BOYDS
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SPRING 2008
WHAT ’S NEW FOR SPRING
PREFERRED CUSTOMER
GIFT CARDS
ENCLOSED See page 32
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Incomparable selection of brand new and certified pre-owned vehicles. Attractive lease and finance solutions available.
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W W W. R O B E RT TA L B O T T. C O M
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BOSS 0166/S
HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone 212 940 0600
are brands distributed by
NEW YORK 646.492.5047 - www.slowear.com
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{ contents }
64
features AUTOMOTIVE
/
Beauty Marque
For nearly a century, Britain’s Morgan Motor Company has custom-built classic sports cars for a discerning few. Why change what works? ~-~
58
T R AV E L
Paradise Perfected: Bora Bora
/
Unspoiled and breathtakingly beautiful, the famous Pacific island is now surprisingly easy to reach. ~-~ ~-~
64
FASHION
94
/
The Bold & the Beautiful For a spring with zing, designers offer clean-lined black-and-white attire with punches of primary hues. ~-~ ~-~
70
Urban Safari Take metropolitan sophistication and add a hint of the exotic.
~-~
82
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Color Me Softly Amour is abundant with these sweetly subtle ensembles.
103
12
/
SPRING · SUMMER 2008
94
~-~
Bon Voyage Set sail for a chic spring with your pick of seafaring styles.
Below is the Aero 8 American, one of the classic, go-fast cars from Morgan Motor Company. The MacHay floral print shirt, directly above, is the perfect summer attire for a jaunt in your Aero 8.
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58
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IKE S “CLIPPED SHIRT”
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{ contents }
columns Malt Vintage Speyside Scotland’s richly prolific Glenrothes distillery saves a bit of its creamy treasure to be savored singlemalt style.
30
130
127
departments Invitation to Style Welcome to a magazine that’s all about you.
22
The Boyds Guide The romance of cashmere . . . Celeb-worthy denim . . . Custom shirts to suit your whim . . . Jets on demand . . . Waking up the Philly night . . . and more!
29
MEET
THE
DESIGNER:
John Varvatos 130
A favorite of rock stars, John shares what’s on his iPod, where he gets inspired and what clothing matters most today.
46
42
16
/
SPRING · SUMMER 2008
ICON:
Fitness
Gary Cooper
Hanging with the SEALs
Hollywood’s quintessential soft-spoken hero had the world under his spell.
Can a few nylon parachute straps with rubber handles make your workout portable? The Navy says yes.
126
134
MAN OF STYLE:
Jim Lowe Neurosurgeon, auto racer and savvy shopper Jim Lowe gives a peek inside his closet.
144
Horoscope You’re thinking of wearing that? First consult Kiki, who uses the zodiac to help you make sound style choices.
138
40 32
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alfred dunhill, equipping gentlemen since 1893.
sentryman family a new family of writing instruments and accessories, inspired by the iconic british pillar box
Š 2007 alfred dunhill
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Page 22
B O Y D S
{ invitation to style }
1818 CHESTNUT STREET · PHILADELPHIA
2 1 5 . 5 6 4 . 9 0 0 0 w w w. b o y d s p h i l a . c o m
9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. THURSDAY to SATURDAY: 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. MONDAY & TUESDAY: WEDNESDAY:
Editor & Publisher MARK DOWDEN
IT’S
ALL
ABOUT
YOU
Creative Director AMY A. DOWDEN Fashion Editors MICHAEL CUTONE, SEAN GENERAL
Associate Fashion Editor
You’re holding the premiere issue
CHRISTINA SERAFINE
of BOYDS magazine, a new benefit
Contributing Editors CYNTHIA HURLEY,
for friends of our Philadelphia store.
RUTH A. KATZ, MARIA LISSANDRELLO, FRANCESCA MOISIN, KIKI T.
Boyds has always been about cus-
Contributing Photographers
tomer service, and the magazine is
MICHAEL DOUCETTE, MICHAEL DWORNIK, DANIEL SPRINGSTON
just one more expression of that
Associate Art Director EILEEN CRABILL
commitment. Like free valet park-
Art Assistant LAURA CARAMAGNA
ing and in-store tailoring, the maga-
Corporate Editorial Director RITA GUARNA
zine exists, quite simply, to make your shopping experience easier. To create BOYDS magazine, we
Boyds’ third-generation owners pose in the atrium of the store (left to right: Kent Gushner, Ralph Yaffe
PEEKS
JENNIFER DOSS
Advertising Sales Assistant
men’s and women’s catalogs into a series of fashion spreads. In
ASHLEY MCFADDEN
these features, you’ll find dozens of inspiring outfits and acces-
Production Manager CHRISTINE HAMEL
sories for spring and summer, all of which are now in stock.
Advertising Services Manager THOMAS RAGUSA
Next we added inside information for Boyds customers, such
Advertising Coordinator KATHY GJOKAJ
as a sneak peek at the renovation of our second floor and a pre-
Production Assistant CHRISTINA FALLIVENE
view of upcoming trunk shows.
Senior Art Director, Agency Services
In addition to the best clothing and accessories, BOYDs magWatch it!
see page 29
SHAE MARCUS
Advertising Account Executive
and Jeff Glass).
began by transforming our seasonal Sneak
National Advertising Manager
KIJOO KIM
azine is covering other aspects of personal style that dovetail with
Art Associate, Agency Services FRANCESCA MOLLANO
the world of fashion. These include the most stylish cars to drive,
Accounting SUSAN CASEY, ALAN KULA, MAGDALENA SZARGUT
local hot spots where you can see and be seen, luxury travel destinations—even elegant ways to fill your glass. Elsewhere in this issue, for instance, you’ll read about the
Published by w wainscot
sexy new Aeromax sports car from Morgan Motor Company, a
Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN
sizzling nightclub on Rittenhouse Square, the island paradise of
President MARK DOWDEN
Bora Bora and a velvety single malt called the Glenrothes, among
Executive Vice President GEORGE W. SLOWIK JR.
other pleasures.
Senior Vice President EDWARD BURNS
And there’s another kind of buried treasure in these pages:
Vice Presidents GRACE BEHRENS, AMY A. DOWDEN, NIGEL EDELSHAIN, RITA GUARNA, SUZANNE TRON
Preferred Customer Gift Cards for men and women. Together, these gift cards have a value of $500—a very tangible benefit to
Regional Sales Director
receiving BOYDS magazine!
DOUGLAS C. BARKER
As we prepare to celebrate the 70th anniversary of Boyds, Black & white— chic all over
see page 76
Director of Marketing CHRISTOPHER KAEFER
we extend our thanks to the three groups that have made our
Circulation Director LAUREN MENA
success possible: loyal customers like you; our expert staff,
Controller SHANNON STEITZ
whose mission is to serve you; and our 100-plus vendor brands, who keep us supplied with the best clothing, shoes and acces-
BOYDS Magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Boyds. Copyright © 2008 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved.
sories available anywhere. We look forward to seeing you soon. KENT GUSHNER
R A L P H YA F F E
JEFF GLASS
Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, BOYDS, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Boyds, 1818 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103; telephone 215.564.9000.
22
Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com. /
SPRING · SUMMER 2008
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Brioni: a favorite of leading men Leading men of Hollywood have long favored Brioni for its suits and sportcoats. Clark Gable, Gary Cooper, John Wayne and Kirk Douglas were early clients. In 1994, Pierce Brosnan’s James
{ the
boyds guide }
Bond abandoned Savile Row for the Roman maker; Brioni has been dressing Bond ever since. What is it that makes Brioni garments among the best in the world? The fabrics, styling, cut and construction are all superb, and somehow add up to the ability to make any man look trimmer, taller, fitter. A Brioni suit takes what God gave you and appears to perfect it. What’s more, the detailing and handwork are utterly precise. To ensure perfection, Brioni trains its people at its own schools. A seamstress, for example, studies for two years before she is permitted to craft a buttonhole. While best known for its tailored ines, Brioni is represented at Boyds by a full range of men’s clothing, including neckties, belts and other wardrobe staples. We’ll be happy to show you the collection.
Master of Complications Time is on Franck Muller’s side. The world’s most celebrated watchmaker has not yet turned 50 (that milestone
The Paisley Path
to Glory
will occur this July 11). But in a field where the most famous brands are centuries old, already Muller has built one of the top brands of luxury watches—
HIGH QUALITY
fabrics in
punched-up prints and offbeat
the one that bears his name. On more than one occasion he has unveiled a
color combinations—such is the
new timepiece that has been pro-
hallmark of fashion powerhouse
claimed “the most complicated
Etro, best known for its sassy ’80s
wristwatch in the world.” And as
paisleys. Not for the fashion meek,
he adds ever-more inventive
this bold brand’s spring looks encour-
watches to his range, Muller
age flights of fancy, thanks to brother-
exudes the aura of an inventor
and-sister design team Kean and Veronica Etro. For the men, Kean serves up paisleys (right), floral prints, jungleinspired hues and a range of jaunty bowties, while Veronica’s ladies’ line, as seen at left,
and businessman who is “just getting started.” Recently
the
Master
of
Complications himself was hosted at a reception at G by Govberg
has been aptly described as “kaleidoscopic”—
Jewelers. With its celebrated shop located directly inside
chock full of bright tones, flowing fabrics and
the front entrance of Boyds, Govberg is Philadelphia’s
cinched waistlines.
only authorized dealer of Franck Muller watches. SPRING · SUMMER 2008
/
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{ the
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The romance of cashmere Style alert: Cashmere can be fashion-forward. Ladies, if your stash of the super-soft knit is relegated to plain-Jane cardigans and scarves, check out the playful designs by the folks at Autumn
Cashmere.
