on the money, like that of Calvin Klein and Givenchy. Set your inner tigress free and run wild! It’ll keep the autumn chill at bay.
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Marquez Almeida
Stella McCartney
Marquez Almeida
Marquez Almeida
Stella McCartney
Prada Gucci
Saint Laurent
Saint Laurent
Gucci
Saint Laurent Up, up and away! Shoulders are inflating at a rate of knots this AW16. Think glam rock, Dynasty and New Romantics all rolled into one. This season’s shoulder game is strong with puffy sleeves and wholly exagerated shoulders left to do all the talking. Now rise up for AW16 and make like Saint Laurent and Gucci you’re ready to go.
Prada
Marni
Saint Laurent
Gucci
Prada
Saint Laurent
Gucci
Saint Laurent
Marni
Gucci
Saint Laurent
Illustrations : Margarete Gockel
Dolce & Gabbana
Gucci Pucci
Salvatore Ferragamo
Pucci The Catwalks have been a kaleidoscope of colour and print for A/W16. The order of the day is for anything out of the ordinary this season, made evident by the dramatic prints that are whipping up a frenzy. Zig Zags, Checks and Florals are some of the few ‘out-there’ prints we’ve seen, particularly at Ferragamo, Marni and of course Dolce & Gabbana. Prepare yourself, the days of block colour may be coming to an end!
Gucci
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Salvatore Ferragamo
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Marni
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Dolce & Gabbana
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Roksanda Mulberry
Alexander McQueen
Roksanda
There is always ‘something of the night’ associated with the cape, so we couldn’t resist this inference with our illustration. This season however, it’s nothing but the upmost chicness with regards to this garment. Take a look at Alexander McQueen for how to nail this AW16 trend perfectly. Worn with a floor length dress, as a new winter coat or beaded to oblivion, this cape trend can show the cold winter evenings who is haute.
Mulberry
Mulberry Alexander McQueen
Photography: Catwalking.com
PRADA.MILAN.AW‘16-17
International Runway Shows Photography: Catwalking.com
VOIR LOVES
Photography: Catwalking.com
THOM BROWNE.NEW YORK.AW‘16-17
There is a reason that you enjoy going to the theatre or a concert. It enables you to escape reality, and be transported to another world. A world full of make-believe, wonderment, passion, ecstasy. To a place where everything and anything is possible. You can lose your inhibitions, move to the music, unafraid and unhindered. Today, for the fashionistas and fashion-obsessors, the runway provides exactly that. Those behind the runway scenes however, don’t have a three hour script or hundreds of songs to perform, they are dealt a hand where they have to accomplish the transportation of guests, models and celebrities in a mere twelve minute performance. “The Fashion Set” explores The Art of the Fashion Show by taking you on a journey around some of the most elaborate and decadent runway shows ever created, by the likes of Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel and Fendi, and by the Houses Dior and Gucci.
Hunter Originals AW 2015 (Dan Medhurst)
Schiaparelli SS 2015 (Schiaparelli)
What the book beautifully illustrates, is how a wholesome combination of the music, the setting, the set design and the production - all pull seamlessly together to create an ambiance that truly breathes life into the clothes, giving them an edge, a meaning, purpose. It is a celebration of the key players within the fashion industry, and provides the perfect opportunity for you to become fully immersed in the world of fashion. Visit www.roads.co/publishing to order your copy today. Laura White.
DSquared2 SS 2014 (DSqaured2)
Background Image: Moncler SS 2015 (Moncler)
Celine AW 2008 (Vincent Lappartient)
Moncler SS 2016 (Moncler)
Antonio Marras AW 2013 (Antonio Marras) Tommy Hilfiger SS 2015 (Tommy Hilfiger)
Illustrations : Margarete Gockel
Voir loves the story of Kathryn Sargent, the first female Master Tailor to beat a pathway to the doors of Savile Row. Bespoke tailors with a rich history is what tends to spring to mind when you think of the highly sought-after craftsmen on one of the most famous streets in London. Tailors who hold tradition as a core value, inhabit this street, and so it is with no surprise that when Kathryn Sargent opened a shop amidst the men, she caused quite a stir! William Skinner, Managing Director of Dege & Skinner and Chairman of Savile Row Bespoke Association commented: “It’s fitting that the first woman to be appointed as a Head Cutter on Savile Row is returning, to open a shop of her own and is testament to the continued appeal of Savile Row as the sartorial home of high quality, hand-crafted tailoring.” Sargent grew up in Leeds, attended fashion school at Epsom College and received invaluable experience working behind the scenes with strong, talented women at some of Savile Row’s most renowned tailors before breaking out and going it alone. The house does not have a specific style, Kathryn’s approach to her craft, from the initial consultation to the finished garment, is tailored to the wearer, their lifestyle and requirements. Visit www.kathrynsargent.com for more details. Laura White.
