MR Magazine July 2023

MR AWARDS 2023

THE RIGHT STUFF

TRAVEL FAVORITES

MENSWEAR PROS’ MUST-HAVES

SPRING ’24 STYLE SOLUTIONS BREAKING THE DRESS CODE THE RETURN OF THE LOAFER FOOTWEAR GOES CASUAL

L’IMPERMEABILE Booth 1530

PASOTTI Booth 1802

VITALIANO Booth 1706

TIKI NAPOLI Booth 1801

SUPREMA Booth 1702

ITALO FERRETTI Booth 1804

ATHISON Booth 1535

PIERO GABRIELI Booth 1911

Booth 1533

PLOUMANAC’H Booth 1704

SERA’ FINE SILK Booth 1808

1805

SALVATORE MARTORANA Booth 1707

STEFANO CAU Booth 1803

BENCIVENGA ALTA SARTORIA Booth 1708

PASHMERE Booth 1709

DIS DESIGN ITALIAN SHOES Booth 1701

ARCURI Booth 1703

WE APPLAUD ALL OF THE 2023 HONOREES!

Special congratulations to this year’s recipient of the Lifetime Achievement Award:

MARK WEBER

Your countless contributions have helped shape the landscape of this industry.

You are ALWAYS IN FASHION.

PRESENTS:

WE ARE PROUD TO CELEBRATE THE ACCOMPLISHMENTS OF THIS YEAR’S HONOREES TINA ANNIVERSARIO AND CRAIG DELONGY

CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR VALUED BUSINESS PARTNERS TINA ANIVERSARIO, CRAIG D E LONGY, BRUCE SCHEDLER AND TO ALL THE DESERVING HONOREES.

MR AWARDS 2023

22 Mark Weber

Lifetime Achievement

30 Robert Stock Hall of Fame

36 Sal Cesarani Industry Impact

40 Tina Aniversario, Nordstrom

Merchant of the Year: Department Store

46 H. Craig DeLongy, John Craig

Merchant of the Year: Specialty Store

52 Jason & Jesse Meyer, Tim & Heather Ellis, Milworks

Merchants of the Year: Contemporary Store

56 Bruce Schedler, Chicago Collective People’s Choice

60 Brandice Daniel, Harlem’s Fashion Row Vanguard

DEPARTMENTS

12 Editor’s Letter Ensuring the future.

14 Traveling Men Summer’s must-haves. 66 Dress Code

24 Trends for S/S 2024.

80 Loafing Around

The return of ease.

EDITORIAL

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

FASHION & CONTENT EDITOR JOHN RUSSEL JONES

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR MICHAEL MACKO

CREATIVE DIRECTORS NANCY CAMPBELL TREVETT MCCANDLISS

CONTRIBUTING ART DIRECTOR ROSEMARY O’CONNELL

ADVERTISING

GROUP PUBLISHER LIZETTE CHIN ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER CHARLES GARONE

PRODUCTION

PRODUCTION MANAGERS LAURIE GUPTILL, FERN MESHULAM, KATHY WENZLER

MARKETING & PRODUCTION SPECIALIST CATHERINE ROSARIO

OFFICE MANAGER PENNY BOAG

ACCOUNTING KASIE CARLETON, URSZULA JANECZKO

ADVISORY BOARD

TINA ANIVERSARIO NORDSTROM

JUSTIN BERKOWITZ BLOOMINGDALE’S

SAM GLASER STITCHED

KARL-EDWIN GUERRE NO CHASER/GUERRISMS

KATIE LIU & MICHAEL KREIMAN BLACK DOG 8 SHOWROOM ALAN LEINEN HALLS

STEVE PRUITT BLACKS RETAIL

WAINSCOT MEDIA

CHAIRMAN CARROLL V. DOWDEN

PRESIDENT & CEO MARK DOWDEN

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER/VICE PRESIDENT STEVEN RESNICK

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT RITA GUARNA

VICE PRESIDENTS LIZETTE CHIN, NIGEL EDELSHAIN

THOMAS FLANNERY, NOELLE HEFFERNAN, COLEMAN MCCARTAN, BELINDA PINA, MARIA REGAN

CORPORATE OFFICE

ONE MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656

WWW.MR-MAG.COM • WWW.WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM

THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE

Photography by Chris Fucile. Styling by Michael Macko. Hair by Cy Blankinship. Grooming by Marlon Steen. Assistant Styling by Billy Teed. Models: Isha Blaaker and Conrad Solaka, Soul Artist Management.

This page: suit by Canali; bag by Grey New York Grey New England; necklace by Jan Leslie; shoes by Officina Slowear; vintage military tank top.

On the cover: suit by Tommy Hilfiger; shirt and belt by Robert Talbott; tie by Eton; boots by Florsheim; ring by Miansai

F UT U R E... E N S URI N G THE

...WHILE RESPECTING THE PAST.

and resources, not just for designers of color but for all of us.

Our Hall of Fame winner this year is Robert Stock, the “other guy from the Bronx” who started his career with Ralph before launching numerous groundbreaking brands, including the wildly successful Robert Graham collection.

trade show — which he did not want but has grown to love, to the benefit of the entire men’s industry.

As we prepare for our 16th annual MR Awards Dinner, I’m thinking about how far we’ve come since the pandemic. On average, the men’s business is keeping pace with last year’s record-breaking sales; although some candid merchants admit they’re over-inventoried, menswear sales overall remain surprisingly healthy.

In this issue, we honor industry leaders who are sharing their talents, vision, and new ideas to lift us all. Our Department Store Merchant of the Year is Nordstrom VP Tina Aniversario, a fearless, well-respected merchant who, with support from her management, continues to seek out emerging brands, making notable strides toward diversity, equity, inclusion, and belonging.

Speaking of DEI, MR is proud to give our Vanguard Award to Brandice Daniel, a woman who’s provided valuable tools

Also starting out at Ralph Lauren, award-winning designer Sal Cesarani will receive the Industry Impact Award for the many hours he’s spent over the years teaching and mentoring at both Parsons and FIT. I’ve had the privilege of watching Sal instruct at both these fine schools and remain inspired by his passion, patience, and technical expertise.

We’re delighted this year to honor Milworks and its four founders (Jason and Jesse Meyer, Tim and Heather Ellis) as our Contemporary Store of the Year. They deserve accolades for capturing a market segment known to be elusive, especially now that classic and contemporary seem to overlap.

Our Specialty Merchant of the Year is H. Craig DeLongy, with his soon to be eight Florida-based stores that epitomize effortless luxury. Craig has combined an exceptional taste level with his innate ability to motivate his team, engage his customers, and share his wisdom with other retailers,.

Our People’s Choice Award goes to Bruce Schedler, VP of the Chicago Collective. You will love his story about how he got hired for a tough job—rebuilding a dying

Finally, our Lifetime Achievement Award goes to Mark Weber, a former top exec at both PVH and LVMH. A strong believer in the American Dream, that success comes to those who work harder than they have to and learn more than they need to, Mark is now hosting Always in Fashion, a radio show and podcast on life and lifestyle. His ability to laugh at himself is a wonderful trait that we’d all do well to emulate.

A big thanks to all our MR award winners for sharing a few success secrets. It’s what makes our menswear industry so special and what we all can be doing to spread the love and ensure the future.

PHOTO BY ROSE CALLAHAN

“SHARING SUCCESS SECRETS. IT’S WHAT MAKES OUR INDUSTRY SPECIAL AND WHAT WE ALL CAN BE DOING TO SPREAD THE LOVE.”

F A SHION F U T URES TRAVELING MEN

If you work in menswear you travel a lot, whether it’s domestically to trade shows and store branches, internationally to fashion capitals for presentations and inspiration, or long-haul flights to oversee manufacturing and production. In celebration of summer being here and everyone getting ready to take off for another travel season, we surveyed some of the coolest insiders we know and asked what they don’t leave home without.

By Michael Macko

THULANI NGAZIMBI Founder of The Rad Black Kids

What is your favorite sunscreen brand and SPF?

“Bolden Skin Care SPF 30 Brightening Moisturizer. There's hardly any companies that cater adequately to black skin. Bolden does, and it adds elements that help your skin, which is something that we can all get behind.”

BRUCE PASK

What is your summer fragrance of choice?

“When in Florence for Pitti Uomo I always stop in at Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella and restock on Tobacco Toscano, but in high summer I turn to Mineral Wave.It’s a very nostalgic, post-beach scent, and a Nordstrom’s exclusive that we launched with Hawthorne, which is an Asian-owned brand with an array of products I can’t get enough of.”

What is your favorite beach/travel shoe?

“I wear Common Projects Achilles Low sneakers all the time. They’re comfortable and clean, with minimal styling needed, so it gives them great versatility while traveling. They also go with everything. I am currently loving the reissue of their white perforated leather version, which is exclusive to Bergdorf Goodman.”

JIAN DELEON Men’s Fashion Director at Nordstrom

Men’s Fashion Director, Bergdorf Goodman, and Neiman Marcus

PHOTOS: BRUCE PASK BY CORY VANDERPLOEG; THULANI NGAZIMBI BY ELISA PINTO FREITAS.

What brand of dopp kit do you use when you travel?

“Not surprisingly, I use the Miansai Lido Dopp Kit in black. It has three pockets inside and is made from premium Italian leather. It’s the perfect, sharp accessory to carry all your grooming needs in one place.”

What is your favorite carry-on bag for travel?

“I have fallen for all things Bennett Winch, an incredible English brand I carry that specializes in hand-crafted bags and accessories. I've been carrying their tote bag in a luxe full-grain Italian leather and now can't imagine traveling without it.”

What is your favorite swimsuit style and brand?

“Hands down it’s the Anchor style, from Fair Harbor. Not only are they made from upcycled plastic bottles, but they fit incredibly well and look great!”

What is your go-to suitcase brand and size?

“I love a road trip. Cruising up the Cali coast is A+. But that’s gonna require a bit more than a weekender. Even though I pack light with my uniform of black tees and sweats, I gotta leave some room for hiking gear and pool essentials. I like a bag that isn’t too precious. It’s gonna get thrown around a bit. Patagonia’s Black Hole Wheeled Duffel Bag, in the 70 L capacity, wins for the drive and for the plane.”

DON WEIR , Co-Owner, STAG Provisions

What is your favorite packing hack?

“My main hack is to pack a uniform. I stick to two pairs of pants, two pairs of shorts, and two pairs of shoes, and then stock up on shirts and maybe an overshirt or blazer that I can dress up if needed, depending on the weather. That and stuffing my socks in my shoes to save room. I'm a pretty light packer.”

TODD SNYDER Founder & Designer, Todd Snyder

MICHAEL SAIGER Founder + Creative Director, Miansai

KEN GIDDON President, Rothman’s

ANDY SALZER Owner, Hiro Clark

PHOTO: TODD SNYDER BY MATTHEW BROOK

CONGRATULATIONS TO MARK WEBER

ON HIS WELL-DESERVED LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD

FROM ALL OF US AT G-III

THE RIGHT STUFF!

