NICK WOOSTER GOES DEEP FROM LUXURY MENSWEAR TO INFLUENCER
GREAT GIFTING FOR IMPULSE SALES ALL YEAR LONG
RETAILER MILESTONES
SUCCESS SECRETS SHARED
THE MILESTONES ISSUE
MEN’S SHOW
Experience the Reimagined Dallas Men’s Show this January, featuring a new venue for temporary exhibitors, three days of inspiring events, and legendary Texas hospitality. Plan for Fashion Week and shop new categories from adjacent Western & women’s apparel markets happening at Dallas Market Center!
JANUARY 25 – 27, 2025
Preview Day: January 24, 2025 – 12 – 6 PM
Find trending styles in all categories, including better/tailored clothing, casual and sportswear, contemporary, outdoor lifestyle, Western, gifts and accessories, and footwear.
Enjoy great amenities, including free valet parking, easy access to airports, discounted hotel rates, heated shuttles, a buyer’s lounge, delicious food options, temperatures in the 50s, and more!
Allen Edmonds
Robert Graham at Ken Powers
Allure Suits & Tuxedos
SUN/MON/TUE
Levy’s
Bates & Thigpen
Julius Clothing
Harry Rosen
Garmany
Rosenblum’s
Drinkwater’s
Guffey’s
M.Penner
J.Parker
Pockets
Malouf’s
Ken’s Man’s
EDITORIAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
FASHION & CONTENT
EDITOR JOHN RUSSEL JONES
CONTRIBUTING
EDITORS MICHAEL MACKO, SAMANTHA LANDE, CRAIG CRAWFORD
ART DIRECTOR KARA KABLACK
CREATIVE DIRECTORS NANCY CAMPBELL
TREVETT MCCANDLISS
ADVERTISING
GROUP PUBLISHER LIZETTE CHIN
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER CHARLES GARONE
PRODUCTION
PRODUCTION MANAGERS LAURIE GUPTILL, FERN MESHULAM, KATHY WENZLER
MARKETING & PRODUCTION SPECIALIST CATHERINE ROSARIO
OFFICE MANAGER PENNY BOAG
ACCOUNTING KASIE CARLETON, URSZULA JANECZKO, BRUCE LIBERMAN
ADVISORY BOARD
TINA ANIVERSARIO NORDSTROM
SAM GLASER STITCHED
KARL-EDWIN GUERRE NO CHASER/GUERRISMS
KATIE LIU & MICHAEL KREIMAN BLACK DOG 8 SHOWROOM
ALAN LEINEN HALLS
STEVE PRUITT BLACKS RETAIL
WAINSCOT MEDIA
CHAIRMAN CARROLL V. DOWDEN
PRESIDENT & CEO MARK DOWDEN
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER/VICE PRESIDENT STEVEN RESNICK
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS LIZETTE CHIN, RITA GUARNA
VICE PRESIDENTS NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, NOELLE HEFFERNAN, MARIA REGAN
CORPORATE OFFICE
CELEBRATING MILESTONES
SHARING SUCCESS SECRETS
Welcome to MR’s Milestone issue, recognizing some of North America’s most interesting independent stores celebrating milestone anniversaries this year or next. Be it 10, 50, or 100+ years in business, surviving against so much new competition (vendor stores, digital sites, and retailers now competing with the same brands they helped build) certainly deserves accolades.
In this issue, a variety of very different retailers share their successes and failures, their future plans, their challenges and opportunities, their definitions of partnership, and their lessons learned. Although, in some ways, their businesses are similar (success = beautiful product + inspiring presentation + exceptional service + passionate sellers + talented tailors +
creative marketing), there are numerous notable differences. And while most merchants still love their jobs, many noted the long workweek, increased competition, decline in foot traffic, difficulty finding good tailors and motivated sellers, and the severe increase in operating expenses. Still, most say the camaraderie in our industry, the friendly sharing of ideas and even of product, outweighs the worry.
We apologize to all those deserving merchants not featured in this Milestone issue; ours is a mere random sampling. So, if you work for (or know of) a unique, exceptional, distinctive independent menswear store that belongs on our list, please let us know. Our ultimate goal is always to discover new sources, learn from their experiences, and share inspiring new ideas with our readers.
Among other good reading in this issue: a guide to attracting younger customers by Terresa Zimmerman, founder of the Mainstreet Matters podcasts and Wood Underwear; an ode to fine clothing by designer Joseph Abboud, legal analyst Doug Hand’s assessment of the proposed New York Fashion Act and what it will mean for your business, and an in-depth interview with our cover model and “accidental influencer” Nick Wooster. Nick’s journey through the ranks at Saks, Barneys, Neiman’s, Bergdorf’s, and JCPenney takes many twists and turns. Thank you, Nick, for sharing what you’ve learned from several of the all-time great merchants.
Finally, as hard as it is for me to believe it, MR magazine is also approaching a
milestone anniversary, 35 years in 2025. As founding editor of MR, that means I’ve been in this role for three and a half decades; how can that be? (For the record, Lizette, John and Charles are fast catching up to me!) As echoed by most of the merchants featured in this issue, the best part of our journey has been the genuine friendships we’ve made with so many wonderful retailers and manufacturers. MR would never have made it this far without your encouragement, support, and wise advice. For this, we are eternally grateful!
With much appreciation and sincere wishes for a Happy Thanksgiving and a calm, creative, peaceful, and profitable 2025, Karen and the MR team
“IF YOU WORK FOR (OR KNOW OF) A UNIQUE, DISTINCTIVE, EXCEPTIONAL INDEPENDENT MENSWEAR STORE THAT BELONGS ON OUR LIST, PLEASE LET US KNOW.”
PHOTO BY ROSE CALLAHAN
THE PROPOSED NEW YORK FASHION ACT
The fashion industry’s impact on the ment and global labor has been a fraught topic for decades. At last, it’s at a point where many U.S. regulators are taking action. Enter the New York Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act (also referred to as the “Fashion Act”), which introduces groundbreaking changes and places greater emphasis on sustainability and ethical labor practices.
Introduced in the New York State Senate in 2021, the Bill would require any fashion company selling in New York with global revenues of $100 million or more to provide a transparent and comprehensive report to the Attorney General on their energy, greenhouse gas emissions, water, plastic, and chemical management. Such companies are also required to conduct mandatory due diligence to prevent labor abuses. In addition, they should adhere to global standards for ethical business practices and risk evaluation, as specified by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD). If adopted, companies who fail to follow these regulations could face fines of up to $15,000 per day, with the proceeds going to environmental justice organizations.
into using sustainable fabrics, like organic cotton or biodegradable textiles. Leaning into circular economy practices as brands Patagonia and Outerknown have, providing clothing repair, resale, or recycling services, is another way for companies to consider enhancing their ability to comply with the Act’s eventual prescriptions.
Undoubtedly, this would present a dynamic blend of business prospects and compliance duties for the menswear industry. In preparation, companies should begin to concentrate on incorporating sustainability and transparency into relevant aspects of their business operations. This can start by conducting a comprehensive supply chain audit to identify potential gaps in sustainability and labor practices. These audits would aid in targeting areas where improvements might be needed to meet the Act’s eventual requirements, such as using best practices to ensure fair labor standards throughout the production process and tapping
Admittedly, at this juncture, it’s difficult to speculate what actual compliance will look like in practice, but to make these changes cost-effective, investing in technology will be key. Blockchain technology can be used to monitor and confirm the ethical procurement of goods, while analytics powered by artificial intelligence might be able to optimize supply chains and purchasing behavior to cut down on waste from overproduction. Furthermore, to further promote sustainable practices, 3D designs, and virtual sample technologies could reduce
of material used during the product development process.
Anticipating the Act’s strict criteria on material sourcing and labor transparency, brands ought focus on fostering connections with certified suppliers who adhere to ethical and environmental standards. To evaluate adherence to international labor standards—particularly regarding child labor, forced labor, and worker safety—regular third-party audits are crucial.
Finally, creating a robust reporting will be essential for continuing since it will allow businesses their advancement and offer the demanded by the Act. will be painful to many in the certainly raise operating costs. how those increased costs get passed on to consumers is an open question. The Act may push the fashion industry as a whole to put long-term sustainability and responsible operation ahead of immediate profit. In a for-profit world facing a consumptive culture, this will be challenging. But by doing so, it presents an opportunity for companies to play a leading role in shaping a more sustainable and responsible industry. With research assistance by NYU Law student Upanshi Gada.
Douglas Hand is one of the preeminent fashion lawyers in the country. His industry bona fides include member of the CFDA Fashion Awards Guild, chairman of the board of FIT, professor of fashion law at NYU and Cardozo Schools of Law, and recognized Super Lawyer for the past 10 years. He can be reached at dhand@hballp.com.
FASHION FUTURES
2024 THE YEAR OF UNIFIED COMMERCE
By Craig Crawford
The adoption of technology has made customer journeys increasingly complex and dynamic, explains Rich Lim, Chief Executive at Retail Economics, a London based independent economics consultancy. “Consumers now expect brands to satisfy their needs regardless of where, when or how they shop,” he says.” 2024 is the year of unified commerce where social, mobile, brick & mortar, Artificial Intelligence (AI), and e-Commerce merge to behave as one.
The interdependence between online and offline channels is a critical aspect of the US retail landscape. 40% of US online sales rely on physical touch points with $200 billion to $300 billion of online sales dependent on brick and mortar.
Here are a few bits of phygical (physical + digital) kit helping retailers keep up with consumer demands to increase loyalty and drive revenue through unified commerce.
AI Powered Shopping Assistants
According to IBM it took us 2013 years to generate 90% of the world’s data. Since 2013, we generate 90% of the world’s data every two years! AI is “the glue” to unified commerce, helping retailers and brands make sense of all of this data digital generates.
Meet Rufus, Amazon’s personal shopping assistant. Launched in the US in January and in the UK in September, this conversational intelligent chat bot, is answering questions like “What boots are good for hiking in Wyoming in Oct” or “What are some of the best fashion deals today?” Begone website taxonomy! Hello conversational commerce! Everyone with a prime membership gets concierge-like service.
Google’s Gemini, accessible on the Google App, offers the same experience beyond the borders of Amazon. Get recommendations on products, stores, directions, even write product reviews.
The new face of shopping assistants: Rufus and Google Gemini Icons
Evolution of Retail chart
Courtesy of Retail Economics
Customer Data, Product Data, Supply Chain Data
In a recent fireside dinner held in Munich with the Fashion Council of Germany, Amazon Fashion EU General Manager/Director of Apparel Florian Mair told the audience that Virtual Try-ons may be what they are hearing about, but it’s having your data in order that differentiates you from the competition. Getting the basics right at retail, he emphasized, is just as important as the next shiny new tech toy.
Shop Floor Tablets with informative dashboards powered by Amazon QuickSight, a cloud-based business intelligence (BI) tool, helps retailers create visualizations, dashboards, and reports for real time data insights. Data can be stored in Amazon Web Services (AWS) a cloud based data platform, from existing legacy systems, to leverage other AI reporting tools.
