September 2019
the Global fashion issue 1
See how we do New York Fashion Week Sept 6 - 11
London Fashion Week Sept 13 - 17
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Paris Fashion Week Sept 23 - Oct 1
NY Bridal Fashion Week Oct 3 - 6
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WOMENS
ACCESSORIES
A Decade of Milestones & Memories: An Interview with Don O’Neill of Theia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Fabulous Fall Footwear: Chloe Gosselin Fall / Winter 2019 . . . . . . . . 16
Celebrating 10 Years and Counting: FDLA . . . . . 122
It is in the Bag . . . . . 136
by Soneca Guadara
by Mabel Gago
Before the Runway. Backstage Moments at Afffair Fall / Winter 2019. . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Call Me . . . . . . . . . . . 54 by Adorngirl Photography
All Night Long: Paula Knorr Fall / Winter 2019. . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Behind the Legends, Tales and History: Discover the Beauty of Rennaisance of Chinese Imperial Jewelry. . . . . . . . . . . . 90 L’Agence Fall / Winter 2019. . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
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by Mabel Gago
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HAUTE COUTURE
MENS
East Meets West: Yumi Katsura and Xuan . . . . 56
Let’s Hear It For the Boyz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
by Chiyoko Takada
by Adorngirl Photography
A Nomad in Paris: Aleem Yusuf . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Love Lost. Love Found. La Métamorphose . . . 126
Swonne: The Modern Rocker . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Fluid Fashion, Fashion Forward: The Art of Ka Wa Key . . . . . . . . . 42 by Danny de la Cruz
BRIDAL Katherine Tash Fall / Winter 2019. . . 170
Tarik Ediz Fall / Winter 2019 . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
An Interview with Dres Ladro: the Man Behind Descendant of Thieves . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
On the cover: Alisa Volichenko in Yumi Katsura Photo by Ilana Touitou
Berta Spring / Summer 2020 . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
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Chiyoko Takada
Ashanti Jason
Soneca Guadara
Chiyoko is a global fashion stylist and entrepreneur who finds herself frequently traveling between her homebase in London, to Paris, Brussels and Tokyo for work and her many clients.
Ashanti is a self-taught, diverse photographer and the talent behind Adorngirl Photography. She loves to shoot catwalk and street style just as much as product and lifestyle setups. She has previously shot for Lancôme, Lavazza and drinks group Sovereign Brands.
Soneca is a personal fashion stylist who graduated from NYC’s top fashion institution, the Fashion Institute of Technology. Soneca loves everything about fashion— from working backstage at fashion shows at NYFW, to working on location at shoots, contributing as an on-air fashion expert, to her contributions as a style writer.
Alpine Baek
Eunjoo Jeong
Ray Cho
Alpine is a New York City based photographer who specializes in commercial products, fashion, editorial shooting, and documentaries.
Eunjoo is a New York City photographer capturing every lovely moment.
Ray is an Assistant Professor at Kaywon Arts University and a wedding and commercial photographer in L Studio in Korea. He is is also a fashion, product, and commercial photographer as well as a photography studio CEO.
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W
ith the fall season upon us and the changes in temperature, fashion, and dare I say it, holiday season soon to follow, there’s a lot on the way. I really look forward to this time of year because personally, I love the cooler months and don’t hold it against me, cold weather and snow. But before I get ahead of myself and unpack my boots and parka, let’s enjoy the fall season.
