POCKETS FALL / WINTER 2017
FALL FASHIONS THE PAGANI HUAYRA ROADSTER
RAISE THE BAR
BE THE TOAST OF THE TOWN IN THE SEASON’S HOTTEST LOOKS / PAGE 22
WHAT TO WEAR?
C O C K TA I L A R T I S T R Y
DRESS UP YOUR WARDROBE WITH THE BEST ACCESSORIES /
PAGE 12
BLACK-TIE 101
HOT COLLARS
TIPS FOR YOUR NEXT FORMAL AFFAIR / PAGE 48
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FEATURING:
TOM HARDY
PAGANI HUAYRA ROADSTER /
PAGE 20
SKI THE RISING SUN / PAGE 30 PERFECT POURS / PAGE 35
HOT UNDER THE COLLAR /
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F A L L / W I N T E R 2 0 17
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CONTENTS F/W 2017
FEATURES FEEL THE BREEZE | 20 Named after the Andean god of wind, the Pagani Huayra Roadster is a perfect blend of performance and style that will leave its drivers breathless.
SKI THE RISING SUN | 30 For those who love the slopes, there’s a surprisingly satisfying destination: Japan!
formalwear 101 | 48 Take these tips to ensure you’ll score high grades—sartorially speaking—at this season’s most important holiday events.
DEPARTMENTS Memo | 4 Pockets is your guide to personal style.
The Pockets Guide | 9 Classic elegance courtesy of Maurizio Baldassari...get a round with Edward Armah...Belstaff’s fine outerwear… Ask Mr. Etiquette…and much more.
Essentials | 12 Stock up on all the season’s best shoes, shirts, ties, pants and more. THE LEADING MAN
raising the bar
tom hardy | 18 On or off screen, there’s a rebel streak in this British actor-producer.
grape | 32 Raise your glass: Some off-the-beaten-path vintners are making decidedly distinctive champagnes.
You’ll be the toast of the town in the season’s hottest looks.
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spirits | 35 In every compass direction, cocktail artistry is reaching new heights as young talents pour it on.
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ROOM KEY | 44 After a $100 million restoration, Bermuda’s Hamilton Princess is looking—and feeling— more splendidly royal than ever.
HOT UNDER THE COLLAR | 46 One of these five shirt collar styles can complement your look, your moodand even your face. Which one is best for you?
ON THE COVER: From left, brown suit and patterned tie by Canali, check shirt by Luciano Barbera, pocket square by Edward Armah, belt by Orciani, shoes by Di Bianco. Grey suit by Luciano Barbera, shirt by Canali, tie by Eton, pocket square by Edward Armah, double monk strap shoes by Di Bianco, bag by Hook & Albert. This page, tuxedo by Canali, shirt by Eton, bow tie by Carrot & Gibs, pocket square by Simonnot-Godard.
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THERE ARE MOMENTS
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I H AV E D R E A M S .
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PURPOSE
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MEMO
Your guide to personal style
POCKETS THE PLAZA AT PRESTON CENTER 4000 VILLANOVA, DALLAS, TX 75225 214.368.1167 LEGACY WEST 7701 WINDROSE AVE. SUITE F170 PLANO, TX 75024 214-705-3036 WWW.POCKETSMENSWEAR.COM STORE HOURS MONDAY TO SATURDAY: 10:00 A.M. TO 6:00 P.M. Editorial Director ANDY WEIL Editor RITA GUARNA Art Director STEPHEN M. VITARBO managing Editor LANCE DEBLER Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS Editorial assistant ALENA WOODS Art Assistant YVONNE MARKI Contributing Editors MARISA SANDORA, TIMOTHY KELLEY, EVERETT POTTER contributing designer EILEEN CRABILL contributing photographer DIXIE DIXON PUBLISHING STAFF Publisher SHAE MARCUS
sneak peeks
Wear it well p. 27
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Step to it! p. 12
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Every season, Doug and I spend weeks in showrooms and cities, editing collections and sifting through thousands of swatches and samples. The reason? We seek the best of new and artisan brands as well as designer collections. This is a critical component to Pockets, and our hope is that you will discover these wonderful labels during your next shopping experience at our store. Selecting the very best also allows us to mix great collections like Canali with smaller lines such as Pescarolo or Giannetto. Come see some of the new brands we have like Ring Jacket, G’abo or Ign Joseph. Try on a great Fioroni sweater or Waterville vest. Your new favorite garment—sportcoat, shirt, five-pocket pant—is waiting to be discovered! Personal style is a reflection of oneself, and this cannot be achieved simply going to a single-brand store with one point of view. Of course, these collections and brands have fantastic items; however, they truly become great when you build your wardrobe, with assistance from the best and most personable staff around and a beautifully edited selection of more than 100 brands. Take a look at some of the selections in our fashion story “Raising the Bar”—which was photographed at Renaissance Dallas at Plano Legacy West Hotel (thanks to John Klukan, director of sales and marketing, for allowing us to use their wonderful facility)—then visit us at Pockets and let us be your guide on the journey to define your style.
National Brand Manager MONICA DELLI SANTI Director of Production and Circulation CHRISTINE HAMEL Advertising Services Manager JACQUELYNN FISCHER Senior Art Director, Agency Services KIJOO KIM Production/Art Assistant ALANNA GIANNANTONIO Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK PUBLISHED BY Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, RITA GUARNA, CHRISTINE HAMEL POCKETS Magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Pockets Menswear. Copyright © 2017 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, Pockets, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email rita.guarna@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services:
—Andy, Doug and the Pockets Team
To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Pockets, Circulation Department, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.
