Worth The Wait

After many delays, Charlie’s of Lincroft gives foodies the feast they’ve craved.

Upon first glance, Charlie’s of Lincroft may appear to be an inn from a bygone era. Indeed it pays tribute to buildings of old, but make no mistake: everything about the restaurant is brand new.

First, a little history lesson: Charlie’s does occupy the former site of the Lincroft Inn, which after some 300 years was razed before construction on the eatery began around 2019. Setbacks, including the pandemic, delayed the project’s completion until last year, when the upscale, 260-seat dining establishment opened. Its design reminded me of old stagecoach stations, and builders even included old beams and other elements in the new architecture.

The exterior and two large dining rooms inside are marvels, which a good friend and I absorbed last month, our first time at Charlie’s since it debuted in 2022—but believe me, I wanted to try it sooner.

They say good things come to those who wait, and that sentiment was immediately confirmed when we tried a pair of appetizers. Selecting from an expansive list of hot and cold starters was a challenge— it’s tough to choose from items such as soups, market-price oysters, St. Louis-style ribs and a seafood tower—but our choices really hit the spot. Monmouth County restaurants excel at preparing seafood, and Charlie’s grilled octopus is an excellent example. The large arm is massaged so it remains oh-so-tender when cooked and is paired with a delightful miso butter and lemongrass ginger sauce. Just as good is the tuna tartare, a heaping portion of delectable raw fish, chopped, topped with chips and surrounded by a mouthwatering wasabi soy aioli and miso vinaigrette.

We were already satisfied after two top-notch apps, but the meal got even better. I quickly snapped a bunch of photos when my entree, a massive pork chop, arrived. If it looked great, it tasted even better. Cooked a perfect medium-rare, the meat was so juicy, tender and tasty that it didn’t need the accompanying mustard and braised cabbage for extra flavor (though they definitely added a kick). My conclusion: Charlie’s pork chop is one of the best in Monmouth.

The halibut, evidently, is in the same league—it’s a generously sized filet that’s perfectly crusted on the outside and buttery and flaky on the inside. My friend allowed me a couple of forkfuls of her fish dish, including the colorful bok choy leaves and playful beach mushrooms. If you’re looking for a lighter plate (compared with other offerings such as four different cuts of steak, pizzas and pastas) that’s packed with flavor, the lunch or dinner portion of halibut is a sure-fire order.

We saved room for dessert, as a meal at Charlie’s isn’t complete without a sweet treat. A shared order of sugary doughnuts—essentially warm, fluffy doughnut holes—came out with three types of sauces: raspberry, salted caramel and Nutella. My favorite was the tart raspberry, which I sprinkled on top and also injected into each of my doughy morsels. My companion’s go-to was the salted caramel sauce, a perfect lead-in to our second dessert, sticky toffee pudding. The warm cake was doused with a gooey maple toffee sauce and covered with pecans. It’s complete sugary bliss when you take a spoonful of the toffee treat and some vanilla ice cream. Let’s just say we put our weight-loss resolutions on hold for the day.

Charlie’s has a sister restaurant in Bay Head that also serves new American cuisine. The first location has been around for several years, so it’s likely that you may have dined there. But no two eateries are alike: With a different menu (and a knockout pork chop), Charlie’s of Lincroft is its own must for all Monmouth foodies.