MR Magazine November 2023

NOVEMBER 2023 · ISSUE NO. 5 · VOL. 33

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BRIGHT LIGHTS, BIG CITY WHERE ARE THEY NOW?

UNDER THE INFLUENCE TAILORED CLOTHING PAPER CHASE RETAIL RECAP WHERE ARE WE? FOLLOW ME ZACH WEISS’S NEW YORK

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Curating the best brands in the best place.

DALLASMARKETCENTER.COM / @DALLASMARKET

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Dallas Men’s Show The Fastest Growing Men’s Trade Event in the U.S. Bigger, better, convenient, inspiring.

Join us at the Dallas Men’s Show, featuring a growing collection of top brands across multiple lifestyle categories.

JANUARY 27 - 29, 2024

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CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS 8 Editor’s Letter Trading up

10 Fashion Futures What's next?

14 Contributors In this issue

16 Tailored Clothing Chasing gains

20 Sportswear Sustaining grace

28 Fashion Zach Attack

36 Personality Zach Weiss's world

42 Gift Guide A list to check twice

FEATURES 22 Retail recap What's working? (What's not!?)

26 Guest Edit: Brandice Daniel Just imagine

38 Social studies Keeping up with social media On the cover: Zach Weiss wears a tuxedo, shirt and tie all by Brioni; watch Analog Shift Certina.

Shot on location at The Paris Theater. Above, Suit, shirt, tie and pocket square all by Brunello Cucinelli; shoes by Blackstock & Weber; socks by Corgi; sunglasses by Ray-Ban; watch by Analog Shift IWC. Shot on location at Bergdorf Goodman Men’s Store. Photography by Krista Schlueter.

Styling by Michael Macko. Grooming by Scott McMahan, Honey Artists.

40 Doubles turn Menswear's fashionable couples

48 Last Look From flannel to formal

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MR NOVEMBER 2023

THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE

EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN KAREN.ALBERG@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM FASHION & CONTENT EDITOR JOHN RUSSEL JONES JOHN.JONES@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM CONTRIBUTING EDITOR MICHAEL MACKO MICHAEL.MACKO@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM CONTRIBUTING WRITERS RYAN MCINTURF, BRANDICE DANIEL ART DIRECTOR KARA KABLACK, KARA.KABLACK@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM CONTRIBUTING CREATIVE DIRECTORS NANCY CAMPBELL, TREVETT MCCANDLISS MCANDCSTUDIO@GMAIL.COM

ADVERTISING GROUP PUBLISHER LIZETTE CHIN LIZETTE.CHIN@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER CHARLES GARONE CHARLES.GARONE@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM

PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGERS LAURIE GUPTILL, FERN MESHULAM, KATHY WENZLER MARKETING & PRODUCTION SPECIALIST CATHERINE ROSARIO OFFICE MANAGER PENNY BOAG ACCOUNTING KASIE CARLETON, URSZULA JANECZKO, BRUCE LIBERMAN

ADVISORY BOARD TINA ANIVERSARIO NORDSTROM JUSTIN BERKOWITZ BLOOMINGDALE’S SAM GLASER STITCHED KARL-EDWIN GUERRE NO CHASER/GUERRISMS KATIE LIU & MICHAEL KREIMAN BLACK DOG 8 SHOWROOM ALAN LEINEN HALLS STEVE PRUITT BLACKS RETAIL

WAINSCOT MEDIA CHAIRMAN CARROLL V. DOWDEN PRESIDENT & CEO MARK DOWDEN CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER/VICE PRESIDENT STEVEN RESNICK SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS LIZETTE CHIN, RITA GUARNA VICE PRESIDENTS NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY,

NOELLE HEFFERNAN, MARIA REGAN

MR (ISSN 1049-6726, USPS 7885) IS PUBLISHED FIVE TIMES A YEAR (JANUARY, FEBRUARY, JULY, AUGUST, NOVEMBER) MR MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT MAHWAH, NJ. AND AT ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: TO CHANGE AN ADDRESS OR REQUEST A SUBSCRIPTION, WRITE TO SUBSCRIPTIONS, MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656; TELEPHONE: 201-573-5541. ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: CONTACT LIZETTE CHIN AT 201.571.2077 OR LIZETTE.CHIN@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM. COPYRIGHT © 2023 BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 33, ISSUE 5.

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FALL 2023 • COPPLEY.COM

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EDITOR’S LETTER

BUSINESS, AND A THANKSGIVING PRAYER BEEN SLEEPING with Charlie Benton’s second edition of Selling on Main Street (subhead: What to Say and Do to Close More Sales) on my nightstand for quite some time; recently, I picked it up and actually read it. For those of you who live on the retail selling floor, it’s doubtful I’m presenting you with new information.

But in our extant era of declining unit sales, I found one particular anecdote to be a great example of how to trade up customers who had no intention of spending luxury prices. (If you’re fortunate enough to have a client base of luxury customers, read no further!)

In the book, Benton shares a personal experience. “A few years ago, I decided I’d like to have a really nice custom suit made, so I talked to Perry Lancaster, co-owner of Britton’s Fine Clothing in Columbia S.C. Perry told me that I could get my suit for $800. He did a great job for me. Over the next few weeks, I went in for three fittings, and then the day arrived for me to select the material. He let me hold the first swatch and told me the benefits of choosing this material. I absolutely loved the look and feel of this cloth. He then told me that the price would be $1,300. Wait a minute! I’d agreed to buy a suit that cost $800. This is more than 50 percent higher. I can’t afford that much!

“Of course, being from the South, I didn’t say these things, I just thought them. I did, however, politely question

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him about the $800 price tag. He said that yes, there is of course an $800 option and he showed me that swatch.

It was nice and it was beautiful but by now, I’d fallen in love with the Cadillac.

I decided to purchase the nicer suit.

I’d walked into Britton’s with an $800 budget and increased it by $500 in an instant! Every time I wear that suit, I’m glad that Perry showed me something nicer than I could afford.”

According to merchants and manufacturers queried for this issue of MR, clothing business, though not quite at last year’s record-breaking levels, has held up well in 2023. AURs are up, soft sport coats are moving fast (fancies outselling basics, seasonal colors strong), tailored clothing remains a top category once again this year.

(Thank you, Senator Schumer, for reinstating a Senate dress code!)

How to plan business for an election year with political chaos, nuclear threats, high inflation, and the horrific war in the Mideast? Cautiously, according to the experts. Buy less upfront and focus on turn. Better to run out mid-season than deal with excessive markdowns end-season. As Dana Swindler at MP3 Minneapolis notes in our retail overview, “I’d rather lose a sale than have to play Pac-Man with way too much inventory.”

A final caveat: although most retailers are either ignoring, or just dabbling in, forward fashion, I believe that dabbling gets lost on the selling floor. Make

strong statements with one or two new looks you believe in: DB suits, pleated trousers, statement sweaters, widelegged jeans. Then mark down quickly if your customers aren’t reacting. As retail consultant Steve Pruitt often reminds us, “How much of a gain you’ll see will be determined by your ability to excite customers with new and unique fashion merchandise.”

We hope you enjoy this issue of MR featuring lots of fashion inspiration, gift ideas, social media insights, and

“BUY LESS UPFRONT AND FOCUS ON TURN.” business analysis. As Thanksgiving approaches, let us be thankful that we live in a free democratic society, as dysfunctional as it can sometimes appear. Let us continue to work toward a world at peace, as idealistic and near impossible as this goal might seem. And let our leaders be driven by compassion and strong moral values, so that the intrinsic good in humanity overpowers the evil that all too often rears its ugly head.

Wishing all our MR readers a joyful, thoughtful, and meaningful Thanksgiving.

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FORECAST

FASHION FUTURES HEADED TO BOOT CAMP

Standing toe-to-toe with sneakerheads in their passion for product, boot enthusiasts share an obsession for seeking out exceptional materials and superlative craftsmanship. Like aficionados of coffee or fine wine, this group is dedicated to seeking out both the artisanal and the esoteric. On two crisp fall days at Brooklyn, New York’s Industry City complex, a gathering of fine footwear makers and their fans came together for Stitchdown’s Boot Camp, a celebration of all things bootiful. Stitchdown is “an independently owned, passion-driven media company devoted to cultivating community via a shared love of fantastic leather footwear.” Ben Robinson, founder and editor-in-chief of the Stitchdown website, leads the group.