MR’s 2023 award winners are hardly a homogeneous group. But as different as they are, they share a few common traits. These include an innate curiosity, a stellar work ethic, the courage to take risks, the ability to inspire and to compromise, the desire to teach and to give back. We salute our 2023 award winners; may we continue to learn from each other.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY MARK HARRIS

MARK WEBER

Man on a Mission

By Karen Alberg Grossman

MARK WEBER ADMITS at our interview that he’s been a bit troubled of late. On a recent broadcast of Always in Fashion, the provocative radio show on lifestyle and popular culture that he hosts with his son Jesse on iHeartMedia, he uses the word uncomfortable “I was asked to present to a diverse student audience at Brooklyn College, my alma mater. But these young graduates made me feel like an idiot, standing there in my expensive suit and gold Rolex, touting my successes and steadfast belief in the American Dream. The students challenged me with tough questions that reflected their disillusionment with its notion of equal opportunity, and their overall disappointment in America. I tried to defend myself with my rags-to-riches success story, but these street-smart kids weren’t buying it.”

To make matters worse, shortly after this experience, a professor from the school called Mark to ask if he’d join the board. Flattered at first, Mark was ultimately disheartened to learn that they were simply looking for a donor, for someone who could generate big bucks. “What kind of fool am I?” he asked his radio audience as he retold the story on his show. “I thought they wanted me for my speaking ability and worldly experience. In the end, I declined the offer.”

The irony of all this is not immediately apparent unless you know Mark Weber as a person. While his good looks, self-confidence, and impressive résumé (top executive positions at PVH and LVMH, two of the biggest, most respected apparel corporations in the world) can come across as arrogance, he’s actually got a big heart and a strong desire to teach young people what he’s learned from his life experiences. His unique ability to laugh at himself is a refreshing trait among too many humorless CEOs.

That said, his life truly does epitomize the American Dream,

Mwhich is why he deeply believes that this country offers tremendous opportunity for anyone with a strong work ethic and drive. “It’s often said that success comes from following your passion. But passion alone is not enough! We all have different minds, different talents, different skills. I love to sing, but if I wanted to make a career of it, I’d never succeed because I don’t have a great voice. So instead of just following your passion, find something you enjoy at which you can excel. I happen to be creative by nature. I can walk into a room filled with fabric swatches and know exactly which ones will sell. I didn’t know that early on. I was lucky to be in a place where my talents were recognized. But my real secret weapon has been an ability to discover opportunities and jump on them. Throughout my career at PVH, I made it a point to study what successful execs were doing and incorporate these actions into my work activity. I had the wherewithal to believe that I could improve myself. And so I did!”

In Mark’s own words, a bit of his backstory: “I grew up in city housing projects that, back then, were brand-new. I loved my early childhood: lots of kids, bikes, trees. It was only when I started junior high that I began to realize that my life was different from that of many of my contemporaries. Until I walked to my new school in a different neighborhood, I didn’t know there was such a thing as a private home. I didn’t realize my new friends lived in a world with fancy cars, summer camps, lessons, vacations. It really hit me when I met the mom of one of my new friends—she looked 20 years younger than my mom! But then she didn’t work, whereas my mom was a bookkeeper who held down two different jobs, as did my dad. My wealthy friends would go bowling on weekends from 10:00 in the morning to 10:00 at night. My mom would give me just enough money to bowl two games.”

Although Mark maintains he wouldn’t change a thing, he realized by high school that he had a lot of catching up to do. “I was behind the eight ball. I hadn’t paid much attention in school and wasn’t groomed to succeed. I’d worked at various menial jobs since age 15. When I graduated from Brooklyn College, I had no idea what I was good at, or what I wanted to do with my life.”

Enter a friend whom Mark had worked with at a clothing store who knew a recruiter who agreed to see Mark about an opening at PVH. “Isn’t Van Heusen an old man’s shirt company?” Mark inquired.

The recruiter set him straight. “Nothing’s more important for

MARK HARRIS

you now than to be exposed to the business world, and to learn. PVH is one of the top apparel companies in America. Now why do you want to work for them?”

“I have no idea.”

“You can’t say that! You should say you’ve always had an interest in fashion. You have an intuitive feel for it. Next question: How much money do you want to make?”

“I have no idea… $50 thousand?”

“Mark, you’re a piece of work! You should say, ‘Pay me whatever you think is fair. Money is not important to me right now. I want to work for a company willing to train me and provide opportunity.’”

Mark went to the interview the next day. As he explains it, “I met with a VP/GMM for a position as an assistant designer. He asked me the same questions the recruiter had asked and of course I knew all the answers. He looked at me like I was gifted. It was like taking the SATs with a cheat sheet.

“I got the job and, a week later, attended a PVH town hall meeting with 300 employees and then president Stanley Gillette. The guy was amazing: dignified, well-dressed, brilliant speaker. Aside from the speech itself (that started out with how proud he was to be our president), what blew my mind was how eloquently he spoke without notes! So, my first goal at my first real job

became to learn to speak without notes. I realized I was now in an exceptional environment where everyone was smarter than the next guy, and everyone was aiming for success. I realized I was given the opportunity of a lifetime and boy did I go after it from then on. Not every boss I had was great, but I understood that there was something to learn from each of them.”

Mark’s 33-year climb up the PVH corporate ladder to CEO ended abruptly in 2006, allegedly for his flamboyant management style and inability to conform to the corporate image. But he soon found a home as CEO of LVMH America, where he continued to learn about the luxury market and about differences between European and American corporations. “Lesson #1: There’s Louis Vuitton and then there’s everyone else. If you try to emulate Vuitton, you will fail. Lesson #2: European businessmen are about strategy. If the strategy makes sense, they’ll follow it to the ends of the earth with few worries about next quarter profits. American execs work quarter by quarter.”

Mark’s experience at LVMH with the Donna Karan brands ultimately led to a sale to G-III, a transaction in which he was very instrumental. “I’d done everything I thought I could do for the brand. After I left, I felt that LVMH should focus on pure luxury and that G-III should own more brands, so the sale proved very beneficial to both companies.” (Editor’s note: G-III is now a key sponsor of Mark’s Always in Fashion broadcasts, and in an unusual arrangement, Mark writes or ad-libs the ads and presents them in his own voice.)

Says Morris Goldfarb, CEO of GIII, “As CEO of PVH, Mark gave our company the first of many Calvin Klein licenses. His confidence and guidance enabled us to build probably the largest ever license in the apparel sector. At LVMH he stayed as CEO of Donna Karan/DKNY beyond his contract term to negotiate the sale and transition of these brands to us. His desire to mentor and give back to an industry that has been good to him is admirable. A great role model for all of us.”

Mark has often said that, considering his humble background, he wasn’t supposed to be a corporate CEO, author of two books, or a radio broadcaster. Asked about his personal shortcomings, he’s reluctant to go there. “I’m not going to talk about those,” he apologizes. “If someone who wants to hire me were to ask that question, I’d respond, ‘Whatever my shortcomings, I’m sure

I HAVE ALWAYS LOVED WORKING WITH MARK. HE KNOWS THE FASHION BUSINESS FROM THE GROUND UP. HE’S LOGICAL, PERSUASIVE, BRIMMING WITH COMMON SENSE, AND FUNNY. AND HE MAKES PARTNERSHIPS WORK!”

–JEFF GENNETTE, CEO, MACYS

Weber’s sons, Jarrod, left, and Jesse, right, have inherited Mark’s penchant for classic navy blue suits.

CONGRATULATIONS TO MARK WEBER

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD HONOREE

you’ll help me identify them and improve.’”

However, he ultimately admits a few weaknesses. “I’m an acquired taste and I know it. I’m not easy. It’s often my way or the highway. I’m outspoken and opinionated, which hasn’t always helped me. I’m not good at company politics. If I’d been a better politician, I’d have had an easier career. And I don’t tolerate fools well, which frequently gets me in trouble.

“In fact, early in my career, I was often considered a good-looking guy in a suit. Nobody thought I had any substance. I was like a running back. Other guys were creating the holes and I ran right through them. But what they didn’t see was my obsession with working harder, with learning disciplines beyond the scope of my responsibilities. I truly believe that’s the key to success.”

GENERATION TO GENERATION

Despite two top exec positions at major corporations, nothing makes Mark prouder than his family. Although he gives most of the parenting credit to his beloved late wife, Susie (“she was the brains of our family: beautiful, smart, with all the right values”), Mark clearly contributed to raising two very accomplished (and really nice) sons: Jarrod (a lawyer and top exec at Authentic Brands Group) and Jesse (also a lawyer and legal adviser on numerous TV programs). “My boys never saw me struggle,” says Mark. “I was the president of a company at age 34. They grew up in Fantasyland. So Susie and I were concerned that the boys wouldn’t have the drive, the hunger, to succeed. So what did we do? We had them join college fraternities where they pledged to be drug- and alcohol-free. We insisted they go to law school, not to work as lawyers necessarily but to provide a strong foundation for whatever came next. We had them intern, at various times, at the PVH offices. It was so important to me that I be a role model for my boys. And just as important that I prove to Susie that she made the right decision marrying me.”

When I first interviewed Mark a few decades back, I teased him about his very regimented wardrobe. He owned a dozen navy blue suits, all identical. Several dozen identical white shirts and navy ties, and numerous pairs of the same black tasseled dress shoes. They were all numbered and he wore them in perfect rotation, always with gold cufflinks and a gold Rolex. Although Mark can now laugh at these sartorial idiosyncrasies, he hasn’t changed all that much, now favoring Ralph Lauren Purple Label suits and sport coats (that he can finally wear since Ralph is no longer a competing label), knit polos, and always white pants in the summer. He’s proud that a change in his fitness routine has helped him lose 57 pounds since Covid, meaning he’s down four sizes in suits and weighs less than he did in college. He walks four miles every day and has never felt better. So, in addition to his radio show, he’s certainly up for another big challenge.

WAlthough he says it in jest, Mark mentions that his sons turned out to be better versions of himself. “When I used to be important, people would knock my kids over to get to me. Now, they knock me over to get to my kids. Which is as it should be! I always thought Jarrod and Jesse would make great senators or congressmen. They’re smart, poised, articulate, with no skeletons in their closets. But they have no interest. The politics these past two decades has turned them off to it.”

Mark claims he’s too old for politics but too young for a Lifetime Achievement Award. So what’s next for him? Along with his radio broadcast, Mark is very much into grandparenting Jarrod’s two little boys, who live nearby. When the first was born, Mark eschewed being called Grandpa and opted instead for DD, short for “Daddy’s Daddy.” Turns out this was the first sound uttered by his first grandson, a sound that still brings him great joy. “The most important thing parents can do for their children is listen to them,” notes Mark. “Make the time and listen.”