Now is the time to start thinking about the colors reflective of the season and the layering that is necessary for the wide range of temperatures we’ll encounter in any given day. So to give you some inspiration, we’ve rounded up a unique range of brands, stories, accessories and more from around the globe. For our cover photo, our Paris team, led by Fashion Stylist Chiyoko Takada, took to the streets of this incredible city and brought to life the theme of “East Meets West” with the haute couture fashion of legendary Japanese designer Yumi Katsura. See more from the collection along with pieces from haute couture brand Xuan in our latest fashion editorial starting on page 56. Beyond haute couture, we’re bringing you fashion for both men and women, ready-to-wear collections, bridal inspiration and accessories—all from the fashion capitals of New York City, London, Paris, Milan and beyond. And, get to know the creative talents and stories behind brands such as Swonne, Ka Wa Key, Theia and Descendant of Thieves. All my best,
Fashion Issue Volume 5 / Number 2
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Danny de la Cruz Style Editor Mabel Gago Creative Director MJ Cadiz Contact Us VRAI Magazine LLC P.O. Box 62 Techny, IL 60082 General Inquiries editor@vraimagazine.com Advertising Inquiries advertising@vraimagazine.com
VRAI Magazine is a digital lifestyle publication that delivers food, fashion and travel inspiration. With a team of creatives, storytellers, authors and talented contributors, we curate stories that represent the Style of True Living. © VRAI Magazine LLC. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form or by any means including photocopying, recording or other electronic methods without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in digital and print reviews.
Danny de la Cruz Editor-in-Chief
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r a e H s ’ t e L e h t r o F It Z Y BO New Fall Faces to Watch Styling and Photography: Adorngirl Photography Fashion: Beyond Retro
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Nicolas The Eye
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Dexter D1
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Billy
New York Model Management 11
AYO The Eye
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Robson Nevs Models
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Lloyd The Eye
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For the travel lover:
Travel Issues Click below to read each one for free!
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abulous all ootwear
Chloe Gosselin FW19 Photography by Alpine Baek
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See the event video
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Designer Chloe Gosselin (2nd from left) 26
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SWONNE 28
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Photos courtesy of Swonne
the modern rocker 29
VRAI Magazine: Can you tell us about the brand’s British roots and inspiration, and how you came up with the name? Katie Golinczak: The brand’s name SWONNE is derived from the London post code “SW1” or “SW-ONE” where I grew up. My Mother was part of a British youth culture known as the “Mods” in 1960’s England, a cultural and fashion phenomenon that clashed with the “Rockers“. Traditionally the “Mods” wore slim tailored suits, appeared clean cut and fashionable. They listened to the “Who” and the “Beatles” and symbolically rode on scooters. In contrast, the “Rockers” wore denim, leather and customized their clothing. They listened to Rock and Roll and rode Café Racer motorcycles. Gangs from both sides fought memorable battles and caused riots across the seaboard of southern England. Swonne is a blend both mod and rocker with a contemporary European flavor. VRAI: Why set up shop in NYC vs. back home in London? Katie: My fashion career brought me to New York City in 2006. After working for over fifteen years in the industry for designers such as Ralph Lauren, John Varvatos, DKNY Jeans and Levi Strauss, I decided to pursue my dream of establishing my own brand in New York. Though the ultimate goal for Swonne is to is to open a brick and water store in both London and New York. VRAI: What details set your brand apart from other menswear lines? Katie: Our collection of seasonless, elevated essentials can be worn year around. True staples for every man’s 30
wardrobe in premium fabrications. The collection targets men who are looking for comfort, durability, timelessness and sustainability. We focus on denim and all things Indigo. Our jeans are made of the finest Japanese stretch denim, woven with recycled yarns and produced using sustainable processes. We design capsule collections to inject newness into the line, for example our made in NYC shirt collection that supports local businesses. Also, Our Limited Edition line, where we reimagine vintage or deadstock jackets, hand dye, hand paint and upcycle, creating a renewed purpose to the garments. VRAI: Who is the Swonne man? Katie: My Husband Adam is a true Swonne Man! He is a successful professional that loves contemporary style, comfort, thoughtful details and a tailored fit. He is a lover of all things indigo and will rock a Limited Edition statement piece anytime. He likes to wear his clothes from day to night, versatile clothing that can be styled casual or dressed up for a sharper look. VRAI: We’d love to get your personal advice. What Swonne pieces should someone purchase to get started and do you have any advice for the best way to wear/style it? Katie: Our indigo Jeans (Shoreditch Rinse) and white shirt (Kings White) are a must! You can wear to the office, on the weekends, or for evening cocktails. Our best selling Indigo Tee (Streatham Indigo) should also be top of the list. The perfect shade of indigo goes with everything and gets better with every wash! continued on page 32