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THE
POCKETS GUIDE ITALIAN PASSION
BOW TIE HISTORY 101
Like many wardrobe staples, the bow tie has military origins. It was part of the Croatian army uniform in the 17th century, as a strip of scarf to hold shirt collars together. When well-dressed Frenchmen got hold of it (their word cravat gained currency in centuries 18 and 19) it evolved into the bow we know. In the late 1800s, “black tie” attire featuring a black bow gained popularity among wealthy members of the Tuxedo Club in Tuxedo Park, N.Y. Nowadays, of course, men wear bow ties with suits and sportcoats too, not just tuxedos. Ready to become a bow tie guy? Pockets has an up-to-date collection of formal bow ties in stock for any special occasion.
Since his teenage years in Milan during the 1960s and ’70s, Maurizio Baldassari has always had an interest in and distinct taste for elegant menswear. For today’s well-dressed gentleman, Baldassari’s passion for quality is the gift that keeps on giving. His eponymous line remains in the family—sons Renato and Roberto are at the forefront now and continue their father’s commitment to traditional Milanese tailoring practices. The results are timeless and sophisticated pieces made from the finest fabrics—cashmere, silk, suede and more—found around the globe. Themes and trends change every season, but the brand’s image remains the same: It caters to a strong, confident man and exudes modern style for every occasion. Stop by Pockets Menswear to see the latest from Maurizio Baldassari.
PICK YOUR POCKET SQUARE
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How a man folds his pocket square speaks volumes about his mood. Feeling traditional? A classic presidential fold is the way to go. This sharp, clean, no-nonsense rectangular shape suggests simple elegance. Bold and brazen today? Try the more intricate three-point crown fold. It takes a bit of practice, but its eye-catching design is worth it. A more free-form puff fold could be just the thing for a creative mood—it’s easy and gives off a casual vibe. And if you’re feeling romantic, a rose fold (pictured) makes an ardent statement. Prefer a silk square? Here’s a tip for you: Use a small piece of balled tissue paper with the pocket square to keep the accessory in place all day long. With pocket squares, each day is a chance to be someone new.
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THE POCKETS GUIDE THE A–Z LIST
At Pockets you’ll find more than 100 designer brands under one roof! See if you don’t find your favorites in the partial list below, then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love.
ASK MR. ETIQUETTE
BELSTAFF: MADE FOR ADVENTURE Belstaff’s stylish outerwear has long been associated with motorcycle riding, but the brand’s signature jackets are so timeless and functional that they belong in the wardrobe of every contemporary man. And Dallas men are in luck— the shelves at Pockets are now stocked with the latest from Belstaff. Founded in England in 1924, Belstaff gained fame for using waterproof waxed cotton, a fabric so versatile that it led to the brand securing the contract to make the British Army’s Colonial Jacket in 1940. The Black Prince Motorcycle Jacket debuted three years later, becoming the best-selling waterproof jacket of all time. The Belstaff leather jacket assumed a starring role in Hollywood during the 1950s as the garment became synonymous with the likes of Marlon Brando, James Dean and Steve McQueen. Today’s stars have also adopted the look: The lead characters in box-office blockbusters like The Avengers and The Bourne Legacy chased bad guys while clad in Belstaff. Off camera, actor George Clooney says he owns many Belstaff jackets, and he is frequently photographed in one. Slip into one at Pockets, and you too may be inspired to begin adding a new staple to your wardrobe collection.
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Andy Weil explains how to sail through life without giving offense. I’ve prepped myself for a job interview more aggressively than Presidential candidates practice for televised debates. And I have a fresh résumé, a sharpened pencil and a brand new legal pad. Now, what do I wear to telegraph a pulled-together, I’m-serious-about-this-job look? —Dumbfounded in Dallas A suit. An interviewee should dress conservatively, in either navy or charcoal, solid or with a subtle plaid or stripe. And fit is important, so your suit should be properly tailored and pressed. On that acceptable foundation, give yourself some leeway for self-expression. Your dress shirt should be solid, striped or with a small check. Go for soft colors that complement your skin tone. Choose an attractive tie that makes you stand out without appearing showy. Shoes should be classic with a fresh polish. Look at your prospective employer’s website for an idea of what executives are wearing in their photos. LinkedIn profiles will also help.
AG ALESSANDRO GHERARDI ANDERSON’S BELTS BELVEST BOGLIOLI CANALI CULTURATA DI BIANCO DOLCEPUNTA ELEVENTY ETON FEDELI FINAMORE FIORONI FRATELLI ROSSETTI GABO GARDEUR GIANETTO PORTIFINO GRAN SASSO GRAVATI HAMILTON HICKEY FREEMAN HILTL IGN JOSEPH INCOTEX INIS MEAIN JACOB COHEN J BRAND LUCIANO BARBERA MASSIMO ALBA MASON’S MAURIZIO BALDASSARI MAZZARELLI MOORE & GILES NOAH WAXMAN ORCIANI OXXFORD PESCAROLO PETER MILLAR COLLECTION PT01/PT05 RALEIGH RING JACKET SALT OPTICS SAMUELSOHN SIMONNOT-GODARD TO BOOT NEW YORK W. KLEINBERG ZANELLA
FRATELLI ROSSETTI
GET A ROUND If you’ve ever tried to fold a pocket square precisely, you’ll appreciate this. The squares’ newfound cousin, pocket rounds by Edward Armah, have been making the, um, rounds recently, and you can find them at Pockets. As well-dressed gentlemen have long known, a bright spot in the pocket can make the difference between being seen as just another guy in the crowd or as someone who exudes polish and sophistication. Now pocket rounds give you a subtle twist on a classic look—and they’re designed so you don’t have to be a rocket scientist to fold them. But you’ll still look pretty smart wearing one.
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ESSENTIALS
STEP TO IT!
| POCKETS MENSWEAR
Hurry to Pockets to slip on—or lace up—the latest looks in footwear.
