No. 1 f o r Wa l e s & t h e E n g l i s h B o r d e r C o u n t i e s
May 2010
Road trip
Issue 77 • £2.50
JR Harpin heads for the Welsh coast... in a motorhome!
Life in Ludlow
why it's not just foodies flocking to Shropshire's prettiest market town...
www.cbl.org.uk
In the footsteps of warriors
Embark on a trio of castle walks around Wales' most formidable forts
Meet the bee saviour Discover how one wildlife hero in Oswestry is helping many more save our bees...
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May 2010
I love your magazine and enjoy reading your editor’s letter – it brings the readers closer to you. I must confess I kicked myself for not thinking of sending you some of my photographs sooner, especially as you featured my home town, Llangollen, in last month’s issue! Walking around with my camera is the best, most uplifting stress relief of all. When the weather permits, I do aerial photographs from a Cessna based at Welshpool airport. I happily lean out of the plane taking images, but I’m still unable to climb a ladder through fear of heights! I take these throughout the seasons – here are a few samples. I hope you like them!Â
Kim Price, Llangollen, Denbighshire
Thanks for your kind words, Kim, and your fantastic aerial shots of Llangollen. Your letter makes you the winner of our monthly prize (see below, right). Congratulations.
Pin-up
Many thanks for the beautiful calendar to be much enjoyed throughout the year. Maybe next year you will produce one for sale commercially? Alison Godlee, by email
It’s us who should be thanking you for the kind words, Alison. And for doing our marketing for us! Such was the overwhelming response to our reader survey (the reward for which was the calendar), a 2011 version is very much on the agenda. The only problem is deciding which of the fabulous images on the shortlist to leave out. If you have an image you’d like to submit for consideration, email: calendar@cbl.org.uk Country & Border Life
Email: letters@borderpublishing.com Write to: Letters, Country & Border Life, Border Publishing Ltd, Salop House, Salop Road, Oswestry SY11 2NS.
Word gets around
I wanted to thank you for your terrific article on the Oswestry Festival of the Word. It brought many new visitors to the festival from near and far. Some came to the Literary Walk, the Landgirls event and the Wilfred Owen talks. One poet came to The Oswestry Poets’ HOWL at The Ironworks and read out his entry for your ‘In praise of Oswestry’ poetry competition, which was brilliant! We’re already planning next year’s Oswestry Lit Fest, making it an important and enjoyable part of Oswestry’s year and celebrating the rich talent – past and present – around Oswestry and the Welsh Marches. All in all, it was a rip-roaring success, and my deepest thanks for your creative and skilful support. John Waine Festival Founder/Organiser Director, The Best Of Oswestry
It’s our pleasure, John. And readers can turn to p. 94 to read the winning entry for the ‘In praise of Oswestry’ poetry competition.
Good for the art
No. 1 f o r Wa l e s & t h e E n g l i s h B o r d e r C o u n t i e s
I would like to thank Country & Border Sensual in Life for featuring me and my artwork in Shropshire your Country Creations section. War time in Wales Your magazine is of high quality, with beautiful illustrations, photographs and editorial, so I was Where red kites dare very proud to be your artist of the month in your February issue. My picture of ‘Winter at Mere, Cheshire’, which was of a man covering a barge to be laid up for the winter, was noticed by a gentleman who wished to buy the painting. The response to the article was very good indeed and I would like to take this opportunity to thank you very much, both for the feature and the sale of my painting. February 2010
WIN!
Discover the region’s most romantic Valentine’s Day walks
Meals for two up for grabs
Childhood memories of life in rural mid Wales during the Second World War
In the headlights
My friend and I were returning to Bishop’s Castle from Ynyslas Point last autumn when we saw in front of us a grey heron on the brow of the hill with a fish! We stopped to see what would happen next (with hazard lights on), but unfortunately the guy behind overtook and frightened Mr Heron. We can only conclude he was flying home when he dropped his fish and returned to pick it up. I have never been so close to a heron before and he appeared not to be afraid of us. It’s a sight I’ll never forget. Gaynor Richardson, Hoar Cross, Staffordshire
Our resident wildlife expert, Daniel Butler, has an explanation: The sight, while unusual, is probably due to the size of the fish. Most birds can only carry comparatively small loads – say 25 percent of their body weight. Although a heron looks huge, an average bird weighs just 1.5kg so would be incapable of flying far with even a moderately sized fish. As a result, they feed predominately on small fish and amphibians that are swallowed on the spot. But they’re great opportunists, and will take larger prey when it presents itself. This would normally be eaten on site, so I can only assume your heron was surprised just after it had caught its fish. It leapt into the air, but the load was too great and the bird was forced to land. He probably landed again a short distance further on.
www.cbl.org.uk
How to get up close and personal with Wales’ favourite bird of prey
PLUS! OUR A-Z OF WEDDINGS IN WALES AND THE BORDERS
Lynda Waggett, Rhyl, Denbighshire
Correction
In last month’s ‘Meet the chef’ we stated Arwel Jones was from Carmarthenshire, but he’s actually from Caernarfon. Many apologies, Arwel. We’ll brush up on our geography! And the winners are... Thanks to all of you who sent in entries to our competitions in the past two issues. We have four winners to announce! Congratulations to Rachel George from Cound in Shropshire, who wins a one-night break for two in a suite at the Imperial Hotel in Llandudno, while Miss A. Mead from Cheltenham in Gloucestershire, Sarah Atherton from Gresford in Wrexham and Leah Finch from Wattlesborough in Shropshire each win a set of Dan Butler’s edible mushroom field guides.
