Larrimor’s FORUM/THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE/FW 2019
Larrimor’s F W 2 0 1 9 F O R U M / T H E S U B S T A N C E O F S T Y L E
FALL FEVER THE HOTTEST COLD-WEATHER FASHION
TUX TIME THE PERFECT FIT SNEAK PEAKS 6 SKI RESORTS TO VISIT NOW AKRIS PUNTO SWISS STYLE FOR HER
L A R R I M O R S . C O M
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CONTENTS FEATURES
DEPARTMENTS
VERY VINCE!
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Taking a new creative direction helped this distinctly American brand’s fashion star shine brighter than ever.
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Look red hot and keep warm too in these cashmere looks.
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TO BLACK
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Grooming
Should one sex have a monopoly on great skin? Heck, no! Gents, consider these four treatments.
GET THE BOOT
Leather and suede. Chestnut and chocolate. Chelsea and chukka. We get such a kick out of these boots, you’ll want to take them all.
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Final Stitch
Every man can look incredible in a tuxedo—as long as it’s the right one.
TWICE AS NICE
A few key pieces can offer endless options for looking sharp when you’re heading to the office, having drinks with friends or running errands. 52
Made-to-Measure
“Customizing” a garment in a hurry online doesn’t make it custom-made for you. Try true made-to-measure instead.
FALL FEVER
You know the symptoms: You yearn to put away the polos and put on the hottest cold-weather styles.
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Sporting Life
Six new luxe hotels promise to expand your idea of what a ski resort can be—even if you’ve already been to the big-name spots.
Akris Punto designs contemporary styles for the everyday woman that are anything but basic.
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Art
Photographer Frank Habicht captured the ironies, surprises and joys of Britain’s capital in the 1960s, when it rocked the world.
BOLD & NOT-SO-COLD
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Ask Larrimor’s
Your fall fashion dilemmas—solved.
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fall/ winter 2019
COLD FRONT
The season’s outerwear forecast calls for a mix of textures and weights. Prepare to keep warm, dry and looking fly, no matter what Mother Nature has planned.
ROCK THE RUNWAY
You’ll be ready for your closeup in this season’s top picks from Larrimor’s.
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ON THE COVER: On her: dress by Vince. On him: suit, shirt and tie by Ermenegildo Zegna.
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Larrimor’s 249 FIFTH AVENUE PITTSBURGH, PENNSYLVANIA 15222 412-471-5727 LARRIMORS.COM Editor in Chief RITA GUARNA Creative Director STEPHEN VITARBO Senior Editor DARIA MEOLI Senior Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS Lifestyle Editor HALEY LONGMAN Editorial Assistant GIANNA BARONE Art Director VICTORIA BEALL Contributing Photographer DANIEL SPRINGSTON Editor at Large and Founding Editor KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
PUBLISHING STAFF Group Publisher SHAE MARCUS Director of Sales MONICA DELLI SANTI National Account Executive JESSICA SALERNO Director of Production and Distribution STEVE SANBORN Advertising Services Director JACQUELYNN FISCHER Graphic Designer, Ad Services VIOLETA MULAJ Production Art Associate CHRIS FERRANTE Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK
APPAREL FORUM
ANDRISEN MORTON Denver, CO GARYS Newport Beach, CA HUBERT WHITE Minneapolis, MN KILGORE TROUT Cleveland, OH LARRIMOR’S Pittsburgh, PA MALOUF’S Lubbock / Southlake, TX MARIOS Portland, OR / Seattle, WA MITCHELLS Westport, CT / Huntington, NY MITCHELLS/RICHARDS Greenwich, CT OAK HALL Memphis, TN RODES Louisville, KY RUBENSTEINS New Orleans, LA STANLEY KORSHAK Dallas, TX WILKES BASHFORD San Fran/Palo Alto, CA PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, RITA GUARNA LARRIMOR'S is published by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656 in association with LARRIMOR'S. Copyright © 2019 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, LARRIMOR'S, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, LARRIMOR'S, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656; telephone 201.573.5541; Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com. Printed in the U.S.A. Volume 22, Issue 2. ©2019
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ASK FORUM
solving your fashion dilemmas
The heat in my office gets unbearable in winter: How do I simultaneously dress for cold weather and overheated offices? It’s called layering, and it’s the smartest way to dress in winter. Rather than a bulky sweater, try one of our fine gauge merino turtlenecks or a cashmere crew, over which you can wear a beautiful unconstructed sportcoat. Or make that second layer a vest: From cable knits to lightweight quilted styles, we offer many fashion-forward options that are both comfortable and on trend. Tip: Wear a top-quality performance tee under your first layer for extra comfort and temperature control; fabric technology has advanced tremendously in recent seasons so that a simple tee can keep you warmer in the cold and cooler in your overheated office. I’ve been living in sneakers all summer, and I dread the thought of squeezing my feet into rigid dress shoes. Any fall footwear options that are both comfortable and stylish? Yes! The footwear market feels your pain and is offering many variations of hybrid shoes that combine a beautiful soft leather upper with a comfort bottom. Soft leather or suede slip-ons and lace-ups are just as comfortable as canvas sneakers…and notably elevate your style. Come in and check out our fabulous assortment of fall footwear.