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From top left to bottom right, leather lace-up shoes and double monk strap shoes by Fratelli Rossetti, tan lace-up shoes by Gravati, black wingtip shoes by Di Bianco, black leather sneakers by Fratelli Rossetti, blue sneakers by Andrea Zori, red lace-up shoes by Fratelli Rossetti, brown loafers and boots by Gravati.
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ESSENTIALS
GOOD TO BE A GUY | POCKETS MENSWEAR
Stride into the season sporting these cool pieces.
From top to bottom, jeans by Pescarolo, shirt by Bruli, laced boot by Gravati, jackets by Boglioli, scarves by Eton, brown belt by W. Kleinberg.
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ESSENTIALS
BELTS AND BAGS... Get the best of both at Pockets Menswear.
| POCKETS MENSWEAR
Clockwise from top left, belts by Orciani and Paolo Vitale, weekender bag by Hook & Albert, Benedict weekend bag by Moore & Giles.
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THE LEADING MAN
Hardy Soul On or off screen, there’s a rebel streak in British actor-producer Tom Hardy.
I
Still, Hardy’s badness wasn’t just image. In youth he got caught in a stolen Mercedes with a friend—and a firearm. And his drug problem, till he got sober in 2003, was serious. “Tom, you need to wake up,” he says he told himself. We’re all jarred awake when he bares his chest—he’s seen to that, having tattooed himself with everything from Buddha to the London skyline. (Reportedly his Oscar nomination lost him a bet with DiCaprio, obliging him to add “Leo knows everything” in script to his muchdecorated bod.) But he’s interesting in clothes too. Often seen casually wearing a leather bomber jacket, ripped jeans and a T-shirt (perhaps one showing him choking Revenant director Alejandro Iñárritu—he had such shirts made as a gag after a disagreement), he also cleans up with flair, as the premiere proved. The two-time dad just turned 40, and a guy does change. But even a mellower Hardy will always love outré haircuts, brass snake belt buckles and juicy villain roles. And as an actor, he’s not bad.
Clockwise from top left: Hardy cut a dapper figure at the premiere of Legend, wearing a three-piece suit and skinny tie; Hardy’s piercing blue eyes have won him legions of female fans; for the UK premiere of The Revenant, Hardy chose a grey double-breasted Burberry suit; often sporting an unkempt beard, Hardy is known for his scruffy facial hair.
FALL/WINTER 2017
s moviedom’s “bad boy” mellowing? Actorproducer Tom Hardy’s trademark feistiness about directors was AWOL in July at the London premiere of the World War II actioner Dunkirk. Wearing a three-piece, diamond-printed Gucci suit with a burgundy pocket square and a whitecollared, vertical-striped blue shirt, he purred praise for director Christopher Nolan: “I’ll do anything for him—within reason.” Maybe it’s the characters he plays. The brawny Brit left a bloody Leo DiCaprio in the woods to die in his Oscar-nominated turn in 2015’s The Revenant. But his RAF pilot in Dunkirk only assaulted the enemy from the cockpit of a Spitfire. Or maybe Hardy’s always been a secret pussycat. The son of an artist (Anne) and an ad executive/comedy writer (Edward “Chips”), he grew up in the London suburb East Sheen and oozed into acting at London’s Drama Centre, snagging 2001 roles in TV’s Band of Brothers and the movie Black Hawk Down. He’s even collaborated on projects with Dad, though his career proves he’s more than a block off the old Chips.
By Timothy Kelley
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FEEL THE BREEZE
Named after the Andean god of wind, the Pagani Huayra Roadster is a perfect blend of performance and style that will leave its drivers breathless. Italian automaker Pagani blew the roof off of the Huayra Coupe to create its airier, lighter and faster cousin. The Roadster is a true combination of innovative design and sheer power (a 6.0-liter twin-turbocharged Mercedes AMG V12 ensures the latter), and it’s the ultimate ride to get from point A to point B—if your intention is to turn heads and get to your destination as fast as possible.
Because every part of the Huayra Roadster is hand-built, production of each car is expected to be slower than most. Company founder Horatio Pagani says it’s the most complicated project he’s undertaken—and that’s the reason only 100 of these supercars will be manufactured.
At 2,821 pounds, the Roadster is 176 pounds lighter than its predecessor, the Huayra Coupe. With less weight and new carbon-titanium paneling, the Roadster can complete the 0–60 sprint in a blistering sub-3 seconds. Whew!
For comfortable driving in a variety of conditions, a state-of-the-art electronic stability control system (ESC) features five modes: Wet, Comfort, Sport, Race and ESC off.
Four movable flaps—two in the front and a pair in the back—improve downforce and help maintain stability, especially when the top is down.
Pirelli developed P Zero Corsa tires specifically for the Huayra Roadster. Pagani says the tires enable 1.80 g of lateral grip—a major factor in that 0–60 time.
| POCKETS MENSWEAR
A large, fresh air intake and a front-end splitter help generate speed. Both were designed to optimize the vehicle’s aerodynamics.
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Circular taillights on both sides of a bank of four exhaust pipes play up the curves and rounded edges of the car’s body.
The centerpiece of the Huayra Roadster’s interior is the seven-speed, single-clutch paddleshift gearbox.
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The rear-mounted twin-turbocharged MercedesAMG engine was designed and built specifically for Pagani. It generates a breathtaking 754 horsepower at 6,200 rpm. Now that’s some giddy-up!
Starting Price:
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Two removeable roof types give drivers an open-air experience: A carbon-fiber top with large glass panel offers a coupe-like appearance when installed, and a carbon-fiber frame with fabric can be stowed away in the car and attached when needed.
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raising the bar
You’ll be the toast of the town in the season’s hottest looks. Photography by Dixie Dixon
| POCKETS MENSWEAR
Shot on location at Renaissance Dallas at Plano Legacy West Hotel
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This page: swacket by Maurizio Baldassari, shirt and tie by Eton, jeans by PT05, belt by Simonnot-Godard, sneakers by Andrea Zori. Opposite: sportcoat and shirt by Luciano Barbera, pants by Pescarolo, belt by Orciani.
