POCKETS FALL FASHIONS
FALL / WINTER 2019
FALL INTO PLACE
FORMAL EDUCATION
GET ALL THE LOOKS YOU NEED—WHEREVER YOU’RE HEADED THIS SEASON / PAGE 28
LEARN THE ROPES
MUST-HAVES THAT WILL KEEP YOUR STYLE IN THE LOOP / PAGE 8 THE FERRARI F8 TRIBUTO DWAYNE JOHNSON
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FEATURING:
SKIING IN FRANCE
TUX TIME: GET IT RIGHT /
PAGE 36
FRENCH CONNECTION /
PAGE 40
THE STEW OF MEXICO /
PAGE 42
‘CHARM CITY’ CHARMER /
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F A L L / W I N T E R 2 0 19
CONTENTS
DEPARTMENTS Memo | 2 Pockets Menswear gives you the experience you deserve.
The pockets Guide | 5 Massimo Alba’s cool Italian style...refined outerwear from Moorer...choosing the right underwear...and much more.
Essentials | 8
fall/ winter 2019
At Pockets Menswear, stocking up on all fall’s must-haves has never been easier.
FEATURES
THE LEADING MAN
Ferrari’s hottest | 20 The F8 Tributo, the Italian brand’s new flagship, is a blend of its greatest hits and today’s chart-topping tech.
What a comeback! | 22 Some hotels rest on their laurels, but not these four. They’ve remade themselves— with exciting results.
formal education | 36 It’s a fact that any man looks good in a tuxedo—as long as it’s the right one, of course. Consider these head-to-toe tips to find the perfect look for your next special occasion.
Dwayne Johnson | 18
The former professional wrestler has become a firmly established— and nattily dressed— screen star. THE MUSE
emma stone | 38
the sporting life | 40 At Alpe d’Huez in the Alps, great skiing matches up with unforgettable scenery, dining and nightlife.
gourmet | 42 Bowls of tasty posole are like snowflakes—no two are exactly alike.
Grape | 44 Once typecast as plebeian and fish-friendly, Verdicchio shows unsuspected depth and versatility.
Room Key | 46 Baltimore’s coziest luxe hotel, The Ivy, feels homey in a way that home itself can’t quite match.
end page | 48 Edoardo Fassino wears the pants at PT Torino.
Sexy, husky-voiced Emma Stone has shown amazing range and conviction as a performer, proving that she’s a gem.
fall into place
p.
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ON THE COVER: Puffer vest by Herno, sweater by Eleventy, jeans by AG.
FALL/WINTER 2016 2019 SPRING/SUMMER
We promise you’ll be ready to roll with the season’s top picks from Pockets Menswear.
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MEMO
An experience you deserve
POCKETS
THE PLAZA AT PRESTON CENTER 4000 VILLANOVA, DALLAS, TX 75225 214.368.1167 MONDAY TO SATURDAY: 10:00 A.M. TO 6:00 P.M. LEGACY WEST 7701 WINDROSE AVE. SUITE F170 PLANO, TX 75024 214.705.3036 MONDAY TO SATURDAY: 10:00 A.M. TO 7:00 P.M. SUNDAY: 12:00 P.M. TO 5:00 P.M. WWW.POCKETSMENSWEAR.COM Editor in chief RITA GUARNA creative Director STEPHEN M. VITARBO senior Editor DARIA MEOLI senior Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS lifestyle editor HALEY LONGMAN Editorial assistant GIANNA BARONE Art director VICTORIA BEALL Contributing Editors EVERETT POTTER, JOSH SENS contributing photographer DANIEL SPRINGSTON PUBLISHING STAFF group Publisher SHAE MARCUS
sneak peeks
Warm thoughts p. 6
Fasten up p. 14
Styles have changed, trends have come and gone, and the rules of dressing have evolved. Many things have changed have changed since Pockets Menswear opened in 1974; however, there has been one constant: our commitment to the customer experience. It begins with familiarity and a staff that doesn’t change. Not only do we know your style, we know you. We aim to create an environment where you discover new, unique and unexpected finds that we’ve searched high and low to bring directly to you. We also look forward to sharing with you the story and details behind the brands that we’ve found. Finally, we top it off with an exceptional tailor shop that completes the experience. From beginning to end, this transcends a mere store experience—we are a community. These things cannot be achieved in a large format store or online. Our fall merchandise is spectacular. Whether you are shopping for yourself or for a gift, come in, and let us make you feel great and “look better than you have to.”
| POCKETS MENSWEAR
—The Pockets Team
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director of sales MONICA DELLI SANTI Director of Production and Circulation SUSAN WINDRUM director of Advertising Services JACQUELYNN FISCHER graphic designer, ad Services VIOLETA MULAJ production art associate CHRIS FERRANTE accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK, RANDY TASHJIAN PUBLISHED BY Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, RITA GUARNA POCKETS Magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Dr., Park Ridge, NJ 07656, in association with Pockets Menswear. Copyright © 2019 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, POCKETS, 1 Maynard Dr., Park Ridge, NJ 07656; telephone 201.571.2244; email rita.guarna@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, POCKETS, Circulation Department, 1 Maynard Dr., Park Ridge, NJ 07656; telephone 201.573.5541; email susan.windrum@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.
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THE
POCKETS GUIDE FROM ITALY WITH LOVE WHAT LIES BENEATH: CHOOSING THE RIGHT UNDERWEAR
YOUR TICKET TO RIDE
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Most true car enthusiasts are likely familiar with “My Ride,” the Wall Street Journal column by longtime automotive journalist A.J. Baime. Well, rev your engines, because Baime has turned his popular column into a book, which, like his weekly posts, is a mustread for any true car aficionado. In 100 Dream Cars: The Best Of My Ride (Rizzoli, $45), Baime highlights 100 of the most impressive wheels (including motorcycles) featured in “My Ride,” each with a descriptive profile of the vehicle, its technical specs and a poignant story about the relationship between car and driver. From a fast ’62 Lamborghini to a classic ’37 Caddy V-16 or the ultra-cool Tesla Model X, this curated collection is enough to make any gearhead googly-eyed.
FALL/WINTER 2019
As far as fashion goes, undergarments may be the last item you think about even though they’re the first thing you put on each morning. But as with other sartorial matters, choosing the perfect underwear is key to looking and feeling your best. Here’s the lowdown on the different underwear options and what to wear down there. Boxers are characterized by their open fly and mid-thigh length. They offer lots of breathability, coverage and comfort, but don’t offer much (or, well, anything) by way of support. Opt for boxers if you’re not a skinny jeans type of dude, as the fabric will most likely bunch up. Briefs, on the other hand, are best for skinnypants wearers and offer more support than their boxer counterparts. They also feature a Y-front fly, and are a good bet if you’re thicker in the thigh area. Boxer briefs, of course, are a hybrid of the two, featuring the shape of a boxer but a closer fit like briefs. Many guys prefer these when they’re working out or being otherwise active, as boxer briefs give coverage and support and don’t bunch or chafe. A newer style we’ve been seeing as of late? Trunks, which sit lower on the hips, are shorter in the leg than boxers and cut across mid-thigh. Get a pair or two of these if you’ve got skinny stems or wear tucked-in shirts. A few other quick tips to keep in mind: Replace your underwear once a year—anything with visible stains or holes has got to go. Wash new unmentionables on a gentle cycle to maintain their longevity and get some mesh pairs, rather than cotton or jersey, if you tend to, uh, sweat a lot. As for how many pairs you should own, experts say about 20 is the sweet spot. Stop by Pockets, where we can help you supplement or overhaul your underwear wardrobe—we have comfortable and stylish options from brands like Saxx that we’re sure you’ll love.