Win silver! Write to us with your news, views, opinions and observations, and you could win a fabulous prize. Every month, the writer of our lead letter wins a £50 voucher to spend at rural silver specialists Hiho. Hiho produce a stunning array of sterling silver jewellery, lanterns and homewares – from a goat shed above a forge in the grounds of an abbey (as you do!).
Country & Border Life
Uniqueness lies at the heart of everything Hiho create, so check out their website at www.hihosilver.co.uk – and, of course, get writing, on any subject you like, be it a rural issue that’s close to your heart, an article that’s appeared in Country & Border Life, or a fellow reader’s views. Who knows, this time next month we could be crossing your palm with silver...
❊ Letters submitted to Country & Border Life may be edited for clarity or due to lack of space.
Issue 74 • £2.50
May 2010
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News & event s The best seasonal activities and latest developments across the region
Wales’ hills are alive with the sound of music As an exciting new production of The Sound of Music comes to the Venue Cymru in Llandudno this month, Country & Border Life talks to its Welsh-speaking star, Connie Fisher, about why she’s looking forward to getting back into the habit
Photos: Catherine Ashmore
Back in 2006, Connie Fisher captured the hearts of the British viewing public when she won the BBC talent show How Do You Solve a Problem Like Maria? She then spent more than a year starring as the much-loved nun in the West End revival of The Sound of Music, for which she received rave reviews, hanging up her habit in 2008 a star. Connie’s now preparing to climb every mountain and ford every stream yet again, as she returns to the stage as the Von Trapp family’s nanny. “I can’t describe the feeling when I won How do you solve a problem like Maria?,” says Connie.”It changed my life completely. And it feels great to be playing Maria again. She’s one of the
best roles out there for females in musical theatre – it was lovely to be asked to do it, although I was surprised it was so soon!” Welsh-speaking Connie says she can relate to the story and to the character of Maria, partially because of her upbringing on a Pembrokeshire farm in the hills. “I had a wonderful upbringing in South Wales,” Connie tells us, smiling. “I’m so glad we moved there and that I learned Welsh. I think it’s very beneficial to be bilingual. If I hadn’t lived in Wales I wouldn’t be where I am today, or have the confidence I have as a soloist.” Despite touring all over the country during her first run in The Sound of
In the garden Don’t miss a great opportunity to see some of the most beautiful gardens Powys has to offer, with seven locations opening their gates to the public this month. The gardens on show include: Tan-y-Llyn in Meifod; Grandma’s Garden in Machynlleth; Bodynfoel Hall and Bodfach Hall (pictured) near Llanfechain; Rowan in Leighton; Dingle Nurseries and Garden near Welshpool; and Cyfie Farm in Llanfihangel. In addition to the stunning displays of flowers and trees, there’s something different going on at each one, including art exhibitions, musical performances and charity stalls – Bodfach Hall will even be hosting a cricket match! ❋ Various dates. Various venues around Powys. For more information, visit www.ngs.org.uk 10
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NEWS & EVENTS
❋ The Sound of Music will be
showing at Llandudno’s Venue Cymru from 11th-29th May. Evenings at 7pm or 7.30pm and Thursday and Saturday matinees at 2.30pm. Ticket prices range from £15-£39.50. Venue Cymru, The Promenade, Llandudno, Conwy. Tel: 01492 872000. www.venuecymru.co.uk
Music, Connie admits it’s in Wales where she’s truly at home. Her family still lives near Barry, and she’s marrying her fiancé there later this year. “I’m a Welsh girl at heart, and even though I’ve been away for a long time I still feel it’s my home. I’ve experienced many cities and there’s nowhere I’d rather be than in Wales.” This love of all things Welsh means she’s very excited to be performing on native soil again. “Welsh audiences, and the reception they give you, are fantastic. Because I grew up in Wales I’ve found them to be very supportive
and a lot of them voted for me when I did the show,” she smiles. “In a lot of places you’re just a visiting theatre company, but in Wales they really embrace you.” Starring alongside Connie in this lavish production of the story of the Von Trapp family’s fight across the mountains in wartime Austria are British actor and singer Michael Praed as Captain Von Trapp and Marilyn Hill Smith as Mother Abess . The show, written by Rodgers and Hammerstein, is famous for including some of the
most memorable songs ever performed on stage, including My Favourite Things, Do-Re-Mi and the eponymous The Sound of Music. It’s sure to take audiences in North Wales by storm. “Llandudno’s Venue Cymru is a great place to perform,” adds Connie. “I’ve been before when I entered a youth singing competition, but it’s exciting to be returning with The Sound of Music. It’s going to be an amazing production, the cast is superb and it’s funnier than the film. When you’ve got such a good part like Maria, it’s hard to give up.”
Sweet to the core Putley will be the apple of Herefordshire’s eye this May Day bank holiday weekend as it hosts Blossomtime 2010 – an annual celebration of cider and perry – on 2nd and 3rd May. Naturally, the festival will feature plenty of stalls from local cider producers, selling sweet, dry or scrumpy varieties, but there’s also to be a number of guided walks over the two days. The walks will take you through the picturesque Herefordshire countryside, and will have varying themes – from nature trails to history to seasonal poems. Special events this year include a short talk by Mike Porter of the Marcher Apple Network, who’s launching his new Pomona (a book on apples) illustrating 31 apple varieties from the Border counties of England and Wales that have never been described previously, and the Big Apple Run – a three mile race through Putley’s picturesque apple orchards. Don’t be pipped to the post! ❋ 2nd to 3rd May. Putley, Herefordshire. www.bigapple.org.uk
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On guard!
