FA S H I O N
Issue N o 9
SEPT/OCT 2014
In Designer : The Language of Moschino - Kat Evans
Geo Luxe : Fashion in a geometric landscape - Voir Creative
Runway Love : The Magic of Catwalking.com - Marianne Tupelo
Totally In Ora : The Rise of Rita Ora by Kat Evans
Director’s Cut : Something About Yves - Voir Creative
The Journey Less Travelled : Union Station L.A by Lesley Pedraza & Jessica Oram
Voir Beauty Special : Seductively Stina Persson [Illustrator]
Cutting Edge : L’Oréal Colour Trophy - Bonnie Bartlett
Helsinki 365 : The Photography of Jussi Hellsten for visithelsinki
Timeless Mono : The Illustration of Cecilia Carlstedt
Burning Desire : 4 Hot Beauty Products
Window Dressing : Elizabeth Daisy
An Italian Romance : Damian Brandon
September/October
In Focus : The Photographic vision of Alice Luker
AUTUMN ‘14
In Focus : The Illustration of Eduard Erlikh
Editor’s Letter
Follow us on Twitter; @Voir_Fashion Email : jm@voirfashion.co.uk
SEPT/OCT ‘ 14
Photograph © Catwalking.com
fashion
TRENDS
by Sarah Holden at Cricket www.cricket-fashion.com
Fashion has been having its cake and eating it this past season and Autumn-Winter 2014 took the notion of catwalk to closet to a whole new level. Distinctively down-to-earth yet surprisingly exciting the Autumn-Winter catwalks were awash with cozy knits, coats and provocative new silhouettes that rendered Spring and Summer a distant memory. For any fashionista worth her footwear portfolio, a statement cover up is always the first focus for the new season and the catwalks delivered! All attention is on the coat this season as designers turned their talents to creating the most lust-worthy of coats from Céline’s headliner button-down coats
and oversized outerwear to Balenciaga’s cocoon-back contenders that harked back to Cristobel Balenciaga’s signature shapes. The Parker took first prize for both him and her seen cavorting down even the catwalks at Saint Laurent worn over the most exquisite of evening wear flirting with that nonchalant attitude that’s swept over the industry. Not for you? Don’t panic…the not so humble coat has many guises from Givenchy’s hybrid printed wool biker jackets to Victoria Beckham’s sharply tailored pleatback options. The coat is where it’s at!
Winter’s new mood was all about wrapping up and the new season’s maxim was luxurious comfort that came in the way of the most alluring knitwear - rib-knit tunic tops and trousers in earthy shades at Céline, Marc Jacobs and Chloé, luxe fuzzy mohair at Givenchy and Marant, sumptuous wooly capes at Burberry and who could forget that oversized slouchy sweater dress that Cara Delevigne freestyled in at the Stella McCartney finale? Grounded by chunky flatforms and exaggerated creepers or juxtaposed with delicate lace pleats, sequined skirts or bare legs it’s time to get our cosy on! Just when we thought that sports luxe had reached the pinnacle of fashion evolution along came an injection of Alpinism. Possibly as important as the invention of Lycra, the developments in luxury sportswear for women has revolutionised the way we dress from the relaxed tailored jogger and the not-sohumble sweatshirt to the more subtle refinements - cuffed hems, foot-loving flats, scuba fabrics and chunky zippers. This season the influence came from higher plains (literally) as mountaineering elements (karabiner-inspired hardware, ropeworks and fringes and graphic landscape intarsia knits and prints) were seen at Balenciaga and Stella McCartney. Karl Lagerfeld showcased the Chanel collection of cropped jogging suits with trainers (YES trainers on the Chanel catwalk) whilst Kenzo’s frenetic prints and trippy colours pulsed the movement on.
Black’s new guise this season was khaki. Harking back to the age old cliché - khaki is the new black, no one did it better that Balmain who sent military green structured leather dresses and skirts teamed with safariinspired leopard-prints and gold down the catwalk. No sooner was the collection off the catwalk than it was on every Kardashian’s back. Whilst the Parker was a massive driving force for the new season’s shade, khaki was not confined to its utilitarian roots but rather given a glamorous after-dark alter-ego. Seen in Isabel Marant’s super sexy sequin skirts worn in that overtly nonchalant way, to Céline and Givenchy’s accessories, the focus of which featured khaki-green suede heels, boots, structured totes and clutch bags. Nothing heralds a sparkly new season like a plethora of distinctive prints and Autumn Winter’s offerings determined a playful new era. The newest trends touched on a retro rebirth from Kenzo and Proenza Schouler’s new rave prints worked in brash colour palettes to vivid oversized spots at Valentino and Prada’s geometric patterns. Saint Laurent’s rock ‘n’ roll metallic gun prints adorned everything from sixties silhouette dresses worn with patent knee high and glitter boots to feminine silk blouses and jacquard skirts. Designers played on the feminine and the fierce and whilst Riccardo Tisci focused on the butterfly and the leopard, Céline and Balmain reworked those classic leopard spots for an injection of eye- catching glamour worked in heavy wools, metallic jacquards and silks. One things for sure - we won’t be short of choice this season! SH
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faking it! Faux fur is Haute again and who better to lead the pack than D&G. Go all the way with gloves, bags and shoe this AW.
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1. ASOS 2. Gucci 3. Primark 4. Paul Andrew 5. MSGM 6. D&G 7. Unreal Fur - Harvey Nichols 8. Marc Jacobs 9. Loft 10. River Island 11. ASOS 12. Elizabeth & James 13. Shrimp 14. River Island 15. Shrimp.
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Be daring, be different, be impractical, be anything that will assert integrity of purpose and imaginative vision against the play-itsafers, the creatures of the commonplace, the slaves of the ordinary.
