MR Magazine: August 2015 by Wainscot Media

AUGUST 2015

swim THE DENIM DEBATE BIG & TALL

MENSWEAR GOES MOBILE

Project Booth #27154

34 THE DENIM DEBATE

Retailers reveal what’s needed to jumpstart denim sales.

WHAT HAPPENS IN VEGAS Tales from The Strip.

ONES TO WATCH New and noteworthy in American menswear.

12 MR SCENE

The who, the what and the where.

Photographic prints are a big swimwear trend. For spring 2016, Orlebar Brown has added their signature shots to tees.

BIG & TALL The big get bigger.

Contents

HOW ____WORKS

Catching up with Kevin Harter from Bloomingdale’s.

Also in this issue: 6 Editor’s Letter 8 Op-Ed: Michael Macko 16 M-commerce 18 Grooming 20 Accessories 22 Sportswear 26 European Fashion Week 38 Fashion On our cover: Dan Ward TRUNKS; Giles & Brother BRACELET; Miansai NECKLACE; Burberry SUNGLASSES. 2

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Dress Shirts and Neckwear

EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ______________________________________________________________________________________________Karen Alberg Grossman (212) 710-7422 KARENA@MR-MAG.COM MANAGING AND MARKET EDITOR _______________________________________________________________________________________________Elise Diamantini (212) 710-7429 ELISED@MR-MAG.COM FASHION DIRECTOR ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Buckley (212) 710-7424 WILLIAMB@MR-MAG.COM WEB EDITOR ________________________________________________________________________________________________________Christopher Blomquist (212) 710-7436 CHRISTOPHERB@MR-MAG.COM COPY EDITOR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________Jillian LaRochelle (212) 710-7442 JILLIANL@MR-MAG.COM EDITOR-AT-LARGE ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Michael Macko MICHAELM@MR-MAG.COM CONTRIBUTING WRITER ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Kissel (805) 693-5838

ADVERTISING PUBLISHER EMERITUS ________________________________________________________________________________________________Stuart Nifoussi (212) 710-7407 STUNIFOO@MR-MAG.COM PUBLISHER _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin (212) 710-7414 LIZETTEC@MR-MAG.COM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ______________________________________________________________________________________________Michelle Brown (212) 710-7413 MICHELLEB@MR-MAG.COM ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE _____________________________________________________________________________________________Chelsea Richardson (212) 710-7440 CHELSEAR@MR-MAG.COM DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS ___________________________________________________________________________________________Samuel Johnson (212) 710-7421 SAMUELJ@MR-MAG.COM ADVERTISING COORDINATOR _____________________________________________________________________________________________Donna Doyle (212) 710-7417 DONNAD@MR-MAG.COM

BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC. CHAIRMAN & COO ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Mac Brighton PRESIDENT & CEO _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Britton Jones CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Christine Sullivan VICE PRESIDENT, MENSWEAR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin

ART/PRODUCTION CREATIVE DIRECTOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Hans Gschliesser DESIGNER ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Jean-Nicole Venditti DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Peggy Eadie EDITORIAL/SALES OFFICE ________________________________________________________________________________1384 BROADWAY, 11TH FL., NEW YORK, NY 10018 (212) 686-4412 FAX: (212) 686-6821 BUSINESS OFFICE ___________________________________________________________________________________________________50 DAY STREET, NORWALK, CT 06854 (203) 853-6015 FAX: (203) 852-8175

ADVISORY BOARD Mario Bisio ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT/OWNER, MARIO’S Wayne Drummond ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Doug Ewert _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________CEO, MEN’S WEARHOUSE Dan Farrington______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________GMM, MITCHELLS RETAIL GROUP David Fisher ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP/GMM, BLOOMINGDALE’S Ken Giddon ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________OWNER, ROTHMANS Jonathan Greller _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT, OUTLETS, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Tom Ott_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________VP/GMM, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE David Witman ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________EVP/GMM, NORDSTROM

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MR ISSN 1049-6726 is published six times a year (January, February, April/May, July, August and November) by Business Journals, Inc. 50 Day Street, Norwalk, CT 06854. Periodical Postage paid at Norwalk, CT and at additional mailing office. Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 143678. Subscription for the U.S. $34 one year, $53 two years; Canada $63 one year, $95 two years (Canadian currency). Foreign $102, Air Mail. Single copies: U.S. $4.00; Foreign $4.00 plus postage. Claims for undelivered copies not honored after 30 days from publication (90 days for overseas). ©2015 Business Journals, Inc. Address correction requested. Postmaster send address changes to MR, P.O. Box 47370, Plymouth, MN 55447-0370. Printed in the USA.

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

{ EDITORIAL }

MENSWEAR’S

MOMENT David Letterman may have stepped back from the limelight (recently expressing frustration to miss out on all the great Trump material) but we at MR still love our Top Ten lists. So with a nod to “The Great One of Late Night,” here’s our list of Top Ten Reasons for Optimism in Menswear for spring ’16. 10. After a few seasons of New York Men’s Day, we finally have New York Fashion Week: Men’s, generating tons of press across the country and even internationally. What it will actually mean to menswear sales remains to be seen, but certainly it’s introducing more guys to more fashion. 9. Also acquainting more men with more fashion: the proliferation of men’s fashion blogs, the increasing number of men’s fashion sections in newspapers, and the non-stop men’s fashion images on social media. Men’s fashion is everywhere these days: it’s virtually impossible to ignore it. 8. With so many ways to shop online, even guys with severe shopping phobias are now learning to click and send from their home computers, and increasingly from their phones. 7. The Comfort Factor: Performance fabrics and stretch are now in everything, from activewear to tailored clothing. Men’s apparel has never been more comfortable or more easy-care, providing new reasons to buy. 6. As that athleisure buzzword continues to boom, activewear becomes increasingly important. Since this is how most men dress anyway, updated athleisure looks (albeit slow to catch on) should become big business. 5. Though denim has given up some market share to five-pocket styles in non-denim fabrics, there’s plenty of newness in the denim market, and retailers maintain that jeans are still a wardrobe staple. (See page 34) 4 . Grooming products and accessories are easy add-on sales, categories that smart retailers are starting to maximize. No sizing means fewer SKUs and more gift potential. (See features, pages 18 and 20, respectively) 3. Color is everywhere in spring ’16 collections and men are increasingly comfortable wearing it, even as bottoms. (See sportswear feature page 22) 2. The legalization of gay marriage could jumpstart formalwear sales, and the furnishings that go with it. 1. An election year is always good for the economy (and hopefully at least a few of the dozens of presidential candidates will be sharp dressers). So here’s the disconnect: With all the recent attention given to menswear, why so little newness in the stores? Why do we still hear guys complaining that there’s nothing for them to buy? Surely part of the problem is that we haven’t fully recovered from the ’08 recession so vendors are playing it safe (since they’re the ones covering retailer margins). Plus the current top sellers at retail—softcoats, slimmer fit suits, woven shirts in plaids and checks, five-pocket pants in non-denim fabrics— have been around for a while so fashion-savvy customers likely have enough in their closets. While we all know that runway fashion is generally too “out there” for mainstream America, there were plenty of great ideas on spring ’16 runways (page 26) that would surely translate well. So let’s take advantage of all the media attention and start translating. Men’s fashion is having a moment: we’d be crazy not to jump on it.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

PHOTO BY KEITH BARRACLOUGH PHOTOGRAPHY

With all the great stuff going on in menswear, why so little newness in the stores?

{ OPINION }

NIBBLING ON THE HAND THAT FEEDS YOU BY MICHAEL MACKO

“The silos used to be rigid, but not anymore.” 8

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ISTOCK

At the kick-off breakfast for New York Fashion Week: Men’s, I introduced one of my clients (who have an emerging menswear brand sold on their website and in their three stores) to a well-known menswear designer. Excited to meet each other, the emerging designers said they wanted to start wholesaling, and the well-known designer said that if he had to do it all over again, he’d keep his operation vertical. “It costs me $200 to make a sweater that I sell to Store A for $400 so they can sell it for $1,000,” the seasoned designer explained. Since the name of this magazine stands for Menswear Retailing, talking about brands that are strictly vertical or changing to that business model is a bit controversial, but I think it’s something the retail industry has to acknowledge. I’ve spoken to execs at other brands that have gone vertical: besides the cost savings and better margins, the most common reason given is all the work involved with wholesaling. Hiring and paying sales reps, dealing with stores on compliance issues, chargebacks and markdowns, these are all issues they don’t want to deal with. Does this portend the death of retailing? Of course not, just as e-commerce did not kill brick and mortar, nor did digital media kill print. Does it mean that retailers should acknowledge this trend is happening? I hope so. One of the things that constantly amazes me is the fluidity of the menswear industry today vs. 10 years ago. Magazines have stores, stores have magazines, everyone has a website. Editors are retailers, retailers have always been editors. The silos used to be rigid, but not anymore. Few brands today will launch without an e-commerce site so they all become de facto retailers, quickly learning the ropes. At the same time retailers have been evolving into designers and brands themselves. “Our own private label is our number one brand,” several major retailers have told me. If you’ve built your store name into one that customers respect, they’ll likely pay you for it, especially if that brand is value-priced. With healthier initial markups, these private label brands can survive some steep markdowns and still turn a profit for the store. Thanks to technology, the world has become a much smaller place. You’re not only competing with the store across the street and the one in the local mall, but now the one across the globe and ones that only exist virtually. The current state of retail reminds us that we have to stay open to new ideas, evolving the old way of doing business. I remember when I was at Saks Fifth Avenue and we were launching our e-commerce business: a very well respected merchant insisted that “men will never buy tailored clothing online.” Never say never.

{ ONES { CLOTHING TO WATCH} }

“I didn’t want something glued together on a factory line.”