Although consumer-facing, Boot Camp itself was set up much like a trade show, including setups from the iconic Horween leather company, Detroit’s College for Creative Studies (with a shoe making program), and around 15 of the very best boot- and shoemakers from the United States, Canada, Spain, Italy, the U.K., Guatemala, and more. Besides the opportunity to meet the makers and try on boots you might otherwise only see online, there were also boot making demonstrations and a sample sale. Two panel discussions and an after-party at Big Alice Brewery rounded out the days. For more information about Stitchdown’s next events, see stitchdown.com or follow @stitchdownbootcamp on Instagram.

—JRJ Boot Camp panelists: L to R, Ben Robinson, Wyatt Gilmore of Grant Stone, Connor Wilson of Thursday Boot Company, and Luke Kolbie of Russell Moccasin.

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BEAD READ: AUTHENTIC, SUSTAINABLE, STYLISH

Stephen Sotnick has long been a celebrated artist and menswear designer. His brand new venture, a collaboration with menswear veteran David Rush, is much more than fabulous jewelry. Says Sotnick, “The look is contemporary, but the beads are not. They’re old trade beads: Ghanaian, Ethiopian, Yemeni, Cameroonian, Venetian, Bohemian, French, Moroccan, and Indian. Some of the Bohemian beads come from companies more than 500 years old in what is now the Czech Republic. The American Indians used them….”

These authentic trade beads can be 50 to 5,000 years old. The more modern beads, 50 to 100 years old, are universally traded for their beauty. In both categories, each necklace/bracelet is distinctive and gender-neutral, adding much personality to the elevated casual wardrobes now dominating the fashion scene.

Suggested retails on finished pieces run about $150 to $250 for limited edition necklaces and $65 to $95 for the bracelets. For more information, Drush0117@gmail.com. —KAG

PAOLO MARTORANO: A RISING STAR AT 31

“I’ve never met anyone at any age with Paolo’s knowledge of fine tailoring,” says clothing aficionado Tom Mastronardi about the young man to whom he’s just introduced me. We’re in Paolo’s intimate 57th Street NYC studio, surrounded by an assortment of the finest fabrics in the world. Paolo’s parents are both therapists, but his grandparents were tailors so it’s safe to say that Bespoke clothing is in his DNA. His career began interning with Alan Flusser, where he learned the clothing business stitch by stitch (and devoured cover to cover Flusser’s Dressing the Man). He then put his skills to work at Paul Stuart and Dunhill. Six years ago, at age 25, he dared to venture out on his own.

Paolo describes his take on bespoke as “New York Refined.” This involves a very soft shoulder that he developed about a year ago, still padded but razor-thin—about an eighth of an inch. He eschews the noshoulder look, insisting that bespoke clothing needs structure, as do most men. He champions a sloped shoulder and natural fibers, showing me a range of garments in luxury fabrics from a super soft 16-ounce lambswool to a seven-ounce Loro Piana silk/wool denim. “Young customers choosing bespoke are looking for conservative elegance,” he explains. “Most go very traditional: three-button or double-breasted, side vents, braces, pleated trousers. A classic navy blazer is often the first item I make for them.”

His customers range in age from 30s to 80s (not many 20-somethings can afford the $7,500 opening price tag). Most discover him via personal referrals or social media and have fully vetted him before contact.

(Renowned actor George Hamilton reached out to him on Instagram.) “Customers come for the experience of working with Paolo,” affirms marketing guru Mastronardi. “In addition to his technical expertise and taste level, he’s one of the nicest guys in the business.”

While most transactions start in his studio, Paolo often meets with customers where they live: Palm Beach, Beverly Hills, Houston, Boston. “I never ship the first try-on: I deliver it in person so I can better get to know the client. Once that happens, the process is pure magic.” —KAG

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FORECAST

TIE DYE FANTASIES

When your sales floors start looking a bit dark and dreary post-holiday season, brighten them up with a basket or two of colorful, genderneutral, hand-dyed cotton socks. Machine-washable (with similar colors, turned inside out), these made-in-America impulse items ($28 suggested retail) created by By My Grace are sure to ring registers just when you need it most. These socks are designed to match back to the latest sneakers, slides, and loafers of the season, available in a large array of colors.

Fashion and fitness exec Ali Grace Kolbe (with a little help from her mom, Grace Kolbe) started the brand in 2019 by tie-dying socks in the basement of her East Village apartment. She now works with master dyers to create high fashion, elevated socks and athleisure wear.

Retailers including SoulCycle, Blink Fitness, Free People and better specialty boutiques have picked up on By My Grace, a female founded brand out of New York City. Check it all out at @by.my.grace and bymygrace.com —KAG

FOR MEN NOT AFRAID TO COMMIT

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Recently invited to attend a pop-up for Banter, a division of Piercing Pagoda, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that men are bringing girlfriends, daughters, partners, and bffs to have 14K gold chains permanently sealed around their wrists.

This Banter pop-up was held in a bright orange, vintage VW bug wagon that would look more at home parked outside Coachella than across from the Soho Grand on West Broadway. The van and canopy were decked out with the faux grass, vines, and flowers currently covering the entrances of all the trendy downtown stores. Water and treats were offered to those waiting, giving a cool picnic vibe.

While waiting my turn, I chatted with Nicole Weber, district manager of Banter Dallas, who flew up to oversee this event. She told me that more men, both single and in couples, are getting matching permanent jewelry. Couples are treating it as the new friendship ring, solidifying a budding relationship.

I have to admit when imaging a bracelet being welded to me, the first image that came to my mind was Jennifer Beals from Flashdance, acetylene torch in one hand, gold bar in the other, melting a teeny-tiny drop of gold onto the chain on my wrist. The reality is that it’s all done with an electric charge to the gold, which creates a tiny, but very bright spark that can only be viewed with goggles or through a shield.

The whole experience is fun, made even more enjoyable by the Banter team, on hand to answer any questions. While they currently offer only bracelets and anklets, ($80-$160 retail), they’re working on a technique to safely weld necklaces. If your chain accidentally breaks, Banter will weld it back for a nominal fee. Should the relationship falter, they’re happy to add a clasp.

For a great event to host at your store, go to banter.com/contact-banter. —MM

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Discover Amphibiox™: the waterproof shoe that allows your feet to breathe while keeping them dry.

Find out more on geox.com and on nordstrom.com

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CONTRIBUTORS

KRISTA SCHLUETER @kristaschlueter

SCOTT MCMAHAN @scottmcmahangrooming

RYAN MCINTURF @ryansrantsandraves

BRANDICE DANIEL @brandicedaniel

Krista Schlueter is a photographer and native New Yorker who has been documenting the New York scene for over a decade. Her work ranges from social scenes, subcultures, underground worlds, politics and entertainment, focusing on the personalities and interests that make up American culture. Her work has appeared in: The New York Times, T Magazine, The New Yorker, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Time, GQ, Rolling Stone, Esquire, Entertainment Weekly, Billboard, WWD, Men’s Health, Glamour, Complex, Vulture, New York Magazine, Highsnobiety, Paper, Time Out New York, Bon Appétit, and more.

When asked what was the best part about photographing Zach Weiss, her answer was, “Just being in his presence. I first met Zach on a shoot and he gave off this energy that I was immediately drawn to. We became not only friends, but collaborators on many projects.

He has a modern take on the classic New York style and aesthetic, which makes him not only quintessentially Zach, but quintessentially New York.”

Groomer Scott McMahan grew up on a cattle farm in west Tennessee, but as soon as possible took off for the bright lights of New York City with big dreams of working in fashion and entertainment.

Noticing a need for dedicated men’s groomers, he knew he had found his calling. Twentyfive years later, he has mastered the art of minimal makeup to maximum effect and believes that every look starts simply with perfecting the client’s skin.

Some of his previous clients include the Jonas Brothers, Jeff Goldblum, Josh Brolin, Liev Schreiber, Daniel Craig, Evan Mock, Luke Kirby, Glenn Powell, and Lil Yachty.

When asked what he liked most about grooming cover subject Zach Weiss, McMahan answered, “I really love when clients are willing to go outside their comfort zone, and Zach did just that. He was very open and game to embrace his natural curls. It might not be his signature hairstyle, but it looks very fresh and unfussy.”

Ryan McInturf is an attaché of fashion and design for the government of Québec, and serves as the liaison for Québec brands, retailers, licensees, licensors, and manufacturers to the broader fashion industry. His podcast (Ryan’s Rants & Raves on Spotify), on which he has interviewed leadership at Century 21, Moose Knuckles, ASOS, The Webster, and more, is a prime example of his success.

When asked for his personal take on using social media for fashion decisions, he said, “Personally, social media doesn’t influence my consumption!