Christian Dior
vans E e erin rson
Kath erley Jeffe y b ino ymb
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oschmodel by K M f eo 3D
Do you speak Moschino? Italian label Moschino has never exactly been much of a shrinking violet. Since its foundation in the ‘80s, Moschino has carved out its own fashion platform – yes, the label produces high fashion clothes just like other labels, but there’s something fundamentally different. Moschino is eccentric, outrageous and is not shy about breaking fashion rules. Its love of poking fun at the fashion industry has meant that the label has built up a reputation for being tongue in cheek and most of all, fun. Moschino is one of the only brands that the fashion world knows to expect something completely left field from, and be completely ok with it. Throughout the fashion calendar, the label always brings something fresh and can always be relied upon to add an injection of humour and controversy to the runway. 2013 saw a shake-up of the Moschino design team when they introduced American designer Jeremy Scott as the new creative head. Scott, who is well known for his eponymous extravagant and outlandish label, seemed the perfect choice to take over, thanks to his and Moschino’s shared love of all things iconographic and spoof. We knew to expect something special from Moschino for the Autumn/Winter 2014 collection but even the most fashion-forward didn’t guess what was to come from Scott’s inaugural runway show at Milan Fashion Week. In a runway season that had rumblings of discontent amongst fashionlovers, Moschino ramped up their game. Scott’s love of pop culture teamed with fast food, cartoons, packaged snacks and the 90s were all served up to the fashion-hungry in an all-American showdown that is guaranteed to stay in the minds of the fashion elite for years to come, love it or hate it.
The media buzz around the collection was as electric as the collection itself. The bold yellow and red of McDonald’s accessorised with Happy Meal box style bags, 90s street style with heavy gold chains and Sponge Bob Squarepants are key features of the collection. Scott stayed true to the iconic tongue-in-cheek style of Moschino, yet he stepped it up a level, leaving the show’s star studded crowd questioning just how he pulled off mixing McDonald’s, cartoon and high fashion in such a spectacular way. Backstage before the show, Scott stated his inspiration for the collection as three things - the tailoring history of Moschino, street wear, and going to the opera. While these inspirations may not conjure up visions of McDonald’s wrappers and SpongeBob straight away – the collection as a whole makes complete sense once you take a closer look. It was the tailoring synonymous to the label that drew Scott to the McDonald’s colour palette. The golden arches of the McDonald’s M adorned jumpers, jackets and bags while the vibrant red and yellow provided the base for structured jackets and skirts and a slouchy red fur coat lined with yellow. Even the classic Happy Meal and drink cups got a look in, as Scott cheekily transformed them into bags. Putting McDonald’s on the runway is something so left field yet when teamed with the tailored cut of the clothes, reminiscent of Chanel, Scott creates something so flamboyant that fast food becomes fast fashion, and the fashion pack ate it up. The street wear element of the collection marks a throwback to the 90s and to when Moschino enjoyed huge popularity amongst rappers like Notorious B.I.G. Scott’s creations fuse Chanel-styling with a street edge – all dripping with heavy gold jewellery and name-checking of the label. Leather and denim take centre stage with namesake belts built up to create a bondage feel to this chapter of the collection. The all-American themed collection comes to end with SpongeBob and junk food wrappers – what better way? Oversized jumpers, bags, puffa jackets and shoes were all plastered with the unmissable yellow and black of the popular cartoon before giving way to elegant Fruit Loops, Gummy Bears and Hershey’s (to name a few) themed evening gowns – here lies the opera influence.
The juxtaposition of pop culture against the ethereal style of the gowns that round off the collection shows us just how much of a perfect fit that Scott is for Moschino. The final wedding gown covered in nutritional values is a fine example of both Moschino’s and Scott’s joined-up thinking and the need for humour in their clothes. Scott was once asked for one word to describe the label’s creator, his answer: humour. Moschino is no stranger to controversy and this line was by no means any different. The fashion world was waiting with excitement to see what Scott would present and he certainly did not disappoint. While critics were divided, Moschino, and most of the fashion world, celebrated the new direction that Scott is taking the label in. Keeping in line with the classic Moschino aesthetic, Scott has perfectly mixed in his individuality and creativity to produce something that is unprecedented on any runway so far. Style icons such as Anna Dello Russo, Katy Perry and Rita Ora were all seen wearing the collection just days after it was shown. The wear-ability of the collection may have been questioned by some, but, as with Scott’s own line, it has already built up somewhat of a cult following. If you’ve seen and lusted after the French Fries iPhone covers, then you’re already helping to prove those critics wrong. Scott wanted to grab our attention, he wanted to make a statement and most of all, it seems he wanted to make us hungry. The kindred spirit-ship between Moschino and Jeremy Scott has brought about something that will satisfy any fashion-lover’s sweet tooth and the cravings for future lines have only been heightened. There’s just one thing left to say - We’re Lovin’ It! KE
The final wedding gown covered in nutritional values is a fine example of both Moschino’s and Scott’s joinedup thinking and the need for humour in their clothes.
STYLE
Camouflage, khaki, camel, navy, uniforms - military elements come together for Autumn-Winter 2014. 1. Topshop 2. Yves Salomon 3. Whistles 4. Michael Kors 5. Topshop 6. Chloe 7. Freedom 8. Lanvin 9. Valentino 10. Kenzo 11. Givenchy 12. Balmain 13. Moncler 14. Lanvin 15. Burberry 16. Herno 17. Topshop 18. Ash 19. Balmain 20. Alexander Wang 21. Manolo Blahnik 22. Michael Kors 23. Valentino.
