MR JULY 2018
JULY 2018
A NEW TAKE ON TAILORED
THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE / THE AWARDS ISSUE
THE AWARDS ISSUE
ROCK STARS of MENSWEAR DAVID LEVIN BRUCE PASK JAMES STARKE KENT GUSHNER ULAH FAHERTY GIANLUCA ISAIA
A WAINSCOT MEDIA PUBLICATION
KEEGAN ALLEN LOOSENS UP
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INSIDE MR
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12 LIVE, EAT, DRESS, DRINK, DREAM ITALIAN A chat with Italian Trade Commissioner Maurizio Forte.
16 CHICAGO COMEBACK
How to orchestrate a tradeshow turnaround.
18 SELLING THE “HUG YOUR CUSTOMERS” WAY An interview with Chief Executive Hugger Jack Mitchell.
34 QUINTESSENTIAL COACH
JCPenney SVP James Starke is spearheading a growth strategy for the retailer’s menswear business.
68 48 MAKING IT BIG
DXL CEO David Levin has transformed how a generation of big-and-tall men shop.
54 REASON TO BELIEVE
A $10+million investment in his Philadelphia landmark store reflects Boyds’ Kent Gushner’s unwavering confidence in the future.
64 EMBRACING THE NEW
Bruce Pask and his team at Bergdorf Goodman show what it takes to update a retail business for today’s consumer.
68 GIANLUCA ISAIA: DEFINING STYLE
86 72 BROTHER ACT
In five years, twins Alex and Mike Faherty have catapulted their namesake brand to national success.
76 S OMETHING SPECIAL
Kansas City’s newest men’s specialty store, Ulah, is paving its own path in the retail landscape.
DEPARTMENTS 6 Editor’s Letter 8 Ones to Watch 80 Scene 86 Fashion 96 The Last Word: Loose Change
A beloved industry icon, Isaia also makes some damn nice suits!
COVER: SUIT BY TALLIA; SHIRT, BOW TIE AND CUMMERBUND BY BRUNELLO CUCINELLI; PHOTOGRAPHY BY MENELIK PURYEAR
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PROUDLY SUPPORTS
THE 2018 MR AWARDS AND CONGRATULATES THE HONOREES James Starke, JCPenney David Levin, DXL Group Bruce Pask, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus Kent Gushner, Boyds Philadelphia ULAH Faherty Gianluca Isaia, Isaia
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MR
The Menswear Industry’s Magazine
E D I T O R I A L
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN KAREN.ALBERG@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM
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MR ISSN 1049-6726 IS PUBLISHED FOUR TIMES A YEAR (JANUARY, FEBRUARY, JULY, AUGUST) MR MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, 110 SUMMIT AVENUE, MONTVALE, NJ 07645. SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: TO CHANGE AN ADDRESS OR REQUEST A SUBSCRIPTION, WRITE TO SUBSCRIPTIONS, MR MAGAZINE, 110 SUMMIT AVENUE, MONTVALE, NJ 07645; TELEPHONE: 201-573-5541. ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: CONTACT SHAE MARCUS AT 856.797.2227 OR SHAE.MARCUS@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM. COPYRIGHT © 2018 BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 16, ISSUE 3. ©2018
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CONGRATULATIONS! FROM YOUR FRIENDS AT ABG
JAMES STARKE JC Penney | Merchant’s Merchant Award
DAVID LEVIN DXL | Lifetime Achievement Award
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{ EDITORIAL }
LESSONS FROM THE TRENCHES Some inspiration from fellow troupers. ALWAYS MY FAVORITE MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR, our
July MR Awards issue profiles a select group of industry warriors (nominated by you, our readers) who are instinctively and methodically figuring out how to manage today’s fast-changing retail scene. This year’s honorees are a diverse group: from Emerging Brand honoree Faherty—the brainstorm of young movie-star handsome twins Alex and Mike Faherty who are building a hot fashion business with creativity, imagination and integrity — to JCPenney exec James Starke, our Merchant’s Merchant honoree. Throughout his 12-year tenure at JCP, Starke has artfully managed his menswear business through five CEOs while creating new excitement via celebrity partnerships, interactive team shops and enhanced presentations of powerhouse brands. What’s more, he’s known to be an amazing coach and morale builder to his JCP team (and to his kids’ sports teams) and a true friend to vendors, staying connected well beyond business involvement. Then there’s our Retail Visionary Kent Gushner, whose $10 million investment in his already fabulous fashion emporium in downtown Philadelphia has the industry abuzz. (Who invests that kind of money in a single specialty store? Only a courageous merchant with confidence in the future of brick-and mortar!) Congrats too to our Lifetime Achievement winner David Levin, whose DXL stores offer easy one-stop shopping to big and tall men. As CEO, Levin not only created a stress-free experience for these underserved shoppers but also put numerous menswear vendors into the B&T business. Ulah, our Rising Retailer honoree, is the brainchild of Joey Mendez and Buck Wimberly (Joey is an instinctive merchant who honed his skills at Halls in Kansas City; Buck has a strong background in marketing). The two have created a textbook example of today’s cool contemporary store by featuring a broad product mix that transcends apparel, a non-invasive email strategy and strong social media outreach. Bruce Pask, much admired fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, is our Fashion Game Changer honoree, for reasons that become immediately apparent as soon as one enters any of his spectacular stores. Known for introducing upscale street/athleisure brands to his clientele and blending them with luxury mainstays, Pask is managing to attract that elusive young consumer. Finally, our Sprezzatura award goes to the one and only Gianluca Isaia, a beloved designer and impresario who teaches us to throw away the rule book and have fun with fashion (even $4,000 suits!) and who takes every opportunity to remind us that the meaning of life is to enjoy it. From our newly merged teams at MR and Wainscot Media, we look forward to celebrating life (and improved business) with you at the upcoming menswear shows. Please stop by the MR booths at Project NYC, Project Vegas and the Chicago Collective to brainstorm, complain, or just say hi.
Our recognized industry warriors (nominated by you, our readers) are methodically figuring out how to get out in front of today’s fastchanging retail scene.”
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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CONGRATULATIONS We congratulate this year’s recipients on being honored as MR’s Excellence in Menswear. A special thank you to James Starke & David Levin for your outstanding partnership.
Levi’s
Tommy Hilfiger
Vince Camuto
Exact Fit
Ryan Seacrest Distinction Tommy Bahama
Anne Klein
Kenneth Cole
Dickies
Cole Haan
Weatherproof
Jessica Simpson
Trafalgar Wembley
ED by Ellen DeGeneres Timberland
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Chaps Aéropostale
Nine West
The Global Market Leader in Lifestyle Accessories www.randa.net
Countess Mara
Nautica
Guess Dockers Dickies
Columbia
Collection by Michael Strahan
© Randa Accessories 2018
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{ ONES TO WATCH }
Shorts Stories PRINCE & BOND Founded in New York City, Prince & Bond is a men’s swimwear brand with an elevated take on the classic swim short. The company, which combines artistry, craftsmanship and smart tailoring to create a versatile pair of swim shorts, crafts their wares in New York City’s historic Garment District, sources its raw materials from some of Europe’s most reputable mills and uses hand-painted prints on such top-selling styles as “The Wave” and “Jungle Nights” (Retail prices range from $125-$175). “Through a tailored approach, we have created the ultimate pair of swim shorts that is not only smarter and flattering on a wide range of body types,” says Prince & Bond founder Nnamdi Chuks. “This versatility provides great value to our customers. They love the fact that they can throw on a pair of loafers and a polo after a quick swim and head to the bar.” Adds Djiun Wang, creative director and co-owner: “The refined fit is what attracts our customers, but once we’ve gotten their attention, it is our exclusive prints that seals the deal. Our team of artists and designers create distinctive paintings, graphics, and prints that cannot be found anywhere else.” Look for Prince & Bond at Project New York, Miami Swim Week, and at its first showing at New York Fashion Week Men’s on July 10. – SG
“The refined fit is what attracts our customers and our exclusive prints seal the deal.”
Two’s Company GREY NEW YORK GREY NEW ENGLAND Grey New York Grey New England is a two-sided brand of leather goods inspired by creative director Simon Kneen’s own lifestyle of living between a New York loft in the heart of Manhattan and a colonial farmhouse hidden in the Litchfield Hills of Connecticut. Grey New York reflects the dynamic sporty side of the collection while Grey New England the refined quieter side. “The collection of men’s leather accessories is aimed at a customer who appreciates luxury that speaks for itself without the need of heavyhanded branding and a realistic price that remains attainable,” says Brandon Ferreira, director of marketing and development for the brand. “The simple style and practical characteristics of our bags appeal to both men and women alike. We are developing a collection without labels, both of season or gender.” Ferreira notes that the brand’s tote bag, which retails between $490 and $690, is its number one best seller, with the backpack ($950) and duffle ($1,350) following closely behind. In general, price ranges range from $45 to $360 for small leather goods and $380 to $1,550 for bags. The brand also offers conflict-free, wild caught crocodile products starting at $12,000. And, while the brand originally focused mostly on its e-commerce business, it is now offered in Strasburgo stores across Japan, Maiyet in SoHo, and will be launching five styles with Barneys New York this fall. Look for Grey New York Grey New England this month at The Tents at Project New York. – SG
“Luxury that speaks for itself without heavy-handed branding and a realistic price.” 8
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{ ONES TO WATCH }
On the Move
“Filling a gap in the market for activewear informed by fashion.”
THE UPSIDE
Living between New York and Hawaii and practicing yoga daily, The Upside’s founder Jodhi Meares identified a gap in the market for activewear informed by fashion. As a result, the Upside’s early ethos laid in establishing a bold brand that catered to sartorially sophisticated individuals who led demanding lives but cherished their training. Now four years old, with stores in Bondi, Mosman, and Miranda, Australia, the Sydney-based men’s and women’s brand has landed stateside for the first time thanks to a collaboration with SoulCycle. In addition, the brand – which can be found across the globe in retailers such as Lane Crawford, Selfridges, Matches, Farfetch, Neiman Marcus and Net-a-Porter – is hoping to establish its own stores in the United States. Top sellers for men include its core T-shirts and Redford Crews as well as its four-way stretch running shorts. (Retail prices range from $99 to $299). Coming up this season is a new collaboration with Sydney-based designer Sam Elsom and the launch of new camo technical shorts, yoga pants and T-shirts. Working out won’t feel like work in these comfy and stylish outfits – SG
Shirt Tales DESOTO
In 2014, Heino Putnai came up with a new fashion concept for knits, inspired by jersey jackets and jog-pants. His success formula: exclusive piece goods, an outstanding production facility and exceptional engineering of the shirts. After 12 months in development, Desoto showed its first men‘s collection in Berlin. Today, it has more than 900 accounts worldwide and a recently launched women‘s collection. Putnai describes his ultimate vision for Desoto as establishing fine jersey shirts as a real alternative to wovens. “The current direction in fashion is very accommodating to knits: the trend to comfort is irreversible,“ he says. As to what makes these shirts so special, Putnai talks about how they combine maximum comfort with elegant style, all at great prices ($135 to $175 retails). Furthermore, these body-conforming shirts (which are crafted exclusively in Europe, sized XS to 3XL) are non-iron and comfortable in their modern fit. Plus, the soft-touch fabrics they contain are sustainably produced, without chemicals, using Oeko-Tex certified fabrics from Germany. Desoto will be showing its spring 2019 collection in Berlin at Panorama from July 2-5, in NYC at the Tents at Project July 22-24 and at the Chicago Collective Aug 5-7. – KAG
“The current direction in fashion is very accommodating to knits: the trend to comfort is irreversible.”
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Italy @ NYMENS
OUTERWEAR & COLLECTIONS
CARUSO MENSWEAR
Italian clothing and outerwear combine artisanal construction with luxurious fabrics to achieve results that are internationally acclaimed. Feel the difference.
REPORTER
ERRICO FORMICOLA
PIERO GABRIELI
RODRIGO
DI BELLO BY NIPAL
Visit us at Italy@NYMENS | July 22-24, 2018 | Javits Center, NY E M A IL - NEW YO RK @IC E.IT
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SANT'ANDREA
MARCO DE LUCA BOSSO
RIFUGIO “HANDMADE LEATHER JACKETS” NAPOLI
PIA LAURI CAPRI
ORAZIO LUCIANO
G. MANZONI
Visit us at Italy@NYMENS | July 22-24, 2018 | Javits Center, NY E M A IL - NEW YO RK @IC E.IT
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LIVE, EAT, DRINK, DRESS, DREAM ITALIAN! What is the mission of the ITC and how has this changed in recent years?
A chat with Italian Trade Commissioner Maurizio Forte.
I would say the details are much more refined than our competitors, due to a craftsmanship that is part of our culture, part of the Italian DNA. We call it “bello e ben fatto” (beautiful and well crafted). Italian fabrics offer a quality synonymous with authenticity, style, luxury and a refined manufacturing process.
Our objective is to develop trade between Italy and the U.S. To do so, we look for partnerships with American distributors, retailers, and trade groups for all our products: BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN food, wine, fashion, furniture, jewels, etc. Our total global network comprises 75 offices in 65 countries. Our New York office coordiWhat are some problems smaller nates offices in Miami, Los Angeles, Chicago, Italian companies have selling to U.S. Atlanta and Houston. stores? Our mission has certainly changed in I would say communication and partnering: recent years because the global market and our companies are just learning how to marbusiness itself have changed. These days, businesses have become ket their products, and they need to learn to group themselves, to increasingly intertwined: art and fashion, art and technology, fash- work in synergy . ion and food, design and fashion, no industry is an island. Unfortunately, few American retailers are truly open to emergTo succeed and lead, one must situate one’s business in this web ing brands. They prefer to reduce risks by selling well-known brands; of connections. few invest in new labels. But we believe the future of U.S. stores lies in discovering emerging brands and introducing these to their cusWhat are some of your most successful accomplishments? tomers so their selling floors can be more exclusive, engaging, and less affected by off-price competition. What are you working on next? Partnerships with the big department stores (Nordstrom, Bergdorf, Saks) have been very worthwhile since we brought many un- How do you define the cultural differences between the known brands to the U.S. market. Our Italian pavilion (almost 50 U.S. and Italy? How can we get American men to dress companies) at the MRket tradeshow in New York, July 22-24, is more Italian? another great achievement that is internationalizing smaller Ital- Italy is a very old country with a long history reflected in our lifestyle. ian companies. We’re also working on projects with other major It is because of this thousand-year-old tradition that our men are American retailers such as the Mitchells stores, the Webster, Kirna stylish, elegant and love the small details. Zabete and some we cannot yet disclose. Americans have always had a love affair with Italy through the food, culture and lifestyle. We have only to familiarize more What do you think distinguishes Italian menswear from American men with our history to inspire them to dress with our signature sense of style. l its competition? What distinguishes Italian fabrics?
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KNITWEAR
FILIPPO DE LAURENTIIS
DALMINE 1952
ALESSANDROSIMONI
FLY 3
MONTECHIARO
LORENZONI ZABEO CASHMERE
Italian knitwear is supple and luxurious. Experience it for yourself. Your customers will appreciate the difference.