There’s to be increased security at Chirk Castle near Wrexham from now on – not CCTV and spotlights, but two medieval guards! A bowman and a swordsman are to stand at the portcullis of the castle, giving daily tours to visitors and showing them how the guards of the Middle Ages would have lived. “It’s a great challenge,” says Huw Sayer of Ruabon, a retired schoolteacher who was recently recruited as a castle guard. “I’ve moved from classroom to castle and I’ve had to learn a lot about the period. Visitors will be able to ask me what clothes I wore, what food I ate, what I did every day and how I fought. “I intend to challenge all who want to pass to declare their allegiance – either to Edward I or Llywelyn. If they choose the wrong side they might find themselves taken to the dungeon!” ❋ Chirk Castle, Chirk, Wrexham. Tel: 01691 777701. www.nationaltrust.org.uk
Whistlestop tour of Europe A grand performance is due to take place at the Holy Trinity Church in Oswestry on 23rd May. Renowned orchestra Manchester Camerata are set to take the audience on a ‘whistle-stop’ tour of Europe with their chosen pieces: Mozart’s vivacious ‘Paris’ Symphony No. 31, Haydn’s well-loved Symphony No. 104 (written in London) and Mozart’s dramatic Piano Concerto KV 466 (written and premiered in Vienna). Two particularly acclaimed musicians are due to perform, too: the stunning young violinist Thomas Gould (pictured), who, aged just 27, is already an Associate of the Royal Academy of Music; and piano soloist Kathryn Stott, who is one of Britain’s most versatile and imaginative young musicians. ❋ Sunday 23rd May. 3pm. Holy Trinity Church, Oswestry, Shropshire. Tel: 01691 681135. www.manchester camerata.co.uk 12
May 2010
A taste of Italy The delights of Italy have arrived in Wrexham following the reopening of The Lemon Tree restaurant, hotel and bar after an intensive 10-week refurbishment. Managers Colette and Carmine De Pasquale have restored the grade II-listed building – which has gothic windows and gargoyles – giving it a distinctly Italian flavour. “The decor has changed the feel of the restaurant,” enthuses Colette. “The newlook Lemon Tree has a relaxed, comfortable atmosphere. The café-style daytime menus fit perfectly; you can read the newspapers and drink Italian coffee in continental surroundings without paying the airfare!” ❋ The Lemon Tree, 29 Rhosddu Road, Wrexham. Tel: 01978 261211. www.lemon-tree.net
Country & Border Life
NEWS & EVENTS
Folk in Chester Anniversary attractions
There’s sure to be fun on the farm as Park Hall, near Oswestry, Shropshire celebrates its 10th anniversary. The attraction has developed signficantly over the years, and now has both indoor and outdoor play activities for children, including assault courses, a Victorian school, a museum, an Iron Age Roundhouse and a collection of classic cars and motorcycles. Last year Park Hall received the coveted Farm Attraction of the Year Award from the National Farm Attractions Network. It’s always well worth a visit! ❋ Park Hall Farm, Park Hall, Oswestry, Shropshire. Tel: 01691 671123. www.parkhallfarm.co.uk
A spectacular line-up of folk acts, both new and established, is due to appear in Kelsall this month at the Chester Folk Festival (28th-31st May), with a whole host of other events taking place over the bank holiday weekend as well. Modern young folk-rockers Mawkin:Causley (pictured) – who are making a big name for themselves at folk festivals all over the country – are heading the bill, alongside returning act The Churchfitters and amazing fingerpicking guitarist Martin Simpson. Humorous poetry will be performed by Les Barker, with ceilidh dances, singarounds, displays, workshops and a craft fair, plus lots of family events and children’s entertainment – it’s sure to be fun for all folk! ❋ 28th-31st May. Kelsall, Cheshire. Tel: 07005 977045. www.chesterfolk.org.uk
Get involved The RSPB are running their summer wildlife survey, ‘Make Your Nature Count’, from 5th to 13th June, when they want as many people as possible to record the number of birds and other wildlife visiting their gardens. To take part, just spend one hour counting birds and wildlife in your garden, and record the highest number of each species seen at any one time. ❋ For further information, visit www.rspb.org.uk/ naturecount
Nature watch
Warbling Every spring several million willow warblers arrive on our shores having completed the long journey from West Africa. In woods and brambly patches across Britain they weave their domed nests, lining them with feathers and fine grasses. Their song has been described as ‘a cadence soft as summer rain’ and is heard from tree and bush, a distinctive burst of notes cascading gently away; frequently repeated. Greyish-brown olive above, paler and tinged with yellow below, willow warblers are very similar to the chiffchaff. Listen to their song though, and you’ll soon work out which it is. Willow warblers lay just one clutch of eggs a year. This makes them vulnerable to bad weather. A June downpour can ruin their breeding chances, washing out the insects they need to feed their hungry young. Despite a recent decline in numbers, the willow warbler is still our commonest summer migrant bird. Yet while the cuckoo’s song is almost universally recognised, few pick up the song of the willow warbler. With cuckoo numbers dwindling, we need other birds to herald each new season. Willow warblers are showering the world with song right now – catch it while it lasts. Sarah Bierley, Shropshire Wildlife Trust, www.shropshirewildlifetrust.org.uk Country & Border Life
A festival thriller The celebrated Welsh classical crossover singer Katherine Jenkins will be performing at the opening night of Llangollen’s International Musical Eisteddfod (5th-11th July). “It’s such a thrill to be back at Llangollen,” says Katherine. “I really can’t wait to step out on that stage once again and to be a part of this fantastic festival!” As always, the event has a stunning line-up, including the extraordinary Karl Jenkins, who will be conducting his own ‘Mass for Peace’ to Sinfonia Cymru, while violin and viola virtuoso Nigel Kennedy will perform with his full orchestra and band. Other highlights include Only Men Aloud and the international competitions. “With this year’s line up the Llangollen 2010 programme is possibly stronger than ever,” says Mervyn Cousins, festival director. ❋ The Llangollen International Musical Eisteddfod, 5th-11th July. Tel: 01978 862001. www.llangollen2010.co.uk
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Ludlow’s striking 900-year-old castle dominates the area, which features around 500 listed buildings 32
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Country & Border Life
Ludlow
Move to...