Casual, cool and quintessentially Italian. Those are but some of the adjectives we’d use to describe Massimo Alba menswear. Alba began designing clothes in the mid ’80s before founding his eponymous brand in 2006, which over the past decade plus has become known for its use of luxe fabrics. Each of Massimo Alba’s collections are comprised of classic wardrobe staples, handcrafted in Italy with only the most luxurious fabrics and chemical-free dyes. Think cashmere sweaters, cozy knits, tweed jackets and other must-have items that help define a well-dressed gentleman’s fall/winter wardrobe. We’re thrilled to introduce this sophisticated brand to Pockets this season.
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THE POCKETS GUIDE THE A–Z LIST At Pockets you’ll find more than three dozen designer brands under one roof! See if you don’t find your favorites in the list below. GET MOORER Then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love. FROM YOUR COAT
Stylish men in Dallas now have even more outerwear options since we’ve added Moorer to Pockets’ shelves. The Verona, Italy-based brand, which began in 2006, prides itself on its luxury jackets that are as practical as they are refined. Raincoat or puffer jacket, wool or down, over jeans or a suit, Moorer jackets are for the man who wants to look elegant while protecting himself from the elements. High-quality fabrics and impeccable attention to detail are paramount for Moorer, and its jackets feature well-laid-out pockets to hold all the necessities and/or hidden hoods so you’re prepared for anything. You need more than just one type of coat during our temperamental Texas winters, so pay us a visit this season to see what Moorer has in store.
ANDERSON’S BELTS ANDREA VENTURA ANDREA ZORI BARBA NAPOLI BELSTAFF BELVEST BIGI TIES BOGLIOLI BRAX CANALI CAPITA DI BIANCO DOLCEPUNTA TIES ELEVENTY EMANUEL BERG ETON FABER-CASTELL FEDELI FINAMORE FIORINI GABO GFORE GIANNETTO PORTOFINO GRAN SASSO GRAVATI HAMILTON SHIRTS HERNO HILTL INCOTEX INIS MEÁIN JACOB COHEN J BRAND LARDINI LUCIANO BARBERA MASON’S
MASSIMO ALBA MAURIZIO BALDASSARI MAURO BLASI MAZZARELLI MOORE & GILES MOORER ON SHOES ORCIANI PAIGE PESCAROLO PETER MILLAR COLLECTION PHILIPPE MODEL PRESIDENT’S PT01/PT05 RAG & BONE RHONE RING JACKET SALT OPTICS SAMUELSOHN SIMMONOT-GODARD STENSTRÖMS TINTORIA MATTEI TROUBADOUR WATERVILLE W. KLEINBERG WINGS + HORNS ZANELLA
ELEVENTY
WARM UP TO A HOT TODDY
Everyone loves a mojito or Aperol spritz, but those drinks are so summer. Fall/winter is back in fashion, and ’tis the season for the hot toddy. Whether you’re in the mood for a nightcap or a cocktail to sip while cozying up to a fire, this drink will warm the body and soothe the heart. Never had one? Here’s an easy-to-follow, surefire recipe from The Bourbon Bible (Mitchell Beazley, $20), a collection of recipes curated by Eric Zandona, a spirits specialist at the American Distilling Institute. Cheers! Ingredients n 2 oz. bourbon n 1½ fl. oz. lemon juice, freshly squeezed n 4 fl. oz. hot water n 1 tsp. honey n 1 lemon wedge, for garnish
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ADDING CLASS TO CASUALWEAR
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Until now, casual attire and beachwear have had bad reps. Too sloppy, too “frat house.” Faherty Brand has changed all that. Started by two brothers who revel in the outdoors, Faherty Brand brings style and class to casualwear. Its fall collection includes cardigans and other chilly-weather garments, perfect for watching a sunset on the boardwalk, a bonfire at the beach or just about any relaxing weekend event. Try one on here and you’ll notice the difference in their fabrics: They’re soft and cozy. Ask your Pockets sales associate about Faherty Brand and see what classy, comfortable and casual look and feel like.
n 1 cinnamon stick, for garnish Directions n Add all the ingredients to a mug, coffee cup or glass cup with a handle and stir to dissolve the honey. n Garnish with a lemon wedge and cinnamon stick, if desired.
A U T U M N | W I N T E R C O L L E C T I O N 2 019
| POCKETS MENSWEAR
Hang loose with these cold weather must-haves that keep your style in the loop.
LEARN THE ROPES
ESSENTIALS
8 Hoodie by Gimo’s.
Clockwise from top left: light blue and red plaid shirts by Giannetto Portofino, lavender plaid shirt by Barba, dark blue shirt by Finamore; dark wash jeans by PT05, blue jeans by Marco Pescarolo, black jeans by Jacob Cohen; two-toned sweater and blue sweater by Eleventy, gray sweater by Gran Sasso; coat by Corneliani, scarf by Eton.
ESSENTIALS
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Sportcoats by Corneliani.
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ESSENTIALS
Clockwise from top left: shirts by Massimo Alba; assorted socks by Falke, Marcoliani and Pantherella; bracelets by Pig & Hen, mini wallets by Pockets; alligator belts by Simonnot-Godard; assorted pocket squares by Eton, Eleventy and Edward Armah.
GIFT GUIDE | POCKETS MENSWEAR
Looking for the perfect present for a birthday or holiday? Pick up these sartorial staples and say it with style.
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ESSENTIALS
STEP BY STEP | POCKETS MENSWEAR
Leather and suede. Chestnut and chocolate. Chelsea and chukka. We get such a kick out of these shoes, you’ll want to take them all.
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From top: leather slip-on loafer by Andrea Ventura, maroon sneaker by Andrea Zori, suede lace-up brogue and leather penny by Di Bianco, suede chukka by Gravati, gray sneaker by Eleventy.
