Boyds Spring 2008 Issue

BOYDS

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SPRING 2008

WHAT ’S NEW FOR SPRING

PREFERRED CUSTOMER

GIFT CARDS

ENCLOSED See page 32

BOLDER COLORS

SAFARI STYLINGS SOFT HUES &

NAUTICAL CHIC

Zero to 100 IN A BLUR:

the morgan aeromax

boyds philadelphia guide to style SINGLE-MALT SENSATION THE GLENROTHES GUCCI, CANALI, BRIONI, CATHERINE MALANDRINO, LANVIN, MANOLO BLAHNIK, AKRIS PUNTO, ZAC POSEN & many more

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Incomparable selection of brand new and certified pre-owned vehicles.

Attractive lease and finance solutions available.

100 Route 73, Palmyra, New Jersey • Call Toll Free 888-738-0014 visit www.FCKerbeck.com BOYDS_Spring.indd 3

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Cheap Trick: Santa Monica, CA Photographed by Danny Clinch, 2008

j o h nv a r v a t o s . c o m

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W W W. R O B E RT TA L B O T T. C O M

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BOSS 0166/S

HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone 212 940 0600

are brands distributed by

NEW YORK 646.492.5047 - www.slowear.com

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Page 12

{ contents }

64

features AUTOMOTIVE

/

Beauty Marque

For nearly a century, Britain’s Morgan Motor Company has custom-built classic sports cars for a discerning few. Why change what works? ~-~

58

T R AV E L

Paradise Perfected: Bora Bora

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Unspoiled and breathtakingly beautiful, the famous Pacific island is now surprisingly easy to reach. ~-~ ~-~

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FASHION

94

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The Bold & the Beautiful For a spring with zing, designers offer clean-lined black-and-white attire with punches of primary hues. ~-~ ~-~

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Urban Safari Take metropolitan sophistication and add a hint of the exotic.

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Color Me Softly Amour is abundant with these sweetly subtle ensembles.

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SPRING · SUMMER 2008

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~-~

Bon Voyage Set sail for a chic spring with your pick of seafaring styles.

Below is the Aero 8 American, one of the classic, go-fast cars from Morgan Motor Company. The MacHay floral print shirt, directly above, is the perfect summer attire for a jaunt in your Aero 8.

~-~

58

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106

~-~

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IKE S “CLIPPED SHIRT”

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{ contents }

columns Malt Vintage Speyside Scotland’s richly prolific Glenrothes distillery saves a bit of its creamy treasure to be savored singlemalt style.

30

130

127

departments Invitation to Style Welcome to a magazine that’s all about you.

22

The Boyds Guide The romance of cashmere . . .

Celeb-worthy denim . . .

Custom shirts to suit your whim . . . Jets on demand . . .

Waking up the Philly night . . . and more!

29

MEET

THE

DESIGNER:

John Varvatos 130

A favorite of rock stars, John shares what’s on his iPod, where he gets inspired and what clothing matters most today.

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42

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SPRING · SUMMER 2008

ICON:

Fitness

Gary Cooper

Hanging with the SEALs

Hollywood’s quintessential soft-spoken hero had the world under his spell.

Can a few nylon parachute straps with rubber handles make your workout portable? The Navy says yes.

126

134

MAN OF STYLE:

Jim Lowe Neurosurgeon, auto racer and savvy shopper Jim Lowe gives a peek inside his closet.

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Horoscope You’re thinking of wearing that? First consult Kiki, who uses the zodiac to help you make sound style choices.

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40 32

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alfred dunhill, equipping gentlemen since 1893.

sentryman family a new family of writing instruments and accessories, inspired by the iconic british pillar box

Š 2007 alfred dunhill

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Page 22

B O Y D S

{ invitation to style }

1818 CHESTNUT STREET · PHILADELPHIA

2 1 5 . 5 6 4 . 9 0 0 0 w w w. b o y d s p h i l a . c o m

9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

THURSDAY to SATURDAY: 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

MONDAY & TUESDAY: WEDNESDAY:

Editor & Publisher MARK DOWDEN

IT’S

ALL

ABOUT

YOU

Creative Director AMY A. DOWDEN Fashion Editors MICHAEL CUTONE, SEAN GENERAL

Associate Fashion Editor

You’re holding the premiere issue

CHRISTINA SERAFINE

of BOYDS magazine, a new benefit

Contributing Editors CYNTHIA HURLEY,

for friends of our Philadelphia store.

RUTH A. KATZ, MARIA LISSANDRELLO, FRANCESCA MOISIN, KIKI T.

Boyds has always been about cus-

Contributing Photographers

tomer service, and the magazine is

MICHAEL DOUCETTE, MICHAEL DWORNIK, DANIEL SPRINGSTON

just one more expression of that

Associate Art Director EILEEN CRABILL

commitment. Like free valet park-

Art Assistant LAURA CARAMAGNA

ing and in-store tailoring, the maga-

Corporate Editorial Director RITA GUARNA

zine exists, quite simply, to make your shopping experience easier.

To create BOYDS magazine, we

Boyds’ third-generation owners pose in the atrium of the store (left to right: Kent Gushner, Ralph Yaffe

PEEKS

JENNIFER DOSS

Advertising Sales Assistant

men’s and women’s catalogs into a series of fashion spreads. In

ASHLEY MCFADDEN

these features, you’ll find dozens of inspiring outfits and acces-

Production Manager CHRISTINE HAMEL

sories for spring and summer, all of which are now in stock.

Advertising Services Manager THOMAS RAGUSA

Next we added inside information for Boyds customers, such

Advertising Coordinator KATHY GJOKAJ

as a sneak peek at the renovation of our second floor and a pre-

Production Assistant CHRISTINA FALLIVENE

view of upcoming trunk shows.

Senior Art Director, Agency Services

In addition to the best clothing and accessories, BOYDs magWatch it!

see page 29

SHAE MARCUS

Advertising Account Executive

and Jeff Glass).

began by transforming our seasonal Sneak

National Advertising Manager

KIJOO KIM

azine is covering other aspects of personal style that dovetail with

Art Associate, Agency Services FRANCESCA MOLLANO

the world of fashion. These include the most stylish cars to drive,

Accounting SUSAN CASEY, ALAN KULA, MAGDALENA SZARGUT

local hot spots where you can see and be seen, luxury travel destinations—even elegant ways to fill your glass.

Elsewhere in this issue, for instance, you’ll read about the

Published by w wainscot

sexy new Aeromax sports car from Morgan Motor Company, a

Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN

sizzling nightclub on Rittenhouse Square, the island paradise of

President MARK DOWDEN

Bora Bora and a velvety single malt called the Glenrothes, among

Executive Vice President GEORGE W. SLOWIK JR.

other pleasures.

Senior Vice President EDWARD BURNS

And there’s another kind of buried treasure in these pages:

Vice Presidents GRACE BEHRENS, AMY A. DOWDEN, NIGEL EDELSHAIN, RITA GUARNA, SUZANNE TRON

Preferred Customer Gift Cards for men and women. Together, these gift cards have a value of $500—a very tangible benefit to

Regional Sales Director

receiving BOYDS magazine!

DOUGLAS C. BARKER

As we prepare to celebrate the 70th anniversary of Boyds, Black & white— chic all over

see page 76

Director of Marketing CHRISTOPHER KAEFER

we extend our thanks to the three groups that have made our

Circulation Director LAUREN MENA

success possible: loyal customers like you; our expert staff,

Controller SHANNON STEITZ

whose mission is to serve you; and our 100-plus vendor brands, who keep us supplied with the best clothing, shoes and acces-

BOYDS Magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Boyds. Copyright © 2008

by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved.

sories available anywhere.

We look forward to seeing you soon.

KENT GUSHNER

R A L P H YA F F E

JEFF GLASS

Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, BOYDS, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com.

The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions.

Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Boyds, 1818 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103; telephone 215.564.9000.

22

Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com. /

SPRING · SUMMER 2008

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Page 29

Brioni: a favorite of leading men Leading men of Hollywood have long favored Brioni for its suits and sportcoats. Clark Gable, Gary Cooper, John Wayne and Kirk Douglas were early clients. In 1994, Pierce Brosnan’s James

{ the

boyds guide }

Bond abandoned Savile Row for the Roman maker; Brioni has been dressing Bond ever since.

What is it that makes Brioni garments among the best in the world? The fabrics, styling, cut and construction are all superb, and somehow add up to the ability to make any man look trimmer, taller, fitter. A Brioni suit takes what God gave you and appears to perfect it.

What’s more, the detailing and handwork are utterly precise.

To ensure perfection, Brioni trains its people at its own schools. A seamstress, for example, studies for two years before she is permitted to craft a buttonhole.

While best known for its tailored ines, Brioni is represented at Boyds by a full range of men’s clothing, including neckties, belts and other wardrobe staples. We’ll be happy to show you the collection.