That said, we wouldn’t be surprised to see him at yet another top position in the fashion industry. As industry colleague Mike Setola puts it, “Mark Weber: Determined. Laser focused. Eye on the prize always.”

RAISING FINE CHILDREN WHO POSSESS INTEGRITY AND KINDNESS IS AN ACCOMPLISHMENT THAT SURPASSES ANY BUSINESS DEAL. WE CELEBRATE MARK WEBER’S ACHIEVEMENTS IN BOTH BUSINESS AND PARENTING.

–ELIOT PEYSER, CEO, DAVID PEYSER SPORTSWEAR, INC

MR 2023 HALL OF FAME

ROBERT STOCK

DESIGNER/BRAND BUILDER

Creativity Redefined By Karen Alberg Grossman

a beautiful shirt, custom-made for him at a men’s tailor shop on the Grand Concourse. I’d go through his closet and study the designs.”

This fascination led Stock, at age 19, to take a job in a local men’s store, where he first met Ralph Lauren, who had come into the store to hawk his ties. “We kind of connected, so when he opened his first office (a tiny, shared space in the Empire State Building), he invited me to check it out. I showed up and told him it looked great but where was I going to sit? ‘Not yet, but soon,’ Ralph promised. Shortly after, I started working for him. The fact that he believed in me gave me confidence, and I learned a lot from him: perseverance, hard work, to stick to your vision, and to always be yourself. To strive for perfection, never settling or getting discouraged no matter what obstacles you face. At some point, Ralph asked if I wanted to start a moderately priced pants line with him. Since so many companies were knocking him off, he decided to do it himself. And that was the beginning of Chaps.”

RStock ultimately left Lauren to see what he could do on his own. “As much as I learned from him, I couldn’t really do what I wanted. I’d pick a tweed that I loved, and Ralph wanted it for Polo. I didn’t have the freedom I needed at the time.”

So he went to work at a pants company that produced patterned bell bottoms. He launched Country Britches. He licensed his tailored clothing to Lanier, but he also found a licensee in Japan, where he had a great run. In retrospect, however, Stock admits he probably should have stayed with Ralph. “When things started going south—at one point, neither Chaps nor Polo nor tailored clothing was making money—Ralph needed to cut overhead and offered me a nice settlement to leave. To get that kind of money as a 22-year-old kid was tough to turn down. Although a 5 percent share in Polo would have been a better deal—who could have imagined that Polo would become a $5 billion business?”

“IT’S ALWAYS ABOUT the team,” declares designer and entrepreneur Robert Stock. “Nobody gets to the top without people helping them. A great quarterback without a great offensive line cannot be successful.”

Stock cites a long list of people who’ve contributed to his successful career over the past half century, including Ralph Lauren, Paul Ressler, Steve Sheiner, Steve Tanger, Chuck Hellman, Neal Fox, Sean Hieter, Russ Patrick, Graham Fowler, Tom Main, Bill Sweedler, Andrew Rosen, Bob Gary, Henry Grethel, Alan Sirkin, Steven Wax, George Wechsler, Franklin Simon, Marvin Traub, Miller Harris, Michael Sandler, Hicks Lanier… and so many more.

Stock’s creative journey continued through the decades and well into the 21st century. (The outrageous stories of his travels as a young man to Italy, Japan, and India could fill a book.) His greatest successes included a line of silk shirts that became a $100 million business in the 1990s. His pride and joy, however, was Robert Graham, a shirt-turnedlifestyle collection and true game changer for the menswear industry. Within this brand (launched in 2001 with Graham Fowler), Stock also established Robert’s Club, a collector’s division of limited edition colorful, intricately decorated men’s shirts that garnered a large and loyal following. “I’m grateful to all the buyers who believed in this unconventional brand early on and the amazing mills in India, the land of embroidery, madras, fine fancy fabrics, color, texture, and haute decoration. When I first traveled there, they were weaving the fabrics on peddle machines because regular blackouts demanded a production backup. I’d go to these small villages and sleep on a cot in a hut, waiting for the fabrics. At first,

But let’s start with the reasons Stock got into fashion in the first place: 1) he wasn’t a good student, and 2) his father (who owned a gas station in the Bronx) truly enjoyed and appreciated men’s fashion. “He’d come home from work each night, take a hot shower, and show up for dinner wearing

LOVE TO COLLECT

retailers were unsure about shirts with contrast trim and fancy buttons. But then the buyers at Fred Segal bought virtually every style, and then Neiman’s, Nordstrom, and Bloomingdale’s jumped on board as did so many great specialty stores. It just kept growing. But after 10, 12, 14 years, even the most loyal buyers would come into the showroom kind of skeptical. How long could this run continue? One must know when to change and when to move on.”

In addition to being a five-time fashion award winner (including Coty, Cutty Sark, and American Image awards), how does one describe Robert Stock?

Says Donnie Wechsler of Mine Apparel, “I first met Robert when my dad, a fabric exec, brought me to one of Ralph’s fashion shows. I’ll never forget it. Robert was wearing a tux with tuxedo-inspired Bermuda shorts. That’s actually the only thing I remember from that event! Later, I worked with Robert at Country Britches. He was the first to create seasonal color palettes, adding new accent colors for each monthly delivery. In this way, the new shades blended with the previous colors for a cohesive presentation that looked fresh every month. Robert has always been a leader, not following trends but creating them. His most famous venture was Robert Graham, where his genius for using mixed media still plays a role, even after 20+ years.”

Says retailer Pat Mon Pere from Patrick James, “I first met Robert at the Robert Graham booth during a show in Las Vegas. We did—and continue to do—a lot of business with Robert Graham. Robert was obviously the creative genius and soul of the brand. He has a wealth of knowledge and has had so many interesting stops in his career, I could listen to his stories all night long.”

Russ Patrick, SVP/GMM at Neiman Marcus adds,“Our long-term partnership

with Robert Stock spans more than two decades. We cherish our visits to the Robert Graham showroom, discovering the countless hidden details designed into his unique products. Our clients love to collect his limited-edition shirts, many of which were sold by Robert himself, during his popular personal appearances.”

Asked to describe himself, Stock notes that he’s a big sports fan and loves listening to music, reading, and doing research on various topics. He also maintains that as much as he loves to have fun, he’s actually pretty mellow these days. And, in his humble opinion, “like a fine wine, growing better with age.” If he could change one thing about himself, he’d choose to be more patient and less judgmental, understanding that no one is perfect and that it’s better to accept people for both their strengths and their weaknesses.

About our industry’s future, Stock is optimistic. “Everyone’s experimenting with new approaches, from sustainability, TikTok, and A.I. to the explosion of online influence in sales and marketing. There’s now a place in our menswear world for multiple concepts: tailored clothing, joggers, elevated streetwear, perhaps a new American jean revolution. But what the industry is most clearly offering these days is youth. There are lots of small companies out there, wholesale and retail, that are really pretty cool. Whether they make it or not is another thing, but it’s much easier to start a company today than it was 20 years ago. You can put a line together, make samples, and thanks to the internet, you’re in business. Despite challenges, it’s an exciting time for our industry to rebuild and reposition itself.”

Asked to describe a perfect day, Stock responds in two words: “waking up.” He thinks for a moment longer and then adds: “Perfect to me is spending time with the people who matter most: my wife, Nancy; my daughter, Rebecca; my son, Benjamin; my sister and brother-in-law; and my wonderful long-time friends. Without their love and devoted support through both good and tough times, I’d never have become the person I am today.”

I NEVER LOOKED AT WHAT OTHER DESIGNERS WERE DOING: I WANTED TO BE A STEP AHEAD.

–ROBERT STOCK

Retailer Chuck Hellman describes Stock as “a mentor, an amazing talent, and a truly gentle soul.”

NEIMAN MARCUS CLIENTS

ROBERT’S LIMITED-EDITION SHIRTS, MANY OF WHICH WERE SOLD BY ROBERT HIMSELF, DURING HIS POPULAR PERSONAL APPEARANCES.

–RUSS PATRICK, NEIMAN MARCUS

We are proud to recognize our Founder, Robert Stock, as he is inducted into the MR Hall of Fame.

Thank you for envisioning a brand that allows confidence & creativity to be fashionably heard.

INSPIRING COLLECTORS SINCE 2001

SAL CESARANI DESIGNER & TEACHER

Shaping the Next Generation

By Karen Alberg Grossman

It wasn’t always easy, but I learned a lot. Cliff Grodd was tough and a bit intimidating, but he made me smarter. I truly loved working for Ralph, but as a perfectionist, even early in his career, he was quite demanding.

How would you describe your design aesthetic?

Since graduating from FIT in 1961, I’ve designed clothes for men and women that evoke my vision of the American Dream.

As you look back on your career, what were the best and worst of times?

BORN TO PARENTS who were both tailors in Italy, it might seem that triple Coty award winner Sal Cesarani (born and raised in New York City, educated at the High School of Fashion Industries and FIT) was destined for fashion greatness. In fact, he’s described by some colleagues as an unsung hero of our industry, tremendously talented but never fully elevated to the stature he deserves. Sal might beg to differ: his many years of teaching at Parsons School of Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology have been all the accolades he needs. Seeing his students succeed in the industry, says Sal, is as good as it gets.

How would you describe yourself to someone who doesn’t know you?

I’m an American designer and adjunct professor teaching students about the craft of fashion design. My training began at home with my Italian immigrant parents, who were tailors by trade. I continued in their footsteps by going to the High School of Fashion Industries, where I fell in love with my sweetheart, Nancy. Together, we created a family with two beautiful children who have each successfully managed their own families and careers. My daughter, Lisa, was until recently assistant dean at NYU and now lives with her husband in Italy. My son, Chris, is a lawyer who works for the City of New York. He and his wife, Rebecca, have given me a beautiful granddaughter, Sofia, now 10 years old.

Talk a bit about your career path.

After graduating from FIT in 1961, my first job was in the display department at Paul Stuart. Sometime later, I was hired to launch a women’s collection for Ralph Lauren. I also helped launch Country Britches when it was first sold to Joseph & Feiss. But ultimately, I became frustrated being unable to use my own name on my designs, so I left to start Cesarani, a collaboration with Nancy. You’ve worked with some menswear greats. What was that like?

The best times were when I was able to communicate my stylistic concepts by creating collections that were well received by retailers and consumers. I’ve always adhered to the highest standards in terms of fabrics and craftsmanship; when this was recognized and appreciated, it was very rewarding.

One high point while working for Ralph was helping to get his clothing featured in The Great Gatsby movie. Photographs suddenly appeared on virtually every cover of every fashion magazine. Another highlight was the overwhelming response after a Cesarani runway show for a womenswear piece that I’d introduced: a beautiful dusty pink charmeuse tuxedo blouse, a soft, feminine interpretation of a man’s traditional formalwear staple. In a class of its own was being asked to do the ceremonial uniforms for the U.S. Olympic team at Lake Placid. I’ve had many truly great moments, for which I’m grateful.