Proximity
Clienteling App unifies all commerce channels into one
Knowing who your customer is and what they want wherever they shop is crucial to maintaining customer loyalty. Acquiring a new customer can cost five times more than retaining an existing one. And loyal customers are five times more likely to repurchase, four times more likely to refer, and seven times more likely to try a new offering.
Clienteling applications such as Proximity inform store staff what’s in a customer’s online wish list, what they have already purchased, and what they are looking to buy, with added features of text and email outreach, appointment booking and mobile checkout — the new norm for digitally advanced retailers.
“Our focus at Proximity is on the powerful blend of human connection and technology. By integrating these, we empower brands to build lasting relationships that consistently increase customer lifetime value by 4-5 times compared to non-clienteled customers,” explains Proximity CEO Cathy McCabe.
“I can’t emphasize enough how Proximity and the Retail Super-App have revolutionized our store teams’ workflow and brought our staff closer to our customers than ever before,” says Camillia Spaczynska Head of Retail Operations for Paul Smith. “Our teams have also been able to outreach to far more customers and manage relationships more consistently and appropriately. The level of insight makes our job easier and our customers engaged and happier.”
Paul Smith reports an 80% response rate to outreach messages sent by the store teams,.
Clienteling customers’ purchase frequency is 2-3x that of a standard customer, with their average transaction value doubled.
Digital leaders have outpaced “fast followers” and “late comers” for several years. The message for this holiday season is clear: Unite or Die!
Digital Leaders Outperform Graph
Virtual Try On, Smart Fitting Rooms, and Self Service
This year retail has moved from prototyping to rollout for interactive screens and tablets, Augmented Reality (AR), body scans, and computer vision in fitting rooms. Customers can easily search and request different sizes and colors of products online in real-time while in the fitting room to virtually try them on or have them brought to the fitting room for In Real Life (IRL) try-ons.
Smart Fitting Rooms are creating positive experiences, increasing consumer satisfaction, accelerating the buying journey, and increasing sales for Zara, Savage X Fenty, Nike, and H&M.
Many consumers are time poor. Self check out cash registers aren’t just for supermarkets anymore. The ability to read QR codes for in store pick up of online purchases (“click and collect”) speeds up collection.
Craig Crawford is a two time Tabbie award winning author and founderprenuer of Crawford IT, (https://crawfordit.com) a London-based consulting firm specializing in the digital transformation of brands; Twitter @getamobilelife; Instagram @getamobilelife; +44 07834584785
Nike’s Berlin Store AI/AR tech informs consumers about product features
Zara Self Check out saves customers’ time
How to get young guys into your store
By Terresa Zimmerman, host of Main Street Matters, founder of Wood Underwear
According to studies by Appnova and McKinsey, younger generations, (Gen Z and Millennials), despite their tech-savvy nature, are increasingly seeking out and shopping independent retail stores. Their motivation lies in exactly where independent retail has its strengths:
1. Desire for curated assortments, unique products, no delivery fees, and no waiting time.
2. Shopping locally helps them feel connected to their communities and allows them to contribute to the success of smaller businesses.
3. Social and eco-consciousness: Aligning with their local economies, communities, and small businesses resonates with younger generations’ concerns over social responsibility and sustainability.
4. Personalized service and intimate shopping experiences that contrast with the impersonal nature of large chain stores or online shopping.
5. Online and Offline Hybrid Options:
Local retailers are increasingly expanding their reach through social media and online platforms, making it easier for younger customers to discover and support them both online and in-store.
Independent retail stores on our main streets are the heartbeat of our communities, offering service, character, and the personal touch that younger generations crave. Many of you are already taking action; there’s so much we can learn from each other to keep this vibrant spirit alive.
Meet your customers where they are, online, and share your journey.
Many independent retail owners are stepping into social media, even if it’s outside their comfort zone—and it’s paying off. Engaging online doesn’t always have to be about posting the expected “outfit of the day” shots. Most customers have no idea what goes into running a retail store or the level of care, craftsmanship, and dedication behind the scenes. When they see these details, they become more engaged. Sharing your story through social platforms not only brings them closer but also deepens their appreciation for your work, creating a stronger connection.
Alex Hamka, founder of Alexander’s Custom Clothiers (Ann Arbor, MI), talks of his hesitancy about social media and Tik Tok. “I never liked social media but when my nephews insisted we needed an online presence, I agreed to shooting some educational videos. I had no intention of being in them, but a guy came to the back of the store and said just keep working, he was going to film it.
Maybe a minute and a half after editing, we posted it, ending up with 2 million views on stuff in the back room, mostly a tailor in the back explaining what he’s doing. We immediately started getting calls from Houston, TX, Palm Beach, CA.”
Create an inviting offer that draws people in.
Sometimes, potential customers hesitate to walk in, unsure if the store is too expensive, too formal, or whether browsing is even welcome. In independent retail, a key part of providing exceptional service is crafting an atmosphere that feels approachable and welcoming. Once they step inside, it’s important to back up that first impression with a thoughtfully curated selection and attentive service that makes them feel at ease and valued.
“One of our assets is that we don’t exclusively go after the super high end,” comments Kory Helfman, proprietor of Ken’s Man’s Shop (Dallas, TX). “We have shirts in the store from $125 up to $350. We have suits in the store at a broad price range. We make sure we have a wide variety for different ages and budgets. We make sure we have slim contemporary fits for the guy who wants that look, as well as classic fits.”
Trust is built on mutual sharing and understanding. Trust between retailers and customers thrives on mutual sharing and understanding. Offering personalized advice—like what to wear and why it works—builds credibility and deepens your connections with clients.
Before he opened his clothing store, Curtis Holloway, proprietor of Suitability in McLean, VA, left a lucrative corporate job to teach veterans reentering the work force after military service about the value of dressing well and creating your own personal style. “It’s gratifying, the people I meet, the relationships. I’ve had so many people tell me, ‘Hey, man, I really don’t need a suit, but I wanted to come into your place based on the enthusiastic way you talk about clothing.’ They all say my story touches them: my decision to walk away from a prestigious 20-year corporate job to sell clothing. I just had a different mindset; I wanted more.”
Why do we love independent retail stores? Simple. It’s about relationships and the personal touch they provide – something that transcends generations.
Dallas Market Center’s Fashion Stars Align For January Fashion Week
MEN’S SHOW HEADLINES BIG WEEK OF LONE STAR OPPORTUNITIES.
January 2025 promises to be an exhilarating time at Dallas Market Center as the Lone Star fashion calendar aligns for its Men’s Show to be preceded by women’s, kids’, Western and English trade events. That’s five shows taking place over seven days creating a dynamic Fashion Week of inspiration for the new year.
The Dallas Men’s Show begins on January 24 at noon with a “hardhat” preview day followed by full access to exhibitors through January 27. Immediately preceding the Men’s Show is the AETA International Trade Show for the business of English riding, taking place at the same time as WESA’s International Western/English Apparel and Equipment Market, January 22-25. And the Dallas Fashion Week begins with women’s at the Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market joined by KidsWorld, January 21 to 24.
“We’ve never had such an opportunity to create an unprecedented event for brands and buyers,” said Cindy Morris, president and CEO of Dallas Market Center. “Retailers can plan ahead to attend one or all trade events to review trends and discover new resources for 2025.”
So where will all these exhibitors fit? Luckily, the fashion marketplace in Dallas spans more than one million square feet, including both permanent showrooms and temporary booths. And for the first time, men’s temporary exhibitors will shift from the 12th floor of the World Trade Center to the historic and handsome mid-century Market Hall, just across Market Center Blvd. Shuttles will run between the two buildings (it’s also a quick walk between facilities, just minutes apart) to ensure easy access to all events.
The men’s market will include a mix of luxury sportswear, tailored, and denim brands, as well as footwear, grooming, and accessories collections plus a growing number of outdoorbrands. The show’s inspiring, trend-driven runway presentation and high-energy party will also be held in Market Hall.
From networking opportunities to fashion inspiration and the perfect mix of brands and retailers, the Dallas Market Center is the place to be in January.
THE ACCIDENTAL INFLUENCER
No one is more amazed than Nick Wooster, a self-described gay kid from Salina Kansas, that he’s been buyer, manager, and fashion director at some of the most iconic stores in America. Now an “influencer,” content creator, and cover model, his is a story of following dreams, taking risks, persevering. Of seeking out mentors and learning as much as possible from each. Of believing in yourself, trusting your instincts, and realizing that setbacks can lead to opportunity. Soon to turn a milestone 65, Nick shares with MR some of what’s he’s learned over the years.
MR: So what is an influencer anyway?
Nick: I don’t know the official definition, or even how I got to be one. I suppose it means you have lots of followers on social media, and you’re able to drive a lot of business. For me, I was attending fashion shows for my job at Neiman’s, and a photo of me taken by photographer Tommy Ton ended up in Vogue! So becoming an influencer was not your lifelong ambition?
It was not, although I always loved fashion. I grew up middle-class in Salina, Kansas. My dad was a mechanic who provided well for his family; following his example, I always worked. As a kid, I loved nice clothes, and (making my mother crazy) I had strong opinions as to what I’d wear, and what I wouldn’t. In high school, I was guided by Lisa Birnbach’s The Official Preppy Handbook. When I asked my mom for a cashmere sweater, she told me that she’d buy me a sweater but not a cashmere one. If I wanted luxury, I’d have to find a job to pay for it. She suggested I go to Joseph P. Roth & Sons, the nicest men’s store in town, and ask if they needed help. So at age 16, I started working there. I owe almost everything I know about men’s retailing to Charlie, one of the sons, who recognized in me a certain taste level. He’d say “Hey Nicky, fix those mannequins” or “Hey Nicky, we need some help with the Christmas windows.” When
By Karen Alberg Grossman
INFLUENCE.
TIMELESS
Jacket: Golden Goose (from women’s collection), Bandana: Kapital, Sunglasses: Jacques Marie Mage, Watch: Cartier
Nick Wooster photographed by Marko Kalfa at Mercedes Club in NYC; grooming by Wesley O’Meara; photography assistant: Eriko Hernandez.
sales reps would come to the store, Charlie would call me over and ask my opinion on which were the best plaids. (We’d take coins out of our pockets and place them on our favorite swatches.) Recognizing a flair, he started taking me on buying trips: to Kansas City, Dallas, eventually NYC. I learned so much.
In college, I majored in advertising since it was the easiest path to graduation. I thought I was going to be Don Draper at a glamorous ad agency, but soon realized that selling space in New York magazine was a job for which I was completely ill-suited. I wanted to get into the Saks’ training program but when I learned they select only from Ivy League colleges, I settled for a job as an assistant department manager, with hopes of qualifying for the training program. But with my shoulder-length hair and unconventional style, I realized I’d never be chosen. As luck would have it, I heard that Peter Rizzo at Barneys was looking for an assistant. I applied, and (shockingly!) got hired, moving up to clothing buyer and learning so much. Peter was tough, demanding, and incredibly knowledgeable. I’m forever grateful to him and to the Pressman family for giving me the opportunity to learn. As clothing buyer for Barneys, I’d go with them to the mills in Italy to choose fabrics, then work with the factories to create our own models. In those days, we were making exclusive private label suits in Italy to retail for $400. It was a highly creative process: deciding single-breasted or DB, what kind of pants to make, how to add fashion pieces to a classic foundation, how to edit assortments…
sport coats. And exactly 125 pairs of tailored shorts; (I know because I recently counted them!)
