Finecooking breakfast

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HOW TO MAKE

The Perfect Omelet

Breakfast THE BEST OF

88 Delicious Recipes for everyone’s favorite anytime meal!

• Eggs every way • Breakfast for dinner • Brunch classics & more

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Getting the most To contact us: Fine Cooking, The Taunton Press, 63 South Main Street, PO Box 5506, Newtown, CT 06470-5506 Tel: 203-426-8171 Send an email to: fc@taunton.com Visit: www.finecooking.com To submit an article proposal: Write to Fine Cooking at the address above or Call: 800-309-0744 Fax: 203-426-3434 Email: fc@taunton.com To subscribe or place an order: Visit www.finecooking.com/fcorder or call: 800-888-8286 9am-9pm et Mon-Fri 9am-5pm et Sat To find out about Fine Cooking products: Visit www.finecooking.com/products To get help with online member services: Visit www.finecooking.com/customerservice To find answers to frequently asked questions: Visit www.finecooking.com/FAQs To contact Fine Cooking customer service: Email us at support@customerservice.taunton.com

from our recipes

How to follow a recipe

• Before you start, read the recipe from beginning to end so there are no ­surprises. • Before actually starting to cook or bake, gather all the necessary ingredients and equipment. Prepare the ingredients according to the directions in the ingredient list (see “Watch those modifiers” at right for more on this). • For determining doneness, always rely first on the recipe’s sensory descriptor, such as “cook until golden brown.” Consider any times given in a recipe merely as a guide for when to start checking for doneness.

Ingredients

Unless otherwise noted, assume that: • butter is unsalted. • eggs are large (about 2 oz. each). • flour is unbleached all-purpose (don’t sift unless ­directed to).

for the recipe, but what you may not realize is that the placement of these “preparation modifiers” in the ingredient line is as important as the modifier itself. Take, for example, the following two similar lines that you may see in a recipe ingredient list:

• sugar is white granulated.

1 cup rice, cooked

• fresh herbs, greens, and lettuces are washed and dried.

1 cup cooked rice

• garlic, onions, and fresh ginger are peeled. Watch those modifiers

A recipe ingredient list contains words such as “diced” and “chopped” that tell you how to prepare each ingredient

The first line is telling you to take 1 cup of rice and cook it; the second line is calling for 1 cup of rice that has already been cooked. The difference between the two is about 2 cups of cooked rice, and that can make a big ­difference in the outcome of a recipe.

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Copyright 2011 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction without permission of The Taunton Press, Inc.

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b r e a k fa s t b a s i c s

Cast-Iron Cookware From sausage to eggs to pancakes, a cast-iron skillet is essential to making great breakfast food. Here’s how to care for it. The allure of cooking in cast iron goes beyond its glossy good looks. Cast iron heats up slowly, but it holds heat well. Because it’s thick, cast iron heats evenly, without hot spots, which suits it for cooking at high heat. And well-seasoned cast iron is truly stickproof and easy to clean. But cast iron does have a reputation, mostly by those who haven’t cooked with it, of being finicky. Most problems arise from not seasoning the pan correctly or from not maintaining the finish, both of which are actually easy to do. Here’s a primer on how cast iron works and how to care for it to ensure years of pleasurable use.

Season it right New cast-iron pans need to be “seasoned” with oil to keep foods from sticking. For the initial seasoning, most manufacturers recommend coating the pan with a bit of shortening and baking for an hour or more. Here’s how: Heat the oven to 350°F. Meanwhile, heat your pan on the stovetop until hot. With a thick wad of paper towels, spread 1 to 2 teaspoons lard, bacon grease, or solid vegetable shortening all over the inside and outside of the pan. Apply a very thin coating of fat—too much grease and you’ll end up with a gummy residue in your pan. Put the pan upside down on the center rack of the oven for 11⁄2 hours. (Slide a baking sheet or piece of aluminum foil onto the rack beneath the pan to catch any drips.) Turn off the heat and let the pan sit in the oven until cool. The pan won’t be deep black right away but will develop a dark patina with regular use. Preserve the patina Once the pan is seasoned, it’s quite simple to maintain. Some say that washing cast iron destroys the seasoning; these folks prefer to just wipe the pan clean, using coarse salt as an abrasive for cooked-on residue. From our experience, though, that’s often not enough. So we wash cast iron with soap and water and immediately towel it dry. Next, set it on a burner on medium heat until the pan is hot and completely dry. While the pan is still hot, use a paper towel to spread a thin coating of vegetable oil on the interior. With this extra attention, cast iron stays perfectly seasoned and dry. Cast-iron cookware is inexpensive, cooks well, and will last for generations.

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equipment

Juice It Up The easiest way to get your daily fruit is by drinking it. Here’s a look at how to make the freshest juice.

The intense flavor of fresh juice, whether squeezed from a peach for a Bellini or from a lemon for a salad dressing makes a world of difference. The world of equipment to help you get at a fruit or vegetable’s juice is complex, ranging from onepiece manual reamers to involved electric countertop models. Deciding what to buy depends on how often you need juice, and how much. If you like to drink freshly squeezed juice every day, you’ll want a different juicing method than if you just need a teaspoonful or so for recipes once in a while. Here’s your guide to the different types of juicers and how to buy one that suits your needs.

rus ur ong ls uice.

fruit fact To get the most juice, soften citrus fruit by pressing down on it with your palm and rolling it back and forth along a countertop. This weakens cell walls and makes it easier to extract the juice.

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B R E A K FA S T D R I N K S

sparkling pomegranate cocktail One bottle of sparkling wine is enough to make about six cocktails. You can easily double or triple this recipe. Serves 6 1 cup plus 2 Tbs. unsweetened pure pomegranate juice (such as Pom brand), chilled 3 Tbs. sugar syrup (recipe below), chilled 1 750ml bottle dry sparkling wine or Champagne, chilled

In a small pitcher, stir the pomegranate juice and sugar syrup. Fill each flute about one-third full with the pomegranate mixture. Top with the sparkling wine, dividing it evenly among the flutes. Serve immediately.

sugar syrup Yields a scant 2 3 cup, enough to make about 15 cocktails ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup water

masala chai

In a small saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil over high heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Boil for 1 minute. Let cool and then refrigerate until ready to use.

If you find typical coffeehouse chai overpowering, try this version of the well-known Indian spiced tea. Its judicious use of spices results in a kinder, gentler drink. Yields 3¾ cups; serves 4 1 Tbs. loose black tea, such as English Breakfast or Darjeeling 6 green cardamom pods, gently crushed 5 whole cloves 1 small cinnamon stick (about 1½ inches long) ¼ tsp. black peppercorns ¾ cup whole milk 2 Tbs. granulated sugar; more to taste

In a small saucepan, bring 3½ cups water to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the tea, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and peppercorns. Let steep uncovered for 4 minutes, stirring once or twice. Pour through a fine strainer set over a bowl, rinse the saucepan, and pour the tea back into the pan. Add the milk and sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add more sugar to taste. Reheat if necessary over low heat, but don’t boil. Serve hot.

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Bread Basket

authentic brioche This classic yeast bread, rich and golden with butter and eggs, is a breakfast staple. Yields 16 three-inch brioches à tête

1 lb. 2 oz. (4 cups) unbleached allpurpose flour

1/3 cup granulated sugar ½ oz. (4½ tsp.) active dry yeast, preferably Red Star brand 1/2 oz. (2 tsp.) table salt, plus a pinch for the egg wash

4 large eggs, at room temperature, plus 2 large eggs and 1 large egg yolk for the egg wash

4 oz. (1/2 cup) whole milk, at room temperature

8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 16 pieces, slightly softened; more for the pans

Make the dough

bake ahead Brioches reheat well, so any that are not eaten within a day or two can be reheated in a 325°F oven until the outside is crisp, about 7 minutes for small brioches or 15 minutes for large. Wrap cooled brioches well and store at room temperature for up to two days, or freeze for up to five weeks. Thaw, wrapped, at room temperature.

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In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the flour, sugar, yeast, and salt on low speed until well combined. Add 4 of the eggs and the milk and continue mixing on low speed to combine. As soon as the dough starts to clump together, remove the paddle attachment and attach the dough hook. (There will still be unmixed egg and flour in the bowl.) Mix on medium speed for 2 minutes. Using a plastic dough scraper or strong plastic spatula, scrape the bowl and hook. Continue to mix until the dough is firm and elastic, about 2 minutes more. The dough may stick to the hook at this point, but that’s OK. Scrape the dough off the hook again. With the mixer on mediumlow speed, add half of the butter, a few pieces at a time. Scrape down the bowl and dough hook, and remove the dough hook. Give the dough a few kneads by hand in the bowl, repeatedly folding the dough over on itself, to help

incorporate the butter. Reattach the dough hook and add the remaining butter, a few pieces at a time, mixing on medium-low speed. Once all of the butter has been added, increase the mixer speed to medium and mix for 4 minutes. Scrape the dough hook and the sides and bottom of the bowl. Mix again until the dough is smooth, soft, and shiny, about 4 minutes more. You’ll hear the dough slap against the sides of the bowl when it’s ready. (If your kitchen is warm, the dough may seem too loose at this point. Resist the urge to add extra flour, or the brioche may be tough.) Let the dough rise

Use a plastic dough scraper or a spatula to turn the dough out onto a clean, very lightly floured work surface. The dough will be very moist. Knead it by hand a few times and then form it into a ball by folding the sides into the middle at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. Flip the dough over, place your palms on either side of the dough, and tuck it under itself, turning the dough as you tuck to form a loose ball with a smooth top . Transfer the dough, smooth side up, to a clean large bowl. Cover loosely with plastic and let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size, about 1 hour. Let the dough rise again

Use the dough scraper or spatula to turn the dough out, smooth top down, onto a very lightly floured work surface. Again, form it into a ball by folding the sides into the middle at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. Flip the dough over, place your palms on either side of the dough, and tuck it under itself, turning the dough as you tuck to form a loose ball with a smooth top. Transfer the

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fastest-ever cinnamon buns Cottage cheese is the secret to these delectable flaky buns. Yields 12 buns Cooking spray FOR THE DOUGH 3/4 cup cottage cheese (4% milk fat) 1/3 cup buttermilk 1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for rolling

1 Tbs. baking powder

1/2 tsp. table salt 1/4 tsp. baking soda FOR THE FILLING 3/4 oz. (11/2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted 2/3 cup packed light or dark brown sugar 11/2 tsp. ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp. ground allspice 1/4 tsp. ground cloves

1 cup (4 oz.) chopped pecans

FOR THE GLAZE 21/2 oz. (scant 2/3 cup) confectioners’ sugar

2 to 3 Tbs. cold whole or low-fat milk

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Heat the oven to 400°F. Grease the sides and bottom of a 9- or 10-inch springform pan with cooking spray. Make the dough

In a food processor, combine the cottage cheese, butter­ milk, sugar, melted butter, and vanilla. Process until smooth, about 10 seconds. Add the flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda and pulse in short bursts just until the dough clumps together (don’t over­process). The dough will be soft and moist. Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it with floured hands 4 or 5 times until smooth. With a rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12x15-inch rectangle. Make the filling

Brush the dough with the melted butter, leaving a 1/2-inch border unbuttered around the edges. In a medium bowl, combine the brown sugar, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves. Sprinkle the mixture over the buttered area of the dough and pat gently into the surface. Sprinkle the nuts over the sugar mixture. Starting at a long edge, roll up the dough jelly-roll style. Pinch the seam to seal, and leave the ends open. With a sharp knife, cut the roll into 12 equal pieces. Set the pieces, cut side up, in the prepared pan; they should fill the pan and touch slightly, but don’t worry if there are small gaps.