However, I do recognize the value of a strong social media following for a brand. At my job, I often need to convince retailers to meet with brands, and social media is a great selling tool for any brand looking to be picked up by a new retailer. It goes beyond the lookbook and provides a glimpse at the followers and consumers who might potentially purchase the line elsewhere. So, personally, social media is a habit that I choose to avoid, but professionally it is a tool to promote the goals of the Québec fashion entities I represent.”

Brandice Daniel is the founder and CEO of Harlem’s Fashion Row (HFR), an agency creating a bridge between brands and designers of color in fashion through brand strategy, collaborations, new media, experiential marketing, recruiting, and pipeline programs. Daniels was MR’s Vanguard Award honoree for 2023. In 2020, HFR partnered with the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and, in 2022, forged an alliance with LVMH North America. A native of Memphis, Tenn., Daniel now lives in Brooklyn, N.Y., with her husband and daughter.

As Daniels says on HFR’s website, “Every day, I’m speaking to designers and listening to what they need. HFR is a work in progress. We don’t have all of the answers, but we are constantly in search of solutions.

We will be satisfied when designers of color can create profitable businesses by doing what they love, and when we’ve convinced you to shop from these designers. We’ve created a system that allows access to any talented designer of color to thrive despite their socioeconomic status. We’re a work in progress.

You’re welcome to come along for this incredible ride!”

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ANNOUNCING F/W 24 NEW YORK MEN’S MARKET WEEK

JANUARY 21-27, 2024

FOR INDIVIDUAL SHOWROOM DATES VISIT:

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TA I L O R E D C L O T H I N G

Peerless

Tailored Clothing:

BE PREPARED TO CHASE! WITH AVERAGE RETAILS HOLDING AT LEVELS OVER HISTORICAL AVERAGES, TAILORED CLOTHING EXECS ARE CAUTIOUSLY OPTIMISTIC. MOST HOPE RETAILERS WILL KEEP INVENTORIES IN CHECK TO MAINTAIN HEALTHY AURS; OTHERS WORRY THAT STORES WILL RUN SHORT ON FASHION.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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DAN ORWIG, PRESIDENT, PEERLESS

How’s tailored clothing business at retail?

Although sales are flattening to a more reasonable level compared to 2022 (a record-breaking year), tailored clothing remains on the better side of high-performing categories at retail. Consumers continue to show how savvy they can be in their purchasing ways. With certain headwinds in front of us, be it geo-political, government shutdowns, inflation, student loans… there’s always something! As an industry, we continue to push through obstacles one step at a time.

What are higher performing stores doing right?

Our retail partners who have invested in the dress-up category, who offer beautiful, creative and innovative assortments, are doing quite well and will continue to perform through any headwinds. We want to help our retail partners show the consumer value, whether that’s with the latest fashion trend, the highest quality fabrics or simply the best fitting garments.

You can see this on the floors today: early fall assortments look amazing!

As the largest tailored clothing maker in North America, how is Peerless approaching the business today?

With cautious optimism. On core product, we will always have a robust inventory level. But on fashion, we’d rather sell out early than own too much inventory. Sell out and chase. We want to support our retail partners and their objectives of increased turn and higher AUR’s.

We want the customer to keep seeing newness and wanting more. It’s by no means easy out there, considering the past 18 months have been so strong. We need to stay close to the business and monitor it by buying smart and managing inventory.

Can you provide some fashion specifics?

We’re seeing nice activity in sport coats: softer shoulder, half lined, open patch pockets.

Consumers are getting very comfortable with this look. Also performing well: rich colors including burgundies and greens.

In suits, we believe the market is staying dressy. We love double breasted styles, and initial reads have been good, from a relaxed DB sport coat to a DB pinstriped suit. As designers and merchants, we talk a lot about the looser models appearing on designer runways. We see it in several luxury brands (even more in women’s) and we’re loosening up a bit for fall 2024. Nothing too extreme but easing the thigh and calf so the pant shows more drape and flow. In some of our products, we’re also easing out the jackets.

How’s the supply chain situation?

Looking ahead, it seems more manageable— both the textile and factory components.

Container costs are back to reasonable levels and availability.

What is your key current goal?

To continue working closely with all our retail partners to ensure they have the appropriate inventory to maximize business while keeping the AUR’s high and the newness flowing.

MARK SPERO, VP, LUBIAM USA

How’s recent tailored business in the stores?

Last year was record-breaking and 2023 business was strong until April. Going into fall ’23, our better stores are off to a nice start!

Soft jackets in jersey knits, garment dyed in fun colors (autumn greens, pumpkin), both solids and patterns. More than ever these days, it’s becoming a fashion business. Customers already have the basics; stores willing to take more risks are doing the best.

Are you worried about the economy? How long can a positive trend continue?

I think better specialty stores will continue to thrive. It’s not just about the economy: these stores have really stepped up their assortments, their presentation, trunk shows, marketing, and service, and they’re moving away from sales. Our current retails average $895-$995 for LBM, $1095-$1295 for Luigi Bianchi, value pricepoints for Italian goods.

Can you comment on the current supply chain situation?

Fall ’23 deliveries were much better: we were 85 percent delivered by end-September. Spring ’24 deliveries should be even better: we increased prebuys of fabrics by 30-40 percent.

How are you positioned for fall ’24?

We’re 65% ready and will be set to show end November/December. Although delivery

challenges are greatly mitigated, there are still challenges with some of the mills. Merchants will get better delivery by booking early.

As for fashion direction, we’ll be showing more jersey knits and sweater jackets. Although we’re showing several new models, we expect the best to be a low two-button with patch pockets. The fall ’24 color palette leans toward plums and olives.

About 85 percent of our fabrics are exclusives.

Are you showing any of the oversized styles shown on runways?

Everyone’s showing it but our retail accounts are not quite there yet. It took so long for customers to accept a slimmer fit; it will take just as long for loose fits to become the norm.

JACK BANAFSHEHA, ZANETTI

How’s recent business?

Early fall has been somewhat soft compared to last year. Our soft jackets from the ZNT18 and the Zanetti collections have been the best sellers. Suiting sales are flat. For 2024, we’re introducing more assortment in our jacketing lines across all three (ZNT18, Blue and Black) of our collections.

Interestingly, our clients outside the U.S. seem to be doing a bit better than our clients in the U.S. I attribute that to them carrying lighter inventories.

Can you comment on the supply change situation?

It’s actually quite fluid. We’re getting our shipments pretty much on schedule without any issues (so far) compared to last year.

Is it good that retailers are planning to move forward with less inventory and more in-season reorders?

In my opinion, this will not be ideal for their

Lubiam USA

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TA I L O R E D C L O T H I N G Jack Victor USA Zanetti

suppliers: not just the fabrics but also our canvas chest pieces, linings, buttons, pocketing, etc.

Are your clients being more cautious with inventory levels?

Yes, and we’ve planned accordingly. Not only are our basic in-stock items (solid suits, blazers, eveningwear, trousers) in good stock positions, but we also cut more units in our seasonal fashion stock to be ready for the demand that we anticipate.

TONY MADDOX, PRESIDENT OF SALES, COPPLEY USA

customers since very few if any companies will have fashion items available for reorder. Basics, however, will be abundant.

What do you see as your greatest challenges and opportunities?

I see client expansion as our main goal and growth opportunity. The challenge for everyone is consumer spending. It seems that now more than ever, consumers are being cautious about how much they spend on clothing. But we’ve been through these periods in the past. While this one is a bit different, it too will pass.

NELSON SURIEL, PRESIDENT, JACK VICTOR USA

How is business?

I recently returned from a trip down south to visit with some of our accounts. I got to see about a dozen stores and just about every one of them is off to a good fall season. This is very encouraging, considering that when I landed in Houston, it was 99 degrees. Despite the warm early fall weather, consumers are coming out to buy new

fall merchandise. I love to visit our accounts since I get to spend time with not just the store owners but just as importantly the sellers on the floor.

In this way, I gather information on what trends they’re seeing and what’s selling well across all classifications.

Can you be fashion-specific on what’s selling in tailored clothing?

Our Comfort Wear collection continues to be our shining star! This is our Jack Victor collection of jersey and knitted fabrics from which we’re able to make soft and comfortable tailored clothing.

While the garments are definitely a softer construction, we’re able to make them in a tailored way. The shoulders are clean and the chest doesn’t collapse like you typically see in soft garments.

And of course, the fabrics stretch and move with the body.

How’s would you describe the current supply chain situation?

We see things as back to normal. We’re only as good as our suppliers. We’re fortunate that most of the components we use come from premier Italian

How’s business?

