Autumn 2018
THE
JOURNAL T H E M A G A Z I N E O F V O YA G E S T O A N T I Q U I T Y ’ S O D Y S S E Y C L U B
EXPLORING BYZANTINE ART Robin Cormack discovers the hidden treasures
THE ART OF NORWAY Going beyond ‘The Scream’
PASSENGER PERSPECTIVE Seasoned VTA cruise lover Judith Cocker shares her experiences
CITY GUIDE: COPENHAGEN The fascinating ‘Capital of Hygge’
The Amber Fort, Jaipur
Welcome to The Journal In our third edition of The Journal, we are able to celebrate a season of many firsts for Voyages to Antiquity. From cruising through gorgeous Norwegian fjords to embarking and disembarking passengers at Tower Bridge in the very heart of London, arguably the most iconic and famous cruise port in the world. We were very grateful to the son of one of our team in Oxford for capturing the graceful moment Aegean Odyssey glided under that famous bridge as she set off on her Round Britain cruise, basking in the glorious evening sun. I hope you enjoy your read, which contains various articles written by experts and friends, and of course, news and updates about our unique cruise line, to keep you very much a close part of our growing family. On a personal note, I am absolutely delighted that we have once again been nominated for two British Travel Awards this year and I would dearly ask, if you consider us worthy, that you cast your vote. There are some wonderful prizes to be won and we would treasure the chance to once again be voted, ‘Best Small Ships Cruise Line’ and/or ‘Best Specialist Cruise Line’ for 2018. Lastly, we are currently finalising our most exciting India, Asia and Africa programme. A number of these cruises now have very limited or no availability, including the Reunion cruise, so if you are still considering travelling, please do book quickly to secure your place. Happy travels!
Jos Dewing, Managing Director
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IN THIS ISSUE 3 4-6 7-9 10-12 13 14-15 16-17
NEWS EXPLORING BYZANTINE ART Robin Cormack discovers the hidden treasures
THE ART OF NORWAY Stella Grace Lyons goes beyond “The Scream’
TIMELESS TRAVELS Fiona Richards reviews European Connoisseur
PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION Submit your best and win!
MY ODYSSEY A passenger’s perspective
CITY GUIDE: COPENHAGEN The lowdown on Denmark’s fascinating capital
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THE GRAND ODYSSEY
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ASK THE EXPERTS Travel insurance
20-21 MEET THE EXECUTIVE CHEF 22
MEET THE TEAM Daryl Gomm, Reservations
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FROM THE CRUISE DIRECTOR
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2018/19 CRUISE PROGRAMME
NEWS
NEWS Aegean Odyssey visits the Pool of London
ODYSSEY CLUB REUNION CRUISE
ISLANDS OF THE INDIAN OCEAN & SOUTH AFRICA Colombo to Cape Town 10 February 2019, 33 days from £6,450 Save up to £5,000 per cabin The islands of the Indian Ocean are pictureperfect visions of paradise and no fewer than five are included on our unmissable cruise to Cape Town, which begins on the teardrop-shaped island of Sri Lanka, once known as the ‘Isle of Serendipity’.
Aegean Odyssey enjoyed yet another first in July after completing an incredible river cruise along the Thames in England, to arrive in the heart of London within a stone’s throw of the iconic Tower Bridge. Nowadays this world-famous Victorian span is rarely raised for ships, but on Sunday 22nd July at 8:15am Aegean Odyssey was allowed to pass beneath its bascules to dock side-by-side with HMS Belfast, which has permanent residency on the river and is a floating museum. HMS Belfast is prized as one of the most unique embarkation and disembarkation points in the world. For passengers completing the first of our 2018 Iceland cruises, stepping ashore via the World War II gunship was another once in a lifetime part of their voyage, with some ready to enjoy an optional two night post-cruise hotel stay in the centre of London. Passengers joining our 2018 circumnavigation of the British Isles were also able to board Aegean Odyssey via HMS Belfast to enjoy the same spectacular views of London as Tower Bridge was raised again for her transit back along the Thames, making for an unforgettable start to a voyage that also included a terrific on-board SailAway party.
Nominees in the British Travel Awards 2018 and Wave Awards 2019 Having won in 2017, Voyages to Antiquity has once again been nominated for ‘Best Small Ships Cruise Line’ and ‘Best Specialist Cruise Line’ at the prestigious British Travel Awards (BTAs) in 2018, making it two years and two nominations in a row. The BTAs are considered the benchmark for excellence in travel, with the winner determined by a public voting system that remains open until 30 September 2018. To vote for us, please visit www.britishtravelawards.com. Voyages to Antiquity has also been nominated for ‘Favourite Ocean Cruise Line’ at the next Wave Awards, where once more the decision will be made by a public voting system. This follows a double win for ‘Best for Enrichment’ at the Wave Awards in 2016 and 2017. Voting remains open until 31 December 2018. WINNER To vote for us, please visit www.worldofcruising.co.uk/vote
After boarding Aegean Odyssey in the capital Colombo, the cruise includes sublime temples or the playful orphaned elephants of Pinnawala, a beach barbeque on the beautiful sandy beaches of the Maldives, the floral treasures of the Seychelles, delightful Mauritius and remote Reunion Island, a tiny corner of France in the southern hemisphere. Passengers will also enjoy safari adventures in South Africa, at two of the country’s best game reserves, learn more about the Zulu nation in Durban, and spend three nights in the stunning city of Cape Town.
EXCLUSIVE EVENTS FOR ODYSSEY CLUB MEMBERS Creole Folklore Show on Reunion Island Music and dance have long been the embodiment of the Creole identity. This mesmerising folkloric show will include a remarkable blend of African and European music known as Sega, and the African-influenced Maloya, which has its roots in slave chants and work songs. Farewell Cocktails and Local Entertainment at the Castle of Good Hope, Cape Town Extensively restored in the 1980s, this 17th-century castle is the oldest surviving building in South Africa and is considered the best example of a Dutch East Indian fort in the world.
