BOURBON’S NEW MOMENT

The classic whiskey from the Bluegrass State evokes Americana like an old tintype. So why is it suddenly hot? By Darcey Gohring

On the second of May, the mint juleps are sure to be flowing at the 146th Kentucky Derby. And these days that cocktail’s main ingredient, the pride of the Bluegrass State, is finishing in the money. Long a bar staple, bourbon is booming again: In just the past decade, Kentucky alone has gone from under 20 distilleries filling about 450,000 barrels to almost 70 filling 1.7 million.

Bourbon has always carried Kentucky, but what makes it newly cool in New York and San Francisco? The answer: a combination of younger people embracing it and bartenders appreciating its versatility in crafting cocktails. “There is a surging cocktail culture—it’s the Mad Men effect,” says Eric Gregory, president of the Kentucky Distillers’ Association. “People are looking for an authentic experience.” Elizabeth McCall, assistant master distiller at the well-known Kentucky distillery Woodford Reserve, agrees. “Bourbon has been gaining in popularity because

47 SPRING/SUMMER 2020 THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE

|it’s an authentic spirit, made by real people like myself,” she says. “I believe the bourbon boom will continue for many years, because the world is just starting to discover it and we have a lot of room to grow across the globe.” Officially the nation’s only native spirit, bourbon is an American whiskey. Contrary to popular belief, it doesn’t actually have to be made in Kentucky—although 95 percent of it is, and loyalists say that without the state’s climate and local waters it just isn’t the same. Geography aside, the spirit does require three elements: corn, charred oak and time. It is that high concentration of corn that gives bourbon its initial sweet impression. The rest of the profile is influenced by factors such as aging, other ingredients (typically rye and barley) and the climate in which it is aged. The bourbon gets its rich, golden color—along with much of its flavor—from the charred oak.

Besides mint juleps, bourbon can be used in other classics such as a Manhattan, an old fashioned or a whiskey sour or simply mixed into a sweet tea on a warm summer day. Purists say it’s even better served in a whiskey glass neat. If you’re trying bourbon for the first time, Gregory recommends starting with a lower proof and sampling different varieties. “There is a bourbon for every palate,” he says. “Bourbon is very elegant, but very complex. Every one has a little twist: They are all slightly different.” However you try this historic whiskey, take a cue from Kentucky natives—sit back, sip and take a moment to enjoy. Traditional Mint Julep Ingredients n 2 oz. bourbon n ½ oz. simple syrup n 3 fresh mint leaves n crushed ice Directions Express the essential oils in the mint and rub them inside the glass. To the same glass, add simple syrup, bourbon and crushed ice. Stir. Garnish with more ice and fresh mint. Elizabeth McCall, assistant master distiller, Woodford Reserve PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY, INSET COURTESY OF WOODFORD RESERVE

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