A low point was a trademark lawsuit involving my Cesarani womenswear that lasted four years. When I finally won that case in court, it confirmed that a designer’s creative work is unique to that designer, and that contracts are agreements to be respected. Unfortunately, that’s not always the case. Lesson learned: Designers need to be acutely aware of the terms of their contracts and never back down if those terms are not upheld.

Of course, the true worst of times was losing my wife and soulmate: Nancy died from pancreatic cancer in 2011. But even in my most difficult life moments, I recognize that I’ve been blessed. I’ve been able to transform personal sorrow into opportunities to give back. After losing Nancy, I focused on charitable activities to raise funds to find a cure for pancreatic cancer. Even today, as recently appeared in the news, progress has been made on new vaccines.

TAKE EVERY TRIUMPH, FRUSTRATION, AND FAILURE AS PART OF AN OVERALL LEARNING PROCESS. –SAL CESARANI

As the menswear world evolves, what is your crystal ball indicating about tailored clothing?

Every generation lives through difficult times. The pandemic was a game changer that drastically altered dress codes for office attire. That said, clothing is an essential part of our lives, and a suit, essentially jacket and trousers, will always be a wardrobe staple and symbol of respect. Of course, the physical workplace is changing, and many men who work remotely (and those who work in offices) are opting for sportswear separates. However, a finely tailored jacket and well-fitting pants will remain key components of men’s wardrobes.

Your best advice to young people coming into the industry?

My advice to students is to learn the “business” of fashion, not just the designing and crafting. This means interning, volunteering, and working at places that match your design aesthetic as closely as possible. Start at the beginning and work your way up to continue the learning process. Go to museums and art shows to perpetuate your creativity. This is a competitive and difficult business. When we look at fashion, on runways or online, we see only a small part of the total picture. Find mentors, look to school alumni associations, and network through friend connections. Don’t get discouraged if success doesn’t come right away: take every triumph, frustration, and failure as part of an overall learning process.

What might make it easier for young people to break into the fashion world?

THAT’S WHAT FRIENDS ARE FOR

Joe Barrato has been close friends with Sal for more than half a century. “When you know someone for almost 55 years, that special friendship and bond will always be there. We met at Polo when Ralph hired Sal as his design assistant. We bonded immediately. Sal’s passion, vision, design talent, and commitment to Polo and Ralph Lauren were the beginning of a unique period at Polo. And a great step toward a very successful career, including several Coty awards.

“Perhaps overlooked is his humanitarianism. When his beloved wife, Nancy, died of cancer, Sal created a charity in her name to raise money and awareness. His dedication to his students as a professor at FIT and Parsons is exceptional.”

CFDA’s Steven Kolb is also a long-time friend. “Sal is an unsung legend of our industry. His contributions to American menswear are significant. He’s mainly known for expert tailoring, pulling inspiration from sports and British style. He’s a passionate educator and, as a professor at Parsons, has shaped the careers of many of today’s young designers. CFDA is proud to count Sal among our members.”

Sal brings his creative outlook and sunny disposition everywhere.

I believe it’s the responsibility of our fashion industry to cultivate the next generation. By approaching fashion design schools and providing students with mentorships and internships, manufacturers and retailers can demystify the process and encourage young talented people on their design journey. Potential internships can come from trade shows, color forecasting services, textile design, PR, advertising, and retail. These would provide students with a realistic look at what this business is truly like. With their creativity and digital know-how, today’s students have the potential to become great assets to our industry. They just need the opportunity.

What have you learned from your years of teaching at Parsons and FIT?

I’ve learned to be more open-minded. I’ve probably learned as much from my students as they’ve learned from me.

How do you want to be remembered?

My legacy is in teaching future generations all that I’ve learned. Nancy encouraged me to do that, so that’s what I’ll do, for as long as I can do it.

Few people know Sal as well as Walter Duffy Hickey, of Hickey Freeman fame. “My first encounter with Sal was at a Men’s Fashion Association meeting at Mount Airy Lodge in the Poconos. I bumped into him and his son, Chris, while we were out jogging. I was immediately impressed as he talked about his business. I marveled at his energy, stamina, and concept of design—all while jogging at the crack of dawn.

“I’ve always found Sal to be a unique designer. He’s able to transport designs of past decades into contemporary and very salable apparel, always ensuring the fabrics and components blend perfectly and are properly costed to sell at retail.

“Although I’ve been retired from the apparel business for several years, I still have dinners with Sal at small but special restaurants around the city to catch up on life. Sal’s most notable traits—exuberance and caring for others—remain ever intact. Style, talent, and generosity of spirit—a remarkable man is Sal Cesarani!”

MR

2023 MERCHANT OF THE YEAR: DEPARTMENT STORE

TINA ANIVERSARIO

NORDSTROM

Merchant Activist

By Karen Alberg Grossman

the Nordstrom mystique, both girls ended up working there.

“I was 15 and a half and wanted to drive, but my mom said I’d have to pay for my own car insurance. So, my older sister, who was already working at Nordstrom, got me a job in the stockroom. I actually loved it. The money was decent, and I was good at it. This was before the digital era when there was a math component to taking inventory and doing markdowns, which I enjoyed.” She worked in the stockroom through high school and then moved to the selling floor, a job for which her outgoing personality was well suited. When a position with double the responsibility opened in young men’s, she jumped on the chance to learn something new.

NORDSTROM VP/DMM TINA

ANIVERSARIO describes herself as fun, loyal, curious, strong-willed, customer-obsessed, and willing to fight for what she believes in. “At the core of all my decisions,” she says, “is our customers and how to better serve them.”

Although she didn’t dream of a career in retail, Tina has always been a natural leader and strong decision maker. “Early on, I thought I’d be a lawyer or a veterinarian,” she confides, noting that her mom is a CPA at a law firm and her late dad was an aeronautic engineer who worked for Boeing and Northrop.

Born in Seattle and growing up in Huntington Beach, CA, Tina (a die-hard beach lover) would shop for Levi’s at Miller’s Outpost or Mervyn’s. Ignoring the latest fashion trends, her favorite outfit was (and still is) a white T-shirt and jeans worn with Dr. Martens or Vans. She came to know Nordstrom only because her mom, born in Seattle, was a loyal Nordstrom shopper who would drag her daughters to Seattle’s upscale emporium to buy them shoes. Struck by

Now VP/DMM of menswear, Tina oversees men’s apparel for 94 Nordstrom stores, 249 Rack stores, 7 Nordstrom Local stores, 2 clearance stores, and online. Although the business has changed significantly since Covid (and Nordstrom has recently closed stores in Canada and San Francisco), Tina is excited about the notably healthy sales trend in men’s. “The big challenge now is how to reimagine the composition of our offering without swinging the pendulum too far in either direction. That’s the hard part. Men are usually the first to stop shopping in a tenuous economy, but post-Covid, men seem to have jumped right back in. Thankfully, there are still plenty of guys not quite there yet, so I believe the momentum we’ve established will continue.”

As to what they’ve jumped back into, Tina describes the look as polished casual. “Before Covid, men had a weekday closet and a weekend closet. Today, there’s just one versatile closet, which can take guys ‘from dusk to dinner, park to pub, golf course to cocktails.’ It’s always about food and drinks when marketing to men! It’s now a hybrid wardrobe that often includes a third piece, be it a cashmere cardigan or a quilted vest.

“That said, we’re still selling lots of suits, and not just for special occasions. But today’s suits are lighter and less structured, most often worn with a knit crew or polo, usually without a tie except for occasions.”

Tina contends that tailored clothing is back to being a strong year-round business. “Men are looking at the uniform a little differently these days, embracing tailored because they want to, not because they have to. I give much credit to the NBA for elevating its dress codes—when guys see all these star athletes looking so great in tailored suits, it influences how they want to dress.”

Tina credits her team for their work ethic and creativity. She herself is widely respected for her integrity, risk-taking, and unique ability to form partnerships. “We’re in a people business,” she states emphatically. “This industry is all about relationships. Because I believe that integrity is so important—it’s one of Nordstrom’s core values—of course I try to be as transparent as possible. I tell people the truth, even if it’s not the message they want to hear.

“I believe retailer/vendor relationships have evolved in recent years. They used to be transactional. Now they must also be mutually beneficial. Nordstrom’s track

MARK HARRIS

record of long sustained relationships with leading brands proves that we understand the give and take of enduring partnerships.”

Asked about those “partners” that sell to upscale stores many of the same styles they then discount on their websites, Tina responds thoughtfully. “We don’t compete with our vendors. We partner with them,” she replies, referring to brands that sell D2C online and those that have opened their own stores. “In many cases, customers don’t know or care about the business model. They just want to buy their favorite brands at their favorite store. We’ve earned their loyalty thanks to our very strong service model: well-trained professional sales help, quick and easy returns at a Nordstrom or Rack store, curbside pickup, etc. In most cases, our brands let us know when they plan to go on sale so we can choose to meet their discounted prices or not. In some cases, especially if we’ve made a big investment, their sales will exclude the pieces we bought from them. Most often, partnership means the brand works with us, not just on maintaining price but on driving traffic, topline growth, and creating sales momentum.”

Says Scott Ruerup of Peter Millar, “It has been an incredible journey over the last 12 years working with Tina. Her dedication, professionalism, and expertise have always inspired me. I truly value the support, trust and camaraderie we’ve developed over the years, and am grateful to work alongside such an amazing merchant.”

Alan Victor of Jack Victor agrees. “I’ve known Tina for 10 years and watched her take on increasing menswear responsibilities while moving up within Nordstrom’s management team. As a supplier, we truly value her intrinsic character traits: integrity, transparency, and an ability to communicate her vision.”

Patrick Heitkam of AllSaints and Varvatos is a big fan. “She’s a fantastic example to women of how to thrive in the men’s fashion biz while being yourself the entire time. I also appreciate that she’s always willing to give a team member or vendor partner time to share their thoughts, concerns, ideas. She’s truly a servant-leader, seeking out win-win solutions every time.”

Although there’s no typical day in Tina’s work schedule, she spends much time at team meetings, vendor meetings, corporate meetings, trade shows (these days, the Chicago Collective tops the list), and visiting as many Nordstrom stores as she can get to, a definite priority of late. A particular pleasure for her these days is interacting with the young emerging brands she helped bring to Nordstrom through their DEIB (Diversity, Equity, 4

Nordstrom’s NYC Men’s Store merges luxury designer goods with young emerging brands.

Congrats to an amazing group of honorees:

Tina Aniversario

H. Craig DeLongy

Jason & Jesse Meyer, Tim & Heather Ellis

Bruce Schedler

And all of the MR Awards Honorees

Thank you for all of the incredible support over the 10 last years.

Inclusion, Belonging) initiatives, including the 15 Percent Pledge. “I’m honored to be part of the success we’ve had from identifying and growing small emerging brands, helping them find some scale to get their brand out to more customers. Two examples among many are Honor the Gift, a young brand founded on self-belief and dedication to never stop working toward your greatness, and Market, an LA label with a focus on music-inspired graphic tees—Bob Marley, the Grateful Dead, Erykah Badu. Both brands were founded by young, ambitious creatives who are super excited to be part of Nordstrom, super excited and super proud. Considering our many shared values, it’s wonderful to build these businesses together.”