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Exploring
Byzantine Art
Monreale, Sicily
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BYZANTINE ART
Robin Cormack is an art historian specialising in Mediterranean art, particularly from Antiquity and Byzantium but also from the Renaissance. He teaches in the Classics Faculty at the University of Cambridge, and has given lectures at the National Gallery of Art, Washington D.C. and the Universities of California in Los Angeles and Santa Barbara.
“Sailing to Byzantium�.To do this became a romantic ideal in the poetry of W B Yeats. But despite this popular poem, the word Byzantine is still most often used today to evoke the obscure, the remote and over-complicated. Wrongly, I believe,Yeats was absolutely right to be dazzled by the golden treasures and mosaics of Byzantine art. As someone who has for many years as a University lecturer taught the art history of Antiquity and Byzantium, I believe that it is only by visiting monuments and churches around the Mediterranean that we can unravel the nature and power of Byzantine art, by seeing how Byzantine artists managed to develop and transform the art of Antiquity. Whereas Greek and Roman art had strived to represent the world as one, full of Gods who were shown as living presences influencing everyday life, Byzantine art wanted to convey a monotheistic Christian world of certain and unchanging truths. In Homer, the hero Odysseus is helped and guided by the goddess Athena, who is both immortal but at the same time full of human emotions. The aim of Byzantine art was equally religious, but the artists
evoked in their imagery the story of the life of Christ on earth, and the promise of an eternal and unchanging paradise for Christians after death. They wanted this imagery to be clear and not be weakened by ephemeral artistic fashions. So, over the centuries, Byzantine art changes very little and icons retain their original visual power for passing generations. To define and explain this is the aim of my Oxford book Byzantine Art, which has now appeared in a second enlarged edition (signed copies to be given away). The historical politics of Byzantium are easily set out. In 330, the Roman emperor Constantine the Great converted Rome into a Christian empire and renamed the city of Byzantium on the Bosporus both as Constantinople and as New Rome. The Christian art of the new capital, which we now call Byzantine art, dominated the art of the Mediterranean for centuries. The best of this is found not just in Istanbul, the modern name for Constantinople, and in Rome, but in many of the places that Aegean Odyssey visits: San Marco in Venice, in the churches of Thessaloniki, at Palermo and Monreale in Sicily and even in the mihrab of the Great Mosque at Cordoba. But for me the most thrilling
Cordoba, Spain
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BYZANTINE ART of all buildings with Byzantine mosaics is the monastery of Hosios Loukas in central Greece, near Delphi. A number of Mediterranean voyages will give you the opportunity to visit the strenuous site of Delphi, with its good museum, or go on the drive to the remote monastery of Hosios Loukas. For me the choice is easy, the scenic site on the slopes of Mount Helicon never fails to impress. The monastery is dedicated to its founder who was not the evangelist St Luke, but a 10th-century hermit who was born at Delphi and claimed, like the oracle there, to have foresight of the future. This new St Luke was sainted after his death in 953 and given the title of Hosios – the Venerable, and the first church was built. The monastery was extended in the middle of 11th-century with a new larger church, decorated with the mosaics which are still well preserved (except in the dome).Vast numbers of medieval pilgrims came to the site and worshipped at his tomb. They prayed and slept in the galleries and many of the sick were miraculously healed there. The abbots were buried in the crypt, still fully decorated with 11thcentury wall paintings, which copy the mosaics, but notably add more narrative details and look more decorative. The special feature of the mosaics in the church, which show the Passion of Christ as well as dozens of monastic saints, is that they depict the holy figures against a background of gold and are focused starkly on the essential features of the stories. This is one of the most perfect moments in Byzantine art.
The Monastery at Hosios Loukas
VOYAGES TO GREECE A number of Mediterranean 2019 voyages will be visiting locations displaying excellent examples of Byzantine art, here are a few examples below. Classical Greece & Islands of the Aegean Athens back to Athens 22 April 2019 13 days from £2,345
Voyages to Antiquity have ten copies of Robin’s Byzantine Art book to give away to the first ten passengers to book an upcoming cruise. When you make a booking please quote ‘Byzantine Art’ to be in with a chance of receiving a signed copy prior to your voyage departure date.
Renaissance Italy & Historic Islands Rome to Seville 23 May 2019 17 days from £3,250 Dalmatia & Ancient Greece Venice to Athens 19 September 2019 13 days from £2,495
Thessaloniki
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For more information, please call our Reservations team on 01865 951310.
NORWAY 2019
The Art of Norway Stella Grace Lyons gained her BA in the History of Art with a First in her dissertation from the University of Bristol, and her MA in History of Art at the University of Warwick. She spent a year studying Renaissance art in Italy at the British Institute of Florence, and three months studying Venetian art in Venice. Stella is a freelance Art History lecturer and speaker accredited with The Arts Society (previously NADFAS). In June and July of this year Stella travelled with Voyages to Antiquity on the company’s inaugural cruise to the Norwegian fjords. In this article she reflects on a nation that has sometimes been overlooked when it comes to the world of art.
View from Stalheim by J C Dahl
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NORWAY 2019
rest of Europe into a terrified frenzy. There was no way they were going to risk setting foot in those snowy wastelands! Even as late as the 20th century this opinion had endured, confirmed by the exclusion of the Scandinavian countries in Kenneth Clark’s seminal ‘Civilisation’. At last, however, this view is changing and Norway’s art is being considered worthy of study; evident by the National Gallery of London’s decision in 2014 to hold a one-man exhibition of the dramatic works of Norwegian painter Peder Balke.