Ruffled
necklines, puffed sleeves, bright colors and modern silhouettes give this classic fabric that extra “something special.” Adding to its appeal is high-quality crafts-
G love
manship: Autumn’s own production facilities ensure that each
Scenesters who are oh-so-over quietly sipping cocktails in swanky but
sweet piece is a well-constructed
deadly dull lounges will cheer the arrival of Philadelphia’s G nightclub. If its
wardrobe staple as well as a
tagline alone—“technologically injected pure bliss”—doesn’t set your
fashion delight.
body in motion, a visit to G surely will. Beyond the top-tier DJs and drinks, the 10,000-square-foot space pulses thanks to an abundance of 65-inch LCD screens and its “electronic wallpaper”—a 55-foot wall that flashes morphing colors and patterns. Not just for club kids, G (which is co-owned by Boyds) caters to business types in its exclusive Mogul Room, where
Recommended reading
members can wheel and deal in luxury—and privacy—as the main-floor
Swimming with sea turtles in Tahiti.
party rages on.
Hunting for truffles near Turin. Hiking along the winding waterways of
Sole provider
Madeira, Portugal. These are just a few of the adventures detailed in Journeys
The right shoe at the right time. In the town of Corridonia, Italy, 20 craftsmen overseen by Andrea Santoni create some of the most exciting and beautiful shoes ever offered. Every detail is thoroughly reviewed by Andrea and each shoe that meets his approval carries the Santoni name. Known for its timeless classics Santoni also offers dress-own loafers and sneakers with a twist.
of a Lifetime: 500 of the World’s Greatest Trips ($40 from National Geographic). Each page of this lavish volume pairs striking photos with expert advice on planning your jaunt. Have a read—and keep your passport at the ready!
Private jets made easy
30
Tired of wasting hours in airports? Just as there’s a spectrum of fashion choices between the T-shirt and the tux, so there is middle ground for frequent fliers not ready to purchase their own plane. Since 2001 Marquis Jet has offered a flexible alternative to chartering for those airborne less than 50 hours per year. Purchase a Marquis Jet Card, starting at $126,900, and you’ll get 25 hours of piloted flight time, with guaranteed round-the-clock availability, 365 days a year. Choose from 10 aircraft types in the nearly 740-strong NetJets fleet of managed aircraft (average age of five years) owned by Warren Buffett’s Berkshire Hathaway. You can take off and land at thousands of airports across the U.S. and Europe at your slightest whim (as little as 10 hours advance notice required)—all with unmatched safety and convenience, no maintenance worries or long-term obligation. “The typical customer uses the jet card for personal trips rather than business,” says Seth Zlotkin, vice president of the company. “Avoiding airport waits, avoiding surprises—in effect buying time in their lives—these are the big motivators,” he explains. Zlotkin, who is based in Philadelphia, strives to bring a high level of personalized, boutique service to his clients, catering to their gourmet preferences, family care and other touches. Keep an eye out for Marquis Jet in the months to come: The company has partnered with Boyds to co-sponsor in-store events in 2008. Meantime, if you can’t wait to learn more, contact Seth Zlotkin at 215-462-0720 or szlotkin@marquisjet.com. /
SPRING · SUMMER 2008
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JEFF ARCH RENDERING
{ the
boyds guide } Suit yourself IN CANALI Some say the devil is in the details, but we respectfully disagree. For it’s the exquisite attention to detail that makes a handtailored Canali suit seem truly heaven-sent. The jacket, for example, is fully canvassed, never fused. Both the canvas and outer fabric are basted prior to being sewn, which builds elasticity and shape into the garment. The shoulders are shaped with cotton-wool and horsehair wadding, which is inserted in a way that facilitates future modification for an individualized fit. Canali jackets are renowned for being, as they say, “a pleasure to wear,” and these hidden struc-
Operation
transformation
tural elements are part of the reason. The details you can see are notable. Each
When renovations are completed this
10 of the world’s top brands: Armani
fall, even longtime customers may not
Collezioni, Brioni, Burberry, Canali,
recognize the new second floor at
Ermenegildo Zegna, Hickey Freeman,
the new, ultra-lightweight super
Boyds, the latest project in the store’s
Isaia, Kiton, Ravazzolo and Trussini.
200s wool, with buttons made
three-phase redesign. The new second
of corozo, horn and mother-of-
floor will be home to Boyds “shops” for
pearl. Working buttons at the
dress shirts, ties, accessories and custom
base of the sleeves add a con-
shirts—plus a drinks bar and a VIP room.
suit is crafted in Italy of only the world’s finest materials, such as cashmere, pure bemberg and
Michael Clayton into your DVD player and be riveted by George Clooney’s electric performance and his Canali suits and sportcoats.
Treasure in the trunk
and elegant, with bright walls, cabinets made of light-finished wood such as
summate touch of luxury. Need more convincing? Pop
White describes the new secondfloor space, pictured here, as airy, modern
“This will be a discreet, comfortable area for private shopping and made-to-measure fittings,” explains
walnut and maple, and soft halogen lighting. The design team will also expose and
Peter White, senior designer at
retain some of the original 1907
Barteluce Architects & Associates.
architecture, such as an antique
Boyds’ expanded made-to-measure
fireplace.
service for men now features
Just what is a trunk show? To start, it’s not
be on hand to offer their
about luggage. In the old
fit and fabrics:
expertise with styling,
days of fashion retailing, manufacturers’ representa-
Allen Edmonds Men’s Shoes
tives would visit stores
SATURDAY, APRIL 12
with trunks full of their latest creations. Store owners would choose the items
Armani Collezioni Women’s
customers wanted
THURSDAY, APRIL 24, THROUGH
most. Today, we do
SATURDAY, APRIL 26
most of our selection at designers’ showrooms, but trunk shows live on. Here are some of the trunk shows coming up at Boyds.
David Rodriguez Women’s fall ’08 fashions THURSDAY, APRIL 10, THROUGH SATURDAY, APRIL 12
Please join us for these Allen Edmonds
special presentations of the exclu-
sive fabrics and fine fit of
Doo.Ri Women’s fall ’08 fashions
Santoni
THURSDAY, APRIL 3, THROUGH SATURDAY, APRIL 5
“designer name” clothing. Vendor representatives will 32
Santoni Men’s Shoes WEDNESDAY, APRIL 16
/
SPRING · SUMMER 2008
Doo.Ri
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Page 34
{ the
boyds guide }
Shirts so
In the art of shirt making, greatness is
GOOD
achieved through four elements—fabric, design, quality of construction and fit. Only a few shirt makers, committed
to excellence in all four areas, turn out a product that truly can Women who appreciate their denim stripped of embellishments have a friend indeed in J Brand jeans. Since 2005, the company has produced clean-lined jeans of exceptional quality in both classic and contemporary cuts. You can highlight your curves with the company’s celebrated slim styles—from “skinny” to “pencil” to “cigarette”—adored by the likes of Angelina Jolie and Gwyneth Paltrow. But J Brand’s newest love is its wide-leg offerings, which recall the ’40s-style elegance of Kate Hepburn and Lauren Bacall, but with a decidedly up-to-the-moment twist. For a modern classic, try the slightly flared “Love Story” jean, heralded by many a fashionista as— can it be so?—that elusive perfect fit.
be called world class. Among them is the famous Neapolitan firm of Isaia. Isaia uses the finest fabrics in myriad patterns and colors (some 500 to choose from), embraces a modern aesthetic when it comes to design, and sews extra strength into each shirt (collars are carefully hand stitched to remain crisp and erect; a hand-sewn tab at each cuff gauntlet prevents tears; a small reinforcement triangle firmly holds together the front and
My BLUE heaven
Samurai NOSH
back panels. Now Boyds offers its customers the chance to “improve on perfection” with Isaia’s custom service. You can choose fabric, color, pattern and design details, and your shirt will be made to your exact measurements for a flawless fit—giving you a dress shirt that is not only world class in its quality but also a unique reflection of your personal taste.
Dedicated to a
Fans know it simply as “Raw,” but the full name is 1225 Raw Sushi & Sake Lounge. Housed in the landmark Stetson Hat build-
perfect fit
ing on Sansom Street, Raw is favored for its over-the-top maki,
Old-world tailors may seem like a
Asian-accented hot dishes (try the wasabi fries), inventive sake
vanishing breed, but they’re a com-
cocktails and hip, casual atmosphere.
mon sight at Boyds. We maintain
Soon the trademark fare, drinks and relaxed vibe will be on
an in-store tailor shop of 50 crafts-
tap at Boyds: A branch of Raw is opening in the store this sum-
men and craftswomen, who ensure
mer. If you’ve ever hit the Ginza in Tokyo, you already know:
that every garment purchased
Sushi, sake and shopping are a most sat-
here fits just right. In fact, our
isfying combination!
service includes complimentary realterations, should any be required, for up to a year after purchase.