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This page: jacket by Maurizio Baldassari, sweater and shirt by Luciano Barbera, scarf by Eton, pants by Perscarolo, bag by Moore & Giles. Opposite: suit by Sartorio, shirt and tie by Canali, pocket square by Edward Armah.
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This page, from left: sportcoat by Mauro Blasi, sweater by Gran Sasso, shirt by Culturata, tie by Eton, pants by Canali, shoes by Fratelli Rossetti. Turtleneck by Gran Sasso. Opposite: jacket by Gimo’s, sweater by Luciano Barbera, shirt by Bruli, pants by Pescarolo, backpack by Anderson’s.
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This page, from left: sportcoat by Belvest, shirt by Eleventy, pants by Mason’s. Vest by Maurizio Baldassari, shirt by Giannetta, jeans by AG Jeans, shoes by Fratelli Rossetti, bag by Moore & Giles. Opposite: jacket by Luciano Barbera, shirt by Emanuel Berg, scarf by Maurizio Baldassari, pants by Mason’s.
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THE SPORTING LIFE
ski the rising sun
For those who love the slopes, there’s a surprisingly satisfying destination: Japan! By Everett Potter
| POCKETS MENSWEAR
J
apan is famous for so many things, from ancient temples to day-after-tomorrow tech, that typical American skiers can be forgiven if they don’t think of flying halfway around the world for snow. Ah, but what they’re missing! Among avid skiers and snowboarders like myself, “Japan” has become essentially a code word for “powder.” I have skied all over the United States, South America and Europe, but I’ve never encountered deeper, lighter, fluffier powder than I did in Japan, day after day. Mecca for me and other Japan-bound skiers is the northern island of Hokkaido, which lies east of the Russian mainland, just across the Sea of Japan. That combination of northerly latitude and cold sea creates a series of winter storms that deliver ungodly amounts of light powder to the mountains of Hokkaido, leaving as much as 600 inches in a very good year. The resorts around Niseko are the sweet spot, but nearby are quieter locales like Kiroro that also benefit from the nearly 50 feet of snow that piles up throughout the winter. I went in January, the month in-the-know powder fanatics focus on, when snowfall seems virtually constant. So many fellow skiers have caught the January Japan fever that the terms “JaPow” and “Japanuary” have entered skiers’ slang. Getting to Hokkaido is relatively easy, with a flight to Tokyo followed by a four-hour ride in the Shinkansen, or bullet train, north to the Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto. I loved that train, but on the return I chose to fly to Tokyo from Sapporo, site of the 1972 Winter Olympics Games and close to the slopes.
Of course, I had to ski Niseko when I was there, almost as a badge of honor. Yet while it gets the powder, it also gets the crowds, so I chose to stay in the smaller resort area called Kiroro Snow World, which many Japan fanatics consider the region’s hidden gem. Here I found that the five-star Kiroro, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel, was the ideal base camp for my Japanese skiing adventure. This Starwood property has clean-lined modern rooms that verge on minimalist, with the airy white duvets beloved by Japanese hoteliers. I chose a conventional room, but you could elect to sleep in one of the traditional Japanese-style suites with tatami mats and futons on the floor. A shuttle bus runs frequently between the hotel and the ski slopes of Kiroro, a mediumsized resort spread over two mountain peaks. The resort has 21 runs, which the Japanese call “courses,” with trails for beginners, intermediates and experts. There were wide and long red slopes such as Nagamine Course 2-C that were ideal for a morning leg-warming cruise even if they’d been buffed out to perfect corduroy. There were also more challenging back slopes such as Asari Course 2-A to venture to once I found my footing. Kiroro is not a dramatically challenging mountain, but there is tree skiing as well, which is always a thrill. What the mountain lacks is crowds and lift lines. As for precipitation, the snowfall was more of the “Snow Falling Gently on Cedars” variety than a full-blown whiteout, which was ideal. As I made my way down the mountain, I felt as if I were skiing inside a classic Japanese woodcut. Lunch was a highlight every day, usually a bowl of
udon or soba noodles, or maybe tempura. Three days into my stay, I ventured an hour away to Niseko. I found it packed with skiers, with loudspeakers on lift towers making too many announcements for my taste. I quickly learned that getting off the piste and into the trees was the way to go. Skiing in Japan turned out to have one other major advantage: lack of altitude. Niseko is only about 4,200 feet high, Kiroro about 3,200 feet. Consider that the thin-aired villages of Vail and Aspen sit at around 8,000 feet and that their lifts take you upwards of 11,000 feet, and you’ll quickly appreciate the difference. Back at the Kiroro Hotel, I discovered the classic Japanese relaxation comforts that are antidotes to hours of acrobatic turns through all that powder. The Kiroro has both an indoor and an outdoor onsen, a classic Japanese style communal thermal bath that is ferociously hot, just as it should be. There you’re segregated by sex, your garb consisting only of a very small washcloth. There’s also a separate onsen area in the Kitanoyu Spa and an even odder Japanese offering, the hot stone sauna, where you lie on stones heated to (or beyond) 115 degrees Fahrenheit. When I followed this with a cold draft Sapporo, I was barely capable of getting to dinner. Fortunately, the hotel has five eateries, including a very good sushi restaurant. Nightlife, short of a karaoke lounge, doesn’t exist. After a day in deep powder and a late afternoon soak and sauna, it was all I could do to order sushi and contemplate the next day’s heroics.