ir Creative Concept, styling & photography : Vo Borg MakeUp : Isabelle Mitchell & Stacey Hair : Kymberley Jefferson Styling Assitant : Georgia Whiteman Walker Photographic Assistant : Samantha mesis MCR] Models : Zana [Boss MCR] Sasha [Ne
Zana wears stripe detail tuxedo jacket £1,690.00 Striped stretch-jersey leggings £690.00 both by GIVENCHY PAUL SMITH Wool and cashmere blend coat £470.00 Pablo Clutch Bag £185.00 & Ivana Scarf £175.00 both by SHRIMP Selection of items available at Selfridges Manchester Platform Sandals Top Shop £55.00
Sasha wears SHRIMP Mabel Coat £595.00 Leopard-print silk shirt £335.00 & Leopard-print leggings £130.00 both by VERSUS Selection of items available at Selfridges Manchester Platform Sandals Top Shop £55.00
This and previous page Dulcie Coat £595.00 SHRIMP Colour-block crepe dress £650.00 VICTORIA BECKHAM Selection of items available at Selfridges Manchester Tellis Knee Socks MARIMEKKO marimekko.com
This and previous page Bailey Cropped Jacket £450.00 SHRIMP Two-tone belted lamé dress £685.00 VICTORIA BECKHAM Selection of items available at Selfridges Manchester Choker - Stylist’s own
This and following page Magdelena dress & coat MARIMEKKO available at www.marimekko.com/onlinestore/fashion Antonio Berardi shoes - Stylist’s ownÂ
This and following page Kipale matching dress and jacket MARIMEKKO marimekko.com/onlinestore/fashion Blue Plunge Women’s Cut Out Sandal DANIEL footwear £129.00 Ivana Scarf £175.00 SHRIMP Available at Selfridges Manchester
MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC Neon Boucle Jacket £790.00 JUST CAVALLI Zebra Contrasting Dress £385.00 Selection of items available at Flannels Leeds Antonio Berardi shoes - Stylist’s own Faux Leather Luggage Bag £55.00 TARA Available at Top Shop
TriniT y Leeds | 011.3204.8560
FRIDAY 12th SEPTEMBER TUESDAY 16th SEPTEMBER 2015 ARE YOU ON THE GUEST LIST? Visit www.londonfashionweek.co.uk for more details.
The emotions, the detail, the beauty and the atmosphere of the international shows through the lenses of Catwalking.com. By Marianne Tupelo.
Photograph Š Catwalking.com
Pause for just one moment to think about the hundreds of hours which go into preparing for an international runway show. Meticulously designing the collection, casting the models, fittings, rehearsals, fine adjustments, setting the stage, not to mention schedule changes, travel and waiting time. Then it’s all over within the blink of an eye and a round of applause. Was the collection powerful enough? Will it receive the right attention? Was it memorable?
Cue Catwalking.com, the team of artists poised and ready to capture the spirit of each and every show, details from which the eye scarcely picks up on. You may like to think of them as photographers, but it is their unerring ability to reproduce the essence of each collection, which sets them apart from mere press photographers. Poring over their immense catalogue of catwalk show photographs from the four major international destinations - London, Milan, Paris and New York, I was somewhat humbled and overwhelmed, in the sense that these images were transporting me back to the mini spectacles, such was the depth of detail and atmosphere captured.
It is one thing coming away with photographs from a runway show, it is another thing entirely to capture its magic. Capturing the magic, is what has propelled Catwalking.com to the pole position it is in today. As ‘Official Stills Provider’ to the British Fashion Council, for London Fashion Week and London Collection Men, the company is central to the supply of images for a global fashion industry. Founded fifteen years ago by Chris Moore, (he having gained a quarter of a century’s experience photographing shows for the international catwalk forums) Catwalking.com was the first UK online agency to specialise in runway coverage. Now in its 15th anniversary year, the company has opened its catalogue of images to the public.
It isn’t just the clothes that Catwalking.com capture for a global array of fashion magazines, journals and bloggers eager to deliver the latest looks and trends to their astute readers, the team of specialists train their fashion lenses backstage to bring you the emotions, the detail, the beauty and the atmosphere. They capture that rare smile, the tension, the elegance and the glamour, and that pièce de résistance - the post-show euphoria. It is all too easy to take for granted the latest colour-schemes, armcandy, footwear, interpretations and influences those savvy fashion designers titillate us with each season, with their inspirational collections. But spare a thought for the fact that were it not for the likes of Chris and his team, who bring you every minutiae of detail from the angle of your hair-parting to the height of your heels, how else would you mix your Moschino, style your Saint Laurent, or get creative with Chanel? MT
16 –17 St. Christopher´s Place London W1U 1NZ Boxpark, 2– 4 Bethnal Green Road London E1 6GY
STYLE
Tartania, check and plaid are constantly under the designers’ eyes and AW ‘14 is no different. Accessorise with statement pieces and killer heels to boot.
1. Equipment 2. Maryling 3. Lanvin 4. Proenza Schouler 5. Elizabeth & James 6. TopShop 7. Maria Francesca Pepe 8. Stills 9. ISA Tapia 10. TopShop 11. Kenzo 12. Topshop 13. DVF 14. Freedom 15. Chloe 16. Thakoon Addition
With a client list including Vogue USA, Vogue Germany, Vogue Sposa Italy, Vogue Japan, Elle Germany, Marie Claire France, Madame Figaro Paris, Bazaar Japan, Frau Japan, Wallpaper, W, Town & Country, Tush, Royalton Hotel NYC, Tiffany, Bloomingdale’s, Cinzano Italy and Clinique, this international illustrator needs little introduction.
Illustration : Š Eduard Erlikh
IN
Ph : Š Alice Luker
Inspired by the relationship between art, film and fashion, Alice Luker has the ability to take us into a wonderland of her dreams.
Her work, often drawing on cinematic ideals, has the ability to engage and challenge the viewer in the same way her filmic predecessors have done on the silver screen. Melancholic, poised, motionless yet forever alluring, her subjects, captured in that instance in time, beg us to enquire ‘what happened next’. Visit www.aliceluker.co.uk to find out.
Ph : Š Alice Luker
Ph : Š Alice Luker
Ph : Š Alice Luker
Ph : Š Alice Luker
Ph : Š Alice Luker
Ph : Š Alice Luker
Ph : Š Alice Luker
A VOIR PROMOTION
AT SELFRIDGES
For more information visit www.selfridges.com/themasters
The Ris
e, Rise
and Ris
e of the
fashion
able Ri ta Ora By Kat Evans
In just a little under two years, a virtually unknown Kosovan-born singer has jet-propelled her way to becoming arguably the most sought-after face in fashion and beauty today, or to put it in music parlance - she’s ‘Hot Right Now’ That’s right, Rita Ora is fast becoming the name [or face for that matter] on every fashionistas lips as she rockets her way to brand campaign stardom, and at a mere 23 years of age, it is fair to say she is living every young woman’s dream.