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VRAI: Let’s take a step back. How did you become a fashion designer and why menswear? Katie: I have a vivid memory of asking my mother to show me how to sew on a button at a very young age. She would sew at home and make “ festoon” curtains for the house. I would watch her on the sewing machine and then start practicing myself. She taught me sewing basics and planted the seed of fashion in my life forever. From then on, I started to customize jeans and make my own clothing. Back in England during my final year of BA Honors Degree at Ravensbourne College of Design and Communication in Kent, I was lucky to cross paths with a teacher who inspired me to try a menswear project. Up to that point, I always designed women’s clothing. As a result, I decided to design my final collection for men. After completing my BA Honors Degree, I didn’t feel ready to go out into the world and call myself a “menswear designer”. I continued my studies and completed my Master’s Degree in Fashion Menswear at the Royal College of Art in London. With menswear, I was drawn to the deep-rooted practicality and elegance of each piece of clothing, exploring tailoring, fit, fabrication and patternmaking. Menswear was and continues to be about expression of functionality and lasting comfort that only gets better with time. VRAI: Can you tell us about any designers that inspired you to take the leap into fashion? Katie: Viveinne Westwood, Paul Smith and John Galliano are all British designers who I admired. I was very fortunate to work for all three designers during my studies in London and Paris. Seeing them design, create and tailor were truly incredible moments in my career. VRAI: When I first met you at NYFW Men’s, I also met your husband who seemed to be very integral to the business. How do you work together/collaborate? Katie: As an architect and artist he designs and manages space planning for pop ups, presentations and shows. He created our hanging fixtures and built our customized clothing hangers. He wears all our product and is key in wear testing and the fitting process. He has been my rock of support and planning for the future of Swonne. continued on page 35
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VRAI: What new items do you have for the Fall/Winter 2019 season? Katie: We proudly developed and the new Made in USA Shirt Collection. These shirts were sewn and washed in Manhattan, supporting our local businesses. We added a few staple pieces such as our Indigo henley and several limited edition jackets that work for both men and women. VRAI: Can you tell us about your new women’s line or any other exciting news you can share? Katie: Women have been buying the men’s collection and selecting the size that fits them. Our Jeans, tees and sweatshirts look great on women and have become unisex. We are now working on an exclusive made in USA women’s knit collection that supports our sustainable lifestyle, using organic cottons, recycled materials and is chemical free. VRAI: Finally, when you need to rest and recharge, can you tell us some of your favorite travel destinations or getaways? Katie: For a quick fix, we drive upstate to the Catskills, New York. We enjoy the fresh air, all things outdoors and lot of space for activities with the family such as hiking, horse riding, swimming in natural springs, campfires and archery. It’s a complete distraction and opposite to the hectic life of New York City living.
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It is in the
BA Baniki
The classic reinvented into a glam rock look. A safe bet from this new born accessories brand created by sisters Barbara and Nicole Kimpel
by Mabel Gago
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AG By Loleiro
Bags and accessories that will make you feel unique in every event you’ll attend.
Azzaro
The Greek history has infused this timeless Azzaro piece. Silver is the new black and this is perfect either with a sophisticated look or your favorite jeans and blazer.
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Bibiana Hernandez This Columbian designer is one to watch. Bibiana treats leather as an architect, building rare and functional designs.
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123BC Looking for the perfect clutch? 123BC designs these cute jewels that will say a lot about your great sense of style.
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Bosques de Borches Tata Love handmade and a young irreverent Lolita look? This Barcelona brand is for you.
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Martina Spetlova This brand has a strong commitment towards sustainability. All pieces are recycled and redmade.