Adjacent to the stunning Shropshire Hills, Ludlow is a vibrant historical town that puts an emphasis on food, culture and country living Words: Will Harris Pictures: © Crown Copyright Visit Wales
i
Credit: Shropshire Tourism
n the centre of the Welsh Marches in south shropshire, surrounded by hills and valleys and above the tranquil river teme, sits the historic market town of Ludlow. its striking 900-year-old castle dominates the area, which features around 500 listed buildings. in 2003, Ludlow became the UK’s first Cittaslow or ‘slow town’, a place recognised for preserving the local environment, promoting quality of life and committed to treating visitors as temporary residents. such a positive outlook on living is just one of the reasons why you might want to make your visit to Ludlow a permanent one. This month, we focus on the town’s many attractions.
Country & Border Life
CharaCter and history
The town’s recorded history begins in 1086, not long after the arrival of William the Conqueror, when Ludlow Castle was built as one of a line of castles along the Marches to keep out the Welsh. a town was planned at the castle gate soon afterwards, and in the late 12th and early 13th centuries the castle was extended and then town walls were built. Before 1138, Ludlow was known as ‘Lodelowe’. The river teme once had rapids, so the ‘hlud’ of Ludlow came from ‘the loud waters’ while ‘hlaw’ meant hill. Thus Ludlow was ‘a place on the hill by a loud river’. The original medieval street layout survives to this day, and Ludlow has character to match its history. of the many half-timbered buildings, the Feathers hotel is the most striking – a rare example of Jacobean architecture. other buildings of note include the former grammar school founded in 1282, now a sixth form college, and st Laurence’s Parish Church, one of the largest in the country with parts dating back to pre-15th century; this is also the place where the ashes of poet a.e. housman (author of A Shropshire Lad) were buried.
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HONEY BEES
A hive of activity
The future of our honey bee is hanging in the balance. But a Shropshire wildlife hero and residents of a village in North Wales are just some of the people across Wales and the Borders busy fighting to save the hive WORDS: CHARLOTTE VAN PRAAGH
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A
benevolent buzzing can be heard as a collection of bees – a mass of blurred golden and black stripes – hover around the hive. While many of them remain inside, busy producing the sweet substance they are so famous for, others take flight into the verdant countryside surrounding their little colony, in search of trees and flowers to pollinate, so they might fulfil their vital role. “You approach the hive and open it up, and this wonderful smell of honey and the propolis – the stuff they stick the hive together with – rises from the hive and the bees are flying around you and you can see them all clearly. There’s nothing like it,” says Tony Gray, a self-professed bee fanatic. From several acres of land just outside the market town of Oswestry in Shropshire, he runs the aptly named Fragile Planet. The company specialises in beekeeping equipment and, more recently, Adopt-A-Hive. This enables people to buy a share of a honey bee hive to help combat the very real problem of the plummeting bee population in this country. “After we set up Fragile Planet back in 2006, we had lots of people saying they wanted to help the bees but didn’t actually want to keep them themselves,” explains Tony, who recently
received The Green Organisation’s prestigious ‘Individual Store Gold’ Green Apple Award for environmental best practice in retail from Dr David Bellamy. “As a result we set up Adopt-A-Hive, where people get a share of a bee hive and can come along and see how it’s doing. And the hive will then go on to produce more bees and we’ll get more bee colonies going in the UK. Then, hopefully, we can develop more local bees from it – that’s the plan behind it.” Falling bee populations have been of great concern in recent years, and the problem is escalating. Habitat loss, disease and pesticides have played a huge part in this, as well as recent wet summers and unusually cold winters. The number of bumblebees in the UK has declined by around 70 percent since the 1970s and honey bees by up to 15 percent in the past two years, according to official Government figures. This sudden decline has been blamed on intensive farming techniques, climate change and a mysterious condition known as Colony Collapse Disorder – when a hive’s occupants suddenly disappear. It could cause serious problems for agriculture and food production, since bees are essential to pollinate many plants. Already major organisations have called for research into the problem and the Government has invested £10 million to tackle the decline in bees and other pollinator insects like butterflies. “In the 1950s there were about 50,000 beekeepers and about 200,000 or more colonies, according to the British Beekeepers’ Association. Now there are only 10,000 beekeepers,” Tony tells us, shaking his head. “That’s the situation we’re in. And it’s a double whammy, because there are the problems bees have and problems finding sites for them because people are afraid of being stung. People also have smaller gardens and don’t have room for them. Basically, they’re being squeezed from all directions. “The biggest problem we’ve had over the past few years is habitat loss – 92 percent of the wildflower meadows in the UK have vanished, so we have to do things ourselves now to keep bees going,” he continues. “The main disease is called varroa – that was man’s fault again. It’s a parasite from the Asian bee (Apis cerana), a slightly bigger species than the European bee (Apis mellifera). They put hives of the European bee next to the hives of the Asian bee and the parasite jumped species. The parasite doesn’t kill the cerana
Bee fanatic Tony Gray, the managing director of Fragile Planet (above and right). Top: honey bees at work (left) and a bumblebee on lavender
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HONEY BEES
Adopt-A-Hive Help start a new bee colony by buying a year-long, one-twelfth share in a hive in Oswestry. In return, you’ll receive a special shareholder certificate, some flower seeds to attract more bees to your garden and 1lb of honey. Plus you’ll get regular updates on how the bees are doing and can even go to visit them. Adopt a share in a hive for £29.99, or adopt an entire hive for £350. For more details, tel: 01691 672869 or visit www.adoptahive.co.uk
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T
he coastal castles of Wales are an ‘international’ affair. Whilst they were built on Welsh land by an English King, the architect of these imposing buildings was James of St George d’Esperanche, from the Savoy region of France. Perceived as one of the best castle designers in Europe, his last Welsh castle is best viewed from above. The concentric rings of Beaumaris Castle on Anglesey provide an insight into how complicated castle design had become by the 13th century. However,