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| POCKETS MENSWEAR
THE LEADING MAN
Like a Rock One-time third-generation pro wrestler Dwayne Johnson has become a firmly established—and nattily dressed—screen star. By Daria Meoli
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Jungle and Skyscraper as well as three of The Fast and the Furious films. In 2015, Johnson premiered as the lead (and executive producer) in the HBO series Ballers. In the smash hit, Johnson plays a retired NFL player who becomes a financial planner for professional athletes. During his stint on that show, it wasn’t just Johnson’s acting that got audiences and critics talking; it was also his slick sense of style on and off the small screen. A far cry from the black briefs he wore as a WWE wrestling champ, Johnson’s sartorial choices now befit his current status as a Hollywood A-lister and a bit of a fashion champ. While slim, sinewy celebs can perhaps adopt any trend and look good, Johnson’s big build isn’t a natural for strutting in high-fashion duds—the actor must make style choices that accentuate and flatter his physique. Rather than dress his large body in even larger clothes, Johnson dons threads by Isaia and other Italian brands that demonstrate how an athletically built guy can look smashing in European tailoring. In the pages of fashion magazines such as GQ and Esquire and the posts of authoritative menswear bloggers, style watchers tout Johnson as the gold standard for how big men can make a big, but far from ponderous, impression in really cool clothes. Classic cuts rather than slim fits are the basis for Johnson’s wardrobe. As with any buff dude, alterations and custom-tailored pieces are essential to help him look his best. Johnson’s suiting is crafted to create breathing room under his arms
and around his shoulders to keep sportcoats from looking like straitjackets. Padding in the shoulders is kept to a minimum. Johnson tends to favor a tieless, open-neck look that complements his broad neck. His pants often are tailored with a straight leg and a slight taper to accommodate his muscular thighs. Off-screen and off the red carpet, the California native rocks T-shirts with a tightly fitted sleeve that hits mid-bicep, but also has more room in the torso and abs. This keeps the star looking casual without necessarily appearing gymbound. Biker jackets are badass, but the asymmetrical zipper and tapered waist can appear cartoonish on men who have some meat on their bones. Johnson has been photographed in a leather racer jacket, a version of the tough biker look that befits his beefcake frame. Now 47 and the father of three daughters, Johnson continues to make Hollywood headlines. In the coming year, he will appear in another installment of Fast and Furious, a sequel to Jumanji and the fifth season of Ballers. As he navigates red carpets and the late-night circuit to promote all of this new work, this officially recognized icon seems certain to keep fashion-minded fans impressed, both on and off screen. As for Johnson’s secret, you wouldn’t suspect that such simple things as humility and authenticity would be part of it—but just maybe they are. “You are the reason I’m getting this,” he told the viewing audience at home during his MTV acceptance remarks. “I’ve learned the most powerful thing we can be is ourselves.”
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Wrestler-turned-box-office-champ Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson has become a fashion star in his own right, making both custom suits from Isaia and casualwear from Gucci look stylish on his 6-4 frame. Johnson has the sartorial confidence to wear just about anything, whether it be a plaid suit or a fitted knit sweater.
FALL/WINTER 2019
ith one powerfully arched eyebrow, Dwayne Johnson could command an audience of thousands of rowdy wrestling fans. Today, his megawatt smile and formidable comedic timing draw big box-office ticket sales. Johnson has done what few other professional wrestlers have been able to do (OK, there’s John Cena): parlay a role in the ring into a successful acting career. Long known to World Wrestling Entertainment fans as “The Rock,” Johnson began professional wrestling after a football career was cut short by injuries. Wrestling is in his DNA. His original moniker, Rocky Maivia, was a tribute to two other pro grapplers in his family—his father, Rocky Johnson, and his maternal grandfather, Peter Maivia. By 1998, when he shortened his stage name to The Rock, his popularity was exploding. “When I first got to Hollywood, Hollywood didn’t know what the hell to do with me…a half-black, half-Samoan, 6-foot-4, 275-pound pro wrestler,” Johnson recalled, while accepting the Icon Generation Award at the 2019 MTV Movie and TV Awards. Soon Tinseltown wised up. When The Rock hosted Saturday Night Live in 2000, the world got to experience his charisma, and his performance earned him fans outside the WWE world. His first movie acting credit was as the Scorpion King in The Mummy Returns in 2000. His character was so popular that in 2002 it spawned an eponymous sequel. Johnson went on to become one of the country’s highest-paid actors, appearing in the movies Get Smart, Tooth Fairy, Moana, The Other Guys, G.I. Joe: Retaliation, Jumanji: Welcome to the
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FERRARI’S HOTTEST
F8 Tributo, the Italian brand’s new flagship, is a blend of its greatest hits and today’s chart-topping tech. By Darius amos
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As if we needed another reason to sing the praises of Ferrari, the iconic Italian carmaker has rolled out yet another head turner. Gone from its lineup of speed demons is the 488, replaced triumphantly with the F8 Tributo. It’s easily the new flagship for the legendary brand, whose lineage includes some of history’s most recognizable and quintessential sportscars. (The Testarossa and 308 GTS come to mind.) And it pays tribute to many of its Ferrari ancestors, borrowing design elements from the F40 and the Pista. Performance, however, is all its own. The Tributo is muscled by a 710-horsepower V-8, the highest output ever for a Ferrari equipped with that engine size. Engineers say it can reach a top speed of 211 miles per hour and finish a 0-to-62 dash in 2.9 seconds, two stats aided by top-of-class aerodynamics. The Tributo, which has an estimated price tag of $350,000, has sexy curves, like many Ferrari models and unlike the aggressive lines found on competitors like the Lamborghini Huracán and McLaren 720S. Though styling has always been the company’s forte, Ferrari has never needed sex to sell.
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One of the Tributo’s front-end features is the air intake system. Left and right vents provide cooling for the brakes and wheel arches, which naturally heat when drivers have the need for speed.
Boosting the car’s aerodynamics begins front and center. The S-Duct was specially designed to expel high pressure flow from the central bumper by deflecting it upward through the hood bonnet. Highway driving has never been this fun (or fast).
A 7-inch touchscreen is mounted in front of the passenger, giving the co-pilot a clear view of the car’s vitals and command of the infotainment system, climate controls and more. Drivers, after all, can’t have all the fun.
Twin LED displays flank a central tachometer on the driver’s instrumentation cluster. The screens show everything from the car’s gear selection to satellite radio stations so the driver’s head (and racecar focus) rarely has to shift.
While you can select a variety of wheels, the optional starburst design is an aggressive twist on the classic five-spoke rim. The focal point of the wheel, of course, is Ferrari’s prancing horse on a field of yellow.
You can not only feel the power of the Tributo’s 710-horsepower engine, but also see it in action (unless you’re driving, of course). Ferrari’s engine-underglass bodywork offers a full view of the midmounted V-8.
Maybe you’d like to forget 1980s fashion, but the Tributo’s louvered rear window (a throwback to Ferrari’s legendary F40 of the late ’80s and early ’90s) is a style from that bygone era that Ferrari brings back with pride.
Rearview highlights include the return of Ferrari’s twin tail light cluster—a throwback to the brand’s old 308 models—and a lightweight carbon-fiber spoiler that doesn’t add many pounds but still lowers the car’s center of gravity.
FALL/WINTER 2019
Ferrari debuts its new steering wheel in the Tributo. The design features a flat bottom for added comfort and convenience and more on-wheel controls such as a push-button start and paddle shifters. Steering-column stalks are clearly things of the past.
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What a comeback! | POCKETS MENSWEAR
Some hotels rest on their laurels, but not these four. They’ve remade themselves—with exciting results.
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We admit it: It can be fun to visit an old dowager of a hotel, one whose genteel worn carpets whisper that it’s still trading on a reputation from decades ago. But how much more exciting to stay at an old place that has made itself dramatically new, so that a location full of great yesterdays—and great scenery—can also offer the ultimate hospitality of today. When we say the famous hotels on the following pages have recently been renovated, we don’t mean a repainted lobby here and a new sprinkler system there. We mean they’ve been stripped bare, reimagined, reconfigured, redesigned and studded with state-of-theart amenities to more than delight the luxury traveler with the most demanding 2020 foresight. Depending on what continent you’re headed to, might one of them be on your itinerary soon? CONTINUED...