Stella admires Munch’s Madonna
Norway is not known for its art. In fact, there is only one Norwegian artist who has achieved celebrity status: Edvard Munch. Even he is only really remembered for a single image depicting a tormented figure surrounded by a flame-licked landscape, ‘The Scream’. But, as I discovered on my first cruise lecturing for Voyages to Antiquity, those who enjoy art will almost certainly enjoy a cruise to Norway. Why? Because it’s a country that is incredibly visually stimulating. Every moment spent cruising the fjords, I witnessed beauty; from immense mountains, to deep green lakes, verdant forests filled with wildflowers, and the most crystalline rivers I’ve ever seen. Stepping out onto the deck was like being engulfed in a panoramic landscape painting. With such inspirational beauty at every turn, why has Norway been viewed as an artistic backwater? It all stems from the Renaissance, when Scandinavia had a reputation as a frozen wilderness filled with witches and terrifying creatures. This was largely due to a text written by a well-meaning Swedish priest, Olaus Magnus, who in 1555 wrote a monumental tome entitled, ‘History of the Northern Peoples’. His book included detailed woodcut illustrations and his hope was that he could educate Europe about the customs and history of the Nordic people. Instead, Olaus mentioned one sea monster too many; the text and its accompanying illustrations sent the 8
The beauty of a cruise to Norway for art lovers is that there is still a wealth of artistic gems to discover. Most of these paintings were produced during the 19th-century, Norway’s artistic ‘Golden Age’. A great range of these can be seen in Bergen, at the KODE gallery. Split across several buildings is a spectacular collection of Norwegian paintings; from iconic, vast landscapes by the Norwegian nationalist artist JC Dahl who, through painting, explored what it meant to be Norwegian, to the bright colours of Midsummer bonfires and celebrations of folk-life painted by Nikolai Astrup. The highlight of the National Museum of Art in Oslo was the Munch room, which included ‘The Scream’ as well as my personal favourite, the sensual ‘Madonna’. The gallery also held room after room of mystical images depicting the midnight sun that Scandinavia is so famous for. In Norway, the group of artists dedicated to painting this light were known as the Fleskum colony, but similar groups existed in all the Scandinavian countries. In Denmark, it was the Skagen painters, who were devoted to painting the blue, translucent summer light as it merged with the sea. Voyages to Antiquity’s guests will be able to look at these magical artworks next year when visiting Norway in June and July. Both the ‘Land of the Midnight Sun’ and the ‘Norwegian Fjords’ cruises include a visit to Copenhagen, home to some brilliant paintings by the Skagen artists. If landscape paintings are not your cup of tea, then look out for the works of one of my favourite Danish painters, Vilhelm Hammershoi, in
Hardangerfjord
Copenhagen. The silent, poetic interiors of his home in the Christianshavn district of the city are enchanting. He even makes an empty, dust-filled room beautiful, as is apparent in his painting ‘Dust Motes Dancing in the Sunbeams’, which hangs in the Ordrupgaard Museum. Whatever gallery you decide to visit, you will notice they all have one thing in common: there’s not a sea monster in sight.
Colourful houses in Bergen
NORWAY 2019
VOYAGES TO NORWAY If you would like to visit the galleries in Bergen, Oslo or Copenghagen below are two suggested voyages.
Land of the Midnight Sun London to Copenhagen 18 June 2019 16 days from £2,995
The Norwegian Fjords Copenhagen to London 16 July 2019 15 days from £2,995
For more information, please call our Reservations team on 01865 951310 Astrup’s Midsummer Eve Bonfire from 1915
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THE ATLANTIC COAST
TIMELESS TRAVELS
Dr Fiona Richards, Editor-in-Chief of Timeless Travels Magazine, recalls her voyage on the European Connoisseur cruise, travelling from Seville to Bordeaux in June 2018.
Santiago de Compostela
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THE ATLANTIC COAST I had been invited to join Aegean Odyssey and I can’t deny it, this was my very first cruise and I was excited. One of the reasons I was so keen to join the ship was her itinerary, as we were visiting several cities I’d always wanted to explore, including Seville, Lisbon, Oporto, Santiago de Compostela and Bordeaux. Our cruise started in Seville and our tour began at the wonderful Plaza de Espana, built for an expo in 1929, before carrying on to the Alcazar and the old town. Wandering through the picturesque narrow streets and small squares of the old city, as you weave your way to the Alcazar, it’s easy to see why so many people fall in love with Seville. It has such a lovely atmosphere and the Alcazar, built by Ferdinand in 1248, is a wonderful blend of Moorish and Christian architecture, as Ferdinand was apparently a fan of the former. It makes for a stunning building. Don’t miss the Cathedral nearby either. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and inside the Cathedral is the magnificent tomb of Christopher Columbus and his son Diego. Our Lisbon tour started bright and early. Although the city has much to see, my favourite sites were out at Belem, on the southwestern limit of the city. Here you will find the magnificent Cathedral, Torre de Belem, Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, the Monument to the Discoveries, which has one of my favourite things, a large map and timeline of Portuguese history on the ground. Do visit the Antiga Confeitaria de Belem too, if you have time. Located just two minutes from the Cathedral, it is one of the oldest bakeries in Lisbon and the first to produce the well-known Portuguese custard tart, or pasteis de nata.