they also demonstrate how determined King Edward I was to keep the Welsh under control. By 1258, Llywelyn ap Gruffydd, the last prince of an independent Wales, had pushed the English out of Gwynedd and most of Wales. It was Edward I’s predecessor, King Henry III, who ratified the Treaty of Montgomery, officially recognising Llywelyn as the Prince of Wales. When Edward I succeeded the throne, he was determined to unite Great Britain as one country, so when Llywelyn failed to
turn up at Edward’s coronation, Edward decided to take action. He successfully pushed Llywelyn and his supporting army into Snowdonia. Desperate to contain Llywelyn, Edward began to create an iron ring of castles, building fortifications at Aberystwyth, Builth Wells, Flint and Rhuddlan. Llywelyn’s brother, David, raised an army against Edward a few years later and, unsurprisingly, Llywelyn was dragged into the uprising. Determined not to be undermined, Edward launched another costly attack,
Kings of the castles
In the late 13th century, Edward I constructed a chain of defences along the Welsh coast. Today, these fortifications are among Wales’ finest castles WORDS: Simon Whaley PICTURES: Simon Whaley; © Crown Copyright Visit Wales
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COUNTRY WALKS e ventuallycrushingbothbrothersand takingcontrolofthewholeofWales. ThisenabledEdwardtocompletehis ironring,andheorderedJamesofSt Georged’Esperanchetodesignand overseetheconstructionofcastles atHarlech,Caernarfon,Beaumaris andConwy. HARLECH HARMONY Begunin1283,theremainsofthis impressivecastledemonstratethe strongconcentricdesignofcontaining
wallswithincontainingwalls.However, whatremainstodayisnotwhatthe950 workmeninthelate13thcentury finishedin1289.Theexternalouterwall wasdestroyedorseverelydamagedin 1408.Fouryearsearlier,Owain GlyndwrcapturedHarlechcastlefor theWelshafteralongsiege.Glyndwr useditashismainresidenceandeven heldaparliamenttherein1405.In 1409,PrinceHarryofMonmouth
c apturedthecastle,returningittothe Englishmonarchy,butonlyafter destroyingtheoutercurtainwallswith heavycannonballfire. Harlech,likemanycoastalcastles, wasabletosurvivelongsiegesbecause additionalsuppliescouldbebroughtin bysea.PartofHarlech’sdesign includedagatedstairway,offeringsafe passagefromthecastletotheseasome 200feetbelow.Standonitscurtain
BEAUMARIS CASTLE
HARLECH CASTLE
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CONWY CASTLE
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COUNTRY WALKS
Conwy Castle (above and below), Beaumaris Castle (right) and Harlech Castle (far right and previous page) were all designed for King Edward I by James of St George d’Esperanche as part of an iron ring of defences. Using a concentric design, each incorporates a ‘bastide’ town within its walls
walls today and it’s difficult to imagine this because retreating sea levels have meant that Harlech lost its connection with the sea many centuries ago. The castle continued to see battles throughout the 15th century during the Wars of the Roses, when it supported the Lancastrians. In 1468, a Yorkist army of 7,000 to 10,000 men attacked and eventually took the castle within a month. It is this siege that is believed to have inspired the iconic Welsh anthem Men of Harlech, although some attribute the song to the Owain Glyndwr siege of 1408. Perhaps this is why this tune has different lyrical versions!
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CONWY CIRCUIT Conwy is one of the best examples in Wales of a bastide town. Common in Europe, particularly in Gascony where Edward I also happened to be Duke, a bastide is a fortified town, or a town with a close affiliation with an adjoining castle. This means that the town and the castle are mutually reliant on each other, therefore a defensive wall would extend from the castle itself around the town. In Conwy, the city walls encircled the entire town even though the eastern boundary with the Conwy Estuary offered a natural defensive barrier. There are 21 towers along the walls, spread on average about 45 metres (150 feet) apart. Together with the walls, they offered 480 different defensive firing positions. Today, they remain one of the most complete and finest set of town walls in Europe. If you have the energy and a head for heights, it’s possible to walk along many sections of the
walls, although a complete circuit is not possible. Edward I applied strict rules to these bastide towns. They were populated with English people, who were loyal to Edward. The Welsh were only permitted entry during daylight hours, but they were not allowed to trade within the town or carry weaponry – despite the fact that a garrison town was being created alongside the castle. Work began in 1283, the same year as Harlech, but with up to 1,500 labourers working on the project, the castle and walls were completed within four years. The castle saw some action, most notably in 1295 when King Edward found himself under siege from Madog ap Llywelyn (a distant relative of Llywelyn ap Gruffydd, although just as dangerous). Owain Glyndwr successfully captured the castle in 1403, however the English regained control a few years later through a financial transaction, rather than military efforts! BEAUTIFUL BEAUMARIS Beaumaris, on the Isle of Anglesey, was the last of Edward’s chain of castles to
Country & Border Life
be built, and although James of St George d’Esperanche designed the intricate concentric ring building in 1283, work didn’t begin immediately because of the other building work going on at Harlech and Conwy. However, Madog ap Llywelyn’s uprising against the English in 1295, although unsuccessful, did encourage Edward to begin building Beaumaris and work began that same year. During the first year of construction, more than 2,700 labourers worked on the castle, which meant much was completed quickly. However, by this time, Edward was beginning to wage war on the Scots, and he needed money to pay for these battles. As a result, the main building phase ceased in 1298 and Beaumaris was never completed as per its original plans. Just like Conwy, Beaumaris was a bastide development, with
walls surrounding the castle and neighbouring town; sadly, none of the walls survive today. But to ensure that Edward’s English-filled bastide town was safe, Welsh inhabitants from the neighbouring town, Llanfaes, were moved to Newborough, more than 12 miles away! The Welsh coastal castles are some of the best examples to be found anywhere within the UK, and their huge defensive outer walls offer anyone with a head for heights an opportunity to witness some great views, too. In stark contrast to many of the English border castles, these magnificent buildings were built to withstand attacks. Of course, getting inside them today is much easier – and a far more enjoyable experience!
