Zborov and its Castle • EN

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scates the castle. It falls par Szerédy. In spite of the feuds with

HISTORY OF THE VILLAGE

John of Ostrog sells the manor together with the castle to Sigismund Rákóczi for 80,000 ducats; his descendants later paid

Antihabsburg uprisings in which the Rákóczy family line er the Wesselényi conspiracies of 1664/66 and 1670/71 are exposed, their leaders are executed. e list also includes Petar Zrínsky (1621–1671), Ilona’s father. e family line came from central Croatia, was founded in 1347 and perished with her death in 1703. Ferenc I. Rákóczi escapes He

vo castle, which is taken in 1688. She dies in Turkey. Her remains and those of her son Ferenc II. Rákóczi (1676–1735) and three

66O

ZBOROV

and its castle

e imperial troops conquer the castle and seize 16 bronze and 6 iron cannons. Since then the castle has decayed. Its ruins are further damaged in WWI in the clashes between the History of

H I S TO R Y O F T H E C A S T L E

side the road from Dlhá Lúka to Bardejov where he suddenly died and is buried), his son George takes over the manor and is followed

CHURCHES, CHAPELS AND MANOR HOUSES

e upper castle is adjusted, the second courtyard restructured and extended. A third (lower) courtyard boasting a polygonal, semicircular bastion and a bulwark with a gallery and crenelles is e bailey is divided by walls, thereby allowing for better access control. Several farmhouses are built in the western section of is redesign creates a


HISTORY OF THE VILLAGE Zborov is located 10 km north of Bardejov and another 10 from the border with Poland, on the strategic route through the Carpathians leading NW to Biecz–Czchów– Krakov (170 km) and NE to Dukla–Sanok–Ľvov (265 km). 1355 First written mention of the village (villa Zbro et in ipsa capella et molendinum = Latin: the village of Zbro in which are a chapel and a mill). 14th C. Construction of the Gothic church. 1427 The village has 35 portals (L. porta = gate) through which a fully loaded hay cart could pass into the courtyard. The portal was a typical taxation unit in the Middle Ages. 1550 Extension of the church building which is dedicated to St. Margaret of Antioch → see chapter Churches… 1614 The Jesuits serve at the Makovica manor. 17th C. Tailors, weavers, shoemakers and furriers form brotherhoods – fraternities (L. frater = brother). To the manor also belong a gunpowder mill, a glass works and two sawmills. 1640 Consecration of the church of St. Sophia → see chapter Churches, Chapels and Manor Houses. 1669 Building of the paper mill; operates until 1827.

1711 The Ferenc Rákóczi II. Uprising ends with the Treaty of Szatmár. The village land is ravaged. The manor is confiscated and split up: Count Aspremont, Juliana Rákóczy’s husband, and the House of Szirmay get a part; the smallest part now belongs to the House of Erdődy. The village becomes a territorial town (Latin: oppidum = country town; sigillum = seal) and is divided between two noble Houses – two municipalities. The Aspermont part is composed of a reeve, a notary and 4 jurors; the Szirmay part of a reeve and 5 jurors. 1786 Zborov boasts 218 houses and 1567 inhabitants. 18th C. Brick manufacture. 1828 The number of houses rises to 319, the number of inhabitants to 2307. 19th C. The first distillery and vinegar works exist here.


integrates shortly thereafter. 1977 The Magura collective farm covers 3,532 hectares. 1982 Zborov gains in local importance. 1985-89 Construction of the water mains. 1990 First democratic elections. 1994 Construction of the gas mains. 2005 Celebration of the 650th anniversary of the first written mention of the village. 2007 Establishment of the nursing home. 2009 80th anniversary of the voluntary fire brigade mobilisation. 2012 The In vita social and nursing home is opened. 2014 90th anniversary of the founding of the local footbal league. 2015 660th first written mention anniversary.