Visit us at Italy@NYMENS | July 22-24, 2018 | Javits Center, NY E M AIL - NEW YO RK @IC E.IT
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Italy @ NYMENS
SHIRTS
INGRAM
VINCENZO DE LAUZIERS
MONTALIANI ALESSANDRO GHERARDI
FRAY
POGGIANTI 1958
ANDREA BOSSI ITALWEAR ALEX INGH
Visit us at Italy@NYMENS | July 22-24, 2018 | Javits Center, NY E M A IL - NEW YO RK @IC E.IT
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ARTIGIANI IN CAMICIA
GALLIA TACCALITI
The shirt is the palate from which you build great overall style. You can be certain that shirts from these Italian vendors will stand out from the crowd. IMPULSO TINTORIA MATTEI
MAROL 1959
CALIBAN
Visit us at Italy@NYMENS | July 22-24, 2018 | Javits Center, NY E M A IL - NEW YO RK @IC E.IT
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{ SHOW TALK }
CHICAGO COMEBACK
How to orchestrate a trade show turnaround. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
T
sphere at this show is relaxed and less hectic, here’s no question that the which means I can spend more time with my Chicago Collective mensvendors and be so much more productive.” wear trade show has been Other retailers speak of the Collective’s through some tough times and palpable sense of community, a spirit of show director Bruce Schedler is being in it together without typical feelings the first to admit it. “After 9-11, of divisiveness among competitors. Says things were brutal: we were down Schedler, “Considering the current state of to 124 exhibitors in 50,000 square Peter Millar: Chicago Collective the industry and of apparel feet of space. So we decided that trade shows, I’m proud that since we’d never be the biggest, the Chicago Collective has we’d aim to be the best. And that’s what we’ve been emerged as an important working on.” show. We draw retailers Indeed. With an exhibitor count of 350 for the from 40 states and Canada; upcoming August show (almost triple what they we’re expecting a considerhad) and 247,000 square feet of show space, the able number of new stores Chicago show has boosted its reputation, and its this August and in 2019. We returns. “We’ve elevated the show to a whole new Left Coast Tee: Chicago Collective also get vendors who don’t level,” says Schedler. “We don’t fill it with junk. We ordinarily do trade shows: sell out; we have a waiting list of exhibitors. And the secret is simple: we make sure to give our exhibitors a real brands like Peter Millar, David Donahue, Robert Talbott, Copreturn on their investment; attracting great stores is the key to pley and others. Our formula seems to work quite well for both exhibitors and buyers. But I always remind our exhibitors not to this guarantee.” Many of these great stores have been long-time Chicago fans. judge us by their first show, since it generally takes a bit of time Says Scott Shapiro from Syd Jerome in Chicago, “The industry to build relationships. But ultimately, these relationships prove is shrinking and I don’t have the luxury of popping into NYC well worth building.” The next Chicago Collective is August 5-7. There will be an just for an appointment. I can get so much of my market work outdoor opening party sponsored by Hardwick done at this appointment-driven show; they really make with food and drinks overlooking the river it easy!” and the Chicago skyline. For more info: Adds Blair DeLongy from John Craig Monique Lyle, mlyle@themart.com. l in Winter Park Florida, “The atmo-
Opening Night Party: Chicago Collective
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Italy @ NYMENS
ACCESSORIES & FURNISHINGS
CALABRESE 1924 PAOLO VITALE HANDMADE IN ITALY
BELTS + DI PIAZZA STEFANO
FABIO TOMA ROMA
It’s the details that count for impulse purchases. Make sure to present your customers with unique and beautiful items from Italy with instant appeal.
TIKI
Visit us at Italy@NYMENS | July 22-24, 2018 | Javits Center, NY E M AIL - NEW YO RK @IC E.IT
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SELLING THE “HUG YOUR CUSTOMERS” WAY An interview with our industry’s CEH (Chief Executive Hugger) Jack Mitchell BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
No one knows more about selling than Jack Mitchell (chairman of seven of the most successful luxury fashion stores in the world), and no one better explains the art and science of establishing an emotional connection between buyer and seller. His newly released book, “Selling The Hug Your Customers Way,” available on Amazon, is a powerful read for sellers of all types, guaranteed to improve your business and enrich your life. You’ve had widespread success with your two previous books on the power of hugs; why a third? This one describes the selling process, step by step, with real-life examples. I’ve always been passionate about selling but early in my career, I didn’t understand that enthusiasm is not enough. Nor did I understand the method, or that selling is something that can be learned. After years of selling, I now know that it’s less about making the sale and more about allowing the buy, creating a relationship and an environment in which the customer feels comfortable and valued. I’ve given about 250 speeches around the world since I first launched “Hug Your Customers” in 2003; I know the process works, not just for stores but for all kinds of businesses.
What exactly is the process? I hate to oversimplify since the book uses numerous anecdotes to explain the stages. Essentially, the process involves: making the connection, decoding the mission, showing and sharing (not
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{ BOOK REVIEW }
“Talk less and listen more. Make sure that the first item you show a customer is the one you think best suits them. (Research has shown that at least 50 percent of sales will be the first item shown.)” JACK MITCHELL
show and tell but show and share), allowing the buy, kissing goodbye and throwing in one for good measure. Each step is described in depth with advice from various sales experts. Bottom line: great sellers don’t sell; they connect with their customers and inspire them to buy.
Do you believe that some people are born sellers? Some people are born extroverts but this does not guarantee great salesmanship. It’s more about personalizing the experience; it’s a process that can be learned. Not all our top sellers have effusive, outgoing personalities, and sometimes people with big personalities are too pushy.
What do you look for when you hire sellers? They’ve got to have integrity (something psychological tests can’t always pick up). They need to be positive and passionate with a sincere desire to grow. They have to be nice people. And competent. Interestingly, we’re getting some of our most competent candidates these days from our department store competitors: star sellers who have become frustrated by declining store traffic and thus lower commissions.
What are the most frequent mistakes sellers make? Many of them rush the sale. It’s important to mirror the customer’s pace and know that certain shoppers prefer to take their time. It’s also important to vary the pace, sensing when to speed up and when to slow down. Also, while most customers want the seller’s opinion, it’s best to know as much as possible about the customer’s taste and lifestyle before you give yours. A third mistake is not setting up for the next visit: always hand out your business card; always write a note after the visit thanking the customer for their purchase. Send a relevant magazine article or a book for their kids. The challenge, and the fun, is seeking out new ways to connect.
Any other tips? Talk less and listen more. Make sure that the first item you show a customer is the one you think best suits them. (Research has shown that at least 50 percent of sales will be the first item shown.) Sellers should always be themselves and avoid sounding scripted. (At one luxury hotel chain, they’ve asked their associates to stop saying “It’s a pleasure…”) Sellers should watch how other great sellers operate. There are so many nuances that matter. Don’t hover but keep the customer in sight. Keep moving, never stand around. And know when to sell 2-on-1 or 3-on-1 and when to disappear and let the lead person sell alone. (It’s like playing doubles in tennis: you anticipate each other’s moves…) A suggestion for buyers and managers: spend time on the selling floor and keep a few dozen clients of your own. In this way, you’re in a better position to inform vendors of any problems, or of changing customer preferences.
What was your best sale ever? Convincing Linda to marry me, 57 years ago...
Is there a single message in your book that you consider all-important? Yes: The message is that great sellers build authentic relationships with their customers which builds long term loyalty. And they of course always act with integrity which fosters mutual respect and trust. They become friends and clients for life. It’s a fun and valuable process. In addition to his chairman role at Mitchells Family of Stores, Jack Mitchell is an executive in residence at the Columbia University School of Business. MR-Mag.com | JULY 2018 MR
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NECKWEAR
ITALO FERRETTI
PAOLO ALBIZZATI ARCURI TIES
Italian neckwear is the world standard for quality and style. Check out the offerings from these great brands.
DOLCEPUNTA
MARCHESI DI COMO
VITALIANO SILVIO FIORELLO 40 COLORI
Visit us at Italy@NYMENS | July 22-24, 2018 | Javits Center, NY E M AIL - NEW YO RK @IC E.IT
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FOOTWEAR
PAOLO SCAFORA NAPOLI
STEFANO BRANCHINI
CFLORENCE
Footwear from Italy is the final touch for every wardrobe in styles from sporty to elegant. BRADOR
Visit us at Italy@NYMENS | July 22-24, 2018 | Javits Center, NY E M AIL - NEW YO RK @IC E.IT
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FASHION IS ALL ABOUT MOVING FORWARD. A NEW SEASON, A NEW COLLECTION, A NEW POINT OF VIEW. This July, UBM Fashion is taking a fresh perspective on the traditional NYC tradeshow and bringing retailers the first-ever and the only market in New York with men’s and women’s fashion—under one roof. From elevated contemporary and luxury brands to the latest trenddriven fashion and denim, it’s an opportunity to access new apparel, accessories and footwear brands in one curated marketplace. Preview the July show lineup and prep yourself for the new wave of menswear.
PROJECT is the leading destination for advanced contemporary apparel in the men’s marketplace with emerging and established contemporary brands, premium denim, and designer collections. Held each January and July in NYC, this expertly merchandised men’s fashion experience allows retailers to merchandise and accessorize their menswear collections in one place, at one time. This season features expertly curated neighborhoods and communities to help you navigate the market, from THE TENTS, a luxury flagship destination, to PROJECT SOLE, the leader in the men’s contemporary footwear space. BRAND PREVIEW:
EDEN PARK
34 Heritage 40 Colori 7 for all Mankind A Fish Named Fred Ace & Everett AG Adriano Goldschmied Agave Denim Age of Wisdom Alchemy Equipment astrneme BRAND Autumn Cashmere Baldwin Barker Black Barker Shoes Bellroy BMW Studio Borsalino Brackish Brax Feel Good Bruun & Stengade Bugatti Carlos Santos Derek Rose Desoto Digel Duke & Dexter Eden Park Egard watch company Emilio Franco Faherty Fisher + Baker Frame French Connection FTC CASHMERE Good Man Brand Goorin Bros. Grand Chief - Polopepe Grayers Grey New York Grey New England Halsey 44 Hommard Hush Puppies J & M Est. 1850 JACHS NY Jack Victor Limited
Jared Lang JJ Suspenders John Smedley Johnston & Murphy Kenneth Cole Kinross Kleman Knomo London Lambretta Ledbury Linge Officielle Liverpool LOFT604 Lords & Fools Lords of Harlech M. Singer Maison F Marc Joseph New York Mavi Mey Story Meyer-MMX Michael’s Mitchell Evan Mobvoi Mododoc Moore & Giles Mr. Necktie LTD Myths Nicoby Nifty Genius Original Paperbacks PAIGE Paraboot Patrick Assaraf Peregrine Supply prince + pete Profuomo Psycho Bunny Qvinto Raga Man Rails Raleigh Denim Workshop Raw Shaving Relwen Res Ipsa Retro Brand Reyn Spooner
Robert Barakett Robert Talbott Footwear and Accessories Robins Jean Rock Revival Rodd & Gunn S.M.N Studio Schneiders Salzburg SELECTED HOMME Selected People Serge Blanco Siga International Slate Denim & Co. Sol Angeles Stacy Adams STANTT Stitch Note Stolen Riches Stone Rose Sweat Tailor SWISS GEAR T. Christopher Tasc Performance Tateossian London Testosterone Thompson Trask Tricker’s Troubadour True Grit Trumbull Rhodes TWENTYMETRICTONS UGG Unofuku Velvet by Graham & Spencer Victory Lap Vigoss USA Vince W. Kleinberg We Norwegians Inc. Wolf & Shepherd Wool & Co. Wurkin Stiffs Xabi Xabi LA Zimmerli of Switzerland
MRKET is the sophisticated fashion event for discerning menswear brands and the only show in the U.S. to spotlight such a diverse and large grouping of international sections, such as Made in Italy and Brits in New York. The brands at MRKET represent a modern take on the heritage of the menswear community, highlighting a mix of refined sportswear, tailored clothing, and dress furnishings.
MIZZEN + MAIN BARBOUR
BRAND PREVIEW: Alan Paine Knitwear Alden Alessandro Gherardi Alfred Sargent Alfredo Rifugio Napoli Allsize Company Allure Alpetora/G. Manzoni Andrew Fezza Andrew Marc Arcuri Ties Armor Lux Artigian in Camicia. Austin Reed Baade Baade II, Ltd. Barbour Baroni Couture/Prive/ Maxdavoli/Trend Belts + di Piazza Stefano Bertigo Bespoke Factory Group Bills Khakis Blujacket BNR Leather Products Bostonian Brador Bruno Piatelli Bruno Piatelli Neckwear
C.Florence Calabrese 1924 Calvin Klein Canaletto Carucci Chiari Christopher Lena Confezioni Gallia SRL Cooper & Stewart Corrente Dalmine 1952 Di Bello by Nipal Di Ruggiero Dion DKNY Dobbs Hats & Caps Dolcepunta Duncan Walton Edward Armah Empire 1917 En-Soi Enzo Tovare Errico Formicola Euro Fashions Fabio Toma Roma Ferrante Carmine Fly3 FRAY Geoff Nicholson Gionfriddo International
Gionfriddo Made in Italy Gitman Bros Gruppo Bravo iDesign Ike Behar IMM Neckwear Ingram International Laundry Italo Ferretti Italuomo Italwear/A. Bossi J.S. Blank & Co., Inc. Jan Leslie Jim’s Formal Wear Jimmy Sales Corp. JM Dickens Judger Lauren by Ralph Lauren Lauren Ralph Lauren Left Coast Tee Lief Horsens London Fog Lord West Luchiano Visconti Maceoo Majestic International Mantoni Marcello Sport Marchesi Di Como Marco Deluca Bosso
Marol Michael Kors Missani Le Collezioni Mizzen + Main Montaliani Montechiaro North 56’4 Pacific Silk Palazzo Sartoriale Pantherella Paolo Albizzati Paolo Scafora Napoli Paolo Vitale Paolo Vitale Handmade In Italy Paul Betenly/Aristo Peerless Clothing Per Pedes Socks Perre Piero Gabrieli Poggianti 1958 Punto Socks Raffi Reporter Richard Harris RKLA Robert Graham Robert Graham Hosiery & Scarves Rodrigo
Scott Nichol Sean John Seaward & Stearn London Shaquille O’Neal Silvio Fiorello Southwick Clothes Stephan Geoffrey Stetson Hats Taccaliti Tallia Orange Tallia Orange Hosiery The British Apparel Collection Tiglio Tiglio Luxe Tiki Tommy Hilfiger Tony Bowls Torras Of Spain Trands USA Vincenzo De Lauziers Visconti Black Vitaliano Yong Zheng Tailor Shop Zabeo Cashmere Zanella Hosiery
NY MEN’S & WOMEN’S | JULY 22-24, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM
NEIGHBORHOOD WITHIN PROJECT Presented in an elevated environment, THE TENTS serves as a focused platform for the top luxury and designer, contemporary men’s and dual-gender labels to convene for the most inspiring shopping experience in market. BRAND PREVIEW: Alchemy Equipment Baldwin Eden Park John Smedley Mey Story Moore & Giles Myths Relwen Schneider Salzburg T-Christopher Troubadour goods We Norwegian + many more
TROUBADOUR
NEIGHBORHOOD WITHIN PROJECT THE FOUNDRY is a curated destination within PROJECT representing the natural evolution of the modern man’s lifestyle. Here you can shop a tasteful selection of refined men’s apparel, purposeful objects, male grooming products, and contemporary home goods. Every item is selected for both form and function — where utilitarian beauty and the artfully functional come together to elevate every aspect of a man’s lifestyle. Brands located within The Foundry are, above all: considered, informed, and elegant. ACE & EVERETT
LAJOIE
PRINCE + PETE
BRAND PREVIEW: Ace & Everett Charlie Holiday Hommard Lajoie Ledbury Prince + Pete Reyn spooner Velvet by Graham & Spencer + many more
NY MEN’S & WOMEN’S | JULY 22-24, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM
NEIGHBORHOOD WITHIN MRKET Brits in New York is an exclusive show environment representing the best in British Menswear from handmade footwear and Savile Row tailoring to colorful sartorial furnishings and British country heritage brands. BRAND PREVIEW: Alan Paine Knitwear Alfred Sargent Barbour JM Dickens Pantherella Per Pedes Socks Punto Socks Robert Graham Hosiery & Scarves Scott Nichol Seaward & Stearn London The British Apparel Collection Zanella Hosiery + many more
PANTHERELLA
NEIGHBORHOOD WITHIN PROJECT Step into a world of men’s contemporary footwear at PROJECT SOLE, New York’s only men’s contemporary footwear destination and the only footwear show floor area specifically for men. By uniting a curated selection of men’s contemporary apparel and footwear, buyers can fully merchandize and accessorize their entire season’s offerings allowing for head-to-toe styling and convenient one-stop shopping.
BARKER SHOES LTD
DUKE & DEXTER
WOLF & SHEPHERD
BRAND PREVIEW: Alden Alfred Sargent Barker Shoes Ltd Duke & Dexter Edward Greem Kleman Tricker’s Wolf & Shepherd + many more
EDWARD GREEM
NY MEN’S & WOMEN’S | JULY 22-24, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM
NEIGHBORHOOD WITHIN MRKET Take a cue from traditional Italian ingenuity at Made in Italy. Featuring the finest brands that Italy has to offer, Made in Italy showcases the craftsmanship that borders on art when it comes to making apparel and accessories.