Master of Complications Time is on Franck Muller’s side. The world’s most celebrated watchmaker has not yet turned 50 (that milestone

The Paisley Path

to Glory

will occur this July 11). But in a field where the most famous brands are centuries old, already Muller has built one of the top brands of luxury watches—

HIGH QUALITY

fabrics in

punched-up prints and offbeat

the one that bears his name. On more than one occasion he has unveiled a

color combinations—such is the

new timepiece that has been pro-

hallmark of fashion powerhouse

claimed “the most complicated

Etro, best known for its sassy ’80s

wristwatch in the world.” And as

paisleys. Not for the fashion meek,

he adds ever-more inventive

this bold brand’s spring looks encour-

watches to his range, Muller

age flights of fancy, thanks to brother-

exudes the aura of an inventor

and-sister design team Kean and Veronica Etro. For the men, Kean serves up paisleys (right), floral prints, jungleinspired hues and a range of jaunty bowties, while Veronica’s ladies’ line, as seen at left,

and businessman who is “just getting started.”

Recently

the

Master

of

Complications himself was hosted at a reception at G by Govberg

has been aptly described as “kaleidoscopic”—

Jewelers. With its celebrated shop located directly inside

chock full of bright tones, flowing fabrics and

the front entrance of Boyds, Govberg is Philadelphia’s

cinched waistlines.

only authorized dealer of Franck Muller watches.

SPRING · SUMMER 2008

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{ the

boyds guide }

The romance of cashmere Style alert: Cashmere can be fashion-forward. Ladies, if your stash of the super-soft knit is relegated to plain-Jane cardigans and scarves, check out the playful designs by the folks at Autumn

Cashmere.

Ruffled

necklines, puffed sleeves, bright colors and modern silhouettes give this classic fabric that extra “something special.” Adding to its appeal is high-quality crafts-

G love

manship: Autumn’s own production facilities ensure that each

Scenesters who are oh-so-over quietly sipping cocktails in swanky but

sweet piece is a well-constructed

deadly dull lounges will cheer the arrival of Philadelphia’s G nightclub. If its

wardrobe staple as well as a

tagline alone—“technologically injected pure bliss”—doesn’t set your

fashion delight.

body in motion, a visit to G surely will. Beyond the top-tier DJs and drinks, the 10,000-square-foot space pulses thanks to an abundance of 65-inch LCD screens and its “electronic wallpaper”—a 55-foot wall that flashes morphing colors and patterns. Not just for club kids, G (which is co-owned

by Boyds) caters to business types in its exclusive Mogul Room, where

Recommended reading

members can wheel and deal in luxury—and privacy—as the main-floor

Swimming with sea turtles in Tahiti.

party rages on.

Hunting for truffles near Turin. Hiking along the winding waterways of

Sole provider

Madeira, Portugal. These are just a few of the adventures detailed in Journeys

The right shoe at the right time. In the town of Corridonia, Italy, 20 craftsmen overseen by Andrea Santoni create some of the most exciting and beautiful shoes ever offered. Every detail is thoroughly reviewed by Andrea and each shoe that meets his approval carries the Santoni name. Known for its timeless classics Santoni also offers dress-own loafers and sneakers with a twist.

of a Lifetime: 500 of the World’s Greatest Trips ($40 from National Geographic). Each page of this lavish volume pairs striking photos with expert advice on planning your jaunt.

Have a read—and keep your passport at the ready!

Private jets made easy

30

Tired of wasting hours in airports? Just as there’s a spectrum of fashion choices between the T-shirt and the tux, so there is middle ground for frequent fliers not ready to purchase their own plane. Since 2001 Marquis Jet has offered a flexible alternative to chartering for those airborne less than 50 hours per year.

Purchase a Marquis Jet Card, starting at $126,900, and you’ll get 25 hours of piloted flight time, with guaranteed round-the-clock availability, 365 days a year. Choose from 10 aircraft types in the nearly 740-strong NetJets fleet of managed aircraft (average age of five years) owned by Warren Buffett’s Berkshire Hathaway. You can take off and land at thousands of airports across the U.S. and Europe at your slightest whim (as little as 10 hours advance notice required)—all with unmatched safety and convenience, no maintenance worries or long-term obligation.

“The typical customer uses the jet card for personal trips rather than business,” says Seth Zlotkin, vice president of the company. “Avoiding airport waits, avoiding surprises—in effect buying time in their lives—these are the big motivators,” he explains. Zlotkin, who is based in Philadelphia, strives to bring a high level of personalized, boutique service to his clients, catering to their gourmet preferences, family care and other touches.

Keep an eye out for Marquis Jet in the months to come: The company has partnered with Boyds to co-sponsor in-store events in 2008. Meantime, if you can’t wait to learn more, contact Seth Zlotkin at 215-462-0720 or szlotkin@marquisjet.com. /

SPRING · SUMMER 2008

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JEFF ARCH RENDERING

{ the

boyds guide } Suit yourself IN CANALI Some say the devil is in the details, but we respectfully disagree.

For it’s the exquisite attention to detail that makes a handtailored Canali suit seem truly heaven-sent. The jacket, for example, is fully canvassed, never fused. Both the canvas and outer fabric are basted prior to being sewn, which builds elasticity and shape into the garment. The shoulders are shaped with cotton-wool and horsehair wadding, which is inserted in a way that facilitates future modification for an individualized fit. Canali jackets are renowned for being, as they say, “a pleasure to wear,” and these hidden struc-

Operation

transformation

tural elements are part of the reason.

The details you can see are notable. Each

When renovations are completed this

10 of the world’s top brands: Armani

fall, even longtime customers may not

Collezioni, Brioni, Burberry, Canali,

recognize the new second floor at

Ermenegildo Zegna, Hickey Freeman,

the new, ultra-lightweight super

Boyds, the latest project in the store’s

Isaia, Kiton, Ravazzolo and Trussini.

200s wool, with buttons made

three-phase redesign. The new second

of corozo, horn and mother-of-

floor will be home to Boyds “shops” for

pearl. Working buttons at the

dress shirts, ties, accessories and custom

base of the sleeves add a con-

shirts—plus a drinks bar and a VIP room.

suit is crafted in Italy of only the world’s finest materials, such as cashmere, pure bemberg and

Michael Clayton into your DVD player and be riveted by George Clooney’s electric performance and his Canali suits and sportcoats.

Treasure in the trunk

and elegant, with bright walls, cabinets made of light-finished wood such as

summate touch of luxury.

Need more convincing? Pop

White describes the new secondfloor space, pictured here, as airy, modern

“This will be a discreet, comfortable area for private shopping and made-to-measure fittings,” explains

walnut and maple, and soft halogen lighting. The design team will also expose and

Peter White, senior designer at

retain some of the original 1907

Barteluce Architects & Associates.

architecture, such as an antique

Boyds’ expanded made-to-measure

fireplace.

service for men now features

Just what is a trunk show? To start, it’s not

be on hand to offer their

about luggage. In the old

fit and fabrics:

expertise with styling,

days of fashion retailing, manufacturers’ representa-

Allen Edmonds Men’s Shoes

tives would visit stores

SATURDAY, APRIL 12

with trunks full of their latest creations. Store owners would choose the items

Armani Collezioni Women’s

customers wanted

THURSDAY, APRIL 24, THROUGH

most. Today, we do

SATURDAY, APRIL 26

most of our selection at designers’ showrooms, but trunk shows live on.

Here are some of the trunk shows coming up at Boyds.

David Rodriguez Women’s fall ’08 fashions THURSDAY, APRIL 10, THROUGH SATURDAY, APRIL 12

Please join us for these Allen Edmonds

special presentations of the exclu-

sive fabrics and fine fit of

Doo.Ri Women’s fall ’08 fashions

Santoni

THURSDAY, APRIL 3, THROUGH SATURDAY, APRIL 5

“designer name” clothing.

Vendor representatives will 32

Santoni Men’s Shoes WEDNESDAY, APRIL 16

/

SPRING · SUMMER 2008

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Page 34

{ the

boyds guide }

Shirts so

In the art of shirt making, greatness is

GOOD

achieved through four elements—fabric, design, quality of construction and fit. Only a few shirt makers, committed

to excellence in all four areas, turn out a product that truly can Women who appreciate their denim stripped of embellishments have a friend indeed in J Brand jeans. Since 2005, the company has produced clean-lined jeans of exceptional quality in both classic and contemporary cuts. You can highlight your curves with the company’s celebrated slim styles—from “skinny” to “pencil” to “cigarette”—adored by the likes of Angelina Jolie and Gwyneth Paltrow. But J Brand’s newest love is its wide-leg offerings, which recall the ’40s-style elegance of Kate Hepburn and Lauren Bacall, but with a decidedly up-to-the-moment twist. For a modern classic, try the slightly flared “Love Story” jean, heralded by many a fashionista as— can it be so?—that elusive perfect fit.

be called world class. Among them is the famous Neapolitan firm of Isaia.

Isaia uses the finest fabrics in myriad patterns and colors (some 500 to choose from), embraces a modern aesthetic when it comes to design, and sews extra strength into each shirt (collars are carefully hand stitched to remain crisp and erect; a hand-sewn tab at each cuff gauntlet prevents tears; a small reinforcement triangle firmly holds together the front and

My BLUE heaven

Samurai NOSH

back panels.

Now Boyds offers its customers the chance to “improve on perfection” with Isaia’s custom service. You can choose fabric, color, pattern and design details, and your shirt will be made to your exact measurements for a flawless fit—giving you a dress shirt that is not only world class in its quality but also a unique reflection of your personal taste.