Bake until golden brown and firm to the touch, 20 to 28 minutes. Set the pan on a wire rack to cool for 5 minutes. Run a spatula around the inside edge of the pan and remove the springform ring. Transfer the rolls to a serving plate. Make the glaze

In a small bowl, mix the confectioners’ sugar, 2 Tbs. milk, and vanilla to make a smooth glaze. It should have a thick but pourable consistency, so add up to 1 Tbs. more milk if necessary. Drizzle the glaze over the rolls. Let stand for 15 minutes and serve.

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Leek and Morel Strata, p. 46

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hazelnut waffles The finely ground hazelnuts that go into this batter add a nice nuttiness to the finished waffles. You can top them with maple syrup, but berries and whipped cream (below) will give them a more festive feel. Yields 61/2 cups batter, enough for about 12 standard waffles

3 oz. (2/3 cup) hazelnuts, toasted and skinned

9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

23/4 oz. (2/3 cup) cake flour

1 Tbs. baking powder

1/2 tsp. baking soda 3/4 tsp. table salt 23/4 cups buttermilk 1/2 cup vegetable oil 4 large eggs

1/3 cup granulated sugar 11/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Vegetable oil or nonstick cooking spray for the waffle iron

Warm maple syrup and butter, for serving

With a rotary grater, finely grind the hazelnuts. (Or process the hazelnuts with 2 Tbs. of the flour in a food processor until finely ground.) In a large bowl, whisk the ground hazelnuts, all-purpose and cake flours, baking powder, baking soda, and table salt until well combined. In another bowl, whisk the buttermilk, oil, eggs, sugar, and vanilla until well combined. With a very open whisk or a rubber spatula, lightly stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients until just combined (small lumps in the batter are fine). Let the batter rest for at least 20 minutes (and up to 2 hours in the refrigerator). Cook the waffles according to your waffle iron manufacturer’s instructions. In a Belgian waffle maker, the waffles have a tender interior; in a standard waffle maker, they’ll be crisper.

berry compote Sweet-tart berries are the perfect complement to the toasted hazelnuts in the waffles. Yields about 3 cups

2 tsp. cornstarch

1 Tbs. fruit brandy or water

2 1 0-oz. packages frozen mixed berries (or 4 heaping cups), thawed, with their juices

1 cup granulated sugar

Finely grated zest from 1 lemon

1/4 tsp. ground allspice 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon

In a small bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in the brandy or water. Set aside. Combine the thawed berries and their juices, sugar, lemon zest, allspice, and cinna­mon in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring often until the sugar dissolves. When bubbles ­appear on the side of the pan, just before the fruit reaches a full boil, quickly stir in the cornstarch mixture. Let the fruit boil for only 1 minute to cook the cornstarch; overcooking will make the fruit disintegrate. Remove from the heat. The compote will thicken further as it cools. Make the compote a day or two ahead and refrigerate until needed. The compote may be served at room temperature or slightly warm.

waffle success • Take center stage People like to watch waffles being made, so don’t be shy about cooking the waffles while you and your guests have cocktails or coffee. Keep the waffles warm until it’s time to eat by spreading them—don’t stack—directly on a rack in a 200°F oven. • Be patient Always let your waffle iron heat up until a few drops of water flicked on the surface sizzle. Don’t be tempted to rush batter onto an iron that’s not preheated, or you won’t get maximum browning and flavor. • Stay loose Grease the waffle iron between waffles by applying a light coating of nonstick cooking spray or brushing on a light coating of vegetable oil. • Sneak a peek If the “ready” light or alarm on your waffle maker corresponds to a level of doneness you like, great. If not, don’t be afraid to lift the lid after a couple minutes. You can always leave the waffle in longer if it’s too pale, or crisp it further in the oven.

crème fraîche whipped cream Rich and tangy crème fraîche adds a wonderful zing to whipped cream. This can be made a day ahead. Yields about 3 cups

4 o z. (1/2 cup) crème fraîche (sold in the specialty cheese section of some supermarkets)

3 Tbs. granulated sugar

1 cup cold heavy cream

In a large bowl, whisk the crème fraîche with the sugar until smooth. In a separate large bowl, whip the cream with an electric hand-held or stand mixer until the cream just barely reaches the firm-peak stage (it should hold a peak when the beater is pulled away, but it shouldn’t be grainy). With a rubber spatula, gently fold half of the whipped cream into the crème fraîche and then gently fold in the remaining half. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve; whisk a few times before serving.

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asparagus, ham, and mushroom strata A strata is like an Italian quiche, but instead of an involved pastry crust, leftover bread forms the egg custard base. As with a bread pudding, assemble this dish ahead of time and refrigerate it unbaked for up to 2 days. It’s up to you whether or not to trim the bread crusts—they give the strata a heartier texture. Serves 8

2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for the pan

1 lb. asparagus, ends snapped off, cut into 11/2-inch pieces

apple, sage, and fennel breakfast sausage These sausages are full of flavor with the addition of sautéed apple and crushed fennel seeds. Yields 16 21/2-inch patties; serves 8

3 Tbs. vegetable oil; more as needed

2 tart cooking apples (15 oz. total), such as Granny Smith or Pink Lady, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch dice

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 bunch scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, white and green parts divided

31/2 oz. oyster mushrooms (or shiitake or white mushrooms), stemmed and thinly sliced

2 lb. ground pork (avoid pork labeled “extra tender,” if possible)

1/2 cup loosely packed fresh sage leaves, finely chopped

6 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, whites and greens separated (2 Tbs. whites, 1/2 cup greens)

9 large eggs, beaten

11/2 tsp. fennel seeds, crushed in a mortar or lightly chopped Table salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 200°F. In a 10-inch ­ edium skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil over m heat. Add the apples and the scallion whites. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the apples soften and just begin to brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes. In a large bowl, combine the apple mixture with the pork, scallion greens, sage, fennel seeds, 1 tsp. salt, and 3/4 tsp. pepper. Mix with your hands until well combined, but don’t compact the mixture. Gently shape into 16 patties, about 3 inches in diameter and 3/4 inch thick. In a 12-inch heavy skillet, or a grill pan, heat the remaining 2 Tbs. oil over medium-low to medium heat. Cook the sausages (in batches so they’re not crowded) until nicely browned and cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. Add more oil only if needed after each batch, and adjust the heat to prevent overbrowning.

23/4 cups milk (preferably whole)

1 large loaf (about 1 lb.) rustic white bread (like ciabatta), cut into 1-inch cubes

1/2 lb. thinly sliced deli ham, cut into 1-inch strips

3 cups grated extra-sharp Cheddar (about 8 oz.)

Melt the butter in a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat. Add the asparagus, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the spears start to brown and soften, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and scallion whites and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms soften and cook through, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool for a couple of minutes. Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish. Whisk the eggs with the milk and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Spread the bread in a single layer on the bottom of the baking dish. Top with half of the egg mixture and then cover with half of the ham, cheese, and asparagus mixture, and sprinkle with half the scallion greens. Repeat with the remaining egg mixture, ham, cheese, asparagus mixture, and scallions. Cover with plastic, pressing down so the bread is completely submerged in the egg mixture, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days before baking. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Let the strata sit at room temperature while the oven heats. Bake until the custard sets and the top browns, about 30 minutes. Loosely cover with foil and bake for another 20 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting.

open-faced smoked salmon and avocado sandwiches This twist on bagels and lox gets a flavor boost from orange zest and coriander. Yields 8

3 firm-ripe medium avocados, cut into medium dice

2 medium scallions, thinly sliced

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro; whole leaves for garnish

2 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. fresh lime juice

1 to 11/2 tsp. finely chopped jalapeño

Kosher salt

4 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp. toasted coriander seeds, coarsely ground

In a large bowl, gently mix (don’t mash) the avocado, scallion, chopped cilantro, lime juice, jalapeño, and 1/2 tsp. salt. In another medium bowl, mix the oil, coriander, and orange zest. Toss the salmon with the oil mixture. Rub the toasts lightly with the cut sides of the garlic clove. Portion the avocado mixture among the toasts. Pile the salmon strips on top. Garnish with the cilantro leaves and serve immediately so the toast stays crisp.