HISTORY OF THE VILLAGE

1906 Start of the sawmill operation (which ceased to exist in 1945 together with the mill). 1910 2,202 inhabitants and the Hungarian name, Zboró. During World War I, Zborov witnesses the most bitter fighting in present-day Slovakia. 1914, 20th Nov. Austro-Hungarian army leaves the trenches and retreats. In the night from of 8th/9th Dec., the Russian forces suddenly pull out of Zborov to avoid encirclement. Next day, the Kaiser’s troops arrive. 1915, 25th March Second Russian invasion and subse-quent village evacuation. Austro-Hungarian soldiers set 340 houses on fire. The front line crosses the middle of the village!!! The destruction is over between 1st–3rd May as the final battle takes place. 32 Zborov inhabitants perish in the war and approx. 25% of the residents never return. 1919 1690 inhabitants (a 25 per cent reduction compared to 1910). 1937 Electrification. 1942, 15th Apr. Transport of 430 Jewish inhabitants to Bardejov railway station and from there to the concentration/ death camps → see chapter Jews and the Jewish cementry. 1945, 19th Jan. Liberation of the village by the troops of the 1st Czechoslovak brigade. 1950 Type 1 local collective farming is introduced but dis-


HISTORIA ZAMKU HISTORY OF THE CASTLE XIII-XIV w. Construction budowa zamku obronnego szlaku of the sentinel na castle nexthandlowym to the trade 13th/14th C. prowadzącym do Polski. route to Poland. 1325 kasztelanem (łac. castelanus, synonim:palatinus palatinus, czyli 1325r.The castellan (L. castelanus, synonym: = count zarządca zamku) zostaje Filip Drugeth. Ciekawostka: Drughet palatine) is Philip Drugeth. Note: The Drugeths, a French-Itato francusko-włoski ródfrom pochodzący Salerno podThey Neapolem. lian family line, came Salerno znear Naples. fought W podof Rozhanovcami w dniu 15 czerwca r. Druin bitwie the Battle Rozhanovce next to King Charles1312 I Robert on ghetowie króla they węgierskiego I Ro15th June walczyli 1312 andpo forstronie this service were givenKarola large estates berta. Zapresent-day tę zasługę otrzymali rozległeLater majątki wschodniej around eastern Slovakia. theywe built a manorSłowacji. późniejszym okresie pałac wThe Humenn house in W Humenné, which is nowzbudowali a town symbol. Drugeth em, będący symbolem miasta. Ród wymarł po mieczu w 1684 r. male line died out in 1684.

