VVV Magazine Volume 1 (vvvmag.com)

fall - winter | 2013

V V V MAGA ZIN E

For the love of art Fall-Winter 2013

US $7.99 EU £6.06 UK €5.11

v v vmag.com

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fall - winter | 2013

V V V MAGA ZIN E

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For the love of art

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We are

VVV

Vision - Vicarious - Vanguard

7 6 5 4 3 2 1 4

years of dreaming months of planning cities months of shooting countries months of editing vision of beauty

It’s hard to wait around for something you know might never happen; but it’s harder to give up when you know it’s everything you’ve wanted.

In Volume 1, “For the Love of Art”, the inception of VVV Magazine comes from breaking away from our everyday lives to just simply create art.

We all have a dream, these pages are my dreams...

Invitation Enclosed.

Luke Duval Editor in Chief

Editor in Chief: Luke Duval Art Director: Bobby Vu Creative Director: Jackie D. All Photography and Styling by Luke Duval unless otherwise stated.

Contributing Photographers: Simon Beedle, Matthew Beedle, Rich Begany, Laspata DeCaro, Peter Dawson, Luke Duval, Massimo Gammacurta, Lajos Geenen, Martin Klimas, David Meredith, Mark Paulda, Plamen Petkov, Rankin, Lisa Shin, Chris Frazer Smith, Robert Tardio, Nick Veasey Special Thanks: Click, DNA, Elite, Engelman & Co., Ford, IMG, Jed Root, Karin, Eido, Marilyn, Madison, Nathalie, Next, One, Pinnacle PR, Photogenics, Slate PR, Supreme, Thierre, Trump, Wilhelmina, Women Editorial Interns:

Antonio Barros, Bradley Blackburn, Jacquelyn Chow,

Champagne Cochran, Claire Keating, Cassandra Kirk, Olivia Le,

Sabina Miklowitz, Sandesh Parulkar, Chris Ramos, Priscilla Teko

Publisher: VVV Magazine, Inc. 70A Greenwich Ave #235, New York, NY 10011 For more information, advertising, subscription, mailing list, and editorial submissions: info@vvvmag.com

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Fur Jacket Moschino TOP The Row

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Fur VEST Helen Yarmak TOP Isabel Marant pANTS Nina Ricci

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Fur Helen Yarmak DRESS PHILOSOPHY

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TOP PHILOSOPHY SKIRT GUCCI FUR SCARF Helen Yarmak Model Styling Makeup Hair Photo Assist

Olesya Sencheko @ Next Cat Baker Ralf Maarzouki @ Exclusive Paul @ Art-Dept Sabina Miklowitz, Chris Ramos

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Model Makeup Hair Photo Assistant

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Megan Mcneierney @ One Mann Nance @ Ken Barboza Jarrett Iovinella Sabina Miklowitz, Chris Ramos

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Luke Grimes

By Jacquelyn Chow and Champagne Cochran

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Luke Grimes, the 29-year-old actor from Ohio, has been recently added to the cast of HBO’s hit show True Blood. His dashing good looks and acting skills makes us want to sink our teeth into his future projects and this interview.

When did you first know you wanted to become an actor?

For as long as I can remember. When I was a little child I wanted my life to be like the people I saw in movies.

I guess I thought that being an actor would bring me close to that.

Especially since you are new to the cast, was it easy to get along with the actors of True Blood?

Yes. They are a wonderful group of folks. Not a bad one in the bunch.

What characteristics in a role appeal to you?

Is fashion a big importance in your life?

If so, how and why?

New experiences. New frames of mind. I really like playing passionate people. Passion is the most attractive quality in my book.

I don’t like the word fashion. Style on the other hand, I am a big fan of. All my favorite people have had their own sense of style that reflects a part of their spirit.

What is the strangest thing a role required you to do?

Do you have a specific style that you like?

Suck blood out of another dude.

I am really simplifying as I get older. I just like things that fit well, are comfortable and timeless.

Speaking of blood, I see that you are now apart of the hit series True Blood, how are you enjoying playing a vampire?

James is a vampire who really holds on to his humanity, so the vampire thing isn’t too prevalent. I actually forget he’s a vampire from time to time until someone walks up and hands me a pair of fangs.

Can you describe your personal style in three words?

Boots. Jeans. Shirt.

