Down Memory Lane: City Alleyways and Skyscrapers

LOCAL HERITAGE WALKS from

TOYNBEE HALL

DOWN MEMORY LANE City Alleyways and Skyscrapers

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Old and new often stand side by side in the City; at Bank crossroads, classical Mansion House – official residence of the Lord Mayor of London – sits beside the postmodern wedge of No 1 Poultry.

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The Royal Exchange was established by a mercer, Thomas Gresham, in 1566 ‘as a comely bourse for merchants to assemble upon’. Rebuilt twice, it now houses offices, luxury shops and a café in the covered courtyard.

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As you weave your way through a labyrinth of courts and alleyways, you’ll discover two chop-houses – the George and Vulture featured in Dickens’ Pickwick Papers, and Simpson’s Tavern – as well as the Jamaica Wine House.

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Opened in 1881, Leadenhall Market is a spectacular market arcade laid out around a central crossroads. Look out for Old Tom’s bar – a tribute to a 38-year old goose – as well as Harry Potter fans seeking out film locations.

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CURIOSITIES to spot along the way

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DID YOU SPOT THEM? Lions guarding a money pile at the Bank of England; Thomas Gresham’s golden grasshopper atop the Royal Exchange; news man Paul Julius Reuter; the Bronte sisters carved into the door at 32 Cornhill; pavement maps guiding you through Bengal Court; Simpson’s chop house serving City lunches; a 1669 Mercers’ Maiden in Corbet Court; Old Tom the goose at Leadenhall Market; dazzling stripes around the garden at 120 Fenchurch Street; earth, water, air and fire sculptures beneath the Scalpel; and a mounted knight in Devonshire Square.

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“Cash flow runs deep but spirit deeper, You ask am I my brother’s keeper? I answer by nature by spirit by rightful laws, My name, my brother, Wilberforce.”

The Gilt of Cain by Lemn Sissay, Fen Court

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Soaring skyscrapers cluster around Leadenhall Street, including Richard Rogers’ Lloyd’s of London (1986) and the Cheesegrater (2014), the Gherkin (2004) by Norman Foster, and most recently the Scalpel (2018).

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From textiles to tea, cigars to sherry, the Cutler Street warehouses held cargoes of the East India Company and later the Port of London Authority.

Now, as Devonshire Square, it’s home to City offices and restaurants.

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Petticoat Lane is best known for value-for-money fashions, shoes and accessories.

In Goulston Street, fragrant street food – Indian, Chinese, Moroccan, Thai – tempts City workers out for a lunchtime treat.

CITY ALLEYWAYS AND SKYSCRAPERS One of the joys of exploring the City is seeing how old and new sit side by side. As you follow this walk, through narrow alleyways and public squares, you’ll encounter historic landmarks such as the Bank of England, Royal Exchange and Leadenhall Market alongside soaring glass-andsteel skyscrapers.

Walk East, 2021

WALKEAST