VOIR LOVES
Stina Persson : Illustrator www.stinapersson.com
This is a collage piece - making a not-soperfect drawing become more structural and three-dimensional.
Juan Pablo Castro : Photographer juanpablo-castro.com
Dario Sartori : Photographer dariosartori.com
Lena Davidoff : Photographer www.lenadavidoff.com
Vera Belyavskaya : Photographer Instagram : vera_belyavskaya Model : Vanessa Villegas
Marco Ferreira : Photographer www.21-photography.com/
Melissa Miroslavich : Photographer miroslavichstudio.com
Balint Nemes : Photographer www.behance.net/balintscout
Cyril Ely : Photographer
I run three big festivals and this year I’ve played in Mozambique, Germany, Ibiza. I was in Magaluf TZ: I’ve always loved music last night, Zante the day before, since I was a child, my father it is really taking off. was a DJ when I was younger. My mum’s family is Italian and JM: Would you say it’s been more my dad’s is Irish so I grew up lis- of a natural progression than an tening to lots of different genres. overnight success, and did you My granddad loved Andrea have any challenges along the Bocelli and Dean Martin, really way? cool stuff like that. I grew up listening to everything, I just loved TZ: It definitely was not an overnight success, this is something music. I’ve been working hard at since I JM: When did Dj’ing/Producing was 17, I’m now 27. I have been & Vocalling your own music turn through my fair share of challenges too, I was kicked out of into a career? school, had a son when I was TZ: I started DJing in my teens 16, my girlfriend died in a car for promoters and started to get crash and so did my granddad a great response. Clubs sold out the year before that. My family as my sets were becoming more had been turned upside down and more popular. I was work- and they’ve still just been pushing on a building site when I first ing and pushing to try and get stared out and I had a son to through all that, so it’s nice to be consider. I needed to start mak- doing so well now. ing money from this at that point, so I decided to take the gamble JM: It sounds like you’ve had and I began putting on my own quite a challenging past, were events and selling them out. Now there ever any moments that you JM: When did you first discover your love for music?
just thought you wanted to give up and, if you did, what kept you going? TZ: To be honest, yes, there have been quite a few moments that I wanted to give up. The only thing that has really kept me going is my son, my little boy. I had him at an early age and I remember, at 17, sitting on the end of my bed feeding him five times a night! He is my inspiration, I feel I’m getting a bit emotional here (laughs) but after everything that had happened it was just him and I wanted better for him. So you’ve just got to keep going. JM: What advice would you give to aspiring artists in the music industry? TZ: I think the best advice is to just be yourself. I’ve got so many things going on and I’m going to so many different places now but I still feel as though I’m the same guy I was when I was 18. I give time to anyone no matter their backgrounds and I feel ...
really grateful that I’m here today. Keep your feet on the ground and keep pushing. Don’t let anything defeat you, set a goal and get to it. JM: If you could choose any celebrities to collaborate with, who would you choose? TZ: If I were picking someone right now, I’d love to work with Craig David, someone who is a really good vocal artist. And of course, Drake! But to be honest, I am quite open-minded about it. JM: In terms of fashion, do you have any favourite designers at the moment? TZ: Yes, quite a few! There is a new brand called Prevu London, which I really like, they are a bit of an underdog brand but I think they are really cool. I also love Louis Vuitton and the like. But when it comes to the high street it’s Topman and Zara to be honest, I get a lot from there. Reiss is a favourite as well - there are just so many. JM: And finally, what have you got coming up for the rest of 2016/17 is there anything you can tell us, any sneak peeks? TZ: Well, I have a new track being released in the next couple of weeks, with the music video being planned. The track is called “You Want Me”. I’ve also just been filming a movie that will be in cinemas in which I play a cockney gangster. I recently saw a private screening for it, which is exciting. A lot of things are happening that are pretty cool at the moment, and that I’m really proud of so, yes, look out for those. To see more of Tom Zanetti, visit www.sleepinischeatin.com
“When I do these pieces of work to me it’s just a canvas, whether it’s on the clothes or in relation to a person..... this is painting with people really.”