Outfit HOWE Styling Kelvin Seah Grooming Frankie Payne Photo Assistant Dennis Dang

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PHOTOGRAPHY Mark Paulda 22

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TOP THE BLONDS

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Jacket TOP PANTS HOSIERY SHOES

Katya Leonovich Thomas Wylde Skingraft Wolford Elizabeth & James

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DRESS Cheng BELT Cheng SHOES Christian Louboutin

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JACKET Lauren Bagliore

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TOP PANTS HOSIERY SHOES

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SoHung Lauren Bagliore Wolford Elizabeth & James

JACKET THE BLONDS HOSIERY WOLFORD SHOES CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

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outfit Issey Miyake hosiery wolford shoes christian Louboutin

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MODEL STYLING MAKEUP HAIR PHOTO ASSIST

Meri Gulin @ Women Cat Baker Hiyiyatun MuQaribu @ Ken Barboza Jarrett Iovinella Sabina Miklowitz, Chris Ramos

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TOP Lucca Couture

MODEL STYLING MAKEUP HAIR PHOTO ASSIST

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Heather Hahn @ Trump Cat Baker Kouta @ Jedroot Domingo @ Jedroot Sabina Miklowitz

TOP Thakoon

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Jaime Alexand

By Cassandra Kirk

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actress, Jaimie Alexander, isn’t the type to complain of breaking a nail. This girl’s got game. From her breakthrough role as Jessi in Kyle XY, to her current part in the second installment of Marvel Comics franchise, Thor: The Dark World, Jaimie Alexander is Hollywood’s new arse-kicking girl next door.

So you play Lady Sif in the movie Thor, which has so many demanding action sequences. Do you enjoy the hard physical aspects of the role?

Oh absolutely! I loved the physicality of that role and the training for it. Usually, we all train and do stunts together.

Chris [Hensworth], myself, Tom [Hiddleston], Colm [Feore], Ray [Stevenson] and Zack [Zachary Levi], we had such fun doing it. You know, I grew up with four brothers so, for me, the tough training, being around the guys…I really liked it.

der

What kind of things do you find most challenging as an actress?

What kind of script would really make you nervous?

I would have to say one of the most challenging things that I get sent quite often is a role that would be a femme fatale.

A woman who uses her body a lot. You know, sex scenes, a lot of provocative material. Those kinds of things are very difficult for me. I think that it's something I would explore if I got the right part, but I would want it to be something quite powerful. I'm not going to be that girl who just gets naked in the movie, that's not going to happen.

LOCATION CHAMBERLAIN WEST HOLLYWOOD GOWN DYANTHE

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“I feel a huge amount of responsibility. A lot of young women think they need to have big breasts, be a size zero, be taller, to have their hair the way someone else does. I just want people to know: be individual. You're the only person who's you.”

Well we've already seen you almost nude on TV. On Kyle XY, yeah! Blocked by bushes and trees and things. That was so funny, I got up to Canada and on my first day of work they said 'Ok this is what we're going to do' and I said 'What?!' The worst way to meet an entire crew of people! But it was fun and of course, I wore the right amount of garments to keep covered up. Again, it wasn't a sexual thing, it was a totally different concept that I had no problem with. It's just when it's overly sexual and it doesn't need to be, those are the projects I don't do.

I'm going to try a tricky little segue now: do you feel as comfortable on the red carpet as you do in front of a green screen?

energy. It makes me like their clothes even more.

How would you define your style?

You know, I'd say it’s edgy. Edgy with a little bit of femininity.

Kind of like the roles you play.

Yeah, there's a lot of myself in the roles that I play. Lady

Sif is very much like me. She's moral, she cares about the

underdog, and she’s trying to do what's right. She's a bit

of a smart ass and so am I. There are vulnerabilities to the character that are also an extension of myself so it's a lot of fun

I do. That wasn't always the case. I've learned to get over my fears of tripping or falling on the carpet and now I just have fun. The things I choose, style-wise, very much represent me. So sometimes they can be very ethereal looking. Very strong. They're simple in a way. It's hard to explain, but sometimes I might see a piece and think, 'This is like art!' and I can't wait to wear it. If somebody were to put me in a hot pink miniskirt or a black leather corset I'd probably freak out. I wouldn't feel comfortable.