Clockwise from top: The abundance of powder in Japan in January has entered skiers’ slang as “Japanuary;” a deluxe king room at the Kiroro Hotel features clean lines and a minimalist feel; a major perk of skiing in Japan? Getting to enjoy Japanese food every day; after a long day on the slopes, a soak in the hotel onsen (a classic Japanese style communal thermal bath) is a must; the famous “snow monsters” at Zao Onsen Ski Resort are fir trees clumped with ice and snow; the lights of Niseko’s Hirafu village shine brightly at the base of the mountain.
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GRAPE
raise your glass
The bubbly reserved for special occasions is having a festive, toast-worthy time of its own. By Josh Sens
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n the fall of 2014, music mogul Jay-Z put his ample money where his mouth was when he purchased Armand de Brignac, the storied company behind his favorite bubbly. For pop culture watchers, the acquisition was a shimmering sign of champagne’s street cred. But for serious wine lovers, what gives the fizzy stuff its contemporary cool isn’t rappers and hip-hop stars rhyming about their cork-popping celebrations. Nor is it even the grand producers—“grandes marques”—that have long dominated the global champagne market. The big news is being made at the margins of the fabled Champagne region in northeast France, where a younger generation of winemakers has been putting a new stamp on the effervescent wine. Pardon our French, but champagne is in the midst of a renaissance. “It’s always been thought of as a wine for special occasions, and of course that’s still true,” says Paul Einbund, a respected sommelier who owns The Morris restaurant in San Francisco, which boasts one of the city’s most comprehensive bubbly collections. “But you now also have a growing number of producers who are using different grape varietals and playing around with styles within the tradition. As a result, you’re getting a lot of very interesting options, some of them quite affordable. It’s really an exciting time in champagne.” To appreciate the hubbub in champagne’s present, it helps to know a bit
about its past. As once dictated by tradition and now mandated by law, sparkling wine can only be called champagne if the grapes are grown, bottled and fermented within the region (about 100 miles east of Paris) of the same name. Though seven kinds of grapes are approved for use in champagne, three varietals have long played a dominant role: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Since World War II, the majority of champagne consumed around the world has been produced by the grand champagne houses, big names like Krug, Moët & Chandon and Dom Perignon. But in recent years that landscape has been shifting, its profile altered by a bumper crop of grower-producers who have set aside fruit to make distinctive champagne of their own. Among them is Charles Dufour, a scruffy-faced vintner who farms six certified-organic hectares in an off-the-beaten-path corner of the Champagne region. Dufour’s vineyards are composed of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, two of the Big Three varietals in the region. But he also cultivates old-vine Pinot Blanc, which his grandfather planted in the 1950s. Pinot Blanc is a rare find in Champagne. But like Chardonnay, it is capable of a great subtlety and balance, as evidenced by its influence in Dufour’s Le Champ du Clos Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, a champagne made with white grapes only. Dufour produces this blanc de blancs through natural methods—no filtering, no added sugar, only wild yeast—the better to showcase the
wine’s inherently complex traits. “I try to avoid things my father and other vintners used to add to their wines, like sugars and dried yeasts and enzymes to clarify juices,” Dufour says. “I do this not only for fun, but also so I can better understand what is really happening with the wines without intervention.” Dufour is not alone in his less-is-more approach. Or in his reliance on unheralded varietals. He has a kindred spirit in Michel Laherte, the fifth-generation vintner who runs Laherte Frères. As part of his explorations in Champagne, Laherte has recreated one of the family’s long-lost plots, planting a mix of fruit that sprang from the soil centuries ago. One of the releases, Lahore Frères Les 7 Extra Brut, is a lively bubbly that lives up to its name: It’s a blend of all seven champagne grapes. Another attention-grabbing bottle on the market comes from the venerable champagne house Tarlant, whose roots reach back to 1687. In the centuries since, three grape varietals—Pinot Blanc, Arbanne and Meslier—have grown vanishingly scarce in champagne. But siblings Benoit and Melanie Tarlant have put them to good use in Tarlant BAM! Brut Nature, an uncommonly delicious bubbly. For years, the three grapes in Tarlant BAM! had been nearly forgotten in champagne. They now serve as a reminder of what’s changing in a region where it seems everything old is new again.
TASTING NOTES NV Charles Dufour Le Champ du Clos Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs ($70) Delicate notes of stone fruit give way to hints of toasted almonds, with a refreshing minerality to the finish. NV Lahore Frères Les 7 Extra Brut ($94) A beautifully subtle bubbly with a clean, dry finish, brightened by hints of lemon and grapefruit along the way. NV Tarlant BAM! Brut Nature ($175) Just-so oak-aging gives this balanced champagne a nice round body, its butteriness complemented by hints of tart plum.
Clockwise from top: Jean-Mary and his son Benoit work together in their family’s vineyard, Tarlant; Tarlant’s vines are suspended between maritime and continental climates; as its name suggests, Lahore Frères Les 7 Extra Brut blends all seven champagne grapes; Dufour’s blanc de blanc is made with white grapes only; champagne is still the perfect pour when celebrating, but these days, you don’t need a special occasion to drink bubbly; Tarlant’s BAM! Brut Nature is a blend of Pinot Blanc, Arbanne and Meslier, hence the name BAM! and, says the family, it also stands for Benoit and Melanie.
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HEAVY POURS
By Whomever
In every compass direction, cocktail artistry is reaching new heights as young talents like these four pour it on. By Timothy Kelley
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FALL/WINTER 2017
hether or not it’s the place where—as Cheers had it—“everybody knows your name,” the cocktail bar is a venerable institution. It’s where many of us recuperate from a tough day, follow our sports teams, make new friends or argue trivia with old ones. There we’re at our most convivial, and sometimes our fanciest—or grungiest—or loudest. But in recent years there’s been something new on the bar: the cocktails themselves. Oh, today’s drinks still taste good and give you a buzz. But a new generation of innovative bartenders is making them more interesting than ever. These often competitive pros are concocting new combinations, searching out novel ingredients, squeezing fresh juices from exotic fruits and making their own syrups, all in the name of your glorious good time. Meet four of them—with a cocktail recipe from each—on these pages.