Harlech, like many coastal castles, was able to survive long sieges because additional supplies could be brought in by sea Country & Border Life
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Pet s&
Equestrian
Byte marks WEBSITES FOR YOU AND YOUR PET
Looking after our best friends
Newshound
Have you recently bought a rabbit or are you thinking about buying one? If so, www.fuzzy-rabbit.com is a great website for all the information you might need to care for your new pet. The site features useful guides to essential rabbit health and care, troubleshooters for common rabbit problems, explanations of various kinds of rabbit behaviour, and other general information needed for keeping your pet at its best. If you thought a rabbit was too difficult to keep indoors, there’s also tips on housetraining and rabbitproofing, as well as a forum so you can talk to other owners. A directory links to other more specific sites (including online shops and adoption agencies), so if your query is, for example, about particular breeds, you’ll be able to find it here.
Access more areas
Visitors to more of Wales’ top historic attractions will be able to bring their canine companions with them as the number of sites open to dogs is increased. Cadw, the Welsh Assembly Government’s historic environment service, has decided to extend its initiative to allow dogs on leads into a further 32 sites around Wales, after successful trials at a number of other Cadw locations. The new sites include Cymer Abbey in Gwynedd, Chepstow Castle in Monmouthshire and Derwen Churchyard Cross in Denbighshire. Those that are staffed will provide bowls of water for your dog on request (as well as doggy waste bags). “The trials at the initial sites have gone so well that we’re extending the scheme,” says Marilyn Lewis, director of Cadw. “There’s no reason why dogs should be left out when planning to explore Cadw’s fascinating heritage sites across Wales. “From castles to abbeys, we hope allowing dogs on leads to a selection of Wales’ finest historic sites will increase everyone’s enjoyment, including their pets’.” For more details and a list of Cadw dog-friendly places, visit www.cadw.wales.gov.uk
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Rabbiting on
Pet product A herbal treat
Give your horse a treat it’ll love and is good for it, too – the new Meadow Herb range from Spillers. This herbal mix comes in handy 1kg bags, and can also be bought with a number of added nutritional benefits, such as biotin to encourage healthy hoof growth or glucosamine to support
healthy joints. “Quite rightly, good health and well-being are seen as the most important aspects of care for many horse owners,” says Clare Barfoot, research and development manager at Spillers. “The option of being able to feed a treat that also has a health benefit has been met with resounding enthusiasm.” Available from all good pet stockists. Tel: 01908 226626. www.spillers-feeds.com
Country & Border Life
PETS AND EQUESTRIAN
From the horse’s mouth Jumping for joy
It’s May and that means Badminton Horse Trials – one of the toughest and most exciting events on the equestrian calendar – is here again (30th April to 3rd May). This year is particularly exciting as last year’s champion, local rider Oliver Townend (pictured) from Dudleston Heath near Ellesmere, Shropshire, is looking to defend his title ahead of the London Olympics in 2012. But there’ll be some tough competition, including Tina
Cook, the current European Three Day Event Champion, and World Champion Zara Phillips competing. The event takes place over three days. On the first day, horses and riders complete a dressage test; on the second there’s a four-mile cross country ride; and, finally, there’s a show-jumping round. With more than 85 riders competing, this year’s Badminton is lining up to be an exciting one! • 30th April to 3rd May. Badminton, Gloucestershire. Tel: 01454 218375. www.badminton-horse.co.uk
Book review New tricks
This comprehensive guide to sorting out your problem pooch has authoritative, well-written advice that would prove useful to any dog owner. Each of the 100 solutions provides a detailed analysis of the problem and effective ways to rectify it. One chapter stresses the importance of a firm foundation and another good health, while others cover at home, in the garden, and out and about. So if you have a misbehaving mutt, give this book a try – you might not be able to teach an old dog new tricks, but you can change bad habits.
100 Ways to Solve Your Dog’s Problems, Sarah Fisher and Marie Miller, ISBN 978-0715332078, RRP £12.99.
Nesting instinct Q
Every year around springtime my budgie goes crazy. I figure it’s something to do with hormones, but is there anything I can do to stop this?