You mentioned body image. Do you feel that, as an actress

Do you have particular designers that you always like to wear or do you like to try a bit of everything?

important because before I took that on myself, I just felt

You know, I do like to try different designers. But I do get locked in on certain people that I absolutely love and one of those people is Marc Bouwer. He's a dear friend of mine and his clothes fit me like no one else's. I feel like they're made for my body. Sometimes I go to his showroom any time I'm in New York and I try on all

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kinds of dresses and they all fit. I like people with a good

in the spotlight, you have a responsibility to send a message to young women about body confidence and image?

Yeah I do. I feel a huge amount of responsibility. A lot

of young women think they need to have big breasts, be a size zero, be taller, to have their hair the way someone

else does. I just want people to know: be individual.

You're the only person who's you. For me, that is so like everyone else. One girl might think her shoulders are ugly while another will look at her and think 'Wow,

I wish I had her shoulders!' It's like the grass is always greener. I want her to appreciate who she is.

Girl power!

Yeah. (She laughs.)

Dress Dina JSR Ring/Bracelet John Hardy STYLING MAKEUP HAIR PHOTO ASSIST

Kelvin Seah Miriam Azoulay Frankie Payne Dennis Dang

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Dress Skingraft

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Jacket Ports 1961

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Jacket Lauren Bagliore Jumper The Blonds Shoes ASH

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Dress Stiljus Model Styling Makeup Hair Photo Assist

Valeria Planidina @ One Cat Baker Frank Guyton @ Ken Barboza Jarrett Iovinella Sabina Miklowitz, Chris Ramos

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Photography Peter Dawson 42

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Julia Roberts

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Serge Normant

By Claire Keating | Photography LASPATA DECARO

Serge Normant, is the man behind the looks of some of today’s most iconic women, Julia Roberts, Reese Witherspoon, and Sarah Jessica Parker. With a collection of amazing hair product lines “Serge Normant”, a perfume line “Avah”, and two amazing coffee table book, he is trailblazing into the future as one of todays most iconic hair Styling.

Serge Normant shares with VVV Magazine with a glimpse of what it is like to have a career that you love, how hard of a journey it can take to get you to where you want to be, and how much fun you can have along the way…

As an iconic global hair Styling, what keeps you inspired to

from people on public transport by looking at passenger’s

maintain constant fresh ideas?

hair dos. Even being allowed to work with amazing

There are moments when I am more inspired than other

photographers. Working for a magazine, where you get

times. With my childhood, growing up in the sixties, the glamour was so open back then with women looking quite sophisticated. Then becoming a teenager in the eighties, there were great transitions in fashion that inspired me. But what inspired me today from the past twenty years comes from a lot of things: walking in the streets and seeing people’s looks and sometimes I am intrigued by it. Even if it is a negative reaction, it still gives me inspiration. I even get some sort of inspiration

people sometimes pushes you, like actresses, models, or pushed to go a little further than you think you could go, you suddenly end up creating something with the team.

You can never think that you can be something great by yourself.

So there’s great energy around you.

Yes absolutely! One thing that I believe is that you should

try and fail, rather than holding back and wondering what might have been.

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That’s very great advice for young people who are going out there to be more daring and to try more things…

Today, for the very young generation, they are told that they can actually achieve almost everything. True

Now let’s talk about hair products, what kind of hair products can you not leave home without?

to some extent, as there are more things available now.

One thing that I need in my bag is a great volumizer.

shouldn’t always trust in what is being told to you. I

my whole career, but never by itself. I always mixed it

then you have to take it as though they might be right-

oil, as I have always liked shiny hair. For me, hair spray

But you have to also really believe in the fact that you

Dry shampoo is also important, which I used throughout

think you should listen to the criticism people say, but

with a moisturizer to help create volume. I also need

but also that they might be very wrong.

is always necessary too, but I don’t like hair spray that

I read that you started working when you were fifteen.

How did all this come about?

I love hair, I love things that move, I love sculpture, the

flakes. Those products for me are essential.

Any advice for women who don’t know what to do with their hair?

movement in paintings. I used to do my cousin’s and

Yes, I tell people not to use too many products. It

with a thin pressed pair of scissors. In a way, I knew very

or three products max. I don’t like over loading the hair

mum’s hair when I was thirteen. I did my first haircut early on that I wanted to do this. So when I was fifteen,

I asked the owner of the salon, where I used to get my haircut as a child, if they were looking for someone as

an apprentice and I started there. I worked for two or

depends on their hair type. Try not to use more than two with products. I love the more natural look in a picture.

I love hair that looks touchable.