I started wearing tailored shorts when I saw them on Thom Browne’s runway. At the time, I happened to own a J.Crew suit with pants too long so I hacked off the bottoms and wore it to work. I was working for Neiman’s at the time (2010) and there were two schools of thought about my wearing shorts to market appointments: half the team (the Neiman’s half) was horrified, the other half (Bergdorf’s) thought it was perfectly appropriate, since my job was to represent what’s new. Then Bruce Pask came along and he too wore tailored shorts to work and was allowed to do many of the things I wasn’t. Yes, I was a little bitter about that but I’m proud that I paved the way. And as much as it was a dream job for me, I didn’t need to be there any longer than I was…
How did you get that coveted job at Neimans?
I had heard Tommy Fazio was leaving, so I reached out to Margaret Spaniola and told her I’d always wanted to be their fashion director. She said I’d have to talk to Ken Downing, which I did; he took three months to get back to me, and no one was more shocked than I was when he offered me the position. (I’m sure they must have exhausted every other option!)
What’s your vision of the perfect suit going into 2025? Ironically, what’s fashion today is exactly what we were making for Barneys in 1987: somewhat oversized, broad shoulders, a fuller pleated pant. Even ten years
“WHAT MAKES A GREAT SPECIALTY STORE: THE ABILITY TO EDIT, TO CREATE A UNIQUE POINT OF VIEW.”
ago when I collaborated with Lardini, I was doing pleated pants. Although I never wore DBs in the ’80s, I’m really liking them now. A model change gives customers (and me!) a reason to buy something new!
And here’s the interesting thing about men’s wear: everything starts with women’s! It then filters into men’s designer, then into men’s traditional. So as a men’s fashion person, even before all the gender-fluid styles that appeared several years ago, I’d always study women’s first. And that’s why I love menswear: it’s not hard to project what’s next, and there’s plenty of time to get it right.
What’s in your closet these days? Can you explain your affinity for tailored shorts?
I have very few suits in my closet but probably 75
I was grateful but nervous: it was the era of peak street style. I was unfamiliar with the forces impacting fashion at that time. It was before Instagram; I didn’t know what Tumblr was, or who Scott Schuman was. But I’m convinced that because I was fresh meat and because trending photographer Tommy Ton took a few interesting shots of me, I became content for blogs and social media. I didn’t have a plan to promote myself: my job at the time was to attend fashion shows for Neiman Marcus. Looking back, I’m grateful to Neiman’s for imposing a jacket-and-tie dress code at that time. Of course, I didn’t follow it exactly: instead of a Brioni suit, I’d wear a herringbone Harris tweed sport coat, knit tie and jodhpurs. I thought I looked exactly the part but in hindsight, I understand why NM execs disagreed. They wanted their team to dress more conservatively, to stay within boundaries. Although it didn’t last long, I’m grateful to Neiman’s for giving me the opportunity. Any other formative work experiences? I had several worthwhile consulting stints: at Calvin, Ralph, John Bartlett, and numerous other “names” but surprisingly, working for a year (2012-2013) with Ron Johnson to transform JCPenney was one of the most amazing experiences of my career. In my humble opinion, and of course hindsight is 20-20, nothing Ron was doing to upgrade the stores was fundamentally wrong, but perhaps the order was backwards. We probably should have started out reducing price promotions, not killing them entirely. And we probably should have physically renovated a few stores before announcing Ron’s upscale vision to the press. But 49 out of the 50 weeks I worked with him were the most interesting in my career. I have tremendous respect for Ron, and for the JCP organization. But after that experience, my career was clearly on the skids. I just assumed that I’d aged out of working in fashion, but it was okay. I was perfectly happy with my life in LA: waking up early, reading the papers over morning coffee, working out, juggling a few new projects. And being an influencer…
Caption tktktktktktktk
THE LONG AND SHORTS OF IT. Suit: Thom Sweeney Bespoke, Shirt: Charvet, Tie: Thom Browne, Socks: Falke, Shoes: JL_AL, Sunglasses: Jacques Marie Mage.
SHORTS STOCK. Coat: Junya Watanabe, T shirt: James Perse, Shorts: Sacai, Socks: Falke, Boots: Sacai, Sunglasses: Guepard
“IN MY CLOSET TODAY, YOU’LL FIND 125 PAIRS OF TAILORED SHORTS; I KNOW BECAUSE I RECENTLY COUNTED THEM!”
Were you to open your own store, what would it look like?
I’ve dreamed of opening my own store! It would combine two types of clothing: the classic and the weird. Because if you feature just directional fashion, designers like Comme des Garcons and Yohji, those stores already exist. To me, the more interesting thing is to mix unique forward fashion with classic foundational pieces that most guys can relate to. That’s the void in the market, and that’s what Barneys did on a grand scale. Mix the classic with the new; offer assortments with a fresh point of view, knowing that what’s relevant in Dallas and Nashville might not be right for New York City. Brands should realize how much they need the small city stores, and how profitable it could be to let store owners edit collections according to what their customers want. Rather than dictate assortments, brands should trust the merchants to know their own customers. And at the end of the day, everyone benefits from buying the right items in the right quantities for the right deliveries. At the end of the season, nobody wants racks of clothing at slashed prices…
But back to my own store, I’d include a few special items. Perhaps a set of essential tools (hammer, pliers, tape measure) covered in exotic skins: super luxe, super beautiful, but also useful… I’d offer home goods, wall art, and other creative furnishings.
I’d also offer seasonless product: there’s no reason July 4th assortments should feature bulky sweaters and shearling coats but no swimsuits. I’m just back from Japan where the clothing was mostly lightweight technical fabrics. Although I’m still a Harris tweed/flannel kind of guy, it makes little sense for today’s lifestyle. Shorts are year-round attire in LA.
How do you feel about turning 65 in 2025?
I’m not hung up about age. But when I think about it, it’s crazy: how can I be in my 60s when I feel the same as I did in my 30s?
Part of it is staying fit; part of it is a mindset, an ability to think young. That said, I do believe there’s an agism aspect to working in fashion, and other creative fields: as they get older, 50-yearolds become expensive to employers so it’s harder to find work. The only two fashion jobs that you might not age out of are patternmaking and production, both back-of-house positions. In hindsight, I think it’s terrible that I work in fashion and don’t know how to sew. The three things now on my bucket list are: opening a store, buying a house (so I can decorate it!), and learning to sew. My grandmother was a seamstress and I once asked her to teach me. She refused, insisting that sewing is women’s work, a skill not worth mastering.
Lessons learned from your almost-65 years of life?
Good times don’t last forever but fortunately, neither do the tough times.
RETAILER MILESTONES
By Karen Alberg Grossman, John Russel Jones and Samantha Lande
It’s been said that new businesses take two to three years to be profitable, with the average lifespan of a modern company ranging from 15 to 20 years.
According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, 20% of new businesses fail within the first two years, 45% at five years, and 65% at 10.We dedicate this issue to
those pioneering souls who have kept their doors open through recessions, depressions, epidemics, online shopping, and embarrassing fashion cycles. To those with a genuine passion for fine clothing and a vision to distinguish your stores from the ordinary, we salute you and thank you for sharing your success secrets.
170 YEARS! LEVY’S INC, NASHVILLE, TN
Founded 1855 by Zadoc Levy, now run by David and Ellen Levy, 13 employees “Committed to You and Your Image”
Mission: To build on almost 170 years of integrity and quality craftsmanship, we continue to honor our founder’s vision by delivering excellence and innovation for future generations. We are committed to sustaining a legacy of trust, quality, and forward-thinking solutions. Our core values: Commitment, Community, Integrity, Positive Relationships. What is most unique/special about your store? Reaching this milestone of 170 years, while offering the most progressive collections of timeless style to the everchanging population of Nashville, is a privilege we do not take for granted. Family-owned and run by the fifth generation, we represent generations of tailoring and fashion expertise, modern trends and fresh ideas, and a deep commitment to our community.
Product mix: 50 percent Tailored, 36 percent Sportswear and Furnishings, 14 percent Women’s
How’s business? Business continues to be surprisingly good, with men’s clothing leading the way. We have not seen a pre-election dip in sales. With our 2024 business growth, our booming community, exciting new collections, upward trends in our women’s business, and the excitement surrounding our approaching 170th anniversary, we are projecting continued positive results in 2025.
Best-selling items/brands: Made to measure continues to grow along with Italian and European brands such as Canali, Castangia, Eton, Teleria Zed, Eleventy, Gran Sasso, and Bugatchi. Knitwear is performing well and we expect that trend to continue. Our clients are responding to, and appreciating, the distinctive quality of Brioni, our newest luxury collection.
Top five brands in terms of sales volume: Canali, Castangia, Eton, Joshua Trent (private label) and Jack Victor
Best part of the job: The best part is the relationships we’ve nurtured with clients and their families while assisting with wardrobes for weddings, job interviews, presentations, and other special life moments. We also treasure our relationships with vendors and their families as they help grow our business and expand our successes.
Worst part of the job? The worst part is when circumstances are
outside of our control, such as manufacturing errors leading to poor vendor performance, slow shipping, etc. Fortunately, we rarely have a client who doesn’t acknowledge and appreciate our determination and drive to overcome any problems as an entire team. This often involves our tailors, sales associates, receiving, and of course David and Ellen. Biggest mistake you’ve made and what you learned? When a family member retired in 1998 and David became CEO, we assumed that our long-time sales associates would change habits to be more successful and increase their income. We learned that the habits of long-time sales associates are deeply engrained, making it extremely unlikely that they will embrace change.
Changes ahead: With our growing assortment of made-to-measure single cut fabrics, the entire clothing area of the store is undergoing a facelift. We’ve removed the cases from a windowed area and frequently update that space to showcase new arrivals in either men’s or women’s sportswear. We anticipate upgrading our computer point-of-sale system in early 2025, which will reduce the need for our large cash wrap area. This space will then be used to showcase impulse items and new collections. —KAG
100 YEARS! BATES AND THIGPEN
A Unique Treasure in Baton Rouge
It was 1924 when Jewell Bates and W. Thigpen opened a uniform shop on Main Street. The two had worked together at a local department store and stayed on Main Street until 1965. Bates ultimately bought out Thigpen and brought his two sons into the business. Today, Brad Bates, Jr. (fourth generation) is running the business, now 5,000 sq ft on Third Street.
How have they survived 100 years? Bradley Bates (third generation) weighs in. “We sell nice suits at reasonable prices (average $300 to $350 retail). We don’t mark them up three times or depend upon price promotions. We’re here for our customers no matter what, including showing up Christmas morning to provide suits for a funeral. My daddy and grandfather helped a lot of people in Baton Rouge. We still make uniforms for the fire department, police, post office, and EMS. We’re open nine to five, five days a week, giving us time to have a life and family.”
