MR Magazine January 2025

BE THE CHANGE!

RETAILERS’ CRYSTAL BALL

REINVENTING TAILORED CLOTHING

MARKET MADNESS

NYC, DALLAS

ON THE COVER: Tommy Gray of Soul Artist Mangement. Coat: Michael Kors, Rugby Shirt: Le Alfré, Sweater (around neck) Shaggy Dog by

J. Press, Pants: J. Crew, Sneakers: Golden Goose, Donegal Tweed Baseball Cap: 47 X J. Crew, Watch: Armitron.

Above: Jose David of Soul Artist Management. Coat: Bugatchi, Trousers: Hiltl, Sweater and Shirt: J. Crew, Leisure Tote: Epperson Mountaineering, Boutonnière: Filth Mart.

Photography by Marko Kalfa; Styling by Michael Macko; Grooming: Linsey Marmorato, Honey Artists

EDITORIAL

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN KAREN.ALBERG@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM

MANAGING EDITOR JOHN RUSSEL JONES JOHN.JONES@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM

WEB & CONTENT EDITOR JULIAN RANDALL JULIAN.RANDALL@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM

ART DIRECTOR MIKE STEVEN FRANCOIS MIKESTEVEN.FRANCOIS@GMAIL.COM

CONTRIBUTING CREATIVE DIRECTORS NANCY CAMPBELL, TREVETT MCCANDLISS MCANDCSTUDIO@GMAIL.COM

ADVERTISING

GROUP PUBLISHER LIZETTE CHIN LIZETTE.CHIN@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER CHARLES GARONE CHARLES.GARONE@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM

PRODUCTION

PRODUCTION MANAGERS LAURIE GUPTILL, FERN MESHULAM, KATHY WENZLER

MARKETING & PRODUCTION SPECIALIST CATHERINE ROSARIO

OFFICE MANAGER MARIA MARTUCCI

ACCOUNTING KASIE CARLETON, URSZULA JANECZKO, BRUCE LIBERMAN

ADVISORY BOARD

TINA ANIVERSARIO NORDSTROM

KARL-EDWIN GUERRE NO CHASER/GUERRISMS

KATIE LIU & MICHAEL KREIMAN BLACK DOG 8 SHOWROOM

STEVE PRUITT BLACKS RETAIL

WAINSCOT MEDIA

CHAIRMAN CARROLL V. DOWDEN SAM GLASER STITCHED PRESIDENT & CEO MARK DOWDEN

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER/VICE PRESIDENT STEVEN RESNICK

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS LIZETTE CHIN, RITA GUARNA ALAN LEINEN HALLS

VICE PRESIDENTS NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY,

NOELLE HEFFERNAN, MARIA REGAN

2025 RESOLUTIONS

TRY, TRY AGAIN...

It’s a new year, and as we make resolutions we’re unlikely to keep, how about a few easy ones? Here’s my 2025 checklist; feel free to steal any of these you like and ignore the ones you don’t. And forgive me if you’ve read some of them before: even after sharing New Year’s resolutions in the past 35 January issues of MR, I’m still struggling to keep at least a few of them.

1) Dress better! We’re in an industry where fashion matters. Dress like you believe it.

2) Stay positive. Stop watching the news 24/7, and remember that ours is a fun business!

3) Be kind. Everyone you pass on the street is dealing with something. Offer a smile. Keep a few folded bills in your coat pocket so you don’t have to flounder through your bag if you pass someone in need.

4) Get to know new retailers and emerging brands. Yes. it’s easier to stick with the usual suspects, but there’s a universe out there of great stores and exciting product that you might benefit from seeing. (We at MR will continue to showcase our new finds in our pages and online.)

5) Hand-written notes have tremendous power. Yes, it’s easier to text a quick thank you but the impact of a thoughtful note lives on. (Says one who hasn’t written a personal note in ages… ☹☹)

6) Allow yourself the things that bring you pleasure, even if they’re not doctor-approved. Okay, you probably shouldn’t drink wine with every meal or start each day with crumb cake and almond croissants, but denying yourself everything that makes you happy is no way to live. (Says one who eats crumb cake for breakfast 6 days a week; don’t ask about the wine…)

7) Admit mistakes and apologize when you screw up. The lessons learned from bad decisions are far more valuable than the appearance of perfection.

8) Cherish good friends. We never know how long we’ll have them, or them us. Let them know now how you feel about them.

9) Laugh as intensely and as often as you can. Not only does laughter nourish the soul, but it’s one of few indulgences that’s calorie-free and costs nothing.

10) Take more risks in your assortment planning, especially in today’s precarious world when it’s impossible to predict what will happen next. Will there be another pandemic? Will the stock market flounder? Will the looser, less constructed men’s clothing trends catch on? Will global warming continue to impact shopping patterns? Where will menswear stores find trained tailors? Will the proposed tariffs cause excessive inflation? Will online shopping overtake in-store? Will businesses ever again enforce dress codes? So many questions, so few answers. So why not trust your gut and bring in some new product that’s notably different from what you usually show. As your industry magazine, we promise to do the same. The one thing none of us can afford to be these days is boring.

Best wishes to all our readers for a peaceful and profitable 2025. And thanks for staying with us for the past 35 years!

Karen, Lizette, Charles, John, and the whole MR Team

“ALLOW YOURSELF THE THINGS THAT BRING YOU PLEASURE, EVEN IF THEY’RE NOT DOCTOR-APPROVED.”

BY ROSE

PHOTO

CALLAHAN

FASHION FUTURES

RETAIL’S NEW DATA-DRIVEN ECONOMY

By Craig Crawford

With Christmas behind us, what have we learned? How long has it taken to review holiday season successes and challenges? Are you still in post festive season review, shaking your head in your hands, wondering what has happened? Or, as a digitally led retailer, are you instead celebrating what you learned during the season and what you did to take advantage of successes and course-correct challenges in real time?

The Evolution of Data: What? Why? Will? What To Do?

Where Are You on This Journey?

Most retailers are firmly rooted in the Descriptive and Diagnostic stages of data analysis. But for today’s digitally savvy retailer, data is more than transactional and logistical. Prediction and Prescriptive analytics drive business momentum and growth. In fact, retailers

who leverage “Big Data” could increase operating margins by as much as 60%. As organizations continue to improve and ensure that data is consistent, trustworthy, and accurately defined, Big Data will continue to foster better decisions and actions by business users.

Data Is the New Currency

Everything we do creates data. According to IBM, we create 2.5 quintillion bytes of data daily. Since 2013, when mobile search overtook browser search, people create 90% of the world’s data every two years. In other words, it took us 2,013 years to create 10% of the world’s data, and from 2023 to 2025, we will make another 90%. If data is your friend, Big Data is your best friend. So, what is Big Data? Simply put, it’s extremely large data sets that may be analyzed computationally to review patterns, trends, and associations, especially relating to human behavior and interactions.

This data can be structured, but it can also be unstructured. Examples include: Visual/Image, Location, Behavioral, Contextual, Internet of Things (IoT), Biometric (Fingerprint, Body Measurements, Voice, Skin Color, Undertone, Hairstyle, Face Shape), Weather, Geographical, Political, Economic.

Big Data is collected and stored in cloud-based Data Lakes in its raw/native format. The Data Lake can also contain the retailer’s legacy data. Data is then extracted (usually via code) to a data warehouse when required for analysis.

“By applying data science (since 1960), machine learning (since 2000)—preparing computers to spot patterns, learn, and predict from big data—and deep learning methods (since 2012) to data flows to validate, recognize, predict, and generate patterns, we garner new insights and opportunities,” explains Jelle Stienstra, Strategy Director Pttrns.ai, a Netherlands-based technology company that uses Artificial Intelligence (AI) to accelerate digital personalization for retailers and brands.

“All of this data can be overwhelming to retailers,” explains Mark Williams, Senior Director & Head of Retail, Hospitality & Travel EMEA at Hitachi Digital Services. “Unless you have a generously funded and advanced IT department, retailers need a partner to help create, implement, and drive a strategy for success.”

According to Williams, 65% of retailers base decisions on in-store performance, with only 35% considering an omnichannel strategy.

Digital Is Discovery

Whether performing a search, opening an app, visiting a website, or watching a video, people turn to their mobile devices to get answers or take action. Mobile devices integrate—not blur—the physical with the digital. People pick up their smartphones because they want to: Know, go, do, or buy

For retailers, this is an opportunity to meet customers at their moment of intent, when decisions are being made, or when preferences are being shaped.

90% of all sales are influenced by a digital touchpoint. Brand websites play an important role for 69% of purchasers. In fact, over 80% of customers have been online at least two days before entering a shop, and 40% won’t go into a store unless they can go online first. 50% of all digital transactions occur on mobile devices.

“Now we can design recommender systems where, instead of going with just the brand attributes, now AI can pick up on what content the user is browsing in,” explains Jessica Graves, the founder of Sefleuria, a New York-based interaction design consultancy. “This user can be completely anonymous, and you don’t need to have all their data. You just need to know what they’re doing,” she says.

Data Driven Customer Acquisition = Engagement and Loyalty

According to consumer psychologist Kate Nightingale, founder of London-based Humanising Brands, a behavioral strategy, design, and innovation agency, consumers have four basic needs—to feel safe, to belong, to be seen, and to be heard.