Can you describe a typical day in your life? Just a little

three years there, then moved onto Paris to work with

summary, or is everyday a completely different day?

an amazing artist. I was more into the Parisian type of

It’s different every single day. If I am working on a

shapes, and fashion. I wanted to start working for French

a freelance artist, I always look at my shoot as though

a manager who had a huge influence on me. He was

fashion and it was a great time to look at different artists,

shoot, I usually get there an hour before it starts. Being

Elle as I loved that magazine when I was growing up.

it could be my last. By definition of fashion, if you are

How did you land working with French Elle and how did

point. I always think that one day all of this will stop, so

you feel about that?

It was extremely scary. I had a friend who knew someone

fashionable now, you will become unfashionable at some I always feel so grateful. My life is a little chaotic to be able to say in a scaffold way.

at the magazine. I was introduced to someone at French

What is the next thing for Serge Normant?

three pictures in my book and it was very intimidating

I want to be more involved with salons but I am in the

my book, she made me wait for a while, and then they

the next year or so. I also might create some more hair

work. I didn’t care about being known. I didn’t know

to let it grow. I am trying to really figure out which is

actors, and top models. It was amazing to be a part of it

creative and inspired will help inspire other people.

Elle and had to go on a ‘go and see’. I had to go with

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and I was so happy to be hired to work.

as people there were great icons. The woman looked at

process of creating a new book. It will be completed in

tried me out. I was happy. For me, I was just happy to

products. My line is only three years old so I am trying

that I would end up working with all the photographers,

the best product to launch next and I hope that being

Julianne Moore

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All clothing by Lindsey Thornburg

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Model Styling Makeup Hair Photo Assist

Anna Rachford @ Women Cat Baker Kouta @ Jedroot Kevin Woon @ Jedroot Bradley Blackburn, Sabina Miklowitz, Chris Ramos

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Dress Alexis Mabille

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Jumpsuit Boots Headpiece gloves

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Oscar Carvallo Casadei Oscar Carvallo moga e mago

Dress Gareth Pugh Necklace Veness Arizaga

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Dress & Cape Shoes Bangle Necklace Model Makeup/Hair Photo Assist Style Assist 1 Style Assist 2

Oscar Carvallo Rupert Sanderson Sonia Boyajian Veness Arizaga Josilyn Williams @ Nathalie & DNA; Pierre Francois Carrasco @ Ann Ramirez Sandesh Parulkar Cassandra Kirk Claire Keating, Priscilla Teko, Jacquelyn Chow

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Handbag Judith Leiber

Jewelry Iradji Moini

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Scarf Silviya Neri Jewelry Iradj Moini

Model Styling Makeup Hair Photo Assist

Ines Crnokrak @ One Cat Baker Johny Saade @ Exclusive Paul @ Art-Dept Bradley Blackburn; Sabina Miklowitz, Chris Ramos

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Oversized Coat Jacket Skirt Leggings Shoes

Amaya Arzuaga Allude Ground Zero Peachoo+Krejberg Hexa by Kuho

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Dress Clarisse Hieraix Shoes & Other Stories

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Jacket Dress Gloves Necklace

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Peachoo+Kreiberg Araisara & Other Stories Maria Francesca Pepe

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tOP Jacket Waistcoat Pants Boots Belt

PRADA Amaya Arzuaga Avelon Julius DSquared2 Manish Arora

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Dress Anne Sofie Madsen Shoes Hexa by Kuho

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Dress Julien Fournie Gloves Peachoo+Kreiberg

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Dress John Galliano Coat Allude Model Makeup Hair Photo Assist Style Assist 1 Style Assist 2

Katya Gaydukova @ Karin Anne Sissokho @ Mods Benoit @ Mods Sandesh Parulkar Antonio Barros Claire Keating, Cassandra Kirk

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Jacket Lie Sang Bong

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Jacket Eric Tibusch

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Jacket Shiatzy Chen Top Alexis Mabille

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Jacket We Are Replay Shirt Eric Tibusch Model Makeup/Hair Photo Assist Style Assist 1 Style Assist 2

Dolores @ Women Jean Pierre Canavate @ Ann Ramirez Sandesh Parulkar Antonio Barros Jacquelyn Chow

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XI Coat Viktor & Rolf; Jumpsuit Anne Valerie Hash Gloves Mason Febre

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outfit Octavio Pizzaro Shoes Steffie Christiaens

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outfit Issey Miyake Boots Robert Clergerie for Issey Miyake