Zdjęcia: Photo:Vladimír VladimírKaminský Kaminský 1347 r. akt króla Ludwika Węgierskiego – pisemna 1347 Charter of King Louis I of Hungary, thepierwsza first written menwzmianka o zamku Makovica, którego nazwa pochodzi od łańtion of the existence of Makovica castle, which is named after cucha Inne nazwy historyczne: Makuicha, the hillgórskiego. it stands on. Historical names: 13471347 Makuicha, 13551355 MaMakavicha, 1364 castrum Macauycha, 1367 castrum de Makokavicha, 1364 castrum Macauycha, 1367 castrum de Makovicza, vicza, 1470 Makauicha; (łac. castrum 1415, 1415, 1416, 1416, 1470 Makauicha; (L. castrum = fort).to zamek). Król zakazuje kasztelanom Stefanowi Bebekom The king prevents the castellans Stepheni Jerzemu and George Bebek (szlachecki do noble któregofamily należał zamek Krásna Hôrka wymarły (membersród, of the line which owned Krásna Hôrka po mieczu 1567 majątkowi Smilno castle and w died outr.)inzagrażać 1567) from threatening the (oddalonemu estate of Smilono 4 km) i przyciągać poddanych do posiadłości (4 km away) and thereby attracts the villeinsmakovickiej. to the Makovica 1355 r. kasztelan Mikuláš Forgáč kieruje dalszym zasiedlaniem estate. posiadłości Makovica – Zborov. 1355 Castellan Mikuláš Forgáč directs the next settlement of 1364 r. posiadłość zamkowa the castle estate of Makovica – Makovica Zborov. wraz z posiadłością Smilno otrzymuje na własność dziedziczną szlachcic Cu1364 The Makovica estate together with the estate Peter of Smilno dar z Onódu.byWnobleman ciągu 100Peter lat ród ten przyczynił się do uświetis acquired Cudar of Onód. His family line nienia zamku i posiadłości. develops the castle and estate during the next century. 1470 ródCudor Cudarów wymiera. i cieszący 1470 r.The family line diesOwiany out. Thelegendami legendary king Mattsię dobrą sławą (1443–1490) król Maciej Korwin (1443–1490) przekazuje pohias Corvinus gives the estate to the lords of Rozsiadłość Rozgonyi. W herbie królewskiej hanovce.rodzinie The king’s family coat of armsrodziny included a raven, L.znajcordował się kruk corvus), stąd przydomek króla. Maciej vus, hence the(łac. nickname. He backed the construction of Korwin the Barwspierał budowę bardejowskiego kościoła i koszyckiej kateddejov church as well as of the Košice cathedral which took 128 ry, która była była wznoszona przez (ok. 1380–1508). years to build (approx. between 1380128 andlat1508). He died preZmarł przedwcześnie, w związku południowa wieża zamaturely – which is also why thez czym Southern (Matthias’s) tower mku zwana Wieżą Macieja nie została dokończona. was not finished. 1471 wyprawa wojennaofJagiellonów spory o tron węgierski 1471r.Military campaign the Polish iJagiellonian dynasty and po śmierciover Macieja Korwina wthrone latachafter 1490–92 przyczyniły się disputes the Hungarian Corvinus’ death laid do upadku świetności posiadłości makovickiej. the Makovica estate in 1490–92 completely to waste. 1493 Zborovnobleman staje się własnością śląskiego szlachcica 1493r.Silesian Schellemberg acquires Zborov. Schellemberga. 1522 The castle has new owners, the Šariš region family of 1522 r. zamek przechodzi w ręce z Torysy Tarczay, the lords of Torysa. Afterszaryskiej the Battlerodziny of Mohács (1526)


H I S TO R Y O F T H E C A S T L E

they supported Ján Zápoľský in the struggle for the throne. 1548 King Ferdinand I. therefore confiscates the castle. It falls into the possession of Gašpar Szerédy. In spite of the feuds with the town of Bardejov, the manor flourishes. The upper castle is adjusted, the second courtyard restructured and extended. A third (lower) courtyard boasting a polygonal, semicircular bastion and a bulwark with a gallery and crenelles is built. Additionally, a drawbridge secures the front gate. This The bailey is divided by walls, thereby allowing for better access control. Several farmhouses are built in the western section of the bailey, next to the fortification wall. This redesign creates a comfortable abode for the landlord which satisfies the most demanding conditions of its time. 1557 After the death of Gašpar Szerédy (who has a memorial beside the road from Dlhá Lúka to Bardejov where he suddenly died and is buried), his son George takes over the manor and is followed by Andrew Balassa. It is subsequently owned by the Polish magnate John of Ostrog who married the daughter of George Szerédy. 1601 John of Ostrog sells the manor together with the castle to Sigismund Rákóczi for 80,000 ducats; his descendants later paid off another 13,000. 17th C. Antihabsburg uprisings in which the Rákóczy family line plays a crucial role. 1666 Nuptials of Ferenc I. Rákóczi (1645–1676) and Ilona Zrínyi (1643–1703) at the castle. After the Wesselényi conspiracies of 1664/66 and 1670/71 are exposed, their leaders are executed. The list also includes Petar Zrínsky (1621–1671), Ilona’s father. The family line came from central Croatia, was founded in 1347 and perished with her death in 1703. Ferenc I. Rákóczi escapes decapitation (L. pœna capitis) only by way of a large ransom. He later dies in Zborov. After her husband’s death Illona Zrínyi maries another conspiracy leader, Imre Thököly, who was 14 years younger. She becomes famous through the three-year-long defence of Mukachevo castle, which is taken in 1688. She dies in Turkey. Her remains and those of her son Ferenc II. Rákóczi (1676–1735) and three companions in exile are transferred in 1906 from Rodosto, Turkey to Košice, where they rest in the cathedral crypt. 1684, 13th Oct. The imperial troops conquer the castle and seize 16 bronze and 6 iron cannons. Since then the castle has decayed. Its ruins are further damaged in WWI in the clashes between the Austro-Hungarian and Russian troops → see chapter History of the village. 1926 The castle hill is declared a protected site and in 1950 also a national nature reserve. 2010 Beginning of castle restoration → see separate chapter.