Dedicated to a

Fans know it simply as “Raw,” but the full name is 1225 Raw Sushi & Sake Lounge. Housed in the landmark Stetson Hat build-

perfect fit

ing on Sansom Street, Raw is favored for its over-the-top maki,

Old-world tailors may seem like a

Asian-accented hot dishes (try the wasabi fries), inventive sake

vanishing breed, but they’re a com-

cocktails and hip, casual atmosphere.

mon sight at Boyds. We maintain

Soon the trademark fare, drinks and relaxed vibe will be on

an in-store tailor shop of 50 crafts-

tap at Boyds: A branch of Raw is opening in the store this sum-

men and craftswomen, who ensure

mer. If you’ve ever hit the Ginza in Tokyo, you already know:

that every garment purchased

Sushi, sake and shopping are a most sat-

here fits just right. In fact, our

isfying combination!

service includes complimentary realterations, should any be required, for up to a year after purchase.

34

/

SPRING · SUMMER 2008

EXQUISITE DIAMOND JEWELRY GOVBERG JEWELERS AT BOYDS, 1818 CHESTNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA, 215.546.6505 GOVBERG JEWELERS, 292 MONTGOMERY AVENUE, BALA CYNWYD, 610.664.1715

WWW.GOVBERGWATCHES.COM

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Page 36

{ the

boyds guide }

THE

A - to - Z LIST

Nothing to wear? Lucky you! With oodles of offerings from these 100+ top-name design houses, and an expert staff ready to guide your selections, Boyds will stock your closet with many an outfit to be proud of.

AG Jeans

C’N’C Costume National Jimmy Choo

René Caovilla

Akris Punto

D.Exterior

John Varvatos

Robert Graham

Alfred Dunhill

David Rodriguez

Joseph Abboud

Robert Rodriguez

Alice + Olivia

Diane Von Furstenberg

Just Cavalli

Robert Talbott

Allen Edmonds

Dolce & Gabbana

Karta

Rock & Republic

Andrew Marc

Dolcepunta

Kooba

Salvatore Ferragamo

Anne Claire

Doo.Ri

Lanvin

Santoni

Armani Collezioni

Elie Tahari

Lorenzini

See by Chloé

Autumn Cashmere

Equilibrio

M Missoni

Seven Jeans

Axis

Ermenegildo Zegna

MacHay

Stuart Weitzman

Badgley Mischka

Eton

Magnanni

Ted Baker

Bailey 44

Etro

Manolo Blahnik

Theory

Basile

Foley & Corinna

Maria Di Ripabianca

Tory Burch

Behnaz Sarafpour

Giambattista Valli

Maria Sartini

Trafalgar

Belford

Gran Sasso

Martin Gordon

True Religion

Bo’em

Gucci

Milly

Trussini

Bolgheri

Gunex

Moreschi

Vera Wang Lavender

Boss Jeans

Hamilton Shirts

Moschino Cheap & Chic

Versace

Botiker

Helmut Lang

Narciso Rodriguez

Victorinox Swiss Army

Bottega Veneta

Hervé Léger

Oliver Sweeney

Whim

Boyds Custom Shirts

Hickey Freeman

Paul & Shark

Winslowe & Krik

Brian Atwood

Hilary Radley

Paul Smith

Zac Posen

Brioni

Hugo Boss Black

Peserico

Zanella

Burberry

Iisli

Piazza Sempione

Zelli

Calvin Klein

Ike Behar

Pink Tartan

Canali

Isaia

Raffi Cashmeres

and more …

Catherine Malandrino

J Brand Jeans

Rag & Bone

Church's English Shoes

J Shoes

Ralph Lauren Black Label

Cinzia Rocca

Jean Paul Gaultier

Ravazzolo

SILVER CELEBRATION Boyds’ customers have been described as fiercely loyal, and the same may be said for our employees. A recent dinner honored staff with 25 years of service.

Gerald Gushner and Angie Satchell; Kent Gushner, Jeannine Kelly and Jean Boone; Ralph Yaffe, Jeff Glass and Kent Gushner

JAY HUMMEL PHOTOGRAPHY

Left to right: Amber Edwards, Dave Gilbert and Amanda Griffith;

Guide.ALL.0313.Final

3/13/08

1:47 PM

Page 38

{ the

boyds guide } M e n’ s

FA S H I O N

Elements of

MEN’S STYLE Stay FRESH and MODERN with these top spring trends Slip on a sleeker suit Suits slim down this season, with designers showcasing modern silhouettes.

Armani aced this outline, pairing narrow-

Salvatore Ferragamo’s brightly playful pieces, featuring seals, butterflies or jungle animals—all subtle enough to make an elegant yet whimsical statement.

Try shirts with personality While the basic white shirt will always be a style staple, this season also

lapeled jackets with flat-front or pleated

sees designers embracing stripes, checks and tone-on-tone patterns—so fear not

trousers, without compromising comfort.

the bolder offerings from style maestros like Zegna and Brioni. Another tip: Look

Isaia and Basile flaunt the slender style,

for French cuffs, now the standard on gentlemen’s dress shirts.

adding side vents to their two- and threebutton suits and sportcoats. Lightweight fabrics, like the luxurious wool/silk blend used by Ermenegildo Zegna, keep you cool as the mercury

Have fun with sportswear Embrace your wild side with prints by Etro, or military-inspired jerseys and graphic tees from designers like Hugo Boss. John Varvatos offers armygreen knits that look sharp with khaki pants or shorts of any shade.

rises. And while solids look great under blue April

Lightweight cottons, breathable knits and sport shirts from designers Paul &

skies, spring is all about playful plaids, stripes or

Shark and Etro keep you looking hot this spring while you stay cool.

checkered patterns. We especially loved the pieces

—Michael Cutone

by British darling Paul Smith.

Be bold in blue This season inject your wardrobe with a shot of bright color, and this year blue dominates the palette, with shades ranging from aqua to indigo to navy. Also hip are deco-colored shirts—those cooler in hue—and shirts in stripes of violet, blue, olive, sage

Spring 2008 suits and sports coats (left to right): Dolce & Gabbana, Kiton, Paul Smith, Ermenegildo Zegna

and pink. To make a bold but elegant statement, pair a vibrant shirt, jacket or lightweight sweater with neutral bottoms in dove gray, khaki or bone.

Play with pattern You can strike the right chord with most any print this spring. Pinstripes of all variations make basic pieces pop.

Plaids are both subtle and bold; tic weaves are created from neutral and dark threads alike and even solids are grabbing extra attention thanks to updated textures.

Tie on notable neckwear Color is the hallmark of spring’s ties, with a vibrant variety top hues include rose, orange, gold, blue, sage and lavender.

Punch up an earth-toned blazer by adding a striped or paisley tie.

Neckwear adorned with florals or polka-dots adds interest to classic suits. Or have a little fun with one of 38

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SPRING · SUMMER 2008

NECKWEAR PHOTO BY DANIEL SPRINGSTON

up for the offering. This season’s

THE CORTINA COLLECTION BOYDS_Spring.indd 39

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3/13/08

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Page 40

{ the

boyds guide } Wo m e n’ s

FA S H I O N

THE LOOK FOR SPRING & SUMMER Watercolor: Show off in something sheer Judging by the softly

1

painted layers of chiffon, romance is in the air. Alberta

Travel the world in safari wear Behnaz Sarafpour, Doo.Ri, Diane von Furstenberg and other top designers went wild for safari styles in

Ferretti captured the look with a sheer champagne silk top and ruffled sea-green miniskirt, while Badgley Mischka featured a floor-length petalpink halter gown. Make

sleek silhouettes. Smartly tailored pantsuits (wide-legged,

2

of course), crisp high collars or halter necklines and clas-

Flashback to Hollywood “glamour” Think fashion high-waisted

pants,

deep

sic flap-button pockets are emblematic of the look. So

V necklines and fitted, body-

what makes it modern? Soft, flowing fabrics that add a dash of

conscious silhouettes

femininity, and once again, the belt—wide or narrow—is de

3

that recall the 1940s

sure to add watercolors to

rigueur. Plus, subtle hues that capture every Saharan nuance—

your palette in spring with

from white to pink to toast—elevate this current incarnation

Lauren’s tidy white jacket

makeup-inspired shades

notches above the tan, olive and ecru take of the ’70s. Accessorize

with a flouncy peplum over a

such as dusty rose, medi-

with a long gold necklace, animal-print hoops or a chunky

cigarette skirt represented a

turquoise bracelet—for instant lift!

ladylike take on the look,

um beige and apricot.

and

’50s.

Ralph

while his white halter dress

Go chic in black and white

4

So easy to wear and eminently ver-

with fitted bodice and full, fly-

satile, black and white is back in a big way. Jean Paul Gaultier played with geometric

away skirt recalled Marilyn

shapes and graphic prints, while Zac Posen paired an elegant white portrait-

Monroe’s

sexy

subway

collared wrap blouse with a black satin-and-mesh peekaboo miniskirt. For the chicest

scene. And don’t even dream

take, go for bold graphics—stripes, color-blocking and bands. Prefer a softer effect? Choose

of wearing these pieces with-

a pretty allover print. Or add interest by playing with textures—top a black patent-trimmed

out Gucci patterned ankle-

skirt with a frilly white silk blouse. And don’t forget to use the combo to play up your figure.

strap heels—the extra height

Sheathe trouble spots in black, and highlight your assets in white.

makes them more alluring!