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Why do I need to buy expensive underwear when it doesn’t show? Let us count the ways: 1. A great fit. The right base layer makes everything you wear over it look better. Pant styles these days are slimmer, and your old bulky underwear could ruin your look. 2. For comfort. New luxury performance fabrics feel incredibly soft and breathable. 3. To save the planet. Many tech fabrics are sustainably sourced. 4. For easy care. Tech fabrics come out of the washer and dryer looking like new. 5. For their many amazing properties. The wicking, anti-microbial, quick-dry, odor-control and temperature-control of these undies make them worth it. 6. When was the last time you replaced the underwear in your drawer? If your boxers and briefs are old, frayed, stretched out and embarrassingly gray, it’s time! And 7. Wearing the good stuff will make you look and feel younger and sexier. Need we say more? L ARRIM O R’S FALL/W INTE R 2 019
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profiles
very
VINCE!
Taking a new creative direction helped this distinctly American brand’s fashion star shine brighter than ever. By Karen Alberg Grossman It might seem strange to wax poetic about fashion basics—the perfect tee, a well-cut tank, just-right modern pants. But when you talk about well-designed wardrobe staples in soft luxury fabrics that look as good as they feel, poetry is warranted. As we all know, these types of quality basics are hard to find. Fortunately, Vince continues to design simple sophisticated clothes that capture the zeitgeist of contemporary American design.
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According to Jill Norton, Vince’s senior vice president, the success of this modern luxury brand begins with its distinctly West Coast perspective. “Based in Los Angeles, we’ve pioneered luxury in that space, establishing the brand as both aspirational and grounded,” Norton says. “The American customer feels a connection to the innate sense of ease, versatility and effortless approach to luxury while the global customer feels inspired by our carefree yet thoughtfully curated aesthetic.” In 2017, Caroline Belhumeur was hired as creative director to put her magical touch on Vince’s quiet yet polished vibe. She helmed a small but important transition from elevated basics to low-key luxury. Here, we sit down with Belhumeur, who oversees men’s and women’s design (menswear is designed by Patrik Ervell), to learn more about why Vince’s popularity continues to grow. Could you give us a short history of the brand? Vince was founded in 2002 in Los Angeles as a women’s knitwear maker. We introduced menswear in 2007, followed by footwear, handbags, home and, earlier this year, fragrance. What is your creative background? I began my career working for Calvin Klein in NYC before going on to positions at Fenn Wright Manson, White and Warren and Theory Luxe. Prior to Vince, I worked at Club Monaco for 10 years, my last role being creative director overseeing everything from design, store presentation, digital and social media. What was your inspiration for the fall ’19 women’s collection? The collection draws reference to Eduardo Chillida’s Peine del Viento at La Concha Beach in San Sebastián—the sculpture juts out of the cliffs above the ocean below. Our fall colors are inspired by the hues in tide pools, seaweed and the red rust of the metal sculptures. What are the key must-have pieces in the fall ’19 collection? I love the nubuck blazer worn with our flannel wide-leg trouser or high-waist cigarette pant. Dresses range from a velvet wrap model to a lacetrim pleated style. The outerwear is sensational, from a leather trench coat to the quilted down puffer to our long plush faux fur and our long double-breasted model in beautiful textured wool. Vince is famous for luxury basics: Will you continue in this direction? Luxury knitwear and luxury silks will always exist at Vince but we’ll continue to evolve the collection in a way that feels right. We’re exploring what makes sense for Vince in terms of additional categories, including the possibility of expanding our accessories and home collections. We continue to explore color and texture while balancing the timeless pieces we all love.