1/2 tsp. (scant) finely grated orange zest

1 lb. thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon, cut into 11/2-inch-wide strips

8 slices sourdough bread (each 6½ inches long and 1/2 inch thick), toasted very crisp

2 medium cloves garlic, halved

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Brandied Apricot-Almond Slab Pie, p. 52

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smoky black bean and cheddar burritos with spinach

french-style grilled ham and gruyère

Make the bean mixture the night before. In the morning, just spread it on the tortilla, roll it, and hit the road. Serves 4

Forget take-out breakfast sandwiches: This grilled ham and cheese gets a twist from Dijon mustard and tarragon. Serves 4

4 burrito-size (9- to 10-inch) flour tortillas

6 oz. coarsely grated Gruyère

15 grape tomatoes (about 1 pint), quartered lengthwise

2 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon (or 1 tsp. dried)

4 tsp. salted butter, at room temperature

8 1/4-inch-thick slices egg bread, such as challah or brioche

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more as needed

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro Kosher salt 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tbs. Dijon mustard; more for serving

1/4 cup raw pepitas (optional)

4 thin slices (about 1/4 lb. total) Black Forest ham

1 tsp. seeded and minced chipotle plus 1 tsp. adobo sauce (from a can of chipotles en adobo)

3/4 tsp. ground cumin

1 19-oz. can black beans, drained and rinsed

1/2 cup grated sharp Cheddar 11/2 oz. baby spinach (about 11/2 cups) 1/4 to 1/2 cup sour cream (optional)

Heat the oven to 250°F. Wrap the tortillas in aluminum foil and warm in the oven. Meanwhile, in a small bowl toss the tomatoes with 1 Tbs. of the lime juice, about 11/2 Tbs. of the cilantro, and a generous pinch of salt. Set aside. If using the pepitas, heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil and the pepitas in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until they’re puffed and some are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pepitas to a plate lined with a paper towel. Sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt and toss. Return the pan to medium heat. Add the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil (or, if not using pepitas, heat the 2 Tbs. oil). Add the chipotle, adobo sauce, and cumin. Stir to blend into the oil, and then add the beans and 2 Tbs. water to the pan, stirring to blend. Simmer until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low. Mash about half of the beans with a fork. Stir in the Cheddar and the remaining 21/2 Tbs. cilantro and 1 Tbs. lime juice. Season to taste with salt. If the beans seem too thick, add 1 to 2 Tbs. water to thin to a soft, spreadable consistency. Working with one tortilla at a time, spread about a quarter of the beans along the bottom third of a tortilla. Top with a quarter of the spinach, and sprinkle with about a quarter of the tomatoes and pepitas (if using). If you like, add a little lime juice and sour cream on top. Fold the bottom edge over the filling, fold in the sides, and roll up the burrito.

In a small bowl, mix the cheese and tarragon. Butter all the bread slices on one side only. Put four slices, buttered side down, on a cutting board. Distribute the cheese over the bread and top with the ham, folding the ham slices if they’re large. Spread about 11/2 tsp. mustard on the un­buttered side of the remaining bread slices and set them, mustard side down, on top. Heat a large nonstick pan or griddle over ­medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Put as many sandwiches as will fit in the pan or on the griddle without crowding, cover, and cook ­until the cheese has just begun to melt and the bread is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove the lid and turn the sandwiches, pressing each one firmly with a spatula to flatten it slightly. Cook the sandwiches uncovered until the ­bottom is golden brown, about 1 minute. Turn them once more and press with the spatula again to recrisp the bread, about 30 seconds. Cut in half and serve immediately, with more mustard on the side.

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on the go

brandied apricot-almond slab pie Slab pies are like giant Pop-Tarts designed to feed a crowd. As the pie cools, the filling— made with apricots both fresh and dried— firms up enough that the slices can be eaten out of hand. Yields 1 large pie; serves 10 FOR THE DOUGH 15 oz. (3 / 1 3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

3 Tbs. granulated sugar

1/2 tsp. kosher salt

9 oz. (1 cup plus 2 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 18 pieces

11/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) cold vegetable shortening, cut into 3 pieces FOR THE FILLING 101/2 oz. (about 2 cups) dried apricots, coarsely chopped 2/3 cup granulated sugar 2/3 cup dry white wine 1/3 cup orange juice 12 oz. fresh apricots (about 6 small), pitted and sliced 11/4 tsp. fresh lemon juice 31/2 oz. (1 cup) sliced almonds, toasted 11/2 Tbs. brandy 1/4 tsp. pure almond extract FOR ASSEMBLY

1 large egg yolk

2 oz. (1/2 cup) confectioners’ sugar, sifted

11/2 Tbs. heavy cream or whole milk 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract Make the dough

Put the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor. Add the butter and vegetable shortening and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal, 10 to 12 pulses. Sprinkle 1/3 cup cold water over the mixture and pulse until the dough just starts to come together, 8 to 10 pulses more. If the mixture seems dry, add more water 1 tsp. at a time. Do not overprocess. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface, and gather it into a rectangle that’s about 8 by 12 inches. Flatten slightly, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 3 days.

thick and syrupy; don’t let it scorch. Add the fresh apricots and lemon juice and cook, stirring often, until very soft, about 10 minutes. Mash the mixture with a wooden spoon or potato masher so that it has a thick, jam-like consistency. Remove from the heat. Stir ¾ cup of the almonds, the brandy, and almond extract into the apricot mixture. Cool to room temperature and set aside. (The filling can be made, covered, and refrigerated up to 2 days ahead.)

In a small bowl, mix the confectioners’ sugar, cream, and vanilla extract to form a smooth glaze that’s just fluid enough to drizzle. With a spoon, drizzle the glaze over the top of the pie and immediately sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cup almonds. Allow to set for at least 2 hours before serving. When ready to serve, use a serrated knife to cut the pie. The pie is best eaten the day it’s made, but it will keep for 1 day, well wrapped, at room temperature.

Assemble and bake the pie

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. In a small bowl, beat the egg yolk with 1 tsp. water. On a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 1/8-inchthick, 12x18-inch rectangle. Be sure to loosen the dough several times and reflour underneath so that it doesn’t stick. Trim the dough into an 11x16-inch rectangle and transfer it to the baking sheet. Turn the baking sheet so that a long side faces you, and brush the edges of the dough with the egg wash. Spread the apricot filling evenly over the bottom half of the dough, leaving a ½-inch border. Fold the top half of the dough over the filling, pressing along the edges to secure the sides. Press lightly along the edges with the back of a fork to seal. Brush egg wash all over the top of the dough. Using a paring knife, cut 5 small steam vents in the dough at about 3-inch intervals. Bake until the pie is golden-brown, 55 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.

seal right To seal the filled pie, press a fork down gently, just enough to create a good bond (and a pretty crimped effect), but not so hard that it pushes through to the second layer of dough or pierces it, which may cause the filling to leak.

Make the filling

In a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan, combine the dried apricots, sugar, wine, orange juice, and 2/3 cup water. Simmer over medium-low heat, stirring often, until the apricots are very tender and can be mashed with a wooden spoon, 40 to 45 minutes. Add more water if the apricots are still not soft after most of the liquid has evaporated. The mixture should get

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oven-toasted ham, brie, and apple sandwiches Remove the rind from the brie while the cheese is still cold. For a meaty flavor and texture, choose a thinly sliced ham steak rather than deli ham. Look for a ham steak that’s labeled “ham in natural juices.” Serves 4

1 large baguette (about 1 lb), cut into 4 pieces

7 oz. brie, most of the rind trimmed off, thinly sliced

2 Tbs. unsalted butter

1½ medium Granny Smith apples, peeled (optional), cored, and cut into ¼-inch-thick wedges (about 1½ cups) ¾ lb. ham steak, thinly sliced on the diagonal

2 Tbs. whole-grain Dijon mustard

1 Tbs. honey

1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Split the baguette pieces lengthwise, open them up like a book, and top one side with the brie. Set on a baking sheet lined with parchment or aluminum foil and bake until the cheese melts and the bread lightly browns, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large (12-inch) heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the apples and cook, tossing every minute or so, until they start to soften and brown in places, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the ham and cook, tossing ­gently, until it warms. Remove from the heat and gently toss with the mustard, honey, and thyme until the ham and apples are evenly coated. Using tongs, distribute the ham mixture into the warm pieces of baguette, secure with 2 toothpicks, cut in half, and serve.

leftover brie Although brie is traditionally spread on crackers or bread, it’s also a delicious ingredient in savory cooking. Try folding leftover brie into mashed potatoes, risotto, or polenta, where it will add sharp richness— just be sure to remove the rind first.

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on the go

watermelon, tomato, and feta salad

chinese pork and mushroom wraps

Pop this into a plastic container and pack a fork for a fruitfilled start to your day. Serves 6 to 8

This Asian take on a soft burrito can be eaten out of hand, hot or cold. It’s a great way to use up pork loin leftovers. Serves 6 to 8

2 large yellow tomatoes (about 11/4 lb.), cored and cut into 3/4-inch pieces

1 lb. seedless watermelon, trimmed of rind and cut into 3/4-inch pieces

Kosher salt

2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint

6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

6 cups thinly sliced green cabbage (about 3/4 lb.) 2 Tbs. hoisin sauce (we like Koon Chun or Lee Kum Kee brands), plus 1/2 cup for serving

11/2 Tbs. red wine vinegar

1 Tbs. soy sauce

1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

2 tsp. Asian sesame oil

Kosher salt

1 tsp. rice vinegar

3 Tbs. canola or peanut oil

Coarse sea salt (optional)

2 cups matchstick-cut already cooked roasted pork loin (about 1/2 lb.)

In a large serving bowl, combine the tomatoes, watermelon, and mint. In a small bowl, whisk the oil, vinegar, red pepper flakes, and 1 tsp. kosher salt. Pour over the tomato mixture and toss well. Let the mixture sit for 15 minutes at room temperature. Fold in the feta and toss well. Serve, sprinkled lightly with the coarse sea salt, if using (use about 1/2 tsp.—it adds a bit of texture); this salad can sit for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature.

1 bunch scallions, trimmed, whites and light green parts thinly sliced and green parts cut into 2-inch pieces (keep separate)

8 oz. feta, cut into 3/4-inch pieces

1/2 lb. fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced (about 4 cups)

2 large eggs, beaten

2 tsp. minced fresh ginger

2 tsp. minced garlic

6 to 8 medium (about 8-inch diameter) flour tortillas, warmed

Put the cabbage in a colander over the sink and toss with 1/2 tsp. salt. Let sit for 10 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels and pat dry. In a small bowl, mix 2 Tbs. of the hoisin sauce with the soy sauce, sesame oil, and vinegar. Set aside. In a 12-inch heavy-duty nonstick skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the canola oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the pork, sprinkle lightly with salt and cook, stirring, until it starts to brown around the edges, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a large plate. Add another 1 Tbs. oil to the pan and once it’s shimmering, add the scallion whites, the mushrooms, and 1/4 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until they brown and soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Push the mushroom mixture to one side of the pan and add the eggs. Cook, scrambling and breaking up with a wooden spoon or spatula into small pieces, until just set, about 1 minute. Transfer the contents of the skillet to the plate with the pork. Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and add the scallion greens, cabbage, ginger, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the reserved hoisin mixture and the pork mixture to the cabbage and stir to distribute the hoisin. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 minute to meld the flavors. Spread about 1 Tbs. of the hoisin down the center of a tortilla, arrange a generous amount of the pork mixture over the hoisin, and wrap in the tortilla, burrito-style.