“Consumers are human, not digital,” she explains. “Digital data is a treasure trove of information about your customers’ psychology, motivations, and attitudes. The wealth of learning can be considerably increased with behavioral sciences allowing you to personalize beyond relevancy and into inspiring the future lives of your

customers. The benefits include higher loyalty, better relationships, and increased brand equity.”

Digital enables meaningful relationships. Connected devices create opportunities. Successful retailers in the Digital Age think beyond E-commerce and marketing. They go behind creating more detailed views of consumers and their transactions. Instead, they manage relationships at scale as a key new approach to engagement and loyalty by using all available information about an individual to offer a tailored product, solution, or service.

“Successful retailers are moving from an instrumental perspective to a holistic view of the consumer,” explains Stienstra.“It will likely not take long until consumers allow retailers to have a look at their social media in turn for better offers.”

According to Bain & Company, “Fundamentally, customers don’t want choice. They just want exactly what they want.”

The Future of Media Optimization

Imagine your own Trend Bot aimed at menswear that measures everything granularly: Silhouettes, Colors, Fabrics, E-Commerce, Grooming and Wellness Trends, Fashion Trends, Runway Shows, Market Share, Consumer Reviews, Social Media, Sales, Returns CRM Data. It could also keep track of what’s being said globally and regionally about your store in reviews, social media, and the press. Your marketing team can then create content that is super creative, hyper-personalized, authentic, entertaining, and relevant to drive traffic to your store.

The Future of Business Optimization for Demand & Sales Forecasting

Imagine your own AI that measures Sales, Weather, GDP Index (World Economy), and Amazon Trends against Campaign and Pricing Impact. How much could 1-2 points improve your revenue?

Nothing Happens Without People

Digital leaders enable transparency, visibility, and data management across the enterprise, ensuring the organization owns and controls its data. Creating a culture of participation and real-time collaboration is vital to drive integration across marketing, sales, and customer experience; supply chains and operations; products and services; and new business models.“If you’ve not started collecting data beyond what your legacy systems provide, now is the time to begin,” Williams advises. Sienstra agrees. “Successful analytics require lots of relevant data and a human perspective.”

Craig Crawford is a two time Tabbie award winning author and founderprenuer of Crawford IT, (https:// crawfordit.com) a London-based consulting firm specializing in the digital transformation of brands; Twitter @getamobilelife; Instagram @getamobilelife; +44 07834584785

FROM HIS CLOTHES THE MAN SEPARATING

By Beth Bernstein

When I was young and dating, and my mother would ask how the date went, I’d describe what the guy was wearing— and why his ‘outfit’ would definitely preclude a second date. As a fashion stylist and writer, I gave no second chances to guys wearing too-tight jeans or Bermuda shorts at a somewhat fancy cocktail bar. My mom would admonish me: “You can change the clothes but not the man; if you find a good one, give the poor guy another shot.”

Older and wiser now, I completely understand what she meant. If you’re lucky enough to find a guy who loves, respects, and is there for you as a romantic partner and/or best friend, does it really matter what he wears? Eventually, he’ll give up his socks with holes and maybe even his favorite team sweatshirt, a garment so threadbare you can barely make out which team it once celebrated. Eventually, he might even take your not-so-subtle hints about more fashionable wardrobe alternatives.

These days, most of the men I date aspire to dress like a pop star, be it Bruno Mars, Chris Martin, or Bruce Springsteen, depending on their age. Worse still are the guys who dress like Brad Pitt in his ‘colorful’ outfits – all perfectly styled for Brad but clearly wrong for the finance guy or environmentalist lawyer you might be dating.

So, how do you separate the guy from his clothes? As my mom tried to tell me, don’t make snap judgments. Always go on the second date, and if he’s wearing puka shells and a Hawaiian shirt, then ask if he’s planning to jet you to a tropical island for dinner. If he laughs at

himself and your humor works, score a point or two for him. Another option: suggest a fun shopping day! Okay, fun isn’t usually in a guy’s vocabulary when it comes to clothes shopping, but it can happen. It’s all about the delivery or what you promise him in return.

While shopping, suggest a well-cut sport coat in navy, black, or grey, a solid or patterned woven shirt, and a longsleeve crew, V-neck, or quarter zip in fine gauge cotton or cashmere. If he’s dead set on jeans, remind him that after a certain age, a relaxed fit is more flattering and more comfortable than jeans glued to the body, except if worn by The Boss himself. (Yes, this Jersey Girl is a big Springsteen fan!)

Although fashion from the 1960s and ’70s (exuding an anti-establishment or disco vibe) is very much in style these days, looking like a hippie or like you stepped out of Saturday Night Fever is best reserved for those who weren’t around to wear these looks when they were first in style.

As for the guy who loves Hawaiian shirts, invite him for a luaustyle dinner, wear a lei and flower in your hair, and try and get to know the man beneath the clothes. (My mom is surely smiling from heaven….)

Beth Bernstein is a freelance writer specializing in fine jewelry and contemporary culture.

THE REIMAGINED DALLAS MEN’S SHOW

Experience the Reimagined Men’s Show this January, featuring a new venue for temporary exhibitors, three days of inspiring events, and legendary Texas hospitality. Dallas features the only opportunity to shop new categories at overlapping shows, including the WESA International Western/English Apparel & Equipment Market and Women’s Apparel & Accessories market.

JANUARY 25 – 27, 2025

Preview Day: January 24, 2025 – 12 – 6 PM

A MILLION GOODS THING

By John Russel Jones

OWNERS: DREW KAUFMANN AND MATT REYER

Many a menswear store keeps a fully functioning bar at the ready to keep customers in that happy shopping zone, but how many incorporate libations right into their product mix? Million Goods in Brooklyn’s Greenpoint neighborhood is built on the triple threat of contemporary menswear, organic wine, and old-school vinyl.

The 600-square-foot store opened in May 2024, with an assortment of easy, effortless clothes from brands like Études Studio, Nicholas Dailey, Sunflower, and Margaret Howell (The duo prefers to shop in Paris rather than the domestic markets or trade shows). The store also features lifestyle goods, including ceramics, fragrances, books, and audio.

Kaufmann says, “We were thinking about something that Ssense or Net-A-Porter can’t do, something the internet hasn’t disrupted. I thought about how, as a kid, I’d go to the local skate or streetwear store and just hang out, so I wanted to create a place where I’d want to hang out now. We landed on the hospitality component almost immediately. I also wanted it to feel like something unique that New York didn’t have. Initially, we considered incorporating saké into the mix, but thought it was too hard of a sell. The response to HiFi—listening to records on a major sound system—was great. People who seemed to be into this type of music and clothing also seemed to be into natural wine, so we saw this Venn diagram form. We thought that if we could be authentic, stay in our lane, and ensure everything we do appeals to this specific person, we could succeed.”

Reyer brings an ecommerce background to the partnership, and although there is an element of that for the business, “It’s not necessarily something we want to do. It makes so much more sense

to come to the space and touch, feel, and try on the clothing and get physical with the space, to meet people. It’s part of the concept of the store.”

Kaufmann adds, “It’s part of how we present the brand and offers something that resonates with people even if they aren’t in New York.”

For the wine selection, the store focuses on small growers and “low-intervention wines (organic wine fermented without additives)” from regions such as Savoy, Jura, and Mosel.

The space has a custom sound system to make any audiophile jealous, developed by Jon Perelly at Sloped Systems, who also created systems for some of the neighborhood’s bars. Custom speakers were inspired by Augspurger Speakers of the 1970s, meant to evoke the luxurious sound found in major label studios from the period.

All we can say is “Cheers!” to a new concept in retail.

MILLION GOODS

88 FRANKLIN STREET

BROOKLYN, NY 11222 (929) 833-1790

MILLION-GOODS.COM

OWNERS: DREW KAUFMANN AND MATT REYER

THE MART, CHICAGO FLOORS 4 | 7

NOW ON 2 FLOORS

SATURDAY PREVIEW DAY: 12:00 PM - 6:00PM

SUNDAY: 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM

MONDAY: 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM

TUESDAY: 8:00 AM - 3:00 PM

SPONSORED BY:

OPENING NIGHT PARTY: SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2025 6:00 PM - 8:00 PM

The Chicago Collective is the Premier Menswear show in North America. Now on 2 floors at THE MART, Chicago Collective hosts the top brands and retailers from around the world. Shop the best brands, attend the iconic opening night party, enjoy exciting events and amenities.

IN INDEPENDENT RETAIL SUCCESSION PLANNING

By Terresa Zimmerman

Before I started my apparel business, I tried to buy a retail store that I loved in a mountain town. Any time we were down the road at a favorite restaurant, my husband would disappear for a minute and come back with a small gift from that store. I started conversations with the owner about buying her store. We shared financials and started talking about terms and pricing. Then she stopped answering her phone. Dozens of calls, letters, emails, and two months later, I found she’d closed her doors and shut down the business. The puzzle I pieced together was two-fold: her financials weren’t ready, and it was too emotional for her to have someone else own it. She did what she felt she had to do, but for the rest of us, the hole she left on that prime corner was felt for years. She was important. Her store was important.

When retailers gather, the conversation is mostly about running the business day to day, planning the next buy, merchandising, staffing, and all the things that make up the operations of a business. Succession comes up, but mostly, it hangs there as something to deal with later. But what happens to your store when you’re not there to run it or choose to move on to what’s next?