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Fashion, n o i h Fas For w ard
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Illustration by Jarno Leppanen
f o t r A e Th
KA WA KEY by Danny de la Cruz
When covering the fashion shows during any season, it can be a challenge keeping track of one collection after another. Sometimes, they honestly blend into each other. During New York Men’s Day last February, I walked into a dimly lit room where I had to adjust my eyes to what was happening before me. Let’s just say I’ve never forgotten that moment and this brand has left a lasting impression. London-based KA WA KEY is a brand that represents soft and dreamy hedonism and gender fluidity, a reflection of the dreams and imagination of founders Ka Wa Key Chow and Jarno Leppanen. The KA WA KEY brand is created for someone who’s not afraid to show their softer side and loves the experimental sense of fashion. The brand is also about the textures and fabrics used, it’s a celebration of diversity, and filled with the core values of “think twink, fuck gender, be a diva and there is always more,” as described by the duo. I’m sure that got your attention.
leather-like fabrics through the use of their signature treatments. All knits are fully fashioned, knitted in exact shape to reduce cut in shape and yarn waste. “We also use ZERO D-technology for our prints, which means zero dye and zero discharge,” stated Jarno. “KA WA KEY is constantly applying more and more sustainable elements in our creative processes and designs as this is truly important for us and the future of the whole industry and beyond.” continued on page 53
The brand was started by Key after graduation and while working at J.W. Anderson. Jarno joined while preparing for London Fashion Week Men’s and the rest is history. While Key handles the technical aspects of the design and production process, Jarno focuses on the PR, marketing and event production where he utilizes his arts and performing arts background. Together, they have been successfully complementing each other throughout the entire process. Part of the DNA of this brand is its stance on sustainability—an important part in the KA WA KEY design processes and designs. You’ll find the incorporation of sustainable materials and techniques ranging from the use of eco furs and the creation of 43
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For Fall/Winter 2019, the collection was inspired by western and traditional cowboy wear and with inspiration from the movie Broke Back Mountain. The result, a visually stunning presentation during New York Men’s Day that captivated every attendee, including this editor. Fluid, thought-provoking, erotic and even voyeuristic, I walked in to find models in various stages of dressing and undressing.
Key pieces from the collection consist of a knitted, multitextured mohair jumper and printed and devored erotica t-shirts and jumpers. “These pieces are very much what KA WA KEY is about as a brand,” stated Key. “These pieces show texture, knitted fabrics, special KA WA KEY fabric treatments.” When asked about the presentation, Jarno stated, “The way we create our presentations is based on devising. We create the story, frame, and concept and our performers and models will create the performance within this given frame. Every presentation is different, created by the performers and models. As the performances aren’t polished, meaning super rehearsed, this creates moments of surprises and fragility, even we don’t know what happens next, this depends entirely on our performers and models. Our presentations are heavily based on movements, natural improvised movement, and impulses.” So what’s next for this dynamic duo? They’re busy creating new pieces for women’s fashion weeks in London and Paris. KA WA KEY will also present their collection during Paris Fashion Week on September 25th. Also, KA WA KEY x Frequent Flyer bags are now available on Frequent Flyer e-shop.
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Carolina Herrera Good Girl Dot
Giorgio Armani Si Passione Eau de Parfum
Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal A Paris Eau de Toilette
Roja Parfums Ahlam Eau de Parfum
Prada Prada Candy Eau de Parfum
Tom Ford Orchid Soleil Eau de Parfum
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EAST MEETS WEST Fashion Editor: Chiyoko Takada / Model: Alisa Volichenko / Photographer: Ilana Touitou Makeup: Azami / Hair: Noriko Narusawa Outfit: Yumi Katsura / Shoes: Sheme 56
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YUMI Outfit: Yumi Katsura / Shoes: Sheme
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YUMI Outfit: Yumi Katsura / Shoes: Sheme
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Outfit: Yumi Katsura / Shoes: Sheme
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YUMI Outfit: Yumi Katsura / Shoes: Sheme
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Outfit: Yumi Katsura / Shoes: Sheme / Location: Hotel Atala
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Outfit: Yumi Katsura / Shoes: Sheme / Location: Hotel Atala
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XUAN
Outfit: Xuan / Shoes: Tods / Location: Hotel Atala
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Outfit: Xuan / Jewelry: Topshop, Mango / Shoes: Zara / Location: Hotel Atala 73
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XUAN Outfit: Xuan / Jewelry: Topshop, Mango / Shoes: Zara / Location: Hotel Atala
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A Decade of
Milestones & Memories An Interview with Don O’Neill of Theia