Bradley, who started at the store 50 years ago, is grateful for the time he had working with his dad, “a fine man and good person,” and cherishes numerous family stories. For example, when his grandpa ran the store on Main Street, a young LSU student stood outside looking longingly at shoes in the window. “I believe they were Bostonians at $12. My grandpa went outside and offered to help him, but the young man acknowledged that he couldn’t afford the shoes. My grandpa suggested he pay a little at a time, but the young man replied that he’s in the military, soon to be shipped overseas, and might not be coming back. ‘Well if that becomes the case,’ said my grandpa, ‘giving you shoes is the
“MY CARRIER PIGEON DIED SO I HAD TO GET A FAX MACHINE…”
—BRADLEY BATES
very least I can do.’”
According to Bradley, fourth generation Brad Jr. wants to reinvent the wheel and modernize. “My carrier pigeon died so I had to get a fax machine,” he jokes. “And yes, we even have a computer. But I’m not giving up my bookkeeping on paper. Or our ledger from 100 years ago listing every purchase made by every customer: date,
item, size, color and price.”
Interestingly, both Bradley and Brad Jr. have had training as mechanics. “In 11th grade, I took an hourly job in a service station and learned so much,” says Bradley. “Not just about cars but about dealing with people. Customer service is surely the most important thing we do, and the real reason we’ve survived 100 years.” —KAG
100+ YEARS! JULIUS CLOTHING, SACRAMENTO, CA STYLE, QUALITY, SERVICE
Established in 1922 as a haberdashery by Julius Anapolsky, Julius Clothing in Sacramento has been around for more than a century, a feat accomplished by few. While the store has seen its share of shifts in both business and fashion, what hasn’t changed is its soul: giving customers a memorable experience while dressing them to look and feel fabulous!
The store has evolved over the years, expanding to 4,200 square feet by adding women’s and fine jewelry to its already bustling men’s business. “Exclusive merchandise, access to custom order, and an exceptional in-store experience have always been our cornerstones,” says third-generation owner Bruce Anapolsky. His parents, Sam and Sharon, took over the business from Sam’s dad in the 1970s. Bruce took over in 2011.
The men’s mix breaks down into 40% tailored clothing, 50% sportswear, and 10% footwear. According to Bruce, key brands are Zegna (“Julius was one of the very first Zegna accounts in the U.S.; we have a special plaque signed by Aldo Zegna”), Brunello Cucinelli, Canali, Maurizio Baldassari, PT01, Pescarolo, Tramarossa, Eton, Emanuel Berg, and Patrick Assaraf. “Custom suits and sport coats are always best sellers; cashmere knits and overshirts had a strong start this fall. In footwear, the Zegna triple stitch shoe is a remarkably successful year-round item.”
While other businesses have relied on online sales for growth, Julius Clothing has kept to in-store drivers like trunk shows. “Our trunk shows drive our entire business,” notes Bruce. “We’re proud of our long-term relationships with our vendors; we buy narrow and deep to fully represent each collection.
“But at the end of the day,” affirms Bruce, “it’s really the people who drive the store’s success, including 10 terrific employees (who have worked together for 25+ years, often making collaborative decisions), long-time vendors, and loyal clients who keep coming back. Like so many of the great specialty stores in this country, we strive to create friendship and trust with every person who walks through the door. Having a store filled with beautiful merchandise makes it easy. But I believe the main reason we reached the 100-year milestone is that our team ensures we keep innovating and evolving.”
Asked about mistakes made and lessons learned, Bruce responds candidly. “Our biggest mistakes have been relying on credit lines: the banks tend to close those when there’s a crisis. Also, COVID was a great educator. It taught many of us that great specialty stores aren’t built around markdowns, which serve mostly to diminish the integrity of the store and the value of your inventory.” —SL
70 YEARS! HARRY ROSEN,
“FOR A LIFE WELL-DRESSED.”
founded 1954 by Harry Rosen, now run by Larry, Ian and Graham Rosen
19 stores, two online storefronts, nearly 1000 team members
Our mission: To empower men to look and feel their best for any occasion. We do this by curating the world’s best product, by understanding the full-range of individual style choices from conservative to high fashion, and by offering the best service in the business (online and in-store!).
Hot now: Elevated sportswear is our fastest growing category. Knitwear, soft jackets, casual pants, dressy sneakers… all are now staples of the modern man’s work and weekend wardrobes.
Outerwear continues to be an important business for us, across luxury collections like Brunello Cucinelli, Zegna, and Tom Ford, but also in brands like Canada Goose, Moncler, Moorer and Herno.
Online sales: Now 20% of our business, we’re confident we can grow it profitably to represent 1/3 of our business. (This ranges substantially by category of course.)
Recent move: We’re developing shared strategic plans that look three to five years out. Working season over season limits the big swings and partnership strategies you can put into place.
Your thoughts on vendors selling direct to consumer?
Canada is a complex market, as many have learned the hard way. We understand how important it is for brands to show up in totality which is why we feature Shop-in-Shop presentations and designated brand champions. That said, we don’t operate a women’s business and realize many brands have other priorities to consider. Our goal is to champion key brands and compliment those with the Harry Rosen value proposition and secret sauce we’ve been developing for 70 years.
Changes planned: We’re more focused than ever on Canada and on men. We’re committed to updating all our stores in the next five years to present the newest retail experience to our clients. We feel this is the most important investment we could make, along with continuing to connect our digital and physical experiences through tools like our Club Harry loyalty program, omni-channel shopping,
and booking online appointments.
Greatest challenges you now face? We’re retailers – what’s not a challenge? The biggest opportunity is people. We have more new people in our organization than ever before and training them in the “Harry Rosen Way” is our top priority.
Strategy for attracting young guys: Believe it or not, young men are very into clothing! They care about how they dress and how they present themselves. More and more of our younger clients are aspiring leaders and entrepreneurs who recognize the value of dressing well. Your secret to having reached this milestone anniversary? We reached 70 years because we haven’t forgotten how we got here. Our evolution as a business is based on the attitude that Harry and his brother Lou adopted on Parliament Street in 1954: take it one customer at a time. Being family-owned and operated ensures that we’ll never allow Harry’s values to fade into obscurity. —KAG
“ONLINE SALES ARE NOW 20 PERCENT OF OUR BUSINESS; WE’RE CONFIDENT WE CAN GROW IT PROFITABLY TO REPRESENT A THIRD OF OUR BUSINESS.”
—IAN ROSEN
Harry (seated), Ian, Larry and Graham (2023)
50 YEARS! JOHNELL GARMANY, GARMANY OF RED BANK MAKING WORK FUN!
“Making work fun! It’s not exactly a mission statement but I feel that if you’re going to spend most of your life at work, you might as well enjoy it,” says Johnell Garmany, one of the most passionate (and candid) retailers we know. Clearly, he’s proud of his team and the fact that he’s shortened their work week. “During the pandemic, I needed to have the whole team here on the same days in case someone got sick. When we opened back up, I stayed closed on Sundays and Mondays to give employees a better work/life balance and an actual weekend. For that, I know they’re grateful. They’re managing to do more business in less time.”
Garmany of Red Bank was founded on November 9, 1974 by much-respected merchant Larry Garmany. It has been in its current 40,000 sq ft location since 2005, with 32 employees and the best luxury brands in the world. Top menswear labels include Brunello Cucinelli, Zegna, Isaia, Kiton, and Christian Louboutin. “Our men’s mix is 30% tailored clothing and 70% sportswear, says Johnell. “But even at 30%, we do a huge business in the tailored world. I see things getting a little dressier for fall/winter. We’re seeing suits trending up again; men might even be rediscovering ties! But while we’re heading toward another record year, there is some uncertainty going into 2025 so I’m being somewhat more conservative with my budget.”
Perhaps surprisingly, Garmany does no online business. “We’ll probably get to it eventually,” says Johnell, “but we’re more of a ‘need to experience’ kind of store.” Asked how he manages to do more business with less traffic, Johnell says it’s easy: “We make every client feel like he’s the most important person who’s ever walked through our doors.”
Asked about mistakes, Johnell says he’s made too many to count. “Probably investing in a POS system and then realizing, within a day of going live, that it wasn’t going to work. We went back to our old one, soon learning that old POS systems are awful.” (Another recent mistake: growing a mustache. “I was told I look like a pedophile,” Johnell confides.)
Asked about competition, he acknowledges lots of it! “Years ago, our only competition was whatever brick-and-mortar stores were in the Short Hills area. Now it’s everywhere! It’s down the street, it’s online, it’s our vendors, and our vendors online.” Fortunately, Johnell has noticed, “Our vendors seem more receptive than ever to working with us. They need us and we need them, so communication is key. But it still makes me crazy when a vendor won’t sell me an item that one of my customers saw on their website. How sad that we risk losing a client because a vendor partner won’t work with us.”
As for changes on the horizon, Johnell is planning to offer more luxury in their women’s mix. “And eventually, we’ll renovate the store. It’s been 15 years since we’ve moved into this location and it’s getting to the point where people are ready for a change.”
Can he sum up Garmany’s success secrets? “I’m not a numbers person so I’ve been lucky to have a guy named Tony Lucia helping me with the financial part of the business. And very lucky that my wife and daughters have been so understanding. The first five or six years were rough on them: I was so buried in my work that I didn’t realize how little I was home. But the main reason we’ve made it this far is my deep desire to carry on my father’s legacy: I feel constant pressure not to eff it up!” —KAG
126 YEARS! ROSENBLUM’S
JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
“My grandfather left Romania in the 1890s,” starts off Bob Rosenblum, third generation at this two-store luxury men’s business. “He built a business in Miami selling pots, pans, and rags from a horse and buggy. He had six children, all in the business. My brother and I are third generation with seven kids between us; generation four includes my son Sheldon (now full-time) and hopefully some of his siblings and cousins will join in.
“Business these past few years has been strong in both stores: the mix in our beach store is more colorful/ casual; in town it’s more conservative. We recently hired two new tailors and three sellers. Combined, tailored clothing (including MTM) is 70 percent of our volume and sportswear is 30 percent. In clothing, we open with Coppley and go up to Isaia, Sartorio, and soon (hopefully) Kiton. Judging from their cars and Rolex watches, our customers have more money than ever, so we’re not afraid to sell high-priced goods.
“What we do worry about is overdistributed sportswear brands selling direct to consumer, and to department stores and even local hardware stores. With their online prices often at 50 percent off, it’s tough for independent stores to make money with these brands.
“Our longevity secret is simple: 1. Great sellers whom we pay well (my brother and I don’t ring a single sale), 2. Strong relationships with vendors (I get to know my vendors on a personal level, and never accept them paying for dinners), and 3. A constant quest for unique, on-trend, special product. We love our customers and have developed strong friendships that can’t be duplicated. Bottom line: if independent retailers do it right, I believe there’s still tremendous opportunity to grow the men’s business.” —KAG
111+ YEARS! FORD’S CLOTHIER
Rocky River, Ohio
This 3000 sq ft menswear emporium was founded in 1913 by William Ford in Cleveland, Ohio. He was succeeded by his son George and then his grandson Geoff. Paul Gorton (who started working for Ford’s as a stockboy while in high school) purchased the store from Geoff in 2008. The team includes Paul, his sister Sally Gorton, Bob Carlson (Paul’s coworker for 50 years) and tailor Tony Donofrio, a 30-year employee.