It’s not just about you. Your store plays a role in your community and its culture, and the relationships you and your store are vital to nurturing. What happens to your community if you just shut down?

There is value in what you’ve built. The relationships nurtured and the repeat business year over year take time and experience – they’re invaluable. Many of you report that 60-85% of your business is repeat. Consider the cost of customer acquisition for a new store and the time required to earn trust.

Think about legacy. Independent retail stories are full of history and richness. The trials range from face-offs with Mother Nature to world financial crises to just bad bouts of business decisions. You’ve learned lessons from those moments, now built into how you operate. You can’t recreate that richness overnight.

Promote investment opportunities. There are opportunities out there that no one knows about until we start talking about them. Cindy Purnell, owner of Post & Rail Men’s Shop in Ligonier, PA, says, “The store will be 50 years old this year. It’s a lot to be proud of. At 78, I want this store to continue. I’m hoping somebody picks up the phone and calls me or walks in the door and says, ‘I’m interested in owning this store.’ It’s hard to slow down and give succession the proactive attention it deserves. It means acknowledging there will be a next chapter…and then doing something about it.”

Work-to-own training. There are job training, apprenticeship and work-toown positions out there that can help you with staffing and provide aspiring business owners a way to learn and earn. Ron Brodeur, proprietor of Brodeur Carvell in Fort Myers, FL, talks about training someone into the business. “I’m willing to train someone who believes custom is the right business to go into. The market is growing. The right person would grow as the business grows.”

Friends and family. A family member might be interested. You don’t realize it because you haven’t talked about it. If you’re lucky, you’ve got an inspired family member who finds passion in your business and has already found you. Danny Reynolds, owner of Stephenson’s of Elkhart in Indiana, talks about working with his

daughter. “One of the most exciting things for me is that my daughter has joined the business. Unlike me, she knew from the time she was five years old that she wanted to do this. She has retail running through her veins and brains. I never did. Together, we make a pretty dangerous team.” Start talking about the opportunities and your intentions. Once you initiate the topic, someone might surprise you and step up.

Find an Expert. There are experts who can help you understand options, so you aren’t just waiting around for succession to solve itself. A good start is your CPA or financial planner.

Bottom line: We want more independent stores around. The personalized service. The relationship-based business. The community bonds and foundations. The benefits are resounding. Yes, planning for the next stages is hard, intentional work and preparation can take years. Who has the time? Where do I start? My kids aren’t interested. I don’t need to think about that yet. I’m not ready to retire or do something else. I’ve got time to figure it out.

Start talking about it now. Later is now.

Terresa Zimmerman is the host of Main Street Matters and founder of Wood Underwear.

CHICAGO

SUNDAY: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM

MONDAY: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM

TUESDAY: 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM

MARCH 2-4, 2025

THE MART, CHICAGO FLOOR 7

SUN/MON/TUE

OPENING NIGHT PARTY: SUNDAY, MARCH 2, 2025 6:00 PM - 8:00 PM THE WOMEN’S EDITION OF YOUR FAVORITE SHOW.

Our Women’s Edition features everything you love about Chicago Collective. Buyers can expect a focused offering of incredible brands, an easy to shop floor, a fun opening night party, special pop-up events and our popular buyer hotel reimbursement program.

ARE WE THERE YET? PONDERING THE FUTURE OF MENSWEAR.

By Nick Hilton

Maybe you have to be old, like me, to see it, but the perpetual pendulum of fit in menswear has begun to swing back from the apogee of small and tight, toward an easier and softer silhouette.

I’m seeing fuller legs, higher waistlines, wider shoulders–super comfortable clothing, which will peak in about 2040. You can see this trend as it’s progressed from the oversized Zoot Suits of the 1940s Jazz Age to the slim ’60s of Dior and Saint-Laurent, swinging back to the flowing lines of Armani and Donna Karan, and then to Thom Browne’s Pee-Wee Herman 21st century look. It happens in 20-year arcs, a steady series of oscillations, 40 years back and forth, from loose to tight and back. It’s not that a guy wakes up and thinks, “Man, these pants are too tight.” Rather it’s that his mate or a good salesperson will get him to buy that new, fuller trouser, shirt, or jacket. The first time he wears it he thinks, “Naaah.” Then, after a couple of weeks, he puts it on and thinks, “Yeah. This is cool.” And those leotard-tight jeans and man-boob knits finally make it to Goodwill. The change is usually accompanied by technological developments in textiles until a retailer and his clothes-conscious customers begin to realize a new style. Finally, we have something exciting, revolutionary even, to show and talk about in the store. It’s exhilarating.

So, there’s that. The refreshing breeze of something new sweeping into the men’s department, enlivening the discourse, even if the audience is not ready. Something different. What’s not different and does not appear to be changing is the great societal-retail divide. There are two markets, which I’ll call the functional and the aesthetic. Functional is the online or chain-store customer who doesn’t care much about clothing or personal service (perhaps because it’s so rare). For him, clothes are an unimportant necessity, and price is always an issue. The aesthetic market, where we dwell, is the realm of the affluent client who values the advice and opinion of a knowledgeable professional and is willing to pay for quality products and a better level of service. The most critical change in our world is our everyday challenge: seeking products deserving

of a sophisticated client’s aesthetic approval. Also, a change we must make every day is the constant development and refining of our skills in presentation, product knowledge, the mechanics of measuring, and precise fitting. Every day, our task is to earn and maintain the trust and confidence of this aesthetically oriented client. Learning to serve the connoisseur with expertise.

Overcoming Apathy

So how can the malaise of clothing-apathy be overcome? Can it be? As an industry, the most serious challenge we now face is changing the style mindset of men. In a world where mourners go to a funeral in untucked shirts and jeans, what can inspire respect for self or others? After all, aren’t we mostly preaching to the choir? Who can convince men that there are levels of appropriate dress above leaf-raking attire? Who would suggest a nice shirt and a shirt jacket or sweater instead of that sweatshirt with your kid’s college logo? Can we find and celebrate men who care about their appearance instead of billionaires in their frayed tee shirts and hoodies? Where is today’s version of John Molloy’s Dress for Success? How about if, for instance, The New York Times men’s section would show something one might actually wear? Okay, okay. I’ll stop whining. Other things that might affect the men’s clothing industry seem secondary to me. I don’t follow politics much. It’s too depressing. In the 1970s and ’80s, clothing manufacturers were hurt by 30 percent tariffs on fine worsteds from Italy, a protective tax dreamed up by Southern congressmen to protect a vanished U.S. textile industry. I guess someone’s considering that again. If protective tariffs are actually contemplated to protect the apparel industry in the U.S., someone should tell them that there’s no industry left to protect, to go back and start again, and turn their attention to something that matters. Want to restore manufacturing? Find someone who can train people and people who want to be trained. Maybe consider letting in more immigrants who will be happy to work at a sewing machine or in a fabric mill all day… Oh, right: never mind.

Continued on page 18

RAFFI FOREVER a way of life.

“DRESS WELL, HOW YOU LOOK IS HOW YOU FEEL.”

- Raffi

Who can say what will happen? Could anyone have predicted Covid 19? I figure the status quo will continue to be a gradual shift toward the functional market as virtual merchandising and popular media hype continue to “improve.” Certainly, online shopping will increase, and the principal victims of this will be chain stores and mall-oriented department stores. The likes of Nordstrom’s acknowledged “C” locations will follow Brooks Brothers and Lord & Taylor into oblivion. Why drive somewhere to get the same (or worse) service than you can get on your phone? By 2030, unless there’s some catastrophic change, not much will be different except the sensibility of fit. Clothing will be bigger. Some designer will capture the attention of the masses with a ridiculous extreme that will eventually lead to a break into the mainstream. Perhaps Balenciaga already has.

My Crystal Ball

To help with this, I took my crystal ball out of the cupboard where I put it in 2020, dusted it off to see if it still had some juju, turned the dial to 2030, and the setting to MEN’S CLOTHES. It hummed and sputtered a little, and then I thought I saw some tremors in it, but all I got was some French gibberish that sounded like “plus ça change plus c’est la même chose.” The rich were definitely richer, but I didn’t get the sense that education was improving. I saw the mid-priced elements of the clothing industry almost gone, replaced by price-oriented, automated shopping sites. Hype was supreme; influencers were in charge. I saw people buying super-expensive stuff based on whose label it had rather than how good it was. There were still a few connoisseurs looking for better things, but

“IF PROTECTIVE TARIFFS ARE ACTUALLY CONTEMPLATED TO PROTECT THE APPAREL INDUSTRY IN THE U.S., SOMEONE SHOULD TELL THEM THAT THERE’S NO INDUSTRY LEFT TO PROTECT.”

few folks could understand or explain what “better” even was. I saw the average guy continuing to look average, or maybe less-than-average. This was hard to make out; he was moving so fast, trying to make a living, but for sure, his pants were baggier, shoulders wider. Everybody was still bowing toward Milan and Paris. Odd, because none of the countries that make the clothing (Turkey, Romania, and especially China) had yet stood up to say, “Hey. We’re as good as Italy! And at better prices.” Nobody seemed interested in doing what Japan did: turning a menswear Datsun into an Infiniti. The phones of the future looked really cool, though.

Nick Hilton is a retailer and writer who runs Hiltons Princeton, founded in 1888.