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Jacket Vivienne Westwood Skirt Masha Ma

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Coat Sweater & Pants Boots Hat

Viktor & Rolf Anne Valerie Hash Casadei Wanda Nylon

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outfit RAD by Rad Hourani Model Makeup Hair Photo Assist Style Assist 1 Style Assist 2

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Natalie Benkova @ Elite Ismael Blanco @ Aurelian Elika Bavar Sandesh Parulkar Cassandra Kirk Claire Keating

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Photography Lajos Geenen

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Iryna Skirt & Shirt Valentin Yudashkin Shoes Rupert Sanderson Jeanette Arthur Jacket DSqaured2 Shirt 22/4 Hommes Pants/Boots DSquared Uomo

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Iryna Blazer Vionnet Paris Dress Martin Grant Top Eric Tibusch Arthur Jacket Wooyoungmi Sweater DSqaured Uomo Pants John Galliano

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Iryna Cardigan Eric Tibusch Shirt Calvin Klein Jeans Skirt Kaylee Cho Arthur Jacket Replay Pants Viktor & Rolf Monsieur

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Iryna Jacket Lie Sang Bong Arthur Jacket DSquared Uomo Shirt Viktor & Rolf Monsieur

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Iryna Sweater Replay Skirt Rochas Arthur Jacket 22/4 Hommes Shirt DSquared Uomo

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Iryna Shirt Rochas Skirt Steffie Christiaens Arthur Jacket U-NI-TY Sweater/pants Wooyoungmi Model Iryna @ Madison Arthur Defays @ Marilyn Makeup/Hair Luc Drouen @ Backstage Photo Assist Sandesh Parulkar Style Assist 1 Claire Keating Style Assist 2 Cassandra Kirk

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Dress COS

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Dress Julien Fournie

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Model Brynja @ Next Makeup Ismael Blanco @ Aurelian Hair Francis Gimenez @ Aurelian Photo Assist Sandesh Parulkar Style Assist 1 Antonio Barros Style Assist 2 Cassandra Kirk

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Jacket Issey Miyake

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Shirt Fur Bustier Pants Shoes gloves

Sharon Wauchob Barbara Bui Zana Bayne Pascal Millet Rochas steffie Christiaens

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Jacket Bra Skirt Belt Shoes

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Issey Miyake Yasmine Eslami Martin Grant Zana Bayne & Other Story

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Dress Eric Tibusch Headpiece Laurence Bossion

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inner Dress outer Dress Headpiece Shoes Model Makeup Hair Photo Assist Style Assist 1 Style Assist 2

Valentin Yudashkin Steffie Christiaens Sharon Wauchob & Other Stories Marina @ Women Alexandra Leforestier @ Sybille Kleber Kazuko Kitaoka @ Sybille Kleber Sandesh Parulkar Antonio Barros Claire Keating, Priscilla Teko

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sent 127

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Photography Chris Frazer smith 129

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Meggie Dress Zang Toi Beau Suit Tie Shirt Shoes

Hart Schaffner Marx Ermenegildo Zegna Hugo Boss Cesare Paciotti

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Meggie Dress Zang Toi beau Suit Tie Shirt Shoes

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Hickey Freeman Stefano Ricci David Donahue Cesare Paciotti

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Meggie Top Philosophy beau Pants Dolce Gabbana

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Meggie Jacket Moschino beau Tuxedo Joseph Abboud Shirt Hugo Boss Pants Gucci

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Shirt Misook

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Meggie Dress Zang Toi beau Shirt Brioni Pants Armani

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Meggie Jacket Catherine Malandrino beau Coat Hart Schaffner Marx Shirt Hugo Boss

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Meggie Dress Zang Toi Jensen Tuxedo Joseph Abboud Shirt Hickey Freeman Bowtie Hickey Freeman Model Meggie W @ Wilhelmina Beau Jensen @ Fusion Makeup Natalie @ Magnet Hair Mann Nance @ Ken Barboza Photo Assist Bradley Blackburn, Sabina Miklowitz, Chris Ramos

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Photography Massimo Gammacurta 148

Photography Matthew Beedle 149

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Model mariya vinogradova @ Karin Makeup/Hair pierre francois carrasco @ Ann ramirez Photo Assist Sandesh Parulkar

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Photography Plamen Petkov

Photography Rich Begany 155

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Dress Zuhair Murad Earring Joanna Laura Constantine