FALL/WINTER 2019
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BELMOND CAP JULUCA, Anguilla, Caribbean
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Since it opened in 1988, this hotel, a cluster of Greco-Moorish-style villas, has been classed among the top upscale accommodations on this popular Caribbean island. A-listers such as Denzel Washington and Liam Neeson have been among its loyalists, booking their favorite villas year after year. But in 2017, when the hotel was acquired by luxury leisure company Belmond, it was long overdue for an update, especially after Hurricane Irma destroyed everything at the resort except a few villas. So in late 2018, the establishment reopened as the Belmond Cap Juluca, with two new restaurants, revamped guest accommodations, an upscale spa and a whole new aesthetic inspired by Moroccan design and architecture. Change is apparent with one’s first steps into the indoor/outdoor lobby, as crisp white linens, wicker chairs and an eye-catching chandelier replace the former Arabian-style décor. Guest rooms and suites boast handmade tiles underfoot, sprawling bathroom suites and unique accents that show immaculate attention to detail, such as tassels hung on the doors instead of donot-disturb signs. The cuisine here makes hunger a blessing—as an excuse to indulge. Grab an Italian meal on the waterfront at the new Cip’s by Cipriani, or savor Anguilla-European fusion at the revamped Pimms restaurant. What remains largely unchanged post-reno is the unparalleled staff attention—your stay comes with 24-hour butler service, with one staff member for every two guests. INSIDER’S TIP: Don’t leave this resort without at least one ride in the Belmond Buggy, a leather-seated, air-conditioned joy-ride vehicle reminiscent of Scooby-Doo’s Mystery Machine. RATES: Rooms begin at $675 a night.
THE OBEROI, New Delhi, India
FALL/WINTER 2019
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It’s appropriate that the capital of India is home to what was once known as the nation’s fanciest hotel; now it’s new and improved after 50 years in business. Shortly after its half-century birthday, management of the iconic Oberoi, New Delhi went through a mid-life crisis of sorts, feeling that the hotel was outdated, and hoping to reinvent it with a more modern, relevant vibe that still spoke to its upscale clientele. Just shy of two years after construction began in 2016, Oberoi, New Delhi reopened, revealing a sleek, $100 million refurbishment inspired by the late Sir Edwin Lutyens’ New Delhi architecture. And what a reveal it’s been. All 220 guest rooms including 34 suites have been enlarged and outfitted with luxury amenities such as Italian marble bathrooms, teak floors and large picture windows. Natural light now hits just about everywhere, and 40 air filters were installed throughout the hotel to provide the cleanest, freshest, healthiest air in this heavily polluted city. Updated dining and imbibing options were added to the offerings too; The Oberoi hired two Michelin-starred chefs to run Omya and Baoshuan, the hotel’s Indian and Chinese eateries, respectively, and introduced the new rooftop bar Cirrus 9, where guests can sip mixed drinks while looking out on Humayun’s Tomb, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, on one side and the Delhi Golf Course, India’s oldest, on the other. A hotel’s interior may change for the better, but the view outside? Nobody’s going to mess with perfection. INSIDER’S TIP: If you’re hankering for a smoke, head over to The Club Bar and Cigar Lounge, the latter of which is attached to The Oberoi, New Delhi’s bar and offers personal cigar lockers (and yes, the air purification thing applies here too). RATES: Summer prices start at $220 a night; winter stays go for around $290.
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THE FIFE ARMS, Braemar, Scotland
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Credited with “Scotland’s most exciting hotel opening of 2019” by Conde Nast Traveler, The Fife Arms has a lot of hype to live up to. The 19th-century hunting lodge with a many-gabled Victorian façade has always been architecturally special, befitting a facility 15 miles down the road from the royals’ Balmoral Castle. But for years it was underwhelming—a Financial Times writer recalled a sign warning of a leaky ceiling, next to which, sure enough, “a plastic bucket collected the rhythmic drops of water.” Well, forget all that! In December 2014, A-list art dealers Iwan and Manuela Wirth purchased the property, then closed it for four years of renovations, eventually opening its doors in late 2018 to rave reviews. Located in Braemar, a village in Aberdeenshire, Scotland, The Fife Arms underwent the overhaul of all overhauls; the renovation involved transforming 80 guest rooms into 46 more spacious ones and adding a spa, a garden and a bar, among other luxury amenities. But perhaps the biggest undertaking was imbuing artful touches into every room, including paintings by Pablo Picasso, Lucian Freud and Queen Victoria. Antique furnishings and period wallpaper adorn the guest suites, and if you wander into a particular ill-lit corner you’ll stumble upon Victoria herself—in wax. Fife Arms’ eating establishments are Scotland through-and-through as well, from its neighborhood bar The Flying Stag to The Clunie Dining Room and the art deco bar Elsa’s, inspired by fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, a frequent visitor to Braemer. INSIDER’S TIP: This hotel is dog-friendly; the Wirths have blocked off several rooms for guests to stay in with their furry friends. RATES: Rooms start at $325 per night.
HOTEL LUTETIA, Paris, France
FALL/WINTER 2019
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Making over a century-old Art Deco hotel in the heart of Paris’ Saint Germain neighborhood is quite an undertaking. That’s especially true when it’s the iconic Left Bank hostelry where Picasso lived for a short while in the 1930s, where author James Joyce allegedly wrote a portion of Ulysses, where the rooms housed Nazi officers during World War II. But architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte was up to the challenge, undertaking a four-year, $234 million renovation on Hotel Lutetia—the first renovation in its 100-year history—that concluded in 2018 and maintains the spirit of the original Lutetia while appealing to the 21st century traveler. Just what was involved in such a venture? Turning 233 pre-existing guest rooms into 184 larger ones, building a new courtyard, installing custom-built 19th century-style furniture and adding natural light to windowed bathrooms and common areas, among other things. The food and drink options have been improved upon too, with seafood expert and three-Michelin-starred chef Gérald Passédat at the helm of Brasserie Lutetia. Guests and locals can also enjoy a memorable meal at Le Saint-Germain Restaurant or the more casual L’Orangerie, or grab a creatively mixed cocktail at Bar Aristide or Bar Josephine, the latter named for French starlet Josephine Baker, who frequented the original bar. INSIDER’S TIP: Complete your experience at Lutetia by booking a treatment or taking a fitness class at the brand-new Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Centre. A 55-foot swimming pool drenched in natural light and an infinity-edge hot tub are among this luxurious spa’s many standout features. RATES: Stays begin at about $985 per night.
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fall into place Headed to the office or a weekend trip? Pockets has all the looks you need— wherever you’re headed this season.
| POCKETS MENSWEAR
Photography by Daniel Springston
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Sportcoat by Mauro Blasi, sweater by Gran Sasso, shirt by Emanuel Berg, tie by Canali, pocket square by Edward Armah, trousers by PT01.
FALL/WINTER 2019
Left, suit by Boglioli, shirt by Emanuel Berg, tie by Eton, pocket square by Edward Armah, belt by Orciani, shoes by Gravati. Right, jacket by Boglioli, sweater by Eleventy, shirt by Emanuel Berg, pocket square by Edward Armah, jeans by Marco Pescarolo, boots by Gravati, backpack by Troubadour.