Ford’s mix is split evenly between tailored clothing and sportswear. Best-selling brands include Jack Victor, Ballin, Peter Millar, Johnnie O and Tommy Bahama. Paul Gorton believes in the power of in-store vs. online sales. “We don’t have a selling website,” he unapologetically explains. “My feeling is that customers want to see, touch, try on and feel the product. Several ways to do more business when traffic is down: get current customers to purchase more when they’re in, or have them come in more often. It’s our responsibility to do this, and to get referrals. Word of mouth advertising still works.”
Gorton maintains that the best part of his job is building relationships with customers and vendors. “I’ve helped the parents and grandparents of many of my current customers. There’s no downside to this career. It’s been a part of my life for the past 53 years.” He also happens to teach at a local university, where he talks to students about the benefits of wearing nice clothes. “Education is key to our success over the years. Good things happen to well-dressed people. They look better, feel better, and do a better job.”
Asked for his success secrets, Gorton is thoughtful. “We don’t try to be everything to everyone. We know our limitations and have stayed relatively small. Over the years, we’ve been approached about expanding and have resisted the temptation. We’ve been located in a wonderful community and have tried to be responsible and respected citizens. We work hard to build relationships with our customers so they come back. Being consistent with our offerings has been a big factor in our success. Good help, good tailoring and respect for our customers go a long way.” —KAG
“GOOD THINGS HAPPEN TO WELLDRESSED PEOPLE.”
—PAUL GORTON
70 YEARS! EDWARD HAMRA, EDWARD’S MEN’S WEAR,
Lawton, Oklahoma
“My parents (first generation, from Lebanon) opened the store in 1954. I started helping when I was 10; I credit them (and blame them) for everything I learned: my values (they taught me to consider my customers’ money as carefully as I would my own), my focus on customer service, my work ethic. The problem is that everyone in my family works well into their senior years: an aunt is 93 and works in a gift shop down the road; another aunt is still working at age 80. Do I really want to work that long?
“Our mix is a balance of tailored clothing, furnishings, sportswear, and shoes. Our clothing retails for $295-$495 on sport coats, $395-$595 on suits. Key clothing brands include the Peerless roster (Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, Tallia, TailoRed), Renoir (incredible value; I’ve learned so much from Patrick) and H. Freeman. Shoes are mostly Johnston&Murphy and Florsheim; sportswear includes Tommy Bahama, Johnnie-O, Luciano Visconti, Patagonia and Duckhead. We do a formalwear rental business that gets young guys into the store.
“The biggest mistake I’ve made (excluding my first three marriages; the fourth is a winner at 36 years!) is the two times we brought in women’s apparel: first from 1982 to ‘88; then from 2006-2023. Our first attempt was women’s fashion from a men’s wear maker; the second was to compensate for losing Big&Tall sales to the internet. (It had been one third of our volume!) That said, overall business these days is very strong: 2022 and ’23 were record-breaking years and we’re beating those so far in 2024.
“Our success secret: I know my niche price-wise, and I’m not brave enough to upgrade. Also, we got lucky: with Dillards no longer in town, we have virtually no competition!” KAG
Eddie Hamra (right) and his brother-in-law Mark Ramming, partners for 36 years.
20 YEARS! DRINKWATER’S CAMBRIDGE: GROWTH BY APPOINTMENT!
Drinkwater’s Cambridge has been a neighborhood gem since 2004. Founded by Gary Drinkwater and Teresa Borges, the store is a 1,200 square feet powerhouse of style and service, with a dedicated team of three full-time staff members and three part-timers.
Mission: To provide timeless, expertly curated menswear, blending classic style with modern elegance. We’re dedicated to offering superior craftsmanship and personalized service, ensuring customers feel confident and comfortable in every piece they buy. How’s business? Business is strong, and we’re optimistic about 2025. While we’ve actually seen an increase in walk-in traffic, 40-50 percent of our business now comes from dedicated appointments. This allows us to offer a more personalized, one-on-one shopping experience, where we can focus on each customer’s unique needs. To continue growing with less reliance on walk-ins, we aim to expand our appointment-based services, ensuring every customer gets the tailored attention they deserve. Additionally, enhancing our online presence and leveraging tools like virtual consultations can help us reach more customers without them needing to step into the store. This balance allows us to keep delivering the high level of service we’re known for, while adapting to changing shopping habits. Best Sellers: Our Drinkwater’s Red private label clothing, blending classic and modern aesthetics. Our Made to Measure shirts—we’re proud to be ranked 6th in units sold worldwide, a testament to the fit, craftsmanship, and customization we offer. And Paraboot shoes for their exceptional comfort and durability. Looking ahead to winter, Harley sweaters are already generating buzz, as is Far Afield sportswear and L’Impermeable outerwear. Top brands in sales volume: Samuelsohn, Drinkwater’s Made to Measure Shirts, Paraboot, and Universal Works.
Online strategy: Our online business primarily serves as a research tool and added convenience for our customers. While a lot of people browse online to explore our offerings, the vast majority prefer to come into the store for their actual purchases. This is largely because they value thepersonalized experience and expertise of our sales staff. Our goal is to maintain that balance—offering a helpful online presence, but ensuring that the in-store experience remains at the heart of what we do.
Best/worst part of your job?
We take pride in helping our staff grow into knowledgeable style
consultants. We love mentoring our team and guiding customers as they buy their first suit, whether entering the job market or stepping up in their careers. It’s about more than selling clothes—it’s about teaching craftsmanship, quality, and service to set them up for success.
We also infuse creativity into our store’s merchandising. Every season, we refresh the space, curating it to reflect evolving styles and trends. This keeps things exciting for customers and allows us to showcase our collections in fresh ways.
The hardest part is managing the ever-changing logistics of delivery dates, which don’t always align with market expectations, or the weather. Fortunately, we’ve learned to manage customer expectations. What are your top vendor partners doing right that you wish others would do?
Our best vendors understand the importance of exclusivity and timeless quality, which helps us differentiate ourselves. We value partners who prioritize long-term relationships with retailers over short-term gains, recognizing the importance of collaboration rather than competition. Vendors selling direct to consumers is a reality of the market, but we believe that personalized service and expert curation can’t be replicated in a direct-to-consumer model.
What changes are you planning to grow the business in the future?
As we celebrate our 20th anniversary, we’re focusing on continuing to evolve with the times. This means embracing new technologies, expanding our sustainable offerings, and refining our services to meet the needs of the modern gentleman.
Greatest challenges you now face?
Striking the right balance between tailored clothing and sportswear. As trends shift, we need to ensure our mix meets client needs without sacrificing our identity. At present, our mix is 50 percent tailored clothing, 40 percent sportswear and 10 percent other.
How are you getting young guys into the store?
We’ve remained consistent in our approach, offering a curated selection that emphasizes style over trends. Young men come to Drinkwater’s because they appreciate our expertise, craftsmanship, and guidance in finding pieces that will last, no matter the changing fashions.
What’s your secret to having reached this milestone anniversary? Adaptability. While staying true to our core values of quality and service, we’ve evolved alongside our customers’ needs and the shifting menswear landscape. —KAG
50 YEARS! OVER THE RAINBOW, TORONTO, ONTARIO
It started with denim in 1975, when jeans were “alternative.” Nearly 50 years later, denim is still the bread and butter at Toronto’s Over the Rainbow, an independent, family-run 6,500-square-foot store in the heart of the bustling shopping district on Bloor Street.
Joel and Jinni Carman, along with their children Daniel and Amy, own the business and consider themselves “bottom experts.” They carry tops to complement their denim, trousers, and joggers, not the other, more typical, way around.
That’s evident from the over 150 selections of denim in the store. These range from newer brands like Japanese Hiroshi Kato to Citizens of Humanity–Over the Rainbow was their first ever Canadian contract twenty years ago.
On any given day you’ll find a blend of tourists and locals, many multigenerational shoppers. A store that’s had such a lasting impact draws third, even fourth generation shoppers frequently.
What is their biggest blessing has also been their biggest challenge. It’s difficult to know how much to preserve and when to evolve to appease their wide customer base.
“We see other stores that either haven’t evolved or evolved so much that they are unrecognizable,” says Daniel Carman.
So far, the store has done a good job toeing the line, sticking to the high-touch customer service, inclusive sizing, and free on-site tailoring that have made it so successful.
“We really lean into that niche, denim shop-
ping experience.”
Still they innovate in other ways like adding casual, contemporary non-denim brands like Patrick Assaraf, and expanding their online business.
Online has been bustling, but they think of it beyond just a place for additional sales.
“We have an integrated inventory system. It’s an extension of our in-store inventory. Customers can see stock levels and styles and make more informed decisions when they come into the store,” Daniel says.
They also feature “coming soon” items that get customers excited to see what’s new as well. “It really is our primary marketing engine.”
As they near the 50th, they’ll certainly nod to the past for the big anniversary with so many stories to tell of yesteryear, but they’ll also start to unveil what the future holds.
“We’ll start developing products for ourselves, our own line, with the knowledge and taste level we have,” says Daniel.
The 50th will bring a ton of event activations but expect more in-store experiential events long past the anniversary year. Activations that carry a purpose and a story, whether it’s online, in-store, or around a product launch.
What they won’t stray from?
“Continuing to source the best brands in the market, pioneering upcoming brands and growing with those we’ve carried for decades,” Daniel says. “We are never going to stray away
from what we are known for.’’
OTR’s denim business is 70/30, women/men, with an “athletic slim” look being most popular in men’s. “Washes vary, but as we move into Fall, we’re starting to see earth tones (grey, washed black, green, brown, off white) come back into style,” notes Daniel.
What’s next in men’s denim? “We are noticing men growing tired of denim feeling like yoga pants. Men want denim to feel like denim again, combined with the comfort they have grown accustomed to. Denim brands and designers who strive to combine traditionally structured denim with comfort will win the race.”
OTR operates in the premium denim space, so AURs run around $285 Canadian, topping out at about $400.
What about sustainability?
“There is no question that sustainability is and will continue to be the way of the future,” says Daniel. “Where clothing is made and how it’s made (unfortunately) only affects a small minority of consumers’ buying decisions. We approach sustainability from a different direction–we want every product purchased in our store to last the test of time. Quality-driven, long-lasting garments are more important to us than brand names. Premium retailers must continue to work relentlessly to distance ourselves from fast fashion. Offering sustainable, lasting garments is the solution.” —SL
15 YEARS! STAG PROVISIONS
15 years of working hard to make it look relaxed and easy.
When the MR team asks the menswear industry to tell us which retailers are doing it right, invariably, Stag—with locations in Austin, Dallas, and Nashville—is at the top of the list. Retailers Don Weir and Steve Shuck have carved out a reputation for superior customer service and providing a varied merchandising mix. Their stores are warm and inviting, easy to shop, and the Stag Provisions website reflects this laid-back vibe.
Celebrating 15 years, the 2,200 square foot flagship remains in its original location at 1423 South Congress Avenue in Austin, Texas. According to Shuck, South Congress is a busy retail street just south of downtown Austin and the University of Texas. Stag employs 60 people across its three locations, an Austin warehouse, and headquarters. What is the most unique or special thing about your store?