34
/
SPRING · SUMMER 2008
EXQUISITE DIAMOND JEWELRY GOVBERG JEWELERS AT BOYDS, 1818 CHESTNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA, 215.546.6505 GOVBERG JEWELERS, 292 MONTGOMERY AVENUE, BALA CYNWYD, 610.664.1715
WWW.GOVBERGWATCHES.COM
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Page 36
{ the
boyds guide }
THE
A - to - Z LIST
Nothing to wear? Lucky you! With oodles of offerings from these 100+ top-name design houses, and an expert staff ready to guide your selections, Boyds will stock your closet with many an outfit to be proud of. AG Jeans
C’N’C Costume National Jimmy Choo
René Caovilla
Akris Punto
D.Exterior
John Varvatos
Robert Graham
Alfred Dunhill
David Rodriguez
Joseph Abboud
Robert Rodriguez
Alice + Olivia
Diane Von Furstenberg
Just Cavalli
Robert Talbott
Allen Edmonds
Dolce & Gabbana
Karta
Rock & Republic
Andrew Marc
Dolcepunta
Kooba
Salvatore Ferragamo
Anne Claire
Doo.Ri
Lanvin
Santoni
Armani Collezioni
Elie Tahari
Lorenzini
See by Chloé
Autumn Cashmere
Equilibrio
M Missoni
Seven Jeans
Axis
Ermenegildo Zegna
MacHay
Stuart Weitzman
Badgley Mischka
Eton
Magnanni
Ted Baker
Bailey 44
Etro
Manolo Blahnik
Theory
Basile
Foley & Corinna
Maria Di Ripabianca
Tory Burch
Behnaz Sarafpour
Giambattista Valli
Maria Sartini
Trafalgar
Belford
Gran Sasso
Martin Gordon
True Religion
Bo’em
Gucci
Milly
Trussini
Bolgheri
Gunex
Moreschi
Vera Wang Lavender
Boss Jeans
Hamilton Shirts
Moschino Cheap & Chic
Versace
Botiker
Helmut Lang
Narciso Rodriguez
Victorinox Swiss Army
Bottega Veneta
Hervé Léger
Oliver Sweeney
Whim
Boyds Custom Shirts
Hickey Freeman
Paul & Shark
Winslowe & Krik
Brian Atwood
Hilary Radley
Paul Smith
Zac Posen
Brioni
Hugo Boss Black
Peserico
Zanella
Burberry
Iisli
Piazza Sempione
Zelli
Calvin Klein
Ike Behar
Pink Tartan
Canali
Isaia
Raffi Cashmeres
and more …
Catherine Malandrino
J Brand Jeans
Rag & Bone
Church's English Shoes
J Shoes
Ralph Lauren Black Label
Cinzia Rocca
Jean Paul Gaultier
Ravazzolo
SILVER CELEBRATION Boyds’ customers have been described as fiercely loyal, and the same may be said for our employees. A recent dinner honored staff with 25 years of service.
Gerald Gushner and Angie Satchell; Kent Gushner, Jeannine Kelly and Jean Boone; Ralph Yaffe, Jeff Glass and Kent Gushner
JAY HUMMEL PHOTOGRAPHY
Left to right: Amber Edwards, Dave Gilbert and Amanda Griffith;
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{ the
boyds guide } M e n’ s
FA S H I O N
Elements of
MEN’S STYLE Stay FRESH and MODERN with these top spring trends Slip on a sleeker suit Suits slim down this season, with designers showcasing modern silhouettes. Armani aced this outline, pairing narrow-
Salvatore Ferragamo’s brightly playful pieces, featuring seals, butterflies or jungle animals—all subtle enough to make an elegant yet whimsical statement.
Try shirts with personality While the basic white shirt will always be a style staple, this season also
lapeled jackets with flat-front or pleated
sees designers embracing stripes, checks and tone-on-tone patterns—so fear not
trousers, without compromising comfort.
the bolder offerings from style maestros like Zegna and Brioni. Another tip: Look
Isaia and Basile flaunt the slender style,
for French cuffs, now the standard on gentlemen’s dress shirts.
adding side vents to their two- and threebutton suits and sportcoats. Lightweight fabrics, like the luxurious wool/silk blend used by Ermenegildo Zegna, keep you cool as the mercury
Have fun with sportswear Embrace your wild side with prints by Etro, or military-inspired jerseys and graphic tees from designers like Hugo Boss. John Varvatos offers armygreen knits that look sharp with khaki pants or shorts of any shade.
rises. And while solids look great under blue April
Lightweight cottons, breathable knits and sport shirts from designers Paul &
skies, spring is all about playful plaids, stripes or
Shark and Etro keep you looking hot this spring while you stay cool.
checkered patterns. We especially loved the pieces
—Michael Cutone
by British darling Paul Smith.
Be bold in blue This season inject your wardrobe with a shot of bright color, and this year blue dominates the palette, with shades ranging from aqua to indigo to navy. Also hip are deco-colored shirts—those cooler in hue—and shirts in stripes of violet, blue, olive, sage
Spring 2008 suits and sports coats (left to right): Dolce & Gabbana, Kiton, Paul Smith, Ermenegildo Zegna
and pink. To make a bold but elegant statement, pair a vibrant shirt, jacket or lightweight sweater with neutral bottoms in dove gray, khaki or bone.
Play with pattern You can strike the right chord with most any print this spring. Pinstripes of all variations make basic pieces pop. Plaids are both subtle and bold; tic weaves are created from neutral and dark threads alike and even solids are grabbing extra attention thanks to updated textures.
Tie on notable neckwear Color is the hallmark of spring’s ties, with a vibrant variety top hues include rose, orange, gold, blue, sage and lavender. Punch up an earth-toned blazer by adding a striped or paisley tie. Neckwear adorned with florals or polka-dots adds interest to classic suits. Or have a little fun with one of 38
/
SPRING · SUMMER 2008
NECKWEAR PHOTO BY DANIEL SPRINGSTON
up for the offering. This season’s
THE CORTINA COLLECTION BOYDS_Spring.indd 39
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{ the
boyds guide } Wo m e n’ s
FA S H I O N
THE LOOK FOR SPRING & SUMMER Watercolor: Show off in something sheer Judging by the softly
1
painted layers of chiffon, romance is in the air. Alberta
Travel the world in safari wear Behnaz Sarafpour, Doo.Ri, Diane von Furstenberg and other top designers went wild for safari styles in
Ferretti captured the look with a sheer champagne silk top and ruffled sea-green miniskirt, while Badgley Mischka featured a floor-length petalpink halter gown. Make
sleek silhouettes. Smartly tailored pantsuits (wide-legged,
2
of course), crisp high collars or halter necklines and clas-
Flashback to Hollywood “glamour” Think fashion high-waisted
pants,
deep
sic flap-button pockets are emblematic of the look. So
V necklines and fitted, body-
what makes it modern? Soft, flowing fabrics that add a dash of
conscious silhouettes
femininity, and once again, the belt—wide or narrow—is de
3
that recall the 1940s
sure to add watercolors to
rigueur. Plus, subtle hues that capture every Saharan nuance—
your palette in spring with
from white to pink to toast—elevate this current incarnation
Lauren’s tidy white jacket
makeup-inspired shades
notches above the tan, olive and ecru take of the ’70s. Accessorize
with a flouncy peplum over a
such as dusty rose, medi-
with a long gold necklace, animal-print hoops or a chunky
cigarette skirt represented a
turquoise bracelet—for instant lift!
ladylike take on the look,
um beige and apricot.
and
’50s.
Ralph
while his white halter dress
Go chic in black and white
4
So easy to wear and eminently ver-
with fitted bodice and full, fly-
satile, black and white is back in a big way. Jean Paul Gaultier played with geometric
away skirt recalled Marilyn
shapes and graphic prints, while Zac Posen paired an elegant white portrait-
Monroe’s
sexy
subway
collared wrap blouse with a black satin-and-mesh peekaboo miniskirt. For the chicest
scene. And don’t even dream
take, go for bold graphics—stripes, color-blocking and bands. Prefer a softer effect? Choose
of wearing these pieces with-
a pretty allover print. Or add interest by playing with textures—top a black patent-trimmed
out Gucci patterned ankle-
skirt with a frilly white silk blouse. And don’t forget to use the combo to play up your figure.
strap heels—the extra height
Sheathe trouble spots in black, and highlight your assets in white.
makes them more alluring!
From the spring 2008 runway collections, left to right: Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Burberry, M Missoni, Doo.Ri
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Stand out in the CROWD
{ the
boyds guide } Wo m e n’ s
HOT tips How to capitalize on the season’s trends robe with brights Punch up your ward Vivid bursts of color lit up spring 2008
FA S H I O N
looks that only hint at what’s beneath, hot pants, voluminous skirts and dresses. How to choose from these ing a long, flowy tunic over skinny jeans
Q No matter how smooth my blow-out,
or a short, fitted jacket over a long skirt.
my shoulder-length hair frizzes up the minute it’s exposed to summer heat and humidity. Can you suggest a fool-proof style that’s office-appropriate?