Plaza de Espana, Seville
Alcazar Palace, Seville
Railway Station, Oporto
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THE ATLANTIC COAST I was keen to visit Oporto as I had read much about it and seen the pictures of those brightly coloured houses next to the harbour. I explored on my own in the morning as there is a famous bookshop here that I wanted to find, the Livraria Lello, which was used by J.K. Rowling as the inspiration for the library in the Harry Potter books. In the afternoon, I met up with the tour from the ship and we visited the Romanesque Cathedral, the gorgeous 19th-century Stock Exchange Palace, complete with its stunning Arab Room, before crossing the river for a spot of port tasting. A great day! Another favourite day was our visit to Santiago de Compostela. We drove through lush green countryside from the port of Vigo to the city and then spent the morning exploring the Cathedral and its backstreets. It was wonderful watching all the pilgrims cheer each other as they arrived in Plaza do Obradoiro after completing their Camino Way walks. Lunch today was in a glorious hotel called The Parador de Santiago, also situated on the Plaza do Obradoiro. The hotel was built as a hospital in 1499 to accommodate pilgrims travelling to Santiago. It has four cloisters and we ate in one of its beautiful rooms with high ceilings that used to be a chapel.
Lisbon Old Town
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Our visit to Bordeaux coincided with its tall ships festival, which just added to the excitement of visiting a town with such splendid architecture. Eleanor of Aquitaine married Louis VII in the beautiful St Andrew’s Cathedral here, and our itinerary included the Palais Rohan and Grand Theatre de Bordeaux. Bordeaux also has a fine art gallery to visit in your spare time, as well as the stunning Musee d’Aquitaine, which covers Bordeaux’s history from the Stone Age to the modern day, so do try and squeeze in a visit if you are a history buff. I loved my first cruise because it was so easy to visit all these cities – and that is the joy of being on such a small ship – they can get closer to the city centres than the larger ones. The other thing I loved was returning ‘home’ each day, putting my bags in the cabin and then sitting out on deck, with a well-earned cocktail, as I shared the day’s experiences with my new friends. Timeless Travels Magazine specialises in combining travel with history, archaeology and art. A quarterly publication, you can find out more at www.timeless-travels.co.uk. If you love travel, history, art or archaeology, this is the magazine for you!
Bordeaux
VOYAGES THROUGH EUROPE To follow in Fiona’s footsteps Voyages to Antiquity will be sailing between Seville and Bordeaux on the following 2019 cruises: European Connoisseur – Odyssey Club Reunion Cruise Seville to London 4 June 2019 15 days from £2,595 The Three Rivers London to Lisbon 14 August 2019 15 days from £2,695 For more information, please call our Reservations team on 01865 951310
PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION
Click and Win! Send in your photographs from a Voyages to Antiquity cruise and be in with a chance of winning a £100 Amazon voucher. You could find your photograph in a future edition of The Journal (exclusive to Odyssey Club members). The competition will be judged by renowned photographer Andrew Maclear, known for photographing bands such as The Beatles in the 1960s. Entries must be received by Friday 7 December 2018, and the winner will be announced in January 2019. All competition entries must be emailed to: Journal@voyagestoantiquity.com.
aclear © Andrew M
Here is a selection of photographs taken by passengers, while on a cruise with us. Ts&Cs apply*
© Andrew Maclear
© Andrew Maclear
TERMS & CONDITIONS *Entries must be received by Friday 7 December 2018 in order for your photograph to be entered into the competition. Maximum of 2 entries per person. This competition is open to Odyssey Club Members only, and photographs submitted must have been taken while on cruises with Voyages to Antiquity. The winner will receive a £100 Amazon UK voucher, which cannot be exchanged for money or be traded towards the cost of a cruise. Voyages to Antiquity reserves the right to withdraw this competition at any time.
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MY ODYSSEY
Passenger Perspective Judith Cocker was born in Sheffield, England during World War II, before emigrating to Canada in 1971. As an Emerald Odyssey Club member with Voyages to Antiquity, Judith has so far been on a total of twenty-six cruises aboard Aegean Odyssey, featuring both regular and grand voyages, and totalling 321 days at sea across Europe, India and Asia.
Judith visits the Giant’s Causeway
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MY ODYSSEY How did you first get into cruising, and consequently came to fall in love with the Voyages to Antiquity cruise experience?
Egypt and Syria Visiting the ancient Roman remains at Palmyra and the city of Aleppo before the war began was an amazing privilege.
As a widow, I was appalled at the prices charged by other cruise lines for single travellers. In 2010, I saw an advert for Voyages to Antiquity offering no single supplement on their inaugural cruise to the Greek Islands, so I booked. On the ship I found many other like-minded travellers and I easily found company. On each cruise aboard Aegean Odyssey I have met new friends with whom I keep in touch. We always inform each other of our travel plans and consequently I now always travel with friends. Sometimes there may be just two or three of us but we have had as many as twelve and have become known as “Judith’s Group”! My travelling friends come from far and wide, right across Europe, North America and Australia.
The Far East A month-long cruise visiting countries I had never even dreamed of being able to experience was absolutely incredible. A particular highlight was the ship’s first-ever visit to Myanmar. Seeing the magnificent temple of Shwedagon there was truly breathtaking.
How many VTA cruises have you been on? I think the number is 26 as I often do Grand Cruises which are counted, by me, as two. On my last trip, I was told I had spent 321 days on board Aegean Odyssey. Having reached 321 days of cruising with Voyages to Antiquity you must have visited many amazing places. Which countries have been your most memorable?
India to Jordan Being able to seeing the Taj Mahal in Agra and the ancient city of Petra – two of the most incredible sights in the history of the world. Stunning. The Black Sea I was lucky enough to do this cruise before the annexation, so we were able to visit Crimea. Even when cruising in areas of the Mediterranean I have already visited, the excursions on offer are often new, which gives me a different perspective. I have cruised in the Greek Islands many times, but I always manage to discover something I’ve not seen before.
