290 MAY 2022

RECREATION WALKING and CYCLING TRAILS New Zealand Walk:

Fascinating walks around Golden Bay and beyond

MAY 2022 ISSUE NO 290

New Zealand Walk:

Going guided on the

Paparoa Trail New Zealand Walk:

New Zealand Walk:

Breathtaking views on Mt Fyffe

Routeburn Track an ultimate alpine adventure

NZ $8.50 inc GST

New Zealand Walks:

Waikanae Estuary, lagoon and river walk www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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2 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

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www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

CONTENTS

Issue 290 - 2022

2 The Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Waikanae Estuary, lagoon and river walk 11 New Zealand Walk: Hamilton Lake Walkway a

popular walking route

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12 New Zealand Walk: Breathtaking views on Mt Fyffe

Adventure

15 New Zealand Walks: Walks and hikes in the Mt

Fyffe/Seaward Kaikoura Range

18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walks: Turning Points 22 New Zealand Walks: Routeburn Track an ultimate alpine adventure 28 Australian Walks: Five great walks in Australia 31 My Favourite Walks: Fascinating walks around Golden Bay and beyond 36 New Zealand Guided Walks: Going guided on the Paparoa Trail 41 Subscription page

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42 Little feet walk the length of New Zealand 44 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 ECHO Walking Festival Cover: Enjoying a break by the chrystal clear Pororari River on the Paparoa Trail.

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WALKING New Zealand Published Monthly

PUBLISHER/EDITOR: Frank Goldingham: Phone 06-358-6863, 027-274-0726 CONTRIBUTORS: Phillip Donnell, Yvonne van Eerden Barbz Lowther, Ed Cochrane, Daniel Haddock, Olivia Murray, and Judy Eva ADVERTISING MANAGER: Frank Goldingham 0800 walking (925-546) 027-274-0726 Email: walkingnz@xtra.co.nz COMING EVENTS ADVERTISING: Frank Goldingham 0800-walking (925-546) Email walkingnz@xtra.co.nz SUBSCRIPTIONS: Phone 0800-925-546 SUBSCRIPTION RATES: New Zealand Residents; 12 issues $84.50 posted, 24 issues $159.00 posted, 6 issues $51.00 posted DIGITAL $29.00, 12 issues Australia: 12 issues: $122.00 Rest of World: $138.00 NEWSAGENT DISTRIBUTION: Are Direct NZ Limited WALKING NEW ZEALAND LTD, P O Box 1922, Palmerston North Telephone 06-358-6863 - Fax 06-358-6864 E-Mail: walkingnz@xtra.co.nz

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The information and views expressed by contributors are not necessarily agreed to by the editor or publisher, and while every effort will be made to ensure accuracy, no responsibility will be taken by the editor or publisher for inaccurate information.

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42 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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Walkers find sheep on mountain with 40kg fleece

First riverside landing opens at Dallington, Christchurch

The first of the landings in the Avon River Corridor (OARC) has opened to the public.

The Dallington Landing was officially opened recently with a small ceremony and community picnic for local residents.

Christchurch City Council Head of Parks, Andrew Rutledge, says the completion of projects in the Regeneration Area will draw increasing numbers of visitors to the OARC and encourage people to explore the 602-hectare area.

“Seeing people connect with the land, the river, and with each other is exciting, as the vision and objectives of the Regeneration Plan for the Ōtākaro Avon River Corridor are brought to life,” Mr Rutledge says.

“Geographically, the Dallington Landing is situated near centre of the corridor, and we envisage it becoming an important feature of the City to Sea Pathway that will run from Barbadoes St to New Brighton.”

The Dallington Landing features two shelters, public toilets, koru-shaped pathway, picnic tables, and access to the Ōtākaro Avon River.

The remaining vegetation planting at the landing will be completed during the next growing season in April-May. The landing is the second project funded by the Christchurch Earthquake Appeal Trust to be completed in 10 days, after the Avondale pedestrian bridge was officially opened on 4 March.

Two further footbridges at Medway Street and Snell Place are expected to be completed and opened to the public by the end of April.

Above: Locals celebrate the opening of the new Dallington landing.

4 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

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An Australian sheep has had a lucky break after bushwalkers discovered the animal who was carrying a 40-kilogram overgrown fleece.

Found on Mount Alexander in Victoria, the sheep was unable to walk and could hardly lift his head.

The walker got in touch with animal rescue Edgars Mission, who were able to get the animal named Alex off the mountain.

Posting about the ordeal on its Facebook page, the mission said they could tell Alex was once part of a flock due to his docked tail but that he had probably been in the bush for six years.

“So weak was he that he could not stand. Not even when assisted to do so, and struggle we did to find a passage in through his felt-like fleece to administer life-enhancing fluids.

“Truth be told, too, we wondered at first blush with Alex: Could his life even be saved, and would the kindest thing have been to let him pass from this world? And then we lifted the shroud of wool from his face and our eyes met, and in that instant, it was so strikingly clear he wanted to live,” the post said.

Alex’s fleece was so sodden with rain, urine, twigs, bark, beetles and maggots it was a tough job getting the shears through it.

New electric bike charging station in Great Barrier Island

People with electric bikes will soon be able to charge them in Claris thanks to a Locky-dock EV bike charging station at the local board office.

The boardf u n d e d charging station will b e s o l a rpowered and available for three days each week from March.

Aotea / Great Barrier Local Board Chair Izzy Fordham said: “People have told us they’d like easier access to charging stations. With more people wanting to get around on electric bikes, it’s important we start to invest in the infrastructure to support them.”

Izzy says the local board is increasingly focused on the transition towards alternative energy and is committed to improving EV transport options across the island.

Above: Locky Dock at Fanshawe Street, Auckland www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Walk talk

The Kalbarri Skywalk a top architecture project

The Kalbarri Skywalk in WA, Australia has been voted the top Australian architecture project on the popular national TV program Australia By Design.

The Kalbarri Skywalk allows walkers to venture beyond the edge of a 100m drop for spectacular views over Kalbarri National Park. .

Perched right on the cliff-top, two 100-metre-high lookouts project 25 and 17 metres beyond the rim of the Murchison Gorge.

Visitors can venture out on the skywalks and enjoy incredible views of the spectacular gorge and surrounding environment. You can learn about the traditional owners ‘Nanda’ heritage and culture through interpretive signage and artwork.

Discover local fauna statues, fossils and geo location information on the 400 million year old sandstone that makes these gorges.

Pathways are flat and level to the Skywalk, toilets and shelters for easy access for people with prams and wheelchairs. There is also undercover seating and a kiosk.

Roads are sealed. Park entry fees apply.

Drinking water can be purchased during kiosk operation times. Take plenty of water on all walking trails within the park.

New national park for West Australia

The Dryandra Woodland is West Australia’s newest national park. Located near the town of Narrogin, a two-hour drive south-east of Perth, the Dryandra Woodland National Park is the first national park in WA’s Wheatbelt region.

A popular destination for wildlife enthusiasts, campers and bushwalkers, Dryandra is also home for some of Australia’s rarest and most vulnerable w i l d l i f e , including n u m b a t s , w o y l i e s , b r u s h t a i l wallabies, chuditch, quenda and the moundb u i l d i n g malleefowl.

The conversion of the former State forest to national park, including the creation of two class A nature reserves, will help ensure the future protection of its native animals – including more than 100 species of birds and 24 mammals.

The numbat population – WA’s animal emblem – has increased at Dryandra in recent years thanks to a conservation program led by the Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions. It is also home to Barna Mia, a predator-proof animal sanctuary where visitors can see rare and protected wildlife, including numbats in their nocturnal environment, on a guided walk.

Basic accommodation is available at Lions Dryandra Village, and campers are welcome at Congelin Campground and the new Gnaala Mia Campground, which have campsites suitable for tents, camper trailers and caravans.

Above: Dryandra Woodland. Photo: @instagram.com/

brookepykephotography

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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My Favourite Walk

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Waikanae Estuary, lagoon and river walk

F

rom the Tararua Ranges the Waikanae River once flowed through the dense forest which almost reached the sea. At a point near the presBy Judy Eva ent railway bridge the river split into two channels flowing through the swamp forest and salt marsh meeting again at the sand dunes and lakelets of the estuary.

Here they cut through the sandAbove left: Walking through tall trees Photo FQG

Below left: A group crosssing one of the bridges. Photo FQG

6 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

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www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

My Favourite Walk

hills some 10 metres high, the river now flows through a single channel to the Tasman Sea. Middens, observation posts, pa and buried grounds are reminders of early Maori who moved through the area.

We chose to start at the Otaihanga Domain at the beach front where we could enjoy the stroll through the estuary and the Waimanu Lagoon which is a 2k loop and also the tidal saltmarsh of which we had been advised was well worth looking at before starting on the river walk.

We weren’t disappointed. Both were full of bird life. A tidal saltmarsh with prolific aquatic and very noisy wading birds and gaggles of the black backed gulls roosting noisily on the shoal breaks, a cacophony of different calls and signals.

Above left: Bird life near the estuary.

Photo FQG

Above right: The estuary by the river mouth.

Middle right: Beautiful scenery along the way.

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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My Favourite Walk

Waikanae Estuary, lagoon and river walk

The river and estuary are tidal and airport to a variety of waders and sea birds and more than 60 species of birds are found there.

The Waimanu Lagoon Reserve holds a special place full of historic interest and an important part of the Kapiti Coast’s distinctive coastal system with its associated natural values. It is situated in the tidal zone near to the Waikanae River and surrounded by residential living.

There is a flat gravel path and also grass walking around the area.

The lagoon holds a very special love story memory which started around 1990 when a black swan named Henrietta flew into it. Due to a damaged wing she was unable to fly with the other swans and was often alone until a few years later when a white goose named Thomas arrived. The duo quickly formed a bond and Thomas was very protective of Henrietta, scaring off dogs and human beings that came near her.

But after 18 blissful years together, a new female swan entered the equation and was often spotted with Henrietta. No one thought much of it assuming they were both female.

The shocker came when the new swan laid an egg. It turned out that Henrietta was in fact a male swan who had mated with the new female swan. It turned out that Thomas and Henrietta who was really Henry had 18 gay years together. long before Henrietta flew off.

They were to have 68 cygnets over the next six years. Thomas Above left: The suspension bridge to cross to get to the beginning of the loop walk.

Below left: Time for a rest.

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My Favourite Walk

decided to stick around with the duo where he played the role of a doting uncle helping to raise the cygnets teaching them how to fly and taking care of them when their parents did not. In 2009 Henry the black swan died due to old age. It wasn’t long before Henrietta flew off with another swan and Thomas was left alone. After awhile Thomas went on to meet a female goose in the estuary and for the first time had 10 babies of his own.

However his stint as a father was short lived as he had his babies stolen by another goose. It wasn’t long before his eyesight started to fail and he became blind in one eye and eventually the other. In 2013 he was relocated to the Wellington Bird Rehabilitation Trust where he spent the rest of his life. He died when he was almost 40 years old.

The farewell for a well known and bisexual loved goose who resided in the Waimanu Lagoons for many years took place with all the pomp the community could muster. He was laid to rest beside Henry in an area by the lagoons.

A plaque dedicated to Thomas was unveiled. It was a love story that spanned 30 years.

This beautiful story has made the lagoons a special place to wander take in the beauty and think of Thomas.