Asked about her successes and failures, Tina is a bit uncomfortable with the question. “Accomplishments include my family—my husband, daughter, dogs—and the long-term friendships and relationships I’ve made in my business world. As for failures, I have a hard time with this question, partly because I’ve made too many mistakes to list here, but more because I believe in ‘fail fast and move on.’ Fail fast, learn from your mistakes, and don’t let it deter you from taking risks. Like I always tell my team—we’re in the fashion business, we’re not saving lives. And we won’t get anywhere if we don’t try new things. When it comes to failures, my favorite expression is ‘This too shall pass.’”

Aside from being a risk-taker, Tina is a social activist, always fighting for

equal rights for women and minorities. What drives this activism? As a first generation American on her father’s side (her late dad was born in the Philippines), she recognized early on that diversity makes us stronger. “Since diversity exists within our communities, a diverse vendor base will better serve our customers. At Nordstrom, we’re strongly committed to grow with brands that represent our community. Our in-store goal is to create a place where customers and employees feel welcome and appreciated and can be fully themselves.

“As a company, we’ve set very ambitious goals. These include delivering by 2025 more than $500 million in retail sales for brands owned and operated by Black and Latinx individuals. We signed the 15 Percent Pledge in 2021 and plan to increase Black and Latinx representation in people/manager roles by at least 50 percent by end-2025. We’ve joined a multiyear corporate partnership with the National Urban League, a historic civil rights organization, and we’re leveraging our internship program with a goal of 50 percent coming from underrepresented populations. We plan to double our charitable giving to nonprofits that promote anti-racism, bringing the total to about $1 million per year for the next five years. And this year, we partnered with the Folklore Group to bring the best in global fashion closer to the Nordstrom customer. Through the Folklore Connect platform, a first-of-its-kind e-commerce tool, Nordstrom will be better able to identify and engage with wholesale fashion and lifestyle brands founded by Black, Latinx, Asian, and other people of color, as well as brands located in emerging markets.”

Whew! Sounds like a lot of important changes, far more than most stores have committed to at this time. Clearly, Nordstrom has given much thought to who they want to be as a company, with initiatives that will surely change the world.

“It’s a start,” says Tina, with considerable pride. “But there’s always room for improvement.”

WE DON’T COMPETE WITH OUR VENDORS. WE PARTNER WITH THEM.

–TINA ANIVERSARIO

I’VE WATCHED TINA ANIVERSARIO AT NORDSTROM BUILD AN AMAZING BUSINESS AND NURTURE MANY CAREERS. SHE IS A STRONG WOMAN AND VERY DESERVING OF THIS AWARD.

–WENDY THOMPSON, MAJESTIC

NYC: July 21st-25th

Dallas: July 29th-31st

Chicago: August 6th-8th

CONTACT

Paul R. Poole: prpoole@mac.com

https://lookbook.hiltl.de/en

H. CRAIG DeLONGY

JOHN CRAIG CLOTHIER

Entrepreneur & Team Builder

By Karen Alberg Grossman

Millar, Greyson, Martin Dingman, and many others. The newest issue of his gorgeous John Craig magazine lists more than 70 impressive brands.

H. CRAIG DELONGY NEVER intended to be a retailer: as a young man, he was obsessed with golf and wanted only to become a professional golfer. After serving as a golf pro at a country club in Missouri, he moved to Florida in 1974, where he became one of the original owners of Champs Sports. “At one point, I was partial owner of 11 stores, one in Wichita, Kansas, which is where I’m from. But we sold out in 1985 and I opened Craig’s Sports. I always had a good eye for merchandising and understood the importance of focusing on the details.”

After playing golf at Pinehurst one day, Craig wandered into a terrific men’s store called Gentleman’s Corner, where he met and then shared a beer with Chris Knott. “I told Chris that several of the big sporting goods chains were moving into town, and I decided to close the sporting goods store and open John Craig. I learned so much from Chris about the men’s retail business. As I did from Fred Derring when I joined DLS. I’d never been to New York City, and Fred drew me a map that showed the exact location of all my appointments, 30 minutes apart. I opened John Craig in March 1996 and business was good. But it wasn’t until 1998, when Martin Bradshaw sold me Canali, that things really took off. Then in 2005, we were listed on Esquire’s Top 100 list, and everyone wanted to sell to us!”

His total store count is now seven, soon to be eight; five are John Craig stores, each with a slightly different focus depending on location and customer base. His vendor list reads like a who’s who of top collections: Kiton, Samuelsohn, Jack Victor, Munro, Canali, DiBianco, Eton, Emanuel Berg, Brax, Waterville, Peter

Craig talks excitedly about his most recent venture: a John Craig store at the World Equestrian Center in Ocala, a Disney World for horse lovers. “It’s 11,000 acres and has the largest square footage of air-conditioned stables in the world. The fivestar Equestrian Hotel, where our store will be housed, boasts 294 rooms. A second hotel will have 396 rooms. Larry and Mary Roberts did all this in two years. I’ve never seen anything like it! If I do half as well there as people say I will, I’ll be delighted. In addition to the horses, there’s the Golden Ocala Country Club, with 1,000 members and no menswear competition in sight. We open on September 1.”

Having experienced some ups and downs with store locations over the years, Craig has learned to go with the flow, taking calculated risks to ensure consistent growth but not mourning any losses. Not even a million-dollar loss in sales when Hurricane Ian hit his John Craig and Carter & Finley stores in downtown Naples dampened his enthusiasm: Craig started booking builders the very next day, seeing it as an opportunity to make upgrades.

Among his retail success secrets, Craig has tremendous respect for his employees and pays them accordingly. “Our business is successful thanks to our staff. This is their career, and we want them to stay for a long time, so we pay them what they’re worth based on their experience and performance. Everyone who works for us is family.”

Other tricks of the trade: sales contests, awards, and bonuses. “We have monthly selling contests, and vendors are happy to participate. We have annual awards with financial prizes: Employee of the Year, Manager of the Year, Store of the Year. At our annual Christmas dinner, each employee gets recognized individually. All

our sellers are on some type of commission, plus we have one or two assistants in every store whose job is supporting the sellers rather than selling. If one of our sellers has a $10,000 sale, I don’t want him/her worrying about re-folding shirts. Although even our lead sellers are responsible for ensuring our stores always look top-notch.”

When asked what he’s most proud of, Craig’s immediate response is “my family.” This means Suzanne, his wife and business partner for 46 years; his daughter and John Craig VP, Blair; and his son, Brant, who operates his brokerage business out of Craig’s office and shares a love of golf with his dad. Although not involved in the day-to-day operations of the stores, Brant serves as part of Craig’s counsel. “He has great taste and is wise in business matters.

I truly value his input and wisdom.”

Blair is a vital part of John Craig and

its future. Says Craig, “I’ve watched her over the years, and I can’t help but admire how she handles herself and how well-respected she’s become. Just the other day, she was working a line she liked, and the salesman told her he needed the order immediately. She responded, ‘My dad would be very upset with me if I placed the order at the appointment.’ But more than what she’s learned from me, Blair has tremendous talent on her own. MR magazine asked her to be on their Advisory Board. In all these years, they’ve never asked me!

“Success is all about partnerships. I’m partnered with Ed Scott and Jim Wilson at Retail One, a management company offering financial and consulting expertise, and Steve and Matt Pruitt at Blacks Retail, a leader in retail forecasting and projections. Between these advisers, our team, and our vendors, we’re exceeding my dreams and expectations.”

Those who know Craig well share some insights. Says Steve Pruitt from Blacks Retail, “I’ve known Craig for years, and he knows what he likes. He has a real passion for the business and an enthusiasm for success. He truly understands his customers and knows how to motivate his sales team to reach their full potential. These traits are what make him a great merchant.”

Fred Derring and Virginia Sandquist from DLS agree. “Craig and Blair are among the few retailers to establish younger formats so customers can grow into John Craig from the Current and Carter & Finley stores. Their devotion to fashion combined with the highest level of service is exceptional. Plus, Craig is always willing to share his knowledge with the group.”

Says Martin Bradshaw at Ravazzolo, “Craig’s strength is his ability to create and execute a strong merchandising strategy. He inspires his customers via compelling product assortments, powerful visual displays, and motivated leadership teams. John Craig is a great example of a family-run business elevating multiple markets

MY SELF-CONFIDENCE IS SOMETIMES MISTAKEN FOR COCKINESS, BUT I NEVER INTEND TO UPSET ANYONE OR FORCE MY OPINIONS.

–CRAIG DELONGY

Color engages customers, at the John Craig shop in Jupiter, Florida.

HIS CUSTOMERS VIA COMPELLING ASSORTMENTS, POWERFUL VISUAL DISPLAYS AND MOTIVATED LEADERSHIP TEAMS. –MARTIN BRADSHAW, RAVAZZOLO

by building a dynamic store brand and creating a true shopping experience.”

Chris Knott from Johnnie-O has been a friend for years. “Craig DeLongy elevated Florida specialty retail as the larger regional store chains started closing. Blair joining Craig in the business was a “win-win” for John Craig, and for the industry: the two of them figured out the marketplace quickly. They’ve hired professional people to run the stores, and everyone seems to love working with the family. Johnnie-O is thrilled to be a part of this success story.”

And from Ed Scott at Retail One Group: “My first visit to see a John Craig store was more than 20 years ago. I knew right away that this was one of the best-looking stores I’d ever visited. Craig’s taste level is exceptional. He believed in

color way before it became popular. I really got to know Craig when he joined Retail One Group. At first, we were skeptical to let him join, mainly because we thought he was unlikely to listen to anything we might suggest. But he proved me wrong. Although he can come across as arrogant, he backs it up with results. He has a genuine love for this business that’s unmatched by anyone I know. I also find Craig to be a very caring person. His love for his family and his employees is a good part of why he’s successful.”

What keeps Craig up at night? “I don’t worry about much these days, except my wife’s health,” he confides. “Suzanne has been living with Parkinson’s for 28 years. She’s doing well right now. Her medication is working, and her doctors are pleased with her recent progress. She’s the strongest person I know, but of course I worry.”

Yes, he does. One can see it in his eyes as he talks about Suzanne with tremendous love. Still, Craig’s reputation for being social, with a unique ability to engage anyone and everyone in conversation, is still intact. “My kids make fun of the fact that wherever I go, I have conversations with strangers. But isn’t that what retailers do, engage people? We have to, in order to build relationships, which is what it’s all about. In 27 years, we’ve shared a lot of life events with our customers: attending their weddings, celebrating the birth of their children, going to the graduations, outfitting those kids for their weddings, and then watching as they became parents themselves. It’s a special connection.”