Our business is 45 percent off-the-rack and 55 percent custom. We’ve had very strong early fall business in off-the-rack: we delivered a lot of product early (45 percent before summer shutdowns) and we’re up in both units and dollars. For the month of October, we had 49 scheduled trunk shows.

What are your early fall best sellers?

A classic fit drop six is still our number one selling garment. We’ve been selling 35 percent pleated pants for a long time. In custom, we’re getting some requests for wider legs.

In off-the-rack, we’ve added more soft, unstructured cardigans and other models like bombers. The stores that do best are carefully planning their assortments, marketing, and events.

How are you priced these days? Are price increases a deterrent?

We’re at $1195 retail for an off-the-rack suit and $1095 for a sportcoat. Yes this is a slight increase but an expected one, with increased costs on fabrics, threads, zippers (now three times what they were…) Current prices are accepted by retailers because they’re able to elevate their offerings.

Are you concerned that retailers plan to work with less upfront inventory?

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DISCOVER MORE AT HARTSCHAFFNERMARX.COM

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TA I L O R E D C L O T H I N G

Coppley USA

No. Our business model is structured with built-in replenishment options. We have two offthe-rack replenishment programs: seasonal and perennial. Retailers can select from 21 jackets and 10 suits delivered in 15-18 working days. They can reorder something that’s running low or choose something totally new.

Where will future growth come from?

From finding ways to offer more casual pieces in both off-the-rack and custom. And from offering custom in women’s, a project in the works.

SPIRO ARVANITAKIS, BYRON

How’s recent business?

Despite most stores being up against crazy good numbers from last year, we’ve been blessed with continued growth. Our business is far above pre-

Bryon

pandemic levels. Most of the action is in fancy sport coats and elegant suits, primarily worn to social occasions. The wedding business has certainly not slowed down!

Overall, it seems that financial district business dressing has not kicked in yet. I take this as an exciting opportunity for significant growth once there’s a bigger return to the office. I truly believe this will be our next wave to ride. As for supply chain issues, we’re actively increasing our production in North America with garments made in Mexico.

Can you describe Byron’s unique business model?

Our business model is entirely based on inseason stock orders. We do not ask for any upfront orders. Our stores buy only what they need when they need it.

We’ve recently increased our stock levels in short sizes and large sizes. For many stores today, a short size is not a fringe size.

We stock around 70,000 suits and sport coats in 26 sizes and several models. I encourage our stores to “buy less and sell more.” Our best account currently hangs half the number of sleeves but through constant reorders, he now sells more than ever. His annual retail sales are more than one million dollars of Byron alone, while maintaining a margin of over 65 percent.

So it’s possible: More sales with less inventory means more profit!

that we have adapted to longer lead times and limited resources. It all depends on the yarns; most mills have capacity to manufacture fabric.

To what extent will retailers be able to get mid-season reorders?

We’re doing some opportunistic cuttings inseason, allowing retailers an opportunity to buy more. This helps maintain factory operations during slower periods and provides more product offerings for retailers with limited investment on their part.

Samuelsohn

ALIYA MOREHEAD, DESIGNER, SAMUELSOHN

How has early fall clothing business been in the stores?

Tailored jackets with softer construction reign supreme. Color continues strong, providing customers with compelling reasons to buy. Even with softer construction, the jackets have a dressier appearance, featuring flap pockets instead of patch.

Although there’s been some price resistance to fashion suits, we believe this category will soon return to more in-season selling.

What differentiates those stores doing well from the others?

Doing best are retailers who are resourceful and flexible, who understand that inventory does not have to be physically in the store to be sold. Stores that provide customers with the option to purchase off-the-rack, made to measure, and in-stock items. Stores that present customers with a comprehensive ‘return to the office’ look, even mixing brands.

How do you see the current supply chain situation?

The supply chain is getting better in the sense

What do you consider your greatest challenges and opportunities?

Our greatest challenge is to manage risk in the market right now. We have an opportunity to expand in categories closest to our core, such as overcoats and trousers. But our biggest opportunity is that we’re in an era where customers prioritize quality over quantity, and that’s what we stand for as a brand.

The expression, fit, and craftmanship of our garments cannot be duplicated.

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EXPLORE THE FULL STORY AT TALLIA.COM

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S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

Substance or

STORYTELLING? LIKE MOST WRITERS these days, I’ve taken to experimenting with ChatGPT to see if and how it can help me do my job. So far, I haven’t been terribly impressed (or threatened), but when I asked it to put together a “story” about sustainability and menswear retailers, it did come up with this little tale entitled “The Green Thread” (edited quite a bit for space).

There once was a menswear boutique named “EcoStyle.” Its founder, Samuel, was a visionary with a deep commitment to sustainability. Samuel had witnessed the detrimental effects of fast fashion, so he created a menswear brand that not only offered impeccable style, but also championed sustainability. From the ecofriendly materials sourced for the clothing to the energy-efficient lighting that illuminated the store, Samuel spared no effort.

Word of the store spread, attracting customers who sought not only quality attire but also a meaningful shopping experience. Soon, the boutique became a hub for those who understood the importance of conscious consumption.

Over time, EcoStyle’s success rippled through the industry. Other retailers took notice, realizing that sustainability was not just a passing trend, but an imperative for the future. They began to reevaluate their own practices, and, in time, a movement emerged. Stores around the world started incorporating sustainable practices into

their businesses. Together, they formed an alliance committed to reducing the fashion industry’s environmental footprint.

The impact was profound. Landfills saw a decrease in textile waste, and manufacturers began to invest in renewable energy sources. As consumer awareness grew, so did demand for sustainable menswear, prompting even more retailers to join the cause. Sustainability became the new standard, and menswear retailers realized that it was not only the right thing to do for the planet, but also a smart business move. Sam’s store continued to flourish, serving as a beacon of inspiration for those who believed in the power of conscious fashion. And so, the green thread woven by Samuel and his fellow retailers continued to strengthen, leaving an indelible mark on the world of menswear and, ultimately, the planet itself.

If only it were true! But as a fan of doing what we can to save the planet, I hope that we’ll all engage in some truthful “green” storytelling.

Certainly, having a story to tell makes it easier to talk about product and get customers excited. Maybe it’s the fact that it’s Made in USA or Made in Italy.

Maybe the company is 100 years old or has dressed presidents. And increasingly, the fact that a brand incorporates sustainable practices helps make the sale (as long as it doesn’t add too much to the cost of the goods!)

Of course, the term “sustainability”

PHOTO: BRYAN DERBALLA COURTESY OF FAIR HARBOR

HOW CREDIBLE ARE BRAND CLAIMS OF SUSTAINABILITY? BY JOHN RUSSEL JONES

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PHOTO: STEFANO GALLUZI COURTESY OF BUGATCHI PHOTO: BRYAN DERBALLA COURTESY OF FAIR HARBOR

casts a rather wide net, with practices ranging from making sure the trucks that deliver products are electric to ensuring that factory employees are being treated well; from using fiber and fabric dyes that don’t pollute the water supply to being sure that the sheep are rocked to sleep at night. For now, we must approach the whole business with a skeptic’s eye until our friends on the manufacturing side get things sorted out with labeling, blockchain, artificial intelligence and more.

Unfortunately, there’s also a lot of “greenwashing” out there: a study done this past year found that 60 percent of clothing brands’ claims are intended to convince consumers that these brands are more ecofriendly than they actually are. Fortunately, savvy men’s sportswear makers are on top of it.

Notes Cecile Revah at Bugatchi, “Innovations continue to emerge in fabric and fiber technology, including aesthetics, performance, and functionality to create textiles that have a

reduced environmental impact. The key is to stay attuned and informed. We’re already using sustainable materials in our shirting collections such as Ecovero fibers, organic cotton, hemp, and bamboo as well as a plant-based fill for our outerwear. Our new packaging is made from fully recycled materials.”

At Raffi, Kareen Shaya-Safier points out that “It’s important to incorporate sustainable practices on the production and manufacturing side, but to do it in a way that’s beneficial both for the company and for the customer.” She adds that—particularly in the merino wool market—suppliers from Biella, Italy have always practiced sustainability.

Other brands, like Fair Harbor, have gone to the trouble of establishing themselves as B Corporations, certified by a Pennsylvaniabased not-for-profit that determines a company’s social and environmental performance. Luxury leader Loro Piana takes its commitment to the environment seriously,

“THE KEY IS TO STAY ATTUNED AND INFORMED.” —CECILE REVAH, BUGATCHI. calling out its focus on clean water, solar energy, and cogeneration plants. And these days, it seems as if the entire denim industry is focused on cleaning up its manufacturing facilities and recycling products.