So what is it that makes this pop diva so appealing all of a sudden? A certain prophetic line in her 2012 ‘Hot Right Now’ single requesting ‘Put your hands in the air if you want it right now!’ perhaps? Well the fashion supremos did. She’s cool, she’s edgy, she’s extremely stylish, and most importantly she captures the essence of ‘Right now’. Not one to shy away from anything that is bold, bright and most of all, fun, Ora exudes a spirit which, simply put, has mesmerised the fashion world overnight. She has recently established her own make up line with Rimmel London - dethroning the inimitable Kate Moss in the process, catapulted her way to become the face of Roberto Cavalli’s Autumn/Winter 2014 advertising campaign, successfully collaborated with Adidas and
Marks & Spencer, hit the runway for Jeremy Scott at his debut collection for Moschino at Milan Fashion Week, been snapped up by DKNY as the face of their fragrance ‘MYNY’ and she stars in the brand’s latest advertising campaign #WeAreNYC - and that’s all in the space of the last 12 months. Rita Ora ‘Shine Ya Light’ It was in her teens that Ora moved from her adopted London to New York City to find fame, and in so-doing, caught the eye of music mogul Jay-Z to mark the beginning of a music career for which she is now world-famous. She has since forged her credentials to unwittingly be considered as one of the 15 ‘real New Yorkers’ who front the DKNY advertising campaign. Currently representing the brand at every turn, Rita Ora has already catwalked (and closed) the DKNY Spring ‘14 show, performed at their 25th anniversary party, and become the face of the New York-based fashion house. Not bad for a year’s work. The love affair between DKNY and Ora is one that has developed quickly - Ora commenting that she considers Donna Karan and her team ‘family’. It would appear that feelings are definitely mutual too……
“If Rita can’t sell it, I don’t know who can. She’s full of life, she’s about what everyone wants to feel, energy.”
And I cannot help but imagine Rita’s response sounding like ‘I will never let you down’ . It is little wonder then she was chosen as the face to front their ready-to-wear collection and new fragrance.
Packaged as ‘bold, playful and sophisticated’ and ‘a modern urban spirit’, you’d be forgiven for questioning whether DKNY are describing the fragrance or the platinum-haired beauty – the two are so inextricably linked. Whilst she may not be a native New Yorker, Ora embodies the ‘fiercely unique’ spirit that is associated with the city and people. The ad campaign for instance, shot in Times Square (where else?!), shows us New York through Ora’s eyes, and wearing her signature red lips, she looks completely at home in this vibrant metropolis. The campaign encompasses all that is New York, the ultra-cool and the hipster fashion and attitudes, and does so by using ‘regular’ people. It is evident that Ora is anything but ‘regular’, yet it is clear for all to see that she is the perfect choice for DKNY as she blends so naturally amongst the fashion-forward group. Ora burst onto the scene at a time when fashion icons are more in-demand than ever
– yet she has firmly stamped her mark. Taking over the DKNY mantle from BFF and model-of-the-moment Cara Delevingne is by no means an easy feat, but Ora appears to have done this effortlessly. And in the shadow of Kate Moss at Rimmel London - well she has quite clearly brought her own dynamism to the party. Young, vibrant, tough and talented, [clearly an ode to the Popstar] the lip and nail range capture her personality and London harmoniously. Of course, the range includes Ora’s go-to strikingly red lip colour, aptly named ‘The Redder The Better’ – it’s the one thing in her make-up bag she says she cannot live without. The singer has literally leapt from the unknown on to the world’s fashion stage in a blink of an eye. Her success with DKNY, the appearance in Moschino’s show , it was just a matter of time before the high fashion pack came knocking at her door. Over the last few months the fashion world has been waiting with bated breath as rumours circulated as to who would be fronting Roberto Cavalli’s Autumn/Winter 2014 campaign – sure enough, Rita Ora came out on top.
The Marilyn Monroe-inspired campaign shoot shows Ora at her finest. It has received high praise after Rita sizzles and smoulders her way through the shoot. Her platinum-blonde hair styled into Monroe’s signature curls and flawless, glowing skin, she wears the collection like a second skin. Trouser suits, fitted dresses, pretty jewellery and the first peek of the Regina bag, Ora’s irresistible appeal has hit the highest notes.
“Rita Ora wears fame like a tailored suit. A destiny reserved for the future queen of the pop, who lives her notoriety with the enthusiasm of an extraordinary debut and the awareness of a great diva,” or so the label tells us. If Roberto Cavalli is insisting that Rita Ora is destined for greatness, then who are we to doubt? She has forged her standing in the fashion world in such a short space of time that the future, it seems, looks extremely bright. I mean, after seeing those Cavalli photos, I challenge you not to sing the line ‘R.I.P to the girl you used to see, her days are over’. KE
visit www.trinityleeds.com
A VOIR PROMOTION
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON CO-HOSTS CELEBRATION OF STYLE EVENT Luxury British fashion designer Matthew Williamson is set to host an exclusive dinner as part of Celebration of Style, which is taking place in Liverpool from 13-15 November. The three day style extravaganza, organised in conjunction with independent super boutique Cricket, features a series of pop-up events to celebrate style icons from the world of fashion, beauty, art, photography, music and architecture. Celebration of Style will begin with a dinner hosted by Cricket and Matthew Williamson in the elegant surroundings of Knowsley Hall. Fashion lovers will have the opportunity to meet Matthew Williamson. The event will continue with an ‘Influence of Style’ event, bringing together a panel of experts to give an insight into working in creative industries, including fashion, beauty, art and design. At the
‘Influence of Style’ event, there will be an opportunity to meet specialists from across the fashion and design business, from models, bloggers, photographers and stylists to fashion journalists, PRs and buyers. The focus of Celebration of Style will then move across the city to the Cunard Building on the city’s iconic waterfront. The venue will host a fashion show curated by Justine Mills, co-founder of Cricket. Guests will have the opportunity to see the latest collections from Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent, Matthew Williamson, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Christian Louboutin, Victoria Beckham, Roberto Cavalli, Céline and Lanvin.