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must-haves
bold & not-so-cold Look red hot—and keep warm too—by layering cashmere pieces in shades of crimson, magenta, orange and charcoal.
Scarves, jacket and sweater by Kinross Cashmere.
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spotlight
back to
BLACK Swiss womenswear brand Akris Punto designs contemporary styles for the everyday woman that are anything but basic. Like many luxury fashion houses, Akris Punto began as a modest studio, where founder Alice KriemlerSchoch sewed polka dot aprons. Over the course of nearly a century, the St. Gallen, Switzerland-born, family-owned company has transformed itself into one of the most sought-after high-end womenswear brands in the world. Now run by Alice’s grandson, Creative Director Albert Kriemler, Akris Punto branched out into the U.S. retail market in 1988. The label is associated with sleek workwear, chic nightout outfits and sophisticated casual pieces. Made of the finest luxury fabrics sourced directly from Switzerland, the clothes have architectural lines, bodyconscious curves and striking shapes and colors that make the wearer stand out in all the right ways. And despite global success, the fashion house still pays homage to its humble roots—the polka dot is still a prominent part of its logo and branding.
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Sequin animal dot paillettes fine gauge knit tank and Mara jersey pants by Akris Punto.
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lens flair
swinging london,
UNCENSORED Photographer Frank Habicht captured the ironies, surprises and joys of Britain’s capital in the 1960s, when it rocked the world. By Donna Rolando
What a contrast! London, a city steeped in bowler-hatted tradition with a history dating back to Roman times, was shedding its buttoned-up reputation to embrace the spirit of freedom in a revolution that spanned all aspects of life—love, fashion, music and culture. In the ’60s, as the usually staid capital of the British Commonwealth mixed with pop culture in a way sure to raise the Queen’s eyebrows, the whole world was watching. Millions were ready to groove along with London’s mod crowd as an advance guard of worldwide hippiedom. And there, capturing this profound social change with unbridled passion, was German photographer Frank Habicht. Today he has traded an international career for life in New Zealand, celebrating the landscape and community around the Bay of Islands. But when the ’60s revolution was in full swing, Habicht was London-based, with an audience throughout Europe in publications such as Esquire and The Guardian, and
was working as a stills photographer for film directors including Roman Polanski. For an artist devoted to illustrating life’s contrasts, the Swinging ’60s provided endless opportunity to explore, as Habicht put it, “what hides behind the human soul.” Some of his most celebrated photos captured pop idols and film stars, such as rock musicians Mick Jagger and The Rolling Stones, actress Vanessa Redgrave and actors Christopher Lee and Marty Feldman. But Habicht turned the lens with equal devotion to the girl next door, in the latest groovy, psychedelic fashions such as miniskirts and go-go boots, or in nothing at all. It was realism, uncensored, by a camera genius highlighting a great city’s diversity, spanning, as one writer attested, from “protests to private parties, markets to mansions, film sets to festivals.” He used black-andwhite film as though fearful that color might compromise authenticity (despite the color-besotted fashions of Carnaby Street),
and he produced a treasure trove of artistry worthy of many exhibits and photo books. The latest such volume, entitled As It Was: Frank Habicht’s Sixties, is available internationally at bookstores and art galleries and on Amazon. Released at a time when Britain is again in the throes of social change, As It Was contains never-before-published images that show the same candidness that marks his famous work. Critics prize Habicht for poising himself at the center of a social storm. It seems the photographer wouldn’t have it any other way. He admits that life’s complexities astound him, and that his photos can blur the lines of reality and fantasy, “capturing togetherness, despair, rebellion, isolation, joy and sadness, surrounded by beauty and drama.” Some say digging into life’s ironies is how Habicht reflected the restless heart of a city so masterfully. Whether you’re a hippie in spirit or just an appreciator of ’60s fashion, As It Was is a coffee-table addition that’s unlikely to gather dust.