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apple brown-butter jalousie The filling for this oversized toaster pastry can be made and stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Yields one 6x14-inch jalousie pastry; serves 8 11/4 to 11/2 lb. Granny Smith apples (about 3 medium), peeled, halved lengthwise, cored, and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inchthick slices 1/4 cup packed light or dark brown sugar

3 Tbs. granulated sugar

1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

3/4 tsp. ground cinnamon 1/4 tsp. kosher salt Pinch of freshly grated or ground nutmeg

3 Tbs. unsalted butter

1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped out with the back of a knife

1 large egg

1 sheet frozen packaged puff pastry (Pepperidge Farm brand), thawed overnight in the fridge or according to package instructions

Flour, for rolling 1 tsp. demerara, turbinado, or granulated sugar Crème fraîche, lightly sweetened whipped cream, or vanilla ice cream, for serving (optional) Make the filling

In a large bowl, toss the apples, brown sugar, granulated sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg. In a 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium heat until the milk solids turn golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the vanilla seeds, and stir. Carefully add the apple mixture to the skillet; with a heatproof rubber spatula, scrape all the sugar and spices from the bowl into the skillet. Stir the apples to coat them with the butter and then spread them in a fairly even layer. Return the pan to medium heat and cook, stirring gently with the spatula every few minutes (try not to break the apple slices), until the apples are tender but not mushy (taste one) and still hold their shape, and the juices have cooked down to a fairly thick, brown, bubbling syrup, 10 to 13 minutes. Scrape the apples into a wide shallow dish or onto a baking sheet to cool completely before assembling the jalousie.

Assemble the jalousie

Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. In a small bowl, make an egg wash by beating the egg with 1 Tbs. water until well combined. Unfold the pastry dough on a floured surface and gently pinch together any seams that have split. With a floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12x14-inch rectangle. With a sharp knife, cut the rectangle in half lengthwise to form two 6x14inch rectangles. Use a long spatula to help you move one of the dough ­rectangles onto the prepared baking sheet. Use a pastry brush to brush a 1-inch border of egg wash around the perimeter of the dough. (Save the remaining egg wash.) Arrange the fruit in a 4-inch-wide strip down the length of the dough. (Shingle the apple slices in a thick herringbone pattern down the length of the dough; you may need to make a double layer of apples.) Some syrupy apple juices will likely remain in the dish; spoon 2 to 3 Tbs. over the apples. If some of the liquid seeps onto the egg-washed border, don’t worry about it. Lightly dust the remaining piece of puff pastry with flour and then gently fold it in half lengthwise; don’t crease the fold. Using a sharp knife, cut 11/2-inch-long slashes at 1-inch intervals along the folded side of the dough; leave at least a 1-inch border on the remaining three sides. Do not unfold the dough. Using a long spatula, gently lift the folded strip and position it over the fruitfilled dough rectangle, matching up the straight edges.

Gently unfold the top piece of dough and stretch it over the filling, matching the straight edges all the way around the perimeter of the dough. Press the edges gently with your fingertips to seal the dough, and then, with a fork, very gently crimp the edges of the dough all the way around the pastry. Chill the assembled jalousie for 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Bake the jalousie

Right before baking, brush the top of the jalousie with a very light coating of the remaining egg wash (you won’t need it all) and sprinkle with the demerara, turbinado, or granulated sugar. Bake for 15 minutes and then rotate the baking sheet. Continue baking until the pastry is puffed, deep golden brown on top, and light golden brown on the bottom (use a spatula to gently lift the jalousie so you can peek underneath), another 10 to 15 minutes. Immediately transfer the jalousie from the baking sheet to a wire rack and let cool for at least 45 minutes. (Instead of trying to move the hot jalousie with a spatula, lift the parchment to move the jalousie to the rack and then carefully slide the paper out from under the pastry.) Serve slightly warm or at room temperature with crème fraîche, lightly sweetened whipped cream, or vanilla ice cream, if you like. It’s best the day it’s made, but the jalousie will keep, wrapped well in aluminum foil, for 3 days. You can reheat it in a 325°F oven for 5 minutes before serving.

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on the go

ham and cheese croissants Stuffed with ham and cheese, these croissants are a decadent take on the traditional breakfast sandwich. Yields 15 For the dough

1 lb. 2 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for rolling

5 oz. (1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs.) cold water

5 oz. (1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs.) cold whole milk

2 oz. (1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs.) granulated sugar

11/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) soft unsalted butter

1 Tbs. plus scant 1/2 tsp. instant yeast

21/4 tsp. table salt For the butter layer 10 oz. (11/4 cups) cold unsalted butter For the Egg wash and Filling

1 large egg

1/2 lb. sliced ham 1/2 lb. thinly sliced Cheddar or Gruyère MAKE THE DOUGH

Combine all of the dough ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mix on low speed for 3 minutes, scraping the sides of the bowl once if necessary. Mix on medium speed for 3 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured 10-inch pie pan or a dinner plate. Lightly flour the top of the dough and wrap well with plastic so it doesn’t dry out. Refrigerate overnight. MAKE THE BUTTER LAYER

The next day, cut the cold butter lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slabs. Arrange the slabs on a piece of parchment or waxed paper to form a 5- to 6-inch square, cutting the butter crosswise as necessary to fit. Top with an­other piece of parchment or waxed paper. With a rolling pin, pound the butter with light, even strokes. As the pieces begin to adhere, use more force. Pound the butter until it’s about 71/2

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inches square and then trim the edges of the butter. Put the trimmings on top of the square and pound them in lightly with the rolling pin. Refrigerate while you roll out the dough. LAMINATE THE DOUGH

Unwrap and lay the dough on a lightly floured work surface. Roll into a 101/2-inch square. Brush excess flour off the dough. Remove the butter from the refrigerator—it should be pliable but cold. If not, refrigerate a bit longer. Unwrap and place the butter on the dough so that the points of the butter square are centered along the sides of the dough. Fold one flap of dough over the butter toward you, stretching it slightly so that the point just reaches the center of the butter. Repeat with the other flaps. Then press the edges together to completely seal the butter inside the dough. (A complete seal ensures butter won’t escape.) Lightly flour the top and bottom of the dough. With the rolling pin, firmly press the dough to elongate it slightly and then begin rolling instead of pressing, focusing on lengthening rather than widening the dough and keeping the edges straight . Roll the dough until it’s 8x24 inches. If the ends lose their square shape, gently reshape the corners with your hands. Brush any flour off the dough. Pick up one short end of the dough and fold it back over the dough, leaving one-third of the other end of dough exposed. Brush the flour off and then fold the exposed dough over the folded side. Put the dough on a baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze for 20 minutes to relax and chill the dough. Repeat the rolling and folding, this time roll­ing in the direction of the two open ends until the dough is about 8x24 inches. Fold the dough in thirds again, brushing off excess flour and turning under any rounded edges

layer for flavor Thinly sliced ham and sliced or grated cheese—a good Cheddar or Gruyère is best—make the classic croissant deliciously savory.

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individual cinnamon coffee cakes with chocolate-cherry-almond swirl If you want to bake these fresh for special overnight guests, start the dough the day before and get up early the next day to finish in time for a leisurely breakfast. The cakes also freeze like a dream. Wrap unglazed cooled cakes well in plastic wrap and freeze for up to a month. Defrost them overnight (or for a few hours) in the refrigerator and warm them in a low oven before heading out the door. Serves 8 For the dough 1/2 cup warm whole milk (about 105°F) 11/2 tsp. active dry yeast 1/3 cup plus 2 tsp. granulated sugar

9 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour

For the glaze

1 cup confectioners’ sugar

4 to 5 tsp. strong brewed coffee

A day before baking, make the dough

In the bowl of a stand mixer, gently whisk the warm milk with the yeast to combine. ­Sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the sugar. Let the yeast proof until air pockets float up, making the mixture look spongy, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the remaining dough ingredients and mix with the paddle attachment on medium-low speed until the dough comes together, and then continue mixing for 6 minutes to knead the dough, scraping the sides of the bowl once or twice. The dough should be loose and seem more like a tacky batter. Immediately scrape the dough into a greased bowl that’s at least twice the dough’s size, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

1/2 tsp. table salt

Make the filling

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

5 oz. (10 Tbs.) very soft unsalted butter

The next morning, put the chocolate in a food processor and pulse to chop coarsely. Add the dried cherries, almonds, sugar, and cinnamon and pulse until quite fine. Add the egg white and process just until the ingredients form a rough paste. (Cover the leftover yolk and refrigerate.)

1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted For the filling 1/4 lb. semisweet chocolate

Assemble the bread

6 oz. (about 1 cup) dried cherries

1 cup sliced almonds, toasted

Grease 8 cups of a 12-cup muffin pan. Scrape the chilled dough onto a liberally floured surface. Using a well-floured rolling pin, gently roll the dough into a rectangle about 12x8 inches. Work quickly; the warmer the dough gets, the harder it is to handle. Spread the filling by hand over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border on all four sides. It’s all right if it’s a bit uneven. Starting with a long side, roll the dough into a log shape. If the dough sticks to the work surface, use a bench knife or a spatula to lift it. Brush the excess flour from the top and sides of the dough roll. Using a sharp knife, trim the ends of the roll just enough to expose the spiral of filling. Discard the trimmings. Cut the roll into 8 equal slices (each about 11/2 to 2 inches wide). Set each slice, spiral side up, in a greased muffin cup, brushing the flour from the bottom of each piece as you go. Press very gently to be sure each piece reaches the bottom of the cup. Pour a few Tbs. of water into the empty, ungreased cups. Cover the dough with a clean, damp dishtowel or an oversize plastic storage container (to make a little “greenhouse”) and let rise until light and billowy, 11/2 to 2 hours. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 350°F. Make an egg wash by mixing the reserved egg yolk with the 1/2 tsp. milk. Just before baking, brush the dough with the egg wash. Bake until puffed and deep golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool for 10 to 15 minutes. Carefully siphon or drain the water from the extra cups and wipe dry. Loosen under the edge of the cakes’ caps with the tip of a paring knife. If the cakes grew together during baking, cut between them to separate. Turn onto a cooling rack.

1/3 cup granulated sugar 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

1 large egg, separated

1/2 tsp. whole milk

Make and apply the glaze

In a cup, mix the confectioners’ sugar and coffee to make a smooth paste. It should be thick but still pourable. Drizzle over the cakes after they have cooled slightly.

