raleigh SPRING / SUMMER 2017
SPRING FASHIONS MADE-TO-MEASURE
YOUR ULTIMATE STYLE GUIDE
SOUTH AFRICAN PINOTS MCLAREN 570GT GOLF IN IRELAND BLAKE LIVELY
BRITISH INVASION MCLAREN 570GT LINKED IN ON THE EMERALD ISLE SOUTH AFRICAN SPLENDOR PERFECT PINOTS
S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 17
WOMAN OF STYLE BLAKE LIVELY
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MEN’S CLUB
Look your best in these cool new looks
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CONTENTS s/s 2017
FEATURES
DEPARTMENTS
british invasion | 34
Memo | 6
The McLaren 570GT is a high-performance sports car with everyday comfort and drivability.
What’s in store for spring at Raleigh.
The raleigh Guide | 11
In Ted McLaren’s paintings, each automobile is a study of light, shape and color.
The perfect summer drink…Ask Mr. Etiquette…Brax trousers… high-tech umbrellas…new shoe brands at Raleigh…and more.
Sporting Life | 48
The techie | 16
Located at the bottom of the Emerald Isle, Old Head of Kinsale will soar to the top of your favorite golf locales.
You may not need any of these high-tech toys. But you’ll certainly want them!
start your engines | 36
raleigh stories | 53 What makes a visit to Raleigh so unforgettable? Two loyal customers happily share their experiences.
music | 18 Despite what some trolls say, we’re living in a Golden Age of original music. Give a listen to these four performers, and you’ll agree.
Essentials | 20 Stock up on all the season’s best shoes, clutches, ties, jewelry and more. THE MUSE
men’s club
Blake Lively | 26 Whether she’s wearing couture or out in casual wear, this fashionista projects an effortlessly chic vibe.
Look your best in these cool new fashions.
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on the run | 30 This season’s whimsical collection by Isaia is for the man who doesn’t take himself too seriously.
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GRAPE | 56 You can find splendid pinot noirs down south—South Africa, that is.
Room Key | 60 Enjoy creature comforts galore, redesigned public spaces and heavenly Mediterranean cuisine at The Lowell in New York City.
If the suit fits | 62 ON THE COVER:
the bullpen | 64 Advice from the style pros.
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Simon wears a tuxedo by Paul Betenly, dress shirt by Sand and bow tie by Edward Armah.
Take your wardrobe to the next level with Raleigh’s made-to-measure service.
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MEMO
raleigh RALEIGH LIMITED MENSWEAR THE FASHION MALL KEYSTONE AT THE CROSSING 317.844.1148 RALEIGHLIMITED.COM
STORE HOURS MONDAY TO SATURDAY: 10 A.M. TO 8 P.M. SUNDAY: NOON TO 6 P.M. Editorial Director CINDI KOPLOW Editor RITA GUARNA Art Director STEPHEN M. VITARBO Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS Art Assistant YVONNE MARKI Contributing Editors MARISA SANDORA, JOSH SENS
sneak peek
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An Anniversary Celebration Spring heralds new beginnings, and here at Raleigh Limited, we’re celebrating our beginning: It was 45 years ago when my father, Roland Koplow, founded the store in an effort to bring fine European menswear and personalized service to Indianapolis. The store is now in its second location in Keystone Crossing, where we offer an even larger selection of clothing, shoes and accessories, an expanded made-to-measure selection and a dedicated hospitality “suite” where you can grab a drink, chat with friends and relax for a bit. But what hasn’t changed since my father founded the store all those years ago is our unwavering dedication to taking care of our customers, discovering new and exciting merchandise, and supporting our community. After all, that’s what a specialty store is all about. So what else is new right now? Soft jackets that are virtually weightless and can be paired with trousers for a more polished look, or with casual cotton pants and denim for everyday wear. And there’s plenty of attention-getting color for spring, for those looking to add some fun to their wardrobe. Consider adding a pop of color—perhaps a lavender shirt with a grey suit or royal blue socks with khakis. It just might put a spring in your step. (Of course, we offer plenty of understated and elegant neutrals as well.) Speaking of steps, check out our newly expanded shoe department, where we now can offer even more of your favorite designer footwear, from Magnanni, Di Bianco, Trask, Salvatore Ferragamo and many other labels. We also have some very exciting made-to-measure events coming up with top brands including Samuelsohn, Ermenegildo Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli. See page 12 for details. The main goal of Raleigh magazine is to keep you abreast of the latest—and best—fashions. But we also feature some great articles to enhance your life. The new McLaren on page 34 will have you wanting to upgrade your ride this spring, and golfers excited to hit the links again will want to check out the story on Old Head, a famed golf course in Ireland (page 48). Looking to get away? A trip to the Big Apple for a stay at The Lowell (page 60) might be just what the doctor ordered—an apple a day, right? Whether you’re a longtime customer or someone who has never visited the store, enjoy this splendid season, and we hope to see you soon so we can show you our beautiful collections and help you find what you need. And most important, in keeping with my father’s mission, give you a wonderful experience.
Contributing Photographers THOMAS MUELLER, DANIEL SPRINGSTON PUBLISHING STAFF Publisher SHAE MARCUS
Associate Publisher AMY B. WEISS National Brand Manager MONICA DELLI SANTI Director of Production and Circulation CHRISTINE HAMEL Advertising Services Manager JACQUELYNN FISCHER Senior Art Director, Agency Services KIJOO KIM Production/Art Assistant ALANNA GIANNANTONIO Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK PUBLISHED BY Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, RITA GUARNA, CHRISTINE HAMEL RALEIGH Magazine is published by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Raleigh. Copyright © 2017 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, RALEIGH, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email rita.guarna@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, RALEIGH Circulation Department, Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.
MARK KOPLOW
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MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA WWW.ROBERTTALBOTT.COM
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THE
RALEIGH GUIDE POLISHED PANTS THE PERFECT SUMMER SIP
The Negroni is still enjoying its moment. The classic Italian aperitif, made with equal parts Campari, sweet vermouth and gin, is served over ice with an orange peel for garnish. Two industry trends have fueled its growth: the rise of bartenders as craftsmen and a shift in people’s preference for a more bitter drink. In fact, there are more bitter liqueurs on the market now than anytime during the past 60 years, notes Warren Bobrow, author of Bitters and Shrub Syrup Cocktails. The bitter part of a Negroni comes from the Campari, of course, but mixologists have gotten creative and are making variations of the drink using other bitter liqueurs like the lighter and more orangy Aperol, Braulio, an herbal Italian amaro, and the complex, spicy China China from Bigallet. Traditionalists who prefer the classic Campari version will be glad to know it’s now even easier to enjoy: Campari released a bottled Negroni last fall. As of press time, the premixed cocktail was available in a few markets nationwide (Chicago is the closest), but if it’s a hit, you’ll soon find it coast to coast.