Opposite page, clockwise from top: “Marriage a la Mode” (top) shows a ’60s remake of wedding tradition, which Habicht instinctively captures in his truer-than-life style; youth and maturity, pop culture and traditional workplace garb come together as part of everyday life; floppy hats and starburst eye makeup (left) reflect a generation’s independent spirit.
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fall
FEVER You know the symptoms: You yearn to put away the polos and put on the hottest coldweather styles. Photography by Dan Springston
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This page, on her: Dress by Vince and shoes by Stuart Weitzman. On him: Suit, shirt, tie and shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Opposite: Jacket and jeans by Isaia, knit sweater by Eleventy, shirt by Giannetto Man and pocket square by Eton.
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This page: Suit, tie and pocket square by Canali and shirt by Isaia. Opposite: Jacket by Peter Millar, turtleneck by Ermenegildo Zegna and hat by Biltmore.
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TAY L O R R I C H A R D S & C O N G E R
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This page: Suit and turtleneck by Ermenegildo Zegna. Opposite: Floral shirt by Vince.
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On this page: Denim jacket, shirt and jeans by BLDWN. Opposite: Hooded jacket, knit sweater and pants by Vince.
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A U T U M N | W I N T E R C O L L E C T I O N 2 019
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footwear
get the
BOOT
Leather and suede. Chestnut and chocolate. Chelsea and chukka. We get such a kick out of these boots, you’ll want to take them all.
Clockwise from top: Chelsea boot by To Boot New York, leather wingtip boot and work boot by Allen Edmonds, black dress chukka boot and suede lace-up boot (center) by Gravati and desert boot by Alden.
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clothes talk
TWICE AS NICE A few key pieces can offer endless options for looking sharp when you’re heading to the office, having drinks with friends or running weekend errands. Photography by Dan Springston
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High Performance A navy suit in a performance fabric will keep you comfortable while looking professional. For double duty, style the jacket as a layering piece to create a more casual vibe.
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clothes talk
Mad about Plaid Think patterns are less versatile than solids? Think again. You can mix and match this season’s coolest plaids into several looks.
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Made in the Suede Suede jackets work as outerwear when there’s a chill in the air or can be swapped in for a textured alternative to a suit and tie.
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clothes talk
Tight Knit Chunky cardigans are a go-to layering piece over a shirt and tie or a basic tee.
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Made By Hand in Chicago, USA
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RUNWAY
rock the
Whether you’re headed to the office or the hottest new spot in town, you’ll be ready for your closeup in this season’s top picks from Larrimor’s.
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Flannel shirt and jeans by Rag & Bone.
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On her, sweater by Brochu Walker, jeans by Hudson. On him, hooded sweater, polo shirt, pants and sneakers by Eleventy.
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Jacket by Circolo 1901, denim by Hudson, scarf by Blak Rust.
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On her, coat by Cinzia Rocca, sweater by Brochu Walker, jeans by Hudson. On him, jacket, sweater and pants by Vince, sneakers by To Boot New York.
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On her, coat by Herno, sweater and pants by Lafayette 148. On him, sportcoat, sweater and pants by Ermenegildo Zegna, shirt by Eton, boots by To Boot New York.
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Coat by Canada Goose, sweater by Escada, jeans by Hudson.
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On her, sweater and skirt by Vince. On him, sportcoat by Canali, shirt by Eton, pants by Hiltl, shoes by Magnanni.
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Dress by Paule Ka.
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Dress by Fuzzi.
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Jacket, camisole and pants by L’Agence.