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Clockwise from top left, sportcoat and vest by Eleventy, shirt and pocket square by Eton, pants by J Brand, belt by Orciani, sneakers by Andrea Zori; jacket by Maurizio Baldassari, shirt by Barba, knit sweater by Rag & Bone, corduroys by Mason’s, sneakers by DiBianco; overcoat and vest by Eleventy, floral shirt by Eton, pants by J Brand, sneakers by Andrea Zori; sportcoat and pocket square by Luciano Barbera, vest and shirt by Maurizio Baldassari, pants by PT01, boots by Capita.
Wool sweater and shirt by Massimo Alba, jeans by Jacob Cohen.
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Left, suit and shirt by Canali, tie by Eton, pocket square by Eleventy, belt by Orciani, shoes by Di Bianco. Right, sportcoat by Canali, shirt by Finamore, pocket square by Eton, jeans by Brax, belt by Orciani, boots by Andrea Ventura.
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Sportcoat by Belvest, turtleneck by Gran Sasso, pocket square by Eleventy, pants by PT01, shoes by Gravati.
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Clockwise from top left, hoodie, pants and sneakers by Eleventy, shirt by George Roth; puffer vest by Herno, sweater by Eleventy, jeans by AG, boots by Capita; hoodie and shirt by Barba, pants by Jacob Cohen, sneakers by Andrea Zori; jacket by Gimo’s, sweater by Luciano Barbera, shirt by Xacus, pants by Marco Pescarolo, belt by Orciani, boots by Gravati.
Inset, sweater and shirt by President’s, jeans by Marco Pescarolo; right, puffer jacket by Herno, shirt by President’s, jeans by Marco Pescarolo.
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36 It’s a fact that any man looks good in a tuxedo—as long as it’s the right one, of course.
JACKET SLEEVE LENGTH
JACKET CUT Try a modern fit for a fashion-forward and flattering silhouette. This style is trimmer through the chest and shoulder than a traditional-cut jacket and it’s still black-tie appropriate.
JACKET SHOULDER The same rules for your sportcoats and suit jackets apply: The padding of the tuxedo jacket should not extend beyond the tip of your shoulders. If it does, the garment is too big.
JACKET LAPEL Wear a grosgrain peak lapel for a rich textured feel when you attend a highly formal occasion and a rounded shawl style when you want to soften your look. A notch lapel is versatile but the least formal for a tuxedo.
SHIRT FRONT A smooth bib-front shirt, perhaps in a pique fabric with room for studs, is a classic look. A shirt with no placket and concealed buttons is clean, while a pleated front worn with studs adds textural interest.
SHIRT COLLAR The most popular and best bet for the most formal occasion is the laydown collar. For a more contemporary look, the mandarin collar is a great option.
TUXEDO DETAILS
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FORMAL EDUCATION Co
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SHOES Patent loafers and oxfords are a sure-fire hit for the most formal events. Keep it low key by choosing the styles in suede or polished leather.
PANT LEG LENGTH See your tailor ASAP if your pants are bunching at the ankles (or showing them). Trousers should have half or no break. The half break is standard, showing a slight dent where the hem rests on the top of the shoe. Any larger break will look like you’re wearing your father’s suit.
PANT LEG WIDTH The way the fabric drapes is key: Anything too tight will create wrinkles, while too much material will appear baggy. Find a cut that’s flattering to your waist, thighs and calves.
JACKET LENGTH Most guys can follow these easy guides: Your jacket should cover your backside and, with your arms at your side, the piece should end between your thumb’s knuckle and base. For a more modern fit, ask us how you can go even shorter.
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JACKET SLEEVE LENGTH The jacket sleeve should show a generous amount of the shirt cuff—just enough for others to see your cuff links.
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Consider these head-to-toe tips to find the perfect look for your next special occasion.
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THE MUSE
Precious Stone
Sexy, husky-voiced red-haired Emma, just three decades old, has shown amazing range and conviction as a performer, proving that she’s a gem. By Haley Longman One look at actress Emma Stone and two things stand out: those stunning auburn locks and her large, green puppy-dog eyes. Hear her speak and you’ll instantly be charmed by her distinctively husky voice. Then watch her grace the red carpet and it becomes obvious that Stone’s sense of style is fully worthy of those physical gifts. The star, whose legal first name is Emily, grew up in Scottsdale, Arizona, with a homemaker mom and a dad who was CEO of a general-contracting company. She’s spoken in many interviews of the panic attacks she suffered as a child, and, though therapy helped, her real salvation was performing in local theater. “My mom always says that I was born with my nerves outside of my body,” she told Elle magazine. “But I’m lucky for the anxiety, because it also makes me high-energy.” And highly persuasive, perhaps? A PowerPoint presentation titled “Project Hollywood” convinced her parents to let her drop out of high school and pursue acting full-time in Los Angeles, where Emily became Emma. (An Emily Stone was already registered with the Screen Actors Guild.) But, like many young L.A.-bound whippersnappers, she faced years of rejection with failed TV pilots (such as on the competitive reality show In Search of the New Partridge Family) and not-so-great auditions (she lost out to Hayden Panettiere for the lead role in NBC’s Heroes). By 2007, however, the 19-year-old had booked what became her big break: a supporting role as Jonah Hill’s love interest in the acclaimed coming-of-age comedy Superbad. The job offers began piling up; the budding starlet was cast in her first leading role in 2010’s teen comedy Easy A; she played a journalist in 2011’s Oscar-nominated The Help and was Ryan Gosling’s romantic partner for the first of three times so far in Crazy, Stupid Love that same year. She soon became Andrew Garfield’s on-screen girlfriend in The Amazing SpiderMan (and in real life too) along with its 2014 sequel before racking up a stunning three Academy Award nominations in four years: She was a contender for Best Supporting Actress for Birdman (2015) and for The Favourite (2018) and took home the statuette—for Best Actress this time—for 2016’s La La Land. In between the latter two was also
the critically overlooked Battle of the Sexes, for which Stone gained 15 pounds of muscle to accurately portray tennis champ Billie Jean King. “Emma’s very modern, but there’s a timelessness to her, too,” La La Land writer and director Damien Chazelle has said, explaining why he cast the doe-eyed talent in her Oscar-winning role of Mia, an aspiring actress trying to make it in the City of Angels. (Her jazzpianist beau Sebastian was played by Gosling.) Chazelle may as well have been talking about her sense of style. Just as Stone’s roles have grown increasingly notable, her sartorial choices have become more and more evolved. Nowadays, the style chameleon goes against the grain with unexpected looks on the red carpet, such as a show-stopping silk Louis Vuitton pantsuit or an elegant Chanel haute couture dress over ankle-length pants. But she is every bit as comfortable in a simple slip dress by Stella McCartney, or on the streets of New York in Madewell jeans and a tee. Her style has depth, much like her characters, and her bold fashion statements are representative of her all-around versatility. Stone’s prowess on-screen and on the carpet—she even proved her theater chops with a stint in Cabaret on Broadway—is likely what snagged her her next big gig: Last year she became one of Louis Vuitton’s ambassadors and the star of its fall/winter 2018 handbag campaign. Endorsements weren’t new to her, though, as Stone was also the face of Revlon for a few years, joining with her mother, a breast-cancer survivor, to promote awareness of the disease. “It’s true designers love her,” says Petra Flannery, her stylist for more than a decade. “But also Emma appreciates fashion from an artist’s point of view. Style is innate. It’s in her bones.” Next up professionally for this self-deprecating but determined Alister are two film sequels; to the decade-old action flick Zombieland and the animated blockbuster The Croods. She’ll extend her range even more in 2020, playing a villain for the first time as the title character Cruella in Disney’s live-action remake of 101 Dalmatians. One glance at Stone’s IMDb profile and it’s clear that her immediate professional future is well planned out. Beyond that, her high energy and great gifts promise decades of achievement to come.
