grooming

When a beard gets weird

Unevenness? Bare patches? A few simple tips can help your face be happily hirsute.

Face it: Facial hair seems to have a mind of its own.

Just as some male chins are more thickly forested than others, many men’s faces have blank spots or areas where facial hair grows unevenly. But the answer needn’t be to go clean-shaven. With some smart strategies and a little attention to detail, you’ll be cheered by your beard.

LET IT GROW. A better-defined beard is easier to shape, so play the waiting game before breaking out your trimmers. If you suspect that patches are forming, resist the temptation to shave your beard; let it grow for another month—this will give you better grooming options. There’s a good chance your facial hair will grow fuller and fill the patchy spots after a few weeks—and you may decide that a long beard fits your style. If it doesn’t fill in, however, you’ll at the very least be able to clearly identify where your beard will (and won’t) grow and shape it from there.

KEEP IT TRIMMED. Though patches can sometimes be flattering on a guy’s face, it’s still important to maintain a neat and even appearance. You can incorporate patches into your style by keeping a short beard. (This also helps camouflage some patches.) But take your time shaping your beard, as a few misfires with shears or shavers will leave you with more patches than before.

CLEAN UP THE LINES. A patchy beard can look clean and profesh when it has clearly defined lines. That means using a razor or trimmer to shape sharp borders around your sideburns, cheekbones, jawline and lips. Men with fuller beards should treat them every day by combing in beard oil.

SEE WHAT WORKS FOR YOU. When unwanted patches are part of your beard game, managing the length of your facial hair will work wonders for its appearance. Keeping a short and even growth can minimize the appearance of patches, while a longer beard can cover the blank spots. If neither of these approaches does the job on your face, break into your lady’s makeup bag and grab an eyebrow pencil—you can shade in smaller patches using this trick.

CONDITION YOUR BEARD. Just as you treat the locks on top of your head with care, the hair up front deserves the right products too. Dry and wiry facial hair can cause patches, so conditioning your beard with a good oil or balm will keep it healthy down to the follicles. Exfoliate beneath the hair to remove dry and dead skin—this will improve blood flow, which promotes thicker, healthier hair. A good diet, too, will help with facial hair growth: plenty of water, vitamins B and C and the all-important omega-3s will nourish your beard.

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