There are lots of brands that offer pants, but if you’re in the market for new trousers, it’s smart to choose a brand that specializes in just that. Brax is one such company. Brax trousers have been around since 1950 and were dubbed “the trousers of progress” for “discerning customers of all tastes” way back then. In fact, the company was responsible for Germany’s first trousers with a zip fastener in 1960. How’s that for progress? These days, the brand is known for stylish pants that actually feel good to wear. The fine materials and excellent finish ensure that they will last, just like the impression you’re sure to make wearing them.
PORTRAIT OF A BASEBALL GREAT
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SPRING/SUMMER 2017 |
Yankee hero Joe DiMaggio rarely granted interviews, carefully crafting a public persona that maintained his legacy while fiercely guarding his personal life. But in his last decade, the Yankee Clipper befriended a fellow Italian-American: Dr. Rock Positano. The good doctor shared his memories of DiMaggio with his lawyer-cum-writer brother, John Positano, who penned Dinner With DiMaggio: Memories of An American Hero (Simon & Schuster; $26), shedding light on the enigma that was Joltin’ Joe. Positano, a foot doctor, successfully treated the center-fielder, and the two became close despite the fact that Positano was 40 years younger. Dinner With DiMaggio follows the story of their friendship from its star-struck beginning in 1990 through all its highs and lows over the next decade. Positano’s accounts of their times together reveal DiMaggio’s many rituals and quirks: the same meals at the same restaurants, the same pals, the same look—sportcoat and tie everywhere. DiMaggio also opened up about his relationship with Marilyn Monroe and his falling out with Frank Sinatra. Positano shares never-before-told stories of the famous people DiMaggio rubbed shoulders with. Positano’s loving tribute of a complicated man brings the baseball great to life and will have fans of the national pastime engrossed from cover to cover.
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THE RALEIGH GUIDE RALEIGH PERSONAL SERVICE
BASIC INSTINCT
High-quality basics should be the foundation of every wardrobe, and designer Patrick Assaraf believes these should be both stylish and affordable. His long and short-sleeved T-shirts, classic sweaters, polos and more are made from sumptuous fabrics like cashmere and super-soft Peruvian cotton, giving a luxurious feel to the most casual clothing. With T-shirts priced as low as $75, luxury isn’t out of reach for most shoppers, whose casual looks will be elevated to a whole new level. Stop by Raleigh and feel the softness and quality for yourself.
As a family-owned business, we take a lot of pride in everything we do at Raleigh. We have the finest sales professionals that you will find anywhere, and our experienced tailoring staff works diligently to make sure that you look great. Our commitment to our customers goes beyond the sale. Service impacts every part of our business, and our goal is to constantly exceed your expectations. From offering shopping by appointment to closet cleaning, we take care of you, and, of course, special requests are always welcome!
THE A–Z LIST Raleigh Limited Menswear features dozens of the world’s finest designer brands under one roof. See if you don’t find your favorites in the list below. Then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love.
ASK MR. ETIQUETTE
TRUNK SHOWS:
YOUR ALL-ACCESS PASS
| RALEIGH
Raleigh’s trunk shows are an opportunity to meet representatives of your favorite brands and have clothing, shoes and other items custom-made. Upcoming trunk shows and special events include: SATURDAY, APRIL 22 Ermenegildo Zegna
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MAY Brunello Cucinelli
Mark Koplow explains how to sail through life without giving offense. I have been invited to a “Black Tie Optional” function. Since I don’t own a tuxedo, what should I wear? —Indecisive in Indianapolis Usually this means that a host would like to have a black-tie event but is trying to be considerate to those guys who don’t own a tuxedo and may not want to rent one. Whether it is a wedding, bar/ bat mitzvah or charity event, I would suggest wearing a black suit and accessorizing with a white French cuff shirt with cufflinks, a black or silver long tie or bow tie, and a dressy black shoe. This way you will not stand out to everyone else wearing a tuxedo, and most people won’t notice that it is a suit rather than a tuxedo. Your new black suit can be worn again on any dressy occasion. Still, you might consider investing in a classic tuxedo for this function and other black-tie events in the future.
ALBERTO SAND BOGLIOLI SANTO STEFANO BOSCA SARTORE BRAX STENSTRÖMS BRITISH APPAREL TRASK COLLECTION VINCE BRUNELLO CUCINELLI WATERVILLE/ CANALI TRILUXE CORNELIANI W. KLEINBURG CULTURATA ZANELLA DAVID DONAHUE DI BELLO DI BIANCO DONALD J PLINER ELEVENTY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ETON ETRO EYEBOBS GIMO’S GRAN SASSO GRAVATI HICKEY FREEMAN HILTL INCOTEX ISAIA JAKE AGAVE JKT LEFT COAST TEE ERMENEGILDO LBM ZEGNA LUIGI BIANCHI MAGNANNI MEYER PANTHERELLA USA PAUL BETENLY PAUL & SHARK PETER MILLAR PSYCHO BUNNY PT01 RAFFI RAG & BONE ROBERT GRAHAM ROBERT JENSEN ROBERT TALBOTT SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SAMUELSOHN
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THE RALEIGH GUIDE
UMBRELLAS GO HIGH TECH
Lost your last umbrella? You’re not alone. They’re easy to leave behind in a cab, a restaurant, an office building. Well, not anymore. The new Davek Alert connects to your smartphone to track the distance between your umbrella and phone. If the distance exceeds approximately 30 feet, the umbrella will send a subtle alert to your phone. The service can be easily turned on, off or paused with a tap on the notification, and a replaceable coin battery on the umbrella should last up to a year, depending on use. The umbrella is smart, but also strong, like all Davek umbrellas, with a core support rib composed of steel, aircraft-grade aluminum and flexible fiberglass. The shaft is solid steel and the canopy is made from 190-thread count microfiber fabric. This is definitely an umbrella you don’t want to lose—and now you won’t. Pick one up at Raleigh before the forecast calls for rain.
FOR THE LOVE OF FRIED CHICKEN
The duck-fat-fried chicken at Petit Chou has become something of an institution, so fans of that mouthwatering dish will be happy to hear that the restaurant’s owner is opening a new fried chicken place in Meridian-Kessler called Crispy Bird. The 800-square-foot restaurant, scheduled to open this spring, is the latest project from Patachou Inc., which owns Petit Chou, Napolese, Café Patachou and Public Greens. Local GMO-free and antibioticfree chicken will be served along with comfort food sides, house-baked breads and desserts, wine and beer, says Martha Hoover, president of Patachou Inc. Gluten-free fried chicken will also be on the menu, and vegetarians will have options too. “I happen to be one of those people who spent most of my childhood in Texas and happen to love fried chicken,” says Hoover. “I like a really brined, really Southern-style, really crispy fried chicken where the chicken is super-moist.”
| RALEIGH
CRISPY BIRD, 115 E. 49TH ST., INDIANAPOLIS, CRISPY-BIRD.COM
CLOSET CLEANING Sometimes it’s hard to part with old friends. Raleigh can help. When you shop for your new seasonal wardrobe, our sales associates will come to your home and let you know which items are worn or out of style and suggest how to coordinate your existing clothes with new additions. We’ll even take your old clothes and donate them to a local charity on your behalf.