And don’t forget to incorporate off-theshoulder styles for a shot of asymmetry. Unexpected pairings add visual interest and can be surprisingly flattering … but you won’t know until you try!
fashion week—Hervé Léger’s grape neoprene banded dress, for example. But if
Dressing for success
extremes? You don’t have to! Try wear-
Why not try a quick chignon? Simply gather your hair in a low ponytail, twist the length until it starts to coil, then use a pretty claw clip
Pick the right patterns
to secure it. Let the ends fan out for a chic look.
From fantasy island–inspired blooms to
serum to damp hair before blow-drying. It
through clear-colored accessories.
tribal stripes and delicate pastel florals,
smooths and shines hair and seals cuticles,
Take your neutral look to the next
prints and patterns are popping up
making them impervious to moisture. Give it a
level by adding Kooba’s kelly green
everywhere—and you can use them to
shot and you may find you can leave your hair
you’d rather not go head to toe in magenta, teal or canary yellow, express yourself
Talia bag. Keep everybody’s eyes focused on you by
maximize your appearance. Small-
Another suggestion: Apply a moisturizing
long and loose without sacrificing smoothness.
framed? Pick small-scale motifs to keep
tying a brightly patterned
your look delicate. Larger? You can carry
M Missoni silk scarf
off a bold, big-scale print more easily.
around your neck. Or
And keep in mind that allover prints,
Q Lots of designers were mixing prints
put your best foot for-
whether ocelot or lilacs, have an added
ward by stepping out in
bonus: Because they don’t have a focal
on the runway. I’d like to give it a try but am afraid I’ll look inappropriate. Any cardinal rules?
Manolo Blahnik candy-
point, they effectively camouflage any
The most important rule is to make sure the
apple red sandals.
problem areas. Of course, if you’re a fan
prints have at least two colors in common—
of solids, you can still have fun with
that will create a coordinated impression and
pattern: Carry a gorgeous Dolce &
eliminate the risk of clashing. And for the
Gabbana leopard-print tote.
workplace, it’s best to stick to muted tones.
Play with propor tion This season you’ll find tailored garments, draped
—Sean General
Also, combine vastly different patterns such as pinstripes and florals. That makes it clear you’re being playful. Finally, it’s important to tie patterns together with a solid piece, like a stylish sportcoat, a tailored vest or a wide belt. For inspiration, see Etro’s and Salvatore Ferragamo’s whimsical collections of fantastic prints.
Q Pink is my favorite color and it’s everywhere! But will I be taken seriously in such a “soft” hue? Consider this: According to a recent study, pink is the color both men and women find
from top: Theory,
most appealing. So if you’re looking to get
Schumacher, Tory Burch, Dolce & Gabbana, Rebecca Minkoff
noticed in the boardroom, slipping on something in a blush shade might be a good start! For the most assertive look, choose conservative cuts—tailored shirts or a sleeveless top and cardigan in orchid pink. To have fun with your favorite color, experiment with silks, satins and ombre effects.
PA R T I N G W I S D O M
I
Dress for the job
you want, not the job you have! 42
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SPRING · SUMMER 2008
DOLCE & GABBANA HANDBAG PHOTO BY DANIEL SPRINGSTON
From the spring 2008 collections, counterclockwise
d BOYDS_Spring.indd 23
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{ meet the designer }
JOHN
VARVATOS
MENSWEAR DESIGNER John Varvatos has been in business
which graces the current John Varvatos ad campaign.
a scant seven years, but in that time he’s become a favorite
Easy elegance describes the Varvatos look, which is
of rock stars and film actors. The list of fans is long: Jack
executed with flawless craftsmanship and detailing.
White, Joe Perry, Chris Cornell, Iggy Pop, Christian Bale,
BOYDS magazine sat down with the designer to discuss
Orlando Bloom, Luke Wilson … and the band Cheap Trick,
his inspirations and to seek a little advice.
John, describe the
If you could dress one
What are you most likely to
What are your favorite
man you design for.
person, who would that be?
wear tomorrow morning?
fabrics and colors?
The guy I design for and the
Steve McQueen.
Jeans, my own jeans. I wear
Favorite fabrics for me are
jeans almost every day, either
always things with body and
dressed up or with a T-shirt.
texture. As for color, I like
guy who buys my clothing are sometimes two different people. When we design, we’re thinking of a very open, eclectic, creative, confident guy—an artist, a writer. In the end, the customer doesn’t want to look like a stereotypical accountant.
own personal style?
neutral tones to blacks.
Modern sensibility and a
What about more
vintage flavor, which I think
formal attire?
What should men buy
is always reflected in my
I like to wear a suit, a well-fitting
for the coming season?
clothes—old-world spirit with
suit. When you’re dressed up,
This spring is all about the soft
a modern edge.
you like to look sexy and strong.
jacket. Guys are dressing up
And when you wear a suit, that’s
again, putting on a semi-tailored
part of the package.
jacket to go out in the evening. But this is also a jacket you can dress down, pairing it with jeans for a casually sophisticated look. CONTINUED
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SPRING · SUMMER 2008
PHOTOGRAPH BY RICHARD PHIBBS
may be an accountant who
How would you describe your
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{ meet the designer }
HERE ARE THREE ALBUMS RECOMMENDED BY JOHN VARVATOS, MUSIC JUNKIE, AND THREE LOOKS FROM HIS SPRING COLLECTION.
Where does your
When did you discover
What did you
What do you read every day?
inspiration come from?
you wanted to become
want to do when
E-mails, lots of e-mails ... and
Every season it comes from
a designer?
you grew up?
The New York Times, and I read
different places. It might be
I was working at Ralph
I wanted to be a rock
a book every couple of weeks.
from something I’ve seen at
Lauren in the mid-’80s,
star, period. I was a
a gallery, in old magazines,
running the sales for the
total music junkie
architecture or watching a
men’s company, but I
at 12.
movie. I spend a lot of time in
was so in love with the
flea markets, looking at people
whole design process.
and details.
I felt a pull and started tak-
What are you thinking about when you present a collec-
the day, not enough time for my personal life. Our company
I have 15,000 songs
is in its seventh year—it’s
on my iPod, and
young—so it demands a lot of
I’ve put most of them
What had you done
on myself. I like everything
walk down the runway?
prior to that?
from classic rock to jazz to
I’m right there, fiddling with
I have a teaching degree in the
blues.
buttons, doing what needs to
sciences. I did that for one year
be done. What’s in my mind,
and taught at the university
though, is that we have 50
level—chemistry lab classes.
more guys behind this one, and
I worked my way through
we cannot screw up; it’s very
college, though, in retail in a
hectic backstage, filled with
men’s store. When did you first
There are not enough hours in
your iPod?
tion and the models start to
drama and chaos.
thing about your job?
What’s on
ing classes at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
What is the most frustrating
Give us a recommendation.
my attention. What’s your pet peeve about fashion?
If I had to pinpoint one thing about fashion, I’d say that it’s
I’ll give you three—World
bad shoes. It seems to me
Container by The Tragically
that if you spend a lot on a
Hip, Shrunken Heads by Ian
suit, you’d want to wear
Hunter and From the Sky by
good shoes.
Blackbud. Great albums!
Name three things
What’s the one thing
you can’t live without.
people don’t know about you?
My wife, my family and
That I almost played
great friends.
Do you carry around
feel successful?
a sketchbook?
For me, the first fluttering of
I have a little notebook that I
success was when we debuted
carry with me at all times, and
our first collection in fall 2000,
I probably have at least 75 of
and the top retailers from
Is there one word you would
you ever received?
those little leather notebooks,
around the country were excit-
use to describe yourself?
Probably from Ralph Lauren.
all filled with sketches, doodles,
ed about the collection and
Passionate.
He told me to make your goals
little notes to myself, and
bought it. The second time I felt
things stapled to pages.
successful was when I started to see people on the street wearing my clothes, or I’d look across the aisle on a plane and see a guy in one of my suits.
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SPRING · SUMMER 2008
professional baseball.
What three words would other people use to
What is the best advice
very high, to always raise the bar and not to compromise.
describe you?
What would you do if you
Passionate, challenging and
were not in fashion?
a rocker.
I’d love to be a musician or an architect.
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Morgan.0313.fmfinal
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BY M A R I A L I S S A N D R E L L O
Beauty
MARQUE Ninety-nine-year-old MORGAN MOTOR COMPANY remains the standard bearer of the CLASSIC BRITISH SPORTS CAR.
AN OPEN-AIR JAUNT IN A MORGAN CAN MAKE ANY DRIVE FEEL LIKE AN ESCAPE THROUGH THE ENGLISH COUNTRYSIDE.
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of the classic British sports car, and two basic types come to
is still thriving as a small, independent maker. What’s more, the
mind. The first is the streamlined beauty of the late Fifties and early
company has been producing the exact same ragtop since 1936, an
Sixties, whose examples include the MGA, the Austin-Healey, the
unprecedented commitment to automotive tradition that is duly
Triumph TR4, the Jaguar XK150 and E-Type, and the Aston Martin
noted in the Guinness Book of Records.
THINK
DB4 and DB5.