BRAND PREVIEW:
ALESSANDRO GHERARDI
Alessandro Gherardi Alfredo Rifugio Napoli Alpetora/G. Manzoni Arcuri Ties Artigian in Camicia. Belts + di Piazza Stefano Brador C.Florence Calabrese 1924 Confezioni Gallia SRL Dalmine 1952 Di Bello by Nipal Dolcepunta Errico Formicola Fabio Toma Roma Ferrante Carmine Fly3 FRAY Ingram Italo Ferretti Italwear/A. Bossi
Marchesi Di Como Marco Deluca Bosso Marol Montaliani Montechiaro Palazzo Sartoriale Paolo Albizzati Paolo Scafora Napoli Paolo Vitale Paolo Vitale Handmade In Italy Piero Gabrieli Poggianti 1958 Reporter Rodrigo Silvio Fiorello Taccaliti Tiki Vincenzo De Lauziers Vitaliano Zabeo Cashmere + many more
CONGRATULATIONS To this year’s MR Awards honorees for their excellence in menswear. A special thank you to James Starke for his outstanding partnership. USPOLOASSN.COM
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2018
MR
AWARDS
LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT: DAVID LEVIN, DXL GROUP FASHION GAME CHANGER: BRUCE PASK, BERGDORF GOODMAN AND NEIMAN MARCUS MERCHANT’S MERCHANT: JAMES STARKE, JCPENNEY RETAIL VISIONARY: KENT GUSHNER, BOYDS RISING RETAILER: ULAH EMERGING BRAND: FAHERTY SPREZZATURA AWARD: GIANLUCA ISAIA, ISAIA
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QUINTESSENTIAL COACH
Removing obstacles so his team can succeed, SVP James Starke is spearheading the turnaround in JCP menswear. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
As a young teenager, James Starke had lined up a most enviable summer job: working with his friends at a theme park in Houston. His father, however, had another idea: he knew the manager of a grocery store who offered James $2.80 an hour to sack groceries. After working at this grocery store through high school and college, James was asked by his dad (a chemical engineer who worked on environmental issues for Shell Oil) what he learned from this six-year experience.
“I
was trying to come up with these lofty lessons,” recalls James “something about gaining a strong work ethic or appreciating the value of a dollar. ‘No James,’ my father corrected me. ‘The lesson learned is that you don’t want a career in retailing.’ I lost my dad about six months after this conversation and I often think about him and hope he’s looking down, proud of what I’ve accomplished.” Applying for his first post-college job at Foley’s department store in Houston, James shared with the GMM some of his grocery store experiences including how he got rid of off-price goods that the buyer had loaded up on. “The GMM looked at me and a light went off: he realized I understood the business and immediately offered me the job…” (Continued)
DANI RIOS
JCPenney: Fast Facts
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Founded: 1902 by James Cash Penney Traded: on NYSE since 1929 # Stores: 860+ Total Volume: $12.5 billion Menswear to total store: 21% M/W apparel ratio: 40/60 Current company slogan: ‘Style and Value for All’ Current company mission: To return to growth in apparel Current menswear missions: To offer more contemporary product; to remain nimble and flexible and open to change; to create compelling shopping
environments to drive both frequency and spend. National to store brand ratio: 50/50 Store brand strategy: To gain national brand stature (at retails 20-25% less). Little known fact: JCP was the first department store to launch a website (early 90s). Recent company moves: Closed 140 stores with 5000 layoffs in 2017; initiated a new focus on improving customer service, eliminating bureaucracy, reducing support positions.
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EXCELLENCE NEVER GOES OUT OF STYLE Congratulations to one of our most beloved leaders, James Starke, for receiving the MR Magazine 2018 Merchant’s Merchant Award. Your service, passion, loyalty and courage make you one of the most respected professionals in the retail industry and a true company Warrior!
JAMES STARKE SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT
HEAD OF MERCHANDISING
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“I’m passionate about Big-and-Tall because I’m a customer: I’m a size 15 shoe, a 34-35 inch inseam, a 17.5-37 dress shirt. Just don’t ask my weight.” JAMES STARKE SVP, HEAD OF MERCHANDISING
Starke joined Penneys in 2005 and has, according to associates, truly earned his executive stature as VP/GMM of mens, kids and home. Says Jeff Useforge, dmm of all men’s except dress-up who’s worked with James every step of the way for the past eight years, “We’re very fortunate to have James as our leader to calm the waters and keep us focused during these recent years of intense change. He not only sets the vision and strategy, but he’s terrific at removing roadblocks so his team can drive business and be creative. He’s always there to inspire and support us.” arissa Carpenter, senior buyer for young men’s who’s also worked with James for eight years, agrees. “James is always wanting to hear what’s working; he knows the young customer changes every day so he makes sure to stay on top of it. He also knows how to take a complex situation and break it down into simple, actionable components. He’s incredibly nimble, constantly learning and always implementing new ideas.” For his part, Starke (who’s worked for five CEO’s in 12 years) could not be more proud of his menswear team. “It’s amazing what this team has accomplished in these precarious times,” he confides. “I can’t say enough about them, their level of consistency and the growth they’ve been able to achieve in a challenging environment. Of all the different facets of my job, the most rewarding is working with and motivating my team, helping them figure out how to drive our various businesses and course-correct when necessary. I realized a long time ago that job satisfaction is all about the people you work with. During the Ron Johnson era, the distraction created a bond among colleagues that could almost be compared to a combat experience. Although I’ve never been in combat, we had this esprit
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de coeur among team members. We were brothers; we would virtually die for each other. My job was to keep up morale.” Alluding to a corporate mission to return to growth in apparel, Starke says he’s optimistic that his team will meet this goal in
James Starke Gets Personal Self-description: Friendly, fair, level-headed, loves a good laugh. Struggles with: Maintaining my target weight, finding shoes that fit. Food weakness: A good steak! Fashion statement: Colorful socks! Hobbies: Spending time with my four kids; coaching their sports teams Personal hero: My dad, who I lost in ‘96. He was a chemical engineer for Shell Oil who retired at an early age so I got to spend much quality time with him and learn from his wisdom.” Passions: The Sprinkles, my daughter’s allgirls soccer team that I coached for six years. They recently
disbanded after 100 games but they kept fighting, even after 28 losses (all in the past two seasons). But I can’t say enough about this team: their tenacity, their desire to win. They’ve inspired me to coach again. I just drafted a recruiting letter, this time for kids at my three-year old son’s day care, stating my qualifications, my coaching philosophy and the goals of the organization. I plan to take my six years of experience and build a juggernaut.
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CONGRATULATIONS TO
Senior Vice President, JCPenney Co. 2018 MR Merchant’s Merchant Award Recipient As the SVP of JCPenney Co., Starke’s ambitious leadership skills and hard-working attitude have proven to be a great asset to the company and the retail industry. Congratulations from your friends at Levi Strauss & Co.
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“What makes James a great merchant is that he truly understands, believes in, and facilitates a strong sense of partnership with his vendors.” MATT FEINER SG FOOTWEAR
men’s. Sharing results from a recent in-house men’s research initiative (done by JCP’s customer strategy/consumer insights team), he notes, “Our research indicates we need a stop clock with our male customers: we have no more than 20 minutes to get them through the process of finding what they want, assessing what we have to offer, trying it on, making a decision and then making a purchase. If we can’t do it within that timeframe, the sale is lost. We also learned that our customers care more about value than price paid. We’re seeing them trade up for performance and comfort features so we’ve upgraded assortments to higher AUR goods, with no slowdown in sell-throughs. Our customers are responding to technical features, comfort, anything that makes their lives easier.” This research also verified the theory that men are doing more shopping for themselves. “So we made several changes to our floors to cater specifically to men. For example, we’ve consolidated all our Big&Tall sizes into one-stop shops in all doors as of last September. We now carry everything B&T from underwear to suits in a single shop, with Shaq as our new brand ambassador (his namesake collection will launch in September). We’ve also created a dominant pants destination so customers looking for choices in pants can more easily view the entire mix and select what they want. “I hate to play favorites but in addition to B&T (because I’m a customer and have always had trouble finding clothes and shoes that fit) I’m partial to tailored clothing and furnishings, categories I used to buy. So these departments tend to get a bit more love from me. We launched our Michael Strahan collection in the fall of 2015 with just five categories and generated $7 million in sales that first year. We’ve added ten additional categories since then and
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I’ve never seen anything with the rapid acceleration of this brand, which expanded into activewear for spring ‘16 with the same success as the initial launch. “Other components of our clothing assortment include J Ferrar — our younger, slim-fit, value-priced ($150 out the door; $300 ticket) tailored brand that I consider our loyalty play. This customer is coming to us for a suit to wear for a high-risk occasion: perhaps a job interview or the funeral of a loved one. If we can fulfill his needs at a high level of unforgettable service, odds are he’ll return to us for other needs. “Since I was the dress shirt buyer at JCP in 2008, it recently occurred to me that our furnishings floors looked exactly the same as they did ten years ago! So we totally transformed our presentations so that the floor is now open-sell. We updated and upgraded and made it much easier for men to find their styles and sizes.” Starke can’t overstate the value of his relationships with JCP’s national brands. “The consistent results we’ve had in menswear would not have been possible without our national brand partners. I remember the day in 2013 when Ron left, we were flooded with calls from our national brand suppliers saying how much they were behind us. That support has been unwavering in my tenure at Penney’s.” Asked if he plans to add more upscale national brands to the mix, Starke is thoughtful. ‘I think we’re always looking for great brands and we’re constantly evaluating what’s available to us. We’re open to assessing any potential brand but I can’t say today that we have specific plans to trade up.” In addition to JCP’s powerful national brands, Starke is
MR JULY 2018 | MR-Mag.com
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Congratulations to
JAMES STARKE for receiving the prestigious
We applaud all the 2018 Award Winners.
pery.com
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Market Insights “James is a special guy! He’s serious, yet very funny. He’s a great
dad to his four young kids and a super coach to the “Sprinkles,” which makes for some great jokes! (Also fodder for teasing: his passion for Texas A&M…) James has been through many ups and downs at JCP and has proven his strength and resilience. There’s a steeliness to him: he’s consistent and steady; even his demeanor is stoic. He’s very competitive, and as a leader, he’s great at building businesses, building team spirit, and keeping his teams engaged. He truly cares about his people which is why everyone loves working for him. Also noteworthy: James is always prepared. He has an amazing ability to simplify problems and boil things down to a few key components on which to act. I often leaned on him during our years at JCPenney; he helped me be successful.” John Tighe, Peerless Clothing (and former JCP exec)
“What sets James apart as a strong merchant is his accessibility, as well
as his ability to go above and beyond as a business partner in all aspects of a project. Not only has he understood our vision for the brand from the very
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beginning, but he has helped guide it from the ground up, allowing it to grow, expand and become a success.” Michael Strahan
“James is a great merchant. He has
“I’ve had the pleasure of working with James for the past 5+ years. Throughout
this time I’ve watched him manage through some unsettling times, always with a steadying presence. He is a resultsdriven retail executive who has exhibited excellent leadership skills in merchandising, strategic planning, product development and people development. He has the proven ability to communicate and build strategic partnerships both internally at JCP, as well as externally. He knows when to seek advice and when to be a student seeking insight into unfamiliar businesses. He’s always put emphasis on team, and has been the calming force guiding his team through some difficult times, always with a strong sense of duty and loyalty.” Patty Leto, Doneger Group
“James is a great merchant: willing to listen and eager to learn. He always follows
through with his team. He is humble, enjoys laughing and always dresses well.” Oscar Feldenkreis, PEI
an innate sense of interpreting the facts and analysis, listening to the viewpoints of his team, and determining an optimal outcome that best aligns with the priorities and interests of JCP. James is an equally great partner: strategic, focused, humble, and always a pleasure to work with” Michael Stitt, CEO, Haggar Clothing Co.
“In today’s competitive and ever-changing retail landscape, James
stands out as a leader who adapts quickly and smartly to create value for JCP and its partners. We truly value the partnership we have with James.” Donna Paulo, Levi Strauss & Co.
“What makes James a great merchant is that he truly understands, believes in, and facilitates a strong sense of partnership with his vendors. When
our respective companies have faced challenges with one another, I always know with James that I have his support in terms of working through the issues
and finding solutions that can work for both sides. I can tell you that type of approach is pretty rare these days, and that makes me appreciate and respect James and the value he places on long-term partnerships built on mutual respect and trust. James is a very good listener and I find him to be very open minded when talking through complex issues. I also like that James truly is vested in bringing the best possible product and value proposition to the JC Penney consumer. When there is an opportunity James believes in, he is willing to go the extra mile to bring it to life. I truly have enjoyed getting to know James over the past few years and I sincerely hold him in high regard not only because he is a fantastic merchant but also for the high quality individual he is.” Matt Feiner, SG Footwear
I’ve been very fortunate to work with James as a buyer, DMM and GMM. He has never
changed as he moved up within the organization: He’s always been humble, loyal and somebody you can trust. He always has an open to listen, and has always shown a knack to be a problem solver no matter the size of the issue. He leads by example, and his team respects and admires him and his dedication. I hope I can continue to work with James for the rest of my career. He is not just a great business partner, but a true friend that I
have used as a personal sounding board, and he has always given me great advice and direction. Rich Wurtzburger, PVH
“James is a true merchant; I’ve worked
with him for several years in many roles. He has a great sense of humor combined with passion for all aspects of the business. He is a great leader and inspires his team and all of us in the vendor community. I have always admired his dedication to both his work and family, plus he is a great coach to the Sprinkles! I consider him both a business partner and a friend.” Judy Person, Randa
“James always looks for opportunities to help others; it doesn’t
matter how big or small your business is. His success is derived from years of asking ‘what can I do for you?’ and never once wondering what’s in it for him. We’re just a small accessories company but to this day, as busy as his schedule is, he comes by our booth at every Magic just to catch up on our business and to remind us to give him a call if we ever need anything. And that’s extraordinary. That’s James.” Scott Starnes, Dorfman Pacific
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JCP Menswear Initiatives AMONG THE MANY STEPS JCP HAS RECENTLY TAKEN TO BUILD MENSWEAR BUSINESS:
• Targeted men’s tailored clothing by demographic: J. Ferrar for millennials, Collection (by Michael Strahan) for guys in their 30s and 40s, and Stafford for guys in their 40s and 50s. • Created an even stronger focus on Levi’s, a true destination brand. Says Thomas, “We have one of the most impactful Levi’s presentations in the country with shout-outs on 501s, 515’s, NeverWash and many of the new fits. (Of course, we also do strong presentations for Dockers.)” • Added a more contemporary look to Arizona, a value-priced store brand (more often perceived as a national brand) launched 30 years ago and now
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Prices effective 6/3/18-6/17/18, unless otherwise noted. Items are subject to availability. ”Original” and “regular” prices are offering prices that may not have resulted in sales, and intermediate markdowns may have been taken. Prices not effective in closing JCPenney stores or JCPenney Final Take stores. JCPenney reserves the right to limit returns or exchanges without a valid receipt. “Sale” events exclude Best Value merchandise. Percentages off original or regular prices, as shown, unless otherwise noted. Actual savings may exceed stated percentage off. MSRP represents a suggested price provided by our suppliers. MSRP may be rounded down to the nearest whole dollar. Jewelry photos may be enlarged to show detail. Diamond carat weights (ct.) represent the approximate total weight (t.w.) of all diamonds in each setting, unless noted. Diamond solitaire weights may vary between .01 and .05 carat. Diamond total weights may vary between .01 and .08 carat. Some diamonds may consist of fewer than 17 facets. For all jewelry sets, diamond carat, weights (ct.) represent the approximate total weight (t.w.) of all diamonds combined. Modern Bride® is a registered trademark of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., used under license. Gemstones and some diamonds may have been treated and may require special care. Buy One Get One Offers: Buy one item at regular price, get the second item of equal or lesser value for either 50% off, free or one cent, as advertised in the specific offer. Some items must be same category of merchandise or same gender. See store associate or jcp.com for details. Levi’s® Jeans Lowest Price of the Season refers to the time period from 6/3/18-6/17/18; Prices may be further reduced on items as a part of clearance in the future. JCPenney limits the sale of all salon products and special purchases to eight of any one item, up to a maximum of twelve items, per customer, per month. Bonus Bucks: Earn a $10 JCPenney Bonus Bucks for each $50 or more purchase during the promotion. Up to 3 per Rewards Member. JCPenney Bonus Bucks can be earned from 6/14/18-6/17/18 and will be issued the day they are earned. Redeemable 6/14/18-6/20/18. JCP.com orders: Bonus Bucks are only earned if items are shipped during the earn period. Some restrictions & exclusions apply. See store associate or jcp. com/bonusbucks for details.