“I did quite a lot of research on Tom Zanetti’s lyrics before I set out the colours of what I wanted to do really. I think it was important to put a personal edge to this because it’s maybe the first collaboration you’ve done with a celebrity and I think fusing his lyrics with my work was really important”
“I wanted to put him in colours that would really make this kind of pop, and I looked at a lot of stuff from the ‘80s.....and Basquiat and Daniel Palillo, who develops painting like I do and turns them into fashion elements”
“What people saw at the graduate show at Leeds College of Art, I took the idea of creating a gallery that I would want to go to, where I would want to meet myself as an artist and I think with this, also created clothes that I would want to wear”
“I don’t think you should block creativity in any sense. I think selling out is not what I’m really about, I try to stay true to what I do, making sure I’m happy with what I’ve created before it goes. Maybe like with Tom, for someone to wear it or photograph it make sure it’s the best piece of work, even with a painting I wont put a painting out there till im 100% happy with it.”
“People think you just toss some paint about but there is a lot more thought that goes into my work, I’m very good at colour and where I place my brush strokes I’m a very physical person.”
“I try to be like a ray of sunshine, that’s what I try to do. You have to have confidence otherwise you won’t put yourself out there to do it. Like Tom and myself he’s confident in what he does and I’m confident in what I do and you have to build on that and I think collaborating helps you to shine brighter than you ever would.”
“I get bored with the idea that everyone has got to fit, and because I don’t kind of fit almost in a bracket, if I walk into an art gallery you know they kind of look at you like what are you doing in here they can’t believe I’m in there.”
“I don’t try to imitate Basquiat or be like him but I take the positive from his work and I think you have to have an inspiration from most artists. Basquiat did what he wanted to do, free fall, I think that type of rebellion in me comes through my work you know, to do what I want to do. My work is quite primitive in some sense, the beauty of this is I’m learning to refine it get better at what I’m doing and this painting, this jumpsuit is based on a painting that I did that was based on a lot of experimentation.”
“I like to play with different things create lots of different things not just paintings because I find that too restricting for my personality.�
“This is me being a rebel, this is the rebel Mikkel”
“I think my first element is to inspire myself, if I can inspire myself then whatever follows and how people receive it after is a bonus. Passion is important, I’m not there to appeal to the masses.”
“To go to an art college, into an environment where I had to behave myself was very testing for me and I questioned everything, but I think it’s turned into a positive thing because I think you have to question everything. My thought process for my work is first instinct, second is place, third is thought.”
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AUTUMN ‘16 Photography: Veronica Formos
Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it. Confucius
catwalking.com
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BEAUTY Runway Luxe
Autumn/Winter ‘16
Bold lips and neon eye shadows? Urm, yes please! That’s right, the decade synonymous for being bright and brash has just been made wearable. Bright orange and pinks are swiped across lids at Isola Marras, whilst at Saint Laurent we couldn’t take our eyes off the syrupy scarlet lips and deep, smouldering eyes. Cyndi Lauper, eat your heart out.
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Autumn/Winter ‘16 Just when you thought eye make-up couldn’t get any bolder than the 80s, get ready for texture galore. Chanel showed us how to subtly add texture to the eye without going overboard with black shadow. Yet, at Holly Fulton, make up mogul Sam Bryant used silver leaf fragments across the lid for a slightly futuristic feel.
Put down that naked palette and back away from the gel liner. This trend is focused on all things natural, and the beauty in simplicity when it comes to eye make-up. At Vera Wang, Sibling and Ralph Lauren there wasn’t a mascara wand or even a hint of eyeliner in sight, A/W ‘16 is all about letting your natural beauty shine through, after all the eyes are the windows to the soul.
Photography: Catwalking.com
catwalking.com
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BEAUTY
Autumn/Winter ‘16 Pink posy tints are the order of the day for this A/W ‘16 trend. Recreate the look with delicate dabbings of rouge and effortless sweeps of peachy pinks across the apples of the cheek to nail this season’s make up trend. Take note from designers such as Carolina Herrera and Michael Kors.
Create an air of mystery in A/W ‘16 with eyes creating the effect of billowing smoke, whilst still capturing that ‘come-hither’ attitude. Elie Saab and Moschino nailed the trend on the runways, making us want to whip out our blending brushes and become sultry sirens ourselves.