12 THINGS TO SAFEGUARD YOUR RETAIL BUSINESS FROM

TARIFFS

By Marc Weiss

Independent retailers face the challenge of adapting to new economic policies. The potential increase in tariffs proposed by President-elect Donald Trump has stirred the waters for retailers and wholesalers alike, raising concerns about the impact such measures could have on demand and pricing strategies. With tariffs on Chinese imports anticipated to rise to as much as 60%, up from their current 20% to 25% rates, and expecting similar tariff increases for trade with other countries, retailers must brace themselves for substantial potential shifts in market dynamics.

Businesses must strategize and adapt proactively as we stand on the brink of these changes. This is why I have compiled a comprehensive guide to help retailers navigate these murky waters effectively. In the following, we will delve into actionable strategies to safeguard your retail business amidst tariff changes, emphasizing key areas of focus and action steps that will propel you toward sustainable growth.

Review your Data

Compare year-over-year sales, units sold, transactions, and average sales per customer. I was recently reviewing with a menswear retailer and found that over the last 12 months, revenue was up 13%, but units sold were down 1,000 units. Not surprising. When you think about it, a Zegna basic suit in 2020 was $2,500 at retail; today, it is more than $4,500. A Johnnie-O polo in 2020 was $8595 dollars; today it is $110-125. Zegna is up 96%, and the polo is up 30%. Your clients have accepted the higher prices even though some of you may be feeling some price resistance and are concerned about whether prices have reached their ceiling.

Pay Attention to Your Assortments

Selling fewer units (with potential price increases ahead) creates pressure on assortments. If you are too conservative in your open to buy, you could leave yourself understocked, meaning you inflict your own downturn.

Prioritize Depth Over Breadth

Avoid the pitfall of over-assorting your product lines. Instead, focus on buying in-depth with vendors that guarantee the highest return on investment (ROI). A streamlined assortment allows you to negotiate better terms and potentially better savings with your key vendors.

Strategize Price Points

If you have two price points, consider adding a third. If you have three, this could be the time to go up or down a notch. The temptation is to go downscale; however, I would argue going deeper into luxury is a better strategy. High-end customers are recession-proof and can tolerate price increases. You can move your customers and better differentiate value when you have multiple price points.

Optimism for 2025

I am optimistic about 2025. We have a healthy economy that I believe will continue to grow in the next year. The ability of the new administration to balance deficits, tax cuts, and tariffs will tell the tale. Not achieving that balance could be a foreboding signal for 2026. Tax cuts should motivate markets. Wealth generation, especially among millennials—those under 40—has grown by 50%, according to CNBC from a study by the Center for American Progress based on Federal Reserve data from 2019 through 2023. Some of this is fueled by a massive transfer of wealth from Baby Boomers to the next generation. There is also the Ozempic effect: Weight loss has caused many clients to build new wardrobes. As accessibility to the GLP-1 drug grows, there should be increased opportunity.

Focus on Selling Metrics: Increase Average Sales Per Transaction

When facing potential price hikes due to increased tariffs, one immediate strategy is raising the average sales per transaction. Encourage your staff to upsell and cross-sell to maintain higher transaction amounts per customer. For instance, increasing average sales can help absorb the repercussions of rising costs.

Invest in sales

education and coaching.

The greatest ROI you have is the productivity of your staff.

Expand Your Client Base

Growing your customer base is a prudent move against impending price increases. Transitioning new holiday shoppers into loyal repeat customers presents a significant opportunity. A larger customer base reduces your dependency on individual transactions and mitigates the impact of price sensitivity.

Maintain Your Initial Markups: Guard Your Margins

Do not be tempted to lower markups in hopes of maintaining demand. Price increases will affect the entire market, and competitive pricing should not come at the expense of your margins. Assess initial markups carefully to ensure sustained profitability.

Engage With Your Vendors

Stay in close contact with your key vendors to understand their responses to tariff changes and collaborate on strategies that benefit both parties.

Discover New Suppliers

Utilize new resources to diversify and strengthen your product offerings. Invest time in the market and be willing to take some risks. You know your clients: leverage your relationships with them to build on new looks, vendors, and categories.

Additionally, evaluate and consider adding new sources of domestic labor, including independent contractors that you can hire as needed to better support the rapidly shifting demands of your business.

Embracing Change as an Opportunity

While the prospect of increased tariffs may seem daunting, it also provides an opportunity to innovate and adapt. By proactively employing these strategies, you can take control of your business’s narrative rather than letting global events dictate your outcomes. With careful planning and execution, you can navigate through this period of change successfully.

Conclusion

The shifting tariff landscape demands vigilance, strategic adjustments, and a proactive mindset. You can face these challenges head-on by emphasizing the controllable aspects of your business operations and remaining flexible in your approach. Remember, change is not just an obstacle but an opportunity to redefine your business strategies and emerge even stronger.

Marc Weiss, co-founder, Management One,

can be reached at

marc@management-one.com

A Conversation with MARTIN BRADSHAW

Vice President, Ravazzolo USA

By Karen Alberg Grossman

Martin, I’d not seen the Ravazzolo collection in a while; I must say it looks terrific! How would you describe what makes it unique?

Our heritage includes nine generations of hand sewing expertise. We are a distinct alternative to corporate luxury brands in that we offer a less homogenized assortment. We encourage merchants to impart their stores’ DNA into their product mix. Most models and fabrics are interchangeable, so retailers can make up any sport coat in almost any fabric. What’s more, our fabric assortment is specifically merchandised for the North American market. We offer a sophisticated product mix with competitive pricing and viable margins. The fact that we’re family-owned, including our production, makes us nimble and able to react to specific retailer needs, be it branded, private label or MTM. In other words, we check a lot of boxes for today’s merchants.

Can you share some of the best-booked items for fall ’25 (although one needs to see it and feel it to truly appreciate it)?

Tailored clothing is our best-known skill set, with suits retailing from $3495 and jackets from $2495. That said, we’re cognizant of what today’s consumers want, so we offer a hybrid alternative to structured clothing and relaxed sportswear called “Dynamic Tailor.” It’s an assortment of jackets, shirt jackets and outerwear from $2295. Our luxury lifestyle offerings also include leather and suede, technical outerwear, item-driven wovens and sumptuous knitwear, all made in Italy of course!

Your distribution seems focused on upscale specialty stores: why is that?

We’ve been able to capture the attention of top independent stores by providing our partners with timely deliveries, a robust MTO/MTM program in multiple categories, stock in the U.S. and strong margins for profitability. It’s important for us to maintain clean distribution channels and not compete with our retail partners through over distribution or direct-to-consumer selling. So far, this is proving a successful strategy.

What do you find most challenging in today’s luxury market?

Time is the greatest luxury of all! With no clearly defined New York market any longer, it’s harder for retailers to seek out potential partners. Men’s fashion has always been cyclical: trends come and go, and change can happen quickly so smart retailers keep up with what’s new. Since it’s now incumbent upon the vendors to make themselves available at the buyers’ convenience, we decided to open a permanent showroom at 14 East 60th Street, suite 803. Once buyers afford us the time to see and experience our product, it speaks for itself!

For an appointment: martin.bradshaw@ravazzolo.com.

OUTERWEAR LANDSCAPE: NAVIGATING THE RAPIDLY CHANGING

Insights from Norwegian Wool and Moose Knuckles

By Eric Jennings

What happens when winter refuses to follow the rules? For outerwear brands, it means innovation is no longer optional—it’s survival. Unpredictable weather patterns, evolving consumer preferences, and increasing emphasis on sustainability have reshaped the landscape. To better understand the dynamics at play, I spoke with two distinct outerwear brands—Norwegian Wool, a timeless menswear brand known for its high-performance luxury, and Moose Knuckles, a high-end outerwear brand known for its bold counter-culture edge, functionality, and fashion-forward design. Both shared valuable insights into their strategies, product innovation, and guidance for buyers navigating this complex market.

The Impact of Unpredictable Weather Patterns

Both brands acknowledged a significant shift in the timing and intensity of cold weather. Recent reports reveal that the U.S. is experiencing a substantial reduction in snow cover, with a shift toward more winter precipitation falling as rain. Michael Berkowitz, CEO and Founder of Norwegian Wool, emphasized with a touch of irony, “I remember when I was a kid, Thanksgiving meant bundling up for the cold, and by March, we were starting to see signs of spring. It feels like Thanksgiving is mild these days, and the real cold doesn’t arrive until much later.” Despite the delay in colder weather, both brands noted that early deliveries in August and September remain essential for full-price selling. This underscores the need for outerwear brands to innovate and for buyers to rethink traditional purchasing cycles to match these new realities.

Jamee King, Vice President of Sales at Moose Knuckles, explained that the brand aims to lead discussions with retailers by focusing on tangible solutions to buyer’s concerns rather than letting fearbased narratives take control of the dialogue. Moose Knuckles has

adapted its strategy to ship lightweight products earlier, followed by heavier items in September, ensuring a steady flow of newness. She believes, “Retailers must set up their floors with conviction and a clear point of view; otherwise, they’re swimming in markdowns.”