Editor’s note: At the East 53rd Street bistro where we did this interview, Craig is discussing the price of martinis with the bartender. He shares that the last time he visited NYC, the martini at Nello was $30; this one is only $18, a fair price in his opinion.

Engaging to the max: that’s the intrinsic talent of this very special merchant.

At John Craig, it’s all about the team.

From the top, Heather Ellis, Jason Meyer, Jesse Meyer, and Tim Ellis.

BY MARK HARRIS

MR 2023 MERCHANTS OF THE YEAR: CONTEMPORARY STORE

MILWORKS JASON AND JESSE MEYER, TIM

AND HEATHER ELLIS

The style that made Milwaukee famous By John Russel Jones

the truth. While some big ecommerce retailers carry some of the same brands, none has the same sense of curation. Their vision is the most important thing about them.”

From the start, Milworks carried Alden, Filson, and Levi’s Vintage Collection. Classic brands that are directional, but not overly trendy. Heading into the store’s eighth year, the group has a solid read on its customer.

MILWORKS WAS STARTED in the fall of 2015 by four friends, two who happen to be brothers, and two who happen to be married: Jason and Jesse Meyer, and Tim and Heather Ellis.

This is the second retail endeavor for the Meyer brothers. Michael Kreiman of Black Dog 8 Showroom shares that the two were both professional snowboarders who lived in Lake Tahoe for a while. The two moved a lot when they were younger—including a stint in Hawaii where they became accomplished surfers—and they opened a skate shop while still teenagers living in Milwaukee!

Eventually, the brothers got onto the wholesale side and operated a sales agency, but as store spokesman Jason says, “Once you’re in retail, you always have that bug.”

The agency represented brands like Faherty, Grayers, Raleigh Denim, and Milwaukee-based Thorogood Boots.

“We had great, great brands and just loved what we did. Our territory stretched from Wisconsin to Texas, and we got to visit so many great retailers. When we got the idea for Milworks, we weren’t reinventing the wheel. We were taking a lot of cool ideas from some very creative people. The East and West Coasts each have fantastic stores, but there are some great ones in the middle that a lot of people forget about.

“We recognized that there was a void for better casual in the market, and we love Americana. Not only great US brands and—as much as we can—made in USA brands, but we also love Japanese brands because they do Americana so well. We love that aesthetic, that vibe. We always wanted to have one foot in classic menswear but another where we felt menswear was going.”

Kreiman says that he met Jason and Jesse through their business partner Tim. “Tim is one of my best friends. We’d been trying to develop more of a contemporary business back then, and they were one store we really wanted to get involved with. We share Midwestern roots [Kreiman is from Minnesota], and these guys are the essence of a Midwestern stereotype. They’re nice, down-to-earth, and will tell you

“Our guy is 30 to 55 plus. He tends to be comfortable in his career, usually in something creative, especially in our neighborhood,” says Jason. “There’s a lot of marketing firms and software companies, so he’s either in those worlds or he’s an entrepreneur. A lot are married with families. They’ve always been into style and are conscious of how they look. They’re comfortable and they know what they like, and they’re able to buy what they want at this point in their lives.

“We all get to an age—and I’m as guilty of it as anybody—where we have a uniform and like what we like. I remember hearing so many times when I was selling product to stores, that they would be bummed out if the same thing wasn’t offered, maybe in a different colorway or whatever, year after year, because they had guys who would return every season and buy five or six of whatever it was.

So we are guilty of that, too. We like to have a lot of the same product in here for the guy that comes back and gets the

same jeans twice a season or the same type of shirt a couple times a year. Maybe it’s just an updated color, but he knows what he likes and he knows he can come back to us and get that. Obviously, we have to inject a little newness, so we always do that as well.”

The foursome started the store with three tiers right from the beginning: brick-and-mortar, ecommerce, and their own Milworks house label.

“We have all three sticks in the fire,” Jason says, “and absolutely love it. Having our own label gives us a little bit of a creative outlet.”

“Milwaukee is a smallish big city. You know with the burbs we’re maybe a million and a half, but we are only an hour and 15 minutes from Chicago. It’s

not uncommon for people to go down there for a day trip on Saturday or Sunday, and vice versa. There weren’t a lot of men’s shops, so we felt that competition wasn’t going to be an issue, and it wasn’t as far as any kind of territory issues with getting brands or anything like that. Friends of ours own Harley’s, which is a well-known men’s store in the industry, and other friends own Moda3. We’re all in the same neighborhood and we all sit in different spaces. And, because we’re all friends, if somebody walks in here and doesn’t love something, we’re like, ‘Oh, hey, go check out our friends over at…’

“I’m also a huge fan of ‘the more the merrier.’ If more stores pop up, I think it’s better for everybody.”

Harley’s (a past MR award winner, though now under different ownership) partner Jeff Brand says, “Jason and Jesse work tirelessly to provide the very best in Americana and slow fashion to the metro Milwaukee area. I get the privilege to have them close by and get to see and talk to them on a weekly basis. Their attention to detail and taste level is unmatched. I always appreciate their curated point of view and cannot wait to see what the future has in store for them.”

How does the team handle working together as family and friends?

“A heck of a lot better than people would think. Tim and Heather are based in Portland, Oregon, so we chat on the computer a lot and see each other at the shows all the time. They come to Milwaukee, and we go there just to get together and connect. That has always been a great relationship.

“Boy, my brother and I— we’ve worked together a lot. We’re yin and yang to each other. So if I get giddy about something, he shoots it down, and vice versa. Yes, we do butt heads and disagree about things, but there’s respect and understanding there. We give each other a little space, let it cool down a little bit, then chat about it again, and it’s always worked out. With Tim and Heather, if we’re pleading our case, or they’re pleading theirs, we lay out the facts, and we all figure it out. We all look at it objectively, see what works. Knock on wood, getting into our eighth year, everything has worked out well doing it that way. I feel fortunate that we’re all able to have that relationship.”

WHEN WE GOT THE IDEA FOR MILWORKS, WE WEREN’T REINVENTING THE WHEEL. WE WERE TAKING A LOT OF COOL IDEAS FROM SOME VERY CREATIVE PEOPLE. –JASON MEYER

Milworks homey interior reflects its proprietors’ deep love for Americana.

MARK HARRIS

MR 2023 PEOPLE’S CHOICE

BRUCE SCHEDLER

CHICAGO COLLECTIVE As Real As They Come!

By Karen Alberg Grossman

“PEOPLE COME INTO our lives for many reasons,” says designer Edward Armah about Bruce Schedler, the admittedly shy, unassuming guy who’s been running the Chicago Collective for several decades and is credited with making it the premier men’s trade show in America. “After 14 years, I now know that Bruce came into my life to shape, guide, and inspire me. He came along to show me that there are indeed people who genuinely care about others, even though they might not be family or look like them.

“Bruce is an extraordinary man with passion for his work and compassion for people,” Edward continues. “He always puts the needs of his clients first. His seamless way of building relationships makes him the friend/brother we’d all love to have. Candid and genuine, Bruce is as real as they come.”

Richard Binder from 34 Heritage agrees. “I’ve known Bruce for 30 years and he always goes the extra mile to help every vendor who has an issue. He’s a sincere person who really cares about others. A great listener, he always responds with upfront answers, even if it’s not what you want to hear. He’s gained tremendous respect from the retail community, traveling from big cities to small towns in order to get to know the store owners.”

Bruce always wanted to be in an apparel-related business. Born in Wausau, Wisconsin, the youngest of three brothers with a younger sister, he always loved clothes. As a kid, his outfit of choice was a blazer, a dark shirt, and a white tie. “Since there were no white ties available in Wausau, my grandmother would make them for me. It was confusing to my parents, their ten-year-old son wanting to dress up. Of course, my brothers made fun of me.”

(One of these brothers went on to design missile defense systems for the military, the other is a wealth management guy, and their sister is a dental hygienist—four very impressive careers. But all the boys worked through high school at their dad’s building supply company, loading trucks and doing other physically exhausting tasks, thereby developing a strong work ethic.)

In search of an apparel-related career, Bruce walked into a small independent store in Wausau, asked for a job, and started out selling Levi’s. This piqued his interest in retail but failed to

offer much growth potential. So he asked his brother in Minnesota for the name of the best store in town, which happened to be Cedric’s, an upscale family apparel business with multiple locations. Against all odds (he lived out of town and knew nothing about the luxury market), Bruce somehow got the job. “Can you imagine going from selling Levi’s to selling Armani and Corneliani? I didn’t know a drop from an inseam, but I worked hard, learned as much as I could, and grew to love the business.”

When Bruce decided to cross over to wholesale, Cedric called Ken Hoffman, then president of Hart Schaffner Marx in Chicago, who gave Bruce a spot on their training program. “That was the start of everything for me,” Bruce confides. “The people were amazing, and I learned so much from them. I also met my wife, Francesca, on the job. I proposed to her in the showroom on the 22nd floor.” By that time, HSM execs wanted Bruce to manage the New York office. Francesca agreed and the couple moved to New York City, then back to Chicago so Bruce could travel the country, developing Hart Schaffner Marx for all the Dillard stores. Fast forward to an offer to work for the Chicago Mart, a job Bruce emphatically did not want. “My wife made me go on the interview, so I went, but immediately turned down the job offer. I told them right away, ‘I’m definitely not your guy. I’m not a leader, I dislike socializing, I don’t even know the reps.’ They argued that I was exactly who they needed. If I knew the reps, I’d get nothing done, or I’d be giving it all away. But I held firm and handed them a list of people I thought could do the job better than I could. When I told my wife I declined the offer, she was not happy.

“A week later, I got a call that Chris Kennedy wanted to meet with me. I knew the Kennedys owned the Mart but didn’t know they were actively involved. So I met with Chris, and in 20 minutes, he sold me! We hardly talked about business. He asked about my family, how I grew up, what my dad does, what Wausau was like. I think he just wanted to make sure I was a solid citizen. But boy, was he convincing! I learned then that the Kennedys are politicians for a reason.”

Bruce claims that, at first, he didn’t know what he was doing, but so many at the Mart reached out to help him. “I have to single out Susan McCullough. Once I started understanding the business, she gave me complete autonomy.

“But times were tough back then and the show was in a decline. And then 9/11 happened. And Casual Fridays. And then MAGIC Vegas put designer tents in the parking lot, a brilliant move. And then Elyse Kroll went to the Piers, and Jack Makoujy still had his hotel show and Dallas was always a strong contender, and the Charlotte show had a very loyal following—so the competition was brutal!”

had input. They’re the reason we’re now sold out.” (Editor’s note: Even at 426 booths, there’s a sizable waiting list and one-third of the floor wants to expand.)