Following the well formed path toward the river mouth from the lagoons it curves inland and to the start of the river walk. The view of the surrounding area and the river which was flowing down to the sea www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

was magnificent. The river path enters into some amazing scenery.

We had struck a fine overcast day.

As we meandered along enjoying the beauty we were unaware that we were unable walk the whole loop on the side we started out on without crossing onto the other side of the river via the large foot suspension bridge that we had passed and happily kept on walking.

Thanks to information from a friendly local walker we had to detour back to the bridge as there were only exit paths onto surrounding streets ahead. Apparently there is a block of land further along on that side of the track which is private with no entry. Unfortunately there

was no sign and arrow by the bridge informing that this was where you needed to cross to do the loop.

Not helpful for those who are from out of the area it was very disappointing to have walked so far in the wrong direction but must admit that the beautiful scenery and the river made up for it.

Crossing over this beautiful bridge takes you onto a large parking and picnic area with toilets, seats and Above left: A group enjoying a walk on the trail. Photo FQG Above right: Friendly locals stop to chat on the suspension bridge.

Below right: The estuary by the river mouth.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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New Zealand Walk Walk My Favourite

Waikanae Estuary, lagoon and river walk tables.

Turning left over the bridge carry on along the path into another beautiful tree and bush lined path that winds along the river beside established willows, native plantings and plenty of bird life making it a fantastic outing for the whole family.

There are safe and shallow swim-

ming areas, and smaller narrow trails through bush cover that wind out of the main track. It links various reserves along the riverbank including The Karu Reserve, Edgewater Park, Jim Cooke and Memorial Park and you can wander in peace and quiet until you reach the fairly busy frantic Highway 1 above you.

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- 2022

Following the loop around you will now be on the returning side.

There are plenty of seats along the way where you can rest awhile.

You will now be on the side of the river where you are unable to return to the estuary and lagoon due to it being blocked off further ahead.

Keeping on the track cross the Te Arawai Foot Bridge on your left further along to take you back to the other side of the river where you will turn right to continue back to the reserve, parking area and suspension bridge to cross to get back to the other side and to the lagoons and car park.

This beautiful walkway is popular for running, biking, bird watching, dog friendly, pushchair and mobility scooter friendly. Take a picnic and enjoy the tranquillity.

There are many beautiful and different species of trees and plantings along the walkway, the work of many dedicated volunteers who over the years have made this beautiful treasure to what it is today. Where would we be without volunteers?

The weekends are usually crowded with people, I suggest a weekday if possible if you want a peaceful stroll and watch out for the many cyclists who are supposed to give way but sometimes don’t.

The walk took us approximately most of the day taking in the lagoons as well, enjoying the magnificent scenery, taking advantage of the many seats along the path and taking our time. The walkway is flat and suitable for all ages.

The trail can be walked or cycled as a full loop crossing at the Kapiti Expressway and or the Te Arawai Footbridge.

There are many exit and access points for cyclists and walkers.

TO GET THERE. To the lagoons, estuary and river walk.

From SH 1 turn onto Otaihanga Road then follow Makora Road to the large Otaihanga Domain. Plenty of parking there. Enjoy. Easy walking and there are many exits and entries onto and off the walkway.

Above left: A group on a well formed track. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

New Zealand Walk

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Hamilton Lake Walkway a popular walking route

A

n easy walking or cycling trail situated in the heart of Hamilton City, the Hamilton Lake Domain Walkway is popular with walkers, runners and cyclists alike.

The esplanade walkway around the lake is a popular fitness circuit and walking route.

The walk around the edge of Hamilton Lake (Rotoroa) covers 3.8 kilometres and winds through natural lakeside vegetation, past playgrounds and grassed parkland as well as the Verandah Cafe which is the perfect place to relax with a coffee after some exercise.

Hamilton Lake (also known as Lake Rotoroa) walkway includes varied natural lakeside vegetation, grassed parklands perfect for a picnic, a boardwalk section, playgrounds and a café.

The walkway is mostly flat making it suitable for pushchairs and is also a popular dog walking spot.

Birdlife also flourish in the Hamilton

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Lake area with ducks, pukeko, geese and other birdlife all easily spotted around the lake.

The Hamilton Lake Walkway can be accessed from various points, with the main carparks off Ruakiwi Road and Lake Cresent (Innes Common).

It’s a great option for less mobile people as there is seating available regularly around the entire lake.

from the CBD. Hamilton Lake Domain provides a focal point for a variety of water and land based activities as well as offering a unique ecological environment in the heart of Hamilton City.

Lake Rotoroa caters for water based recreational activities such as yachting, wind surfing, canoeing, paddle boats, model boats, dragon boating, waka ama, raft racing and a range of informal activities like feeding ducks or fishing.

Above left: Yachts make a pretty picture on the lake.

Middle right: The pathway is popular with cyclists.

Below left and right: A popular section of the pathway.

Hamilton Lake Domain has a long history as one of Hamilton’s premiere parks. It is a significant recreational facility for residents of Hamilton City and beyond within walking distance

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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My Favourite Walk

12 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

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www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

My Favourite Walk

Breathtaking views on Mt Fyffe adventure The mountainous views from the track to Mt Fyffe. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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My Favourite Walk

Breathtaking views on Mt Fyffe adventure

By Yvonne van Eerden

T

14 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

he morning was clear and sunny so it was a goer for Mt Fyffe (1602) in the Seaward Kaikoura Range, in the Marlborough region.

The morning before, the cloud covered the tops of the mountains so we decided to wait one more day as we certainly wanted the views over the mountains, Kaikoura plains and peninsula.

We parked in the carpark and organised ourselves for our adventure to the hut which was initially our plan. The 4WD track was in good condition and the bush was on both sides going up so we still had shade.

There was no wind at all.

After one hour we came to a clearing where the picnic tables looked quite inviting for morning tea and a rest. We met with some bike riders

- 2022

and another few people walking the track which was wonderful to see.

The views were spectacular even though we were not very high and the cloud was following and came from the tops even though when we left Kaikoura there was no cloud at all.

We just knew it was a good day and continued up, up and up. We took photos as we went in case the cloud stayed.

The scenery was so breathtaking to see as we went higher and higher and were amongst the mountains. It was an incredible feeling to see such beautiful mountains and the Kowhai River so far below.

We stopped many times for photos and just to take in the views. We Above left: Mt Fyffe Hut. Above right: Great views from the track. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

My Favourite Walk

reached the hut and this had been our aim just to get to the hut but one of our party said that we had all day with spectacular weather and views and plenty of food and water so why not have a little lunch then go on to the summit.

We all agreed so off we went. It was still up, up and up and the 4WD became a trail. We all went at our own pace keeping each other in site as encouragement to reach the top and amazingly we came to the trig.

We soaked up the 360degree views at a height of 1602m. All of us were so proud of what we had achieved and sat peacefully admiring the surrounding mountains and the plains towards the small Kaikoura township from the top of Mt Fyffe.

The cloud had come and gone and cleared and at the summit we were above the cloud. After a good break and lots of chatting we started the ascent down. The weather was still perfect for us.

We had a break at the hut and were all feeling good so we ventured further down to the lookout for another break before returning to the www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

car park.

The ascent went very fast indeed.

What a spectacular incredible day we all had. We were on a high after our huge day out. We had taken the eight hours as suggested. You can make the tramp as short or as long as you want.

Above: A view down the valley.

Below right: Stopping to take in the surrounding mountains.

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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New Zealand Walks

fied as a tramping track, but postearthquake and flood debris makes this rewarding tramp a real challenge. Sturdy boots and experience at backcountry route-finding are recommended.

Grange Road to the Hapuku Hut

Walks and hikes in the Mt Fyffe/ Seaward Kaikōura Range

M

t Fyffe is located in Ka Whata Tu o Rakihouia Clarence and Kaikōura area in the Marlborough region.

Summer-bare or plastered with winter’s snowy coat, Mount Fyffe and the Seaward Kaikōura Range dominate the Kaikoura skyline.

These little-known mountains safeguard some unusual natural inhabitants, and provide recreation opportunities ranging from a family stroll to a serious backcountry journey.

There are a number of walks from easy, 45 minutes to expert route, three days.

Mt Fyffe (1602 m)

Time: Eight hours return.

Superb views over the Kaikōura plains and peninsula reward those who climb on Mt Fyffe. On a clear day the view at higher levels includes Banks Peninsula and the North Island. From Mt Fyffe carpark follow the 4WD road up the mountain’s long south-west ridge.

The road goes right to the summit; a return journey of about eight hours.

Those wanting a shorter journey could go as far as Mt Fyffe Hut (five hours return) or the lookout point near a firepond, which is just an hour above the carpark. The Spaniard Spur Route offers a steeper alternative route to the upper mountain via the Kowhai River.

16 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

Mountain bikes are permitted on the Mt Fyffe Track. It is very steep; both the ascent and descent will challenge those who try it. Stay in control of your bike and give way to walkers.

Mt Fyffe Hut

Category: Standard Facilities: Eight bunk beds, heating, mattresses, toilets - non-flush, water from tap - not treated, boil before use Bookings not required - first come, first served

Hinau Track

Time: 45 minute loop The Hinau Loop Track also starts at the Mt Fyffe carpark. It is a 45-minute loop through an unusual forest with a number of large hinau trees.

There are also many mahoe, putaputaweta, broadleaf, tree fuchsia and pigeonwood. For a contrast in vegetation the track passes through a stand of kanuka. Classified as ‘walking track’, the Hinau Track is well formed and suitable for families, however, there is an unbridged stream which in normal conditions is easy to navigate.

Kowhai-Hapuku Circuit

Time: Two to three days This rugged two to three day trip over Kowhai Saddle is typical Kaikōura backcountry. It is classi-

- 2022

(four hours).

Heading upstream from the roadside, make your way up the unmarked braided riverbed for the first two hours until you start to enter the narrowing deep Hapuku Gorge. At this point look for the track entry point on the true right taking you through mature bush around the gorge. The track has been re-routed around a slip to provide safer travel.

The track drops down into the river again and earthquake damage is evident with some rock fall sections and several river crossings on the way to the hut which is situated on the true right.

Hapuku Hut to Kowhai Hut (six hours). Leaving the Hapuku Hut, the track crosses to the true left and follows the river through sections of mature bush and tōtara up to the bush edge where marker poles lead up largely open scree to the saddle which at 1153 m, the highest point of the tramp. Care is advised over this section as weather conditions can change quickly.

From the saddle, the track descends a semi open creek of rock, tussock and hebe scrub. Follow the marker poles to an entry point on the true left where the track descends quickly through a mixture of scrub and mountain tōtara and very rough creek bed until you meet the true Kowhai River which you cross to the true right, the hut is then a short distance further on. This section from the saddle down to the Kowhai Hut is the most challenging.

Kowhai Hut to Mt Fyffe car park (three hours). After leaving the hut, the track crosses to the true left and is markedly different to the terrain above the hut, sections have suffered flood damage, but entry markers lead along a relatively flat track through mānuka to the junction of www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

New Zealand Walks

the Spaniard Spur Track.

From here, the track is largely unmarked as you follow the braided river out through patches of buddleia to the Mt Fyffe car park.

Kowhai Hut

Category: Standard Facilities: 6 bunk beds, heating, mattresses, toilets - non-flush, water from tap - not treated, boil before use Bookings not required - first come, first served

Hapuku Hut

Category: Standard Facilities: 6 bunk beds, heating, mattresses, toilets - non-flush, water from stream Bookings not required - first come, first served

Fyffe-Palmer Track

Time: One hour 45 minute return The Fyffe-Palmer Track leads from the end of Mt Fyffe Road, initially following poles across farmland to the regenerating forest of Fyffe-Palmer Scenic Reserve.