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Emma Stone has steadily ascended to the top of both the fashion world and the box office since her big break over a decade ago, often making the best dressed lists and starring as a range of diversified characters in blockbuster after blockbuster.
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THE SPORTING LIFE
the french connection If you make plans to ski at Alpe d’Huez in France this winter, there’s every chance that you’ll be one of the few Yanks on the slopes. Maybe the only one. Beyond the French who flock here from Paris and the provinces, the resort is also beloved by Brits. Together they set the tone of the resort, which manages to be both friendly and chic, appealing to families and to youthful partiers. The resort flies under the radar for most Americans, even though it was named Europe’s Best Ski Resort 2019 by European Best Destinations, the second time it’s been singled out. If you recognize the name Alpe d’Huez at all, it’s likely because it offers one of the toughest and most challenging climbing days during the annual Tour de France race in July. You come to Alpe d’Huez not for a stuffy, jet-set party scene like the one in Courchevel or for hardcore skiing as they do in Les Arcs, but for the terrific and varied skiing and the quietly chic accommodations, many of which are family-friendly. Getting here is easy as well, since it’s about a 90-minute drive south of Grenoble. I came to ski the legendary run called Sarenne, which is the single longest ski run in the world, at nearly 10 miles. Personal best aside, what I discovered was that Alpe d’Huez offers much more than mere statistics.
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The skiing
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Part of the Grandes Rousses massif, the village is located at 6,102 feet, set on a plateau below the mountain and surrounded by other peaks on all sides. It is a very beautifully situated resort, one of the best in the world. The slopes themselves are south-facing, so that long, sunny days are the rule here. For sun-starved Europeans in winter, that is a major attraction, and not all that common in the Alps. There’s a reason that the French call it L’Ile du Soleil, or Island of the Sun. It’s also one of France’s largest ski resorts, with 155 miles of skiable pistes when you include the neighboring linked resorts. That means plenty of interconnected skiing on the slopes of the neighboring villages of Auris, Villard Reculas, Oz en Oisans and Vaujany. As a skier, you get a sense of setting out on a different
At Alpe d’Huez in the Alps, great skiing matches up with unforgettable scenery, dining and nightlife. By Everett Potter
journey every morning, which is one of the primary reasons I love to ski in Europe. Alpe d’Huez is one of those rare resorts that offer a wide variety of skiing terrain at all levels as well. There are steeps—the longest vertical drop in the world at over 6,000 feet is here—but there is also an abundance of blue and green runs, with miles of moderately vertical, well-groomed slopes that are perfect for intermediates who want to feel like heroes on skis. All said, it’s pretty much a perfect destination for families or for couples and friends of different skiing abilities. My goal was to tackle the Sarenne run, which goes off from the summit of the Pic Blanc glacier. I reached it by the two-stage DMC gondola from the resort, the Télépherique des Grandes Rousses, followed by a ride in a cable car. Sarenne, at 9.9 miles, is the longest black run in the Alps. There were some tough bits, but much of it turned out to be surprisingly forgiving. What it really demands of you is endurance. Skiing nearly 10 miles is a real workout, and I made my fair share of stops on the way down to rest my burning thighs. The next day, my friends went back up the mountain for another challenge. Le Tunnel is a black run from the summit that requires that you ski through a corridor of rock and onto an icy mogul field. It can be dangerous enough that falling is a particularly bad idea. I had already made up my mind to leave them to the challenge and headed down some blue slopes until we met up for lunch. The slopeside lunch is a ritual in Europe and nowhere more than in France. You’re spoiled with choices at Alpe d’Huez. Our favorite was Chez Passoud, just above the village of Oz, where charcuterie was followed by tartiflette, a fondue made with the local Reblochon cheese. We also liked Chalet du Lac Besson, where lamb and seafood grilled over an open fire were delicious. Out of the way but also delicious was the classic Savoie fare at L’Altiport. For those who still have energy to burn after a morning on the pistes and a long lunch, La Folie Douce is famed for its views and for encouraging dancing on the tables. Many guests seem to oblige. It should be visited at least once during your stay. My
verdict: the champagne was great, the energy unbelievable, the dancing best left to agile 20-somethings.
The village Alpe d’Huez’s resort village is split into quartiers. The Viel Alpe quartier, also known as the Old Town, is best for nightlife. The chic-est shopping is on Avenue des Jeux. From an architectural standpoint, it’s a bit of a hodgepodge of chalet-style buildings and modern construction. That said, those mountain views, the high-season energy on the streets and that reliable sun together make the village a welcoming place. Our favorite dinner was at Au Montagnard, a classic in town with wood beams and lace curtains, where I enjoyed steak cooked on a hot stone one night and raclette the next. A slightly fancier meal was on offer at Le Cremaillere, which was also housed in a charming chalet building, and they had French mountain fare such as onion soup and Côte du Boeuf. Nighttime? If you intend to stay out until 2 a.m., then the New Sphere, Freeride Café and Underground Bar are where to head, as well as the tried and true Smithy’s Tavern. Since my idea of late night after a day of Alpine skiing is 9:30 p.m., I had a quick cognac. You should plan on arriving at least two hours later, just when they start getting lively.
Daria-I Nor There’s been a lot of buzz about Daria-I Nor, which just opened in December. The sister resort to Hotel Koh-I Nor in Val Thorens and Hotel Taj-I Mah in Arc 2000, Daria-I Nor is a “ski in, ski out” hotel with just 46 rooms, each with a private balcony, faux fur throws and phenomenal views. The darkened lobby has highback chairs and spotlights and feels like a chic urban club. The concept of wellness looms large here. The spa is 8,600 square feet, with the requisite pool, Jacuzzi and a hammam, as well as two saunas and a relaxing indoor pool with a fountain. The dining is on the formal side at L’Améthyste, while Table de Daria has traditional French mountain fare. It’s the most sublime hotel in all of Alpe d’Huez, a property I would gladly check into on a return visit. There’s no question that after my first trip here, I’ll be back.
Opposite page, clockwise from top: Skiing Sarenne takes endurance—at 9.9 miles, it’s the longest black run in the Alps; nightlife at Alpe d’Huez’s resort village includes a bevy of taverns, bars and cafes; guests at the Daria-I Nor hotel can enjoy traditional French mountain fare at Table de Daria; each of the hotel’s 46 guestrooms has a balcony with slopeside panoramas; aircraft and gondola rides offer breath-taking views of the Alps.