In addition to the reps, Bruce credits his team, led by Danielle Owen and Monique Kielar, for their energy, initiative, and work ethic. “We’re very close. We trust each other, take care of each other, and make each other better. Our goal has always been to be a great show, rather than a big show. Even before we were sold out, we turned away lots of brands if they weren’t what we wanted, or simply because they were too advanced. We’d say, ‘Give us two years until we have the

He continues, “I honestly don’t know why the Mart stuck with me. They should have gotten rid of me or gotten rid of the show because we were losing gobs of money. Thank goodness for the CTDA [Custom Tailors and Designers Association]. They joined us for a few shows, which kept us afloat. Then on a random Monday during market, I get a call from Chris Kennedy, who wanted to walk the show with me to assess what was going on. It took 10 minutes—we had only 124 exhibitors. Chris suggested we meet again on Friday to discuss an exit strategy.”

But that meeting never happened. “To this day, I honestly don’t know why,” Bruce confides. “The situation was devastating. People assumed it was the last show and were offering me jobs. I dreaded the meeting with Chris, but it didn’t happen, and he never said a word after that. Susan assured me that I shouldn’t leave, that we would somehow figure it out.

“I was truly in despair. I thought it was all on me to build back the show. But then the reps got a hold of me and offered to help. I said, ‘I’m not getting in front of all you assassins. You’ll beat the ---- out of me.’ But 30 guys came to Chicago, from Michigan, Indiana, other Midwest states, and told me it’s not my show, it’s our show, and we must work together if we want it to succeed. So we started having meetings on the Saturday before each show, and that was the turning point. They put the show on their backs, which took so much pressure off me. When they’d meet with their retail accounts, they’d ask, ‘How come I’m not working with you at the Collective?’ They’d talk up all the new things we were offering: exclusive brands, hotel discounts, parties. The reps were unbelievable! They felt they had ownership because they

retailers who can support what you bring to the table.’ Until Danielle joined us, we didn’t really have a contemporary business. Now it’s a sizeable part of the show.”

Another success secret that Bruce is surprisingly willing to share: he took the time early on to visit retailers in their stores. “I’d show up on the selling floor and they’d most often greet me by asking, ‘What are you doing here?’ They weren’t accustomed to show directors traveling the country to small independent stores. But I had a feeling that personally inviting store owners to the show would make a difference. And it has!”

For this reason, Bruce has tremendous appreciation for the out-of-region retailers who supported the show early on, retailers like Dana from Miltons in Massachusetts; Anthony from the Garage in Brooklyn; Jim, Rick, and Bob from Puritan on the Cape; Keith and Missy from Kinkade’s in Jackson; and so many others. “Knowing that those who first embraced the show are still here supporting us makes me incredibly proud.”

Outside of work, Bruce’s passions include playing the guitar (make that guitars with an s). Although he won’t tell me how many he owns (for fear his wife will find out), he admits that it’s more than 30 and that he now has to sneak them into the house. He also collects antique fountain pens. But his real passion these days is spending time with his family: his wife, Francesca; his son, Christopher; his daughter, Alyse, and her husband, Andrew; and his granddaughter, Penelope, who just turned two. “To see your children become good people and ultimately good parents—what could be better than that?”

BRUCE’S ABILITY TO TAKE THE SHOW FROM REGIONAL TO NATIONAL IS REMARKABLE, PROPELLING IT TO NEW HEIGHTS WITH THE ITA PARTNERSHIP. HIS INTEGRITY AND LOYALTY SHINE IN EVERY ASPECT OF HIS WORK.”

–RIAN GARDINER, TRILUXE

THE MART Congratulates

Bruce Schedler on the 2023 MR Magazine People’s Choice Award and all award recipients

MR 2023 VANGUARD BRANDICE DANIEL

HARLEM’S FASHION ROW

Celebrating Talent By John Russel Jones

didn’t complete all her credits, but she was awarded an honorary degree by Dr. Joyce Brown at the college’s commencement last year.) While still in Tennessee, she was a buyer for Charming Shoppes, which led her to New York, where she worked in apparel production for International Intimates (working on the Victoria’s Secret account). Her goal was to one day own a men’s boutique.

“I was going to call it Infinity. I still have the email! I started volunteering at a newly opened men’s boutique in Harlem called B. Oyama. That’s when I realized that I did not want to work in retail. I loved the idea of dressing men, but I didn’t like the idea of sitting in a store waiting for people to come in.”

After attending a community-based fashion show in Brooklyn, her new calling began to take shape. She wanted to bring the same concept to Harlem, where she was seeing an emergence of new stores.

“The original idea wasn’t about designers of color. I just wanted to do a fashion show in Harlem, where I lived. I started working on it in May 2007 and set the date for August 17—because I didn’t know any better! There were a lot of beautiful boutiques and ateliers opening in the neighborhood, so I asked all of them to be a part of it, and they all told me ‘no,’ except B. Oyama!”

Brandice was resolute, though, and kept going back until four of the five said “yes.” The stores included B. Oyama, Denim Library, Montgomery, and Pieces. [Editor’s note: That fifth store was one of MR’s original Uptown/Downtown Award Winners in 2006, N, on Lenox Avenue.] Harlem’s Fashion Row was born.

BRANDICE DANIEL, the founder and CEO of Harlem’s Fashion Row (HFR), was about to appear on The Tamron Hall Show. For the interview, we sat in a small dressing room buried deep in the maze of the ABC Broadcast Center on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. For someone who was about to share cookout style tips in front of a live audience and television viewership of more than a million people, she was completely calm, relaxed, and unruffled. Maybe it was from starting her day with meditation. Maybe it was just her naturally gentle and wise Pisces demeanor. Or maybe it’s because she has a clear vision of her mission to “create a bridge between brands and designers of color in fashion.”

A native of Memphis, Tennessee, and a self-described “P.K.” (Pastor’s Kid), Brandice is the middle sister of three. She describes herself as “a typical middle child, a typical Pisces.” She says, “I was always the kid who was in the hospital for something because I was trying a trick on my bike or whatever. My parents have always been supportive.”

In 2008, she began to pull together her second event. She started by searching for Black designers, a project that turned out to be more difficult than she thought. “Common sense told me to go to department store websites. I started making a spreadsheet and—of all the designers they carried—I could only find four Black designers out of hundreds! Less than 1 percent! And it wasn’t just one department store, it was every one. That was a landmark for me because I saw the problem and realized that I had to find a way to be part of the solution.”

HFR grew, and in 2009, the event honored Coty Award–winning designer Stephen Burrows. In 2011, the organization held its first event at Jazz at Lincoln Center and had its first big brand sponsorship, from Target, which was just opening its first store in Harlem. There was a show at the Apollo Theater, and in 2015, the organization hosted its first event in Los Angeles.

Then came 2017. On the day of the annual fashion show, there was a downpour. The audience and crew soldiered through, but the weather wasn’t the only thing that was unpleasant.

“That year was the worst for me,” says Brandice. “I began to question what I was doing. I was doing it, but everything about it was hard. I knew it was my purpose, but I thought, maybe it looks different. Maybe it’s not an event. Maybe I don’t even have Harlem’s Fashion Row, but maybe I can just personally help a little bit here and there. That was so hard for me.”

Brandice thought that a product collaboration would be a smart move for HFR, and in that tumultuous year, she got the call. Nike wondered if HFR would consider doing a collaboration for 2018 on a sneaker: a LeBron James sneaker.

The Nike LeBron 16 made its debut in September 2018, the product of a collaboration between designers Kimberly Goldson, Felisha Noel, and Undra Celeste. The design featured gold accents, James’s Lakers number 23, and an LJ crown motif, as well as a 3D lion’s head on the heel. The

Brandice holds a bachelor’s of science in fashion merchandising from the University of Chattanooga and another in international trade and marketing from the Fashion Institute of Technology. (She confesses that she

We are delighted and proud to celebrate Our esteemed partner Brandice Daniels for receiving the Vanguard Award And Mark Weber for the Lifetime Achievement Award Along with all the MR Award Honorees

1365 DOMAINE DES LAMBRAYS 1593 CHÂTEAU D’YQUEM 1668 DOM

PÉRIGNON 1729 RUINART 1743 MOËT & CHANDON 1765 HENNESSY

1772 VEUVE CLICQUOT 1780 CHAUMET 1792 CHÂTEAU GALOUPET

1803 OFFICINE UNIVERSELLE BULY 1815 ARDBEG 1817 COVA 1828

GUERLAIN 1832 CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC 1837 TIFFANY & CO. 1843

KRUG 1843 GLENMORANGIE 1846 LOEWE 1849 ROYAL VAN LENT 1849

MOYNAT 1852 LE BON MARCHÉ 1854 LOUIS VUITTON 1858 MERCIER

1860 TAG HEUER 1860 JARDIN D’ACCLIMATATION 1865 ZENITH 1870

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1945 CELINE 1947 DIOR 1947 EMILIO PUCCI 1947 PARFUMS CHRISTIAN

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PARFUMS 1957 REPOSSI 1958 STARBOARD CRUISE SERVICES 1959

CHANDON 1960 DFS 1969 SEPHORA 1970 KENZO 1972 PERFUMES LOEWE

1973 JOSEPH PHELPS 1974 INVESTIR 1975 OLE HENRIKSEN 1976 BELMOND

1976 BENEFIT COSMETICS 1977 NEWTON VINEYARD 1980 HUBLOT

1983 RADIO CLASSIQUE 1984 MARC JACOBS 1984 MAKE UP FOR EVER

1985 CLOUDY BAY 1988 KENZO PARFUMS 1991 FRESH 1992 COLGIN

CELLARS 1993 BELVEDERE 1996 TERRAZAS DE LOS ANDES 1998 BODEGA

NUMANTHIA 1999 CHEVAL DES ANDES 2006 CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS

2006 HÔTELS CHEVAL BLANC 2008 KVD VEGAN BEAUTY 2009 MAISON

FRANCIS KURKDJIAN 2010 WOODINVILLE 2012 LIP LAB 2013 AO YUN

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TIERRA 2017 24S 2020 EMINENTE 2022 STELLA BY STELLA MCCARTNEY

shoe retailed for $250 and was so successful that a bright yellow reboot dropped the following year.

“That was huge. And it was a signal to the industry that it should pay attention to HFR.”

As for everyone, 2020 was a milestone for the organization when everything pivoted to virtual contact as a result of the pandemic. HFR’s annual show became a partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America, which hosted the event on its website. Ralph Lauren spoke at the second annual designer retreat of Icon360, HFR’s nonprofit subsidiary. In 2021, the live show returned and was held right on the block where Brandice used to live.

“We invited the whole block to the show. Everyone was out on their stoops watching. Anna Wintour presented an award to Carlos Nazario [global fashion director of i-D Magazine] and even posed for pictures with people.”

Brandice confides that there is a group of mostly Black women that she calls “her angels,” trusted advisers like Harriette Cole, Audrey Smaltz, B. Smith, and Teri Agins. “They’re truth-tellers and really helped me to get things right. And so I’m really, really grateful for them. They wouldn’t tell me, ‘Oh, Brandice, that was great,’ after every show. They would literally say, ‘These are the things that you have to fix.’”