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sporting life
SKI & STAY in style
Six new luxe hotels promise to expand your idea of what a ski resort can be—even if you’ve already been to the big-name spots. By Everett Potter
yo
For many of us, the formula for an unforgettable ski vacation is simple: challenging slopes, scenic splendor, a measure of charm and luxury in the base village and, not least, a lodging experience that sparkles with the latest in the art and science of luxury resort hospitality. If you’re in this group, there are half a dozen spots here just waiting to round out your ski education. Though some have been welcoming skiers for almost a century, all have recently opened brand-new luxury resort hotels. See which ones you need to add to your travel agenda. After all, doesn’t a day of super skiing deserve a night of unparalleled comfort?
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FLIMS, SWITZERLAND
Flims, like its sister resorts Laax and Falera, is not exactly high on most American lists of hip European ski resorts. That’s a shame, especially for snowboarders, because this area in the Glarus Alps in the heart of Switzerland offers some of the best terrain for shredding in the world. It has a serious terrain park, as well as a half pipe and 136 miles of varied terrain, enough to keep snowboarders of all stripes happy, with ample backcountry for those who need an extra challenge. The resort, which has long been pretty much the domain of Swiss and German skiers and riders, elevated its lodging offerings this past winter with the opening of The Hide Hotel Flims. The guest rooms and public spaces of this member of Design Hotels are a far cry from the Heidi chalets of yore, with striking geometric touches courtesy of designer Erik Nissen Johansen and an overall feeling that is more Zurich chic than Alpine. Swiss star chef Andi Tschanz oversees the two restaurants, The Deli and The Grill, while a 10,000-square-foot spa signifies that wellness is taken seriously here.
MEGÈVE, FRANCE
You may have skied trendy and massive Courchevel or Val d’Isère, but you can’t say you’ve really skied France until you’ve hit the slopes of Megève. Located in the nation’s southeastern section near the Italian and Swiss borders, Megève is an intimate resort that emerged as a fashionable ski destination way back in the 1920s. The Rothschild family in particular set the high-born rustic tone here several generations ago, opening the Domaine du Mont d’Arbois hotel to house their friends. The property will be reborn as a Four Seasons resort later this year. The attractions for a certain set of Parisians are the uncrowded slopes, the vistas of neighboring Mont Blanc, impeccable grooming and a medieval town center that has a bevy of rustic chic restaurants. If you’ve skied Europe and hated the mad scramble at lift lines and runs that are as jammed as the Champs-Elysées on a Friday afternoon, Megève is for you. It’s a mountain of relaxed runs and long lunches. That said, not everything is old-fashioned here. The newly opened Le Cerf Amoureux is a chalet-style hotel, cool and understated, with bleached wood and neutral fabrics. Designed by Lisa Konckier, who is responsible for Paris’ Hotel de Nell, the property has just 12 rooms. Mont Blanc views, a yoga studio, a spa and a screening room aid with post-ski relaxation.
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HOTEL LE MASSIF, COURMAYEUR, ITALY
While many Americans have skied chic Cortina in the Dolomites, far fewer have hit the slopes of Courmayeur. Located on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc tunnel, which connects to Chamonix in France, the lifts top out at 9,000 feet and offer 25 miles of pistes, which are some of the sunniest in Europe. If you’re an expert skier, head to Entrèves to ride a three-stage cable car, the Skyway Monte Bianco, to the top of Punta Helbronner. Not only are the views of Mont Blanc amazing from the 11,400-foot summit, but you’ll also have access to seriously challenging off-piste routes. Courmayeur is a lot smaller and quieter than neighboring Chamonix and has long been the lair of the Milanese social set. The main drag, Via Roma, is where you’ll find the bars, restaurants and shops. As with Cortina, many of the well-heeled Italian guests never seem to ski but are more interested in the stylish evening passeggiata. Check into the newly opened Hotel Le Massif in the heart of that town, a few minutes’ walk from the lifts. A “Leading Hotels of the World” offering, Le Massif was designed by Italian architects Fabrizio Gandolfo and Inart Studio. The décor of the 78 guest rooms and suites utilizes wood paneling and stone, and the hotel has a dedicated ski concierge, a spa that offers “forest bathing,” two bars and two restaurants. A great guest perk is access to the private, slope-side restaurant and club, La Loge du Massif.