Getting there Kaikōura is on State Highway 1 along the South Island east coast. It is 154 km south of Picton and 183 km north of Christchurch. Regular bus and train services pass through the town.

Mt Fyffe carpark is about 15 km from town via Ludstone, Swamp and finally Postman’s Roads. To get to Fyffe-Palmer Scenic Reserve drive out of town on Ludstone Road; turn right onto Mt Fyffe Road and follow it to its end. The Hapuku road end is 3 km along Parson’s Road which leaves State Highway 1, 10 km north of town. An on-demand shuttle service is available to these places.

Know before you go The Seaward Kaikōuras and Mt Fyffe should not be taken lightly.

Even for a short walk to the lookout on Mt Fyffe on a fine day, a windbreaker is necessary.

All backcountry visitors should seek detailed advice and leave their intentions with someone reliable. Always carry warm, waterproof clothing and plenty of food. Remember www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

your safety is your responsibility.

Nature and conservation Geology Geologically this area is young and unstable. In many places the bedrock has been exposed by slips and the layered, once horizontal rocks can be seen, twisted incredibly by massive upheaval over millions of years.

Huge volumes of rock have spewed out of the mountains to create the short plain that connects the mainland to Kaikōura Peninsula.

Flora and fauna The high ranges are home to some animals usually associated with much warmer habitats: a native snail, three species of giant weta and the endemic Kaikōura black-eyed gecko.

The vegetation varies greatly with the terrain, from riverbed and flat to mountain slope and alpine basin.

Diversity is also added as vegetation recovers from slips of different ages.

The original river flats vegetation would have been podocarp forest (matai, miro, totara and rimu). Beech forest is largely absent; instead Hall’s totara and mountain celery pine dominate the mountain slopes below a fringe of sub-alpine shrubs.

A number of shrubby plants such as pink broom, Marlborough rock

daisy and the New Zealand lilac occur in Southern Marlborough but nowhere else.

Uwerau Nature Reserve protects the world’s largest colony of Hutton’s shearwater. Each early summer, when snow still lies on the ground, thousands of them fly to their tussock ‘city in the sky’ to mate.

During this time they are often seen feeding near the coast.

Other birdlife in the mountains includes the brown creeper, tomtit, robin, bellbird, rifleman, wood pigeon, falcon and kea. The large areas of regenerating forest provide a rich supply of insect food for the smaller birds.

History In 1843 Scottish-born Robert Fyffe started the first whaling station at Kaikōura. Six years later he introduced the first sheep and milking goats to Kaikōura. In 1854 he was joined by his cousin George who leased an area north of Kaikōura known as the ‘Mt Fyffe Run’ — thus Mt Fyffe was named.

Dog access Dogs with a DOC permit only.

Opposite page above: 360 degree views from the top of My Fyffe.

Above: The track up Mt Fyffe. Photos Yvonne van Eerden.

Ouch! Sore feet while walking?

Hikers Wool is 100% New Zealand wool. Cushion your feet to prevent pain, rubbing and blisters.

Buy online or at selected stockists For more info visit www.hikerswool.co.nz Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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Photo Contest

We are looking for the best digital photos each month depicting walking Now the time to get your digital camera out or look through your digital images and enter the

Walking New Zealand Digital Photo Contest

Above: Cyclists and walkers on the track that follows the banks of the Waikato River through the heart of Hamilton. The walk offers great views of the Waikato River and there are park benches and grassy areas along the track for those who want to sit and watch the boats, birds and people go by.

Photo by Claire Woodhall, Havelock North.

The image could be a scenic scene, a walk on the beach with the dog, a bush walk, a street walk or anything walking that takes your fancy.

The rules are simply: there must be a person or persons walking in the picture either front, side or back on, and can be in the distance. We require an emailed image in high resolution mode, in jpeg format as an attachment, and NOT embedded in Word or in the email, and NOT a link to a website to be downloaded.

The subject line must have the words “Walking New Zealand Photo Contest” and the email must include the NAME, POSTAL ADDRESS and phone number of the person who took the photo and a small caption.

In this contest ONLY ONE emailed photo accepted per month. Entry in the contest automatically allows us to print the image. The person who has their photo published will receive a six month subscription or a renewal to Walking New Zealand magazine of six months. If a picture is chosen for the cover page the person will receive a 12 month subscription or renewal.

Email your entries to: walkingnz@xtra.co.nz with s u b j e c t l i n e “ Wa l k i n g N e w Z e a l a n d P h o t o C o n t e s t ” Only EMAILED entries will be accepted.

PHOTO CONTEST

18Walking Walking Zealand, issue no 290 - 2022 18 NewNew Zealand, issue no 290 - 2022

Above:The children enjoy a swim in the pools under the Moria Arch Cave, Oparara Valley, West Coast of the South Island. .A beautiful area with several walks and caves, after a hot 17 km drive on the winding metal road. Photo by: Meryl Finlayson, Waiuku.

Below left: Brothers Lucas and Duncan Kengmana pausing on their walk in Tiritiri Matangi. Photo

by Mary-Pat Kengmana,, Tauranga. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Photo Contest

A b ov e : B u d d i n g j u n i o r trampers at Kulim Park Tauranga. Photo by Kyle Parker of Tauranga.

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

PHOTO CONTEST

Below right: A solo tramp on the Tongariro Northern Circuit. The photo was taken halfway between Oturere Hut and Waihohonu Hut with Mt Ruapehu in the background. Photo by Calum Rogers, Morrinsville.

Below left: The Bridge to Alice Nash Hut - Jebi, Menaka and Denise on the Bridge to Alice Nash Hut. Photo by Judith O’Leary, Upper Hutt.

Walking New Zealand, 290 2022 - 2022 19 19 Walking New Zealand, issueissue no no 290-

New Zealand Walks

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TURNING POINTS

By Phillip Donnell

M

ost of us can identify specific junctures in life when we turned 180° and headed in the opposite direction. It may be that we decided to completely transform our diet, or pursue a totally different career, jettisoned a bad habit in favour of a good one, or headed away from a storm rather than towards it while out walking!

In terms of our inner landscape, most religions view this as part and parcel of the concept of repentance from past flaws and failures.

Cape Turnagain is a prominent headland on the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island, part way

between Hawke Bay and Cook Strait, between the mouths of the Porangahau and Ākitio rivers.

The Māori name for Cape Turnagain is Te Aho a Māui, which means “Māui’s fishing line”, in reference to the mythology story of Māui and his brothers fishing up the land mass now known as the North Island. Cape Turnagain is 650 kilometres north-west of Chatham Island, making it the nearest point of mainland New Zealand.

The Cape was named by Captain James Cook. After the tragic skirmish when trying to land in Poverty Bay Above Dunes at Cape Turnagain.

Below: The cliffs at Cape Turnagain.

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20 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

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New Zealand Walks

(9 October, 1769), he sailed south to this point, where he was met with atrocious sea conditions, typical of the area.

Being unable to safely proceed, he decided to turn and head north, pausing at Tolaga Bay and Anaura Bay before rounding East Cape to Mercury Bay. After a week in the Bay of Islands, he rounded the top of the North Island in a storm, and sailed down its west coast.

On 15 January 1770 Cook brought the Endeavour to anchor at Ship Cove in Queen Charlotte Sound at the top of the South Island. From a high point on Arapawa Island he gained his first view of the narrow strait that now bears his name. Sailing through the strait, he proceeded north up the Wairarapa coast until reaching the same point as some months earlier, thereby confirming that the North Island was indeed an island.

Cook then turned southwards and, bearing in mind that he had previously altered course at exactly the same spot, he gave the prominent landmark a name that reflected his decisions.

After that, Cook sailed south down the east coast of the South Island and round the southern tip of Stewart Island.

Head a little south from the longest place name in the world (some 85 letters) near Porangahau, turn left towards Herbertville (with its ubiquitous rustic pub), and you will soon find yourself on the coast. Just before the bridge into Herbertville, veer left along Tuatane Road for a few kilometres.

Park the car and head for the beach.

Turn left and within 90 minutes or so (best at low tide) you will find yourself at the very rugged headland that Cook saw and named. It’s just one highlight of many in the remote southeastern corner of the North Island.

Footsteps Walking of Aotearoa New Zealand exists to help you enjoy such highlights without blowing the budget. Their Wild and Winsome Wairarapa excursion (13-19 November, 2022) begins in Napier and ends in Wellington, enabling you to undertake the very best short walks in the region.

These include visits to the largest mainland gannet colony in the world (Cape Kidnappers); NZ’s second largest pa (Otatara); a tiny town with no less than 11 registered historic buildings (Ongaonga); the magnificent littoral and lighthouse at Castlepoint;

the stunning cliff-lined cleft of Patuna Chasm; the most extensive “Badlands” or hoodoo formations in NZ (Putangirua); the wild and wind-swept beaches of Palliser Bay; a rail crossing that was unique in the world (Remutaka); and the “Lord of the Rings” Rivendell film set at Kaitoke.

It’s an incredible opportunity to experience some of the most unique and beautiful places in the Tararua and Wairarapa districts.

For full information visit the Footsteps website www.footstepswalkingclub.com. You can contact them at 021 172 3244 or footstepsanz@gmail. com. They welcome your enquiry and would love to have you join them on one of their week-long day-walking adventures! Such an experience could even become a turning point in your own life journey!

Above Herbertville Beach.

Below left: The gannets at Cape Kidnappers.

FOOTSTEPS OFFERING THE BEST DAY WALKS IN 20 REGIONS OF NEW ZEALAND!

Each region has a week-long package (for 6-10 people), including transport and accommodation.

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

21

New Zealand Walk

Routeburn Track an ultimate alpine adventure

By Daniel Haddock

W

e want to do the Routeburn, said the young Auckland couple in May, 2021.

Okay, but if I’m going down there, I’d like to do the Kepler as well, replied their Gold Card plus seven years friend from Havelock North. We can only do one of the walks because of work.”

“That’s Okay, I’ll make the bookings for all of us”.

So all the ground work was done

by June, 2021 in terms of huts, flights, accommodation, and transport.

However, Covid lockdowns in Auckland intervened as well as a new job for one of the Jaffas which would not release her on the required dates.

So I was now on my own. Oh well, the huts were fully booked so as usual friendships would develop along the way.

On December 10,2021 I flew to Queenstown, left my pack at the Nomad Office for the 4:00 bus to Glenorchy.

It was brilliant to have a few hours in this gem in Te Wai Pounamu’s crown. So there was checking in at the DOC office to be done, then to Ferg Burgers for lunch. The waterfront walkway and the Botanical Gardens on a sunny day were magic!

22 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

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There were only three of us on the Nomad bus. The other two were starting the Routeburn that night. We had informative comments from the Aussie driver as we motored along to the top of Lake Wakatipu to Glenorchy where we had a short break.

Of course we walked to the Red Shed and took the customary photos.

Eventually we reached the intersection with the road to Kinlock Lodge where I got off.

Toni from the Lodge picked me up.

A last night in a bed, a home-cooked tea and breakfast seemed a good idea six months earlier and so it proved.