From the spring 2008 runway collections, left to right: Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Burberry, M Missoni, Doo.Ri

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Stand out in the CROWD

{ the

boyds guide } Wo m e n’ s

HOT tips How to capitalize on the season’s trends robe with brights Punch up your ward Vivid bursts of color lit up spring 2008

FA S H I O N

looks that only hint at what’s beneath, hot pants, voluminous skirts and dresses. How to choose from these ing a long, flowy tunic over skinny jeans

Q No matter how smooth my blow-out,

or a short, fitted jacket over a long skirt.

my shoulder-length hair frizzes up the minute it’s exposed to summer heat and humidity. Can you suggest a fool-proof style that’s office-appropriate?

And don’t forget to incorporate off-theshoulder styles for a shot of asymmetry.

Unexpected pairings add visual interest and can be surprisingly flattering … but you won’t know until you try!

fashion week—Hervé Léger’s grape neoprene banded dress, for example. But if

Dressing for success

extremes? You don’t have to! Try wear-

Why not try a quick chignon? Simply gather your hair in a low ponytail, twist the length until it starts to coil, then use a pretty claw clip

Pick the right patterns

to secure it. Let the ends fan out for a chic look.

From fantasy island–inspired blooms to

serum to damp hair before blow-drying. It

through clear-colored accessories.

tribal stripes and delicate pastel florals,

smooths and shines hair and seals cuticles,

Take your neutral look to the next

prints and patterns are popping up

making them impervious to moisture. Give it a

level by adding Kooba’s kelly green

everywhere—and you can use them to

shot and you may find you can leave your hair

you’d rather not go head to toe in magenta, teal or canary yellow, express yourself

Talia bag. Keep everybody’s eyes focused on you by

maximize your appearance. Small-

Another suggestion: Apply a moisturizing

long and loose without sacrificing smoothness.

framed? Pick small-scale motifs to keep

tying a brightly patterned

your look delicate. Larger? You can carry

M Missoni silk scarf

off a bold, big-scale print more easily.

around your neck. Or

And keep in mind that allover prints,

Q Lots of designers were mixing prints

put your best foot for-

whether ocelot or lilacs, have an added

ward by stepping out in

bonus: Because they don’t have a focal

on the runway. I’d like to give it a try but am afraid I’ll look inappropriate. Any cardinal rules?

Manolo Blahnik candy-

point, they effectively camouflage any

The most important rule is to make sure the

apple red sandals.

problem areas. Of course, if you’re a fan

prints have at least two colors in common—

of solids, you can still have fun with

that will create a coordinated impression and

pattern: Carry a gorgeous Dolce &

eliminate the risk of clashing. And for the

Gabbana leopard-print tote.

workplace, it’s best to stick to muted tones.

Play with propor tion This season you’ll find tailored garments, draped

—Sean General

Also, combine vastly different patterns such as pinstripes and florals. That makes it clear you’re being playful. Finally, it’s important to tie patterns together with a solid piece, like a stylish sportcoat, a tailored vest or a wide belt. For inspiration, see Etro’s and Salvatore Ferragamo’s whimsical collections of fantastic prints.

Q Pink is my favorite color and it’s everywhere! But will I be taken seriously in such a “soft” hue?

Consider this: According to a recent study, pink is the color both men and women find

from top: Theory,

most appealing. So if you’re looking to get

Schumacher, Tory Burch, Dolce & Gabbana, Rebecca Minkoff

noticed in the boardroom, slipping on something in a blush shade might be a good start!

For the most assertive look, choose conservative cuts—tailored shirts or a sleeveless top and cardigan in orchid pink. To have fun with your favorite color, experiment with silks, satins and ombre effects.

PA R T I N G W I S D O M

I

Dress for the job

you want, not the job you have!

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SPRING · SUMMER 2008

DOLCE & GABBANA HANDBAG PHOTO BY DANIEL SPRINGSTON

From the spring 2008 collections, counterclockwise

d BOYDS_Spring.indd 23

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{ meet the designer }

JOHN

VARVATOS

MENSWEAR DESIGNER John Varvatos has been in business

which graces the current John Varvatos ad campaign.

a scant seven years, but in that time he’s become a favorite

Easy elegance describes the Varvatos look, which is

of rock stars and film actors. The list of fans is long: Jack

executed with flawless craftsmanship and detailing.

White, Joe Perry, Chris Cornell, Iggy Pop, Christian Bale,

BOYDS magazine sat down with the designer to discuss

Orlando Bloom, Luke Wilson … and the band Cheap Trick,

his inspirations and to seek a little advice.

John, describe the

If you could dress one

What are you most likely to

What are your favorite

man you design for.

person, who would that be?

wear tomorrow morning?

fabrics and colors?

The guy I design for and the

Steve McQueen.

Jeans, my own jeans. I wear

Favorite fabrics for me are

jeans almost every day, either

always things with body and

dressed up or with a T-shirt.

texture. As for color, I like

guy who buys my clothing are sometimes two different people.

When we design, we’re thinking of a very open, eclectic, creative, confident guy—an artist, a writer. In the end, the customer doesn’t want to look like a stereotypical accountant.

own personal style?

neutral tones to blacks.

Modern sensibility and a

What about more

vintage flavor, which I think

formal attire?

What should men buy

is always reflected in my

I like to wear a suit, a well-fitting

for the coming season?

clothes—old-world spirit with

suit. When you’re dressed up,

This spring is all about the soft

a modern edge.

you like to look sexy and strong.

jacket. Guys are dressing up

And when you wear a suit, that’s

again, putting on a semi-tailored

part of the package.

jacket to go out in the evening.

But this is also a jacket you can dress down, pairing it with jeans for a casually sophisticated look.

CONTINUED

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SPRING · SUMMER 2008

PHOTOGRAPH BY RICHARD PHIBBS

may be an accountant who

How would you describe your

BOYDS_Spring.indd 47

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{ meet the designer }

HERE ARE THREE ALBUMS RECOMMENDED BY JOHN VARVATOS, MUSIC JUNKIE, AND THREE LOOKS FROM HIS SPRING COLLECTION.

Where does your

When did you discover

What did you

What do you read every day?

inspiration come from?

you wanted to become

want to do when

E-mails, lots of e-mails ... and

Every season it comes from

a designer?

you grew up?

The New York Times, and I read

different places. It might be

I was working at Ralph

I wanted to be a rock

a book every couple of weeks.

from something I’ve seen at

Lauren in the mid-’80s,

star, period. I was a

a gallery, in old magazines,

running the sales for the

total music junkie

architecture or watching a

men’s company, but I

at 12.

movie. I spend a lot of time in

was so in love with the

flea markets, looking at people

whole design process.

and details.

I felt a pull and started tak-

What are you thinking about when you present a collec-

the day, not enough time for my personal life. Our company

I have 15,000 songs

is in its seventh year—it’s

on my iPod, and

young—so it demands a lot of

I’ve put most of them

What had you done

on myself. I like everything

walk down the runway?

prior to that?

from classic rock to jazz to

I’m right there, fiddling with

I have a teaching degree in the

blues.

buttons, doing what needs to

sciences. I did that for one year

be done. What’s in my mind,

and taught at the university

though, is that we have 50

level—chemistry lab classes.

more guys behind this one, and

I worked my way through

we cannot screw up; it’s very

college, though, in retail in a

hectic backstage, filled with

men’s store.

When did you first

There are not enough hours in

your iPod?

tion and the models start to

drama and chaos.

thing about your job?

What’s on

ing classes at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

What is the most frustrating

Give us a recommendation.

my attention.

What’s your pet peeve about fashion?

If I had to pinpoint one thing about fashion, I’d say that it’s

I’ll give you three—World

bad shoes. It seems to me

Container by The Tragically

that if you spend a lot on a

Hip, Shrunken Heads by Ian

suit, you’d want to wear

Hunter and From the Sky by

good shoes.

Blackbud. Great albums!

Name three things

What’s the one thing

you can’t live without.

people don’t know about you?

My wife, my family and

That I almost played

great friends.

Do you carry around

feel successful?

a sketchbook?

For me, the first fluttering of

I have a little notebook that I

success was when we debuted

carry with me at all times, and

our first collection in fall 2000,

I probably have at least 75 of

and the top retailers from

Is there one word you would

you ever received?

those little leather notebooks,

around the country were excit-

use to describe yourself?

Probably from Ralph Lauren.

all filled with sketches, doodles,

ed about the collection and

Passionate.

He told me to make your goals

little notes to myself, and

bought it. The second time I felt

things stapled to pages.

successful was when I started to see people on the street wearing my clothes, or I’d look across the aisle on a plane and see a guy in one of my suits.

48

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SPRING · SUMMER 2008

professional baseball.

What three words would other people use to

What is the best advice

very high, to always raise the bar and not to compromise.

describe you?

What would you do if you

Passionate, challenging and

were not in fashion?

a rocker.

I’d love to be a musician or an architect.

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Morgan.0313.fmfinal

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BY M A R I A L I S S A N D R E L L O

Beauty

MARQUE Ninety-nine-year-old MORGAN MOTOR COMPANY remains the standard bearer of the CLASSIC BRITISH SPORTS CAR.