A NEW SOCIETY It’s a coffee bar, a wine bar, a restaurant featuring South American dishes … the concept may be hard to define, but it’s easy to see why people are flocking to Open Society, a café/restaurant in SoBro on the corner of College Avenue and 49th Street. The space is industrial chic with brick walls, polished-concrete floors, high exposed ceilings and metal chairs, and the food is a creative addition to the Indy dining scene. Chef Tim Brater has put together small dishes like lamb meatballs glazed with chipotle marinara, which are fun to share, but for those with larger appetites, entrées are also an option—the Tomahawk cut bone-in ribeye steak is a standout. Whether you go for dinner or check out their hugely popular brunch (served Tuesday to Sunday), the food and drinks will not disappoint. OPEN SOCIETY, 4850 N. COLLEGE AVE., INDIANAPOLIS, 317.999.8706, OPENSOCIETYINDY.COM
SHOES TO WEAR NOW Classic is always on trend, and you’ll find plenty of timeless and elegant shoe styles at Raleigh’s expanded shoe department this season, from double monk straps by Di Bianco to loafers and lace-ups by Magnanni. (Both brands make their debut at the store this spring.) What else is new to the Raleigh collection? With its trademark Gancini logo, venerable shoemaker Salvatore Ferragamo has the shoes you need to step out in. Slip on a pair or two by Gravati and Trask, or check out the latest designs by Santoni, Vince, or Ermenegildo Zegna. Still looking for more? Add flair to your outfit in loafers by Donald J Pliner. Whichever style you choose, looking good is a walk in the park when you’re wearing one of these designer brands.
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WHEN ORDINARY IS UNACCEPTABLE. CARMEL CITY CENTER
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Gadgets & Gear
RIDE OF YOUR LIFE Unlike anything on two wheels, VanMoof’s new SmartBike will make you rethink the phrase, “It’s like riding a bike.” Integrated LED lighting, an anti-rust chain and puncture protection tires will please veteran cycling enthusiasts, while luxuries like an anti-theft tracking system, keyless lock and smartphone compatibility appeal to all riders. $1,398.
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FIRE IT UP! Your grilling game doesn’t have to end when daylight fades, especially when the evening is still young. With the BBQ Grill Light and Fan by Sharper Image, your cookout can go well into the night—its four LED lights perfectly illuminate your grill, while dual fans pull the smoke you can’t see away from your space. Now that’s what’s cooking! $89.
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HEAD OF THE PACK Wish you can ride your bike to work but can’t stomach storing your helmet all day? Then you’ll be happy to know Morpher has come up with a practical and safe solution. The company has created a foldable helmet that’s flexible, so it fits flat in your office briefcase or gym bag but is strong enough to meet U.S. and European safety standards. It had yet to reach stores at press time, but you can snag one online if you don’t want to wait. $119.
You may not need any of these high-tech toys. But you’ll certainly want them!
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WORTH A LOOK Not looking forward to the in-flight movie? Pack the Avegant Glyph personal theater headset for your next trip and watch your digital content or streaming video on the crystal-clear screenless display. The retinal imaging technology, including LED projection onto 2 million microscopic mirrors, is said to replicate natural eyesight. $549.
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GET INTO THE SWING Now here’s a golf coach who won’t yell or make you feel bad the next time you bogey. Hook up with Zepp’s Golf 2 Swing Analyzer, it’s a sensor that attaches to your golf glove and analyzes every swing—club speed, tempo, length and more. Results are immediate: Evaluations will be sent to your smartphone while you’re on the course. The only thing it won’t do is carry your sticks. $150.
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ELEVATE YOUR DRIVING GAME You might not hit for distance off the tee, but you’ll want to travel far in the Mercedes-Benz Style Edition Garia Golf Cart, which debuted last season at the British Open. The battery-operated “sports-cart” has a carbon-fiber roof and rear spoiler, as well as the types of amenities you’d expect from the luxury automaker—a mini fridge, 10-inch touchscreen, windshield heater, wipers, an 80-mile driving range on full charge and more. Price unavailable at press time.
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MUSIC
SONIC BOOM
FLO MORRISSEY
Despite what some trolls say, we’re living in a Golden Age of original music. Give a listen to these four performers, and you’ll agree. By Mark Dowden
BEN HARPER Growing up to be a singer-songwriter was a natural path for Ben Harper. His grandparents owned a store called The Folk Music Center and Museum, whose patrons included Leonard Cohen and Taj Mahal. At age 9, Harper heard Bob Marley perform live, and Marley has been an influence ever since. Harper’s work spans blues, folk, reggae, rock and soul, with lyrical themes ranging from protest music to love songs. In mood and sonic range, his latest album, in particular, is a rewarding roller-coaster ride. The album: Call It What It Is Go-to song: “Shine” Deeper dives: “Fool for a
Newcomer Flo Morrissey, a 22-year-old Brit, was drawn to folk music from an early age. Her debut album features her original songs—earnest, pastoral works written from a teenage point of reference. Morrissey has said she gets along better with older people than kids her own age, and certainly her velvety voice sounds like that of a seasoned performer. Her latest effort, released this January, is an album of cover duets with Matthew E. White. These two have fantastic chemistry; the tracks bounce merrily along as the two performers trade verses. The album: Gentlewoman, Ruby Man Go-to song: “Look at What the Light Did Now”
Lonesome Train” and “In the Colors” from Lifeline
Deeper dive: A surprisingly hypnotic version of “Grease” (yes, that “Grease”)
AARON LEE TASJAN Ohio native Aaron Lee Tasjan writes gritty lyrics. The Smoky Mountain News put it this way: “Tasjan’s words are soaked in spilled whiskey, misunderstood tears and dusty memories. Each number seeps into the cracks of your troubled soul.” Roger that. In New York City, Tasjan found himself as lead guitarist of the New York Dolls and also formed his own band, The Madison Square Gardeners. But it was after moving to Nashville in 2013 that the heartachy lyrics started flowing like so much Tennessee whiskey, and his solo career blossomed. The album: Silver Tears Go-to song: “Memphis Rain” Deeper dives: “12 Bar Blues” and “Everything That I Have Is Broken”
NEKO CASE While attending art school in Vancouver, Neko Case cut her musical teeth as a drummer for local punk bands. She recorded lead vocals for songs that ended up on The New Pornographers’ first album, which was meant as a side project for its musicians but catapulted the band to surprise indie success. In 1997, as a college junior, Case went country on her first solo album. On the solo efforts that followed, she has explored the haunting genre of “country noir” with songs that are often emotionally raw and always cinematic. The album: The Worse Things Get, The Harder I Fight, The Harder I Fight, The More I Love You Go-to song: “Night Still Comes” Deeper dives: “Ragtime” and “This Tornado Loves You”
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LET’S GET DRESSED Your night out will go better if you turn the act of getting
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dressed into a pre-party. Pour yourself a “dresser”—an aperitif or cocktail to sip as you prep— and put on some feel-good tunes. This playlist will do nicely: “Right Now” by TV on the Radio “When the Tequila Runs Out” by Dawes “With Arms Outstretched” by Rilo Kiley “Lasso” by Phoenix “Be Thankful for What You Got” by William DeVaughn “Australia” by The Shins
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“She Walks in So Many Ways” by The Jayhawks “Occapella” by Lee Dorsey “True Sadness” by The Avett Brothers “Going Back to New Orleans” by Deacon John “These Words” by The Lemon Twigs “Sister Jack” by Spoon
Lee Dorsey
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ESSENTIALS
IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS
Whether you’re going to the track, the speedway or a weekend party, there are accessories to finish every look.