A bespoke tailor to the stars, Richfresh has dressed everyone from Dwyane Wade to LeBron James and Barack Obama. Fresh (as he is also known) had his first HFR fashion show at that virtual event in 2020.

“Brandice and I are both from Memphis, but we didn’t meet until she’d moved to New York and I’d moved to Los Angeles. We connected because she liked my brand. Brandice asked me to lend a few looks for a charity fashion show she was producing. Normally I didn’t do things like that, but she convinced me, and after showing up at the event, I could see the possibilities in what she was doing. We stayed in touch, and every so often she’d reach out with other projects. I kept saying ‘yes,’ and things kept happening!”

Fresh was invited to design an HFR capsule collection for children’s brand Janie and Jack in 2000. He says, “It was a great way to show that I could design for men, women, and children.” He was also invited to participate in HFR’s 2022 Black History Month collaboration with Mattel to design a Barbie. “We got to develop the whole doll, including the hair, makeup, and outfit. It was a great representation of the brands.” Fresh goes on to say, “Brandice is best at opening doors and putting opportunities in front of designers so they can see the possibilities that are out there.”

In 2022, HFR forged an alliance with LVMH North America through which the two

organizations work together toward a more diverse, equitable, and inclusive fashion industry. That year’s fashion show became an extravaganza—again with a downpour—this time staged at Grant’s Tomb, an Upper West Side landmark and a tribute to the man that led the Union army to victory over the Confederacy and worked to remove the vestiges of slavery.

Brandice and HFR are now preparing to make yet another pivot. Whereas the efforts of the past 16 years have focused on the fashion industry itself—retailers, editors, stylists, etc.—the agency will now shift its focus to consumers, especially those who want to shop Black and Latinx brands. Brandice quotes recent studies by McKinsey and Bloomberg that revealed that Black people are 2.3 times more likely to buy from a Black designer or creative.

“What came out of the pandemic and post George Floyd is a renaissance. We want to support Black designers more than we ever have. I’ve been doing this for 16 years and I’ve never seen what I see right now. So we’re going to galvanize that community. What I learned is that any time you start something new, even though you’ve built a solid brand, it’s still like starting over. And you have to approach it that way. I believe in giving things time to grow, to ‘slow bake.’”

Brandice now lives in Brooklyn with her husband and seven-year-old daughter. Designer Shawn Pean, of June79, says, “Brandice’s daughter has such an amazing spirit. Brandice will say ‘I don’t know where she gets it from,’ but clearly, it comes from her.”

Pean goes on to share that in 2022, HFR did a collaboration with American Girl Dolls. The celebratory event happened to land on his daughter’s birthday, so of course, they attended. When talk turned to the after-party, Pean prepared to head home, but his daughter insisted on going.

“When we arrived, Brandice surprised her with a birthday cake, which was presented to her by [award-winning women’s wear designer] Prabal Gurung!”

June79 was featured at HFR’s post-COVID show in 2021. “It allowed the brand to be seen in a different light, as more mainstream in the fashion world.

“Brandice is easy to work with and her demeanor is calm and soothing. The southerner hasn’t let New York change who she is. HFR is successful because of the sense of community she’s created. She connects the dots between designers and consumers, both ends of the retail fashion world.”

I COULD ONLY FIND FOUR BLACK DESIGNERS OUT OF HUNDREDS! THAT WAS A LANDMARK FOR ME BECAUSE I SAW THE PROBLEM AND REALIZED THAT I HAD TO FIND A WAY TO BE PART OF THE SOLUTION . –BRANDICE DANIEL

Brandice speaking at an event, demonstrating her calm demeanor and innate sense of style.

BY MICHAEL MACKO.

BY CHRIS FUCILE STYLING

PHOTOGRAPHY

HERE ARE THE TOP 24 TRENDS OF THE SPRING SUMMER 2024 MEN’S MARKET, PRESENTED IN 12 CONCISE LOOKS.

NATURAL LEATHER

Raw leather allows you to imprint your own patina on your favorite accessories.

DOUBLE DENIM

This is the lightweight version of the Canadian Tuxedo, chambray included.

CAMP COLLAR

Does anyone even wear a regular collared shirt anymore?

On left: jeans and shirt by Devil Dog Dungarees; sunglasses by Persol; shoes by Sabah; belt by Schott NYC; watch by Victorinox On right: shirt by Quaker Marine Supply; shorts by Percival; socks by American Trench; shoes by Bass

RELAXED TAILORING

The suit took a Covid vacation and came back more chill then ever.

CROSS BODY BAG

Men carry things. We need bags. The cross body is the easiest and most popular to wear.

TANK TOP

The politically correct, rehabbed name for a menswear classic, just don’t skip arm day.

Suit by Canali; bag by Grey New York Grey New England; necklace by Jan Leslie; shoes by Officina Slowear; vintage military tank top.

CARGO PANTS

Are back, sleeker and more cropped than previously, have they had work done?

CHECKERBOARD

Thanks to Vans this black and white graphic is everywhere, from apparel to jewelry, helping you channel your inner high school skate rat.

EYELET

Fabric with built-in, environmentally friendly air conditioning, what could be better for summer?

Shirt by CORRIDOR; pants by Descendant of Thieves; tote bag by Vans; sunglasses by Illesteva; signet ring by Tarin Thomas

GOLD CHAIN

Not all men can wear pearls

SUMMER LEATHER

Is a thing, keep the colors and weights on the light side and you’ll be fine.

Shirt by Percival; shorts by Aknvas, bag (on chair) by Shinola; necklace by Miansai; socks by American Trench; shoes by J. Lindeberg

FLORALS CROCHET

For spring, are revolutionary for men, just make them bold and graphic.

Call grandma and ask her to make you a sweater or easier, log on to Corridor NYC and order one.

PAJAMA DRESSING

If tailoring has gone casual, casual has gone to bed, literally. Elastic waists and drawstrings are the new belts.

On left: Cardigan by CORRIDOR; tank top by Hanro; sunglasses by Persol; necklace by Miansai; shoes by Clarks; vintage pajama pants. On right: shirt by NN07; pants by Dockers x Transnomadica; sunglasses by Prada; ring by Takeshape Studio; shoes by Sperry

TRENCHCOAT

This menswear staple doesn’t have to be worn over a suit, it lets you wear denim and a t-shirt anywhere.

STRIPES

Micro, thin, midi, or thick the width doesn't matter as long as it is striped.

UPCYCLED

How and from what things are made is more important than ever, Freitag makes all of their accessories from used truck tarps.

On left: sweater by CORRIDOR; t-shirt by Athletegy; pants by Onia; shoes by Bass On right: trenchcoat by Cardinal Canada 1938; t-shirt by Hiro Clark; pants by Industry of all Nations; bag by Freitag; shoes by Sperry

STEALTH DRESSING

Thank you to the men of the Roy family for reminding us how to dress.

LOAFERS

Not as serious as a lace up and we are 100% here for that.

Sport coat, shirt, pants, and pocket square by Kiton; watch by Breitlng; sunglasses by Oliver Peoples; bag by Pineider; shoes by DiBianco

WESTERN

You don’t need a cowboy hat, it’s fashion not cosplay.

WORK PANTS

Double knees and a hammer loop, what more can a pair of pants give you?

Jacket by CRWTH; shirt by Pendleton; t-shirt by Industry of all Nations; pants by Abercrombie & Fitch; belt and bag by Will Leather Goods; boots by Wolverine; sunglasses by Ray-Ban Hair by Cy Blankinship. Grooming by Marlon Steen. Assistant Styling by Billy Teed. Models: Isha Blaaker and Conrad Solaka / Soul Artist Management.

LUXE SUNGLASSES

Sunglasses are now nearing the four figure mark, make sure you air tag them before heading out.

SIGNET RING

It’s not just female royals who start trends, thank you King Charles III.

KNIT POLO

We are definitely in a knit cycle, sorry wovens, you’ll be back.

Sweater by Bugatchi; pants by King Kennedy; sunglasses by Oliver Peoples; ring by Takeshape Studio; shoes by Sabah

THE FASTEST GROWING MEN’S SHOW IN THE COUNTRY

Dallas is your ultimate luxury lifestyle market with 850+ curated brands and more categories to explore than ever before. Find everything from tailored softwear and fresh contemporary to fine Italian luxury and elevated outdoor plus trending footwear, alluring accessories, western lines and more. Don’t miss your chance to see what everyone’s talking about.

Source from a juried selection of emerging trends from leading brands such as: Mizzen + Main , Holderness & Bourne, Frame, Stone Rose, Robert Talbott, Jack of Spades, Colmar, Nicoby Age of Wisdom, Grayers, Joes Jeans, and many more.

Dallas Men’s Show

JULY 29-31, 2023

dallasmarketcenter.com

@dallasmarket

Inspiration Starts Here.

CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL OF THE 2023 MR HONOREES

We celebrate and applaud the incredible careers of Tina Aniversario, Craig DeLongy and Bruce Schedler.

Thank you for your support and partnership through the years.

CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL OF THE 2023 MR HONOREES

Thank you to Tina Aniversario, Craig DeLongy and Bruce Schedler for supporting our long-standing partnerships.

LOAFING AROUND

By Michael Macko

IF YOU’VE STARTED commuting back to the office for a hybrid work week, you might have noticed a change in the way men are dressing. Except for white-shoe law firms and haute corporate financial guys, men are dressing more casually than pre-pandemic, showing what three years in sweatpants will do to you. The suit has been replaced by a relaxed semi-tailored jacket, often paired with trousers that have an elastic or drawstring waist. As for shirts, knits are winning favor over wovens. When it comes to footwear, the shoelace has gone the way of the necktie! When guys are not wearing sneakers, loafers are clearly the shoe of choice, but not necessarily the ones your dad or grandad wore. While heritage brands like Bass, Sperry and Sebago offer some nice classic options, these are joined by newcomers like Blackstock & Weber.

Bottom line, we’re seeing loafers in a whole new light. They’re studded, lug-soled, multi-tasseled, deconstructed, metallic, fluorescent, ironic, even made from tennis ball fabric. They’re also easy to get on, no sitting down to tie, just slip on and go, a perfect complement to the relaxed attitude of modern men’s apparel. So start loafing around: your customers will thank you.

Left to right, top row: Blackstock & Weber, Bass, Blackstock & Weber; middle row: Bruno Magli, Dr. Martens, Sebago; bottom row: Sebago, Vinny’s

Pants by Jungmaven; shirt by Abercrombie & Fitch; socks by Corgi; loafers by Sebago Model: Conrad Solaka/Soul Artist Management. Styling: Michael Macko. Photography: Chris Fucile. Hair: Cy Blankinship. Grooming: Marlon Steen. Assistant Styling: Billy Teed.

A HEARTFELT CONGRATULATIONS TO TINA ANIVERSARIO AND BRUCE SCHEDLER. WE ARE PROUD TO CELEBRATE THE ACCOMPLISHMENTS OF THIS YEAR’S HONOREES.