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• Intensified their relationship with Michael Strahan. “Michael is totally hands-on and fully engaged so it’s a pleasure to work with him,” says Joseph Thomas in corporate communications. “We’ve greatly expanded our product offerings. MSX is our new athleisure category that features tees, polos, chinos, etc., many in performance fabrics with quick dry, stretch and cooling properties. We’re also growing Michael Strahan Collection (tailored clothing and furnishings), shoes, luggage and underwear, all of which is already proving quite successful.”
purchased by one in three JCP shoppers, generating more than $1 billion in sales. “We’re remixing it,” says Thomas, “and getting great results. Our teen focus groups indicated that our young customers want more fashion. So we’re giving them more fashion, new presentations and more exciting marketing, while maintaining the quality and value pricing that Arizona has always embodied.”
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OR EXTRA 15% OFF** select housewares, fitness equipment & accessories, floor care, custom blinds & shades, salon products **Extra 20% off select apparel, shoes, accessories, fine jewelry, home, furniture and mattress purchases with your JCPenney Credit Card or extra 15% off with any other method of payment. Extra 15% off select housewares, fitness equipment and accessories, floor care, custom blinds and shades, and salon products. Extra 10% off select watches. Each offer good in store and at jcp.com, excluding taxes and shipping charges, 6/3/18-6/17/18. Dollar-off offers (including JCPenney Rewards) applied prior to companywide percent-off discounts or coupons. Full amount of purchase must be on the JCPenney Credit Card to get the 20% off discount. Subject to credit approval. Does not apply to Best Value, Daily Deals, Levi’s, Disney Collection, Disney Tsum Tsum, Fisher-Price, Licensed Team Sports Merchandise, Columbia, Nike, adidas, Converse, Clarks, Athletic Shoes, Goddess Lingerie, Dreamgirl, Jewelry Trunk Shows, Modern Bride Design Your Dream Ring, Pre-Owned Watches, Smart Watches, Garmin, Fitbit, Sephora, Food, Penney Lane, S’ip by S’well, Electronics, Appliances, Hunter Douglas, Tempur-Pedic, Neato Robotics, iRobot, Sporting Goods/Outdoor Gear, Toys, Baby Furniture, Baby Gear, Personalized Jewelry, Wigs and Extensions, Limited Time Specials, Purchase with Purchase Items, In-Store Services, Home Services, Service Plans, Gift Cards, JCPenney Final Take Clearance Center purchases, Closing Store purchases, current orders and prior purchases, or in combination with other coupon(s). Coupon can be combined with earned JCPenney Rewards and JCPenney Credit Card new account in-store discount. Coupon cannot be used for payment on account. Coupon cannot be redeemed as cash or merchandise credit if merchandise is returned. No cash value. JCPenney may refuse, or limit the use of, any coupon and/or return for any reason, including reoccurring disruptive behavior. Additional exclusions and exceptions may apply. REPRODUCTIONS WILL NOT BE ACCEPTED. INSTRUCTIONS FOR JCP.COM ORDERS: Enter online code when prompted at checkout or call 1.800.322.1189 and mention the code.
• Revamped shops for Big&Tall, another major JCP focus for an underserved market. “JCP is the leading department store in this category, according to NPD research,” notes Thomas. DMM Jeff Useforge adds that first quarter B&T performance is well above plan, boosted by strong marketing efforts including TV commercials on TNT and Father’s Day print ads. In fact, 20 percent of JCPs B&T business is done online, in sizes from 2XL to 6XL and up to a 60-inch waist. • Enlisted Shaquille O’Neal as JCP’s new style ambassador for B&T.
CON GRATULATIONS JA M ES STARKE FROM YO U R FRIENDS AT H AGGAR
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WE CONGRATULATE KENT GUSHNER BOYDS PHILADELPHIA JAMES STARKE JCPENNEY DAVID LEVIN DXL GROUP & BRUCE PASK BERGDORF GOODMAN AND NEIMAN MARCUS
FOR BEING WONDERFUL LEADERS IN THIS INDUSTRY WE CONSIDER YOU OUTSTANDING PARTNERS AND MORE IMPORTANTLY SPECIAL FRIENDS
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{ MERCHANT’S MERCHANT } Says Useforge, “Shaq is a tremendous asset, promoting the brand through lots of social media and television.” Adds Thomas, “Shaq has a unique personality, a strong affinity for the middle class, and he sells in his own way. As a consumer, he’s always had trouble finding value-priced fashion-right clothes in his size, so he truly appreciates what we’re offering. We just kicked off our new marketing campaign on TNT with a terrific commercial! Our Shaq brand (XLG apparel and furnishings) launches in select stores and online this fall and we’re really excited about it!”
running, with an emphasis on performance fabrics. We’ll have an enhanced environment for Adidas for BTS and our own Xertion label is also growing.”
• Differentiated traditional sportswear businesses with enhanced visual presentations, e.g. they elevated Johns Bay (a JCP mainstay for decades) with new designs (a tropical theme for Fathers Day) and bright white fixturing while Izod now features more impactful presentations to enhance its bold colorful fashion. • Created newly impactful activewear areas, including Fanatics shops for licensed team products in 300 doors (will be in 800 by back-to-school); there are actually 300,000 licensed team products available online. Says Useforge: “Fanatics is an incredibly good partner, driving our online channel. The before and after on selling floors is dramatic and customers are responding to the disruption. We’re making them think differently about how they shop.” Thomas notes that activewear is positioned in high traffic destinations with major presentations from Nike and Adidas; Puma and Champion were launched in February and have gotten off to great starts. “We have Nike shops in 600 locations focusing on all sports: basketball, training, 2018-05- Dockers Half Page MR Ad2-Final copy.pdf
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• Formed a partnership with Star Wars and Marvel on novelty shops in 700 stores, featuring t-shirts, hoodies, gifts, etc. • Expanded fashion offerings in young men’s store brands City Streets and Decree. “City Streets is a value brand offering style at a price ($10 shorts, $5 tees) whereas our Decree label is more eclectic and trendy,” explains Thomas. Adds YM senior buyer Marissa Carpenter, “We are a mall-based retailer and fortunately, teenagers still hang out in malls. Our challenge is how to engage them: we’re doing it with trendier fashion, more social media, and marketing specifically geared to teens.” National brands in young men’s include Vans, Ecco and Zoo York. 10:20 AM
CONGRATULATIONS JAMES STARKE
A well-deserved honor! Thank you for your partnership. Many well wishes on your continued success. C
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142 West 36th Street • 17th floor • New York, NY 10018 • 800-969-9016
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“Our research indicates that male shoppers look for inspiration and direction when they come into our stores. So we’re giving them both, with a balanced mix of top national and powerful store brands.” JOSEPH THOMAS JCP CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS
truly excited about the newly launched Fanatics shops that are giving a specialty store feel to selling floors in 300 stores for Fathers Day and 800 for BTS. “Fanatics operates the ecommerce platforms for hundreds of collegiate and professional sports leagues (NBA.com, NFL.com, etc) and they’re taking over this business by storm. So we’re thrilled to be getting in on the ground floor as their exclusive brick&mortar partner. We’ll have two tiers of shops, including flagships with TVs and iPads for a fully immersive fan experience. This will help us create a more hyper-localized experience which is key since we already manage 3500 store/ team combinations. (Please be careful how you use that figure or our team apparel buyer will realize how important he is to our success and we’ll have to pay him a whole lot more than we do now...) There’s a tremendous amount of complexity in this business.”
With so much innovation in his menswear categories and May ‘18 business strong, Starke should be happy. Still, we ask what keeps him up at night (in addition to his four kids, ages 10, 9, 7 and 3)? “I worry about the rapid pace of change in the retail landscape,” he confides. “It keeps me up at night but also gets me up in the morning and keeps me invigorated throughout the day. You hear so much these days about creating a friction-less environment between instore and online and how everyone’s chasing that. You hear about the growing population of millennials: how they’re more affluent but less loyal shoppers. And we’re all trying to understand new retail formats like subscription services. So for me, trying to get out in front of the changing retail landscape while managing the traditional parts of our business is by far our biggest challenge. Fortunately, I’ve got the perfect team to make it happen.” l
Turmoil at the Top When JCP CEO Marvin Ellison announced this past May that he would be leaving JCP to head up Lowe’s, some feared it signaled a lack of confidence in the company (and in department stores in general): JCP stock prices immediately dropped and a management team took over the CEO role. Ellison had been running the business since 2012 when he was hired to straighten out company finances. His predecessor, Ron Johnson of Apple fame,
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had tried (unsuccessfully) to eliminate price promotions throughout the store; the resulting alienation of JCP core customers led to a $1.42 billion operating loss in 2013 and $5 billion in debt. Ellison returned the store to its promotional roots, eliminated weak stores and cut layers of management to reduce expenses. Under his direction, private label expanded, traffic increased from initiatives such as the reintroduction of appliances and the addition of Sephora pop-
Former CEO Marvin Ellison has just left the company.
up shops. On the down side, the store remained crippled by heavy debt, 2017 went down as the most promotional year in JCP history and sales
for the first quarter of 2018 were weaker than expected. What will happen next is anyone’s guess but industry insiders believe
that JCP will benefit from Sears closings, and that the current menswear team under the direction of James Starke can propel the men’s business to meet new goals. The growth in Michael Strahan product, the addition of Shaq as ambassador for Big&Tall, the newly launched Fanatics team shops, and revitalized super-shops for core brands Levis and Nike are just a few of the recent initiatives adding excitement to selling floors and cash to the bottom line.
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Congratulations David Levin and the DXL Buying Team. Thank You for 20+ years as Partners. www.majesticinternational.com Majestic RIGHT.indd 1
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BIG MAKING IT
DXL CEO David Levin has transformed how generations of big-and-tall men shop. BY BRIAN LIPTON
Both personally and professionally, David Levin has always been the rare individual who embraces change, whether it meant giving up his own business to try his hand at a new career in California, revamping the mall-oriented, big-and-tall chain Casual Male into the more sophisticated DXL group of stores, or, this year, announcing his plans to step down as CEO of DXL at the relatively young age of 67 (after finding his replacement).
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hrough all the twists and turns of his life, Levin has not only listened to his own head and heart, but also to his customers. More than anything else, this is what’s made him one of the men’s fashion industry’s most respected and successful leaders. That’s not to say Levin started out in fashion with some master plan. At the age of 19, he and his fraternity brother, Ed Davidson, opened a small fashion boutique at the University of Iowa. (In the 1970s, this meant painter’s pants, bowling shirts, and lots of jeans.) The business eventually expanded to three college towns. “Whatever was cool, we had it, and people wanted it,” recalls Levin. After a 12-year-run, Levin decided he needed a change of pace and moved to California, where he became an assistant buyer of men’s shoes at Mervyn’s, before moving on to bigger and better positions at Payless, Revlon, J. Baker, and, eventually Designs Inc., where he became CEO in 2000. “They had 100 Levi’s and Dockers outlets, but Levi’s volume had dropped from $6 billion to $3 billion, and as one of their largest dealers, we saw the writing on the wall,” says Levin. “Then in 2002, I discovered Casual Male was coming out of bankruptcy — it was a business I knew well from my time at J. Baker — so I went to our board and suggested they roll the dice. We were able to raise a lot of money and buy Casual Male at a bankruptcy auction and also divested the Levi’s business. We really struggled those first years, but we eventually went from $150 million in debt to debt free.” Even if Levin couldn’t completely foresee how the big-and-tall business would change, he knew it was the right business in which to invest. “Historically, big-and-tall was a conglomeration of mom and pop businesses, and a category no one was ever successful in. We inherited 500 stores, while our next largest competitor had five,” he recalls. “To put it bluntly, the big-and-tall business was a roadmap of roadkill. It was just too tough for independents to be
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“We’ve seen an increasing emphasis on fashion: this is no longer a meat-and-potatoes business.” DAVID LEVIN
successful, since there were too many sizes to accommodate and small stores had too little critical mass to do their own private label business.” But critical mass is exactly what the current DXL group does have. The company now comprises close to 350 stores nationwide: 230 are DXL stores, five go under the Rochester Big and Tall umbrella (which the company bought in 2005) and 102 remain Casual Male shops. In order to accommodate the right amount of merchandise, most of the company’s stores range from 5,000 to 10,000 square feet (with a few slightly larger ones, including its famed Las Vegas store). “In the old days in some cities like Boston, customers had to shop two or three Casual Male stores to fill their needs, since each one was only about 3,500 square feet and could only fit so much clothing,” Levin confides. By design, stores are located outside traditional shopping malls. “There’s a reason the D in DXL stands for Destination,” he notes. However, even when he’s taken prime real estate, like the fabulous DXL store in New York City’s chic Flatiron neighborhood, Levin has cleverly put the selling floor below street level, thereby cutting down on the rent. DXL stores carry broad assortments of everything from denim to furnishings to sportswear and tailored clothing at a variety of moderate to better price points. “When we started out, we discovered that even if we had a Casual Male store within throwing distance of a Rochester store, only 25 percent of customers crossshopped the two,” he explains. “If you were a Casual Male guy,
you felt intimidated at Rochester, and if you were a Rochester guy, you had a preconceived notion that Casual Male wasn’t upscale enough for you. So we soon learned how to combine the two concepts – and how to do it in the right environment. What our customer really appreciates is not just the broad range of prices and broad assortment of goods we offer, but that our stores have wider aisles, bigger dressing rooms, well-trained salespeople and in-store tailoring. In fact, many of our customers have said they would happily drive an hour just to find everything under one roof in a friendly upscale environment.” ndeed, the variety of merchandise in so many sizes at a typical DXL is staggering, another reason why there are so few competitors. “In most of our stores, we carry up to 6XL, and online up to 8XL – though our sweetspot is 2XL to 3XL,” notes Levin. “We often tailor the assortment to the city we’re in. For example, in Miami, customers tend to be shorter and fuller, while in Philadelphia, the consumer is an overall big guy. Where we’ve really had to adjust our buying in recent years is in pants: we now offer over 50 combinations of waist sizes and inseams. It can be hard for our guys, most of whom are in their 40s and 50s, to find anything above a 36 or 38 waist in most stores, so we start at 38 and go to 48 or even higher. And since some big guys are actually quite short, we even offer 30-inch inseams.” One thing Levin is adamant about — and has been since the beginning — is making sure that sizing is uniform throughout the store. A 3XLT shirt, for example, will fit the same whether the
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“Where we’ve really had to adjust our buying in recent years is in pants: we now offer over 50 combinations of waist and inseam sizes.” DAVID LEVIN
consumer is purchasing it from one of the store’s more famous designers or its seven private label brands (most notably Harbor Bay, Society of One and Oak Hill), a consistency the DXL consumer appreciates and relies on. In fact, Levin shares that DXL’s online return rate is well below 10 percent, a figure basically unheard of in the industry. “We work with all our brands to create a fit we know our customer will be satisfied with,” he notes. “After all, how much money can a store make if 25 percent of the inventory is returned every day?” ithout question, DXL’s strength in product development accounts for much of its success and longevity, according to Levin, who notes that 55 percent of DXL’s business comes from these store brands. “Among the many reasons our private label does so well for us is that we’re offering quality and fashion at a price; most consumers think our store labels are national brands at value pricepoints,” says Levin, adding that most of the company’s private label products are priced at about 50 percent below the nationally-known brands. Although much of the upscale branded product at DXL is somewhat higher priced than it is in regular sizes at conventional stores, Levin does not consider this a problem. “Our customers un-
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dertand that their sizing requires more fabric and more effort in product development and they’re willing to pay that difference for our broad assortment of great brands.” In fact, customers who favor well-known designer names can find all their favorites at DXL. While Polo Ralph Lauren remains its leading brand (every store has its own Polo shop-in shop), the roster of marquee names has expanded over the years to include more than 100 different labels, from Robert Graham to Michael Kors, Tommy Bahama, Lacoste, and Cole Haan,. Moreover, customers can find top-notch brands in every possible category from footwear to furnishings. “Perhaps the biggest change I’ve seen since I started in this business is the increasing emphasis on fashion,” says Levin. “This is no longer a meat-and-potatoes business. Our guys care about the right fit and the right look. Middle-aged men who used to be afraid of stretch now won’t buy bottoms that don’t have it. Big men need longer ties than other guys, so we sell those. These men have wide feet, so almost all of our shoes come in wides. And performance is a big issue, too, especially in the golf market — which is huge for us – and the athletic wear department. We always listen to our customers’ needs.”