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ALTA, UTAH, U.S.A.
Deer Valley and Park City have their charms, but Alta is the bomb. Just 40 minutes from downtown Salt Lake City, this resort in Little Cottonwood Canyon is treasured for its simplicity, loyal skiers and powder that can easily exceed 500 inches in a good year. The fact that it still bans snowboarders is a major attraction for many skiers. Linked to neighboring Snowbird, which does permit snowboarding, it provides some of the best and most challenging terrain in the U.S. “If you see it, you can ski it” is the rule of thumb. Skiers spend all day in the trees and then enjoy a low-key après-ski scene. Devotees stay at lodges such as the Alta Lodge and the Rustler Lodge, where the staff knows them by name and they can expect the same laid-back comforts year after year. What Alta has not been known for is luxury or change, but now both have arrived. The completely reborn Snowpine Lodge, built at the site of the original Snowpine Lodge from 1941, opened last January with 58 luxurious rooms and suites, many with balconies overlooking the surrounding canyon. The first true luxury resort at Alta, Snowpine Lodge offers ski-in/ski-out access via the new Snowpine ski lift.
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JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING, U.S.A.
There are skiers who have never skied Jackson Hole because they’ve heard it’s a big mountain that is really tough to navigate. The truth is that it is a really tough mountain to ski well. But every skier who’s at least an intermediate will have a memorable time at this monster in the heart of the Tetons. The daredevils can make the leap off Courbet’s Couloir or choose from several dozen chutes and double black-diamond bump runs to test their mettle. There’s also the matter of 3,000 acres of backcountry skiing available for the big dogs. The rest of us can enjoy some exceptionally long groomed runs that start at the 10,400foot summit and allow us to really get our speed on. All of this earns one time in downtown Jackson, where cowboys meet trust funders. Go shoot pool at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, eat at some of the finest restaurants in the Rockies, such as Rendezvous Bistro or Bin22, and go shopping for custom cowboy boots. The Caldera House, which opened this past winter, was built in a sweet spot at the base of the Jackson Hole Tram to the tune of $100 million. It offers just eight suites, some as large as 5,000 square feet. It also houses a revived Old Yellowstone Garage, a favorite Jackson Hole eatery. The design collective Commune is responsible for the look, a mélange of stone, glass and wood that is comforting and avant-garde at the same time.
SNOWMASS, COLORADO, U.S.A.
This one is 10 miles down valley from Aspen but it might as well be a world away. The family-friendly resort has never had the glitz and fame of its better-known sister. Yet it easily outpaces Aspen in terms of terrain and expansiveness. Snowmass is a beast of a mountain, with some 3,362 acres with varied terrain for every skier or snowboarder. Skiers who get bored in Aspen after two days can spend a week here and still find new runs on their last day. For a long time Snowmass lacked an inviting base village, a welcoming place where you’d want to spend the night instead of fleeing back up the road to Aspen. Now, after years of making do with a hodgepodge collection of condos and shops, Snowmass has that village, a $600 million development that’s heavy on luxury and skier-friendly amenities. One of the key components is the Limelight Hotel, with its LA vibe, an indoor/outdoor pool, a climbing wall and a cool design that would not be out of place in Aspen itself. More restaurants, shops and lodging are set to open this winter, as Snowmass finally gets its moment in the sun.
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COLD FRONT The season’s outerwear forecast calls for a mix of textures and weights. Prepare to keep warm, dry and looking fly, no matter what Mother Nature has planned. Photography by Dan Springston
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BOMBS AWAY Leather bomber by Corneliani, knit cardigan by Faherty Brand, button-front shirt by Eton and jeans by AG.
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WALK IN THE PARKA Parka by Corneliani, CPO shirt by Faherty Brand and trousers by Patrick Assaraf.
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SAILOR’S DELIGHT Peacoat by Samuelsohn, quarter-zip sweater by Peter Millar, tie and shirt by Eton and trousers by Maurizio Baldassari.