For more information, visit www.celebrationofstyle.co.uk
Concept, styling & photography : Voir Creative MakeUp : Stacey Borg Hair : Kymberley Jefferson Assitant : Gabby Little
Chloe wears : Underwire Bralet £24.00 Pin stripe Pencil Skirt £58.00 Rabbit Faux Fur Fluffy Sandals £58.00 Available at TopShop
A VOIR PROMOTION
*Something About Yves was shot entirely at Goldsborough Hall
Goldsborough Hall Church Street Goldsborough North Yorkshire HG5 8NR Tel: 01423 867321
www.goldsboroughhall.com
You know it’s Hip when the likes of Saint Laurent, Gucci and Versace are paying homage to it. Yes 60s style is once again de rigueur. 1. Jonathan Saunders 2. D&G 3. Gucci 4. Prada 5. Lanvin 6. Gucci 7. Erdem 8. Pierre Hardy 9. River Island 10. Moschino Cheap & Chic 11. Chloe 12. Bottega Veneta 13. Kenzo 14. Miu Miu 15. Stella McCartney 16. Larkspur & Hawk 17. Miu Miu 18. Saint Laurent 19. Valentino
Pho togr aph ed b y
Kas ia
Koz insk i
Styling : Alix Devallois Model : Julie Dufourg @Up Models Make Up Artist : Sabine Leib for Urban Decay Hair Stylist : Mickael Lescure Assistant : Marc Tournier
Coat, Top and skirt : MONKI, Leggings : ELEVEN PARIS, Shoes : SARTORE, Necklace : AURELIE BIDERMANN
Coat and top : MASSUOB, Sweater (worn as scarf) : UNIQLO, Shorts : POMANDERE, Socks : WOOLFORD, Shoes : SARTORE
Dress : TARA JARMON, Leggings : ELEVEN PARIS, Shoes : SARTORE,
Top : MONOGRAPHIE, Pants : CACHAREL, Leggings : ELEVEN Paris, Shoes : SARTORE
Sweater : MAISON OLGA, Coat : SAMSØE & SAMSØE, Skirt : MONKI, Socks : WOOLFORD, Shoes : MICHEL VIVIEN
Sweater : ELEVEN PARIS, Skirt : LA REDOUTE, Pants : 22/4, Shoes : SARTORE
A special thank you to Isabelle Breton and Frederic Chauvency for allowing us to work in this extraordinary site in Paris.
Skirt : POMANDERE, Socks : WOLFORD, Shoes : SARTORE
The Illustration of
After graduating from the London College of Communication in 2003, Cecilia Carlstedt begun her career as an illustrator and has since been commissioned for a wide range of clients such as H&M, La Perla, Swarovski, Paul Smith, Victoria’s Secret, Martini Gold, Elle, Vogue, New York Times and W magazine. Her painterly, often period-style, capturing a once-forgotten glamour, evokes a sense of timelessness from a bygone era.
Photography : Barry Jeffery Model: Portia Okotcha @ Storm Styling : Kate Jeffery Make up : Joanna Bernacka-Pettit Hair : Darren Webster @websterwhiteman.com using KMS California & Babyliss Pro
Dress: NAPSUGAR - napsugardesign.com Gloves: Stylists own
Jacket: SORAPOL - sorapol.co.uk, Ear Accessory: Topshop, Rings: various
Dress: Melinda Looi melindalooi.com, Ear Accessory: Topshop, Gloves: Stylist own
Jacket and Skirt: Vir Shete virshete.wordpress.com Shoes: Just Fab - justfab.co.uk, Ring: ASOS.com
Jacket: Sorapol, Pants: American Apparel americanapparel.co.uk, Ear Accessory: Topshop, Rings: various
Leather Jacket: Napsugar, Pants: Bespoke by Kevin Freeman @ Renaissance Couture renaissancecouture.co.uk, Shoes: Just Fab, Necklace: Miss Selfridge, Ear accessory: Topshop
Leather Top: Napsugar Shorts: Dancing Dolls dancingdollsuk.com Shoes: Just Fab
As London continues to put the finishing touches to its forward-focused Spring Summer 2015 Fashion Week, sun-soaked Los Angeles has been busy reminding its glamorous community of the spirit of now. July 19th saw California’s world-famous Boulevard 3 host the quarterly L.A Fashion Corner, gifting five of the city’s high-profile designers the opportunity to showcase their current collections. In a celebrity-studded environment sponsored by Brigade LA, our man in L.A Floyd Hardwick was there to capture the event. We showcase the best that LA had to offer from the likes of Jessica Faulkner, Stella & Jamie, Samantha Eng, Silva and Percée. Marianne Tupelo. Show photographs by Floyd Hardwick
GRACE The
FASHION of
Fashion’s Future is well and truly upon us. Words by Marianne Tupelo.
If you thought you’d visited London Fashion Week prematurely, you would be earnestly forgiven for making that assumption, such was the spectacle of London’s Graduate Fashion Week. Over 30,000 hardened fashion-lovers flocked in to East London’s Truman Brewery in June, to experience 4 days of pop-up shows, live photo shoots, interactive talks, and a grand finale, showcasing the finest graduate talent this country has to offer. Supported by some of the industry’s heavyweights including the likes of George, Karen Millen, L’Oréal, Mulberry, Bourjois Paris, Elle, Fashion Monitor and Vogue Talents, this annual event sees key industry figures scout for fresh new design talent, many of whom will become household names in the future. It is no surprise then, that faces on the front row include some of fashion’s finest; Henry Conway, Zandra Rhodes, Jeff Banks, Hilary Alexander and Amy Willerton to name but a few. Even the likes of Amber Le Bon, Diana
Vickers and Sam Faiers stopped by to show their support and discover the new faces of the fashion world. Caryn Franklin MBE summed up the event and perhaps even the future of fashion in one observant appraisal
“East London feels so alive. There is such excitement from the students and colleges. They have an opportunity to be visible and experience first-hand networking and socialising amongst industry experts. I have noticed a real sense of racial diversity this year, as well as healthy body ideas and various ages on the catwalks. Promoting one look on one body will no longer suffice – the next generation is to herald a new way.” One name Voir Fashion will certainly be keeping a keen eye on is 21 year old Grace Weller of Bath Spa University. She successfully scooped up two of the six awards at a show presented by Zoe Hardman, and looks set to take The Womenswear Award and The Geroge Gold Award accolades into a bright fashion future.