Adapting to Consumer Demands: Function Meets Fashion Consumers increasingly seek versatility in their outerwear, desiring pieces that balance functionality and fashion. Berkowitz highlighted this trend: “It’s about breathability, flexibility, and versatility. Customers want one piece that does everything.” Norwegian Wool addresses this demand with tailored coats that combine wind-proof technology, lightweight European down, and innovative stretch technology for enhanced comfort. Additionally, the brand has reduced coat weight without compromising warmth to transition seamlessly between professional and casual settings.

For Moose Knuckles, “Our white space is delivering high-quality technical outerwear through a fashion lens,” King explained. “We’ve reimagined our iconic pieces, such as the bomber, 3Q, and parka, with modern fits, detachable details, and sustainable materials, ensuring greater comfort and adaptability while preserving warmth and durability.” King also emphasized the brand’s focus on yearround versatility, moving beyond heavyweight down filling to offer layering systems that allow customers to tailor their outerwear to individual needs. This strategy reflects Moose Knuckles’ commitment to blending technical performance with bold fashion sensibilities, creating a complete lifestyle that resonates with its customers.

Key Trends in Materials and Sustainability

The outerwear market continues grappling with sustainability concerns, particularly fur and goose-down filling. Berkowitz noted,

IMAGE COURTESY OF MOOSE KNUCKLES

IMAGE COURTESY OF NORWEGIAN WOOL

“We still use some fur trim, but we’re careful to source responsibly.” Norwegian Wool offers retailers options with or without fur, ensuring ethical sourcing from farm-raised animals as part of the food supply chain. The brand also emphasizes windproof technology inspired by ski wear, which allows its outerwear to remain lightweight while providing exceptional insulation. The brand believes this aligns with consumer demands for ethically crafted, multifunctional pieces that last for many years.

Moose Knuckles is taking significant steps toward sustainability. The brand has transitioned from fur to shearling in many styles and introduced recyclable nylon shells. “We’ve transitioned from using fur to premium shearling, reflecting our commitment to ethical luxury. Additionally, many of our shells are now crafted from recycled nylon, combining sustainability with the elevated quality and performance our customers expect,” King said. “Our head of sustainability ensures we’re ahead of retailer concerns and provides the solutions they need.” Buyers increasingly prioritize brands that address environmental concerns, making these innovations critical selling points.

Balancing Core and Innovation

Both brands stressed the importance of balancing core products with new, fashion-forward offerings. Berkowitz emphasized the enduring appeal of Norwegian Wool’s tailored coats for professionals: “The part of our collection that caters to the suit guy is still essential. They want a coat that works over a blazer, even if they only wear it sometimes. It should still look good casually.”

For Moose Knuckles, their iconic pieces remain the backbone of their business, representing approximately half of their retail sales. However, the brand isn’t afraid to innovate. “Core pieces might not be as sexy, but they keep the business financially sound,” King explained. “Once those bases are covered, retailers can afford to take risks.” The updated designs reflect brand heritage and modern consumer expectations, offering buyers a strong foundation with room to explore fashion-forward options.

Advice for Buyers: Confidence and Clarity

As retailers face increasing pressure to address macroeconomic challenges and shifting consumer behaviors, both brands underscored the need for confidence and focus. King advised, “The risk buyers need to take now is confidence. They must pick a lane, believe in it, and go full throttle. Weak presentations on sales floors don’t work.”

Berkowitz echoed this sentiment, highlighting the need for cohesive assortments: “People are more versatile in how they dress. They dress casually now and want one coat to do it all.” For Norwegian Wool, this means offering tailored outerwear that appeals to both professional and casual lifestyles.

Closing the Gap Between Buying Offices and Sales Floors

The growing disconnect between buying offices and retail sales floors is one of the industry’s most significant challenges. King

noted, “Buying offices and sales floors [are] more segregated now.” To address this, she invests heavily in training. “We have a killer QR-based product knowledge app, our sales team is consistently on floors before market, and our retail coordinator team is meeting with our retailers all season.” Without proper training and communication, the messaging around innovative products and sustainability efforts can get lost, impacting sales and customer experience.

Final Thoughts: Preparing for Fall 2025

Retailers like Bloomingdale’s are aligning with these strategies. “With cold weather arriving later, we’re bringing outerwear in at more strategic times, ensuring our stock aligns with actual seasonal demand while staying ahead of the curve,” shares David Thielebeule, Men’s Fashion Director at Bloomingdale’s. His emphasis on versatility, layering pieces, and balancing timeless styles with bold statements reinforces the approaches taken by brands like Norwegian Wool and Moose Knuckles. “Our clients are looking for versatility first and foremost. With fewer truly freezing days, [they want] warmth and luxury, while lighter, breathable materials are essential for layering,” he added.

By staying agile and tracking trends closely, brands and retailers can navigate the radically changing outerwear landscape with clarity and purpose. As King aptly summarized, “What is the most important thing that you as a retailer [can do for] your customer? Pick a lane and show that you believe in it while staying true to the brand.” Whether catering to the professional man commuting from the suburbs or the fashion-forward urbanite, the right outerwear choices will ensure a successful season ahead.

Eric Jennings has over twenty years of experience in the menswear industry in creative direction, marketing strategies, and brand development at high-profile companies such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Peerless Clothing, and Hugo Boss.

Michael Berkowitz

Jamee King

TAILORED CLOTHING: Change in the Air

Finally, new models are slipping into the tailored clothing arena. But is it enough to move the needle?

By Karen Alberg Grossman

There’s a new look on the horizon in men’s fashion, although you’d never know it by studying American men at airports, in restaurants, or at the office. It’s a slightly looser suit or sport coat, softer, drapier, more luxurious and far more comfortable than what’s in most closets. Pants might be pleated or not, but no longer tight. Fabrics might be knit or woven; colors might be pale neutrals or new shades of rose or green. Models include updated classics, DB blazers, tailored overshirts, even hybrid pieces that transition from sport coat to outerwear. Whatever newness excites you, we say bring it in, display it with conviction, wear it, talk it up, and sell, sell, sell! For according to most retailers, tailored clothing is still driving their menswear sales. Although recent gains are not quite as robust as

in 2022 and 2023 when weddings and events were at a post-Covid peak, many merchants are reporting fall ’24 sales increases of about 10%, with tailored clothing still contributing an average 35-45 percent to total menswear volume.

According to Dan Orwig, president of Peerless International (the largest clothing maker in North America), the fall season started off slowly, but with nice reaction to seasonal fashion. “While early fall weather was not in our favor, and election uncertainty caused some market anxiety, the business held at a steady pace. Then with the election behind us and the weather finally turning cold, we saw some nice gains.

“We’re happy with our fashion items this fall, especially fancy sport coats, which have been top performers. Corduroy and velvet have also been strong, and core items have been steady. Although we’ve not seen much action in oversized styles, we offer higher-waisted single pleat pants and looser-fitting DB sport coats. Responses have been mixed but we’ll continue to develop innovative fashion to keep our assortments fresh and relevant. Overall, the trend is moving to softer and more relaxed styling.”

“WE HAD MANY RETAILERS WHO TOOK A PASS ON DBS, BUT THOSE WHO TOOK A CHANCE SOLD THROUGH THEM RIGHT AWAY.”

NELSON SURIEL, JACK VICTOR

Alison Mangaroo, creative director at Paisley&Gray, offers a collection of versatile and cohesive pieces designed to maximize wardrobes. “We’ve incorporated tweed, wool, and knit fabrics in an earthy, grounded color story with rich, warm accents in easy-towear, unexpected silhouettes. We’re challenging the traditional suit concept with the ‘Unsuitable Suit.’ This concept includes multiple items in the same fabric – a blazer, a bomber jacket, a puffer coat, a top coat, and a pair of pants – that can be styled and mixed for various occasions. We strive to help our customers feel confident and experience the feeling of wearing a high-end designer brand without the hefty price tag.”

At Jack Victor USA, Nelson Suriel is most excited about his Comfort Collection in knit jersey fabrics. “Our business year-to-date is good, and I believe most better specialty retailers would say the same. Tailored clothing is still driving sales. For fall ’24, we’re seeing a continued uptick in sport coats. Our biggest growth continues to be in our Comfort Wear collection in knit jersey fabrics. Since these fabrics can’t be cut with our wovens, we cut them separately in a single model: our H body, featuring soft construction, patch pockets, and a self-cloth undercollar for a more relaxed attitude.”

But the big surprise, says Suriel, has been the success of the DB blazer, also part of their Comfort Wear collection. “It’s a knit fabric done in a perfect shade of navy – not too bright, not too dark. While DB blazers tend to be dressy, this model features patch pockets and casual buttons for a relaxed look/feel. We sold it so well for F’24 that we put it in our in-stock book, where it was the first item to sell out! We’re stocking another DB in our Spring ’25 book and a new version for F’25. We’ve added a DB tuxedo to our year-round program and a black DB suit in our separates program. “So as you can see, we’re very bullish on DBs. We had many retailers who took a pass and didn’t buy them. But those who took a chance sold through them right away.”

At Windsor, a European luxury brand with a growing presence in the States, managing director Jan Mangold lists best-sellers as jackets, overshirts, coats, knitwear and styles crafted from recycled cashmere. “These pieces have resonated with customers who value both the timeless designs and the quality of the fabrics. It’s a combination of relaxed tailoring with a more informal look. Suggested retails are $995-$1395 for jackets, $395-$595 for trousers and $1195–$1995 for coats.”