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Creamy Coconut Oatmeal with Dried Peaches and Candied Coconut Pecans, p. 71

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Q u i c k s ta r t

baked eggs with chives and cream These eggs are surprisingly easy: They’re ready in about 10 minutes. Serves 2 2 tsp. unsalted butter, softened

4 large eggs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1½ tsp. chopped fresh chives

2 Tbs. heavy cream

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Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Butter two 6-inch gratin dishes with 1 tsp. butter each. Crack 2 eggs into each gratin dish. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper and sprinkle with the chives. Drizzle 1 Tbs. cream in each dish, starting over the yolks and working around the dish. Bake until the eggs are bubbly and browned on the edges but not quite set in the middle, 5 minutes. (For firmer eggs, bake an additional 1 minute .) Heat the broiler on high. Broil the eggs, still on the center rack of the oven, until the center is just set, about 2 minutes. Remove from the oven immediately—the eggs will continue to set.

candied bacon This maple syrup-coated, brown sugarcrusted bacon is the perfect salty-sweet marriage. Serves 2

6 slices thick-cut bacon

2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. pure maple syrup

11/2 Tbs. light brown sugar

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Arrange the bacon slices on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle both sides with the maple syrup and then sprinkle both sides evenly with the brown sugar. Bake until browned and crisp, 20 to 22 minutes.

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b r e a k fa s t f o r d i n n e r

creamy fontina polenta with mushroom ragù This warm and comforting dish gets a “meaty” feel from sauteed mushrooms. Serves 6 Kosher salt

pork and potato hash with poached eggs and avocado Transform pork leftovers by making a hash topped with poached eggs. Serves 4 11/2 lb. russet potatoes, peeled and cut into small dice (about 33/4 cups) Kosher salt

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed

1 medium yellow onion, cut into small dice (about 11/4 cups)

21/4 cups leftover finely shredded already-cooked pork

2 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/2 tsp. white wine vinegar or lemon juice

4 large eggs

1 large ripe avocado, sliced

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro Piment d’Espelette or other medium-hot red chile flakes (optional)

Put the potatoes in a medium saucepan, add water to cover by about 3/4 inch, and add 1 Tbs. salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook until the potatoes are tender but not falling apart, about 5 minutes. Drain the potatoes, transfer to a plate, and set aside. Heat the oil in a 10-inch straightsided sauté pan over medium-high

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heat. Add the onion and 1/2 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally until soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the pork and continue to cook until the pork is warm, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until the raw garlic aroma subsides, about 1 minute. Add the potatoes, toss gently to combine, and continue to cook, stirring, until heated through, 1 to 3 minutes more. Season to taste with salt. If the hash is a little dry, add a drizzle of olive oil. Keep warm. Fill a medium saucepan with 3 inches of water. Add the vinegar and a pinch of salt, and bring the water to a simmer. Crack the eggs one at a time into a small bowl or teacup and then gently slide each egg into the water. Poach the eggs, gently turning once or twice until the whites are completely opaque but the yolks are still soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs from the water and gently blot dry with a towel. Portion the hash among 4 plates. Prop a poached egg and a few slices of avocado next to each portion. Sprinkle the egg and avocado with salt. Sprinkle the cilantro and piment d’Espelette (if using) over the hash, and serve immediately.

1 cup coarse yellow cornmeal

2 Tbs. olive oil

4 oz. fresh cremini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced

1 medium clove garlic, minced

1½ cups (1 oz. ) mixed dried mushrooms, rehydrated (see below) and chopped, plus ¾ cup of the soaking liquid

2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

Freshly ground black pepper 1½ cups grated Fontina (about 6 oz.)

In a 3-quart saucepan, bring 4½ cups water to a boil. Whisk in 1½ tsp. salt and then the cornmeal. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cornmeal is tender and absorbs all the liquid, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, make the mushroom ragù. Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the fresh mushrooms and cook, stirring, until they soften, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add the garlic, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the rehydrated mushrooms and their liquid, the thyme, ¼ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper; cover with the lid partially ajar and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is a saucy consistency and the mushrooms soften, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir the Fontina into the polenta. Taste and season with salt as needed. Serve the polenta topped with the ragù.

rehydrating dried mushrooms Place the mushrooms in a ­medium heatproof bowl. Submerge the mushrooms under 2 cups of boiling water, or enough to cover them by about an inch, and weight down with a small plate. Soak until the mushrooms are plumped and ­softened, about 20 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a cutting board, squeezing any excess liquid from the mushrooms. Let cool. Remove and discard any tough stems.

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pork chops with mapleginger pan sauce Maple syrup brings a bit of breakfast flavor to any meal. Serves 2

4 thin (1/2-inch) boneless center-cut pork chops

1/4 cup all-purpose flour 3/4 cup homemade or lower-salt chicken broth or water

2 Tbs. dark rum

1 Tbs. pure maple syrup, preferably grade B

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbs. olive oil; more if needed

1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger

1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped

11/2 Tbs. unsalted butter

1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro

1/2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh mint

Pat the pork chops dry with paper towels. Put the flour on a plate. Combine the broth or water, rum, and maple syrup in a measuring cup or small bowl; set aside. Generously season the pork chops on both sides with salt and pepper. Dredge the chops in the flour and shake off the excess. Heat a large skillet on ­medium-high heat for 1 minute. Add the oil, and when it’s hot, set the chops in the pan (if they won’t fit without crowding, cook them in batches). Cook until one side is light golden, about 2 minutes. Turn the pieces and cook until the other side is light golden and the meat is cooked through but still moist, another 1 to 2 minutes. (Because the meat is so thin, it can’t get more than light golden on each side without becoming overcooked and dry.) Transfer the chops to a plate and repeat with the remaining chops, if necessary. Add the ginger and garlic to the pan and stir constantly until they begin to turn golden, 5 to 10 seconds, and then immediately add the maple-rum mixture to the pan. Use a wooden spoon or spatula to scrape up the browned bits and help them dissolve. Boil until the sauce has reduced by about twothirds and is nicely saucy, 3 to 4 minutes. Off the heat, add the butter, swirling the pan vigorously (or whisking) as it melts so it emulsifies the sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the pork and then sprinkle on the cilantro and mint. Serve right away.

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tomato and mozzarella omelet Paired with a green salad and baguette, this omelet makes a satisfying dinner. Yields 1 omelet; serves 1

2 tsp. olive oil

2 Tbs. minced onion

1/2 tsp. minced garlic Kosher salt 1/4 cup chopped and drained canned tomatoes

1 oil-packed sun-dried tomato, minced (to yield 1 tsp.)

Freshly ground black pepper

2 large or extra-large eggs

5 leaves fresh basil, very thinly sliced (to yield 1 Tbs.)

1 tsp. unsalted butter

1 thin slice mozzarella, cut in half

1 Tbs. freshly grated ParmigianoReggiano

1 Tbs. good-quality store-bought basil pesto

In a medium skillet, heat 1 tsp. of the oil over medium heat. Add the onion; cook, stirring, until tender and translucent, about 5 minutes, add­ing the garlic and 2 pinches of salt half­way through. Raise the heat to medium high. Cook, stirring, until golden, another 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the canned tomatoes; ­simmer until the liquid has ­evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the sun-dried tomatoes, several grinds of pepper, and a pinch of salt if needed. You should have about 1/4 cup filling; set aside 1 tsp. for garnish. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, basil, 1 Tbs. water, 2 pinches of salt, and 4 grinds of pepper ­until the yolks and whites are well combined but not foamy. In an 8-inch heavyduty nonstick skillet over mediumhigh heat, heat the remaining 1 tsp. oil and then add the butter. Swirl to coat the pan.

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When the butter melts, pour the eggs into the pan. With a heatproof spatula, scramble the eggs using small, circular scribbling ­motions until soft curds start to form, 30 to 50 seconds. As the mixture firms, spread it over the bottom of the pan; swipe the sides as needed. Stop working the curds to let the omelet begin to firm and let it sit about 30 seconds. (If you like your eggs well done, let it go a bit longer.) Add the mozzarella evenly, leaving a scant margin around the omelet’s edge. Add the tomato filling and use your spatula to gently press them into the curds to incorporate the filling into the omelet. With the spatula, lift one-third of the omelet and fold it over the center like a business letter. Tilt the pan toward the plate to slide the omelet so one-third of it hangs over the pan’s edge. Invert the pan, using the spatula to help support the omelet so that it flips neatly over itself as it slides out of the pan. Garnish with the Parmigiano, the pesto, and the reserved filling.

braised sausages with balsamic-glazed onions and grapes Sausage and grapes are a classic Italian pairing. The addition of balsamic vinegar and caramelized onions turns this into a quick, warming braise. Piercing the sausages with the tines of a fork will allow them to release some of their juices and infuse the broth. Serves 4

3 Tbs. olive oil

8 links sweet Italian sausage (about 2 lb.), pricked with a fork

1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

Kosher salt 1/2 cup homemade or lower-salt chicken broth

2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar

20 seedless red grapes, halved

2 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano

In a large (12-inch) skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil over medium heat until it’s shimmering. Add the sausages and cook, turning every couple of minutes, until they’re browned all over, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a large plate. Add the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and the onion to the pot, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens completely and starts to turn light brown, about 7 minutes. Add the chicken broth and balsamic vinegar and scrape the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon to incorporate any browned bits. Reduce to a gentle simmer (medium low or low, depending on your stovetop). Add the sausages and grapes, cover the pot with the lid ajar, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sausages are cooked through (slice into one to check), about 25 minutes. Serve sprinkled with the oregano.

storing links Most sausage will hold in the refrigerator for three or four days after opening. For longer storage, pack a couple of links in a zip-top bag and freeze for up to three months. When ready to use, thaw in the refrigerator.