All Artwork in this Beauty feature is reproduced with the kind permission and agreement of Stina Persson/CWC International, Inc, www.cwc-i.com
All Artwork Š Stina Persson
The Bobbi Brown Factor by Elissa Hudson
images courtesy of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics
“A strong brow, bedroom eyes, a bump on the nose - these are the features that inspire me. Beauty isn’t about looking perfect. It’s about celebrating your individuality.” Confident, bold, iconic. That’s the power behind Bobbi Brown’s ground-breaking take on beauty. Her outlook might seem unconventional in an industry that so often revolves around striving for perfection, but to millions of women around the world, it comes as a welcome relief. Bobbi Brown’s products sit reassuringly in our makeup bags and on our dressing tables, being relied upon day after day to enhance what Bobbi would describe as our perfect imperfections.
It all began with a woman who believes that beauty isn’t about perfection; it’s the celebration of individuality and an appreciation of uniqueness. To Bobbi, “makeup is a way for a woman to look and feel like herself, only.....more confident.” Her love for makeup began like most girls’, with the image of her mother applying black eyeliner in her bathroom mirror. Captivated by how such a simple thing could instantaneously make her mother look fresh-faced and glamorous, Bobbi was striding to her local cosmetics store in pursuit of professional training as soon as she was old enough to work. That young girl captivated by her mother’s beauty went on to graduate college with a B.F.A. in Theatrical Makeup and moved to New York City, where she worked tirelessly to build up her portfolio, making industry contacts wherever she could. Her big break came with American Vogue, where she landed her first ever front cover with none other than Naomi Campbell.
Ten years after her move to New York, Bobbi was becoming exasperated with the makeup available to her. She craved products that made it simple to create a polished, natural look, but they simply didn’t exist. A chance meeting with a chemist allowed her the opportunity to create a lipstick designed to her own specification; a silky smooth formula that looked like lips, but better. Bobbi ran with her idea, and another nine shades followed to make up the incredibly successful Bobbi Brown Essentials range. That young girl fascinated by her mother’s beauty had grown up to represent the voice of women everywhere, answering their calls for makeup that was wearable, flattering, and most importantly, allowed them to celebrate their imperfections. Her refreshing approach to beauty had been long-awaited and momentum grew quickly for her eponymous cosmetics line. Buzz surrounded every product she created, garnering the attention of women everywhere and turning her brand into a pillar of modern beauty. Even today, Bobbi remains the creative driving force behind the brand that so many of us now consider the mother ship of “no makeup makeup”, maintaining her status as the woman who finally showed the beauty industry how to celebrate individuality. Unsurprisingly, Bobbi Brown’s latest collection is intuitively reflective of our desire for makeup that enhances our natural features, allowing us to embrace the notion of having perfect imperfections. For more information on Bobbi Brown Cosmetics visit www.bobbibrown.co.uk EH
Voir’s Editor brings you 4 of the hottest beauty products for Autumn. Photography and styling by Voir Creative All transluscent soaps supplied by The Yorkshire Soap Company www.theyorkshiresoapcompany.co.uk
Tom Ford Eye Colour Quad Nude Dip A54 Available from www.tomford.com
Dior 5 Couleurs - Couture Colours & Effects Eyeshadow Paletter 87 Trafalgar Available from www.dior.com
MAC Eye Shadow x 4. A Novel Romance Quad Available from www.maccosmetics.co.uk
Lipstick Queen Silver Screen - You Kid Available from http://uk.spacenk.com
TOM FORDCOSMETICS
THE 59TH L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY GRAND FINAL AWARDS 2014 words : Bonnie Bartlett
Every year the devout disciples of hair descend upon London to experience the extravaganza that is known to be The L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final. This year was no exception as the Grosvenor House bore witness to an exceptional display of glamour, artistry, theatre and showmanship - and that was just the judges. Joking apart, the 59th Awards succeeded to enthral, and provide the platform for cutting-edge creativity in the UK.
This phenomenal global gathering generates copious amounts of anticipation and enthusiasm, and via the catwalk, it engages and inspires the industry’s creatives. The competition attracts some of the highest profile award-winning judges from the hair industry and commands celebrity hosting - Caroline Flack honouring us with her inspired presenting this time around. This year was no exception to the Awards’ definitive standards, which were set right across the board. Over 1000 of the hair industry’s most illustrious figures turned out en masse at the Grosvenor House in London to observe the array of talent. Entrants were encouraged to interpret the theme ‘Hair Inspired by Fashion’, and each year the competition uncovers some of the finest talent in hairdressing, as they debut their creations. The event was opened by Dylan Bradshaw with a breath-taking show, which gave a huge nod to fashion. Skyler McDonald followed by taking the audience on an amazing journey, showcasing hair creations and colour changing technology live on stage. And catwalk models strutted in timely fashion to showcase bespoke looks from 6 of the industry’s most renowned hairdressers. Rush, Toni&Guy, Trevor Sorbie, Charles Worthington, Richard Ward and Daniel Galvin each collaborated with independent film producers to create cutting-edge film, which provided mesmerising backdrops for the catwalk spectacle. It truly was Art at its finest.