Every Morgan is still hand-crafted, with nary a robot in sight at
The second, earlier type has a distinctly prewar look, with a
the Malvern Link, Worcestershire, factory. And while Detroit makes
long louvered bonnet, bulbous fenders that hug the wheel wells and
cars first and hopes for buyers second, Morgan only builds to order.
taper into running boards, bug-eye headlights and doors slung so low
“We always want to be building cars for customers. We do not want
they’re more easily stepped over than opened. The iconic models are
to have cars sitting in showrooms waiting to be shipped out,” says
the MG TD and TF and, of course, the Morgan.
Charles Morgan, the 56-year-old grandson of founder H.F.S. Morgan.
While Austin-Healey, MG and Triumph have disappeared (granted, MG kits are being made in China and Triumph is back as a
The result? Ford Motors rolled out more than 6 million cars last year to Morgan’s … 600.
producer of motorcycles), and Jaguar and Aston Martin were sold to
In essence, a “Moggie” is commissioned just like a piece of
Ford, the least known of these classic sports car marques, Morgan,
art. The car takes about three months to be crafted, and the wait for
TRADITIONAL CAR-BUILDING METHODS COMBINE WITH CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY IN THE LIFECAR, BELOW. THE ZERO-EMISSION CONCEPT CAR DEBUTS THIS SPRING IN GENEVA. AND GOOD LUCK GETTING YOUR HANDS ON THE AEROMAX, OPPOSITE. THE EDITION OF JUST 100 CARS IS SOLD OUT.
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delivery can be excruciatingly long—as much as a year. Yet that’s part
The Aero 8 America, for example, shares its siblings’ bone
of the appeal for loyal Morgan customers (some call them cultists),
structure—an ultrastiff aluminum chassis (versus the usual steel)
who accept that real masterpieces can’t be rushed.
and an ash frame. That’s right, the body substructure is wooden,
Another part? The thrill that comes from driving a car that looks
consisting of some 100 hand-assembled pieces of ash. But the
as if it belongs to F. Scott Fitzgerald but is powered by up-to-date
engine is a big BMW V-8, compared to the 4-cylinder and Ford 6-
engineering. The older-model Moggies reflect the traditional view
cylinder engines in the older-model Morgans. Mount that BMW
that a sports car should be almost spartan in its appointments.
engine in a coupe that’s barely half the weight of a BMW, and you
Optional extras include items that are, well, not strictly necessary—
have a fast-accelerating sports car that feels even faster. Options
a clock, a radio, door handles—as well as such traditional touches as
include two-tone paintwork—think contrasting fenders—and a
real wire wheels and a leather bonnet strap. The newer models,
photographic record of your car being custom built.
which, blast it, are the only Morgans available new in the U.S.
Turn the page for a look at the Moggies currently available new
because the older models have not kept up with emissions stan-
in the States and what makes them so covetable, along with photos
dards, feature more contemporary styling, more amenities (air condi-
of the older models still in production—which in this country one
tioning!), more powerful engines and a higher price tag to match.
can always buy used.
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5 MODELS OF MORGAN
AEROMAX Morgan’s newest entry was commissioned by Prince Eric Sturdza, president of Banque Baring Brothers Sturdza. Designed in just four months by Matthew Humphries, a design student at the University of Coventry
AERO 8 AMERICA
Automotive Design School, it was intended to be a one-off. But 100
Morgan’s first new model since 1968, the Aero 8 sparked big excitement
units of the car are being produced. Stylistically and structurally close to
at its 2001 unveiling. Taking just 4.5 seconds to go from 0–60 mph and
the Aero 8, it’s a hardtop featuring a unique split rear window. Designed
boasting a top speed of 160 mph, the Aero 8 is specially designed to
for long-distance touring at Sturdza’s request, it boasts a slightly wider
reduce drag, stick to the road around any bend and smooth over bumps.
interior than the Aero 8 and scads of class: The dashboard, sculpted
What about comfort? Anybody above average size would be well-
from a solid piece of ash, contrasts stunningly with the modern instru-
advised to drive with the top down—but then, what better way to drive
ments. And the pleated leather upholstery is superluxe. As for perform-
a true sports car?
ance, buckle up—this coupe sprints from 0–100 mph in 4.5 seconds!
AERO 8 AMERICA VITAL STATISTICS
AEROMAX VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE I
ENGINE I
BMW V-8
BMW V-8
POWER I 325 BHP
POWER I 325 BHP
TRANSMISSION I 6-SPEED MANUAL; 6-SPEED AUTOMATIC AVAILABLE
TRANSMISSION I 6-SPEED MANUAL OR AUTOMATIC GEARBOX
FUEL I 25.9 MPG (COMBINED)
FUEL I 23 MPG (COMBINED)
STANDARD FEATURES I HEATED WINDOWS CRUISE CONTROL
I ABS
STANDARD FEATURES I HEATED WINDOWS I ABS
I AIR CONDITIONING
MAKE IT YOURS FOR I
CRUISE CONTROL I AIR CONDITIONING
$129,950
MAKE IT YOURS FOR I
$215,000 ( if it weren’t sold out )
MORGAN’S OTHER MODERN CLASSICS
THE MORGAN 4/4
THE 4 SEATER
THE ROADSTER
This head turner has been in continuous
Perfect for open-air touring, this recently
This lightweight classic fuses traditional
production since 1936. The 4/4 stands for
restyled model combines sports car perform-
coach building with a Ford V-6, 24-valve
four cylinders and four wheels (until the
ance with room for four. It comes in five
engine. Acceleration is 0–62 mph in
’50s Morgan also made a 3-wheeler).
standard colors and 40,000 custom colors.
4.9 seconds.
M A R I A L I S S A N D R E L L O writes frequently about automobiles. She is also writ-
ing the libretto for an opera by German composer Christof Bergman.
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paradise perfected
BORA BORA
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BY R U T H A . K AT Z
CAN THE most idyllic vacation spot ON EARTH BE IMPROVED? YES, IF YOUR IDEA OF TROPICAL BLISS INCLUDES A coconut-milk plunge pool.
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OVER-WATER BUNGALOWS ARE FEATURED AT ALL THE TOP RESORTS ON THE ISLAND’S LAGOON. THESE ARE AT THE INTERCONTINENTAL BORA BORA LE MOANA RESORT.
BORA BORA is touted as “the most romantic destination in the world,” and
Bora Bora are part of the Society Island chain. There are also the Tuamotus,
with good reason. Although famous for decades as a tourist destination,
coral-reef atolls in the north; the Marquesas, rough, rugged, and jade-
the island remains uncrowded, unspoiled and breathtakingly picturesque.
green, to the far north; and to the south, the less-traveled Gambier and
You might assume the ultimate tropical paradise is too remote for a quick
Austral Islands.
winter vacation, but that’s no longer the case.
66
Before hopping from Tahiti to Bora Bora, I stayed overnight in
For East Coasters, getting to Bora Bora became a lot easier when Air
Papeete, the capital. The open-air market provided a chance to stock up on
Tahiti Nui (nui means big in Tahitian) began direct flights out of New York’s
Tahitian vanilla beans and floral soaps redolent with coconut oil and sweet-
JFK to Faa’a International Airport on Tahiti, a sister island to Bora Bora. The
scented local gardenia or tiare fleur. If you love pearls, as I do (remember,
12-plus hours slip by, and in truth, this voyage is only an additional three
this is the home of the prized black pearl), you can become something of
hours past—and a sharp left from—Hawaii.
an instant expert by visiting the Musée de la Perle. I capped the day off
Sprawling over an area the size of Europe, the Pacific territory of
with dinner at Vai’ete Square, where colorful roulettes park at dusk. These
French Polynesia comprises five archipelagos with 118 islands. Tahiti and
are literally restaurants in trucks, with outdoor seating. Try the poisson cru
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SPRING · SUMMER 2008
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(raw fish salad with coconut milk, lime juice and cucumber), and end your meal with Belgian crèpes. A scant 45 minutes away via “little”Air Tahiti lies Bora Bora, ringed by a crystal-clear lagoon and coral-reef islets called motu. Take a window seat and keep a camera ready: The vistas will leave your mouth agape. The island-hopper lands on motu Mute, a spit of foliage-encircled land that serves as the Bora Bora airstrip. Built by U.S. airmen in World War II, it has changed little since they left, reluctantly, in 1946. I still had one short trip left: a boat ride to motu Toopua, where the Bora Bora Lagoon Resort & Spa awaited me. A gleaming white yacht skimmed the water to the resort’s private island. Jumbo fiery-scarlet hibiscus perfumed the air in my room, where the housekeeping staff had painstakingly arranged the blooms in the shape of a crimson heart on my bed. Flora in the bath, on the nightstand, on the desk—lush foliage abounds everywhere: The hotel has planted more than 20,000 bushes, trees and flowering plants around the 12-acre property. The best rooms are the over-water bungalows, those thatch-roof “huts” on stilts, each with its own deck and staircase down into the lagoon. Inside you’ll find “Tahitian TV”—a glass-covered coffee table, the top of which is removable and the bottom of which is a hole in the floor, open to the sea. At night, TAHITIAN BLACK PEARLS ARE PRIZED TREASURES OF FRENCH POLYNESIA. BELOW, ROOM-SERVICE BREAKFAST ARRIVES BY CANOE AT THE BORA BORA LAGOON RESORT & SPA.
HANDS PREPARE A GARLAND OF NATIVE FLOWERS, USED TO WELCOME VISITORS.