AN OPEN-AIR JAUNT IN A MORGAN CAN MAKE ANY DRIVE FEEL LIKE AN ESCAPE THROUGH THE ENGLISH COUNTRYSIDE.

Morgan.0313.fmfinal

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of the classic British sports car, and two basic types come to

is still thriving as a small, independent maker. What’s more, the

mind. The first is the streamlined beauty of the late Fifties and early

company has been producing the exact same ragtop since 1936, an

Sixties, whose examples include the MGA, the Austin-Healey, the

unprecedented commitment to automotive tradition that is duly

Triumph TR4, the Jaguar XK150 and E-Type, and the Aston Martin

noted in the Guinness Book of Records.

THINK

DB4 and DB5.

Every Morgan is still hand-crafted, with nary a robot in sight at

The second, earlier type has a distinctly prewar look, with a

the Malvern Link, Worcestershire, factory. And while Detroit makes

long louvered bonnet, bulbous fenders that hug the wheel wells and

cars first and hopes for buyers second, Morgan only builds to order.

taper into running boards, bug-eye headlights and doors slung so low

“We always want to be building cars for customers. We do not want

they’re more easily stepped over than opened. The iconic models are

to have cars sitting in showrooms waiting to be shipped out,” says

the MG TD and TF and, of course, the Morgan.

Charles Morgan, the 56-year-old grandson of founder H.F.S. Morgan.

While Austin-Healey, MG and Triumph have disappeared (granted, MG kits are being made in China and Triumph is back as a

The result? Ford Motors rolled out more than 6 million cars last year to Morgan’s … 600.

producer of motorcycles), and Jaguar and Aston Martin were sold to

In essence, a “Moggie” is commissioned just like a piece of

Ford, the least known of these classic sports car marques, Morgan,

art. The car takes about three months to be crafted, and the wait for

TRADITIONAL CAR-BUILDING METHODS COMBINE WITH CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY IN THE LIFECAR, BELOW. THE ZERO-EMISSION CONCEPT CAR DEBUTS THIS SPRING IN GENEVA. AND GOOD LUCK GETTING YOUR HANDS ON THE AEROMAX, OPPOSITE. THE EDITION OF JUST 100 CARS IS SOLD OUT.

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delivery can be excruciatingly long—as much as a year. Yet that’s part

The Aero 8 America, for example, shares its siblings’ bone

of the appeal for loyal Morgan customers (some call them cultists),

structure—an ultrastiff aluminum chassis (versus the usual steel)

who accept that real masterpieces can’t be rushed.

and an ash frame. That’s right, the body substructure is wooden,

Another part? The thrill that comes from driving a car that looks

consisting of some 100 hand-assembled pieces of ash. But the

as if it belongs to F. Scott Fitzgerald but is powered by up-to-date

engine is a big BMW V-8, compared to the 4-cylinder and Ford 6-

engineering. The older-model Moggies reflect the traditional view

cylinder engines in the older-model Morgans. Mount that BMW

that a sports car should be almost spartan in its appointments.

engine in a coupe that’s barely half the weight of a BMW, and you

Optional extras include items that are, well, not strictly necessary—

have a fast-accelerating sports car that feels even faster. Options

a clock, a radio, door handles—as well as such traditional touches as

include two-tone paintwork—think contrasting fenders—and a

real wire wheels and a leather bonnet strap. The newer models,

photographic record of your car being custom built.

which, blast it, are the only Morgans available new in the U.S.

Turn the page for a look at the Moggies currently available new

because the older models have not kept up with emissions stan-

in the States and what makes them so covetable, along with photos

dards, feature more contemporary styling, more amenities (air condi-

of the older models still in production—which in this country one

tioning!), more powerful engines and a higher price tag to match.

can always buy used.

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5 MODELS OF MORGAN

AEROMAX Morgan’s newest entry was commissioned by Prince Eric Sturdza, president of Banque Baring Brothers Sturdza. Designed in just four months

by Matthew Humphries, a design student at the University of Coventry

AERO 8 AMERICA

Automotive Design School, it was intended to be a one-off. But 100

Morgan’s first new model since 1968, the Aero 8 sparked big excitement

units of the car are being produced. Stylistically and structurally close to

at its 2001 unveiling. Taking just 4.5 seconds to go from 0–60 mph and

the Aero 8, it’s a hardtop featuring a unique split rear window. Designed

boasting a top speed of 160 mph, the Aero 8 is specially designed to

for long-distance touring at Sturdza’s request, it boasts a slightly wider

reduce drag, stick to the road around any bend and smooth over bumps.

interior than the Aero 8 and scads of class: The dashboard, sculpted

What about comfort? Anybody above average size would be well-

from a solid piece of ash, contrasts stunningly with the modern instru-

advised to drive with the top down—but then, what better way to drive

ments. And the pleated leather upholstery is superluxe. As for perform-

a true sports car?

ance, buckle up—this coupe sprints from 0–100 mph in 4.5 seconds!

AERO 8 AMERICA VITAL STATISTICS

AEROMAX VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE I

ENGINE I

BMW V-8

BMW V-8

POWER I 325 BHP

POWER I 325 BHP

TRANSMISSION I 6-SPEED MANUAL; 6-SPEED AUTOMATIC AVAILABLE

TRANSMISSION I 6-SPEED MANUAL OR AUTOMATIC GEARBOX

FUEL I 25.9 MPG (COMBINED)

FUEL I 23 MPG (COMBINED)

STANDARD FEATURES I HEATED WINDOWS CRUISE CONTROL

I ABS

STANDARD FEATURES I HEATED WINDOWS I ABS

I AIR CONDITIONING

MAKE IT YOURS FOR I

CRUISE CONTROL I AIR CONDITIONING

$129,950

MAKE IT YOURS FOR I

$215,000 ( if it weren’t sold out )

MORGAN’S OTHER MODERN CLASSICS

THE MORGAN 4/4

THE 4 SEATER

THE ROADSTER

This head turner has been in continuous

Perfect for open-air touring, this recently

This lightweight classic fuses traditional

production since 1936. The 4/4 stands for

restyled model combines sports car perform-

coach building with a Ford V-6, 24-valve

four cylinders and four wheels (until the

ance with room for four. It comes in five

engine. Acceleration is 0–62 mph in

’50s Morgan also made a 3-wheeler).

standard colors and 40,000 custom colors.

4.9 seconds.

M A R I A L I S S A N D R E L L O writes frequently about automobiles. She is also writ-

ing the libretto for an opera by German composer Christof Bergman.

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paradise perfected

BORA BORA

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BY R U T H A . K AT Z

CAN THE most idyllic vacation spot ON EARTH BE IMPROVED? YES, IF YOUR IDEA OF TROPICAL BLISS INCLUDES A coconut-milk plunge pool.

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OVER-WATER BUNGALOWS ARE FEATURED AT ALL THE TOP RESORTS ON THE ISLAND’S LAGOON. THESE ARE AT THE INTERCONTINENTAL BORA BORA LE MOANA RESORT.

BORA BORA is touted as “the most romantic destination in the world,” and

Bora Bora are part of the Society Island chain. There are also the Tuamotus,

with good reason. Although famous for decades as a tourist destination,

coral-reef atolls in the north; the Marquesas, rough, rugged, and jade-

the island remains uncrowded, unspoiled and breathtakingly picturesque.

green, to the far north; and to the south, the less-traveled Gambier and

You might assume the ultimate tropical paradise is too remote for a quick

Austral Islands.

winter vacation, but that’s no longer the case.

66

Before hopping from Tahiti to Bora Bora, I stayed overnight in

For East Coasters, getting to Bora Bora became a lot easier when Air

Papeete, the capital. The open-air market provided a chance to stock up on

Tahiti Nui (nui means big in Tahitian) began direct flights out of New York’s

Tahitian vanilla beans and floral soaps redolent with coconut oil and sweet-

JFK to Faa’a International Airport on Tahiti, a sister island to Bora Bora. The

scented local gardenia or tiare fleur. If you love pearls, as I do (remember,

12-plus hours slip by, and in truth, this voyage is only an additional three

this is the home of the prized black pearl), you can become something of

hours past—and a sharp left from—Hawaii.

an instant expert by visiting the Musée de la Perle. I capped the day off

Sprawling over an area the size of Europe, the Pacific territory of

with dinner at Vai’ete Square, where colorful roulettes park at dusk. These

French Polynesia comprises five archipelagos with 118 islands. Tahiti and

are literally restaurants in trucks, with outdoor seating. Try the poisson cru

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(raw fish salad with coconut milk, lime juice and cucumber), and end your meal with Belgian crèpes.

A scant 45 minutes away via “little”Air Tahiti lies Bora Bora, ringed by a crystal-clear lagoon and coral-reef islets called motu. Take a window seat and keep a camera ready: The vistas will leave your mouth agape.

The island-hopper lands on motu Mute, a spit of foliage-encircled land that serves as the Bora Bora airstrip. Built by U.S. airmen in World War II, it has changed little since they left, reluctantly, in 1946. I still had one short trip left: a boat ride to motu Toopua, where the Bora Bora Lagoon Resort & Spa awaited me. A gleaming white yacht skimmed the water to the resort’s private island.