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steak and eggs rancheros This beefed-up version of the Mexican breakfast dish huevos rancheros (ranchstyle eggs) makes a hearty dinner. Serves 2

1 tiny clove garlic

Kosher salt

1 small tomato, cut into small dice

1/2 avocado, cut into small dice 1/4 cup homemade or store-bought salsa, drained 1/4 fresh jalapeño, minced

2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro

Freshly ground black pepper

1 Tbs. vegetable oil

2 6-inch corn tortillas

2 large eggs

4 to 5 oz. sliced leftover steak (about four 1/2-inch-thick slices), warmed in the microwave or in a skillet

1/4 cup crumbled feta

Peel and chop the garlic. Sprinkle the garlic with a generous pinch of salt and mash it into a paste with the side of a chef’s knife. In a small bowl, combine the garlic with

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the tomato, avocado, salsa, jalapeño, and 1 Tbs. of the cilantro. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Have ready two dinner plates and a stack of paper towels. Heat the oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Using tongs, fry the tortillas one at a time until just golden and slightly crisp, about 30 seconds per side, and transfer to the paper towels. Reduce the heat to medium low and let the skillet cool down a bit. Meanwhile, blot the excess oil from the tortillas with the paper towels. Sprinkle each tortilla with a pinch of salt. Put one tortilla on each plate. Crack the eggs into the skillet. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook until the yolks’ edges have just begun to set, 2 to 3 minutes. (The eggs should cook gently, so lower the heat if needed.) While the eggs are cooking, divide half the salsa between the tortillas. Divide the steak between the tortillas and top with the remaining salsa. Separate the eggs with the edge of a spatula, if needed. Slide one egg onto each tortilla. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 Tbs. cilantro and the feta. Serve immediately.

pan-fried southwestern hash Buttery fingerling potatoes and a healthy punch of spice wake up this hash. This technique—parboiling the potatoes and then sautéing them and the onions and peppers separately— ensures that the potatoes have a soft interior and crisp exterior. Serves 4 to 6 1¼ lb. fingerling potatoes, cut into ½-inch pieces Kosher salt 1�3 cup canola oil

1 large yellow onion, finely diced (about 1 cup)

½ large red bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch dice (about ¾ cup) ½ medium green bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch dice (about ½ cup)

1 tsp. chili powder

1 tsp. fresh oregano

Freshly ground black pepper

Put the potatoes in a 3-quart saucepan, cover with cold water by a couple of inches, stir in 1 Tbs. salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until the potatoes are tender but still firm, about 10 minutes. Drain well. In a 12-inch heavy skillet, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat until the oil is shimmering. Lower the heat to medium, add the potatoes, sprinkle with ¼ tsp. salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they brown and start to crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a large plate. Raise the heat to medium high, pour the remaining oil into the skillet, add the onion and bell pepper, sprinkle with ½ tsp. salt, and cook, tossing occasionally, until they brown and become somewhat tender, about 4 minutes. Stir in the chili powder, oregano, and ½ tsp. pepper, and cook, tossing, for 30 seconds so the spices become fragrant. Add the potatoes and cook, tossing, until they heat through and pick up the flavors of the vegetables and spices, about 2 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed, and serve.

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toasted bread with chocolate Sometimes, all you want is something sweet before bed. Adding a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of salt is a sophisticated touch. Serves 8 8 1/2-inch-thick slices good bread, such as a rustic peasant bread or a real baguette Best-quality extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling 4 oz. best-quality bittersweet chocolate, very coarsely chopped (scant 1 cup) Sea salt, kosher salt, or any specialty salt

Position a rack 4 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler to high. Put the bread on a baking sheet and toast until light golden on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Drizzle the bread with olive oil. Distribute the chocolate evenly on top of the bread. Turn off the broiler and return the bread to the oven until the residual heat melts the chocolate, about 1 minute. Smooth the chocolate with a table knife, if you want. Sprinkle a pinch of salt on each slice and serve.

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m i d n i g h t c r av i n g s

pork, sweet potato, and apple sauté Instead of pork chops for breakfast, a small tenderloin topped with fruit and vegetables is a satisfying dish. Serves 2 to 3

1 medium sweet potato (about 11 oz.), unpeeled

1 medium yellow onion (about 6 oz.), peeled

1 Golden Delicious apple, unpeeled

1 small pork tenderloin (about 1 lb.)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 Tbs. unsalted butter

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped or grated

4 Tbs. cider vinegar

2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)

Cut the sweet potato, onion, and apple into 1/2-inch cubes or pieces and set each aside separately. Slice the pork into 12 to 14 medallions about 3/4 to 1 inch thick (don’t worry if they’re not all even). Season them with 1 tsp. salt and a little pepper and set aside. In a large straight-sided skillet, melt 1 Tbs. each of the butter and oil over medium heat. Add the sweet potato pieces in one layer and season with about 3/4 tsp. salt and a little pepper. Sauté them until they’re brown and crusty on most sides, about 10 minutes. (Don’t stir often; let them sit in the

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pan for 2 or 3 minutes on each side before flipping with a metal spatula.) Carefully add 3 Tbs. water to the pan, and, as it sizzles, cover the pan briefly (about 1 minute) to let the potato steam. Uncover, stir, and transfer to a bowl. Turn the heat to medium high, heat another 1 Tbs. each butter and oil in the pan, and add the onion and apple. Season with 1/2 tsp. salt. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and both the onion and apple are nicely browned around the edges (the bottom of the pan will be brown), 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the ginger, sauté briefly, and pour 2 Tbs. cider vinegar and 2 Tbs. water into the pan. Remove the pan from the heat and stir to scrape up the browned bits. Transfer the contents of the pan to the bowl with the sweet potatoes. Put the pan back over medium-high heat and add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and 1 Tbs. oil. As soon as the butter sizzles loudly, add the pork medallions in one layer. Cook for 2 minutes (they’ll be lightly browned), turn over, and cook for another 2 minutes. Transfer the pork to a plate. Carefully pour in the remaining 2 Tbs. cider vinegar and 2 Tbs. water, remove the pan briefly from the heat, and scrape up the browned bits. Return the sweet potato mixture to the pan over the heat and stir until heated through. Put several pork slices in the middle of each of 2 or 3 warm plates. Fold the parsley, if using, into the sweet potato mixture and evenly mound it on top of the pork.

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spaghetti alla carbonara If you’d like to make this pasta for four people, double the recipe, but transfer the pasta back into the pot used for cooking it and then toss it with the eggs and cheese. Serves 2 Kosher salt

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

4 oz. fatty pancetta or guanciale, sliced 1/4 inch thick and cut into 11/2x1/2-inch rectangles

Freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup diced red onion

2 large eggs, chilled

1/2 lb. imported dried spaghetti 1/2 cup lightly packed, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta or guanciale and 1/2 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and beginning to crisp, about 5 minutes. (If the meat is browning too quickly, reduce the heat to medium low.) Add the onion and continue to cook until it’s soft and golden and the meat is crisp, about another 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and carefully spoon off all but about 2 Tbs. of the fat. Add 1 Tbs. water to the pan and scrape any browned bits from the bottom. In a small bowl, beat the eggs until smooth and set aside. Cook the spaghetti in the boiling water according to package directions until it’s just shy of al dente. Reserve 1/4 cup of the cooking water and drain the spaghetti. Transfer the spaghetti to the skillet, set it over medium heat, and toss with tongs to coat the spaghetti with the fat and finish cooking to al dente, about 1 minute. If the pasta is too dry or starts to stick to the bottom of the pan, add 1 or 2 tsp. of the pasta water. You want the bottom of the pan to be just barely wet. If the pan is too dry, the eggs will scramble when you add them. Remove the skillet from the heat and pour the eggs over the pasta, tossing quickly and continuously until the eggs thicken and turn to the consistency of a thin custard, 30 seconds to 1 minute. (Tossing constantly is important, as it prevents the eggs from scrambling.) The sauce should be smooth and creamy, and it should cling to the pasta. Add a little more pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Stir in the Parmigiano and season to taste with salt and pepper (you may not need additional salt, as both guanciale and pancetta can be very salty). Serve immediately.

carbonara tricks

Add enough pasta water to prevent the bottom of the pan from becoming dry; the eggs will scramble in a dry pan.

Pour the eggs over the pasta and keep tossing until the eggs thicken into a custard-like consistency.

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plum coffee cake with brown sugar and cardamom streusel Serve this cake drizzled with a little heavy cream or crème fraîche. The cake will keep for a day, covered, at room temperature; if you keep it longer, the moisture from the plums will start to soften the streusel. Yields one 8-inch-square cake; serves 8 or 9 For the streusel 21/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour 1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar 1/8 tsp. kosher salt Pinch (about 1/16 tsp.) of ground cardamom 11/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted; more as needed

For the Cake 1/4 lb. (1/2 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces; more softened for the pan 63/4 oz. (11/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for the pan

2 large eggs

1/2 cup granulated sugar 1/4 cup packed dark or light brown sugar 1/4 cup whole milk 11/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract 11/2 tsp. baking powder 1/2 tsp. table salt 1/2 tsp. ground cardamom

3 firm-ripe medium plums, each pitted and quartered

Make the streusel

Put the flour, sugar, salt, and cardamom in a small bowl and stir with a fork until thoroughly combined. Drizzle the melted butter over the mixture and stir with the fork until the mixture resembles a clumpy dough. Using your fingers, break the mixture into pistachiosize clumps and large crumbs. (If the streusel is sandy and won’t clump, add a little more melted butter, 1 tsp. at a time.) Refrigerate the streusel while you prepare the cake batter. Make the cake

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Lightly butter and flour an 8x8x2-inch straight-sided cake pan. Beat the eggs lightly in a small bowl. Whisk in the granulated sugar, brown sugar, milk, and vanilla until well blended. Set aside. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, table salt, and cardamom until well blended. Add the butter pieces and cut them into the flour with a pastry blender until the mixture resembles a very coarse meal strewn with pieces of butter the size of small peas and oat flakes. Add the egg mixture to the flour. With a wooden spoon, fold and stir until you have a thick batter speckled with visible lumps of butter, 45 seconds to 1 minute. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread it evenly. Break up the streusel mixture with your fingers and sprinkle half of it evenly over the batter. Arrange the plum quarters skin side down on the batter, with each piece at a 45-degree angle to the sides of the pan. Sprinkle the remaining streusel evenly over the cake. Bake for 20 minutes and then rotate the pan. Continue baking until the top of the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with a few moist crumbs clinging to it, another 15 to 20 minutes. Let the cake cool in its pan on a rack for at least an hour before cutting. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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cover recipe

chocolate french toast sandwiches Decadent enough to be dessert, this twist on French toast is popular any time of day. Serves 4

4 slices white sandwich bread (like Pepperidge Farm sandwich bread), fresh or slightly stale

11/2 to 2 oz. good-quality semisweet chocolate (preferably from a thin bar)

2 large eggs

2 Tbs. granulated sugar

1/2 cup half-and-half

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Kosher salt

2 Tbs. unsalted butter

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

Cut each piece of bread into 4 triangles by ­slicing diagonally. Cut or break the chocolate into 8 pieces, roughly the same triangle shape as the bread pieces but slightly smaller by at least 1/4 inch all the way around. In a medium bowl, vigorously whisk the eggs and sugar until well combined. Add the halfand-half, vanilla, and 1/4 tsp. salt and whisk until combined. Put

the bread pieces in the bowl and press down gently to make sure they’re all soaked. In a medium nonstick skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the butter over medium heat. When the butter is melted and ­sizzling, add half of the bread pieces in one layer, leaving a little space between each. Cook until nicely browned, about 2 minutes. Turn each piece over with a spatula and cook until the other side is nicely browned, 11/2 to 2 minutes. Transfer the bread pieces to a plate lined with paper towels and take the skillet off the heat. Put a triangle of chocolate on half of the bread pieces, and top each with another piece of bread (save the best-looking pieces for the tops). Let them sit while you return the pan to the heat, melt the remaining 1 Tbs. ­butter, cook the remaining bread, and fill it with the remaining chocolate. When all the sandwiches are made, arrange 2, overlapping slightly, on each of 4 plates. Sprinkle the con­fec­tioners’ sugar generously over all and serve warm.