More good news: these companies and others are more than happy to tell their story and share information with you and your sales staff. (May we suggest hosting an in-store educational event with organic cocktails?)

MR MAGAZINE

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R E TA I L R E C A P

WHERE ARE WE NOW?

DEPARTMENT AND SPECIALTY STORE MERCHANTS SHARE WHAT’S WORKING, WHAT’S NOT, AND WHAT’S NEXT.

the election year always is, this year will be worse.” So for us, we will continue to do what we do, cull through our assortments to the best of our ability and keep our inventory under control. We are not planning any drastic changes, just being even more mindful with our buys. I would rather lose a sale, than have to play Pac-Man with way too much inventory.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

KENT GUSHNER, BOYDS PHILADELPHIA: FOOT TRAFFIC FALL-OFF

DANA SWINDLER, MP3, MINNEAPOLIS: A CHOPPY MARKET

Our best-selling apparel these days: “overshirts” – at all price points. The demand is simply insane!

Blazers and knits are also performing well. The triple stitch sneaker by Zegna is on fire and has been for a few years now. Interesting to note: consumers want the original from Zegna way more than the less expensive knock-offs. Also selling well: thick angora and mohair sweaters.

“Color” is moving better this season than in years past. Corduroy in both pants and outerwear is rapidly gaining popularity.

On the disappointing side: men’s dress pants are still slow, men’s typical dress shirts (blue, white, generic) are slow. Work shoes are also slow.

Trying to predict demand has become a major challenge. The retail market has become “choppy” as I call it: up down, down up, left right, and sideways! It’s very hard to gauge when customers will be in to shop. This was not the case pre-Covid; it was a much more predictable pattern. So now if you’re wrong, you have too much inventory. It’s rare not to have enough.

But the opportunities are still out there. We try very very hard to listen to what our customers want to buy, and then what they are actually buying and wearing. We’re backing more heavily than ever the apparel with high sell-throughs and chasing into more, when possible. This puts more focus on reducing, or having to drop, the brands that aren’t performing.

Foot traffic is definitely a roller coaster this year, and likely next. With 2024 an election year, all the chatter is “you know how unpredictable

Performing better than expected: tailored clothing! We’re seeing more early season activity than we’d planned, not like the old days, unfortunately, but very encouraging. Many Philadelphia corporations (mostly law firms and tech firms) have mandated back-to-office guidelines since Labor Day. Comcast mandated four days in the office, and while they didn’t specify suits, there are baseline dress codes in place. So we expect to see continued growth in tailored clothing. Unfortunately, with so many Italian brands, we’re unlikely to get re-orders mid-season. Basics might be available, but what’s selling in sport coats is fashion fabrics. As for the exaggerated oversized runway looks, we dabbled in some looser fits and DBs in our spring ’24 buy.

We’ll be watching it.

On the flipside of dress-up, sportswear business has been so strong these past few seasons that customer closets are already filled; early fall sportswear sales have been a bit disappointing but should turn around closer to holiday.

I think the biggest challenge we face is the post-Covid fall-off in foot traffic. Our numbers are good in terms of dollars, but we have fewer transactions. Another challenge is recruiting and retaining new staff. With less store traffic, it’s hard for new sellers to get a foothold. Today’s generation wants instant gratification, and new sellers soon learn that the first six months will be challenging.

Changes we’re making into 2024: Encouraging our staff to develop relationships

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outside the store, to get involved with local charities, to reach beyond our four walls.

Waiting for clients to walk through the door doesn’t work anymore. Although having a store in the suburbs helps, it’s not enough.

That said, I do believe that there’s renewed opportunity for specialty stores in today’s environment. Customers are no longer satisfied with the poor level of service and limited assortments in the majors. Sellers in the big stores often lack product knowledge and/or the ability to connect with customers.

This opens a window of opportunity for the good specialty stores.

JB DUNN J3 CLOTHING, CLEVELAND, OHIO: EVENTS DRIVE TAILORED

Much to our delight, our business continues to do very well. We’re not hitting 2022 numbers (our best year ever in the 13 years of our existence), but business is very healthy.

There’s a rumor out there that sportcoats and suits are not selling. To the contrary: special events are still driving the tailored clothing category. That said, men are learning how to wear clothing differently. It’s a metamorphosis: they’re starting to pair fivepocket pants with nice sport coats.

CHRIS LAMBERT, C.J. MENSWEAR, FORT WAYNE, IN: SEEKING PARTNERSHIPS

Our off the rack and custom clothing business continues to shine. Right now, we’re having a great sport coat month.

Our higher end sweaters (Baldassari, Paul & Shark) have been excellent along with better outerwear from Gimos and Paul & Shark.

The pant business has also been strong, led by our expanded commitment to Brax. Our Stenströms dress and casual shirt business continues to shine, and our Magnanni shoe business keeps on growing. On the flip side, our casual pant and dress pant businesses have slowed, as consumers are preferring 5-pocket models.

Key challenges include trying to continue the phenomenal growth we (along with everyone I know) experienced in 2022. We were fortunate last year and it’s a challenge to meet and/or beat those figures in 2023. That said, we gained a lot of new customers in 2022, and we’re hoping to grow with those and add more new ones.

We’re optimistic about 2024 and continue to seek out new vendors and partnerships. I stress “partnerships” since those companies that work with us and help us tweak the right product mix are the ones we go back to and grow with. New is always exciting for the customer, so, like everyone, we evaluate our business each season and try to bring in a fresh point of view. We’ll continue to add in- store events for 2024.

On a planning side, we’ll pay even closer attention to our open-to-buy dollars for 2024, as you never know when things will slow down. In 2022, it was hard not to do well and easy to take chances, but we’re keeping a close eye on which vendors are the best fits for us.

BOB MITCHELL, MITCHELLS STORES: THE MAGIC IS BACK!

Selling best in men’s: sportcoats across the board at all pricepoints. From knits to fully constructed, best sellers are patterned, not solid blazers. Guys are wearing them both to the office and to events, with jeans and with dress pants.

Disappointing are suits and tuxedos: after two years of strong business and non-stop events, this business is slowing down a bit.

On the other hand, while we’re cautious about suits, we’re very bullish on outerwear.

The early read is good and it’s not cold yet. We believe that if guys aren’t wearing suits in the winter, they’re more likely to wear coats. And

“WHEN WE CAN CREATE MAGICAL EXPERIENCES, THAT’S WHEN WE WIN.” — BOB MITCHELL, MITCHELLS STORES we have the best assortment ever!

One obvious challenge we now face is competing against the strongest comps in our history. Menswear sales were off the charts these past two years, 2022 was our best year ever, and the first in which growth in men’s exceeded growth in women’s. Our average pricepoints are also up, so it’s going to be tough to meet these numbers.

On the other hand, what we’re seeing clearly is that the magic is back in the stores.

Our customers love coming in, working with our sales associates, shopping early and paying regular price for unbroken assortments. (We’re proud that 70 percent of our sales are at regular price.) A challenge now is continuing to innovate for the luxury customer who has everything. Another challenge is competing with off-price promotions and “points” in department stores and with assortments in mono-brand stores, now popping up everywhere.

As for changes we’re making in 2024: we’re investing in and renovating our stores to make them the center of the universe—for men, women, families. We want to make sure they remain fabulous, fun, and dynamic. We’re completely renovating Portland and San Francisco and building a new store in Palo Alto. When we can create magical experiences, that’s when we win.

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R E TA I L R E C A P LUXURY DEPARTMENT STORE EXEC: NO PLAYING IT SAFE!

What’s selling best lately is versatile, elevated sportswear that can be worn to the office, events, dinner, etc. Think Zegna, Cucinelli, Loro Piana, Louis Vuitton, Dior. What’s been disappointing is the footwear business.

Our greatest challenge these days is managing through a time when customers are gravitating toward sale vs. full-price. Another challenge is gaining market share via gaining new customers.

However, the challenge of gaining market share is also our greatest opportunity. We need to do everything better than our competitors.

What we need from the market: a broader range of pricepoints or a pricing architecture from the designer and luxury brands that attracts new clients to the brand. We need more fashion offerings. This is not the time to play it too safe.

customers and tell them about some great new styles that just came in and they’d come into the store to check them out. Now, it’s hard to find guys working downtown so I can’t generate business the way I used to. Fortunately, there are still enough weddings and graduations. Without dress-up events, I’d be in trouble.