Jumbo fiery-scarlet hibiscus perfumed the air in my room, where the housekeeping staff had painstakingly arranged the blooms in the shape of a crimson heart on my bed. Flora in the bath, on the nightstand, on the desk—lush foliage abounds everywhere: The hotel has planted more than 20,000 bushes, trees and flowering plants around the 12-acre property.

The best rooms are the over-water bungalows, those thatch-roof “huts” on stilts, each with its own deck and staircase down into the lagoon. Inside you’ll find “Tahitian TV”—a glass-covered coffee table, the top of which is removable and the bottom of which is a hole in the floor, open to the sea. At night, TAHITIAN BLACK PEARLS ARE PRIZED TREASURES OF FRENCH POLYNESIA. BELOW, ROOM-SERVICE BREAKFAST ARRIVES BY CANOE AT THE BORA BORA LAGOON RESORT & SPA.

HANDS PREPARE A GARLAND OF NATIVE FLOWERS, USED TO WELCOME VISITORS.

BoraBora.0313.Final

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A TAHITIAN “TREE HOUSE” IS HOME TO THE SYBARITIC MARÙ SPA AT THE BORA BORA LAGOON RESORT.

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LOCAL CHILDREN AT PLAY REFLECT THE MOOD OF THE WHOLE ISLAND. SHALLOW REEFS (RIGHT) MAKE FOR GREAT SNORKELING. BELOW, ENJOYING A FOOT SOAK AT THE SPA.

turn on the light below your bungalow and toss bread crumbs into the shallows, then watch the show as parrot-, trumpet-, and squirrelfish swoop in to feed.

Dining for humans also takes on new meaning around the water, with a canoe-delivered breakfast—the local version of room service— of fresh tropical fruit and luscious berry drinks. I also suggest a sumptuous motu picnic, where you shuttle to an uninhabited motu and laze around the beach while an island cook builds a fire pit and barbecues the catch-of-theday, which you eat seated at a table in two feet of warm lagoon water.

In between meals, you can arrange for any number of water-related activities: water-skiing, parasailing, a leisurely sail on a Hobie Cat, a moonlight cruise or a fishing charter, where you might catch marlin, tuna, sailfish or mahi mahi. There is so much awesome life in the water that all the hotel’s guest room closets are outfitted with fins, masks, water sandals and so on. I snorkeled till my skin wrinkled up like a Sharpei’s. There are enviable dive spots around the reefs for serious scuba divers. If you’re not the type to put on a wetsuit or even get wet, then ask about a trip on a glass-bottomed boat, where a peek at aquarium-worthy reef triggerfish, blue-spotted grouper and threadfin butterflyfish awaits you.

I recommend topping off each day with a visit to the hotel’s Marù Spa, a part of which is built 12 feet above the ground into two 40-foot ficus altissima, under a canopy of emerald leaves. Several treatment rooms are WATER PHOTO: JEAN-PIERRE PIEUCHOT

literally in the trees, with lagoon panoramas. Luxuriate in a Tahitian Rainstorm Treatment or a traditional Polynesian massage (taurumi maohi), or dip into the spa’s coconut-milk filled plunge pool.

After a few self-indulgent days here, you’ll see why everyone who comes to Bora Bora feels as I do—that I’m marking time until my next visit.

RESOURCES FOR PLANNING A TRIP TO BORA BORA www.boraboralagoon.com

R U T H A . K AT Z writes frequently on luxury goods and travel. She is a

www.tahiti-tourisme.com

contributing editor to Golf Connoisseur.

www.airtahitinui.com

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ELEGANCE WAS GARY COOPER’S CALLING CARD, AND HE HAD THE WARDROBE TO MATCH.

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GARY COOPER Whether playing Marlene Dietrich’s rakish lover in Morocco

(Chambertin-Clos de Bèze)—something he picked up at the

(1930), baseball great Lou Gehrig in Pride of the Yankees (1942) or

elbow of Countess Dorothy Di Frasso, an older, very much mar-

solitary hero Marshal Will Kane in High Noon (1952), Gary Cooper

ried American living in Rome who “educated” Gary from 1931 to

had everybody under his spell. Legend has it actress Luise Rainier

1932. She taught him how to dress (shirts from Turnbull & Asser,

literally got weak in the knees when she first caught sight of him

suits from Savile Row) and lavished him with a Continental

at the Beverly Wilshire Hotel. And the typing pool at Paramount

wardrobe, including white gloves and a round derby hat (but stop-

was said to fall silent whenever he—aka “the most beautiful hunk

ping short of a monocle and cane).

of man who ever walked down the hall”—appeared.

world. Inwardly, I was a scared young man,” he said of his

just a fraction of his appeal. What gave him true star quality were

Roman holiday and the gnawing fear that Hollywood might not be

the contrasts that shaped his life, imbuing him with a fascinating

so hospitable upon his return. He could have spared himself the

vulnerability, a quiet strength and the effortless sense of style

worry—he had 64 films in his future, including such classics as

that sparked the line “trying hard to look like Gary Cooper” in

Beau Geste (1939), Meet John Doe (1941) and Friendly

Irving Berlin’s song “Puttin’ on the Ritz.”

Persuasion (1956).

Despite his aw-shucks, yep-nope demeanor, the cowboy from

If anything might have cut his career short, it was an

Helena, Montana, was anything but simple … or simple-minded.

encounter with a charging lion—but a lucky shot spared him.

Sent by his British-born parents to school in Kent, England, he

And the experience stuck with him for life: “The biggest thrill in

returned to Helena three years later a well-bred 12-year-old in

the world to me was the time I was in Africa shooting big game.

shorts, Eton collar and straw hat. An artist who drew in a note-

I love Africa. I love its bigness, its toughness, the savagery you

book throughout high school, he was a gentle, modest soul who

can feel all around you at any place in the continent,” a senti-

stumbled by accident onto the silver screen—and never forgot

ment shared by his hunting buddy Ernest Hemingway. As

that his fortune could change at any time: “There ain’t never a

mementos, he brought home 60 mounted trophies, Masai

horse that couldn’t be rode; there ain’t never a rider that couldn’t

shields … and a chimp named Toluca, who had the run of his

be throwed,” was his mantra.

OPPOSITE PAGE: CORBIS; THIS PAGE: EVERETT COLLECTION

“Outwardly, I was playing my new role, a poised man of the

But the good looks attached to that 6'3" frame accounted for

Beverly Hills home. Not the coziest envi-

While Cooper may not have indulged

ronment for a new wife, yet when Cooper

his ego, indulge he did: Scotch, cigarettes,

married Veronica “Rocky” Balfe, she

guns, cars and, yes, women were his weak-

shared the digs—and even the dinner

nesses. As soon as he became a big star,

table—with Toluca.

he splurged for status wheels—a 1930

To the end, Cooper remained a model

Duesenberg, the most expensive automo-

of grace, kindness and subtle style, never

bile of its day. (Not to be outdone, rival star

claiming to be more than an average-

Clark Gable had his Duesie custom

looking, awkward cowboy who just got

designed to be a foot longer than Cooper’s.)

lucky. As Ray Stricklyn, the actor who

Equally content riding horseback or

played Cooper’s son in Ten North Frederick,

racing cars, growing avocados or playing

remarked: “One of my final lines in the film

grease monkey, blowing his harmonica or

seems to be very right to describe Gary

strumming a guitar, Cooper also had a

Cooper: ‘He was a gentleman in a world

taste for fine food (baby lobsters) and wine

that no longer respects gentlemen.’”

Gary Cooper didn’t have to try hard to look stylish—it came effortlessly.

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Malt.0313.final

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{ malt }

BY M A R K D O W D E N

vintage speyside THE GLENROTHES

celebrates its evolving whisky with a unique vintage concept

“IT WOULD BE NO TRUE OR, at least, no very discerning lover of whisky

north, you can easily complete a round of golf after 10 p.m. in high summer)

who could enter this almost sacred zone without awe,” wrote Aeneas

make for a stellar crop year after year. Water, the other ingredient in malt

MacDonald in 1930. He was speaking of Speyside, the home to nearly 50

whisky, is also abundant. The Spey is fed by many smaller rivers—the Livet,

distilleries—more than half the number in Scotland. Speyside takes its

the Fiddich, the Lossie, the Dulan—and these in turn are fed by burns and

name from the River Spey, the fastest flowing in Britain, which rises in the

springs, many of them rich in minerals that impart distinctive flavors to the

granite Monadhliath Mountains,

whiskies. Pure air and a mild climate are perfect for aging the distilled spirit.

weaves north and east through

While there are endless variations, the typical qualities of Speyside

fertile farmland, and flows into

malts are sweetness, fruit flavors and floral aromas—qualities accessible

the Moray Firth at Spey Bay.

to most any palate and prized the world over. In fact, seven of the 10 best-

In Speyside, the climate

selling single malts are from Speyside: Glenfiddich, the world’s top seller;

and natural resources are perfect

Glenlivet, the most popular in the U.S.; Glen Grant, the most popular in

for producing single malts of great

Italy; Aberlour, the most popular in France (did you know the French drink

character. Most of the distilleries

more Scotch than Cognac?); Cardhu, the most popular in Japan; and

use locally grown barley from

Macallan and Balvenie.

the Laigh o’ Moray. Mild

But let’s stray from the beaten path and sample what was, until

weather and long sum-

recently, a Speyside sleeper: the Glenrothes. A close neighbor of the

mer days (this far

Macallan, the Glenrothes distillery dates back 130 years. On December 28,

MAP: DAVID ATKINSON/HANDMADE MAPS LTD.