It rained all night and the clouds had swallowed the mountain ranges by morning. Blueberry pancakes with homemade apple syrup (yum) and a bowl of berries set me up for the first day on the Routeburn.

John, the other half of the management team, took me to the shelter as the mist began to lift. It turns out he used to work in Sunderland where my wife was brought up.

Rock and Flow on the Routeburn, Dec. 11-13th Day 1, Routeburn Shelter to Routeburn Falls Hut, three to four hours, 9.8 km.

The shelter was well-appointed with display boards about the local iwi and the history of the area. After www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

New Zealand Walk

a quick check of all equipment which was almost 14 kg. to carry, off I went at 10 am. following a few groups that could be seen in the distance.

The Routeburn River ruled the day with a constant roaring song and numerous, stunning waterfalls. A warm mist descended on the surrounding area but it never rained.

A few swing bridges shook, rattled and rolled like a Disney ride making your first steps on terra firma feel like you just ‘spent six months in a leaky boat’ (Split Enz) especially at my age.

There was a crowd on the bridge up ahead as the Bridal Veil Falls stopped people in their tracks with its Cataract of Lodore impression (“Dividing and gliding and sliding” … Robert Southey).

Along the trail water was dripping everywhere stimulating the moss to cover everything. Distant rumblings signalled a new set of rapids and falls.

There were lots of trampers striding out in both directions on the trail.

For the first one and a half hours, the tree-covered trail featured steeply descending, serrated edges which fell to the river below.

Then the trail opened up to the grassy Routeburn Flats and the sign to the hut and campsite there. From that junction, a steady climb began through the beech forest to Falls Hut. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

About 15 minutes from the hut, when a voice hidden in the bush called out I was like a deer in the head lights.

It was Tom, the DOC warden, working on the side of the trail.

“I’m the one whose booking was stuffed up for tonight. The Queenstown office talked to you yesterday.”

No worries, there are plenty of mattresses. Later on at the hut, he said there had been late cancellations, so I could just choose a bunk.

The Routeburn Falls Hut appeared from its bushy shroud in all its wellconstructed majesty. By now the mist had closed in and a thick bank of cloud hugged the rail looking outwards from the hut.

Choosing a bunk and leaving my gear there, I revelled in shedding the 14 kg pack and heading up the stairs outside to view the falls.

The helipad at the top reminded us of the role aerial support played in building the hut facilities and in continuing to provide emergency transport when required.

The rolling and tumbling water put its hand up for being the best waterfall in New Zealand. Gushing over the top of the ridge, the water cascaded to the chasm below. This was clearly the parent to all the baby waterfalls we had seen on the way up. The nonexistent view beyond the hut veranda persisted as I crawled off to take a grandad nap in my bottom bunk.

The shouting echoed later throughout the complex….

-The cloud has cleared. You won’t believe the views.

The sun shone on snow- topped craggy ranges above sprawling verdant valleys as far as the eye could see.

Opposite page below left: Into the mist towards the Falls Hut, Above left: The clouds begin to lift at the Falls Hut. Above right: Just love these Routeburn Falls!

Below right Rolling and tumbling Routeburn.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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New Zealand Walk

Routeburn Track an ultimate alpine adventure I found a rocky nook and curled into it like a lizard to soak up the returning warmth. So this is what we had been missing. The Falls Hut was built between cascading rushes of water, jagged Humboldt peaks and pictureperfect, stream-strewn flats.

Waterfalls were glistening, Sleigh bells were ringing. After all it was close to Christmas and we had just been given a magnificent present!

Warden Tom from Scotland gave his evening talk saying that he felt right at home in an area that had so many Scottish names, Route burn, Invercargill, Strath-Taieri, Ben Ohau, Glenorchy, Leith, Ben Nevis,etc.

Put your boots under your bed, so the keas don’t chew them to bits! Then he went and talked to everyone about their plans, etc.

The famous Southland twilight lasted long into the evening only nine days from the longest day.

Day 2, Routeburn Falls Hut to Lake Mackenzie Hut, 4 hours 30 mintes-6 hours, 11.3 km.

A cold misty morning greeted us.

At 7 am, I left ascending the steep, rocky climb behind the hut to the top

24 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

of the falls thankful for my Peruvian woolen hat which covered my ears.

There was a quick change from bush to alpine environs.

The trees receded to be replaced by mountain daisies, hebes, and succulents. Tarns and Lake Harris dotted the landscape as you climbed to the Tarahaka Whakatipu,/Harris Saddle high point at 1,255 metres having started from the shelter yesterday at 500 metres.

A kea buzzed overhead, then landed on a wood pile and posed for a series of photos ruffling its feathers, turning and twisting. Reluctantly I pushed on to the shelter as the wind picked up.

The trails were solid, jagged and rocky demanding attention. We had to duck under a rock arch to carry on towards the shelter.

Rapid footsteps approached as a hardy trail runner cruised by with light clothing and minimal supplies.

The Harris Shelter was a welcome sanctuary where two Canadian teachers from the falls hut were enjoying a break from the wind.

A father and son had arrived earlier and recounted their harrowing experience on the Milford Track earlier that year. They were told they could walk out by the rangers after others had been flown out due to flooding.

Numerous river crossings ensued with the 12-year-old struggling through the rising water at chest height.

At the Harris Saddle we had crossed from Mt. Aspiring National Park into Fiordland National Park. Thankful for the break, we pushed back into the wind after putting on another layer.

Tarns dotted the landscape.

DOC ensured a safer descent to Lake Mackenzie, 500 metres below the Harris Saddle, by having provided small bridges, wooden steps and walkways. Valleys began to appear as the thick cloud was burnt off by increasing sunlight. Soon we welcomed another gear change as summer announced itself again.

Waterfalls accompanied our descent as the trail skirted the side of the ‘exposed Hollyford Face, with expan-

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sive views over the Darran Mountains’ (DOC pamphlet).

Mt Cook lilies, Great Mountain buttercup, mountain daisy and edelweiss were sprinkled around the hillsides.

A shimmering emerald gem materialised in the distance, Lake Mackenzie.

Now the fun began with rocky, undulating switchbacks slowing progress. The final kilometres plunged through thick ribbon wood, with water rivulets making the path greasy.

Eventually the hut came into view, nestled into bush on the lake’s edge.

Brilliant sunshine all afternoon meant many of us had a swim in the cold, refreshing water followed by sunbathing on the grassy verge surrounded by snow-capped mountains.

Below left: Enjoying the spectacular view before dropping down to Lake Mackenzie.

Below right: The Earland Falls featured on the last day of the Routeburn.

Opposite page: The verdant valley below Falls Hut.

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

New Zealand Walk

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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New Zealand Walk

Routeburn Track an ultimate alpine adventure

Enjoying the spectacular view before dropping down to Lake Mackenzie.

26 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290 - 2022

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

New Zealand Walk

There was a constant ebb and flow of arrivals and departures each day indicating the different schedules certain trampers had followed. One said she came from the Routeburn Shelter to the Mackenzie Hut, then to the Divide and now was on her way back to the Shelter in a 66 km. round-trip.

Evan took the warden’s talk and proceeded at length to outline the historical destruction of native bird life in the area by stoats and rats in particular. The kiwi population decreased by 3% annually due to these predators.

Evan’s trap campaign meant that “no stoats had been seen around here for eight years”. 1000 traps have been placed over 6000 hectares. A National Trust had been set up, NZ Nature Fund, to continue this work.

Above left: Curious Kea drops into have a look Below right: The first of many bridges over the Routeburn..

Below left: Hard to get under the rock bridge with a pack on the way to the Harris Saddle.

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Day 3, Lake Mackenzie Hut to The Divide, 4 hours-5 hours 30 minutes, 12 km.

The more pork calls last night sounded differently to those in Hawkes Bay. Maybe they roll their ‘Rs’ as well. I had moved down to the kitchen area to sleep on some cushions as the person across from my bunk had a hacking cough and snore fest all night.

The day had dawned cloudy and misty. The forecast was for rain as I took off at 7 a.m. along the rocky path with short, sharp climbs and descents the whole way. I walked the second half with Chris, the chef from the Ultimate Hikes Lodge near the DOC hut.

He had a great story about working at a Tanzinian Lodge near the Serengeti the last few years before having recently returned to New Zealand..

We scrambled through the boulders skirting the showery, flowing Earland Falls (174 metres).

It began to drizzle during the last hour and there was a series of waterfalls and bridges to cross. We decided not to detour to Key Summit near trail’s end as the visibility would have been poor. We reached the Divide Shelter around 11 a.m. Chris’s bus came soon after we arrived. My Track Net Bus wasn’t due until 3 p.m. It was raining steadily now and the sand flies were a nuisance.

Unexpected trip to Milford Sound A Track Net bus pulled up soon after to drop of trampers at the Divide and I talked to the driver.

I’m booked at 3 pm for the trip to Te Anau.

“This is the same bus that’s coming back here, do you want to come to pick up passengers at Milford Sound?” asked the driver.

Well it didn’t take long to say yes. I was joined by two Wellington women who just entered the shelter and had started the Routeburn on the same day as I did. They had never been to Milford so away we went.

The driver kept us informed the whole way especially about the 2020 storm that dumped 3000 mm in 24 hours. The damage was still evident and road works were continuing.

Keas kept us entertained as we

waited to enter the Homer Tunnel.

One flew from the top of our bus to the wing mirror of the car in front and had a go at the rubber lining.

We were dropped at the café opposite the Fiordland Shoreline Walk which led to the Visitor Centre. We had an hour until we met back at the bus. Wow, hot food we didn’t have to cook sure tasted nice! The shoreline walk was dotted with informative signs. Despite the poor visibility, it was still picturesque.

We later got on the bus with the Milford passengers and headed back to the Divide to pick up the rest of the Routeburn trampers from our group.

I went to check the shelter to see if I had left my Sandfly repellent there.

As I stepped out of the bus, one the trampers said,” Hey, I recognise that guy. How did he get on that bus?”

We made our way to Te Anau dropping people off along the way. The Routeburn was a stunning slice of New Zealand magic!!

Next issue will be our experiences of walking the Kepler Track making it a “double happy”.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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Australian Walks

Five great

A

ustralia is a continent within a country, with ultra-diverse landscapes including deserts, mountain ranges, woodlands, grasslands, and even rainforests in the northeast.

This makes it a fantastic destination for walkers of all levels.

Whether you’re looking for a challenging trek or an easy stroll, you’ll find many available in a variety of stunning locations.

Here, we’ve collected five of the best walks in Australia, focussing on one-day walks that are reasonably accessible for most active people, with a range of difficulty levels.

Tongue Point Walk, Victoria

Wilsons Promontory, the scenic peninsula that forms the southernmost tip of mainland Australia, is a 3 hour drive from Melbourne and has many excellent walks. The walk from Darby River up to Tongue Point has wonderful coastal views of the local islands and beaches, and great opportunities to see local flora and fauna.

At about 9km, the route is not overly long, but it does feature some steep sections that might be challenging for some walkers. Al-

28 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

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Above left: At Tongue Point.

Middle left: Coastal views from Tongue Point.

Below left: Fascinating sights in the Kalberri National Park. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Australian Walks

walks in Australia low at least four hours, so you can stop to rest and admire the stunning views.

Nature’s Window, Western Australia

The eponymous attraction of this popular walk in Kalbarri National Park is a classic Instagram spot.

Tourists of all kinds love to snap themselves standing in front of the sandstone window framing the classic view of Murchison River. However, there are fascinating sights to be seen all along this 8km loop walk.