A 10-year anniversary in fashion is a major milestone. With trends that come and go, the ability to adapt overtime and remain relevant is key in this ever-changing and rapidpaced industry. For designer Don O’Neill, the visionary behind the Theia brand, we had a chance to learn more about his and the brand’s journey and the launch of his latest line, Love, by Theia. VRAI Magazine: Where was your upbringing and what brought you into the world of fashion? Don O’Neill: I was brought up in the west of Ireland in a seaside village, Ballyheigue, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and a three-mile stretch of white, sandy beach. 76
My fascination with fashion stretched back to my childhood to my elegant mother and chic aunts. When I was 16, I saw a documentary on Karl Lagerfeld at Chloe and from that moment, I was sure I wanted to be a fashion designer. And from there, my career began when I won a fashion competition in The Irish Independent, a national newspaper. VRAI: We’ve come to know you for your amazing bridal creations. How did you get started in this? Don: It all began with my signature petal gown which we offered in various colors. We received a request to make it in Ivory and that, coupled with my white signature THEIA goddess gown, became the flash point from which the bridal collection began. VRAI: What are the biggest challenges when it comes to bridal wear? Don: Designing the bridal collection for the runway show is fun, a flight of fantasy, and is thrilling for the editors, but it has to remain grounded and relevant to everyday brides. Finding that happy medium is challenging, which thankfully we have been successful in doing. continued on page 78
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VRAI: Looking back at a decade of work and success, do you have any highlights or special moments that you can share with us? Don: I have been blessed to work with so many talented people, and to have had so many magical career highs: Dressing Oprah Winfrey on the cover of O in September 2011, was incredible; then dressing her for the Oscars in 2012 was fabulous, and finally meeting her in 2013 which was the icing on the cake and made front page news back in Ireland. Dressing Carrie Underwood at the height of her fame when the dress we made for her 2013 Grammy performance became a video projection screen making the dress global news, and earning me an appearance on Good Morning America. Having my family sitting front row at NYFW in February 2012 for my debut runway show was amazing, and seeing that show become an entire article in the Wall Street Journal was exhilarating! Making the cover of WWD was amazing! Having the New York Times positively and repeatedly review our bridal show during Bridal Week coverage continues to seem surreal. Being awarded an Honorary Doctorate at University College of Cork in Ireland was extraordinary. The media coverage at home in Ireland with major articles and features down through the years running in every major publication along with countless radio interviews and guest appearances on the Friday night and Saturday night talk shows have been extraordinary. Dressing The Duchess of Sussex is an all-time career high, and to this day I am still pinching myself to have been blessed with such an incredible opportunity. Her Royal Highness’s images in that ivory gown that I designed will become part of fashion history… it’s sooo surreal! VRAI: We adore the new Love by Theia collection. Aside from the millennial target, what was your design inspiration for this first collection? Don: Speaking of blessings, I am surrounded by an incredible design team of super talented young women. There was a call out from our brides and bridesmaids, women in the 20s and 30s who loved their experience with the brand and wanted to see other options of cute, fun affordable cocktail and evening dresses from THEIA. The team addressed those needs and the reaction has been amazing! continued on page 80 78
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VRAI: What sets this collection apart from other collections targeting today’s Millennials? Don: We strive to offer a fun design perspective, cute and flirty coupled with value and quality. The team works very hard researching trends and developing fun twists on them, creating new embroideries, original prints and sourcing unique fabrics, while refreshing the must-have-classics. VRAI: What’s your vision for the Theia brand as you look ahead to the next 10 years? Don: I can only endeavor to continue to do my best as I have always done for these past 10 years, keep my head down and work very very hard and try to make each and every woman who wears THEIA feel the love that is poured into each and every dress, so that she will feel confident, beautiful and radiant in her dress, her divine inner light, shining bright for all the universe to see. VRAI: Finally, how do you rest and recharge and get inspired? Can you tell us some of your favorite travel destinations or getaways? Don: I love to spend relaxing down time with my husband Pascal. We travel a lot and try to spend time as much time with our families as we can, which is very important us. We spent a heavenly 10 days with my family in Ireland in July, which was magical. I grew up in The Kingdom of Kerry, one of the most gorgeous parts of Ireland and on each trip my sister and brother introduce us to spectacular places we have never seen... its majestic beauty is truly endless. We visited our good friend Joseph Walsh at his studios in Cork; He is a designer realizing one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces, possibly the most important furniture maker in the world. Spending the day with Joseph, and seeing his workshops, witnessing his creative process was truly inspiring. We also braved the high seas with my niece and nephew and sailed out to visit the 6th century monastery on the vertiginous Island of Skellig Michael. It is a UNESCO world heritage site, and most recently location of the newest Star Wars movie. It is aweinspiring, truly other worldly.