DERBY DAY
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Clockwise from top left: linen and viscose sportcoat by Sand, chambray shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna, bowtie by Edward Armah, pocket square by Etro, socks by Marcoliani, trousers by Incotex.
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ESSENTIALS
REV PARTY
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Clockwise from top left: sportcoat, shirt and pocket square all by Etro, socks by Marcoliani, trousers by Hiltl, shoes by Salvatore Ferragamo.
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ESSENTIALS
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MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND Clockwise from top left: wool, linen and silk plaid sportcoat by Isaia, white polo shirt by Zanone, checkered lapel pin by Edward Armah, boxer by Saxx, light grey wool trousers by Sartore, socks by Pantherella.
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THE MUSE
Living Lively Whether she’s wearing couture or out in casual wear, Blake Lively projects an effortlessly chic vibe. No stylist required. By Marisa Sandora
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lake Lively might be the most down-to-earth fashionista on the planet. Despite looking flawless in the couture gowns that designers are falling all over themselves to have her wear, the L.A. native doesn’t use a stylist to help her pick out her clothes—and she insists it’s no big deal. “I don’t understand why people make a fuss over that,” she told People. “Everybody in the whole world does all their own styling. They wake up in the morning and put their own clothes on themselves. It’s not that different.” And yet her life is different and has been since she burst onto the scene in The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants in 2007 and then Gossip Girl two years later. Most of us don’t have to dress for myriad red carpet events and the constant scrutiny that comes with being in the public eye. But Lively does it with a California coolness that is enviable. Part of her sartorial success comes from her choosing clothes that are perfect for her body. She frequently shows off her mile-long legs in short skirts, high hemlines and stilettos, and her killer curves are on full display in formfitting gowns that scream 1950’s bombshell.
She’s also not afraid to take risks. Lively, who met her husband, actor Ryan Reynolds, while filming Green Lantern, is a hero to fashion experts who praise her ability to fearlessly mix colors and patterns and wear surprising silhouettes. Even while pregnant, Lively wowed on the red carpet, often donning stretchy clothes that hugged her growing bump, like the plunging pale yellow Gucci dress she wore to the Angel Ball in New York in 2014. One headline proclaimed it “may just be the most perfect pregnancy dress any celeb has worn on the red carpet, ever.” Next up from this mom of two little girls is All I See Is You, a relationship drama due out in August, in which she plays a blind woman who recovers her sight and literally begins to see her life differently. Lively has eyes wide open when it comes to appreciating her fairy tale life and the clothes that come with it. “It’s fun to dress up in a big sparkly number and a Cinderella-looking dress,” she said. “Because when you’re a little girl you play dress-up, and now I get to do it in big-girl life too.”
Hollywood ingénue Blake Lively oozes California cool, sporting touchable, undone hair even when wearing a glamorous gown.
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SPRING/SUMMER 2017
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ON THE RUN
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Spring/Summer 2017:
isaia
Colorful and bold, yet laid-back, this season’s whimsical collection is for the man who doesn’t take himself too seriously.
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SPRING/SUMMER 2017
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ith their bright colors and eye-popping patterns, the spring/summer offerings from Italian luxury brand Isaia might best be described as a breath of fresh air—a breath of fresh ocean air from Capri. Indeed, the menswear company has based its new collection on the “Capri-type man,” a bored-looking but somewhat theatrical fellow who “wants to seduce everyone with flashy colors and languid gazes.” Breezy striped, check and windowpane patterns in yellow, lavender, pink and ocean blue make for a fun yet pulled-together look. Deconstructed suit jackets sport extra-large lapels and are shorter for comfort. This is not your standard boardroom attire. Dressed-down weekends might call for colored denim, a patterned shirt and a reversible suede vest tanned with natural vegetable tannins, an ancient and eco-friendly process that ensures a beautiful, durable finish. It’s not surprising considering all Isaia garments are handmade in bella Napoli, and they feature traditional construction techniques such as hand-stitching. This season’s collection makes you want to roll up your trousers and soak up the sun while you leisurely work on your next business plan aboard your yacht. If you can’t get to Capri this summer, wearing Isaia is the next best thing.
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A
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BRITISH INVASION
What do you get when you cross a sports car with a vehicle built for everyday comfort and driveability? The McLaren 570GT, a high-performance yet refined ride. McLaren’s new 570GT features a 3.8-liter twin-turbo V8 engine, lightweight carbon fiber chassis and aluminum body, allowing an impressive power-to-weight ratio that lets you go from zero to 60 mph in just 3.4 seconds. But compared with the 570S, it’s more refined and practical, with a softened suspension, more headroom and more luggage space.
That powerful engine pumps out 562 horsepower and 443 lb-ft of torque. The car features a 7-speed dual-clutch transmission, but there is also a manual mode controlled via steering-wheelmounted rocker-shift paddles.
Compared with the 570S, the GT’s suspension firmness is relaxed by 15 percent in the front and 10 percent in the rear to make it more comfortable to drive. But don’t worry, the GT still handles like a sports car, hugging the road and feeling impressivly responsive.
Going shopping? The 570GT has almost 8 cubic feet more storage space on the back ledge of the car than the 570S (for a total of 12 cubic feet of carrying capacity with the trunk in front). You can even buy McLaren luggage designed to make maximum use of the added space.
Starting price:
| RALEIGH
$198,950
The GT cast alloy wheels (19-inch front and 20-inch rear) are fitted with Pirelli P-Zero tires, which minimize unwanted road noise with noise-cancelling foam technology.
The uncluttered interior features a “floating” center console with a 7-inch vertical touch screen plus heated memory seats and sumptuous leather trim.
The rear spoiler sports a higher lip (10 mm over the standard-issue 570S) that provides added downforce and stability.
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The 570GT comes with dihedral doors to make getting in and out easier. The doors gently latch when closing, thanks to the soft-close mechanism.
The panoramic roof makes the roofline slightly taller than the 570S and it stretches back further to the rear, offering more headroom and amazing views. (Stargazing, anyone?)
The low nose is set off by highintensity LED headlights.