I still carry inventory: I employ eight tailors.

(Other retailers use me for their tailoring needs.)

My mission hasn’t changed: to carry a broad selection of the best styles in sizes and colors not often available in department stores. My customers like what they like: if something fits and flatters them, they want it in every color. So whether it’s a jean from MAC or a sport coat from Windsor, I need to carry a broad range. I also need to manage the business better: the cost of carrying inventory has become excessive.

What I’d like to see in the market: more excitement, less predictability. We always bring in some forward fashion: wider lapels, DB’s…

And if we sell half of it, we’re happy. When I shop brands like Herno, Isaia, Brioni, I look for the one piece that’s different.

have also been strong.

What’s been a little disappointing is the frequency I would normally see my guys in the store. This could be partly due to the extreme heat we’ve had in Dallas. Fortunately, customers did clear out sale goods at the end of the season, but I notice many have been going on trips without shopping beforehand.

A big challenge going forward is tighter inventories: like many merchants, I tightened up my buys when I saw that customers were buying less. I now worry they won’t be patient if I have to order their size or style. Hopefully, our customers understand the many challenges confronting specialty store merchants. A related challenge is having the dollars to react in season. I still want to push new trends and new brands. I plan to keep guys in the dressier casual clothing, and not let them get too casual again. I hope to work with more customers one-on-one.

DEAVON MOORE, DLM SUPPLY, DALLAS: TIGHTER INVENTORIES

I’m seeing a shift to elevated casual. I’m essentially a casual store, but in men’s, I pushed the envelope this season and went dressier. So far, it seems to be working: I believe our guys were ready to upgrade, both for the office and for going out.

What’s doing well for us is cleaner, more fitted casual clothes in performance fabrics. Guys seem to be traveling again and often need to go to a meeting right off the plane. They want something that won’t be completely wrinkled when they get to their appointment. Footwear and accessories SCOTT SHAPIRO, SYD JEROME, CHICAGO: FASHION CREATES PASSION

Our customers have money and they’re spending it, but not necessarily on clothes.

Also problematic: the divisive, combative, and contentious ambiance in our country today: the haves vs. have-nots, big cities vs. suburbs. There’s no more workweek in major metropolitan cities; execs can work from anywhere and don’t come regularly to the office. They’re in Scottsdale, they’re in Palm Springs, they’re at their summer homes on Lake Michigan… For big city retailers, it’s much less fun these days: we’re working much harder to do the same or less business. If a guy wants a new shirt to wear out on Saturday night, he’ll go to Neiman’s or Saks in his local mall rather than deal with downtown.

In the old days, on a slow day, I’d call

PERRY LANCASTER, BRITTONS, COLUMBIA SC: COMMUNITY BRINGS CUSTOMERS

We’re doing a tremendous amount of business in tuxedos: both sales and rentals. Better sportswear (Johnnie O, Hagen, GenTeal, 34 Heritage, Ballin) and sport coats are also strong. What’s not selling as well is trendy shirts that are a bit too fashion-forward for my customers.

A key challenge is finding vendors who can fill-in mid-season. And vendors who understand partnerships. Brands that offer us great markups, sell-through, and exclusivity are those we will grow with.

I see real opportunity in reinforcing relationships within our community and in giving back. We’re involved in many community fundraisers; a major fashion exhibition focused on Alexander McQueen is currently running in Columbia through January. Participating in community events inevitably brings new customers to the store. Going forward, we’ll work even harder to strengthen relationships with both our customers and our brands.

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Southern Clothing Market Sponsored by

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GUEST EDIT

BLAZING NEW TRAILS

BLACK LEADERSHIP IS NOT A CHARITY; IT’S A PROFITABLE INVESTMENT.

BY BRANDICE DANIEL

IMAGINE A DECADE in the dynamic yet

challenging world of fashion, where your talents simmer silently, unnoticed, and unacknowledged. For years, my narrative was just this - an untold story, a silent song. After the tragic death of George Floyd, the fashion world awoke, and with it, the silent songs of many like myself became harmonious and loud. Voices, long muffled, now resonate loudly through the esteemed halls of iconic fashion houses.

During that period I was featured in Anna Wintour’s editor’s letter, shared two panels with Olivier Rousteing, and Tom Ford agreed to speak at our Black History Month summit.

Both Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan spoke at our events, and Vogue and the CFDA donated a million dollars to our nascent nonprofit. It felt surreal—a mixture of elation and anxiety about whether we were doing enough to seize this moment.

I was no longer a whisper. Top retail executives and fashion icons were not just seeing me, they were listening, truly listening.

I was valued. This narrative weaves through the experiences of many Black professionals post-2020. We relished this newly found attention, the acknowledgment, and the respect that flowed our way. However, while individual voices were amplified, systemic change within the structures of the fashion industry is moving at a slower pace.

It’s time to face a glaring truth: black leadership is notably absent in the upper tiers of decision-making within our esteemed industry. Yet, juxtapose this with a startling revelation - Black consumers, by 2030, are projected to command a formidable $70 billion annual spending in apparel and footwear alone according to McKinsey Institute for Black Mobility. These consumers, as well as fashion-savvy shoppers of all colors and ethnicities, are brand agile, ready to pivot their loyalty to Black-owned or founded brands.

This is not just a societal issue; it’s a colossal business opportunity.

The late, iconic Virgil Abloh and the appointment of Pharrell Williams at Louis

Vuitton show that diversity is not charity; it’s a profitable investment.

Yet, the absence of Black creative directors in the US is a glaring omission. Are the top echelons of U.S. based fashion and retail businesses tuned into the seismic cultural shifts?

We’ve reached a pivotal moment where ethical decisions and profitable opportunities intersect. The choice ahead isn’t about sidelining the progress we’ve made in ethics over the past three years for profit. Instead,

“WE’VE REACHED A PIVOTAL MOMENT WHERE ETHICAL DECISIONS AND PROFITABLE OPPORTUNITIES INTERSECT.” it’s an opportunity to amplify that progress by seizing the significant business potential that awaits us. This is a chance to effectively blend moral integrity with strategic growth.

Call me an unyielding optimist, but I assert that the essence of the fashion and retail industry is rooted in an optimistic spirit.

Harlem’s Fashion Row, which blossomed from a seed of an idea into a flourishing multimillion-dollar entity, is a testament to the power of unwavering belief and optimism.

I am resolute in my conviction that our industry is on the brink of a transformative journey, poised to confront systemic racism head-on while simultaneously embracing unprecedented business expansion. I envision a future where Black board members are not

An excellent example: Nicole Benefield’s collaboration with Abercrombie & Fitch.

exceptions but norms, where the appointment of Black CEOs at major retailers is a celebrated yet regular occurrence, painting a narrative of diversity and inclusion.

I foresee a time where Black creative directors are regular fixtures on global platforms, and Black design directors become a common presence in the U.S. fashion landscape. This vision is propelled forward by the proactive initiatives of companies like Gap Inc., which has invested over a million dollars in the growth of HBCU fashion departments.

Additionally, Abercrombie & Fitch, Peanuts, Macy’s, Saks, and Nordstrom exemplify progressive corporations recognizing and unlocking the boundless potential found in partnerships with Black designers.

In this evolving environment, interactions between top-tier executives and Black professionals are marked by genuine engagement and meaningful dialogue. Every discussion, every exchange, is another step in our ongoing journey to redefine an industry known for its style and elegance, imbuing it with the essence of inclusivity and diversity.

We are the trailblazers, carving out a new future where each footstep lays down a legacy of transformative change and progressive advancement. Each stride is a testament to an industry that is as adaptive as it is creative, as resilient as it is elegant, marking the unfolding chapter of a journey where ethical and business landscapes merge, illuminating paths for other sectors to follow.

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C A L A MEN’S SHOW EMBASSY SUITES 2220 MAIN ST. IRVINE, CA 92614

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MR Magazine spends a day in the life with man-abouttown Zach Weiss as he shares some of his favorite places in NYC with us.

Photography by Krista Schrueter Styling by Michael Macko

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Jacket, Turtleneck, Pants, Boots, and Sunglasses all

by Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Shot on location at Ralph’s Coffee.

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Coat by Paul Stuart; turtleneck by Paisley & Gray; goggles by Gucci. Shot on location at Chelsea Piers Sky Rink.

Opposite page: Sport coat and pocket square by Todd Snyder; trousers by J Press; shirt by Pennant by J. Press; tie by J. Crew; sunglasses by Illesteva; watch Analog Shift Universal; signet ring (throughout story) Weiss’ own. Shot on location at Haar & Co. Barbershop.