Introducing
Love by Theia Fun and young from day to night
We manage to do some quiet weekends and schedule in spa afternoons at the Great Jones Spa in NYC to decompress when we can. Digging our toes into the hot sand in Coney Island on a Sunday afternoon and napping for hours on the beach is therapeutic, and I love wandering for hours in the Brooklyn Museum.
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Behind the Legends, Tales and History... Discover the Beauty of
Renaissance of Chinese Imperial Jewelry by Mabel Gago
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Jewelery played an important role during Paris Haute Couture. Amidst all the events, I had a chance to discover Renaissance of Chinese Imperial Jewelry, a brand which stood apart and caught my eye. In an era where content is a must for becoming a successful brand, Renaissance of Chinese Imperial Jewelry delivers and captures and tugs at the heart. Instead of focussing on trends and glamour, the DNA of this Chinese Jewelry brand is deeper. The purpose of this brand is to learn from Chinese artisan ancestors to keep it alive and fresh for future generations through rich history, culture and heritage. The soul behind this brand is the amazing and inspirational entrepreneur, Cynthia Ruan who has an amazing curriculum and life. Her childhood was filled with a passion towards art and jewels. The more Cynthia wanted to learn about the more than 8,000 years of Chinese jewelry history, the more she committed to research, collect and protect cultural relics—something she has been doing for more than 30 years.
Ruan really loves jewels. She was determined to start a journey through China, swimming between traditions, legends and culture. She wants to preserve not only the beauty of a piece, but also its story and artisan heritage. As a result, her private collection is probably one of the most incredible today. Ruan has also started an apprenticeship in order to recover and protect the original beauty of the ancestral jewels. And, you know what? This passion has given birth to an industry. She has founded the Oriental Beauty Institute, an establishment on aesthetics. She wanted the elite group to be knowledgeable in fields related to aesthetics, art and classical Chinese culture. I discovered not only a wonderful jewelry collection, but also a collection filled with pieces with beautiful legends, mysterious tales and allure behind each one. The exhibition offered a beautiful dialogue between ancient and contemporary artistic jewelry, and a chance to travel back in time.
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Descendant of VRAI Magazine
VRAI Magazine: Where was your upbringing and what brought you into the world of fashion and menswear? Dres Ladro: As a child, I was inspired by my mother who would magically turn a sheet of fabric into an item of clothing. Soon I started to experiment with my own creations. When there was no extra fabric to play with, I would go to the back of my father’s closet and ‘borrow’ his clothing. I would de-seam them and use the base fabric to make my own items…until I got caught and was called ‘The Little Thief’. For me it wasn’t (and still isn’t) about fashion, it was about making clothing that I want to wear and that no one else has.
VRAI: What was the inspiration for the FW19 line? Dres: Love Thy Neighbor, But Don’t Dress Like Him. We find inspiration in the individualism of New Yorkers— fewer judgements and an openness to people who celebrate personal style. It’s about respectfully living amongst others but truly being yourself. We recently opened a store on Bleecker Street, in the Greenwich Village neighborhood and have become intrigued and reinspired by the social dynamics of the city. Not by chance does the theme touch on larger socio-political issues that we are facing in America. Can’t we all just get along?