And so on to the finalists. The most supreme hairstylists from across the country had gathered to showcase their innovation and expertise live on stage. Think Avant-Garde. Think larger-than-life. Think extravagant. Every possible element from the hair to the makeup to the outfits was styled to absolute perfection. This is precisely the degree of showmanship that gives the L’Oréal Colour Trophy its intangible appeal, its exhilarating energy and its distinctive profile, and keeps the crowds returning year after year. The longest-running and most renowned hair award is The L’Oréal Colour Trophy, this year scooped unanimously by Jamie Stevens of London......“I love my team and I’m so unbelievably happy and proud of Tasha and Megan who created the winning look. Winning the L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2014 means so much to us and I am genuinely speechless! We have an exciting year ahead of us and we are truly overwhelmed, what a night!” Thousands of applicants were narrowed down to a select number of elite stylists. After the gruelling hardship of the previous heats, I was eager to get an account of the evening from a winner’s perspective, so spoke with Adam Hopkins or RMUK, Leeds - winner of The Young Colourist Award.
“I found the whole experience exhilarating! I was pretty nervous on the day of the competition, but I managed to perform on the night and deliver my best work.” He continues, “My experience in the competition has given me a lot of confidence as a young hairdresser, and has enabled me to get my foot in the creative world of session and magazine work. I’m am also looking forward to the year ahead of working with L’Oreal as a brand, and discovering new techniques and knowledge.” With such promising feedback, I endeavoured to find out what life-changing effect winning such a prestigious award could bring, so contacted Emily Scarth of Russell Eaton, Leeds - winner of the 2011 Colour Trophy Award. “It really has helped raise my profile, I was able to do a shoot for Vogue magazine which was fantastic exposure and the opportunity of a lifetime! There was a lot of local and national press around the awards, which helped advertise the salon and myself. We went to Madrid to work alongside industry experts where we gained priceless knowledge and experience as part of our prize, and also assisting at shows and seminars.”
Emily revealed “Both my clients and the salon’s really loved the fact we had won a prestigious award and we gained new clientele because of it. We displayed the huge trophy in the window for our winning year, and it was certainly impressive for new and existing clients.... ....The whole experience of competing was amazing, especially the Awards night itself - I’ve never seen anything like it, celebrities and hair icons with a spectacular show, it really was awesome!” With excitement and disappointment going hand-in-hand, some will go back to the drawing board after the show, whilst the fortunate will sharpen their tools for a ‘Year of Dreams’ prize ahead. And if the thought of a full double page spread shoot in Elle Magazine, lunch with a hairdressing industry icon, bespoke educational courses and invaluable PR opportunities along the way fails to excite, perhaps the thought of hairdressing fame will make those months of preparation, tension and experimentation worth the while. initials BB
A blog about
international h
air trends - By
In Association
Karen Dodds
with Cutting R
oom Creative
Autumn is a time of new beginnings a goodbyes to nd sad dra the warmth a matically, and n d the heat of lazy hazy day have that trim those puttin s. We have all you have bee g off all summ got used to lig airy clothing, n er, whilst you ht and a co bare legs and are there hav nsultation wit hair up and aw hot necks to e h your stylist ay from you attempt to ke to look at ho can adapt th ep us cool, es this year with w is season’s tren p ecially fect the fantastic ds to be perfor you. As re Summer we h had! Now wit gular readers ave all will h the nights of my colum know each s drawing in, th evening chill n e a son’s trends e early of s in the air and h a to v e ry the promise o a b o n a u on our doors rd m s b er and usually ta f winter pre tep it’s a time ke an idea fro vious season to take stock skin, wardrob m th e a nd enhance it of our no d e and our hair. for the next. It ifferent with h ’s air trends and a summary o what follows I’m sure like f id is e as and trends me you find into those win to help ease y the transition Summer Ttre te ou r m onths.! from nds to Autu mn/Winter a one ( not leas difficult Firs t because we t, the BIG ne have all enjoy freedom of e ws.... ed the Fring asy dressing es are OUT! and the thou all those cold Eek!! Sorry ght of and , dark and (s ladies, but fu short fringes hock! horror! days, is a rea ll are now con ) DAMP by lly depressing sidered pass th e fashionista thought! - es when it come é and it’s longe pecially tha s to our hair!! r swept fring t are de rigue So let’s take at what we c e s ur, so get gro a look - pro an all do to e wing those b nto! ase our slide winter month a n g s into the s and still lo ok ‘fabulous as we do! dahling’ Ex treme side pa rtings are still s with us this s o n and either held First and fore eain p la most is the n c e w it h a sneaky hid pony at the n eed to repair after the clim d a en p e under swin our hair left atic aggressio ging loose ha to wave sexily ns of all that s and sand tha ir or over one eye un, sea t has had the . ir wicked way tresses! The with our Th savvy among e centre partin st you will ha up with regula g has made a ve kept only r treatment se return though with no fringe ssions to ens reverse those but , and partnere ure you bun pesky hair co d with a balleri at the nape o ndition proble if you haven’t na r a plaited ne ms but This - fear not he at sleek pigta is a look that lp is at hand immediately in ils. is quite stark . Book by th to the salon fo and is best w e brave and w r an in-depth ment, review o rn ith full make treat- ‘Plain your cleansin u p to J a a g n v e o and conditio products, you ’ look!! No es id the ning here it caping tendri r hair needs ’s as sleek, n ls might have c a llo wed eat and discip hanged leri lined as a ba na herself! l-
Princess hair is the newest big trend to e think woodla merge, acro nd scenes a ss those gro nd Fairytales waves and ri wing out frin . Curls, tails nglets couple ges, down p and pig tails, d with braide and half-up-a onyas a ballerina d buns, bra nd-down loo b u v n e o e r k n fo s o ugh a full hea r those caught with cate and pre d Caribbean-s delitty barrettes and slides. W tyle! way you choo hatever The se, it needs to Colour of Lov be delicate, e and pretty an e.... thereal d just waiting for the Fairy P ride in on his rince to As white horse to with last sea rescue you!!! son the trend a continues to b out block co The Extreme be lo ur and high ponytail is an ditioned and shine, well-c other emergin and a great e o healthy look ng trend is s xample of ho ing colour. B tarting to catc w trends morp season. Use ro n d e h on in a big h each peo false hair an way with ma ple opting fo d false pony extend the le ny r a toned do tails to pas ngths into lon wn version o t blonds or d g long tresse left loose to s f th e ip dye by mo s either dee wing or caug re introductio per bronze to ht at regular in down the len n o f n e s into the ha tervals were gths with a b ir. Warm tone everywhere, w obble to crea esting shape s hether in straw te inter- co s. Braids Pla ppers auburn berry blondes its and Corn will still be wit , to nes, in mid weaves or h us this Autu to light base chocolatey d mn/Winter an s epths. Great d used us w news for tho ith a warm S s e o f pring or Autu mn skin tone as
these perfec tly complem ent and enh face and bod ance the y. Cooler tone s were showc the Creamy B ased in londes, Bronz e, Raven and infused Brun Garnet ettes which suit very mu with a Summ ch those er or Winter s kin tone. Red be the BIG sto has to ry though, eit her cool or wa always the 3 rm , but ‘V’s’ - Vibrant, Vivacious and Vitality... full of So the story this season across the b all about slee oard is k well condit io ned, well gro hair; whether omed worn in one o f the above e trends or dow merging n and loose o r with a winte deau it’s imp r banortant to ensu re your tresse tip top condit s are in ion.