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PUFF’D UP Orange puffer by Herno, hooded sweater by Faherty Brand and jeans by AG.
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RAMBLIN’ MAN Navy travel coat by Corneliani, shirt by Peter Millar and trousers by Maurizio Baldassari.
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OVER THE TOP Topcoat and trousers by Corneliani and sweater by Patrick Assaraf.
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CLOSE TO THE VEST Vest, sweater and trousers by Eleventy.
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The right way, not RIGHT AWAY “Customizing” a garment in a hurry online doesn’t make it custom-made for you. Try true made-to-measure instead. By Darius Amos Seeing is believing, as they say—but not when you’re purchasing a made-to-measure suit. Any garment can look good on a computer screen, and it may be stunning hanging in your closet. But will it feel great when you try it on? In the world of custom suiting, your sense of touch will respond acutely to the differences between a garment handsewn by a tailor and a piece manufactured quickly by an internet company. Of course, some online businesses create excellent products using your measurements—which you record and supply yourself—and a dozen or so personalized elements. But a few clicks of a mouse can’t guarantee the use of impeccable fabrics, a perfect fit and a selection of details that runs the gamut. These are things, however, a Larrimor’s customer has come to expect. For decades, our team of made-to-measure experts has been customizing the finest garments precisely to your specifications and personal taste, from size and fit right down to jacket lapel style and thread color—all the sartorial details that matter. Looking and feeling your best is the name of the game, and great fabric will always drape better than an inferior product. Bonus: A well-made fabric is softer and stronger and will outlast a stiffer and cheaper cloth (which many online retailers use), making a suit custom-made by us the wiser investment. Our made-to-measure program uses fabrics from the world’s finest mills such as Loro Piana and Ermenegildo Zegna, which source the best raw materials like wool from Australia and New Zealand. The bottom line? You’ll get a suit created from the highest-quality fabric that’ll make you look
even more handsome. Another bonus: A tailor-made suit will come with an ample fabric reserve (in case you have to make anything bigger down the road), while a garment made online will cut costs and minimize the use of material when possible. We also ensure proper fit. Yes, an online suit maker creates jackets, pants and vests based on the exact measurements you provide, and your order may fit like a glove—that is, until you start moving. Our made-to-measure experts consider your daily activities so that your pieces continue to look good when you’re doing everyday things. Sitting at a conference table or reaching for a book on the top shelf? Our tailors guarantee you don’t have to worry about a collar gap or your jacket bunching at the neck. You can also distinguish one of our made-to-measure suits from an online customized garment when you feel the inside of the jacket. For the lining, we suggest high-end silk or cotton versus inexpensive options like polyester blends, which can overheat the wearer. The interlining (the material between the suit’s inner and outermost fabrics) should be sewn in place, rather than glued or fused. An easy way to determine the quality is to pinch the upper layer of the fabric: A superior garment will be soft and flexible; an inexpensive suit will feel stiff and thick. Our style pros and tailors will take nearly two dozen of your measurements and personalized options (handmade buttonholes or pocket flaps, anyone?) to create a piece that looks and feels just right. So log off your computer and give made-to-measure a try. We promise you’ll never look back.
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grooming
Face
TIME
Should one sex have a monopoly on great skin? Heck, no! Gents, consider these four treatments. Cosmetic procedures need not be stereotyped as a feminine thing—guys want to look rested and feel their best too. Here are four treatments dudes are using to fight aging and revitalize their skin, no stigma attached:
FACIALS
Maintaining a daily skincare routine is important, but sometimes your face just needs a refresher only a facial can provide. And guys are getting more and more on board with the idea—according to a recent study from the International Spa Association, 47 percent of spa-goers are male, compared with 31 percent 10 years ago. During a facial, an esthetician will assess your skin’s specific needs, exfoliate dead skin cells, extract clogged pores, then moisturize and massage your face, neck and shoulders. Please go to your appointment freshly shaven and stubble-free. Frequency should be at least once per season, or ideally every six weeks.
