STYLE WATCH
the RIGHT WAY This gentleman’s primer will help you look perfectly polished.
Don’t know the difference between a trilby and a fedora? You’re not alone. Plenty of men eschew accessorizing because they are unsure of the right way to incorporate pieces, such as scarves and vests. Consider this our campaign to change your mind about the sartorial details you may be avoiding. So, go ahead. Follow these tips for donning accessories like a pro and upgrade your summer style.
IN-VESTED There is no right or wrong way to wear a vest: You simply put it over or under anything in your wardrobe for a fashionable, layered look. Trade in the suit jacket or blazer for a knit or twill vest on hot, humid days. Or keep it traditional with a three-piece suit. Simply remove your suit jacket and you’ll still look professional while staying cool. If you want to slenderize your midsection, nothing is more flattering than a knit vest. Rather than wearing a button-front shirt tucked into pants with a dark belt circling the widest part of the body, a knit vest covers the middle, creating a more flattering line. It is best to match the color of the vest to the color of the pants for a minimizing monochromatic look. Or if the vest has a pattern, match the base color to the pants. On those spring days when there is still a nip in the air, a lightweight nylon quilted vest is the quintessential outerwear piece. This season, brightly hued outerwear is all the rage. Utility and field vests are still popular, and we love that they combine function with fashion. When traveling, a vest with many pockets will save you from frantically searching through your carry-on for your passport, cash, credit cards, phone, ad infinitum.
| JOHN CRAIG
FIT TO BE TIED
14 JOH.ss22.the right way 3.indd 14
A group of mathematicians in Stockholm recently calcuated that there are 177,147 ways to tie a tie. But most men wear one of three basic tie knots: the fourin-hand, the half Windsor and the full Windsor. The last is a thick, wide triangular knot that is said to project confidence and works well with on-trend spread and cutaway shirt collars. Once you decide on the knot, make sure the tip of your tie ends at the middle of your belt buckle or waistband. Too long and the look is frumpy; too short and it just looks silly. And if you still have wide ties hanging in your closet, give them away. The acceptable width for a tie in 2022 ranges from 2½ inches to 3 inches. Historically, silk has been the fabric of choice for neckwear, but these days
designers are blending silk with wool, wool with cotton and cotton with linen for a look that’s less shiny and very on trend. Try a luxury blend or a pure cashmere for a more contemporary expression.
DON’T SCOFF THE SCARF If you’ve traveled to Italy, you’ve probably noticed many more Italian men wear scarves in warmer weather than men in the States do. Even in sweltering heat, you’ll see Italian men draping, tying or wrapping beautiful lengths of fabric around their necks. The good news is tying a scarf is a lot easier than tying a tie. The best way to wear a scarf—the nonchalant Italian way—is simply to drape it around the neck and let the ends hang down. If you prefer to wrap or tie, there are two easy ways to do it: For a once-around wrap, drape the scarf around the neck, one end longer than the other. Wrap the longer end around the neck and let both ends hang down. Our favorite way to wear a scarf: Fold it in half lengthwise, drape it over the neck and bring the loose ends through the opening formed by the folded end. Tighten to your comfort level. For spring, try featherweight cashmere, printed linen and linen blends to add a touch of personality to both sportswear and tailored clothing.
TOP IT OFF The fedora remains the quintessential gentleman’s hat. While it’s no longer the 1940s when almost every man in the stands at Yankee Stadium wore a fedora, this classic model remains a widely recognized symbol of masculinity and class. In recent years, however, styles including bucket hats, trilbys and baseball caps have added a suitably rebellious touch to any look—from a T-shirt and jeans to a traditional suit. Once you’ve mastered the rules for styling accessories the “right way,” go ahead and break them to express your own individual style.
1/28/22 1:30 PM