Holy Hand Grenade: Looking like

the personal explosive device from Monty Python & the Holy

Grail, the Glenrothes’ bottle holds as creamy and elegant a whisky as Speyside ever brought forth.

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SPRING · SUMMER 2008

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Page 132

Hard by a graveyard, the Glenrothes distillery is said to be haunted (lucky ghosts).

The copper pot stills (lower left) have unusually large boiling balls, a key to producing the characteristic fruitiness of the spirit.

Aging takes place predominantly in ex-sherry casks (lower right).

1879, the night of the Tay Bridge Disaster, when the new railway bridge

of “exceptional personality” to represent a particular year. As with

collapsed in a storm and sent 75 passengers to their deaths in the icy

champagne, in some years, no vintage is declared.

waters of the River Tay, warm spirit first flowed from the stills of

The vintage concept meshes well with the culture of single-malt

Glenrothes. Today the output is prodigious—more than 1 million gallons

connoisseurship. Of 16 vintages released by the Glenrothes to date, 14

a year—but as in the old days, almost all of it is used as a top dressing

have sold out. A few have been reissued, but demand has so thoroughly

in blended whiskies, notably Cutty Sark and the Famous Grouse. Only

outstripped supply that the introduction of a non-vintage single-malt

2 percent of the Glenrothes is bottled as single malt.

bottling seemed inevitable. Enter the Glenrothes Select Reserve. This

Like any great whisky, the Glenrothes is made with almost sacramental care. Local barley is still malted on site in Saladin boxes.

expression is a vatting—a blend from casks of different, unspecified years—which gives the distiller the flexibility to maintain consistency.

The malt is mashed with water from the distillery’s private springs, the

Although it has been selling like oat cakes, the Glenrothes 1991

Ardcanny and “The Lady’s Well” in the nearby Glen of Dounie. The cop-

is one vintage expression you should have no trouble finding.

per pot stills, installed for the centenary in 1979, are copies of the orig-

Complex, elegant and delicious, it’s equally suitable as an aperitif

inals, down to replicated dents. These stills have an especially large

and as an after-dinner drink. The Special Reserve also comes

boiling ball, which encourages reflux and helps to produce the fruity

highly recommended.

spirit characteristic of the brand. Aging takes place in Spanish oak casks used formerly for oloroso sherry. Ex-bourbon barrels from Kentucky are

TASTING NOTES | THE GLENROTHES 1991

also used here but to a lesser extent.

COLOR I Rose gold and clear

There is a “house style” of the Glenrothes, characterized by ripe dark fruits, citrus and vanilla; a rich, creamy texture; and a spicy finish.

NOSE I

Orange peel dipped in dark chocolate, prunes stewed in orange juice,

Honey Maid graham crackers, a hint of curry

In recent years, the distillery has opted to celebrate variations of this style by adopting a vintage concept: Bottlings are determined not by age but by “vintage,” in pursuit of which, the malt master seeks casks M A R K D O W D E N was educated at the University of St. Andrews,

Scotland, where he learned about pot stills and pot bunkers.

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SPRING · SUMMER 2008

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{ fitness }

BY M A R I A L I S S A N D R E L L O

Move over, boot camp:

Training just got a lot easier, thanks to the TRX suspension

Hanging with the SEALs

system, which keeps you solid to the core.

NECESSITY may be the mother of invention, but the fact is, if Navy

ceiling beam, stuck his feet in the “stirrups” and did push-ups, planks

SEALs didn’t have a way with needle and thread, the hottest fitness

and dozens of other exercises. But because his feet were suspended,

craze since spinning might never have seen the light of day. Called TRX

he had to enlist his core muscles to keep his body balanced.

(total resistance exercise) suspension training, it was created when Navy SEAL squadron Randy

commander

Hetrick was

looking for a way to keep his crew in shape: “My guys needed something we could use in the tight

He and his buddies soon realized the genius of his two-pound resistance-training apparatus: Not only did it build strength, but it could A few straps

and two handles— looks simple enough, and that’s all you

travel anywhere, and the only thing required to make it fully operational was a sturdy anchor— anything from a thick tree limb to a bolt.

That was six years ago, and the TRX sys-

need to pump up a

tem has since been refashioned and refined.

fitness routine.

Hetrick has developed more than 300 exercises

quarters of a submarine, a safe

(log on to www.fitnessanywhere.com for

house or remote operating base envi-

instructions and equipment) and now counts

ronments—literally anywhere.” What about push-ups, sit-ups and squats? Sure, they helped, but they couldn’t work the body’s back, rhomboids and core.

Then Hetrick had a brainstorm. He stitched together nylon parachute straps and rubber handles (yep, Navy SEALs learn how to sew—it’s how they maintain their gear), hooked the contraption to a 134

/

SPRING · SUMMER 2008

among die-hard fans Houston Texans safety Will Demps, New Orleans Saints quarterback Drew Brees and Baltimore Orioles pitcher Adam Loewen. One reason the pros are so gung ho about hanging? Since it pits your own body weight against gravity,

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Page 136

PUMPING

for volume

If you don’t have a personal trainer at your beck and call for home cardio workouts (or if Sven is on vacation), consider the digital equivalent—the softballsized EnterTrainer ($140), which hooks onto your treadmill or other cardio machine. This intelligent gadget acts as both heart-rate monitor and wireless remote control, lowering your TV or stereo volume the second your heart rate falls. Like Sven, the device is demanding and effective. (www.theentertrainer.com; 1-TV-TURNS-YOU-ON)

Adaptability is key to the TRX workout: Adjust the straps, change your positioning and you’ve got a custom regime.

tandems

GO HIGH TECH

Cyclists who scoff at bicycles built for two, regarding them as too ungainly for serious training, should check out the T2000 from Trek

the risk of additional injury is low; plus, the system makes for a superefficient workout. That’s because unlike weight machines, suspension

($3,850). This top-of-the-line tandem is comfortable, smooth, solid

training engages multiple muscles, providing a total body workout in

and ultralight—lighter, in fact, than many single-seat bicycles. Its

half the time.

featherweight and twin pedalers make for a fast ride: You and

Not a pro? Hetrick points out that TRX is ideal for beginners too.

your sweetheart can easily cruise at more than 20 mph on the flats,

Adjusting the straps and your body position determines the difficulty

leaving your hammerhead friends in the dust. (www.trekbikes.com)

level, making for a workout that can be custom tailored to your fitness requirements. Not quite sure you’re ready to “hang” from your feet?

You can warm up to the idea by gripping the handles with your hands, leaning back and performing anything from rows and chest presses to

singing with

THE FISHES

With everything from ski jackets to bike

lunges and one-legged squats.

There’s another reason suspension has caught fire: It has received

helmets redesigned to accommodate

a big thumbs-up from proponents of functional fitness, a movement

digital music players, it was inevitable

emphasizing exercises that make it easier to conquer everyday chal-

that someone would get around to wiring

lenges, like lugging that 60-pound suitcase up a flight of stairs or

the wetsuit. The Solution Platinum

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ness is precisely what TRX does so beautifully—get all the muscles of the body working synergistically to build strength, boost balance, increase flexibility and sculpt a lean, fit physique. Now that you’ve got the hang of it, you might want to give it a try.

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M A R I A L I S S A N D R E L L O writes frequently on living the luxe life.

136

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SPRING · SUMMER 2008

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HoroscopeBoyd.0313.Final

3/13/08

11:24 AM

Page 138

{ horoscope } YOUR

STYLE

BY K I K I T.

FORECAST

AS

WRITTEN

IN

THE

S TA R S

ARIES

Working with new concepts and new

(March 21 ~ April 19)

people will take you to the next level. Do it with flair.

Spring enters with a whirlwind of activity

Top Cosmic Refreshers:

that will have you racing about town at

VACATION I THE DORDOGNE

top speed. Lucky for you, this is the pace

DINING I CASSOULET

you love. You’ll be at your best to launch

NECESSITY I BOTTEGA VENETA HANDBAG

entrepreneurial ventures, respark romance

INDULGENCE I PERSONAL CHEF

with your partner and even reignite your own love of self. Free-flowing optimism can take you to a new level of understand-

LEO

ing and have you believing in magic.

(July 23 ~ August 22)

Embrace it fully, and others will become

The world is yours, literally: Real estate

believers too.

ventures, especially international ones, can

Top Cosmic Refreshers:

be lucrative for you now. This may be an

VACATION I SUMMER SKIING IN PORTILLO

opportune moment to buy a vacation home.

DINING I JAMÓN SERRANO

Exploring the ends of the earth for your par-

NECESSITY I DRIVING GLOVES

adise can recharge your business acumen

INDULGENCE I LAMBORGHINI REVENTÓN

and your amorous endeavors. Bring along your loved one and make it a journey for two. The jaunt will be worth its weight in

TAURUS

romantic gold.