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NORTH Aaron Pollack The Dawson, Chicago
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It isn’t just the Cubs that make Chicago cool. “The city is now at the forefront of the culinary and hospitality industry,” says Aaron Pollack, bar manager at The Dawson, located in an old fireplace-mantel factory in the West Town neighborhood. “We’re no longer just doing what New York or San Francisco was doing.” Pollack, 34, grew up in nearby Wheaton, Ill., and started his bar career as a University of Iowa mechanical engineering major, discus thrower and shotputter. Today he puts shots in a glass. A bartender, he believes, is one of society’s last true generalists, someone who must know a little about many things and be able to talk to anyone.
He draws on Chicago’s rich cultural mix. “One of my favorite things to do when I’m developing a new seasonal cocktail,” says Pollack, “is go to the little bodegas and Mexican grocery stores in my neighborhood, Humboldt Park, and look at fruits I didn’t grow up with as an Italian-American kid. That’s how I push my boundaries.” Indeed, this genial Midwest jock is an innovative craftsman who enters worldwide cocktail competitions—in Morocco recently, for example. “I took a pay cut to come to The Dawson and really explore my cocktail game,” he says. “You make more money crankin’ beers and pourin’ shots.” Still, Pollack’s no cocktail snob. “Six or seven years ago our industry got a little pretentious,” he admits. “It was, ‘Oh, you don’t know what I’m making? Then you can’t have one!’” Today he sees—and embodies— a more welcoming approach: “I’ll tell you about it and let you try it. And if you don’t like it, I’ll make something you do like.”
Smoking Pistol n ¾ oz. Compass Box Great King Street Glasgow Scotch n ¾ oz. Carpano Antica n ½ oz. Rittenhouse rye n ¼ oz. Tariquet Armagnac n barspoon of Benedictine n 2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters n 2 dashes Dead Rabbit’s Orinoco bitters Combine and stir ingredients, then strain into an old-fashioned glass with a big cube of ice. Finally, squeeze a peeled lemon over the drink. (For an optional olfactory plus, add a spray mist of Compass Box Peat Monster Scotch, using an atomizer.)
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EAST Harrison Ginsberg The Dead Rabbit, New York What’s this—a bartender who worked gratis? Harrison Ginsberg grew up in Dobbs Ferry, N.Y., and attended Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I. When a Providence restaurant called The Dorrance opened with an ambitious cocktail program, he labored there free for six months to learn his craft. It paid off. Today, at 27, after a stint at The Dawson in Chicago, he tends bar at two downtown Manhattan spots, The Dead Rabbit and BlackTail. And he collects not just paychecks, but prizes in cocktail competitions—last fall Drinks International magazine named the Rabbit the world’s best bar.
Ginsberg started out to be a chef, but his detour to libations wasn’t so unlikely. After all, it’s the recent revolution in cuisine—insisting on fresh ingredients and doing things right even if it takes longer—that inspired a similar renaissance behind the bar. Today, he says, you’ll see surprising savory ingredients in cocktails—mushrooms, dill and miso, for example. “When I’m out I like to find a drink on the menu that doesn’t sound like it’s up my alley at all, and order that,” he says. But when Ginsberg and his girlfriend entertain in their home in Brooklyn’s Clinton Hill neighborhood, his mainstay is a batch of gin martinis made with a liter of a London dry gin such as Tanqueray, 500 milliliters of vermouth and 10 ounces of water, stirred and stored in bottles in the freezer. “The texture changes slightly in the freezer,” he says, “so that the gin has a rich, creamy, velvety feel.”
Ballerina n ¾ oz. fresh lemon juice n ½ oz. fresh pineapple juice n ¼ oz. cane syrup (2:1, cane sugar to water) n ¼ oz. ginger syrup n ¼ oz. apricot liqueur n 1 oz. Rainwater Madeira n 1½ oz. vodka Shake cocktail and strain into a punch glass or wine goblet; garnish with grated nutmeg.
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SOUTH Curtis Carrillo Sweet Liberty, Miami Beach Truly “elevated” cocktail craftsmanship is practiced in perhaps eight or 10 markets around the country by 30 or 40 with-it mixology mavens, says Curtis Carrillo, 31, of Miami Beach’s Sweet Liberty. “We all kind of travel in the same circles, you know?” he says. “It’s a lot smaller world than people think.” Young bartenders today draw inspiration, he explains, from pioneers who helped revive the classic pre-Prohibition cocktail art, including three who won fame in New York starting in the late 1980s and early ’90s: Dale DeGroff at the Rainbow Room, the late Sasha Petraske at Milk & Honey
and Jim Meacham at Please Don’t Tell. Carrillo grew up in southern California, tending bar through college, and worked in Las Vegas before landing in South Florida. He says his style was influenced by the “high-volume” places he’s been employed, but bartending has always required more than putting drinks—even creative ones—on the bar. “People think bartenders just listen,” he says. “But a really good bartender gives you back something better than you give him or her.” Seems something’s going right. Sweet Liberty was chosen last year as the Best New American Cocktail Bar in the Spirited Awards at the 15-year-old annual New Orleans cocktail festival “Tales of the Cocktail.” “The cocktail scene here is still being defined,” says Carrillo. “I like that about Miami Beach. We take things a little less seriously here.”
Daiq Nuke ’em n 1½ oz. Wray and Nephew white overproof rum n ½ oz. Plantation pineapple rum n ¾ oz. lime juice n ¾ oz. simple syrup Combine ingredients in shaker and agitate. Strain and serve.