Don Weir: I think what makes Stag most special is our merchandise mix. We have a unique, broad assortment of apparel, accessories, and gifts from brands that can’t be found everywhere. With such a diverse mix of goods, we aim to be something for everyone rather than just singularly catering to one type of guy - he can buy an amazing shirt, his favorite candle, or a vintage painting all under one roof. We also focus on products that will stand the test of time. We want him to feel good about the things he gets from Stag for many years to come. Shuck: We also tend to present goods differently than some of our peers. We don’t really present by brand but mix brands together to tell different stories throughout the shop. We want it to be a source of discovery for our customers, allowing them to see a variety of merchandise that all works together. Because we stock so many brands and different price points, this creates a more natural way for him to uncover new things.
What are your top five brands in terms of sales volume?
Weir: We stock more than 75 independent brands in-store and online. Some of our favorites include RRL, Portuguese Flannel, Gitman Vintage, Kapital, BEAMS+, Universal Works, Alex Mill, and Rogue Territory.
What’s your service approach?
Shuck: Our focus is to provide the best possible service to every customer who walks through the door, but in a way that feels relaxed and easy for him. This means having a friendly and approachable atmosphere with a knowledgeable sales team that’s there to assist and facilitate the way each customer wants to shop. Anyone who’s ever shopped our stores knows that we’re anything but a high-pressure sales environment. Sometimes that may come across as too laid back, but it’s intentional. We want to be friendly and available, taking our cues from the customer, which we think he genuinely appreciates.
Describe yourself as a merchant:
Weir: Our strength as merchants has undoubtedly evolved and developed over the years. We’ve learned much through trial and error and listening to customers. Data helps guide us, but we still listen to our guts to make many decisions about product. We have to be willing to take risks each season, betting on where we want to invest or when it might be time to move on from a previous winner. Thankfully, we’ve been more right than wrong over the years. We also partner with our brands to develop goods where we see holes in our assortment or think a different color or design detail might make a better product.
Shuck: It also helps that Don and I have different points of view and distinct personal styles. This means we sometimes have to hash it out in the editing process each season. I may love a piece that he doesn’t respond to at all, and vice versa. What comes out in the wash
is what we collectively think makes the strongest assortment and best offering for the customer.
What’s your secret to having reached this milestone anniversary?
Shuck: Having a hometown like Austin—fast-growing, energetic, and very friendly to independent businesses—has been a huge part of our success and longevity. We’re grateful for having such a supportive community.
Weir: We’ve also had the great fortune of having a loyal customer base from the start. A lot of these folks we’ve known since we opened and have developed friendships with over the years. We even reference some of them when we go to buy or edit the assortment, knowing which customer(s) will respond to a particular selection.
Shuck: We should add that we’ve also employed some amazing folks over the last 15 years. We’re proud that people who started with us as sales associates or even seasonal hires make up many of our management and headquarters ranks. In an industry with such high turnover, we’re thankful that so many people choose to stay with Stag to build their careers. —JRJ
60 YEARS! GUFFEY’S, ATLANTA EXPERIENCES MATTER.
Guffey’s of Atlanta has been demonstrating the true meaning of the “experience economy” since 1965. While founder Don Guffey has taken a back seat, allowing his co-owners Neil Guffey (Don’s nephew) and Tim Richey to take the helm, he was one of the first retailers in the region to pursue the custom and made-to-measure market aggressively. In 2022, Guffey and Richey bought Kirby’s Menswear in Tampa, Florida (initially established in 1959), and the duo is bringing their distinct brand of Southern charm and sophisticated taste level to the Sunshine State.
“The cultures are different at each store, as is the product mix, but our goal is to elevate the store and the product without alienating the existing customer,” says Guffey. “Our mission statement? That’s always been a little tricky for me. We’re trying to have a good time while caring for the people who enter the store. We’re constantly trying to raise the bar without being elitist. We want to welcome everybody and develop relationships with our clients and vendors.”
Richey shares one story illustrating the store’s focus: “We had a client who wore Cesare Attolini. A few years ago, he was planning a European vacation and asked if Neil and I could meet him in Naples and arrange a tour of the Attolini factory. He said he’d like to meet the family and buy the next collection there. We made the arrangements with the Attolini family, then flew over and spent the afternoon with them and the client, shopping and having dinner, then headed home. We spent more time traveling than visiting, but we gave this client the experience of a lifetime. That factory is without peer, and usually the only other people who visit are the CEOs of big fashion brands who want to see how they make those beautiful clothes. We value being able to give our customers an experience.”
“We have a formal rental studio in our shop,” says Guffey. “Doing rentals is a different culture than selling the high-end brands we carry in our shop, but we started doing it because we believed it was a great way to be part of the bridal business. It’s become the best marketing tool we’ve ever had. A young man, 18 to 25 years old, might otherwise be intimidated by the store’s luxury image, but he comes into our store, we greet him, call him ‘mister,’ and then our staff gives him a thorough, expert fitting experience. We shake his hand, and he walks out with his head held high, realizing he’s never been treated that well. It’s not unusual for us to do weddings that have eight or ten guys who normally don’t have a reason to dress up. When they do finally need to dress up for work or an occasion, they’ll return to us.”
Brands vary between the two stores, but custom drives much of what they do in both locations. “If a brand has a custom component, we’ll move towards it,” says Guffy. “We’ve carried Scabal for thirty years, Ravazzolo, Attolini, of course, is legendary, and Oxxford. We do well with Mel Gambert shirts. In sportswear, Italy is always big for us. In Tampa, we do well with Jacob Cohen and Braxx. Both stores sell Meier pants well—also Calder of Carmel and Corgi knitwear. Corgi is potentially heavy cashmere for our market, but we do well with it and sell both men’s and women’s. We’ll do a full-blown English tea party and invite all the wives and women to a trunk show when the designer Lisa Wood is in town!” —JRJ
50 YEARS! M PENNER, HOUSTON TX
Founded in 1974 by Morris (Sonny) Penner, Run by Murry and Karen Penner, with help from son Jeremy. 6,500 square feet, 12 employees
Services: Complimentary in-town delivery; complimentary gift wrap; closet/wardrobe evaluation; rush service; concierge service with local hotels, restaurants, shops; onsite tailor shop; expertise in tailoring, product knowledge, presentation; focus on discovering new brands: (10 percent to 20 percent of seasonal budget goes to new brands). Top five brands by dollar volume (in order): Zegna, Isaia, Brunello Cucinelli, Canali, Santarelli
Online strategy: Our current online sales are under 2 percent; our goal is to reach 5 percent in the next two years. From the outset, we decided that our e-commerce site has two functions: to sell merchandise and to act as an additional window into the store. This second function has proven to be the source of much new client business. Best/worst parts of the job: The best part comes down to the treasured friendships that have been forged over decades: with clients, fellow retailers, vendors, and employees. The worst part: when we let a customer down.
On your vendors selling direct to consumers: We’d rather they not, but we don’t control that. Our top vendors also sell to Neiman Marcus, Saks, and Nordstrom, all of whom have A+ stores about a mile from us and we can’t control that either. So we focus on offering a superior experience. The vendors who are selling direct typically have strong marketing materials that we take advantage of, and by and large, they are supportive partners when we need something. Changes you’re planning for future growth: We’re wrapping up a year-long refresh in the store. We opened up our main selling area by tearing out a behemoth check-out and accessories fixture that took up about 100 square feet of prime selling space. We recarpeted and repainted, updated the fitting rooms, and created a few seating areas. The atmosphere throughout the store is great–luxurious, and relaxed. We’ve always said that our store is our home, and our clients are our guests. The refresh reflects this attitude.
Plans on growing the business include adding to our sales team, continuing to experiment with new brands while growing our business with top-performing brands, growing our online business, improving our social media messaging, and cutting expenses.
Greatest challenges you now face? Finding expert tailors and high-level sellers.
How to get young guys in the store? Staying active on social media, replacing older sportswear brands with newer, more active and unique brands and, of course, referrals.
Secret to having reached this milestone anniversary: Staying true to our mission. We feel very fortunate to be partners in this business. We work really well together because we have opposite skill sets and great respect for each other. We also are fortunate to have our son, Jeremy, in the business. Beyond that, we have a great team on the sales floor and in the tailor shop, many of whom have been with us for decades. Working with merchandise planners is essential to keep our inventory healthy. —KAG
50+ YEARS! J.PARKER LTD., SAVANNAH, GEORGIA
J. Parker Ltd. was founded in 1972 by Jimmy Parker, and is now run by his wife, Dale. There are five locations, four of which are in Savannah, Georgia. A fifth store is in Bluffton, South Carolina. What is most unique/special about your store? Our mission is to offer an exceptional shopping experience via a curated selection of products to meet our customers’ needs. We’re dedicated to fostering a welcoming environment and building lasting relationships within the communities we serve.
What’s selling best these days? Our bestsellers include Peter Millar, Johnnie-O, Brax, and Duck Head. Performance golf shirts and shorts are always our most popular items for spring. As we transition into fall, sportcoats and outerwear from Barbour have been popular, as well as Martin Dingman shoes and belts. Also, lightweight sweaters, quarter zips, and vests. Our top brands in terms of sales volume are Peter Millar, Johnnie-O, Duck Head, Jimmy Knows (our in-house label), Brax, and Martin Dingman. Our mix is 70 percent sportswear, 20 percent tailored clothing and 10 percent other.
Your online strategy: We’re actively focused on increasing the online segment of our business, but most of our business is done in our five brick-and-mortar locations. While we want to increase online sales, we’re fortunate to be in one of the top tourist districts so have not seen a decrease in walk-in traffic. Everyone wants to visit Savannah! Our Bluffton store is also in an area that’s always busy. Best/worst part of your job: I love visiting with our customers and being involved in the communities we serve. The worst part: there’s never enough time in the day!
Describe yourself as a manager: I look to my years as a coach when it comes to my management style. I lead in many of the same ways
I coached. I tend to treat my employees like players on a team. We all have a job to do, so it’s important to empower people while being positive and encouraging.
Smartest recent move: Expanding our brand and opening a standalone women’s store. We’ve had a selection of ladies clothing and accessories for years in our other locations, so it was time to fully commit and open a ladies’ store location. J. Parker Ladies officially opened in September 2023.
Changes ahead: We’ll soon be opening a new store next to our midtown Savannah location to include custom suiting, shirts, and alterations.
How you’re attracting young guys: Because we’ve been here over 50 years, generations of men shop with us. Our locations ensure lots of foot traffic from both locals and tourists. And, of course, we sell the most desired brands men are looking for, brands we regularly promote on social media. Consistently shopping trade shows and markets helps us keep up with trends that appeal to younger audiences. Reading issues of MR never hurts!