(April 20 ~ May 20)

Just remember, it’s your hard work that has

Are old troubles still weighing you down?

brought you into such demand, and you’re

VACATION I MADAGASCAR

It’s time to put the past in the past. Silently

really in the driver’s seat, darling. Delegate

DINING I CLASSIC STEAKHOUSE

holding onto grudges isn’t winning you any

appropriately, and by summertime, your

NECESSITY I .300 HOLLAND & HOLLAND RIFLE

sympathy, so say what needs to be said and

efforts will be obvious and your genius

INDULGENCE I BOAR HUNTING IN ROMANIA

move on. By getting back in touch with your

praised accordingly.

Venusian spirit, you’re bound to reconnect to

Top Cosmic Refreshers:

a more hopeful feeling. Extend spring clean-

VACATION I NORDIC FJORD CRUISE

VIRGO

ing to your wardrobe, and watch a bold new

DINING I PAN-ASIAN

(August 23 ~ September 22)

you emerge.

NECESSITY I RAKU TEA SET

Sign contracts and seal the deal on any

Top Cosmic Refreshers:

INDULGENCE I TANZANITE JEWELRY

ongoing negotiations now. This will clear up

VACATION I VANCOUVER AND VICTORIA ISLAND

Top Cosmic Refreshers:

the second half of your year to reap the

DINING I DUNGENESS CRAB NECESSITY I VERTU MOBILE PHONE

CANCER

INDULGENCE I WALK-IN WINE COOLER

(June 21 ~ July 22)

rewards and expand on what you establish.

That’s not to say all will be smooth sailing.

You’ll be challenged to fine-tune the details of your visions—a task you’ll relish, as yours is

in the works could use a dose of idealism

GEMINI

the sign of precision.

and imagination. We all feel more in con-

(May 21 ~ June 20)

Top Cosmic Refreshers:

trol dealing with what we know, but resist

VACATION I ZIHUATANEJO

You were born to be the life of the party, but

doing the same ol’, same ol’. Your

DINING I CEVICHE

that doesn’t mean you always enjoy it. For a

assignment: Push yourself to enter new

NECESSITY I BOLÍVAR CIGARS

time, everyone else will have plans for you,

territory. If you can’t make this transition

INDULGENCE I 36 HOLES AT PALMILLA

leaving you feeling like you have no control.

alone, sign up a partner to add inspiration.

138

/

SPRING · SUMMER 2008

CONTINUED

SARAH WILKINS

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3/13/08 3:19:12 PM

HoroscopeBoyd.0313.Final

3/13/08

11:24 AM

Page 140

{ horoscope }

LIBRA

AQUARIUS

(September 23 ~ October 22)

(January 20 ~ February 19)

Forget those fantasies of what your love life

Obligations are an inevitable part of life, but

should be. Instead, focus on realistic steps

remember, you can’t be all things to all

to improve your situation. If you’re with

people. So recheck your list of priorities and

someone, plan an escape to an exotic spot

streamline. By calling your own shots, you’ll

where you can reconnect peacefully and

have an opportunity to more richly and fully

romantically. If you’re single, visualize the

develop your own personal style. Reclaim

relationship you most desire, then be open

your freedom, and your psyche will thank you.

to the power of fate. Throw away your

Top Cosmic Refreshers:

script and embrace the surprises that

VACATION I TASMANIA

come your way.

DINING I THAI

Top Cosmic Refreshers:

NECESSITY I DUNHILL CUFF LINKS

VACATION I MUSTIQUE

INDULGENCE I BENETTI YACHT

DINING I PLATEAU DE FRUITS DE MER NECESSITY I ITALIAN SUITS

PISCES

INDULGENCE I FRANCK MULLER WATCH

(February 20 ~ March 20) A major decision is coming down to the wire,

SCORPIO

and your choice will send your life in a daring

(October 23 ~ November 21)

new direction. Yes, the pressure will be

The power you’ve dreamt of is now in your

intense and the repercussions long-term.

hands, but the big cosmic test this season

Unfortunately, logic and your instincts will be

is how you’ll wield it. All eyes are on you,

are in for a long ride before this vision

going in opposite directions, causing confu-

so remember: There is always someone

achieves its full glory.

sion. But the good news is that once you’ve

just as hungry waiting to take your spot at

Top Cosmic Refreshers:

made up your mind, your full commitment—

the helm. But since you’re charismatic, bril-

VACATION I SANTORINI

and excitement—will follow.

liant and superb at thinking for the long

DINING I STEAK SOFRIDO

Top Cosmic Refreshers:

term, you’re sure to captivate even your

NECESSITY I OSTRICH-SKIN PASSPORT HOLDER

VACATION I SHANGHAI

fiercest competitors and bring them under

INDULGENCE I PET OSTRICH

DINING I ROTISSERIE MEATS

your sway.

NECESSITY I CUSTOM SHIRTS

Top Cosmic Refreshers:

INDULGENCE I VANDERSTEEN HOME THEATER

VACATION I THE GALAPAGOS

CAPRICORN

DINING I RACK OF RIBS, CHILEAN STYLE

(December 22 ~ January 19)

NECESSITY I CASHMERE HOODIE

Although you’re the zodiac’s natural-born

INDULGENCE I CASHMERE TRAVEL BLANKET

businessperson, this year will bring new twists on how you deal with others. You’ll

SAGITTARIUS (November 22 ~ December 21)

learn to compromise with different personality types, which will require you to slow down your pace and become more methodical

Spontaneous notions are your best, but

in your demands. The results will enable you

masterpieces aren’t created in an instant. So

to be even more effective in all your efforts.

accept new ideas as they come. However, be

Top Cosmic Refreshers:

careful of getting too far ahead of yourself.

VACATION I BUENOS AIRES

Patience is a lesson you are continually learn-

DINING I ASADO WITH CHIMICHURRI

ing, and it’s more critical now than ever.

NECESSITY I GUCCI LOAFERS

Passion will come on quickly. Sit tight: You

INDULGENCE I CUSTOM BED LINENS

140

/

SPRING · SUMMER 2008

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{ man of style }

BY F R A N C E S C A M O I S I N

your life in scrubs or a racing suit! But when I do get to pick my outfits, I choose clothes that are casual yet elegant. I love pairing nice jeans with a dress shirt made by Robert Graham, Etro or Dolce & Gabbana. While driving you also need good footwear, and I like to slip on a pair of comfortable Tod’s loafers when I take my family for a cruise in the Bentley.

Q } How long have you been a customer at Boyds?

Since I was an undergraduate at Harvard. At the time I was so poor all I could afford from Boyds was a pair of socks. Still, I loved the idea of treating myself to something nice. I’ve had the same personal shopper, Ron Condello, since 1985. He even helped me buy my first interview suit. It wasn’t Brioni or Canali, but for me it might as well have been a million-dollar suit. That’s how good I felt when I put it on.

Q } Do you have a favorite designer?

I always tell people that my favorite designer is Sparco—they make racing suits. But I own one beautiful blue-gray Canali suit that’s my go-to piece whenever I need something seriously spiffy. My wife helped me pick out a few shirts and ties to match, and she definitely deserves the lion’s share of credit for making even a project like me look good! I’m a bit of an odd size in some ways—though thankfully not as thick around the middle since I started racing, because it is a very physically demanding sport—so I also have all my suits tailored at Boyds. That makes my life so easy: All my clothes fit perfectly when I get them back.

JIM

LOWE

Q } Are there any styles you dislike?

I’m just praying the ’70s look never comes back in style. In sixth grade I went to a football banquet dressed in a tan, 100 percent polyester suit with an airplane-print shirt. I thought I looked great at the time, but I wouldn’t want to repeat the experience. Otherwise, I’m pretty liberal when considering new looks. My wife is also a strong supporter of the Boyds women’s department, and when we shop together I’ll often ask her opinion about a funky Paul Smith shirt or Burberry jacket.

ONE MIGHT WONDER how he finds the time. When not performing

neurosurgery at one of two New Jersey hospitals—AtlantiCare in Atlantic City and Virtua West Jersey in Marlton—James Lowe, M.D., likes to take his Porsche 911 GT3 out for a 180mile-per-hour spin. “I compete professionally with my team,

Q } Do you have a favorite racing outfit?

We wear purpose-made flame-proof jackets and pants, and one thing I love about playing a sport is wearing the uniform. Many of our TRG team outfits now come from Hugo Boss. Since Boyds is one of our biggest sponsors, several of them also bear the very classy Boyds logo, which is great.

The Racer’s Group (TRG), throughout the year,” says Lowe, “but my favorite event is the 24-hour endurance race in Daytona.” Other leisure activities include snowboarding with wife Ginny (Vail is a favorite vacation spot), driving go-karts with 6-year-old son Aidan and shopping at Boyds for “99 percent of the clothing I own.” Recently, Dr. Lowe even made time to give BOYDS magazine a peek inside his life—and closet.

When not in the operating room or on the track, neurosurgeon/ race-car driver James Lowe, M.D., favors casually elegant apparel.

Nearly all of Jim’s clothing—from his “seriously spiffy” Canali suit

Q } How would you describe your personal style?

to his favorite dress shirts—

It’s a bit hard to have a personal style when you spend most of

comes from Boyds.

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