CHURCHES, CHAPELS AND MANOR HOUSES

The parish church St. Margaret of Antioch 14th C. Construction of the Gothic church. One of the foundation stones for the builders of Gothic cathedrals was the Biblical verse SED OMNIA IN MENSURA ET NUMERO ET PONDERE DISPOSUISTI – But you have ordered all things in measure, and number, and weight. Book of Wisdom (11, 20b). 1550 Two chapels are added – perpendicular to the main nave leading to the presbytery. 1662? Baroque adjustments and building of the brick tower. The Baroque is characterised by ellipses and circles which represent perfection as they have neither starting nor ending point. 1665, 5th Dec. Consecration of the church and main altar.

1635 Main altar dedicated to St. Margaret of Hungary and St. Ladislaus. Inscription: VENI SPONSA MEA, VENI CORONATE. ANNO DOMINI 1646. DIE 6. AUGUSTI (L. Come, my bride, come be crowned. AD 1646. 6th of August.) Inscription at the top: S. MICHAELIS ORA PRO NOBIS (L. St. Michael, pray for us). To the right is a painting of St. Stephen and Louis, to the left of St. Ladislaus and Emeric. Inscr. in the Chapel of the Godly Heart (right of the sanctuary):


St. Ann’s chapel is built at the former cementry located next to the church. 1625? Construction of the Rákóczi manor house. 1640 St. Sophia’s church north of the manor house is finished. 1794 Building repairs followed by another consecration; the patrocinium of St. John of Nepomuk. 1914, 25th Apr. Fire at a nearby distillery damages the bells and the tower clock. Further destrucion during WWI. 1996 For the first time in 27 years, there are missions at the parish; led by the Zborov-born pater Hilár Jozef Štefurik, OP. 2006 10th anniversary of the St. Margaret church consecration. 2011 Parish hosts missions after 15 years led by Redemptorists. The Szerédy manor house – M. Riník 1996 Photo: Ján Šurkala, 2015 In the park in the front are located six statues of notable local historical figures.

The Rákóczi manor house and the Church of St. Sophia – M. Riník 1995. Photo: Ján Šurkala, 2015 Both paintings are located at the parish house.

CHURCHES, CHAPELS AND MANOR HOUSES

Translation: Building of the the vault and the tower in AD 1662, the main altar restored in 1938, supported by the Czechoslovak Republic, in AD 1959 restored and painted 1762 New roof. The Chapel of St. John of Nepomuk is inscribed with ORA PRO NOBIS (L. Pray for us). It stands near the bridge at the intersection of the roads to Poland and Svidník.


JEWS AND THE JEWISH CEMETERY Jews began arriving at the village in larger numbers after the annexation of Galicia to Austria in 1772 with the split of Poland. This land was part of Austria-Hungary from 1867 to 1914 and spanned parts of western Ukraine and southern Poland. Approx. 8.2 million (roughly 8% of which were Jewish) inhabitants were spread across 78,500 km2. Their population in 1857 amounted to 534; in 1910 the number grew to 655 – around a quarter of the village. They were mostly employed in retail. At the beginning of the 19th C., there were a rabbinate, a synagogue, a school, a ritual bath (mikva), a slaughterhouse and a fenced cemetery.

The cemetery, which dates back to the early 1700s, also served the neighbouring villages until the Holocaust. It is located at the point where the Štúrova and Pod 100 lipami streets meet. The lively history of Zborov’s Jews ended heinously and tragically: on 15th Apr. 1942, 430 local Jews gathered in the prayer room and in the pub. After having shaved and having their hair cut, they were transported to the railway station in Bardejov and from there to Nazi extermination camps! The cemetery is a national cultural heritage site, and has been under renovation since 2011.