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WEST Yael Vengroff The Spare Room, Los Angeles Can you have exacting standards and still be fun? You can if you’re Yael Vengroff, beverage director at The Spare Room, which combines a bar with bowling and gaming in the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel. “Everyone’s very supportive in L.A., which is great,” says the 30-year-old. “But we also need to be critical and have the guts to say, ‘We can do better.’” Part of it is simply that broad-based cocktail culture is relatively new here— even though the Roosevelt itself opened six days before Lindbergh’s flight in 1927 and for two years was Marilyn Monroe’s home. “In terms of technique,” says Vengroff,
“L.A. still has a lot of growing to do.” Yet she estimates that 70 percent of her customers are cocktail connoisseurs who value her insistence on using fresh juices and homemade syrups. And this perfectionist is anything but uptight. “I’m a ‘have fun at the bar’ type,” she says. “I try to be as unprecious as possible. It’s about the guest having a good time.” The Houston native attended NYU and started as a cocktail waitress in an East Village sports bar. She first tended bar at 19 at the Tailor under Eben Freeman. After moving to L.A., she was named “Fastest Hands in the West” in 2014 and took over the beverage program at The Spare Room the next year, helping it snag Time Out Los Angeles’ 2016 “Bar of the Year” honors. “Be adventurous,” she advises. “Branch out from that one brand you’re always drinking. You may open yourself to a whole new world of flavor.”
Barracuda n 2 oz Caña Brava white rum n ¾ oz. lime n ¾ oz. pineapple n ¾ oz. simple syrup (1:1) n ¼ oz. Clear Creek pear brandy n 2 shiso leaves Muddle shiso leaves by lightly pressing with a muddler. Shake with ice. Double-strain over fresh ice. Use double old-fashioned glass with cubes; garnish with 1 shiso leaf standing upright in glass.
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ROOM KEY
royalty reborn
After a $100 million restoration, Bermuda’s Hamilton Princess is looking— and feeling—more splendidly regal than ever. By Rita Guarna
| POCKETS MENSWEAR
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sn’t it every girl’s dream to be a princess? It was almost as nice, I can report, to spend a few days living like one—at the Hamilton Princess on the beautiful island of Bermuda. I’d stayed at Bermuda’s other “Princess”—the Fairmont Southampton, formerly the Southampton Princess—decades ago and vowed to check out her sister urban luxury resort someday. What better time than right after a comprehensive restoration? The Hamilton Princess sits on the outskirts of Hamilton, Bermuda’s capital and financial center, and first welcomed guests in 1885, two years after a real-life princess, Louise, a daughter of Queen Victoria, was enchanted by the island. It was Louise who inspired the five-star resort’s name. No doubt she’d be equally pleased with its recent $100 million facelift. Only the best for royalty! The Pink Palace, as the hotel has been called, does not disappoint. While I was still awed by its classic exterior, there, suddenly, was a contemporary lobby with jaw-dropping, museum-quality pieces by noted artists. Lots of hotels have fine art, but this one makes you feel as if you’ve walked into a world-class gallery. Any old dame is sure to feel like young royalty feasting on cuisine by celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson or taking a curated art tour, ogling the more than 60-piece collection by the likes of Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Damien Hirst and Tom Wesselmann, or lying semi-submerged on beach hammocks suspended over vibrant blue waters, or unwinding at a new Exhale-branded spa, a sprawling—8,200-squarefoot—yet serene spa and fitness center overlooking the harbor. Less than two hours from the U.S. East Coast, Bermuda is part of a 21-square mile, 180-island archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic. It’s perfect for those craving prim-and-proper British civility (think afternoon tea and cricket matches) amid gorgeous beaches and friendly people clad, of course, in the shorts that share the island’s name. It’s no wonder the resort is popular among both vacationers and businesspeople: It’s amazingly well-
run; soon after arriving I felt that here all my needs would be met. Rooms and suites come with harbor, garden, pool or city views. Ours overlooked the harbor, and I must admit that sipping a cocktail on the balcony above the 60-berth marina and watching the comings and goings of superyachts can be hypnotic. Bathrooms are modern marble marvels with a lovely line of Le Labo Rose 31 toiletries. When it’s time to dine, the Hamilton Princess offers choices that put to shame the cookie-cutter eateries at many resorts. The 1609 Bar and Restaurant, named for the year the first colony was established here, is the only one at the new marina and offers fresh-from-the-boat seafood, salads, sandwiches and burgers. We loved the charred octopus, crispy conch fritters and fish tacos for lunch. For breakfast, the Crown & Anchor boasts a huge buffet (a la carte choices too), and you can dine alfresco. The hotel’s crowning culinary glory is Marcus’, Chef Samuelsson’s ode to island fare. The “Ol’ Man’s Shrimp & Grits” was lick-your-plate good; the “Steak Frites” a carnivore’s delight. We ate there twice, and both times were wonderful: fresh, delicious food (think multilayered flavors), great service and perfect people-watching. While you can easily lounge around the hotel and feel completely content, a playground beckons. For one thing, Bermuda is a golf lovers’ dream, with more courses per capita than anywhere else in the world. One award-winning course, Robert Trent Jones’ Port Royal, has stunning views of the ocean. In fact, the 16th hole requires a 235-yard shot over the Atlantic. As one would expect, Bermuda is one of the best places to sail (no wonder the island played host to the 35th staging of America’s Cup this summer, beating out respected sailing venues like Newport and San Diego). You don’t need to be a professional contender to enjoy the sport: The island’s Great Sound, with warm water and perfect wind—usually around 10–15 miles per hour—makes it ideal for an afternoon of zipping along the sea. Lazier types will delight in one of the pink-
tinged sand beaches (the hue comes from crushed coral from the nearby reef) that line the 75 miles of coastline. Most of the action is at sea level, of course, but if you want to see everything, head underground too. The Crystal & Fantasy Caves in Hamilton have beautiful natural rock formations that are reflected in the caves’ 55-foot-deep pool, giving it an otherworldly feel. History buffs will rejoice in the maritime heritage of this British naval stronghold. Some 91 old forts dot the island and many are open to the public. The Royal Naval Dockyard (it’s been there since the 17th century) is interesting but a tad touristy, as it’s close to the cruise ship port. Check out Fort Hamilton in Pembroke Parish for a less crowded look at old military might. Another fine choice, Fort St. Catherine, is located in St. George, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which was founded in 1612. You’ll be exploring on foot, as no car rentals are allowed. If you must have wheels, rent a scooter (remember to “drive” on the left). Or, better yet, buckle up in one of the Hamilton Princess’s two-seat Renault Twizy electric vehicles. The narrow, four-wheel Twizy, a compound of “twin” and “easy,” was designed by Renault’s Formula One racing team and can travel up to 50 miles on a single charge. We found it perfect for touring St. George and drove it to Gibbs Hill Lighthouse, one of the oldest cast-iron lighthouses in the world. All that exploring is sure to make you hungry again. Why not try the fish chowder, which is about as close to a national dish as you’ll find? It’s a Manhattan-chowderesque number prepared with tomatoes and onion and seasoned with black rum. Should you get thirsty, every bar proudly serves the Dark ’n Stormy, the island’s signature cocktail. Made with dark rum and ginger beer, the tipple is trademarked by Gosling’s Rum, the oldest and largest export business on the island. It’s a refreshing concoction that in no way resembles the cloyingly sweet rum punches we’ve all tried on other islands. Raise your glass to offer a royal toast—not so much to this delightful visit, but perhaps, to your next.