And at Corneliani, Rian Gardiner and team are celebrating the 20th anniversary of the ID jacket, showing it in numerous luxury and technical fabrics, as both sport coats and outerwear. “The ID jacket was invented in Italy for practical use: the zip-in chest piece prevented guys on motorbikes from losing their neckties to the wind. Today’s versions feature updated and upgraded fabrics, linings, trimmings and details. Key items include an ID bomber jacket in micro/cashmere and a LoroPiana wool/cashmere model.

At Samuelsohn and Heritage Gold, head designer Aliya Morehead says that MTM business is strong and advance sales for Spring ’25 are up sharply. “Our best retail partners report excellent sell throughs with our OTR jacket collection. MTM suits have also been trending nicely. For F’25 we’re introducing our new Heritage Gold S -Jacket, a beautiful blend of sartorial tailoring and soft construction. Samuelsohn is focused on ‘Super Luxe’, a dynamic combination of luxurious fabrics and our lightest full-canvas jacket.

“Our challenge is to execute our business to hit on all cylinders. While we’ve succeeded in growing our seasonal OTR fashion and our MTM businesses, we’ve been slow transitioning to a new basic in-stock program. The good news is that we’re about to launch that exciting new program. Aside from improved levels of execution, we’re focused on delivering more value for the price, giving our retail customers something new (the S-Jacket and the Super Luxe collection) to grow their business with us.

“OUR GOAL IS TO CONTINUE TO BRING IN NEWNESS AND FRESH, EXCITING PRODUCT.”

— BEN MAGNUSEN, MP3, MINNEAPOLIS

“Our prices are not increasing for F’25; we believe we’re in a great position to deliver more value to our customers, not higher prices. We’re not trying to re-invent the wheel; we just want to make it drive better and faster. If Trump increases tariffs on Canada, it will hurt our profits and increase our prices. In that case, we’ll work with our partners and customers to mitigate the impact for our end consumer. We don’t source from China so tariffs on Chinese goods won’t affect us.”

“OPENING PRICEPOINTS IN SUITS (BETENLY, RENOIR) ARE SELLING WELL, AS ARE THE HIGHER PRICEPOINTS (CANALI, CORNELIANI); WHAT’S TOUGHER IS THE MIDDLE.”

KEN GIDDON, ROTHMANS NYC

Retailers Look Ahead

Representing about 100 member stores, John Totolis from DLS reports that sport coats (driven by softer construction and interesting patterns) and custom (Munro and Trinity) are both growing businesses, with sport coats already accounting for a good half of tailored clothing volume in most stores. “There are so many ways to wear a sport coat these days,” affirms Totolis. “Formal with a dress shirt and tie, with a sharp knit polo, with dress pants or jeans, unconstructed with a tee shirt.”

He singles out dress pants as another growing category. “Trousers are quietly gaining traction, especially among upscale fashion consumers,” Totolis observes. “One DLS store just told me that his dress trouser business is up 29%. Malcom, a new-to-the-U.S. collection, is showing unique model options with pleats, side tabs, higher waists, permanent pin tuck seams, etc. Silhouettes are easing up a bit, but the blousy, baggy, ultra-wide models are mostly in avantgarde collections. As for pleats, they represent only 3-5 percent of

a store’s touser sales, but if marketed aggressively, this could be a growing business.”

Ben Magnusen from MP3 Minneapolis, whose fall/winter business has been steady, confides that the election cycle did impact customer engagement (as expected) but sales have since rebounded. He also notes that while 2025 plans are conservative, tailored categories are still growing, just at a somewhat slower rate. “That said, our goal is to continue to bring in newness and fresh, exciting product,” Magnusen maintains. “Tailored is still more than a third of total store volume, with Cucinelli, Isaia and Canali the top performing brands. Our tailored clothing volume breaks down into 15 percent suits, 50 percent sport coats, 5 percent trousers, 5 percent formalwear and 25% made-to-measure.”

At Rothman’s NYC, Ken Giddon reports that opening pricepoints in suits (Betenly, Renoir) are selling well, as are the higher pricepoints (Canali, Corneliani); what’s tougher is the middle. “Customers are still buying suits for events, young guys are going back to the office, and business that had slowed during Covid is finally back! Of course, it hasn’t helped that early fall in the Northeast saw little cold weather and virtually no rain for 45 straight days!

“Fortunately,” Giddon continues, “when it comes to wedding business, it seems there’s no limit to how much guys will spend on a suit or tux, sometimes as much as the bridal gown! Apparently, it’s not just for the affair itself but also to make a splash on social media.” Giddon estimates tailored clothing at 40 percent of Rothmans’ total menswear volume. “We’re not seeing much action in pleated trousers but DBs are performing well; we will double their penetration in 2025.”

David Rubenstein from Rubenstein’s New Orleans reports very strong clothing business based partly on the strength of tourism in NOLA. “Our units in tailored might be down a bit, but our dollar volume is way up,” he confides, estimating tailored clothing at about 35 percent of his menswear volume. That said, he wishes more restaurants would go back to imposing dress codes. “We benefit from the fact that Galatoire’s (the most famous restaurant in town, frequented by both tourists and locals) still has a dress code for men. We’re thankful for all the guys who make dinner reservations at Galatoire’s and then run into our store because they’ve neglected to pack a sport coat…”

Laissez les bons temps rouler!

IMAGE COURTESY OF ELEVENTY

CHANGES, CHALLENGES, PREDICTIONS 2025 AND BEYOND

How to plan menswear business in these precarious times? MR asks independent menswear merchants to consult their crystal balls.

By Karen Alberg Grossman

Wally Naymon, Kilgore Trout, Cleveland, Ohio

The only way to grow sales and profits these days is to manage expenses and be mindful of every dollar you spend. I travel economy; I eat at nice restaurants thanks to the generosity of vendors who sometimes invite me. I’m carefully watching selling costs, tailoring costs, and all costs.

There’s no certainty in anything anymore so it’s tough to plan. But for us, trading down is not the answer. We know who we are, and our customers still want luxury. But we’re not seeing the crazy growth we saw right after Covid. That business has slowed in men’s, but it’s still growing in women’s, maybe because there’s more newness on the women’s side.

Part of the problem is our own sellers. We’re bringing in lots of new looks: pleated trousers, fuller pants, easier fitting sweaters and jackets, but our sellers are not showing these with conviction. A 25-year-old salesman is still pushing (and wearing) suits that are too tight, too trim, too short. It’s frustrating, but it’s hard to make

someone sell what they don’t believe in. We are selling more DBs, however. We need our sellers to embrace change, be passionate about the new styles, and wear them!

As for the ramifications of Trump’s proposed tariffs, everyone is scared to death. Prices for fall ’25 are already up beyond reason. Luxury brand blazers that were $2995 are now $3700, a cashmere shirtjac that was $1795 is now $3500. While certain labels are still important to certain customers, we’re nurturing some lesser-known Italian brands at more reasonable prices.

Bottom line: my crystal ball predicts change. My advice: be light on your feet and meet the new challenges head-on. Don’t get caught up in the past.

Bob Mitchell, Mitchells Stores, USA

Changes we’re making include an investment in technology–specifically our app for our sales associates. We’re using technology to stay personal and connected. Many companies have heavily

“WHENEVER WE THINK THERE’S A SHIFT AWAY FROM SUITS AND SPORT COATS TO A MORE CASUAL WARDROBE, WE HAVE A STRETCH OF TAILORED CLOTHING INCREASES.”

ANDY MALLOR, ANDREW DAVIS MENSWEAR

invested in ecomm. We’ve heavily invested in both our app and ecomm, but the app is our priority, allowing our stylists to access all information by phone, connecting through the app and enhancing the in-store experience.

Our biggest challenge is the large global brands that want to end wholesale. We must work harder to prove to them the importance of multi-brand stores.

We don’t yet see an impact from tariffs, but without knowing exactly what will happen, it is hard to say.

We firmly believe in our mission “making people feel great” and our culture, which is shaped by four core values: Customers, Relationships, Excellence, and Data. The stores will remain the center of the customer experience and technology will keep us connected. If we stay true to our mission and values, we can adapt to any trends and changes.

Tom Gangitano and Wayne Kaleck, Gene Hiller Menswear, Sausalito, California

We’ve been in business for 71 years, adapting and changing based on the economic climate and our customers’ needs.

Our biggest change began in 2022 when we locked our doors and switched to business by appointment. Our customers love getting 100% of our attention and our knowledge. What’s more, this allows us to get more out of each customer: our average sale per customer has gone up, and we can better focus on each client’s wardrobe needs. In 2025, we’ll continue to refine our marketing around this appointment-based strategy.

The main challenge we’re up against is getting the word out. Referrals are very important, as are Google reviews. Also, Generative AI is reshaping retail, but achieving true AI success isn’t simple. How can AI boost efficiency and transform our customer experience? Understanding how to utilize AI is key.

As for the possible impact of tariffs, we don’t believe there will be an immediate effect. That said, we’re increasing our inventory at current prices so should there be an impact, it will be less damaging to our profit margins.

Our crystal ball into the future: a continued emphasis on performance fabrics, luxury fibers, and casual styling.