TWO MILITARY CEMETERIES The WWI cemetery is located on the hill, 500 m to the right of the main road in the direction of Bardejov. 136 fallen soldiers are buried here: 46 Russian fighters and 90 soldiers of the Austro-Hungarian army. It was built by the Austro-Hungarian Kriegsgräber–Kommando (German for Office for Military Cemeteries) during WWI itself.

Most of the graves at the village cemetery in which German soldiers lay were in good condition. The German War Graves Commission (www.volksbund.de) later cooperated with the municipal government and in 1991, the construction of the German WWII cemetery began. It was the first of its kind in the former Czech and Slovak Federative Republic. The WWII cemetery, located to the right of Zborov in the direction to Svidník, was opened on 19th Sep. 1992 and, divided into four sections (status: end of 2012), is the final resting place of 1,194 German soldiers.


PRESERVATION AND RECONSTRUCTION OF THE CASTLE

A group of local people and enthusiasts founded the Association for the Preservation of Zborov Castle, which was officially registered on 9th Feb. 2010, when the intensive work began, supported by various sponsors. Contact: Kellerova 13, SK-085 01 Bardejov | ☎ +421 905 700 960 www.hradzborov.sk View of Zborov


Po prawej stronie Lúka to i Bardejów Dlhá Lúka andDlhá Bardejov the right Restoration progress: 2010 Greenery; South-east of the gate tower; Eastern support wall of the SE gate tower; Wailing wall 2011 SW cannon bastion; Polygonal bastion; Blue cellar; Castle pillars 2012 Cellar in Bastion no. 8 – the oubliette; Castle wall west of the SE gate tower; Polygonal bastion no. 23 – roof 2013 Northern palace wall; Al Capone wall; Emmental wall; Husbandry building; Western palace – Gabo’s bastion 2014 SE Darina’s (cannon) bastion; Cannoneer’s wall; Heel caverns 2015 Corner house; Norse wall; Wall at the third gate; Husbandry building at the third gate


THE AMATEUR YOUTH THEATRE GROUP OF ZBOROV has represented the village since 2010. Founded by Denisa Jedináková who, together with the elementary school students, rehearsed the play Via Dolorosa. Since the autumn of 2010, the group has been led by Valéria Bodíková and Rastislav Juráši and consists of four generations of amateur thespians: children, teenagers, adults and seniors. Combined, they make up a wonderfully talented community which has performed in front of audiences not only in the district of Bardejov but also in other parts of Slovakia, such as participating in the Močenok festival (Nitra district) in 2012. Their repertoire includes religious and secular plays as well as a fairy tale for children. 2015 marked the group’s 50th performance! For more information visit: www.mdszborov.estranky.sk

A still of the play Brother Sun and sister Luna, 2010 THE ZBOROVČAN CHOIR was founded in 1968 by František Letnický. Surrounded by people who shared his love for the country, he began rehearsing hymnic, national and folk songs. The former, male-only choir showcased their talent for the first time at the Upper Šariš celebrations in Raslavice in 1969. The performance was welcomed with much appreciation. The first performance of the renewed, 30-member male-voice choir took place on 20th May 1990 at the Matica Slovenská gathering in Zborov. 1993 marked the inclusion of female vocalists. Zborovčan’s conductor since 1997 has been Miroslav Micenko. In 2001 their first CD, Missa Pastoralis, featuring Christmassy tracks came out. The second CD, Hoj, vlasť moja, consisting of hymnic, national, arranged and religious tracks was issued in 2014. Their third CD, Pašie, came out in 2014 alike. It includes Lenten- and Easter-themed songs. In 2013, Zborovčan celebrated its 45th anniversary.