BoraBora.0313.Final
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A TAHITIAN “TREE HOUSE” IS HOME TO THE SYBARITIC MARÙ SPA AT THE BORA BORA LAGOON RESORT.
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LOCAL CHILDREN AT PLAY REFLECT THE MOOD OF THE WHOLE ISLAND. SHALLOW REEFS (RIGHT) MAKE FOR GREAT SNORKELING. BELOW, ENJOYING A FOOT SOAK AT THE SPA.
turn on the light below your bungalow and toss bread crumbs into the shallows, then watch the show as parrot-, trumpet-, and squirrelfish swoop in to feed. Dining for humans also takes on new meaning around the water, with a canoe-delivered breakfast—the local version of room service— of fresh tropical fruit and luscious berry drinks. I also suggest a sumptuous motu picnic, where you shuttle to an uninhabited motu and laze around the beach while an island cook builds a fire pit and barbecues the catch-of-theday, which you eat seated at a table in two feet of warm lagoon water. In between meals, you can arrange for any number of water-related activities: water-skiing, parasailing, a leisurely sail on a Hobie Cat, a moonlight cruise or a fishing charter, where you might catch marlin, tuna, sailfish or mahi mahi. There is so much awesome life in the water that all the hotel’s guest room closets are outfitted with fins, masks, water sandals and so on. I snorkeled till my skin wrinkled up like a Sharpei’s. There are enviable dive spots around the reefs for serious scuba divers. If you’re not the type to put on a wetsuit or even get wet, then ask about a trip on a glass-bottomed boat, where a peek at aquarium-worthy reef triggerfish, blue-spotted grouper and threadfin butterflyfish awaits you. I recommend topping off each day with a visit to the hotel’s Marù Spa, a part of which is built 12 feet above the ground into two 40-foot ficus altissima, under a canopy of emerald leaves. Several treatment rooms are WATER PHOTO: JEAN-PIERRE PIEUCHOT
literally in the trees, with lagoon panoramas. Luxuriate in a Tahitian Rainstorm Treatment or a traditional Polynesian massage (taurumi maohi), or dip into the spa’s coconut-milk filled plunge pool. After a few self-indulgent days here, you’ll see why everyone who comes to Bora Bora feels as I do—that I’m marking time until my next visit.
RESOURCES FOR PLANNING A TRIP TO BORA BORA www.boraboralagoon.com
R U T H A . K AT Z writes frequently on luxury goods and travel. She is a
www.tahiti-tourisme.com
contributing editor to Golf Connoisseur.
www.airtahitinui.com
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ELEGANCE WAS GARY COOPER’S CALLING CARD, AND HE HAD THE WARDROBE TO MATCH.
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GARY COOPER Whether playing Marlene Dietrich’s rakish lover in Morocco
(Chambertin-Clos de Bèze)—something he picked up at the
(1930), baseball great Lou Gehrig in Pride of the Yankees (1942) or
elbow of Countess Dorothy Di Frasso, an older, very much mar-
solitary hero Marshal Will Kane in High Noon (1952), Gary Cooper
ried American living in Rome who “educated” Gary from 1931 to
had everybody under his spell. Legend has it actress Luise Rainier
1932. She taught him how to dress (shirts from Turnbull & Asser,
literally got weak in the knees when she first caught sight of him
suits from Savile Row) and lavished him with a Continental
at the Beverly Wilshire Hotel. And the typing pool at Paramount
wardrobe, including white gloves and a round derby hat (but stop-
was said to fall silent whenever he—aka “the most beautiful hunk
ping short of a monocle and cane).
of man who ever walked down the hall”—appeared.
world. Inwardly, I was a scared young man,” he said of his
just a fraction of his appeal. What gave him true star quality were
Roman holiday and the gnawing fear that Hollywood might not be
the contrasts that shaped his life, imbuing him with a fascinating
so hospitable upon his return. He could have spared himself the
vulnerability, a quiet strength and the effortless sense of style
worry—he had 64 films in his future, including such classics as
that sparked the line “trying hard to look like Gary Cooper” in
Beau Geste (1939), Meet John Doe (1941) and Friendly
Irving Berlin’s song “Puttin’ on the Ritz.”
Persuasion (1956).
Despite his aw-shucks, yep-nope demeanor, the cowboy from
If anything might have cut his career short, it was an
Helena, Montana, was anything but simple … or simple-minded.
encounter with a charging lion—but a lucky shot spared him.
Sent by his British-born parents to school in Kent, England, he
And the experience stuck with him for life: “The biggest thrill in
returned to Helena three years later a well-bred 12-year-old in
the world to me was the time I was in Africa shooting big game.
shorts, Eton collar and straw hat. An artist who drew in a note-
I love Africa. I love its bigness, its toughness, the savagery you
book throughout high school, he was a gentle, modest soul who
can feel all around you at any place in the continent,” a senti-
stumbled by accident onto the silver screen—and never forgot
ment shared by his hunting buddy Ernest Hemingway. As
that his fortune could change at any time: “There ain’t never a
mementos, he brought home 60 mounted trophies, Masai
horse that couldn’t be rode; there ain’t never a rider that couldn’t
shields … and a chimp named Toluca, who had the run of his
be throwed,” was his mantra.
OPPOSITE PAGE: CORBIS; THIS PAGE: EVERETT COLLECTION
“Outwardly, I was playing my new role, a poised man of the
But the good looks attached to that 6'3" frame accounted for
Beverly Hills home. Not the coziest envi-
While Cooper may not have indulged
ronment for a new wife, yet when Cooper
his ego, indulge he did: Scotch, cigarettes,
married Veronica “Rocky” Balfe, she
guns, cars and, yes, women were his weak-
shared the digs—and even the dinner
nesses. As soon as he became a big star,
table—with Toluca.
he splurged for status wheels—a 1930
To the end, Cooper remained a model
Duesenberg, the most expensive automo-
of grace, kindness and subtle style, never
bile of its day. (Not to be outdone, rival star
claiming to be more than an average-
Clark Gable had his Duesie custom
looking, awkward cowboy who just got
designed to be a foot longer than Cooper’s.)
lucky. As Ray Stricklyn, the actor who
Equally content riding horseback or
played Cooper’s son in Ten North Frederick,
racing cars, growing avocados or playing
remarked: “One of my final lines in the film
grease monkey, blowing his harmonica or
seems to be very right to describe Gary
strumming a guitar, Cooper also had a
Cooper: ‘He was a gentleman in a world
taste for fine food (baby lobsters) and wine
that no longer respects gentlemen.’”
Gary Cooper didn’t have to try hard to look stylish—it came effortlessly.
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Malt.0313.final
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{ malt }
BY M A R K D O W D E N
vintage speyside THE GLENROTHES
celebrates its evolving whisky with a unique vintage concept
“IT WOULD BE NO TRUE OR, at least, no very discerning lover of whisky
north, you can easily complete a round of golf after 10 p.m. in high summer)
who could enter this almost sacred zone without awe,” wrote Aeneas
make for a stellar crop year after year. Water, the other ingredient in malt
MacDonald in 1930. He was speaking of Speyside, the home to nearly 50
whisky, is also abundant. The Spey is fed by many smaller rivers—the Livet,
distilleries—more than half the number in Scotland. Speyside takes its
the Fiddich, the Lossie, the Dulan—and these in turn are fed by burns and
name from the River Spey, the fastest flowing in Britain, which rises in the
springs, many of them rich in minerals that impart distinctive flavors to the
granite Monadhliath Mountains,
whiskies. Pure air and a mild climate are perfect for aging the distilled spirit.
weaves north and east through
While there are endless variations, the typical qualities of Speyside
fertile farmland, and flows into
malts are sweetness, fruit flavors and floral aromas—qualities accessible
the Moray Firth at Spey Bay.
to most any palate and prized the world over. In fact, seven of the 10 best-
In Speyside, the climate
selling single malts are from Speyside: Glenfiddich, the world’s top seller;
and natural resources are perfect
Glenlivet, the most popular in the U.S.; Glen Grant, the most popular in
for producing single malts of great
Italy; Aberlour, the most popular in France (did you know the French drink
character. Most of the distilleries
more Scotch than Cognac?); Cardhu, the most popular in Japan; and
use locally grown barley from
Macallan and Balvenie.
the Laigh o’ Moray. Mild
But let’s stray from the beaten path and sample what was, until
weather and long sum-
recently, a Speyside sleeper: the Glenrothes. A close neighbor of the
mer days (this far
Macallan, the Glenrothes distillery dates back 130 years. On December 28,
MAP: DAVID ATKINSON/HANDMADE MAPS LTD.
Holy Hand Grenade: Looking like
the personal explosive device from Monty Python & the Holy
Grail, the Glenrothes’ bottle holds as creamy and elegant a whisky as Speyside ever brought forth.
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SPRING · SUMMER 2008
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Hard by a graveyard, the Glenrothes distillery is said to be haunted (lucky ghosts). The copper pot stills (lower left) have unusually large boiling balls, a key to producing the characteristic fruitiness of the spirit. Aging takes place predominantly in ex-sherry casks (lower right).