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FILLERS
These days, men of all ages are opting for injections to make their skin look more youthful or to prevent fine lines from developing. While a boost to the lips and cheeks may be more popular with the ladies, both sexes get dermal fillers injected into their foreheads, the area between the eyes, on lower lids or into their smile lines. And since males’ skin is thicker and muscle mass denser than females’, higher dosages are required to achieve the desired look. Just don’t let your doc go overboard, as overfilling tends to make a guy’s facial features look too puffy and feminine. Touch-ups are typically needed every six to nine months.
RADIOFREQUENCY SKIN TIGHTENING
While a regular facial will leave you looking supple and refreshed, a radiofrequency facial creates a tight and toned look—eventually. For this procedure a machine is heated to a comfortable 38–40 degrees Fahrenheit and placed onto skin to increase collagen production, which in turn tightens, firms and lifts sagging areas on the face, neck and yes, even the rest of the body. It’s pain-free, quick and requires zero recovery time. (You can even bang this out on your lunch break.) But be aware that one treatment will hardly make a difference—six to 12 sessions over a few months are recommended to achieve optimal results.
MICRONEEDLING
An alternative to lasers and injectables, this is the fastest-growing cosmetic procedure for men in 2019, according to the website RealSelf. A practitioner applies topical numbing cream and then uses a tool with thin needles that create tiny punctures in the skin’s surface to regenerate collagen and elastin, thus reducing cellulite and stretch marks, minimizing pores and erasing scarring. Skin will undeniably appear more radiant with just one treatment, but a few sessions are preferable. Just how many and how often depend on your skin type and sensitivity, so talk to your doc. And this should go without saying, but all of these treatments should be done by a professional esthetician or board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon.
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SHIRT COLLAR
The wing—a stand-up collar with downward points—is the most formal style, while the mandarin or band collar offers a more contemporary look. Prefer to wear a necktie instead of a bow tie? The wide spread collar is a great option.
tux
TIPS
SHIRT FRONT
Every man can look incredible in a tuxedo—as long as it’s the right one. By Darius Amos Most of us aren’t walking the red carpet or accepting an Academy Award. But dressing to the nines for a wedding or gala is something we’ve all done—and it’s likely you’ll attend another formal event where looking sharp is part of the agenda. Of course, you don’t get to wear a tuxedo every day (not even George Clooney does that), so when you invest in the ultimate piece of formal wear, its style and fit should be nothing shy of impeccable. Consider these things before you suit up for something special:
A shirt front with no placket and concealed buttons is clean and contemporary, while a pleated front worn with studs adds interest. For an elegant look, try a smooth bib-front shirt, perhaps in a pique fabric, with room for studs.
JACKET LAPEL
You know the choices: peak, shawl and notch. Wear a silk-faced peak lapel for highly formal occasions and the rounded shawl style when you want to soften your look. While versatile, a notch lapel is the least formal for a tuxedo.
JACKET SHOULDER
Don’t overlook this detail. The padding of your tux jacket should not extend beyond the tip of your shoulders (no shoulder divot). If it does, your jacket is too big.
JACKET CUT
While you can’t go wrong with a traditional-cut jacket, a modern fit, which is trimmer through the chest and shoulder, offers fashion-forward styling and a flattering silhouette—and it’s still appropriate for any black-tie event.
SLEEVE LENGTH
When paired with a properly fitted shirt, the jacket sleeve should show a half-inch of the shirt cuff—just enough for others to see your cufflinks.
JACKET LENGTH
We’ll work with you if you’re an NBA center, but for the regular guy, the piece should cover your backside. Another guide: With your arms at your side, the jacket should end between your thumb’s knuckle and base.
PANT LEG WIDTH
Find a cut that flatters your waist, thighs and calves. Pay attention to how the fabric drapes—anything too tight will create wrinkles, while too much material will be baggy.
PANT LEG LENGTH
Pants should have half or no break. See your tailor immediately if they are bunching at your ankles (or if your ankles are showing). The half break is the standard, showing a slight dent where the hem rests on the top of the shoe.
SHOES
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Patent loafers and oxfords, traditionally worn with a tux, are best suited for the most formal events. Both styles in suede or polished leather will give you a low-key look.
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