Author of this chapter: Valéria Bodíková Photos by: Rastislav Juráši

2014


HIKING TRAILS Hervartov Bardejov Spa Prešov

Dlhá Lúka

Bardejov

Kľušovská Zábava

Kurima Bardejovská N. Ves

PL

Svidník Zborov Zborov Castle

Zborov – Castle Trail length: 1,5 km | duration: 25 min. | difficulty: medium Bardejov Spa – Dlhá Lúka – Castle Trail length: 6 km | duration: 2 hrs. | difficulty: medium Zborov (yellow trail) – Bardejov Spa / The SNP Heroes route (red) – Bardejov Trail length: 18 km | duration: 5 hrs. | difficulty: medium Zborov (red) – Stebnická Magura (red; intersection with the blue trail) – Bardejov Spa (red) – Bardejov Trail length: 24 km | duration: 7 hrs. | difficulty: medium CYCLE TRAILS Zborov – Svidník – Dukla (The Valley of Death – the Memorial to the victims of WWII) Trail length: 42 km | difficulty: medium Zborov – Dlhá Lúka – Castle Trail length: 6 km | difficulty: medium Zborov – Bardejovská N. Ves – Kurima (St. Michael the Archangel’s church, two chapels and a neo-Classical manor house) Trail length: 24 km | difficulty: easy Zborov – Bardejov – Kľušovská Zábava – Hervartov (a UNESCO church) Trail length: 19 km | difficulty: easy We also recommend the maps: SHO Cart PIENINY, SEVERNÝ SPIŠ, ŠARIŠ, M 1:100 000 BARDEJOV, BARDEJOVSKÉ KÚPELE, M 1:10 000 Mapa okolia 1:50 000, VKÚ Harmanec


ZBOROV

400 km

200 km

The coat of arms symbolises the attributes of the churchpatron: St. Margaret of Antioch.

Number of inhabitants: 3292 (as of 1. 1. 2015) – an increase of 292 persons since 2008. | Altitude: 326 m | Distances in km from ZBOROV: –Bardejov: 10; –Polish border: 10; –Svidník: 25; –Preťov: 52; –Koťice: 87; –Krzywcza (partner village in Poland): 135

Zborov boasts five national cultural heritage sites: t 4U "OO T DIBQFM th century), t 4UBUVF PG 4U +PIO PG /FQPNVL t +FXJTI DFNFUFSZ Č” TFF DIBQUFS Jews and the Jewish Cementry, t 3PNBO $BUIPMJD DIVSDI PG 4U 4PQIJB t 'PSNFS (PUIJD 3PNBO $BUIPMJD DIVSDI EFEJDBUFE UP 4U .BSHBSFU PG Antioch (†305? during the Diocletian persecution of the Christians in Asia Minor (now Turkey). She is one of the Fourteen Holy Helpers who were highly revered in the Middle Ages. Zborov is also the most populous village of the MAKOVICA region which includes 17 other villages. The region office is based at the Municipal office. www.makovica.eu Bardejov Spa is a mere 10 km south of the town. Its precious mineral waters are particularly useful in the treatment of the digestive tract and the circulatory system www.kupele-bj.sk | ☎ +421 54 / 477 42 45. The author took the liberty of creating this pure Latin chronogram. The sum of the red characters symbolises the publication year.

VICVS ZBOROV QVOQVE VETVS CASTELLVM ITA LAVS! VIATOR, CERTE VENI ATQVE REDI!

The village of ZBOROV and the old castle Therefore glory!, traveller, come visit and return!

∑= 5xI+ 12xV+ 0xX+ 3xL+ 3xC+ 1xD+ 1xM = 2015 Main source of information: ZBOROV, History of the village and of the Makovica manor, Zborov 2005 and The Society for Saving and Renovation of the Zborov Castle, www.hradzborov.sk, The Zborov Chronicle

Š Jozef SoroÄ?in | www.issuu.com/VydSorocinJ Š Photos: Peter OlekĹĄĂĄk | peter.oleksak@centrum.sk Š Layout+Transl.: Jozef SoroÄ?in Jr. | www.about.me/sorocin Š For the village of Zborov, LesnĂĄ 10, SK-086 33 ZBOROV ☎ +421 54/ 4798-306 | www.zborov.sk, published by: Jozef SoroÄ?in, JSL, Martina RĂĄzusa 1848/6, SK-071 01 Michalovce | sorocin23@gmail.com Š Printed by: Rotaprint, s. r. o. #BSĘŠJBOTLB 4, ,PĂ?JDF t


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