Having travelled with us 26 times, how has your experience changed since your first voyage aboard Aegean Odyssey? I really like the fact that free internet and free laundry services are now offered. As an Emerald member I love the benefits. Looking ahead, where are you planning to visit in 2019 and beyond? (information correct at time of Q&A date) I have four cruises already booked with Voyages to Antiquity and can’t wait. This August I will be joining the ‘Trois-Rivières de France’ itinerary, when Aegean Odyssey will be river-cruising along the Seine in France for a chance to visit Paris for the first time. In October I’ll be sailing on ‘The Grand Aegean Experience’ which has all the quintessential classical Greek destinations. Then in January of 2019 I’ll be going from Delhi to Singapore, followed by the brand new ‘Baltic Capitals & St Petersburg’ voyage in July of 2019.
Why do you continue to cruise with Voyages to Antiquity? That’s simple. I like the philosophy of focusing on the destinations.
At the iconic Taj Mahal
Share your Voyages to Antiquity experiences with us. Tell us about your favourite cruises and standout memories, we would love to hear from you. Email: Journal@voyagestoantiquity.com Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
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COPENHAGEN
CITY GUIDE: COPENHAGEN
THE CAPITAL OF ‘HYGGE’
Karin Jans – our Scandinavian Destination Specialist – shares her must-do guide for modern Copenhagen. “Hygge” is a Danish word that is impossible to translate and difficult to define, but loosely speaking it is that very particular concept of conviviality and comfort that lies at the heart of Danish contentment. One may be tempted to think of it as having to do with candles, open fireplaces and warm blankets, but it is also about little pleasures, quality time, visiting charming places and the enjoyment of lovely things, which is why Copenhagen itself can be described as “hygge” for the city is full of this and more.
Must-see attractions include Denmark’s most well known lady, the sculpture of the Little Mermaid, inspired by fairy-tale writer Hans Christian Andersen’s internationally beloved story. At 115 years old, she sits alone on a stone at the entrance to what used to be the harbour. Tivoli Gardens is another national treasure that’s a must for visitors young and old. Hans Christian Andersen came here many times (the 175th anniversary of Tivoli is being celebrated this year) and Walt Disney was inspired to build his firstever theme park after paying a visit. It’s a beautiful area, full of exotic architecture, historic buildings and lush gardens, as well as a broad selection of restaurants, with live music available to enjoy each day; then at night, thousands of coloured lights are lit to create a unique fairytale atmosphere. Nyhavn was once a place for sailors coming to Copenhagen to stay, but nowadays this picturesque canal waterfront is an essential attraction that’s lined with old sailing ships and colourful
Good to know
Nyhavn District, Copenhagen
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Flying time from London
1.5 hours
Currency
Danish Kronne – approx. 8.50 to £1
Time zone
GMT+1
Established
1167
Population
725,000 (Greater Copenhagen 1.3 million)
Official language(s)
Danish (English widely spoken)
Climate
Mild winters, cool summers, windy. Warmest month: July (18-20°C)
Best times to visit
June, July and second half of August - September
COPENHAGEN
houses. Nyhavn is still popular among locals who, weather permitting, come here to relax in one of the numerous restaurants, or sit by the waterfront and chat over some beers. It’s the perfect place to end a long day. You can also catch a one-hour boat tour around the canals and the harbour from here, something Copenhageners also like to do as it is a wonderful way of seeing their own capital from a different perspective. “SMØRREBRØD” Two Danish specialities everyone should try are “smørrebrød” (open faced sandwiches) and “wienerbrød” (Danish pastries). Having been slightly out of fashion for a while, traditional smørrebrød are popular again thanks to young Danish chefs who have kick-started a new interest in authentic Danish dishes. How much food can you heap on top of a slice of rye bread? Try one of the smørrebrød restaurants and find out! They come in hundreds of varieties, from vegetarian and fish, to paté and meat. THE NEW NORDIC CUISINE Over the last decade, the New Nordic Cuisine has revolutionised Danish Gastronomy and shifted focus onto local ingredients. One of the driving forces behind the rising popularity of Nordic Cuisine is the success of Noma, a Michelinstarred restaurant whose name is a
A DANISH LOVE OF CYCLING • 1.4 million km were cycled per weekday in Copenhagen in 2016 • Bicycles now outnumber cars in the city 375 km of bike lanes/cycle tracks • Cycling accounts for 24 % of all commuter trips • Nine out of ten Danes own a bicycle • 44% of all children aged 10 – 16 cycle to school • Dronning Louise’s Bridge has the highest concentration of traffic in the world with almost 50.000 cyclists daily
is fast, convenient, healthy, climate-friendly and cheap. Even politicians ride their bikes every day to parliament.You can bring your bike on the local trains and on the Metro. Launched in 1995, with 1000 rather basic bicycles, “Copenhagen City Bikes” was the world’s first large-scale urban bike-sharing scheme. Thanks to the city’s many broad and widely-used cycle lanes (which have a total length of 375 km in all) bicycles now outnumber cars in the city, with many boasting GPS navigation and motors. No surprise then that Copenhagen was voted ‘Best Cycle City in the World’ two years running. SWIMMING IN THE CITY CENTRE
contraction of ‘Nordisk’ and ‘mad’ (‘mad’ is food in Danish). There are several other great restaurants that have also inspired the trend however; Copenhagen is home to fifteen Michelin restaurants in all, one holding three stars, two holding two and twelve holding one. As such, the city has become a Nordic Foodie’s Paradise. COPENHAGEN’S BIKE CULTURE Be it sun, rain or snow, for most residents of Copenhagen life is lived in the saddle of their bicycle. Copenhageners love to bike: they bike to work, they bike to school, to the shops, and to social gatherings. Cycling
When making a list of the most legendary beaches in the world, places like Copacabana in Rio, or Bondi in Sydney, may well spring to mind, but actually Copenhagen has been named the Best City in the World for Swimming in 2018, thanks to its urban waterfront swimming areas. Until fifteen years ago human waste was still being fed directly into the harbour, making swimming completely out of the question. But a complete modernisation of the sewage system has improved the water quality so much, the city has been able to open public baths and today the harbour is one of the trendiest spots in Copenhagen. There are currently four harbour baths in total with the first and best-known on the Islands Brygge waterfront, although plans are in place for more.