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Necklace Virza de Luca; Headpiece Bernard Delettrez

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Dress Sleeve & Waistcoat Necklace Earring

Tsolo Munkh Moga e Mago Veness Arizaga / Virza de Luca/ Sonia Boyajian Bernard Delettrez

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Scarves Necklace Model Makeup/Hair Makeup/Hair Assist Photo Assist Style Assist 1 Style Assist 2

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Meesha Virza de Luca / Vk Lilie Aliza @ Women Jean Pierre Canavate @ Ann Ramirez Tiphaine Wioland Sandesh Parulkar Claire Keating Cassandra Kirk

Dress Oscar Carvallo Earring Oscar Carvallo

Exclusive Interview

Rankin Rankin has shot everyone from Queen Elizabeth II to Madonna. He’s founded and

edited

five

trailblazing

manuals

of pop culture (Dazed & Confused, RANK, Another Magazine, Another Man, Hunger) and style, travelled to the Congo to promote conflict awareness with Oxfam, documented attitudes towards death with the BBC, and directed music videos and short films. With the new release of his finest work through his 20 years of work, “MORE” is a rich and diverse collection of legendary photography. Now, 21 years after he launched Dazed & Confused with Jefferson Hack, Rankin is still driven (and called upon) to create.

By Cassandra Kirk

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alicia keys

debbie harry 164

The film documenting your Alive: In the Face of Death series, was really emotional to watch, particularly because of how visibly moved you were. Is it harder to photograph and document when you're emotionally attached to a project?

quite a unique way of looking at the world. So I do stuff like that but then I'll do something where there is no make up, no styling. I don't do it for any other reason other than I'd probably get bored if I did the same thing every day.

The weird thing for me was that Jack [Cocker], the director, and I, had thought about the project a lot more than we'd thought about anything before. This might sound a bit strange but, if you're scared of death, which I definitely was, you feel a bit like you're playing with fire when you start talking to people. There's an element of thinking about the Grim Reaper. Like there's an order to it all. That really affected us quite seriously. We started talking about the project last year in August but we didn't really do anything until January because we found it so difficult to get over this hurdle. We actually both got quite depressed, especially over Christmas. It put us in a weird place in our heads

There are people who don't take my work that seriously, who think I copy other people, I'm not a true artist, I'm a magpie.. I don't intentionally do stuff not to be recognized, I just don't find it interesting to do the same thing every time, and I love photography! I love how broad it is and how many different genres there are. I'm a big fan of photography, that's why I do these TV shows.

They're like master classes in the people I really admire.

I find it really difficult to explain why I don't have a particular style. And also, ten years ago what I was doing was maybe a bit more unusual, but now a lot more people are doing. It's not as judged as it was but I find that I don't even think about it. I just do what I like doing, I don't think about the style. I've also learned to trust my gut. if I genuinely like an image other people seem to like it as well. So I try not to be too analytical about it. I don't enter competitions; I don't promote myself on the international photography circuit. There are a lot of groups and associations. I'm a member of a couple but more for information. I'm a bit like Groucho Marx, you know, I wouldn't be in a club that would take me as a member. I don't know if that answers your question, but I just don't think about it, I feel a bit, take me or leave me! If you don't like me fine! Don't worry I'm not going to lose sleep over it.

The more I thought about how photography records moments in time, the more natural it seemed that death and mortality would be a subject for a photographer. Do you feel that there's that sense of need to record everything while you can, as if you're against the clock, in every photograph? I think that, as a photographer, you're very aware of the fact that you're capturing time. When you start to look back on your work, there's got to be an element of wanting the picture to represent a moment in time or a moment in fashion. There's a part of you that wants to create something that's going to live forever. When you're young you don't have people die much around you. Then as you get older, people start dying and the photographs take on a new meaning. As a photographer I try not to think about it but you can't help it because you're dealing with time. Time changes you. You notice it when you look at yourself in the mirror. You can't help but notice it.

Talking about defining your work, I've watched you say in an interview that you set out to avoid definition in regards to your style, so rather than ask what defines a Rankin photograph, instead I' ll ask what unifies your work? How, for example, did you choose the pictures for your retrospective (at the Old Truman Brewery)? Were they your favourites? Were they the ones which you felt tapped into an extra dimension in the subject best?

I think with my photography, it's all about this idea of you collaborating with someone who's an artist in quite an unusual way. They use their face as a kind of canvas.

