Tour of Mont Blanc

Tour of Mont Blanc

Tour of

Mont Blanc

Walker and the Chamonix Aiguilles reflected in Lac des Cheserys

Helen Fairbairn visited three countries and tackled numerous alpine passes to complete the most popular long-distance walk in Europe.

Photos by Gareth McCormack

Tour of Mont Blanc

T

he Beast of Champex has eaten my shoe!” The cry came echoing across the camping ground shortly after dawn, the words edged with more than a hint of terror. Those already out of their sleeping bags began to look about wildly, while anybody still under canvas hurried to extricate themselves. The Beast of Champex?

What sort of monster were we talking about?

The offending boot was passed round for inspection; at least thirty percent of the leather had indeed been removed, with a ring of saliva and tooth marks left to decorate the hole.

Then somebody spotted the sign, pinned up on the campsite notice board. “Attention!

Do not leave your shoes outside – Charley likes to eat them!” And beneath the words, a charming portrait of an endearing little cat. A guffaw of laughter passed around the group.

The Beast of Champex was just a pussy cat with a peculiar fetish for sweat-infused leather. It didn’t help Stu, whose shoe had been consumed with six days of walking still to go, but it did give the rest of us a good laugh.

Fortunately Stu managed to commandeer a spare pair of sandals, and the show hit the road again. The seven of us were on a mission

to complete the Tour of Mont Blanc – the most celebrated mountain walk in Europe – and it would take more than the Beast of Champex to hold us back.

Practicalities

an outdoor use. Fifty tent pegs? Bring them all. A half-kilo Leatherman tool? Might be useful, chuck it in. Others were more circumspect; Stu felt that personal hygiene was an unnecessary chore in the mountains, deodorant and soap being frivolities that a real outdoor man could do without, more than two pairs of underpants sheer indulgence. Gareth was hauling a seventylitre rucksack laden with camera kit, while Paul had opted for an unstructured day pack with notions of moving fast and light. As we progressed through the days, the advantages and disadvantages, muscle aches and smells resulting from each approach would become abundantly clear.

Unfortunately our kit burden had been increased somewhat by the timing of our trip.

We had decided to travel in early October, several weeks after the area’s mountain refuges had closed. The choice was deliberate – the trail would be empty, autumn foliage at its peak, and mountain solitude almost guaranteed. Though the path is clear of snow from around the end of May to the end of October, virtually all walkers tackle it between mid-June and mid-September, when

Champex had provided the base for our sixth night on the trip, offering an opportunity to relax and refuel in a small Swiss village.

Around half of our overnight stops had brought us down to valley floors, where we stayed in a succession of mountain hamlets.

The rest of our nights had been spent up high, sleeping either in or near the area’s excellent network of mountain refuges.

Such scenic and cultural variety is one of the key attractions of the circuit, and it’s hard to imagine a route that packs more diversity.

In eleven days, the 170km-long trail visits three different countries and passes through a huge variety of alpine scenery, from soaring peaks and hanging glaciers to verdant valleys and peaceful forests.

We started our trip in France, in the village of Les Houches, just south of Chamonix. It was here that the different attitudes of various members of our party were first revealed.

Mick had packed in half an hour, throwing in anything and everything Walker negotiating a ladder above Argentiere that advertised

“Fifty tent pegs? Bring them all. A half-kilo Leatherman tool? Might be useful, chuck it in.” the huts are open. With up to 10,000 people visiting the trail annually and numerous organised walking tours, solitude can be a precious commodity during the summer months.

Having completed the trail in peak season two years previously, I was particularly keen to tackle it now without the crowds. The extra weight of being self-sufficient was a small price to pay for a semi-wilderness experience in such a spectacular setting. And the scenery is incredible. The path circumnavigates the Mont Blanc massif, allowing you to appreciate the highest mountain in western Europe, as well as its satellite peaks and spires, from every angle.

Below the summits, the scenery is a showcase for the lakes, glaciers, flora and fauna that makes the Alps so alluring.

The other major attraction for most

walkers is the physical challenge of completing the route. The trail crosses numerous passes above 2000m, and the total ascent of around 10,000m is put in perspective when you consider that the climb from the Base Camp to the summit of Everest is less than 4000m. If you’re carrying a pack full of camping gear in particular, the average daily ascent of almost 1000m soon begins to make itself felt.

Walkers on the Tour of Mont Blanc below the

Walkers beneath Mont Blanc on the Balcon Sud, Chamonix Valley, France.

Dawn over the Rifugio Elisabetta, Val Veni Crossing a swing bridge over Torrent Bionnassay

Getting Going We began to appreciate the solitude as soon as we got into the mountains proper. Day two began in the village of Les Contamines, and an all-day ascent of 1300m brought us slowly to the refuge at the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. The trail was deserted from the moment we left the valley floor, with herds of voluptuous alpine cows the only company as we made our way through the lower pastures. The meadows turned to rock as we gained height however, the scenery growing harsher and less forgiving. The sun was already setting as we arrived at our destination, a wooden

Evening light on the Refuge du Col de la Croix Bonhomme

refuge whose lofty position gave it spectacular mountain views in all directions.

