4 minute read
DAY 1: AJACCIO WALKING TOUR
• Distance: 3.2 km
• Starting Point: Musée Fesch
• Finishing Point: Bois des Anglais
Corsica's capital Ajaccio is an intoxicating place. Classy and confident, it has more than a little in common with the cities of the Cote d'Azur. There is an interesting centre and a bustling marina. In 1769, this was the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte, a largerthan-life figure who still looms large here. There are plenty of sites related to this historic figure, as well as a range of other sites and museums.
GPS: 41.9192, 8.7386
If you decided to hire a car at the airport, then you may be able to park at your accommodation in Ajaccio. If you need to find somewhere to park, there is parking opposite the main tourist information office, which is located on the D111A (GPS: 41.919821, 8.738308). From the tourist information office, head north on the D111A (Boulevard du Roi Jérôme), then turn left onto Rue Jérôme Péri after 180 m. Turn right onto Rue Cardinal Fesch and you will find the starting point for your walking tour on the right after around 37 m.
The fine arts museum, Musée Fesch, is one of the main cultural hubs in Ajaccio. It houses the painting and sculpture collection of Cardinal Joseph Fesch, Napoleon I's uncle. Here you will find a fine range of art within a grand, gated palace.
Musée Fesch, 50-52 Rue Cardinal Fesch // GPS: 41.9219, 8.7389 // See website for opening hours // Paid entry // www.musee-fesch.com/index.php/musee_fesch/English
Turn right upon exiting the museum and you will see the Imperial Chapel, which forms the southern flank of the square on which you will find yourself.
To the right of Fesch Palace you will find this Imperial Chapel. It was commissioned by emperor Napoleon III at the behest of the will of his great uncle, Cardinal Fesch, and consecrated in 1860. The design was by architect Alexis Paccard, and the structure was erected between 1857 and 1859 for a total cost of 175,000 francs
GPS: 41.9219, 8.7389 // http://en.infotourisme.net/monument/ajaccio/6565/chapelle-imperiale
Head south on Rue Cardinal Fesch and you will reach Place Foch. You will see a fountain ahead of you.
This square, also commonly known as Piazza Palmiers in honour of the palm trees that skirt its borders is one of the city’s main squares. It takes the name Place Foch from a well-known French field general. This is a preferred meeting place for the city’s residents. It is flanked by the City Hall and has at its centre a large statue of Napoleon Bonaparte. In July and August you can see the changing of the guard. There is also a produce market here where fresh goods can be purchased
GPS: 41.918922, 8.738725 // www.visit-corsica.com/en/Our-favorites/Towns-and-villages/Place-Foch-in-Ajaccio
Once you have had a good look around the square and market, head to the southwest of the square and take Rue Bonaparte, heading southeast. After 63 m, turn right onto Rue Saint-Charles, and you will see your next destination on your left after around 30 m.
Maison Bonaparte is the ancestral home of the Bonaparte family. It was owned by that family almost continuously from 1682 – 1923. The home was first owned by Napoleon Bonaparte's great-great-grandfather Guiseppe. Descendant Prince Victor Napoleon donated the house to the French government, and it was made into a museum in 1967.
Maison Bonaparte, Rue Saint-Charles// GPS: 41.9180, 8.7386 // See website for opening hours // Paid entry // http://musees-nationaux-malmaison.fr/musee-maisonbonaparte/
Walk southwest on Rue Saint-Charles and then after 110 m, turn left onto Rue Forcioli Conti, and the cathedral will be on your left.
Ajaccio Cathedral, officially called the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption of Ajaccio, is an ecclesiastical building in the baroque/mannerist style. The cathedral that stands today was constructed between 1577 and 1593. It is attributed to the Italian architect Giacomo della Porta.
Ajaccio Cathedral, Rue Forcioli Conti // GPS: 41.9173, 8.7378
Walk southeast on Rue Forcioli Conti for 150 m, and you will see the citadel ahead of you.
Without a doubt one of the most interesting of Ajaccio's historical sites, the Chemin des crêtes Citadelle was built on the location of a former fort in 1492, when a number of Genoese and Ligurian families including the Bonapartes founded a colony. In its earliest iteration, the complex was made up of a citadel and a low curtain wall. It was later enhanced with stronger defensive structures. The citadelle belonged to the Ministry of Defence until it came under the ownership of the city of Ajaccio in 2005.
GPS: 41.9164, 8.7392
If you wanted to at this stage, you could take a break on the beach below. However, if you would rather continue your explorations, retrace your steps to the northwest along the Rue Forcioli Conti. Pass the cathedral and continue on, remaining on that road for about 210 m before turning right into Avenue Eugène Macchini. After 120 m, turn left onto Avenue de Paris (D11). As you walk west you will see the Place de Gaulle to your left.
The Napoleonic theme of this city continues at the busy square, the Place de Gaulle, which has at its heart a monument to Napoleon and his four brothers. The monument was constructed in 1965. Originally, the monument faced towards the sea, though a few years after it was placed there, it was turned to face the town.
GPS: 41.9180, 8.7360
Continue to walk along Avenue de Paris (D11) and follow the D11 for around 1.1 km, then enter the Place d'Austerlitz to take a look at La Grotte de Napoléon.
At Place d'Austerlitz, you will find another monument to Napoleon, a statue modelled after the one found in Les Invalides. It is the work of the sculptor Seurre. The monument was placed here in 1938, where, it is said, Napoleon used to spend time as a child. It recalls the emperor’s victories and achievements.
GPS: 41.916417, 8.723626
Keep walking alongside the D11 for around 400 m, then turn left at the roundabout and follow signs for Bois des Anglais. From here you have access to a far-reaching network of hiking paths.
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A pleasant trail, Sentiers des Cretes will allow you to leave behind the hustle and bustle of the city centre and enjoy some quiet in the woods. A gentle hike is the perfect way to end your day in Ajaccio. Take a short walk to the Bois des Anglais (Woods of the English) or walk farther to reach a number of interesting scenic spots.
GPS: 41.918189, 8.724940
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That concludes your walking tour of Ajaccio, but you should be sure to spend plenty of time enjoying all the hiking trails that spread out from the town. Remember to cover your head and bring plenty of water with you when the weather is warm, especially at the height of summer, when it can be very hot.