VRAI: Aside from your limited batch manufacturing, can you tell us what sets Descendant of Thieves apart? What’s your design philosophy? Dres: I think one of the things that sets us apart is our Fresh Friday’s; every single Friday we release new product on our site and at our retail store. From a design perspective, our philosophy is to design from inside out. We pay as much attention to our interiors as the exterior of clothing including finished seams and maybe even a discreet ‘Don’t tell Mom’ pocket. We like to incorporate an element of surprise in our designs.
VRAI: Are there any specific pieces and/or details you’d like to highlight from the FW19 collection? Dres: The collection builds on bold, stand-apart, oversized outerwear that ranges from animal prints with elements of vintage military from the 1800s. Colors are rooted in rich earth tones, including deep gold and rusty browns that tie back into unexpected pops of rose. My favorite pieces are the blazers with detachable faux fur lapel collars that are meant to be worn as a transitional outwear piece.
VRAI: How do you describe the man that should wear a DOT piece? Dres: We are not for everyone and we don’t intend to be. There are so many brands to choose from and no one actually needs Descendant of Thieves. We make a very limited number of items for a limited number of interesting people who want to wear something that is not commonly found in the market. He is a confident man, understands style, and embraces more artisanal brands that reflect his individuality. VRAI: What role does sustainability play in your design philosophy/process? Dres: It’s getting easier to be more sustainable. There are more and more mills offering sustainable options such as fabrics derived from recycled plastics. Years ago, it was very difficult for us, but as awareness grows there are more sustainable options. We also believe in giving a piece of our success back and are a big supporter of Beauty for Freedom, a nonprofit organization that helps to fight human trafficking. As far as nonprofits go, they are pretty cussing badass.
Thieves
VRAI: Tell us about your NYC store. There’s a mysterious and moody feel to it all. What do you want people to feel when they walk in and discover your clothing? Dres: We are independently owned and wanted to celebrate that with a traditional ‘mom and pop’ historical NYC landmark store front. Instead of renovating it, we stripped it down and restored it to its former years with original front doors and floor boards from the late 1800s. In regards to the mood of the shop, it may have a dark feel to it, but I think it closely matches the character of the brand. When we started the business, I was holding ‘off the books’ events in an old Victorian penthouse apartment in one of the many run-down, abandoned buildings in Berlin. Everyone wore a black harlequin mask so the beauty and style of everyone’s attire became focal. This all played a big part in developing the idea and mood for the brand and the store. VRAI: Finally, how do you rest and recharge and get inspired? Can you tell us some of your favorite travel destinations or getaways? Dres: One of my favorite places to get lost is the Republic of Malta. Besides its beauty, there is such a rich and ancient Mediterranean history.
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Designer: Aleem Yusuf Photography: Greg Alexander Art Director: Sébastien Vienne Hair: Mickaël Brouch Makeup: Liz Bomben Model: Nawelle & Charlotte @ AvaModels London Productions: www.mephistopheles.fr Post Production: Romane Sorin for Méphistophélès 113
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Celebrating 10 Years
FDLA and Counting
by Soneca Guadara Photos courtesy of FDLA
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FDLA, also known as Fashion Designers of Latin America, is the brainchild of Albania Rosario. A native of the Dominican Republic, Albania came to the U.S. at the tender age of 18 with no command of the English language. Eighteen years later and specifically this September, Albania will be celebrating a decade of bridging Latin American designers to the forefront of NYFW and Fashion weeks from around the world in places such as Dubai, South Korea and Switzerland, just to name a few. I met Albania two years ago when I was invited to attend FDLA’s press conference at the start of NYFW. Since then I have had the opportunity to become friends with this talented, hardworking, young woman who has made it her mission to put Latin American fashion designers into the forefront of Fashion Weeks across the globe. Albania always had a passion for fashion and while taking classes at CUNY-New York, she had the opportunity to volunteer backstage during NYFW. After doing this a couple of times, Albania realized that Latino designers were not being represented at these shows. So with just a dream, Albania sought out local politicians from her neighborhood in Washington Heights (Manhattan) and the Chamber of Commerce and from there, her dream for Latino designers to be represented during NYFW, was realized. With the help of these people, Albania was able to secure sponsors such as Delta Airlines and Ford Motor Company, just to name a few. These sponsors allowed Albania to pay for the venue and everything it takes to put together a fashion production. With just six local designers, the show was a success. Each season, Albania was able to find more designers and the venue kept growing and growing. Initially called Uptown Fashion Week, the name eventually changed to Fashion Designers of Latin America.