Modern Tailor Daniel Lewis, Brooklyn Tailors

Like many entrepreneurs, Daniel Lewis created Brooklyn Tailors to fill a void in the marketplace when he was unsuccessfully searching for the perfect suit. He recalls, “To me it seemed like everything was either very traditional, high-fashion or trend-driven. I wanted something that felt modern, with a slimmer, sharper silhouette, but was still classic and timeless: Something that felt cool, but understated. And, I didn't want something that was mass-produced, glued together on a factory line. I wanted a handmade suit made from quality materials. I couldn't afford to spend thousands of dollars, so, we set out to try to design that suit ourselves.” He launched Brooklyn Tailors in 2007 out of his Clinton Hill apartment. Now, with the help of his wife Brenna, Lewis offers custom and ready-to-wear from his Brooklyn storefront, as well as through retail partners. “We launched our wholesale line in fall of 2010,” he says. “The first account to pick it up was Journal Standard in Japan and they’re still one of our best accounts. Our main retail partner in the U.S. is Barneys New York. They've been carrying the collection for the past three years and have worked closely with us to expand the line and create exclusive pieces especially for them.” Key items for spring 2016 include an Italian cotton oversized check dress shirt ($185 retail, made in Portugal); a handmade Italian hopsack wool suit in heather indigo (jacket $710, vest $234, trousers $285, all made in Nepal); and a sun-faded linen unstructured blazer ($465) and chino ($195, both made in Portugal) in graphite. —EMD

Coat Concept Michael Berkowitz, Norwegian Wool

Michael Berkowitz was a Wall Street guy with a problem. The tailored wool and cashmere coats he enjoyed wearing over his suits were never warm enough to sustain him through increasingly frigid New York City winters; the ubiquitous puffer jackets were certainly warm enough, and even trendy, but were far too casual, detracting from the polished image that Wall Street traders strive to attain. What to do? Berkowitz decided to quit his career in finance and create a collection of perfect luxury outerwear for professionals. Funding came from his personal savings and from a fellow investor who heads up the private equity division of a large bank (and who was equally frustrated trying to find the perfect coat). The result: the Norwegian Wool collection, a full range of sophisticated wool and cashmere blend coats lined with a specially engineered layer of 90 percent pure white duck down and 10 percent feathers. A unique inner membrane between the wool/cashmere outer layer and the down lining adds wind resistance and additional warmth. A true luxury collection made in Europe, all outer fabrics are Italian, and all coats are certified waterproof. Details include button flaps, twoway zipper technology, fleece-lined extra deep side pockets. For 2016, expect to see more style and fit options, as well as removable hoods. With suggested retails between $850 to $1,700, the line is targeted to upscale specialty stores and has already been placed by several great ones in New York, Chicago, Toronto and Minneapolis. Going forward, Berkowitz has partnered with The Fashion Institute in Oslo, Norway for more creative coat concepts that combine fashion and warmth. —KAG

“Luxury outerwear for professionals.” 10

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

{ ONES { CLOTHING } } TO WATCH

Artistic Accents Benji Gavron, House of Domonique

Ever since he was a kid, Benji Gavron has been obsessed with men’s fashion. “When I was six or seven, I’d go to school dressed as a pirate,” he says. “Then as a teenager growing up in the West End of London, I’d hang out on Savile Row every weekend, spending hours in different tailor shops, listening to their stories and learning British craftsmanship.” Knowing this was his calling (and being half American), Gavron decided to try his luck Stateside, studying fashion at FIT and looking for work in Manhattan. Based on sheer persistence, he landed an internship at Isaia (“They ignored all my early emails until I begged for a five-minute interview and promised never to contact them again after that”), which led to a real job there which resulted in a friendship with designer/entrepreneur Edward Armah. “Together, we wanted to bring something different to the marketplace, a design sensibility that combines our heritages: bright African colors/patterns and British sartorial tradition.” Now in its third season, House of Domonique offers accessories and furnishings that are truly special. The umbrellas are virtual works of art, retailing in the $275 to $325 range and performing well at Harry Rosen and Stanley Korshak. More affordable are ties ($105 to $120 suggested retails), hats ($110) and pocket squares ($60 to $75), made in Italy of the highest quality Italian fabrics. There’s more excitement to come as accessories make the man. —KAG

Accessories make the man.

Elevate Life Marco Baldassari, Eleventy

“The look is sporty chic: beautiful clothes with handcrafted details.”

Eleventy. EleVENTi. It’s Italian. It’s artisanal. It’s modern. It’s everything fine clothing should be, except expensive. “Our motto is ‘Enjoy life with Eleventy,’” says U.S. sales director Geoff Schneiderman. “The look is sporty chic which means beautiful clothes with handcrafted details that can be worn in infinite combinations to reflect the personality of the wearer.” Best booked items for fall/winter included a DB coat in down-filled flannel, a laser-cut jacket with raw edge seams, fabulous sweater knits, and suits that fit without constraint ($995 retail; handmade suits range from $1,495 to $1,795). Sportcoats ($595 retail) are cut a touch shorter (73 cm) for a young look, but specs have been tweaked for American bodies so nothing is too tight. And the women’s collection is simply off the charts! Co-founded in 2008 by Marco Baldassari (pictured left, he designs the men’s) and launched in the States this past year, the collection has already been booked in select doors at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s and many great specialty stores. For spring ’16, styling is inspired by the London Teddy Boys of the 1950s. Key items are tailored blazers in classic menswear patterns, raw-seam leather jackets, straight-leg pants, vests and waistcoats in a wide range of fabrics (camouflage, perforated leather, denim) to be worn over T-shirts and under cardigan-style jackets. There are also fabulous athleisure styles, cool biker looks and elegant tailored clothing in performance fabrics. All told, it is an extensive collection that competes well with much more expensive luxury labels. —KAG

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2015 MR

{ MR SCENE }

TIMELESS

SINATRA: AN AMERICAN ICON

“Saloon Songs”—those soulful tunes of unrequited love, sadness and heartbreak, emotions we all know only too well. Or as contemporary crooner Michael Feinstein puts it, songs meant to be experienced “with a cigarette in one hand and a drink in the other.” In celebration of the centennial of Sinatra’s birth, it seems the entire country is focusing on everyone’s favorite cultural icon. For those of us in the menswear industry, how fabulous that Sinatra’s personal style remains inspirational: the Fedora worn at an angle, loosely knotted tie, nonchalant pocket square, elegant cufflinks, and of course dapper suits (don’t be surprised if a Sinatra clothing license soon appears...). Among the many exhibits, concerts and lectures around the country commemorating this centennial, we suggest you get yourself to The New York Public Library for the Performing Arts at Lincoln Center. Their exhibition, curated by the Grammy Museum in Los Angeles, features photos, family mementos, rare correspondence, personal items, art and music, much of which has never before been displayed in public. Sinatra: An American Icon runs through September 4th in conjunction with a series of movies and concerts. As Frankie would tell you, “You only live once, and the way I live, once is enough.” 212-642-0142 or nypl.org/sinatra. —KAG

UNWIND

LIFE’S LUXURIES LOCATED only 80 miles from Cancun, Tulum is less party and more tranquility. This Mexican destination has become synonymous with peaceful waters, beautiful beaches and total relaxation. Sanará Tulum is one of the latest luxury boutique hotels to open on the exquisite Riviera Maya. Created by Daniella Hunter and Charlie Stuart Gay as a place to “breathe, heal, and be free,” the 14-room hotel spans over 50 meters of beach. Sanará also has a wellness center, offering services like Mayan healing treatments and body work, and The Real Coconut Café serving up fresh, locally sourced cuisine. As Gay explains, “When we walked onto the Sanará land and the

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

Tulum beach we felt we had entered into a living canvas of authentic expression. Our hope is that we have been able to steward this energy and experience for everyone that arrives to be in Sanará.” Make sure to check out this special space the next time you’re in need of a getaway from life’s daily stresses. sanaratulum.com —EMD

GETTY

HE COINED THE PHRASE

{ MR SCENE } VEGAS EATS

MEALIN’ & DEALIN’

B&B FIRE ROASTED SARDINE

We’ve all been to Las Vegas a few more times than we’d like to admit and have become quite familiar with the scene in Sin City. Here’s where you can find MR’s editors during Las Vegas market week when we’re not walking the trade shows or covering market parties. ELISE: When I have any free time in Las Vegas, you can find me as far from The Strip as possible. My favorite spot is Lotus of Siam, a Northern Thai restaurant with lots of veggie options and an incredible wine list. Try the Nam Prik Hed, a spicy mushroom dip popular among vegetarians in Northern Thailand. 953 East Sahara Ave. Suite A5, The Commercial Center District WILLIAM: I could definitely call out Lotus of Siam, that hidden gem away from the glitz and glamour of celebrity chefs and Michelin stars. But I like glitz and glamour, and celebrity chefs. And Michelin stars, so: if you’re staying in the Palazzo or the Venetian, or even if you’re not, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich’s B&B Ristorante is some of the best

Italian food outside (or *gasp* even inside) Italy. If your expense account (or your host’s) knows no bounds, Joël Robuchon’s eponymous spot, with its two great big stars is the best food in Vegas. But if I’m honest, where you’ll most regularly find me eating in Vegas is more modest (and Mexican): Cañonita in the Palazzo or Border Grill in Mandalay Bay. Pork Barbacoa or Yucatan pork respectively. And guacamole. And margaritas. KAREN: If you can get in, try Firefly, a lively tapas restaurant and bar on Paradise. They don’t take reservations and it’s usually packed, but the food is unique and delicious. Tapas dishes include bacon wrapped stuffed dates, Ahi tuna skewers with mango, basil and pickles, and lamb chops with lentils and veggies. They also have burgers, salads and larger plates. 3824 Paradise Rd.

IN DEEP

THE WET SET HISTORICALLY, men’s swimwear hasn’t had a lot of attention; until a few years ago, it would be surprising if someone could name more than a handful of dedicated men’s swimwear brands. Perhaps because in major metropolises, men don’t swim so much. But as the world shrinks and more people are able to get away to far flung beaches and seaside resorts, men’s swim is seemingly on the up. With online platforms to customize almost anything from sneakers to suiting, founders of custom swimwear site Tarifa and Company saw a new opportunity to make a splash. With over 15,000 combinations, customers can choose everything from size and fabrics to cords and cut. “The fabrics are sourced in Barcelona, cut in Andalucia (close to Tarifa, the town that inspired us), and then assembled and finalized in our small workshop in northern Spain,” explains co-founder Iñigo Amoribieta. “We discovered that most of the premium swimwear brands use a quick drying fabric, polyamide, specific to men's swim trunks, which is mostly sourced in Spain. Turns out there is a lot of tradition in Spain around swimsuits for men and its fabrics, but no strong Spanish brands.” Tarifa and Company buys each fabric in small amounts, so each swimsuit is an exclusive edition of no more than 25 to 30 pieces, and once the customer has designed a pair, they will ship anywhere in the world in two to three weeks. “We've sold and continue to receive orders from all around the world, and this reach and freedom is what we set out to do when building our company.” So far, it seems like the brand is doing swimmingly, and will continue to ride this swimwear wave. For the full interview, go to mr-mag.com. —WB

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2015 MR

See us at PROJECT LAS VEGAS. Booth #5022 Celebrating 15 years of living life colorfully!

www.robertgraham.us

{ DIGITAL }

MENSWEAR GOES MOBILE

Retailers need to stay current and adaptable as m-commerce business grows. BY ELISE DIAMANTINI