The National Park is a six hour drive away from Perth. If you’re planning to visit, staying in one of the several excellent hotels in the nearby beach resort for a day or two is your best option—driving there and back plus the walk would be a very long day indeed.

Mt Gower Trek, Lord Howe Island, New South Wales

At 14km return with a whole lot of climbing and no clear trail, this is

Above The walk around the base of Uluru.

definitely the most challenging walk on our list. In fact, it’s compulsory to do it with a guide. However, it’s a true classic and we could not leave it out.

Visiting Lord Howe Island requires a dedicated journey, usually a flight from Sydney. However, the rewards are ample. The climb, amid rare plants and wildlife, is fascinating, made more so by the knowledgeable guides. And when you reach the summit—a fascinating place to explore due to the unusual moss forest—the view will take your breath away.

Hartz Peak, Tasmania

The view from the top of Hartz Peak is a true classic—a stunning panorama of mountains, valleys, and lakes. Considering the true feeling of wilderness you get, it’s also surprisingly accessible—a 90-minute drive from Hobart will get you to the start of the trail.

The walk itself is 8km with 400m of climbing, and while that will sound relatively straightforward to a seasoned hiker, you shouldn’t

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

29

Australian Walks

forget that you’re starting out at quite a high altitude, in the middle of a mountain range. Equip yourself properly, and don’t start out if you’re unsure of the weather conditions.

Uluru Base Walk, Northern Territory

Five great walks in Australia Above: Mt Gower, Lord Howe Island.. Below: Hartz Peak, Tasmania.

30 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

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Uluru needs no introduction; the name alone evokes images of the mighty sandstone monolith. Situated in the centre of Australia, Uluru has its own airport, which can be reached from Sydney, Brisbane, Melbourne, Darwin, or Adelaide (but not Canberra).

The walk is an approximately 10km trail that will take you all around the base of the great rock, allowing you to take in the atmosphere and surprising diversity of this unique location.

There’s no real climbing involved, but don’t underestimate the heat—take plenty of water, dress appropriately, start out early in the morning, and allow at least 4 hours.

Want to discover more about locations in Australia and around the world? Head over to CrowdsourcedExplorer.com, where locals share tips, advice, and information about the places they live.

To date, the community has gathered information about over 5,000 locations worldwide.

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

New Zealand Walks

Fascinating walks around Golden Bay and beyond

I

n February we spent five days exploring the short walks in the north west of the South island, around Takaka and beyond.

This area is fascinating. – golden sands, huge dunes, lovely beaches, beautiful bush, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, caves, tramping and cycling trails, the largest cold water spring in the world, remnants of history, and loads of wildlife.

Staying in Takaka, our first adventure was to Labyrinth Rocks – a maze-like pathway amongst natural rock sculptures and native trees.

This area of limestone boulders, was discovered by a geologist – Dave Whittaker, in 1994.

He cleared it and formed pathways through and between the rocks.

Tiny figures and animals have been placed on ledges in cracks and under branches to make it a discovery trail for kids. The area is now maintained by ’Friends of Labyrinth Rocks’ and Tasman District Council. It’s a bit of fun and you can easily lose yourself in there for an hour.

Next we went to Rawhiti (or Man-

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

sons) Cave, 7kms from Takaka, via Motupipi, Glenview and Packard Roads. From the car park, a marked route leads up the valley for 30 minutes, then turns right, and continues steeply for another half hour. The entrance, seen from a viewing platform, is the most diverse and extensive of any cave in New Zealand. It is simply stunning.

This cave has unusual twilight zone flora, which influences the growth of calcium, so stalactites on the ceiling grow out towards the sunlight.

Our next walk was to Waikoropupu Springs. These are the largest fresh water springs in the southern hemisphere, and contain some of the clearest water ever measured. In the past, they were a place of ceremonial blessings, at times of birth or death.

The springs are set in a reserve that also protects both mature and regenerating bush, and old gold workings. It was an interesting half hour wander.

A little further up Pupu Valley Road (9kms from Takaka) you will find Pupu Hydro Walk. This lovely two hour loop walk retraces an old gold mining water race, which has been re used for power supply. The race, part canal and part aqua duct was originally built in 1901/2 to provide water pressure for gold sluices to work the river gravels.

It was abandoned in 1910 but in 1929 Golden Bay Electric Power

By Barbz Lowther

Board built a small power station using part of the race. This lasted about 50 years before closing, but was reopened in 1988 after restoration by the Pupu Hydro Society and many volunteer groups in Golden Bay. In 2003 the walkway was opened.

Above Fossil Point at the base of Farewell Spit.

Below right: Pupu Hydro Walk – A slice of history .

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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New Zealand Walks

Fascinating walks around Golden Bay and beyond The walk starts along a leaf strewn trail under beech and rimu, with lots of ferns and mosses, including the tallest moss in the world. The track soon zig-zagged uphill through rocky terrain and mature podocarps to reach the water race, where it levelled out, following the race for about 3 kms to a lookout above the power station.

In another half hour you reach the weir, and from here you return on a vehicle track. This is a really interesting walk with a big slice of history,

32 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

and can be walked in either direction.

We then moved to base at Pakawau Holiday Park to explore the west coast and Farewell Spit. Our first walk was in to Kaihoka lakesTinawhu and Whupa. These lakes started as basins in the dunes, with no drainage paths, so over time, water accumulated. Neither lake has any inflow or outflow, so their levels are controlled by rainfall, seepage and evaporation.

A short walk leads through nikau, matai and kahikatea beside

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one lake, and slopes down to the second. There are lots of Canadian Geese, ducks, and shags living amongst the reeds and bull Above left: Rawhiti Cave entrance – one of the most diverse and extensive entrances, Above right: Negotiating a slip on the way to Kaituna Forks.

Below left: The Wainui Falls. Below right: Waikoropupu Springs,the largest spring in the s. hemisphere 6 km from Takaka.

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New Zealand Walks

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

We chose to ‘walk and drive’ so we could see all the ‘special spots’. We walked along the inner beach to the 4 wheel drive track, crossed the spit to the ocean side and walked down to Fossil Point- a fascinating area where the land drops from sandstone cliffs to coastal sands. Fossilised shells and worms can be seen in the blocks of mudstone fallen from the cliffs.

There were lots of oyster catchers and large gulls in this area.

We returned on Puponga farm track and drove on to Pillars Point Lighthouse. You can walk along the

.

rushes. It is a lovely tranquil area.

From here we drove to Triangle Flat car park at the base of Farewell Spit or Onetahua (heaped up sand) This spit, running west to east is the largest in New Zealand stretching 26kms above sea level and another 6 kms under water. It is created by eroded quartz and granite from rocks further south, being swept up by currents in the Tasman Sea. It is about a km wide with shifting dunes up to 30 metres high.

The northern side of these dunes are steep and unstable, but the south side facing Golden Bay has some scrubby vegetation. Here, the tide can recede 7 kms, exposing lots of mudflats, a trap for the frequently stranded pilot whales.

A lighthouse was built near the end in 1870, and replaced by the only steel lighthouse in New Zealand in 1897. The Spit is now administered

by DOC as a seabird and wildlife reserve, and you can only visit on a bus tour.

From Triangle car park, there are several walking options, ranging from half an hour to several hours.

Above: Cape Farewell – the most northerly point in the South Island.

Below right: A cave at Wharariki Beach.

Puponga Cliff top walk for an hour to reach here, or 15 minutes climb from the road below. The coastal views are spectacular. Behind the lighthouse are the ruins of one of the first radar stations in New Zealand built during WWII. Not far from here, is Cape Farewell, a rocky headland of quartz and sandstone cliffs, eroded to

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

33

New Zealand Walks

Fascinating walks around Golden Bay and beyond

Above left: On the Pupu Hydro Walk. Above right: Pillars Point lighthouse.

Above: On the way to Wainui Falls. Below left: Archway Islands – Wharariki Beach. Below right: Seal pup at Wharariki Beach.

34 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

- 2022

form an archway. This is the most northerly point in the south island, lying just west of Farewell Spit and approximately in line with Foxton in the North Island. It was named by Captain Cook in 1770 as he left New Zealand to go to Australia.

Our next walk was to Wharariki Beach. From the car park, we walked 20 minutes over farmland and coastal forest, to a spectacular coast of enormous sand dunes, caves, islands, archways, and seals playing in the waves. It was just stunning !

We wandered down the beach exploring caves and arches. The archway islands are a group of four rock stacks, two containing arches.

In one cave we surprised a mother seal and her pup, but I don’t know who had the biggest surprise, when she gave a warning bark we backed out fast.

The following day we drove to the end of Carters Road – off the Bainham Road, to the Kaituna Track.

This old pack horse track follows the river, leading past the remains

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

New Zealand Walks

of sluicing operations, water races and tailing piles. This gold field was worked from 1859 to the 1880’s but little gold was recovered.

The trail was shaded by tall mahoe, rata and kamahi, with a lower canopy of nikau and ferns. There were lots of tomtits, robins and fantails flitting around close to the track, and of course wekas, never far away.

Bellbirds, tuis and kereru kept their distance.

We continued on towards ‘the Forks’. Not far from there is an enormous slip, so a detour and a bit of scrambling is needed. Beyond the forks, the track is just a route, but work is in progress to extend the trail to Knuckle hill. It’s a really pretty walk.

From there we drove past Langfords Store, the oldest grocery store in New Zealand and then on to Salisbury Historic Bridge and waterfall.

Not much is left of the bridge, but there are lovely swimming holes by the falls.

Heading back east, we called in at Mussel Inn to try their famous chowder,then drove to Pohara for our last night. That evening we explored ‘The Grove’- a labyrinth of intriguing rock formations, some over 400 million years old.

In amongst these limestone outcrops and karst walls were giant pohutukawas, and nikaus, and clinging to the rocks, northern rata.

Walking through a cleft in the rocks, you reach a platform built out on the cliff face. From here you look over the lower Takaka valley, and on a clear day, out to the pine trees on the tip of Farewell Spit. Although only a 15 minute walk, it is well www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

worth a look.

Our last walk was to Wainui Falls, the largest and most accessible falls in Golden Bay, only half an hour from the road.

The track starts across farmland beside the river, before climbing through forest of nikau, rata and ferns, with some steep drop offs. It is incredibly beautiful, passing many clear blue pools. Just before the falls, a suspension bridge takes you across the river. From here you can hear the falls before you see them.

From Wainui Falls it was a short ride to the northern entrance to the Abel Tasman Track – but that’s another story.

Above left: Joe pointing out the Pine trees at the tip of Farewell Spit from a viewpoint at the Grove.

Above top: The Grove – a labyrinth of ancient rock formations, 2 kms from Pohara.

Above right: Salisbury Falls.

Below right: On the Pupu Hydro Walk.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

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New Zealand Guided Walks

Going guided on the

36 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

- 2022

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

New Zealand Guided Walks

Paparoa Trail www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Along the Paparoa Escarpment with Hawera in the background.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

37

New Zealand Guided Walks

Going guided on the Paparoa Trail

D

oing a guided trip is not always top of your mind when thinking about a holiday in your own country. But most people won’t bat an eye to spend a day or more when on an overseas trip to have a tour guide. And why would you?

It’s a unique and often once-in-alifetime opportunity to see amazing sights and gain a greater understanding of an area, its people, culture and history. It can intensify the enjoyment and memories of your

holiday.