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GOURMET
The stew of Mexico
Bowls of tasty posole are like snowflakes—no two are exactly alike. By Donna Rolando
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propelled posole on a journey beyond its homeland to growing popularity in the States, at restaurants in LA, Houston and San Diego, for example—and perhaps soon an eatery near you. Just what is this dish that more and more Americans are putting on their culinary radar? The word originates with Nahuati, the language spoken by the Aztecs of pre-Hispanic Mexico, and may mean hominy (referring to the shelled, dried corn that is the star of this recipe). The large hominy kernels (cacahuazintle) are soaked (usually in water with lime) until they puff up; your taste buds can anticipate a chewy texture that smacks of corn tortilla. Other featured players are generally braised pork (for which chicken can be substituted—or, for a vegetarian dish, beans) and garlic. So get your stockpot or track down a restaurant that serves posole, and discover why it’s becoming so popular in
the U.S. Chefs love how this recipe, with its humble foundation, is just right for customization. And talk about variety! Among its many versions, posole comes in red, green and white—the colors of the Mexican flag. You won’t find any red or green salsas in the white version, while green can include tomatillo, cilantros or even jalapeños, and red relies more heavily on chiles like ancho. Then there’s the wide choice of toppings—everything from finely chopped onions, lettuce and radishes to avocado and lime—teamed up with tasty tostadas and crema. It should perhaps be mentioned that the corn so basic to this stew had sacred significance to the Aztecs, who believed the gods made humans out of corn-meal dough. But there’s no need to dig that deep to discover why this is a cherished taste sensation. Feel free to experiment! After all, that’s what posole is all about.
While meat, peppers and other spices may vary, every bowl of posole is made with hominy—shelled, dried corn.
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ike treasured heirlooms handed down through generations, some recipes are prized for their constancy; chefs— even the home variety—follow them to the letter as though any change might break the culinary spell. (What would Grandma say?) But others are born with a wild streak, just begging for creativity. Posole, Mexico’s national stew (or is it more of a soup?), is the second kind—simple, yet so appetizing it’s a favorite on special occasions such as New Year’s and Christmas. (Don’t be surprised, though, to see it pop up on ordinary days as well, because why wait?) Indeed, this robust recipe originating from native Mexican tribes has the right stuff to warm up body and soul in the winter and still be a hit in the summer sunshine—it knows no bounds. It’s that anything-goes spirit—no two bowls are ever the same—that has
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GRAPE
The Verdicchio we didn’t know
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Once typecast as plebeian and fish-friendly, this varietal now shows unsuspected depth and versatility. By Josh Sens
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Just as it’s unwise to judge a book by its cover, so is it unfair to judge a wine by its bottle. Consider the verdict on Verdicchio. For decades in the United States, the light, bright Italian white was widely associated with the glass container it frequently arrived in: a green, fish-shaped bottle, replete with fins and scales, a cork implanted in its gaping mouth. The bottle was unmistakable, and it inspired assumptions. Consumers came to expect a pale-colored wine, high in acidity but low in nuance, with little about it that would stand in the way of the seafood with which it was most often served. As a general rule, their assumptions weren’t wrong. Like wicker-bottle chianti, fishbottle Verdicchio was deemed an emblematic old-world-style table wine—inexpensive, easy-drinking, uncomplex. Not that there was anything wrong with that. But it also wasn’t all that Verdicchio could be. “We knew that Verdicchio was capable of being so much more,” says Gianluca Garofoli of Garofoli winery in Italy. “But it had reached the point where the bottle was more famous than the wine inside.” As a fifth-generation vintner in Le Marche (pronounced luh marKAY)—the eastern Italian region,
near the Adriatic Sea, that doubles as ground zero for Verdicchio production—Garofoli understood the roots of the varietal’s reputation. The name stems from “verde,” the Italian word for green, and true to its billing, most of the Verdicchio on the export market was bottled and consumed while it was young and green. It was wine for the people—not wine for sophisticates. Never was Verdicchio allowed to age. The Garofoli family envisioned something else. Verdicchio, they realized, was a varietal of vast, untapped potential. Its fruit could ripen quickly and give rise to subtle, structured wines that could age beautifully in the barrel and the bottle. Verdicchio could be much more than its dated stereotype— so long as you treated it respectfully. In pursuit of their goal, the Garofolis began fine-tuning their approach. They modified their farming practices, pruning vineyards to reduce yields and selecting only the choicest clones. At the same time, they began to experiment with aging techniques. In 1981, the family broke starkly with convention, becoming the first major Verdicchio producer to abandon the green, fish-shaped amphora in favor of a Bordeaux-style bottle—a new look for a wine that was not the same-old Verdicchio. In 1986, the Garofolis
released their first Verdicchio “classico,” a lovely demonstration of the grape’s great promise. But the bigger watershed came in 1991, when the family unveiled Podium, an old-vine Verdicchio that was striking from the get-go but all the more remarkable as it matured. “This is a Verdicchio that can age 10, 12, 15 years or even more,” Garofoli says. “It demonstrates how flexibile and sophisticated the varietal really is. We think of it as something like the Italian Chablis.” In the years since, the Garofolis’ influence has rippled across the Marche, part of a growing wave that has helped elevate the profile of the region’s signature grape. The results are further evident in the work of such producers as Umani Ronchi and Villa Bucci, whose beautiful releases are a celebration of the varietal’s diverse strengths. Showcasing the bright, refreshing notes that have long made Verdicchio foodfriendly, they are also wines of elegant body and intriguing flavor that grow only more compelling over time. “The truth is, Verdicchio can be many things,” Garofoli says. “It’s still a wonderful table wine, good for everyday drinking. But it’s a lot more than the wine you might think you know, poured from a bottle shaped like a fish.”
Opposite page, clockwise from top: The Marche region in eastern Italy has produced Verdicchio wine grapes for centuries; producers like Villa Bucci celebrate Verdicchio’s strengths, including an elegant body and intriguing flavor; the Garofolis of the Garofoli winery: Gianfranco, Carlo, Beatrice, Gianluca and Caterina; most of the Verdicchio on the market was bottled when the grape was young and green; Umani Ronchi’s CaSal di Serra pairs well with seafood; by pruning vineyards and reducing the number of grapes, vintners like the Garofolis can select the best of the harvest.
TASTING NOTES Garofoli 2016 Podium Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, $26 A lush, golden color, with honeyed notes that give way to refreshing hints of ripe stone fruit. It’s delicious with salmon and halibut, but also a worthy pairing with grilled pork or roast chicken. 2016 Umani Ronchi CaSal di Serra Verdicchio di Jesi Classico Superiore, $16 Medium-bodied, with a pleasing texture and sweet notes of cherry and nectarine. Try with fried calamari or garlicky shrimp. Bucci 2016 Verdicchio Classico dei Castelli di Jesi, $23 A full-bodied wine with a straw-yellow hue and perky flavors of apples and bitter almond. Enjoy with a pasta or shellfish risotto. 2016 Montecappone, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Ergo, $62 Smooth, delicate notes of almonds, peaches and apricots. Pair it with rich seafood such as salmon or halibut, but it also marries nicely with a roast pork loin.