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CONGRATULATIONS,
DAVID LEVIN recipient of the
MR lifetime achievement award!
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“To put it bluntly, the big-and-tall business was a roadmap of roadkill.” DAVID LEVIN
That skill is especially important, Levin notes, in order to attract new and younger customers, a growing segment of the business. “We’ve had difficulty over the years attracting the younger customer,” admits Levin. “But we’ve seen a significant increase in our young men’s category in the last 18 months. Our fashion product is resonating with the younger guy who shops more often and spends more money than our average customer.” And younger guys are buying tailored clothing, a healthy and growing business in a mix that is sportswear-dominated. Suit brands (many available in both nested and separates) include Peerless’ Tallia and TailoRed labels, along with Jack Victor, Ralph by Ralph Lauren and Geoffrey Beene, while dress shirt labels Brooks Brothers and Michael Kors are among the store’s top-sellers. (The company has also instituted a custom shirt program, which is a lifesaver for those men with big necks but short arms, as an example). Formalwear is a much smaller category; however, the company is trying out a tuxedo rental program. As might be expected, e-commerce also factors into the DXL equation, accounting for about 20 percent of the company’s sales. (DXL has a presence on both Amazon.com and Walmart.com). The company’s website is especially popular with its largest-size
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customers, since they can find shirts with a 24-inch neck or pants with a 72-inch waist. E-shopping is also popular among those consumers seeking extra value, thanks to a variety of daily and weekly specials offering significant discounts; however, according to Levin, e-shoppers have a somewhat higher income level than those who come into the stores. iven everything DXL does so well, why isn’t every bigand-tall man in America taking advantage of the store? “Marketing is definitely our biggest challenge; awareness of DXL is not yet where I’d like it to be,” Levin admits. Still, the company has tried a variety of marketing strategies over the years, ranging from television spots to print advertisements to catalogs (which have been discontinued) to its current loyalty points program. “Fortunately, we have good word of mouth from our customers; we know our guys are excited that they’ve finally found somewhere to shop with all these great brands, and they’re talking it up to their friends,” adds Levin. Asked if he has any qualms about retiring, Levin says he is more than content with his decision. “The average CEO is in that job about 5 years, and I’ve had nearly a 20-year-run. I feel good about what I’ve created and the legacy I’m leaving behind.” l
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REASON TO BELIEVE A $10+ million investment in his Philadelphia landmark store reflects Kent Gushner’s unwavering confidence in the future. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
Alex (Gen 4) and Kent (Gen 3) are shaking things up at Boyds.
Opinionated, brutally honest, thoughtful, humble and totally driven, Kent Gushner has long been one of the most respected merchants in the men’s business. father and uncle in 2004; Kent is now sole owner), while showing me around the spectacular new women’s space on the first and mezzanine floors, complete with top designer product, striking fix-
Boyds: Fast Facts Established: 1938 by brothers Alex and Albert Gushner Location: 1515 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia Core customer age: 45-60 Store Size: 50,000 sq ft selling space over four floors # Employees: 130, including 39 full time tailors
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Key Menswear Brands: Zegna, Cucinelli, Canali, Brioni, Isaia, Trussini, Current renovation: a $10 million project by DAS Architects Women’s to total store: 20% today, 40% goal Menswear Breakdown: 60% clothing, 20%
furnishings, 15% sportswear, 5% shoes Opening price suit: $1195 Trussini Mission: “Our current goal is to change customer perception of Boyds from a mature men’s suit store to an exciting fashion store for men and women.”
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e’re in it for the long haul,” confirms Boyds’ president and third generation owner (he and his brothers-in-law purchased the store from his
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“We had many fights about removing our marble staircase but I finally decided we’re a store, not a museum. Still, the process cost a fortune (and surely took years off my life!)” KENT GUSHNER BOYDS
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tures and seamstress stations throughout. Modern yet retaining the beautiful classic details of the original building, the new floors are light, airy, colorful, sophisticated, and pulsing with positive energy. “In the four weeks our new space has been open, our women’s business is up 57 percent,” Gushner notes with obvious pride. “And this energy is spreading throughout the menswear floors, even before we renovate those.” So despite being 10 million dollars poorer and despite generally flat recent sales in menswear, Gushner is amazingly optimistic. (And as usual, willing to discuss even the most problematic aspects of the business.) “All in all, I’m having fun,” he insists. “I love the challenge of what we’re trying to do here; it gets my juices flowing. As for the difficult state of menswear business overall, I believe it’s due to several factors. First, there’s no new trend or compelling direction in men’s fashion; the vibe is very mundane. Second, which might or might not be our key problem, we’ve been closed for seven months on our first floor in order to build the new women’s space. Another
issue in men’s is the intrinsic nature of the audience: women are by nature interested in fashion; most men, even younger men, are not. And the fashion parameters that exist on the men’s side are much narrower: there are so many more options in women’s! So there you have it: a perfect storm. Time will tell if there’s a remedy but I don’t believe the simple answer is product…” o what’s the solution for menswear merchants struggling to compete? For Gushner, it’s the intangibles: the vibe, the presentation, the sellers, the total in-store experience. “When retailers complain that the industry vibe is lackluster, I get that. But so many store owners today are in their twilight with no succession plan and little concern about the next decade because they’re not intending to be here. Their mission is simply to hang in. If I didn’t have a son in the business, I might feel the same way. But I don’t think so: as long as I’m in this business, I want to be excited by it, and challenged. The last thing I’d want is to coast along and watch the business gradually erode…” At 58, Gushner admits that he’s thought about retiring. But
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A Place in History
AT AGE 80, ESTHER GUSHNER (DAUGHTER OF FOUNDER) CONNECTS PAST WITH PRESENT.
My father Albert (aka Abe) and his brother Alex (aka Elek) emigrated from Russia and started a little business together in Philadelphia — a series of small haberdasheries. They had so little inventory that they’d sell out of their window displays. Their success grew during WWII since they were able to procure
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white shirts when few other stores had access to them. After the war, they added tailored clothing and specialized in Big and Tall. Wilt Chamberlain and other professional athletes were clients; they established a strong niche business. Next they traded up, adding a few luxury lines like Zegna and Brioni. They also built a huge business in leather jackets, selling to a diverse demographic. I remember how well the two got along, with none of the rivalries that often plague family businesses. They were opposites in terms of personal style so when a customer asked to meet “Mr. Boyd,” my
father would appear since his French moustache gave him a certain flair, (Sadly, both brothers died of aneurisms around the same time: my father six months after Alex. My mother believed he died from a broken heart because he loved his baby brother so intensely.) When my father wanted out of the business, he didn’t offer it to either of his daughters; that just wasn’t done at the time. But I ended up going to work for Gerry, my oldest first cousin. Although I never had ownership in the business, I changed my name back to Gushner and was delighted to keep the family tradition
alive. (Even today, it’s so special for me to visit the store and see some of the same associates I knew as a little girl.) Under Gerry’s leadership, we sold zillions of ultrasuede jackets: customers bought them in every color, especially snowbirds because they were lightweight. Gerry was responsible for the move to 1515 Chestnut, the nicer side of town. His wife would sometimes call asking if Gerry was available, noting that if the store had a bed and a shower, he likely wouldn’t come home at all. I met my second husband at Boyds (he was a top customer) which is of course my fondest
memory. But what’s with me always is the work ethic that permeates this entire family. The store has always been their baby; for every generation of Gushners, the dream is to continue the legacy. And Kent is adding so much to this: letting the old-timers stay while hiring new young talent, building a beautiful lunchroom so associates can mingle, creating gorgeous new selling floors and an environment of personal service and human connection. There’s a wonderful quote that says “the most precious gift that one person can give another is attention.” And that’s the ethos I truly feel at Boyds.
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just for a second. “I still love what I do! Plus I have not only a next read, incorporates two floors. The second will be all categories of generation on board but also an 80-year-old legacy that I’m proud menswear except tailored clothing: contemporary and designer to perpetuate and 130 employees to whom I feel responsible. And sportswear, luxury and gentleman’s sportswear, lots more footwear. grateful. They’ve been incredibly loyal and tremendously instru- The third will be all tailored clothing, with notably more space devoted to MTM. Both floors will be divided mental in the company’s success. Many into a classic/traditional component and are now in management and are helping a more modern/contemporary side, each me achieve new goals…” with lifestyle-appropriate décor, music, These new goals, Gushner explains, staff, etc. The fourth floor’s focus is (at were facilitated by an executive coach he “Tailored clothing this writing) yet to be determined: a bar, hired a couple of years ago. “She worked and furnishings remain restaurant, leased beauty brands, a café, with me to dig deep into the structure the core of our a salon? (All bets are on!) And of course of the company and compile an order Boyds’ fabulous light-filled top floor tailor chart to run the company in a more menswear business; shop remains their pride and joy, along professional way. That’s the path we’ve I’m looking for a bigger with a newly built dining and schmoozing been on, trying to build a structure to piece of a smaller pie.” area for associates. position us to open a second (and possiKENT GUSHNER BOYDS bly third) location. What I Iearned (and hile Boyds was late to the wish I’d been smart enough to focus on game with its online busiearlier) is that without developing the ness (launched just six right foundation and infrastructure, it’s months ago, including an in-house photo tough to run a second store without killing the first. Clearly, what studio), Gushner acknowledges its importance. “Still, at the end of we’d built up to now was not scalable so we’ve brought in a CFO, the day, online for us is more marketing tool than profit center. a head of marketing, a general manager; Andrew Weisbrot is our Nor do I see it becoming a profit center as long as we’re a single head of furnishings and sportswear, Deborah our jewelry buyer, unit store. I can’t imagine any specialty store making money onAlex our made to measure specialist. So for the first time, we have line: the cost of being in the business the right way is too prohiban organization that’s scalable—not to 15 stores perhaps but at least itive; how the hell do we have a chance of competing with the big to a second and, God willing, maybe a third someday, all in the guys? Returns, overhead, advertising to drive sales…and of course Philadelphia area.” we don’t have the inventory the big guys have. So to me, you’re The new store design for menswear, coming to fruition as you damned if you do, and damned if you don’t. But we’re investing
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THE SARTORIAL GROUP OF WAINSCOT MEDIA
congratulates GAINLUCA ISAIA FAHERTY BRAND KEN GUSHNER BRUCE PASK AND THE OTHER MR AWARD
HONOREES. COLESON DAMIANI DAVIDSONS CLOTHING FOR MEN GARMANY JOHN CRAIG LEVY’S M PENNER MR SID POCKETS MENSWEAR RALEIGH LIMITED SYD JEROME TAYLORS, RICHARDS & CONGER WOODBURY MEN’S SHOP
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{ RETAIL VISIONARY AWARD }
“Of course we need brands but I’ve learned that few have intense consumer loyalty. At the end of the day, the brand that most matters to me is ours.” KENT GUSHNER BOYDS
in it, mostly to create a window to the store. We don’t expect to be a major online player, but it’s a way to change the perception of Boyds from a men’s suit store to men’s and women’s luxury fashion. If our online component can create awareness of our spectacular women’s fashion and drive traffic to the store, that’s a win for me, and the ultimate benefit.” Gushner maintains that declining foot traffic means more than declining sales. “Stores with declining foot traffic (most stores these days) cannot keep their employees engaged and satisfied. Even if lost in-store sales can be balanced by more online business, when morale and energy are down, business is hard to maintain. I know that sales associates in the major stores are becoming disgruntled: many are calling me saying that they’re not happy; they’re selling less and it’s a downward spiral. And clearly, the caliber of help in many of these majors has also declined.
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“So, in addition to vendor websites sucking the air out of brick and mortar, store associates are particularly resentful to lose business to a division of their own company, and to handle returns on sales they don’t get commission on. So we’ve decided to give our online commissions to our in-store associates even if they did nothing to make the sale. It then becomes their responsibility to process the sale and run with it: write the note, follow up, develop a relationship. Hopefully, the customer might appreciate a call or email from a real person. In this way, an online purchase triggers a personal relationship so the sales associate feels the website is helping rather than hurting.” After just a few months on e-commerce, Gushner confides that most of the business is coming from his existing customers. Asked to discuss the actual impact of brands selling direct to consumer, Gushner is realistic. “In the old days, this would have
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Market Insights “Kent was born to be a retailer,
following in the footsteps of his father and grandfather but developing a passion even stronger than theirs. He is a perfectionist who’s never wavered from his vision to be the best and never lowers his principles. He can be tough: as a vendor, you have to earn his order. He works tirelessly but is also a most caring person—truly concerned about his family, employees and friends. Like his father Gerry, Kent never brags or shows off; he’s not out to impress anyone with what he has, only with his amazing store! “In fact, the relationship between Kent and his father was beautiful to watch. Even when Gerry was ailing, Ken included him in business, making him feel valued. And the look of pride on Gerry’s face when Ken would discuss future plans for the store was something very special. “I’m sure some people must think he’s crazy to spend $10 million on renovating the store but Kent sees the future. (At this point in his life, he probably could have
retired comfortably by just selling the parking lot!) And watching him work with his son Alex, I can see the passion filter down. (Alex worked for me for a while at Peerless and I tried to figure out how to steal him…) “Bottom line: Kent Gushner is the real deal: a great merchant, a wonderful human being.” Ron Wurtzburger, Peerless
“Kenny has been an unofficial ‘mentor’ throughout my years in the business. He has been one of the people I have looked to for clarity on topics both professional and personal. A few things that I observe about my time working with Kenny — he is one of the only wholesale clients that to this day hand writes his own notes during every appointment. This demonstrates how seriously he believes in his business. What’s more, Kenny doesn’t get easily persuaded by trends, he sticks to his instincts and follows his gut on all decisions. He is confident enough to listen to input but ultimately makes his own best decision. Kenny is a true entrepreneur and the definition of risk taker. He usually believes in mitigated risk, although this store renovation
would lead you to believe otherwise. He’s been buying from Italy for longer than many stores today have been in existence. He continues to represent the true ‘made in Italy’. He believes in family values, not just with his blood family, but also his store family.Many employees have spent their entire lives at Boyds. Kenny is not the easiest client to work a wholesale appointment with; however it is certainly one of the most rewarding and meaningful. You can always count on Kenny to tell you exactly the way he sees something; absolutely no sugar coating. “ Geoff Schneiderman, Eleventy
“Kent is a very special guy: he has tremendous ambition and is always looking to bring in what’s new and fresh. He’s
both on top of the trends and obsessed with quality. Since we’re both family businesses, we’ve become friends and it’s a pleasure
Here’s why vendors value their relationship with the Gushner family
to watch his children grow into the business. I believe the new Boyds will be among the best stores in not just America but the world.” Raffi Shaya, Raffi Designs
“I remember when Gerry Gushner, Kent’s father, first introduced Kent to me at the time I was running Brioni. During that
meeting it didn’t take me long to realize this third generation Gushner would keep the storied Boyd’s tradition in place. There’s a lot of conversation about how the industry is experiencing challenging times. Kent, in my opinion, understands the opportunity and has aggressively and successfully transformed Boyds during this challenging period. This shows confidence and courage to move forward when many in the retail industry, both big and small, are trying to figure it out. Gerry would be very proud to see how Kent has enhanced this impressive family institution. Joe Barrato, JJB Luxury Consulting
“The Gushners have always been a great American retail family.