Why should it be different in New Zealand, especially when it comes to outdoor activities? No matter how experienced an outdoors person you are – at tramping or climbing – a guide can help you achieve more in a day than you would otherwise be able to do on your own.

For less experienced people, a guide can provide a safe and more comfortable experience – and that’s important if you want to explore an unfamiliar

.

By Edward Cochrane

environment or attempt something entirely new.

Paparoa Guided Walks aims to either introduce people to multi-day hikes, or improve their skill level and confidence, in a safe and responsible manner. Paparoa Guided Walks puts Kaitiakitanga (guardianship and protection) of our natural environment at the forefront of business operations.

We believe there is a deep kinship between humans and the natural world, and being able to educate clients on the fundamental principles of Kaitiakitanga while in a remote wilderness setting will have positive effects on the way in which clients see their current relationship with Papatūānuku (mother earth) both now and into the future.

Enrichment of our guests’ lives comes from the services we provide - from the form, rhythm, and renewing qualities of the beautiful Above: View of Aoeraki / Mount Cook from Croesus Knob.

Below left: Southern Paparoa Range, between Ces Clark and Moonlight Tops Hut.

38 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

- 2022

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

New Zealand Guided Walks

and wild places in which we work.

Simply being out in nature awakens a part of us that’s gone dormant from living around artificial lights, the noise of civilization, the demands of daily life, and a lack of wide open spaces. Our commitment is to run unforgettable hiking trips, and those are important words to us.

Our goal is that the experience that Paparoa Guided Walks creates will stick with clients for years to come, and every time you think back on it you feel a sense of fulfilment, inspiration, and accomplishment.

And even more importantly, we hope the trip sparks a desire to keep getting out into nature, whether it is

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

on more of our trips or on their own.

Going guided means you can experience the beauty of New Zealand’s landscapes with the support of our experienced guides. The comfort of backcountry huts and the luxury of having the details organised for you.

Our trip includes complimentary use of high quality gear, decreased

pack weight, daily breakfasts, fresh lunches and dinner prepared for you each evening. Experienced guides will provide information about native flora and fauna and give a sense of security in what often can be quite Above left: Whio at Blackball Creek.

Above right: The crystal clear waters of the Pororari River.

Below left: The Pororari River.

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

39

40 New Zealand, issue no 289 - 2022 40Walking Walking New Zealand, issue no 290 - 2022

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The Paparoa Range is a mountain range in the West Coast region of New Zealand’s/Aotearoa’s South Island of outstanding natural beauty.

It is located along the coast between the Buller and Grey Rivers, with the Inangahua River to the east.

Paparoa National Park was established in 1987 and encompasses some 430 km2 More than half the park is best described as mountainous, from the eastern edge of the syncline to the crest of the main range. On their eastern side, an assortment of hanging valleys, truncated spurs, towering bluffs and cirques overlook deep glaciated valleys running north and south.

Paparoa National Park is the overlapping point between subtropical and cool climate trees. Nikau palms, northern rata and cabbage trees give the lowland rainforest a lush, Pacific feeling. Further up, silver beech forest merges with sub alpine shrubs.

A rich diversity of alpine plants can be found along the tops of these mountainous ranges also, including tussocks and vegetable sheep, a type of cushion plant with an unusual shape to help to store water.

Higher still, daisies and gentians provide colour among the alpine tussocks. Some plants are unique to the area, suggesting that it was a botanic refuge during the ice ages Native bird habitats within the park range from on or near the www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

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coastline to the peak of the Paparoa Ranges. Several common species such as tui, bellbird, kaka, kererū and kakariki migrate from winter habitat in the lower forests to summer habitat in the upland forests.

Rarer species in the national park include the roroa/great spotted kiwi, the largest of the kiwi species.

It commonly lives in the northern South Island and can often be heard calling around the three huts on the Paparoa Track.

Another rare bird sometimes found in the park in the whio/blue duck.

Paparoa National park is also home to powelliphanta, a species of native carnivorous snail.

The Paparoa Track is a living monument to the 29 men who tragically lost their lives in The Pike River Mine on the 19th of November, 2010.

The families vision was to create The Paparoa Track as a thank you to the people of the West Coast, wider New Zealand and the world for the incredible and generous support they received during this time.

If you seek big country, new wilderness frontiers and untamed trails going guided with Paparoa Guided Walks is the adventure for you.

Website: www.paparoaguidedwalks.com Above: Moonlight Tops Hut with the Paparoa Escarpment in the background.

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Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

41

Te Araroa Trail

Little feet walk the length of New Zealand

crossing rivers.

“The first few times were tough but now we’re more experienced.

by Olivia Murray Victoria is so small so sometimes we even-year-old Victoria has been have to carry her. Aaron’s been great. walking the Te Araroa Trail It’s been great watching him grow with her family and see what he likes.” At the since late December. moment, it’s waterfalls.

She and her sibThe family have already lings Alexander walked close to 900km of (10) and Aaron (5 Te Araroa. There are no months) started the thoughts of stopping. trail with their parents Asanka and Mariya with the Cape Reinga to Paihia leg “to see if the kids could handle it,” says Asanka.

When it went well, the family decided to jump in the deep end and book flights to Invercargill to start the trail northbound. We chatted to the family on an off day before their trip to SeaWorld.

Victoria’s enjoying the trail, “Sometimes there are tough bits but I like it. Because I have small feet, it makes me have to go faster. ” One day, her Fitbit read 14km while her parents and Alexander’s only read 10km.

Ten year old Alexander said the trail is “okay”.

They both enjoyed Stag Saddle, the highest point of the trail so far..

Asanka, exclaimed it has been challenging at times, especially

S

42 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

- 2022

Above left The Asanka family.

Above right: On a beautiful sunset.

Above: On Stag Saddle highest point on the Te Araroa Trail.

Below left: High up in the hills.

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CONTENTS for previous 15 issues APRIL 289 2022

2 The Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Autumn ambles at the end of the golden weather 10 New Zealand Walk: Mirror Lakes world famous for beauty 12 Need2Know: DOC’S top five wildlife photography tips 14 New Zealand Walk: Spinnaker Lookout Walk 15 New Zealand Walk: Take a walk along Waiheke Island’s Art Tail 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 18 My Favourite Walk: Walks: Walking amongst the rock pillars of the Rock and Pillar Conservation Area 24 New Zealand Walks: Hikes and Walks out East 29 New Zealand Walk: Wairoa River Walk and Cycleway 30 New Zealand Walk: Walking through an Arboreal Ark 36 New Zealand Walk: An arboretum wau ot there?

37 New Zealand Walks: Put on your walking shoes and hit the trails 40 New Zealand Walk: The Greytown Trail an idyllic 5km walk 44 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 ECHO Walking Festival

MARCH 288 2022

2 The Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walk: St James Walkway - through pastoral land, beech forest and subalpine regions 13 New Zealand Walk: Five days four nights on the St James Walkway 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 18 Auckland Walks: Five half-day hikes around Auckland 20 My Favourite Walk: Walking around Mangere Mountain Domain 25 New Zealand Walk: Morrinsville River Walk through mature trees 26 Triple peaks 2022 - Your Summer getaway event 29 My Favourite Walk: Taking time again on Tongariro 29 New Zealand Walk: Taranaki Falls Walk with excellent mountain views 9 Subscription page 30 New Zealand Walks: Great Barrier Island Aotea Track for a bit of a challenge 35 New Zealand Short Walk: Scenic reserve for an easy short walk 36 New Zealand Walk: Discover Pelorus Sound and historic Nydia Track 42 Training: Training programme to walk a marathon 43 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Wilderness Guides

FEBRUARY 287 2022

2 Goldfields 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: White sand, green forest, brown kiwi - an island holiday like nowhere else 9 Subscription page 10 New Zealand Walks: Footprints of Toi walk, Whakatane, Bay of Plenty 12 New Zealand Walks: Nga Tapuwae o Toi Walkway 14 New Zealand Walk: Awapikopiko Reserve for a picnic and a short walk 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 18 High Achievers: The women that champion outdoor access 20 Shared Trails: Dunstan Trail links Cromwell with Clyde 24 New Zealand Walks: Waihi Beach

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to Houmanga Bay 29 New Zealand Walks: Four short walks from Waihi Beach 30 New Zealand Walks: Nowell’s Lakes Walkway where you will enjoy nature 35 Need2Know: Don’t go missing, go hiking 36 Australian Walk: Lake Hart - walking on salt 38 New Zealand Walk: Ongaonga Village - steeped in history 40 New Zealand Walks: Hacket Track a feature in Mt Richmond Forest park 43 Index of previous 14 issues 44 Manawatu Striders Super Seven Series 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Wilderness Guides

JANUARY 286 2022

2 Banks Track 3 Contents 6 News: YHA closes 11 hostels 6 Te Araroa Trail: Te Araroa walkers get creative to complete trail journey 7 New Zealand Walks: Walking through old forest in Whirinaki 13 New Zealand Walks: Ohakune walks for all fitness types 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 18 New Zealand Walks: Back to the 70-Mile Bush 22 New Zealand Walk: A walk to see fascinating geology in the Far North 24 Oversesas tours: Bike, boat and barge new tours in France 26 New Zealand Walk: Beyond Motu Falls - a magic breathing and conservation space 32 New Zealand Walks: A feast of waterfall walks in the Bay of Plenty 36 Directory of Walking Groups 40 New Zealand Walks: Ohakune Old Coach Road steeped in history 42 News: West Coast commits to stronger focus on walkers 43 Index of previous 14 issues 44 Manawatu Striders Super Seven Series 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Real Meals

NOVEMBER 284 2021

2 Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Five exhilarating walks in the Tongariro/Kaimanawa area 9 High Achiever: Ronnie gets back on the bike at age 72 10 New Zealand Walk: A Winter beach walk south of Waitarere 12 New Zealand Walk: The Pakihi Track for total seclusion 18 High Achievers: Three women take up 1000km challenge 20 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 22 High Achiever: Q&A with accommodation provider and trail legend Bill Trolove 24 High Achievers: Unlikely couple meet and live their dream 27 Need2Know: New Pocket Maps app helps walkers explore 28 New Zealand Walk: Waterfalls a feature of Upper Nihotupu Dam Walk 33 New Zealand Walk: Plans for City to Sea pathway taking shape 34 Need2Know: Everyday planning for everyday people 36 Subscription page 37 My Favourite Walks: A day tramp in Akaroa - Curry Track/Purple Peak Track 40 Event: New direction for the Front Runner Hoka Christchurch Marathon 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Goldfields Cavalcade