What I bring to it is the reality, I hope. I just love those images, they're so surprising and challenging. When you look at something and you think that's so unusual, it's

You've definitely branched out over recent years. Your projects outside the fashion industry - Alive, which we've talked about, the portraits in Congo with Oxfam - have these projects changed the way you feel about fashion photography and portraiture? Have they changed the way you approach your work?

I don't think they've changed the way I approach my work but I'm definitely a better human being for having done them. One of the reasons I do things like that is because I had a five-year-old son and my moniker is 'celebrity photographer' or 'fashion photographer Rankin'. I'm hardly either of those. When you go to somewhere like the Congo, it's so good for you. You realize there's a whole other world out there. Weirdly, when you deal with people who have terminal illnesses, they're positive and optimistic. Personally, it really helps me. I go slap myself in the face and say stop being a stuck up wanker! Because that's the problem, we can really live in a bubble. Generally we're not all like that.

Everyone deals with things in their own way and my way is, through photography, to help people.

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jarvis cocker

You launched Hunger magazine last year. What's the appeal of print media for you?

Is that how it began then, with you feeling like an outsider?

I missed working in magazines. I love that interaction you get with people working in magazines. You know I've never left (Dazed). I just sort of stopped working there, though I still own it. I wanted something of my own, that I didn't have to go to someone else for approval first. I didn't want to go back and knock the DNA at (Dazed) or mess up the balance, because it's very hard to get the balance of a magazine right. If I'd gone back in and reinvented the wheel it would have upset everything.

Financially too, I was in a position to do (Hunger) and I thought this might be my last chance to do another magazine. It's like my last hurrah, I guess.

before. I was from the home counties, Jefferson was

Yes! We were outsiders. We'd never been to London from the south coast, and Katie's from Birmingham. We didn't feel at home at our own home, and we didn't feel

at home in London. We were very much outsiders and we always felt like that. We definitely wanted to create our own scene, our own platform. We loved Malcolm

McLaren. We all respected that do-it-yourself attitude.

That's where we came from. Andy Warhol and Malcolm McLaren.

I wanted to finish with something lighter than the intense

Do you think there's a thrill you get when you buy a new magazine that you don't get when you look at a website?

stuff we've been talking about. What's a typical Rankin

Yeah, and I think people like to take pages out of magazines and stick them on their wall. It's basically cheap art. What art can you get for £6.95? We've all done it, kept clippings or torn out pages. Magazines are really inspiring if they're done well. The big magazines are doing really well. They're going from strength to strength.

A day for me is…I get up at around 6 o'clock, or between

Which magazines do you buy?

I buy (Purple) and (LOVE). I like a bit of everything. I love that there are loads of independent publishers now.

It's like they're putting their hearts on their arm. I like that. It's so strong now. It's good that there are people out there doing it. I don't like that kind of exclusivity.

I'm a bit more like 'keep it open'. But like I said, I don't like clubs. I try and make my magazines a bit more pop, so that they're fun. I love (LOVE) magazine, I think Katie [Grand]'s done a great job with that.

How do you feel about Dazed? It began so long ago and it's become a cultural benchmark against which so many other publications must measure themselves. How do you feel about that?

Very proud, a bit like a dad that it's gone on to do so well.

But I don't know, as you get to your forties and fifties, you still want to achieve things. Twenty years of (Dazed) is a great achievement but you feel a bit like you don't want to be marginalized because you've already done it.

I still want to do things that have meaning. We set out with that agenda, we wanted to change the world and we still want to change the world. That's why Jefferson [Hack] and I don't have so much to do with (Dazed). It's not about middle-aged guys. It's about young people who feel a little bit distanced from everything else. Wanting to change things. There's no point in me trying to talk to twenty year olds.

day like?

5 and 7AM. I'll get up and do emails for a couple of

hours. I'll shower. I'll have a cup of tea around 9.30AM. I'll go down and check hair and make up's going, brief people if I have to. Then I'll meet my production team

for an hour on set to go through things and chat, but basically go through what shoots are coming up and check the diary. Then I'll probably start shooting at 11AM until 5 or 6PM. I'll have meetings in between

shots, which is one of the most difficult things to do

because people kind of think that what I do is easy and you can just turn it on and off. A lot of the time you

can, but it can be hard. There's so much going on in a shoot, every day I'm in and out of meetings. At 7PM

I'll have a round up of the day and then I'll probably go home (just upstairs) at around eight. I'll probably go to

bed at 10PM, though my wife will try to keep me awake because I'm so busy.