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Suit by J. Press; shirt and tie by Schostal Originals Rome; sunglasses by Persol; pocket square by Etro, watch Analog Shift Omega; Shoes by Sperry.

Shot on location at Daniel Cooney Fine Art. Opposite page: Robe by New & Lingwood; pajamas by Desmond & Dempsey; sunglasses by Ray-Ban. Shot on location at The Pulitzer Fountain.

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Tuxedo, shirt and tie all by Brioni; sunglasses by Ray-Ban; socks by Corgi; slippers by Manolo Blahnik; watch Analog Shift Certina. Shot on location at The Paris Theater. Opposite page: Suit, shirt, tie and pocket square all by Brunello Cucinelli; shoes by Blackstock & Weber; socks by Corgi; sunglasses by Ray-Ban; watch by Analog Shift IWC. Shot on location at Goodman’s Bar at Bergdorf Goodman Men’s Store.

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Photography by Krista Schrueter. Styling by Michael Macko. Grooming

by Scott McMahan, Honey Artists. Photography Assistant Christopher Ernst.

Styling Assistants Billy Teed & Auguste Lykes.

MR Magazine would like to thank Ralph’s Coffee, Haar & Co. Barber Shop, Chelsea Piers Sky Rink, Daniel Cooney Fine Art, Goodman’s Bar at Bergdorf Goodman Men’s Store and The Paris Theater for generously hosting us during this photo shoot.

We would like to extend a special thanks to the following individuals for helping to make this shoot happen and taking such good care of our cast and crew: Marisa Lee, Bianca Bozzelli, Michael Haar, Charlotte Soubirous, Daniel Cooney & Rothko, Alivia Dekker, Emily Marx and Jackie Chan.

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@ZACHARYWEISS IRL WHEN MR FIRST decided to feature a “real” person in our fashion pages and on our cover, our first choice was Zach Weiss.

His Instagram posts read like mini fashion stories and, as you can see, he’s a natural in front of the camera.

Coat by Paul Stuart; turtleneck by Paisley & Gray; goggles

by Gucci. Shot on location at Chelsea Piers Sky Rink.

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If you think you know Zach Weiss from @zacharyweiss, you don’t know the real deal. Yes, he’s well-traveled, well-dressed, and charming as hell, but there’s more to him than what’s seen onscreen. He’s smart, decisive and humble, and whatever project he is currently working on gets his full attention.

Like most members of Gen-Y, Weiss, 31, is a multi-hyphenate. Besides social media, he has two “big-boy” day jobs that pay the rent: he’s worked with Nice Laundry and Outspace for more than a decade, and also contributes to Vogue, RL Mag and WM Brown magazine.

His love of NY nightlife began while growing up in Connecticut, “in the middle of the state, outside the NYC bubble.” As an only child, the self-described “overtly preppy” Weiss would come home from school to devour sites like Page Six, TMZ and Style.com. On summers off, he parlayed this passion into internships with Fendi and Lizzie Grubman, where he started amassing his social network, Weiss now has a contact list that most New Yorkers would kill for.

After graduating from Syracuse University, Weiss used those contacts to become the party columnist at The New York Observer, a job that got him invited to every important event in town, but with a short shelf-life, from being out seven nights a week. His social media grew along with him and is now at 53k+ followers.

Weiss’s social media posts are not the same old smoldering selfies that litter most of Instagram, instead he is always having fun, lots of it, enough for both him and the viewer, so there’s no need for FOMO, whether it’s doing a cannonball into the Neptune Pool at Hearst Castle, Snow Polo on a frozen lake in St. Moritz, checking in to The Presidential Suite at La Mamounia in Marrakesh, or raising that eyebrow on the Croisette in Cannes. Weiss doesn’t obsessively check his Instagram metrics and numbers, just posts things that he thinks are “interesting” and let’s it happen. As far as the fashion goes, one does not style Weiss as much as one curates him, all of his brand verticals are well established, formalwear, sunglasses, slippers, loungewear, turtlenecks, it’s just about filling in the blanks with the right pieces and letting Zach be Zach, mission accomplished.

BY MICHAEL MACKO

10/17/23 2:35 PM

SOCIAL MEDIA

Navigating the Sea of

SOCIAL MEDIA

THE WORLD OF SOCIAL MEDIA IS CLEARLY OVERWHELMING, CONFUSING, AND TIME-CONSUMING. IGNORE IT AT YOUR OWN RISK.

BY RYAN MCINTURF

COMPARE A PHOTO taken inside a New York

City subway before smartphones to one from today. The resounding message: phone screens have replaced newspapers. According to recent studies, Americans spend four hours and 25 minutes each day on their mobile devices, compared to two hours and 54 minutes in 2022. Says Josh Peskowitz, operating partner at Untitled Group and an influencer in his own right, “Social media has taken the place of traditional print for the majority of readers.

Like print once did, social media can dictate trend and more importantly consumption, tremendously impacting the business of both retailers and brands.”

Consider the relationship between a brand and a retailer. Specialty stores must be vigilant since Instagram is a window into their operation not just for consumers, but also for brands. Jamee King, EVP of sales at Moose Knuckles, raises this point; “Social media is the first thing we check when we

get interest from a new retailer. It is vital in the vetting process. There’s an automatic ‘check list’ when auditing the social media of a retailer. Is the aesthetic in line with the brand, do the brand adjacencies make sense, is their voice in sync with your brand? How do they communicate events, trunk shows, sales/ promotions? Most important: how are they speaking to customers on these platforms?

Is it how your brand communicates? Is there engagement and/or is it engagement that you

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would want your brand to be a part of?”

Then consider the reverse relationship, between retailer and brand. Notes Clément Barret, head of streetwear at multi-label French retailer Citadium, “Social media allows me to capture directly the universe of a brand and the community around it. Brands often popup and disappear. Social media becomes a tool to better understand trends and which brands will be able to live in the store.” In other words, if used effectively, a buyer can reduce risk and more properly evaluate how successful the brand performance will be.

According to experts, engagement does not always correlate with number of followers.

Influencer and PR consultant Jessica Goldfond of Shiny Squirrel states, “Follower count is misleading since followers are often bought.

Ideally, you want an account that has higher engagement in terms of comments and likes.

It’s generally these influencers who can move product.” A board member from a major

luxury retailer The Webster, notes that he rarely uses social media to discover new trends.

“When the algorithms provide suggestions, it’s already too late. There are very few influencers in menswear: Justin Bieber, Ye, and Pharrell are part of a small list. Their style is most often reposted by their fans, not in their own content.”

But Nantas does use social media to create in-store excitement and sales. Understanding the strong community that the brand Saintwoods had created with Canadians, The Webster partnered with them for a store takeover at their Yorkville location. Not only did this bring content to social media, but it created a place where people wanted to hang out and shop.

Retailer Off the Hook is another good example. They partnered and promoted their Nike Dunk Montreal Bagel drop with local Montreal coffee shop Café Olimpico and St Viateur Bagel. Like The Webster, they understood their audience, giving Montrealers

“IDEALLY, YOU WANT AN ACCOUNT THAT HAS HIGHER ENGAGEMENT IN TERMS OF COMMENTS AND LIKES.” — INFLUENCER AND PR CONSULTANT JESSICA GOLDFOND OF SHINY SQUIRREL company (who wished to remain anonymous) recounted his partnership with two influencerled brands. In his case, the company was forced to drop the influencer with 10 times the following since the individual was unable to turn a significant amount of product.

Chiun-Kai Shih, founder of CKS Management, provides wisdom on how brands and retailers can mitigate risk in influencer partnerships. “Brands should prioritize authenticity, personal connections, and strategic targeting in order to maximize their success with social media influencers.” ChiunKai speaks from experience as he represents several influencer talents including Nick Wooster, who has partnered on social media with brands like Onitsuka Tiger.

Unfortunately, social media is not always accurate in anticipating future trends, especially in an industry with six-month lead times.

Rodolphe Nantas, head menswear buyer at

a reason to visit the store. Announcing limited quantities, they created a sense of urgency, which moved the merchandise and also generated international press coverage.

For all stores, it’s important to use social media with transparency given the longevity of the messaging shared. Consider the statement of Filippo Cavalli, partner at StyleCapital and board member of the Italian department store LuisaViaRoma. “Instagram is going to last for months and is dedicated to millions of customers scattered all over the world.” According to Mariko Ichikawa, entrepreneur and senior buyer, ‘’Generation Z now uses social media instead of search engines for brand research.”