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Deep-Fried Bacon and Eggs with Lemon and Egg Vinaigrette, p. 104

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special occasions

mushroom-fontina tart Puff pastry’s light and airy texture combined with dense, earthy mushroom slices makes this a standout breakfast addition. Serves 8 For the mushroom sauté

1 Tbs. olive oil

1 Tbs. unsalted butter

1 lb. mixed fresh mushrooms (try 4 oz. shiitake and 6 oz. each cremini and white mushrooms), washed, trimmed, and sliced 1/4 inch thick

2 cloves garlic, minced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Chopped fresh herbs, such as thyme, sage, and chives (optional) For the tart

1 sheet frozen puff pastry

Flour, for dusting

1 egg, beaten

13/4 oz. (1/2 cup) finely grated Fontina sauté the mushrooms

Heat the oil and butter in a 12-inch sauté pan or skillet over medium heat until the butter foams. Add the mushrooms and garlic. The mushrooms will quickly absorb all the fat in the pan. Sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt and stir until the mushrooms start to release their moisture and begin to shrink, 2 to 3 minutes. Increase the heat to medium high so that you hear a steady sizzle; stir occasionally. In about 5 minutes, when the liquid evaporates and the mushrooms start to brown, give just an occasional sweep with the spoon (about once a minute) to let the mushrooms brown nicely, cooking them another 2 to 4 minutes. Resist the inclination to stir too often. Turn off the heat and toss in the parsley and pepper to taste, adding more salt if needed. Add the other herbs if using and set aside to cool. Make the tart

Meanwhile, thaw the puff pastry at room temperature until pliable, 30 to 45 minutes. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Unfold the pastry sheet and roll it into a rectangle that’s about 10x15 inches and about 1/16 inch thick. Slide it onto a baking sheet lined with parchment. With the exception of about an inch border around the rec­tangle, prick the pastry all over with a fork. With a pastry brush, brush the beaten egg over the border (you won’t need

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all of it). Bake until the pastry begins to puff and the surface feels dry, about 5 minutes. Scatter the mushroom sauté onto the pastry, ­leaving an inch or so of the ­border un­covered. Bake until the crust border is puffed and deeply golden brown, about 10 minutes. Scatter the cheese over the mushrooms and continue baking until the cheese melts, another 2 to 3 minutes. Let cool briefly on a rack before slicing and serving.

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hollandaise sauce

coconut meringues

Here’s the trick to making this simple sauce: Whisk it over simmering water so the egg yolks cook gently and don’t curdle. Yields about 11/2 cups

These meringues can be made 1 day ahead of time and stored in an airtight con­tainer until ready to serve. Yields about 12 pieces, depending on size

4 large egg yolks

1/2 cup unsweetened coconut flakes

2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

3 large egg whites

1 tsp. Dijon mustard (optional)

6 Tbs. granulated sugar

6 oz. (12 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Pinch of cayenne or a few drops of hot pepper sauce Kosher salt

Position a large heatproof bowl over a pot of barely simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. In the bowl, whisk the yolks, lemon juice, and mustard (if using) until well combined. Gradually whisk in the butter in a thin stream and keep whisking until the sauce is thick enough for the whisk to leave tracks that hold for a couple of seconds, 1 to 2 minutes. If the sauce is too thick, whisk in a few drops of hot water to thin it. Whisk in the cayenne or hot sauce and season to taste with salt. Keep the sauce warm in its bowl set over the simmering water, whisking occasionally, until ready to use.

start slowly When whisking in the melted butter, start with a thin stream and slowly add it, to keep the sauce creamy.

passionfruit and citrus salad with coconut meringues You can make this refreshing dessert in minutes. Serve it with coconut meringues for a festive touch. Serves 4

2 kiwis, peeled and sliced

2 ripe mangoes, peeled and sliced

2 blood oranges, peeled and sliced

1 ripe star fruit, sliced

1/8 fresh pineapple, sliced 1/3 cup fresh orange juice

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

1 tsp. sugar, preferably superfine; more to taste

4 passionfruit

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 300°F. Spread 1/4 cup of the coconut flakes on a baking sheet. Bake until golden, about 5 minutes. Lower oven to 200°F. In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Slowly sprinkle in the sugar while beating until the whites are stiff and glossy. Fold in the vanilla and the remaining ­untoasted coconut. Use a pastry bag with a large tip to pipe the meringue into shapes onto an ungreased or parchment-lined ­baking sheet. Sprinkle with the toasted coconut and bake for 1 hour. Turn off the oven and let the meringues dry in the oven until crisp, about 2 hours. Let the meringues cool completely before removing them from the sheet.

get creative Pipe the meringue into any shape you wish, from kisses to logs.

Candied orange zest, for garnish (optional) Coconut meringues (recipe at right)

In a large bowl, combine the slices of kiwi, mango, blood orange, star fruit, and pineapple. In a small bowl, stir the orange juice, lime juice, and sugar and pour this mixture over the fruit. Split the passionfruit and either spoon the pulp and seeds over the sliced fruit, or strain the pulp to ­remove the seeds and then pour over the fruit. Garnish with candied orange zest, if using. Serve with coconut meringues.

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test kitchen technique

Skinning hazelnuts

To skin the hazelnuts for the waffles on p. 39, spread the nuts in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast in a 375°F oven until the skins are mostly split and the nuts are light golden brown (the skins will look darker) and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Don’t overtoast or the nuts will become bitter. Wrap the hot nuts in a clean dishtowel and let them sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Then vigorously rub the nuts against themselves in the towel to remove most of the skins. Try to get at least half of the skins off. This may take a lot of rubbing, so be persistent.

technique

Fresh eggs are best for poaching A properly poached egg, pp. 12, 76, and 104, will hold ­together and be tender, not tough. One trick to poaching them? Use fresh eggs. The thicker white of a fresh egg poaches beautifully without creating all that mess in the water.

technique

Coring pears You’ll peel, core, and then dice the pears for the Winter Fruit Salad on p. 42. To core the pear, first peel and cut it in half. Then, use a melon baller to scoop out the seeds and fibrous core.

tip

How to scrape seeds from a vanilla bean

For the vanilla beans in the Apple Brown-Butter Jalousie on p. 57, hold the bean at one end and, using a paring knife, split the bean lengthwise in half (if only half a bean is called for, cut the whole bean in half crosswise before ­splitting just one of the halves). Then slide the back of the knife down the opened or cut end of the bean and scrape out the seeds.

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nutrition Calories (kcal)

Fat Cal (kcal)

Protein (g)

Carb (g)

Total Fat (g)

Sat Fat (g)

Mo no Fat (g)

Poly Fat (g)

Chol (mg)

Sodium (Mg)

Fiber (g)

110

30

3

16

3.5

1.5

1

0

30

170

0

Masala Chai

50

15

1

8

1.5

1

0

0

5

20

0

Sparkling Pomegranate Cocktail (based on 6 servings)

130

0

0

12

0

0

0

0

0

5

0

Classic Strawberry-Banana Smoothie

110

5

2

25

0.5

0

0

0

0

20

3

Orange Slush (per cup)

180

25

4

35

2.5

1.5

1

0

10

40

0

Homemade Apple Cider

120

0

0

30

0

0

0

0

0

25

0

Real Hot Chocolate

420

270

8

36

30

18

9

1

60

105

3

Spicy Southwestern Bloody Mary (w/1 oz. vodka)

130

0

2

12

0

0

0

0

0

1160

2

Champagne Cocktail

60

0

0

8

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

Strawberry Orange Vanilla Smoothie

270

30

7

54

3.5

0

0.5

2

0

10

2

Cranberry-Orange Muffins (per muffin)

270

90

5

39

11

6

3

0.5

60

250

1

Chocolate-Nut Zucchini Bread

430

180

8

56

21

10

4.5

4.5

85

310

2

Authentic Brioche (per 3-inch brioche)

270

120

6

29

14

8

4

1

115

380

1

Sour Cherry and Walnut Scones

370

150

5

49

17

8

3.5

4

30

200

2

Parsnip and Pecan Sour Cream Muffins (per muffin)

320

147

5

41

16

8

6

2

65

370

2

Fastest-Ever Cinnamon Buns (per bun)

300

120

5

40

13

4.5

6

2.5

15

290

2

Classic Water Bagels (per mini bagel)

100

10

3

18

1

0

0

0.5

0

390

1

Chocolate Chip Muffins

680

270

8

97

30

16

10

2.5

95

320

3

Herbed Buttermilk Biscuits (per 2-inch biscuit)

130

50

3

17

5

2

2

1

5

300

1

Recipe breakfast basics, p. 10 Buttermilk Pancakes (per pancake)

Breakfast Drinks, p. 16

Bread Basket, p. 24

For a Crowd, p. 36 Hazelnut Waffles

290

140

8

30

16

2

8

4.5

75

380

1

Berry Compote (per 1/4 cup)

90

0

0

23

0

0

0

0

0

0

1

Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream (per 1 Tbs.)