It is no surprise that under the stewardship of Kent and Alex , Boyds will remain a major force for generations to come.” Arnold Brant Silverstone, Samuelsohn, Hickey Freeman
“Kenny is very attentive, focused and detail- oriented
(he can have a full conversation while never taking his eyes off the fabric table); his deep knowledge of every aspect of his business, as well as of his clientele (Kenny spends a lot of time on the floor), allows him to have a clear idea of how to best merchandise the store. He’s totally dedicated, passionate, driven by numbers and, at the same time, open to new products and directions. Giorgio Canali
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{ RETAIL VISIONARY AWARD } meant the end of the relationship but if I thought that way today, I wouldn’t have any brands. But at the end of the day, the only brand that matters to us is Boyds; the others are just a means to an end. That’s why the store has to be based on a foundation beyond product. I’ve learned that there are very few brands out there to which guys are truly married. Certain business are more branddriven: handbags, beauty. But even in women’s ready-to-wear, very few women come in requesting specific brands. They want a look, a price, a sensibility, but not a brand. So I can no longer worry about vendors selling direct, especially at suggested retails. If they’re promoting online, or selling to off-price stores, I’ll probably cut back but not drop the line completely. I’m also mindful not to make any one brand too dominant in my matrix: I don’t want to be in that 80/20 world with my suppliers, not even the best ones. This strategy allows me to introduce more emerging brands with limited distribution or designers indigenous to my city. To me, this is a better alternative than offering only the major brands. If your clients learn to expect a regular infusion of new labels, you’ve got them coming back!” Asked about competing with the majors in King of Prussia (Nordstrom, Neimans, Saks, Bloomingdale’s, etc), Gushner’s response is also pragmatic. “We have to be competitive with the majors, especially in women’s where markdowns are earlier and deeper (I’m still not used to it!) So I try to position the brands so that they’re trading for reasons other than price. I’m not naïve enough to think that price doesn’t matter; I’m not delusional. But
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were I preoccupied with what other stores are doing, I couldn’t function. So I follow them, of course, but try not to overreact. We have the opportunity now to take our business to a different level but we have to be flexible enough to change and we have to execute perfectly. There’s still a place for brick&mortar retail but it’s got to be done right. A store can’t be too big or too small; I don’t think the majors are positioned correctly for the current climate.” hile Gushner’s oldest son Alex (28) is already well-entrenched at Boyds as a MTM specialist, Gushner is unsure whether his other two children will join the business. “My daughter Jessica worked in women’s fashion until she met her fiancé and moved to Providence to finish her MBA at Babson. But she truly loves fashion and always wanted to move back to Philadelphia so we’ll see… “The jury’s also out on my youngest son Andrew. He’s at Tulane contemplating law school but he also loves fashion, much more than I do. So it would be great if he came into the business but I’m not pushing it. Of course, like most businesses, we need to look younger, think younger, act younger. All this retailer talk about catering to millennials is too often just talk without an action plan— younger sellers, younger music, online marketing and social media. It’s a whole different ballgame than what we’d been doing. So we’re now trying to straddle the fence a bit: retain our core customer (average age 45-60) while adding a younger generation. That’s a hard dance to do sometimes but our new store design and a terrific team should give us the foundation.” l
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{ RETAIL VISIONARY AWARD }
Family Ties
KENT ON HIS FATHER (GERRY) AND GRANDFATHER (ALEX)
My Grandfather was a phenomenon in so many ways. He was a wonderful people person—much better than I am. He was dedicated, motivated, smart (although coming from eastern Europe, I don’t know that he finished even high school...) He had a charm about him that was infectious and he could sell anybody anything. He was funny. And fun! Most kids spend time with a grandfather because they have to but I loved being with my grandfather—I’d sometimes think he was missing a marble or two but that’s what
I loved about him. When he’d come up from Florida he would spend much time in the store, to the delight of our associates and customers. And he’d get on the loudspeaker and say things like ‘This is the godfather: I enjoyed my visit but I’m going back to Florida…’ It was like ‘Attention Kmart Shoppers’ and we’d be a bit embarrassed. But it was wonderful! My Dad was a different generation, but fortunately he got my grandfather’s work ethic, smarts, passion and drive. He was more educated,
of course, and somehow always made the right decisions: when to trade up, when to change direction. He Alex had a lot of balls, my father. He was tough but fair, never demanding anything from anyone that he wouldn’t do himself. Even if people didn’t like him, they had to respect him. Most importantly, he was a marvelous mentor and father to me. As involved as he was in the
Gerry
business, he was unusually good at delegating, at turning over responsibility to me relatively early in my career. Not many fathers are able to do that: many hold on to the decision-making well past
their time to move on. But even after I was running the store, I made sure to make him feel needed, to reinforce his sense of worth, to let him know he was still a vital part of the business (especially since he had few other interests or hobbies). And of course he was!
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{ FASHION GAME CHANGER }
EMBRACING THE NEW
Bruce Pask and his team show what it takes to update a retail business for today’s consumer. BY STEPHEN GARNER
Bruce Pask has taken tremendous strides in modernizing Bergdorf Goodman’s merchandise mix – bringing in a younger clientele, and freshening up the look of the store.
CORY VANDERPLOEG
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orking together with SVP/GMM Melissa Lowenkron, Pask has embraced the new guard of menswear and streetwear; as a result, brands like Kith and John Elliott sit next to Prada and Valentino. His success hasn’t gone unnoticed. Just last year Neiman Marcus Group, the parent company of Bergdorf Goodman, gave Pask the added responsibility of men’s fashion director for their namesake stores. Now, Pask travels the world to bring luxury, style and wit to these stores’ affluent customers. Pask entered the fashion industry in the nineties beginning his career at GQ magazine, Cargo magazine, and most notably as men’s fashion director at T Magazine: The New York Times. He has also worked as a freelance stylist and fashion editor, during which his extensive styling and costume work included prominent campaigns for The Sopranos and American Express, as well as numerous covers and celebrity features in Vanity Fair magazine, along with creative direction for numerous campaigns for notable menswear brands. But Pask was no stranger to retail; he worked at Gap and ESPRIT during college, where he would shine helping customers on the sales floor. “I really loved working on the shop floor,” says Pask, recalling his time in college. “That was always fun for me and those were some of my favorite jobs. Then I moved to New York after college and my first job here was a stock boy at Paul Smith.” He also credits the very early experiences he had as a child growing up in Arizona where his mother owned a children’s shoe store. “I was raised in retail by my mother,” explains Pask. “I used to go to shoe shows with her when I was a bit older and she always liked to listen to my opinions, because I was a kid – her target demographic. So, I felt appreciated in that way. But I also think there wasn’t any sort of big thought process on her part on taking me around the market. She was just really interested in what I had to say, and it provided a great foundation for me to make creative decisions and to feel that these decisions were legitimate.”
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{ FASHION GAME CHANGER }
“It wasn’t this deliberate move, it was more about paying attention and being aware of what is going on out in the world. Seeing what people are wearing, recognizing that the designer customer is really evolving is what made us move on and start adding new categories for this new customer.” BRUCE PASK BERGDORF GOODMAN
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eing at Bergdorf’s for four years now, he feels that both his magazine and retail backgrounds have led him to this job that seems uniquely tailored to him. “It’s interesting because magazines and retail are very similar in their structure,” says Pask. “I always used to partner with the advertising side of magazines, I always knew that publishing was there to support what we did in editorial and vice versa. I absolutely believe that it’s the same relationship here with the fashion office and the merchant office. Josh Schulman, the president of Bergdorf’s at the time, very cleverly put Melissa (Lowenkron) and I together four years ago to head up the men’s store. We both had these pieces that fit well together, and I believe many things contributed to our partnership and friendship. But I particularly want to thank Josh for seeing that we would make great partners. We certainly did, and do to this day, and I really credit his as-
tuteness because I think that has set the tone for what we have achieved here.” One of the first major projects that Pask and Lowenkron tackled together was adding more streetwear and athletic-inspired sportswear to Bergdorf’s Fifth Avenue store. “It wasn’t this deliberate move, it was more about paying attention and being aware of what is going on out in the world,” admits Pask. “Seeing what people are wearing, recognizing that the designer customer is really evolving is what made us move on and start adding new categories for this new customer.” Pask’s first brand that he brought in was John Elliott – a person and brand with whom he still has a close relationship. “John Elliott was the first brand we added to speak to this more athletic take on clothing and fashion,” says Pask. “John helped me understand that the younger designer generation really appreciated the history of MR-Mag.com | JULY 2018 MR
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{ FASHION GAME CHANGER } Bergdorf’s; he also saw how the new guard could be a part of that history. This was really important information to hear.” Inspired by Elliott’s words, Pask and Lowenkron moved on building the business. “John was also the first personal appearance/event that Melissa and I did, and tons of people were lined up to meet him on a Saturday morning, I’ll never forget it. It was a real moment that resonated with me, like ‘wow, this is something’. And that was the same day Ronnie Fieg from Kith came into the store to see John, and Melissa talked with Ronnie for a really long time. Then we eventually opened up his shop-in-shop in 2016. It has been amazing to speak to people like John and Ronnie to see the reverence they have for the store, as well as their vision for how they can participate. This was really inspiring to me, and it led us to redefine the context of the store.” fter bringing in John Elliott and Kith, Pask was able to usher in new guard designers like Virgil Abloh of Off-White and Jerry Lorenzo of Fear of God. “Once we started to build out this new area on the third floor, this new younger customer emerged and supported us. Having Virgil in the store and seeing him interacting with his ‘kids’, as he calls them, and realizing that this group of designers can be a part of our store DNA, it’s exciting. But, remember it’s only one floor.” Pask and Lowenkron have also grown and expanded their part-
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nerships with a slew of luxury sartorial brands, including Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, and Berluti. They also moved sneakers up to the third floor adjacent to designer collections and made a separate area for dress shoes. Pask notes the decision to separate footwear was based on two different buying habits of the customers. “We recognized that we needed to put sneakers on its own floor because a lot of the guys shopping for sneakers shop with their friends and it’s more of a group activity, while the business man shopping for dress shoes is more personal. We wanted to give those guys their own separate space and respect. What seems like a little move turns out to make a big difference in the way customers interact with your store.” Pask also reiterates that none of this would be possible without Bergdorf’s close-knit team. People often ask me ‘what is a fashion director, what do you do?’ And I go back to when I first met with Linda Fargo, the fashion director of the women’s store. She was really clear and very astute, telling me, ‘it’s not about being imperious. The buyers are the buyers, and we are here to inform them but it’s not the fashion director’s job to say this is what I want.’ She was right; we are a team and we respect each other. I really do believe that we share a collective point of view. When one of us has a thought, we have the trust among us to get behind it and support it.” l
“We recognized that we needed to put sneakers on its own floor because a lot of the guys shopping for sneakers shop with their friends and it’s more of a group activity, while the business man shopping for dress shoes is more personal. We wanted to give those guys their own separate space and respect. What seems like a little move turns out to make a big difference in the way customers interact with your store.” BRUCE PASK BERGDORF GOODMAN
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The Forum Group congratulates GIANLUCA ISAIA FAHERTY BRAND KENT GUSHNER BRUCE PASK and the other MR Award honorees. Thanks for your contributions to a vibrant menswear business.
ANDRISEN MORTON GARYS HUBERT WHITE KILGORE TROUT LARRIMORS MALOUFS MITCHELL STORES OAK HALL RODES RUBENSTEINS STANLEY KORSHAK
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{ SPREZZATURA AWARD }
GIANLUCA ISAIA:
DEFINING STYLE A beloved industry icon, Isaia also makes some damn nice suits! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
Well known for his outgoing personality, charisma, charm, somewhat eccentric personal style, irreverent advertising, beautiful clothing, fabulous parties, and an uncanny ability to connect with people, Gianluca Isaia is the epitome of Italian elegance and effervescence.
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is company was founded by his grandfather Enrico in 1920, first as a fabric supplier, then as a clothing company. As Gianluca tells the story, his father (also named Enrico) and two brothers added the manufacturing component in 1957 when they moved to the small town of Casalnuovo where half the people who lived there were tailors. Here, we speak with Gianluca about his business and his life.
What is your current mission/goal for your company? For yourself? To spread the word of Napoli’s beauty and artistry to the rest of the world. This year, we will be launching a School of Tailoring in Casalnuovo where our factory is, in my parents’ honor. The school will teach the next generation of tailors the sartorial skills needed to continue the tailoring tradition of Napoli. For the company of course, my goal is to grow the business and open stores, but my main mission in life is to have all the people I work with wake up happy to come to work in the morning. If I can do this, I am successful.
Talk a bit about your distribution in the States: who are you selling and how’s business? What are the best-selling items/categories from the current collection? I sell to my friends!! It is like a club and I get to be a member — nothing makes me happier than to have all their support and friendship. As for best-sellers, we can’t make enough sportcoats! Coral polos are also hot and thankfully, we still sell lots of shirts and five-pocket denim.
What distinguishes the more successful stores from the less successful ones? Assortment and service! Making the customer feel at home is great — making them feel at home and helping them find their inner voice is even more rewarding!
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{ SPREZZATURA AWARD }
“We take our craftsmanship very seriously, but we don’t take ourselves too seriously.” GIANLUCA ISAIA ISAIA
What is unique about Isaia and to what do you attribute its success? We live by passion. We take our craftsmanship very seriously, but we don’t take ourselves too seriously. We like to have fun and enjoy life, and it shows in everything we do.
Could we talk a bit about prices? What is your retail price range on suits for fall 2018? How will rising wool prices impact the business? The average price on a suit that we sell for FW18 is around $4500. But we sell a product, make, and lifestyle not defined by price. We always aim to find the right value in our product offering, but if the price of wool goes up, the price of the suit goes up.
Can you discuss model/style changes in suits for next year? Are fits getting looser? As we service numerous countries around the world, we have models to choose from that vary in fit. We are always experimenting with new initiatives but we believe our current core fits cover the needs of our customers.
You are known for some really quirky advertising: which have been your most/least successful ads and can you share some of the responses you’ve received? We aim to tell a story with our ad campaigns. It’s not about just showing a suit or a jacket we are trying to sell. It’s about communicating an idea. One of the most beloved campaigns was the one we did in 2008 right after the market crash in the U.S. It featured a man in a sharply dressed suit, hunched in a corner crying. It really captured the sentiment of the time. We were showing a ‘real man,’ one who is not afraid to cry, to express himself or to be passionate and share emotion.
What can retailers be doing to make their business more exciting? Look for ways to connect with your customers in more meaningful ways and create opportunities to get to know them better.
How would you describe your personal style? Truly my own. (I am famous for wearing sandals with my suits; I’ve been doing this for years!) MR-Mag.com | JULY 2018 MR
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{ SPREZZATURA AWARD }
“Making customers feel at home is great; helping them find their inner voice is even more rewarding.” GIANLUCA ISAIA ISAIA
What are your top tips for men to look their best? Be comfortable in your own skin. Be confident. Don’t try too hard to be perfect. (There is no such thing). Make sure your clothing fits you properly. And if you’re not sure – ask for help! Lastly, don’t follow any rules.
Describe a perfect day: where you are, who you’re with, what you’re doing. A perfect day is on Capri, on my boat, with friends and family.
What would you change about yourself if you could? Nothing. Okay, maybe I would play the violin.
How does Italian style differ from American style? More importantly, how can the clothing industry inspire American men to dress better?
What do you want to be doing in ten years?
It’s all changing now. American men used to be more conservative when it came to silhouettes, experimenting with color in their wardrobe, etc. Today, their style has become more fluid, which is great. True style comes from being comfortable in your own skin. In Italia, the word is “sprezzatura” which roughly translates to an effortless style that doesn’t look like you’re trying too hard. The industry can inspire American men by illustrating these uncontrived kinds of looks. The more imagery we put out in the world to communicate the options available to today’s ‘modern gent,’ the more we can expand the menswear conversation.
How do you always seem so happy, even in this newly competitive environment when so many industry insiders are miserable? What is your secret to making work fun?
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In 10 years I hope to be doing exactly what I do now; in 15 years I’d like to be running a very special boutique hotel in Capri with the best food, wine and art, where interesting people from all over would come to experience the best of Capri and Napoli.
You have to be grateful. We’re very lucky to have grown the business my grandfather created, and we’re proud every day of what we can accomplish. Most importantly, when you have the right team in place around you, it doesn’t feel like work! l
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{ BEST EMERGING BRAND }
BROTHER ACT
In five years, twins Alex and Mike Faherty have catapulted their namesake brand to national success. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
Just as young authors often use their own lives as inspiration for their first novel, then-30-year-old twin brothers Alex and Mike Faherty looked no further than themselves back in 2013 when they launched their namesake brand with an eco-friendly swimwear line.
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ive years later, Faherty has evolved into a successful yet still-growing business with $25 million in gross revenue (almost all of which goes back into the company), split evenly between wholesaling, retailing at their own stores and e-commerce. And while it’s the more recently launched women’s line that’s growing fastest, menswear (shirts, jackets, bottoms) still accounts for 80 percent of the company’s business. Retails currently range from $55 for a T-shirt to $400 for a cashmere sweater, with the average item costing about $120.