SPRING/SUMMER 2017
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START YOUR ENGINES In Ted McLaren’s Auto-Icon series of paintings, each subject is a study in light, shape and color. Ted McLaren always had a thing for cars. Formula One racing was his first love, and his first car was a 1958 Corvette—a dream machine for any generation. With a last name like his, it’s conceivable that McLaren was destined for a future involving cars, though he is unrelated to the McLaren who founded the British car company. McLaren is a packaging design engineer by trade. He holds more than 40 packaging-related patents and served as president of a packaging business in northern Ohio. But even a busy professional needs a hobby, and to relax, he turned to the canvas. (He’s been painting for fun since age 10 and attended the Ontario College of Art.) After restoring a 1964 Ford Mustang convertible, he discovered a special way to capture the essence of the classic car. Rather than painting the entire body of the vehicle, McLaren decided to feature a specific part of the car, focusing on its headlights and grille. McLaren has since completed dozens of auto paintings, hosted gallery shows and earned numerous awards. His work can be seen at mclarenfineart.com. SPRING/SUMMER 2017
Ted McLaren’s pieces focus on a specific part of a car rather than the entire vehicle. The sparkling chrome fender and grille of a 1963 Ford Galaxie are the focal points of the painting at left.
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Opposite page: The design of the 1936 Ford grille and hood ornament was state-of-the-art in its day. This page: a two-canvas print features the dramatic face of the 1960 Corvette, made popular by the television program Route 66.
SPRING/SUMMER 2017
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MEN’S CLUB LOOK YOUR BEST IN THESE COOL NEW FASHIONS. Photography by DANIEL SPRINGSTON
| RALEIGH
Blue plaid suit by Canali, check shirt by Isaia, orange tie by Robert Talbott, pocket square by Etro, belt by W. Kleinberg.
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Orange sportcoat by Isaia, blue linen shirt by Luciano Barbera, pocket square by Edward Armah, light blue trousers by PT01 Traveler, belt by W. Kleinberg, shoes by Salvatore Ferragamo.
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| RALEIGH
Light brown and blue suit by Samuelsohn, blue check shirt by Stenstrรถms, paisley tie by Eton, pocket square by Robert Jensen.
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Safari jacket by L.B.M., linen shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna, trousers by Incotex, belt by Anderson’s.
SPRING/SUMMER 2017
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| RALEIGH
Olive lightweight wool sweater and check shirt both by Brunello Cucinelli, trousers by Brax.
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SPRING/SUMMER 2017
Blue and grey active jacket by Waterville, ice cotton polo by Zanone, jeans by Agave, belt by Anderson’s, shoes by Salvatore Ferragamo.
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| RALEIGH
Light blue sportcoat by Boglioli, pink cotton shirt by Luciano Barbera, white jeans by Alberto, stretch belt by Anderson’s.
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Wool, linen and silk sportcoat by Luciano Barbera, check shirt by Stenstrรถms, tie by Italo Ferretti, pocket square by Etro, trousers by Ermenegildo Zegna, belt by W. Kleinberg.
SPRING/SUMMER 2017
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THE SPORTING LIFE
linked in in ireland
Located at the bottom of the Emerald Isle, Old Head will soar to the top of your favorite golf locales. By Josh Sens
T
| RALEIGH
o play the most jaw-dropping golf course on the planet, you don’t have to travel to the end of the earth. It only looks that way. Sleepy two-lane roads wind through the unspoiled countryside of County Cork, Ireland, spilling south toward the coast, where the Emerald Isle gives way to the Celtic Sea. Here, a diamond-shaped promontory known as Old Head of Kinsale rises from the water, its shale and sandstone bluffs towering some 200 feet above the waves. Across its wind-blown crown stretch the firm green fingers of a layout so arresting, its beauty verges on surreal. Nine of the 18 holes at Old Head Golf Links cut hard along the cliffs. All 18 holes provide a coastal panoramic. Also looming into view from every green and tee box is a 17th century lighthouse, perched on a jagged point, Old Head’s farthest incursion into the sea. From the day it opened, in 1997, the links inspired a kind of wide-eyed wonder. Even seasoned travelers were stunned by the surroundings, which prompted Links magazine to hail the layout as “the most spectacular” golf course in the world.
“Are there courses with better bunkering? More artistry in their architecture? Greater prestige on the global stage? Sure,” says Joe Passov, chief architecture critic for Golf magazine. “But for the sheer sense of thrill, even an element of danger, there was and is nothing like Old Head. It’s a golf course setting more awe-inducing than any you’ll see.” In keeping with its priceless vistas, a round at Old Head does not come cheap. The pair of Irishmen behind the project, Patrick O’Connor and his late brother, John, dreamed up the course as a high-end getaway for golf-loving globetrotters. Accordingly, green fees top out at 260 pounds, or roughly $325, during peak season. The majority of guests come from overseas, happy to pay prime rates for a chance to cross the course off their bucket list. As a return on their investment, golfers are a treated to a layout with the improbable features of an Escher painting. Several tee shots and approaches encourage heroics, with long, forced carries over sheer cliffs and chasms. At Old Head, hazards take on a new meaning.
Consider what awaits you on the second hole, a 402-yard par-four whose unforgiving fairway elbows sharply along a bluff. Take a few steps from the tee box, and you’re peering at a dizzying 200-foot drop. When the fog blows in at Old Head, golfers are warned not to wander for obvious reasons; the next step could be a doozie. Better to wait until the visibility clears. Not that staying put at Old Head is much of a hardship. The course is part of a luxury resort, with a spa, 15 well-appointed cliff-side suites, and a clubhouse bar and restaurant overlooking the Atlantic. Nor is it the only local attraction. Nearby, sits the community of Kinsale, a historic fishing port-turned-tony resort town that is regarded by many as the culinary capital of Ireland, brimming with fine restaurants, wine bars, cafes and pubs. Every October, the town plays host to the Kinsale Food Festival, a three-day celebration of wining and dining marked by foodie walking tours and elaborate tasting menus. But enough about food. The stars of this golfers’ paradise will always be the scenic course and fabled layout of Kinsale.
Opposite page, clockwise from top: A focal point of the coastal panoramic, a 17th century lighthouse is visible from each green and tee box of Old Head Golf Links. Too much slice or hook off the tee might send your shot into the sea—talk about a water hazard! Power up before your round with a traditional Irish breakfast, including bacon, sausage, eggs, potatoes and more hearty treats. With its variety of restaurants, bars, cafes and pubs, the nearby town of Kinsale is considered the food capital of Ireland. The late John O’Connor, along with his brother Patrick, designed the award-winning golf course at Old Head.