VOYAGES TO DENMARK Suggested cruises to enjoy the delights of Copenhagen: Land of the Midnight Sun London to Copenhagen 18 June 2019 16 days from £2,995pp Baltic Capitals & St Petersburg Copenhagen back to Copenhagen 3 July 2019 14 days from £2,995pp The Norwegian Fjords Copenhagen to London 16 July 2019 15 days from £2,995pp
Seafood and sides, Copenhagen Food Hall
Call 01865 951320 for full details and to book. 17
THE GRAND ODYSSEY
THE GRAND ODYSSEY V O YA G E S T O A N T I Q U I T Y ’ S L O N G E S T- E V E R S A I L I N G
Athens to Malaga • 129 days from £21,150pp • Cabin savings up to £21,400 • Departs 6 December 2018 S PA I N
Suez Canal Daytime Transit
GREECE
Malaga Athens Tangier
CANARY ISLANDS
Casablanca Agadir
Las Palmas A t l a n t i c O c e a n CAPE VERDE ISLANDS
Celebrate New Year in the Arabian Sea
JORDAN
Suez
MOROCCO
Aqaba
EGYPT
Safaga
Muscat
OMAN
Porbandar
Praia Celebrate Christmas in the Red Sea
Mumbai Marmagao Cochin MALDIVES
SEYCHELLES
BOM BOM ISLAND
BURMA
INDIA
Salalah
THAILAND
Trincomalee Phuket Penang Port M A L AY S I A Kelang Malacca Colombo SRI LANKA
Mahe
Luanda
Yangon
Port Blair
Singapore
ANGOLA MAURITIUS
Walvis Bay Luderitz
NAMIBIA SOUTH AFRICA
Cape Town
UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE AT
KARNAK
Visit the Temple of Amun, the greatest place of worship in history, completed by Rameses II
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DAYS
Port Louis REUNION
Richards Bay Durban Port Elizabeth
ISIMANGALISO WETLAND PARK
CRUISE AROUND KOH TAPU ISLAND, OR
JAMES BOND ISLAND as it’s been known since it appeared in The Man with the Golden Gun
EXPLORE THE
TAJ MAHAL
St Denis
A UNESCO World heritage Site that took 22 years and 20,000 workmen to complete
AFRICAN SAFARI
Set out in search of the ‘Big 5’!
22 12 56
COUNTRIES
HOTEL STAYS
WORLD HERITAGE SITE Cruise along Lake St Lucia and witness the largest concentration of wild hippos in South Africa
INCLUDED SHORE EXCURSIONS
16 15 UNESCO
OVERNIGHT CALLS IN
WORLD HERITAGE SITES
10 PORTS
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GUEST LECTURERS
Prices start from £21,150pp – call 01865 951320 for full details and to book 18
ASK THE EXPERTS
ASK THE EXPERTS: TRAVEL INSURANCE Here at Voyages to Antiquity passengers often ask us topical questions related to their upcoming cruise: what literature should they read prior to sailing, who are our expert lecturers, what travel insurance should they be taking out? We know you don’t need to be told how important insurance is, so in this issue, Kate Huet, managing director of International Travel and Healthcare (ITHC) explains how to get the right cover. Thanks to more advanced medical risk assessments, ITHC has a dedicated cruise travel screening system, based on what really causes a claim and what does not. The end result is that ITHC has removed even more barriers to cover, so you can now insure yourself for very high value and very long cruises more than one year in advance of travel. Every cruise is unique – you really do meet amazing people, you get to know them well and many arrange to meet on their next cruise. But what happens if you are about to travel with a friend and something happens to their health? Would your insurance cover your cancellation if you didn’t want to travel alone? The likelihood is probably not, but now there are two solutions to this: either insure together on the same cruise insurance; or opt to include some extended cover for a travelling companion who is not named on your policy. There is no hiding the fact that if you make a claim related to your health, the truth will invariably come to the surface. If you don’t declare everything, you may have wasted your money and find yourself facing some very large
medical costs. So think: what am I taking medication for? What have I had medication or treatment for in the last five years? Write a list and check it off as you go through the health declaration to make sure you have covered everything. You may have an historic cancer, heart attack or stroke which are not pre-existing conditions; but IBS, diabetes, high blood pressure and raised cholesterol are also important to list, even if they are well controlled by medication. But don’t worry! This does not mean you are uninsurable! Far from it. We expect people over 50 to have something they take medication for. You will be unusual if you don’t. There are some big differences between a travel insurance policy that includes cruises and a specialist cruise policy: the former is unlikely to cover the sorts of benefits that a comprehensive cruise policy will. So how do you know the difference? Check the policy you intend to buy covers you for cruise interruption, unused excursions, missed ports, confinement to cabin, withdrawal of services and natural catastrophes. Adverse weather can ruin an itinerary, so
make sure you have Scheduled Airline Failure cover and most importantly, if a travel delay causes you to miss your embarkation, you have 100% cancellation, or the ability to meet the cruise at its next port of call at no extra cost. If your home content policy provides what is called All Risk Cover then your personal possessions are already insured away from home. You don’t need to pay twice for the same cover, so look for a cruise insurance that gives this as optional cover and don’t tick it. Finally, the chances of you becoming ill on a cruise are statistically very small – 0.4% to be precise. However, cruises are usually booked well in advance and time has a habit of turning our lives upside down, which is why getting your insurance sorted as soon as you book your cruise is so important.