Ian Rosen, Harry Rosen Stores, Canada

We’re focused on diversifying our business to embrace the new trends in men’s fashion. With the shift away from suiting in the workplace, we’re seeing pickups in soft jackets, sports jackets and knits. For trend forward and designer clients, we continue to balance established collections with newer emerging labels. We think long and hard about what occasions and habits are driving demand. The main trend we’re seeing today is a focus on versatility – clients want to know how they can dress an item up and down depending on their day. We need to continue to inspire the client to invest in quality pieces, even in a more casual professional setting.

Our job is to deliver an exceptional experience to the client, in-store and online. When we don’t deliver that, it gives our incredible customers a reason to look elsewhere. The main challenge we face is client expectations being higher than ever. Clients expect timely responses to inquiries, with information at the ready. We need our team to be as proficient with technology as they are with a tape measure!

As for the impact of propsed tariffs, as a Canadian company, we can only hope that free and beneficial trade between Canada and the U.S. will continue. We carry so many important collections from the U.S. so we’re hoping there’s no impediment to conducting business as usual!

My crystal ball: The primary shift we expect is the growth of custom in more and more categories. Not only does it hit on the trend of personalizing your wardrobe, but it’s also a more sustainable way of building key businesses. We’re focused on ensuring our custom-made options for clients are dynamic, from opening pricepoints to luxury ones. At 20 percent of our business now, we’re projecting online to grow to about a third of our total volume.

Andy Mallor, Andrew Davis, Bloomington, Indiana

Our most promising change comes from elevating pricepoints. Our customers love the quality and style of our Italian and better vendors and don’t mind paying higher prices. We’ve also completely remodeled our store to upgrade the shopping experience.

Our key challenge continues to be staffing. We’ve been looking to grow our team for the last year and face a lack of interested and capable candidates. Finding someone with a passion for retail has been difficult. We’re fortunate to have a great team but we’re in need of full-time sellers.

Also, I’m concerned about any tariffs for Canada or Mexico and their impact on retail prices. For China and elsewhere, the probability is high that vendors will find new sourcing. We’re cautiously optimistic that whatever is implemented won’t have a material impact on prices and will be balanced by other economic policies that give consumers more buying power, but that’s the optimistic side. The pessimistic side is that tariffs imposed on our trading partners could increase prices with little benefits.

We’re optimistic that our business growth will continue into 2025 and beyond. Whenever we think there’s a shift away from suits and sport coats to a more casual wardrobe, we have a stretch of tailored clothing increases, so our assortment balance remains stable. There will continue to be subtle ebbs and flows, but our business will remain vital if we keep adjusting assortments and introducing new brands. We will rely even more on information from our inventory planner, Black’s Retail, and will work collaboratively within the Luxe Group to maintain the success of the past years.

Terry Felumb, Mr. Guy, St. Louis, Missouri

The biggest change we’re making in our business is turning it over to my daughter Sarah and son-in-law Simon, who will now be making all buying and personnel decisions in both the women’s and men’s. I’ll still handle financials.

“TRADING DOWN IS NOT THE ANSWER FOR US. WE KNOW WHO WE ARE, AND OUR CUSTOMERS STILL WANT LUXURY.”

WALLY NAYMON, KILGORE TROUT, CLEVELAND

Our biggest challenge is simply to keep the ball rolling. Tailored clothing (especially Canali, Victor, Samuelsohn) has been driving sales since Covid; the challenge is to maintain the increases. The other issue: finding engaged sellers. We’ve been looking, but they’re hard to locate. Same for talented tailors. We’re lucky to have three great ones from Eastern Europe who are only in their 50s so we’ve got some time before we worry.

As for the prospect of tariffs, I don’t see how any good can come of them. We’ve already seen notable price increases in recent years and at some point, customers will reject the ticket prices.

That said, my crystal ball predicts that upscale independent stores will continue to flourish. We’ve got Nordstrom, Neiman’s and Saks in our backyard but in terms of customer experience, shoppers are choosing us.

David Rubenstein, Rubenstein’s, New Orleans, Louisiana

We’re not making many changes these days because our business is healthy. I can’t take the credit unfortunately. The city of New Orleans is booming with lots of tourists, the Superbowl, festivals…

My biggest challenge going forward is getting the right sellers on the selling floor. Salaries at many new tech businesses are considerably higher than retail; although not a problem yet, it could be in another five years. The other challenge is competition: all the new custom suit makers popping up out of nowhere. It’s a business with low cost of entry: since there’s no inventory, it requires minimal space. They just take measurements and send the numbers off to China or India. Fortunately for us, few of these makers know how to measure. My take on potential tariffs: I’m not losing sleep over it! Prices have been going up every year for a long time. Most customers won’t even notice, or else they won’t care.

Kent Gushner, Boyds, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

The most important change I’m making in my business is increased investments in training our sales associates. We have 35 sellers in our two stores who will be working with professional trainers, often 1 on 1. Instead of just providing general information, trainers will be teaching the blocking and tackling, with a greater emphasis on the younger employees for two reasons: 1) because they need it more, and 2) because it’s easier for them to accept change.

I strongly believe that finding, training and retaining the type of employees we want to represent our brand is our most important challenge. We’re also working with an advertising firm to produce a video showcasing the opportunities and advantages of working at Boyds. In this way, potential candidates can just go to our website for a visual infusion of our DNA. In my opinion, nothing is more important than attracting the right people, not just in sales but in marketing, finance, administration… I also believe that store owners must be willing to pay more. I’d rather have fewer welltrained sales associates than lots of uninspired ones.

As for tariffs, I’m not all that concerned. I tend to believe that the talk is a lot of hot air and even if I’m wrong, I don’t think retailers will have to bear the entire burden.

Bottom line, I’m optimistic. I believe incoming government policies will be pro-business, and that now more than ever, better specialty stores are in a good position to grow their share of market. I find a natural synergy between the luxury business and better specialty stores. The majors (Neimans/Saks, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s) are the antithesis of what we stand for, which is service, ambiance, experience, relationships… I hear it all the time from our men’s store customers: they no longer want to shop in the big stores or go near a mall. Because let’s face it: in this era of fairly classic menswear, it’s more about the people than the product. I’m very optimistic about growth opportunities for all the better specialty merchants out there.

IT’S SHOWTIME!

By Brian Scott Lipton

For fashion retailers and menswear brands, the turning of the calendar signals not only making resolutions you will immediately break but also the need to attend and prepare for a new round of trade shows and market appointments.

In January, that means squeezing in showroom appointments and menswear shows across a somewhat fractured calendar in New York City, while several trade shows combine to make one big “fashion week” in Dallas.

NEW YORK CITY

There is a lot going on in New York City during January, and not all at the same time, from numerous trade shows — including the Man/Woman Show, New York’s Best Menswear Show, Project Presents, and Welcome Edition — to open showrooms full of the latest men’s fashion. So how does a smart retailer plan their January calendar?

The answer has been provided by the United Men’s Fashion Association (UMFA. us), a group of showrooms and trade shows that are trying to reestablish New York City

as the center of the men’s fashion industry. The organization has created a userfriendly digital map (see the website) that indicates the times and places of all member events.

“The map and website were a result of efforts by the members of UMFA in order to have a centralized hub for buyers to see all the showrooms and tradeshows exhibiting during the Men’s market,” says Joshua Jacobs, cofounder and partner of the J Squared Group.

Adds Don Weschler, founder of New York’s Best Menswear Show: “Ever since COVID19 turned industry show planning upside down, we have been working to revitalize New York Market Week by uniting with the UMFA and various showrooms to create this useful map.”

Weschler’s show, which features over 40 major brand exhibitors, used to have retailers bopping from room to room at the Park Central Hotel. However, this season, he is introducing a new format at the same location, but using the hotel’s beautiful ballroom.

“Our show started as a hotel room show to be an economical alternative for the larger booth shows in New York, but times have changed. So, for January, we are evolving to a booth show, but one where vendor costs are still controlled to make sure the cost of the show is an excellent value when balanced with sales and contacts the show produces for all presenters,” says Wechsler.

“No matter the format, for a show to be successful, all vendors must work to introduce their brands to the retailers and make appointments. To help with that, we provide advertising and tools to each vendor to help them with these tasks,” he adds.

Time for everyone in menswear to take another big bite out of The Big Apple!

DALLAS

Bigger usually means better in Texas. This year, that’s definitely true of The Dallas Men’s Show, which runs January 25-27 (with a special preview day on January 24).

The Dallas Men’s Show will move to a 60,000-square-foot space in the Market Hall building, while the Mart’s permanent menswear showrooms remain in the World Trade Center building next door (a short walk away, but shuttles between venues will be provided).

“We can’t wait for our buyers and exhibitors to experience the reimagined Dallas Men’s Show!” says Cindy Morris, president and CEO of Dallas Market Center. “Retailers can discover new trends and make meaningful connections with even more exhibitors during a week of events concluding with the Dallas Men’s Show.”

This year’s biggest change is that the dates of the January 2025 show have been timed to be adjacent to other Dallas fashion markets, creating the opportunity for buyers to shop additional categories and for exhibitors to connect with more new accounts.

This year, the Women’s Apparel & Accessories Market and KidsWorld take place January 21-24; WESA’s International Western/English Apparel & Equipment Market runs January 22-25; and the AETA International Trade Show for the business of English riding and lifestyle takes place January 22-25.