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RALEIGH
Our customers are as varied as the clothes we sell, but they all have something in common: the desire to look their best. These two pros from very different fields share why they rely on Raleigh. Photography by Thomas Mueller
SPRING/SUMMER 2017
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Greg Chernoff, M.D. Chernoff Cosmetic Surgeons
| RALEIGH
There are many similarities between what I do for my patients as a plastic surgeon and what Mark and his staff do for their clients. Simply put, we both help people look their best, which helps them achieve their highest level of self-esteem. This has a direct effect on how people interact, both personally and professionally. That goes for how I present myself too. Patients look to me to be very meticulous and detail-oriented. Because I am in surgery from 20-40 hours per week, I wear surgical scrubs most of the time, but when I am seeing new patients and doing consultations, I like to present myself with the highest degree of professionalism. That’s why I wear a suit and tie whenever I can, and I have I acquired most of them from Raleigh. I have had the pleasure of shopping at Raleigh Limited for more than 20 years. Mark and his staff took the time to get to know me. The store’s selection, ranging from casual to formal, is impeccable. The service is stellar. More important, everyone at the store has become my friend. They are helpful, give me information, and never try to sell me something I don’t want. They also challenge me to explore outside of my clothing comfort zone. I have a wide assortment of suits including Armani, Boglioli, Brunello Cucinelli, Canali, Corneliani, Etro, Isaia, Zanella and Ermenegildo Zegna. Accessorizing with shirts, ties, pocket squares, belts and shoes is always fun at Raleigh. One of my favorite “shopping adventures” happened last year. Mark had a stunning Etro black-and-gold velour paisley dinner jacket in the window. I tried it on but felt it was a little over-the-top for me. The guys at Raleigh encouraged me to go for it, and I did. I wore it on New Year’s Eve and had several people offer to buy it off my back! Any kind word that is extended to us, no matter how small, can be very uplifting. This is a constant when I am wearing anything from jeans to a suit from Raleigh.
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Simon Pagenaud 2016 IndyCar Champion Team Penske
Being French, I feel obliged to dress up and I interest in fashion. It must be in the genes! But also, I realized being in the public eye at a young age that I needed to feel confident, and the only thing that helped me with that was having nice clothes. My inclination is always to dress up. I like European-style, slim-fit suits, especially those by Danish designer Sand Copenhagen, whom Raleigh connected me to in 2013. They became a partner of mine because we shared the same taste in fashion. I like to wear various shades of blue, but my dream is to one day get a burgundy suit. My biggest signature trait is that you’ll often see me with fancy shoes and socks matching my belts. I love shoes that are out of the ordinary. Raleigh had a pair of beautiful cork shoes from Donald J Pliner on display when I went there. Hailey, my girlfriend, got in touch with salesman Gerry Moreau to put a pair aside for me for my birthday a few days later. Those shoes are my pride—I wear them for special events with my blue suits. If you want something classy or out of the ordinary, you will find it at Raleigh Limited. It’s a one-stop shop where they will take care of you, including all the tailoring you need to be perfectly content with what you buy. You get a sense of being a VIP when shopping there. Plus I really like the events they put on—they’re great for networking!
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GRAPE
going south...
South Africa, that is, where you might not expect to find such splendid pinot noirs. By Josh Sens
I
| RALEIGH
n recent decades, as oenophiles awakened to emergent wine regions around the world, South Africa remained largely out of sight and mind. Blame politics and preconceptions. The country’s Apartheid-era isolation didn’t help. But even after the boycotts ended, South African vintners faced stiff competition from a global market that paid their labels relatively scant attention. Asked for impressions of South African wine, outsiders were apt to mention Stellenbosch, the heat-baked region outside Cape Town that has staked its claim with such sun-worshipping varietals as granache and cabernet sauvignon—if they knew to mention anything at all. But as with so much else in South Africa, the country’s wine-making reputation has changed. It is now seen as a hotspot for pinot noir. Actually, cool place is more like it. At first blush, that might sound unlikely. Pinot noir, after all, is a notoriously temperamental grape that performs most willingly in cool-climate settings like Burgundy, Oregon’s Willamette Valley and the fog-blanketed Sonoma Coast. It can stand some heat but doesn’t tolerate relentlessly high temperatures, and South Africa, of course, gets a ton of sun. Yet the country is also home to microclimates with just the sort of traits that pinot noir prefers.
Consider the appellation called the Cape South Coast, which stretches southeast of Cape Town over rolling terrain, close to the Atlantic Ocean, covering a collection of grape-growing wards and districts including Elgin Valley, Walker Bay and Hemel en Aarde. The soil here, rich in clay and shale, is primo for pinot, and so are the climatic conditions, freshened by the ocean’s kiss. More than 60 wineries operate around the Cape South Coast. Many are small and family-run, and the finest of them share in the conviction that the smartest way to treat pinot noir is pretty much to get out of its way. “When you are harvesting quality fruit, it’s not necessary to manipulate the wine,” says Jean-Claude (JC) Martin, head winemaker at South Cape Coast winery Creation Wines. “What you do instead is guide it gently through the process so as to preserve the sense of place.” Like many winemakers, Martin recognizes pinot noir as “the heartbreak grape,” a nod to its fragility and beauty. But he loves it fearlessly. Born in Switzerland, he first fell for the varietal in his late teens while working his family’s vineyards on the slopes of Lake Bienne. In 2002, he and wife Carolyn, a native of South Africa, purchased the land where their winery now sits, on
Hemel en Aarde Ridge, transforming what had been a sheep farm into a happy place for pinot noir. Creation’s vineyard grows at nearly 1,000 feet above sea level, less than 10 miles from the Atlantic. A combination of the clay soil and the ocean’s cooling influence gives rise to elegant wines that favor bright fruit flavors and fresh acidity over weighty oak and tiresome tannins. “That’s what we think pinot noir should be,” Carolyn Martin says. “Ageworthy wines that pair wonderfully with food.” Pinot noir of similarly splendid subtlety and structure can be found at respected estates throughout the South Cape Coast. They include venerable properties like Botanica and its Elgin Valley neighbor, Boschendal, a winery whose roots reach back to 1685, as well as relative newcomers like Stellar Winery, whose delicate, fruit-forward River’s End pinot noir is made with organic grapes. Stellar released its first wines in 2003, one year after JC and Carolyn Martin established Creation. At the time, South African pinot noir flew largely under the radar. But those were the old days. The world is changing quickly. And one of the truths of our brave new age is that undiscovered wine regions don’t remain that way for long.
Clockwise from top: Founded in 1685, the picturesque Boschendal is one of the oldest wine estates in South Africa. Ginny Poval, Botanica’s winemaker, is a self-taught American who relocated to South Africa and planted her first vineyard there in 2009. Take a sip of Creation’s Pinot Noir and you may detect red berry aromas, elegant vanilla and a whiff of wood spice. Botanica’s vineyards, where grapes for The Mary Delany Collection are grown. Visitors are treated to dramatic mountain views at Boschendal. Boschendal’s Elgin Pinot Noir comes from one of the highest planted vineyard sites in the Elgin Valley.
TASTING NOTES Creation Estate 2013 Pinot Noir, $30 This balanced, elegant pinot noir opens with bright berry notes and gives way to a clean, refreshing finish. It marries beautifully with mild fish and poultry. Boschendal Elgin 2014 Pinot Noir, $35 A complexly structured wine, this pinot noir has hints of cranberry and red cherry on the nose and notes of clove and spiced oak on the palate. It’s a wonderfully food-friendly wine. Botanica Mary Delany Collection 2013 Pinot Noir, $25 Starting with crisp acidity and refreshing berry notes, this delicate pinot noir shows a feisty character with a bright and spicy finish. It has slight undercurrents of the oak in which it is aged. Try it with roast chicken or shellfish. Stellar Winery, 2014 River’s End Pinot Noir, $14 On the nose, this organic wine gives off woodsy hints, almost like a morning walk through a dewy forest. But given time to open, it becomes a medley of blackberries and ripe cherry, with just enough tannins for a dry and elegant finish.