20

20

0

1

2

1.5

0.5

0

5

0

0

Cabbage, Leek, and Bacon Tart

660

490

15

29

54

29

19

4

220

860

2

Streusel-Topped Ginger-Apple Coffee Cake

360

122

6

55

13

7

4

2

805

290

1

Winter Fruit Salad

140

0

1

32

0

0

0

0

0

0

4

Smoked Salmon, Goat Cheese, and Artichoke Quiche

590

400

16

33

44

27

12

2.5

230

740

3

Asparagus, Ham, and Mushroom Strata

500

240

32

34

27

15

8

1.5

315

1140

2

Apple, Sage, and Fennel Breakfast Sausage

310

200

21

6

22

7

10

4

75

350

1

Open-Faced Smoked Salmon and Avocado Sandwiches

440

190

20

44

21

3.5

14

3

15

1630

7

Leek and Morel Strata

320

130

18

29

14

6

4.5

1.5

335

630

2

Fresh Fig Tart with Orange Custard

310

160

4

38

18

11

5

1

75

200

4

Smoky Black Bean and Cheddar Burritos with Spinach

510

190

19

63

21

6

10

4

15

1020

9

French-Style Grilled Ham and Gruyère

390

210

22

21

24

12

8

2

95

940

1

Brandied Apricot-Almond Slab Pie

650

280

9

81

32

15

10

3.5

80

65

5

Oven-Toasted Ham, Brie, and Apple Sandwiches

580

180

25

72

20

12

6

0.5

70

1300

3

Watermelon, Tomato, and Feta Salad

190

150

5

8

16

6

9

1.5

25

470

1

Chinese Pork and Mushroom Wraps

330

120

14

36

14

2.5

7

3

70

730

4

Artichoke, Leek, and Taleggio Frittata

190

130

8

6

15

4

8

1.5

165

280

2

Apple Brown-Butter Jalousie

250

120

3

30

13

5

6

1

25

190

1

Ham and Cheese Croissants

380

210

10

33

23

14

6

1

80

600

1

Cherry Breakfast Focaccia

300

10

7

66

1

0

0

0.5

0

490

3

Trail Mix Bars

460

260

8

45

30

11

13

4

50

170

3

Individual Cinnamon Coffee Cakes w/Swirl (per coffee cake)

660

270

12

89

30

13

11

3

120

330

6

On the Go, p. 48

118

B rea k fast an y time 2 0 1 1

FCSIP48_Nutrition_v1.indd 118

12/22/10 4:26 PM


Recipe

Calories (kcal)

Fat Cal (kcal)

Protein (g)

Carb (g)

Total Fat (g)

Sat Fat (g)

Mo no Fat (g)

Poly Fat (g)

Chol (mg)

Sodium (Mg)

Fiber (g)

Quick Start, p. 62 Honey-Almond Granola (per 1/2 cup)

290

150

8

30

17

1.5

9

6

0

90

4

Crispy Sweet Pecan Granola

230

110

4

29

12

1

7

3.5

0

65

4

Prosciutto, Fontina, and Sun-Dried Tomato Quesadillas

150

60

8

13

7

3.5

2.5

0.5

25

490

1

Melons with Ginger Syrup

110

5

2

27

0.5

0

0

0

0

20

2

Baked Eggs with Chives and Cream

230

170

13

1

19

9

6

1.5

455

290

0

Candied Bacon (per slice)

70

25

2

9

2.5

1

1

0

5

150

0 3

Rich Chocolate Muffins

630

340

9

73

38

22

10

2

190

45

Broiled Grapefruit with Honey, Vanilla, and Cardamom

90

0

1

22

0

0

0

0

0

0

2

Cheese Omelet

310

220

21

1

24

12

8

2

470

370

0

Open-Faced Blueberry and Crème Fraîche Brioche Sandwiches

470

290

6

40

32

20

6

0.5

120

220

1

Creamy Coconut Oatmeal with Dried Peaches

550

320

11

54

36

22

7

4

0

90

9

Breakfast for Dinner, p.72 Parsnip Pancakes with Caramelized Onions and Sour Cream

320

170

5

34

19

6

11

1

70

620

6

Spanish Potato Tortilla

170

90

5

15

10

2

7

1

105

400

2

Pork and Potato Hash with Poached Eggs and Avocado

510

230

27

43

26

6

15

3

265

910

8

Creamy Fontina Polenta with Mushroom Ragù

240

120

9

21

14

6

6

1.5

30

550

2

Egg Foo Yung with Chicken and Shiitake

350

230

22

8

26

4

14

7

350

910

1

Pork Chops with Maple-Ginger Pan Sauce (using 2-oz. chops)

510

270

27

23

30

10

16

2

90

650

1

Tomato and Mozzarella Omelet

450

320

24

8

36

12

18

3

455

970

2

Braised Sausages with Balsamic-Glazed Onions and Grapes

530

380

23

15

42

13

22

5

65

1550

1

Steak and Eggs Rancheros

460

270

27

22

30

9

15

4

255

910

6

Pan-Fried Southwestern Hash

200

110

3

19

13

1

8

3.5

0

420

3

Breakfast at Midnight, p. 84 Sweet Potato and Chile Hash with a Fried Egg

430

300

9

28

33

6

16

10

225

970

4

Chocolate French Toast Sandwiches

270

140

7

27

16

9

4

1

135

290

2

Toasted Bread with Chocolate (1.5 oz. bread w/1 tsp. oil)

220

100

5

28

11

3.5

3.5

0

0

390

2

Pork, Sweet Potato, and Apple Sauté

610

320

35

38

36

13

18

2

125

430

5

Spaghetti alla Carbonara

810

310

34

89

34

10

15

4.5

255

1530

6

Rosemary Steak and Potatoes

880

430

75

32

48

24

17

2

255

740

3

Tuscan Poached Eggs

360

160

14

37

18

4

10

2

215

740

5

Plum Coffee Cake with Brown Sugar and Cardamom Streusel

350

140

5

48

16

10

4.5

1

85

240

1

Smoky Refried Bean Tostadas

640

320

20

62

36

8

17

9

35

1400

14

Mini Pizzas with Arugula, Peppers, and Prosciutto

140

45

6

16

5

1.5

2

0.5

10

360

2

Chocolate French Toast Sandwiches

270

140

7

27

16

9

4

1

135

290

2

0

Worth the Effort, p. 94 Mushroom-Fontina Tart

110

80

4

5

9

4

4

1

45

230

Chocolate-Filled Beignets

140

90

2

12

10

4

4

1

30

70

0

Spinach Crêpes with Goat Cheese and Herbs (per crêpe)

100

40

4

10

4.5

2.5

1

0.5

45

150

1

Shrimp and Asparagus with Cheddar Grits

510

220

44

29

25

14

7

2

355

920

1

Deep-Fried Bacon and Eggs with Lemon and Egg Vinaigrette

680

520

20

19

58

11

37

7

460

880

2

Walnut and Rum-Raisin Crêpes (per crêpe, 2Tbs. sauce)

240

120

4

26

14

6

4

3

45

130

1

Eggs Benedict

650

410

30

29

47

24

15

4

665

1450

2 0

Hollandaise Sauce (per 1/4 cup)

240

230

2

1

26

16

7

1.5

200

170

Passionfruit and Citrus Salad with Coconut Meringues

190

8

3

49

1

0

0.5

0.5

0

10

8

Corn Soufflé Puddings

260

180

7

17

20

11

6

1

160

390

2

Classic Tarte Tatin

510

250

4

63

28

17

7

1.5

105

310

2

90

50

0

10

6

4

2

0

15

15

0

Make it Fast, p. 122 Maple Butter (per 1 Tbs.)

The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingre­ dients with measured amounts are included; ingredients with­out specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is used. When the quantities of salt and pepper aren’t specified, the analysis is based on 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. pepper per serving for entrées, and 1/8 tsp. salt and 1/16 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.

f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m

FCSIP48_Nutrition_v1.indd 119

119

12/22/10 4:26 PM


RECIPE INDEX Beef, Chicken, Pork & Lamb Apple, Sage, and Fennel Breakfast Sausage �����������������������45 Braised Sausages with BalsamicGlazed Onions and Grapes ������ 80 Candied Bacon �����������������������������66 Egg Foo Yung with Chicken and Shiitake ��������������������������������������������78 Pork and Potato Hash with Poached Eggs and Avocado ����76 Pork Chops with Maple-Ginger Pan Sauce ���������������������������������������79 Pork, Sweet Potato, and Apple Sauté �������������������������������������������������88

p. 67

Beverages

Rosemary Steak and Potatoes ����������������������������������������� 90

Champagne Cocktail ������������������23

Steak and Eggs Rancheros ��������82

Classic Strawberry-Banana Smoothie ����������������������������������������20

Breads & Muffins

Homemade Apple Cider �����������21 Masala Chai ����������������������������������� 18 Orange Slush ���������������������������������20 Real Hot Chocolate ���������������������21 Sparkling Pomegranate Cocktail ������������������������������������������ 18 Spicy Southwestern Bloody Mary ����������������������������������� 22 Sugar Syrup ����������������������������������� 18 Tangy Strawberry-Orange Smoothie ����������������������������������������23

p. 34

Authentic Brioche �����������������������28 Cherry Breakfast Focaccia ������ 60 Chocolate Chip Muffins �������������34 Chocolate-Nut Zucchini Bread ������������������������������������������������ 27 Classic Water Bagels ������������������� 32 Cranberry-Orange Muffins �������26 Ham and Cheese Croissants ���58

Eggs Benedict ����������������������������� 100 Leek and Morel Strata ���������������� 46 Spaghetti alla Carbonara �����������89 Spanish Potato Tortilla ���������������75 Steak and Eggs Rancheros ��������82 Tomato and Mozzarella Omelet �������������������������������������������� 80 Tuscan Poached Eggs ���������������� 90

Herbed Buttermilk Biscuits �����35 Parsnip and Pecan Sour Cream Muffins ���������������������������������������������30

Fish & Shellfish

Rich Chocolate Muffins �������������� 67

Open-Faced Smoked Salmon and Avocado Sandwiches ���������45

Sour Cherry and Walnut Scones ���������������������������������������������30

Shrimp and Asparagus with Cheddar Grits ������������������������������102

Eggs & Pasta Artichoke, Leek, and Taleggio Frittata ����������������������������������������������56 Asparagus, Ham, and Mushroom Strata �������������������������45 Baked Eggs with Chives and Cream �����������������������������������������������66 Cheese Omelet �����������������������������68 Deep-Fried Bacon and Eggs with Lemon and Egg Vinaigrette ��� 104

120

p. 23

Oatmeal, Granola & Grains Creamy Coconut Oatmeal with Dried Peaches and Candied Coconut Pecans ����������������������������71 Creamy Fontina Polenta with Mushroom Ragù ���������������������������76 Crispy Sweet Pecan Granola ����64 Honey-Almond Granola ������������64

B r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1

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