“When you are content to simply be yourself and don’t compare or compete, everyone will respect you.”
Albania Rosario
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(le ft
nd Alb
a Ro a ni sario
FDLA has become the signature multicultural fashion event of New York City—bridging and engaging the community, to leading events. Albania’s ultimate goal is to create a strong platform and one that recognizes Latin American Designers. Her goal is to showcase at London’s Fashion Week, Paris and Milan. There is no stopping Albania and with all that she has done, I am confident those dreams are sure to take place.
Sonec aG uad ara
)a
Albania is a fashion producer to be reckoned with. Today, her shows are front and center in midtown Manhattan, along with many of the other coveted shows that take place during New York Fashion Week. Today, more than 50 of the top Latin American designers have been showcased within the ten-year period. With the likes of Carolina Herrera attending and sitting front row, to Fern Mallis, the creator of NYFW, attending and applauding Albania’s mission and dream to get these designers on the map, there have been many notable guests. In terms of designers, Michael Costello from Project Runway showcased during Uptown Fashion Week including the likes of Willfredo Gerardo who dresses Jennifer Lopez and the Kardashians, Spain’s iconic Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, to Benito Suarez from Mexico. Legends in their own right, all got their foot in the door attending NYFW through today’s FDLA.
FDLA will be held this year on September 10th and 11th. For more information about FDLA or to attend, go to FDLA.com/gettickets or check out their Instagram.
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Love Lost. Love Found. Designer: La Métamorphose Photography: Greg Alexander Art Director: Sébastien Vienne Hair & Make-up: Carine Larchet for La Roche Posay Model: Angeline @ AvaModels London Productions: www.mephistopheles.fr Post Production: Romane Sorin for Méphistophélès
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Before the Runway
Backstage Moments at Afffair FW19 Photography by Eunjoo Jeong 142
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All t h g i N g n o L
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Paula Kno rr Fall/Winte r 2019 Photography by y Adorngirl Photograph
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W
edding We’re excited to share three distinctive bridal collections perfect for the seasons ahead. Discover the elegant designs of: Katherine Tash Tarik Ediz Berta
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Fantasies
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K
atherin
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ne Tash
Katherine Tash Botanics Collection Fall/Winter 2019 “Currents� -- inspired by the movement of the ocean -- presents an elevated line full of richly layered designs, sumptuous textiles, and signature ethereal bodies. Currents is a collection focused on contrast, between a contemporary mindset and a timeless feeling, mixing hard and soft elements to achieve a forward line of bridal wear. Photos courtesy of Katherine Tash
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T
arik Ediz
Tarik Ediz White Collection -- Fall/Winter 2019 “I am fascinated by the integration of creativity and technicality put into the process of designing a gown� states Tarik Ediz. Having graduated from college as an engineer, Tarik Ediz has successfully combined his mathematically gifted mind with his love for fashion. He ventured into the world of fashion by following his heart and mind in 1987. He has since dedicated all of his time, energy and passion to creating specialty gowns that stand out in a crowd. Every single Tarik Ediz dress is manufactured in his atelier in Istanbul, under his watchful eye. Photos courtesy of Tarik Ediz
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Berta Milano Spring/Summer 2020 -- inspired by the architecture, landscapes and the definitive style of Milan. The collection features never before seen silhouettes and fabrics, the reintroduction of silk into the collection, alongside daring cuts and mix of handmade embellishments and embroidery. Photographer: Dudi Hasson Hair and Makeup: Guy Tako
erta
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L’AGENCE FW19 Photography by Alpine Baek
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Let’s Get Social and discover another side of
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