1879, the night of the Tay Bridge Disaster, when the new railway bridge
of “exceptional personality” to represent a particular year. As with
collapsed in a storm and sent 75 passengers to their deaths in the icy
champagne, in some years, no vintage is declared.
waters of the River Tay, warm spirit first flowed from the stills of
The vintage concept meshes well with the culture of single-malt
Glenrothes. Today the output is prodigious—more than 1 million gallons
connoisseurship. Of 16 vintages released by the Glenrothes to date, 14
a year—but as in the old days, almost all of it is used as a top dressing
have sold out. A few have been reissued, but demand has so thoroughly
in blended whiskies, notably Cutty Sark and the Famous Grouse. Only
outstripped supply that the introduction of a non-vintage single-malt
2 percent of the Glenrothes is bottled as single malt.
bottling seemed inevitable. Enter the Glenrothes Select Reserve. This
Like any great whisky, the Glenrothes is made with almost sacramental care. Local barley is still malted on site in Saladin boxes.
expression is a vatting—a blend from casks of different, unspecified years—which gives the distiller the flexibility to maintain consistency.
The malt is mashed with water from the distillery’s private springs, the
Although it has been selling like oat cakes, the Glenrothes 1991
Ardcanny and “The Lady’s Well” in the nearby Glen of Dounie. The cop-
is one vintage expression you should have no trouble finding.
per pot stills, installed for the centenary in 1979, are copies of the orig-
Complex, elegant and delicious, it’s equally suitable as an aperitif
inals, down to replicated dents. These stills have an especially large
and as an after-dinner drink. The Special Reserve also comes
boiling ball, which encourages reflux and helps to produce the fruity
highly recommended.
spirit characteristic of the brand. Aging takes place in Spanish oak casks used formerly for oloroso sherry. Ex-bourbon barrels from Kentucky are
TASTING NOTES | THE GLENROTHES 1991
also used here but to a lesser extent.
COLOR I Rose gold and clear
There is a “house style” of the Glenrothes, characterized by ripe dark fruits, citrus and vanilla; a rich, creamy texture; and a spicy finish.
NOSE I
Orange peel dipped in dark chocolate, prunes stewed in orange juice,
Honey Maid graham crackers, a hint of curry
In recent years, the distillery has opted to celebrate variations of this style by adopting a vintage concept: Bottlings are determined not by age but by “vintage,” in pursuit of which, the malt master seeks casks M A R K D O W D E N was educated at the University of St. Andrews,
Scotland, where he learned about pot stills and pot bunkers.
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/
SPRING · SUMMER 2008
PALATE I Mouth-blanketing creaminess; oranges, kumquats and hay; vanilla,
butterscotch pudding, plums, pralines, burned toast … smooth and heavy in a very good way FINISH I Long and sweet, with more vanilla and prunes, raisins and delicate spices PRICE I $65 to $78
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BOYDS_Spring.indd 133
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{ fitness }
BY M A R I A L I S S A N D R E L L O
Move over, boot camp:
Training just got a lot easier, thanks to the TRX suspension
Hanging with the SEALs
system, which keeps you solid to the core.
NECESSITY may be the mother of invention, but the fact is, if Navy
ceiling beam, stuck his feet in the “stirrups” and did push-ups, planks
SEALs didn’t have a way with needle and thread, the hottest fitness
and dozens of other exercises. But because his feet were suspended,
craze since spinning might never have seen the light of day. Called TRX
he had to enlist his core muscles to keep his body balanced.
(total resistance exercise) suspension training, it was created when Navy SEAL squadron Randy
commander
Hetrick was
looking for a way to keep his crew in shape: “My guys needed something we could use in the tight
He and his buddies soon realized the genius of his two-pound resistance-training apparatus: Not only did it build strength, but it could A few straps
and two handles— looks simple enough, and that’s all you
travel anywhere, and the only thing required to make it fully operational was a sturdy anchor— anything from a thick tree limb to a bolt. That was six years ago, and the TRX sys-
need to pump up a
tem has since been refashioned and refined.
fitness routine.
Hetrick has developed more than 300 exercises
quarters of a submarine, a safe
(log on to www.fitnessanywhere.com for
house or remote operating base envi-
instructions and equipment) and now counts
ronments—literally anywhere.” What about push-ups, sit-ups and squats? Sure, they helped, but they couldn’t work the body’s back, rhomboids and core. Then Hetrick had a brainstorm. He stitched together nylon parachute straps and rubber handles (yep, Navy SEALs learn how to sew—it’s how they maintain their gear), hooked the contraption to a 134
/
SPRING · SUMMER 2008
among die-hard fans Houston Texans safety Will Demps, New Orleans Saints quarterback Drew Brees and Baltimore Orioles pitcher Adam Loewen. One reason the pros are so gung ho about hanging? Since it pits your own body weight against gravity,
T WO E XC E P T I O N A L R E S TAU R A N T S I N O N E G R E AT C I T Y.
Due Ristoranti Eccezionali in una Città Grande. Le Castagne, a modern taste of Milan, j u s t o n e b l o c k f ro m B oyd s i n R i t t e n h o u s e Sq u a re L a Fa m i g l i a , O l d Wo r l d e l e g a n c e a n d flawless service in historic Old City
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BOYDS_Spring.indd 135
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PUMPING
for volume
If you don’t have a personal trainer at your beck and call for home cardio workouts (or if Sven is on vacation), consider the digital equivalent—the softballsized EnterTrainer ($140), which hooks onto your treadmill or other cardio machine. This intelligent gadget acts as both heart-rate monitor and wireless remote control, lowering your TV or stereo volume the second your heart rate falls. Like Sven, the device is demanding and effective. (www.theentertrainer.com; 1-TV-TURNS-YOU-ON)
Adaptability is key to the TRX workout: Adjust the straps, change your positioning and you’ve got a custom regime.
tandems
GO HIGH TECH
Cyclists who scoff at bicycles built for two, regarding them as too ungainly for serious training, should check out the T2000 from Trek
the risk of additional injury is low; plus, the system makes for a superefficient workout. That’s because unlike weight machines, suspension
($3,850). This top-of-the-line tandem is comfortable, smooth, solid
training engages multiple muscles, providing a total body workout in
and ultralight—lighter, in fact, than many single-seat bicycles. Its
half the time.
featherweight and twin pedalers make for a fast ride: You and
Not a pro? Hetrick points out that TRX is ideal for beginners too.
your sweetheart can easily cruise at more than 20 mph on the flats,
Adjusting the straps and your body position determines the difficulty
leaving your hammerhead friends in the dust. (www.trekbikes.com)
level, making for a workout that can be custom tailored to your fitness requirements. Not quite sure you’re ready to “hang” from your feet? You can warm up to the idea by gripping the handles with your hands, leaning back and performing anything from rows and chest presses to
singing with
THE FISHES
With everything from ski jackets to bike
lunges and one-legged squats. There’s another reason suspension has caught fire: It has received
helmets redesigned to accommodate
a big thumbs-up from proponents of functional fitness, a movement
digital music players, it was inevitable
emphasizing exercises that make it easier to conquer everyday chal-
that someone would get around to wiring
lenges, like lugging that 60-pound suitcase up a flight of stairs or
the wetsuit. The Solution Platinum
replacing the water-cooler jug. And the cornerstone of functional fit-
Soundwave wetsuit from Billabong ($500)
ness is precisely what TRX does so beautifully—get all the muscles of the body working synergistically to build strength, boost balance, increase flexibility and sculpt a lean, fit physique. Now that you’ve got the hang of it, you might want to give it a try.
features a removable waterproof MP3 player with 512 megabytes of storage (room for about 160 songs) and headphones integrated into the lining.
M A R I A L I S S A N D R E L L O writes frequently on living the luxe life.
136
/
SPRING · SUMMER 2008
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AFCfitness.com 3/12/08 10:43:57 PM
HoroscopeBoyd.0313.Final
3/13/08
11:24 AM
Page 138
{ horoscope } YOUR
STYLE
BY K I K I T.
FORECAST
AS
WRITTEN
IN
THE
S TA R S
ARIES
Working with new concepts and new
(March 21 ~ April 19)
people will take you to the next level. Do it with flair.
Spring enters with a whirlwind of activity
Top Cosmic Refreshers:
that will have you racing about town at
VACATION I THE DORDOGNE
top speed. Lucky for you, this is the pace
DINING I CASSOULET
you love. You’ll be at your best to launch
NECESSITY I BOTTEGA VENETA HANDBAG
entrepreneurial ventures, respark romance
INDULGENCE I PERSONAL CHEF
with your partner and even reignite your own love of self. Free-flowing optimism can take you to a new level of understand-
LEO
ing and have you believing in magic.
(July 23 ~ August 22)
Embrace it fully, and others will become
The world is yours, literally: Real estate
believers too.
ventures, especially international ones, can
Top Cosmic Refreshers:
be lucrative for you now. This may be an
VACATION I SUMMER SKIING IN PORTILLO
opportune moment to buy a vacation home.
DINING I JAMÓN SERRANO
Exploring the ends of the earth for your par-
NECESSITY I DRIVING GLOVES
adise can recharge your business acumen
INDULGENCE I LAMBORGHINI REVENTÓN
and your amorous endeavors. Bring along your loved one and make it a journey for two. The jaunt will be worth its weight in
TAURUS
romantic gold.