Having tripled in size over the last five years, this year’s Men’s Show will include hundreds of leading brands in a wide variety of categories, including classic suiting, casual wear, outdoor lifestyle, sportswear, golf, contemporary, footwear, accessories, and men’s gifts. Moreover, the show has expanded its attendance to welcome buyers from coast to coast, representing many of the country’s top menswear retailers.

Further, a number of brand and sales representatives will take the spotlight as they showcase their own collections by

walking the runway at the Men’s Fashion Show (January 25 at 6 pm). Each representative will be accompanied by two professional models, also dressed in the brand’s newest designs.

Most of all, for those attending on Saturday, January 25, please mark down 12 pm to 1 pm on your calendar to attend the MR Trends Panel, “Threads of Thought,” at the Market Hall Main Stage. We will dive into emerging trends for 2025 and discuss the growing impact of “better brands” on the modern wardrobe. A complimentary lunch and a lively conversation are included.

PHOTO

Brian Scott Lipton is a nationally renowned journalist, specializing in celebrity interviews, entertainment and fashion.

MBAYE

DAKAR, SENEGAL

Paisley & Gray coat, Ballin pants, J. Press sweater, Hermes scarf, Rowing Blazers hat, Afro Pop socks, stylist's own pin.

DANTE

CLINTON, MA

Marine Layer jacket and shirt, Levi’s overalls, Ray-Ban sunglasses, Camp Hero bracelets, stylist’s own bandana.

DANNY

PENANG, MALAYSIA

Knickerbocker jacket, Paisley & Gray turtleneck, Diesel leather pants, 47 X J. Crew donegal tweed baseball cap, Armitron watch, Hestra gloves, stylist’s own belt & buckle.

NEW YORK, NY

JEREMIAH

Ryan Originals coat, Levis shirt and jeans, Stetson cowboy hat, Wolverine 1000 Mile boot, stylist’s own bolo tie.

CALE SEATTLE, WA

Hawke & Co. jacket, Duvin carpenter pants and baseball cap, Thank You Cool T-shirt, Epperson Mountaineering large climb pack, Hollywood Trading Co. belt, Frye engineer boots.

DASAN MIAMI, FL

Golden Goose jacket, Hermes scarf.

NEW YORK, NY

JONATHAN

Paisley & Gray coat, Frye sweater and flannel shirt, Tommy Hilfiger corduroy trousers, Armitron watch, stylist’s own hat.

JOSE

Producer: John Jones; stylist: Michael Macko; photographer: Marko Kalfa; groomer: Linsey Marmorato/Honey Artists; styling assistant: Lauren Corcoran; photo assistant: Georgi James; grooming assistant: Ashley Meyers/ Honey Artists; models: Mbaye, Tommy Gray, Jeremiah Melvin, Danny Lim, Dante Sanchez, Michael Odette, Cale Millen, Dasan Zahir, Jose David, and Jonathan Akilov/all Soul Artist Management. Special thanks to agency director, Sarah Hamilton Bailey for all of her assistance with this project.

MIAMI, FL

Bugatchi coat, Hiltl trousers, J. Crew sweater and shirt, Epperson Mountaineering leisure tote, Afro Pop socks, Bass shoes, Filth Mart boutonnière.

MICHAEL RALEIGH, NC

Universal Works coat, Off-White leather joggers, Porsche Design sunglasses, Mixology NYC by Ali Hessert metal mesh scarf, T-shirt stylist’s own. t-shirt.

Photos by Marko Kalfa

KARAKO SUITS

From Generation to Generation…

By Karen Alberg Grossman

Cousins Moshe and Michael Karako are the force behind a third-generation/tri-state/10store clothing business founded by their grandfather in 1982. Despite their youth, they’ve been making waves in the highly competitive volume-priced suit business. At a time when Business Casual still rules and most suit sales are driven by weddings and occasions, theirs is a unique, family-focused story of determination and drive.

Clearly, these two ambitious 30-something entrepreneurs learned a lot from their dads, Chaim and Ezra. At 35, Moshe is the slightly older cousin, but too young to remember the store that his grandfather (an immigrant from Turkey) opened on the lower east side in 1982. “My grandfather and my dad ran that store, then called Suits Warehouse Outlet. When my uncle dropped out of high school to join them, they opened a second store on the next corner. They’d send customers back and forth between the stores.”

The business grew slowly but surely; when they needed an additional storefront, they bought an entire building. As the Lower East Side became gentrified, they rented that storefront to Steve Madden and opened a location on Long Island. They’re about to open their 11th store.

“I think I was born in a suit,” jokes Michael. “I worked in the store as a teenager and learned so much from my dad. He’d say, “Never get too comfortable; keep innovating and pushing forward.” Another gem from Ezra: Never regret mistakes; learn the lesson and move on…”

Early believers in advertising, ad dollars went from The Daily News and Newsday to radio, TV, and social media. “We also sponsored Islander games,” says Michael, “but what really put us on the map was our 3-3-3 pricing strategy: 3 suits, 3 shirts, 3 ties. Guys can buy a wardrobe for the price of one suit.”

Indeed. Suits open at $140 and top out at $1,299 (in luxury fabrics from Vitale Barbares, Loro Piana and Zegna). Custom suits can run up to $5,000, even $6,000. Tuxedo rentals open at $119.

Other smart moves: 1) Partnering with Daymond John for Fubu clothing, using the tagline “Dress Like a Shark” in their marketing. 2) Adding women’s suits and using shapely female models to show off sexy pantsuits on Facebook. And 3) Updating technology. While many retailers find themselves over-inventoried in these unpredictable times, Karako’s technology allows them to produce goods based on actual selling. “We’re now making decisions based on data, perhaps our smartest move of all,” says Moshe.

But just as important, he continues, “We keep our people happy. Our employees have good health care, a 401K. We’re more like a family than a corporation although as we grow, we’re trying to be a little more corporate.

“Bottom line: although we now manufacture 80 percent of our own goods, we’re able to get merchandise from local vendors as needed. As my dad often reminds me: “Always keep your door open, and never forget where you came from.”

“YOU NEED TO KNOW HOW TO PIVOT.”

— MOSHE KARAKO

WELL-SUITED COUSINS: MOSHE (AKA SEAN) AND MICHAEL KARAKO

MOSHE (RIGHT) WITH DAYMOND JOHN, PARTNERS IN FUBU

WOMEN TO WATCH: Jennie Arnau, Peregrine Showroom

Described as outspoken, opinionated, smart, genuine, and lots of fun, this fashion expert shares her thoughts on contemporary business

By Karen Alberg Grossman

Your background? How did you build a successful business as a rep for contemporary brands?

I was born and raised in Greenville SC, went to college in Missouri, and then headed straight to NYC to pursue theater. To make ends meet, I started working at The Gap and then at Charivari, where I fell in love with a ton of wonderful people. Selma Weiser shared an excitement and passion for the business that was truly contagious. I also worked at Giorgio Armani and Helmut Lang before switching to wholesale, first with Denise Williamson and then on my own. I’ve had Peregrine Showroom for almost 16 years; starting with two collections, I now have 14, which I think is the right number.

How do you discover the brands you represent?

Usually, by referrals. For example, my designers and industry friends will pass along brands if they think I’d like the

aesthetic and the people. Or else I might be walking around Pitti Uomo, and a collection somehow speaks to me… Most of the brands I rep are European.

Can you define contemporary? Is there a common denwominator among the brands you select?

Yes, but it’s hard to explain. Most often, the collection has an element of tradition/heritage/authenticity (think Filson, Red Wing, Barbour) combined with an independent attitude. Contemporary consumers are often younger and more open to new ideas. They don’t stick with tight, stretchy jeans for 10 years just because everyone’s wearing them. They enjoy testing what’s new.

If new doesn’t seem to be working, how long do you give it?

I work with a lot of brands that are just getting off the ground, so it takes time. You must be willing to lose money for two or three years before you make any. And sometimes, when you’re launching a brand, it just doesn’t feel right. It’s not the designer, it’s not the rep: the marriage just isn’t working. If it’s people I truly love and a concept I really believe in, I’ll give them as long as they give me. But if they’re impatient or unwilling to listen to a bit of direction as it concerns the U.S. market, it’s often better to part ways sooner rather than later.

How’s recent business?

It’s okay, and in some cases, better than okay. The contemporary business is small: maybe 80 stores across the country. But add to that the many traditional stores finally realizing that they need to go younger, and the potential is growing. Unfortunately, few contemporary merchants or brands

are making big bucks these days. But if the store is unique, reflecting the personality of the owners, and if the owners have reached out to connect with like-minded clients (via social media, advertising, and in-store events), they can be very successful.

What can be done to reunite/re-energize the New York men’s market?

In order to bring back NYC as the center of men’s fashion, we need a new kind of trade show, different from any we’ve had in the past. We also need exciting evening events to create a sense of community. We need to bring back the fun, the way the New York market was 25 years ago. Of course, to do this, we need core designers to invest in and support an innovative trade show concept that might take some time to build. The UMFA [See “It’s Showtime,” p. 34] has been working on this lately; interested parties should contact me.

What have you learned from your 35 years in this business?

Two things come to mind: 1) You can’t do it on your own; we all need mentors, and we should ask for help as needed; and 2) Nothing works out if you’re not nice!

“WE NEED TO BRING BACK THE FUN, THE WAY THE NEW YORK MARKET WAS 25 YEARS AGO.”

Email Jennie at Jennie.Arnau@gmail.com.