Now that consumers are learning to differentiate influencers who are authentic from those who are paid to wear “favorite” brands, a greater awareness of how social media operates is critical to success. Never before have buyers had to be this smart. Or this lucky!

TRICKS OF THE TRADE

The founder of Street Night Live, with 56K followers and a weekly newsletter on clothing recommendations, shares some secrets.

How you maintain community:

It’s all about consistency mixed with honest opinions. I think it helps that my community knows I am just a single person who does everything for the blog and not a huge brand spending big bucks for paid promotional content. A lot of it has to do with building personal connections with readers. I try my best to answer every DM I receive to help people with anything fashion related. On top of that, I try to put out content on a regular basis so readers know they’re going to receive a recommendation newsletter from me at least once a week.

How blogs like yours influence fashion trends: As the blog continues to grow

in terms of number of followers, so will the impact of me talking about specific trends. I’ve noticed how other blogs and magazines pick up on certain posts of mine which can impact the content they put out. I believe I’ve cultivated a following willing to listen to independent writers and bloggers over big magazines and brands these days.

Importance of remaining authentic:

All content is influenced by trends, and by how people present content to maximize engagement. But the trick is to push that aside and write about what you think is cool. Of course, a lot depends on your taste level and if your following agrees with it or not.

It’s difficult to go out of your comfort zone and take risks but if you choose to do things your way, you’re more likely to influence the culture rather than follow it.

Best ways to partner with retailers:

It’s all about the in-person connection.

Who are the people behind these stores, what is their mission, what kind of brands do they carry, and so on. Meeting the people who run these retail stores and just having a conversation about clothing or common interests is the best way to see if our vibes align.

MR MAGAZINE

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E Y E O N T H E I N D U S T RY

Menswear’s

DYNAMIC DUOS

THESE COUPLES DRESS LIKE THEY MEAN BUSINESS...AND THEY DO!

BY MR STAFF

From the Beckhams to Beyoncé and Jay-Z, the tabloid world loves to celebrate couples with style.

Here at MR, we think that some of the best dressed twosomes come from our very own menswear world, where life — and sometimes business — partners show up Instagram-ready every single day. This month we’re celebrating those perfect pairs that always dress to impress.

Heather Falconer of the Falconer Agency and Wassim Serhan, Web Developer.

Matteo Maniatty of Descendant of Thieves and Whitney GarlickManiatty of Loro Piana.

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Lenor Romano, designer, with Michael Vecchione, retired Chief of the Rackets Division Kings County District Attorney office,and author.

Monica Hand, of Ethical Hands, with Douglas Hand, lawyer and author of “The Laws of Style.”

Cesar Galindo, Diane Von Furstenberg and Kenneth Fleishman, True Religion.

Karen and Murry Penner, of M. Penner, Houston.

Ellen and David Levy of Levy’s of Nashville, Tenn.

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GET READY!

2024 ADVERTISE WITH US UPCOMING ISSUES:

» JANUARY 2024 » FEBRUARY 2024 » JULY 2024 » AUGUST 2024 » NOVEMBER 2024

FOR MORE DETAILS, PLEASE CONTACT: LIZETTE CHIN, PUBLISHER: Lizette.Chin@wainscotmedia.com CHARLES GARONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Charles.Garone@wainscotmedia.com

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BY MICHAEL MACKO

GUIDE

WE ALL BUY GIFTS, whether it’s by the dozen for your store or as the perfect item for that special someone.

To help simplify the daunting task of selecting, we’ve walked the gift shows, perused catalogs, and scrolled through endless websites to bring you a curated assortment of unique gifts. Ranging in price from $8 to $39,000, we think we’ve found something for everyone. Who wouldn’t be thrilled to find any of these items presented with impact in their local men’s store, or received as a thoughtful treasure?

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GIFT GUIDE

Paul Smith Day Dreamer Candle, $88

Bally - Brown Leather Baseball Cap, $380

Maison Margiela - Replica Unisex Fragrance “By the Fireplace”, $85

One Kings Lane - Slim Aarons “Verbier Vacation” Giclée Print, $605

Daum - Miniature Hippopotamus, $300 Jan Leslie Mother-of-Pearl Collar Stays, $195

First Dibs - Victorian Era Men’s Clothing Store Sign, $2,500

Tateossian Rhodium Plated Nodo Pelle Cufflinks, $285

Recess Pickle-Ball Paddle Set, $136 1st Dibs Mid-Century Bowl, $415

Respoke - Orlanda Sneakers, $545

BMC - Pink Army Women, $16 Merci - Large Tote Bag, $144

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0

Marucci Palmetto - Light Blue Leather Baseball Glove, $200

Ginori 1735 - Luke Edward Hall Mug Set, $159

Booth & Williams - Vintage Books Color Pak, $195

Ghurka - Navy Crocodile Classic Wallet No. 101, $625

Bugatchi - Striped Socks, $25

Devonia Antiques - Pedro Friedberg Carved Wood Hand, $2,500

Jason Le Compte - Sterling Silver & Enamel Carabiner, $850 and “Wavy II” Signet Ring, $250 Design Within Reach - Eames Plywood Elephant, $2, 250 The Elder Statesman Cashmere Teddy Bear, $690

Nizhoni Traders - Vintage Navajo Cuff, $1,295

Lladro - White Shark Figure, $2,435

Jonathan Adler “Marcel” Accent Table, $1,900

Toast - Recycled Scrap Knit Hat, $95

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GIFT GUIDE Ryder & Amies - English School Scarf, $44

Rollbahn Delfonics Notebook, $13.00

Ettinger - Leather Glass Case, $140

Swiss Kubik - Gold Leather Watch Winder, $2,556

By Kilian - Black Phantom “Memento Mori” Fragrance, $330

Ginori 1735 - Il Favorito Blackstone Candle, $215

Parker - IM Rollerball Pen, $44

Chairish - Vintage, 1980’s “The Man” Valet Stand, $300 L’Objet - Chess Set, $2,150

Brooks Brothers - Shirt Tag Needlepoint Pillow, $245

Paul Stuart - Red Plaid Umbrella, $250 Eataly - Amarelli Calabrian Black Licorice, $8

Tom Ford - Crocodile T Icon Belt, $1,490

Fornasetti - Red Bow and Portrait Plate, $215

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Tiffany - Elsa Peretti Heart Paperweight, $65

Off White™ - Nassau Sunglasses, $285

Chanel - Boy De Chanel Nail Colour, $35

Seaman Schepps Shell, Pearl & 18k Gold Cufflinks, $3,550 Leica - 35mm, M-P Rolf Sachs Camera Kit, $14,900 Rolex - Gold Submariner Date Oyster, 41mm, $39,000

Getty Images - Peter Ruck, “Shaken Not Stirred” Photo Print, $605

Graphic Image - Bonded Leather, “The Catcher in the Rye,” $105 David Yurman - Spiritual Beads Onyx Evil Eye Bracelet, $1,699 Baccarat - BearBrick Crystal Lapel Pin, $300

Yvonne Leon Checkered Onyx & 9kt Gold Ring,

Ralph Lauren Home - Ferrari 250 GTO Model, $1,995

Bolin Webb Red Cooper Razor, $120

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LAST LOOK

Black Velvet Shacket

by Tallia, MSRP $295

I FIRST SAW THE velvet shacket in November of 2022

when I was at the Peerless showroom pulling looks for the January 2023 issue. It was presented to me as “something we are working on for next year that we think will be big”.

In hindsight, I was witnessing the creation of an entirely new classification, which in the menswear world is a rare occurrence considering the sometimes narrow codes under which the industry operates.

Formal Casual is in itself an oxymoron, but it accurately describe this new hybrid, which takes the casual shacket and dresses it up in a luxe velvet. Instead of the usual quilted or fleece lining, it receives a silky watercolor print. Iridescent buttons replace a stud set and suddenly you have a new evening option for men.

In the new post-pandemic work world, this is the perfect piece to have on hand for the office holiday party. Just pop it over a turtleneck or premium tee with dark pants or jeans and polished black shoes/boots and you’re good to go to any but the most formal of venues. Don’t forget to bring it home with you to wear over joggers for all the holiday open houses that eat up our December weekends.

Finally, we must acknowledge that “shacket” (a portmanteau of shirt and jacket) is perhaps one of the most unfortunate and disliked monikers in the menswear vocabulary. It beats out (barely) the other option of “jirt” but can’t we come up with a better name ? We challenge you readers to send us your ideas, the best of which we will use and promote with gratitude. —MM

PHOTO COURTESY OF TALLIA

THE SHACKET GETS DRESSED UP

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