Brandon Mountain
Classic
Brandon
Scramble
Tom Hutton traces an airy ridge up the mountain that inspired a saint. Photos by Tom Hutton
B
randon Mountain is the highest peak in the land away from the Reeks; and like its neighbours on the other side of Dingle Bay, it tops out way above the 3,000ft (917m) mark, making it one of Ireland’s 14 unofficial Munros. But other than this, the two Kerry massifs have little in common, with the high mountains of the Reeks forming a tight cluster of jagged and rather imposing rock, huddled around a series of complex, hidden cooms; while St. Brendan’s Mountain is really just the highpoint of a lengthy north-south ridge that dips its toes in the ocean at its northernmost tip, and swings east above Dingle in the south. What it lacks in drama however, it more than makes up for with far reaching views, especially over the ocean, which is no doubt what inspired the
“It’s always a good idea if the most confident scrambler goes first and then aids the others where necessary.” saintly voyager. The linear nature of the ridge makes it awkward to find good circular walks, and the best way of exploring the whole massif is to start in the north and follow the undulating crest south, eventually finishing in Dingle. But for a shorter, sharper and considerably more exciting ascent, the mountain’s eastern ridge can be traced from the car parking area at Faha. This isn’t a route for the faint-hearted though, and after a comfortable walk-in that follows the main trade route past a picturesque grotto, the ridge narrows and steepens, eventually forming a vertiginous knife-edge arête that
requires some airy scrambling both up and down. The most logical descent route follows the well-marked Faha path – a far easier prospect – and this could also be used in ascent by anyone of a nervous disposition.
Getting to the start The car park is at the head of a narrow lane that leads west from the coast road between Cloghane and Cappagh; on the western shores of Brandon Bay (Q493119). This is easiest reached by following the N86 west out of Tralee and then sticking to the coast to follow the N560 through Castlegregory towards the Connor Pass. Where this bears
The Walk The start of the trail is well marked from the car parking area. Go through the gate and follow the clear track out onto open ground, crossing a couple of stiles before arriving at the tranquil walled grotto. Continue along the main track until it levels and starts to contour around the hillside . Now bear right, away from the track, and head up the steep grassy hillside to gain the rounded crest of the East Ridge. If nothing else, this deviation from the main trade route offers a brand new vista – this one over Faha Grotto the magnificent rock-strewn slopes of the Owennafeana Valley. A tumbledown wall runs along the top of the ridge. Bear left to follow it uphill with plenty of visual distractions to the north.
North Top, Brandon from the Faha Ridge
Keen eyes will spot the remains of an aircraft on the rugged hillside. These belong to a German warplane, which crash-landed here when it ran out of fuel in WWII. Miraculously, the crew survived. Eventually you’ll leave the wall behind and continue along the crest until you reach the spot height of 822m, where you’ll be able to make out the ramparts of an old fort - undoubtedly impregnable in its day. Ahead of you now is the daunting knifeedge arete. Drop down into the next saddle and then follow the faint path as it weaves between pinnacles and outcrops, always with steep drops to either side. Braver travellers may want to run the gauntlet with the more exposed spine of the ridge but for those who prefer terra firma, the path bypasses most of the obstacles. You’ll eventually come to a huge tilted slab that forms a real knife-edge and prevents further progress along the crest.
Munster
left, inland, stay on the coast road and continue towards Cloghane.
Brandon Mountain route but not yet. Continue, now steeply, up to the summit, which is adorned with a cross and a trig point, as well as plenty of places to shelter if you need a rest. The views are truly breathtaking – perhaps the finest in all Ireland – and it’s easy to see why it’s commonly believed that it was from this vantage point that St. Brendan found his inspiration to sail west. The walk could be ended here simply returning back down the main path; but having come up this far, it’s definitely worth extending things a little by dropping into the broad col to the south and then making the rather cruel 130m of re-ascent to the top of the neighbouring Brandon Peak, which also offers stunning views, these mainly eastwards towards the Connor Pass as well as back towards Brandon Mountain. Whatever you decide, the descent starts from the summit cross, where you need to head back down the path you climbed earlier and then bear right to follow the steep zigzags all the way down to the valley floor. Once down, you can find your way around the lakes by following huge yellow arrows painted on rocks. Eventually you’ll leave the coom behind and traverse around the hillside, still on a very clear path that actually climbs slightly – an unwelcome development for tired legs. Stay with it, enjoying the views eastwards to the sea, and south across the lakes to the Connor Pass, and you’ll eventually crest the rise and start to drop, still with stunning views ahead. Shortly, you’ll reach the tumbledown walls where you left the main path on your outward journey. Continue easily now back to the grotto and from there, it’s just a few minutes on to the car park. Looking towards Brandon Peak and Gearhane from the summit of Brandon
This is avoided by a couple of fairly steep and exposed rock steps that you need to descend. The second of these is the crux of the whole traverse and whilst it’s steep and often greasy, there are plenty of holds. It’s always a good idea if the most confident scrambler goes first and then aids the others where necessary. From here, continue along the foot of the tilted slab to its end where you keep ahead, making a few more easy scrambling moves, until you reach a deep notch beneath a jagged rocky ridge that climbs the final steep slope onto Brandon Mountain. Cross the col and keep to the right of the ridge to follow a steep but stepped grassy path to Brandon Mountain’s North Top (891m). Bear left here and enjoy an easy walk around the head of the coom to eventually meet the main trade route coming up from the paternoster lakes. This will be your descent
FACT FILE BRANDON MOUNTAIN Distance: 15km/9 Miles Ascent: 900m Time: 6-7 hours Maps: OSi; 1:50,000 sheet 70
"Braver travellers may want to run the gauntlet with the more exposed spine of the ridge but for those who prefer terra firma, the path bypasses most of the obstacles."