MARC JACOBS.NEW YORK.AW‘16-17
Photography: Catwalking.com
Hair: Project X 2016 Photography: Barry Jeffery Art Direction: Errol Douglas MBE MakeUp: Elizabeth Rita Styling: Desiree Lederer
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BEAUTY Intros by Rachel Langan
Erdem, McQueen and Dolce & Gabbana have all reigned from on high and declared that hair pieces, slides and bands dripping with jewels are this season’s musthaves. Let your inner child run riot as the glitteriest and most dazzling the locks, the better! Don’t worry if you’re not feeling walking down the street in a bedazzled alice band, take after Sonia Rykiel and place a bejewelled slide in the hair, which still ensures you’ve got that dazzling, on trend edge.
This AW16 the definition of ‘curls’ is very much at your own discretion, whether it be ethereal goddess or sultry siren. The looks on the catwalks this season range from billowing, tousled curls at Diane Von Furstenberg to tighter, messier locks arranged in a sophisticated up do at Louis Vuitton. Whatever your style, do it your way and conquer with curls!
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Retro waves are back, but were they ever really gone? Create that timeless elegance and choose your decade. Channel either the 20s with an edgy twist, like at Alexander Wang and Stella McCartney, the 40s with a victory roll style as seen at Gareth Pugh, or nail 60s cool shown at Mary Katrantzou with an exaggerated fringe.
Fringes are taking some time apart this AW16 as designers have adopted more tousled and messy styles, ditching that perfectly polished face framer. Derek Lam and Christopher Kane have shown us how to nail the look perfectly, making AW16 possibly the most wearable season yet!
Photography: Mel Jean Make-up: Emma Bainbridge Hair: Vanessa Barney Model: Emma Hakansson
Creative Director & Hairstylist: Jamie Joynson Photography: Scott Viggars Make-up artist: Fiona Pearce Clothing: HarnessHideout & SueRyder Vintage Products: www.sexyhair.co.uk Salon: Haus Hairdressing Facebook.com/Haushairdressing
Compiled and designed by Jen George
At the Vintage Wholesale Company we take pride in sourcing and grading the best vintage clothing from around the world. Located in the north east of England, we are the premier location for quality used clothing in the UK. All the clothes in our warehouse have been graded to the highest standards, with no major holes, tears or stains, they simply possess all those unique vintage characteristics that we all know and love!!
Jyoti Matoo Editor-In-Chief / Stylist jm@voirfashion.co.uk Luke Walwyn Art Director/Photographer art@voirfashion.co.uk Felix Laurens Brand Liaison creative@voirfashion.co.uk Kymberley Jefferson : Head Hair Stylist Stacey Borg : Head MUA Megan Tallant : MUA Laura White : Editorial Team/Styling Assistant Jen George : Editorial Team/Graphics Assistant Rachel Langan : Editorial Team/Fashion Writer Serena Harker : Videographer WRITERS, ARTISTS & CREATIVES Hannah Oulton Kat Evans Marianne Tupelo Victoria Art Photographer and team Margarete Gockel Illustrator Luis Nunez Photographer and Team Clavon #IamVoir feature: Victor Hugo Ph. Stina Persson Illustrator Juan Pablo Castro Ph. Dario Sartori Ph. Lena Davidoff Ph. Vera Belyavskaya Ph. Marco Ferreira : 21-photography.com Melissa Miroslavic Ph. Balint Nemes Ph. Cyril Ely Ph. Veronica Formos Ph. Project X Hair Team Barry Jeffery Ph. Errol Douglas MBE Mel Jean Ph. and team
Jamie Joynson and the Haus Hairdressing team Scott Viggars Ph. Hk - Research Heather Brown - Proof Reading Special Thank You to the following: Dior Paris Preen Vetements Selfridges Manchester Harvey Nichols Leeds Flannels Topshop Carl Denbigh - Menswear Stylist Fashion Squad Editorial: Mikkel Ullah - Artist Suzy Mason Tom Zanetti and Sony Music Models Siobhan, Anna, Will Conor Burrow Photography Nico Duncan - Props The Vintage Warehouse Company I’m Over It Now Editorial: Chloe Jasmine Whichello Noah Sparron The Met Hotel - Leeds Catwalking.com Emma Morris - Leeds College of Art Leanne Coombes - Midas PR for The Fashion Set book Kathryn Sargent Emma Moffat - Street and Co. For creative submissions and editorial content creative@voirfashion.co.uk For collaborations : jm@voirfashion.co.uk For general enquiries editorial@voirfashion.co.uk For #IamVoir editorial@voirfashion.co.uk
FA S H I O N
Artwork by Mikkel Ullah
Made with Stardust
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