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8610 East 106th St • Fishers, IN • (317) 842-2888 • www.archbricktile.com
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ROOM KEY
springtime in new york
Inside The Lowell, you’ll find creature comforts galore, gorgeously redesigned public spaces and heavenly Mediterranean cuisine. Oh, and you can step outside too. By Rita Guarna
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| RALEIGH
he glories of Gotham are almost endless, from marveling at the works of art along Museum Mile to walking the winding trails of Central Park—and of course there’s the Great White Way. Not to mention some of the world’s finest restaurants. But at day’s end, instead of staying in teeming, touristy Times Square, those in the know head to Manhattan’s residential Upper East Side, where well-kept townhouses dot quiet, tree-lined streets. The picture of classic New York style, The Lowell is one of the best places in town to lay your head. And fill your belly. Built as a luxury apartment house in the 1920s, it’s a sophisticated home-away-fromhome, with its 74 rooms and suites designed by residential designer Michael S. Smith, who is known for his work in the White House—he decorated former President Obama’s private residence—and his modernist take on traditional design. Think of it as a well-appointed pied-àterre where you’ll want for nothing. There is 24hour room service, a fitness center and a fireplace attendant (you don’t think they’d expect you to fan your own flames, do you?). Most of the hotel is dedicated to spacious suites that are perfect for families—complete with terraces, kitchens and, yes, those cozy wood-burning fireplaces. In March, Charles Masson, one of the country’s most respected restaurateurs, and chef Christian Delouvrier, the legendary epicurean, opened Majorelle at The Lowell. Named after the iconic garden in Marrakech, it features a seasonally driven menu with such treats as Delice au Foie Gras et Pomme Fondante (foie gras with warm apples) and Ris de Veau sur Lit de Mache
et Truffes (veal sweetbreads, mache salad and truffles). Masson is best known for his role at the family-owned French restaurant La Grenouille. Delouvrier, renowned for his cuisine at fine restaurants in Paris and in such Manhattan eateries as Lespinasse and La Mangeoire, offers a French menu accented by flavors from Morocco and elsewhere in the Mediterranean. A five-star boutique hotel privately owned by the Chartouni family, The Lowell is the brainchild of Dina DeLuca Chartouni, a city-born and -raised woman, who wanted to create a haven, but one that would make a major statement. She called on Smith and Mark Pinney, the Londonbased architect for the Armani and Burberry stores, to help her realize her vision, which most recently guided a two-year renovation of the hotel’s public spaces. And, ah, those spaces. The design’s centerpiece was put in place with the long-awaited opening of Majorelle. The restaurant is framed by marble columns and features a custom-patterned grey and ivory marble floor, vaulted wood arched ceilings, and deep blue silk velvet on the chairs and banquettes. And there’s a retractable roof over the adjacent terrace that makes indoor/ outdoor dining possible year-round. (It’s also the place to be to enjoy Masson’s passion for floral artistry, including exotic plants and fountains!) Connected to Majorelle is Jacques, an intimate bar with French oak wood paneling, an antiqued mirrored ceiling and a marble bar. Here you’ll imbibe expertly crafted cocktails such as the Bleu de Marjorelle—my favorite—consisting of
Bombay Sapphire Gin, elderflower, cucumber and basil. It’s the perfect guests-only hideaway for entertaining over cocktails and light fare from noon to 4 p.m., when The Club Room opens to the public. That space features a library of art books surrounded by French oak parquet flooring, hand-painted paneling and a wood-burning fireplace. Was indulgence ever so civilized? Staying at The Lowell almost derailed my plan for a city weekend getaway. The hotel is so perfect that I was tempted not to leave at all. But leave—at least for a little while—you must, as there is art to see, music to hear and a great city to experience. Recently opened is The Met Breuer, a satellite space of The Metropolitan Museum of Art in the shell of the old Whitney Museum. The Marcel Breuer-designed edifice was acquired to expand The Met’s more contemporary works. And spring is the perfect time for the New York Philharmonic to usher in new talent alongside its repertoire of standbys. New talent too is showcased at The New York City Ballet’s Here/Now Festival in May. On Broadway there are the thought-provoking new musicals Dear Evan Hansen and Come From Away. Or see a revival, say, Allison Janney in Six Degrees of Separation or Kevin Kline in Present Laughter. Of course, don’t forget about fair-weather fun. After strolling Central Park, take to the water on a paddleboat or monkey around in the zoo. If you’re too tired to walk back, just tell the cabby to take you home—to The Lowell. THE LOWELL, 28 EAST 63RD ST. AT MADISON AVE., NEW YORK, N.Y. (212.838.1400); LOWELLHOTEL.COM.
Clockwise from top: There’s plenty of room to spread out in a Deluxe Junior Suite complete with a terrace. In the 1,000-square-foot Hollywood Suite, decorated with one-of-a-kind artwork and memorabilia, there are two large seating areas, one with a wood-burning fireplace, and one with a large dining or meeting table. Book the Penthouse Suite for a romantic evening, where you can enjoy views from the 17th floor. Charles Masson, managing director of the hotel’s new restaurant, Majorelle, is a veteran of famed eatery La Grenouille. The gorgeous Garden Suite features two private terraces, one with a fountain, pictured here, and one with a dining area. The entrance to the hotel is on a quiet, tree-lined street off Madison Avenue.
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MADE-TO-MEASURE
If The Suit Fits
Want to take your wardrobe to the next level? Try made-to-measure on for size. Sure, you look sensational in the suits you’ve purchased at Raleigh. We carry the finest labels in the world and our tailors are the best in the business. But there may come a time when you want to treat yourself to a one-of-a-kind suit made just for you. That’s when we’ll introduce you to the world of made-to-measure.
LAPEL STYLE
FABRIC SELECTION
PERSONAL DETAILS
TROUSER CHOICES
Evening fundraiser? Wedding? Office? Wherever you’re going, there’s a lapel for that. The classic day-to-day look of a notch lapel is perfect for single-breasted suits and sportcoats. Often found on double-breasted suits, peak lapels can be identified by their edges, which point upward toward the shoulders, and are equally suited if you’re headed to work or a blacktie affair. The rounded-edge shawl lapel is commonly found on dinner and tuxedo jackets and worn at formal occasions such as weddings, galas and black-tie events.
| RALEIGH
OVERALL FIT
There’s a reason an off-the-rack suit may not feel right when you try it on—it’s not made specifically for you. A made-to-measure suit, however, is constructed according to your body measurements. How should it fit? Jackets should have smooth lines that follow the contours of your body, with sleeves ending at the wrist bone. The top button of a two-button suit, or the middle button of a three, should hit at the navel and never below. If a buttoned jacket creates X-shaped rippling, it’s too tight. There’s a lot to consider when finding the right garment, but not to worry—just allow our tailors to take your measurements, and we’ll handle the rest.