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“There’s no question the brand is an extension of ourselves,” says Alex. “Mike and I think of ourselves as regular guys, so not only do we make clothes we want to wear, but we create clothes we believe our friends want to wear as well. Of course, we’re always trying to give them a little extra style or a fresher color palette. Newness and modernity are definitely among our key words.” Adds Mike: “We definitely want there to be an inclusiveness in what we design. And that philosophy is necessary, because these days we’re selling clothes in Venice, California (a shop-in shop at Stag), in Memphis, in Aspen, in Greenwich Ct and in New York
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{ BEST EMERGING BRAND }
“As much as we realize that taking risks on new brands can be hard for retailers, we get frustrated when they expect new product to sell just as well as their established brands.” ALEX FAHERTY
City, among other places. But while other new brands worry about being the coolest guys on the block, we’re more worried about comfort. We know that’s what the majority of guys comment on — not how ‘beautiful’ the clothes are. So we develop our own fabrics that are custom made for us in China and India. I learned a lot from working at Ralph Lauren about the importance of the right yarn, and when people feel our clothes, they immediately notice the looser, softer hand. It helps us to stand out.” ndeed, standing out from the pack is of paramount importance to both Mike, who studied fashion at Washington University before designing for Ralph Lauren’s RLL Line, and Alex, a Yale University graduate who worked in corporate finance. They were both top-notch student athletes — they grew up on the Jersey Shore and later New York City — and both claim their competitive natures, learned from their years in athletics, have helped guide them forward for the past five years. “I want the brand to always be better,” notes Alex. “It’s a constant search for ways to improve what we do. We’ll read whatever books are out there, we’ll listen to podcasts, we’ll ask whatever questions necessary to get it right. I think we both consider ourselves students of the fashion game.”
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That commitment is one reason the brand has done so well in the hard-to-crack wholesale business, where its customers range from department store giant Nordstrom to the country’s finest specialty stores, including Mitchells, Oak Hall, Fred Segal and Stag. “Faherty is an incredible success story. The brand has captured all ages with great clothes that project a comfortable lifestyle,” notes Bob Mitchell, co-CEO of the Mitchells Family of Stores. “Also, the family is fabulous and fun.” “We know the wholesale business is particularly competitive, which is one reason we work so hard with — and rely on — our retail partners,” says Alex. “Our retailers have a long-existing relationship with their customers, so when they give us advice and information, we listen. But it’s definitely been a challenge to overcome what I call the incumbency of the industry. As much as we realize that taking risks on new brands can be hard for retailers, we get frustrated when they expect new product to sell just as well as their established brands. I remember our first season we got picked up by Nordstrom — right after the Las Vegas trade shows -- that meant a lot to us. I still recall sending samples to them over Labor Day weekend; we’re thrilled they’re still one of our major partners.” Says Mike: “I often say the biggest challenge we overcame was MR-Mag.com | JULY 2018 MR
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{ BEST EMERGING BRAND }
“While other new brands worry about being the coolest guys on the block, we’re more worried about comfort. We know that’s what the majority of guys comment on — not how ‘beautiful’ the clothes are.” MIKE FAHERTY
just getting in the door with our first little collection. I admit we had no idea what we were doing. We had our mobile store-cumtrailer that we drove around the country; we did a lot of in-store appearances; and we basically fought and clawed and scratched for the first two years to make our way in an industry that isn’t always welcoming to new people and brands. We really had to keep pushing to get into some of these stores.” Is that why there are now six Faherty stores across the country? Not exactly, they say. In fact, having their own stores wasn’t part of the duo’s original game plan, but sometimes opportunity pops up when it’s least expected. “Back in 2014, we stumbled upon this great spot on Thompson Street that had a kitchen, backyard, and a separate apartment. So we carved out about 250 square feet in the front for selling space, and soon it became our first store and our corporate headquarters, And because of that tiny store, more people began knowing who we were,” says Alex. “Our store in Malibu happened next, but mostly because we love the Malibu Country Mart. And then I started to go a little crazy and began signing on for more locations,” he continues. “It really helps that our mother, Nonnie, is a full-time decorator, and we couldn’t do any of this without our family friend, Ryan Law-
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son, and my wife Kerry (who is the company’s president and heavily involved in its retail expansion, including its newest store, an 1,800-square-foot emporium on NYC’s busy Prince Street.) But I think we’re done with opening our own stores for now.” e are so excited to graduate to a bigger store, one that can showcase more of our product line and lifestyle,” says Kerry. “A huge part of our heart lies in SoHo, the local restaurants and coffee shops. We’re thrilled to not be venturing too far away from the local community we’ve come to know so well.” Indeed, one major advantage of having their own retail stores, the brothers admit, is that it allows customers to see a wider assortment of the Faherty line. “At our Bleecker Street store, our men’s bottoms business is as good as our tops, which is interesting since we don’t sell a lot of bottoms at wholesale. Part of the issue with wholesale, as much as we love it, is that it cherry picks your line. So these stores are a great way to present our product expansion and show everything we can do,” notes Alex. “In fact, I think we’re primed and ready to become a more bottoms-oriented brand. It’s a great seasonless business and we all know that men are loyal to their pants brand.”
“W
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{ BEST EMERGING BRAND }
“I want the brand to always be better. It’s always a constant search for ways to improve what we do. I think we both consider ourselves students of the fashion game.” ALEX FAHERTY
The stores also serve as a vehicle to reinforce Faherty’s strong belief in the importance of customer service. “It sounds corny, but customer satisfaction is what we live for,” says Mike. “It’s why we offer a lifetime guarantee. Nothing eats us up more than when we get a complaint. And I think people respect the fact that we’re still this very hands-on company. We spend time in the stores, we respond to our own Instagram account; there’s a level of authenticity that our customers connect to.” iven that “authenticity” is one of the watchwords that millennials seek out, you might think Faherty would be putting extra effort into attracting this age group. Think again. “We definitely appeal to the older end of that age range, but we are not focused on the younger millennial or even the older baby boomer, and that’s because our demographic often seems forgotten and that’s who we want to serve,” says Mike. “We have noticed a lot of traffic by 20-somethings on our website, but they’re mostly just window shopping. Of course, we want them as customers when they’re ready to move up to something more than fast fashion,” he adds. “ When they’re ready to buy their first house, then we want to be the brand they want to support. But the market is just too crowded
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for us to put our resources into chasing the younger millennial.” Still, fear not, when those customers are ready, Faherty will be ready for them. For example, the brothers are working hard on improving their website. “It’s very important to us that our website has the right technology and the right tools for great customer service,” says Alex. “We grew up as e-shoppers, so we certainly understand its importance And yes, we know Amazon will be the winner in this market, but that’s not something we really worry about. Our entire strategy is about highlighting quality over quantity and we think shopping on Amazon defeats that purpose. In fact, we consider ourselves more like a farm-to-table restaurant, except we’re in the apparel business.” Most importantly, the Fahertys aren’t looking to sell their company to their highest bidder (which isn’t to say they wouldn’t consider taking funds from the right investor) or to move on to another project. “We plan to do this for another 10 or 20 years, or maybe even until we’re 65,” says Alex. “We both like tackling hard challenges, whether it’s an intellectual one or a physical one. To us, this business is like sports and we thrive on the adrenaline we get from being part of it.” l MR-Mag.com | JULY 2018 MR
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SOMETHING SPECIAL
Kansas City’s newest men’s specialty store is paving its own path in the retail landscape. BY STEPHEN GARNER
ULAH (pronounced yew-luh), the brainchild of business (and life) partners Joey Mendez and Buck Wimberly, opened its doors in 2016 to offer Kansas City locals and visitors something different than what was to be found in the community’s current offerings: a men’s apparel and lifestyle store that aims to serve today’s fashion forward and multi-dimensional consumer.
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hroughout the 1800-square-feet of selling space, customers can find a curated selection of products that range from accessible to aspirational and local to mainstream. Expect to discover apparel, accessories, gifts, greeting cards and masculine home décor from brands including Scotch & Soda, Michael Bastian Gray Label, Billy Reid, Rhone, and Rag & Bone – just to name a few. Even after two years in business, Mendez and Wimberly are on a mission to perfect the store – honing in on marketing strategies, creating store events and refining its merchandise mix. “We will never feel like we will have it just the way we want it,” admits Wimberly. “I think we’ll always be evolving the store. I want to keep it interesting.” Mendez (well known for the contemporary business he built at Halls) echoes this notion: “I think it’s a good thing that we’re not satisfied. As good as the reception has been, we’re still not happy with the assortment. We want to improve on the home department and the brand mix.” One of the things the duo is working on is fine-tuning their inventory, especially when it comes to sizes. “We discovered early on that we needed to buy a bit deeper in some of our clothing categories,” declares Mendez. “While I feel we have the right mix of brands, we do sell out of mediums and larges quickly and then we get stuck with smalls and extra-larges. That’s something we improved as soon as we could.” Mendez also admits that because the local guy doesn’t come into the store as frequently as he originally expected – the average shopper comes in to Ulah once a month instead of the projection of every two weeks – Mendez is unable to add new products as often as he’d like. But, they are working on adding new products! “We’re working to develop more of our own private label collection,” says Wimberly. “Currently we partner with local makers to produce our own branded candles, jewelry, shave care line, soap, fragrance and furniture. Soon we will launch T-shirts and build out
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“You have to show them the best of what there is and you can’t take anyone for granted. You want them to feel like they’re visiting someone’s home and that they’re truly welcome.” BUCK WIMBERLY ULAH
clothing offerings from there.” While Wimberly notes that quite a few stores in Kansas City have also started to promote local brands, he goes about doing so through exclusive partnerships with his own ULAH brand in hopes of setting themselves apart from their competitors around town. Another important point of focus for the duo is refining the store’s e-commerce site. “After we opened the doors to the store, it took us about a year to launch our website,” admits Mendez. “That entire first year we were open, customers kept asking ‘are you online, are you online’. Initially, our website started out as something a customer could window shop on. But now we are building it out more by adding more products and content.” Being able to host content on their site was Mendez’s top concern. “It took months for us to decide on a platform to host the site because there were very few choices around for something as integrated as we wanted. But, we landed on Shopify, because it links to your POS system in real time, helps you with reports, links to social media, and hosts content and blogging.” Further, Mendez quickly realized that his goal for the site was not to be as focused on sales as it was on making his brand and store searchable and easy to find, regardless of if you’re in Kansas City
or Australia. Thankfully, with Wimberly’s marketing background, he knew some of the steps needed to do so, like implementing SEO strategies to make the store easily searchable. Utilizing those SEO and search techniques is helping the duo in their marketing as well. Just this year, they tapped Kansas City Royals catcher Drew Butera (who has become a friend and customer of the store) to pose for an e-commerce and Instagram photo shoot. Through Butera’s cross promotion on his own social media and ULAH’s social media, the store was able to link items that he was wearing directly to its website for customers to purchase – closing that conversion circle of marketing to purchase. Other marketing strategies include local magazine advertising, billboards, email blasts, store events, and a printed look book that Wimberly put together when the store first opened. “My biggest surprise was how successful phone outreach has been for us,” adds Mendez. “We call, but mostly text, customers who can then opt in when we have new products or a trunk show they’re interested in attending. And these customers actually show up and buy stuff! We’re very thoughtful about what we send: an email once a week or every other week, but never twice a week. And we text only when something interesting is happening.” MR-Mag.com | JULY 2018 MR
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{ RISING RETAILER } Wimberly adds: “Retail has trained people to hate emails and an overabundance of communication. So, whenever we put someone in our system we usually explain to them that we do all the marketing ourselves, we don’t sell their information, and we just want to be able to reach them when certain events are happening or when their tailoring is finished. And, it’s working!” Asked what he thinks the future of retail will look like, Wimberly responds: “I think it’s going more experiential, more personal, more curated. Every day, people have less and less free time. So, if they take the time to come into a shop, and not go online, you have to present something special. You have to show them the best of what there is and you can’t take anyone for granted. You want them to feel like they’re visiting someone’s home and that they’re welcome. That’s what we are trying to provide.”
Mendez adds: “My favorite customers are the ones who act like it’s entertainment to come in here. It’s a Saturday, they grab their coffee and they come in here just for fun. That’s totally what we want – more customers who think of us as family!” “My favorite experiences are when we have a customer who is skeptical at first, but then warms up to us,” says Wimberly. “Just a few weeks ago, a guy came in as a referral from one of our regular customers and he said he needed a new wardrobe, So, I took him into the dressing room and I started pulling clothes and putting looks together for him. It was a casual and friendly exchange. And you know what? The person who referred him came back a few days later and said that his friend could not stop talking about how great he felt in his new clothes and that we had made a customer for life. Those are the moments that make this job worth it.” l
“My favorite customers are the ones who act like it’s entertainment to come in here. It’s a Saturday, they grab their coffee and they come in just for fun. That’s totally what we want — more customers who think of us as family!” JOEY MENDEZ ULAH
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@SWIMSofficial SWIMS.com
COME SEE THE 2019 SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTION West Coast Trend Show
Southern Clothing Market
Men’s Collective
July 28, 29, + 30th
August 4, 5, + 6th
August 5, 6, + 7th
Los Angeles, CA
Charlotte, NC
Chicago, IL
Suite 411
Suite 613
Booth 10037
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{ SCENE }
SUITE DREAMS
These three terrific hotels are worth the trip.
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2. THE ROYAL TREATMENT If lovely London is on your places-to-visit list this summer, there are few more elegant and convenient places to stay than the recently renovated Royal Lancaster London, which overlooks gorgeous Hyde Park. You’ll be immediately dazzled the minute you enter the lobby to discover a palatial sweeping staircase made of 300 square meters of white Carrara marble which wraps around to the first floor. If you’re seeking more enticements, consider the hotel’s wide variety of first-rate dining and drinking options, including the Hyde Lobby Bar, the excellent Nipa Thai, and my personal favorite, Island Grill, a comfortable bi-level space where talented chef Adam Woolven uses the finest ingredients to create mouthwatering dishes ranging from the superb house-cured smoked salmon to the delectable Suffolk chicken. It’s all fit for a king, queen, duke, princess — or just you! –BSL
Summer getaways get better if you know where to stay! 2.
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1. HOORAY FOR WEST HOLLYWOOD If you’re headed to sunny California for a vacation, look no further than the Andaz West Hollywood. Formerly known as The Continental when it opened in 1958, the hotel has attracted some of the most prominent rockers of all time, including Jim Morrison, Led Zeppelin and Axl Rose. While the current clientele may be tamer, the chic interior of the recently renovated Hyatt property still pays homage to its rock-n’-roll past with tons of artwork throughout the hotel and its aptly named Riot House restaurant, a moniker given to the hotel during its heyday of rocker shenanigans. Other amenities include a rooftop pool with panoramic views of downtown and the Hollywood Hills along with private cabanas and a seasonal fullservice bar, as well as a 24-hour fitness center, complimentary wine hours and much more. Finally, you can book the Andaz (RED) Suite, designed by Jonathan Adler; 30 percent of the nightly rate from the suite goes to fight AIDS with a donation to (RED). –SG
3. BIRTHDAY AT THE BORGATA The gorgeous Borgata Hotel & Casino reinvented the concept of luxury for this New Jersey resort town 15 years ago, and is pulling out all the stops to celebrate this major milestone. Guests can partake in a pair of mouthwatering multi-course dinners at the famed Old Homestead Steakhouse, a special outdoor Birthday Bash, and even a special Patron Tequila tasting party. Best of all, visitors can revel in performances from some of the world’s top entertainers. Add in a superb spa, top-notch shopping, and (if you desire) plenty of gambling opportunities as the icing on top of this fabulous birthday cake — and dig in! –BSL
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OLDIES BUT GOODIES
Pop favorites provide the soundtracks to four fun NYC musicals. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
The magical music we still love comes alive again on stage!
1. THEY’VE GOT THE BEAT The all-girl group The Go-Gos provided some of the catchiest tunes of the 1980s, from “Vacation” to “Our Lips Our Sealed.” Whether you can seal your own lips (or succumb to singing along) during “Head Over Heels,” a cleverly comic musical (set in the fictional kingdom of Arcadia and featuring everything from mistaken identities to sexual awakenings) now at Broadway’s Hudson Theatre remains to be seen. (141 West 44th Street. 855-801-5876).