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ROOM KEY
‘Charm City’ charmer
Baltimore’s coziest luxe hotel, The Ivy, part of the Relais & Châteaux “family,” feels homey in a way that home itself can’t quite match. By Rita Guarna
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ell friends you’re spending a weekend in Baltimore and they may wonder why you’re visiting the poor cousin of “richer” New York, Philly or D.C. But this historic city is full of delights for the visitor. And if you hang your hat at The Ivy Hotel, you’ll feel like you’re visiting wealthy kin of your own. The only Relais & Châteaux hotel in Maryland, this restored 1890s red-brick brownstone stands proud in the historic Mount Vernon neighborhood and strikes the perfect balance when it comes to service: impeccable, yet discreet. Think of this as a relative’s country “house” in the city. There is no check-in desk. Instead, a driver (yes, we were met and whisked to the hotel) drops you off at the entrance, where we were escorted through a small lower lobby into the elevator and up to the conservatory. There Simon, one of two concierges on call during our stay, greeted us and offered a glass of champagne and a tour of the property. (“Yes, please!”—on both counts.) In the conservatory we were regaled with tales of the place. A beautifully restored piano, for example, belonged to the heirs of the original owners and is often used. From there, we ambled past the mansion bar, where guests are encouraged to pour their own classic cocktails (there are recipe books there too, should you need inspiration), then into the tea room, library and game room. The home—er, hotel—is full of antique furnishings, including an 1880s billiards table, Tiffany glass windows and vintage books in several nooks with oversize armchairs. A beautiful 1930s globe caught my attention, and it was only the promise of high tea that lured me away. Comfy velour couches, roaring fires and floor-to-ceiling
murals invited us to relax. And relax we did. Here it’s easy to revive the endangered art of conversation while munching on finger sandwiches and scones. When I remarked to my companion that no one in the room appeared to be glued to his or her phone, one of the servers nearby smiled and said, “There’s no IT at high tea.” Indeed. Sated, we climbed to the third floor to check out our suite—No. 9. The hotel offers 18 guest quarters: nine suites and nine rooms, ranging from 285 square feet to 985, each with a fireplace, an oversized bathroom and a one-of-a-kind armoire-cum-mini bar, designed by local art students. Our room featured a four-poster bed, a heated limestone floor in the bathroom, double vanities and a giant soaking tub. Everything in the mini bar, including local beers, wine and snacks (Old Bay chips, anyone?) is included in the hotel’s rate. So are afternoon tea, internet, on-demand movies, car service (within city limits) and breakfast. It would have been easy to settle in and simply relax with a good book or two or three, but “Charm City” awaited. And did you know that in the mid19th century this—not Philadelphia, Boston or Chicago—was America’s second-largest city? Given the reputation of Baltimore (“Bawlmer,” if you speak the local dialect) as an important old-time port town, we decided to set sail on a boat tour courtesy of Art’s Cruises. Viewing the Inner Harbor from the waterside was fun, and we caught glimpses of Fort McHenry (where Francis Scott Key penned “The Star-Spangled Banner”), the U.S.S. Constellation and the somewhat cheesy characters aboard a ship flying pirate flags. We opted to skip the National
Aquarium, one of the largest in the U.S., and instead, once back on land, visited the Baltimore Museum of Art. It houses the world’s largest collection of Matisse works in a public museum and a contemporary sculpture garden amid three landscaped acres. Back “home,” we joined a group at a champagne soiree, the champagne paired with its classic 19th century companion: oysters. Executive Chef Mark Levy, a Briton formerly at the helm of the five-star The Point in the Adirondacks, yearned to keep his oysters ice-cold and wanted them passed around like other hors d’oeuvres. One member of his creative team fashioned a leather and steel contraption, and the roaming oyster bar was born, with a young man, Devon, shucking while chatting up guests. Speaking of food, Levy serves up a varied menu for guests and locals alike at Magdalena, the hotel’s 75-seat bistro. Here you’ll find something for everyone: mac-and-cheese fritters for the ironic highbrow, a saddle of Colorado lamb and a caviar service for the hungry masses. There’s a nod to local fare with oysters, crabs (of course), cod and rockfish. We sat outside in a beautiful backyard courtyard, but other options included the wine cellar (the restaurant has an extensive wine and whiskey list), the treasury in the home’s former vault and an upper area with small booths. Unlike dinner, breakfast is a guests-only affair, and it’s grand. Choose a made-to-order omelet or more elaborate eggs Benedict, waffles or the signature lemon soufflé pancakes. (They’re to die for.) With full bellies and promises to return, we bade concierge James a fond farewell as he summoned our driver. If only visiting real family could be like this.
Opposite page, clockwise from top: Suite Seven at The Ivy Hotel includes mirrored closet doors, a living room, two fireplaces and a bathroom with dual vanities, soaking tub and separate shower; original skylights, carved wood wainscoting and stained glass windows highlight the building’s three-story grand staircase; choose any seat in the living room, library or conservatory for afternoon tea; local seafood is abundant at Magdalena, the hotel’s 75-seat restaurant; visitors can enjoy morning coffee and evening cocktails in the inviting courtyard; guests are given concierge services and a personal driver.
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END PAGE
Who Wears the Pants? They’re your legs, so you can decide. Edoardo Fassino of PT Torino just has a few pointers. By Karen Alberg Grossman
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mong the world’s top pants makers, PT Torino is a worldwide favorite, known for its fabulous fit, luxury fabrics (mostly from Italian mills) and directional styling. Founded by Edoardo Fassino’s grandfather as a fabric house, the company switched gears to pants manufacturing in the 1980s, first producing for other companies, then (around 2000) switching to luxury and its own label. As the third generation to lead the company, Fassino confides that he had no choice. “I never even thought about another career,” he admits. “Well, maybe as a kid, like all other Italian boys, I dreamed of being a professional soccer player.” Although pants specialist might sound less exciting, Fassino is proud to run one of the hottest companies in an industry that’s becoming increasingly fashion-focused. “As specialists,” he explains, “we offer an extensive collection of all fits, models, colors and patterns, so we have a good finger on the pulse of fashion. The confusion today is that so many different looks are trending at once, depending on the country. Slim pants are considered fashion in the States but basic in Italy and Japan, where wider, pleated, cropped and high-
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Under chairman Edoardo Fassino, PT Torino offers a wide selection of pants in all fits, models, colors and patterns.
rise models are viewed as more contemporary. But fashion cycles are shorter, trends come back more quickly and guys really need a pants wardrobe to keep up. For example, in Italy, super-skinny has reemerged, pleated is gaining ground and a rocker look (skinny black denim) is back big-time.” Confused? Fassino happily offers his top tips for U.S. shoppers: 1. Make sure the pants you buy are comfortable—this is the most important factor. No matter how much you love a style, color or pattern, if it’s not comfortable, you won’t wear it. 2. Don’t worry so much about trends; choose a model that’s flattering to your body type. For most men, a slim but not tight fit makes for a taller, thinner, younger look. (Super-slim is downtrending in the States.) 3. Pay attention to the length of the trouser, which should just graze the top of the shoe. Most Italians are wearing their pants too short, while Americans wear them too long! 4. Although the look in the U.S. is still clean and slim, be prepared for a shift down the road to looser styles, including pleats, high waists, cropped bottoms, sometimes even wide and dragging on the floor. 5. You can’t go wrong with classic pants in luxury or performance fabrics. But why not try a new active-inspired pant with a drawstring waist and gathered ankle? Or a classic houndstooth in a wool/cashmere blend? Remember, fashion should be both flattering and fun!
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02/07/19 14:50