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DAY 2: AJACCIO > CALVI

Today you will leave Ajaccio behind and make your way northwards up Corsica’s meandering west coast. You will see some breathtaking scenery and the unspoiled natural beauty of much of this fascinating island. What is more, you will pass through settlements and see the blend of old and new that make this place what it is today.

• Distance: 182 km

• Starting Point: Ajaccio

• Finishing Point: Calvi

• Highlights:

• Cathedral of Sant’Appiano

• Cargèse

• Chiuni Beach

• Calanche of Piana

• Capo d’Orto

• Porto

• Scandola Nature Reserve

• Spelunca Gorges

• Osani

• Galèria

To reach your first destination, join the D81 to the north of Ajaccio and follow that for 36.6 km before taking a right turn into Sagone. The town itself is largely a modern tourist town built around its beautiful beach. Just one km north of Sagone, however, you will find one remnant of thisplace’s past the ruins of Sant' Appiano Cathedral.

The ancient Cathedral of Sant’Appiano, now in ruins, was built in the Romanesque style. It dates from the 12th century and was built on top of an earlier Christian church. The cathedral was devastated by pirates in the 16th century. Once the cathedral was said to have contained the preserved remains of Saint Appian, though these relics were transported to Pavia to keep them safe from Saracen invaders in the 12th century. Archaeologists have found fifty skeletons here that date from the 11th century.

 GPS: 42.118398, 8.690132

Rejoin the D81 and follow that road for just over 13 km to reach your next destination, the town of Cargèse.

Cargèse is one of the picturesque towns dotted along this stretch of coastline. The town perches on the hillside above a beautiful bay. The town was established at the end of the 18th century by a group of descendants of Greek immigrants who had settled elsewhere on Corsica a hundred years before. This tourist town is famous for its two 19thcentury churches, which face each other across a small valley. One was built by descendents of the Greek immigrants, the other by native Corsicans.

Of course there are beautiful beaches all along this coastline, but your next stop is generally regarded as one of the most appealing. To reach it, head north on the D81 for 5 6 km, then turn left. After 1 km more, take a slight right. Turn right after 600 m, and your destination will be on the left.

Chiuni Beach, a pleasant, sandy beach is bordered by mastic shrubs and has a quiet feel, in spite of the holiday village to its rear. Here, you can relax and enjoy the sun or indulge in some more active water-based activities. This is a pleasant place to break up your road trip.

 GPS: 42.170311, 8.591277

Return to the D81 once more and continue for 12 8 km or so, and you will find yourself in Piana, the starting point for exploration of the stunningly scenic Calanches of Piana

At the Calanches of Piana, dramatic inlets of red stone rise sharply into interesting rock formations and towering spires along this stretch of coastline, jutting up in stark and beautiful contrast to the sparkling blue waters below. These calanches truly make up one of the most dramatic and exciting landscapes on the island, and their granite edifices must be seen to be believed.

 GPS: 42.2455, 8.6535

If you wish to explore a little more deeply and are up for a hike, then the Capo d'Orto, the second highest summit of the Calanches of Piana offers not only a chance to see some of the rocky landscape up close but also to enjoy wonderful views over the whole region. Trails lead from Piana to the summit of Capo d'Orto.

Capo d'Orto rises only to a height of 1,294 m, and so it is certainly not one of the grandest mountains out there. However, this peak, one of the red granite edifices of the Calanches de Piana, makes it something truly special, with staggering views. It rises steeply above the Gulf of Porto and offers views out over the awe-inspiring area. This is a challenging hike, but those with less time, energy, or experience can choose many other less challenging hikes in the vicinity.

 GPS: 42.226637, 8.688758// Information at Tourist Information Office in Piana

Once you have had a good look at the Calanches of Piana and perhaps enjoyed a hike, return to your car in Piana and continue on the D81 into Porto.

The small village of Porto is a charming spot, nestled on the coast with a spectacular mountainous and rocky backdrop. This is a place that can get very busy in the height of summer, but even when the crowds descend, it still has a pleasant feel. Here you will find a watchtower built in the 16th century that contains a small museum, and a lovely marina and town beach.

 GPS: 42.265602, 8.706117

From Porto (book a trip in the small marina) or Galéria, you can take a boat ride to see the coastline of the Scandola Nature Reserve, which is not very accessible by land. This is the best way to enjoy the unspoiled beauty and nature of this part of the island.

The Scandola Nature Reserve, a part of the Corsica National Park, was established in 1975. It is also recognised as a world heritage site. The area covers 19 2 km², an area comprising both land and sea. The area's inaccessibility by road means that by far the ideal way to see the best of it is a boat trip around the coastline. Many beautiful caves and coves dot the cliffs and headlands, and spectacular natural sites are seen at every turn.

 GPS: 42.356944, 8.566667 // http://parc-corse.org

Next, you will head inland from Porto to visit the Spelunca Gorges. To do so, head east from Porto on the D124. You will get to the Gorges of Spelunca through lovely scenery in around 7 km.

Even if you are not a particularly keen hiker, you should still make sure you take the time to enjoy another of Corsica's most stunningly beautiful landscapes. The Gorges de Spelunca are usually explored from Ota, heading in the direction of Evisa, or vice versa. An old mule track leads between the two villages. Bring a picnic to enjoy in one of the scenic spots along the way.

 GPS: 42.2546, 8.7655

Complete your loop by continuing on the D124 and then taking the D84 back to Porto. From there, head north to Osani, following D81 on its winding way for around 21 km, after which you will be able to turn left into a car park and walk to the beautiful little village and to a viewpoint.

If you are looking for a nice beach on which to relax, in Osani take route D424 and drive a south for about 4 km. Try the beach, Plage de Gradelle, near Osani. This small beach of pebbles and rocks is very pleasant to visit. It has amazing views of the Calanches (GPS: 42.303091,8.647348)

The tiny, picturesque village of Osani will give you a taste of the unspoiled Corsica, free from tourist crowds and little changed in a long, long time. Simply stroll through this tiny settlement and enjoy the breathtaking views from the nearby viewpoint Inland Corsica moves at a slower pace, so take your time and enjoy the tranquillity.

 GPS: 42.3244, 8.6323

To reach your penultimate destination for the day, return to the D81 and follow it north once more for just over 25 km. Continue straight onto the D351, then after 3.3 km, you will reach the little village of Galéria.

Galéria is one of the small tourist villages scattered along the Corsican coast. It has a pebble beach, which is unusual for the island, so the water is especially clear. Here you will also find a pleasant harbour, a church, a Genoese tower, and coastal paths leading along the shoreline for lovely strolls or longer hikes.

 GPS: 42.4089, 8.6482

Return along the D351 to the D81 and then simply continue on the D81 for a further 31 km to reach the beautiful seaside resort of Calvi, where you will find plenty of wonderful places to stay for the night. Don't worry if you have no time left to explore today you will have all day tomorrow to acquaint yourself with this charming part of Corsica.

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