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2. SEASONS OF LOVE Has any other group ever dazzled us with the brilliant harmonies, synchronized dance moves and sheer musicality of Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons? Given not only this legendary quartet’s enduring popularity, but the fact that the biomusical about their lives, “Jersey Boys,” has found a new home base at New World Stages — after an 11-year Broadway run — is proof positive that we can’t take our eyes (or ears) off of them! (340 West 50th Street. 212239-6200) 3. HOT, HOT, HOT You may not be know the names of composerlyricists Jerry Lieber and Mike Stoller, but you definitely know their numerous hit songs, including “I’m a Woman,” “Hound Dog” and “Jailhouse Rock.” This toe-tapping music’s enduring popularity is the reason for the longawaited return to New York City of the crowdpleasing revue “Smokey Joe’s Café,” which bows this month at Stage 42. By the time the cast gets to “Stand By Me,” you may be standing in the aisles. (422 West 42nd Street. 212-239-6200). 4. DISCO DIVA Few women had as much impact on the music scene of the 1970s and 1980s as Donna Summer, the Boston native who vaulted to international fame with such hits as “Love to Love You Baby,” “Hot Stuff,” and the aptly-titled “On the Radio.” You can hear these rousing songs, and many more, performed by the amazing LaChanze, Ariana DeBose and Storm Lever in the hit tuner “Summer: The Donna Summer Musical” now at Broadway’s LuntFontanne Theatre. For her fans, enough is never really enough! (205 West 46th Street. 800-6538000).
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THE PREMIER NATIONAL MENSWEAR SHOW.
. & Sons Garment Co.
2UNDR 34 Heritage 6 East 7 Diamonds 7 Downie St. A A Fish Named Fred A Kurtz Belt A. Kuehnert & Co Ace & Everett Age of Wisdom Alan Paine Knitwear Alan Payne Footwear Alberto Alden Shoe Company Allen Edmonds Company Alpetora Imports Alpha Industries Alternative Apparel Amalfi Woolen Group Amanda Christensen American Needle Headwear Anderson’s Andrew Fezza Tailored Clothing Andrew Marc Tailored Clothing Angelo Nardelli Anthime Mouley Ties and Pocket Squares Aquarius LTD Aristo Ariston of Italy MTM Cloth Artphere Bags Aston Leather AT.P.CO Atlas International Textiles, INC Austen Heller Austin Reed Tailored Clothing B Bacco-Bucci Shoes Bailey of Hollywood Ballin Ballin Casuals Baracuta Barbara Blank Neckwear & Pocket Squares Barbour Barcelona Baroni BAT Wear Apparel Bed Stu Bellfield Belstaff Ben Sherman Benson Berle Berragamo Bertolini Beverly Hills Polo Club Beware Biarelli Bills Khakis BKLYN Black Dog Blu Blue Blue Lion Blujacket Bobby Jones Bogner Borelio Borgo 28
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WE HAVE THE BRANDS. Bosca Accessories Brackish Brax Feel Good Bridge & Burn Briggs & Riley Brooklyn Brigade Brown Bilt Bruno Magli Footwear Bruno Piattelli Neckwear Bruun & Stengade Bugatchi Bugatti Buki Byford Byron C C + C California C.P. Company C3 Core Control Comfort Calder Callaway Calvin Klein Tailored Clothing Carl Gross Carlo Lusso Carmel Zhao Carrucci Castaway - Nantucket Island CBUK Certified Charleston Khakis Chiari Christopher Lena Cigar Couture Circolo 1901 Citizens of Humanity Clique Cole Haan Cooper & Stewart Coppley Corgi Hosiery CORRENTE Cotton Brothers Country Gentleman Criquet Shirts Culturata Custom Tailors & Designers Association Cutter & Buck D Dakota Grizzly Damon Daniel Hechter Paris Danini Dapper Classics David Donahue Deakin And Francis Della Ciana Demodello & Co. Custom Apparel Clothiers Descendant of Thieves Desoto Knit Shirts - Germany
DIBI Digel Dion Di’Ruggiero DKNY Tailored Clothing DL1961 Premium Denim Dobb’s Hats & Caps Dona Dona Donald Pliner Dormeuil Dream World International Inc. DUCA by Matiste Duck Head Dugdale Bros. Duncan Walton E Edward Armah Effetti Eisenberg International Emanuel Berg Emilio Franco Empire Clothing Enro EN-SOI Enzo Tovare Enzone Ermenegildo Zegna MTM Cloth Escorial MTM Cloth Euro Fashions eyebobs F F/X Fusion Fabio Fazio Faherty Brand Fennix Italy Fidelity Denim Filson Firmani Fisher + Baker Flag & Anthem FLITELESS Florsheim Forrest Lennard Forsyth of Canada Frame Frank & Eileen Frank’s Pants Free Country French Connection Fun Socks G Gardeur Geoff Nicholson Georgio Brutini GiCapri Napoli Gillis London Gimo’s Italiana Gionfriddo, Sweaters & Knits Giorgio Fiorelli Giorgio Inserti Giovanni Testi Gitman Bros.
Gladson New York Gola Classics Good Man Brand Goorin Bros. Gordon of New Orleans Grayers America Greyson Clothiers Gruppo Bravo H h American Tailor H. Freeman Hagen Halsey 44 Happy Socks Hardwick Clothes, Inc. Harley of Scotland Harmony Clothes Hart Schaffner Marx Hart Schaffner Marx Belts & Small Leathergoods Haupt Havaianas Heel to Toe by B&B Socks Heritage By Report Collection Heritage by St. Croix Hex Bags and Accessories Hickey Freeman Hickey Freeman Tailored Clothing Hillflint Hiltl HL Sport Holebrook Sweden Holland & Sherry Hommard Cashmere Hook & Tackle Outfitters Horn Legend Hudson hystrix I I.C Richard Choi Ibiza / Azure iDesign Apparel IMM Neckwear Impulso Ingram Inserch International Laundry Ital Uomo Italo Ferretti Ties J J Brand J&M Est. 1850 J.S. Blank J.Wingfield J.Z. Richards JACHS NY Jack Mason Brand Jack of Spades Jack Victor Jack Victor #Cityline Jack Victor #Easyliving Jack Victor 1913 Jean Paul Germain Jerry Garcia Socks Jerry Kaye Jimmy Sales Corp JKT New York JM Dickens Socks Joe’s Jeans John Cooper John H. Daniel Legendary American Tailors John Lennon
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AUGUST 5-7, 2018 SUN/MON/TUE John Smedley John Varvatos John Varvatos Jewelry John Varvatos Star USA Tailored Clothing Johnnie-O Johnston & Murphy Jon Randall Collection Jose Real K KAM JEANS Kangol Headwear Karissa & Me Kinross Knowledge Cotton Apparel Komono Eyewear and Watches Kroon Kühl L L.B.M. 1911 L.E.N L.E.N Leather Goods La Vita Lacoste LAMARQUE Lambretta Lanificio F.LLI Cerruti Lauren Ralph Lauren Tailored Clothing LCR Black Edition Ledbury Lee Allison Left Coast Tee Lejon Lenor Romano Leo Chevalier Lief Horsens Lipson Shirtmakers Liverpool LLOYD Shoes Loake Shoemakers Loft 604 London Fog Lords of Harlech Luchiano Visconti Luchiano Visconti Limited Edition Lucky Brand Luigi Bianchi M M. SINGER MAC of Germany Maceoo Madeleine Finn Madison Creek Outfitters Majestic International Mantoni Marcello Marcello Sport Marchesi Di Como Martin Dingman Matt & Nat Mattarazi Uomo Mauritius Mavi Jeans MaxDavoli Measure Up Mel Gambert Meyer - MMX Mezlan Shoes Michael Kors Tailored Clothing Michael’s Missani Le Collezioni Mission Belt
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Mitchell & Ness Mitchell Evan Mizumi Collezioni Mizzen+Main Modena mododoc Montechiaro Moore & Giles Move Performance Apparel Muroexe Shoes Murray Hogarth n: Philanthropy Nautica NEW Nigel’s Drape Clothing Nino Valenti Nove Nth Degree Underwear OAS Company Oliver Ridley OPB Orciani Ordean Original Penguin OulKai Over Under Clothing Overton Apparel Oxford Oxford Lads Pacelli Pacific Silk PAIGE Palm Beach Pantherella Pantropic Parajumpers Patrick Assaraf Paul Betenly Peerless Clothing Pendleton Woolen Mills People Footwear People of Shibuya Per Pedes Socks Perfecto Brand Peru Unlimited Pete Huntington Peter Millar LLC Peter-Blair Accessories Petrocelli PieroGabrieli Made in Italy Pig & Hen Ping Platinum International Apparel Group Polifroni Milano Privé Projeck Raw USA Proper Shirtings Psycho Bunny Punto Socks PVH Q by Flynt Quantum Quantum Ballroom Inside Quieti Apparel R. Hanauer Raffi Raga man Red Jacket Redwing Heritage
Reel Southern Remo Tulliani Remy Leather Renoir Reporter Retro Brand Rhythm Richard Harris, Enrico Brindisi Riomar Robert Barakett Robert Graham Robert Graham Clothing & Dress Shirts - Shirt Ave Robert Graham FootwearProdigy Brands Robert Graham Hosiery British Apparel Robert Graham Underwear and Loungewear Robert Talbott Rodd & Gunn USA Ross Graison Rowdy Gentleman Rule 18 Ruth Graves Designs S S.M.N S.T.E.P USA Saint James of France Samuelsohn SAND Copenhagen Sartore Clothing and Slacks Savane Save the Duck SAXX SCABAL SCARCI Schneiders Salzburg Schott NYC Scotch & Soda Scott & Charters Scott Barber Scott Nichol Scully Sportswear Sean John Tailored Clothing Sebago Secrid Sergio Tacchini Serica Shwood Eyewear Signum SLATE DENIM & Co Southern Marsh Southern Shirt Southern Tide Southwick Clothes Squareguard St James of London St. Croix Collections Stacy Adams Neckwear STANTT Statement Clothing Stenströms Sweden Stetson Hats Steve Harvey Stitch Note Stone Rose Strong Suit Sunice Surfsidesupply Co. Swet Tailor
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TAGS Tailor Vintage Tallia Hosiery Tallia Orange tasc Performance Tateossian London Ted Baker London Teleria Zed The Aqua Short The Normal Brand The Park Showroom Theory Thomas Dean Tiger Mountain Toes on the Nose Tommy Bahama Tommy Bahama Footwear Tori Richard Torino Leather Toscana USA Trands USA Trask Trend TRIENT True Grit Truefitt & Hill Trumbull Rhodes Tulliano Tunellus Twentymetrictons UGo Vasare Valentini Vastrm Velvet VINCE. Vincent D’Amerique Vineyard Vines Vintage 1946 Vintage Italia Visconti Black VIV Shirts & Ties Viyella Vuori W. Kleinberg W.R.K Waterville We Norwegians Weekender Sportswear Wesc Wigens Hats Wolf & Shepherd Wolverine Heritage Collection Wood and Faulk Wood Underwear Wool & Co. Sweaters - Italy Woolrich Xxiotti Yongzheng Tailor Shop USA Zacchi ZACHARY PRELL Zanella
FOR UP-TO-DATE LISTING, VISIT OUR WEBSITE.
#chicagocollective
6/27/18 3:54 PM
THE PREMIER NATIONAL MENSWEAR SHOW.
OPENING NIGHT PARTY | SPONSORED BY HARDWICK Sunday | 6:00 - 8:00 p.m. | The Mart River Park
The Chicago Collective’s Opening Night Party has become the staple event for most buyers and exhibitors. Celebrating the show’s opening and Hardwick’s recent rebrand, this lively annual event will take place along the Mart River Park, overlooking the Chicago River. Guests will savor summery cocktails, local brews [sponsored by Lake Shore Beverage] and food [catered by Marshall’s Landing] while enjoying live music, mingling with familiar faces and new acquaintances alike amidst the city’s awe-inspiring architecture.
MARKET HAPPENINGS.
SPECIALTY COFFEE BAR SPONSORED BY ANDERSON’S Sunday & Monday: 10:00 am - 3:00 pm Tuesday: 10:00 am - 2:00 pm
BUGATCHI LOUNGE Daily Stop by the Bugatchi Lounge open throughout the show to take a break, relax, mingle in various events of interest and enjoy the daily happy hour. [Center Lounge]
BARBOUR CAFÉ Breakfast daily | 8:00 a.m. Lunch daily | 12 noon - 2:00 p.m. Buyers & Exhibitors: Join us in the Barbour Café for complimentary breakfast and lunch daily. [7th Floor]
Enjoy the taste of Italy, complimentsof Anderson’s: stop by for an espresso, cappuccino or latte. [Located outside of the Show Office]
GREAT BRITISH BRANDS CELEBRATE GREAT BRITISH FASHION AND DESIGN WITH THE UK’S DEPARTMENT FOR INTERNATIONAL TRADE The UK’s Department for International Trade is proud to support this year’s summer show. We are delighted to bring you closer to the cutting-edge design, longstanding heritage and outstanding quality of UK menswear brands. [Located on the 6000 Aisle]
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AUGUST 5-7, 2018 SUN/MON/TUE
theMART, Chicago
BEER PUB FRONT AISLE Sunday | 3:00 p.m. Check out our front aisle brands: Gillis London, Jack Mason, Pig & Hen, Secrid and Tateossian. Each brand has incredible product and a unique story to tell. Hear all about it all over a brew during our Beer Pub Hour. [Located on the 6000 Aisle]
BLOODY MARY BAR Sunday | 10:00 a.m. - 12:00 noon Need a Bloody Mary to help kick off your day? We welcome you to the show with our complimentary Bloody Mary bar with all the delicious fixings. [Located in the Center Lounge]
FRESH POPCORN SPONSORED BY iDESIGN Daily | 11:00 am - 3:00 pm Looking for an afternoon snack? Stop by for a bag of freshly popped popcorn - sponsored by iDesign. [Located along the 6000 Aisle]
HAPPY HOUR SPONSORED BY BOTRAN
BLOODY MARIA BAR SPONSORED BY TEQUILA REVOLUCIÓN Monday | 10:00 a.m. - 12:00 noon
Sunday | 3:00 p.m. This is going to be juicy: join us in the Center Lounge for a Watermelon Punch mixed up with Botran Rum – the ultimate summer cocktail!
South of the border Mary goes by Maria and takes her drinks with Tequila Revolución. Be sure to check out our complimentary Bloody Maria bar with all the delicious fixings.
[Located in the Center Lounge]
[Located in the Center Lounge]
SPONSORS & PARTNERS
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{ FASHION }
THE NEW
TAILORED CLOTHING
Up in the Hills of Hollywood we explore the notion of how the suit has evolved. We see the reemergence of double-breasted suits in a fuller silhouette, accentuated by atypical colors like pale pinks, yellows, and dusty blues. Let’s go back to a time when men had more fun in the way that they dressed. After all, summer is the season to let loose.
BY STEPHEN GARNER | PHOTOGRAPHY BY MENELIK PURYEAR | GROOMING BY BEN TERRY
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Suit by DAVID HART, Shirt by SATURDAYS NYC
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Suit by TALLIA; Shirt, Bow Tie and Cummerbund by BRUNELLO CUCINELLI; Socks by RELATED GARMENTS; Shoes by DSQUARED2
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THE NEW FIT
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TOM FORD
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Since 1990, retailers, designers, menswear execs and fashion insiders have turned to MR Magazine for accurate information, insightful analysis, innovative ideas and trend spotting, as well as an inside look at the people who drive the menswear business.
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{ THE LAST WORD }
Loose Change But, as it turned out, neither consumers nor retailers were eager to jump on this trend. But with more and more designers including a looser look on the spring ‘19 runways, it might be time to reevaluate. Here Hollywood actor, author and photographer Keegan Allen wears a MSGM pinstripe suit, demonstrating one way to wear the trend. While we know that some traditionalists are not happy about this notion, younger consumers tend to like pairing their suits with plain t-shirts these days, giving it a more casual, approachable feel. Catch our full interview with Allen online later this month. - BY STEPHEN GARNER
96
MENELIK PURYEAR
When trousers first started loosening up in the fall of 2016, fashion experts were quick to cry “death to the skinny pant!!”
MR JULY 2018 | MR-Mag.com
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