OCTOBER 283 2021

2 Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Queen Charlotte Track - It’s time to awaken your adventurous soul 10 New Zealand Walk: Port Ligar a truly unique experience 14 New Zealand Walk: Nikau palms and sea stacks at Point Elizabeth 16 Walking Access Commission: Trust to develop and support walking and cycling trails 17 New Zealand Walks: Over 50 walks in this year’s Waiheke Walking Festival 20 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest DECEMBER 285 2021 22 Event: Tois! Whakatane’s stunning 2 Goldfields Cavalade trail challenge 3 Contents 24 Need2Know: The faster you walk, 6 New Zealand Walks: Paparoa the better for long term health Trail: with alpine tops, limestone especially as you age karst landscapes and thriving 26 New Zealand Walks: Cobb Vally rain forests region - one of the most interest13 New Zealand Walk: More to ing in the country for trampers Explore in Kerikeri and naturalists 14 New Zealand Walks: Three 32 New Zealand Walks: Papamoa’s two interesting walks in Egmont great recreational areas National Park 36 Subscription page 20 Walking New Zealand Monthly 37 Covid-19: What you can and connot Photo Contest do in Level 3 22 High Achiever: Regeneration the 37 Book: Cheers Mate! Walkabout Bradley way in Australia 24 New Zealand Walk: Beehive Creek 38 New Zealand Walk: Pukeiti - a a zig zag through creek walk garden of national significance 26 New Zealand Walks: Summer in 42 Index of previous 14 issues the South 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 29 New Zealand Walks: A chance to 47 Coming Events: Australia walk throughout New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 30 High Achiever: Bringing the fun by 48 New Zealand Country Breaks going to work with an e-bike 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 30 New Zealand Walk: Wenderholm 52 Goldfields Cavalcade Regional Park walks for a SEPTEMBER 282 2021 workout 2 Queen Charlotte Track - Wilder32 New Zealand Walk: Lighthouse ness Guides popular with photographers 33 New Zealand Walk: Waipapa Point 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Great Walk: Great Coastal walk - for seabirds and Walks myth busting marine mammals 14 New Zealand Wlks: The best 34 Directory of Walking Groups of Opotiki: 5 easy walks in the 38 New Zealand Walks: 10 beautiful eastern Bay of Plenty walks in Queenstown 20 Walking New Zealand Monthly 42 Index of previous 14 issues Photo Contest 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 22 New Zealand Walk: Sea lionsand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours seals an attraction at Sandfly Bay. 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 24 Subscription page 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 25 Need2Know: Indoor pathways 52 Real Meals improve people’s mental wellbeing

26 Australian Walks; Murray River Safari the latest edition to Australian Wildlife Journeys 29 Banks Track 30 New Zealand Walk: Grovetown Lagoon - a great conservation effort in Marlborough 32 Overseas Walk: Explore Rarotonga’s mountainous interior 34 New Zealand Walk: Withering Heights -Tawarau Conservation area, King Country 39 Need2Know: New lookout for Bennetts Bay now open 40 High Achievers: Thames Hospital staff scrub in Hauraki Ranges 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Taupo events

AUGUST 281 2021

2 Queen Charlotte Track - Wilderness Guides 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walk: Bannockburn Sluicings NZ’s own ‘wild west’ 8 New Zealand Walk: Cable Bay Walkway for coastal views 11 New Zealand Walk/Bike: Walking and biking around Napier 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walk: Hooker Valley Track offers awe inspiring landscapes 23 Need2Know: Asking politely will protect outdoor acccess for others 24 Subscription page 25 Need2Know: Locked gates over unformed legal roads 25 Need 2Know: Walking as a sport in 1878 26 My Favourite Walk: Taking time on the Tongariro 28 Te Araroa : Q&A withTe Araroa walker and Wellington trustee John Craig 29 Banks Track 30 New Zealand Walk: Ghosts of the past: Historic trails across the Kaimai-Mamaku Park 33 Shared Pathway: Unique boardway opened in Waitara 37 My Favourite Walk: Three tramps in the Ruahine Forest Park 40 Australian Walks: Footing it in Tassie 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Taupo events

JULY 280 2021

2 Queen Charlotte Track - Wilderness Guides 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walk: Comarderie on the Whareama Coastal Walk 12 Event: Walkers see the new Manawatu Tararua Highway taking shape 14 New Zealand Walk: Rotokawa Scenic Reserve - now a predator free area 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walk: Fantail Falls an easy West Coast walk 24 Virtual field trip for school children showcases Te Araroa 24 My Favourite Walk: Linderman Loop - in the historic Kaimais 28 Around the Clubs: Clubs find advantage in sharing great walks 30 New Zealand Cycle Tour: Best Dam cycling trip in the world - Busting the 315km trail from Mt Cook to Oamaru 38 Australian Walks: Alice Springs for gorges, water holes and red desert landscapes 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Taupo event

JUNE 279 2021

2 Queen Charlotte Track - Wilderness Guides 4 Walk Talk

6 New Zealand Walk: Ship Cove walks in old swamp forests 8 New Zealand Walk: Muruwai Walk in Coromandel 10 New Zealand Walks: Somes Island - The MIQ experience 149 years ago11 New Zealand Walk: Somes Island Track 12 My Favourite Walk: Banks Peninsula Track - an unique scenic 3 day trip 14 Need2Know: Egmont National Park tracks upgraded 16 High Achiever: Havelock man’s marathon dream of link to Picton 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 Australian Walks: Ten best walks and hikes in Tasmania 24 New Zealand Walk: Gabriels Gully interpretation walk 26 Te Araroa Trail: Walking the Te Araroa Trail as a hotographer and film maker 30 New Zealand Walk: Mt Taranaki summit climb -not for the faint hearted 35 New Zealand Walk: Palliser Vineyard Walk 36 Directory of New Zealand Walking Groups 40 Subscription page 41 Index of previous 14 issues 42 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 ECHO Walking Festival 52 Taupo Marathon

MAY 278 2021

2 Pak - A - Roo Walking Jacket 4 Walk Talk 6 New Zealand Walk: Franz Josef - a must do 9 Need2Know: Health and Safety when crossing private farms 10 New Zealand Walks: Kaikoura - a popular spot for walkers 14 My Favourite Walk: Motorimu Shelter walk in the Tararuas 15 Event: Christchurch Walking Festival has many avenues for walking 16 New Zealand Walk: Tackling the Tirohanga 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 Australian Walk : Umpherston Sinkhole 22 My Favourite Walk: Western Loop Walkway for bush, river and open farmland 26 My Favourite Walk: A walk around Mangatawhiri Reservoir 30 My Favourite Walk: Counter clockwise on the Tongariro Circuit 36 Directory of New Zealand Walking Groups 42 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 ECHO Walking Festival 52 Taupo Marathon

APRIL 277 2021

2 Pak - A - Roo Walking Jacket 4 Walk Talk 6 New Zealand Walk: Omarama’s Clay Cliff spectacular landscape 8 New Zealand Walk: On a clear day you can see f o re ve r O t a w a to Otane-Wainuku Ridgeline 10 New Zealand Walk: Huatoki Domain - for a delightful walk 12 New Zealand Walk: Three coastal walks at the bottom of the South Island 14 Shared Pathway: Hikers and bikers share the Timber Trail 16 High Achievers: Te Araroa legends Ceorge Mills and Rob Firmin 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 Shared Pathway: Little River Trail Hike it, bike it like it!

25 Shared Pathway: New off road shared path gathering use 22 New Zealand Walks: Tongariro National Park short walks to suit all fitness types 32 Te Araroa Trail: New Invercargill to Bluff section, cyclists off road 32 New Zealand Walk: Rob Roy Track reopens 34My Favourite Walk: Day walks in West Coast’s Oparara Basin 34 NZ Cycling Trail: The diverse

Kaikoura Trail 35 Shared Pathway: Shared Kaikoura pathway connect loop 36 Directory of New Zealand Walking Groups 41 Index of previous 14 issues 42 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 52 Great Forest Events

MARCH 276 2021

2 Pak - A - Roo Walking Jacket 3 Contents 4 Walk Talk 6 New Zealand Walk: Tauranga to Okere Falls on a shared trail 10 New Zealand Walk: Branch Road Walkway - once an ancient Maori route 14 New Zealand Walk: Blue Pools Walk - Mt Aspitring National Park 16 Cycling Trails: New section of Alps2Ocean Cycle Trail opens 17 New Zealand Walk: Hollyford Track reopens 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 Need2Know: Motu: Magnificent isolation 24 New Zealand Walk: Alexandra to Clyde River Track - attracts both walkers and cyclists 27 New Zealand Walk:The Terrace Walk, Franz Josef 28 Auckland Walks: Take a hike on these great Auckland walks this summer 30 New Zealand Walk: Gebbies Pass to Packhorse Hut 32 New Zealand Walk: Kahikatea Country - the Pehitawa section of the Te Araroa Trail 34 NZ Cycling Trail: The diverse Kaikoura Trail 35 Shared Pathway: Shared Kaikoura pathway connect loop 36 Event: Back to the future for ASB Christchurch events 38 New Zealand Walks: Mangatoi Walkers tackle the Coromandel walks 42 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Wilderness Guides 52 Manawatu Walking Festival

FEBRUARY 275 2021

2 Pak - A - Roo Walking Jacket 3 Contents 4 Walk Talk 6 New Zealand Walk: A wander around Waiorongamai Valley 11 Te Araroa Trail: New partnerships keep track of walkers on trail 12 New Zealand Walk: Hidden treasures in Wai-O-Tapu Forest 15 Need to Know: Advantages of replacing fizzy drinks with water 16 New Zealnd Farm Walks: Hill farm walks in the Rangitikei 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 20 High Achievers: Volunteers add value to Mt Somers experience 22 New Zealand Walk: Seven walks on Mt Somers 24 New Zealand Walk:Locals proud of Kawatiri Coastal Trail 26 New Zealand Walks: Plan your next adventure with New Zealand Walks 29 High Achiever: Award to Mangawhai builder of walking tracks 30 New Zealand Walk: Happy holiday humping 37 Book: Enhanced access grant supports bikepacking Aotearoa book 38 Need2Know: Enjoying the outdoors responsibility 41 Index of previous 14 issues 42 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Wilderness Guides 52 Event: Manawatu Walking Festival

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

43

Coming Events

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44 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

- 2022

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Coming Events

Please note that because of Covid-19 some events advertised in New Zealand may be rescheduled, postponed or cancelled.

NEW ZEALAND APRIL 2022

2 Lap the Lake, South Mavora Lake, Southland 2 Cape Brett Challenge, Rawhiti near Russell 2 Middle-earth Halfling Marathon, Matamata 2 Cole Murray Cape Kidnappers Trail Run, Hygge, Clifton Bay, Hawkes Bay 3 Porirua Grand Traverse, Porirua 9 Kaituna Ridges Ramble, Havelock, Marlborough 9 Kirikiriroa Marathon, Hamilton 9 TSB ‘Vineyard Trail’ - Hawke’s Bay Havelock North, Hawkes Bay 9 Mt Oxford Odyssey, Cooper Creek Carpark, Canterbury 9 IronMaori Half Marathon, Napier 10 Christchurch Marathon, Christchurch 10 Mizuno Auckland Waterfront Half

Marathon, Auckland 10 Shore to Shore, Auckland 20 Old Forest Hanmer Hundred, Hanmert 23 Generation Homes ‘Coastal Loop Track’ - Bay of Islands, Paihia, Bay of Islands 23 Queenstown Alpine Grind, Queenstown 23 Tairua Trail & Tides Run & Walk, Tairua 24 Arrowtown Autumn Festival Fun Run, Arrowtown 30 Generation Homes ‘Huka Falls Trail’ - Taupō 30 Mount Maunganui Half Marathon, Mount Maunganui 30 Routeburn Classic, Lake Fergus/ The Divide to Routeburn Shelter, Southland/Otago 30 Middle-earth Halfling Marathon, Matamata

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Shipping Available now from:

Walking New Zealand Shop

P O Box 1922, Palmerston North Phone 0800-925-546 or email walkingnz@xtra.co.nz. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

45

Coming Events

Fingertip Pulse Oximeter

A fingertip Pulse/Oximeter can be used to measure oxygen saturation and heart pulse rate through the finger. Monitor respiratory conditions, pre and post exercise, and pre and post operative conditions.