Brands on Spring are responsible for shipping goods to the consumer and all shipping is free. And while Spring is a “mobilefirst company,” they do have plans to introduce a desktop version soon, giving sites like Farfetch some competition. Farfetch is similar in the sense that it is a global marketplace, but instead of working with vendors, Farfetch is a curator of independent brick-and-mortar boutiques like Mario’s, H. Lorenzo and Excelsior. Capitalizing on the idea of strength in numbers, Farfetch gives smaller boutiques the opportunity to compete on the same playing field as some of the major online retailers. Farfetch’s menswear editor Tony Cook explains, “The diversity of boutiques and their buyers creates a far broader product offer than e-commerce businesses with traditional buying models. With each buyer having his own unique viewpoint, Farfetch partner boutiques occupy a total of 1,000,000 square feet of retail space across 30 countries, allowing customers to shop an unparalleled range of brands and unique pieces from around the world.” Menswear on Farfetch is growing at a rate of 11 percent per year, and the company is focused on developing editorial content that speaks to that male demographic. Farfetch is working with celebrities such as DJ Cassidy, singer Usher, perfumer Ben Gorham, artist Kehinde Wiley and NBA player Carmelo Anthony to inspire their menswear focus and grow their customer base. For spring 2016, Cook says they’re seeing items that mix technical with traditional elements. “The clash of a great tailored trouser and a contemporary bomber jacket was represented in a number of shows such as E. Tautz, Calvin Klein and Jil Sander. This is something our male customer really responds to.” SPRING

“Mobile is now the primary access point to online retail for most consumers,” said Andrew Lipsman, vice president of marketing and insights at comScore in a report published on Internet Retailer. “As a result, retailers really need to rethink how they deliver their online shopping experience.” They sure do. As consumers spend more time on their personal devices, the mobile shopping experience has become critical for retailers’ success. Another study on Internet Retailer conducted by Branding Brand, an mcommerce technology provider, reported that 51 percent of retail traffic came from smartphones and tablets in 2015. Pinterest recently announced the launch of buyable pins, a service that is currently available only on iPhone and iPad devices in the U.S. The news was explained in a statement from the company: “Pinners in the U.S. will have access to 30 million products available for purchase from brands like Macy’s, Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom. When the Pinner is ready to check out, they simply click the Buy It button and pay with either Apple Pay or a credit card.” Not surprisingly, m-commerce companies are starting to pop up, trying to capitalize on consumers’ new mobile behavior. Spring is the latest one. Founded in 2014, Spring is a “mobile marketplace that enables people to shop a curated community of over 800 brands from within a single app,” explains CEO and co-founder Alan Tisch. “We founded Spring because we felt mobile shopping was way too hard, and it required downloading lots of apps to shop lots of brands. So we built what we felt was a super-easy purchase experience and created a platform that puts luxury labels, emerging designers, fast-fashion brands, beauty brands and lifestyle brands all together in a single feed. Brands post new arrivals daily and people can purchase with a swipe.”

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

{ GROOMING }

ALL ABOUT THAT FACE

With the ongoing increase in men’s attention to grooming, and the enduring male one-stop-shop mentality, apothecary additions can only boost business.

Some better men’s boutiques are already hip to the grooming game, with dedicated areas offering everything from shaving and sunscreen products to lip balms and beard oil. Seattle men’s store Blackbird eschewed apparel entirely in favor of grooming products and department stores invariably locate their beauty business immediately behind their revolving doors. While there are certainly still some men who think of primping as a primarily feminine pursuit, the return of barber-shop culture, and burgeoning online subscription services like Birchbox prove they can be taught. And there’s still room for growth. “It’s just as important for men to take care of their skin as it is for women,” explains Erica Russo, Bloomingdale’s fashion director of accessories, fine jewelry and cosmetics. “It’s an area that has not been fully developed yet, so we see lots of opportunity in the future. Some of our top producing items are eye creams/eye serums which points to a focus on anti-aging. It’s not only important to offer grooming/skincare products to the male customer but also to educate him about the benefits of using them. Men need to understand the different needs for their skin.” With the increased awareness surrounding sunscreen, the summer months are an ideal opportunity to not only include SPF options in an assortment, but to educate customers too. “We are always adding new products to the shop and during the summer; sun protection is one of our most popular categories,” says VP of Birchbox Man, Brad Lande. “We recently launched the Birchbox Man Summer Shop, which features a lineup of grooming favorites that were specially chosen for sun, surf and balmy weather.” Stag, which has expanded from a single store in Austin to stores in Dallas, Houston and California, does about seven percent of their business in grooming (with spikes around the holidays and Father’s Day). “We sell more sunscreen in summer, for sure. We don’t get too many requests for product with SPF specifically, but many of our products do have SPF built in. There’s so much more information available to men and product lines developed especially for men, that there’s no longer a mystery or stigma about the average guy taking better care of himself,” explains co-founder Steve Shuck. Adds menswear designer and store owner Steven Alan,“It really sheds another dimension on who we are and what we like. The more we can envelope our space with things that inspire us, the better the experience for the customer.” Shuck agrees, “We try to consider other aspects of our customer’s life aside from just his apparel needs and the grooming category is an important one. We even carry toothbrushes and soap dishes to complement the assortment.” “Harry Gordon Selfridge was the first to put his beauty department on the ground floor,” adds Blackbird founder Nicole Miller. “Because he understood basic economics: people will always buy soap.” FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Suntegrity, MDSolarSciences, Malin + Goetz, Trilipiderm.

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

PHOTO BY BRAD BRIDGERS

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

MADE IN THE USA

The Return of American Manufacturing

From high-end fabric mills to tailored clothing brands, handcrafted accessories to contemporary apparelâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; the resurgence of MADE IN AMERICA menswear continues to grow. Join us in our November 2015 issue as we explore this burgeoning market. EVERYONE you want to sell will be reading it.

Contact Michelle Brown for more information. 212-710-7413 Ads close September 25th

{ ACCESSORIES }

NO SHORT STACKS As menswear continues its break from the boardroom, men are still dressing up, just in different ways.

For many Millennials, a woven silk tie harks back to such old-fashioned standards as suits in the workplace. Clearly, the ongoing evolution of what it means to be appropriately attired for business has affected neckwear sales. Consequently, tie bars and tie pins, and other items you might associate with “ye offices of olde,” such as cufflinks, are slowing down too. “Guys aren’t dressing up as much for work, so there’s that shift in focus,” says Carina Fanelli, men’s accessories buyer at Saks Fifth Avenue. “We’re seeing a softening in cufflinks, but a huge trend in bracelets; guys are getting more comfortable wearing jewelry, and experimenting with ways to wear jewelry differently, whether it’s stacking multiple bracelets in mixed materials like different stones, metals and leathers, or layering a bracelet with a watch, or adding a lapel pin: accessories are evolving.” “Dress furnishings have always been the driver in the men’s market, but now it’s more casual,” agrees Mario Bisio of Mario’s. “Tie business is softer as a result, but other accessories are balancing that out: a guy might not be wearing a suit and a tie, but he’s wearing a polo with a soft constructed blazer and a pocket square, perhaps a lapel pin. Where he would have added flair to his outfit with a tie, he’s adding the flair in different ways. It’s exciting.” “Accessories are interesting because they’re now regarded as an essential part of an outfit,” explains president of A.K. Rikks, Jim Murray. “A bracelet that matches the look; a pocket square instead of a tie; a seasonal bag: men are understanding that accessories complete a look, and that has made a difference in the category. It also causes us to be more strategic in our buy. We have to offer complete outfits with accessories, and not just any accessory will do.” But when offering a wide assortment of apparel, stocking accessories that work with every outfit is not an easy task. For Matt Fox, co-owner of accessories store Fine and Dandy in New York City, that was a lesson learned. “We seem to be the go-to accessories spot for our customers, and at times we struggle with customers looking for very specific items that we don't have, say an orange paisley bow tie,” he explains. “The lesson for us has repeatedly been variety: smaller quantities of a larger variety of styles. We keep a running list of items our customers have a hard time finding, and if we don’t currently have an item, we’re either making it for next season or it’s in research and development.” FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Tateossian bracelets; Miansai bracelets; Fleur’d lapel pins.

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

PHOTO BY BRAD BRIDGERS

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

WEATHER PERMITTING

EVEN IF THE CONDITIONS FLIP FLOP

Spring 2016 Flip Flop Collection

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{ SPORTSWEAR }

FRESHEN UP

Stores are battling sportswear boredom with careful buys and exciting new brands. BY CHRISTOPHER BLOMQUIST

When life hands you sameness, up your curation game. That’s the rule that many sportswear stockists are forced to follow these days. And although it’s challenging, they’re keeping things fresh by offering unique items and adding new brands to their mix. “It’s a lot of work to turn inventory. Because of the redundancy out there it makes our job very hard,” says Jason Somerfeld, owner of the Manhattan menswear boutique Letter J, whose sportswear best-sellers currently include colored pants and anything in lightweight fabrics or with a soft hand. “Manufacturers don’t want to take risk because they have minimums and then if it doesn’t work it ends up in Century 21. They don’t want to go out on a limb on special product when in essence that’s exactly what customers will buy at full price. When everything looks the same they wait for a sale. And most of our store is still full price. It’s important that the redundancy gets readjusted.” He adds, “The state of sportswear now is very redundant and it tends to be kind of dark with not a lot of color.” A firm believer in constantly adapting his store’s brand mix, Somerfeld has added Timo Weiland, NSF and S.N.S. Herning sweaters, among others, for fall 2015. But landing new, not to mention reliable, brands can be difficult. “You have to travel to Europe and to Paris to find unique and different brands that aren’t offered in the States,” says Bryan Reynolds, men’s DMM at Scoop NYC. “It’s challenging finding lines at the U.S. trade shows or rather actually receiving what you bought outside of the established big boys that show there,” notes Murry Penner of the Houston store M Penner. “One exception for me has been Benson. Though new to me, they are sold out of a showroom I trust to deliver.” However Paul Witt, owner of the two Wittmore boutiques in Los Angeles, whose best-sellers are Reigning Champ, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Max N Chester, Relwen, Alex Mill and Mollusk, sees things very differently. “There are more options than ever within men’s sportswear,” he says. “In the past few years it feels like new brand offerings have doubled. There are so many great new brands coming out of the U.S. There might be too many great brands out there, making it difficult to choose. Maybe that’s why we’re starting to see constrictions in the marketplace.” He also has no qualms about working with sportswear up-andcomers: “I’m a big believer of supporting new brands. We haven’t had many issues, but I’d say sometimes they don’t last more than a season or two and that’s tough for planning. We have had great luck in starting partnerships with new brands and moving forward, we want to invest more in this area.” LEFT: Dockers Alpha Original Khaki True Blue

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

Special Advertorial Section

{ ITALIAN { CLOTHING }} STYLE

ITALY@ MR Magazine takes a look at the brands of Made In Italy at the MRket LV show scheduled for Monday, August 17 to Wednesday, August 19, 2015 at the The Sands Expo/Palazzo in Las Vegas.

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that defy the ordinary

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cotton shirts and fabulous swimwear for the classic men.

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From the exclusive nautical world, every style is accurately developed with a lot of details. Nevertheless the collection is smooth, sporty but not aggressive.

Basic and fancy S/S polos with fine details. Basic and fancy knits and sweaters, shirts inspired by the latest tendencies of the Italian fashion.

Special Advertorial Section

{ ITALIAN { CLOTHING }} STYLE GRAN SASSO BOOTH 318

“Quality is always Fashionable” is the inspiring motto of the new generation that combines tradition and innovation, ancient craftsmanship and modern produc-

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Sartorial handmade ties 100% Made in

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made and with 100% italian products.

7 fold to 11 fold. From unlined to doubleface. Made to measure service available.

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Exceptional Collection of ties, bow ties, suspenders, scarves

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Updated and elegant styles for the men who

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A sportwear collection of shirts, knitwear, accessories made of the highest quality fab-

want to be on track with

ALPETORA/G. MANZONI

the latest fashion mood.

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Suitings all Made in Italy.

rics, with particular attention to the details, design and style reflecting the best of the Italian heritage.

LUCIANO MORESCO BOOTH 204

All new sport coats and pants - All innovative and intriguing – All attentively priced - All made in southern Italy.

INGRAM BOOTH 308

Ingram Collection shirts from 1949.

{ SHOWS }

MENSWEAR’S GRAND TOUR

With both London Collections: Men and Pitti Uomo reporting steady increases across the board, and Milan and Paris as influential as ever, the European market has never been so essential. BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY Following the latest edition of London Collections: Men, chairman and editor-in-chief of British GQ Dylan Jones said, “Since we created London Collections: Men in June 2012 the attendance from American press and buyers has risen by 81 percent. From Europe excluding the U.K., it’s increased by 91 percent and from China it has grown by a whopping 185 percent.” It is a fairly clear-cut success then, and retailers tend to agree. “London is so nascent: it’s only been around since 2012, but it's become quite vital,” says Bergdorf Goodman fashion director Bruce Pask. “With such great strides in such a short amount of time, I hope New York Fashion Week: Men’s can follow the success of that model.” Paul Birardi, co-founder of Odin, agrees, “We tend to find experimental and playful designs for men in London. There are also well established British designers who consistently show beautiful collections. It seems to be a growing market with more offerings season to season.” From the newest addition to the fashion calendar to a slightly more established one: Pitti Uomo, who before LC:M set up shop, were

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

the first port of call on the men’s fashion calendar, and are still enjoying growth. Explains CEO Rafaello Napoleone, “The absolute leadership of Italy in the production of textiles, clothing and accessories for men, not to mention the unique location of Pitti Uomo, represent the link between the quality and the quantity of international buyers that is not reflected in any other fashion event. Our ability to offer an updated version of classic men’s elegance, a stylistic and sociological center of gravity, based on the quality of workmanship and fabrics and a representation of the male values that are slowly changing is what concentrates the attention of the press and buyers.” Pitti is something of an anomaly. While technically a trade show, the fair has transcended what would be typically conceived as such. “Pitti is most important for me because you see so much: on the streets, in the booths and at the events,” says Mario Bisio of Mario’s.” I never miss Pitti in January. It is too vital.” VP and fashion director of Saks Eric Jennings agrees, “Pitti has always been an integral part of our seasonal trip to Europe for the men’s shows. As Pitti comes early in the

buying season it gives us a good read on the major commercial trends of the season: the important colors, patterns, fabrications, silhouettes: it’s the best place to see the evolution and innovation in tailored clothing.” With fashion shows including Moschino and Ports 1961, Pitti really does offer a full 360° of the menswear market experience, and with Milan a short train ride away, what could be considered part two of the Italian market really compounds Italy as an essential destination. “Milan takes its fashion very seriously,” says co-founder of Carson Street Clothiers, Brian Trunzo. “What Las Vegas is to entertainment, Milan is to fashion. Simply put, it's over-the-top and where all the glamour takes place. Italian houses differ from Parisian houses in that they are unabashedly inyour-face about their point of view. It’s a critical place for us to transact with designer brands like Marni, Missoni and Neil Barrett.” While many stores write orders in Milan, the fourth and final stop on the European circuit is for some the most important. “When you want to be really considered on an international level, you have to be with the best competition,” explains executive president of the French Couture Federation, Stephane Wargnier. “If you play tennis you want to be at Roland Garros or at Wimbledon, you want to be in the most important competition because if you win, then you’re the best in the world. Paris is the place where the biggest competition in fashion is showing.” While representatives from each of the four stops will heartily lay

claim to be the most important center of fashion in the world, you could certainly find retailers to support each one. “Paris has become the most important city for Carson Street,” says Trunzo. “It is the epitome of elegance and sophistication in the men's market. The brands that show in Paris, as a whole, are most aligned to the direction we’ve been moving in over the last few seasons.” Odin’s Birardi agrees, “Paris is the central location for fashion. The clear diversity of designers and contemporary brands makes Paris the most important market. If there is one city to go for market in Europe it would be Paris.” While there is so much variety across each individual of the four markets, and all are essentially influential in their own way, there is rarely one overarching movement in the European market. The continuing casualization of menswear, whether it be through the deconstruction of traditional tailoring or the ubiquitous influence of streetwear, was evident throughout. Hyper-decorative elements were also striking, from embroidery and beading to the lace in Burberry or ruffles in Moschino. Perhaps then, the overarching movement could be expression: the global attention on menswear fueling experimentation and creativity. While I was in London, I was unlucky enough to miss the Dunhill show, because an anti-austerity protest drove traffic to a standstill. Perhaps that antiausterity movement, in London and across Europe, has suffused the European collections. TOP TO BOTTOM: Moschino SS16 runway show; Pitti Uomo street style. Photography by William Buckley.

A Fashionable Fracas On June 12th of this year, the Business of Fashion published an article: “What is the Purpose of LC:M?” In it, the author largely discredits the entire event as “illogical,” suggesting the “hype and hysteria” of LC:M and other similar menswear “jamborees” are “no more exciting than warmed up fish and chips.” The article positions fashion weeks as largely pointless, offering nothing for “young men whose style is driven more by music and subcultures like skateboarding.” The young men in question are some 500 shoppers in line for a new T-shirt release at cult skate shop Supreme, whose collective style is admired by the author as having “verve, confidence, and wit.” The author is

right about one thing: Supreme have certainly cornered their niche. The author continues, “When I go into my local newsagent, I see at least a dozen men's magazines with such minute circulations— ’niche’ they are called, though many might also call them vanity publishing—that I wonder what on earth their purpose might be.” Apparently some niches are more worthy than others. Words like “unconstructive” or “malapropos” spring to mind, and accordingly, the article was dismissed in short shrift by Caroline Rush, CEO of the British Fashion Council, who posted in the comment section that she considered the article, “An insult to the brilliant menswear designers and

businesses we have in London.” She continued, “In just seven seasons, LC:M has become a globally relevant platform for menswear businesses to promote themselves and grow… The season on season growth is indicative of the global appeal and relevance… International media and retailers come from 39 countries to experience our city, take part in LC:M and see the businesses here… The British menswear sector is going from strength to strength and the designers and audiences that take part make the event as stimulating as it is rewarding…there is an opportunity for everything from suiting to sportswear to prosper.” Oh, snap.

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2015 MR

{ BIG & TALL }

THE BIG

GET BIGGER

For retailers and manufacturers, big & tall business is a numbers game. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

It’s a battle for market share in big & tall menswear, and for independent specialty stores, it’s tougher than ever to fight DXL, JCP, Dillard’s, Men’s Wearhouse and Westport B&T. Still, those remaining independents who specialize in large sizes have established a niche, and most are having a surprisingly good year. “Actually B&T business is performing better than regular men’s business,” says Fred Derring, who heads up the BATA group, an association of 60 stores (105 doors: 68 in the U.S., 37 international) that meet twice a year for information exchange, group buys, special pricing, etc. The biggest challenge, Derring confides, is getting more vendors to make more product, especially in the better market, and then getting the product to fit. “The most successful stores in the group are those that have traded up,” he explains. “But manufacturers need minimums on cuttings, and when you consider all the size variations in both bigs and talls, there are 12 different sizes to deal with; most vendors remain reluctant to invest.” Derring confides that when a major chain starts working with an upscale brand, his stores can sometimes latch onto that cutting. He

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

ABOVE: Tailored clothing at Men’s Wearhouse is a balanced mix of national and store brands, with the advantage of expert tailors in all the stores.

also recommends that to differentiate, stores should try some of the European brands that are new to the States: Allsize, Fellows United and Duke are three that he suggests. But with a shortage of reliable suppliers willing to make B&T sizes, how is it that business is fairly healthy? 1) Those vendors who are core in the business have solved most sizing issues; 2) Many have in-stock programs so that they carry the inventory and stores can just fill-in as needed; and 3) Despite (or perhaps because of ) our society’s obsession with diets, exercise, fitness, etc., American men keep getting bigger. According to West Coast buying consultant Marshall Kline, 28 percent of American men are size XL or larger; in certain states (Mississippi, Minnesota, Wisconsin) the percentage approaches 33 percent. At Weitzenkorn’s in Pottstown, Pa., Greg Weitzenkorn attributes his success in B&T to carrying inventory. “B&T is 27 percent of our business, housed in 1,500 sq. ft. in a separate location next door. Our key vendors are great brands like Cutter & Buck, Enro, Tommy Bahama, Peter Millar,

{ BIG & TALL }

Since slim fit is not relevant for big guys, what’s our handle to get them in every season?” —Scott Winterbottom, The Foursome Peerless, Jack Victor, Harmony, Calaway, Under Armour and Russell. Nordstrom (King of Prussia) actually sends occasional customers our way because we’re always in stock on sizes. I think that’s key to the business, even though it means slower turn. (Slower turn is why most department stores don’t bother with B&T…)” Weitzenkorn also maintains that adding back a Father’s Day promotion (a $50 gift card with a $100 purchase) helped business considerably this year. They also do really well on their website, which is in its third incarnation. Scott Winterbottom at The Foursome in Plymouth, Minn. acknowledges that while his B&T business is healthy (at 25 to 30 percent to total), they don’t offer the extensive size range of a DXL. “We do 2x, 3x and a little 4x, which is a more limited size run, and a similar abbreviated size run for talls. But business has been good, especially with brands. Polo is still #1 for us, followed by Tommy Bahama, Cutter & Buck, Tory Richards, Overton, Viyella and Luchiano Visconti. I’m always trying to push my regular-size resources to do more large sizes but I understand their objections: it’s

eight SKUs instead of three or four, and it’s a lot more work to get the fit just right. So bottom line, it’s a numbers game and realistically, we can’t order 600 units of a pattern.” And that’s essentially the dilemma for all B&T merchants: fashion offerings are always more limited in B&T than in regular sizes. Sums up Winterbottom, “For large-size customers, there’s not much new out there; it’s always the same stuff. And since slim fit is not relevant for big guys, what’s our handle to get them in every season?” Mike Hensley from Hensley’s Big&Tall Outfitters in Des Moines, Iowa adamantly agrees. “We independent stores are competing against some very powerful big box stores: since we can’t compete on price, the only way to win is to group together, go more upscale and offer exciting and exclusive product.” This option, Hensley insists, is not an impossible dream. “We need to be more pro-active in buying as a group and partnering with our vendors to offer something different under our own brand label. There are plenty of great manufacturers who will work with

Gaining Share

By increasing the number of smaller doors, DXL is entering secondary markets.

According to CEO David Levin, it’s been a good year for DXL. “We’re meeting all our financial expectations. Last year we had double-digit comp sales gains in stores open over a year. We’ll open 40 new DXL stores this year to hit 170 by year’s end and we’re projecting continued growth over the next several years. “What’s the secret? We offer a fantastic selection of more than 50 national brands from value to luxury price points. The customers love what we’ve delivered: a true onestop shopping experience with good, better, best fashion options

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

and exceptional customer service. (We’ve created terrific training programs for our sellers.) Out of the 150 DXL stores we’ve opened, only one didn’t perform to our expectations. “Another positive move we’ve made is increasing the number of smaller doors: by creating a 5,000 sq. ft. footprint that still retains the DNA of our larger (8,000 sq. ft.) stores, we’ve been able to enter more secondary markets. And the best part now is that the name recognition is out there. When we first converted Casual Male to DXL stores, we put a lot of money into national ads. So now, as we open new stores, people have seen the commercials; they recognize the name and they’re excited to shop here. (And the way these smaller stores are designed, they hold a lot of inventory!) So I believe the risk is behind us: we’re still putting in capital but it’s now more about execution than risk-taking. “Our online business is about 18

percent to total. It’s given us much more exposure and is providing our greatest increases. And the amazing part is that our return rate online is only about eight percent vs. an industry average four times that! “I think a big reason for that is our consistency of sizing. Many of the brands we’ve introduced were not

“It’s now about execution more than risk-taking.” doing B&T before so they lacked the technical knowledge on sizing specifications. So we worked with them on it and gave them our specs, which means when a guy buys a 3X in our store, it’s the same size across brands so he knows what he’s getting. (We do some slimmer fits in young men’s.) This consistency is a really big advantage, especially online. I’m a regular-size guy but when I shop for jeans, I could be a 32, a 34, or a 36, depending on how much ‘vanity

sizing’ is involved. So we’ve tried to eliminate the guesswork. “We’re a big sportswear store but tailored clothing is our fastest growing category. We offer good value, we don’t play high-low price games, and I believe the customer feels comfortable in our environments. We do some madeto-measure in tailored but that’s not our emphasis. “Bottom line, in a tough retail climate, we are bucking the trend and growing our market share. Our high comp store gains indicate that customers like what we’re doing and they’re coming back. I think JCP and Dillard’s do a good job with their dedicated B&T departments, but they’re catering more to women shopping for men, whereas Men’s Wearhouse is more of a clothing store. We’ve created an environment where guys like to shop for all their apparel needs. We’ve been able to do something that several multibillion dollar companies were unable to do and I’m very proud of that.”

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MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2015 MR

{ BIG & TALL }

Staying in stock on sizes is key to the business, even though it means slower turn.” —Greg Weitzenkorn, Weitzenkorn’s us if we can just come up with the numbers. If not, the future’s not looking bright: there’s less big & tall being made for the open market and the big box competition is doing a pretty good job.” Also doing a good job with national brands, boutique brands and exclusives: the independently owned Westport Big & Tall. Based in Charlotte N.C., they have two stores (Charlotte and Westport, Conn.) and a successful website/catalog business. Last year the online to catalog ratio was 60/40; this year it’s 70/30, meaning more customers are opting to shop online. The two stores combined contribute 10 percent to total volume. Says Westport founder Tom Altieri, “Each venue attracts

different customers so we have to do all three. We mail out more than three million catalogs, 19 drops a year. Yes, printing and mailings are expensive but without this, we’d lose a significant revenue stream.” Because of their size, Westport has been able to convince boutique brands to do B&T sizes, often including smaller BATA stores in the cuttings. Among the brands that Westport has introduced to big & tall: Thaddeus, True Grit and Peter Millar (now a major supplier). “We’re also testing some European brands in our stores,” says Altieri. “If it sells in the stores, and once we’re confident about the sizing, we then can offer it online.”

Try Something New

Here, three new-to-the-States fashion collections out of Europe that just might keep those big guys coming back and, better still, attract a younger customer.

ALLSIZE/NORTH/REPLIKA In its seventh season in the U.S., this Denmarkbased brand is huge in Europe, Russia, Australia and the Mideast and is starting to break into the States. Hot now, according to Jorgen Hem, are jackets in technical fabrics ($60 to $180 cost), Tshirts in soft beautiful fabrics ($9 to $30 cost), short sleeve wovens and some fabulous athleisure looks. The Replika division is their denim-driven collection that offers contemporary fashion.

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

FELLOWS UNITED A fashion-forward collection out of Amsterdam targeted to 35- to 55-year-olds, Fellows United is also in Canada with showrooms in Montreal and Toronto. “We specialize in tops,” says partner Sylvain Hinse. “Suggested retails are $90 for short sleeves, $99 for long sleeves. Our goal is to create wearable fashion with European flair meaning sophisticated styles and colors but not too tight, and not too expensive.”

DUKE The 30-year-old Duke Clothing Co. offers thousands of styles in all categories. They allegedly launch up to 500 new styles every season in sizes small to 8XL. Key items are their comfort-fit jeans available in stretch and rigid denim in seven colors (sizes to 70), oil-wash T-shirts and all-over print shorts, tees and shirts. According to Rohan Bassi, this British-based collection is in 1,455 stores worldwide and growing fast.

{ BIG & TALL }

There are Giants!

And some very fashionable ones at that. Tall guys (and those who dress them) should check out ThereAreGiants.com, a terrific website launched by Edward Miskie. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s filled with fabulous street shots of stylish guys, plus lifestyle, travel and fitness advice. If you stroll through life with your head in the clouds, you will love it! ADVERTORIAL

Van Heusen Traveler offers a unique extended size collection of belts by Unified Accessories. This functional collection incorporates belts in modern Van Heusen colors and allows your waist to enjoy a comfortable, roomy fit. So go ahead, ditch the airport saladâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;get the pizza. MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2015 MR

{ DENIM }

THE DENIM DEBATE

Interest in other types of bottoms has definitely cut into denim sales. Hopefully new washes and fits will jumpstart business. BY ELISE DIAMANTINI

“People always ask me, “Is denim going to be around for the next season or the next few years or the next 250 years?’ And I always say that denim is a blank white canvas. Michelangelo painted on a blank white canvas as did Matisse, and is the blank white canvas going out of style? I don’t think so. It depends on the artist and the relevance of the art,” explains American Rag founder Mark Werts. So while we can agree denim will never go out of style, it is a cyclical business that at the moment needs a bit of a boost. Narrow legs are now the norm, everyone’s raw denim has finally broken-in and men are wearing slimmer styles with some sort of stretch ( just don’t tell them that…). Retailers with a focused assortment, offering an edited selection of their core brands, are having some success. “Denim feels quiet at the moment,” observes Charlie Groom, senior men’s buyer of South Moon Under, a 24-store chain on the East Coast. “We’re making sure that we’re well-stocked but not over-assorted.” Adds Atrium’s men’s buyer, Stephanie Seely: “We’ve recently tightened our buying strategy to provide a more curated selection of core and fashion denim brands. Our best-sellers are tapered fits and moto jeans, with retail prices ranging from $145 to $1,200. This change has allowed us to offer a wider selection of bottoms for our customers, from denim and trousers, to chinos and joggers.” How has the popularity of joggers and non-denim bottoms impacted denim? Macy’s VP fashion director Durand Guion says, “Since many of

Men are wearing their jeans cropped or cuffed, showing more ankle. It’s been around for a while, but in Red Bank, New Jersey, it’s finally catching on.” –Johnell Garmany, Garmany our denim brands have incorporated the jogger trend into their assortments if there are any trade offs it may be minimal within more basic styles.” American Rag’s denim buyer Erika King says the jogger has helped strengthen bottoms business, “I have quite an assortment of joggers and non-denim bottoms in the denim bar. If anything, it only makes our business that much stronger.” Seely agrees, “Overall, joggers have grown our business. Guys are always going to want and need denim in their wardrobe. Being able to offer them non-denim options has allowed them to expand their wardrobe and still look and feel good.” Halls has expanded its offering of joggers from Zanerobe, now stocking five colors of the infamous Sureshot Chino. “It’s still more of a fash-

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

“The current trend is anything ripped and repaired.” –Durand Guion, Macy’s ion guy, but we’re seeing increases in sales from part of the whole athletic trend happening right now,” explains men’s buyer Joey Mendez. Garmany’s Johnell Garmany has strong opinions on the jogger trend too: “Death to the jogger! I despise them. It looks like everyone is heading to gym class. Fortunately, it’s had less of an impact over here in Red Bank, New Jersey, maybe because we’re more suburban. We do carry styles from Vince, Rag & Bone and Gucci, but it’s not very important for us, thank Goodness.”

DENIM DIRECTION While the jogger has created newness to the bottoms market, what’s selling in true denim? Raw styles are still selling, but raw continues to be a niche business. Most men want jeans that are comfortable with a soft hand which usually equates to washes rather than raw. Atrium’s Seely says, “Washes and fabric interest are the most exciting thing

happening in men’s denim right now: vintage fades, resin coated, waxed, cashmere blends, weights, etc. It’s amazing how brands are pushing the envelope to set them apart.” Adds Mendez, “Although our mainstream guy is getting into dark washes, clean design and slim fits, we’re starting to see growth in lighter washes and vintage distressed jeans again. Only this time they are still slim rather than the bootcut styles of years past and the pockets and branding are still minimal. We have definitely seen that swing into smaller leg openings and minimal branding/design officially hit the mainstream in our region. Our guy wants a slim clean look and feels his jeans with a bigger leg opening look dated.” The same is true at Von Maur. Men’s GMM Kristen Anderson says their customer is moving to slimmer leg openings and knit denim is starting to sell. “Our guy is responding to it if it’s in a wash he likes. It isn’t scaring him away being lighter weight and a different material.”

A look inside Halls in Kansas City

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2015 MR

{ DENIM } And when it comes to fashion denim, American Rag’s Erika King is excited about patchwork from brands like Fundamental Agreement Luxury (FDMTL). “Gaku is the genius behind FDMTL and it’s become one of my favorite denim lines. The patchwork on his denim and his attention to detail is incredible. I also love that denim brands are coming up with new ways to use less water, and still achieve amazing washes.” Destructed styles are what Macy’s fashion customer is buying. Says Guion, “The current trend is anything ripped and repaired. White denim is also coming on very strong which is exciting as he is learning how to incorporate it into his wardrobe.”

specific posts. We were concerned our Bridge customer might not want to see posts about all of our other departments like jewelry or home and unfollow us due to lack of specific desired information. It has worked pretty well with 830 followers since we launched it last holiday. We’ve had some customers call or come in asking for specific items from a post. We try to use a variety of posts to keep it interesting such as outfit grids, new arrival product shots, sale posts, etc. We’ll try to reference local happenings or current weather to keep it relevant. On Facebook, we’ve found any post featuring one of our style experts such as ‘Item of the Week’ seems to get the best results with the most likes and shares. I think social media followers love to see the person they work with featured on there.”

KEY TAKEAWAYS • Balance the floor by offering a range of price points from opening ($50 retail) to premium ($200-plus). • Denim around $100 retail is missing in the market. Some brands offering styles in this range include Levi’s, Silver Jeans Co. and Mavi.

GETTING SOCIAL With the endless options of where to shop, connecting with customers outside of the store on social media is key: be specific with your message and target the right customer base. Mendez of Halls tell us, “We recently started an Instagram account just for our Bridge department (women’s and men’s denim/contemporary) so we could feature department-

Mavi

Retail Dish: What’s needed to jumpstart business?

Innovation will always help drive denim business. Brands need to push the envelope on washes, finishes and the start of a more relaxed fit (as seen on the streets in Tokyo) yet tweaked through the lens of current trends. Personalization is another aspect of newness that could be expanded upon.” —Durand Guion, Macy’s

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

There is a void in the mid-tier price point between $98 to $145.” —Charlie Groom, South Moon Under

It would be great to see more brands using sustainable manufacturing processes, such as recycling water or using less energy, in an effort to be more environmentally friendly.” —Stephanie Seely, Atrium

• If you carry menswear and womenswear, give your men’s department its own Instagram handle. If you sell contemporary and traditional apparel, give your contemporary section its own handle. This will allow you to connect with this customer and show them only what they’re interested in seeing. • Comfort is key to selling trimmer fits. Stock brands that incorporate some type of stretch.

Basic programs are key. Some brands do a great job of keeping their basics updated and in stock. But with others, it seems like I’m fishing for info on updated basics line sheets because they want to focus on seasonal styles. We’ve found it beneficial to focus on basics, updating them every year by moving on from some older styles and sprinkling in a small amount of fashion styles each season. It makes for a healthy regular price business, while keeping sizes stocked in best-sellers. It’s important to our customers who want a quick and easy shopping experience.” —Joey Mendez, Halls

“Price point has been a more relevant topic recently than it’s been in the past. There has been an increase in promotional activity and that has made it more difficult to sell at regular price. There also has been more hesitation than in the past when it comes to $200 denim. You have to be aware, as does the vendor to make sure you aren’t isolating yourself. It’s all about finding the right balance on your floor among all price points.” —Kristen Anderson, Von Maur

PLEASE VISIT US AT BOOTH #722/724 @ MRKETLV MAC-JEANS.COM 646.726.4180

PHOTOGRA PHY BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY ON LOCAT ION IN LIMA

A SHORE THING

THIS PAGE: Orlebar Brown TRUNKS; Miansai BRACELETS; Rolex WATCH (THROUGHOUT). OPPOSITE PAGE: Thorsun TRUNKS; Tateossian BRACELETS.

THIS PAGE TOP: Saturdays NYC TRUNKS; Tom Ford SUNGLASSES; Miansai BRACELETS. BOTTOM: Thorsun TRUNKS; Tateossian BRACELETS. OPPOSITE PAGE: Dan Ward TRUNKS; Giles & Brother BRACELET; Miansai NECKLACE; Burberry SUNGLASSES.

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MODEL: FRANCO NORIEGA, Q MODEL MANAGEMENT.

{ MEMORIES }

SHUTTERSTOCK / SOMCHAIJ

WHAT HAPPENS IN VEGAS...

Those of us who have been going to Vegas trade shows for years and years have many wonderful stories. Unfortunately, few of them are suitable for publication. (“If I tell you, I’ll have to kill you…” was a frequent response.) That said, here are some of the special memories that made it through the censors. STEWART GOLDEN, TailorByrd: It was Valentine’s Day during the

shows and my wife Ellen and I were having lunch at the Grand Lux Cafe with five guys from Prato stores. Guys being guys, they were watching all the beautiful young women walk by in their low-cut dresses, short skirts, high heels and making the typical comments. Getting pretty annoyed, Ellen told the guys that they were being very obnoxious and as a woman, she didn’t feel like listening to such demeaning commentary. So she got up in a huff, went right over to a slot machine where she put in a few coins and within two seconds, she won $4,000. Three minutes later she was back at our table, thanking the guys for making the demeaning comments that made her leave. DAVID KATZ, Randa: I have one story involving Stu, a specialty retailer, a goat and a showgirl. Should I go on? (The goat underwent treatment for PTSD… The showgirl went on to fame and fortune.) JARON ROSS, Gant: Last season, I took an 8:45 a.m. flight to Vegas so I could get there early and set up the booth. We ended up being held on the tarmac for an hour and a half. There were about 15 people from the

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

industry on the flight and everyone was getting disgruntled. Finally, we were cleared to take off and just as the plane was about to lift, they turned us around. Apparently, we hit a flock of birds on our way up. We had to go through an hour-long security check before we could take off again. They actually brought the bag of dead birds on the flight to show us they weren’t lying. Finally, we were flying over Chicago and there was an announcement: the bathrooms weren’t working, so we were redirected to New York so we could switch planes! By this point everyone had drank way too much and fights started breaking out. We had to deplane and ended up getting to Vegas at midnight the night of set-up. Luckily Ryan Crenshaw was there with a six-pack of beer to help us set up our booth. It was a crazy flight, but it made for great material at the trade show. PAUL ROSENGARD , Boston Traders: The first and only time I got to sleep with Karen Alberg was on the last night of MAGIC in the early 1990s. Unfortunately, Stu Nifoussi and Jeff Spiegel joined us...and we were on the floor of the Chicago airport, snowed in and waiting for our connecting flight back to New York. Reality seldom lives up to the expectations of fantasy, but this one was uniquely disappointing.

l as vegas AU GU S T 1 7 – 1 9, 2 01 5 Mandalay Bay Convention Center

ALEXANDRE ABITAN, Report Collection: This

is going back to one of the very first trips to Vegas with my father. I was a young and innocent kid going to adult La La Land. Leaving the Montreal airport, I went through a routine customs screening. At my turn, the officer looked at my passport, noticed I was in my early teens and asked me, “What are you going to do in Vegas?” As I was clearly not legal to do anything enjoyable in Sin City, I ambiguously answered, “I’m going to hang out by the pool.” On the very first night we went

right to the casino and I sat down to hit the slots...within a few minutes a security guard asked if anyone in our party was underage. I was quickly sold out by my surrounding adults and was asked to leave and never set foot in the casino area again. An embarrassing experience that I’ll never forget!

The bartender there was an Irishman named Paddy, and we got to know him after a few shows and a few shots. It became a tradition for us to do shots of Patron before heading out for dinner. After about five years, when the industry had a downturn, the Patron disappeared from the bar. But Paddy always kept a bottle hidden for us.

JOHN STERN , Straus Clothing: The President’s

Club was a very nice perk for some of us oldtimers. Richard Dawahare, Brent Caplan and I would meet for lunch, and then for a drink.

discover the underwear loungewear collection in stores fall 2015

KELLY LEIMBERG , Trybus: Back in 2004, after breakdown, Michael, Brent and I went to the small Mexican place a few feet from the convention floor and celebrated our hard work with a few Coronas. My seat at the table was positioned so that I could see everyone walking by, Michael and Brent sat facing me. After a few minutes, my eyes bulged out of my head and they said “What’s wrong with you?” I replied, “I have never seen boobs that big before in my life!” They said, “Get up! We’re changing sides!” We later learned that a porn convention was moving in!

...just add confidence! MICHAEL KOFOED , True Grit: It was nearly 20

years ago and, as usual, we were well over our entertainment budget on expenses, go figure! I came up with the harebrained idea of putting cash down to cover. At the casino, I hit an Ace, and then I hit another Ace, but the dealer was showing a face! You could hear a pin drop when I split the Aces. We now had $1,000 on the table (a fortune for this Nebraska kid) and the tension was high. The dealer passed two cards to the split Aces, then flipped his cards showing a 20. As the dealer hit me: Bam! Queen of Hearts on one Ace, and Bam! King of Clubs on the other... The Ghost of Vegas Past was with me on that day as I finished that faithful August moment able to pay for most of my expenses. TONY MADDOX , Norton Ditto: While living

A licensed division of Majestic International. w.thompson@majesticinternational.com

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

in Vegas, I’d gotten an invitation from a VIP host to come out and help entertain some British bankers who wanted to have a Vegas experience. The host had set them up with a fantastic table right behind the DJ at 1 Oak in the Mirage hotel. As the place started to fill up, a group of guys wearing western clothes had taken the table next to us. What we were unaware of was that it was Ashton Kutcher, who was performing at the Country Music Awards the next night. Once the group had gotten settled into their table Ashton kept looking over at me, tilting back his cowboy hat and saying, “What’s up?” After he had repeated this motion several times I turned around and

L AS VEGAS AU GU ST 17 â&#x20AC;&#x201D;19, 2015 SA NDS EXP O | V EN ETI AN

M A K E W A V E S #L IB E RTY FAIR S #B R A N DTO G E T HE R

WWW.L IBERTY FAI RS.COM @LI B ERTY FAI RS

replied “What’s up?” The next thing I knew, Ashton and four of his guys are at our table. He grabs me, hugs me and said, “Man I haven’t seen you in a long time.” To which my response was “I know it’s been like never…” After several moments of shaking hands, the group returned to their table and our host came up to me and asked why I didn’t introduce him. To which I replied, “I don’t know the guy.” Later that night, in a cab headed home, I posted on Facebook: “Ashton Kutcher’s going to wake up in the morning and say when the hell did Bruce Willis get so fat?” I told the story to a group of industry friends in NYC and a woman next to us at the bar (who was from LA and worked for Madonna’s production company) overheard the story, turned to me and said, “I know who he thought you were: the producer Michael Becker. When you walked in, I thought you were him. You just happen to be a better dresser.” GARY LOWY , Sales Rep: It was back when I

was VP at Marzotto USA and we hosted a dinner and theater event for our reps and retailers. Since Guy La Ferrera was a costconscious wine chooser, we asked that he select the wines for the table. About three-quarters of the way through dinner I was told there was a fire at the Las Vegas Hilton theater and that 30 or so invitees needed to be contacted that we would not have a theater event that evening. I was beside myself, very distraught at having to disappoint so many. Then I called for the check which was about $5,000. I started to perspire and called over the waiter who explained that the wines ordered were very expensive. I could not believe that Guy would do such a thing and handed over my American Express. It was only then that I saw the hysterics around the table: The check was $1,300 and the theater event was intact. The joke was entirely on me. ROSS GERSHKOWITZ , Alpha Design Group: Do

I have Vegas stories? I worked with Marty Staff for several years: of course I have Vegas stories, none of which I can share.

PLEASE VISIT OUR BOOTHS AT MAGIC SHIRTS & TIES : #32100 SOCKS : #32105 SUNGLASSES : #32107 SUITS : #32110 SHOES : #32089 SWEATERS : #32099 WATCHES : #32103

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

MICHAEL DAVIS , Agave: My then-boyfriend was drinking by the hotel pool before one of the MRket shows. He came back to the room and said he made a new female friend whose husband turned out to be a major buyer at

one of the top U.S. retailers. I asked him to behave because you never know who you’ll meet in Vegas. That night, we ended up partying with this couple; the woman and my boyfriend got very intoxicated, dancing on a table at one of the industry parties. Her husband got mad and stormed out of the club; I sent my boyfriend back to NYC the next day. What happens in Vegas sometimes must leave Vegas. SEBASTIEN SCEMLA , Sebastian James: After one MRket show, we were out to dinner with friends and clients. We sat down for dinner and a very attractive woman sat across from me. After my first drink I looked up and caught her staring at me. I smiled, feeling a bit embarrassed as she continued to stare. The strange thing was that she was there with her husband and I was uncomfortable, especially since I’m a faithfully married man. Finally, after dinner, the woman and her husband backed me into a corner and asked if I’d come back to their room. “We’re swingers but don’t worry: you don’t have to have sex with my husband; he just wants to watch.” I quickly declined and hurried back to my room like a good husband. Then at 3 a.m, I thought I heard screaming so jumped out of bed and ran outside to see what was going on. The door slammed behind me and there I was: alone in the hallway in my boxer shorts (which happen to be pink) and no room key. It took 15 minutes for security to arrive: two large men, looking at me like I was the trouble maker and asking me for ID. I replied, “Do I look like I have any ID on me?!” They let me into the room, but didn't leave until I showed them my license.

ADOLFO 50

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

MICHELLE BROWN, MR magazine: It was several years ago and with one of our MR salesmen (who was testing me to see how cool I was), I ended up at a late-night party hosted by OutKast. First of all, I had no idea who they were—I knew they were showing a clothing collection at MAGIC but had not a clue that they were a famous hip hop group. Nor did I imagine how wild and crazy their following would be. Needless to say, it was an outrageous party, everyone was beyond wasted, and I was the only middle-aged suburban mother there, wandering around with my camera taking pictures and trying to get people to tell me their names and business affiliations. (I don’t think anyone there had a business affiliation.)

L A S

AGE OF WISDOM ALAN PAINE KNITWEAR ALBERTO ALPETORA/G. MANZONI AMERICAN OUTBACK HATS ANDREW FEZZA ANDREW FEZZA SHIRTS & NECKWEAR ANDREW MARC CLOTHING ANDREW-J SHIRTS ARISTO 18 ASHBURY HATS AUSTEN HELLER AVANTI BARBOUR CLASSIC BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL BARONI COUTURE/PRIVE/MAXDAVOLI/TREND BARUTTI BASIC OPTIONS BEAU BRUMMEL BEN SHERMAN BERMUDA STYLES BERWICH BILL BLASS BILLS KHAKIS BILLY LONDON BLANQAZUL BLUE LION APPAREL BOGOSSE BONVIVAN BORGO 28 BOSTON HARBOUR BOSTON TRADERS BR4SS BRANDOLINI BREUER SAS BRUNO MARCHESI BRYANT PARK NEW YORK BURMA BIBAS CABANO NEW CANADIAN CALVIN KLEIN CALVIN KLEIN CLOTHING CAMPIA

THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

V E G A S

CANALETTO CARIBBEAN JOE CARL GROSS SPORT COATS CARNOUSTIE SPORTSWEAR CARRELI CHELSEY IMPORTS CHIPPEWA 1901 CHRISTOPHER LENA CIRCLE OF GENTLEMEN CODICE CODIS MAYA COMPONENTS BY JOHN MCCOY COOPER & STEWART COOPER JONES SUPPLY COTTON BROTHERS COTTON REEL CRIQUET CUBAVERA RESORTWEAR CUTTER & BUCK DANIEL DOLCE ITALY DANIEL HECHTER DAVID SMITH AUSTRALIA DENTS HERITAGE COLLECTION DI BELLO BY NIPAL DIELMAR DIMENSIONS BY WCM DION DIRTY VELVET DKNY DOBBS HATS DOCKERS DOLCEPUNTA DOMONIQUE DONA DONA NECKWEAR DONALD TRUMP SIGNATURE COLLECTION DOUBLE G HATS ECCO ECOTHS EDWARD ARMAH EISENBERG INTERNATIONAL EMANUEL UNGARO OUTERWEAR ENRO

ENZO TOVARE ENZONE FASHIONS EQUILIBRIO ERNEST HEMINGWAY EURO FASHIONS/CHIARI/EMILIO YUSTE/ITALUOMO EUROPEAN FASHION GROUP EUROPERFUMES FABIO FAZIO NECKWEAR FLORSHEIM FLY BELT FLYNT FORSYTH OF CANADA FREDRICK MARTIN GARDEUR GARMENT GROUP INC. GEOFF NICHOLSON GEOFFREY BEENE GIMO’S GIONFRIDDO GITMAN BROS GLOBAL MINT GRAN SASSO GRUPPO BRAVO HAGGAR NECKWEAR HALLMARK NECKWEAR HALSEY HANDSTICH HAPPY TIES HARBOUR INTERNATIONAL LLC HAUPT HEAD ‘N HOME HATS/AMERICAN HAT MAKER HIGHLAND SHOE HILTL HILTON CLUB HOOK + ALBERT HORN LEGEND I. MILLER IBIZA IKE BEHAR IKE BEHAR TAILORED IMM NECKWEAR/VIV SHIRTS IMPULSO

INGRAM INSIGNIA DESIGN GROUP/DIV. OF PVH CORP. INTERNATIONAL LAUNDRY ISAAC MIZRAHI ISAAC MIZRAHI LEATHER GOODS ITALIAN SELECT ITALO FERRETTI ITALWEAR/A. BOSSI J.M. DICKENS J.S. BLANK & CO/BARBARA BLANK JACK OF SPADES JACK VICTOR JAMES CAMPBELL JAMES CAMPBELL SOCKS JAMES TATTERSALL JAY & LEONARD JIMMY SALES NECKWEAR/BRUNO PIATTELLI JOHN PETER LONDON JOHNNIE O JOHNNY MATT BY MICHAEL & DAVID JOHNSTON & MURPHY JONES NEW YORK KAHALA SPORTSWEAR KAPRAUN KEEPERS INTERNATIONAL KENNETH COLE CLOTHING KENNETH COLE COATS & RAINWEAR KIFF KIFF KINROSS CASHMERE KROON KUHL LANCIA LANIER CLOTHES LAUREN RALPH LAUREN LAVITA LEFT COAST TEE LEJON LEO CHEVALIER LINEN HATS LIPSON SHIRTMAKERS LOFT 604/CESARANI LONDON FOG LONE PINE LEATHERS LORENZONI LOUDMOUTH GOLF NECKWEAR LUCHIANO VISCONTI LUCHIANO VISCONTI BLACK LUCIANO CARRELI LUCIANO MORESCO MAC OF GERMANY MAKER AND COMPANY MANTONI MARCELLO SPORT MARCHESI DI COMO MARCO VALENTINO MARCRAFT MARTIN DINGMAN MASTERHAND MATT TOTILLO MATTARAZI UOMO, INC.

MEYER MICHAEL & DAVID MICHAEL KORS MIGUEL BELLIDO MINERALS MISSANI LE COLLEZIONI MMG MODENA MONTECHIARO MONTI NAT NAST LUXURY ORIGINALS NATURAL BLUE NEWPORT ISLE NICK GRAHAM NIGEL KNOX NOMO OLIMPO ORIGINAL PENGUIN HOSIERY OVERTON PACIFIC SILK PAISLEY & GRAY PALM BEACH PANTHERELLA PARABOOT PARK WEST PASOTTI PATRICK ASSARAF PAUL BETENLY CLOTHING PEACOCK APPAREL PEERLESS BOYS PEERLESS CLOTHING USA, INC. PELICAN COAST CLOTHING PER PEDES SOCKS PERRY ELLIS INTERNATIONAL PERU UNLIMITED PERUVIANNI POLIFRONI MILANO PUNTO SOCKS PVH DRESS FURNISHINGS GROUP QUIETI RAFFI LINEA UOMO REMO TULLIANI REMY LEATHER REPORTER RES IPSA RICHARD JAMES RICHMART RIZZI ROAMERS & SEEKERS LTD. ROBERT GRAHAM CLOTHING ROBERT GRAHAM HOSIERY ROCKMOUNT RANCH WEAR MFG. CO. ROFFE ACCESSORIES ROMA INDUSTRIES ROOSTER NECKWEAR ROSS GRAISON ROSSETTI UOMO/ANTONIO CARDINNI RYAN MICHAEL S!R BY EDDIE EDWARDS S. COHEN INC.