The helpful team at International Travel and Healthcare are specialist cruise insurance providers and will endeavour to assist you with your insurancebased queries. For more information, please call 01689 892292. Remember to quote ‘Voyages to Antiquity’ when making an insurance request.
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SIGNATURE DISH
Meet the Executive Chef Executive Chef: Altab Shaikh From: Goa, India Age: 40 Time with VTA: 8 years Signature Dish: Lamb Wellington with Madeira Sauce, stuffed with wild Mushroom and Spinach Duxelles Favourite Food: Indian food, especially Tandoori Chicken. Second choice would be Italian Favourite Country: Norway Before joining cruise ships, Executive Chef Altab Shaikh worked in many top hotels across the world, including a luxury hotel in the UAE. During his time there, he learned about different dishes and worked hard to impress his Executive Chef by creating combinations that stood out, with one dish in particular, he would always be asked to prepare, Lamb Wellington.
Inspiration behind his signature dish As much as Altab enjoyed cooking, he became bored of doing the same menu all the time, until he realised that his task to create this dish was at the request of hotel guests and others staying in the area who had fallen in love with it. People would visit the restaurant just to order Altab’s Lamb Wellington and began asking him how he made it – what kind of ingredients he used and how he managed to cook it perfectly, every time. This inspired Altab to push the recipe further and as he moved on in the world and moved up in the culinary ranks, he took the basics and added his own unique touch, which he now proudly presents as his signature Lamb Wellington with Madeira Sauce dish. Altab continues to experiment with different ingredients and methods, but the final result is always that of deliciously tender lamb, a smooth sauce and a complimentary side of seasonal vegetables. He also likes to serve the Wellington atop a potato rosti cake.
20
SIGNATURE DISH
MY SIGNATURE DISH: Lamb Wellington with Madeira sauce, stuffed with wild mushroom and spinach duxelles INGREDIENTS
METHOD
1 lamb loin trimmed (chef uses New Zealand lamb)
Season the lamb loins with salt and pepper, then sear them in very hot oil on all sides. Leave them to cool.
1 tbsp. olive oil
In the same pan, melt the butter and sauté the chopped shallots for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and sauté until all the water has evaporated, then add salt and pepper. Blend the spinach and mushrooms in a food processor or with a very fine knife, then add the chopped parsley.
1lb finely chopped wild mushrooms (chanterelles, button mushrooms) or cultivated mushrooms 1lb chopped fresh spinach ½ cup of chopped shallots ½ cup of chopped parsley 1 puff pastry sheet or 4 filo dough sheets (in layers, with butter between each sheet) 1 slice of Parma ham 1 egg 2oz butter 4oz minced chicken breast Double cream
Mince the chicken breast in a food processor with heavy cream. Place the rolled puff pastry (or filo dough) on a floured surface, place the Parma ham on top, then spread the mushroom and spinach mixture (Duxelles) evenly over the ham. Place the lamb on top and roll the mixture into the desired shape. Brush beaten egg yolk and water across the top of the pastry and bake in the oven at 200C – 15-20 minutes for medium, 30 minutes for well done. Allow to rest for 10 minutes before carving. Serve with a truffle or Madeira sauce and vegetables.
MADEIRA SAUCE À LA MINUTE Finely chop shallots and sauté in butter until glazed. Add one teaspoon of tomato paste and refine with Madeira wine. Add a small amount of tarragon leaves, reduce to half, then add beef stock. Season with salt and pepper and let simmer for 30 minutes. Strain and then heat again in a saucepan. Check for taste and serve.
Aegean Odyssey Food Facts
200kg 950
of steaks eaten every week
bottles of wine uncorked every week
2,000 25 jars of jam each week
large cakes served at tea service each week
1,600
fresh bread rolls baked every day
700 litres of milk poured every week
21
MEET THE TEAM
FIRST-HAND EXPERIENCE Name one of the most interesting places you have visited? The magical and exotic city of Marrakesh in Morocco. I completely fell in love with the smells, colours and atmosphere of this North African city and have since returned four times.
Have you experienced a Voyages to Antiquity cruise yourself, and if so tell us about it?
DARYL GOMM Reservations Consultant What is your role at Voyages to Antiquity and how may our passengers know you? I work in the VTA Oxford office in the Reservations department. You will almost certainly recognise my voice if you have called the office, as I am the voice behind the phone menu! The team and I look after all reservations from the UK office based in Oxford. One of my main roles is to ensure the smooth coordination of our Group & Partner bookings.
What is your earliest memory of travel, and what made you so interested in exploring the world? When I was a toddler my parents took me on holiday to the island of Gran Canaria in the Canary Islands. After that they always ensured my sister and I were well travelled, allowing us to experience fantastic holidays in the most authentic destinations in Greece, diving in the Red Sea and exploring the bright lights of New York, to name just a few. We were very lucky to have parents who believed in showing their children different cultures all over the world.
I was lucky enough to join Aegean Odyssey in Greece for a wonderful voyage around Crete, Rhodes, Kos and Santorini in April on our ‘Aegean Experience’. It was wonderful to explore our fantastic ship for myself and meet all the excellent crew members we hear about from all our passengers. I really enjoyed waking up every morning and watching the sun rise from the Lido deck, coffee in hand. My favourite destination from the cruise must be Santorini, when we went to see the ‘postcard perfect’ town of Oia. We then had lunch overlooking the stunning scenery, and it was incredibly special.
Where would you like to go to next on a trip? After having such a great experience on my April cruise in Greece, it has prompted me to look at what to do next. I have my eye on the ‘Italian & Adriatic Highlights’ cruise in September 2019, as there are a lot of destinations there that I have never been to before, such as the Colosseum in Rome, and Sorrento for the volcanic ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum! I would love to experience walking on the walls around ancient Dubrovnik in Croatia, too.