Only

$39.95 plus $7.00 P&P

Available now from:

Walking New Zealand Shop P O Box 1922, Palmerston North Phone 0800-925-546 Order online:

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

MAY 2022

1 Omokoroa Coastal Challenge, Omokoroa near Tauranga 7 58th Rotorua Marathon, Rotorua 7 Hanmer Four Square Half Marathon, Hanmer Springs 7 Peretū Half Marathon, Rangitoto Island, Auckland 7 Saint Clair Vineyard Half Marathon, St Clair Vineyard, Blenheim 7 Southern Lakes Half Marathon, Cardron Valley, near Wanaka 14 New Zealand Sotheby’s International Realty Hawke’s Bay Marathon, West Quay, Ahuriri, Hawkes Bay 21 Whitianga Marathon, Whitianga 22 Manawatu Striders Marathon, Palmerston North 22 Porirua Grand Traverse, Porirua 28 The Tora. Te Awaiti, Martinborough

JUNE 2022

5 Ōrewa Half Marathon, Orewa 5 Aurora Handicap Marathon, Uppert Hutt 11 Rustic Run and Walk, Bannockburn, near Cromwell 11 The Possum Night Run, Wairakei Resort, Taupo 19 Gazley Volkswagen Wellington Marathon, Wellington 24 Te Wero o Te Houtaewa, Ninety Mile Beach 26 Onehunga Half Marathon, Onehunga

JULY 2022 4 4 4 4 4 4

Upper body workout while walking Burn 40% more calories Less impact on joints Release tension in neck and shoulders Improve posture and breathing Fun to do, easy to learn, for all ages

10 Forest Run Fest: Autumn Edition, Bottle Lake Forest Christchurch

Please note that because of Covid-19 some events advertised in New Zealand may be rescheduled, postponed or cancelled.

16 WUU-2K Marathon & Ultramarathon, Wellinghton 17 Tāmaki River Half Marathon, Farm Cove, Auckland 17 Cape Egmont Half Marathon, Okato, Taranagi

AUGUST 2022

6 Meridian Hydro Half Marathon, Te Anau 6 Taupō Marathon, Taupo 7 South Island Half Marathon, Lake Hood, Ashburton 27 Mount Maunganui Half Marathon Mount Maunganui

SEPTEMBER 2022

4 North Shore Marathon, Milford, Auckland 10 Kaikoura Whale Run, Kaikoura 11 Emerson’s Dunedin Marathon, Dunedin 11 Whangarei Run/Walk Festival, Whangarei 17 58th Rotorua Marathon, Rotorua 17 Race Tekapo, Lake Tekapo 18 Cambridge Half Marathon, Cambridge 18 Shoe Science Tauranga Marathon, Tauranga

OCTOBER 2022

1 Whangamata Run/Walk Festival, Whangamata

Classes in Greater Auckland, Hamilton, Tauranga, Whakatane, Hawkes Bay, New Plymouth, Wellington, Kapiti and Christchurch

Saturday 10 September 2022 46 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

- 2022

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Coming Events

1 Trek the Forest, Please note that because Rotorua of Covid-19 some events 1 Aoraki Mt Cook advertised in New Zealand Marathon, Half may be rescheduled, postMarathon, 10K poned or cancelled. and 5K, Mt Cook Village 2 4 Paws Marathon, Bottle lake Forerst, Christchurch 8 Sun to Surf Run & Walk, Ohope 9 3 Lakes Trail Run, Taharoa Domain, Kai Iwi Lakes, Northland 16 Ronhill Huntly Half Marathon, Huntly 16 Crater Rim Ultra 2022, Christchurch 22 Kaikoura Mountains to the Sea, Kaikoura22 Twizel Hard Labour Weekend, Ohau Station, Canterbury 30 Auckland Marathon, Auckland

NOVEMBER 2022

5-6 Rotorua Walking Festival, Rotorua 10-20 Waiheke Walking Festival, Waiheke Island

5-6 NOVEMBER 2022

APRIL 2023

16 Christchurch Marathon, Christchurch

AUSTRALIA APRIL 2022

10 Canberra Marathon, Canberra ACT 30 Run the Rock, Hanging Rock,

MAY 2022

1 The O’Keefe Challenge, Marathon, Half Marath, 10km & 5km, Bendigo, Vic

JUNE 2022

5 Wollongong Running Festival, Woolongong, NSW 5 Makay Marina Run Half Marathon, Mackay, Qld 19 Cooks River Fun Run 10km & 5km, Strathfield, NSW

JULY 2022

10-24 Weipa Running Festival, Weipa, Qld

AUGUST 2022

14 Sun-Herald City 2 Sirf 14km, Sydney, NSW

SEPTEMBER 2022

11 Sandy Point Half Marathon, Brighton, Vic Harvert Run,Yarra Valley, Vic

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

47

OVERSEAS BIKE TOURS

Experience France by E-bike!

8-27 June 2022 (19 nights) Normandy, Loire, Poitou 14 wonderful cycle days Visit Bayeux and Saumur NZ$6580 pp twin share wandertours.co.nz

GREAT COUNTRY BREAKS

NORTHLAND

Please tell our advertisers you saw it advertised inWalking New Zealand magazine.

ROTORUA

ROTORUA

ROTORUA

HAWKES BAY

HAWKES BAY

HAWKES BAY

SPECIAL OFFER for all Walking NZ readers

FREE E-BIKE HIRE Cycling the Hawke’s Bay Trails is the closest you can get to a European cycling holiday without travelling overseas.

You will see valleys of vines, winding rivers, estuary wetlands and the majestic coastline beside the turquoise-blue Pacific Ocean.

Experience our tracks over 2, 3 or 4 days cycling flat, easy trails knowing you are never more than 30 minutes away from your next stop at a winery restaurant, cellar door or fresh fruit stall!

for group bookings* on all multiday cycling tours Save up to $160pp! *Group - min of 4ppl, on tours prior to 24 December 2021.

Cycle Hawke’s Bay - the best trails, food & wine!

Talk to us today p: 06 835 9030 | Ahuriri, Napier | info@takarotrails.co.nz

You can now view and enjoy the latest issue of Walking New Zealand magazine online for only $2.50 at http://www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

48 New Zealand, issue 290 48 Walking Walking New Zealand, issue no 290 -no 2022

- 2022

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

GISBORNE

HIKES THROUGHOUT NZ

GREAT COUNTRY BREAKS NELSON * Heaphy Track * Abel Tasman * Cobb Valley * Old Ghost Road

‘Carry less, enjoy more’ WAIRARAPA

Come explore with us! www.kahurangiwalks.co.nz

Phone 03 391 4120 CANTERBURY

Unique walking experience over private farmland and Wairarapa Coastline, with two or three day options. Awesone scenery, rustic accommodation and delicious meals. For further information visit www.oruiwalk.co.nz

Please tell our advertisers you saw it advertised in Walking New Zealand magazine.

MARLBOROUGH

Whareama Coastal Walk Fully catered 2 Day Walking Adventure over private farmland with isolated Wairarapa coastline views.

Phone (06) 372 3722

www.whareamawalk.co.nz

MARLBOROUGH

NEW ZEALAND WALKS

Country Breaks

the place to promote for more customers contact Frank Goldingham walkingnz@xtra.co.nz 0800-925-546 (walking)

You can now view back issues of Walking New Zealand magazine,

two issues back from the latest, FREE at : http://issuu.com/walkingnewzealand.

Your favourite walk could win you a free subscription

We are looking for readers’ favourite New Zealand walks. Many of us go out regularly walking on a route which we class as our favourite, for a number of reasons. Perhaps because for it’s scenery, it’s safe, it’s challenging, it’s flat, it’s hilly, it’s varied, or for whatever reason.

We would like you to tell us in your own words what is you favourite walk and why. Email us a story from say 250 up to 1200 words including a photo or photos.

We will now give you a FREE subscription (six months or more, depending on the article), or extension to Walking New Zealand magazine for walks published. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

You can also post an article to Walking New Zealand, Freepost 78863, P O Box 1922, Palmerston North, or fax 06-358-6864.

If sending a photo by email please make sure photos are in high resolution.

Our email address is: walkingnz@xtra.co.nz.

Please put “My Favourite Walk” in the subject line and include your name and postal address.

Walking New Zealand, no 290 2022 49 49 Walking New Zealand, issue issue no 2902022

SOUTHLAND

GREAT COUNTRY BREAKS

PORTABLE LOCATOR BEACONS

STAY SAFE IN THE OUTDOORS T Take a locator beacon with you when you are hunting, y h hiking or working anywhere re remote and make sure you w will be rescued quickly

MACKENZIE/South Canterbury

SPECIAL ACR ResQLink PLB - 400

Only $485

A unique four days walk or mountain bike ride in idyllic South Canterbury

Including P&P Comes with heavy duty pouch

Available for sale or hire

Phone 03-685-4848 Email: info@walkfourpeaks.co.nz

* Freedom $245 * Prime $545 * Guided $1695

$15 - 1 day $30 - 3 days $40 - 7 days

$30 for every week after your first week of hire

Locator Beacons New Zealand 03 226 6341 or 027 412 2925

www.locatorbeacons.co.nz

WE-9025668AA

STEWART ISLAND

BOOKS

Kiwi on the Camino

NEW ZEALAND HIKES

by Vivianne Flintoff 900kms along an ancient pilgrimage trail in Northern Spain

Please tell our advertisers you saw it in Walking New Zealand magazine.

Available from independent book sellers or directly from author E-mail : vivianneflintoffbooks@gmail.com Web: http://www.vivianneflintoffbooks.com/

NORTH CANTERBURY

NORTH CANTERBURY OXIMETERS

Fingertip Pulse Oximeter

A fingertip Pulse/Oximeter can be used to measure oxygen saturation and heart pulse rate through the finger. Monitor respiratory conditions, pre and post exercise, and pre and post operative conditions.

Only

$39.95

Self guided private walking track * Choose between 3 or 2 day options. * Lodge style accommodation with fully serviced kitchens, BBQ, hot showers, comfortable bunk-beds and pillows. * Dogs welcome, kennels available at lodgings. * Pack transport each day makes for a stress free adventure.

Check our availability calendar online www.islandhillsstation.com Walking New Zealand, issue no 290 -no 2022 50 Walking 50 New Zealand, issue 290

- 2022

plus $7.00 P&P

Available now from:

Walking New Zealand Shop P O Box 1922, Palmerston North Phone 0800-925-546 Order online:

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

PAK - A - ROO

Walking Hiking Jacket Wicking Lining

Only

$129.00 plus $7.00 P&P

To order:

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz Freephone 0800 925-546- walking THE

WALKING NEW ZEALAND MAIL ORDER

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz

SHOP

WALKING NEW ZEALAND Ltd, P O Box 1922, Palmerston North, 4440 Phone 06-358-6863: fax 06-358-6864 or freephone 0800-925-546

Colours: Red, Navy, Dark Olive, Brown Sizes XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL Weight approximately 800gms

Walking New Zealand, issue no 290- 2022

51

29

Walking Adventures from the Kaimais to the Coromandel

APRIL 9-24 COVID-19: We are good to go in RED. Visit our website to view our safety information.

For more information visit echowalkfest.org.nz 52 Walking New Zealand, issue no 290

- 2022

www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz