MR Magazine January 2024

JANUARY 2024 · ISSUE NO. 1 · VOL. 34

PHILADELPHIA FREEDOM JANUARY MARKET ISSUE

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Our collection of accessible luxurious coats travels well and offers a wide range of styles.

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Dallas Men’s Show The Fastest Growing Men’s Trade Event in North America.

JANUARY 27 - 29, 2024 Bigger, better, convenient, inspiring.

Join us at Dallas Men’s Show, featuring a growing collection of top brands across multiple lifestyle categories.

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CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS 8 Editor’s Letter Fashion and friendships

11 Doug Hand Legal Matters

12 Fashion Futures What's next?

19 Outerwear Retro-future

30 Fashion Philadelphia Forward

56 Last Look Trends to takeaway

FEATURES 14 Issues The Cost of Luxury

24 Boyds Celebrating 85 years

42 Markets New York State of Mind ON THE COVER: On left: Aaron wears a Tommy Hilfiger coat, Hamilton shirt, Drake’s tie and Crab and Cleek tote bag.

Middle: Mason wears a Gant jacket, G.H. Bass sweater and Todd Snyder x Champion sweatpants.

On right: Dylan wears a Brooks Bothers coat, Gloverall turtleneck, Lucky Brand pants, and a Tartan Blanket Co. scarf.

Above: Mason wears a Maria Black “BRO” ring, and G.H. Bass jacket.

Mason wears a Levis vest, Gant turtleneck, Howlin’ sweater and mittens, Universal Works pants, Jansport backpack, American Trench socks, and Quoddy shoes. Hat (in pocket) stylist’s own.

Photography by Jeffrey Rose; styling by Michael Macko; grooming by Wesley O’Meara/Honey Artists.

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44 Retail Radar Contemporary Independents

52 TikTok Menswear in motion

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THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE

EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN KAREN.ALBERG@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM FASHION & CONTENT EDITOR JOHN RUSSEL JONES JOHN.JONES@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM CONTRIBUTING EDITOR MICHAEL MACKO MICHAEL.MACKO@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM ART DIRECTOR KARA KABLACK, KARA.KABLACK@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM CONTRIBUTING CREATIVE DIRECTORS NANCY CAMPBELL, TREVETT MCCANDLISS MCANDCSTUDIO@GMAIL.COM

ADVERTISING GROUP PUBLISHER LIZETTE CHIN LIZETTE.CHIN@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER CHARLES GARONE CHARLES.GARONE@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM

PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGERS LAURIE GUPTILL, FERN MESHULAM, KATHY WENZLER MARKETING & PRODUCTION SPECIALIST CATHERINE ROSARIO OFFICE MANAGER PENNY BOAG ACCOUNTING KASIE CARLETON, URSZULA JANECZKO, BRUCE LIBERMAN

ADVISORY BOARD TINA ANIVERSARIO NORDSTROM JUSTIN BERKOWITZ BLOOMINGDALE’S SAM GLASER STITCHED KARL-EDWIN GUERRE NO CHASER/GUERRISMS KATIE LIU & MICHAEL KREIMAN BLACK DOG 8 SHOWROOM ALAN LEINEN HALLS STEVE PRUITT BLACKS RETAIL

WAINSCOT MEDIA CHAIRMAN CARROLL V. DOWDEN PRESIDENT & CEO MARK DOWDEN CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER/VICE PRESIDENT STEVEN RESNICK SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS LIZETTE CHIN, RITA GUARNA VICE PRESIDENTS NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, NOELLE HEFFERNAN, MARIA REGAN

MR (ISSN 1049-6726, USPS 7885) IS PUBLISHED FIVE TIMES A YEAR (JANUARY, FEBRUARY, JULY, AUGUST, NOVEMBER) MR MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT MAHWAH, NJ. AND AT ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: TO CHANGE AN ADDRESS OR REQUEST A SUBSCRIPTION, WRITE TO SUBSCRIPTIONS, MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656; TELEPHONE: 201-573-5541. ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: CONTACT LIZETTE CHIN AT 201.571.2077 OR LIZETTE.CHIN@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM. COPYRIGHT © 2024 BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 34, ISSUE 1.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

FASHION AND FRIENDSHIP: TWO QUINTESSENTIAL ANTI-DEPRESSANTS MAYBE IT’S THE deteriorating state of

world affairs or the animosity in our dysfunctional Congress. Or perhaps it’s the family, financial, relationship, and/ or health problems that are an intrinsic part of being human. Whatever it is that’s causing the increased anxiety and hopelessness so many of us are experiencing these days, remember this: we in the menswear business are lucky

associates in our industry is unique and truly joyful to behold.

As we kick off this January ’24 print issue and our 34th year (how is this possible?) projecting trends, profiling success stories, uncovering emerging talent, and analyzing business, let me first express gratitude to the many loyal advertisers who have supported us over the years and the retailers across the country who continue to share their successes and concerns. We wouldn’t be here without you, and truly appreciate your votes of confidence.

As I search for the right message to begin a new year in decidedly troubled times, I can’t help but think of industry leaders who are no longer with us, but whose memory still inspires and brings hope. Raffi Shaya was one such innovator. Although he passed six months ago, his spirit and optimism still ring loud and clear. From a post-pandemic interview in MR, Raffi reminds us that a career in men’s fashion is far from inconsequential. “In many ways, the

“THE CONNECTION THAT EVOLVES AMONG BUSINESS ASSOCIATES IN OUR INDUSTRY IS UNIQUE AND TRULY A JOY.”

PHOTO BY ROSE CALLAHAN

to make a living from two quintessential anti-depressants--fabulous fashion and genuine friendships. The connection that so often evolves among business

pandemic was a wake-up call, not just a reminder to celebrate life but also a cry for new fashion options: new yarns, new models, new colors. You know, fashion is hardly a frivolous pursuit: the way you look very much affects the way you feel. If you’re not happy with the person you see in the mirror, it’s hard to be happy with anything else.

“And so I advise people: always show your best self. When I can get a guy into quality fashion in current models and fresh colors, I often see a total change in his personality. And seeing this type of transformation is what drives me to keep creating.”

Happy New Year to all our readers and friends from all of us at MR: Lizette, Charles, John, Michael, and me. May it be a year of creativity, connections, prosperity, and peace.

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PRESENTS: NEW DATE PATTERN – JOIN US ON PREVIEW SATURDAY!

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THE MART, CHICAGO

THE MART, CHICAGO

L E G A L M AT T E R S

Meet MR’s New Contributor:

DOUGLAS HAND

IT’S BEEN SAID THAT THE GOOD LAWYER IS THE GREAT SALESMAN. THIS ONE’S ALSO A STYLE ICON!

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

DOUGLAS HAND HAS a storied career in fashion law. He’s literally written a book on the topic, and one on personal style. We’ve invited him to pen a regular column about the legal and fashion dilemmas facing menswear retailers.

Why did you choose law and where does your interest in fashion come from?

The law just fits my temperament and intellect.

I was pretty certain at a relatively early age that I’d end up practicing. My interest in fashion is completely organic. It’s hard for me to separate caring about fashion from caring about myself.

What are some of the more interesting aspects of your work at present?

Working with creative professionals is always invigorating and fashion designers are most certainly that. My firm HBA LLP covers all aspects of the fashion industry, but the design and marketing elements present some of the more engaging legal questions. Thankfully I have some great partners.

What exactly is fashion law?

Fashion law encompasses not only intellectual property law and commercial/contract law but also employment, corporate, real-estate, import/ export, litigation. It’s a massive industry: so many areas of law come to bear in quite specific ways.

You’ve said that when the job market is bad, men dress better. Can you elaborate?

Well, “better” is a bit of a value judgement, so let me say that men dress more formally as the job market tightens. It’s almost a lockstep relationship. Guys understand that dressing more formally in the workplace (or when interviewing in the potential workplace) communicates a respect for the job. Sort of treating the occupation with a little reverence.

Tell us about your book and podcast, The Laws of Style.

When the American Bar Association approached

me as a publisher and asked if I’d consider writing a book, it struck me that service professionals (not just lawyers) lack a comprehensive guidebook for looking elegant and capable. So many men have an ivory tower perspective: if you aren’t getting your suits made bespoke on Jermyn Street, you’re sort of ignorant and slovenly, not in the club for those “in the know.” I wanted to speak to guys with a voice in the know, but outside the club.

Is there a solution for all the overproducing in the fashion industry?

It’s a complicated macro question for sure.

Overproduction has been systemic based on the cycle of seasonal fashion, which seeks to convince us that what we bought three months ago is now obsolete—not because it fails as a garment but because it’s out of fashion. The economics of the retailer to brand relationship places risk on not having enough of a “hot” item. The industry has attempted some group discussions around self-regulation but the problem with collective action is the potential for antitrust violations. But if the government is going to intervene where it believes brands are engaging in collective action to the detriment of consumers, it also needs to step in with regulation to address some of the environmental consequences, which are detrimental to us all.

Can you comment on fashion collaborations between luxury and mainstream brands?

Collaborations have driven the fashion conversation for a while now. They’re a great way for brands to gain access to a different customer base and/or a new product market.

Today’s successful collabs are often high/low

pairings of luxury with mass market. I think the collabs done by retailers like Target, PacSun and H&M are good examples.

Your thoughts on influencer marketing?

It can be a great way to connect with customers, particularly via the use of micro influencers with real and engaged followers. I think using mega

“DISCLOSING PAID PARTNERSHIPS IS AN ABSOLUTE MUST.” influencers is no different than using traditional brand ambassadors, a practice that’s been around for ages. The important thing for brands and retailers to recognize is that this is regulated by the FTC in most states, so disclosing paid partnerships is an absolute must.

Mergers, acquisitions and financial problems have left us with fewer department stores. Is this good or bad?

I think within reason, choice is always good for consumers, as is a healthy, competitive market of retailers for consumers to select from.

Most big stores have traditionally supported emerging brands and given them a broader platform than most DTC or brand-owned retail concepts can. The loss of Barneys, for example, set back a lot of small independent brands that, after the bankruptcy, had no real national representation.

Send your fashion law questions for Douglas to dhand@hballp.com.

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FORECAST

FASHION FUTURES

BY MICHAEL MACKO

Some examples of the new suit from left to right: Bugatchi, Nili Lotan, Hugo by Hugo Boss, Closed, and NN07.

A NEW WAY OF WORKING REQUIRES A NEW SUIT

Now that the Covid pandemic is in the rearview mirror, life has gotten back to the new normal, which, for many, includes a new hybrid format of working three to four days in the office and the others remotely. A new work uniform is emerging as a favorite choice and the formula makes sense: a hybrid of the suits everyone wore pre-Covid and the sweatsuits that quickly became the work-from-home choice during. This new suit comes in matching separates, that we used to call a hookup,

with the jacket resembling more of a work coat, with one to four pockets, and a relaxed fuller pant. The preferred choice of underpinning is a jersey in the wearer’s favorite silhouette.

Most brands show these with T-shirts, but a long-sleeved polo or turtleneck is an easy way to elevate this look. These are separates that work on their own over denim or under knitwear and a coat, and show the continuation of the male wardrobe evolving from having two distinct, “work” and “play” options to only one that is “ just wear”.

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GOBI: TRULY TRACEABLE CASHMERE

How many brands can claim that they know the animals who produce the fibers that ultimately become their finished product? Mongolian based cashmere company, Gobi Cashmere can.

Gobi, a vertically integrated company, is one of the top five largest cashmere manufacturers in the world who’s core belief is a commitment to traceability in both supply chain and production. At Gobi, all products are made in its factory in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, where everything from raw cashmere processing and yarn creation to final production is done in-house.

This traceability, coupled with the brand’s commitment to responsible hiring (the majority of the brand’s workforce is female), forms a strong foundation from which the region’s most prized asset is cultivated, processed, and presented to global consumers.

The brand, named after the desert region that occupies most of southern Mongolia, uses 100 percent raw Mongolian cashmere. By partnering with the herders and their ancient heritage—in which they hand-comb the goats—it creates eco-friendly cashmere garments that feel as lovely as they look. And since it doesn’t work with third parties, Gobi is able to offer these cashmere goods to the public at a fraction of the cost Gobi provides head-to-toe cashmere dressing, including sneakers, with an MSRP of $199 for low tops, and as you probably know, one of the best things about cashmere, is that it is temperature regulating, so you can easily wear it year round.

For more information visit gobicashmere.com or contact support-2@ gobicashmere.com

At the heart of Gobi Cashmere’s story lies the Mongolian nomadic herders, whose lifestyle embodies sustainable living at its best.

GETTY

LUCA FALONI - DRESSING ONE OF THE ONE PERCENT

Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, and Prince William, Duke of Cambridge, wearing a Luca Faloni Portofino shirt at a polo match in Windsor.

There’s been a lot written about stealth wealth and quiet luxury this past fashion cycle, usually synonymous with brands like Loro Piano, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, and The Row, that don’t require logos to announce the wearer. Instead they discreetly whisper, “ If you know, you know.”

Luca Faloni knew when he saw the 2020 Christmas card of Prince William and his family, that he had landed one of the most photographed men in the world as a customer. Prince William was wearing the brand’s chunky knit cashmere crew neck in hunting green, which retails for $490 with its denim shirt in classic blue, made in Italy from Albini fabric, for $195. The prince is also a fan of the brand’s Portofino Linen Shirt, having been photographed in the blue melange and sage versions, which are made in Northern Italy, using the finest Italian pure linen and mother-of-pearl buttons.

Price is a big part of the appeal of the Faloni brand. He’s certainly less expensive than most other brands in the quiet luxury arena, but that’s part of the appeal to many men whose clothing and price tags are closely scrutinized, as Faloni told The Sunday Times of London, “They don’t want to be flashy. If you’re Prince William, you don’t want 60 million people in England to know that you bought a £10,000 jacket from an expensive brand. You look for something discreet and classic, It’s classic but different — without going crazy.” These price points allow the mega-rich to buy in color and style multipliers, while also allowing aspirational customers access to luxury.

One unique aspect of the brand is that Faloni has a strict no-sales rule because he feels “it’s absurd and wrong. When you go to a restaurant you pay full price. When you go to the cinema you pay full price. No other industry says, ‘Stick around a while and we’ll give you everything for 70 percent off.’ That doesn’t make any sense. It’s unhealthy for the industry, for the consumer, for the brands, and for the environment.”

Faloni currently has a DTC distribution plan with eight freestanding stores throughout the world, two in the US in New York City and Miami, but I think it is only a matter of time until the right retailer makes him an offer he won’t be able to refuse. For more information please check out lucafaloni.com/en-us/ or contact them at care@lucafaloni.com.

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ISSUES

How Much is TOO MUCH? IS THE BUBBLE ABOUT TO BURST ON PRICE INCREASES IN LUXURY MENSWEAR? BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

TICKET PRICES ON LUXURY goods seem to

have risen out of control these past few years.

According to a recent article in The New York Times, average luxury prices are up 25 percent since 2019. In luxury menswear, it seems the increases are even more dramatic. When one luxury clothing brand was asked last season why they raised prices so dramatically, the response was, “because we can.” More recently, a major luxury maker sent out letters to their specialty accounts, dictating the dollar increase in fall ’24 orders they expect from each store, as well as how these dollars should be allocated by category.

Here, MR asks menswear merchants if their customers are holding back or trading down due to sticker shock. And if so, how are store owners dealing with this situation?

STUART SEGEL, MR. SID, BOSTON AND NEWTON, MA

LARRY DAVIDSON, DAVIDSON’S, ROANOKE, VA

Instead of significant price increases, we’ve offered fewer and smaller markdowns on our promotions and incentives. We’ve also started later, and shortened our end of season clearance events. We’ve introduced new luxury

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“CUSTOMERS AREN’T NECESSARILY TRADING DOWN, BUT THEY’RE BUYING FEWER UNITS.” —STUART SEGEL, MR. SID, BOSTON and fashion items to test the limits of how our clients will respond at the top end.

There’s no question that we’ve enjoyed a wonderful stretch of business over the last few years, however I’m cautious about the near future. Wardrobes have been replaced and

some of the excess cash has been spent (or will be spent) on experiences rather than clothing.

Not to mention the headwinds produced by the next election cycle, the continuing level of immigration, and ethnic issues on multiple war fronts.

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I’m hopeful that prices will hold where they are. We’ve seen substantial cost increases the last few seasons and I believe the market is reacting. We’ve heard from clients, and many have “had enough.” They don’t necessarily trade down but they buy fewer units.

Price increases are primarily a result of market pressures. The labor market, after the pandemic, has been a major factor in inflation and I believe has affected the luxury market in particular. Consolidation is another factor and will continue to be a concern. Positioning a brand as “luxury” without offering valueadded ingredients is a dangerous proposition.

Eventually the consumer will catch on.

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ISSUES ANONYMOUS RETAILER:

DAVID RUBENSTEINS, RUBENSTEIN’S, NEW ORLEANS, LA

There are currently two economies in America and in the world. Retailers must look at their markets: does their city have high-income citizens and/or affluent tourists? If they have either or both, there’s no limit to the prices these customers will pay. If a guy has money and if he’s a clothes horse, he’ll show his success by the labels he wears. If he likes cars, watches, etc., that’s how he’ll spend his money. He’ll show his success and leadership by buying the most expensive offerings from the most expensive brands. Ralph Lauren taught me that when I first bought his collection: find the leader and he’ll lead his friends to your store.

As for the vendor letter that was sent to many menswear stores, this company has become so big that specialty stores are little more than an extra cost they no longer need.

Without us, they don’t need a New York office or staff. It becomes easier for them to order fabric and the production process becomes simplified. From their vantage point, reducing the number of smaller specialty store accounts makes a lot of sense.

NICK HILTON, NICK HILTON, PRINCETON, NJ

In our little world, it appears folks are now getting over a period of post-pandemic economic exuberance, the kind of emotional wave that surges and recedes over time and affects all kinds of economic activity. We are grateful to have had help keeping our inventories in line from our advisors (Blacks Retail) to foresee and to navigate these business cycles and to plan for the gradual upturns and downturns that are natural in any business.

“ON THE WHOLE THIS YEAR, I’D SAY INFLATION HAS HELPED OUR BUSINESS.”

We carry five to eight price points to satisfy all budgets.

We carry Oxxford at the top, then Samuelsohn and Heritage Gold, Coppley, Empire, Jack Victor, Trands, and Adrian Jules for the rack and custom. We open with Maxman and Paul Betenly; we also carry Byron. On the rack suits are $695 to $4995; sport coats are $595 to $3995. Our staff shows customers the top brands first, going down a price point if necessary. It’s always a compliment to the customer to show the best first. So it seems we sell Heritage Gold and Samuelsohn first. But customers buy various brands, selecting what they like in pattern and color.

—NICK HILTON, HILTONS As for sportswear, we’ve gone into the PRINCETON, PRINCETON NJ stratosphere, selling cashmere sweaters at $795 and sport shirts (Emanuel Berg) at $395.

However, on the whole this year, I’d say I think we offer value as well as quality, so our inflation has helped business. Our sales, customers have not reacted negatively. margins, transaction value and average unit sales are all up for the year, and price resistance BOB MITCHELL, MITCHELL STORES has not really been a factor. However, since We continue to be concerned about price we don’t carry products with laughable price increases yet at the same time, our growth tags, we haven’t experienced our customers’ this year is coming from the higher dollar “sticker shock” to any great extent. It would amount per transaction. Yes, we see some price not surprise me to learn that men and women resistance and hear some customer complaints would begin to realize that paying $4,000 but in a multi-brand store like ours, customers for a sweater or $12,000 for a jacket was not can usually find what they’re looking for at justifiable or even smart, despite the “status” several different price levels, even from top of the brand. The appeal of genuine quality in luxury makers. the price/value ratio will eventually dawn on people, and truly better things, which are our JOHN COFFMAN, COFFMAN’S, stock in trade, will always find a market.

GREENVILLE, NC: No question there’s been a dramatic increase in RUSH WILSON III, RUSH WILSON LTD, apparel prices along with prices on everything GREENVILLE, SC else in the country. Where it starts to concern We’re very cognizant of prices when we buy, so me is when we cross certain price thresholds: we aren’t seeing a lot of push back. In clothing, shirts going from $275 to $325, clothing from we select fabrics, patterns and colors first, then $1799/$1895 to $2295/$2395. I don’t see prices we consider price. We do this for each vendor. coming down anytime soon, if ever.

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The price increase issue has hit a sore spot with me as the biggest culprit is my largest vendor.

They seem emboldened by the increase in business in their own stores, giving them the attitude that if we want their brand, we’ll have to pay the price. A sneaker that sold for $650 or cashmere overshirt for $1795 has gone up 40 percent in 2.5 years “because they can.” On top of that, we’ve been given budget expectations broken down by category. Fortunately, with prices accelerating, we can meet their requests with minimal unit increases, but without knowing if the collection will answer our needs for the season. I believe it’s even more important than ever to cover the abandoned price zones, as we’ve seen significant growth in those tiers.

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OUTERWEAR

CHANGE IN THE AIR

FRESH NEW LOOKS ARE TAKING OVER THE OUTERWEAR SCENE.

BY JOHN RUSSEL JONES WHILE WALKING NEAR MANHATTAN’S

Financial District recently, I noticed a definite change in the air re: outerwear. The quarterzips, down vests, and puffer coats have not disappeared completely, but there’s clearly a movement toward fashion. And different versions of fashion at that.

Most notably, there’s a strong retro trend happening, with guys wearing longer, dressier, tweedier coats that bring the 1980s to mind.

Picture Mickey Rourke in 9 1/2 Weeks, wearing a DB, peak-lapel coat that dropped below the knees, over a cashmere crewneck and dress pants. Or John Cusack in Say Anything (hoisting a boom box over his head) wearing a slouchy wide-lapel trench coat over a graphic T-shirt and sweats. An opposite trend is rooted in technology and hybrid models: coats offering season-spanning attributes like removable hoods, linings, and even heating systems.

A third trend is toward lighter weight product: the infamous chore coat, the “shacket,” the CPO, these hybrid sportswear items sell well in early fall and serve to extend the selling season.

Fortunately for retailers, fashion innovation in the fall ’24 market should curtail the need for November/December markdowns come next winter. Says designer Todd Snyder, “We’ve seen tremendous growth in outerwear this year and plan to see it continue in 2024. Our customer is reacting to buy-now, wear-now styles, unlike seasons past when stocking up on cold-weather outerwear early in the season was more common. Looking ahead, we’re reacting to this shift by adding pieces like shorter bomber and chore styles, more layering pieces, and true cold-weather topcoats and novelty coats. We’ve learned that our customer buys seasonal outerwear when the weather changes. We began testing the buy-now, wear-now approach this fall by introducing key styles like The Walking Jacket,

Clockwise: John Cusack in the 1980s romance Say Anything. Outerwear from Todd Snyder. Effective advertising on MetroNorth from Norwegian Wool.

a classic field coat that resonated during the long transitional season. While down-filled styles continue to downtrend, our topcoat and novelty outerwear business in luxe fabrics is showing huge growth in all markets.”

At Norwegian Wool, Michael Berkowitz has had much success with his innovative marketing tactics, including billboards on MetroNorth trains coming into Grand Central Station, a few steps from his Madison Avenue store/showroom. “What’s selling best is classic looks in luxury fabrics. Our customers want quality, versatility, and performance. Our average pricepoint is $1595, an opening price in luxury stores. A top seller this season is our cashmere blend blazer with neck bib that readily disappears into the blazer for outdoor to indoor use. It retails for $1095 and started selling early in the season. Our customers love its multi-function design.”

Renoir is a brand known primarily for its value-priced tailored clothing and strong in-

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OUTERWEAR stock programs (around 80,000 suits are kept in-stock in a Los Angeles warehouse). But according to national sales manager Patrick Chan, the company recently added a few basic wool outerwear pieces to the mix. “We introduced a car coat and a shorter jacket with bib that wholesaled for $85. These coats did well enough that we’ve expanded the offering to include a range of retro plaids and herringbones, also with removable bib. These styles perfectly reflect the vintage trend and also work for suburban guys who never go outside, moving from house to garage to car, basically living in a climate-controlled bubble.

These guys just need a lightweight layer short enough to wear comfortably while driving.”

Caroline Massel at Gruner & Co. points out that fall ’23 outerwear business started slowly, with one of the warmest fall seasons on record. “Fortunately, temperatures dropped in December and business picked up nicely. It helps that with the casualization of America, the definition of outerwear has expanded to include many hybrid sportswear pieces.

Our Hart Schaffner Marx outerwear is noted for its luxury fabrics, classic menswear patterns, attention to detail (undercollars, linings, pockets!) and exceptional service.

Our Gruner1949 collection incorporates knit sportscoats that can be worn year-round.”

At Thermostyles, founder Jack Wu offers the lightweight seasonal outerwear that guys need in October and November, and also some luxurious tech solutions for when the mercury drops. He divested himself of his interest in Rainforest in order to pursue his expertise in luxury, a wise move as the market moves towards investment dressing.

Key clients include Saks, Patrick James, and Darien Sport; suggested retails range from $195 to $750, with hybrid sportswear pieces at $145. Many of the styles have detachable bibs, collars, hoods, and in a nod to sustainability, all material in the fall 2024 collection is 100% recycled, much of it using down alternatives like eco-down, which keeps heat close to the body. Wu keeps the focus on simple, modern, urban styles like a sophisticated 3-in-1 CEO jacket with leather trim, a military style carcoat with lots of pockets and interesting buttons, and a touch of red on zipper pulls.

Of course, what put Thermostyles on the map is its optional interior heating system with a three-setting control panel for 100, 110, or 120 degree heat settings. The technology is an option on many styles, adding $200 to the retail price. Apparently, many believe that’s a small price to pay for extra warmth.

Similarly, Black Dog Showroom is repping a new brand out of Italy called Palto. Using lightweight, water-resistant fine wools and cashmere rendered in sophisticated topcoat, peacoat and field coat models, each coat is a modular system that can include button off quilted vests and zip-off protective hoods.

These allow the wearer to adapt the coat to his needs depending on the temperature. Black Dog’s Katie Liu points out that the vests can be bought in tonal or contrast colors, allowing retailers to create their own style variations.

Another Black Dog outerwear brand, Nobis, also projects a strong emphasis on function for fall ‘24. “Most brands are emphasizing transitional outerwear with a focus on layerable, lightweight pieces,” says Nobis’s Robin Yates.

Clockwise from top left: An elegant look from Gruner & Co. Technically speaking at Nobis (in white), Palto (in black), and Thermostyles.

“It’s crucial for designers to speak to modularity, layering, and multi-functionality, to perform in changing weather conditions.”

Massel at Gruner explains the impact of technology in both the design and production stages. “We’ve incorporated skiwear technology into our core topcoats. Our rainwear has protective properties: wicking, waterproofing, antimicrobial and breathability. Almost everything has stretch for comfort. And lots of details. We even incorporate reflective tape on

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FALL 2023 • COPPLEY.COM

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OUTERWEAR

Clockwise from top: Cockpit USA saw a boost in styles inspired by 2022’s Top Gun: Maverick. Triple F.A.T. Goose’s puffer embodies sustainability. Schott NYC sees a boost in brown, pullup leather.

a tailored raincoat to provide safety. It’s a small detail but much appreciated by customers who walk in the evening.”

For the hard-core puffer fan, James Chung at Triple F.A.T. Goose says that “short puffers have been outperforming other styles in men’s, while longer length parkas have done particularly well on the women’s side. Across the board, mixed media styles have been doing quite well for us. (Editor’s note: a trend we’re seeing in various categories.)

“Our customers are seeking not just highquality outerwear, but also products that align with their values,” says Chung. “Sustainability seems to be on the minds of more customers, and because of this, many have been asking about the origins of our materials. They’re happy to

hear that for several seasons, we’re exclusively using recycled down and recycled performance fabrics, a move that reflects our commitment to the environment. As we continue to innovate, Triple F.A.T. Goose products embody not only our legacy of quality, but also our commitment to produce eco-conscious fashion. We’ve taken early steps in this direction and hope to make significant strides in future seasons.”

At Schott NYC, best known for its iconic motorcycle jackets, Don King is seeing customers gravitate to leathers that show unique character “in feel and in coloration.

Our new waxy pullup cowhide leather collection and hairy rough-out suedes have been well received. We continue to develop styles with a more supple and softer hand using

mid to lighter weight leathers. Supple leathers make the garment easy to wear and medium weight soft skins are more versatile. Our bestselling leather styles have been cafe racers and waist-length, mechanic-inspired models that are timeless and ageless. The brown family is gaining attention for its sophistication and color variation as it breaks in. And due to climate changes and milder winters, our retailers are selling leathers for a longer period into winter, often from August through February. Many west coast and southern stores are carrying leather year-round.”

“For us, sheepskin coats of all sorts are working, but then we offer the biggest selection of authentic military and aviation-styled jackets made in the USA,” says Jacky Clyman at Cockpit,

long known for its faithful reproductions of military styles with a real cult following. “We’re moving a lot of the business towards direct-toconsumer. This is something we’ve been forced to do as department stores are impossible to deal with. Many big stores no longer have merchants making decisions, but rather accountants who look at sell throughs often impacted by staff never bringing goods to the floor. Too often, product get lost in their storage!” Clyman is a strong believer in moving deliveries closer to season. “The concept of making a huge amount of samples twice a year and having to deliver so far in advance of the season makes no sense.

Customers are no longer looking to make purchases that far in advance, so the current timing merely adds to excessive markdowns.”

Nobis’s Yates maintains that retailers are looking to tighten their assortments for fall 24, focusing on brands that bring the most value to their customers. “Both buyers and consumers are buying more consciously. The entire outerwear industry needs to re-evaluate seasonal timing, pushing back launches to correspond with when consumers shop.

Instead of clearing seasonal product in midseason sales, why not wait until end-season sales? Later deliveries should encourage full-price selling through November and December, with clearance sales between February and March.”

However Schott’s King is not promoting later deliveries. “We’ve found that retailers are more willing to try new categories early. Before, they were buying narrow and deep but now they’re testing the breadth of the line. One of our strengths is that we maintain inventory year-round, allowing our retail partners to try new items with a low upfront commitment.

We’ve also seen that they’re pre-booking early rather than holding open-to-buy for in-season purchasing. Our retailers have confidence in the quality of our leather outerwear; we’ve seen great success with our independent and specialty stores expanding into lifestyle categories like sweaters and flannels, as well as new lightweight textile outerwear. Our waxed canvas, corduroy, flight satin and duck canvas jackets have seen the most growth as we move into 2024.”

A final note to retailers: Bring in new fashion early, saving the more classic heavierweight coats and jackets for later in the season.

In this way, retailers can alleviate the need for markdowns just when cold weather should be inspiring regular-price purchasing on freshlooking goods.

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MENSWEAR WITH A TWIST For retail sales enquiries and area distribution appointments, please contact Frank on: +353 87 2574767 or frank@r2.amsterdam

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MILESTONES

The Boyds Boys: Alex, Andrew and Kent Gushner.

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BOYDS.

FOR LIFE.

IN THE STORE’S 85TH YEAR, A FOURTH GENERATION FACES NEW CHALLENGES AND NEW OPPORTUNITIES. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN KENT GUSHNER IS PROUDLY showing me around his

magnificent downtown Philadelphia store, renovated right before Covid and totally reconfigured since my last visit. Asked why they moved things around, he explains that to ensure their future, they needed to play up different categories. “We moved women’s apparel, handbags and women’s shoes to the main floor.

Designer and evening bags have become standout businesses. Men’s sportswear and furnishings are featured on the second floor; sportswear had been strong since Covid but is somewhat less strong now since closets are filled with casual. Tailored clothing (always and still our backbone) has had a great early fall on the third floor. Also on three: gentlemen’s luxury sportswear, a growing business as we transition men to elevated casual work attire.

“With these changes, we’ve made it clear that we’re entrenched in the women’s business. We project women’s to reach half of our total volume within three years. We weren’t making that statement previously, no matter what we did on the third floor. And while a small percentage of our male customers ask why we moved their men’s store, tailored business is still showing increases. I’m enthused but not deceived.”

Boyds’ new brand strategy (Boyds. For Life.) combines elements of its 85-year heritage (exceptional customer service, free alterations, spacious top floor tailor shop with natural lighting, tailoring outposts on all selling floors, their own parking) with forays into the future (a fast growing e-comm business, new marketing techniques including billboards and social media videos, and new in-store events like this year’s holiday marketplace, at which non-competing vendors showcase their giftable wares on the fourth floor).

Clearly, it’s Boyds’ creativity and willingness to test new concepts (a highly-rated restaurant, a leased fine jewelry department, a glossy store magazine, a popup store in Ardmore) that keep customers curious and coming back.

THE BOYDS’ BOYS

Kent lists his biggest challenges since the pandemic as a fall-off in foot traffic (“dollar volume remains strong but on fewer transactions.”) and recruiting and retaining new staff. That said, he agrees that his smartest move of late was putting trust in his two sons: Alex (at the store since 2014 after working at Zegna) and Andrew (at Boyds since 2020 after working at

“WHEN YOU TEACH YOUR SON, YOU TEACH YOUR SON’S SON.” —THE TALMUD

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MILESTONES

“WE MIGHT HAVE BEEN BORN INTO IT, BUT WE HAVE TO EARN IT EVERY DAY.” —ALEX AND ANDREW GUSHNER

Women’s footwear, front and center.

Bergdorf). As young as they are, both boys have the intuition, the work ethic and their father’s blessing to initiate change. Alex, 33, does most of the men’s buying; Andrew, 26, handles marketing and some women’s.

Sitting down with Gen 4, I was truly impressed by their knowledge, candor, and composure. “Tailored clothing is still our most important business but it’s not what it was and might not be again,” confides Alex.

“Fortunately, we still have a strong clothing culture in Philadelphia, supported by all the law firms that have reopened downtown. But while suit business has been healthy postpandemic, we realized we had to grow elevated sportswear to inspire a new way of dressing.

Designer sportswear is not clicking the way it had been, so we’ve invested in several (mostly Italian) artisanal brands (Baldassari, Mandelli, Fioroni, Pescarolo), which are performing really well. These were not household names when we brought them in, but they’ve acquired a strong following. We built this business gradually so that our sales associates grew to believe in it; they now suggest these labels as upscale alternatives to customers no longer wearing suits to the office.”

Alex intimates that prices from certain luxury brands have gotten out of control.

“Even those customers who can afford it don’t want to spend the way they once did. To buy a basic cashmere quarter zip for $1350 that was

$995 last year when a beautiful version from a lesser-known Italian brand is $695 makes no sense to some customers. Add to that the fact that most designer brands are selling direct to consumer, and it’s clear why we’ve decided to focus on the artisanal brands that offer beautiful product, quality make, and tremendous value.” (Editor’s note: Boyds still has a huge business in Zegna, Canali, Cucinelli, etc.)

When asked what skills they learned from their prior work experience, both boys stress listening, communicating, and being part of a team. “I was on the e-commerce team at Bergdorf for a year,” says Andrew. “I had intended to stay five years but along came

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Covid. At first, my main job was to get samples from vendor showrooms to Bergdorf ’s photo studio, but I soon picked up some helpful tricks, like leveraging vendor imagery to speed up activation. I was exposed to enough technology to realize that our Boyds’ website was lagging years behind. We’re now set up for the future. Working with Jenna, our new marketing manager, it took the two of us about a year to get it off the ground. It was largely about bandwidth.”

Alex jumps in here to sing his brother’s praises. “He’s being too modest. If it weren’t for Andrew, we wouldn’t have an e-comm business. He is a great thinker, a good listener, extremely deliberate and strategic. He’s not only modernized our e-commerce, but he’s rebranded our entire store, taking our image in a whole new direction. We expect to get a lot of mileage out of ‘Boyds. For Life.’”

For his part, Andrew appreciates how truly welcoming Alex was when he first joined the business. “Alex is an extremely talented merchant, always finding new brands that resonate with our core customers. The best part of working together is that we’re also best friends outside of work! (‘Put your phone away, Alex.’ ‘No, I need to record you saying nice things about me; our parents won’t believe it.’)”

And speaking of parents, Alex recalls how

surprised he was when he first spent time in the market and vendors would ask if he was Kent’s son. “Not everyone gets my dad,” Alex confides. “His demeanor is so serious, he dresses seriously, he takes his business seriously, so people don’t always see his quick wit and dry sense of humor. Yes, he can be tough when he needs to be, but he’s never rude or overbearing. Ask him anything and he’ll tell you exactly what he really thinks, a trait clearly inherited from his dad. He values honesty and can smell insincerity a mile away.”

What would the boys change about their dad if they could? They reply in unison: “He needs to take more time off!” And what’s the best advice he’s given them? Says Andrew, “There are lots of eyes on you, so always be positive role models. Keep the bar high.

Whatever you ask of your employees, make sure you do yourselves.”

The conversation moves to what young shoppers are looking for these days. “In tailored clothing, it’s about fit and price,” says Alex.

“If they’re coming to us, they want fit, which still means slim. We open at $995 with Munro

FAST FACTS ON BOYDS Founded: 1938 Downtown Store: 70,000 sq ft

building; 30,000 selling space Suburban Store (Wayne PA): 10,000 sq ft Total # employees: 110 # full-time tailors: 30 Percent women’s: 35% and growing Percent e-commerce: 5% and growing % tailored clothing that’s MTM: 8% New marketing slogan: Boyds. For Life.

suits, $695 for TailoRed sport coats. Also, young guys are loving the idea of custom: we do well with Trussini at under $2000. They also come to Boyds for tuxedos, and when they do, they’ve already shopped around: Suit Supply, Indochino…. Our sellers explain that with those sources, they pay for alterations on product that’s unlikely to hold up. Once we gain their trust, it’s Boyds. For Life.”

Above, The A Team: Ken, Bill, Colin, Joe and Alex.

Above, right, Loyal customers for 62 years: Bruce and Tawana

“WERE I TO RETIRE, I’D LIKELY BE DIVORCED.” —KENT GUSHNER

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MILESTONES love to set the whole cycle back, postponing deliveries to be more in tune with the selling season. It’s totally illogical to take in heavy fall goods when it’s hot outside, only to compete with markdowns in the majors when the weather finally turns. I suggest we as an industry totally re-set the cycle.”

In conclusion, Alex sums up what is most likely Boyds’ secret sauce. “It’s not the product: while beautiful, very little is proprietary;

What in the men’s clothing market is Alex personally loving these days? He responds without hesitation: the color brown.

“Few guys have brown in their closets. It’s been shades of blue and black for so many years now. It’s time to promote a new color.”

On the topic of trunk shows and special events, Andrew notes that success depends on various factors.

“The less frequent, the more successful. An activation or Clockwise, above: The new suburban Boyds features sunlight, talented tailors, vendor appearances (shown here, build-out, like the shop we Richard Bennaim from Paris with his fabulous Richard Grand recently built for a Thom cashmeres) and much elevated casual sportswear.

Browne trunk show, works well. Always helpful: appearances by a name with a little help from the Philadelphia designer or well-loved company rep (Franco Eagles, includes fundraising, fashion shows, from Bontoni! Kat from Brioni!). Alex adds mentorships, and part-time jobs. Says that events should have a well-defined reason Andrew, “The charity component is not for being. Prestigious brands, new brands to drive traffic but to represent our values, (John Lobb footwear), reps bringing in extra to show who we are as a company. It’s an product (lots of special sport coats at a recent essential part of being a family business.”

Another discussion revolves around Isaia trunk show), a portion of sales donated to a local charity, all these help elevate the event.” vendor partnerships and market timing.

Editor’s note: Philanthropy has always “We have excellent vendor partners and few been an intrinsic part of Boyds’ company problems, or we wouldn’t be celebrating an values. Its recipient for the next three years 85th anniversary,” notes Alex. “My biggest is Big Brothers, Big Sisters. The game plan, complaint is that deliveries are too early. I’d

“OF COURSE, THE MIDEAST WAR WILL IMPACT LUXURY BUSINESS: EVEN BIG SPENDERS WILL FEEL GUILTY OVERINDULGING.” —KENT GUSHNER

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LIKE FAMILY!

As much as I loved perusing the beautiful aspirational product throughout the store (I’m still dreaming about the red-soled Louboutin boots that caught my eye when first entering the store), the best part of my visit was meeting Boyds’ terrific team of sellers, tailors, and office staff.

Chatting with so many employees who showed so much passion for their work was heartwarming. Here, a few of the talented people I met, many of them Boyds’ employees for decades.

Catching up with Brian (a 50year Boyds’ veteran!) in the shoe department, I learned that sneaker business was slowing down a bit with an increasing focus on loafers, boots, fine leather/suede uppers on casual lug soles. Shoe lovers will flip over Boyds’ eclectic mix of luxury and streetwear brands, everything from Bontoni’s $1195 penny loafers to Alexander McQueen’s $790 sneakers, from Zegna’s $950 triple stitch sneakers to Magnanni’s $450 Hanson boots, from Comme des Garcons’ $150 low top sneakers to Santoni’s $1495 Oxford Brogues and Louboutin’s $895 patent loafers.

(Brian’s secret to his longevity at Boyds: “Keep doing what you love; don’t ever retire!”)

In the tailor shop, managed by Felix Aloian, I met many talented cutters and sewers; some had been custom tailors in their home countries and can construct an entire suit from shoulder to cuff.

Sergio was recently photographed for a huge Boyds.

For Life. billboard that just went up on the expressway. Now a virtual celebrity, Sergio would rather be working than signing autographs.

Also on the tailored clothing floor, I met Bruce and Tawana, Boyds’ customers for 62 years.

The couple lives in NYC but when it comes to buying menswear, it’s always a trip to Philadelphia to shop at Boyds. “Nowhere else will do,” Bruce explains, without prompting. “Boyds is an amazing store.”

“WE’VE TIGHTENED UP THE NUMBER OF BRANDS, BUYING FEWER BUT GOING DEEPER.” —ALEX GUSHNER

“TAILORED CLOTHING REMAINS STRONG; I’M ENTHUSED BUT NOT DECEIVED.” —KENT GUSHNER most luxury men’s stores carry essentially the same stuff. (Although as buyers, Andrew and I challenge ourselves to predict trends and create directional product.) Instead, it’s the in-store experience, the emotional connection between

customers and sales associates/tailors, the way the owners treat their employees, all of this makes the magic that drives people to the store.”

LOOKING AHEAD…

On the new suburban store in Wayne, a suburb about a 45-minute drive from Boyds’ downtown flagship, Kent explains that after testing a pop-up shop in Suburban Square during the pandemic, they soon realized the benefits of a store in the suburbs. “We’d noticed an atrophy among customers who no longer came downtown to shop, be it for safety concerns or shifts to hybrid work. So we opened a permanent 10,000 square foot store in Wayne on September 22, and already, it’s doing well. Not only is it attracting customers who stopped shopping downtown, but it’s also attracting new shoppers. It’s half men’s and half women’s, more focused on casual than the main store. As we continue to manage this second location, we’re planning a third within the next three years.”

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Dylan wears a Gloverall coat, Lucky Brand pants and shirt, Howlin’ sweater, Schott hat, and L.L. Bean boots.

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On left: Aaron wears a Universal Works coat and pants, L.L. Bean sweater, DIFF Eyewear glasses and Rakoh boots.

On right: Mason wears a Todd Snyder coat, C.P. Company vest, Vince sweater, Universal Works pants and Hunter boots.

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Dylan wears a Barbour coat, Hanro t-shirt, Toast sweater, Neuw pants, Vince hat, Corgi socks and Quoddy shoes.

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On left: Dylan wears a Schott jacket, Toast sweater, Universal Works pants, Red Wing boots.

Vintage belt and buckle stylist's own. On right: Mason wears a G.H. Bass jacket and pants, Coach sweater and boots, Maria Black ring, Red Wing belt, and L.L. Bean backpack.

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Aaron wears a Tommy Hilfiger coat, Schott shirt, Drake’s tie, Universal Works pants, Tartan Blanket Co. scarf, Howlin’ hat, Brooks Brothers sunglasses, Corgi socks and G.H. Bass shoes.

Belt stylist’s own.

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Mason wears a Coach coat, Todd Snyder x Champion sweatshirt and shorts, American Trench socks, and Converse sneakers.

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Dylan wears a Save The Duck jacket, Vince sweater, and L.L. Bean pants.

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Dylan wears a Paisley & Gray coat and hat, Hamilton shirt, Royal & Awesome pants, Vince scarf, Corgi socks and G.H. Bass shoes.

Opposite page, on left: Mason wears a Save the Duck jacket, Todd Snyder x Champion sweat shorts. Middle: Aaron wears a Mackintosh coat and hat. On right: Dylan wears a Private White V.C. coat and Edmmond Studios hat.

Photography by Jeffrey Rose; styling

by Michael Macko, grooming by Wesley O’Meara/Honey Artists; models: Aaron Turner/New York Model Management, Dylan Vincent/ Marilyn Agency, and Mason McKenrick/Next Management; photography assistant: Ben Bitton; styling & production assistant: Kyd Kacani.

MR Magazine would like to thank the Gushner family and staff of Boyds in Philadelphia for not only inspiring us to photograph this story in their historic city, but also being gracious enough to host us in their beautiful store while we did.

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AWARDS

JULY 2024, NYC

ADVERTISING & SPONSORSHIP INFORMATION: LIZETTE CHIN, PUBLISHER: Lizette.Chin@wainscotmedia.com CHARLES GARONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Charles.Garone@wainscotmedia.com

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MARKET

It’s up to you, New York, New York!

WHAT HAPPENED TO THE NEW YORK MENSWEAR MARKET? THE CANCELLATION of January’s Project New York event and the fledgling Society show were mere symptoms of change that’s been coming for a while. How is it that the center of the United States fashion industry is no longer the thriving menswear market it once was, kicking off the nation’s trade show season? Although the pandemic spurred things on, it certainly wasn’t the cause.

Says Peregrine Showroom’s Jennie Arnau, “Once people learned to work virtually, traffic declined. When the trade shows tried to come back, it was hard to convince a brand to spend $5,000 or more to come here, and it snowballed from there.”

Don Wechsler, of New York’s Best Menswear Show, returning to the Park Central Hotel in January, points out that during Covid, Dallas was the only operating venue. New York still had lingering restrictions, which made it less desirable, so buying habits changed. But New York is, after all, New York, and its attraction is not just the shows, but the showrooms, restaurants, and entertainment.”

Douglas Michael from menswear brand CRWTH is gathering some contemporary brands for a market week event called Empire.

As he points out, “The Chicago Collective was the first to make a comeback (post-pandemic).

That quickly changed the dynamic for buyers and sellers from that point on. Chicago was always a less expensive show and sits in the

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center of the country. From then on, it became the number one show for both exhibitors and buyers. Buyers are coming back to NY, but more for the multi-brand showrooms. Jennie Arnau took the initiative to start United Men’s Fashion Association (UMFA), gathering multi-brand showrooms, tradeshows, and PR companies to boost NYC.” Fellow UMFA pioneer Katie Liu notes, “We’re seeing more buyers return each season.

You can’t beat the great energy, even if traffic can get annoying. (This season we’re putting together a subway map specific to the popular brand/showroom routes.) Retailers who buy luxury, high quality and designer brands, or emerging and contemporary brands, should all come to New York.”

Retailers have mixed opinions on the viability of restoring New York market week.

Robby Miller from Miller Bros in Atlanta was in New York for pre-market in December and is trying not to come back in January. “The Chicago Collective under one roof makes it just too easy. In NYC, no matter how I schedule appointments, I find myself spending hours in endless taxis going uptown/downtown, then up and down again. The Javits show was dying anyway and most of the downtown shows are too trendy for our market. But since not all brands are ready in December, returning to New York might be inevitable.”

In contrast, David Rubenstein, from

Rubensteins New Orleans, is planning to be at New York market in January for the first time in a while. “Many Italian brands are showing there, and the timing is right for Southern stores. We need more transitional weights that are hard to find in December. The revival of a New York market depends on how many Italian brands lead the way.”

Says BJ Stringham at UWM in Salt Lake City, “We don’t cover the New York market because Chicago has it all, plus it’s closer and more convenient. We no longer carry the big luxury labels that we once did. I know many merchants love being wined and dined in NYC and Milan by the big luxury brands but that’s about ego. We finally decided if the brands we helped build are selling direct to consumer, we really don’t need them.”

Says Murry Penner from M Penner in Houston, “The buying season is becoming more fragmented and can be a strain on specialty stores that don’t have numerous buyers, dmm’s and gmm’s on corporate budgets. The expense is not just actual cost but also missed selling days. Right now, we shop in October, December, January, April, June and July. Crazy!”

The UMFA, officially incorporated as notfor-profit, is working to promote the New York market and encourage showrooms and trade shows to work together on unified market dates. Since all things fashion are cyclical, we’re betting on a New York City comeback!

PHOTO BY TATIANA FET

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN AND JOHN RUSSEL JONES

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R E TA I L R A D A R

DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENTS

IT’S BEEN A WHILE since we’ve done a roundup of contemporary stores,

but we’re happy to report we’ve found some that should definitely be on your retail radar. To come up with the list we divided the country at the Mississippi into East and West, then we excluded the major markets, and all the stores you already know. We also looked for retailers who had a point of view and who used it to present their assortments. Customer engagement and social media interaction were also important. Finally, we sought stores that carried labels that we have not heard of, because we love discovering new brands. If you think your store should be in the next roundup, please email us at john.jones@wainscotmedia.com or michael.macko@wainscotmedia.com

EAST COAST

BY MICHAEL MACKO

CITY WORKSHOP MEN’S SUPPLY CO. 104 BAKER STREET MAPLEWOOD, NJ 07040 (973) 577-2013 CITYWORKSHOPMSC.COM OWNERS: ROGER STEVENS & JOSEFINA RUIZ When did you open your store?

We opened City Workshop in 2015, and have relocated twice to larger locations.

Why open a new store?

We were tired of our corporate America jobs, and we were looking for what was next. We had a passion for shopping, specifically for ourselves and that’s how we got to clothing. We knew we didn’t want to sell bespoke clothing, so we went with tried and true denim, a staple in folks’ wardrobes for over 100 years. But we wanted to take it even further with raw and selvedge denim from the USA, Japan, and other countries around the world.

How do you choose the brands you carry?

Denim is the core of our brands. We choose brands that have synergy with our denim

Top: City Workshop store owners and denim heads, Josefina Ruiz and Roger Stevens.

Above, and right: A look at some of the denim assortment and plaid shirts from City Workshop.

collection. This is when our own personal style comes into play. Meaning, it’s easy to throw on a flannel shirt with a pair of 21oz selvedge denim but I might change it up and throw on a cashmere sweater. That’s the way we have to curate because everyone is not into heavyweight denim. Many of our brands you won’t find locally. And they are usually independent, small brands like Freenote Cloth, Rogue Territory, and 3Sixteen.

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How do you find/discover new brands?

These brands are part of the denim world subculture.

During Covid it was online, as everything was, looking at websites, especially from Japan as well as Instagram, basically going online at night and going down the fashion rabbit holes. Now that Covid is over, I am excited to start going to shows again: the ones I find most successful for me are in NYC and Paris, shows like Welcome Edition and Man/ Woman.

How do you find/discover new brands?

The usual suspects: trade shows, showrooms, and lots of online research. We get recommendations from our customers. Sometimes we might see someone walking down the street and what they’re wearing might fit into our wheelhouse and we’ll ask what brand they’re wearing.

What is your best-selling category?

Denim. Our denim is from all over the world and the brands we carry are not available everywhere.

How do you identify your store?

It’s a denim shop with classic American heritage styles.

Do you do more business in-store or online?

We do more business in-store because we are situated in the center of our community, which generates lots of foot traffic. We love the fact that people can touch, feel, and try on clothes.

It’s very tactile. We are also a 30-minute train ride from NYC to Maplewood, so a lot of people travel to the shop to see it in person. For us, online business is gravy, but we show it the same love as our brick and mortar customers.

How involved are you and your store in the local community?

We are very involved with our community.

We’ve mentored, spoken at business clubs, and hosted young people on how to pursue their entrepreneurial dreams. We give to many of the local causes. We participate in local activities and events that have a give back component for schools and nonprofits.

What is the biggest challenge and the advantages of being an independent retailer?

Cash flow is always a challenge especially when embarking on new endeavors. We have the mentality that there is no such thing as “set it and forget it.” Since we are in a walkable community, we have people who stop by every other day and the question is always “What’s new?” We always have to be on our “A” game when curating so that our customers don’t get bored. It’s a gift and curse, but our return customer rate is high.

The advantages:

We didn’t anticipate meeting so many different people from customers to creators, town officials and other business owners from all over the world. People from all walks of life come into our

Above: Whimsical merchandising at Vestis Clothing Ltd. Right: Phil Romagni of Vestis in Pittsburgh’s Lawrenceville neighborhood.

Below right: More clever merchandising.

shop. We’re in a town of creatives, which is really cool. When you love what you do, you are not really working.

Is there anything else you’d like to add?

We were able to open a women’s shop in 2022. We designed our second varsity jacket from Golden Bear. We are thinking about a T-shirt line and possibly some athleisure wear too. The future’s looking bright and we are happily walking towards it with open minds.

VESTIS CLOTHING, LTD. 4415 BUTLER STREET PITTSBURGH, PA 15201 (412) 784-1112 VESTISPGH.COM OWNER: PHIL ROMAGNI When did you open your store?

September 15th, 2015, eight and a half years ago.

Why open a new store?

I had worked in pharmaceutical sales and was looking for a change, I had some money saved up and decided to open a store.

How do you choose the brands you carry?

I like to select brands that have style autonomy.

What is your best-selling category?

Shirts. The sizing is easier than pants, so they’re an easy purchase for most men.

How do you identify your store?

Vintage-inspired contemporary. I like things that would not have looked out of place 80 years ago.

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R E TA I L R A D A R Do you do more business in-store or online?

By far in store. 90% of the business online is necessary, but I would say I spend 50% of my time buying product, 40% on selling and customer service and 10% on everything else, including the website.

How involved are you and your store in the local community?

Very. I am in the nascent Lawrenceville neighborhood of Pittsburgh, and we have an organization of the local businesses called the Lawrenceville Corporation; we organize neighborhood events.

What is the biggest advantage of being an independent retailer?

Being nimble enough to switch things up when I want and to take risks with the assortment by introducing new brands to the market.

PLAIN GOODS 17 EAST SHORE ROAD NEW PRESTON, CT 06777 (860) 868-0280 PLAIN-GOODS.COM OWNERS: MICHAEL DEPERNO & ANDREW FRY When did you open your store?

We opened in a charming 700 square foot cottage in 2015. Four years later, we relocated across the street to the historic Pavilion Hall, which we restored, and opened the doors in May of 2019.

Why open a new store?

Plain Goods was the outcome of Michael DePerno’s background in retail and interior design and my history working in PR/Marketing for fashion brands. We share an appreciation for a similar aesthetic and saw an opportunity in the market for what is now Plain Goods.

How do you choose the brands you carry?

Thoughtfully. We are very considered as to what lines we bring into Plain Goods. Brand philosophy, craftsmanship, design and fabrication are important aspects of what we consider. How and where these goods are being produced is equally important from environmental and ethical perspectives.

How do you find/discover new brands?

We’re always researching new lines, makers and designers. We attend fashion trade fairs and showrooms around the world including NYC, Paris, Copenhagen, Milan, and Florence.

Recommendations from friends and customers.

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Top: The impeccably curated interior of Plain Goods. Above: An assortment of English transferwear. Right: Michael DePerno, left, and Andrew Fry, proprietors of Plain Goods”

Traveling always offers a perfect opportunity to discover new lines.

What is your best-selling category?

Clothing is our lead category. Our Plain Goods label knitwear, footwear and tailored clothing is made in Scotland, Italy, Japan, and Portugal.

These items are designed in-house and are unique to Plain Goods. Our curated collections of Antique & Vintage furnishings are another vibrant sector of our business. Many interior designers come to us as a resource for their projects.

How do you identify your store?

We consider what we do as timeless.

Do you do more business in-store or online?

Our online business is robust, but in-store undeniably engages all of the senses and invokes a highly personal customer experience.

How involved are you and your store in the local community?

We participate in numerous local charities and encourage local businesses and nonprofits to share their literature in the foyer of the building.

We are also a great resource for local referrals of all kinds.

What is the biggest challenge and the advantages of being an independent retailer?

The biggest challenge is managing such a large operation, while the advantages are endless. But having the freedom to continually express our creative vision is top of the list.

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TABOR 421 PROVIDENCE ROAD CHARLOTTE, NORTH CAROLINA 28207 (980) 207-4860 TABORCLT.COM OWNER: LAURA VINROOT POOLE & PERRY POOLE When did you open your store?

2015 Why open a new store?

We are lucky to be the younger brother of Capitol and Poole Shop, our sister stores here in Charlotte, as well as a new Capitol out at Brentwood Country Mart (as of 2019). With the support of our women’s business, a men’s shop was a logical next step to provide the same service and discovery of designers that our women’s team has done for over 25 years.

How do you choose the brands you carry?

Our main rubric is quality and beauty. We often are driven by making sure that price point matches the quality and take pride in keeping the point of view timeless. I want a 24-year-old and a 74-year-old to buy the same things. It should feel new and exciting to both.

How do you find/discover new brands?

We are in the fortunate position to have tons of designers and brands reach out to us constantly and we use our past experiences and travels to be a good guide for what we bring into the shop. We won’t make a decision based purely on trend or sell through reports.

We want to love the brands, believe in the story, and support those designers who that put value and beauty first.

What is your best-selling category?

Men know the importance of a good shirt, and sport shirting is overall our best seller. Our collaboration with American shirtmaker Gitman Brothers is up there in the tally marks, as is Sunspel for the more polo or T-shirt driven guys.

How do you identify your store?

As most probably feel, we don’t love to limit our description to one style, but we often refer to what we do as “American Sportswear,” but with many interpretations of that, whether it be Italian, French, Danish, or Japanese designers. We carry suits, we carry raw denim, we have elements of Ivy and also street/function. We aren’t fashion driven but do have some “fashion brands.” At the same time, you can always buy Italian toothpaste and British shoes: Not because they are fancy, but because they are the best (in our opinion).

Top: An interior view of Tabor. Above left: The chic owner of Tabor, Laura Vinroot Poole.

Right: An assortment merchandised by lifestyle.

Do you do more business in-store or online?

In Store. We are lucky in that way. We get to truly know our customer and build our online community usually through a store experience first. But to be clear, we take all comers, no matter how they find us.

How involved are you and your store in the local community?

We are situated in one of Charlotte’s oldest neighborhoods in a 1920s bungalow house.

From placement, architecture, and hospitality, we are very much a part of the community.

With a coffee shop in the front-of-house, as well as a neighboring art gallery, we hope to be a hub for those who appreciate what we are all about and educate those who are interested in something more.

What is the biggest challenge and the advantages of being an independent retailer?

Hiring good people is always a challenge but we have been lucky to have had many strong teams in our years of business.

Our advantage is being able to represent ourselves daily with our community and clients. We get to host every person who comes to us and serve them to the best of our ability while celebrating the designers we have added to our family.

Is there anything else you’d like to add?

We are looking forward to celebrating 10 years in business soon and we are re-launching TABOR Tailored, our in-house suiting program, in Spring/Summer 2024.

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R E TA I L R A D A R

WEST COAST

BY JOHN RUSSEL JONES

JAXEN GREY 226 N WASHINGTON AVE MINNEAPOLIS, MN 55401 (612) 399-9973 JAXENGRAY.COM OWNER: MICHAEL DRUSKIN When did you open your store?

We opened in August of 2019.

Why open a new store?

I have been in retail my whole life. After taking a pause for a few years I was inspired by so many brands that I was able to discover online but not in store, that I decided to create a concept for guys focusing on brands that are harder to find or not yet in brick and mortar.

How do you choose the brands you carry?

At first, we mostly focused on brands that were primarily direct-to-consumer. Today we look for passion, perseverance, and purpose. We seek out brands that are really dedicated to creating great products that are both wearable and approachable.

How do you find/discover new brands?

It’s a combination of listening to what customers are asking for, checking out other really passionate retailers, attending trade shows in different areas and having a generally curious personality.

What is your best-selling category?

That can really vary seasonally. In fall it’s pants, in spring it’s short sleeve woven shirts.

How do you do you identify your store?

We are that place in the Venn Diagram where the circles intersect. We believe we bring the best of each category for our customer at an aspirational price range.

Do you do more business in-store or online?

Our online business is just a year old, and we recently switched to the Shopify platform, which is really exciting, but brick and mortar will always be the heart of our business.

How involved are you and your store in the local community?

We strive to be part of our communities and we contribute to charities throughout the year on top of donating 5% of profits each year to a local charity.

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Michael Druskin keeping things focused at Jaxen Grey.

What is the biggest challenge and the advantages of being an independent retailer?

The challenge is competing with the brands themselves, which operate at a much higher margin. The advantage is that we can be nimbler, we have relationships with our customers, and we can curate our product mix.

Anything else you would like to add?

We took a risk in 2019, focusing on brands that did not want to do wholesale business and tipping

the first few to sell us, which was not easy. What is cool is to see that so many of these brands today not only do wholesale but are looking to expand it and see the value in creating a more omni-channel experience for the stores and the customers. We have broken down some barriers in the last few years and are energized to keep it going and continue to be a leader in the marketplace.

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SHOP BOSWELL 729 SE MORRISON STREET PORTLAND, OR 97214 OWNER: BROOKES BOSWELL When did you open your store?

Shop Boswell opened in 2016 as a womenswear and lifestyle store in Portland, Oregon. We added a small menswear section in 2018/19 and it’s grown steadily ever since.

Why open a new store?

I have a business designing and making handblocked hats under the line Brookes Boswell.

I was already working in the industry and interacting with small boutique owners and apparel designers. I thought that I could add a unique perspective to the retail scene in Portland.

How do you choose the brands you carry?

Part of it is knowing our customers and following trends, but most of my decisions are instinctive. A brand has to have a certain blend of quality, and wearability while also being unique. It’s hard to get that mix just right and when I see it, I know it.

How do you find/discover new brands?

It depends. When I first opened the store, I reached out to friends and folks I knew who

A mix of men’s and womens’ fashions (and hats, of course) keeps things sunny and bright at Shop Boswell (above, right and lower left).

were designers. As the store has grown and our assortment has expanded, it’s been a mix of my own discovery (mostly through social media) or designers reaching out to me directly. I usually go into each buying season with a plan and already know who I’m going to work with that season.

What is your best-selling category?

Our own line of hats, then jackets, pants, and dresses. Our collections sell across gender lines, so we don’t track menswear separately from womenswear.

How do you identify your store?

That’s a hard question to answer. I try to stay true to our vision of quality/ wearability/uniqueness and I’m willing to buy from designers of any category, but we mostly focus on small, independent designers.

Do you do more business in-store or online?

About 50/50.

How involved are you and your store in the local community?

I’m an introverted store owner, so we’re not overly involved in the community. We try to do a few events every year, host designers in the shop and do pop-ups.

What is the biggest challenge and the advantages of being an independent retailer?

Right now, it’s trying to not compete with the big e-comm retailers. We just can’t match their markdown schedules and discounting. Folks have to support the small shops if they want to see us stick around.

The advantage of being small is that we’re flexible. I can redirect our buying budget to different categories as well as redirect my attention to different areas of the business as needed.

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ADVERTISE WITH US

IN PRINT + DIGITAL

UPCOMING ISSUES:

» JULY 2024 » AUGUST 2024 » NOVEMBER 2024 FOR MORE DETAILS, PLEASE CONTACT:

LIZETTE CHIN PUBLISHER: Lizette.Chin@wainscotmedia.com CHARLES GARONE ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Charles.Garone@wainscotmedia.com

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ADVERTORIAL

PA R T N E R S H I P

A Sport Coat to Ring

THE REGISTER!

THE BRIT & BLUE SIGNATURE SPORT COAT IS THE FINEST DUCK CLOTH JACKET IN THE WORLD. IT MELDS BESPOKE-INSPIRED ELEGANCE WITH THE BLUE COLLAR WORK ETHIC OF AMERICAN MEN AND WOMEN.

BY MR STUDIO EVERY SO OFTEN, a menswear item comes along that breaks the mold. MR’s vote for ‘Iconic Item 2024’ is Brit & Blue’s Signature Jacket, a versatile blend of luxury and work ethic that’s flying out of stores that feature it.

Here, we chat with Brit & Blue founder Eric Adams for some insights.

HOW DID YOU COME TO CREATE THIS ICONIC SPORT COAT?

About 10 years ago, my wife and I opened a Kentucky-based studio focused on made-tomeasure clothing. As part of this, I was often traveling the region with tape measure in hand, meeting with clients, many of whom own blue collar companies. A number of these individuals lamented that they needed some kind of jacket that could take them from work site reviews to board meetings. So I started working on this elusive hybrid, modeling it on British hacking jackets but using duck cloth fabric trimmed with suede. It turned out better than I expected; I often wore it myself to test others’ reactions to it.

Customers would say “I don’t know exactly what that is you’re wearing but I want one…” We now make the Signature Jacket in many colors and trims, both off-the-rack and custom, and for both men and women. We also offer a custom swatch box to retailers experienced in design and fitting.

ARE MEN’S STORES SELLING THE WOMEN’S COATS?

Absolutely. A few of our men’s retailers have come to realize that the women who accompany men into their shops fall in love with Brit & Blue, too!

ARE THERE PLANS TO EXPAND THE COLLECTION?

While I love the idea of doing just one item extremely well, I realize that to grow, we need to offer more product types. So we’re exploring that now, sticking with our madein-America sourcing (a storied clothing factory in Rochester, an esteemed shirtmaker in Tennessee), which retailers say they want. The

RETAILER RAVES

Todd Howell at Coffmans: “This is

the working man’s blue blazer, versatile but with an aesthetic that says I’m not here just to look good. You either get it or you don’t but for those who do, no other coat conjures up such conversation. It’s in the simplicity and details that makes this coat come to life.

Like a baseball glove as you break it in, the real beauty and patina start to take shape and tell the story.”

William King, William King Clothiers:

If someone asked us to name the coolest and tastiest coat in the haberdashery, we would quickly say, “Brit & Blue.” The color, the canvas, the pick stitching, the hacking pockets, the ticket pocket, the buttons, and the fit are all spot on. To us, this is the perfect coat to wear with your favorite jeans. The Brit & Blue duck cloth sport coat gets as many compliments as anything in our store.”

problem is that to afford made-in-America factories, we currently can’t offer our retail partners more than keystone markup.

WHY IS THAT A PROBLEM?

Most stores are used to getting high initial markups from large international brands. But isn’t it better to support American industriousness and craft and get a 50 percent margin on a product that sells vs. a theoretical 65 percent margin on a product that languishes on the rack and ends up on sale at a 30 percent margin?

AS IT’S BEEN SAID, YOU CAN TAKE DOLLARS, NOT PERCENTAGES, TO THE BANK. DO YOU HAVE A FINAL MESSAGE FOR RETAILERS?

Yes. Although finely tailored American-made duck cloth sport coats might seem the antithesis of the soft, unstructured Italian styles now everywhere, that’s exactly why you should offer them. For their distinctive style, comfort, value, and a definite dose of casual cool, I hope retailers give Brit & Blue a try.

For more info: eric@britandblue.com or check out their website www.britandblue.com

MR MAGAZINE

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SOCIAL MEDIA

TikTok TIME

THE SOCIAL MEDIA APP FOCUSED ON SHORT VIDEOS DROPS UP-TO-THE MINUTE FASHION INTELLIGENCE RIGHT INTO YOUR HAND.

BY JOHN RUSSEL JONES

THE BIG STORES have fashion direction teams that set the pace for the coming season: They subscribe to forecasting services, scour the aisles of Pitti Uomo, watch models walk down countless runways, and scrutinize the streets of the world’s most fashionable urban centers, all in the name of identifying the next big trend. Ugh! Who has the time?

Independents are too busy training new salespeople, balancing the books, traveling

to trade shows, and vacuuming the store to keep that kind of schedule! What’s a retailer to do?

If there’s one lesson we’ve learned (confirmed by some of the entrepreneurs in our Retail Radar story, page 44), it’s that there’s plenty of trend information available right at the end of our arms in that smart phone we take everywhere. Lately we’re spending our time online checking out the

menswear influencers on TikTok: The posts are short, (usually) engaging, and offer up-tothe minute, valuable fashion and shopping advice from people who are being watched by thousands of followers, some of whom may be your customers. Just like watching those runway shows or international street scenes, fashion looks best when it’s on a body and in motion. In fact, we think social media is the modern retailer’s fashion director!

HERE ARE JUST A FEW TO GET YOU STARTED, BUT LET US KNOW WHO YOU FOLLOW, TOO!

DAN CLEMT @DANCLEMT 30.9K FOLLOWERS

Also known as Mr. Pastel, Dan Clemt is originally from Côte d’Ivoire, but currently splits his time between Paris and Bordeaux.

His colorful style is all the inspiration we need to break out of our usual neutral zone palette.

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SIMON GOLDMAN @SIMON.GOLD 267.1K FOLLOWERS

This Chicago native not only brings his content creation skills to the platform, he’s also a trained fashion designer.

We particularly like his quick men’s suit buying guide, which breaks down affordable options, but starts by encouraging guys to work with a good tailor.

WISDOM KAYE @WISDM8 9.3M FOLLOWERS

Well, if you’re gonna take anybody’s fashion wisdom, it might as well be from a guy whose name is Wisdom, and who also happens to be a global fashion model represented

by IMG. Even Vogue has declared the Texan the “BestDressed Guy on TikTok.”

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SOCIAL MEDIA

RYAN WINTER @YUNG_FONTINA 309.9K FOLLOWERS

Does Ryan look familiar? Sorry, we couldn’t resist including MR’s February 2023 cover boy. We were impressed by how put together he was for our shoot, even with an early morning call time. Now we’re enjoying his “Good morning. Let’s get ready,” approach to styling himself. (The mop of curly hair doesn’t hurt, either.)

TIM DESSAINT @TIMDESSAINT 2.2M FOLLOWERS

A U.K.-based content creator, Dessaint has an easy, straightforward approach that feels like getting advice from your better-dressed best friend. We were particularly impressed with his post that was inspired by iconic car movies like Mad Max, Taxi Driver, and The Italian Job.

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12/15/23 3:15 PM

ANNOUNCING F/W 24 NEW YORK MEN’S MARKET WEEK

JANUARY 21-27, 2024

FOR INDIVIDUAL SHOWROOM DATES VISIT:

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LAST LOOK

AW/24

FALL FASHION MR is proud to introduce our first seasonal trend recap. We’ve

designed this to be either cut or torn out and brought to market with you. We’ve put what we forecast as key colors, trends and silhouettes for the upcoming AW/24 season, as well as space

for you to write down whatever else you are seeking for your particular store. We hope this serves as a helpful reminder and proves to be useful. Please let us know: we would love the feedback. —MICHAEL MACKO

The Palette

PANTONE 15-1607 Pale Mauve

PANTONE 19-1763 Racing Red

PANTONE 16-1453 Exotic Orange

PANTONE 14-0952 Spicy Mustard

PANTONE 18-0622 Olive Drab

PANTONE 17-4919 Teal

PANTONE 19-3832 Navy Blue

PANTONE 18-3518 Patrician Purple

PANTONE 19-0205 Black Oyster

Key Items/Details Raglan Sleeve Varsity Jacket Double Breasted Corduroy Shacket Boxy Sweater Vest Work Jacket Wide/Pleated Pant Rugby Shirt Knit Neckerchief Balaclava Fair Isle Alpaca & Brushed Shetland Duffle Coat

Key Silhouettes

CUT THIS PAGE OUT AND TAKE IT INTO MARKET WITH YOU AS AN EASY REFERENCE

PANTONE 12-0720 Mellow Yellow

#

SHUTTERSTOCK

Notes:

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