Daryl’s delight: the ancient city of Marrakesh
22
RICHARD SYKES
FROM YOUR CRUISE DIRECTOR You’ve all been there. It’s the last day of the cruise and you’re in your cabin packing your cases, contemplating getting back to ‘normal life’; wondering how on earth you appear to be leaving with more than you brought with you. Then a piece of paper demands your attention. It’s questionnaire time! Often passengers can be quite dismissive of questionnaires, believing that companies don’t listen to them and they’re a waste of time. I’ve never worked for a single company that has that attitude. They are routinely analysed and pored over. Often cruises that I’ve enjoyed haven’t ‘scored’ as well as I would have thought, and, conversely, when I’ve assumed things weren’t ‘up to snuff’ (as we say in Yorkshire), the most incredible, heartwarming comments have been written. At the time of writing, Aegean Odyssey has just completed a glorious cruise in Norway. And on this occasion the passengers seemed to be in agreement. There is a magic about Norway. Every view is a picture postcard. Each port has a subtlety and individuality. There’s a drama to the nature and comforting familiarity to its havens. I first cruised the fjords in 2006 and fell in love with them; opting for cold cruises to the North Cape whilst my friends took winter work in the Caribbean. I got proficient at predicting when the northern lights would appear, and during the summer months performed eerie, late deck parties under the midnight sun. Is there a catch? Well, sailing from the UK can mean dealing with a temperamental North Sea which, even in mid-summer, can impact cruise itineraries which leave and return to the UK on single sailings. This being due to the distances and speeds that must be achieved to reach port during occasional bad weather. However, looking forward to the 2019 selection of cruises to Norway and the Baltic, with these cruises now starting and/or ending in gorgeous Copenhagen in Denmark and such comprehensive further port choices, we have no doubt that this will be our most successful season cruising in Northern waters yet. And if that doesn’t get passengers ticking ‘excellent’ on the score cards – nothing will!
Flam, Norway
23
VOYAGES TO ANTIQUITY – CRUISE PROGRAMME 2018/19 Departure date
Cruise name
Days
From/to
Fares from (pp)
EUROPE 2018 1 October 2018
THE AEGEAN EXPERIENCE I
13
Athens to Athens
£2,745
10 October 2018
THE AEGEAN EXPERIENCE II
13
Athens to Athens
£2,595
18 October 2018
THE AEGEAN EXPERIENCE & CAIRO
13
Athens to Athens
£2,800
22 October 2018
GREEK ISLANDS & ALEXANDRIA SAILAWAY
9
Athens to Athens
£1,595
28 October 2018
A VOYAGE THROUGH THE MIDDLE SEA
14
Athens to Malaga
£2,495
10 November 2018
MOORISH ODYSSEY
12
Malaga to Tenerife
£2,345
SOUTH AFRICA, INDIA & SOUTHEAST ASIA 2018/19 6 December 2018
PASSAGE TO ANCIENT EGYPT & INDIA
37
Athens to Delhi
£6,295
16 December 2018
ANCIENT WONDERS & LANDS OF LEGEND SAILAWAY
22
Amman to Mumbai
£3,795
1 January 2019
THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE TO THE STRAIT OF MALACCA
29
23 January 2019
BEYOND BURMA & THE MALAY PENINSULA
20
Singapore to Colombo
£4,150
10 February 2019
ISLANDS OF THE INDIAN OCEAN & SOUTH AFRICA Odyssey Club Reunion Cruise
33
Colombo to Cape Town
£6,450
12 March 2019
SOUTH AFRICA, NAMIBIA & THE SKELETON COAST
33
Cape Town to Malaga
£5,350
13 April 2019
CLASSIC CIVILISATIONS OF THE SOUTHERN MEDITERRANEAN
14
Malaga to Athens
£2,445
22 April 2019
CLASSICAL GREECE & ISLANDS OF THE AEGEAN
13
Athens to Athens
£2,345
2 May 2019
THE BLACK SEA & THE GREEK ISLANDS
14
Athens to Athens
£2,850
23 May 2019
RENAISSANCE ITALY & HISTORIC ISLANDS
17
Rome to Seville
£3,250
4 June 2019
EUROPEAN CONNOISSEUR Odyssey Club Reunion Cruise
15
Seville to London
£2,595
18 June 2019
LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN
16
London to Copenhagen
£2,995
3 July 2019
BALTIC CAPITALS & ST PETERSBURG
14
Copenhagen to Copenhagen
£2,995
16 July 2019
THE NORWEGIAN FJORDS
15
Copenhagen to London
£2,995
30 July 2019
ICELAND, FAROES & SHETLANDS (no-fly cruise)
16
London to London
£2,995
14 August 2019
THE THREE RIVERS
15
London to Lisbon
£2,695
26 August 2019
MEDITERRANEAN ODYSSEY
15
Lisbon to Rome
£2,795
5 September 2019
ITALIAN & ADRIATIC HIGHLIGHTS
15
Rome to Venice
£2,795
19 September 2019
DALMATIA & ANCIENT GREECE
13
Venice to Athens
£2,495
25 September 2019
CLASSICAL GREECE & ISLANDS OF THE AEGEAN
13
Athens to Athens
£2,495
3 October 2019
CLASSICAL GREECE & ISLANDS OF THE AEGEAN
13
Athens to Athens
£2,495
Delhi toOUT Singapore £5,895 SOLD - WAITLIST ONLY
EUROPE 2019
Prices quoted are per person sharing a Standard Inside cabin, correct at time of printing, but subject to change. Not including Odyssey Club discount – apply a 5% saving.
5% ODYSSEY CLUB DISCOUNT
For more details or to book any cruise featured in this magazine, call 01865 951320 @Voyagestoantiquity
@voyageantiquity
voyagestoantiquity.com