Your secret to reaching this milestone anniversary? Hard work, quality service, great brands, and the support of our community. We wouldn’t be where we are without our customers and of course none of this would be possible without our knowledgeable and talented staff, the best in the business. Another success secret: we work hard to maintain great relationships with our vendor partners. We have a Johnnie-O Shop and a Martin Dingman Lodge in all stores. Peter Millar, Brax, and Duck Head are all very supportive, making sure we have successful partnerships. These relationships mean a lot, and we appreciate everything they do for us! —KAG
50 YEARS! POCKETS MENSWEAR, DALLAS, TEXAS
Founded 1974 by David Smith, now run by Andy Weil and Doug Duckworth, 10 employees, 2 locations
Mission statement: We work at the same things many independent boutiques do to distinguish ourselves. We strive to achieve growth by seeking the best products, offering best-in-class service, and developing strong and enduring relationships with our clients. Best-selling items/brands: Our mix is half clothing, half sportswear. We anticipate another strong year in knitwear and outerwear. Both these classifications have been growing and we believe it will continue. Your online strategy: We currently do not sell online. How to do more business with less walk-in traffic? This can be challenging. One key is building great relationships with our clients, both in and out of the store. This leads to introductions and referrals. In addition, integration into the community is key. We work hard to be philanthropically active. Not only does this help some great causes, but it puts our name out there and builds community. Best/worst part of your job? It sounds very cliché, but the best part of the job is the interaction and relationships developed with customers. The worst part is that men’s retail is not getting any easier. There’s new competition daily with direct selling, online merchants, DTCs. It seems most of our vendors now want to be vertically integrated. Additionally, expenses are quickly escalating. Employee costs are much higher than a few years ago. Rent expense has grown quite a bit. I attribute some of this to the same vertically integrated vendors. There are more of them than ever and they’re willing and able to pay more in rent because their expense structure and cost of goods are lower. Andrew Carnegie talked about the cyclical nature of profits and prices, but he knew the importance of controlling costs.
Biggest mistake you’ve made and what you learned? Sadly, I make
mistakes all too often. But from them, I’ve learned to be solution-driven and to consider mistakes as learning opportunities.
How’s business now? How are you projecting 2025? What are you changing? Touch wood, our business is currently solid. We’ll enter 2025 cautiously optimistic with the intention to watch inventory and expenses closely and take our gambles when we feel right about them. As for changes, we hope to continue to grow our custom and made-to-order products. What are your top vendor partners doing right that you wish others would do? Be a true partner with your retailers. Vendor partnerships are critical to specialty retail. It requires give and take on both sides. When both sides are willing, both are rewarded with growth and profits. Your thoughts on your vendors selling direct to consumers? Do not love it, but it’s a reality. And what it does is force us to be sharper merchants. We have to work everyday to be better and remind the consumer why they should shop with us.
Greatest challenges you now face? There are two, both employee-related. It’s become increasingly challenging to find salespeople with the right work ethic willing to put in the effort to succeed without expecting the reward to precede the work. The second involves our tailor shop: tailors are a scarce commodity, especially truly talented ones.
How are you getting young guys into the store? Dallas is a growing city. For us, it’s important to attract customers of the right psychographic. If they’re young and like what we do in the shop, it is a win-win.
Your secret to having reached this milestone anniversary? This milestone is the result of the exceptional work of David Smith and Doug Duckworth. With their exceptional taste level and innate ability to connect with people, they built an institution in Dallas. —KAG
75 YEARS! MALOUF’S, LUBBOCK AND SOUTHLAKE, TEXAS
Founded 1949 by John B. Malouf, run by his son Michael Malouf.
Team: 10 full-time sales staff, 1 full-time tailor, 5 part-time tailors, 3 administrative staff Mission statement: “Our focus is on quality clothing, superior service, and personal attention. Our uniqueness is in our curation of brands and our legacy of 75 years.”
Quote: “Fashion isn’t just about trends or convenience; it’s about finding something that resonates personally, that makes customers feel their best.”
Menswear Mix: Tailored: 32%, Sportswear: 34%, Other: 34%
Top five men’s brands in sales volume: Canali, Corneliani, Eleventy, Boglioli, Eton, Brax Women’s: Eleventy, Finley, Herno, Roberto Coin, Lana
Store: Both locations, approx. 5,000 sq. ft.
Online strategy: We do no online business. We don’t see it as viable for our scale.
2025 Projections: We’re projecting 2025 flat, using less of our OTB to leave room for in-season fill in.
What your top vendor partners are doing right that you wish others would do: Bring extra product to trunk shows.
Your thoughts on your vendors selling direct to consumer? I think it hurts us more than helps. A customer discovered we carry a certain brand and proceeded to tell us what items he had bought elsewhere. The same brand built a store in our Southlake Center location last fall. We have not seen a positive bump in sales. What changes are you planning to grow future business? Negotiating a new lease in Southlake, which will require some remodeling. Greatest challenges you now face? The greatest challenge is fundamental: finding passionate sellers and good tailors.
How are you getting young guys into the store? Offering brands that appeal to them, such as Atelier Munro, Faherty, Eton, and Jack Victor in slim fits.
Your secret to having reached this milestone anniversary? Honestly, I owe it to my father, who set the standard and the foundation for the quality and service we are known for. It was his vision to offer our customers elevated fashion that inspired me and guides me to this day. Wish list: I would love to see Malouf’s reach the century mark, but that would have to come from a younger, passionate new owner. —KAG
10
YEARS! LETTER J CELEBRATING IN CHELSEA
Everyone thought Jason Somerfeld was crazy when he decided to open Letter J ten years ago in West Chelsea instead of bustling SoHo, but he saw something they didn’t. “The cool places are more of a destination, people love the discovery,” he says. “I wanted to open in an area that’s in a very artistic part of Manhattan that caters to that demographic…it felt young in energy.”
It turns out the bet paid off. The store has become a destination for international customers from London to Japan. Somerfeld describes it as “casually sophisticated” with pieces that can be dressed up or dressed down. Leaning into the destination store vibe, they don’t sell online and carry brands you won’t find in a ton of other retailers. Eleventy, Herno, Mason’s, and Chanel’s Orlebar Brown are current best-sellers.
Somerfeld credits much of the decade-long success to not only selling an eclectic mix of casual and more elevated clothing but styling customers and teaching them how to wear these pieces in different ways.
“We really pride ourselves on the instore experience.”
Although COVID-19 and the supply chain issues thereafter proved to be the most difficult time in the store’s tenure, they managed to bounce back. Although they have a social media presence, it’s really word-of-mouth that has been their biggest referral source. “Our business has been rewarded with the audience who shops here telling people such wonderful things about the store.”
Given the diversity of brands, they’ve been able to garner an audience that includes fathers and sons shopping together, 18-year-olds bringing their mom in for their opinion and financial professionals wanting to look stylish yet sophisticated. “We sell to a mindset, more than an age.”
As for the future, Somerfeld has his eyes on Miami Beach, where he sees a similar artsy, burgeoning area. He’s considering a hotel or an area with a similar aesthetic to the current store.
“I am very hands on and like to be in the store, so it’ll depend on if I want to divide myself in two.” —SL
60 YEARS! KEN’S MAN’S SHOP
Dallas, Texas, 3300 sq. ft.
Founded by Ken Helfman in 1964, now run by his son Kory
Current team: 5 haberdashers, 1 associate, 3 tailors
What is most unique/special about your store?
Service. Quality. Community. Our team of haberdashers works together to ensure the client is always our main focus. Customers are treated like family here, and they know that each of us will go the extra mile to support them. This is also how and why we partner with certain brands. The relationship must have perfect synergy, from wholesale table to retail floor.
Best-selling items/brands?
Spring 2024: Samuelsohn custom clothing, Eton dress shirts, Emanuel Berg dress polos. Fall 2024: Samuelsohn trunk show, Eton Dress Shirts, Marcello fusion shirts, Manto.
Top five brands in terms of sales volume: Samuelsohn, Eton, Jack Victor, Brax, Trands
Your online strategy?
We’ve maintained an up-to-date website since the mid ’90s. We show some product, but we don’t push online sales; less than 2 percent of our business comes from our website. Our relationships with our clients are all-important.
How to do more business with less walkin traffic?
Everyone here at the shop is onboard with growth in all our areas. Our wedding business has grown exponentially each season thanks to the grooms and groomsmen we’ve served who refer us to
others. Same with the formal business: we work with numerous charities around the metroplex. Our custom business is not just clothing-related: each department has a custom component, which gives us the opportunity to work with anyone who comes in. We’ve been networking since before Covid. These connections have created an amazing influx of new clients. Best/worst part of your job?
Best is working with my team, who are like my family. Also the customers: they too are an extension of our deep relationships. The hardest part is being so often away from my real family. I love what we’re about, but to make it all work, someone must put in the hours/days/Sundays.
Smartest recent move?
Rebranding the logo and opening up the windows were our best recent moves. Currently, we’re updating the shop: bigger dressing rooms, new front cash wrap, hospitality station, and more. We’re doing all this while staying open, which isn’t easy. But clients are commenting that they love the progress, (and that we really needed it!)
Always evolve, whether it’s new brands, or the actual shop. Clients love seeing positive changes, and that we’re investing in ourselves! What changes are you making in your product mix?
We’re concentrating more on clothing and
business attire, less on active and resort travel. What are your top vendor partners doing right that you wish others would do?
Allowing us to count and fill in inventory during the season. Too many brands are not housing the numbers they used to maintain before Covid. Understandable, but painful for the retailers.
Greatest challenges you now face?
Finding tailors! They’re not making any new ones on a master level. We need to grow an apprentice workshop for tailoring again. It’s a dying art.
How are you getting young guys into the store?
We’ve been working with SEO and social media for a while, and it does assist in bringing in new clients to the shop. Also, donating to their charities of choice has been a plus. What’s your secret to having reached this milestone anniversary?
My father, Ken, put his entire life into this business to make it succeed. I owe everything to him.
The clientele that he brought in and nurtured is still a vital part of this business. Those relationships and all the new ones have brought us to this moment. Also, the synergy within the industry, the camaraderie among merchants, wholesalers and brands, makes the wheel turn more easily. The key word: Perseverance. —KAG
55 YEARS! VALENTINO TAILORS
New Haven, CT. Founded 1969 by Antonio Valentino, managed today by Enzo Valentino and his wife Alicia.
Background: Antonio Valentino came from Italy after learning the trade in his small town in Italy from his father, Vincenzo. In 2006, Enzo Valentino joined, making it a third-generation family business. In 2022, Enzo and his wife Alicia moved the business to Grand Avenue in New Haven, giving them more space to grow their offerings and provide an elevated experience to customers.
Mission: We view ourselves as a tailor shop that offers men’s retail, while most of our competitors are retailers who offer alterations. This allows us to focus on fit. As a manager, I try to lead by example, making sure my employees are learning new skills and growing in their career paths.
Most popular brands: Trands (MTM clothing), Barocci, Bresciani, 7 Downie St, 34 Heritage, and Bespoke Factory for made to order Shoes.
On Partnerships: Our top vendor partners use ordering websites, allowing us to see inventory and confirm size and color availability. This also allows us to place orders and view shipping updates directly through their site. As a small business that does not carry much inventory, this instant access is critical. Greatest challenges: Hiring and training skilled personnel.
Selling high-end menswear and offering alteration services can attract retail professionals looking for something more than stocking shelves and working the cash register. But it also requires extra training to provide the knowledge, skills and level of service needed. Our staff goes through rigorous training on our alterations process to determine client needs and properly fit each customer. As our business grows, it’s critical for us to regularly update our internal processes and adapt to client feedback.