A
This sounds like seasonal or nesting behaviour, which often occurs in spring but can be triggered by an abundance of water (baths or rain, for example) at any time of year. The types of behaviour change vary but can include destructive behaviour, displaying, nest making, aggression,
feather plucking, biting and vocalisation. They can also become attached to a certain person or object. This behaviour is a natural seasonal rhythm in sexually mature budgies (6-9 months old). You could try lengthening her ‘night’ time to about the same as it was in winter (10-12hrs) by putting a cover over her cage, and move her to a quiet, dark room for the night. And providing water in a bottle rather than a bowl can
help by reducing the number of baths she can take. You should also reduce the number of chewy toys, because these can encourage biting and destructive behaviour. She can always have them back once she settles down. Once the breeding season passes she’ll most likely settle back down to normal, but always contact your local vet if you’re concerned. Lucy Tubbs
PROFESSIONAL, LOCAL RELIABLE & CARING lLarge and Small Animals lVaccinations, Radiography and Ultrasound lPet Passports lFree Nurse Health Clinics lModern Diagnostic Equipment lGrooming Parlour on Site
Salop Road Oswestry SY11 2RL 01691 670067 www.parkissa.com
Life in the slow lane
With the help of the Eagles, the Harpins decide to take it easy as they hit the open road in search of coastal relaxation... aboard their very own luxury motorhome WORDS: J.R. Harpin
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WEEKEND RETREAT
N
ights spent under the stars, lungs full of fresh air and dewy grass under bare feet at dawn – all experiences I associate with that great British tradition: camping. As well as an invigorating night or two in a tent as a teenager (not necessarily on one’s own, what!), I feel qualified to write on this front, having spent much of my time in the forces marooned in desert landscapes under canvas. My hardy troops and I would go for days without washing, etiquette thrown aside as we hunkered down in the great outdoors. It’s these tales with which I regale her that seem to be alarming Mrs H as she sits at the kitchen table planning our route to a picturesque field in Pembrokeshire. Roughing it on patrol is not the type of thing she has in mind. Before you ask, no, the editor hasn’t lost her mind completely and sent her
trusty hotel reviewer off to critique a two-man tent. We’re about to drive away in our accommodation for the week: a brand new, luxurious four-berth motorhome that, I’m reliably informed, is worth almost £60,000. “And it has a shower,” Mrs H reaffirms, as I consider digging out the old camouflage. HOLIDAY WITH A DIFFERENCE It’s all down to the enterprising Dave Ward of Horizon Motor Homes in Gledrid near Chirk, Wrexham. Over the past six months, Dave has turned his dream of owning a fleet of camper vans and motorhomes into a reality. And his new business venture has captured the imagination of families and couples who want a British holiday with a difference. A choice of two, four and six-berth homes for hire await, as well as Volkswagen four-berth camper vans. Most are new or just a few months old,
given that they’re put up for sale at the end of each holiday season. When we arrive at the Gledrid premises, there’s some trepidation from Mrs H concerning the prospect of driving “such a monster”. But when you’ve seen action with the Royal Tank Regiment, this is nothing. I’m actually quite excited about the prospect of the open road, looking down from a great height on other road users. And as I first set eyes on the sleek, white vehicle in all its shiny glory, I’m even more eager to get going in the beauty! After a quick tour of our new home and a run down on how to use the heating, air conditioning, satellite TV, gas, plus the electric ‘hook up’ (a term we’re to become most familiar with), we park the old jalopy and return home to pack and pick up Molly the dog. Arriving, much to the consternation of the neighbours, we undertake a
When you’ve seen action with the Royal Tank Regiment, this is nothing. I’m actually quite excited about the prospect of the open road Country & Border Life
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The four-berth E660 has a comfortable fixed double bed – so no messing around with spare cushions
quick turnaround. The good lady packs my tweeds and waterproofs in the deceptively spacious cupboards above the bed, while I’m in charge of supplies. I fill the fridge with all life’s essentials: Chardonnay, Shiraz, Gordon’s, tonic,
The oven is easy to use, and there’s a gas hob with an electric ring plus microwave
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olives and three packs of free-range bacon. Talk about a masterclass in space planning. As for Molly the delinquent hound, she bounds up the steps, jumps on the bed, knocks everything over in her path before collapsing on the seat directly behind the driver’s chair. And then we’re off, heading down the A483 towards Welshpool, before turning right, cutting through the beautiful Cambrian mountains, headed for the Welsh coast. EASY DRIVER Mrs H needn’t have worried about driving the thing. Built by the British company Bessacarr, on the body of a Fiat Ducato van, it’s a piece of cake – much the same as driving a large 4x4. I’ll not normally have a bad word said about the old jalopy but, if truth be told, the smooth, powerful, six-speed engine and comfortable seats are a welcome change from the sputtering, throaty engine of the old girl. What’s more, you have everything you need
right behind you. And instead of a motorway service station, we stop halfway at the Red Kite centre near Aberystwyth. With the sky teeming with these beautiful birds of prey in the shadow of the stunning Welsh mountains, we really start to relax and enjoy the whole motorhome experience. Not something I expected to be saying so soon, I must admit. After a cup of tea and a sandwich, and a quick visit to the little boy’s room – all without setting foot outside – we’re off again, and within a couple of hours we reach our destination: Newport – not the built-up one near Cardiff, but the Pembrokeshire coastal town where we’ve spent many a holiday, albeit usually in a rented cottage. It’s early March and the nighttime temperatures are forecast to be well below freezing, so it’s no surprise that when we reach our chosen caravan site, we have an entire field to ourselves. And what a field. It has to be one of the most beautiful locations I’ve ever seen,
Country & Border Life
WEEKEND RETREAT PRACTICALITIES
A view of Newport Sands from the bedroom window