Though the refuge was officially closed and all staff had left, the ‘winter room’ had been left open to provide shelter for out-of season visitors. In some alpine refuges the winter room is little more than a large cupboard with bunk beds, but here we opened the door to the most welcome sight imaginable. The entire refuge was open, with full kitchen and toilet facilities.

Underfloor solar heating meant it was beautifully warm, even before we discovered the large stove and adjacent store brimming with chopped firewood. Exactly what the doctor ordered after a hard day’s toil and with the cold October night drawing in outside.

The following day took us over two more high passes, including the Col des Fours, the joint-highest point of the route at 2665m. A patch of recent snow allowed a quick snowball fight, with the deep crevasses of the inspiringlynamed Glacier des Glaciers hovering overhead.

Firewood stacked against an alpine chalet, Chamonix Valley

Fact File

Tour of Mont Blanc There are several places on the route where the trail splits, with the official route heading in one direction and an alternative – often harder – variente taking a different course. The Col des Fours was one such variant, still well-signed and following an obvious path, but offering a slightly wilder experience than the main trail.

A 900m descent and 800m climb brought us to the second col of the day, where a ruinous customs hut marked our passage into Italy. The Rifugio Elisabetta provided another memorable night’s accommodation, with dinner cooked on camping stoves outside in the late evening sun.

It was here that we began to reap another reward of our decision to walk this late in the year. For some reason the seasons seemed more advanced on this side of the mountain, the alpine scrub and valley trees resplendent in full autumn glory. All day we enjoyed uninterrupted views of Mont Blanc’s southern face, the towering rock walls and immense ice falls seeming just a stone’s throw across the valley.

Getting There: The closest airports with access from Ireland are Geneva (from Dublin with Aer Lingus) or Grenoble (from Dublin with Ryanair). There are good bus and train links from both airports to the Chamonix Valley, at the start of the route.

When to Go: The main walking season is from mid-June to mid-September, when the trail-side refuges are open.

However the path is largely clear of snow from the end of May to the end of October, and trips are possible at this time if you carry your own camping gear. July and August are the busiest months.

Places to Stay: The mountain refuges charge around ?20 for a dorm bed or ?45 for half board, though you’ll need to book in advance in high season. Access towns and villages generally offer a wide variety of accommodation options, from hostels and B&Bs to hotels. Most villages and refuges also have designated camp sites, which are either free or cost around ?6 per person.

Guided Walks: Most walking tour operators offer trips on the Tour of Mont Blanc, with options ranging from a few days to two weeks’ walking. Expect to pay around ?1,300 for a 15-day trip. Alternatively you can walk independently, but have a company transport your bags between overnight stops.

Further Information: Lonely Planet’s Hiking in the Alps combines a full route description with practical travel information. Other dedicated walking guides include Cicerone’s Tour of Mont Blanc or Explore the Tour of Mont Blanc by Rucksack Readers.

Refuge de la Balme On Monte Saxe beneath the Grandes

Rest Day A descent into the Italian ski resort of Courmayeur meant mandatory pizza all round, and a rest day to recharge the batteries. Everybody took full advantage of a lazy morning, with more than one member of the group heading to the local pharmacy in an attempt to communicate the need for blister relief. The staff seemed all too familiar with dishevelled foreigners

“The ever-changing and often truly stunning vistas had kept us awe-inspired throughout.”

Alpine Rhododendron and the Mont Blanc massif reflected in Lac des Cheserys,

Evening light on the Chamonix Aiguilles

hobbling dramatically around their shop, and had a ready supply of Compeed to quieten the moans and groans.

The human body is remarkably resilient however, and a few hours rest is all it took to transform us from physical wrecks to enthusiastic adventurers once more. The most immediate lure was the promise of one of the most challenging yet rewarding days of the entire circuit. Some 1600m of ascent brought us along a broad ridge with tremendous views of the Grandes Jorasses to the Rifugio Bonatti. It’s easy to become blasé when you pass sublime scenery on a daily basis, but the ever-changing and often truly stunning vistas presented by the previous three days of walking had kept us awe-inspired throughout.

A couple of days through the southwestern corner of Switzerland brought us onto lower forest trails, and safely past our confrontation with the Beast of Champex. Then it was up again, through extensive swathes of wild blueberry – a trail-side snack much appreciated by both ourselves and a native ibex we watched gorging himself before the onset of winter. The rocky notch of the Fenêtre d’Arpette marked our second visit to 2665m, two sentinel spires and a huge boulder field protecting the pass itself.

The following col brought us back onto French soil. Two further days of walking would lead us along the renowned balcony trail on the western side of the Chamonix valley, past all the most famous views of the Mont Blanc massif. We knew the stunning scenery and perfect trails would continue all the way back to Les Houches. The group exuded a palpable sense of accomplishment and fulfilment, and for me it had been just as enjoyable an experience second time round.

The Tour of Mont Blanc had worked its magic again, and it had been a pleasure to share it with friends.

Male Ibex in autumnal foliage

Walkers heading towards the Col du Bonhomme