Success Secret: We treat our customers as spokespeople and billboards. We don’t let anyone leave our shop unhappy. Performing alterations is a unique process involving a great deal of communication and collaboration. There are no short cuts; each job demands patience and hard work. Providing alterations helps us to serve the customers who cannot shop off-the-rack, for whatever reason. Offering made-to-measure clothing and made-to-order shoes has helped create a niche for us. As a family business for 55 years, we take pride in everything we do since our name is on it. We treat our customers and staff like family and look forward to serving the generations to come! —KAG
Y
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W I T TH EAK pages of items in store 7 youwillwant to have online for and 2025
Michael by Macko
O O U
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U
MATCHES INCENSE
At the last round of home and gift shows it was evident that candles are more popular than ever. The category has grown to include room fragrance, diffusers, incense, and a surprisingly new classification, the matches and strikers used to light them. We especially love this hybrid product, incense matches that burn for 10 minutes, from Japanese brand Hibi.
(Please note, all prices are MSRP.)
Smith Shift
XL MAG
Sunglasses in Black and ChromaPop Black lens, $275
Corneliani Black Aged Calfskin Derby Shoes, $625
Filth Mart
Street Wise
T-Shirt, $58
Libra Classica Leather Bound, On the Road by Jack Kerouac, $70
David Yurman 22mm Memento
Mori Skull Ring in 18k Yellow Gold and Black Diamonds, $9,900
Balenciaga Skiwear Helmet, $1,090
Hibi Incense Matches, $48
DL1961 Vaughn Trucker Jacket in Obsidian, $498
King Kennedy King Duffle 3, $4,200
Trail Hankie Stargazing, Glow in the Dark Bandana, $15
Corneliani Black Nappa Leather Gloves, Lined in Cashmere, $375
34 Heritage Woven Elastic Belt in Black, $125
CANNABIS RELATED PRODUCTS
Cannabis is now legal in 24 states plus the District of Columbia. That number is only going to increase, so smart retailers will consider carrying products related to it’s usage. This Stash Set by actor Seth Rogen is from his new Houseplant brand.
J. Press Schoolboy Muffler in Light Blue/White, $98
Hiltl Thiago Cotton Stretch Pants in Blue. $196
Houseplant Stash Set by Seth in Powder Blue Glaze, $110
Trudon Versailles Candle, $140
Saxx Quick-Dry Mesh Boxer Brief in Slate Blue, $31
George Jensen Miniphant, Stainless Steel Bank in Blue, $99
Toyo ST-350 Steel Tool Box in Blue, $135
Dinosaur Designs Ball Bracelet in Sky, $120
Robert Talbott Keaton 100% Merino Wool Sweater in Sky Blue, $325
Bugatchi Chevron Quilted Puffer Vest in Teal, $250
Graphic Image
The Little Prince by Antoine De Saint-Exupéry in Blue Bonded Leather, $105
Meurisse Caramel Sea Salt Milk Chocolate Bar, $10.50
FOOD TRENDS
CANNED FISH
Canned fish is having a moment, and one of our favorite new brands in the category is Minnow. Created by a group of New York restaurant workers during COVID-19, the product combines simple and clean packaging with ingredients to match. Here, it’s just fish and olive oil for a modern take on a classic food item.
Minnow Canned Sardines, $12
Bugatchi Puffer Anorak Jacket with Detachable Hood in Dijon, $398
Far Afield
Good Dad Club T-Shirt
Embroidered T-Shirt in Honey Yellow, $67
Illesteva Trancoso Sunglasses in Honey, $260
Loewe Wasbi Candle, $245
Fredericks & Mae Extra Long Matchbook, $5
DelMonico Books/Hammer Museum Joan Didion: What She Means, $45
Dr. Hauschka Coverstick, $25
Craighill Granule Hourglass, $20
Peregrine Porter 100%
Merino Wool
Ribbed Scarf in Wheat, $68
Timberland Sailor Shoe, $132
It’s true, if you last long enough you will see everything come around again, the latest item to have a comeback is the humble boat shoe, a staple of the preppified 80s. The 21st Century versions offer more support on the inside, thanks to modern technology and colorful hues on the outside, like these beauties in golf green from Polo Ralph Lauren.
THE RETURN OF THE
BOAT SHOE
Cavallini & Co. Mushroom Mug, $18
Pigeon and Poodle Bath Canister, Made of Shell, $236
Obakki Large Pharmacy Vase in Lime Green, $93
J. Press
Green/Black Tartan Wool Trousers, $295
Miansa Sterling Silver Straw with Green Enamel, $100
Polo Ralph Lauren Leather Camp Moccasins in Golf Green, $345
Dries Van Noten Cannabis & Patchouli Eaux de Parfum, $315
Maldon Sea Salt Flakes, $11
Craighill Eyewear Chain, $25
Todd Snyder x Ettinger Camo Pill Case, $228
Rototo Reversible Brushed Mohair Sock in Green, $56
Outdoor Fellow Hudson Valley Scented Candle, $34
Sure, we all know the popular workwear names like Carhartt and Dickies. Still, other classic brands deserve a look, like CAT for shoes and sneakers and Wrangler, which also incorporates the current Western trend, giving customers a fashion two-fer.
WORKWEAR NOT THE USUAL SUSPECTS
Public
Organic
Far Afield Merino Wool Blend
Derby Watch Cap in Oatmeal, $52
Obakki Pouring Cup in Granite, $36
Goods
English Breakfast Tea Bags, $7
Steele Canvas Tall Tote Bag in Natural, $82
M@rket x Peanuts
Senior Flat Front Pants in Khaki, $140
Loewe Mushroom Room Spray, $135
Joe’s USA Camouflage Hoodie in Desert Camo, $43
Save the Duck Hendrix Jacket in Shore Beige, $398
Wrangler
Short Sleeve Rope Logo T-Shirt in Trench Coat Heather, $24
CAT Intruder Lite Sneaker in Birch, $85
Salt & Stone
Santal & Vetiver
Extra Strength
Aluminum-Free Deodorant, $20
Carlo Moretti Bora Drinking Glass in Red, $185
Original Madras Trading Company Patch the Madras Bear, $75
Ginora 1735 Diffuser Stone with Cuoio Rosso Essential Oil, $150
TSPTR x Peanuts
Sip N Surf Hooded Sweatshirt, $139
Brut Archives Flag Bag, Made from Vintage, Upcycled American Flags, $252
Craighill Chroma Scissors in Primary, $48
The Silver Spider Hot Dogs Dad Hat in Red, $32
Scosha Totem Rope Bracelet with Turquoise and Sterling Silver Charms, $295
Easymoc Hand-Sewn Blanket Slippers, $290
Red Wing Shoes Oil-Tanned Leather Care Kit, $47
Worn Over Time Vintage Sterling Silver St. Christopher Necklace, $460
RTH Large Brass Hook Tassel in Red, $200
LENSES COLORED
There’s life beyond the classic gray and green sunglass hues. Colored lenses allow you to view the world through not just rose-colored glasses, but violet, amber, orange, and turquoise as well. It’s a great reason for your customers to purchase a new pair of sunglasses.
Quince Tulum Polarized Acetate Sunglasses in Clear Spice with Deep Rose Lens, $50
Wrangler Sherpa Lined Corduroy Jacket in Wheat, $95
Paddywax Santa Fe Adobe Incense Holder with Palo Santo Incense, $26
Far West Big Sky Pajama Pant, $140
Frank Clegg Smooth Tumbled Leather Valet Tray in Cognac, $195
Flower Mountain Yamano 3 Sneakers in Green & Beige Suede, $213
34 Heritage Courage Straight Leg Pants in Toffee, $185
Shaman’s Market Chincheros Belt, $48
Sabre Dinnerwear Bistrot French Shiny Finish Flatware, $300
Watson-Guptill Large Hardcover Sketchbook in Chestnut Brown, $12
Paisley & Gray Barnsley Vegan Leather Collar Vest In Spiced Cognac, $125
MY LOVE AFFAIR WITH
By Joseph
SEVENTEEN. My junior prom with the girl of my dreams. A navy vested suit, French blue spread collar shirt, brown cap toe shoes. All from Rogers Peet on Beacon Hill. The only thing missing was the tie. I knew it had to be the right one, or all would be for naught.
So I summoned up my courage, walked over the Hill, down through the historic Boston Common, and headed for the venerable Louis of Boston. It must have been fate or the fashion gods, but there it was. In the far-left window, labeled The Berkeley Shop, was the perfect tie: a gold club tie with a navy and maroon crested helmet, distinctively appropriate for a Boston Brahmin, which, by the way, I certainly wasn’t. But I thought I could play the part. For that’s the beauty of clothes, isn’t it: to role play, to aspire to our better selves, to make lasting first impressions. I bought that tie for a whopping five dollars. I got the girl, was voted best dressed in my senior class, and landed a part-time job at Louis.
Much has happened from that day to this, for me personally and for the menswear industry. I spent the better part of my career designing my collections in the Golden Age of Menswear, the 1980s and ’90s, when tailoring was king and men dressed every day to impress and succeed. The shape of a shoulder, the nuanced palette of a printed tie, the soft, textured fabrics from the best mills in Italy: these created an exquisite portrait of that fashionable moment in time. Men were the canvas on which we painted.
But while the past holds wonderful fashion images, it’s not the formula for the future. We live in a very different world, and we dress for this new world order: more practical, more casual, and a hell of a lot more boring. As a true devotee of our industry, I study the trends, read my fashion publications, and watch men’s runway shows around the world. I’m tired of the hoodies and $5000 sweatshirts, the extreme swings from uber skinny muscle bulging suits to amorphous oversized shapes that have nothing in common with the beauty of the male torso. Unfortunately, these trends and runway presentations rarely resonate with consumers who simply want intelligent style information to make their buying decisions. Fashion is art, I get that, but menswear does not thrive in extremes: too big, too small, too short, too long. It does thrive, however, in the middle, where good taste and style will always rule the day.
As menswear searches for its new North Star, all hope is not lost. The salvation? The great men’s specialty retailers across this country who continue their love affair with menswear. Their dedication to providing impeccable customer service with innovative fashion choices in a personalized setting is their lifeblood and a welcome respite for the fashion-hungry. We’ve lost a great many of them, specialty stores that is, too numerous to mention. Yet as grass grows through the sidewalks, new men’s shops are sprouting up in small towns and cities across this country, names I might not recognize but with a distinctive style all their own. What is it, then, that separates the great stores from the
“THE BEAUTY OF CLOTHING: TO ROLE PLAY, TO ASPIRE…”
mediocre? It takes creative courage, imagination, storytelling, alluring displays, and an emphasis on special product rather than a name on a label. There’s a winning formula here: intellect and aesthetics equal success.
Over the years, I’d often tell my design teams, “Show me something I don’t know.” That should be the mantra for great men’s specialty stores today: show your customers (with conviction) something they don’t know, new ways of dressing in appropriate attire for the here and now. The legendary retailer Murray Pearlstein once taught me this: You can’t be all things to all people, so take a stand on what you believe in.
As for me, I’m starting my next chapter by creating a whole new concept that I humbly believe is the beginning of an exciting menswear evolution. I don’t have all the pieces yet, but I will soon. And I’ll keep on climbing the hills and looking into windows until I’m sure I’ve got it right.
Southern Clothing Market
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