SALENCE SCHUYLER 4 LTD. SCOTT NICHOL SCULLY/HIDESIGN SEAN JOHN SEBASTIEN JAMES COLLECTION SERICA SMATHERS AND BRANSON SOLAIR HATS SOUTHERN PROPER SOUTHERN TIDE ST. CROIX AND HERITAGE BY ST. CROIX STACY ADAMS STEAMPUNK HATTER STENSTROMS STETSON HATS STEVE HARVEY NECKWEAR STEVEN LAND STUDIO IL SURVIVALON SUSAN G. KOMEN TAILORBYRD TALAZZI TALLIA ORANGE HOSIERY TAMPA FUEGO TATEOSSIAN LTD. TED BAKER THADDEUS THE BIRD DOG GROUP THE BRITISH APPAREL COLLECTION LTD. THE BRITISH BELT COMPANY THE SAVILLE ROW CO. THOMPSON TIGER MOUNTAIN TIGLIO INC. TIGLIO LUXE TM FASHION TODD SNYDER TOMMY HILFIGER TORI RICHARD, LTD. TORINO TORRAS TOSCANO AQUA TRUE GRIT VANNUCCI VINTAGE ITALIA VIYELLA VOODOO HATTER WALTON DESIGNS WIGENS WINDSOR COLLECTION WOOD UNDERWEAR XACUS - ANDREA ZORI XMI YOU + SHIRT YOU + SHIRT BY AMY ZANETTI ZB SAVOY BOWTIE CO

Company names listed are accurate as of printing, but do not reﬂect our ﬁnal list of exhibitors. Visit our website for updated lists. THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

Van g ua rds Galler y is a curated s ecti o n by M ic h a e l M a c ko th a t brin gs a f re sh pe r spe c tiv e a n d i n fe cti o u s enthusias m f ro m bu rge o n in g de sign e r s to M Rke t.

D IRTY VELVET

WOOD UN DE R WE AR

H AN DSTI TC H

MON TI

ALBE RTO

N ATU R A L B LU E

MATT TOTI LLO

w w w. m r ke t s h o w.c o m / va n g u a rd s - g a l l e r y

THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.MRKETSHOW.COM

R OAME R S & SE E K E R S LTD.

# Va n g u a rd s G a l l e r y

CIR CLE OF G E N T LEM EN

R ES IPS A

S AL E N C E

H ALSE Y

KAPRAUN

LOFT 604/CES ARANI

AUSTEN HELLER

PA SOTTI

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THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

BRANDS

A S H B U RY HATS

EMA N U EL U NG A R O

IMPULSO

R A FFI LINEA U OM O

THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

RYAN MI C H AE L

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PO L I FR O NI M I L A NO

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VOODOO H ATTE R

TH E B R ITISH B ELT COM PAN Y

STAC Y ADAMS

O LIMPIO

LO R EN ZONI

GI MOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

S!R BY E DDI E E DWAR DS

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THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

BRANDS

ALPETORA/G. MANZONI

B A R O N I CO U T U R E

TO M M Y H I L F I G E R

E UROPE RF U ME S

LUCHIANO VISCONTI

THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

MATTARAZI UOMO INC .

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MMG

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S TR ENSTR OM S

PVH DRESS FURNISHINGS GROUP

STETSON HATS

THE S AVILLE ROW CO

MAC OF GE R MAN Y

K E N N E TH COL E COATS & R AI N WE AR

J O N ES NEW YOR K

XACUS

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THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

BRANDS

SUS AN G. KOMEN AMERICAN LIFESTYLES

G A R MENT G R OU P IN C .

AN DRE W J. SH I RTS

D O B B S H AT S

BRYAN T PAR K N E W YOR K

THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

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H I LTL

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CU TTER & B U CK

STU DI O I L

JAMES TATTERS ALL

HAUPT

G LO B A L M I N T

ROSS GRAISON

STE V E H ARV E Y N EC KWE AR

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THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

BRANDS

I TA LW E A R A B O S S I

N EW PORT ISLE

AVAN TI

J OH N N I E O

B LU E LION A PPA R EL

LIN E N H ATS

THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

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INTERNATIONAL LAUNDRY

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TORI RI C H AR D LTD.

G A R DEU R

DAVID SMITH AUSTRALIA

AN DR E A ZOR I

C AMPI A

SOUTHERN TIDE

KAHALA SPORTSWEAR

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THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

BRANDS

S U RVIVA LON

C AL L AWAY

J O H N PETER LON DON

F LOR SH E I M

BURMA BIBAS

PG A TOUR

BE N H OG AN

THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

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G R A ND SLA M

S AVAN E

IS A AC MIZR A H I LEATHER G OODS

PAR K WE ST

JACK NICKLAUS

KE E PE RS I N TE R N ATI ON AL

R E MO TU L L I AN I

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THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

BRANDS

BR4SS

B R A N DOLINI

ST. CROIX AND HERITAGE BY ST. CROIX

V I YE LLA

TAILORBYRD

THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

SOLAIR HATS

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VAN N U CC I

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YO U + SHIRT BY A M Y

MA R CHESI DI COM O

ROOSTE R N EC KWE AR

H APPY TI E S

DAN I E L DOLC E I TALY

C AR N OU STI E SPORTWE AR

IN S IG NIA DESIG N G R OU P/DIV. OF PV H CORP.

DOLC E PU N TA

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THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

BRANDS BI L L S K H AK I S

S TEA MPU NK H AT T ER

FLY B ELT

JACK OF SPADES

GRAN SASSO

C A R L G R O S S S P O RT COAT S

THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

A M E R I C A N O U T B AC K H AT S

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A U G U S T 1 7-1 9, 2 01 5 | S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 01 6

TH A DDEU S

H AR BOU R I N TE R N ATI ON AL L LC

C AR I BBE AN J OE

K R O ON

DI BELLO BY NIPAL

M I S S A N I L E CO L L E Z I O N I

DOUBLE G H ATS

BOSTON H AR BOU R

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.MRKETSHOW.COM

THE BRANDS AT MRKET LV

This season MRket/ Vanguards Gallery is thrilled to be partnering with Southern Proper to produce August’s complimentary tote bag.

ART BAR, SPIN ART AND LAWN GAMES!

(While supplies last)

THE PALAZZO EXCLUSIVE RATE $169 DOWNLOAD OUR MOBILE APP

Design your shopping experience prior to the show. Browse categories and organize the brands you need to see. Available at the app store: Search BJI MyMarket.

RESERVE ONLINE: Visit the Travel Section of mrketshow.com RESERVE BY CALLING: 800.826.3079 (US and Canada) or 310.590.4706 (International) TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THIS EXCLUSIVE RATE WHILE ROOMS ARE AVAILABLE.

COMPLIMENTARY AMENITIES BREAKFAST / LUNCH / BOTTLED WATER / COFFEE / TEA / WIFI LOUNGE COMPLIMENTARY SOUTHERN PROPER BAG (While supplies last)

MODERN ASSEMBLY The BJI Fashion Group is proud to be a part of Modern Assembly. Six Unique Shows. One Convenient Location. Endless Possibilities. www.modernassembly.com

TAXI REIMBURSEMENT

Let us pick up the cost of your taxi ride to the Venetian. Present a receipt at the registration counter and we’ll reimburse your fare up to $10. (For retailers, show days only)

OPENING NIGHT RECEPTION MONDAY, AUGUST 17th - 5:00pm - 6:30pm All buyers will be invited to network and continue to shop into the evening.

AUGUST 17-19, 2015 MONDAY 9-6:30 TUESDAY 9-6 WEDNESDAY 9-4 Đ THE SANDS EXPO/PALAZZO, LV Đ HALL A WWW.MRKETSHOW.COM HOTEL RECOMMENDATIONS Đ TRAVEL OFFERS Đ EXHIBITOR UPDATES Đ SHOW SITE AMENITIES Đ SHUTTLE INFO NEED MORE INFORMATION? 866-696-6020 Đ BUYERINFO@MRKETSHOW.COM #MRKETSHOW #VANGUARDSGALLERY

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HOW___________WORKS

BY MICHAEL MACKO

In an industry filled with nice guys, Kevin Harter is one of the nicest. He’s Bloomingdale’s VP for fashion direction, fashion office-home & men’s and has been with the company for 25 years. He’s also a husband and dad of twin boys and serves on the board of Housing Works. We take a look inside his glass walled office on Third Avenue and see how Kevin Harter works.

SURFBOARD This surfboard was in our 59th Street store windows as part of a beneﬁt for Surfers Healing. I loved the design and wanted to support the cause so I bought it. Bloomingdale’s is currently gearing up to open its ﬁrst Hawaii location in November 2015 so all things surf-related are top of mind.

JONATHAN LEWIS PRINT

ROLODEX

I know these are old school and obviously I keep my contacts electronically, but I’ve had my Rolodexes since the beginning of my career and they hold so much history. I will never get rid of them.

TOM FORD SKETCH I am very fortunate to have worked with the legendary Kal Ruttenstein. When he received the Eleanor Lambert CFDA Award in 2002 Tom Ford, then at Gucci, designed his tuxedo for the ceremony. I have a box that contains all the sketches from the design process. I love having a reminder of Kal in my ofﬁce.

Bloomingdale’s did a book signing for artist Jonathan Lewis’ coffee table book, ‘The End.’ This is a reproduced print of one of my favorite images in the book.

BLOOMINGDALE’S CUBE

PHOTOS

I’m lucky to have worked with so many designers, personalities and athletes throughout my career at Bloomingdale’s. However the most important photos are of my husband and two sons, Jake and Alexander.

MR AUGUST 2015 | MR-Mag.com

I’ve worked at Bloomingdale’s for 25 years and this cube, which says ‘Like No Other Store In The World,’ our company motto, keeps me focused on our vision.

To see more of how Kevin Harter works, go to MR-Mag.com.

I have a slight obsession with finely constructed portfolios. I found this orange one in a little store in Florence while in town for Pitti Uomo—it’s the current one in rotation and I’m really into the color.

PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

ORANGE PORTFOLIO

Your essential site for everything menswear.

MR-Mag.com For advertising information contact Michelle Brown | 212.710.7413 | MichelleB@mr-mag.com

MR AUGUST 2015

THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MAGAZINE / LAS VEGAS MARKET

A BUSINESS JOURNALS PUBLICATION

Vol. 26 No. 5