with Newport Bay and the sands stretching out between the stunning cliffs of the coastline. Making full use of the adaptability of our accommodation, I park up strategically to make the most of the surroundings such that, come morning, we’ll wake to the sight of the sea from our bedroom window, while Carn Ingli mountain high above the town will be in full view as we sit down for breakfast. The site costs £20 per night, and we later find out from a fellow caravanner (hark at us!) down the local pub that this is quite expensive. But when you consider what you’d pay for a hotel room with such a view, we’re not complaining. Aside from the view, it’s a two-minute walk through a field to connect with the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, and within walking distance of a number of pubs, restaurants and stores in the town. Perfect. As we hook up to the electric (in effect, you plug the motorhome into an electric socket on site), power is switched from battery to mains and everything sparks back into life. The novelty of being able to turn the front seats round to face the inside of the home doesn’t look like it’ll ever wear off, either, as I spin the driver’s seat round to greet Mrs H, who is pouring me a well-deserved G&T after the drive. With the Eagles on the stereo and the sun dipping down behind the cliffs, it
feels like the holiday has really begun. “Do you know, there’s no place I’d rather be right now,” I tell Mrs H. But she’s in full nesting mode and about to head off to the shops with Molly before they close. Half an hour later, she’s back in time to raise an eyebrow as I polish off the last of the olives, before revealing a basket replete with two fillet steaks from the local butchers, which, we’re reliably informed, are from a local farm specialising in Welsh beef. COOKING ON GAS The cooker is easy to use – well, so I’m told. As well as a gas hob running off two calor gas bottles stored onboard, there’s an electric ring to share the load, plus an oven and a microwave. So, not surprisingly, dinner is a triumph, made even better by the comfy dining area – even if Molly does take up half the seating. A couple of glasses of Shiraz later and we cosy up in the surprisingly spacious fixed bed. No need to grapple with the cushions of a sofabed here. After a fabulous night’s sleep, we’re awoken by bursts of warm sunlight through the large picture window beside the bed. The sunrise is even more spectacular than the sunset the night before, and already at 7am we can see dog walkers on the beach. It’s far too nice a day to lie in bed, so we head straight for the beach before breakfast, with Molly jumping excitedly at our
The beauty of a motorhome is you can go anywhere in the country, and it is a wonderful way of exploring Wales and the Borders, particularly the coast. As the vehicles are quite large, it’s wise to find and book your caravan site before you go. Visit www.caravansitefinder.co.uk or www.ukcampsite.co.uk, which have thousands of caravan and campsite details, sorted by region with links and online booking forms. Most good caravan sites have on site showers and washing facilities, waste disposal units for chemical toilets and general water waste. With a motorhome, it is essential that you find a site that offers electric power, commonly referred to as ‘hook up’.
The Harpins ‘abode’: a four-berth British Bessacar E660
heels. The sky is a bright, cloudless blue, yet there’s frost on the ground, making for a fresh and invigorating morning’s saunter. Newport Sands has to be one of my favourite places in the world, and it’s at its best before 8am. After an hour’s walk we’re back at the motorhome enjoying bacon sandwiches and the Sunday papers. It’s all surprisingly relaxing, and even Mrs H
With the Eagles on the stereo and the sun dipping down behind the cliffs, it feels like the holiday has really begun Country & Border Life
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WEEKEND RETREAT seems to be warming to life in the great outdoors. To be fair, the showers have been a concern for her, as those on site lack any heating. However, so long as you’re prepared to refill the motorhome’s tank with water every couple of days – a simple procedure at a campsite, it turns out – there’s plenty onboard for daily showers. What’s more, the water is piping hot and the wet-room design is very clever. SATELLITE SITUATION Refreshed and ready to face the day, we stroll into Newport for a lunchtime drink and then it’s back for the Six Nations, which I’ve been looking forward to for days. At which point, disaster strikes. For some reason, despite the huge satellite that rises out of the roof at the touch of a button Thunderbirds-style, we can’t get the TV to work. With kick-off fast approaching, I’m in a panic. Some might call it a strop. But Mrs H keeps a calm head. Even though it’s a Sunday afternoon, Horizon are on standby to help and Roly, back at the office, talks us through everything on the mobile. Turns out the remote controls were fighting each other, and remote controls have never been my forte. Not since the Royal Tank Regiment introduced them on one of their vehicles and I reversed into a general’s tent. But that’s another
story. For now it’s time to sit back and enjoy 80 minutes of sporting triumph. Or not, as it transpires. Damned Frenchies! The fact that I got to watch the match at all was a bonus, though. The service from Horizon really is impeccable. They do everything they can to make the holiday run smoothly, and over the course of the next few days we begin to fall in love with the gypsy lifestyle. Blessed with sunshine all week, we spend most of the time exploring the beautiful Pembrokeshire Coast Path, and Molly makes herself at home straight away. In fact, hiring a motorhome is the perfect holiday for dog owners, and Princess would’ve loved this as a six-year-old, too. Sadly, it’s over all too quickly and we prepare to head home. It’s a great feeling not having to pack. Just unplug the electric and drive away. I must say there’s a real sense of freedom to it all, being in charge of your own destiny in a motorhome. I can certainly understand now why they’re becoming so popular. Hours later, parked outside our house at 10pm, it’s hard to leave our new home. So we don’t. With the heating off for a week, the cottage is freezing so we decide to climb back aboard, pour a glass or two of wine, turn up the heat and put the Eagles back on the stereo for that peaceful, easy feeling.
RATES Country & Border Life hired a fourberth luxury motorhome, a British Bessacar E660 on a Fiat chassis, which costs from £650 to £875 per week depending on the season. Five and six-berth vehicles are also available for hire, as well as VW camper vans. All vehicles can also be hired for three nights from Friday to Monday and four nights from Monday to Friday from £375. The Bessacar E660 has flat screen satellite TV, awning, gas cooker with one electric ring on the hob, double bed, two single beds, shower, toilet and removable carpets, and more. • For more information call 01691 770770, visit or drop in to Horizon Motor Homes, June House, Gledrid Industrial Park, Chirk, Wrexham LL14 5DG. www.horizon-motorhomes.com
A motorhome is a great base from which to explore trails such as the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
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