(April 20 ~ May 20)
Just remember, it’s your hard work that has
Are old troubles still weighing you down?
brought you into such demand, and you’re
VACATION I MADAGASCAR
It’s time to put the past in the past. Silently
really in the driver’s seat, darling. Delegate
DINING I CLASSIC STEAKHOUSE
holding onto grudges isn’t winning you any
appropriately, and by summertime, your
NECESSITY I .300 HOLLAND & HOLLAND RIFLE
sympathy, so say what needs to be said and
efforts will be obvious and your genius
INDULGENCE I BOAR HUNTING IN ROMANIA
move on. By getting back in touch with your
praised accordingly.
Venusian spirit, you’re bound to reconnect to
Top Cosmic Refreshers:
a more hopeful feeling. Extend spring clean-
VACATION I NORDIC FJORD CRUISE
VIRGO
ing to your wardrobe, and watch a bold new
DINING I PAN-ASIAN
(August 23 ~ September 22)
you emerge.
NECESSITY I RAKU TEA SET
Sign contracts and seal the deal on any
Top Cosmic Refreshers:
INDULGENCE I TANZANITE JEWELRY
ongoing negotiations now. This will clear up
VACATION I VANCOUVER AND VICTORIA ISLAND
Top Cosmic Refreshers:
the second half of your year to reap the
DINING I DUNGENESS CRAB NECESSITY I VERTU MOBILE PHONE
CANCER
INDULGENCE I WALK-IN WINE COOLER
(June 21 ~ July 22)
rewards and expand on what you establish. That’s not to say all will be smooth sailing. You’ll be challenged to fine-tune the details of your visions—a task you’ll relish, as yours is
in the works could use a dose of idealism
GEMINI
the sign of precision.
and imagination. We all feel more in con-
(May 21 ~ June 20)
Top Cosmic Refreshers:
trol dealing with what we know, but resist
VACATION I ZIHUATANEJO
You were born to be the life of the party, but
doing the same ol’, same ol’. Your
DINING I CEVICHE
that doesn’t mean you always enjoy it. For a
assignment: Push yourself to enter new
NECESSITY I BOLÍVAR CIGARS
time, everyone else will have plans for you,
territory. If you can’t make this transition
INDULGENCE I 36 HOLES AT PALMILLA
leaving you feeling like you have no control.
alone, sign up a partner to add inspiration.
138
/
SPRING · SUMMER 2008
CONTINUED
SARAH WILKINS
Realism is overrated—the plans you have
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BOYDS_Spring.indd 139
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11:24 AM
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{ horoscope }
LIBRA
AQUARIUS
(September 23 ~ October 22)
(January 20 ~ February 19)
Forget those fantasies of what your love life
Obligations are an inevitable part of life, but
should be. Instead, focus on realistic steps
remember, you can’t be all things to all
to improve your situation. If you’re with
people. So recheck your list of priorities and
someone, plan an escape to an exotic spot
streamline. By calling your own shots, you’ll
where you can reconnect peacefully and
have an opportunity to more richly and fully
romantically. If you’re single, visualize the
develop your own personal style. Reclaim
relationship you most desire, then be open
your freedom, and your psyche will thank you.
to the power of fate. Throw away your
Top Cosmic Refreshers:
script and embrace the surprises that
VACATION I TASMANIA
come your way.
DINING I THAI
Top Cosmic Refreshers:
NECESSITY I DUNHILL CUFF LINKS
VACATION I MUSTIQUE
INDULGENCE I BENETTI YACHT
DINING I PLATEAU DE FRUITS DE MER NECESSITY I ITALIAN SUITS
PISCES
INDULGENCE I FRANCK MULLER WATCH
(February 20 ~ March 20) A major decision is coming down to the wire,
SCORPIO
and your choice will send your life in a daring
(October 23 ~ November 21)
new direction. Yes, the pressure will be
The power you’ve dreamt of is now in your
intense and the repercussions long-term.
hands, but the big cosmic test this season
Unfortunately, logic and your instincts will be
is how you’ll wield it. All eyes are on you,
are in for a long ride before this vision
going in opposite directions, causing confu-
so remember: There is always someone
achieves its full glory.
sion. But the good news is that once you’ve
just as hungry waiting to take your spot at
Top Cosmic Refreshers:
made up your mind, your full commitment—
the helm. But since you’re charismatic, bril-
VACATION I SANTORINI
and excitement—will follow.
liant and superb at thinking for the long
DINING I STEAK SOFRIDO
Top Cosmic Refreshers:
term, you’re sure to captivate even your
NECESSITY I OSTRICH-SKIN PASSPORT HOLDER
VACATION I SHANGHAI
fiercest competitors and bring them under
INDULGENCE I PET OSTRICH
DINING I ROTISSERIE MEATS
your sway.
NECESSITY I CUSTOM SHIRTS
Top Cosmic Refreshers:
INDULGENCE I VANDERSTEEN HOME THEATER
VACATION I THE GALAPAGOS
CAPRICORN
DINING I RACK OF RIBS, CHILEAN STYLE
(December 22 ~ January 19)
NECESSITY I CASHMERE HOODIE
Although you’re the zodiac’s natural-born
INDULGENCE I CASHMERE TRAVEL BLANKET
businessperson, this year will bring new twists on how you deal with others. You’ll
SAGITTARIUS (November 22 ~ December 21)
learn to compromise with different personality types, which will require you to slow down your pace and become more methodical
Spontaneous notions are your best, but
in your demands. The results will enable you
masterpieces aren’t created in an instant. So
to be even more effective in all your efforts.
accept new ideas as they come. However, be
Top Cosmic Refreshers:
careful of getting too far ahead of yourself.
VACATION I BUENOS AIRES
Patience is a lesson you are continually learn-
DINING I ASADO WITH CHIMICHURRI
ing, and it’s more critical now than ever.
NECESSITY I GUCCI LOAFERS
Passion will come on quickly. Sit tight: You
INDULGENCE I CUSTOM BED LINENS
140
/
SPRING · SUMMER 2008
K I K I T. is the author of The Celestial Sexpot’s Handbook: Astrological Tips for Satisfying Seduction and Ultimate L ove.
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{ man of style }
BY F R A N C E S C A M O I S I N
your life in scrubs or a racing suit! But when I do get to pick my outfits, I choose clothes that are casual yet elegant. I love pairing nice jeans with a dress shirt made by Robert Graham, Etro or Dolce & Gabbana. While driving you also need good footwear, and I like to slip on a pair of comfortable Tod’s loafers when I take my family for a cruise in the Bentley.
Q } How long have you been a customer at Boyds? Since I was an undergraduate at Harvard. At the time I was so poor all I could afford from Boyds was a pair of socks. Still, I loved the idea of treating myself to something nice. I’ve had the same personal shopper, Ron Condello, since 1985. He even helped me buy my first interview suit. It wasn’t Brioni or Canali, but for me it might as well have been a million-dollar suit. That’s how good I felt when I put it on.
Q } Do you have a favorite designer? I always tell people that my favorite designer is Sparco—they make racing suits. But I own one beautiful blue-gray Canali suit that’s my go-to piece whenever I need something seriously spiffy. My wife helped me pick out a few shirts and ties to match, and she definitely deserves the lion’s share of credit for making even a project like me look good! I’m a bit of an odd size in some ways—though thankfully not as thick around the middle since I started racing, because it is a very physically demanding sport—so I also have all my suits tailored at Boyds. That makes my life so easy: All my clothes fit perfectly when I get them back.
JIM
LOWE
Q } Are there any styles you dislike? I’m just praying the ’70s look never comes back in style. In sixth grade I went to a football banquet dressed in a tan, 100 percent polyester suit with an airplane-print shirt. I thought I looked great at the time, but I wouldn’t want to repeat the experience. Otherwise, I’m pretty liberal when considering new looks. My wife is also a strong supporter of the Boyds women’s department, and when we shop together I’ll often ask her opinion about a funky Paul Smith shirt or Burberry jacket.
ONE MIGHT WONDER how he finds the time. When not performing
neurosurgery at one of two New Jersey hospitals—AtlantiCare in Atlantic City and Virtua West Jersey in Marlton—James Lowe, M.D., likes to take his Porsche 911 GT3 out for a 180mile-per-hour spin. “I compete professionally with my team,
Q } Do you have a favorite racing outfit? We wear purpose-made flame-proof jackets and pants, and one thing I love about playing a sport is wearing the uniform. Many of our TRG team outfits now come from Hugo Boss. Since Boyds is one of our biggest sponsors, several of them also bear the very classy Boyds logo, which is great.
The Racer’s Group (TRG), throughout the year,” says Lowe, “but my favorite event is the 24-hour endurance race in Daytona.” Other leisure activities include snowboarding with wife Ginny (Vail is a favorite vacation spot), driving go-karts with 6-year-old son Aidan and shopping at Boyds for “99 percent of the clothing I own.” Recently, Dr. Lowe even made time to give BOYDS magazine a peek inside his life—and closet.
When not in the operating room or on the track, neurosurgeon/ race-car driver James Lowe, M.D., favors casually elegant apparel. Nearly all of Jim’s clothing—from his “seriously spiffy” Canali suit
Q } How would you describe your personal style?
to his favorite dress shirts—
It’s a bit hard to have a personal style when you spend most of
comes from Boyds.
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