There’s an endless number of ways to give your suit a personal touch. Experiment with a variety of cuffs, stitching, lining and vents to satisfy your tastes and add style. Buttons are small but can play a large role in your suit’s overall appearance—change the type and color of your buttons from basic to an exotic material like horn or bone to enhance your look.
Choose materials and patterns that suit you (and the season) best. For Indianapolis’ warm spring and summer temperatures, choose more breathable fabrics like cotton and linen. If cold temperatures are in your future, garments made of wool and cashmere will keep you warm. And don’t forget to show your personality—colors and patterns, plaids and pinstripes will make your suit pop.
A lot of detail goes into the suit jacket, but don’t forget your lower half! You have plenty of trouser options from which to choose—pleats or flat-front, with or without belt loops. But what shouldn’t change is the fit: Trousers should sit at the top of your hipbones, slim downward and then taper below the knee. Your seat and thighs should be hugged comfortably by fabric and show no wrinkles or divots. The bottom hem should graze the top of your shoes, so about 1 to 1½ inches of ankle (or sock) show when you walk or sit.
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www.sandcopenhagen.com Yuki Kempees for SAND Copenhagen
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3/20/17 4:24 PM
THE BULLPEN
ADVICE FROM THE
STYLE PROS
The staff at Raleigh is dedicated, expert, and, not incidentally, a hell-of-a-nice group of folks who make shopping for menswear fun. To help you get to know the staff better, we asked them a few questions about style advice and their everyday lives. Check out their answers, then stop by the store to chat with them in person. We are all ready to serve you.
GERRY MOREAU
MARK KOPLOW
DAVID STEPHANY
MIKE DUNN
ALLEN KIRK
MATTHEW KOSIN
What do you do on your day off? I help my elderly mother, keep up with the house, and enjoy a little me time during what is left.
What do you do on your day off? If the sun is out, I am on the golf course. Otherwise, I find myself in the store.
What do you do on your day off? I’m mostly doing home maintenance work. I can always invent a project.
What do you do on your day off? I am writing a book on my recollections from my Navy days.
What do you do on your day off? I hike, read and play guitar.
What’s the one article of clothing you simply can’t part with? A Zegna sweater that belonged to my father.
What’s the one article of clothing you simply can’t part with? A Boglioli unconstructed jacket. They are like an “old friend” the day you buy one.
What’s the one article of clothing you simply can’t part with? My alligator belt.
What do you do on your day off? Run errands, basic house cleaning and occasionally keep my son James home from daycare and spend the day with him.
What’s the one article of clothing you simply can’t part with? Underwear. Hahaha! If you had a time machine, what year would you travel to and why? The 1800s. I love the cowboy and Indian era. That’s the kid in me. Do you wear a watch? If so, what brand(s)? I always wear a watch. Emporio Armani, Citizen, G-Shock. What do you do to stay fit? I’m always active even if I’m not working out. I bike, kayak and swim (after falling out of the kayak). Favorite food? French cuisine. My father was a chef and now my wife has picked up the torch. (Thank God, because I can’t cook.) What’s the biggest sartorial mistake men make? Trying to make a suit too casual. If you wear a suit, accessorize it accordingly! What’s your favorite place in the world? I’ve traveled a lot. I was born in Paris and lived in Canada, but Long Island, N.Y., takes the prize. What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given? Always listen—you will always learn something.
If you had a time machine, what year would you travel to and why? A major-league ball park in the 1930s. There’s nothing better than an entire stadium full of suits and ties, and Babe Ruth at the plate. Do you wear a watch? If so, what brand(s)? I have a Breitling sport watch and a Cartier that my wife borrowed permanently. What do you do to stay fit? I have a trainer who keeps me going. Favorite food? A really good steak is tough to beat. What’s the biggest sartorial mistake men make? Wearing clothing in the wrong season—the camel-hair blazer in July for example. What’s your favorite place in the world? The Monterey Peninsula. Can’t live without? Dylan and Phoebe, my two dogs. What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given? There is no substitute for hard work.
If you had a time machine, what year would you travel to and why? Probably sometime in the early 1950s. Times were simpler and more prosperous. Plus the cars were really cool. Do you wear a watch? If so, what brand(s)? A Cartier Tank. It was a gift from the Koplows on my 25th anniversary at the store. What do you do to stay fit? Probably not enough. Favorite food? Stone crab. What’s the biggest sartorial mistake men make? Often men try to “spruce up” their wardrobe with a new piece or two but stop short of complete outfits or looks. If one buys a new suit, get a new shirt, tie, socks and shoes. If you get a cool casual jacket and trousers, go ahead and complete the look—get the perfect shirt and suede boots. What’s your favorite place in the world? Maui. Can’t live without? My wife and family. What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given? You’re always going to learn more by listening than talking.
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If you had a time machine, what year would you travel to and why? 1972––I was young enough to correct all the mistakes I would eventually make. Do you wear a watch? If so, what brand(s)? Movado and Michael Kors. What do you do to stay fit? I hit the gym three times a week.
What’s the one article of clothing you simply can’t part with? Dark-wash jeans. If you had a time machine, what year would you travel to and why? 1850. I’m a cowboy at heart. Do you wear a watch? If so, what brand(s)? Kenneth Cole. What do you do to stay fit? I shoot hoops, lift weights, hike and bike.
If you had a time machine, what year would you travel to and why? I’ve been told I was born in the wrong era due to my interest in tailored clothing, so I would have to say either the ’60s, ’70s, or mid-’80s when the power suit was dominating.
Favorite food? Lobster.
Favorite food? Anything Italian.
What’s the biggest sartorial mistake men make? Wearing pleated pants.
What’s the biggest sartorial mistake men make? Wearing too many solids.
What’s your favorite place in the world? Hawaii; specifically, Maui.
What’s your favorite place in the world? Arizona. I love the sun and the desert.
Can’t live without? My guitars.
What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given? To be true to yourself.
What’s the one article of clothing you simply can’t part with? My black Chelsea boots.
What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given? Be kind to everyone. You may meet them again on the way up or down.
Do you wear a watch? If so, what brand(s)? Always. I switch between Timex, Skagen and a Kenneth Cole I’ve had for years. What do you do to stay fit? I rely on my metabolism... for now. Favorite food? I’ve been on a burger kick lately. What’s the biggest sartorial mistake men make? There are too many for me to list, but I’d say poor choices in shoes. You could have the perfectly tailored suit, shirt and tie, but it only takes a poor pair of shoes to completely ruin an outfit. What’s your favorite place in the world? I haven’t been outside the U.S. yet, so I’d go with my old stomping grounds of Chicago. Can’t live without? A comb. What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given? Happy wife, happy life.
3/21/17 4:51 PM
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