CRC recomm
ends.........
Kerastraight In tense Boost fo r a 30 day inte treatment; Ke nsive rastase Oleo F u sion treatmen regular salon t for visits; L’Orea l Mythic Oil S Shampoo an p a rkling d Sparkling C onditioner for an irresistible adding shine to any h air type. Cloud Nine W ands and Str aightening Iro achieve that ‘f ns to resh from the salon’ look at And for thos h ome! e damp mis erable days come when th soon to e fuzzes and the frizzes em matter how w erge no e try, the Kera straight KS U Brazilian Blow ltimate Dry is the ans wer to your pra A semi-perm yers!!! anent blow d ry......
LOCKSLUXE
(lasting up to 3 months!) that bo nds protein and the hair shaft to keratin (the actu seal and condition al stuff hair is m the hair shaft to drying time. Perfe ade from) onto prevent those ba ct!!! Don’t forget d hair days and sp the highly trained A/W14 look, pres eed up the team at CRC are cribe the right trea here to help you tments, shampo you through how choose your o and conditioner to care for your ha s, styling produc ir at home! So, un ts and guide til next time – it’s over to you!! Karen x
living
CAFÉ COUTURE
Words by Felix Laurens Photography by Voir Creative
www.itunesfestival.com
Cinephiles are beside themselves with excitement in anticipationof London’s hottest Cinema ticket. Silent Swoon, sees the uber-stylish St Martin’s Courtyard transformed into a full-screen open air movie theatre to showcase a series of ‘Heartthrobs in film’ past and present. So if Messrs Matt Damon, Jude Law or the inimitable James Dean pop your corn by way of ‘The Talented Mr. Ripley’, ‘Crazy, Stupid, Love’ or the iconic ‘Rebel without a Cause’, visit www.stmartinscourtyard.co.uk immediately to enter the free prize draw for tickets. The 3 nights from October 14th to 16th inclusively, promise to offer an affair to remember, enhanced with gourmet popcorn, fizz, cozy blankets and wireless headphones. If the occasion fails to send you weak at the knees, we are certain the Dean, Law, Damon trio will. Marianne Tupelo.
We are truly inspired by the photography of Jussi Hellsten who has teamed up with Visit Helsinki to capture local moments in Helsinki throughout the year. Here is a collection of some which took our fancy. For more information visit www.helsinki365.com.
This season, visual merchandisers will showcase their artistic talent, creative vision and fashion forward flair; dressing windows to captivate their customer’s imagination. Each glass frontage is a still frame, reflecting the unique interpretation of an inspired individual, channelling a dream to provide theatre for the eyes. Elizabeth Daisy
Every second Saturday in the month, Leeds UK plays host to a burgeoning mini festival of classic and vintage cars and bikes. Hot Rods as it is colloquially known, has been running for several years, and sees dozens of car-aficionados turn out, park up, and show off their designed obsolescence. It is a jaw-dropping experience, totally unannounced, and there’s not a Clarkson, May or Hammond in sight. Luke W.
A VOIR PROMOTION
For further information contact Paul Heaney on +44 (0) 796 1936 511 (UK) or Email : lightpainter@hotmail.com
Italian Romance An
by Damian Brandon
Starring Alex as The Groom and Katie as The Bride
In Association with
In Association with
Finale
www.normanbar.co.uk
Voir - The Living Fashion Magazine
is an online publication issued on a quarterly basis. Issue 9 has been brought to you by the following : Jyoti Matoo Editor-In-Chief / Stylist jm@voirfashion.co.uk Luke Walwyn Art Director/Photographer art@voirfashion.co.uk Stacey Borg Head MUA Kymberley Jefferson Head Hair Stylist ASSISTANTS Georgia Whiteman Gabby Little Isabelle Mitchell Samantha Walker WRITERS, ARTISTS & CREATIVES Sarah Holden Kat Evans Marianne Tupelo Eduard Erlikh Alice Luker Lesley Pedraza Kasia Kozinski Cecilia Carlstedt Barry Jeffery Magic Owen Floyd Hardwick Stina Persson Elissa Hudson Bonnie Bartlett Karen Dodds Alex Galantino Jussi Hellsten Elizabeth Daisy Damian Brandon Jessica Oram Heather Brown Felix Laurens Andrea Newbould For submissions and editorial content : Email creative@voirfashion.co.uk For collaborations : Email jm@voirfashion.co.uk
www.voirfashion.co.uk
HEL YEAH! Fresh and surprising. Dynamic and lively. Enjoy the slow rhythm of urban Helsinki. Explore and be inspired!
www.visithelsinki.fi
All photos Š Jussi Hellsten, Helsinki365.com