Opposite page, from top, left to right: Watching yachts taxi in and out of the marina is a leisurely activity at Bermuda’s Hamilton Princess; famed Chef Marcus Samuelsson created a menu inspired by island fare for his restaurant, Marcus’; the iconic hotel offers rooms and suites overlooking the ocean, garden, pool or city; visitors can take in the oceanfront view from Marcus’, a dip in the infinity pool or enjoy the more than 60-piece art collection by renowned artists likes Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Damien Hirst and Tom Wesselmann.
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MADE-TO-MEASURE
Hot Under The Collar One of these five styles can complement your look, your mood—and even your face. Which one is best for you?
This style is known as fashion’s safest bet—from the way its points perfectly meet and then disappear into a sportcoat to its crisp look even when you’re not wearing a tie, the spread collar is suitable for any occasion. It can also help a thinner man look more proportioned. How? The collar’s wide look is the perfect counterpoint to long facial features.
| POCKETS MENSWEAR
By Lance Debler
SPREAD COLLAR
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POINT COLLAR
BUTTON-DOWN COLLAR
CUTAWAY COLLAR
CLUB COLLAR
The most popular style of collar, found on some 90 percent of all men’s dress shirts, the point is best for men who prefer a medium to small tie knot. Perhaps most important, it’s extra-flattering on a man with round features, as its elongating effect will visually lengthen (and hence slim) his face. Conversely, a man with a thin face may want to avoid the point collar, as it’ll only elongate his mug.
This style gained popularity in the mid-19th century when England’s Eton College was looking for a way to distinguish its students’ uniforms from that of other educational institutions. It eventually became known as the club collar to convey an air of sophistication, and enjoyed a revival when period TV shows began featuring characters in them (think Mad Men’s Don Draper). They’re best for a cocktail party or an elegant event, when you’re feeling adventurous and want to mix poise with a bit of playfulness.
FALL/WINTER 2017
Sometimes referred to as a Windsor collar—because it provides plenty of room for a Windsor tie knot—this style emerged in the 1930s and is considered a more pronounced version of the spread collar. Wear one for a jaunty look that sets you apart with a bold, yet nuanced fashion statement.
A hallmark of more casual shirts, this collar is perfect for the man who’s forgoing a necktie for the day and still wants a crisp, clean look. Not ready to toss the tie? Wear one with a button-down collared shirt for an instantly preppy vibe.
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FORMALWEAR 101 The holidays in Dallas mean you’ll be off to Black-Tie Optional, Black-Tie and White-Tie events. Pockets Menswear can provide great advice to help you score high grades, sartorially speaking, with these formalwear tips. BLACK-TIE BASICS
Black Tie: The words conjure up images of life’s most meaningful moments—weddings, fundraisers and galas. What’s the secret to looking sensational? First, start with a great tuxedo, one with either a peaked or shawl lapel that fits perfectly. Next, you’ll need a shirt. There is no one correct style—formalwear today is about personal taste. Whether your shirt is pleated, pique or French/plain front, there’s a collar for every man: rounded, wing, point, spread or cutaway, as these shirts—Eton’s spread, wing and cutaway collars—show below. Then there’s the finish. No formal look is complete without an appropriate bow or neck tie and a stud set. (A cummerbund is optional and should be worn with a bow tie only.) Remember, have some fun and let your personal style shine. AVOID RENTALS
Avoid renting a garment unless it is absolutely required by a bride or groom. Rental tuxedos are usually made with inexpensive fabrics, and the sleeves typically have closed sleeve construction (cheaper) to make alterations easier. Also consider that dry cleaning rarely removes all the sand, perspiration, etc. from most men’s clothes. Plus, after five events, it would be a wise investment to own your own tuxedo.
| POCKETS MENSWEAR
FIND IT AT POCKETS
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Every well-dressed man should own a tuxedo that’s tailored to fit. Whether you’re preparing for a wedding, prom or black/whitetie affair, Pockets can dress you for every memorable occasion. We offer everything you need to present a picture of elegance, from sophisticated dinner jackets, custom tuxedos and shirts to finishing touches like stud sets, cummerbunds and silk neckwear. Our experienced in-house tailors are available to make any adjustments for the perfect fit. For more formalwear rules, visit the store and ask any of our knowledgeable staff members.
11/1/17 9:27 AM
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