You say you never have a day off. Are you ever without a camera? Do you usually keep a camera on you when you go out?

I don't, no. I've started to a little bit. I'm using my camera phone a lot because I've just started using Instagram. I

prefer to construct photographs. The other day I was on a farm taking pictures of the animals.

Is that coming next? An animal exhibition?

Oh no I don't think so, although I do a dog calendar every year for my wife, for a laugh.

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XVIII Vest & Bustier Cheng

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Necklace Erickson Beamon

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Necklace Erickson Beamon

model Ting Ting Wu @ wilhelmina tessa @ click styling cat baker makeup donald simrock @ margaret maldonado hair jarrett Iovinella photo assist sabina miklowitz, chris ramos

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photography Lisa Shin 175

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model Kim Riekenberg @ IMG Makeup Cyril Nesmon @ Backstage Photo Assist Sandesh Parulkar

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Necklace Laruicci Ring Laruicci

Headpiece Sugar Scout Necklace Kenneth J. Lane

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Model Styling Makeup Hair Photo Assist

Bianca Gittens @ Supreme Cat Baker Frank Guyton @ Ken Barboza Paul @ Art-Dept Bradley Blackburn, Sabina Miklowitz, Chris Ramos

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Photography Martin Klimas 192

Photography Nick Veasey 193

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XXI Dress ISSA

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Dress Project D London

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Dress Alpana Aneeraj

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Dress Project D London

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Dress issa Model Styling Makeup Hair Photo Assist

Klazyna @ Photogenics Cat Baker Donald Simrock @ Margaret Maldonado Jarrett Iovinella Bradley Blackburn

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Jacket Katrin Schnabl

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Jacket Top Leggings Hosiery Shoes Belt

Helmut Lang Jonathan Simkhai Swash Stockingirl Skingraft Katya Leonovich Couture

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Hat Skingraft Jacket Katrin Schnabl Model Styling Makeup Hair Photo Assist

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Heather Hausman @ Women Cat Baker Donald Simrock @ Margaret Maldonado Jarrett Iovinella Sabina Miklowitz, Chris Ramos

Cape Skirt Leggings Shoes

Buki Akib Kaelen The Row Loeffler Randall

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Photography: Simon Beedle

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XXIII

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Dress Alpana Neeraj

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Shirt Dolce & Gabbana Top Yoana Baraschi Scarf Yoana Baraschi

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Jacket Top Pants Head Wrap

Jacket Scarf Top Skirt

Atpug Varuag Yana Baraschi Toujouri Steve David

Catherine Malandrino Vismaya Gucci Saunder

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Top Gaurav Gupta Headwrap Vismaya / Johnny Was / Biya

Model Styling Makeup Hair Photo Assist

Masha Rudenko @ Photogenics Cat Baker Klexius Kolby Steve David @ Exclusive Bradley Blackburn

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Photography David Meredith 214

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XXIV All clothing by Issey Miyake

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Model Styling Makeup Hair Photo Assist

Virginia Slaghekke @ Trump Cat Baker Aeriel Payne @ Ken Barboza Jarrett Iovinella Sabina Miklowitz, Chris Ramos

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Cover 1 Shirt: Issey Miyake Model: Virginia Slaghekke @ Trump Styling: Cat Baker Makeup: Aeriel Payne @ Ken Barboza Hair: Jarrett Iovinella Photo Assist: Sabina Miklowitz, Chris Ramos

Cover 2 Fur: Helen Yarmak Top: Givenchy Model: Olesya Sencheko @ Next Styling: Cat Baker Makeup: Ralf Maarzouki @ Exclusive Hair: Paul @ Art-Dept Photo Assist: Sabina Miklowitz, Chris Ramos

Cover 3 Dress: Imperio Model: Klazyna @ Photogenics Styling: Cat Baker Makeup: Donald Simrock @ Margaret Maldonado Hair: Jarrett Iovinella Photo Assist: Bradley Blackburn

Cover 4 MODEL: Kim Riekenberg @ IMG Makeup: Cyril Nesmon @ Backstage Photo Assist: Sandesh Parulkar

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fall - winter | 2013

V V V MAGA ZIN E

For the love of art

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fall - winter | 2013

V V V MAGA ZIN E

For the love of art

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